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From: Ashford Little <ralittle2@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 17:18:57 -0400
To: 6-Pack Email List <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] 2014 TRials make the front page at Ole Miss
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The official Ole Miss photographer, Robert Jordan, showed up for the Trials
and they made the front page of the Ole Miss website.  It scrolls through
several stories, but we are number 1.  It wont be up there long, but its a
neat shot.

www.olemiss.edu

Ashford Little
ralittle2@mac.com
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 18 18:36:11 2014
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From: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 00:39:18 +0000
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Subject: [6pack] Engine guys?
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Hey engine guys,
Having problems on the bearings on my Spit. Did the rod bearings a few months
ago, now doing the 3 mains. All of the bearing caps were real tight, but I got
them off, 1 at a time, and finally got the rear and middle done. Having a heck
it a time with the front. Every time I snug up the bolts at all, no torque, it
binds the crankshaft. I've taken it back off a dozen times. The top bearing on
the front was very tight, didn't slide easily around the shaft, but did't take
too much force to push it around. What am I missing?
thanks for any help,
Sloane
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 00:34:45 2014
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 6:32:36 +0000
From: <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>,  im sloane
 <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
 Oct 2014 6:32:36 +0000
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine guys?
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Aloha Sloan,

  I did the same thing to my TR6 engine a few years ago (rods then mains later).  I had a hard time getting the front upper main out, and had to loosen up the other mains to let the crank down a bit to get it out.  I had a hard time getting a new one back in, at least not with what seemed to be goodly force.  I don't recall if there was rotation binding, but I know I ended up putting the old upper bearing back in.  Overall, OP came up by ~10 PSI cold and 5 hot. 

  The front mains were noticeably less worn (no copper showing!) than the others. Maybe the front runs more 'true' and has less wear than the rear.  So FWIW, reusing that bearing shell could be an option.  Maybe one of our real wrenches can explain.  

Jeff
74.5 TR6 


---- im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com> wrote: 
> Hey engine guys,
> Having problems on the bearings on my Spit. Did the rod bearings a few months
> ago, now doing the 3 mains. All of the bearing caps were real tight, but I got
> them off, 1 at a time, and finally got the rear and middle done. Having a heck
> it a time with the front. Every time I snug up the bolts at all, no torque, it
> binds the crankshaft. I've taken it back off a dozen times. The top bearing on
> the front was very tight, didn't slide easily around the shaft, but did't take
> too much force to push it around. What am I missing?
> thanks for any help,
> Sloane
> _______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 15:56:07 2014
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 17:58:45 -0400
From: Glenn Franco <gaf3@charter.net>
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Subject: [6pack] Engine guys.
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On 10/19/2014 2:00 PM, 6pack-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Engine guys?
Are you sure you have the main caps on the correct way and not 
backwards. That's the fastest way to bind up the crank.
Also do you check your main bearing clearances with plasti-gauge?
Did you have the crank turned??
I have been building engines for years and I always start with the 
mains. Make sure you can turn the crank with your hand then proceed to 
the rods.
Glenn
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 16:25:35 2014
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 18:28:10 -0400
From: Gene Holtzclaw <motrv8d@hotmail.com>
To: Glenn Franco <gaf3@charter.net>
 FILETIME=[FF8D0E70:01CFEBEB]
Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine guys.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

It sounds also possible you have bearings for a crank that has been turned,
say .010,maybe .020, but you have a standard crank.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Glenn Franco <gaf3@charter.net> wrote:

On 10/19/2014 2:00 PM, 6pack-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Engine guys?
Are you sure you have the main caps on the correct way and not
backwards. That's the fastest way to bind up the crank.
Also do you check your main bearing clearances with plasti-gauge?
Did you have the crank turned??
I have been building engines for years and I always start with the
mains. Make sure you can turn the crank with your hand then proceed to
the rods.
Glenn
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 21 10:38:05 2014
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Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 11:40:37 -0500
From: Irv Korey <emanteno@comcast.net>
To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] 2015 VTR National Convention
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

