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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2019 07:33:18 -0500
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] More brakes
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0967023795749721983==

--000000000000d5bbd3058f219081

Hey all,
   Today, before the Houston heat grows too great, I hope to address the
rear brake hydraulics on my '75 TR6 project car. Specifically, I will
inspect all of the pipes, flush them clean, then replace the rear flex
hose. Work from the distribution block on to the new slave cylinders has
already been completed.
   I already finished work on the front system and cleaned up the area.
Here's how it looks now. (Remember, this is to be a nice driver, not a show
car.)

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg

   The switch on the pressure differential warning system, is bad and the
piston seals leak. Until replacement parts can be sourced, the switch port
is sealed with a short 3/8-fine bolt and a thick rubber washer. Doing so
leaves the system a straight through junction, if with a tiny bit of
leakage between chambers.

Rick

--000000000000d5bbd3058f219081
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Hey all,<div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Today, before the =
Houston heat grows too great, I hope to address the rear brake hydraulics o=
n my &#39;75 TR6 project car. Specifically, I will inspect all of the pipes=
, flush them clean, then replace the rear flex hose. Work from the distribu=
tion block on to the new slave cylinders has already been completed.</div><=
div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I already finished work on the front system a=
nd cleaned up the area. Here&#39;s how it looks now. (Remember, this is to =
be a nice driver, not a show car.)<br><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg">http:=
//aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><=
br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The switch on the pressure differen=
tial warning system, is bad and the piston seals leak. Until replacement pa=
rts can be sourced, the switch port is sealed with a short 3/8-fine bolt an=
d a thick rubber washer. Doing so leaves the system a straight through junc=
tion, if with a tiny bit of leakage between chambers.</div><div dir=3D"auto=
"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div></div></div>

--000000000000d5bbd3058f219081--

--===============0967023795749721983==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============0967023795749721983==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 06:43:46 2019
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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2019 08:42:42 -0400
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dwTQjVpk5h075S4SbupSK-khV-SnrLoy+S2hQsZ_=Bhqw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] More brakes
From: Rochlin Robert via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Cc: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============1603635763298201798==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_6C4E570F-9354-4A7E-8329-FB9B6089ABD7"


--Apple-Mail=_6C4E570F-9354-4A7E-8329-FB9B6089ABD7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=us-ascii

Hi Rick,
	I have spare O ring type seals for the brake warning switch =
block.  I can send you a couple if you need them.
	Best,
	Bob

> On Aug 2, 2019, at 8:33 AM, Richard Lindsay via 6pack =
<6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:
>=20
> Hey all,
>    Today, before the Houston heat grows too great, I hope to address =
the rear brake hydraulics on my '75 TR6 project car. Specifically, I =
will inspect all of the pipes, flush them clean, then replace the rear =
flex hose. Work from the distribution block on to the new slave =
cylinders has already been completed.
>    I already finished work on the front system and cleaned up the =
area. Here's how it looks now. (Remember, this is to be a nice driver, =
not a show car.)
>=20
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg =
<http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg>
>=20
>    The switch on the pressure differential warning system, is bad and =
the piston seals leak. Until replacement parts can be sourced, the =
switch port is sealed with a short 3/8-fine bolt and a thick rubber =
washer. Doing so leaves the system a straight through junction, if with =
a tiny bit of leakage between chambers.
>=20
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>=20
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rrochlin@comcast.net
>=20


--Apple-Mail=_6C4E570F-9354-4A7E-8329-FB9B6089ABD7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=us-ascii

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">Hi =
Rick,<div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>I have spare O ring type seals =
for the brake warning switch block. &nbsp;I can send you a couple if you =
need them.</div><div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Best,</div><div class=3D""><span =
class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Bob<br =
class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Aug 2, 2019, at 8:33 AM, Richard Lindsay via 6pack &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">6pack@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D"">Hey all,<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp;Today, =
before the Houston heat grows too great, I hope to address the rear =
brake hydraulics on my '75 TR6 project car. Specifically, I will inspect =
all of the pipes, flush them clean, then replace the rear flex hose. =
Work from the distribution block on to the new slave cylinders has =
already been completed.</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp;I =
already finished work on the front system and cleaned up the area. =
Here's how it looks now. (Remember, this is to be a nice driver, not a =
show car.)<br class=3D""><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><a =
href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg" =
class=3D"">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg</a><br =
class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp;The switch on the pressure =
differential warning system, is bad and the piston seals leak. Until =
replacement parts can be sourced, the switch port is sealed with a short =
3/8-fine bolt and a thick rubber washer. Doing so leaves the system a =
straight through junction, if with a tiny bit of leakage between =
chambers.</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Rick</div></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br class=3D"">Support <a =
href=3D"http://Team.Net" class=3D"">Team.Net</a> <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br class=3D"">Suggested =
annual donation &nbsp;$12.96<br class=3D"">Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br class=3D"">Forums: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br class=3D""><br class=3D""><a =
href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">6pack@autox.team.net</a><br =
class=3D"">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rrochlin@comcast.net<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail=_6C4E570F-9354-4A7E-8329-FB9B6089ABD7--

