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From: Andrew Packard <apackard68@att.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 09:55:30 -0700
To: fot@autox.team.net, 6 Digest <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] 1969 GT6+ project unable to complete
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Triumph friends:

I'm officially spread a little thin with my Triumph projects and am forced to
move away from my GT6+ restoration effort.  I have a black plate California
car that sat dormant since 1977, acquired from Whittier, CA.  I had the frame
media blasted and powdered coated red, as well as all of the suspension
pieces.  The body was also media blasted and powder coated in primer and even
finish coat powder coated inside the tub and underneath.  The painter took
care of the few dents and dings  and painted the outside in single stage
white, adding a red Group 44 type stripe across the front.  Rust was almost
non-existant but the couple small areas have been addressed with fiberglass
and was very well done.  Car is rolling on nearly completed suspension (rear
stabilizer bars not attached).  Engine is numbers matching according to BMH
certificate, but will need to be disassembled as it will not turn.  I have a
set of .030 over pistons for the rebuild, too.  Seats and interior panels have
also been redone.  I have brand new A/R 4 spoke wheels with new tires on it
now, but these may be sold separately.  It is not an overdrive car.

I also have many parts from a GT6+ I initially bought for the project except
for the engine, frame and body that I sold off.

If you are interested in picking up a top end restoration project, please
contact me off list.  I will send you a few pics and talk price.  I have
$10,500 in the car now and would like to recover a reasonable portion of this
amount.

Andy Packard
SF Bay Area, CA

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul  2 17:50:12 2013
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From: Cris Hemingway <cris_tr6@hotmail.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:47:27 -0700
References: <U4pVT0rcw00018f74@blu0-omc1-s4.blu0.hotmail.com>
	FILETIME=[822858F0:01CE777E]
Subject: [6pack] FW: Delivery Status Notification (Failure)
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From: postmaster@mail.hotmail.com
To: cris_tr6@hotmail.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:44:53 -0700
Subject: Delivery Status Notification (Failure)

This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification.

Delivery to the following recipients failed.

       6pack@autox.net



--Forwarded Message Attachment--From: cris_tr6@hotmail.com
To: 6pack@autox.net
Subject: FW: Intermittent high speed miss
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:44:53 -0700





Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:41:27 -0700
Subject: Fwd: Intermittent high speed miss
From: cris@peakhomeinspection.com
To: cris_tr6@hotmail.com






Cris Hemingway
CPBC Lic#49097

Sent from Samsung tablet


-------- Original message --------
Subject: Intermittent high speed miss
From: PEAK HOME INSPECTION <cris@peakhomeinspection.com>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
CC:


Rebuilt cyl head have compression in the 145 to 150 lb on all cylinders wet
and dry.  Rebuilt carbs new jets and throttle shafts and bushing seals,
Car runs ok but has a very intermittent miss and just hiccups every few
seconds randomly.
Have new plugs and wires as well as dist cap and rotor.  Crane electronic
ignition with full voltage coil.
Any ideas where to look next?





Cris Hemingway
CPBC Lic#49097

Sent from Samsung tablet
Reporting-MTA: dns;blu0-omc1-s4.blu0.hotmail.com
Received-From-MTA: dns;BLU169-W81
Arrival-Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:44:53 -0700

Final-Recipient: rfc822;6pack@autox.net
Action: failed
Status: 5.7.1
Diagnostic-Code: smtp;554 5.7.1 <6pack@autox.net>: Relay access denied

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 18:21:01 2013
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References: <mailman.12.1372874404.2358.6pack@autox.team.net>
From: Bill Palmer <wmp@charter.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 20:19:21 -0400
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 76
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Try buying a new rotor from Moss.

