From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  6 15:48:01 2014
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2014 14:30:07 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[38BDE1F0:01CFFA11]
Subject: [6pack] Part needed: door switch
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I need an original black pin door switch that has two connectors for the wires. It is used for the buzzer on a 76 tr6. 
Anyone have one or suggestions where I could find one?
I emailed a couple parts places and never heard back...maybe a phone call would work better. 

Thanks!
James

bSent from my Atari 2600b
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  6 18:19:53 2014
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2014 17:05:10 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Part needed: door switch
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I would need an original one and very doubtful I can find a N.O.S one.
And the ones re-manufactured are not correct in many ways. One being that they do not have two connectors. 

I thought I had a used on in my parts bin but I guess I dreamt that. 


bSent from my Atari 2600b

> On Nov 6, 2014, at 2:51 PM, "James_" <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I need an original black pin door switch that has two connectors for the wires. It is used for the buzzer on a 76 tr6. 
> Anyone have one or suggestions where I could find one?
> I emailed a couple parts places and never heard back...maybe a phone call would work better. 
> 
> Thanks!
> James
> 
> bSent from my Atari 2600b
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  8 13:08:09 2014
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Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2014 12:49:21 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>, Triumph <6pack@autox.team.net>, 
 Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Team.Net status
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While mucking about with the server last night I shook loose a few thousand mailman admin
messages that had gotten stuck in limbo. What fun. Most of them are of no consequence, but
there are some legitimate requests for assistance with list issues from subscribers.

So if you sent in something to mailman@... and never heard back from me, well, be patient,
it will take me a while to get through it all.

And I think the reason the messages were held back was due to a typo I made in a configuration
file. With mistakes like that, no wonder I haven't gotten a raise in years ;-)

mjb.
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 05:50:57 2014
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From: "mjmullin@juno.com" <mjmullin@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mjmullin@juno.com" <mjmullin@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 12:51:33 GMT
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Parts Wanted: SU Float Bowls
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Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I was wondering if anyone out there had two SU HS6 float bowls (part number
AUD 2140) that they are willing to part with?  Joe Curto says he thinks that
they were used on Spitfires and MGCs.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Matt
____________________________________________________________
Map Your Flood Risk
Find Floodplan Maps, Facts, FAQs, Your Flood Risk Profile and More!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/54620693cc9ac6930db9st03vuc
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 16:16:42 2014
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From: "Robert" <trsix74@comcast.net>
To: <mjmullin@juno.com>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <20141111.075133.29997.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 18:19:38 -0500
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Parts Wanted: SU Float Bowls
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"I was wondering if anyone out there had two SU HS6 float bowls (part number
AUD 2140) that they are willing to part with?  Joe Curto says he thinks that
they were used on Spitfires and MGCs.  Any help would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks, Matt"

They were used on Big Healy's, Jags. Are you looking for the bowl or the
float?
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 17 17:42:28 2014
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From: Ashford Little <ralittle2@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2014 19:45:25 -0500
To: 6-Pack Email List <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] 6-Pack Calendars available for pre-order
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

If you are interested in ordering a 6-Pack Calendar the send an email to David
Fidler at:  DJFidlerATrogers.com (replace the AT with @)

In your email please type the following with your information:


John Smith,smithy,jsmith@email.com,1234 Long Road,Apt
4,Smithtown,FL,12345,2,yes

If you have any further questions then please visit the 6-Pack sitebs forum
area.  The topic is:

Forum <http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum> 6-PACK Club
<http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/3-6-pack-club> Club Membership and
Club Business
<http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/19-club-membership-and-club-busine
ss> 2015 6-PACK Calendar - Now accepting order pledges! (Official Thread)
<http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/19-club-membership-and-club-busine
ss/255919-2015-6-PACK-Calendar-Now-accepting-order-pledges-Official-Thread>

Have a good evening,

Ashford Little
ralittle2@mac.com

Fidbs full text is:

Ladies & Gentlemen,

I am pleased to announce that the 2015 6-PACK Calendar can now go into the
design phase, as I have enough great photos to choose from. However, I can't
go to print until I have sufficient orders to cover the minimum order costs
(and a sponsor).

The system I had in place for the 2013 Calendar (there wasn't one in 2014   )
seemed to work well, so I'm going to use the same process.

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU FOLLOW THE PROCESS BELOW!