--===============1603635763298201798==
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============1603635763298201798==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 07:30:46 2019
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To: 6pack@autox.team.net
References: <CAOc+-dwTQjVpk5h075S4SbupSK-khV-SnrLoy+S2hQsZ_=Bhqw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2019 07:30:15 -0600
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/60.8.0
Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [6pack] More brakes
From: Mark J Bradakis via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 10:06:26 2019
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To: 6pack@autox.team.net
References: <CAOc+-dwTQjVpk5h075S4SbupSK-khV-SnrLoy+S2hQsZ_=Bhqw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2019 12:02:49 -0400
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Subject: Re: [6pack] More brakes
From: Bob via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============0639732583598504623==
 boundary="------------81B018C9316A45D1D3ED4D25"
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--------------81B018C9316A45D1D3ED4D25
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Rick,

There used to be someone on Ebay that repaired those units. You buy a 
rebuilt one and turn in your old one as a core. Not sure if the service 
exists today but worth a look.

My rebuilt one is leak free for 10 years with Dot 5.

Bob

On 8/2/19 8:33 AM, Richard Lindsay via 6pack wrote:
> Hey all,
>    Today, before the Houston heat grows too great, I hope to address 
> the rear brake hydraulics on my '75 TR6 project car. Specifically, I 
> will inspect all of the pipes, flush them clean, then replace the rear 
> flex hose. Work from the distribution block on to the new slave 
> cylinders has already been completed.
>    I already finished work on the front system and cleaned up the 
> area. Here's how it looks now. (Remember, this is to be a nice driver, 
> not a show car.)
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg
>
>    The switch on the pressure differential warning system, is bad and 
> the piston seals leak. Until replacement parts can be sourced, the 
> switch port is sealed with a short 3/8-fine bolt and a thick rubber 
> washer. Doing so leaves the system a straight through junction, if 
> with a tiny bit of leakage between chambers.
>
> Rick
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/yellowtr@adelphia.net
>

--------------81B018C9316A45D1D3ED4D25
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p>Rick,</p>
    <p>There used to be someone on Ebay that repaired those units. You
      buy a rebuilt one and turn in your old one as a core. Not sure if
      the service exists today but worth a look.</p>
    <p>My rebuilt one is leak free for 10 years with Dot 5.<br>
    </p>
    <p>Bob<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/2/19 8:33 AM, Richard Lindsay via
      6pack wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAOc+-dwTQjVpk5h075S4SbupSK-khV-SnrLoy+S2hQsZ_=Bhqw@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="auto">Hey all,
        <div dir="auto">   Today, before the Houston heat grows too
          great, I hope to address the rear brake hydraulics on my '75
          TR6 project car. Specifically, I will inspect all of the
          pipes, flush them clean, then replace the rear flex hose. Work
          from the distribution block on to the new slave cylinders has
          already been completed.</div>
        <div dir="auto">   I already finished work on the front system
          and cleaned up the area. Here's how it looks now. (Remember,
          this is to be a nice driver, not a show car.)<br>
          <div dir="auto"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="auto"><a
              href="http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg"
              moz-do-not-send="true">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg</a><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="auto"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="auto">   The switch on the pressure differential
            warning system, is bad and the piston seals leak. Until
            replacement parts can be sourced, the switch port is sealed
            with a short 3/8-fine bolt and a thick rubber washer. Doing
            so leaves the system a straight through junction, if with a
            tiny bit of leakage between chambers.</div>
          <div dir="auto"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="auto">Rick</div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:6pack@autox.team.net">6pack@autox.team.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
  </body>
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--------------81B018C9316A45D1D3ED4D25--

--===============0639732583598504623==
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============0639732583598504623==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 10:30:13 2019
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 <765c1366-fd04-3ca1-5b42-4e196430cb05@adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2019 11:25:45 -0500
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] More brakes
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1096304253627673090==

--000000000000130bf3058f24d067

>
> Hello Friends,
   Today I disassembled my car's rear brakes. The pipes are plugged and the
hoses are perished. I have new pipes and hoses ordered and due tomorrow.
Two of the short pipes out to the rear slave cylinders appear to be NLA but
I have an assortment of new pipes left over from other sets. Two of these
spare pipes will fit just fine.
   I got very dirty.

