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From: "Tomislav Marincic" <tomislav.marincic@earthlink.net>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 12:47:31 -0400
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Subject: [6pack] Alignment Sanity Check
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Hello,



I just got around to putting my TR6 on an alignment rack. It was a frame-off
restoration. I currently have 2 shims under each front wishbone attachment
and 3 shims behind each Goodparts adjustable trailing arm bracket. All
measurements are in degrees.



My camber is:     LF: -0.9

                              RF: -1.0

                              LR: -1.1

                              RR: -1.2



My rear toe is:    LR: 0.24

                              RR: -0.17



My ride heights in inches, measured at the center of the wheel arch, are:
LF: 26.5


RF: 26.5


LR: 27.5


RR: 28.0



Visually, the car is clearly leaning toward the drivers side in back even
when my fat body isnt behind the wheel. The springs are new Goodparts front
and rear, with spacers and packing pieces in front and spacers but no upper
packing in the rear.



My plan is to remove one shim from each front wishbone packing piece in the
front.



In the rear, I plan to rotate the left inner trailing arm adjustor
counter-clockwise three full turns. This should raise the fulcrum and add >
degrees of positive camber.



On the right rear, I want to lower the car as much as possible, so I plan to
turn both adjustors counter-clockwise (raising the pivots) an equal amount
until one adjustor is at its limit of travel. Then I will turn the outer
adjustor clockwise three full turns to lower the outer pivot and add >
degrees of positive camber.



After I tighten the adjustors, I will loosen the outer trailing arm bracket
mounts and remove one shim from the right and add one shim to the left.
(Positive rear toe is toe-in, Im told.)



My brain hurts from thinking about it! Do I have the adjustments right?



Thanks for your help, as always.



Tom

CC55483L

www.triumphowners.com/735

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  3 12:13:49 2013
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 13:45:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: Tomislav Marincic <tomislav.marincic@earthlink.net>
References: <000e01ce308a$eefcd450$ccf67cf0$@earthlink.net>
Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Alignment Sanity Check
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Hi,

Your plan regarding the camber settings is sound. My advice is to make 
small changes and measure and make sure to "settle" the car between 
reading to make sure you don't over-shoot the target numbers.

The rear toe, on the other hand needs to be addressed. With those numbers, 
your "thrust angle" has to be wrong. Even though the total toe-in is 
small, the +.24 on the driver side seems excessive. So, you might want to 
address that. Keep in mind that the TR6 IRS toe in increases as the 
suspension compresses, so don't go crazy here. But a quarter-inch toe out 
on one side is going to translate to EVIL handling.

The other part of your plan concerns me. If you try to get the car flat 
and level with no driver, the handling is going to suck. That's because 
you're going to throw out cross weights for "curb appeal". The TR6 with 
LHD has a considerable weight bias to the left side of the car, so you 
want to accomodate that in your eventual ride-height and camber / toe 
settings.

But if you don't "drive" the car, ignore the weight bias thing even though 
you can make the car a dog to drive.

I'm just sayin.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  3 18:05:03 2013
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	Wed, 03 Apr 2013 19:43:16 -0400
From: "Tomislav Marincic" <tomislav.marincic@earthlink.net>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 19:43:16 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac4wxPvUh26PgmDGRiiuU/6pT6Ja/w==
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Cc: goodparts@verizon.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Alignment Sanity Check
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Thanks to all who replied.



I spent a busy day under my car



I removed all 8 shims from the lower wishbones in front, per Kevin Andrews
suggestion. This should give me = degree less negative camber in front,
which would put me in spec. (By the way, is the wishbone bracket to frame
attachment torque really just 20-25 ft-lbs? It seemed awfully low, compared
to the rear brackets.)



I took one shim out of the right outboard trailing arm bracket and put it in
front of the left outboard bracket. That should reduce or eliminate my right
toe-out and reduce my left toe-in.



I turned all the trailing arm bracket adjusters counterclockwise, working my
way from left to right, by 1,4,10,and 7 turns. In theory, this should add
3/4 of a degree of camber to the rear, and lower the right side of the car.



Unfortunately, I took the car out for a drive, and after the suspension
settled, the right rear was = HIGHER than before. Ill have to review the
instructions that come with the Goodparts brackets, because I seem to have
screwed it up.



Anyway, Im back to the alignment rack tomorrow, so well see what happened.



