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Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2015 10:15:42 -0800
From: John Cyganowski <janah@att.net>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hardtop Vents
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Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I think you will find that the vents from a TR6 hardtop are identical to the vents in the GT6. But if you search for TR6 hardtop vents they are as rare as hens teeth but the GT6 vents are readily available. 

John Cyganowski
70 Damson
CC52927LO
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Feb  1 15:40:00 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2015 14:22:29 -0800
To: John Cyganowski <janah@att.net>
 FILETIME=[93EC2AF0:01D03E6D]
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hardtop Vents
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Oh. Good to know. I have some vents but wasn't sure they fit. I thought they were too large because the PO installed small lights in place of the vents and fabricated a plate to reduce the hole size. It was difficult to 
Tell that was done because the headliner covered it. 
I was able to feel around and determine what was done. I plan to return to original now. 
Thanks for the responses. 

bSent from my Atari 2600b

> On Feb 1, 2015, at 10:41 AM, "John Cyganowski" <janah@att.net> wrote:
> 
> I think you will find that the vents from a TR6 hardtop are identical to the vents in the GT6. But if you search for TR6 hardtop vents they are as rare as hens teeth but the GT6 vents are readily available. 
> 
> John Cyganowski
> 70 Damson
> CC52927LO
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb  4 12:38:14 2015
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From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2015 13:42:05 -0600
To: Listserv Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Triumph 6 Pack
 <6pack@autox.team.net>
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Cc: Ron Brainard <ron@rcsystems.com>
Subject: [6pack] Pahrump, Nevada.      Duel In The Desert.   VARA
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California/Nevada/Arizona Triumphs

A couple Midwesterners are coming out of the cold and going to the desert end
of next week.

Vararacing.com.  For date and details.

Anybody else going to be there?

Not a big event, but Jerry Barker is running his obscenely fast Herald and
there will be several Spitfires.

Kent Howard will be driving his TR4A in from Sedona. I am flying in.

Regards,


Joe Alexander
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA 50648
The-vintage-racer.com
Gasketinnovations.com
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Feb  6 16:00:48 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2015 14:42:48 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[3D7A03F0:01D0425E]
Subject: [6pack] Painting Redline on black tires
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So I have read about some people painting Redlines on their newer tires for
vehicles such as Pontiacs (that also had Redlines). Anyone have experience
with this? What paint do I buy and does the paint hold up?

I found some paint on eBay and a local auto paint store sells SEM brand brand
paint. But I read to use a paint that is applied with a brush.

Thanks in advance.

James
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb  7 17:59:41 2015
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Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2015 00:58:39 +0000 (UTC)
From: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
To: 6Pack List <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Refiring my TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi everyone,
After four years in storage (my eldest son is now almost three and a half
years old, so you understand why the Triumph as gone on the backburner!), it's
time to get the my '71 TR6 back on the road.
I'm planning to do a quick rebuild of the carbs and fuel pump (I'm sure time
and that darned ethanol-blend fuel hasn't been kind to them), as well as
replace the rear wheel cylinders (seals appear to be shot, as brake pedal goes
to floor and there is a little puddle under each rear wheel).B  Will also buy
a new brake master cylinder in case that's shot.

Couple of questions for the list:
1. In the past when the car has sat for a long time, I have spun the engine
with the starter for a while before firing, to get the oil circulated.B  To
reduce strain on the "dry" engine when doing this, I have removed the spark
plugs and removed the rocker shaft, so that the engine can spin with very
little resistance.B  However, my dad recommended just removing the distributor
and pulling the cam gear out, and just spinning the oil pump with a drill.B 
Is that possible in a TR6?B  I'm not clear how I'm going to connect my drill
to the oil pump.B  If I remember right, the shaft that goes from the cam gear
to the oil pump is press-fit into the cam gear, so it's not like I can connect
it to my drill.B  Any thoughts?
2. I remember reading that there are 0.75" rear wheel cylinders available
which give slightly better braking performance, especially when paired with
the Toyota 4-pot front calipers (which I may do in the near future).B  Where
do we get these 0.75" wheel cylinders?

2. I may need to replace the clutch master cylinder.B  Should I go with the
0.70" or 0.75" bore?B  I understand the 0.75 will give me higher pedal
pressure but more movement of the slave, which seems a good idea considering
how close the tolerances are with clutch-throw on these cars.B  What do you
all think?B B 
3. Anyone have any experience with these new "nitrophyl" carb floats that I
see on Moss's website?B  They are apparently a solid float instead of hollow,
thus the problem of a hole in the float is eliminated.B  Seems like a neat
idea while the carbs are being rebuilt.
Thanks all,
Tim Holbrook1971 TR6 (hopefully back on the road this spring!)
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb  7 19:14:56 2015
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Timothy Holbrook" <tjh173@yahoo.com>, "6Pack List" <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <178104374.330882.1423357119818.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2015 20:08:56 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] Refiring my TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, it would be best to spin the oil pump rather than spinning the motor, 
it has been a few years since I did it, and I only did it once, but I 
believe if you can find a large standard blade screwdriver type 
extension/drill bit it will do the trick, that being said, I don't know that 
it would be awful just to spin the motor until you get some oil pressure.

I did the Toyota caliper conversion and went with I believe a 7/8" (.875) 
rear wheel cylinder from a Morgan.  Your pedal will go down quite a bit 
farther because you have to move more fluid to push the larger rear wheel 
cylinder and especially the four pot front calipers).  I did it this summer, 
and I have bled and adjusted to no end, and still don't like the pedal feel, 
the brakes work fine, probably better than stock when you get on them, but 
when tooling around I like the reassuring feeling  of a nice firm pedal that 
bites right away.  I am thinking I am going to convert back with that 
sterling recommendation, if you want all the parts lightly used and cheap I 
will make you a deal, ready to go with the adapter pipe fittings for the 
metric calipers and shims for the slightly larger caliper bolts.

Good luck,

Greg Lemon
TR250

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Timothy Holbrook" <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 7, 2015 6:58 PM
To: "6Pack List" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Refiring my TR6

> Hi everyone,
> After four years in storage (my eldest son is now almost three and a half
> years old, so you understand why the Triumph as gone on the backburner!), 
> it's
> time to get the my '71 TR6 back on the road.
> I'm planning to do a quick rebuild of the carbs and fuel pump (I'm sure 
> time
> and that darned ethanol-blend fuel hasn't been kind to them), as well as
> replace the rear wheel cylinders (seals appear to be shot, as brake pedal 
> goes
> to floor and there is a little puddle under each rear wheel).B  Will also 
> buy
> a new brake master cylinder in case that's shot.
>
> Couple of questions for the list:
> 1. In the past when the car has sat for a long time, I have spun the 
> engine
> with the starter for a while before firing, to get the oil circulated.B 
> To
> reduce strain on the "dry" engine when doing this, I have removed the 
> spark
> plugs and removed the rocker shaft, so that the engine can spin with very
> little resistance.B  However, my dad recommended just removing the 
> distributor
> and pulling the cam gear out, and just spinning the oil pump with a 
> drill.B
> Is that possible in a TR6?B  I'm not clear how I'm going to connect my 
> drill
> to the oil pump.B  If I remember right, the shaft that goes from the cam 
> gear
> to the oil pump is press-fit into the cam gear, so it's not like I can 
> connect
> it to my drill.B  Any thoughts?
> 2. I remember reading that there are 0.75" rear wheel cylinders available
> which give slightly better braking performance, especially when paired 
> with
> the Toyota 4-pot front calipers (which I may do in the near future).B 
> Where
> do we get these 0.75" wheel cylinders?
>
> 2. I may need to replace the clutch master cylinder.B  Should I go with 
> the
> 0.70" or 0.75" bore?B  I understand the 0.75 will give me higher pedal
> pressure but more movement of the slave, which seems a good idea 
> considering
> how close the tolerances are with clutch-throw on these cars.B  What do 
> you
> all think?B B
> 3. Anyone have any experience with these new "nitrophyl" carb floats that 
> I
> see on Moss's website?B  They are apparently a solid float instead of 
> hollow,
> thus the problem of a hole in the float is eliminated.B  Seems like a neat
> idea while the carbs are being rebuilt.
> Thanks all,
> Tim Holbrook1971 TR6 (hopefully back on the road this spring!)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/glemon@neb.rr.com
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb  7 19:15:21 2015
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Timothy Holbrook" <tjh173@yahoo.com>, "6Pack List" <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <178104374.330882.1423357119818.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2015 20:09:40 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] Refiring my TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry should have said shims for the slightly "smaller" caliper bolts.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Timothy Holbrook" <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 7, 2015 6:58 PM
To: "6Pack List" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Refiring my TR6