            The Illinois Sports Owners Association is pleased to announce
that it will host the 2015 Vintage Triumph Register National convention at
the Abbey Resort and Conference Center in Fontana, Wisconsin, from Tuesday,
August 11, through Friday, August 15, 2015. The site is on the shore of
Geneva Lake in scenic southeastern Wisconsin, located in the rolling
countryside approximately one hour from the Northwest suburbs of Chicago.
The 2015 convention will include such driving events as a gimmick rally,
TSD rally, self-guided touring, a breakfast run, an ice cream run, a
funkhana, and an autocross. There will also be several clinics, a private
guided tour of nearby Mecum Auto Auctions, a welcome party with musical
entertainment by the Spinal Tappets [ISOA's house band known for their
parody rock classics with a distinctive Triumph slant] and, of course the
participants choice and concours car shows. We've also arranged for a
"name-the-parts" scavenger hunt/pub crawl, a parts auction, and an
excursion boat ride of Geneva Lake.

                Our guest of honor will be Kas Kastner, the engineering
mastermind who led the North American Triumph Competition Department to
racing victories during the glory days. As a special added attraction, TS1
LO, the first production Triumph TR will be on display at the convention,
along with LD 2, the first left-hand drive production Triumph Stag. Mark
Macy, the proprietor of Macy's Garage, will be on hand to speak about TS1
and Joe Pawlak, who spearheaded the TTA charity project a few years ago,
will speak about the LD2 Stag. There will also be additional clinics on wet
liner oil pumps, transmissions, as well as a few other topics still under
consideration.

                We have arranged for a significant discount on room rates
at the Abbey for the nights of the 11 through the 15th. To receive the
preferred rate you must call  the resort (262/275 b 9000) and explain to
the operator that you want the Vintage Triumph Register rate.

                The convention website [www.VTR2015.com] is now up and
operative. The website contains a video taken at the Abbey and the
surrounding countryside which gives a nice perspective of the area, along
with information about local attractions, regalia, and articles on the 2015
featured models-the TR4A and Spitfire Mark II-both of which will celebrate
their 50th anniversary next year. There is also a brief biography of Kas
reprinted with permission from Moss Motors, and information on our tech
presenters.

                VTR members may register online and pay via PayPal. If you
prefer, you may print out a registration form PDF and mail it along with
the check to the registrar. You will need to know your VTR membership
number and car's commission number to complete the registration. At this
time, non-VTR members will have to print the registration form and mail it
to the registrar - we're working on a way to allow on-line registration for
non-members and hope to a have on-line capability for them soon. VTR
members who choose to register online and use PayPal, will receive an
immediate confirmation from the convention treasurer stating the total
amount their PayPal account has been debited. This will include the
registration fee plus any regalia or optional activities they have elected
to purchase. If you wish to receive the early registration discount, you
must register no later than June 15, 2015. After your registration is
processed [3-4 days], the convention registrar will provide you with an
itemized list that details your expenses. Mail-in registrations may take a
bit longer.

                The website also contains a list of contacts, including
phone numbers and web addresses for local attractions, the registrar, the
treasurer, and the convention co-chairs.

                This will be the sixth VTR convention hosted by ISOA and we
hope that our experience from previous events will enable us to provide you
with an excellent experience at the 2015 VTR convention. We are looking
forward to seeing a large contingent of Triumph enthusiasts next summer and
hope that you come away with pleasant memories of a great time.



Please feel free to respond to me with any questions or concerns off list
if I can be of any assistance.

