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From: Bob Rochlin <r_rochlin@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>, Truiumphs
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 22:08:26 +0000
	FILETIME=[3868DA40:01CED8E1]
Subject: [6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List,   I'm contemplating rebuilding the engine of my 72' TR6 this
winter.  I am hoping the collective experience of the list can give me some
guidance as to some of the decisions I'll have to make.   I'm thinking of
getting a cam just a little hotter then stock and shaving the head just a bit.
I've been very happy with the performance of the original ZS carburetors and
wonder of they are  able to supply the increased fuel demands of the new set
up. As far as I understand the jets are fixed.   Speaking of cams, how
necessary are cam bearings?  Should I have them installed while I'm doing the
rebuild?  The engine runs very well, but bit doggie.  I don't think that it's
ever had any machine shop work done.  I did a compression test about a year
ago.  The results were low of 85, hight of 120.  A leak down test confirmed
that almost all the lost compression was through  the rings.  The car burns
almost no oil (it just leaks out a little)  what other components should I
replace as a matter of course during the rebuild?  Anything I should look out
for?  I am long forward to hearing your advice.  Take care.  Bob

________________________________________

6pack@autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/mharc@autox.team.net


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  3 16:12:07 2013
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From: David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 17:58:02 -0500
To: Bob Rochlin <r_rochlin@hotmail.com>
Cc: Truiumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	"6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob;

I just completed a rebuild of my '74 after blowing the head gasket on a
road trip a hundred miles from home... I got the car towed and began work
immediately. I went with a Goodparts GP2 cam -- a little spicier than a
stock cam but very useable for the street. Had my head milled to flat (.009
shaved by the local machine shop). CR is now 9.75:1. Replaced the thrust
washers (+0.005), connecting rod bearings, pushrods (one was bent from "the
event"), tappets (one shattered) and +0.020 piston rings (last item from
BPNW). My compression was pretty low beforehand, too, so I felt this was
the time to re-ring. Be careful with your bore measurements and compression
ring gaps (Bentley's specifies the gaps for each ring on pg. 101). Measure
the gaps of top and second rings carefully (pg. 99). Cam bearings may be a
good idea though not really necessary -- but you'll need to pull the engine
to line bore the block for them to do that. I have no cam bearings and did
all my work with the block still in the car. Bentley's has some good
instructions but patience and a sense of humor make the job easier. You'll
need a piston ring compressor and perhaps a cylinder hone attachment for
your drill if your cylinder walls are "glazed."  Timing the crank with the
cam you'll also need a degree wheel and a dial indicator. Good luck, Bob!
Keep us posted on your progress.

I'd heartily recommend Rick Patton's Throttle Body Injection (TBI) so you
won't have to ever worry about those carbs and diaphragms again (
http://www.pattonmachine.com). NFI.... Just a very satisfied customer

Dave Friedlander
'74 Six with TBI and A-type OD



On Sun, Nov 3, 2013 at 5:08 PM, Bob Rochlin <r_rochlin@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hi List,   I'm contemplating rebuilding the engine of my 72' TR6 this
> winter.  I am hoping the collective experience of the list can give me some
> guidance as to some of the decisions I'll have to make.   I'm thinking of
> getting a cam just a little hotter then stock and shaving the head just a
> bit.
> I've been very happy with the performance of the original ZS carburetors
> and
> wonder of they are  able to supply the increased fuel demands of the new
> set
> up. As far as I understand the jets are fixed.   Speaking of cams, how
> necessary are cam bearings?  Should I have them installed while I'm doing
> the
> rebuild?  The engine runs very well, but bit doggie.  I don't think that
> it's
> ever had any machine shop work done.  I did a compression test about a year
> ago.  The results were low of 85, hight of 120.  A leak down test confirmed
> that almost all the lost compression was through  the rings.  The car burns
> almost no oil (it just leaks out a little)  what other components should I
> replace as a matter of course during the rebuild?  Anything I should look
> out
> for?  I am long forward to hearing your advice.  Take care.  Bob

________________________________________

6pack@autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/mharc@autox.team.net


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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Bob Rochlin'" <r_rochlin@hotmail.com>, <6pack@autox.team.net>,
	"'Truiumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY167-W93BA55C8AAEDFDEB4BB30C9FF70@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 17:58:56 -0500
Thread-index: AQH3XDCvRD6Q93VFuXcKVzYHadNv8pnDFudA
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob - I lost several lobes of a cam several years ago and replaced the
camshaft with a GoodParts GP2. Lots of low end torque (like my farm
tractors) and seems just right for our type of driving. I can't remember how
much we had the head shaved but the shop that did the work gave me figures
for actual volume of the combustion chamber contained in the head. I never
did get around to doing the math. I think I bought the cam and followers
from TRF along with a new oil pump. The new oil pump made a big difference
in hot pressure.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Rochlin
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2013 5:08 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net; Truiumphs
Subject: [6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild

Hi List,   I'm contemplating rebuilding the engine of my 72' TR6 this
winter.  I am hoping the collective experience of the list can give me some
guidance as to some of the decisions I'll have to make.   I'm thinking of
getting a cam just a little hotter then stock and shaving the head just a
bit.
I've been very happy with the performance of the original ZS carburetors and
wonder of they are  able to supply the increased fuel demands of the new set
up. As far as I understand the jets are fixed.   Speaking of cams, how
necessary are cam bearings?  Should I have them installed while I'm doing
the rebuild?  The engine runs very well, but bit doggie.  I don't think that
it's ever had any machine shop work done.  I did a compression test about a
year ago.  The results were low of 85, hight of 120.  A leak down test
confirmed that almost all the lost compression was through  the rings.  The
car burns almost no oil (it just leaks out a little)  what other components
should I replace as a matter of course during the rebuild?  Anything I
should look out for?  I am long forward to hearing your advice.  Take care.
Bob

________________________________________

6pack@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson@charter.net

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  3 18:12:49 2013
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From: Richard Seaton <rsh17@msn.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>, 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>, Truiumphs
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 18:30:26 -0600
References: <BAY167-W93BA55C8AAEDFDEB4BB30C9FF70@phx.gbl>,
	<99064F2C8FE547B381EAAB33738372AC@Datsun>
	FILETIME=[0ED23F50:01CED8F5]
Subject: Re: [6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

you can get away with out cam bearings if you go with a GP2 cam, Piper 270, or
Kia's middle cam (WBC518v2). Replace cam tappets with quality replacements!!!.
I would want to line bore the mains to get them within spec as they may be out
of round same with the rods. A lightened flywheel is a worthwhile modification
and Wishbone ($229) can turn your stock one down and loose some weight. The
motor will spool up quicker with no ill effects. I had mine turned down and
ballanced for $75 10 years ago at Race Engine Designs in Georgia (do a
search). Do use the better thrust washers (Custom Thrust Washers). Raising the
compression to 9:1 and still use pump gas. Follow correct cam break in
procedures and use ZZDP in your oils or Dello Diesel oil. The use of 3 ZS
carbs isn't of any benefit except for the bling factor. Mild port matching of
the intake and exhaust is easy to do. Rebuild/ recurve the dist for the engine
mods, which ins't too exspensive. Jeff's Advance Distributors.