> Hi everyone,
> After four years in storage (my eldest son is now almost three and a half
> years old, so you understand why the Triumph as gone on the backburner!), 
> it's
> time to get the my '71 TR6 back on the road.
> I'm planning to do a quick rebuild of the carbs and fuel pump (I'm sure 
> time
> and that darned ethanol-blend fuel hasn't been kind to them), as well as
> replace the rear wheel cylinders (seals appear to be shot, as brake pedal 
> goes
> to floor and there is a little puddle under each rear wheel).B  Will also 
> buy
> a new brake master cylinder in case that's shot.
>
> Couple of questions for the list:
> 1. In the past when the car has sat for a long time, I have spun the 
> engine
> with the starter for a while before firing, to get the oil circulated.B 
> To
> reduce strain on the "dry" engine when doing this, I have removed the 
> spark
> plugs and removed the rocker shaft, so that the engine can spin with very
> little resistance.B  However, my dad recommended just removing the 
> distributor
> and pulling the cam gear out, and just spinning the oil pump with a 
> drill.B
> Is that possible in a TR6?B  I'm not clear how I'm going to connect my 
> drill
> to the oil pump.B  If I remember right, the shaft that goes from the cam 
> gear
> to the oil pump is press-fit into the cam gear, so it's not like I can 
> connect
> it to my drill.B  Any thoughts?
> 2. I remember reading that there are 0.75" rear wheel cylinders available
> which give slightly better braking performance, especially when paired 
> with
> the Toyota 4-pot front calipers (which I may do in the near future).B 
> Where
> do we get these 0.75" wheel cylinders?
>
> 2. I may need to replace the clutch master cylinder.B  Should I go with 
> the
> 0.70" or 0.75" bore?B  I understand the 0.75 will give me higher pedal
> pressure but more movement of the slave, which seems a good idea 
> considering
> how close the tolerances are with clutch-throw on these cars.B  What do 
> you
> all think?B B
> 3. Anyone have any experience with these new "nitrophyl" carb floats that 
> I
> see on Moss's website?B  They are apparently a solid float instead of 
> hollow,
> thus the problem of a hole in the float is eliminated.B  Seems like a neat
> idea while the carbs are being rebuilt.
> Thanks all,
> Tim Holbrook1971 TR6 (hopefully back on the road this spring!)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>
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>
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From: Bill Palmer <wmp@charter.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2015 11:27:55 -0500
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 7, Issue 4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Why paint your tires?





Sent via mobile Palmer

> On Feb 7, 2015, at 2:00 PM, 6pack-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>
> Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
>    6pack@autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    6pack-request@autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    6pack-owner@autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Painting Redline on black tires (James_)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2015 14:42:48 -0800
> From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
> To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] Painting Redline on black tires
> Message-ID: <BLU406-EAS366AB957FFF47A79558133280380@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> So I have read about some people painting Redlines on their newer tires for
> vehicles such as Pontiacs (that also had Redlines). Anyone have experience
> with this? What paint do I buy and does the paint hold up?
>
> I found some paint on eBay and a local auto paint store sells SEM brand
brand
> paint. But I read to use a paint that is applied with a brush.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> James
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> 6pack mailing list
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 7, Issue 4
> ***********************************
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  9 14:57:12 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
To: Bill Palmer <wmp@charter.net>, "6pack@autox.team.net"
 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 21:53:55 +0000
References: <mailman.1.1423335601.10408.6pack@autox.team.net>,
 <9D5B27A3-4CDD-4DFE-AF47-9A310265191B@charter.net>
 FILETIME=[E6FC0D50:01D044B2]
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting Redline on black tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Why you ask would I want to paint the tires?Because at the time when I bought
new tires, I wanted higher-end Michelins and didn't have time to research and
order from one of the Redline company's.
So, having taking the TR out of storage I have started a bunch of updates and
one thought was painting Redlines.The Pontiac/muscle car folks do this too. It
may not be worth the effort, but thought I'd ask.

> From: wmp@charter.net
> Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2015 11:27:55 -0500
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 7, Issue 4
>
> Why paint your tires?
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent via mobile Palmer
>
> > On Feb 7, 2015, at 2:00 PM, 6pack-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> >
> > Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
> >    6pack@autox.team.net
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> >    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> >    6pack-request@autox.team.net
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> >    6pack-owner@autox.team.net
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> >   1. Painting Redline on black tires (James_)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2015 14:42:48 -0800
> > From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
> > To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [6pack] Painting Redline on black tires
> > Message-ID: <BLU406-EAS366AB957FFF47A79558133280380@phx.gbl>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > So I have read about some people painting Redlines on their newer tires
for
> > vehicles such as Pontiacs (that also had Redlines). Anyone have
experience
> > with this? What paint do I buy and does the paint hold up?
> >
> > I found some paint on eBay and a local auto paint store sells SEM brand
> brand
> > paint. But I read to use a paint that is applied with a brush.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > James
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Subject: Digest Footer
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > 6pack mailing list
> > 6pack@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 7, Issue 4
> > ***********************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  9 16:28:30 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 15:20:29 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[FF8F49C0:01D044BE]
Subject: [6pack] Original color of floorpans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

One more restoring question

A lot of areas on my car were left primer red from the factory. (I am assuming
that was the factory as it looked original and was in areas that an average
owner would never get access to)
So I need to have new floor pans installed. I was looking at coating with POR
15 and see they offer a product called Hardnose. It comes in many colors. I
would possibly use another POR15 or primer underneath this Hardnose paint
product.
Question:
Were the floor pans dark red 'primer' or something else? And what do others
recommend I coat them with?

Cheers

James
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  9 17:13:27 2015
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Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 19:06:39 -0500
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Original color of floorpans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

The inside of the floor pans were body color.  Bottom side was
red primer.
Al

On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 6:20 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:

> One more restoring question
>
> A lot of areas on my car were left primer red from the factory. (I am
> assuming
> that was the factory as it looked original and was in areas that an average
> owner would never get access to)
> So I need to have new floor pans installed. I was looking at coating with
> POR
> 15 and see they offer a product called Hardnose. It comes in many colors. I
> would possibly use another POR15 or primer underneath this Hardnose paint
> product.
> Question:
> Were the floor pans dark red 'primer' or something else? And what do others
> recommend I coat them with?
>
> Cheers
>
> James
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy@gmail.com
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 10 14:00:38 2015
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 16:01:05 -0500
From: "Jason M. Owen" <footfrek@aol.com>
To: jattr6@hotmail.com, 6pack@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: S
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting Redline on black tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I think  redline tires  are the  coolest. I  would  do it in a  heartbeat  if my car was  near  running. I would  suggest a trial run  on an old tire first  just  so  you  could  see how it  works out.