Best regards,

Bob Streepy 2015 VTR Convention Co-Chair

trstreep@sbcglobal.net  630/263-7565 cell


Irv Korey

VTR Convention lackey

74 TR6 CF22767U

Highland Park, IL
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 26 20:30:01 2014
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From: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 02:03:41 +0000
References: <SNT146-W36539A68D31BADBB9574F08E960@phx.gbl>
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine guys?
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Hi guys, Need to post the final solution, but it ain't pretty. One thing
learned was that the bearing caps can go on the wrong way. I don't think the
internet instructions I was following mentioned that at all. However, I began
to realize that the top front bearing must be the problem. I thought I'd take
it back out and see if I could get it in right. Well, getting it out was
harder than expected, and basically had to destroy it with vice grips to ever
get it out. Ordered new set and tried to be more careful on the top one. Had a
lot of trouble getting it in the last quarter inch. I doubt I had the first
one 100% in all the way. The other two had popped in so easy, I just never
noticed the last one wasn't going all the way in. Then (of course) I put the
cap on backwards the first try, screamed some bad words, took it back off and
tried it the other way and finally I could tighten it up without binding the
crank.
This all was a low-tech attempt raising hot oil pressure. So I've done all the
bearings. No I didn't use any Plasti-gauge, just replaced them with new STD
bearings and hoped for some improvement. I think it's a little bit improved,
but not what I hoped for. I've got about 50lbs on startup, but when it's hot
about 25, and drops to about 5 at idle. However it will build back up to 25 at
speed, and I don't think it would do that before. Took it on a 200 mile trip
today, and nothing fell apart.
Does the good 50 lbs at startup indicate the pump is OK, or should I try
replacing the pump? I'm getting pretty good at taking the pan off and on,
except for that ONE DARN BOLT! (haha - you know the one!)
thanks for any advice,Sloane 72 Spit - this project69 Six


      On Saturday, October 18, 2014 5:39 PM, im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
wrote:      Hey engine guys,Having problems on the bearings on my Spit. Did
the rod bearings a few monthsago, now doing the 3 mains. All of the bearing
caps were real tight, but I gotthem off, 1 at a time, and finally got the rear
and middle done. Having a heckit a time with the front. Every time I snug up
the bolts at all, no torque, itbinds the crankshaft. I've taken it back off a
dozen times. The top bearing onthe front was very tight, didn't slide easily
around the shaft, but did't taketoo
 much force to push it around. What am I
missing?thanks for any
 help,Sloane
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 07:13:10 2014
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From: David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 08:47:39 -0400
To: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine guys?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Sloane;

Done a compression test on each cylinder. I rebuilt my engine last fall
and, among many other things, replaced the piston rings. Now, my oil
pressure doesn't drop BELOW 50psi.

Dave
'74 Six


On Sun, Oct 26, 2014 at 10:03 PM, im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hi guys, Need to post the final solution, but it ain't pretty. One thing
> learned was that the bearing caps can go on the wrong way. I don't think
> the
> internet instructions I was following mentioned that at all. However, I
> began
> to realize that the top front bearing must be the problem. I thought I'd
> take
> it back out and see if I could get it in right. Well, getting it out was
> harder than expected, and basically had to destroy it with vice grips to
> ever
> get it out. Ordered new set and tried to be more careful on the top one.
> Had a
> lot of trouble getting it in the last quarter inch. I doubt I had the first
> one 100% in all the way. The other two had popped in so easy, I just never
> noticed the last one wasn't going all the way in. Then (of course) I put
> the
> cap on backwards the first try, screamed some bad words, took it back off
> and
> tried it the other way and finally I could tighten it up without binding
> the
> crank.
> This all was a low-tech attempt raising hot oil pressure. So I've done all
> the
> bearings. No I didn't use any Plasti-gauge, just replaced them with new STD
> bearings and hoped for some improvement. I think it's a little bit
> improved,
> but not what I hoped for. I've got about 50lbs on startup, but when it's
> hot
> about 25, and drops to about 5 at idle. However it will build back up to
> 25 at
> speed, and I don't think it would do that before. Took it on a 200 mile
> trip
> today, and nothing fell apart.
> Does the good 50 lbs at startup indicate the pump is OK, or should I try
> replacing the pump? I'm getting pretty good at taking the pan off and on,
> except for that ONE DARN BOLT! (haha - you know the one!)
> thanks for any advice,Sloane 72 Spit - this project69 Six
>
>
>       On Saturday, October 18, 2014 5:39 PM, im sloane <
> im_sloane@hotmail.com>
> wrote:      Hey engine guys,Having problems on the bearings on my Spit. Did
> the rod bearings a few monthsago, now doing the 3 mains. All of the bearing
> caps were real tight, but I gotthem off, 1 at a time, and finally got the
> rear
> and middle done. Having a heckit a time with the front. Every time I snug
> up
> the bolts at all, no torque, itbinds the crankshaft. I've taken it back
> off a
> dozen times. The top bearing onthe front was very tight, didn't slide
> easily
> around the shaft, but did't taketoo
>  much force to push it around. What am I
> missing?thanks for any
>  help,Sloane
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 08:14:21 2014
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "im sloane" <im_sloane@hotmail.com>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <SNT146-W36539A68D31BADBB9574F08E960@phx.gbl>
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Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 08:53:04 -0500
Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine guys?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I have not followed everything you have done to the motor, but if the goal 
is to increase oil pressure on a worn engine you might also try replacing 
the the rocker shaft if worn, as you can lose pressure there too.  I have 
also gotten a few extra pounds out of worn pumps by very gently sanding the 
body down on a flat surface to decrease end float.  There is some 
informaiton on the web about this. 
http://www.automedia.com/Oil_Pump_Restoration/res20010701op/1   Good luck, 
Greg Lemon, 68 TR250