Of course new valves, springs, guides and a hardened rocker shaft.

> From: dave@ranteer.com
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 17:01:39 -0600
> Subject: Re: [6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild
>
> I recommend, and did:
>
> aluminum fan base
> electric fan
> lightened flywheel
> shaved, ported and polished head
> decked block
> pistons 30 over
> balanced engine
> goodparts gp2 cam
> goodparts triple carb setup (uses the zs carbs)
> goodparts lowered suspension springs
> upgraded goodparts front sway bar
> goodparts rear swaybar
> goodparts adjustable camber rear trailing arm mounts
> heavy duty rear lever arm shocks
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/ShockRec.jpg
> replacement lug nuts (hated that flakey chrome look)
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/LugNuts.jpg
> brass gas tank sending unit float
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/fordfloat.jpg
> litezupp L.E.D stop and rear blinkers
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/LIteZupp.jpg
> digital flasher unit  http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/BlinkerEL12.jpg
> 215/60R15 yokohama tires  http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/scan0008.jpg
> high torque starter from ted schumacher
>
> do all this and you won't recognize the car.  but YOU WILL LOVE IT!!!!!
> this car is competitive with a tr6 with a rover v8 in autocross
>
>
> all pretty well documented at www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6
>
> contact me offline if you have any questions.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Rochlin
> Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2013 4:08 PM
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net ; Truiumphs
> Subject: [6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild
>
> Hi List,   I'm contemplating rebuilding the engine of my 72' TR6 this
> winter.  I am hoping the collective experience of the list can give me some
> guidance as to some of the decisions I'll have to make.   I'm thinking of
> getting a cam just a little hotter then stock and shaving the head just a
> bit.
> I've been very happy with the performance of the original ZS carburetors
and
> wonder of they are  able to supply the increased fuel demands of the new
set
> up. As far as I understand the jets are fixed.   Speaking of cams, how
> necessary are cam bearings?  Should I have them installed while I'm doing
> the
> rebuild?  The engine runs very well, but bit doggie.  I don't think that
> it's
> ever had any machine shop work done.  I did a compression test about a year
> ago.  The results were low of 85, hight of 120.  A leak down test confirmed
> that almost all the lost compression was through  the rings.  The car burns
> almost no oil (it just leaks out a little)  what other components should I
> replace as a matter of course during the rebuild?  Anything I should look
> out
> for?  I am long forward to hearing your advice.  Take care.  Bob
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rsh17@msn.com

________________________________________

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 08:20:22 2013
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	2013 10:15:37 -0500
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 10:15:37 -0500 (EST)
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: Bob Rochlin <r_rochlin@hotmail.com>
References: <BAY167-W93BA55C8AAEDFDEB4BB30C9FF70@phx.gbl>
Cc: Truiumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	"6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

You already did the most important part - test the engine health prior to 
the teardown!

Building on what others have said:

I would spend the money on installing cam bearings. It's a lot of $$$ to 
align bore the block and install the bearings, but it's totally worth it 
because the block is almost always worn in the cam journals, and this can 
be a cause for low oil pressure. BUT, before you commit to getting the 
block bored out and everything - MEASURE WHAT YOU HAVE. If you get a new 
cam and it fits and you have reasonable clearances, then you can skip the 
cam bearings.

I guess the overall point here is that you shouldn't "just do" various 
operations on the block because you have the motor apart. Do the work 
because the block needs it, or you need it for longevity, or, or or. 
Nobody can answer the core question but you.

Regarding compression, I'm a big fan of 9.5:1 or so. You can do that and 
still run regular gas as long as you don't go crazy with the timing. I run 
9.67:1 on my street car and I have no problem with pinging. I do get 
"run-on" sometimes but only when I've been lugging the engine. To the 
point, though - get the head "cc'd" when you get it milled. There are 
charts on the web, like goodpart.com, that explain the relationship of the 
combustion chamber, the bore and so forth. Don't assume that beacuse you 
remove a certain amount from the casting that you'll be at a certain 
compression ratio - MEASURE IT. There's enough variances in the head that 
you can be off quite a bit just assuming a certain "skim" will up the c/r.

As far as the cam goes, you can get bigger lifts with less duration to 
make the cam more streetable. Just use this point to decide: If you drive 
the car in 3rd or 4th, can you drive the way YOU drive at 2500 RPM... if 
the answer is "yes, I always do this" then stay away from the cams with 
seat to seat duration of more than 280 degrees. If you tend to be more in 
the 3k rpm or more, than you can get away with the more hairy cams. 
Actually, the thing to look for is the lobe centers... and you want to 
have l.c.s in the 110-108 range. Lobe centers in the 103-104 range are 
hairy and they will not pull at low RPM.

Of course, nothing is ever simple and there are newer grinds out that that 
have assyimetrical profiles... FWIW, I run a GP3 cam in my street car and 
it is not that hairy in terms of drivability. BUT, the idle vacuum is very 
low, so idle timing / mixture etc. is very sensitive. So, once in a while, 
I'll try to accelerate in 3rd at say 2000 rpm - the motor won't pull at 
all. But, you just drop a gear and off you go.

Everything else is personal preference. For example, I wouldn't just bore 
.030 over. Why? If the holes are round, but the taper is only a couple of 
thou', why remove ALL the material in the block? Maybe an .010 or .020 
bore is called for. You might also base your choice on parts 
availability... I have a couple of motors that are .020 because that's 
what I had on hand AND the bores were pretty good to start with.