Sent via mobile Palmer

On Jul 3, 2013, at 2:00 PM, 6pack-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
>    6pack@autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    6pack-request@autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    6pack-owner@autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. FW: Delivery Status Notification (Failure) (Cris Hemingway)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:47:27 -0700
> From: Cris Hemingway <cris_tr6@hotmail.com>
> To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] FW: Delivery Status Notification (Failure)
> Message-ID: <BLU169-W48E0AE81A799054E1B197AB720@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> From: postmaster@mail.hotmail.com
> To: cris_tr6@hotmail.com
> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:44:53 -0700
> Subject: Delivery Status Notification (Failure)
> 
> This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification.
> 
> Delivery to the following recipients failed.
> 
>       6pack@autox.net
> 
> 
> 
> --Forwarded Message Attachment--From: cris_tr6@hotmail.com
> To: 6pack@autox.net
> Subject: FW: Intermittent high speed miss
> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:44:53 -0700
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:41:27 -0700
> Subject: Fwd: Intermittent high speed miss
> From: cris@peakhomeinspection.com
> To: cris_tr6@hotmail.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cris Hemingway
> CPBC Lic#49097
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet
> 
> 
> -------- Original message --------
> Subject: Intermittent high speed miss
> From: PEAK HOME INSPECTION <cris@peakhomeinspection.com>
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> CC:
> 
> 
> Rebuilt cyl head have compression in the 145 to 150 lb on all cylinders wet
> and dry.  Rebuilt carbs new jets and throttle shafts and bushing seals,
> Car runs ok but has a very intermittent miss and just hiccups every few
> seconds randomly.
> Have new plugs and wires as well as dist cap and rotor.  Crane electronic
> ignition with full voltage coil.
> Any ideas where to look next?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cris Hemingway
> CPBC Lic#49097
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet
> Reporting-MTA: dns;blu0-omc1-s4.blu0.hotmail.com
> Received-From-MTA: dns;BLU169-W81
> Arrival-Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:44:53 -0700
> 
> Final-Recipient: rfc822;6pack@autox.net
> Action: failed
> Status: 5.7.1
> Diagnostic-Code: smtp;554 5.7.1 <6pack@autox.net>: Relay access denied
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 6pack mailing list
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> 
> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 76
> ************************************

________________________________________

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 12:26:24 2013
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From: "Colin Thom" <colinthom@shaw.ca>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.14.1372960803.1608.6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 11:26:16 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac544S5LAOCgAaHBTiyllGFljW7aJgAAqd8A
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [6pack] high speed miss
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

1)	Try richening the mixture a bit. If that doesn't help, turn it back
to where it was.
2)	Are the plugs properly gapped?
3)	I had a faulty plug lead once that plagued me with a high speed
miss.  I deduced this because I'd ruled out everything else. I replaced all
the leads at once and the problem went away.

One lister once said all carb problems are electrical and all ignition
problems are solved by the carbs.

Colin '75

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of 6pack-request@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2013 11:00 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 77

Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
	6pack@autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	6pack-request@autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
	6pack-owner@autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 76 (Bill Palmer)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 20:19:21 -0400
From: Bill Palmer <wmp@charter.net>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 76

Try buying a new rotor from Moss.

Sent via mobile Palmer

On Jul 3, 2013, at 2:00 PM, 6pack-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
>    6pack@autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    6pack-request@autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    6pack-owner@autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. FW: Delivery Status Notification (Failure) (Cris Hemingway)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:47:27 -0700
> From: Cris Hemingway <cris_tr6@hotmail.com>
> To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] FW: Delivery Status Notification (Failure)
> Message-ID: <BLU169-W48E0AE81A799054E1B197AB720@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> From: postmaster@mail.hotmail.com
> To: cris_tr6@hotmail.com
> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:44:53 -0700
> Subject: Delivery Status Notification (Failure)
> 
> This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification.
> 
> Delivery to the following recipients failed.
> 
>       6pack@autox.net
> 
> 
> 
> --Forwarded Message Attachment--From: cris_tr6@hotmail.com
> To: 6pack@autox.net
> Subject: FW: Intermittent high speed miss
> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:44:53 -0700
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:41:27 -0700
> Subject: Fwd: Intermittent high speed miss
> From: cris@peakhomeinspection.com
> To: cris_tr6@hotmail.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cris Hemingway
> CPBC Lic#49097
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet
> 
> 
> -------- Original message --------
> Subject: Intermittent high speed miss
> From: PEAK HOME INSPECTION <cris@peakhomeinspection.com>
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> CC:
> 
> 
> Rebuilt cyl head have compression in the 145 to 150 lb on all cylinders
wet
> and dry.  Rebuilt carbs new jets and throttle shafts and bushing seals,
> Car runs ok but has a very intermittent miss and just hiccups every few
> seconds randomly.
> Have new plugs and wires as well as dist cap and rotor.  Crane electronic
> ignition with full voltage coil.
> Any ideas where to look next?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cris Hemingway
> CPBC Lic#49097
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet
> Reporting-MTA: dns;blu0-omc1-s4.blu0.hotmail.com
> Received-From-MTA: dns;BLU169-W81
> Arrival-Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:44:53 -0700
> 
> Final-Recipient: rfc822;6pack@autox.net
> Action: failed
> Status: 5.7.1
> Diagnostic-Code: smtp;554 5.7.1 <6pack@autox.net>: Relay access denied
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 6pack mailing list
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> 
> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 76
> ************************************