1. DO NOT post your pledge here.

2. Send me your order pledge to: editorAT6-PACK.org (replace the "AT" with
"@", don't forget the hyphen in "6-PACK" and it's ".org" NOT ".com").

Please submit in the following format:

SUBJECT LINE -> 2015 6-PACK Calendar pledge

IN THE MESSAGE BOX ->

Hi Fid,

Your First & Last Name,Forum Name,E-mail Address,Street Address,Apt #/Address
2 (if none then leave this blank but type in a second comma here>),Town or
City,State or Province,Zip or Postal Code,Quantity Required (type "1" or "2"
etc.),Paid Member? (type Yes or No)

[IMPORTANT: Please insert all commas exactly as shown (I suggest you copy and
paste the above into your email and then overtype each field (between the
commas).]

3. Payment will ONLY be accepted via PayPal using your credit card - YOU DON'T
NEED YOUR OWN PAYPAL ACCOUNT TO PAY THIS WAY AND IT'S VERY SIMPLE TO DO! The
price will probably be the same as 2013 - $28 for one calendar, orders for
more than 3 total, please ask for a special quote.

4. I will send YOU an invoice for payment if/when I receive sufficient pledges
(which will be around 180 to make this work out). This will arrive in your
inbox for the E-mail you provide to me in 2 above, so please make sure it is
current and active. Also, please ensure that "6-PACK.org" is in your "safe
senders" list in your E-mail browser (MS Outlook etc.).

5. SUBSCRIBE TO THIS THREAD using the check box at the bottom of this page. I
will post announcements here and ONLY here.

6. Please DO NOT post questions here, send me a PM or better still, an e-mail
to the address above and I will reply sooner (I don't monitor the forums
everyday, but I do track my e-mail).


OK, I'm sorry for all the block capitals, I'm not shouting   , it's just very
important that my time not be taken up answering questions that are already
covered above. The instructions may look complicated, but should be easy to
follow, it allows me to import you directly into my database software without
retyping everything! If you're not sure, send it to me the way you think it
should be and I'll fix any problems at my end, don't wait to submit your
pledge, as we don't have a lot of time!

Although these are only pledges right now, they will become firm orders once
the minimum number is reached, so please pledge on the basis you WILL receive
an invoice for payment. Once your payment clears through PayPal, I will ship
your calendar(s).

Last important message: THE DEADLINE FOR ORDER PLEDGES IS SUNDAY NOVEMBER 23RD
2014. This is for me to stand any chance of printing and mailing these before
Christmas/New Year.

I look forward to receiving your pledges and I thank each and every pledger in
advance for their support.

Over to you...

Fid.
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 18 13:01:38 2014
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Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2014 13:04:39 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101
 Firefox/29.0 SeaMonkey/2.26.1
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>, Triumph <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Stuff for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

With the onset of winter here in Salt Lake City, time to clean up the garage enough
to get Karen's car inside. To that end I will be offering various parts and tools for
sale. Check out

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=178  TR6 start solenoid

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=160 Spitfire column switch

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=144 Weber 40 DCOE

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=144  TR6 Weber manifold ( post needs updating )



And for the rest of November and December, I'll set aside 10% of any sales to a current
project of mine, feeding the hungry:  http://bradakis.com/fill_pot.html
If you aren't interested in any of the parts but want to assist in filling the pot, I won't
complain ;-)

mjb the huckster.
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 18 14:28:42 2014
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Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2014 14:32:13 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101
 Firefox/29.0 SeaMonkey/2.26.1
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>, Triumph <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <546BA657.8060701@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Stuff for sale, correction
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=82  TR6 Weber manifold ( post needs updating )


Okay, that should be the correct link to the manifold. It fits the later wide port heads as
well as GT6. But for the GT6 you'd need a hood bulge to clear the front carb.