--------------------------------------------------
From: "im sloane" <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2014 9:03 PM
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine guys?

> Hi guys, Need to post the final solution, but it ain't pretty. One thing
> learned was that the bearing caps can go on the wrong way. I don't think 
> the
> internet instructions I was following mentioned that at all. However, I 
> began
> to realize that the top front bearing must be the problem. I thought I'd 
> take
> it back out and see if I could get it in right. Well, getting it out was
> harder than expected, and basically had to destroy it with vice grips to 
> ever
> get it out. Ordered new set and tried to be more careful on the top one. 
> Had a
> lot of trouble getting it in the last quarter inch. I doubt I had the 
> first
> one 100% in all the way. The other two had popped in so easy, I just never
> noticed the last one wasn't going all the way in. Then (of course) I put 
> the
> cap on backwards the first try, screamed some bad words, took it back off 
> and
> tried it the other way and finally I could tighten it up without binding 
> the
> crank.
> This all was a low-tech attempt raising hot oil pressure. So I've done all 
> the
> bearings. No I didn't use any Plasti-gauge, just replaced them with new 
> STD
> bearings and hoped for some improvement. I think it's a little bit 
> improved,
> but not what I hoped for. I've got about 50lbs on startup, but when it's 
> hot
> about 25, and drops to about 5 at idle. However it will build back up to 
> 25 at
> speed, and I don't think it would do that before. Took it on a 200 mile 
> trip
> today, and nothing fell apart.
> Does the good 50 lbs at startup indicate the pump is OK, or should I try
> replacing the pump? I'm getting pretty good at taking the pan off and on,
> except for that ONE DARN BOLT! (haha - you know the one!)
> thanks for any advice,Sloane 72 Spit - this project69 Six
>
>
>      On Saturday, October 18, 2014 5:39 PM, im sloane 
> <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
> wrote:      Hey engine guys,Having problems on the bearings on my Spit. 
> Did
> the rod bearings a few monthsago, now doing the 3 mains. All of the 
> bearing
> caps were real tight, but I gotthem off, 1 at a time, and finally got the 
> rear
> and middle done. Having a heckit a time with the front. Every time I snug 
> up
> the bolts at all, no torque, itbinds the crankshaft. I've taken it back 
> off a
> dozen times. The top bearing onthe front was very tight, didn't slide 
> easily
> around the shaft, but did't taketoo
> much force to push it around. What am I
> missing?thanks for any
> help,Sloane
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/glemon@neb.rr.com
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 08:59:42 2014
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Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 14:35:27 +0000 (UTC)
From: Jim Jones <jimjcmo@yahoo.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] parts available
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello all,
I had a very nice TR6 until a few years ago when illness in my family led me
to sell it to a good home. I've still been monitoring this list as the
discussions are interesting and not without a bit of humor.
While I had my car I accumulated a panoply of parts that I would like to see
to go to the best people in the world; 6-Pack enthusiasts. I am not looking to
turn a profit. In most cases I would offer them for the cost of shipping.
Would it be breaking etiquette to offer these items to the list?B Jim Jones
Jefferson City, MO
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 14:59:54 2014
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Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 20:40:03 +0000 (UTC)
From: Steve Kirsis <stevekirsis@yahoo.com>
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys and Gals, just noticed a definite hissing sound coming from the direction of my brake pedal when they are applied. I am very familiar with the system but not the cures. Any help with the checklist would be appreciated. It is a very original '70 TR6. Definitely an air leak sound. Continuous as the brakes are applied and stops when the brakes are released.Steve Kirsis
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 15:00:14 2014
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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Jim Jones <jimjcmo@yahoo.com>,  "6pack@autox.team.net"
 <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <216942152.520382.1414420527199.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10601.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] parts available
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> Would it be breaking etiquette to offer these items to the list?B Jim Jones

