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Yes, air can be drawn in from the bleeder screw.
John,
'62 BT7
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of simon.lachlan---
via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2025 1:38 AM
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes.
I am in the process of putting a rebuilt and hopefully cured wheel cylinder
back onto my BT7. God, that's an awful job. Anyhow, I shall have to bleed
the system when I've finally got those dear little clips to line up.
Recalling past battles in that area, I dug up a note which I'd made for
myself some time back. I seem to recall that this paragraph is not in all of
my BMC manuals so the advice within may not be available to all concerned.
My car is a '62 so it's fair to assume that the relevant threads are a bit
worn...........I use this method along with a Gunson's Eezibleed and it
seems to work. I recall that the Eezibleed is much more effective and the
process much more manageable if one has the donor tyre inflated to
considerably less psi than advised in the destructions.
Apologies to all who recall my posting this previously!
"If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
considerable time, it is possible that air is being drawn in past the
bleeder screw threads. In such cases tighten the bleeder screw at the end of
each downward stoke* of the pedal and allow the pedal to return fully before
re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last pedal
application." (+/- 2014)
*ie to prevent air being drawn in during the upward passage of the pedal.
(SDL 14/08/2019)
Have fun. It's a beastly job but not as bad a s frigging around with the
clips!!
Simon
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class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Yes, air can =
be drawn in from the bleeder screw.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p> </=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>John,<o:p></o=
:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>‘62 =
BT7<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p> </=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p> </=
o:p></span></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 =
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>simon.lachlan--- via Healeys<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, May 22, 2025 =
1:38 AM<br><b>To:</b> Healeys =
<healeys@autox.team.net><br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Bleeding =
brakes.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div =
style=3D'margin-left:6.0pt;margin-top:12.0pt;margin-bottom:12.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>I am in the process of =
putting a rebuilt and hopefully cured wheel cylinder back onto my BT7. =
God, that's an awful job. Anyhow, I shall have to bleed the system when =
I've finally got those dear little clips to line =
up. <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div =
style=3D'margin-left:6.0pt;margin-top:12.0pt;margin-bottom:12.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Recalling past battles in =
that area, I dug up a note which I'd made for myself some time back. I =
seem to recall that this paragraph is not in all of my BMC manuals so =
the advice within may not be available to all concerned. My car is a '62 =
so it's fair to assume that the relevant threads are a bit =
worn...........I use this method along with a Gunson's Eezibleed and it =
seems to work. <b><i>I recall that the Eezibleed is much more effective =
and the process much more manageable if one has the donor tyre inflated =
to considerably less psi than advised in the =
destructions.</i></b><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div =
style=3D'margin-left:6.0pt;margin-top:12.0pt;margin-bottom:12.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Apologies to all who =
recall my posting this previously!<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div =
style=3D'margin-left:5.95pt;margin-top:6.0pt;margin-right:13.55pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>“If the bleeding of =
any cylinder continues without success for a considerable time, it is =
possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In =
such cases tighten the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke* =
of the pedal and allow the pedal to return fully before re-opening it. =
Close the bleeder screw finally during the last pedal =
application.” (+/- 2014)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div =
style=3D'margin-left:5.95pt;margin-top:6.0pt;margin-right:13.55pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>*ie to prevent air being =
drawn in during the upward passage of the pedal. (SDL =
14/08/2019)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div =
style=3D'margin-left:5.95pt;margin-top:6.0pt;margin-right:13.55pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div =
style=3D'margin-left:5.95pt;margin-top:6.0pt;margin-right:13.55pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Have fun. It's a beastly =
job but not as bad a s frigging around with the =
clips!!<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div =
style=3D'margin-left:5.95pt;margin-top:6.0pt;margin-right:13.55pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div></div></body></ht=
ml>
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