mjb.
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 23 13:33:13 2014
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From: "im" <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2014 09:36:42 +0000
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http://www.aliensindia.com/iiumka/dmbmamudcvndnay.vuvzqpoctjfopasupsdzzzcxp




























 im
 11/23/2014 9:36:42 PM
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 24 11:27:56 2014
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From: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2014 18:30:10 +0000
 FILETIME=[AE3C2610:01D00814]
Subject: [6pack] watch for spam
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hi guys,Sorry for the spam that appears to be from me. Obviously it's not.
Wouldn't it be funny to actually have a need to send a group distribution an
email that only contains a suspicious looking link? No one would open it.
(haha)
By the way, since I'm writing anyway: My brother (73-Six) and I (69-Six)
attended a holiday open house at Virginia International Speedway a few weeks
ago. BY FAR most fun I've ever had in the car. For $25 donation you got in a
15 minute session of 'brisk' laps on the road course. I expected a frustrating
bumper to bumper cruise around the course. It was noooooooot!  It was flat out
as fast as I could run. Us and one TVR were the only LBCs there, mostly
Corvettes, Mustangs, Porsches, etc. It was all I could do to keep the 300ZX in
front of me within sight and the new Camero behind me out of my tail pipe.
Totally out gunned on the straight-aways (90-ish), but held my-own in the
curves.  We did it twice each, always rode as passenger with the other, and
were exhausted at the end of each 15 minutes.
carry on, Sloane 69-Six72-Spit
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 26 19:53:37 2014
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Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2014 19:56:38 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:33.0) Gecko/20100101
 Firefox/33.0 SeaMonkey/2.30
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>, Triumph <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <546BA657.8060701@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Stuff for sale
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Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> With the onset of winter here in Salt Lake City, time to clean up the garage enough
> to get Karen's car inside. To that end I will be offering various parts and tools for
> sale. Check out
>
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=178  TR6 start solenoid
>
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=160 Spitfire column switch
>
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=144 Weber 40 DCOE
>
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=144  TR6 Weber manifold ( post needs updating )
>
>
>
> And for the rest of November and December, I'll set aside 10% of any sales to a current
> project of mine, feeding the hungry:  http://bradakis.com/fill_pot.html
> If you aren't interested in any of the parts but want to assist in filling the pot, I won't
> complain ;-)
>
> mjb the huckster.


I should have waited until after Thanksgiving to list this stuff. The folks who purchased items
have not yet received them, I've been kind of busy. And leaving for Phoenix in the morning. I'll
get the shipping done when I return, hope the server behaves, and wish a happy Thanksgiving to those
of you who celebrate it.

mjb.
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 29 12:08:41 2014
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2014 11:11:48 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[5469DCC0:01D00C08]
Subject: [6pack] Opinions on cost of a factory hardtop
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What do folks think a decent price would be for a restored factory hardtop?


bSent from my Atari 2600b
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 29 12:16:00 2014
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2014 11:19:20 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[6186FD60:01D00C09]
Subject: [6pack] Follow up on carb tuning
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Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, a while ago I was asking about the tune up procedure and expressing my madness at obtaining a good tune. 
I always knew something seemed a bit off. Just couldn't pin point it. 
I recently decided to go beyond just checking the movement of the temp compensators. I ran hot water over the metal strip. Low and behold one was in poor shape. I had some spares that worked perfect, put those on the carbs and the car ran perfect!
No 'surges' in engine, very little increase in rpm's in idle after the engine was hot. Used to go crazy. It starting rising a little, so maybe a bit more work is needed. 
Well, I now have a good running TR6 and am a happy boy. I knew there was something up. And I thought those temp units were fine. 
Thanks for all the info a few months ago. Thought I'd give an update. 


bSent from my Atari 2600b
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 29 19:58:08 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2014 20:52:28 -0600
Subject: [6pack] TR6 temp gage issues
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after the car sat for several months while doing transmission work, the temp
gage now pins right as soon as the car fully warms up.  radiator is relatively
cool, not steaming out or anything.  Ibm pretty sure the car is not
overheating, and it did work fine some months ago.  Ibve opened up the
thermostat cover and it all looks good.

I replaced the temp sensor with an older one I had around, and as far as I
know is working, same result.  tested it with hot water; get about 100%
connectivity using my tester when cold; drops way off when hot.

take the original sensor, hook it up to another gage which I think works,
using hot water, spare voltage regulator, and it seems to work fine.

different used gage I had around, same result.

hook up the used gages, voltage regulator, wire it up battery to vr (grounded)
to gage to sensor in car, it pins right when the car is warmed up.  same for
other gage.

I could use some advice on what to do next.
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 29 20:52:22 2014
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>, "Triumph 6 Pack"
 <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <39300009EE6247E4883C76E8BD1AC3DA@Ranteer.local>
Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2014 21:56:01 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] TR6 temp gage issues
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Did you check for the thermostat opening in some hot water?