I'd also strongly suggest getting a GOOD header and exhaust system. This 
makes a huge difference in the available power. Money well spent. I would 
NOT go crazy with induction unless you're going for max. power. If you are 
building a street car, you are NOT going for max. power. Trust me on that. 
Your stock ZS175's are good for about 170 to 175 flywheel HP. THAT'S A LOT 
OF POWER and you won't get there without going to at least 12:1 
compression - so there's nothing to be gained by changing that aspect of 
the system. Well, there is the ooooh - aaaahhhh factor. But there's no 
mechanical reason to get nuts with the carbs.

Oh well, enough blabbering....if you have questions, fire away.

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Subject: [6pack]  72" TR6 Engine Rebuild
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Bob Rochlin wrote:

>I'm contemplating rebuilding the engine of my 72' TR6.

 

Bob - 

   As somebody else mentioned, get the distributor rebuilt/recurved by Jeff
at Advanced Distributors.  I made all the improvements to my '76 TR6 that
you are considering but never got the OOMPH that I was expecting until years
later when I finally got the distributor rebuilt. Car has been running like
a scalded cat ever since.  Best $$ I have spent on the car in 25 years.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U 

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 11:03:23 2013
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2013 12:30:06 -0500
From: Glenn Franco <gaf3@charter.net>
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To: 6pack@autox.team.net, r_rochlin@hotmail.com
References: <mailman.170.1383578253.27064.6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Engine Rebuild Guidelines.
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Bob
I'll keep it simple
I have had much success with the 150hp new cam from British Parts 
Northwest. I have rebuilt 4 of these in the last 18 months and they 
perform well with that cam and the Zenith Stromberg Carbs.
You will find that the cam lobes are wiped on your original cam anyways 
and the lifters will be junk.
Of course you need to replace the lifters.
An added benefit is to have .100 milled off of the head which will get 
you close to ~ 9:1 compression ratio.
If you do that you will need a bit shorter push rods that you can get 
from the same source.
No need for cam bearings unless you have money to burn.
Make sure you have a reputable source bore and hone the cylinders at 
least .020" over and check your ring gaps and piston clearance before 
assembly.
Use Rotella 15w40 for your break in.
Inspect your new parts carefully as I have had bad pistons and bearings 
come in from County. Even the Tri metals were bad.
Have fun
Glenn


---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Message: 1 Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 22:08:26 +0000 From: Bob Rochlin 
<r_rochlin@hotmail.com> To: "6pack@autox.team.net" 
<6pack@autox.team.net>, Truiumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net> Subject: 
[6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild Message-ID: 
<BAY167-W93BA55C8AAEDFDEB4BB30C9FF70@phx.gbl> Content-Type: text/plain; 
charset="us-ascii" Hi List, I'm contemplating rebuilding the engine of 
my 72' TR6 this winter. I am hoping the collective experience of the 
list can give me some guidance as to some of the decisions I'll have to 
make. I'm thinking of getting a cam just a little hotter then stock and 
shaving the head just a bit. I've been very happy with the performance 
of the original ZS carburetors and wonder of they are able to supply the 
increased fuel demands of the new set up. As far as I understand the 
jets are fixed. Speaking of cams, how necessary are cam bearings? Should 
I have them installed while I'm doing the rebuild? The engine runs very 
well, but bit doggie. I don't think that it's ever had any machine shop 
work done. I did a compression test about a year ago. The results were 
low of 85, hight of 120. A leak down test confirmed that almost all the 
lost compression was through the rings. The car burns almost no oil (it 
just leaks out a little) what other components should I replace as a 
matter of course during the rebuild? Anything I should look out for? I 
am long forward to hearing your advice. Take care. Bob

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 11:19:10 2013
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Subject: Re: [6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild
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I'll second that

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [6pack]  72" TR6 Engine Rebuild
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
Date: Nov 4, 2013 10:49 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
CC:

Bob Rochlin wrote:<br/><br/>>I'm contemplating rebuilding the engine of my 72'
TR6.<br/><br/> <br/><br/>Bob - <br/><br/>   As somebody else mentioned, get
the distributor rebuilt/recurved by Jeff<br/>at Advanced Distributors.

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 11:55:52 2013
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 12:51:56 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine Rebuild Guidelines.
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probably a good idea to have the block magnafluxed to look for cracks

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Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine Rebuild Guidelines.
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probably a good idea to have the block magnafluxed to look for cracks

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 17:43:52 2013
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 18:41:37 -0600
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And magnaflux the head, I had started the build on my  "factory experimental 
test head" that I had ported out (really my first experiment with hogging 
out the ports on my head) and when I took it to the machine shop they found 
cracks in a couple places between the exhaust and intake valves, I guess a 
somewhat common occurrence.  Greg Lemon

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
Sent: Monday, November 4, 2013 12:51 PM
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine Rebuild Guidelines.

> probably a good idea to have the block magnafluxed to look for cracks
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  6 00:08:37 2013
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From: Jimandruthhome@aol.com
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Quite a long time ago now, I had what seemed to be a head gasket  failure, 
and may well have been. Whatever the cause, in remedying it my  machinist 
found a crack between exhaust and intake in one combustion  chamber.  The 
valve seats are a little too close together. This  seems to be a fairly common 
problem.  It's fixable with TIG welding  followed by stress relief.  I'm 
still running the same head 30 years  later.
 
Jim Knight, '71 TR6 

I took it to the machine shop they found 
cracks in a couple  places between the exhaust and intake valves, I guess a 
somewhat common  occurrence.  Greg Lemon

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 07:54:38 2013
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From: "James Maddox" <jhmdds@aol.com>
To: "6pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 14:37:12 +0000
	with any abuse report
	sherry@gaarderfamily.com
Subject: [6pack] Hey 6pack!
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     http://herorentcarkediri.com/wp-includes/google.php?vzevnennnd117tttmrsf






































    Fri, 8 Nov 2013 14:37:12
jhmdds
    


 *******************
     

gcc's whole purpose in life is to be fast at the expense of that nice secure feeling cc gives you by being quiet. -- Shawn Knight

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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: James Maddox <jhmdds@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 14:08:05 -0700
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Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hey 6pack!
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Hey you just made it to my junk list.


Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Nov 8, 2013, at 7:37 AM, James Maddox wrote:

>     http://herorentcarkediri.com/wp-includes/google.php?vzevnennnd117tttmrsf
>
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>    Fri, 8 Nov 2013 14:37:12
> jhmdds
>
>
>
> *******************
>
>
> gcc's whole purpose in life is to be fast at the expense of that  
> nice secure feeling cc gives you by being quiet. -- Shawn Knight
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
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	Fri, 8 Nov 2013 14:22:50 -0800
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 17:22:35 -0500
From: Gene Holtzclaw <motrv8d@hotmail.com>
To: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
	FILETIME=[0F76E9D0:01CEDCD1]
Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hey 6pack!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't be too hard on the list, hackers thrive on those of us with no bad
intentions on anyone. I never click on anything that looks like that email
looked.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:

Hey you just made it to my junk list.


Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Nov 8, 2013, at 7:37 AM, James Maddox wrote:

>
http://herorentcarkediri.com/wp-includes/google.php?vzevnennnd117tttmrsf
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>    Fri, 8 Nov 2013 14:37:12
> jhmdds
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> *******************
>
>
> gcc's whole purpose in life is to be fast at the expense of that
> nice secure feeling cc gives you by being quiet. -- Shawn Knight
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi@comcast.net

________________________________________

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 15:26:39 2013
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Received: from nm16-vm6.access.bullet.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
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	zAMsO02kAPFZE3peJqNCzEb1IPyQsqwo3wME9WOn5pfeEdQQkIdRwmGRkjaM
	nRVXCG3SV8pY.I_nyrBSNlMkTMn6_9hztNNYxVVqEvhvmGR0cBHIiBN2vub.
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	AHswivK7rW2Gl5No3NrjqCQzOd3HP_DA032vqqKw4lou879BuB9mkWaRuKkA
	jOZzzDnaHaUEL0qCt4kV5Rb0S9sFMxVKueTc3pXGzEXo298w7dU6XUzBzdoV
	PLEPSSOuLjeESYB_VUH8mx87JtWj2w7bNsHt8myI3qq2zNOxbL0za_3UzjpN
	wvqRzI91y3u42le8n35X3zADrSF91TFYwBIebsLKq3NGbCWS74d00YOD.RRQ
	.z2q7jCLgFjQhgu22YUE-
Received: from [99.173.148.235] by web181406.mail.ne1.yahoo.com via
	HTTP; Fri, 08 Nov 2013 14:24:07 PST
	VGhlIGlzc3VlIGhlcmUgaXMgbm90IHRoYXQgNi1wYWNrIGhhcyBiZWVuIGhhY2tlZDsgaG93ZXZlciwgc29tZW9uZSBoYXMgY29waWVkIGFsbCBvciBwYXJ0IG9mIEphbWVzIE1hZGRveCdzIGFkZHJlc3MgYm9vay4gVGhlIGFkZHJlc3MgYm9vayB3YXMgdGhlbiB1c2VkIHRvIHNlbmQgInF1ZXN0aW9uYWJsZSIgZW1haWxzIHdpdGggYSBsaW5rLCB3aGljaCBtYXkgc2VuZCB5b3UgIi4uLmRvd24gdGhlIGdhcmRlbiBwYXRoLiIKCnRoZSBsaXN0IHRoZW4gd2FzIHB1dCBpbnRvIGEgc3BhbSBmaWx0ZXIgYnkgZWkBMAEBAQE-
References: <20131108145422.245AB4314A@autox.team.net>
	<F81D891D-B600-4A3E-A321-BF8A141851F7@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 14:24:07 -0800 (PST)
From: sullij@att.net
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hey 6pack!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

The issue here is not that 6-pack has been hacked; however, someone has copied
all or part of James Maddox's address book. The address book was then used to
send "questionable" emails with a link, which may send you "...down the garden
path."

the list then was put into a spam filter by either your mail
application, or your ISP.

Correct action to take:

     ***  don't clink on
the link in the email! ***

you then may have to correct your mail filter.

My
2 cents.

John Sullivan






________________________________
 From: Bud R
<levilevi@comcast.net>
To: James Maddox <jhmdds@aol.com> 
Cc: 6pack
<6pack@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, November 8, 2013 4:08 PM
Subject: Re:
[6pack] Hey 6pack!
 

Hey you just made it to my junk list.


Bud Rolofson
Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly
Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Nov 8, 2013, at
7:37 AM, James Maddox wrote:

>   removed
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>    Fri, 8 Nov 2013 14:37:12
> jhmdds
>
>
>
> *******************
>
>
> gcc's whole purpose in life is to be fast at
the expense of that  
> nice secure feeling cc gives you by being quiet. --
Shawn Knight
>
> ________________________________________
>
>
6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi@comcast.net
________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 10:00:59 2013
Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net>
Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net
Received: from 50-198-190-17-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net (localhost [IPv6:::1])
	by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5937640537
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Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net
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	(envelope-from <tr6@lbcs.ca>) id 1VhMkY-002FN1-A5; Fri, 15 Nov 2013
	12:00:06 -0500
From: Dave More <tr6@lbcs.ca>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 10:00:04 -0700
References: <B9B064A0069F47E8B203FD8C7053EC11@mcmasterb0b98c>
To: John McMaster <john.mcmaster@netspeed.com.au>
	with any abuse report
	acl_c_relayhosts_text_entry: -unknown-@lbcs.ca|lbcs.ca
Cc: TR List <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	"<6pack@autox.team.net>" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] RPM VS MPH/KPH CALCULATOR?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

John, here's a link to a tool that allows you to enter pertinent Triumph data
producing the information you're looking for:

http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/gearspeed/

Cheers,
Dave

On Nov 15, 2013, at 2:20 AM, John McMaster <john.mcmaster@netspeed.com.au>
wrote:

> Sorry to trouble you all but a few years back (quite a few in fact) someone
> on the list provided an excel spreadsheet showing MPH/KPH per RPM for a
> given (specified) gear ratio and tyre size.
>
>
>
> Due to a catastrophic hard drive failure I've lost it and would really like
> to re-build my data for the project V6 I'm building.
>
>
>
> If anyone has a copy and they wouldn't mind sharing, could they please
email
> it to me?
>
>
>
> Thanks heaps,
>
>
>
> John Mc
>
> "Fast is First"
>
> 71 TR6 PI
>
> 76 Dolomite 1850
>
> 76 Dolomite Sprint V6
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6@lbcs.ca

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 22:57:47 2013
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Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net
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	for <mharc@autox.team.net>; Fri, 15 Nov 2013 22:57:47 -0700 (MST)
Delivered-To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Received: from mail.netspeed.com.au (mail.netspeed.com.au
	[202.78.47.76]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 9FFD242901;
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Received: from mcmasterb0b98c (unverified [61.69.24.215])  by
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	multiple; Sat, 16 Nov 2013 16:54:04 +1100
From: "John McMaster" <john.mcmaster@netspeed.com.au>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2013 16:52:42 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac7ikBDtFJaofWZTQ5eKU1YVOGKvKg==
Subject: Re: [6pack] RPM VS MPH/KPH CALCULATOR?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all those that provided the spreadsheet I was looking for and
thanks to all for excellent links references to a lot of wonderful
resources!