Cheers, Tom



All political thinking for years past has been vitiated in the same way.
People can foresee the future only when it coincides with their own wishes,
and the most grossly obvious facts can be ignored when they are unwelcome.
 <http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/g/georgeorwe164069.html> George
Orwell

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 00:37:21 2013
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From: "Jim Hinckley" <paradigm_inc@comcast.net>
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Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 23:05:53 -0800
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Subject: [6pack] Wilton Wool Carpet Set
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I'm getting ready to replace my carpet and would like recommendations.

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 07:14:52 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: "Bill Wellbaum" <wcwellbaum@cox.net>
To: "Jim Hinckley" <paradigm_inc@comcast.net>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <007301ce036f$3d0739e0$b715ada0$@net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 05:46:50 -0700
Subject: Re: [6pack] Wilton Wool Carpet Set
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Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I used the wool carpet set from TRF--great fit, great quality. NFI.

Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas
baclv.org
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Hinckley" <paradigm_inc@comcast.net>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 12:05 AM
Subject: [6pack] Wilton Wool Carpet Set


> I'm getting ready to replace my carpet and would like recommendations.
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum@cox.net

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 12:52:22 2013
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From: "Corbitt, Michael" <Michael_Corbitt@ous.edu>
To: "paradigm_inc@comcast.net" <paradigm_inc@comcast.net>,
	"6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: RE: Wilton Wool Carpet Set
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Jim,

I too have replaced my carpet with the Wilton wool set from TRF and was very
pleased with the outcome.

Mike
Corvallis, OR

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  9 14:39:50 2013
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2013 16:38:37 -0400
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, 6pack@autox.team.net
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Subject: [6pack] FW: Windshield from Moss - Follow up
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I wrote:

  > I bought a windshield from Moss Motors back in January 2013.  It's for
my TR6 

>but it says it also fits TR4, Spits, GT6s, etc.  Well, it doesn't fit a
TR6.  The glass was 

>cut unevenly and the passenger side is too tall. Moss is sending a
replacement & 

>it is hoped that it will fit.  Just a word of caution.

 

The new windshield arrived and it fits just fine.  No idea how the 

other one got cut wrong. 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

 

PS. Someone asked if it's a Triplex - no, it's not. 

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 02:46:14 2013
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 02:45:54 -0600
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To: Triumph <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] 22 and counting
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April 11th, 1991 - Team.Net becomes an official domain.  For a few years 
before
that, though, the basic foundation was getting built up.  It has been a 
long ride
from those days until now.  We are still here.

And we can continue on for who knows how many more years?

If you'd like to help Team.Net continue, consider putting a few dollars
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http://www.team.net/donations.html

mjb.

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 13:56:09 2013
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:43:02 -0400
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac458qwwJ82cngzdRb+ab2kh0X+9ZwAHjMWA
Subject: [6pack] Thanks all (was FW: TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings)
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Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, OK, I've gotten numerous responses and they are all saying the same
thing - Art Lipp's Delrin accelerator shaft bushings.  I've written a check
and it will be in the mail tomorrow.  Thanks list (and thanks to Mark
Bradakis for making all this possible). 

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (soon to have Delrin
bushings).  

 

From: Dennis Culligan [mailto:dctr6@optonline.net] 
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 12:03 PM
To: '6pack@autox.team.net'; 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
Subject: TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings

 

After having my accelerator stick (why does it always stick ON and not
OFF?), it appears I may need to replace the accelerator shaft bushings on my
TR6 (all other parts of the carb linkages are new and/or not sticking or
hanging up) .  I have looked at both the MOSS catalog (part # 676-000 along
with the Supplemental Info and Instructions) and the TRF website (parts #
138490 (nylon) and 138490/U (urethane)).  I also have a copy of the article
"Fabricating East-to-Install Accelerator Shaft Bearings" from the Buckeye
Triumphs site.  I have a pretty good idea how difficult these
bearings/bushings will be to install especially since the engine is in the
car and it's not coming out.  My questions are: Can I presume that at almost
3x the price of the nylon bushing, the TRF urethane bushing will last 3x as
long?  Will the Urethane bushing be even more difficult to install? If I
know a machinist that can fabricate the parts, is brass the best way to go?
Any other bright ideas?  I do NOT want to have to do this again.  Thanks for
your insight and any help you can provide.

Dennis Culligan. Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (with a new windshield ("I
can see clearly now.")) 