Jason M. Owen


-----Original Message-----
From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
To: Bill Palmer <wmp@charter.net>; 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Feb 10, 2015 2:17 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting Redline on black tires


Why you ask would I want to paint the tires?Because at the time when I bought
new tires, I wanted higher-end Michelins and didn't have time to research and
order from one of the Redline company's.
So, having taking the TR out of storage I have started a bunch of updates and
one thought was painting Redlines.The Pontiac/muscle car folks do this too. It
may not be worth the effort, but thought I'd ask.

> From: wmp@charter.net
> Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2015 11:27:55 -0500
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 7, Issue 4
>
> Why paint your tires?
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent via mobile Palmer
>
> > On Feb 7, 2015, at 2:00 PM, 6pack-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> >
> > Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
> >    6pack@autox.team.net
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> >    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> >    6pack-request@autox.team.net
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> >    6pack-owner@autox.team.net
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> >   1. Painting Redline on black tires (James_)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2015 14:42:48 -0800
> > From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
> > To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [6pack] Painting Redline on black tires
> > Message-ID: <BLU406-EAS366AB957FFF47A79558133280380@phx.gbl>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > So I have read about some people painting Redlines on their newer tires
for
> > vehicles such as Pontiacs (that also had Redlines). Anyone have
experience
> > with this? What paint do I buy and does the paint hold up?
> >
> > I found some paint on eBay and a local auto paint store sells SEM brand
> brand
> > paint. But I read to use a paint that is applied with a brush.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > James
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Subject: Digest Footer
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > 6pack mailing list
> > 6pack@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 7, Issue 4
> > ***********************************
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 10 14:39:55 2015
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References: <14b754b9f06-3e29-c980@webprd-a60.mail.aol.com>
From: Dave More <tr6@lbcs.ca>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 14:43:59 -0700
To: "Jason M. Owen" <footfrek@aol.com>
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting Redline on black tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I've seen a few different methods of painting the red stripe on, but one that
I found kind of cool I saw on Chasing Classic Cars. Apparently Wayne Carini's
dad had a signature touch for his restorations which entailed a steady hand
holding a small brush against the wheel which was then slowly turned. I can't
speak to the type of paint used but it seemed like an effective method to get
a consistent line on the tire.

Cheers,
Dave

> On Feb 10, 2015, at 2:01 PM, Jason M. Owen <footfrek@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I think  redline tires  are the  coolest. I  would  do it in a  heartbeat
if my car was  near  running. I would  suggest a trial run  on an old tire
first  just  so  you  could  see how it  works out.
>
> Jason M. Owen
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
> To: Bill Palmer <wmp@charter.net>; 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Feb 10, 2015 2:17 pm
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting Redline on black tires
>
>
> Why you ask would I want to paint the tires?Because at the time when I
bought
> new tires, I wanted higher-end Michelins and didn't have time to research
and
> order from one of the Redline company's.
> So, having taking the TR out of storage I have started a bunch of updates
and
> one thought was painting Redlines.The Pontiac/muscle car folks do this too.
It
> may not be worth the effort, but thought I'd ask.
>
>> From: wmp@charter.net
>> Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2015 11:27:55 -0500
>> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 7, Issue 4
>>
>> Why paint your tires?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent via mobile Palmer
>>
>>> On Feb 7, 2015, at 2:00 PM, 6pack-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>>>
>>> Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
>>>   6pack@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>>   http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>>   6pack-request@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>>   6pack-owner@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>>> than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."
>>>
>>>
>>> Today's Topics:
>>>
>>>  1. Painting Redline on black tires (James_)
>>>
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 1
>>> Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2015 14:42:48 -0800
>>> From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
>>> To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: [6pack] Painting Redline on black tires
>>> Message-ID: <BLU406-EAS366AB957FFF47A79558133280380@phx.gbl>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>>
>>> So I have read about some people painting Redlines on their newer tires
> for
>>> vehicles such as Pontiacs (that also had Redlines). Anyone have
> experience
>>> with this? What paint do I buy and does the paint hold up?
>>>
>>> I found some paint on eBay and a local auto paint store sells SEM brand
>> brand
>>> paint. But I read to use a paint that is applied with a brush.
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance.
>>>
>>> James
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Subject: Digest Footer
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 6pack mailing list
>>> 6pack@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 7, Issue 4
>>> ***********************************
>> _______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 10 17:16:18 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 16:19:45 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[71E032B0:01D04590]
Subject: [6pack] Sandblasting rust.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Tired of all my questions yet?
I have some rust on the firewall in the engine compartment on either side of
the transmission. Getting a grinder down there will be a pain. I'm thinking of
low pressure sand blasting. I read soda blasting isn't strong enough for rust.
I also have the area where the PDWA brake device is mounted.
Harbor Freight sells a small unit.
Anyone want to chime in. Experience. Advice?
I read to be careful over heating. So I think lower compression is best. But I
am new at this.

Thanks
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 10 19:16:03 2015
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References: <BLU406-EAS4166C51F83B08BBB2ECAFAE80250@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 18:20:31 -0800
From: Tom Lofgren <tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org>
To: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Sandblasting rust.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't get the Harbor Freight one - they don't sell replacement nozzles.  I
got an inexpensive one at Sears, and they do have extra nozzles.

For areas that aren't visible body parts, you really don't have to worry
about heat.  I usually run at about 80PSI and that works well with rust.

Sandblasting with regular sand is generally a bad idea because of the free
silica. According to what I have read, even using a P100 rated mask isn't
good enough.   Harbor Freight sells aluminum oxide blast media, which costs
way more than sand, but doesn't have the free silica issue.  Worth the $40
in my opinion.  By the way, this media eats standard nozzles, as quickly as
in 30 minutes of blasting.  So get the extra nozzles when you buy the
blaster.

Make sure you cover up everything you can because the media gets
everywhere.  And try to prime as soon as you're done blasting, or you'll
get more rust pretty quickly and you can do it all over again.

Tom

On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 4:19 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Tired of all my questions yet?
> I have some rust on the firewall in the engine compartment on either side
> of
> the transmission. Getting a grinder down there will be a pain. I'm
> thinking of
> low pressure sand blasting. I read soda blasting isn't strong enough for
> rust.
> I also have the area where the PDWA brake device is mounted.
> Harbor Freight sells a small unit.
> Anyone want to chime in. Experience. Advice?
> I read to be careful over heating. So I think lower compression is best.
> But I
> am new at this.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 10 21:37:31 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2015 20:42:00 -0800
To: Tom Lofgren <tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org>
 FILETIME=[1490DEA0:01D045B5]
Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Sandblasting rust.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Awesome. Thanks for the tip about the tips. I was thinking of going with
either walnut shells or the oxide.

I dread having to remove the brake and clutch lines and cylinders and brake
booster to allow unobstructed access to paint the compartment. I have some
rust in those higher areas too. I plan to blend in the urethane as best as I
can to avoid painting the entire engine compartment. Especially since I've
never painted before. But have some left over paint and thought I'd try my
hand at the less visible engine compartment. I'll leave the outside body paint
to the pros who aren't just painting in a garage!