 

I'm now in a position to be able to work out speed through the tacho before
I can programme my (programmable) speedo.

 

All the best.

 

John Mc

"Fast is First"

71 TR6 PI

76 Dolomite 1850

76 Dolomite Sprint V6

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 15:50:15 2013
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	(cdptpa-outbound-snat.email.rr.com [107.14.166.226]) by autox.team.net
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	17 Nov 2013 22:49:14 +0000
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Glenn Franco" <gaf3@charter.net>, "Friends of triumph"
	<fot@autox.team.net>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <52893ED3.6000906@charter.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2013 16:49:15 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] A-Type O/D Conversion Shift Tower Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I did the same thing a few years ago, the tap I used says M16 x 2, just 
checked it.  Greg Lemon 

________________________________________

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 16:15:22 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2013 17:11:10 -0600
Subject: [6pack] hood (bonnet) latch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

hi, all.

on the highway today these two items separated:  http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
fortunately, the piece in the lower picture was held in by the latch.

can someone please send me a picture of how this is supposed to look.  theres
a piece on the lower picture that looks like it should be attached, or
something.  right now it is floating free.  I have the manual, but Ibd like
to see it in place.

thanks!

and yes, these photos are terrible.  Ibm embarrassed, but I really need to
fix this!

________________________________________

6pack@autox.team.net

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 17:47:36 2013
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Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2013 18:45:30 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Fw: hood (bonnet) latch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

got some pictures, thank you.  any thoughts on how far in to screw it?

From: Dave
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2013 5:11 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: hood (bonnet) latch

hi, all.

on the highway today these two items separated:  http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
fortunately, the piece in the lower picture was held in by the latch.

can someone please send me a picture of how this is supposed to look.  theres
a piece on the lower picture that looks like it should be attached, or
something.  right now it is floating free.  I have the manual, but Ibd like
to see it in place.

thanks!

and yes, these photos are terrible.  Ibm embarrassed, but I really need to
fix this!

________________________________________

6pack@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/mharc@autox.team.net


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 18 08:42:03 2013
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	smtp113.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with SMTP; 18 Nov 2013 07:40:39 -0800
	PST
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 09:40:39 -0600
From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.0
To: 6pack@autox.team.net, "FOT@autox.team.net" <FOT@autox.team.net>
References: <52893ED3.6000906@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] A-Type O/D Conversion Shift Tower Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

The OD rebuild article that Sam Clark and I wrote, shows one way to 
remove the pump. You will find the article on the mainenance page at 
vtr.org. -Larry

On 11/17/2013 4:10 PM, Glenn Franco wrote:
>
> The second issue I'm having is the oil pump plunger refuses to come 
> out of the housing.
> The eccentric on the output shaft was completely worn out. I'm 
> guessing there's an issue there.
> Any suggestions for removal?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 18 15:05:16 2013
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 17:03:50 -0500
From: Glenn Franco <gaf3@charter.net>
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To: Friends of triumph <fot@autox.team.net>,  "6pack@autox.team.net"
	<6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <52893ED3.6000906@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] [Fot] A-Type O/D Conversion Shift Tower Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the suggestions
Problem solved and shift tower drilled and tapped.
Glenn

On 11/17/2013 5:10 PM, Glenn Franco wrote:
> Hi All
>
> I'm converting an early TR6 Trans to Overdrive.
> The issue I'm having is drilling and tapping the shift tower for the 
> lock out switches.
> The installed back up lamp switch has a thread pitch of 2mm per my 
> thread gauge and the O.D. is just shy of 16 mm.
> I'm assuming a 16mm x 2 tap. Is this correct?
>
>
> The second issue I'm having is the oil pump plunger refuses to come 
> out of the housing.
> The eccentric on the output shaft was completely worn out. I'm 
> guessing there's an issue there.
> Any suggestions for removal?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3@charter.net

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 21 21:31:19 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 22:29:53 -0600
Subject: [6pack] heater control valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

was replacing the heater control valve (72 TR6) tonight, and ok  - I will
admit it b I wasnbt paying close enough attention.

apparently the little bolt/nut combination just drop right out when you
arenbt looking.  I found a castle nut on the floor that looks the right size
b is that part of it?  and what I will hope to find in the morning is a bolt
with a hole in it?  that the wire goes through?  a picture would be really
helpful.

the moss motors catalogue and the shop manual I have are no help . . .

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 22 04:47:32 2013
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From: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>, Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2013 11:45:04 +0000
References: <BF9B2D3630FB48C9B2DAAA6EE412D99A@Datsun>
	FILETIME=[494E19B0:01CEE778]
Subject: Re: [6pack] heater control valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

It's a little thingie with a hole thru it on the side, threaded inside, and a
small bolt goes into the end, tightening up on the control wire. When the wire
is out, nothing holds it into the valve lever.
good luck.Sloane :)69 Six, 72 Spit

> From: dave@ranteer.com
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 22:29:53 -0600
> Subject: [6pack] heater control valve
>
> was replacing the heater control valve (72 TR6) tonight, and ok  - I will
> admit it b I wasnbt paying close enough attention.
>
> apparently the little bolt/nut combination just drop right out when you
> arenbt looking.  I found a castle nut on the floor that looks the right
size
> b is that part of it?  and what I will hope to find in the morning is a
bolt
> with a hole in it?  that the wire goes through?  a picture would be really
> helpful.