Rick

On 8/2/19 8:33 AM, Richard Lindsay via 6pack wrote:

> Hey all,
>    Today, before the Houston heat grows too great, I hope to address the
> rear brake hydraulics on my '75 TR6 project car. Specifically, I will
> inspect all of the pipes, flush them clean, then replace the rear flex
> hose. Work from the distribution block on to the new slave cylinders has
> already been completed.
>    I already finished work on the front system and cleaned up the area.
> Here's how it looks now. (Remember, this is to be a nice driver, not a show
> car.)
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731_103230.jpg
>
>    The switch on the pressure differential warning system, is bad and the
> piston seals leak. Until replacement parts can be sourced, the switch port
> is sealed with a short 3/8-fine bolt and a thick rubber washer. Doing so
> leaves the system a straight through junction, if with a tiny bit of
> leakage between chambers.
>
> Rick
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 6pack@autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/yellowtr@adelphia.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000130bf3058f24d067
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padd=
ing-left:1ex"><div text=3D"#000000" bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p></p></div></bloc=
kquote></div><div dir=3D"auto">Hello Friends,</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0=
 =C2=A0Today I disassembled my car&#39;s rear brakes. The pipes are plugged=
 and the hoses are perished. I have new pipes and hoses ordered and due tom=
orrow. Two of the short pipes out to the rear slave cylinders appear to be =
NLA but I have an assortment of new pipes left over from other sets. Two of=
 these spare pipes will fit just fine.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0=
I got very dirty.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</=
div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">On 8/2/19 8:33 AM, Richar=
d Lindsay via
      6pack wrote:</div><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><blockquote=
 class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc soli=
d;padding-left:1ex"><div text=3D"#000000" bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF">
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"auto">Hey all,
        <div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Today, before the Houston heat grows=
 too
          great, I hope to address the rear brake hydraulics on my &#39;75
          TR6 project car. Specifically, I will inspect all of the
          pipes, flush them clean, then replace the rear flex hose. Work
          from the distribution block on to the new slave cylinders has
          already been completed.</div>
        <div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I already finished work on the front=
 system
          and cleaned up the area. Here&#39;s how it looks now. (Remember,
          this is to be a nice driver, not a show car.)<br>
          <div dir=3D"auto"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190731=
_103230.jpg" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://aubard.us/75_Trium=
ph/20190731_103230.jpg</a><br>
          </div>
          <div dir=3D"auto"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The switch on the pressure differe=
ntial
            warning system, is bad and the piston seals leak. Until
            replacement parts can be sourced, the switch port is sealed
            with a short 3/8-fine bolt and a thick rubber washer. Doing
            so leaves the system a straight through junction, if with a
            tiny bit of leakage between chambers.</div>
          <div dir=3D"auto"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class=3D"m_-2553604439181387099mimeAttachmentHeader"></fiel=
dset>
      <pre class=3D"m_-2553604439181387099moz-quote-pre">__________________=
_____________________________
ref=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer=
">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>
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.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class=3D"m_-2553604439181387099moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"ht=
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eam.net/forums</a>

<a class=3D"m_-2553604439181387099moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:=
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ox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack</a>

" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/yellowtr@adelphia.net=
" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://autox.team.net/mailman/option=
s/6pack/yellowtr@adelphia.net</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
  </div>

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 14:32:55 2019
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 oYDMcXTdwRPnziJIuEj3LvatrF0M0fBjCasTMEj3e8fp0Lo7ClIYxUYP
Subject: Re: [6pack] Originality question...
From: Larry Young via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I'm a little late on this one. My TR250 was bought for European 
delivery. I picked it up at the factory in Coventry, so all options were 
factory installed. The options listed in the brochure I purchased from 
are: tonneau cover ($24), whitewall tires ($13), Michelin X tires ($39), 
wire wheels ($77), overdrive ($121), AM radio ($80), AM/FM radio ($120), 
luggage rack ($38), bumper guards ($23). The list could have changed 
later, but these are the standard factory options for the TR250. Cars 
shipped to the US may have had some of them dealer installed. The 
factory installed my luggage rack after I arrived to pick it up and saw 
that a normal suitcase will not fit in the trunk. The rack had a small 
sticker with the Standard/Triumph logo on it. Notice there are no chrome 
wire wheels which you see on many overrestored cars.
Larry Young