> On Feb 10, 2015, at 6:20 PM, "Tom Lofgren" <tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org>
wrote:
>
> Don't get the Harbor Freight one - they don't sell replacement nozzles.  I
got an inexpensive one at Sears, and they do have extra nozzles.
>
> For areas that aren't visible body parts, you really don't have to worry
about heat.  I usually run at about 80PSI and that works well with rust.
>
> Sandblasting with regular sand is generally a bad idea because of the free
silica. According to what I have read, even using a P100 rated mask isn't good
enough.   Harbor Freight sells aluminum oxide blast media, which costs way
more than sand, but doesn't have the free silica issue.  Worth the $40 in my
opinion.  By the way, this media eats standard nozzles, as quickly as in 30
minutes of blasting.  So get the extra nozzles when you buy the blaster.
>
> Make sure you cover up everything you can because the media gets everywhere.
And try to prime as soon as you're done blasting, or you'll get more rust
pretty quickly and you can do it all over again.
>
> Tom
>
>> On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 4:19 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> Tired of all my questions yet?
>> I have some rust on the firewall in the engine compartment on either side
of
>> the transmission. Getting a grinder down there will be a pain. I'm thinking
of
>> low pressure sand blasting. I read soda blasting isn't strong enough for
rust.
>> I also have the area where the PDWA brake device is mounted.
>> Harbor Freight sells a small unit.
>> Anyone want to chime in. Experience. Advice?
>> I read to be careful over heating. So I think lower compression is best.
But I
>> am new at this.
>>
>> Thanks
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> 6pack@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 11 05:39:21 2015
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 07:43:50 -0500 (EST)
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
References: <BLU406-EAS394B210E079FBF82D51FED180270@phx.gbl>
Cc: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Original color of floorpans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I've seen mention that the primer was not always red. First, the bodies 
were dipped in paint as part of the process. That's why the primer color 
is visible in hard to reach nooks and crannies. But the anecdotal 
reference is that toward the end of the week (e.g. FRI afternoon), the 
paint shop dumped any paint that was leftover for the week into the 
dipping tank.

I've never seen anything but that primer red, but different shades are 
def. possible.

But if you're installing new floor pans, try to leave the e-coat as intact 
as possible and then scuff it and paint as explaind - body color on the 
interior and if you're going for concours, you might try to duplicate the 
primer color on the bottom sides.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 11 07:38:54 2015
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU406-EAS4166C51F83B08BBB2ECAFAE80250@phx.gbl>
 <CAC9XxAD9KksCEX9sNFaFkvu4PdcK_3Z6S59Qmnud-RBoF89nkQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <BLU406-EAS100263402578CEDDE5B308480250@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 08:43:01 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] Sandblasting rust.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

a few years ago I used crushed up lava.  worked pretty well.  most sand 
blasting places have a selection of material.

think safety!!!!!

-----Original Message----- 
From: James_
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 10:42 PM
To: Tom Lofgren
Cc: 6 Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Sandblasting rust.

Awesome. Thanks for the tip about the tips. I was thinking of going with
either walnut shells or the oxide.

I dread having to remove the brake and clutch lines and cylinders and brake
booster to allow unobstructed access to paint the compartment. I have some
rust in those higher areas too. I plan to blend in the urethane as best as I
can to avoid painting the entire engine compartment. Especially since I've
never painted before. But have some left over paint and thought I'd try my
hand at the less visible engine compartment. I'll leave the outside body 
paint
to the pros who aren't just painting in a garage!
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 09:58:52 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU406-EAS4166C51F83B08BBB2ECAFAE80250@phx.gbl>
 <CAC9XxAD9KksCEX9sNFaFkvu4PdcK_3Z6S59Qmnud-RBoF89nkQ@mail.gmail.com>
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 a=pILNOxqGKmIA:10
Subject: Re: [6pack] Sandblasting rust.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I used that black coal residue blasting media. It comes in coarse and 
fine grade. I used the fine. It is cheap so you can blast outdoors and 
not have to worry about media recovery.

My outdoor blaster also came from Sears. It works very good but you have 
to keep the media very dry.

I setup one of those portable garages and covered the sides with plastic 
used for painting. Very cheap at Lowes. That way, all the dust stays in 
the tent and wont bother your neighbors.

If you do choose to blast out doors, get one of those blasting hoods + 
always wear a good dust respirator  and a good set of gloves. Best to 
also wear overalls from head to toe. That media gets everywhere!

Bob


>
> I dread having to remove the brake and clutch lines and cylinders and 
> brake
> booster to allow unobstructed access to paint the compartment. I have 
> some
> rust in those higher areas too. I plan to blend in the urethane as 
> best as I
> can to avoid painting the entire engine compartment. Especially since 
> I've
> never painted before. But have some left over paint and thought I'd 
> try my
> hand at the less visible engine compartment. I'll leave the outside 
> body paint
> to the pros who aren't just painting in a garage!
> _______________________________________________
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>, "jattr6@hotmail.com"
 <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 11:02:14 -0500
References: <mailman.5537.1423666455.2121.6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[1AC9FE00:01D04614]
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting Tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I tried doing this 45 years ago on my mother's Dodge Dart GT. I found it
was painstaking work and difficult to be neat and I had to put on more than
one coat of the red to cover the up the black. And the red still wasn't as
bright as I should have been.
By the time I was midway through the 2nd coat on the first tire, I had made
such a mess that I never completed all 4.
This looks like it might be the same stuff:
.https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=tire+paint+pen+red

I remember they also had white for lettering your tires. I expect that because
of the raised borders on each letter, that that would be even more difficult
than doing simple red lines.  I think the paint may be OK for touch ups but
almost impossible to get original looking results.


Coker sell redline tires:
https://www.cokertire.com/185r15-coker-classic-3-8-redline.html?utm_source=go
ogle_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=%7Bkeyword%7D&utm_content=57986&gclid=C
jwKEAiAmOymBRD0_evS4aTh2hUSJAB7FkhyEMWVpDOX7tjOBacl-O-634GJ-HSOBwGNPb2-4kUFHx
oCLSbw_wcB



-Dave Murphy '76 Triumph
Dearborn MI
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 11 09:11:59 2015
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From: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 16:16:12 +0000
References: <BLU406-EAS394B210E079FBF82D51FED180270@phx.gbl>,
 <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1502110736490.11262@isis.mit.edu>
 FILETIME=[0DF354E0:01D04616]
Subject: Re: [6pack] Original color of floorpans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Is it just me, but does the fact that the factory decided to only paint the
bottom (outside in the weather) of the floor pans with primer have a direct
connection to why we're all experienced with replacing the same panels? It's a
good thing these cars are all so cute, or we wouldn't even be bothering
discussing them 40+ years later.
Wow,Sloane :-)69-Six72-Spit

>
> But if you're installing new floor pans, try to leave the e-coat as intact
> as possible and then scuff it and paint as explaind - body color on the
> interior and if you're going for concours, you might try to duplicate the
> primer color on the bottom sides.
>
> Regards,
> rml
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 11 09:27:45 2015
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From: Ashford Little <ralittle2@mac.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 11:31:49 -0500
References: <BLU406-EAS394B210E079FBF82D51FED180270@phx.gbl>
 <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1502110736490.11262@isis.mit.edu>
 <SNT146-W72738D87BF3DABFA5F13F08E250@phx.gbl>
To: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
Cc: 6-Pack Email List <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Original color of floorpans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

LOL, perhaps.

Ashford Little
ralittle2@mac.com




> On Feb 11, 2015, at 11:16 AM, im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Is it just me, but does the fact that the factory decided to only paint the
> bottom (outside in the weather) of the floor pans with primer have a direct
> connection to why we're all experienced with replacing the same panels? It's
a
> good thing these cars are all so cute, or we wouldn't even be bothering
> discussing them 40+ years later.
> Wow,Sloane :-)69-Six72-Spit
>
>>
>> But if you're installing new floor pans, try to leave the e-coat as intact
>> as possible and then scuff it and paint as explaind - body color on the
>> interior and if you're going for concours, you might try to duplicate the
>> primer color on the bottom sides.
>>
>> Regards,
>> rml
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 11 10:32:43 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 09:34:19 -0800
To: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
 FILETIME=[F85B86B0:01D04620]
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Original color of floorpans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

You crack me up. So true. 
Heck, I was recently tempted to buy a GT6 (always loved those) but decided one triumph is enough for my OCD tendencies. Lol. 