Greg
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 29 21:42:45 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <39300009EE6247E4883C76E8BD1AC3DA@Ranteer.local>
 <3029905A5DC94B4DA2878A3DA1E45920@livingroompc>
Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2014 22:22:32 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] TR6 temp gage issues
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correct me if I'm wrong, but if the thermostat does not open, the car will 
overheat and I'll see boiling out?  that's why I didn't.

I drove it for 20 miles, including sitting in traffic.  but I will check 
that, thank you.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Greg Lemon
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2014 9:56 PM
To: dave n ; Triumph 6 Pack ; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 temp gage issues

Did you check for the thermostat opening in some hot water?

Greg
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 29 22:42:06 2014
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>, "Triumph 6 Pack"
 <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <39300009EE6247E4883C76E8BD1AC3DA@Ranteer.local>
 <3029905A5DC94B4DA2878A3DA1E45920@livingroompc>
 <7D7F42C91DC44108A9CF5070C8A96E6D@Ranteer.local>
Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2014 23:45:43 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] TR6 temp gage issues
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Dave, I don't think you mentioned driving for 20 minutes the first time, 
yes, I would agree, you would could definitely tell you had a hot engine if 
the thermostat failed shut and you drove around for 20 minutes.  But I have 
certainly seen the gauge peg quickly when the thermostat had failed in the 
shut position, and it sounded like you were checking most everything else so 
it seemed like it was worth a shot.  Isn't there a voltage stabilizer under 
the dash?  I think it is in the circuit with the gas gauge and the temp 
gauge too, is the gas gauge behaving as it should?

Greg Lemon
68 TR250
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 06:11:31 2014
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From: robert fabie <bobfabie@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 08:14:21 -0500
To: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Opinions on cost of a factory hardtop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello James,

A fully restorable (not restored) factory steel TR6/250/4 top could easily
fetch $1500-$2000. This assumes all the small bits and pieces (like
interior vents and chrome moldings) are in place, including all the
hardware needed to attach the top to the car. This also assumes no
rust-through on the metal.

I mention "restoarable" because the chances of someone selling a "restored"
hardtop that happens to match the exact color of your car are slim. As
such, you would need to have the top dismantled and painted to match your
vehicle's color.

These original hardtops are becoming increasingly rare and finding a
"restored" one is even rarer. Opinions will vary, but my estimates are
based on my having paid $900 for a perfect restorable one 14 years ago.

Before you pull the trigger on one, take a look at the Roadster Factory
catalog as a guide to all the parts that make up the hardtop. Some are
still available and others are not.

Best,
Bob
1975 TR6 (with hardtop)




On Sat, Nov 29, 2014 at 2:11 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:

> What do folks think a decent price would be for a restored factory hardtop?
>
>
> b Sent from my Atari 2600b
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 06:20:28 2014
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From: robert fabie <bobfabie@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 08:23:28 -0500
To: Ashford Little <ralittle2@mac.com>
Cc: 6-Pack Email List <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] 6-Pack Calendars available for pre-order
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Ashford,

I appreciate your efforts at producing a calendar for us, but for God's
sake, why are you making it so damn complicated?

Bob
1975 TR6

On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Ashford Little <ralittle2@mac.com> wrote:

> If you are interested in ordering a 6-Pack Calendar the send an email to
> David
> Fidler at:  DJFidlerATrogers.com (replace the AT with @)
>
> In your email please type the following with your information:
>
>
> John Smith,smithy,jsmith@email.com,1234 Long Road,Apt
> 4,Smithtown,FL,12345,2,yes
>
> If you have any further questions then please visit the 6-Pack siteb s
> forum
> area.  The topic is:
>
> Forum <http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum> 6-PACK Club
> <http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/3-6-pack-club> Club Membership
> and
> Club Business
> <
> http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/19-club-membership-and-club-busine
> ss> 2015 6-PACK Calendar - Now accepting order pledges! (Official Thread)
> <
> http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/19-club-membership-and-club-busine
> ss/255919-2015-6-PACK-Calendar-Now-accepting-order-pledges-Official-Thread
> >
>
> Have a good evening,
>
> Ashford Little
> ralittle2@mac.com
>
> Fidb s full text is:
>
> Ladies & Gentlemen,
>
> I am pleased to announce that the 2015 6-PACK Calendar can now go into the
> design phase, as I have enough great photos to choose from. However, I
> can't
> go to print until I have sufficient orders to cover the minimum order costs
> (and a sponsor).
>
> The system I had in place for the 2013 Calendar (there wasn't one in 2014
>  )
> seemed to work well, so I'm going to use the same process.
>
> IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU FOLLOW THE PROCESS BELOW!
>
> 1. DO NOT post your pledge here.
>
> 2. Send me your order pledge to: editorAT6-PACK.org (replace the "AT" with
> "@", don't forget the hyphen in "6-PACK" and it's ".org" NOT ".com").
>
> Please submit in the following format:
>
> SUBJECT LINE -> 2015 6-PACK Calendar pledge
>
> IN THE MESSAGE BOX ->
>
> Hi Fid,
>
> Your First & Last Name,Forum Name,E-mail Address,Street Address,Apt
> #/Address
> 2 (if none then leave this blank but type in a second comma here>),Town or
> City,State or Province,Zip or Postal Code,Quantity Required (type "1" or
> "2"
> etc.),Paid Member? (type Yes or No)
>
> [IMPORTANT: Please insert all commas exactly as shown (I suggest you copy
> and
> paste the above into your email and then overtype each field (between the
> commas).]
>
> 3. Payment will ONLY be accepted via PayPal using your credit card - YOU
> DON'T
> NEED YOUR OWN PAYPAL ACCOUNT TO PAY THIS WAY AND IT'S VERY SIMPLE TO DO!
> The
> price will probably be the same as 2013 - $28 for one calendar, orders for
> more than 3 total, please ask for a special quote.
>
> 4. I will send YOU an invoice for payment if/when I receive sufficient
> pledges
> (which will be around 180 to make this work out). This will arrive in your
> inbox for the E-mail you provide to me in 2 above, so please make sure it
> is
> current and active. Also, please ensure that "6-PACK.org" is in your "safe
> senders" list in your E-mail browser (MS Outlook etc.).
>
> 5. SUBSCRIBE TO THIS THREAD using the check box at the bottom of this
> page. I
> will post announcements here and ONLY here.
>
> 6. Please DO NOT post questions here, send me a PM or better still, an
> e-mail
> to the address above and I will reply sooner (I don't monitor the forums
> everyday, but I do track my e-mail).
>
>
> OK, I'm sorry for all the block capitals, I'm not shouting   , it's just
> very
> important that my time not be taken up answering questions that are already
> covered above. The instructions may look complicated, but should be easy to
> follow, it allows me to import you directly into my database software
> without
> retyping everything! If you're not sure, send it to me the way you think it
> should be and I'll fix any problems at my end, don't wait to submit your
> pledge, as we don't have a lot of time!
>
> Although these are only pledges right now, they will become firm orders
> once
> the minimum number is reached, so please pledge on the basis you WILL
> receive
> an invoice for payment. Once your payment clears through PayPal, I will
> ship
> your calendar(s).
>
> Last important message: THE DEADLINE FOR ORDER PLEDGES IS SUNDAY NOVEMBER
> 23RD
> 2014. This is for me to stand any chance of printing and mailing these
> before
> Christmas/New Year.
>
> I look forward to receiving your pledges and I thank each and every
> pledger in
> advance for their support.
>
> Over to you...
>
> Fid.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bobfabie@gmail.com
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 06:26:28 2014
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From: robert fabie <bobfabie@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 08:29:27 -0500
To: DJFidler@rogers.com, "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Pin-Up Calendar
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

David,

I appreciate your efforts at producing a calendar for us, but for God's
sake, why are you making it so damn complicated?

Bob
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 07:13:22 2014
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From: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
To: dave n <dave@ranteer.com>, Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>,
 "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 14:16:31 +0000
References: <39300009EE6247E4883C76E8BD1AC3DA@Ranteer.local>
 FILETIME=[3D595C90:01D00CA8]
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 temp gage issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like your voltage stabilizer has gone south. It's mounted to the back
of the speedo or tach, can't remember, and have no idea why they made it so
hard to get to. Be careful because your gas gauge is probably reading high
too.
Sloane :o)69-Six72-Spit

> From: dave@ranteer.com
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2014 20:52:28 -0600
> Subject: [6pack] TR6 temp gage issues
>
> after the car sat for several months while doing transmission work, the
temp
> gage now pins right as soon as the car fully warms up.  radiator is
relatively
> cool, not steaming out or anything.  Ibm pretty sure the car is not
> overheating, and it did work fine some months ago.  Ibve opened up the
> thermostat cover and it all looks good.
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 14:30:05 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <39300009EE6247E4883C76E8BD1AC3DA@Ranteer.local>
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Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 15:21:35 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] TR6 temp gage issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

here is what I did today.  tried to document every detail.  looks to me like 
the sending unit is bad.  both???
btw - fuel gage seems to read fine

did I miss anything?

