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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2015 00:16:08 +0000
 FILETIME=[212B6A00:01D02EC6]
Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Seals - Advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought a factory hardtop and need advice on whether or not some side seals
are needed.
TRF shows part number GP22 no the sides:
http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/index.php?zoom=1&page=92#GP43&s_wt=1440&s_ht
=900
And I see on this restoration - the sides are
missing.http://www.74tr6.com/pics/hardtop114.jpg
Mine is set up the same way. Meaning, it only has the REAR seal.Do the TFR
side seals get glued to the sides?
On a side note, the PO of the top replaced the vents with lights. kinda cool.
I wonder how on earth theylocated what appears to be an exact fit.
Thanks,
James
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 12 17:45:02 2015
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Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2015 19:48:54 -0500
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hardtop Seals - Advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

The side seals do get glued on.

AL

On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 7:16 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:

> I bought a factory hardtop and need advice on whether or not some side
> seals
> are needed.
> TRF shows part number GP22 no the sides:
>
> http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/index.php?zoom=1&page=92#GP43&s_wt=1440&s_ht
> =900
> And I see on this restoration - the sides are
> missing.http://www.74tr6.com/pics/hardtop114.jpg
> Mine is set up the same way. Meaning, it only has the REAR seal.Do the TFR
> side seals get glued to the sides?
> On a side note, the PO of the top replaced the vents with lights. kinda
> cool.
> I wonder how on earth theylocated what appears to be an exact fit.
> Thanks,
> James
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy@gmail.com
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 13 00:01:49 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2015 23:05:56 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[620928D0:01D02EFF]
Subject: [6pack] Painting advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I need a fresh paint job.

Single stage or base coat/clear coat?

I found a local guy who works on all sorts of classic cars. He wants to do a
single stage urethane and needs several months to sand, a few rust repairs and
paint.
$7500
Alternatively...

My neighbor saw a tr4 getting painting at ... Wait for it...Maaco.
So I paid them a visit. They have loads of classics and newer cars they are
painting, restoring, rust repair etc. It was actually quite impressive. Most
finished products had been delivered but a couple cars were still there. On
one such car I could see some dust specks in the paint but it was an
impressive job overall.
Now, Maaco has always been synonymous with ... Well ... Crappy work.
Additionally, they suggest clear coat/base coat.

So what do folks think about which paint method and will Maaco's work really
hold up and be good? Guess it is just paint and the important bit is the prep
work. And gets down to the shop. One Maaco may be rubbish while the one I
visited my have great
Craftsmen.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 13 00:20:35 2015
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Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2015 23:24:46 -0800
From: Tom Lofgren <tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org>
To: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

James,

My son and I are just finishing repainting a 240Z in base coat/clear coat.
We used Dupont Chromabase, which is a high quality paint with Nason (lower
cost Dupont product) primers underneath.  Just the material cost was about
$1500.  You didn't say how much Maaco was going to charge you, but I would
be asking lots of questions if it's not at least a couple thousand.

I have heard stories about good shops that have the "cheap" shop names, and
yours could be one of them.  They are indeed all different.

Good luck!
Tom

On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 11:05 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:

> I need a fresh paint job.
>
> Single stage or base coat/clear coat?
>
> I found a local guy who works on all sorts of classic cars. He wants to do
> a
> single stage urethane and needs several months to sand, a few rust repairs
> and
> paint.
> $7500
> Alternatively...
>
> My neighbor saw a tr4 getting painting at ... Wait for it...Maaco.
> So I paid them a visit. They have loads of classics and newer cars they are
> painting, restoring, rust repair etc. It was actually quite impressive.
> Most
> finished products had been delivered but a couple cars were still there. On
> one such car I could see some dust specks in the paint but it was an
> impressive job overall.
> Now, Maaco has always been synonymous with ... Well ... Crappy work.
> Additionally, they suggest clear coat/base coat.
>
> So what do folks think about which paint method and will Maaco's work
> really
> hold up and be good? Guess it is just paint and the important bit is the
> prep
> work. And gets down to the shop. One Maaco may be rubbish while the one I
> visited my have great
> Craftsmen.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 13 06:27:24 2015
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Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2015 08:29:36 -0500
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: Tom Lofgren <tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org>
Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

There's paint and then there's paint.  One place is going to paint the car
for $400-700.
The other place just the materials are $1000-1500.
Maaco is by definition a fast production facility.  They don't take off
trim, not fussy about masking off parts.
You ever open up a door and see painted door lock, painted hood springs?
Most macco jobs I've seen after a year or two have lost quite a bit of
luster. ( quality of paint ?)
They did look pretty good after just being painted.
You also have to like orange peal as they don't do color sanding.