bSent from my Atari 2600b

> On Feb 11, 2015, at 8:16 AM, "im sloane" <im_sloane@hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Is it just me, but does the fact that the factory decided to only paint the
> bottom (outside in the weather) of the floor pans with primer have a direct
> connection to why we're all experienced with replacing the same panels? It's a
> good thing these cars are all so cute, or we wouldn't even be bothering
> discussing them 40+ years later.
> Wow,Sloane :-)69-Six72-Spit
> 
>> 
>> But if you're installing new floor pans, try to leave the e-coat as intact
>> as possible and then scuff it and paint as explaind - body color on the
>> interior and if you're going for concours, you might try to duplicate the
>> primer color on the bottom sides.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> rml
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> 
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 11 12:49:31 2015
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 14:54:03 -0500
From: "Jason M. Owen" <footfrek@aol.com>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
 s=20140625; t=1423684444;
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting Tires
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It  maybe  wise to do a  white  primer   coat  to paint over  red maybe? there was a site that  showed how to  do this  years ago. it  was a pontiac site I thing.
Jason M.Owen



-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>; jattr6 <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Sent: Wed, Feb 11, 2015 1:42 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting Tires


I tried doing this 45 years ago on my mother's Dodge Dart GT. I found it
was painstaking work and difficult to be neat and I had to put on more than
one coat of the red to cover the up the black. And the red still wasn't as
bright as I should have been.
By the time I was midway through the 2nd coat on the first tire, I had made
such a mess that I never completed all 4.
This looks like it might be the same stuff:
.https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=tire+paint+pen+red

I remember they also had white for lettering your tires. I expect that because
of the raised borders on each letter, that that would be even more difficult
than doing simple red lines.  I think the paint may be OK for touch ups but
almost impossible to get original looking results.


Coker sell redline tires:
https://www.cokertire.com/185r15-coker-classic-3-8-redline.html?utm_source=go
ogle_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=%7Bkeyword%7D&utm_content=57986&gclid=C
jwKEAiAmOymBRD0_evS4aTh2hUSJAB7FkhyEMWVpDOX7tjOBacl-O-634GJ-HSOBwGNPb2-4kUFHx
oCLSbw_wcB



-Dave Murphy '76 Triumph
Dearborn MI
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 11 12:53:12 2015
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 14:57:44 -0500
From: "Jason M. Owen" <footfrek@aol.com>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting Tires/ Link how to do it.
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Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/8.html

there is the  link instructions are pretty detailed


Jason M. Owen


-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>; jattr6 <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Sent: Wed, Feb 11, 2015 1:42 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting Tires


I tried doing this 45 years ago on my mother's Dodge Dart GT. I found it
was painstaking work and difficult to be neat and I had to put on more than
one coat of the red to cover the up the black. And the red still wasn't as
bright as I should have been.
By the time I was midway through the 2nd coat on the first tire, I had made
such a mess that I never completed all 4.
This looks like it might be the same stuff:
.https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=tire+paint+pen+red

I remember they also had white for lettering your tires. I expect that because
of the raised borders on each letter, that that would be even more difficult
than doing simple red lines.  I think the paint may be OK for touch ups but
almost impossible to get original looking results.


Coker sell redline tires:
https://www.cokertire.com/185r15-coker-classic-3-8-redline.html?utm_source=go
ogle_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=%7Bkeyword%7D&utm_content=57986&gclid=C
jwKEAiAmOymBRD0_evS4aTh2hUSJAB7FkhyEMWVpDOX7tjOBacl-O-634GJ-HSOBwGNPb2-4kUFHx
oCLSbw_wcB



-Dave Murphy '76 Triumph
Dearborn MI
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Bob Greene <trsick@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2015 17:26:41 -0500
References: <mailman.5537.1423666455.2121.6pack@autox.team.net>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
x-aol-global-disposition: G
 s=20140625; t=1423693602;
 bh=FZ+2m1NmFZDw0jQoqllkadqPym3Gc4hlWaNeo7dsGSE=;
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Sandblasting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Home Depot sells a small handheld sandblaster that works really well. I
believe it's made for Home Depot under the husky brand. Replacement nozzles
are sold at Home Depot also.
It is in the air tool dept. Less than $20.00.
It is very simple yet effective. It just draws the media out of a bucket.
I use fine grade black beauty aka Coal Slag. Coal Slag is much safer & more
effective than sand.  Most tool rental shops sell it in 100# bags around
$15.00.
But use the fine grade only anything more coarse will be hard to paint
smoothly over.
70 -80 PSI is best. Anything over that pressure you are just wasting air &
will not get the best cut from the media.
CFM is the killer. If your air compressor cannot put out at least 15 CFM the
job will be painfully slow, as you will constantly be waiting for the
compressor to make enough air to continue.
Good Luck
Bob G Cape Cod Ma.
> From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.
>
> Tired of all my questions yet?
> I have some rust on the firewall in the engine compartment on either side
of
> the transmission. Getting a grinder down there will be a pain. I'm thinking
of
> low pressure sand blasting. I read soda blasting isn't strong enough for
rust.
> I also have the area where the PDWA brake device is mounted.
> Harbor Freight sells a small unit.
> Anyone want to chime in. Experience. Advice?
> I read to be careful over heating.
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 12 12:51:14 2015
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From: Jimandruthhome@aol.com
Full-name: Jimandruthhome
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2015 14:54:28 -0500
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
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Subject: [6pack] re red striping tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

When I bought new wire wheels and tires for my '71, I had British Wire  
Wheel put red stripes on the Vreedsteins I purchased.  They cut a very  shallow 
dado in the sidewall and fill it with a red rubber compound
 which is vulcanized rather than glued in.  It looks great and  has held up 
very well over the years.  I don't advocate  this method as a 
do-it-yourself project, but I have heard that  there are other outfits that do this.
 
I imagine any less sophisticated method would produce a pretty  fragile 
result at best, even if one could apply paint with neatness, consistent  width, 
and perfect concentricity. 
 
Jim Knight
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Feb 13 09:10:30 2015
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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 10:13:06 -0600
From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.4.0
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
References: <BLU406-EAS4166C51F83B08BBB2ECAFAE80250@phx.gbl>
 <CAC9XxAD9KksCEX9sNFaFkvu4PdcK_3Z6S59Qmnud-RBoF89nkQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <BLU406-EAS100263402578CEDDE5B308480250@phx.gbl>
 <D42EB51AF08C4DB4879ABA7D525A38B3@Ranteer.local>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Sandblasting rust.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

You have to use low pressure or you will warp sheet metal, like 90 psi 
or less.  I like Dupont Starblast.  Takes it off quickly.  I do it 
outside on a driveway and put up a crude fence to catch most of it.  I 
sweep up and reuse the media, so I can usually do a car body with about 
3 bags.  I think they made them cheaper as they went along, because my 
TR250 had color on all the surfaces, top and bottom.
  - Larry

On 2/11/2015 8:43 AM, dave n wrote:
> a few years ago I used crushed up lava.  worked pretty well.  most 
> sand blasting places have a selection of material.
>
> think safety!!!!!
>
> -----Original Message----- From: James_
> Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 10:42 PM
> To: Tom Lofgren
> Cc: 6 Pack
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Sandblasting rust.
>
> Awesome. Thanks for the tip about the tips. I was thinking of going with
> either walnut shells or the oxide.
>
> I dread having to remove the brake and clutch lines and cylinders and 
> brake
> booster to allow unobstructed access to paint the compartment. I have 
> some
> rust in those higher areas too. I plan to blend in the urethane as 
> best as I
> can to avoid painting the entire engine compartment. Especially since 
> I've
> never painted before. But have some left over paint and thought I'd 
> try my
> hand at the less visible engine compartment. I'll leave the outside 
> body paint
> to the pros who aren't just painting in a garage!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/cartravel@pobox.com
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 11:21:36 -0700
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Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Original color of floorpans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Since the subject came up Ill offer up a set of British Motor Heritage floor
plans I have for sale. Got them for a project that I traded for my RV so I
dont need them any longer.

