Mail Archive Search: <+from:barneymg@ntsource.com>

Results:

References: [ +from:barneymg@ntsource.com: 1115 ]

Total 1115 documents matching your query.

81. Re: engine breathing modification (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 16:06:02 -0500; Same as my MGA I wouldn't recommend that (with heavy emphasis). No, unless the piston rings are in such bad shape as to be allowing lots of combustion bypass to blow oil out of the crankcase into the; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00316.html (11,154 bytes)
82. RE: oil filters (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 17:53:34 -0500; Thank you. I couldn't have put it better myself. (Maybe just sooner). Barney /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00320.html (7,872 bytes)
83. Re: JB Weld (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 22:17:04 -0500; You need to insert a pin inside of the tubing, a piece of metal round stock about 2" long should do it, and completely fill the joint with JB Weld. Will likely be stronger than the original tubing. B; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00327.html (7,526 bytes)
84. Re: JB Weld (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:21:40 -0500; If you want to go for original strength, then it needs to be welded, and JB Weld won't do it. Look for a small industrial machine shop that does job-shop work and small lots for one of a kind product; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00359.html (9,563 bytes)
85. Re: my 68 B....Clutch pedal barely returns??? (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 15:54:17 -0500; Most likely the flex hose at the slave cylinder is deteriorated and has collapsed internally causing a nasty restriction. This allows the high pressure fluid to flow into the cylinder when you depres; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00370.html (8,277 bytes)
86. Re: my 68 B....Clutch pedal barely returns??? (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 22:40:39 -0500; Has to be the right part to be the right length and have the right fittings on both ends. Don't bother looking for a substitute. Accept only the part that is listed for the MGB. But, your local auto; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00387.html (8,693 bytes)
87. Re: end of the SU vs Weber controversy (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 22:58:29 -0500; I haven't seen one like that for years, and I was hoping I would never see another one. That manifold obviously has the horizontal runner positioned well below the level of the ports in the head. Dur; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00388.html (8,336 bytes)
88. Re: fuse size MGA (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 17:26:18 -0500; DO NOT USE A STANDARD 35 AMP FUSE. It's not an odd size, but it is an odd type of fuse. It is actually a 17/35 amp slow blow fuse that will carry 17 amps indefinitly but will blow immediately at 35 a; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00529.html (8,173 bytes)
89. Re: Is brake fluid flammable (or: why did my car burn?) (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 06:35:40 -0500; This I couldn't resist, partly because I didn't know the answer. But I do know know to use a match, so now I do know the answer. Brake fluid does burn. DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5 all burn, and all about th; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00608.html (15,797 bytes)
90. Re: Thermostat Studs (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 19:53:38 -0500; The Moss part should be correct. I have used these studs from Moss recently, and all is well. They should be fine threaded on both ends. Sounds like you have a typical DPO bodge there. The studs avai; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00644.html (8,258 bytes)
91. Re: MGA Clutch (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 16:56:56 -0500; The MGA clutch slave moves 1/2" with full pedal stroke. With the mechanical ratio of the lever arm the release bearing moves about 3/4" Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.co; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00743.html (7,289 bytes)
92. Re: How to check pulley timing mark? (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 01:58:01 -0500; Yup. A feeler stick down the spark plug hole and a wrench on the crankshaft will get you within +/- 2 degrees of TDC. That should be close enough to verify that your harmonic balancer outer ring hasn; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00754.html (7,652 bytes)
93. Re: oil pressure guage (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 09:00:49 -0500; Hey Blake, Send me the machining spec's too if you would. I think I know what you're talking about, but would like to be sure. The MG oil pump is a positive displacement pump, so there's not much you; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00802.html (11,311 bytes)
94. Re: Oil pressure relief valve, was oil pressure gauge (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 16:45:09 -0500; Any oil not going through the engine oilways goes past the pressure relief valve and directly back into the sump. An MG B-series engine in tip top condition with all new bearings will only pass about; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00830.html (13,472 bytes)
95. For sale, dual HIF carbs & electronic ignition (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 17:03:38 -0500; Since some of you MGB folks have expressed interest in the single to dual carb conversion, here's another full conversion set. I am posting this for a non-list member, so please contact him off list,; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00831.html (7,549 bytes)
96. For Sale - '77 MGB parts (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 01:59:48 -0500; Posting this for a non-list acquaintance. Pleast contact him directly off list, cut and paste e-mail address from below. I dunno nuttin about this car or the parts. Barney /// or try http://www.team.; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00876.html (6,762 bytes)
97. Re: 67 B Temperature Unit Removal (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 03:38:24 -0500; It is a standard right handed thread. Use penetrating oil and lots of patience. Turn anti-clockwise to remove. It is a soft brass thin wall male threaded "flare nut", and using a standard open end wr; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00877.html (8,522 bytes)
98. Re: 67 B Temperature Unit Removal (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 22:28:03 -0500; Yup. I always put a little silver anti-seize compound on the threads. Barney Gaylord 1958 MGA with an attitude http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// A; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg00943.html (7,930 bytes)
99. Re: MGA wiper wires? (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 22:52:43 -0500; Yup, sure do. Check here: http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg/mgtech/electric/circ_f1.htm Also click on "NOTES". Six ways to connect three wires. Five ways will malfunction, and four ways will blow a f; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg01011.html (7,979 bytes)
100. Re: MGA WW hubs/half-shafts (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>; Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 14:32:28 -0500; You will not find it on my web site, because it has been more than 30 years since I owned a WW MGA. In those days they were just nice young used cars, and no one ever thought about changing the splin; /html/mgs/2002-05/msg01043.html (7,038 bytes)

Current List: 81 - 100
Page: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] [20]