________________________________________

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 15:09:42 2013
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 13:57:52 -0700
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Subject: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL
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Hi Listers,

 

So being the ontopofmaintenance guy that I am, I figured I'd change my diff
oil. Behold..no drain plug! I dimly remember this from when I put the
restored car back on the road 9 years and 16,000 miles ago. I know the
level's up to the fill plug because some oil weeps out when I pull out said
plug and the oil looks pretty good so I guess I don't have a problem, but
how does one drain the thing??

 

Colin Thom '75

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 16:28:35 2013
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References: <003101ce3bae$3a5106a0$aef313e0$@ca>
From: Joe Honor <j.honor@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 17:20:00 -0500
To: Colin Thom <colinthom@shaw.ca>
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Cc: "<6pack@autox.team.net>" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL
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Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Need to have one tapped into bottom of case no TR6 has them but TR4 do for
reference Regards Joe

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 17, 2013, at 3:57 PM, "Colin Thom" <colinthom@shaw.ca> wrote:

> Hi Listers,
>
>
>
> So being the ontopofmaintenance guy that I am, I figured I'd change my diff
> oil. Behold..no drain plug! I dimly remember this from when I put the
> restored car back on the road 9 years and 16,000 miles ago. I know the
> level's up to the fill plug because some oil weeps out when I pull out said
> plug and the oil looks pretty good so I guess I don't have a problem, but
> how does one drain the thing??
>
>
>
> Colin Thom '75
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor@comcast.net

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 16:42:57 2013
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 22:35:54 +0000 (GMT)
From: wcwellbaum@cox.net
To: colinthom@shaw.ca
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Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL
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Well, either have a drain plug tapped into the bottom of the diff or 
play like you're siphoning gas out of a tank with a length of plastic 
tubing. Nothing like the taste of 90 wgt. gear lube in the morning.

Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas
baclv.org

On Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Colin Thom wrote:

> Hi Listers,
>
>
> So being the ontopofmaintenance guy that I am, I figured I'd change my 
> diff
> oil. Behold..no drain plug! I dimly remember this from when I put the
> restored car back on the road 9 years and 16,000 miles ago. I know the
> level's up to the fill plug because some oil weeps out when I pull out 
> said
> plug and the oil looks pretty good so I guess I don't have a problem, 
> but
> how does one drain the thing??
>
>
> Colin Thom '75
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum@cox.net

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 17:14:04 2013
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From: Lfmaol <lfm614@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 18:03:20 -0500
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL
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Actually the easiest way is to go to Harbor Freight and buy a small transfer
pump that has hoses small enough to fit through the hole.  You can use it to
pump out the old and pump in the new oil.  Same works for topping off the
tranny.  Think that they are less than $10 and they have 20% off coupons all
the time, this what I did.

http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html


Lou
72 Pimento



On Apr 17, 2013, at 5:35 PM, wcwellbaum@cox.net wrote:

> Well, either have a drain plug tapped into the bottom of the diff or play
like you're siphoning gas out of a tank with a length of plastic tubing.
Nothing like the taste of 90 wgt. gear lube in the morning.
>
> Bill Wellbaum
> British Auto Club of Las Vegas
> baclv.org
>
> On Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Colin Thom wrote:
>
>> Hi Listers,
>>
>>
>> So being the ontopofmaintenance guy that I am, I figured I'd change my
diff
>> oil. Behold..no drain plug! I dimly remember this from when I put the
>> restored car back on the road 9 years and 16,000 miles ago. I know the
>> level's up to the fill plug because some oil weeps out when I pull out
said
>> plug and the oil looks pretty good so I guess I don't have a problem, but
>> how does one drain the thing??
>>
>>
>> Colin Thom '75
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum@cox.net
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 18:18:04 2013
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From: "Aldwyn" <aldwyn@sylvancircle.org>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <003101ce3bae$3a5106a0$aef313e0$@ca>
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Subject: Re: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL
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Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Remove the cover, unfortunately.

And while the cover is off, tap it for a (magnetic) drain plug!


 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-
 > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Colin Thom
 > Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 4:58 PM
 > To: 6pack@autox.team.net
 > Subject: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL
 > 
 > Hi Listers,
 > 
 > 
 > 
 > So being the ontopofmaintenance guy that I am, I figured I'd change my
diff
 > oil. Behold..no drain plug! I dimly remember this from when I put the
 > restored car back on the road 9 years and 16,000 miles ago. I know the
 > level's up to the fill plug because some oil weeps out when I pull out
said
 > plug and the oil looks pretty good so I guess I don't have a problem, but
how
 > does one drain the thing??
 > 
 > 
 > 
 > Colin Thom '75
 > 
 > ________________________________________
 > 
 > 6pack@autox.team.net
 > 
 > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 > Unsubscribe:
 > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aldwyn@sylvancircle.org