And they are painted on both top and bottom.

Google them and make me a reasonable offer. You only have to pay shipping from
Denver not the UK.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)



On Feb 11, 2015, at 9:16 AM, im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Is it just me, but does the fact that the factory decided to only paint the
> bottom (outside in the weather) of the floor pans with primer have a direct
> connection to why we're all experienced with replacing the same panels? It's
a
> good thing these cars are all so cute, or we wouldn't even be bothering
> discussing them 40+ years later.
> Wow,Sloane :-)69-Six72-Spit
>
>>
>> But if you're installing new floor pans, try to leave the e-coat as intact
>> as possible and then scuff it and paint as explaind - body color on the
>> interior and if you're going for concours, you might try to duplicate the
>> primer color on the bottom sides.
>>
>> Regards,
>> rml
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>
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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2015 17:59:58 -0600
From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.4.0
To: David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com>,  "6pack@autox.team.net >>
 Triumph" <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU406-EAS4166C51F83B08BBB2ECAFAE80250@phx.gbl>
 <CAC9XxAD9KksCEX9sNFaFkvu4PdcK_3Z6S59Qmnud-RBoF89nkQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <BLU406-EAS100263402578CEDDE5B308480250@phx.gbl>
 <D42EB51AF08C4DB4879ABA7D525A38B3@Ranteer.local>
 <54DE2292.10207@pobox.com>
 <CAJ1eQwg+UPea3RAwXQ8M5-RhEZ9ydiXVeL2sm3xYd6Rshayj2g@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Sandblasting rust.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I use an inexpensive 100lb pressure blaster (avoid siphon blasters), 
bought from one of the discount tool outfits.  I think the brand name is 
Brut.  Not sure about grits on Starblast.  It's not an expensive media, 
especially when compared to paint cost.  The flat surfaces are the only 
ones subject to warping, so just be careful with those.  Hold the gun at 
an angle and don't dwell too long in one spot.  This is a dirty nasty 
job.  You also need a decent compressor, like 5 to 7 1/2 hp two stage, 
or you will be waiting a lot.  I'd look for someone you can trust to do 
it.  Do you have kids that will work cheap? Promise to will the car to 
them. Mine would never do the dirty work. I forgot to tell you to strain 
the media through a sieve before reusing.
  - Larry

On 2/13/2015 12:59 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
> Larry;
>
> So what are you using for a gun/nozzle with the StarBlast?
> Is that media only made in one grade/weight?
>
> Dave
>
> On Fri, Feb 13, 2015 at 11:13 AM, Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com 
>
>     You have to use low pressure or you will warp sheet metal, like 90
>     psi or less.  I like Dupont Starblast.  Takes it off quickly.  I
>     do it outside on a driveway and put up a crude fence to catch most
>     of it.  I sweep up and reuse the media, so I can usually do a car
>     body with about 3 bags.  I think they made them cheaper as they
>     went along, because my TR250 had color on all the surfaces, top
>     and bottom.
>      - Larry
>
>
>     On 2/11/2015 8:43 AM, dave n wrote:
>
>         a few years ago I used crushed up lava.  worked pretty well. 
>         most sand blasting places have a selection of material.
>
>         think safety!!!!!
>
>         -----Original Message----- From: James_
>         Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 10:42 PM
>         To: Tom Lofgren
>         Cc: 6 Pack
>         Subject: Re: [6pack] Sandblasting rust.
>
>         Awesome. Thanks for the tip about the tips. I was thinking of
>         going with
>         either walnut shells or the oxide.
>
>         I dread having to remove the brake and clutch lines and
>         cylinders and brake
>         booster to allow unobstructed access to paint the compartment.
>         I have some
>         rust in those higher areas too. I plan to blend in the
>         urethane as best as I
>         can to avoid painting the entire engine compartment.
>         Especially since I've
>         never painted before. But have some left over paint and
>         thought I'd try my
>         hand at the less visible engine compartment. I'll leave the
>         outside body paint
>         to the pros who aren't just painting in a garage!
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>         Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 16 14:50:20 2015
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From: Stuart <stubeatty@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2015 16:54:25 -0500
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: [6pack] Trailer hitch
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I am thinking of installing a hitch on my 76 with a 1 1/4 in receiver so I can
attach my bike rack to it. Does anyone have a hitch or a design I can copy?
Any thoughts or previous experiences would be appreciated.

Stuart Beatty
76 Carmine
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 16 14:55:37 2015
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References: <0AADECD7-6B8E-4918-A18A-6F52960768CA@aol.com>
From: Dave More <tr6@lbcs.ca>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2015 14:58:56 -0700
To: Stuart <stubeatty@aol.com>
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailer hitch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's a great write-up on that very topic. I've seen it myself halfway around
its tour of North America!

http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/28-upgrades/241683-trailer-hitch#24
1683

Cheers,
Dave

> On Feb 16, 2015, at 2:54 PM, Stuart <stubeatty@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I am thinking of installing a hitch on my 76 with a 1 1/4 in receiver so I
can
> attach my bike rack to it. Does anyone have a hitch or a design I can copy?
> Any thoughts or previous experiences would be appreciated.
>
> Stuart Beatty
> 76 Carmine
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 16 16:40:37 2015
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Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2015 16:43:10 -0700
References: <0AADECD7-6B8E-4918-A18A-6F52960768CA@aol.com>
 <EA7C0D40-FCC8-448A-B7A7-1F23C429B65E@lbcs.ca>
To: Dave More <tr6@lbcs.ca>
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Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailer hitch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Love what this MGA owner did and thought about it for my TR6 but never did it.
Lots of ideas to build from even if the dimensions change.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/trailer/th201.htm

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)












On Feb 16, 2015, at 2:58 PM, Dave More <tr6@lbcs.ca> wrote:

> Here's a great write-up on that very topic. I've seen it myself halfway
around
> its tour of North America!
>
>
http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/28-upgrades/241683-trailer-hitch#24
> 1683
>
> Cheers,
> Dave
>
>> On Feb 16, 2015, at 2:54 PM, Stuart <stubeatty@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> I am thinking of installing a hitch on my 76 with a 1 1/4 in receiver so I
> can
>> attach my bike rack to it. Does anyone have a hitch or a design I can
copy?
>> Any thoughts or previous experiences would be appreciated.
>>
>> Stuart Beatty
>> 76 Carmine
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> 6pack@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6@lbcs.ca
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi@comcast.net
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 16 16:56:55 2015
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Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailer hitch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Stuart -

I actually have an entire trailer hitch system for a TR6 (it came with a parts
car I had several years ago). It includes a reinforced center section of the
bumper and a bar that runs under the boot and attaches to the cross bar under
the spare tire well. You can have the whole bumper/hitch/attachment hardware
for $250 plus shipping (but it's pretty heavy). I'll have to get into my
storage area to find it but I'll try to take some photos in the next day or so
if you're interested.