------------------------------

_______________________________________________
6pack mailing list
6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


End of 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 77
************************************

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 13:39:00 2013
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 12:38:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Yahoo <brucesimms2003@yahoo.ca>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Intermittent hiccup & miss
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris:
 
Is your distributor original?   I've had the Crane electronic
ignition for many years, but things improved upon having distributor re-built
by Advanced.    He installs one of the new red rotors as part of the
service.   new wires and plugs are not always perfect.  test em.   I recall an
issue with some rotors clearing my Crane set-up.   Sanded a bit off the back
and all was good.
 
Bruce 73 TR6

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 13:11:24 2013
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References: <B9024FD6-5D78-4DB6-B88C-CF6D6C727368@cs.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 14:11:14 -0500
From: Irv Korey <emanteno@comcast.net>
To: ISOA <isoa@googlegroups.com>, Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Fwd: [TR] Kastner Cup 2013. Road America. 6-8 September 2013
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Jul 7, 2013 1:07 PM
Subject: [TR] Kastner Cup 2013. Road America. 6-8 September 2013
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Shawn Frank" <my71spit13@yahoo.com>

Are you planning on going to the 11th Running of The Kastner Cup?

Would you like to save some money and increase your participation?

Register with VSCDA as a Crew Member of the Friends of Triumph!

$40.00 will get you:

Crew Status with The Kastner/Brock TR250K for the entire weekend.
Hanging out with Kas & Peg at the FOT Garages at Turn 14
An event poster you can have Kas sign.
Your own Paddock area for Triumphs Only inside of Turn 5
Friday Nite Triumph Car Show and Welcome Dinner at the Track.

$85.00 will get you the above and:

Track Touring one session on Saturday or Sunday
The 'Old Course Reenactment' in conjunction with the Gathering On The Green
(Sat)
Pre-Kastner Cup Pace Lap prior to the race.

Go to FOT-racing.com/ website and click on Driver & Crew Information for
printable form, fill it out and send it to VSCDA as directed.

This is a special deal and a peak experience in the Kastner Cup Series of 11
years.

Please forward this offer to you clubs, forms, and other friends.

August deadline.........

Thanks.

Joe Alexander
Friends of Triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/emanteno@gmail.com

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul  9 21:53:34 2013
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Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2013 21:52:41 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:20.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/20.0 SeaMonkey/2.17.1
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>, Triumph <6pack@autox.team.net>, 
	Spitfires@autox.team.net
References: <51DCDA12.1070501@bradakis.com>
Subject: [6pack] Parts is parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Just put a couple postings on the Team.Net swap meet forum:

TR6 ( or Jaguar ) carbs:

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=161

Late squaretail Spit multifunction switch:

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=160


Anyway, let me know if interested, eventually I'll get the garage to the
point where I can actually work in it again.

mjb.

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 13 07:57:39 2013
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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 09:57:27 -0400
From: John North <johncnorth@gmail.com>
To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Rich mixture and O2 sensor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I am trying to resolve an air/fuel problem on my K&N gauge and sensors
which give a reading in the 12-13 range on the gauge.   Also
accelerating from tight bends in autocross, the engine bogs down and
blows black smoke.

The plugs don't look bad.   1 and 6 are a little dark, the rest are a
light  brown.   Adjustments to the carb needles had zero impact on the
A/F reading at the gauge.   So I have replaced the carbs with a
rebuilt set however, the reading is still in the 12s with the needles
at full lean.