1 - replace the thermostat
2. started car with lots of choke; idling about 1500 rpm
3. gage starts out pinned left; after a couple minutes it starts to move 
right
4. infrared says temp of t stat housing is 112 and climbing
5. at 120 gage is vertical
6. turn off choke, rev engine; settles in at idle of 1200 or so, which is 
normal (engine is not stock!)
7. tstat housing temperature in the 125 to 130 range; gage is moving right
8. after 5 to 10 minutes, gage has settled just left of the red square under 
the letter H
9. temperature is now in the 150 to 160 range; gage has moved farther right. 
as the temperature passes 170 it [pins right
10. shut off car
11. set up secondary system - positive terminal to voltage regulator, vr is 
grounded as it should be, then vr to gage to sending unit
12.  it still pins right.  this is using separate gage, separate sending 
unit, and completely independent of the cars wiring system except the 
battery and chassis
13.  connected mulitmeter from positive terminal to t stat housing and to 
temperature switch threads.  both read over 12 volts
14.  old switch - which was in the car originally - I used the continuity 
tester - i get 0 when the two probes touch, 1 when one nothing is connected
15.  connecting through the old switch (cold) i get .588
16. swapped original sending unit back in; car was still pretty warm (off 
except for power)
17. temp gage moved to almost full hot
18. disconnected car wiring from sending unit; plugged in "external" temp 
gage system; also read way right
19. temp sensor which was in there - measures 5.6 or so on the continuity 
tester cold
20.  put it in boiling water - continuity tester reads .13
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 16:17:15 2014
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Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 15:20:54 -0800
From: John Cyganowski <janah@att.net>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

<snip> A fully restorable (not restored) factory steel TR6/250/4 top could easily
fetch $1500-$2000. <snip>

This seems a little high to me.  Now I know prices have gone up.  It would be difficult for me to pay more than $1000 for a restoration candidate. The head liner is going to be brittle and the factor glue stained the headliners after a while. Figure a total replacement of the headliner. Bodywork and paint is probably going to cost you $700-$1200. 

The parts that are not available are the headliner bows and the rear glass. Some folks have used plexiglass for the rear but the original had compound curves. You might be able to make bows, but it won't be easy. 

For all of this, they are heavy and not easily stored (they take up room amd there is no good place to set them). Some folks prop them up on their rear points against a wall.  This is hard on the chrome. Others rig up elaborate pulley systems and suspend them from the garage ceiling because their significant others and children cant or wont help with them.  Quickly folks lose interest in the factory hardtops but they don't like to part with them.

Yet when installed they look great.
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Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 19:23:14 -0500
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: John Cyganowski <janah@att.net>
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] (no subject)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I still wouldn't pay more than $600. if it needs headliner, gaskets, and
paint. Unless you want to
be buried in  it. Literally and figuratively.  Then they spend way too much
time stored in a spare room.
[?]


Al

On Sun, Nov 30, 2014 at 6:20 PM, John Cyganowski <janah@att.net> wrote:

> <snip> A fully restorable (not restored) factory steel TR6/250/4 top could
> easily
> fetch $1500-$2000. <snip>
>
> This seems a little high to me.  Now I know prices have gone up.  It would
> be difficult for me to pay more than $1000 for a restoration candidate. The
> head liner is going to be brittle and the factor glue stained the
> headliners after a while. Figure a total replacement of the headliner.
> Bodywork and paint is probably going to cost you $700-$1200.
>
> The parts that are not available are the headliner bows and the rear
> glass. Some folks have used plexiglass for the rear but the original had
> compound curves. You might be able to make bows, but it won't be easy.
>
> For all of this, they are heavy and not easily stored (they take up room
> amd there is no good place to set them). Some folks prop them up on their
> rear points against a wall.  This is hard on the chrome. Others rig up
> elaborate pulley systems and suspend them from the garage ceiling because
> their significant others and children cant or wont help with them.  Quickly
> folks lose interest in the factory hardtops but they don't like to part
> with them.
>
> Yet when installed they look great.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy@gmail.com