I use a single stage with a clearcoat cocktail in the final coat; as it
duplicates the original enamel the best to me.
Its not any cheaper than a basecoat/clear.  So there can be quite a
difference in the quality of materials.
There's a big difference between apples and oranges.

Just saying.

Al

On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 2:24 AM, Tom Lofgren <tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org
> wrote:

> James,
>
> My son and I are just finishing repainting a 240Z in base coat/clear coat.
> We used Dupont Chromabase, which is a high quality paint with Nason (lower
> cost Dupont product) primers underneath.  Just the material cost was about
> $1500.  You didn't say how much Maaco was going to charge you, but I would
> be asking lots of questions if it's not at least a couple thousand.
>
> I have heard stories about good shops that have the "cheap" shop names, and
> yours could be one of them.  They are indeed all different.
>
> Good luck!
> Tom
>
> On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 11:05 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I need a fresh paint job.
> >
> > Single stage or base coat/clear coat?
> >
> > I found a local guy who works on all sorts of classic cars. He wants to
> do
> > a
> > single stage urethane and needs several months to sand, a few rust
> repairs
> > and
> > paint.
> > $7500
> > Alternatively...
> >
> > My neighbor saw a tr4 getting painting at ... Wait for it...Maaco.
> > So I paid them a visit. They have loads of classics and newer cars they
> are
> > painting, restoring, rust repair etc. It was actually quite impressive.
> > Most
> > finished products had been delivered but a couple cars were still there.
> On
> > one such car I could see some dust specks in the paint but it was an
> > impressive job overall.
> > Now, Maaco has always been synonymous with ... Well ... Crappy work.
> > Additionally, they suggest clear coat/base coat.
> >
> > So what do folks think about which paint method and will Maaco's work
> > really
> > hold up and be good? Guess it is just paint and the important bit is the
> > prep
> > work. And gets down to the shop. One Maaco may be rubbish while the one I
> > visited my have great
> > Craftsmen.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > 6pack@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 13 06:35:05 2015
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Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2015 08:39:00 -0500
From: Gene Holtzclaw <motrv8d@hotmail.com>
To: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
 FILETIME=[53DF31A0:01D02F36]
Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

My father owned a body shop when I was very young, and up until my mid 20s.
What Al is saying is spot on. If you want cheap shine, get a cheap paint job.
In my opinion, a cheap paint job cheapens the car. To properly paint a car, no
paint lines in the door jambs, no over spray where it shouldn't be, the car
about has to be disassembled. We actually painted hoods, doors, deck lids,
etc, hanging from wire, then put back on the car.
It pretty much always holds true thar you pretty much get out of it what you
put into it.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com> wrote:

There's paint and then there's paint.  One place is going to paint the car
for $400-700.
The other place just the materials are $1000-1500.
Maaco is by definition a fast production facility.  They don't take off
trim, not fussy about masking off parts.
You ever open up a door and see painted door lock, painted hood springs?
Most macco jobs I've seen after a year or two have lost quite a bit of
luster. ( quality of paint ?)
They did look pretty good after just being painted.
You also have to like orange peal as they don't do color sanding.

I use a single stage with a clearcoat cocktail in the final coat; as it
duplicates the original enamel the best to me.
Its not any cheaper than a basecoat/clear.  So there can be quite a
difference in the quality of materials.
There's a big difference between apples and oranges.

Just saying.