I used the Gunson colortune and it shows a blue flame at idle, yellow
flame for a second or two when I blip the gas, then settles to a nice
blue flame between 2000 and 4000 rpms.   Not sure whether the initial
yellow is how the carbs should work, maybe this could be contributing
to the bog down on acceleration through corners.

So maybe the gauge is faulty??   Or the sensors (I have two on the
downpipes with a switch to change carbs)??

Someone suggested that the autocross problem may  be floats set too
high sloshing fuel around, so in the rebuilt carbs I lowered them to
the lowest tolerance in the manual.   Haven't had an autocross event
yet to test this out.

Any suggestions as to how to test the sensors and gauge?   Any help
appreciated.   Autocrossing in this condition is embarassing...

John North
1976 TR6

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 15 10:00:25 2013
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 08:59:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Yahoo <brucesimms2003@yahoo.ca>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Using the Colortune
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

There's a Utube video on line "Tuning SUs using Gunson Colourtune" or similar
name if you want to search for it.   The video actually shows the flame color
changes as he adjusts.
Cheers, Bruce Simms

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 21 16:09:24 2013
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Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 22:09:14 +0000 (GMT)
From: wcwellbaum@cox.net
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [6pack] Alternator question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Need some advice on where to turn:

I have a '75 Tr-6.  It sits in my garage on a battery tender when not on 
the road.  This morning I started it up and noticed a faint glow from 
the red ignition light.  Increasing the rpm's made the red light 
brighter.  Stepping on the brake pedal or turning on the headlights made 
the red light brighter still.  I noticed the headlights do not have a 
crisp white color--more yellowish.

The battery shows 12.6 volts with engine off.  On Startup the multimeter 
shows 14.6 volts from idle up to 3500 rpm--not much change in charging 
rate with changes in rpm.  Alternatore was rebuilt 3-4 years ago--few 
miles since.

Battery does take and hold a charge but only for a month or so if not on 
a tender.  And yes--the battery is 8-10 years old.  I know, I know.

So is the problem related to:

1.  Old and tired battery.
2.  bad ground (hint--yellowish headlights)--and if so--where go I start 
looking for a corroded ground.
3.  Failure of the alternator --which does charge but at a steady rate.
4.  Diode falure in the alternator.

Any suggestions?

Bill Wellbaum
Las Vegas
baclv.org

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 21 17:19:23 2013
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To: 6pack@autox.team.net
From: lfm614@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 23:19:12 +0000
Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternator question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like a battery problem to me but I think I would take it to your favorite FLAPS and have them put their tester on it. Around here they do it for free and that will tell you for sure. 
-----Original Message-----
From: wcwellbaum@cox.net
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 22:09:14 
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Alternator question

Need some advice on where to turn:

I have a '75 Tr-6.  It sits in my garage on a battery tender when not on 
the road.  This morning I started it up and noticed a faint glow from 
the red ignition light.  Increasing the rpm's made the red light 
brighter.  Stepping on the brake pedal or turning on the headlights made 
the red light brighter still.  I noticed the headlights do not have a 
crisp white color--more yellowish.

The battery shows 12.6 volts with engine off.  On Startup the multimeter 
shows 14.6 volts from idle up to 3500 rpm--not much change in charging 
rate with changes in rpm.  Alternatore was rebuilt 3-4 years ago--few 
miles since.

Battery does take and hold a charge but only for a month or so if not on 
a tender.  And yes--the battery is 8-10 years old.  I know, I know.

So is the problem related to:

1.  Old and tired battery.
2.  bad ground (hint--yellowish headlights)--and if so--where go I start 
looking for a corroded ground.
3.  Failure of the alternator --which does charge but at a steady rate.
4.  Diode falure in the alternator.

Any suggestions?