On 7/26/2019 9:17 AM, Irv Korey via 6pack wrote:
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 9:09 AM Richard Lindsay via 6pack 
>
>     Was the chrome luggage rack often found on the U.S. spec cars'
>     boot lids, a factory installed option, a dealer installed option,
>     or something aftermarket?
>
> Dealer installed, or aftermarket.
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>


--------------AB70634FD6BA8EBDFBD49038
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    I'm a little late on this one. My TR250 was bought for European
    delivery. I picked it up at the factory in Coventry, so all options
    were factory installed. The options listed in the brochure I
    purchased from are: tonneau cover ($24), whitewall tires ($13),
    Michelin X tires ($39), wire wheels ($77), overdrive ($121), AM
    radio ($80), AM/FM radio ($120), luggage rack ($38), bumper guards
    ($23). The list could have changed later, but these are the standard
    factory options for the TR250. Cars shipped to the US may have had
    some of them dealer installed. The factory installed my luggage rack
    after I arrived to pick it up and saw that a normal suitcase will
    not fit in the trunk. The rack had a small sticker with the
    Standard/Triumph logo on it. Notice there are no chrome wire wheels
    which you see on many overrestored cars.<br>
    Larry Young<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/26/2019 9:17 AM, Irv Korey via
      6pack wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAFWFMyjbh5ZqkMOqBPHGnS1JkYNUPoq-itGLS-v05er2qymrzg@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div dir="ltr"><br>
        </div>
        <br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">
          <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 9:09
            AM Richard Lindsay via 6pack &lt;<a
              href="mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" moz-do-not-send="true">6pack@autox.team.net</a>&gt;
            wrote:<br>
          </div>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
            0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
            rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
            <div dir="auto">Was the chrome luggage rack often found on
              the U.S. spec cars' boot lids, a factory installed option,
              a dealer installed option, or something aftermarket?<br>
            </div>
            <br>
          </blockquote>
          <div> 
            <div>Dealer installed, or aftermarket.</div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>Irv Korey</div>
            <div>74 TR6 CF22767U</div>
            <div>Highland Park, IL</div>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:6pack@autox.team.net">6pack@autox.team.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack</a>


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To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Thread-Topic: [6pack] More brakes
Thread-Index: AQHVSS6WZZNBsRRYkUWmKk/RppbX6aboupDC
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2019 03:05:37 +0000
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Subject: Re: [6pack] More brakes
From: im sloane via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8284761925566157478==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_BN6PR18MB15701BF655228D9E6C6FC1FB8ED80BN6PR18MB1570namp_"

--_000_BN6PR18MB15701BF655228D9E6C6FC1FB8ED80BN6PR18MB1570namp_
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Just my .02 cents on the Pressure Differential switch. They always are a so=
urce of grief. Of course it would be best for it to function correctly and =
to light the BRAKE light if there is an issue. But minus the dash light wor=
king, it seems more safe to have the front and rear systems totally separat=
ed with assorted brake male & female fittings as needed, than to have a dif=
ferential unit that could cause all fluid to leak out of both systems.  I'v=
e helped a buddy do this on his car and he was most happy to end all the fl=
uid leaking. Just keep this in the back of your mind in case you are at wit=
s-end to get the darn thing to stop leaking and the dash-light on or off as=
 necessary.

Now, full disclosure. My 69 Six has had a bolt inserted in place of the swi=
tch since I purchased it in 86 and with no leaks, if it ain't broke I don't=
 fix it.

Sloane :)
69-Six
72-Spit (still waiting for new engine)

________________________________
From: 6pack <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Richard Lindsay via=
 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 2, 2019 12:33 PM
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] More brakes


   The switch on the pressure differential warning system, is bad and the p=
iston seals leak. Until replacement parts can be sourced, the switch port i=
s sealed with a short 3/8-fine bolt and a thick rubber washer. Doing so lea=
ves the system a straight through junction, if with a tiny bit of leakage b=
etween chambers.