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Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 19:48:57 -0500
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AdANAJZrKijgUK4mT/iae29YVKTHcw==
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Hardtop value
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Robert Fabie wrotw:

>A fully restorable (not restored) factory steel TR6/250/4 top could easily
fetch $1500-$2000. This assumes all the small >bits and pieces (like
interior vents and chrome moldings) are in place, including all the hardware
needed to attach the top >to the car. This also assumes no rust-through on
the metal.

 

>>James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:

 

>> What do folks think a decent price would be for a restored factory
hardtop?

 

   OK, next question - what's an original TR6 hardtop worth?  Yes, I
understand

the fact that finding a hardtop in the same color as your car (and with the
same 

amount of sun fade, etc.) is quite remote, but an original top with all the
trim,

glass and headliner plus all the attaching h/w should be worth some premium.

   Yes, I do have one but I'm not inclined to sell it at this time (it's a
rather 

rare color, Tahiti Blue). I presume it's potentially worth more with the car
than

without.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

(hard top was last on the car in June of 1989)  
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 17:51:42 2014
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Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 16:55:03 -0800
From: John Cyganowski <janah@att.net>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] 6-Pack Calendars available for pre-order
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

<snip>I appreciate your efforts at producing a calendar for us, but for God's
sake, why are you making it so damn complicated?<snip>

Even though my name is not Ashford, I will try to answer this question.

Robert-

The pledging process seems - as you have observed - complex. But ther are some reasons for this.


This effort is being run by David Fidler the 6Pack Magazine Editor.  He is a one man show. For this project alone he must:
	* receive the photo submissions
	* select the photos
	* contract with the calendar printer.
	* negotiate vendor underwriting to reduce cost to the pledge-es.

	* receive the pledges

	* manage the payments
	* chase folks that pledge and don't pay because that affects the cost

	* manage the addresses
	* manage the mailing of the calendars
	* handle complaints
So this is a lot for anyone - and he has a day job.  Fid has asked us to submit pledges for the calendar in a specific format to automate some of the process and help reduce his workload.  I don't think this is unreasonable in light of all that he is doing to produce a professional quality calendar.

If folks were to volunteer to help him then perhaps the process could be less complicated.  


I for one am grateful to have a 6Pack calendar at all.


John Cyg
70 Damson
CC52927LO
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 18:11:54 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <39300009EE6247E4883C76E8BD1AC3DA@Ranteer.local>
 <SNT146-W23B6653CD87B696E036A7B8E7C0@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 19:09:35 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 temp gage issues
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it turned out to be the voltage stabilizer.  I was trying to test with another
one that  was broken, so that really complicated things.  I apparently had a
very new one and that solved it.

thanks to all that helped.
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 20:33:41 -0500
From: Gene Holtzclaw <motrv8d@hotmail.com>
To: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
 FILETIME=[DF942FE0:01D00D06]
Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Hardtop value
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If you wanted a honest opinion, I'd say put the hardtop on your watch list,
and wait, unless you really see a "need" for one. As in a driver that you
drive in the winter, or a lot in the summer. I don't know about everybody
else, but I haven't had my hardtop on in 5+ years, and only then because my
soft top needed replacing, and I didn't want to at the time

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net> wrote:

Robert Fabie wrotw:

>A fully restorable (not restored) factory steel TR6/250/4 top could easily
fetch $1500-$2000. This assumes all the small >bits and pieces (like
interior vents and chrome moldings) are in place, including all the hardware
needed to attach the top >to the car. This also assumes no rust-through on
the metal.



>>James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:



>> What do folks think a decent price would be for a restored factory
hardtop?



   OK, next question - what's an original TR6 hardtop worth?  Yes, I
understand

the fact that finding a hardtop in the same color as your car (and with the
same

amount of sun fade, etc.) is quite remote, but an original top with all the
trim,

glass and headliner plus all the attaching h/w should be worth some premium.

   Yes, I do have one but I'm not inclined to sell it at this time (it's a
rather

rare color, Tahiti Blue). I presume it's potentially worth more with the car
than

without.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

(hard top was last on the car in June of 1989)
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/motrv8d@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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