Bill Wellbaum
Las Vegas
baclv.org

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 21 17:54:52 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: <wcwellbaum@cox.net>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <1305e24.c1d6.14003478a4f.Webtop.0@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 19:52:45 -0400
Thread-Index: AQIDW5zMZx8OmiXPRESiOt+UwS0Zw5kGIVrg
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternator question
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Bill - When you have the headlights and any other accessories (heater)
turned on, see if there is a voltage difference between the negative post of
the battery and the body or tub. Also, check for any voltage difference
between the negative battery post and the engine block. There should be
virtually no voltage drop. There is a ground strap from the engine to the
body but these can disintegrate. I have found that any additional bonding or
grounding connections between the battery and the block/body will help.
Also, there may be a ground wire that connects to the alternator case - make
sure that is in good shape. There should be no voltage drop between the
alternator case and the grounded side of the battery.

If the addition of a bonding wire from the battery to the tub makes the
lights brighter, you have identified part of the problem.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of wcwellbaum@cox.net
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 6:09 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Alternator question

Need some advice on where to turn:

I have a '75 Tr-6.  It sits in my garage on a battery tender when not on the
road.  This morning I started it up and noticed a faint glow from the red
ignition light.  Increasing the rpm's made the red light brighter.  Stepping
on the brake pedal or turning on the headlights made the red light brighter
still.  I noticed the headlights do not have a crisp white color--more
yellowish.

The battery shows 12.6 volts with engine off.  On Startup the multimeter
shows 14.6 volts from idle up to 3500 rpm--not much change in charging rate
with changes in rpm.  Alternatore was rebuilt 3-4 years ago--few miles
since.

Battery does take and hold a charge but only for a month or so if not on a
tender.  And yes--the battery is 8-10 years old.  I know, I know.

So is the problem related to:

1.  Old and tired battery.
2.  bad ground (hint--yellowish headlights)--and if so--where go I start
looking for a corroded ground.
3.  Failure of the alternator --which does charge but at a steady rate.
4.  Diode falure in the alternator.

Any suggestions?

Bill Wellbaum
Las Vegas
baclv.org

________________________________________

6pack@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson@charter.net

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 21 17:55:47 2013
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Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 23:55:42 +0000 (GMT)
From: wcwellbaum@cox.net
To: lfm614@aol.com
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternator question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

So, to be clear:  If the battery is fully charged and turns the engine 
over as normal--and the alternator is charging at Plus 14 volts what is 
it about the battery that would make the ignition light glow dimly at 
idle and brighter at hight rpm--and brighter yet if I step on the bakes 
or turn on the headlights.  I an no electrical whizbang--and cannot 
fathom how that could be the source of the problem.  Help me understand. 
Aside from the fact that it could be 10 years plus old.   BW

On Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 4:19 PM, lfm614@aol.com wrote:

> Sounds like a battery problem to me but I think I would take it to 
> your favorite FLAPS and have them put their tester on it. Around here 
> they do it for free and that will tell you for sure. -----Original 
> Message-----
> From: wcwellbaum@cox.net
> Sender: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 22:09:14 To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] Alternator question
>
> Need some advice on where to turn:
>
> I have a '75 Tr-6.  It sits in my garage on a battery tender when not 
> on the road.  This morning I started it up and noticed a faint glow 
> from the red ignition light.  Increasing the rpm's made the red light 
> brighter.  Stepping on the brake pedal or turning on the headlights 
> made the red light brighter still.  I noticed the headlights do not 
> have a crisp white color--more yellowish.
>
> The battery shows 12.6 volts with engine off.  On Startup the 
> multimeter shows 14.6 volts from idle up to 3500 rpm--not much change 
> in charging rate with changes in rpm.  Alternatore was rebuilt 3-4 
> years ago--few miles since.
>
> Battery does take and hold a charge but only for a month or so if not 
> on a tender.  And yes--the battery is 8-10 years old.  I know, I know.
>
> So is the problem related to:
>
> 1.  Old and tired battery.
> 2.  bad ground (hint--yellowish headlights)--and if so--where go I 
> start looking for a corroded ground.
> 3.  Failure of the alternator --which does charge but at a steady 
> rate.
> 4.  Diode falure in the alternator.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Bill Wellbaum
> Las Vegas
> baclv.org
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614@aol.com
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum@cox.net

________________________________________

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 21 17:58:41 2013
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From: lfm614@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 23:58:33 +0000
Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternator question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