 - Lee

On Mon, February 16, 2015 15:54, Stuart wrote:
> I am thinking of installing a hitch on my 76 with a 1 1/4 in receiver so I
> can attach my bike rack to it. Does anyone have a hitch or a design I can
> copy? Any thoughts or previous experiences would be appreciated.
>
>
> Stuart Beatty
> 76 Carmine
> _______________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 17 17:48:12 2015
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From: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2015 00:52:20 +0000
 FILETIME=[26DBCD80:01D04B15]
Subject: [6pack] need hardtop hardware/seals for Spit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey guys,I bought a kinda rough hard-top for the 72 Spit. I should have
checked the price of the rear window seal first. It's more than I paid for the
top. Over $100 at the normal places in including Spitbits and VB. Anybody
happen to know of a different source. It's only $75 at Rimmer Brothers, but
you can't see how much shipping will be until checkout, and I assume that will
make up the difference in price. I also need all the hardware, 4 bolts and
those little side thingies. Just wondered if anybody might have something like
that sitting around.
thanks,Sloane 69-Six72-Spit
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 18 12:53:57 2015
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Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2015 13:58:39 -0600
From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.4.0
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
References: <0AADECD7-6B8E-4918-A18A-6F52960768CA@aol.com>
 <ced7a9544f5f196c8a33859d3079733d.squirrel@webmail.automate-it.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailer hitch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I used to have a purpose made hitch on my TR250 that I bought from 
JCWhitney.  Its design was similar.  The piece with the ball mounted on 
it went straight back and attached to the bolt that goes through the 
spare tire and crossbrace under the trunk.  Another piece ran behind the 
bumper and attached to the bumper mounts.  It was not a receiver type, 
but you could easily make a receiver hitch with the same design.
  - Larry

On 2/16/2015 6:01 PM, Lee Daniels wrote:
> Hi Stuart -
>
> I actually have an entire trailer hitch system for a TR6 (it came with a parts
> car I had several years ago). It includes a reinforced center section of the
> bumper and a bar that runs under the boot and attaches to the cross bar under
> the spare tire well. You can have the whole bumper/hitch/attachment hardware
> for $250 plus shipping (but it's pretty heavy). I'll have to get into my
> storage area to find it but I'll try to take some photos in the next day or so
> if you're interested.
>
>   - Lee
>
> On Mon, February 16, 2015 15:54, Stuart wrote:
>> I am thinking of installing a hitch on my 76 with a 1 1/4 in receiver so I
>> can attach my bike rack to it. Does anyone have a hitch or a design I can
>> copy? Any thoughts or previous experiences would be appreciated.
>>
>>
>> Stuart Beatty
>> 76 Carmine
>> _______________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/cartravel@pobox.com
_______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Feb 20 14:49:45 2015
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Subject: [6pack] SU HD8 2 inch carbs on a late TR6 manifold for sale
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Cleaning out the shop and found these SU matching carbs on a late TR6 manifold
that I bought years ago. The SU carbs I believe are from a Rover, but you can
look up the tag number on the carbs to be sure. The carbs have a rather unique
set of velocity stacks attached. Ive never seen ones like that before.

The manifold is strictly a late TR6 but the carbs of course should fit on any
manifold matching the HD 4 bolt series.

Make me a reasonable offer. They will go as is on ebay shortly and Id
rather not pay their final value fees if I dont have too.

Thanks
Bud

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 21 18:37:01 2015
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Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2015 01:16:58 +0000 (GMT)
From: wcwellbaum@cox.net
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [6pack] Off Topic--bug eye Sprite
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

  I have a friend restoring a bug eye Sprite.  He has original seats but 
not the seat runners.  How can I get the word out that he is looking for 
a set of seat runners for a bug eye?

Bill Wellbaum
Las Vegas
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 21 19:07:51 2015
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Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2015 18:44:29 -0700
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Off Topic--bug eye Sprite
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wcwellbaum@cox.net wrote:
>   I have a friend restoring a bug eye Sprite.  He has original seats but not the seat runners.  How can I get the word out that he is looking for a set of seat runners for a bug eye?

Spridgets list - http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo

mjb.
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Feb 22 17:28:53 2015
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References: <CAJ1eQwhOk9mQbfi4bN_uWcBgApgLs63+qi4FdNtru7w22gz-0w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2015 16:09:09 -0800
From: Tom Lofgren <tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org>
To: David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com>
Cc: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>, 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Steering Wheel Restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I restored a steering wheel on a '67 Mini Cooper with their kit.  I
followed their instructions exactly, and it turned out great.  It feels
weird to make the cracks wider with a file, but the epoxy fills it all
nicely.

Tom

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 1:42 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hey all ~
>
> Has anyone had any personal experience with restoring their own
> stock steering wheel, using an Eastwood product?
>
> http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=steering+wheel+restoration
>
> I'd love to hear from anyone having first-person experiences,
> including do's and dont's
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Dave Friedlander
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 23 10:32:19 2015
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From: Dennis Costello <djc.tr6@q.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2015 11:19:07 -0600
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe, the Eastwood products are suitable for a rim made of bakelite or a
similar hard material, like the 50s cars. The TR6 wheel is a steel inner
armature with a molded soft rubber type material molded over the armature. I
believe one or more of the main suppliers has offered a replacement in the
past, although I havent purchased one.
I elected to satisfy my curiosity by recasting my wheel rim myself, and found
it to be every bit the challenge I thought it might be. I constructed a mold,
and used a 94 durometer casting urethane to make the rim. I then covered the
rim with leather, which seemed to be like recovering seats; an easy job for a
three armed monkey! All-in-all, it was successful, but not a project I would
readily suggest. I think that the common use of an aftermarket wheel such as
Moto Lita or others is a solution that avoids the restoration difficulties.
Just a free opinion.
Dennis
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 23 19:33:00 2015
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Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2015 18:13:00 -0800
From: Tom Lofgren <tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org>
To: Dennis Costello <djc.tr6@q.com>
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I commented earlier about doing the Mini steering wheel, and I was thinking
later that the TR6 doesn't have that same bakelite material.  Sorry -
should have thought of that before commenting.

Tom

On Mon, Feb 23, 2015 at 9:19 AM, Dennis Costello <djc.tr6@q.com> wrote:

> I believe, the Eastwood products are suitable for a rim made of bakelite
> or a
> similar hard material, like the 50 s cars. The TR6 wheel is a steel inner
>  armature  with a molded soft rubber type material molded over the
> armature. I
> believe one or more of the main suppliers has offered a replacement in the
> past, although I haven t purchased one.
> I elected to satisfy my curiosity by recasting my wheel rim myself, and
> found
> it to be every bit the challenge I thought it might be. I constructed a
> mold,
> and used a 94 durometer casting urethane to make the rim. I then covered
> the
> rim with leather, which seemed to be like recovering seats; an easy job
> for a
> three armed monkey! All-in-all, it was successful, but not a project I
> would
> readily suggest. I think that the common use of an aftermarket wheel such
> as
> Moto Lita or others is a solution that avoids the restoration difficulties.
> Just a free opinion.
> Dennis
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom.lofgren@stanfordalumni.org
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 25 06:08:34 2015
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Received: from isis.mit.edu (isis.mit.edu [18.142.2.157]) by
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Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2015 08:06:24 -0500 (EST)
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] A Quick Lap at Thompson, CT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I posted a You Tube video of one lap from an event last fall the NER/SCCA 
ran at Thompson, CT.

Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1WPaoaWqJ8

You gotta like the Grrrrrrowl of the TR6.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 25 18:04:29 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2015 17:08:54 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[CBA0D5D0:01D05160]
Subject: [6pack] Exhaust system
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I just ordered new pipes in stainless steel. Then I saw a picture of the
tourist trophy system in Moss' site.
Wow. Quite the bling.
Starting to regret the boring SS system I ordered.
What do others think about the high polished system? And it is actually a
little cheaper!
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 25 19:04:41 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2015 18:01:44 -0800
To: 6 Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[2CD8D1C0:01D05168]
Subject: [6pack] W/S frame vinyl-for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I just realized going through my parts that years ago I ordered a W/S vinyl kit. And recently was restoring my W/S and bought a second kit. 
(I'm sure we have all done double ordering at least once!) well, I can't return it and was wondering if anyone on the list wanted to buy it before I through on ePay. 
Still in original wrapping and perfect. I think they sell for around $95.
Let me know. 


bSent from my Atari 2600b
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 26 12:39:24 2015
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Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 11:44:05 -0800
From: Richard Schnyder <richards@hollywoodcenter.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:10.0.2) Gecko/20120216
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To: 6pack@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.3.1424977201.12553.6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 7, Issue 20
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

what is a W/S kit?