________________________________________

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 22 06:57:33 2013
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	22 Nov 2013 13:55:50 +0000
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "im sloane" <im_sloane@hotmail.com>, "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>,
	"Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <BF9B2D3630FB48C9B2DAAA6EE412D99A@Datsun>
	<BLU180-W89B763C87D074C306ED678EE00@phx.gbl>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2013 07:55:49 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] heater control valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Mr. Sloane did a pretty good job of describing it, but as they say, a 
picture is worth a thousand words: 
http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/tc/full.aspx?Page=79  items 9 and 
10, don't think your castellated nut was part of the set up, it must have 
fallen off something else.  Greg Lemon

--------------------------------------------------
From: "im sloane" <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 5:45 AM
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>; "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] heater control valve

> It's a little thingie with a hole thru it on the side, threaded inside, 
> and a
> small bolt goes into the end, tightening up on the control wire. When the 
> wire
> is out, nothing holds it into the valve lever.
> good luck.Sloane :)69 Six, 72 Spit
>
>> From: dave@ranteer.com
>> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
>> Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 22:29:53 -0600
>> Subject: [6pack] heater control valve
>>
>> was replacing the heater control valve (72 TR6) tonight, and ok  - I will
>> admit it b I wasnbt paying close enough attention.
>>
>> apparently the little bolt/nut combination just drop right out when you
>> arenbt looking.  I found a castle nut on the floor that looks the right
> size
>> b is that part of it?  and what I will hope to find in the morning is a
> bolt
>> with a hole in it?  that the wire goes through?  a picture would be 
>> really
>> helpful.
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/glemon@neb.rr.com

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 22 07:39:51 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
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References: <BF9B2D3630FB48C9B2DAAA6EE412D99A@Datsun>
	<BLU180-W89B763C87D074C306ED678EE00@phx.gbl>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2013 08:36:47 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] heater control valve
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Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

ok.  thanks.  now I know what to  look for.

From: im sloane
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 5:45 AM
To: Dave ; Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: RE: [6pack] heater control valve

It's a little thingie with a hole thru it on the side, threaded inside, and a
small bolt goes into the end, tightening up on the control wire. When the wire
is out, nothing holds it into the valve lever.

good luck.
Sloane :)
69 Six, 72 Spit

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 23 18:55:41 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2013 19:52:48 -0600
Subject: [6pack] starter issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

car has run fine lately.

today when I turned the key, nothing, then it started.  drive for 15 minutes,
turned the car off.  turned the key, nothing.  numerous times.

power to everything.  no issues there.  lights, etc

seems like starter motor.  could it be connection to solenoid, or something
like that?  checked power to the starter, and its definitely there.

plan to remove starter, have it checked.  good plan?

btw this is a high torque starter.

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 23 19:09:12 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2013 20:07:34 -0600
Subject: [6pack] stag for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I looked at a late 73 stag today in fort worth, texas.

nice one owner car, good shape, no rust, interior good, one crack in dash, 4
speed overdrive, engine supposedly rebuilt before the car was parked in 1988.
car has not moved since.  paint ok, chrome ok.  supposedly lots of extra parts
and all receipts.  I opened the brake and clutch masters, and there was some
fluid

guy is asking $8500.  he spent $6k storing the car while he was overseas.
hebs in no hurry to sell it, and he certainly doesnbt need money.

NFI.  contact me offline if interested.

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 09:35:14 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <232329.1385308983607.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 10:28:18 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] starter issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

that is too funny.  you are absolutely right.  it's cranking again . . . .

I had trouble with it years ago - the back part literally fell out.  maybe 
time to replace the whole thing!!!!!

-----Original Message----- 
From: Robert Perry
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2013 10:03 AM
To: Dave
Subject: Re: [6pack] starter issue

Dave,

Check your ignition switch first.  The brass contacts wear out!  Try 
wiggling and pushing in on the back side of the ignition switch while 
starting.  It will probably start for you!

Regards,

Robert Perry


>car has run fine lately.
>
>today when I turned the key, nothing, then it started.  drive for 15 
>minutes,
>turned the car off.  turned the key, nothing.  numerous times.
>
>power to everything.  no issues there.  lights, etc
>
>seems like starter motor.  could it be connection to solenoid, or something
>like that?  checked power to the starter, and its definitely there.
>
>plan to remove starter, have it checked.  good plan?
>
>btw this is a high torque starter.

________________________________________

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 10:00:32 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 10:59:01 -0600
Subject: [6pack] windshield "chrome"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

the little piece of plastic chrome that covers the joint fell off.  perhaps
because its too short?  (which it is).

where/how do I get a longer piece?

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 10:29:05 2013
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Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 11:27:30 -0600
From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
References: <AED9A968040E4855AF7345B44C549DFE@Datsun>
Subject: Re: [6pack] windshield "chrome"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

The reason it is too short is because the plastic molding shrinks over 
time, so the joint gets wider.  That is what happened to my TR250 over 
the 45 years I've owned it.

On 11/24/2013 10:59 AM, Dave wrote:
> the little piece of plastic chrome that covers the joint fell off.  perhaps
> because its too short?  (which it is).
>
> where/how do I get a longer piece?
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/cartravel@pobox.com

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 10:30:08 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>, "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <AED9A968040E4855AF7345B44C549DFE@Datsun>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 11:28:59 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] windshield "chrome"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the Roadster Factory sells different lengths, maybe Moss, but pretty 
sure it is TRF, the plastic sorround does can shrink over time.

Greg

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 10:55:36 2013
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Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 11:54:00 -0600
From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: 6pack@autox.team.net, "FOT@autox.team.net" <FOT@autox.team.net>
References: <529226F2.7020500@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] A-Type O/D Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Welcome to the club.  You should read the article that Sam Clark and I 
have at http://www.vtr.org/maintain-index.shtml.  We stand it up on the 
tail end so the splines will not move relative to each other.  Another 
tip not in the article is to first do it without springs to get the 
splines lined up.  Then do it with the springs, making sure they are all 
in the right places.  It is still difficult.  Maybe someone else has a 
better way, but this has worked for us (eventually).  Many adapter 
plates have been broken, so be careful.
Larry

On 11/24/2013 10:18 AM, Glenn Franco wrote:
> Hi
> I'm having a $!X?!! of a time installing our rebuild A-type overdrive 
> to our transmissions output shaft.
> Numerous attempts to line up the 2 female splines in the O/D have 
> resulted in zero success.
> Every time I line up the splines they move out of position any time 
> the trans is installed.
> It's hard to line up these splines after the overdrive is assembled 
> and it always moves out of position as soon as it's all put together.
> Now we have a broken adapter plate.
> I do not have a dummy shaft so that is out.
> Any suggestions on a successful procedure?
> Thanks in Advance
> Glenn
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/cartravel@pobox.com

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 11:07:58 2013
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From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 12:06:02 -0600
To: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1385316362;
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Cc: "FOT@autox.team.net" <FOT@autox.team.net>,
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Subject: Re: [6pack] A-Type O/D Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I remember standing unit on the tail end in a five gallon plastic bucket for
assembly.

It stabilized the unit quite nicely.

I don't remember having a difficult time making spline alignment, but I was
either lucky or the bucket made a difference.