-----Original Message-----
From: wcwellbaum@cox.net
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 23:55:42 
To: <lfm614@aol.com>
Cc: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternator question

So, to be clear:  If the battery is fully charged and turns the engine 
over as normal--and the alternator is charging at Plus 14 volts what is 
it about the battery that would make the ignition light glow dimly at 
idle and brighter at hight rpm--and brighter yet if I step on the bakes 
or turn on the headlights.  I an no electrical whizbang--and cannot 
fathom how that could be the source of the problem.  Help me understand. 
Aside from the fact that it could be 10 years plus old.   BW

On Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 4:19 PM, lfm614@aol.com wrote:

> Sounds like a battery problem to me but I think I would take it to 
> your favorite FLAPS and have them put their tester on it. Around here 
> they do it for free and that will tell you for sure. -----Original 
> Message-----
> From: wcwellbaum@cox.net
> Sender: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 22:09:14 To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] Alternator question
>
> Need some advice on where to turn:
>
> I have a '75 Tr-6.  It sits in my garage on a battery tender when not 
> on the road.  This morning I started it up and noticed a faint glow 
> from the red ignition light.  Increasing the rpm's made the red light 
> brighter.  Stepping on the brake pedal or turning on the headlights 
> made the red light brighter still.  I noticed the headlights do not 
> have a crisp white color--more yellowish.
>
> The battery shows 12.6 volts with engine off.  On Startup the 
> multimeter shows 14.6 volts from idle up to 3500 rpm--not much change 
> in charging rate with changes in rpm.  Alternatore was rebuilt 3-4 
> years ago--few miles since.
>
> Battery does take and hold a charge but only for a month or so if not 
> on a tender.  And yes--the battery is 8-10 years old.  I know, I know.
>
> So is the problem related to:
>
> 1.  Old and tired battery.
> 2.  bad ground (hint--yellowish headlights)--and if so--where go I 
> start looking for a corroded ground.
> 3.  Failure of the alternator --which does charge but at a steady 
> rate.
> 4.  Diode falure in the alternator.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Bill Wellbaum
> Las Vegas
> baclv.org
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614@aol.com
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum@cox.net

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 21 18:01:10 2013
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To: 6pack@autox.team.net
From: lfm614@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 00:01:01 +0000
Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternator question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Could be the battery breaking down under load or a bad, loose or corroded connection. The test should ferret that out.  Doubt its the alternator from the 14+ volts, its charging. 

Lou 
72 Pimento  
-----Original Message-----
From: wcwellbaum@cox.net
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 23:55:42 
To: <lfm614@aol.com>
Cc: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternator question

So, to be clear:  If the battery is fully charged and turns the engine 
over as normal--and the alternator is charging at Plus 14 volts what is 
it about the battery that would make the ignition light glow dimly at 
idle and brighter at hight rpm--and brighter yet if I step on the bakes 
or turn on the headlights.  I an no electrical whizbang--and cannot 
fathom how that could be the source of the problem.  Help me understand. 
Aside from the fact that it could be 10 years plus old.   BW

On Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 4:19 PM, lfm614@aol.com wrote:

> Sounds like a battery problem to me but I think I would take it to 
> your favorite FLAPS and have them put their tester on it. Around here 
> they do it for free and that will tell you for sure. -----Original 
> Message-----
> From: wcwellbaum@cox.net
> Sender: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 22:09:14 To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] Alternator question
>
> Need some advice on where to turn:
>
> I have a '75 Tr-6.  It sits in my garage on a battery tender when not 
> on the road.  This morning I started it up and noticed a faint glow 
> from the red ignition light.  Increasing the rpm's made the red light 
> brighter.  Stepping on the brake pedal or turning on the headlights 
> made the red light brighter still.  I noticed the headlights do not 
> have a crisp white color--more yellowish.
>
> The battery shows 12.6 volts with engine off.  On Startup the 
> multimeter shows 14.6 volts from idle up to 3500 rpm--not much change 
> in charging rate with changes in rpm.  Alternatore was rebuilt 3-4 
> years ago--few miles since.
>
> Battery does take and hold a charge but only for a month or so if not 
> on a tender.  And yes--the battery is 8-10 years old.  I know, I know.
>
> So is the problem related to:
>
> 1.  Old and tired battery.
> 2.  bad ground (hint--yellowish headlights)--and if so--where go I 
> start looking for a corroded ground.
> 3.  Failure of the alternator --which does charge but at a steady 
> rate.
> 4.  Diode falure in the alternator.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Bill Wellbaum
> Las Vegas
> baclv.org
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614@aol.com
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum@cox.net