On 2/26/2015 11:00 AM, 6pack-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
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>
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."
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> Today's Topics:
>
>     1. Exhaust system (James_)
>     2. W/S frame vinyl-for sale (James_)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2015 17:08:54 -0800
> From: James_<jattr6@hotmail.com>
> To: 6 Pack<6pack@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] Exhaust system
> Message-ID:<BLU406-EAS2930FDA85DA544EDFC1FAB680140@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I just ordered new pipes in stainless steel. Then I saw a picture of the
> tourist trophy system in Moss' site.
> Wow. Quite the bling.
> Starting to regret the boring SS system I ordered.
> What do others think about the high polished system? And it is actually a
> little cheaper!
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2015 18:01:44 -0800
> From: James_<jattr6@hotmail.com>
> To: 6 Pack<6pack@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] W/S frame vinyl-for sale
> Message-ID:<BLU406-EAS344AD81D857529D6CA2A21F80140@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I just realized going through my parts that years ago I ordered a W/S vinyl kit. And recently was restoring my W/S and bought a second kit.
> (I'm sure we have all done double ordering at least once!) well, I can't return it and was wondering if anyone on the list wanted to buy it before I through on ePay.
> Still in original wrapping and perfect. I think they sell for around $95.
> Let me know.
>
>
> bSent from my Atari 2600b
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> 6pack mailing list
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 7, Issue 20
> ************************************

-- 

Richard Schnyder
Hollywood Center Studios
Office: 323-860-0000
Cell:   323-333-2666
RichardS@HollywoodCenter.com
www.HollywoodCenter.com
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Feb 27 19:17:02 2015
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From: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 02:21:42 +0000
 FILETIME=[4ADC9D00:01D052FD]
Subject: [6pack] Goodpart Rear Hub Upgrades - Advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

So I am going crazy this winter with TR6 projects...
Something that has always concerned me were the rear hub bearings.And reading
about 2 folks that have had failures...has me concerned.And to boot, I have
heard a mystery noise at 55mph in the rear...yet no wiggle when i support the
car on jacks...
some overview here: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/CVJ.htm
Regardless, I think I am [scared] convinced into upgrading the original
hubs.So I am trying to understand what is involved and which upgrade to
buy.https://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20
First up: CV versus u-Joints? It sure sounds like I should go with CV.But I
like the ease (no modifications or removal of diff/trailing arm) when going
with the U-Joints.Simply pull out the old and slide in the new. I have a stock
differential. I had it rebuilt due to clunking sound, but I now suspect that
the shopwas incorrect and the clunk (which I still have) is actually worn
splines. Oh well.
So if I go with CV hubs...I read that I should replace the trailer arm
bushings with GoodPart bushings.darn. those were replaced when I had new frame
members welded in.
I also read something about the lug nut studs..."Good Parts hubs use 1-3/8"
wheel studs which are about 3/16" longer than stock"(I assume the original
threads for the lug nuts still match)
Anyone have experience in this upgrade to share advice with me?
Thanks in advance. (Not sure how many folks still read this forum or if I
should post to the large Triumph forum)
James
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 28 06:28:58 2015
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From: Ron <rmweber_99@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 08:30:09 -0500
References: <BLU179-W3CA4C7519FE9FE4B1CAD380120@phx.gbl>
To: James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com>
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Goodpart Rear Hub Upgrades - Advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi James,
I did a write-up on replacing the rear hubs with Goodparts hubs in my 71 TR6 a
few years ago. It can be found in the tech note section of the Central PA
Triumph Club site... (
http://www.cptc.org/tech_tips/Refitting%20New%20Rear%20Hubs%20to%20the%20TR6.
pdf ).

I'm very pleased with the new hubs but went through a similar decision
process. If money was unlimited, I would have put in the Toyota limited slip
differential with the CV shafts but reality and household budget limited me to
the hub swap only.

Ron Weber
71 TR6


> On Feb 27, 2015, at 9:21 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> So I am going crazy this winter with TR6 projects...
> Something that has always concerned me were the rear hub bearings.And
reading
> about 2 folks that have had failures...has me concerned.And to boot, I have
> heard a mystery noise at 55mph in the rear...yet no wiggle when i support
the
> car on jacks...
> some overview here: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/CVJ.htm
> Regardless, I think I am [scared] convinced into upgrading the original
> hubs.So I am trying to understand what is involved and which upgrade to
> buy.https://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20
> First up: CV versus u-Joints? It sure sounds like I should go with CV.But I
> like the ease (no modifications or removal of diff/trailing arm) when going
> with the U-Joints.Simply pull out the old and slide in the new. I have a
stock
> differential. I had it rebuilt due to clunking sound, but I now suspect
that
> the shopwas incorrect and the clunk (which I still have) is actually worn
> splines. Oh well.
> So if I go with CV hubs...I read that I should replace the trailer arm
> bushings with GoodPart bushings.darn. those were replaced when I had new
frame
> members welded in.
> I also read something about the lug nut studs..."Good Parts hubs use 1-3/8"
> wheel studs which are about 3/16" longer than stock"(I assume the original
> threads for the lug nuts still match)
> Anyone have experience in this upgrade to share advice with me?
> Thanks in advance. (Not sure how many folks still read this forum or if I
> should post to the large Triumph forum)
> James
> _______________________________________________
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 28 08:49:55 2015
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU179-W3CA4C7519FE9FE4B1CAD380120@phx.gbl>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 09:40:33 -0600
Subject: Re: [6pack] Goodpart Rear Hub Upgrades - Advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a q45 limited slip differential and goodpart hubs.  we were astounded 
when we put in the differential how quiet it was.  granted, the old diff had 
been telling me for years that it needed to be replaced.  I think both of 
those swaps are well worth doing when the rear end needs work.  that was 
several years and many hard miles since.  no issues.

this car will be my son's some day, so everything I do is with an eye 
towards longevity and reliability (is that statement redundant?)

the cv joints - seems awfully pricey.  I thought about it but decided it 
wasn't worth it.  and no regrets years later.

-----Original Message----- 
From: James_
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 8:21 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Goodpart Rear Hub Upgrades - Advice

So I am going crazy this winter with TR6 projects...
Something that has always concerned me were the rear hub bearings.And 
reading
about 2 folks that have had failures...has me concerned.And to boot, I have
heard a mystery noise at 55mph in the rear...yet no wiggle when i support 
the
car on jacks...
some overview here: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/CVJ.htm
Regardless, I think I am [scared] convinced into upgrading the original
hubs.So I am trying to understand what is involved and which upgrade to
buy.https://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20
First up: CV versus u-Joints? It sure sounds like I should go with CV.But I
like the ease (no modifications or removal of diff/trailing arm) when going
with the U-Joints.Simply pull out the old and slide in the new. I have a 
stock
differential. I had it rebuilt due to clunking sound, but I now suspect that
the shopwas incorrect and the clunk (which I still have) is actually worn
splines. Oh well.
So if I go with CV hubs...I read that I should replace the trailer arm
bushings with GoodPart bushings.darn. those were replaced when I had new 
frame
members welded in.
I also read something about the lug nut studs..."Good Parts hubs use 1-3/8"
wheel studs which are about 3/16" longer than stock"(I assume the original
threads for the lug nuts still match)
Anyone have experience in this upgrade to share advice with me?
Thanks in advance. (Not sure how many folks still read this forum or if I
should post to the large Triumph forum)
James 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 28 15:54:29 2015
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Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 17:30:47 -0500
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: dave@ranteer.com
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AdBTpjKnBfJOJTOCTQKtvMdTJ91pXA==
Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Goodpart Rear Hub Upgrades - Advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

"dave n" wrote:

>this car will be my son's some day, so everything I do is with an eye
towards longevity and reliability (is that statement >redundant?)

 

I think that might be an oxymoron ;-)

 

Dennis Culligan. Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U
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