Joe A
Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 24, 2013, at 11:54 AM, Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com> wrote:
>
> Welcome to the club.  You should read the article that Sam Clark and I have
at http://www.vtr.org/maintain-index.shtml.  We stand it up on the tail end so
the splines will not move relative to each other.  Another tip not in the
article is to first do it without springs to get the splines lined up.  Then
do it with the springs, making sure they are all in the right places.  It is
still difficult.  Maybe someone else has a better way, but this has worked for
us (eventually).  Many adapter plates have been broken, so be careful.
> Larry
>
>> On 11/24/2013 10:18 AM, Glenn Franco wrote:
>> Hi
>> I'm having a $!X?!! of a time installing our rebuild A-type overdrive to
our transmissions output shaft.
>> Numerous attempts to line up the 2 female splines in the O/D have resulted
in zero success.
>> Every time I line up the splines they move out of position any time the
trans is installed.
>> It's hard to line up these splines after the overdrive is assembled and it
always moves out of position as soon as it's all put together.
>> Now we have a broken adapter plate.
>> I do not have a dummy shaft so that is out.
>> Any suggestions on a successful procedure?
>> Thanks in Advance
>> Glenn
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/cartravel@pobox.com
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4@cs.com

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 12:10:22 2013
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Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 14:00:47 -0500
From: Bob <rpeglow@optonline.net>
To: 'Dave' <dave@ranteer.com>, 'Triumph 6 Pack' <6pack@autox.team.net>
Thread-index: Ac7pNoRzwV57mEpwTxGf+Ap9qMaH0wAEPEgw
References: <AED9A968040E4855AF7345B44C549DFE@Datsun>
Subject: Re: [6pack] windshield "chrome"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

TRF 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2013 11:59 AM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: [6pack] windshield "chrome"

the little piece of plastic chrome that covers the joint fell off.  perhaps
because its too short?  (which it is).

where/how do I get a longer piece?

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 13:35:11 2013
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Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 20:33:34 +0000 (GMT)
From: wcwellbaum@cox.net
To: dave@ranteer.com
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] windshield "chrome"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

The Roadster Factory part # 611437/p--$3.94.  Yes--they shrink.


On Sun, Nov 24, 2013 at 8:59 AM, Dave wrote:

> the little piece of plastic chrome that covers the joint fell off. 
> perhaps
> because its too short?  (which it is).
>
> where/how do I get a longer piece?
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum@cox.net

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 16:36:10 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <232329.1385308983607.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<F810C0285DD140BE9FA05CF25C82FDDD@Datsun>
	<1385331320.15018.YahooMailNeo@web161304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 17:13:51 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] starter issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

its still intermittant.  messed with the switch wiring; was going to remove
the ignition switch but I canbt figure out how. got some things apart, the
switch started working, so I put it all back together and then it didnbt
work.

I did notice that if I removed the wire from the solenoid and bhot wiredb
it, it worked.  then when I put the wire back things worked normally again.
Ibm thinking it may have to do with that wiring.

Ibll check it later tonight to see if its still working  . . . . .

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Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 15:41:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Kirsis <stevekirsis@yahoo.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] starter issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I honestly had the same problem, changed the battery and that was it. Give it
a try before you start spending money. Batteries can be very strange
Steve Kirsis '70 Damson.
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 11/24/13, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [6pack] starter issue
 To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
 Date: Sunday, November 24, 2013, 5:13 PM

 its still intermittant.  messed
 with the switch wiring; was going to remove
 the ignition switch but I canbt figure out how. got some
 things apart, the
 switch started working, so I put it all back together and
 then it didnbt
 work.

 I did notice that if I removed the wire from the solenoid
 and bhot wiredb
 it, it worked.  then when I put the wire back things
 worked normally again.
 Ibm thinking it may have to do with that wiring.

 Ibll check it later tonight to see if its still
 working  . . . . .

 ________________________________________

 6pack@autox.team.net

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 24 18:32:21 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2013 19:26:33 -0600
Subject: [6pack] starter woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I think Ibve figured it out.

of course it started up before dinner, so I took it for a drive.  brought it
home, had dinner, and went back to the garage.  nothing.

so I connected a wire between the positive post and the solenoid.  spark.
thatbs it.  as in little electrical sparks.  no engine movement.

itbs the starter solenoid.

so, my next move, in that actually Ibm pretty good at starter replacement
(donbt even ask), Ibll swap out the high torque one for the original (as
in heavy) one on the shelf I had rebuilt the last time I thought I had starter
issues.  and it should start first time, every time.

or not . . . .

________________________________________

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 06:20:57 2013
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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 08:19:18 -0500 (EST)
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
References: <AED9A968040E4855AF7345B44C549DFE@Datsun>
Cc: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] windshield "chrome"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey,

One "trick" that I haven't seen posted here but I have seen folks do...

pull out a section of the old trim and clip it, then use two of the 
finisher clips to cover the two gaps.

If you have a lot of time / patience you can remove the entire piece and 
then cut it in half and position the trim finishers to the same location 
top and bottom. That way it looks "factory" except for those who know 
better.

But it's a lot easier to just get the new chrome strip and be done with it 
for the next 20 years. :-)

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 12:43:50 2013
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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 11:41:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Yahoo <brucesimms2003@yahoo.ca>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] re;  starter issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I was getting just click-click-click from my 10 year old high torque starter
motor.   Emery clothed all the connections at the starter till metal nice and
shiney.  Problem over.

I must say I torture test the poor starter sometimes
by neglecting to use the choke and it still comes back for more.  That, and
never a hot start issue.  I have the original starter with a now solenoid on
the shelf if needed, but the high torque one is better.

Bruce Simms
73 TR6

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 19:47:16 2013
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	Mon, 25 Nov 2013 21:44:32 -0500 (EST)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 21:45:33 -0500
From: Ed McGuirk <emcguirk@optonline.net>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
Subject: Re: [6pack] windshield "chrome"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I do not think the chrome strip shrinks, it actually relaxes into the 
corners over time causing the gap to expand. You can install a new 
chrome strip and leave the ends overlapping while the chrome strip gets 
used to the new shape or if you decide to cut and reposition the old 
chrome strip so that you can use two evenly spaced trim clips you will 
probably find that the old chrome strip will "shrink" again after a few 
weeks.