________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 12:35:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternator question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Need some advice on where to turn:

I have a '75 Tr-6.  It sits in my garage
on a battery tender when not on 
the road.  This morning I started it up and
noticed a faint glow from 
the red ignition light


- snip -


Hi Bill,
 
If
you have filler caps, the first thing I would do on an old battery is check
the specific gravity on each of the cells. 

I have had old batteries that
looked good on a VOM, but had a bad cell and displayed "odd behaviors."  

If
it starts the engine with no hesitation, though, it might be something other
than the battery (bad diode feeding backwards, etc.).

best,


doug
____________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Triumph TR6
'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC
Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 27 17:24:18 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 18:20:53 -0500
Subject: [6pack] rear shocks and vibration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

hi.

Ibm getting a vibration at about 60 mph.  I figured it was a u joint, but
none of them are obvious.

the passenger side rear shock is all oily, so I figure its shot.

question 1 b could they be related?

question 2 b is it as straight forward as it looks?  pretty much unbolt and
bolt back in?  I figure while Ibm there Ibll redo all the rubber as well
b some of it looks a little tired.

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 27 17:54:18 2013
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From: <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 16:52:03 -0700
Subject: Re: [6pack] rear shocks and vibration
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 27 19:11:12 2013
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From: "Jeff Fetner" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>, "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <68C0BB5218F24063BD3F34B694750BB6@Datsun>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 15:06:00 -1000
Subject: Re: [6pack] rear shocks and vibration
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Aloha Dave,

  I would get a vibration at around that speed and it turned out a shock has 
leaked fluid to the point that the rear trailing arm was vibrating at speed. 
Filling it up fixed it...until it leaked low enough to start again.  I kept 
refilling until I got a set of rebuilt shocks.

  You could try pulling the wheel, filling the shock through the filer plug 
with motorcycle fork oil (or engine oil in a pinch) and see if that cures 
it.  Sounds like you need new shocks anyway; mine was leaking at the seal 
where the arm goes into the body.

Jeff
74.5 & 75 TR6

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 1:20 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: [6pack] rear shocks and vibration

hi.

Ibm getting a vibration at about 60 mph.  I figured it was a u joint, but
none of them are obvious.

the passenger side rear shock is all oily, so I figure its shot.

question 1 b could they be related?

question 2 b is it as straight forward as it looks?  pretty much unbolt and
bolt back in?  I figure while Ibm there Ibll redo all the rubber as well
b some of it looks a little tired.

________________________________________

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Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 28 12:34:40 2013
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Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2013 11:29:18 -0700
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
From: Glenn Rattmann <k6na@cts.com>
References: <68C0BB5218F24063BD3F34B694750BB6@Datsun>
Subject: Re: [6pack] rear shocks and vibration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave, Jeff's experience sounds useful here, especially if you are 
seeing fluid leak at the shock.

In addition, it could be a combination of things, acting together.
Our archives say that the original steel wheels (less than stellar 
quality, some say) sometimes cause vibration problems too.
In my own case, with original wheels, I just put a decent set of 
Yokohama tires on the TR6, and my 55MPH vibration problems all went away.

I had been suspecting shocks, or U-joints, maybe driveshaft balance, 
etc. but the tires did the trick for me.

--Glenn/74.5
San Diego

At 04:20 PM 7/27/2013, Dave wrote:

>Ibm getting a vibration at about 60 mph.  I figured it was a u joint, but
>none of them are obvious.
>
>the passenger side rear shock is all oily, so I figure its shot.
snip 

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 29 06:41:25 2013
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 08:34:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: Glenn Rattmann <k6na@cts.com>
References: <68C0BB5218F24063BD3F34B694750BB6@Datsun>
	<20130728182912.2863E4FB5@leviathan.concentric.com>
Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] rear shocks and vibration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't forget to check the tires for "runout". I had a vibration problem on 
my TR6 years back. One tire was almost .5 inches out of round. The source 
of the problem was a steel belt failure.