Al

On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 2:24 AM, Tom Lofgren <tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org
> wrote:

> James,
>
> My son and I are just finishing repainting a 240Z in base coat/clear coat.
> We used Dupont Chromabase, which is a high quality paint with Nason (lower
> cost Dupont product) primers underneath.  Just the material cost was about
> $1500.  You didn't say how much Maaco was going to charge you, but I would
> be asking lots of questions if it's not at least a couple thousand.
>
> I have heard stories about good shops that have the "cheap" shop names, and
> yours could be one of them.  They are indeed all different.
>
> Good luck!
> Tom
>
> On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 11:05 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I need a fresh paint job.
> >
> > Single stage or base coat/clear coat?
> >
> > I found a local guy who works on all sorts of classic cars. He wants to
> do
> > a
> > single stage urethane and needs several months to sand, a few rust
> repairs
> > and
> > paint.
> > $7500
> > Alternatively...
> >
> > My neighbor saw a tr4 getting painting at ... Wait for it...Maaco.
> > So I paid them a visit. They have loads of classics and newer cars they
> are
> > painting, restoring, rust repair etc. It was actually quite impressive.
> > Most
> > finished products had been delivered but a couple cars were still there.
> On
> > one such car I could see some dust specks in the paint but it was an
> > impressive job overall.
> > Now, Maaco has always been synonymous with ... Well ... Crappy work.
> > Additionally, they suggest clear coat/base coat.
> >
> > So what do folks think about which paint method and will Maaco's work
> > really
> > hold up and be good? Guess it is just paint and the important bit is the
> > prep
> > work. And gets down to the shop. One Maaco may be rubbish while the one I
> > visited my have great
> > Craftsmen.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > 6pack@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 13 10:39:16 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2015 09:43:23 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[6F5EDDA0:01D02F58]
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes. I totally agree...as I mentioned 
"The important bit is the prep
work. "
Maaco goes down to metal as needed and wants to see what is under the old paint. So that was good to see. 

I was mainly interested in opinions about single stage vs base/clear. 

I forgot to mention that I would be removing everything - including the WS frame and deliver a rolling tub. 
I do not want the tape around gaskets and door locks. That is crappy. 
I haven't gotten a quote from Maaco yet. They are looking over the car on Thursday. 

Maaco sands between primer, base, and again after clear and then buffs glossy. They have a booth and then a heated booth. Which is nice. Some places don't have heated booth ovens. 
I do want this to last many years and be professional looking. 
But good to know they may be using cheaper paint. Or something that causes the luster to dull after a few years. 


bSent from my Atari 2600b

> On Jan 13, 2015, at 5:29 AM, "alan salvatore" <alansalvy@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> There's paint and then there's paint.  One place is going to paint the car for $400-700.
> The other place just the materials are $1000-1500.
> Maaco is by definition a fast production facility.  They don't take off trim, not fussy about masking off parts.
> You ever open up a door and see painted door lock, painted hood springs?
> Most macco jobs I've seen after a year or two have lost quite a bit of luster. ( quality of paint ?)
> They did look pretty good after just being painted.
> You also have to like orange peal as they don't do color sanding.
> 
> I use a single stage with a clearcoat cocktail in the final coat; as it duplicates the original enamel the best to me.
> Its not any cheaper than a basecoat/clear.  So there can be quite a difference in the quality of materials.
> There's a big difference between apples and oranges.
> 
> Just saying.
> 
> Al
> 
>> On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 2:24 AM, Tom Lofgren <tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org> wrote:
>> James,
>> 
>> My son and I are just finishing repainting a 240Z in base coat/clear coat.
>> We used Dupont Chromabase, which is a high quality paint with Nason (lower
>> cost Dupont product) primers underneath.  Just the material cost was about
>> $1500.  You didn't say how much Maaco was going to charge you, but I would
>> be asking lots of questions if it's not at least a couple thousand.
>> 
>> I have heard stories about good shops that have the "cheap" shop names, and
>> yours could be one of them.  They are indeed all different.
>> 
>> Good luck!
>> Tom
>> 
>> On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 11:05 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> > I need a fresh paint job.
>> >
>> > Single stage or base coat/clear coat?
>> >
>> > I found a local guy who works on all sorts of classic cars. He wants to do
>> > a
>> > single stage urethane and needs several months to sand, a few rust repairs
>> > and
>> > paint.
>> > $7500
>> > Alternatively...
>> >
>> > My neighbor saw a tr4 getting painting at ... Wait for it...Maaco.
>> > So I paid them a visit. They have loads of classics and newer cars they are
>> > painting, restoring, rust repair etc. It was actually quite impressive.
>> > Most
>> > finished products had been delivered but a couple cars were still there. On
>> > one such car I could see some dust specks in the paint but it was an
>> > impressive job overall.
>> > Now, Maaco has always been synonymous with ... Well ... Crappy work.
>> > Additionally, they suggest clear coat/base coat.
>> >
>> > So what do folks think about which paint method and will Maaco's work
>> > really
>> > hold up and be good? Guess it is just paint and the important bit is the
>> > prep
>> > work. And gets down to the shop. One Maaco may be rubbish while the one I
>> > visited my have great
>> > Craftsmen.
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >
>> > 6pack@autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>> 
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>> 
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 13 11:14:50 2015
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Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2015 13:18:44 -0500
From: Gene Holtzclaw <motrv8d@hotmail.com>
To: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
 FILETIME=[686C5AE0:01D02F5D]
Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