Not at all. What is frowned upon is commercial enterprises using the lists for free
advertising.

Of course, you do realize that a healthy percentage of the proceeds needs to go the
Team.Net Paypal account :-)  Seriously, that has happened in the past. Not a healthy
percentage of course, but a few dollars have come in when a big sale was made possible
through the lists. I always appreciate support.

But if you are "selling" parts for shipping costs only, that is sufficient support
of this community. Good luck!

mjb.
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From: "fivefreyers@juno.com" <fivefreyers@juno.com>
Full-Name: "fivefreyers@juno.com" <fivefreyers@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 00:55:58 GMT
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Booster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd be interested in the answer to this. I have the same symptoms - a bit
disappointing since I had my brake booster replaced about a year ago. I'm
"losing" just a bit of brake fluid.... hmmmm, I am curious about where it
might be. None running down the inside of the firewall. Bret Freyer'74 Mimosa
TR6

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Steve Kirsis <stevekirsis@yahoo.com>
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 20:40:03 +0000 (UTC)

Hi Guys and Gals, just noticed a definite hissing sound coming from the
direction of my brake pedal when they are applied. I am very familiar with the
system but not the cures. Any help with the checklist would be appreciated. It
is a very original '70 TR6. Definitely an air leak sound. Continuous as the
brakes are applied and stops when the brakes are released.Steve Kirsis
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/fivefreyers@juno.com
____________________________________________________________
Odd Trick Fights Diabetes
&#34;Unique&#34; Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch
Video.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/544ee9d7733e469d7062dst03duc
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 19:49:29 2014
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Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 21:28:42 -0400
From: Gene Holtzclaw <motrv8d@hotmail.com>
To: <fivefreyers@juno.com>
 FILETIME=[8B71B6D0:01CFF24E]
Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Booster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

It wouldn't explain brake loss, but I had the check valve go bad once. The
brakes would hiss when I applied brakes, but stop when I let off. I determined
the hiss was vacuum being applied, but stopped once engine vacuum was reached.
I had very little reserve braking however, since the vacuum booster couldn't
hold a reserve of vacuum due to a bad check valve

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

fivefreyers@juno.com wrote:

I'd be interested in the answer to this. I have the same symptoms - a bit
disappointing since I had my brake booster replaced about a year ago. I'm
"losing" just a bit of brake fluid.... hmmmm, I am curious about where it
might be. None running down the inside of the firewall. Bret Freyer'74 Mimosa
TR6

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Steve Kirsis <stevekirsis@yahoo.com>
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 20:40:03 +0000 (UTC)