Lesson learned.

I didn't have a catastrophic tire failure, but I was extremely lucky in 
that regard.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: John VanNorman <jsvannorman@gmail.com>
To: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 14:45:57 -0400
	FILETIME=[DDAE3F10:01CE8C8B]
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Pedal Pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

The first time I drove my TR6 this year after winter storage I noticed that my
clutch pedal had no pressure. But after pumping it a bit, I finally got
pressure and was off and running. Didn't have any problem thereafter.
Fast forward to Saturday night - getting ready to take it out for our Buckeye
Triumph Night Rally. I've been pretty busy this summer and didn't get to drive
her for about a month and a half. Again, noticed that my clutch pedal had no
pressure, but was able to pump it up with no signs of trouble thereafter.

So what can it be? I checked the fluid level and it looks fine. No sign of
fluid loss in the engine bay or underneath the car either. I double checked
and when I had no pressure, the slave clyinder arm wouldn't move, so I know it
isn't anything inside the bell housing that is loose (plus, I have the
throughout bearing fork double pinned). Air in the line maybe? Other
thoughts?

John V.

1974 1/2 TR6

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 14:00:41 -0500
From: Irv Korey <emanteno@comcast.net>
To: John VanNorman <jsvannorman@gmail.com>
Cc: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Pedal Pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Jul 29, 2013 at 1:45 PM, John VanNorman <jsvannorman@gmail.com>wrote:

> The first time I drove my TR6 this year after winter storage I noticed
> that my
> clutch pedal had no pressure. But after pumping it a bit, I finally got
> pressure and was off and running. Didn't have any problem thereafter.
> Fast forward to Saturday night - getting ready to take it out for our
> Buckeye
> Triumph Night Rally. I've been pretty busy this summer and didn't get to
> drive
> her for about a month and a half. Again, noticed that my clutch pedal had
> no
> pressure, but was able to pump it up with no signs of trouble thereafter.
>
> So what can it be? I checked the fluid level and it looks fine. No sign of
> fluid loss in the engine bay or underneath the car either. I double checked
> and when I had no pressure, the slave clyinder arm wouldn't move, so I
> know it
> isn't anything inside the bell housing that is loose (plus, I have the
> throughout bearing fork double pinned). Air in the line maybe? Other
> thoughts?
>


I have had 2 slave cylinders fail and there wasn't a drop of fluid on the
ground. In both cases, this happened after the car had been sitting for a
while. In both cases, the fluid was inside the rubber boot of the slave
cylinder but had gotten past the seal on the slave cylinder piston. The
boot held the fluid inside and kept it off of the ground. The only
difference between my experiences and yours is that the clutch master was
empty both times it happened to me.

HTH,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 15:39:36 -0400
From: Jim Hurley <jimhurle@gmail.com>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Wheel/Tire Balance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

It could be as simple as a balance weight that came off. This may be why
one responder's new tires may have fixed his problem - the wheels got
balanced as part of the installation.

But you need to fix the leaky shock...

Jim Hurley

75 TR6

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 29 13:40:58 2013
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	Mon, 29 Jul 2013 12:40:46 -0700
From: John VanNorman <jsvannorman@gmail.com>
To: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 15:40:46 -0400
	FILETIME=[85458510:01CE8C93]
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Pedal Pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks guys!  I checked the fluid before the pressure came back (at which
point it looked fine), but not afterwards.  I'll have to double check it to
see if it is low now that the pressure has come back.  I bet the fluid is
getting past the seal on the slave cylinder, but the dust cap is keeping it
from leaking out onto the ground.

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 29 14:42:37 2013
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Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 13:41:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Alex Cherington <a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Front Brake Pad Noises
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,
I replaced the brake calipers on my 76b TR6  a while ago and now I seem to
be getting clonks from the brake pads as they seem to be moving around with
the wheel rotation.
 
Anybody else had this?
 
I wonder if there are other
retaining pins which may be a tad bigger and a tighter fit in the caliper
holes.
 
Thanks

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