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 18 13:34:59 2013
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 14:30:56 -0500
From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
References: <003101ce3bae$3a5106a0$aef313e0$@ca>
Subject: Re: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

The pump I've used since I got my TR250 in1968 looks like a small 
bicycle pump.  You pull the plunger back to suck the oil out, which is 
good for your triceps.  I have another pump that screws into the top of 
the oil container that I use for filling.
Larry Young

On 4/17/2013 3:57 PM, Colin Thom wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
>   
>
> So being the ontopofmaintenance guy that I am, I figured I'd change my diff
> oil. Behold..no drain plug! I dimly remember this from when I put the
> restored car back on the road 9 years and 16,000 miles ago. I know the
> level's up to the fill plug because some oil weeps out when I pull out said
> plug and the oil looks pretty good so I guess I don't have a problem, but
> how does one drain the thing??
>
>   
>
> Colin Thom '75
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/cartravel@pobox.com

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 20 12:19:39 2013
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From: "Colin Thom" <colinthom@shaw.ca>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 11:18:11 -0700
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Subject: [6pack] tr6 dash brace
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Hi Gang,

 

I've scored a great original radio but now need an un-butchered dash brace.
The one I thought I had turned out to be butchered. Does anybody out there
have one? Thanks for your help.

 

Colin Thom '75

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 08:18:32 2013
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From: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 14:16:44 +0000
	FILETIME=[0499A260:01CE3F64]
Subject: [6pack] seat cover options
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Hi guys, two questions:

Has anybody had any luck with a cheap seat cover, regarding look and fit, for
a 70-72 seat?

Has anybody used the Victoria British seat recovering kit, and if so how
original looking is the diamond pattern?

thanks,
Sloane :o)
69-Six (with 70-72 seats, DPO)

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 10:39:02 2013
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 09:35:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Yahoo <brucesimms2003@yahoo.ca>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Spring engine start-up Advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Winter came very early and sudden here last fall and my car didn't get
properly put to bed.   Shell V Power (no ethanol) in tank, carbs and lines,
but w/o  fuel stabilizer.    Do I simply start her up and hope for the best,
or run SeaFoam through the tank, spray carb cleaner in, or something?

I'll
spray some fogging oil in each spark plug hole, as I should have in the fall,
 to help with the dry start-up.

Thank you, 

Bruce Simms
73 TR6 with SU HS6,
stock fuel pump

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 07:03:07 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:01:29 -0500
From: Irv Korey <emanteno@comcast.net>
To: TRiumphs <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>, Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Paging Original Owners of TR250's and TR6's
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Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Good morning,

If you are the original owner of your TR250 or TR6, please contact me

*OFF LIST*.

I am working on a project for the 6-Pack magazine.

THANK YOU,

Irv Korey
original owner
CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 25 10:00:46 2013
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From: "Colin Thom" <colinthom@shaw.ca>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 08:58:52 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5BzchFm7o1iq6TQUC8cxfHTJatjw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [6pack] dropping idle
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Hi Gang,

 

All is well when I first bring the engine down to idle from speed, but it
will only hold a nice 800-ish idle for a few seconds before dropping to
5-600 rpm and starting to sound like it's gonna croak. All I've done
recently is change the fuel filter. I did notice when I did that, that the
new filter wasn't holding fuel at first but now it seems OK. When I
installed the new filter, I did operate the fuel pump primer manually and
noticed that I wasn't able to fill the filter with fuel. Knowing that the
carbs were full and the engine warm, I just started the engine and it was
fine.  The engine runs fine.the car goes like hell. It just doesn't idle
right and this is a new thing. All air hose connections are tight, there's
oil in the dashpots, K&N air cleaners are freshly cleaned. Carbs are
synchronized. Throttle response is excellent and mixture is OK. Cam has a
slightly warmed up "street" profile, hence preferred idle speed of 800-900.
One day it was all sweet but a fuel filter change later, it ain't.  Any
ideas? Might I have a failing fuel pump that is assisted somehow by high
engine rpm so I only see a problem at idle? 

 

Thanks for all suggestions,

 

Colin '75

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 25 13:05:20 2013
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From: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 19:03:56 +0000
References: <BLU171-W117CD2B6448227E080604AC8ECB0@phx.gbl>
	FILETIME=[A2B40280:01CE41E7]
Subject: Re: [6pack] seat cover options
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Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi guys,
A bump on this one and another quick question.