Hi Guys and Gals, just noticed a definite hissing sound coming from the
direction of my brake pedal when they are applied. I am very familiar with
the
system but not the cures. Any help with the checklist would be appreciated.
It
is a very original '70 TR6. Definitely an air leak sound. Continuous as the
brakes are applied and stops when the brakes are released.Steve Kirsis
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/fivefreyers@juno.com
____________________________________________________________
Odd Trick Fights Diabetes
&#34;Unique&#34; Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch
Video.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/544ee9d7733e469d7062dst03duc
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/motrv8d@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 20:18:43 2014
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Received: by 216.39.60.197; Tue, 28 Oct 2014 02:03:08 +0000 
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 02:03:08 +0000 (UTC)
From: Steve Kirsis <stevekirsis@yahoo.com>
To: Gene Holtzclaw <motrv8d@hotmail.com>,  "fivefreyers@juno.com"
 <fivefreyers@juno.com>
References: <SNT405-EAS406A0058FDDC5FB4946A425E19F0@phx.gbl>
Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Booster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Gene, no brake fluid loss at all. Brakes are working OK.B Steve Kirsis

     On Monday, October 27, 2014 9:52 PM, Gene Holtzclaw <motrv8d@hotmail.com>
wrote:


 It wouldn't explain brake loss, but I had the check valve go bad once. The
brakes would hiss when I applied brakes, but stop when I let off. I
determined
the hiss was vacuum being applied, but stopped once engine vacuum was
reached.
I had very little reserve braking however, since the vacuum booster couldn't
hold a reserve of vacuum due to a bad check valve

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

fivefreyers@juno.com wrote:

I'd be interested in the answer to this. I have the same symptoms - a bit
disappointing since I had my brake booster replaced about a year ago. I'm
"losing" just a bit of brake fluid.... hmmmm, I am curious about where it
might be. None running down the inside of the firewall. Bret Freyer'74 Mimosa
TR6

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Steve Kirsis <stevekirsis@yahoo.com>
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 20:40:03 +0000 (UTC)

Hi Guys and Gals, just noticed a definite hissing sound coming from the
direction of my brake pedal when they are applied. I am very familiar with
the
system but not the cures. Any help with the checklist would be appreciated.
It
is a very original '70 TR6. Definitely an air leak sound. Continuous as the
brakes are applied and stops when the brakes are released.Steve Kirsis
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/fivefreyers@juno.com
____________________________________________________________
Odd Trick Fights Diabetes
"Unique" Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch
Video.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/544ee9d7733e469d7062dst03duc
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/motrv8d@hotmail.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/stevekirsis@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 20:34:20 2014
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Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 02:06:54 +0000 (UTC)
From: Steve Kirsis <stevekirsis@yahoo.com>
To: Gene Holtzclaw <motrv8d@hotmail.com>,  "fivefreyers@juno.com"
 <fivefreyers@juno.com>
References: <SNT405-EAS406A0058FDDC5FB4946A425E19F0@phx.gbl>
 <355712748.495507.1414461788403.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10726.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Booster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I will check out the brake check valve tomorrow in Bentley's. Hopefully it is
an easy fix. First problem with the 6 in a couple of years. ThanksSteve Kirsis

     On Monday, October 27, 2014 10:03 PM, Steve Kirsis
<stevekirsis@yahoo.com> wrote:


 Gene, no brake fluid loss at all. Brakes are working OK.B Steve Kirsis

     On Monday, October 27, 2014 9:52 PM, Gene Holtzclaw <motrv8d@hotmail.com>
wrote:


 It wouldn't explain brake loss, but I had the check valve go bad once. The
brakes would hiss when I applied brakes, but stop when I let off. I
determined
the hiss was vacuum being applied, but stopped once engine vacuum was
reached.
I had very little reserve braking however, since the vacuum booster couldn't
hold a reserve of vacuum due to a bad check valve

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

fivefreyers@juno.com wrote:

I'd be interested in the answer to this. I have the same symptoms - a bit
disappointing since I had my brake booster replaced about a year ago. I'm
"losing" just a bit of brake fluid.... hmmmm, I am curious about where it
might be. None running down the inside of the firewall. Bret Freyer'74 Mimosa
TR6

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Steve Kirsis <stevekirsis@yahoo.com>
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 20:40:03 +0000 (UTC)