If you do that, and talk to them about a higher grade paint, I wholeheartedly
believe in base clear

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:

Yes. I totally agree...as I mentioned
"The important bit is the prep
work. "
Maaco goes down to metal as needed and wants to see what is under the old
paint. So that was good to see.

I was mainly interested in opinions about single stage vs base/clear.

I forgot to mention that I would be removing everything - including the WS
frame and deliver a rolling tub.
I do not want the tape around gaskets and door locks. That is crappy.
I haven't gotten a quote from Maaco yet. They are looking over the car on
Thursday.

Maaco sands between primer, base, and again after clear and then buffs glossy.
They have a booth and then a heated booth. Which is nice. Some places don't
have heated booth ovens.
I do want this to last many years and be professional looking.
But good to know they may be using cheaper paint. Or something that causes the
luster to dull after a few years.


bSent from my Atari 2600b

> On Jan 13, 2015, at 5:29 AM, "alan salvatore" <alansalvy@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> There's paint and then there's paint.  One place is going to paint the car
for $400-700.
> The other place just the materials are $1000-1500.
> Maaco is by definition a fast production facility.  They don't take off
trim, not fussy about masking off parts.
> You ever open up a door and see painted door lock, painted hood springs?
> Most macco jobs I've seen after a year or two have lost quite a bit of
luster. ( quality of paint ?)
> They did look pretty good after just being painted.
> You also have to like orange peal as they don't do color sanding.
>
> I use a single stage with a clearcoat cocktail in the final coat; as it
duplicates the original enamel the best to me.
> Its not any cheaper than a basecoat/clear.  So there can be quite a
difference in the quality of materials.
> There's a big difference between apples and oranges.
>
> Just saying.
>
> Al
>
>> On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 2:24 AM, Tom Lofgren
<tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org> wrote:
>> James,
>>
>> My son and I are just finishing repainting a 240Z in base coat/clear coat.
>> We used Dupont Chromabase, which is a high quality paint with Nason (lower
>> cost Dupont product) primers underneath.  Just the material cost was about
>> $1500.  You didn't say how much Maaco was going to charge you, but I would
>> be asking lots of questions if it's not at least a couple thousand.
>>
>> I have heard stories about good shops that have the "cheap" shop names,
and
>> yours could be one of them.  They are indeed all different.
>>
>> Good luck!
>> Tom
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 12, 2015 at 11:05 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > I need a fresh paint job.
>> >
>> > Single stage or base coat/clear coat?
>> >
>> > I found a local guy who works on all sorts of classic cars. He wants to
do
>> > a
>> > single stage urethane and needs several months to sand, a few rust
repairs
>> > and
>> > paint.
>> > $7500
>> > Alternatively...
>> >
>> > My neighbor saw a tr4 getting painting at ... Wait for it...Maaco.
>> > So I paid them a visit. They have loads of classics and newer cars they
are
>> > painting, restoring, rust repair etc. It was actually quite impressive.
>> > Most
>> > finished products had been delivered but a couple cars were still there.
On
>> > one such car I could see some dust specks in the paint but it was an
>> > impressive job overall.
>> > Now, Maaco has always been synonymous with ... Well ... Crappy work.
>> > Additionally, they suggest clear coat/base coat.
>> >
>> > So what do folks think about which paint method and will Maaco's work
>> > really
>> > hold up and be good? Guess it is just paint and the important bit is the
>> > prep
>> > work. And gets down to the shop. One Maaco may be rubbish while the one
I
>> > visited my have great
>> > Craftsmen.
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >
>> > 6pack@autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> 6pack@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy@gmail.com
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 13 12:44:35 2015
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From: Bob Greene <trsick@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2015 14:47:03 -0500
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting advise
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Here is my exp w MAACO.
They have a bad rap because kids go in there with a dented/rusted POS. They
want the ""299.00"
Special. When the MAACO team recommends fixing & doing the job right it goes
over the "299.00"
Special price & the kid says "nah just paint over it". After, when it looks
like crap & the kids friends ask "who painted that POS". The kid says "MAACO"
but never says "they wanted to do it right but I was too cheap/poor". Thus the
bad rap.
I had my 1976 TR6 painted by my local MAACO.
But I did all the body work & primer. I also removed all trim and any other
parts that would need masking. Delivered to them on a flatbed. They
recommended an Higher end paint with a single stage clear coat.
I went with the better paint. And told them to lay it on heavy as I planned to
color sand it.
I also had them paint it the same color so it did not have to be jammed or
painted under the Bonnet & boot.
They had the car done in about 4 days. When I picked it up, I found a couple
of runs in the paint. Left it another day so they could fix the runs.
The car came out GREAT! In fact it looked so good I never did color sand it. I
did this about 14 years & it looked great up to the day I sold it
You gotta remember the Macco's works in crews & the guy that paints Prob
paints more cars in a week than a local body shop does in 3 months.
They also have the best of equipment & ovens to cure it right.
IMO if you bring them a nice car & let them know you care about it. They enjoy
working on a nice car for a change. Much more rewarding than painting kids
POS's all day.
Your results may vary. But that's how it went for me with 2 cars I had MAACO
do.
NFI
Bob G.
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 15 16:12:03 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2015 15:16:12 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[41BF64B0:01D03119]
Subject: [6pack] Zenith Carbs: should I save from the crusher?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