I know this is a long shot, but a 250 & 69-6 have a magnet in the fuel lid,
which I have never possessed. Does anybody happen to have one in their junk
box? And I don't want a later lid, thanks.

And, hasn't anybody on list used the VB seat recover kit?

thanks,
Sloane :)
69-Six (with always a slightly gasey smell in the boot)


> From: im_sloane@hotmail.com
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 14:16:44 +0000
> Subject: [6pack] seat cover options
>
> Hi guys, two questions:
>
> Has anybody had any luck with a cheap seat cover, regarding look and fit,
for
> a 70-72 seat?
>
> Has anybody used the Victoria British seat recovering kit, and if so how
> original looking is the diamond pattern?

________________________________________

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 25 13:53:20 2013
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	<BLU171-W1359BE39B03E34BAB7079A88EB60@phx.gbl>
From: David Fidler <djfidler@rogers.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 15:46:06 -0400
To: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] seat cover options
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Sloane,

I don't have a spare 69 cap, but Im told that early Spitfire and GT6 caps are
the same.

Re: smell if gas in boot. Never fill your tank to the top because the neck is
rubber and the clamps come loose and leak. Also, there is a felt mat under the
tank to stop rattles and vibration, this collects spills and fumes over the
years and I recommend replacing it with something like Dynamat that is
non-absorbent. The tank is easy to remove and you can also check for rust and
ok holes while it is out.

Best regards,

David (Fid)

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 25, 2013, at 3:03 PM, im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hi guys,
> A bump on this one and another quick question.
>
> I know this is a long shot, but a 250 & 69-6 have a magnet in the fuel lid,
> which I have never possessed. Does anybody happen to have one in their junk
> box? And I don't want a later lid, thanks.
>
> And, hasn't anybody on list used the VB seat recover kit?
>
> thanks,
> Sloane :)
> 69-Six (with always a slightly gasey smell in the boot)
>
>
>> From: im_sloane@hotmail.com
>> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
>> Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 14:16:44 +0000
>> Subject: [6pack] seat cover options
>>
>> Hi guys, two questions:
>>
>> Has anybody had any luck with a cheap seat cover, regarding look and fit,
> for
>> a 70-72 seat?
>>
>> Has anybody used the Victoria British seat recovering kit, and if so how
>> original looking is the diamond pattern?
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler@rogers.com

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 26 00:47:24 2013
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	<AE52DDD5-4D3B-4928-9E9F-41C19E3E84DC@rogers.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 02:41:12 -0400
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: David Fidler <djfidler@rogers.com>
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] seat cover options
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

The V.B. seat pattern looks original to me.

Al


On Thu, Apr 25, 2013 at 3:46 PM, David Fidler <djfidler@rogers.com> wrote:

> Sloane,
>
> I don't have a spare 69 cap, but Im told that early Spitfire and GT6 caps
> are
> the same.
>
> Re: smell if gas in boot. Never fill your tank to the top because the neck
> is
> rubber and the clamps come loose and leak. Also, there is a felt mat under
> the
> tank to stop rattles and vibration, this collects spills and fumes over the
> years and I recommend replacing it with something like Dynamat that is
> non-absorbent. The tank is easy to remove and you can also check for rust
> and
> ok holes while it is out.
>
> Best regards,
>
> David (Fid)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 25, 2013, at 3:03 PM, im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi guys,
> > A bump on this one and another quick question.
> >
> > I know this is a long shot, but a 250 & 69-6 have a magnet in the fuel
> lid,
> > which I have never possessed. Does anybody happen to have one in their
> junk
> > box? And I don't want a later lid, thanks.
> >
> > And, hasn't anybody on list used the VB seat recover kit?
> >
> > thanks,
> > Sloane :)
> > 69-Six (with always a slightly gasey smell in the boot)
> >
> >
> >> From: im_sloane@hotmail.com
> >> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> >> Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 14:16:44 +0000
> >> Subject: [6pack] seat cover options
> >>
> >> Hi guys, two questions:
> >>
> >> Has anybody had any luck with a cheap seat cover, regarding look and
> fit,
> > for
> >> a 70-72 seat?
> >>
> >> Has anybody used the Victoria British seat recovering kit, and if so how
> >> original looking is the diamond pattern?
> >
> > ________________________________________
> >
> > 6pack@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler@rogers.com
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy@gmail.com

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 21:51:49 2013
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From: dave@ranteer.com
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 20:47:57 -0700
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Subject: [6pack] Oil filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I feel foolish for even asking this.  I have a wix filter on my car, and I'm
getting ready to change the oil.  Apparently I have the correct filter number
for the hondas, my daughters Z, and some cars I no longer even own!  But I
dont have the one for the tr6 (it has a spin on adapter).  I could remove the
old one, and then get the number and go to the flaps.  But it would be really
nice if someone could help me out here.