Hi Guys and Gals, just noticed a definite hissing sound coming from the
direction of my brake pedal when they are applied. I am very familiar with
the
system but not the cures. Any help with the checklist would be appreciated.
It
is a very original '70 TR6. Definitely an air leak sound. Continuous as the
brakes are applied and stops when the brakes are released.Steve Kirsis
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/fivefreyers@juno.com
____________________________________________________________
Odd Trick Fights Diabetes
"Unique" Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch
Video.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/544ee9d7733e469d7062dst03duc
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/motrv8d@hotmail.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/stevekirsis@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 28 14:03:39 2014
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Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 13:02:42 -0700
From: Yahoo <brucesimms2003@yahoo.ca>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Sloane's oil pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

My cold start up pressure is  80- 85 lbs when she roars to life.   Same as when I bought my 6 17 years ago.   Hot 900 rpm idle is 20-25.   I did the oil pump blueprint a few years ago when I had the pan off to install steel sealing block, fix a leak and clean out gunk at bottom of pan.  Smoothing out the oil pump body gave me 5-10 lbs at start-up.   Other then that and new thrust washers, no bottom end work by me.   I use STP at every oil change, which is every fall nowadays.
I think my pressure is quite acceptable, but not perfect.   Power is very good.
Cheers,  Bruce Simms
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 28 15:47:43 2014
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Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 14:45:02 -0700
From: John Cyganowski <janah@att.net>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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The vanishing brake fluid is likely to be leaking past your master cinder seals and winding up inside your brake booster. If the booster seals haven&#39;t failed (they wl eventually) the booster will fill to the point where the fluid is sucked into the intake manifold through the brake booster vacuum line. Then when the booster seals fail fluid will drip on to your shoe (and eat the paint off if you are wearing sneakers).

You can buy a rebuilt booster or have it rebuilt by Brake Parts and Materials. It doesn&#39;t cost much and they can replace the parts that arent available to the general public.

Generally you are better off buying a new master cylinder. I can&#39;t get into why shouldn&#39;t try to rebuild it yourself here. Try to get an original OEM cylinder as the Asian aftermarket ones don&#39;t have a good track record. 

Best of luck
John Cyg
70 Damson
CC52927LO
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 12:46:54 2014
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From: Barry Young <racermanscca@hotmail.com>
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Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 18:43:15 +0000
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Sent from Windows Mail





From: 6pack-request@autox.team.net
Sent: bWednesdayb, bOctoberb b29b, b2014 b2b:b04b bPM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net





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Today's Topics:

   1. Sloane's oil pressure (Yahoo)
   2. Brake Booster (John Cyganowski)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 13:02:42 -0700
From: Yahoo <brucesimms2003@yahoo.ca>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Sloane's oil pressure
Message-ID:
        <1414526562.75922.YahooMailNeo@web162305.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

My cold start up pressure is  80- 85 lbs when she roars to life.   Same as when I bought my 6 17 years ago.   Hot 900 rpm idle is 20-25.   I did the oil pump blueprint a few years ago when I had the pan off to install steel sealing block, fix a leak and clean out gunk at bottom of pan.  Smoothing out the oil pump body gave me 5-10 lbs at start-up.   Other then that and new thrust washers, no bottom end work by me.   I use STP at every oil change, which is every fall nowadays.
I think my pressure is quite acceptable, but not perfect.   Power is very good.
Cheers,  Bruce Simms


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 14:45:02 -0700
From: John Cyganowski <janah@att.net>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster
Message-ID:
        <1414532702.56281.YahooMailMobile@web185402.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

The vanishing brake fluid is likely to be leaking past your master cinder seals and winding up inside your brake booster. If the booster seals haven&#39;t failed (they wl eventually) the booster will fill to the point where the fluid is sucked into the intake manifold through the brake booster vacuum line. Then when the booster seals fail fluid will drip on to your shoe (and eat the paint off if you are wearing sneakers).

You can buy a rebuilt booster or have it rebuilt by Brake Parts and Materials. It doesn&#39;t cost much and they can replace the parts that arent available to the general public.

Generally you are better off buying a new master cylinder. I can&#39;t get into why shouldn&#39;t try to rebuild it yourself here. Try to get an original OEM cylinder as the Asian aftermarket ones don&#39;t have a good track record. 