>From time to time I visit auto salvage yards. The ones out west only keep cars for 30-90 days. Then they are crushed! Back east the yards save vehicles a long time. So I never felt pressured to grab parts. 
Now I loose sleep knowing that parts are being destroyed. I don't need the parts but maybe others do. Now I didn't really want to be in the business of being a parts warehouse, but maybe I do start investing in used parts. For example I just found out a 1972 Jag got crushed that had perfect Zenith carbs on it. Ugh! I found another Jag (1974) and thinking it is my duty to start saving parts. 
Just wanting a reality check...should I start investing in saving things like carbs? It would probably cost me a bit but if I broke even and not stuck with the parts - I am ok with that. Just need to pick and choose what parts. 
I think a good set of carbs would be good to save. 
Others agree??? They are no longer made but maybe people just switch to Webers anyway. 


bSent from my Atari 2600b
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From: David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2015 18:50:13 -0500
To: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Zenith Carbs: should I save from the crusher?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree, James... Seems like if you had the space and time, you could
easily become a resource of key and critical parts as the pool of available
goods diminishes or goes extinct. Perhaps you could start with carbs but
I'm sure other parts would also come to mind: Dash instruments, various
engines/trannys/ODs and their parts, possibly even body sheet metal if
they're rust free... Many possibilities here...

Dave
'74 Six
'59 3A

On Thu, Jan 15, 2015 at 6:16 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:

> From time to time I visit auto salvage yards. The ones out west only keep
> cars for 30-90 days. Then they are crushed! Back east the yards save
> vehicles a long time. So I never felt pressured to grab parts.
> Now I loose sleep knowing that parts are being destroyed. I don't need the
> parts but maybe others do. Now I didn't really want to be in the business
> of being a parts warehouse, but maybe I do start investing in used parts.
> For example I just found out a 1972 Jag got crushed that had perfect Zenith
> carbs on it. Ugh! I found another Jag (1974) and thinking it is my duty to
> start saving parts.
> Just wanting a reality check...should I start investing in saving things
> like carbs? It would probably cost me a bit but if I broke even and not
> stuck with the parts - I am ok with that. Just need to pick and choose what
> parts.
> I think a good set of carbs would be good to save.
> Others agree??? They are no longer made but maybe people just switch to
> Webers anyway.
>
>
> b Sent from my Atari 2600b
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7@gmail.com
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 <CAJ1eQwgGOVXDp_=WcJ5u-H51sb7krSF7cu2SLmeUg7HdT7ZYOg@mail.gmail.com>
From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2015 16:45:19 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[B4DBF790:01D03125]
Subject: Re: [6pack] Zenith Carbs: should I save from the crusher?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the encouragement.
It seems like such a waste for parts to be crushed! I am so sad I missed who
knows how many cars and the recent carbs off a 72 jag. But like I said I found
a 74 jag and a early 70's TR7 both with carbs. I'll invested in these and
clean them up.
I have been collecting things in the past when I would see them. EGR valves,
EGR Counters. I did see two carbon canisters. They can easily be
re-charcoal-ed but maybe folks need those.
Maybe head rests too. The frame that is.
Ok. I'm on a crusade!
Feel free to ask me about items to look for. I am super glad to help and not
doing this to make a profit. Just trying to give back. :-)
Cheers
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 16 18:03:58 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2015 17:08:09 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[0FCDB310:01D031F2]
Subject: [6pack] Carbon canister
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How does one know if it nice new charcoal. And how is it supposed to open? I tried unscrewing to no avail. 

Found some at a junk yard and want to look inside first before selling. 


bSent from my Atari 2600b
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 19 11:41:41 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2015 10:45:23 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[1678F670:01D03418]
Subject: [6pack] Hand brake cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

My hand brake cable isn't stopping the car on a slight incline. In the past it meant time to adjust at the drums. 
And that worked. 
But the darn threaded end is so long it hits the Clevis pin. I ordered a new cable and it is actually VERY long. So I decided to use the old one and cut off a small length of the threads so I could tighten. 
Question: is this common? Others had to do this? Why is the Moss cable so long? Maybe it is a universal cable these days. 
Thoughts?
Thanks. 
James



bSent from my Atari 2600b
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 19 15:15:29 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2015 14:19:16 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[F7834270:01D03435]
Subject: [6pack] Which carpet to buy?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I am looking for a new carpet and insulation set.
I have beige seats and panels.
Currently using brown carpet. I may switch to beige.
Which company do folks recommend?
I saw Prestige sells Carley's for much
less.
And it looks like colors are limited on the big three. Some offer beige some
don't. I guess I could stick with brown to reduce the look of dirt on beige
carpets. Black probably would look generic/odd against beige seats and a green
car.

Hmmm.
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 19 16:40:18 2015
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Received: by 76.13.26.108; Mon, 19 Jan 2015 23:37:17 +0000 
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2015 23:37:17 +0000 (UTC)
From: Jim Jones <jimjcmo@yahoo.com>
To: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>, 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU406-EAS354A7812371A5F41170A355804A0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Which carpet to buy?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Strangely, you'll find that the lighter carpet colors will less show lint,
grass bits, and other detritus than black or brown. Black is darn near
impossible to noticeable soil. Brown will show gravel less than the other two.
I would probably go with the beige carpet and use rubber mats when driving.
B Jim Jones
(573) 635-3557
Jones Beltone Hearing and Audiology
1431 Southwest Blvd. Suite 1
Jefferson City, MO 65109
www.jonesbeltone.com

      From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
 To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 4:19 PM
 Subject: [6pack] Which carpet to buy?

I am looking for a new carpet and insulation set.
I have beige seats and panels.
Currently using brown carpet. I may switch to beige.
Which company do folks recommend?
I saw Prestige sells Carley's for much
less.
And it looks like colors are limited on the big three. Some offer beige some
don't. I guess I could stick with brown to reduce the look of dirt on beige
carpets. Black probably would look generic/odd against beige seats and a
green
car.