Thanks!

________________________________________

6pack@autox.team.net

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 05:12:59 2013
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From: kirsis stephen <sakirsis@consolidated.net>
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Dave, Do-not have the Wix # but I highly recommend the K and N because of the 
ease of getting it on or off with the 1" wrench nut. #HP-2009. Cross references to 
FRAM PH3600/DG3600. Purolator L20195/ L35098.
Steve Kirsis '70 Damson

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References: <201304291102.062181@ms01.consolidated.net>
From: David Fidler <djfidler@rogers.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 07:45:10 -0400
To: kirsis stephen <sakirsis@consolidated.net>
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] (no subject)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Just make sure it has the bypass valve in it. When you change to a spin on,
you lose this feature, so you need a replacement filter with it built in.

There are several threads on the 6-pack forums about this, including numbers
etc.

Best regards,

David.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 29, 2013, at 7:02 AM, kirsis stephen <sakirsis@consolidated.net>
wrote:

> Dave, Do-not have the Wix # but I highly recommend the K and N because of
the
> ease of getting it on or off with the 1" wrench nut. #HP-2009. Cross
references to
> FRAM PH3600/DG3600. Purolator L20195/ L35098.
> Steve Kirsis '70 Damson
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler@rogers.com

________________________________________

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 06:28:59 2013
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From: "John Cohen" <jmcoh@comcast.net>
To: <dave@ranteer.com>
References: <20130428204757.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.be6e24ca39.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net>
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Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Oil filter
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Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave,
The WIX is 51516 it is the exact same filter as the NAPA Gold #1516, the K &
N is HP2009

John Cohen

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dave@ranteer.com
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:48 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Oil filter

I feel foolish for even asking this.  I have a wix filter on my car, and I'm
getting ready to change the oil.  Apparently I have the correct filter
number for the hondas, my daughters Z, and some cars I no longer even own!
But I dont have the one for the tr6 (it has a spin on adapter).  I could
remove the old one, and then get the number and go to the flaps.  But it
would be really nice if someone could help me out here.

Thanks!

________________________________________

6pack@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/mharc@autox.team.net


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 06:46:58 2013
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References: <20130428204757.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.be6e24ca39.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 08:45:02 -0400
From: John North <johncnorth@gmail.com>
To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Oil filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

This is the list I have used, which came originally from a 6-pack member...

Oil filters to fit the screw adapter
AC PF-56
AC PF952 (short)
AC Delco Ultraguard Gold UPFL-400A
Bosch 72-143
Bosch 72129 (short)
Bosch 72161
CarQuest 85516
Champion C104 (short)
Crosland 529 (short)
Fram PH3512 (short)
Fram PH-3600
(Fram PH-3614)
Full PH-400
Halfords HOF200 (short)
K&N HP-2009
Kralinator L38
Lee LF-42
Mann W719/36
Mobil-1 M1-209
Moss 235-950
Motaquip VFL123 (short)
Motorcraft FL-276
Motorcraft FL-313 (short)
Motorcraft FL400A
NAPA Gold 1516
NAPA Gold 1361
Purolator L10101 (short) (was PER 101)
Purolator L20064
Purolator L20195
Sears 45197
STP SO-400
Unipart GFE173 (short)
Unipart GFE443
Wix 51335 (short)
Wix 51516


John North
1976 TR6

On Sun, Apr 28, 2013 at 11:47 PM,  <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
> I feel foolish for even asking this.  I have a wix filter on my car, and I'm
> getting ready to change the oil.  Apparently I have the correct filter number
> for the hondas, my daughters Z, and some cars I no longer even own!  But I
> dont have the one for the tr6 (it has a spin on adapter).  I could remove the
> old one, and then get the number and go to the flaps.  But it would be really
> nice if someone could help me out here.
>
> Thanks!
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/johncnorth@gmail.com

________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 10:13:32 -0500
Subject: Re: [6pack] Oil filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I've taken John's list and put it on my web site for those interested: 
http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/filters/

-----Original Message----- 
From: John North
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2013 7:45 AM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Oil filter 

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