Best of luck
John Cyg
70 Damson
CC52927LO


------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

_______________________________________________
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6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


------------------------------

End of 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 7
***********************************
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 14:40:15 2014
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From: guillermo gonzalez <lexgonz@hotmail.com>
To: <stevekirsis@yahoo.com>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 16:43:30 -0400
References: <463451547.465052.1414442403781.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10719.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Booster
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Anybody need wire harness for tr6?

> Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 20:40:03 +0000
> From: stevekirsis@yahoo.com
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster
>
> Hi Guys and Gals, just noticed a definite hissing sound coming from the
direction of my brake pedal when they are applied. I am very familiar with the
system but not the cures. Any help with the checklist would be appreciated. It
is a very original '70 TR6. Definitely an air leak sound. Continuous as the
brakes are applied and stops when the brakes are released.Steve Kirsis
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 17:02:26 2014
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From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" <triosan@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 16:00:16 -0700
To: Friends <fot@autox.team.net>, Triumph <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] TR6 short snout Fidanza Flywheel available
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I thought I would alert both groups before going the eBay route.  This is a
somewhat used but very usable flywheel.  It has been modified so it can
take a 7.5 inch Tilton or QuartMaster clutch.  The ring gear is in good
shape.  I had it machined so the holes for the bolts to the crankshaft
could be fitted with steel inserts thus keeping the holes from elongating.
I have included a clutch face ring machined for the 7.5 clutch as well as a
new stock ring.

Will sell fro $200 plus shipping.

Pictures are available at :

https://plus.google.com/photos/103241823961257430252/albums/6075757007748907905?authkey=COiPqJ3YmtCh0gE

Chuck Arnold
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 30 07:20:05 2014
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2014 09:22:16 -0400
From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Booster
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Hi List. You can also buy a rebuilt booster from us. $125 exchange. End 
of commercial. Ted


On 10/28/2014 5:45 PM, John Cyganowski wrote:
> The vanishing brake fluid is likely to be leaking past your master cinder seals and winding up inside your brake booster. If the booster seals haven&#39;t failed (they wl eventually) the booster will fill to the point where the fluid is sucked into the intake manifold through the brake booster vacuum line. Then when the booster seals fail fluid will drip on to your shoe (and eat the paint off if you are wearing sneakers).
>
> You can buy a rebuilt booster or have it rebuilt by Brake Parts and Materials. It doesn&#39;t cost much and they can replace the parts that arent available to the general public.
>
> Generally you are better off buying a new master cylinder. I can&#39;t get into why shouldn&#39;t try to rebuild it yourself here. Try to get an original OEM cylinder as the Asian aftermarket ones don&#39;t have a good track record.
>
> Best of luck
> John Cyg
> 70 Damson
> CC52927LO
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tedtsimx@bright.net
>
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx@bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2014 10:37:33 -0700
From: Yahoo <brucesimms2003@yahoo.ca>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Starting Issue Solved
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Was getting click-click from gear reduction starter sometimes with fully charged battery.  Headlights dimmed when you cranked.  Positive terminal looked shabby so replaced it and thought problem solved.   No-so.    Replaced positive cable with Taiwan made repro from roadster factory and shimmed positive post for tight fit..   All appears to be good.     Old cable is LUCAS and likely original.

I think these gear reduction starters are Hitachi, so likely could be rebuilt by local auto electric shop if needed.

Bruce Simms
73 TR6
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2014 16:49:34 -0400
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Starting Issue Solved
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Our starters are Denso.  Ted


On 10/31/2014 1:37 PM, Yahoo wrote:
> Was getting click-click from gear reduction starter sometimes with fully charged battery.  Headlights dimmed when you cranked.  Positive terminal looked shabby so replaced it and thought problem solved.   No-so.    Replaced positive cable with Taiwan made repro from roadster factory and shimmed positive post for tight fit..   All appears to be good.     Old cable is LUCAS and likely original.
>
> I think these gear reduction starters are Hitachi, so likely could be rebuilt by local auto electric shop if needed.
>
> Bruce Simms
> 73 TR6
> _______________________________________________
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>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx@bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022
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