Hmmm.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimjcmo@yahoo.com
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 19 16:40:42 2015
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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2015 23:39:17 +0000 (UTC)
From: Jim Jones <jimjcmo@yahoo.com>
To: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>, 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU406-EAS1619BD1DB715DBCDA6C660B804A0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hand brake cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

This is very common. Every TR will needs its cable adjusted or shortened. When
I had my car I adjusted the cable every year, and shortened it as you did
twice.
B Jim Jones
(573) 635-3557
Jones Beltone Hearing and Audiology
1431 Southwest Blvd. Suite 1
Jefferson City, MO 65109
www.jonesbeltone.com

      From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
 To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 12:45 PM
 Subject: [6pack] Hand brake cable

My hand brake cable isn't stopping the car on a slight incline. In the past it
meant time to adjust at the drums.
And that worked.
But the darn threaded end is so long it hits the Clevis pin. I ordered a new
cable and it is actually VERY long. So I decided to use the old one and cut
off a small length of the threads so I could tighten.
Question: is this common? Others had to do this? Why is the Moss cable so
long? Maybe it is a universal cable these days.
Thoughts?
Thanks.
James



bSent from my Atari 2600b
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 19 19:14:56 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2015 17:48:16 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[29B0B1C0:01D03453]
Subject: Re: [6pack] Which carpet to buy?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Whoops. Silly auto correct. Below was supposed to say 'prestige sells CARPETS for less money...' Not Carley's! Hah. 

bSent from my Atari 2600b

> On Jan 19, 2015, at 2:19 PM, "James_" <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I am looking for a new carpet and insulation set.
> I have beige seats and panels.
> Currently using brown carpet. I may switch to beige.
> Which company do folks recommend?
> I saw Prestige sells Carley's for much
> less.
> And it looks like colors are limited on the big three. Some offer beige some
> don't. I guess I could stick with brown to reduce the look of dirt on beige
> carpets. Black probably would look generic/odd against beige seats and a green
> car.
> 
> Hmmm.
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jattr6@hotmail.com
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 21 00:44:51 2015
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From: David Rogers <dnja.rogers@bigpond.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2015 18:36:48 +1100
References: <mailman.4.1421780401.24868.6pack@autox.team.net>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Colour Options
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

James,
	Just another combination to ponder! It is a deeper maroon than shown in the
pix.

Dave Rogers
Canberra Australia
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 21 08:36:16 2015
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2015 15:35:59 +0000 (UTC)
From: Yahoo <brucesimms2003@yahoo.ca>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] carpet to buy?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I have cockpit carpet in lighter tan and trunk carpet in new tan. B both in
nylon from TRF. B Both are very nice, but I think the new tan with light tan
binding looks richer. B  I would go with my trunk color in cockpit nest
time.Seats are Miata tan leather. B  I was concerned about spare oil or other
leaking onto trunk carpet so went with new tanCheers, Bruce Simms
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 22 05:00:34 2015
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From: "im" <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
To: "aellner" <aellner@tradebank.com>, "6pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>,
 "amos pigg" <amos1001@yahoo.com>, "dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2015 01:02:01 +0000
Subject: [6pack] design x
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 http://golfteam.us/vfwwd/adxfeddkftzvikcatrwoopsptakaatvaeh.gcmhjfqsxthvuhgp
xwdwdthsmonmwzsjgr


















  im
 1/22/2015 1:02:01 PM
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 30 13:07:13 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2015 12:05:36 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[1DCAA550:01D03CC8]
Subject: [6pack] Hardtop vents
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Could someone measure and photograph their hardtop rear vents for me. 
The PO installed lights were the vents should be. Anyone have any spare vents?
I have some, but they seem the wrong size. 
Thanks



bSent from my Atari 2600b
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2015 23:38:38 +0000 (UTC)
From: Sally or Dick Taylor <taylorturbo6@yahoo.com>
To: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>, 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU406-EAS6598991B59C868A1706F6F80310@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hardtop vents
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

 James --- Here's what mine measures out tob&Dick


     On Friday, January 30, 2015 12:11 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:


 Could someone measure and photograph their hardtop rear vents for me.
The PO installed lights were the vents should be. Anyone have any spare
vents?
I have some, but they seem the wrong size.
Thanks



bSent from my Atari 2600b
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6@yahoo.com

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