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References: [ +from:tr6taylor@webtv.net: 2634 ]

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141. Re: anti run on valve (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 23:23:23 -0700; Jay--I thik all of the factory installed anti-run on valves are as you described. The aftermarket ones from England do the job another way. Probably not as neatly. Dick Jay wrote: The anti-run valves; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00154.html (7,804 bytes)
142. Re: Igntion Switch removal... (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 12:08:08 -0700; MIke--I still have the under-the-steering column key switch, and would replace it with another one, should this one fail beyond repair. While it can be a pain when trying to move the car and turn the; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00169.html (7,103 bytes)
143. Re: Ride Height (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 23:29:27 -0700; Ronald--Even though there is a LOT of weight missing from completing your TR (bumpers, interior, glass, etc.) plus low profile tires. I don't think all of these would bring this car down to an inch l; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00189.html (8,054 bytes)
144. Re: Ride Height. 2 (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 09:50:32 -0700; Ronald--There's another way to determne if you have the "wrong" springs in your car, and you don't have to take any springs back out, unneccessarily. I would count the number of full coils, and measu; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00200.html (6,771 bytes)
145. Re: Question on Mallory.... (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 10:43:42 -0700; Shannon--It is sort of true that you can orient the plug wires so that it will fire #1 plug at the correct time. But you will be further ahead time-wise to orient the rotor to where the points have j; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00233.html (7,825 bytes)
146. Re: Settig the distributor..float (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 11:22:16 -0700; Stan--What might help cutting thru all of this proceedure is to surmize what the good people at Triumph and Bentley wanted us to carry out. That being, to have a slight amount of runnng clearance bew; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00246.html (8,381 bytes)
147. Re: Tire Pressures (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 23:23:28 -0700; Greg--Attached is a reply from Dennis Simanaitis, a tech writer for Road & Track. Meanwhile, I am in the camp of those owners who run equal pressures. Usually around 28 lb. at each corner. Dick Now,; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00264.html (8,034 bytes)
148. Re: Bonnet/hood alignment vs squeak (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 23:13:52 -0700; Harry--If the gaps along the hood lines are equal, I wouldn't loosen any of the hood bolts. If the squeak is coming from the conical rubbers, you can center them in this manner: Rub chalk around the; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00287.html (7,722 bytes)
149. Re: Rearend (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2005 23:09:57 -0700; Tom--I have a 74 1/2 diff on the workbench at the moment. It does not have the collapsible spacer, and I'm reasonably sure it has never been apart before now. If you are going to rebuild this unit, i; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00295.html (7,176 bytes)
150. Re: Front Hubs (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2005 23:35:15 -0700; John--The "measurement" for front bearing end float is confusing to read. How does one measure for the ".004 or .006 clearance"? Of course one can do this but it's not in the usual way, with a feeler; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00296.html (8,050 bytes)
151. Re: Disk Brake Guru (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2005 19:13:24 -0700; John--Can't claim guru status, but the anti-squeal plates you describe is what comes with many of the TR front brake setups. For many of us this is all that's necessary to keep out brake pads from sq; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00307.html (7,288 bytes)
152. Re; Squeaky tach (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 18:13:19 -0700; Phil--You may get away with just greasing the inner cable to the tach. Take the knurled nut loose at the back of the unit, drop this cable low enough to where you can pull it out from under the dash.; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00328.html (7,653 bytes)
153. Re: Misfire, need some hints. (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 12:13:18 -0700; Vance--Going to the heavier damper oil MAY be a clue as to whether the misfire is air/fuel ratio related, and it's easy enough to do. Another way would be to go to a lighter oil, such as ATF, to see; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00369.html (8,904 bytes)
154. Re: WooHoo! Mallory.... (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 23:29:04 -0700; Shannon--The vacuum retard unit should retard the ignition timing between 14 and 16 deg. when it's working as designed. If you set the timing to 10 deg. BTDC with the vacuum line DISconnected, and th; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00388.html (7,007 bytes)
155. Re: WooHoo! Mallory... (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 11:44:55 -0700; Shannon--24 deg. of centrifugal advance is about the right amount. By setting the idle timing, (where no advance should be taking place) to 10 deg., you'll then have 34 deg. when the timing is all-in; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00405.html (8,848 bytes)
156. Re: Bonnet Release (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 22:52:45 -0700; John--I don't know the spring rate for replacement springs that are sold, but I would think they should be stout enough to lift the hood. At least far enough to get some fingers into the gap. When yo; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00409.html (7,738 bytes)
157. Re: oil pressure or lack of it (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 10:05:58 -0700; Mitch--Fill up the fuel tank to at least half full. Pinch off the fuel line to the carbs. Drain the sump and leave the plug out. If the fuel is getting thru a ruptured fuel pump, gas will then come o; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00414.html (6,832 bytes)
158. Re: Clutch MC Rebuild (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 14:40:05 -0700; Aaron-- Difficulty in shifting the gearbox, could be either a clutch disengagement problem, or the box itself. Doing the easy things first, see if there are any leaks at the MC (check inside at the p; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00418.html (8,556 bytes)
159. Re: Engine runs but overheats (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 23:22:13 -0700; John--Try it again, but this time leave off the radiator cap to burp out any residual air that may still be trapped. Also open up the heater valve, and run the engine long enough for the thermostat t; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00456.html (7,879 bytes)
160. Re: Fan extension bolt (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 23:30:32 -0700; Jim--This bolt does have the right handed thread. Chances are there is some Loctite involved. Sometimes the engine will "turn over" when losening this bolt, so you may need to jar it loose with an im; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00457.html (6,930 bytes)

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