________________________________________

6pack@autox.team.net

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 20:04:32 2013
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References: <52940B4D.6000202@optonline.net>
From: David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 22:02:17 -0500
To: Ed McGuirk <emcguirk@optonline.net>
Cc: 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] windshield "chrome"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

My chromed-plastic trim strip now has a gap of almost 3 inches. I installed
it about 5 years ago. That's quite a bit of "shrinkage" wherever that gap
comes from. TRF sell the 611437 chromed "joint clip" in a length of 1-1/2"
or their 611437/175 which is 1-3/4" or 611437/200 which is 2" long. None of
these will cover the gap I now have in my trim strip. They ought to sell
the "joint clip" by the foot or else create the chromed trim strip out of a
plastic that either doesn't shrink or is simply cut several inches longer
than the original 613958 trim strip length....

Dave Friedlander
'74 Six
Maine


On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Ed McGuirk <emcguirk@optonline.net> wrote:

> I do not think the chrome strip shrinks, it actually relaxes into the
> corners over time causing the gap to expand. You can install a new chrome
> strip and leave the ends overlapping while the chrome strip gets used to
> the new shape or if you decide to cut and reposition the old chrome strip
> so that you can use two evenly spaced trim clips you will probably find
> that the old chrome strip will "shrink" again after a few weeks.

________________________________________

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 20:33:15 2013
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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 22:30:33 -0500
From: Gene Holtzclaw <motrv8d@hotmail.com>
To: David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[E3E8EB30:01CEEA57]
Cc: Ed McGuirk <emcguirk@optonline.net>, 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] windshield "chrome"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Did all TR6s come with plastic? I have metal trim, with two metal pieces that
cover the gaps. I bought it years ago, and have just replaced my windshield
and gasket. Been trying to work up the nerve to put this metal one in.
Concerned I'm going to damage it putting it in

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com> wrote:

My chromed-plastic trim strip now has a gap of almost 3 inches. I installed
it about 5 years ago. That's quite a bit of "shrinkage" wherever that gap
comes from. TRF sell the 611437 chromed "joint clip" in a length of 1-1/2"
or their 611437/175 which is 1-3/4" or 611437/200 which is 2" long. None of
these will cover the gap I now have in my trim strip. They ought to sell
the "joint clip" by the foot or else create the chromed trim strip out of a
plastic that either doesn't shrink or is simply cut several inches longer
than the original 613958 trim strip length....

Dave Friedlander
'74 Six
Maine


On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Ed McGuirk <emcguirk@optonline.net> wrote:

> I do not think the chrome strip shrinks, it actually relaxes into the
> corners over time causing the gap to expand. You can install a new chrome
> strip and leave the ends overlapping while the chrome strip gets used to
> the new shape or if you decide to cut and reposition the old chrome strip
> so that you can use two evenly spaced trim clips you will probably find
> that the old chrome strip will "shrink" again after a few weeks.

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 22:20:54 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 23:18:47 -0600
Subject: [6pack] starter relay 72 tr6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

where is it?

thanks!  I donbt see it in the wiring diagram

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 26 10:04:39 2013
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Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 11:02:53 -0600
From: "Lee Daniels" <lee@automate-it.com>
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
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Cc: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] starter relay 72 tr6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

> I don't see it in the wiring diagram

I believe that TR6 prior to '74 did not have a starter relay...

Lee

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Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 14:25:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Dale <tpdwinch@yahoo.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>, Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] starter relay 72 tr6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave
 
The starter relay, if you have one, is on the driver side inner fender
just under the horn relay. On cars with OD, the starter relay was replaced
with the OD relay. So with this in mind it does not seem to be needed.
 
Dale
________________________________
From: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
To: Triumph 6
Pack <6pack@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 12:18 AM
Subject: [6pack] starter relay 72 tr6


where is it?

thanks!  I donbt see it
in the wiring diagram

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 26 17:20:44 2013
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From: James_ TR6 <jattr6@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 00:17:17 +0000
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	FILETIME=[0832EF50:01CEEB06]
Subject: Re: [6pack] windshield "chrome"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I replaced my chrome strip a year or so ago.It is 'easily' fitted by GENTLY
using a big rubber mallet and tap it in inch by inch.but, I too had some
shrinkage. actually, very soon after installing. i even let it sit in the sun
for a day or so before trimming, but clearly the shrinkage took longer to set
in. ugh. huge gap now.
and a word of caution. this strip is needed to help encourage tight fitting of
the much needed gasket.without it, rain will work itself in with ease and
slowly cause damage to the dash. yup, experience talking. and you'll go
bonkers wondering how the damage occurred. until you drive one day during a
light rain and see a tiny bit of water coming in around the glass seal and
dripping behind the dash andgetting absorbed by the beautiful original dash
board. forcing you to buy a new one.but the cause of the leak was not the
missing chrome strip - just exhausted w/s seal. but when i replaced the seal,
i realized i quickly needed to replace the chrome strip to make a tight / snug
fit. or i would have a bigger leakage problem.
my two cents.
-james

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 29 17:11:54 2013
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From: Andrew Packard <apackard68@att.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 16:09:24 -0800
To: fot@autox.team.net, 6 Digest <6pack@autox.team.net>, TTSCC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [6pack] TR250/TR6 pedal box and inner steering column from a
 TR4/TR250/TR6 needed for TR4 Lemons racer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello all,
I'm sending out a broad communication to my car club, Friends of Triumph
racers and the 6-pack group in search of help procuring the two items
mentioned above.

Today allowed for some time to devote to the TR4 Lemons race car project.

We are trying to find a solution for a dual circuit brake system that is cheap
and doesn't require a lot of fabrication.  Since I have a TR250 a few steps
away from the TR4, there is a good comparison for a stock dual circuit system
in a very similar car.  It seems reasonable to us to try and use a TR250/TR6
pedal box assembly with clutch and brake MCs and maybe even the booster in the
TR4.  The bulkhead area is a little different than the TR250, but could easily
be configured for the later pedal box.

The TR4 we bought was a Rotary conversion with a few Mazda parts, including
the steering column.  We have a spare outer column to use, but need the inner
components down to the rack in order to get things fully connected.

The punchline of this email is that we need a complete TR250/TR6 pedal box and
the inner steering column from a TR4/TR250/TR6.

We have a limited budget to spend if you are willing to sell either of these
items.  If you have them just lying around and want to help get the first TR4
to ever appear in the 24 hours of Lemons closer to racing, donations are
definitely accepted.  I'm in the Bay Area of California and would be willing
to pay shipping on any donations.  Please contact me directly at
apackard68@att.net if you are able to help in anyway.

Andy Packard
President, Triumph Travelers
24 hours of Lemons racer in the Killer Zombee (as in MGB) -- Trying to get out
there in a Triumph!
925 577-7704

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