Rick

--_000_BN6PR18MB15701BF655228D9E6C6FC1FB8ED80BN6PR18MB1570namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Just my .02 cents on the Pressure Differential switch. They always are a so=
urce of grief. Of course it would be best for it to function correctly and =
to light the BRAKE light if there is an issue. But minus the dash light wor=
king, it seems more safe to have
 the front and rear systems totally separated with assorted brake male &amp=
; female fittings as needed, than to have a differential unit that could ca=
use all fluid to leak out of both systems.&nbsp; I've helped a buddy do thi=
s on his car and he was most happy to end
 all the fluid leaking. Just keep this in the back of your mind in case you=
 are at wits-end to get the darn thing to stop leaking and the dash-light o=
n or off as necessary.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Now, full disclosure. My 69 Six has had a bolt inserted in place of the swi=
tch since I purchased it in 86 and with no leaks, if it ain't broke I don't=
 fix it.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Sloane :)</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
69-Six</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
72-Spit (still waiting for new engine)</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> 6pack &lt;6pack-bounc=
es@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Richard Lindsay via 6pack &lt;6pack@auto=
x.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, August 2, 2019 12:33 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> TR6 &lt;6pack@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [6pack] More brakes</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto">
<div dir=3D"auto">
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">&nbsp; &nbsp;The switch on the pressure differential warn=
ing system, is bad and the piston seals leak. Until replacement parts can b=
e sourced, the switch port is sealed with a short 3/8-fine bolt and a thick=
 rubber washer. Doing so leaves the system a
 straight through junction, if with a tiny bit of leakage between chambers.=
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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--===============8284761925566157478==--

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 Sat, 03 Aug 2019 15:36:41 -0700 (PDT)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2019 17:36:30 -0500
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Almost ready
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8709290826850090126==

--000000000000dfa15d058f3e1bda

Hello friends,
   I write today to share news of project progress. But first, here is a
bit of back story. The car is a '75 TR6.
   Everything mechanical is done on the car except for the rear brakes. All
suspension, front and rear, has been removed, cleaned, refinished and
reinstalled with new bushings. New dampers are installed. New brake
calipers, new slave cylinders, new pads and shoes too. The rotors and brake
drums are turned to resurface and true. New front hydraulic pipes and hoses
are installed. The engine is restored and very strong. The clutch, gearbox,
prop shaft, and third member are all tested good. Aftermarket but
period-correct alloy wheels have been media blasted and powder coated and
sport new tires. Lug nuts and washers are getting powder coated (black)
this week. The car is now about ready to go to the paint shop. End of
backstory.
   The rear brake hydraulic bits are all restored except for painting the
cleaned brake pipes - the NLA ones that are not to be replaced. Those pipes
have been flushed clean with brake cleaner then blown dry. After degreasing
and cleaning the exterior with ScotchBrite, the pipe metal is vulnerable to
corrosion/rust. I will just paint the pipes gray. The other new pipes and
flex hoses are due to arrive Monday. Reassembly will begin then. After a
final bleed, the car will be ready for Carmine Red paint.

Rick

--000000000000dfa15d058f3e1bda
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Hello friends,<div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I write toda=
y to share news of project progress. But first, here is a bit of back story=
. The car is a &#39;75 TR6.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Everything =
mechanical is done on the car except for the rear brakes. All suspension, f=
ront and rear, has been removed, cleaned, refinished and reinstalled with n=
ew bushings. New dampers are installed. New brake calipers, new slave cylin=
ders, new pads and shoes too. The rotors and brake drums are turned to resu=
rface and true. New front hydraulic pipes and hoses are installed. The engi=
ne is restored and very strong. The clutch, gearbox, prop shaft, and third =
member are all tested good. Aftermarket but period-correct alloy wheels hav=
e been media blasted and powder coated and sport new tires. Lug nuts and wa=
shers are getting powder coated (black) this week. The car is now about rea=
dy to go to the paint shop. End of backstory.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0=
 =C2=A0The rear brake hydraulic bits are all restored except for painting t=
he cleaned brake pipes - the NLA ones that are not to be replaced. Those pi=
pes have been flushed clean with brake cleaner then blown dry. After degrea=
sing and cleaning the exterior with ScotchBrite, the pipe metal is vulnerab=
le to corrosion/rust. I will just paint the pipes gray. The other new pipes=
 and flex hoses are due to arrive Monday. Reassembly will begin then. After=
 a final bleed, the car will be ready for Carmine Red paint.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div></div>

--000000000000dfa15d058f3e1bda--

--===============8709290826850090126==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============8709290826850090126==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 16:53:59 2019
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 Sat, 03 Aug 2019 15:53:50 -0700 (PDT)
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2019 17:53:39 -0500
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Wheels on my project
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0416717236765505683==

--0000000000002d6afc058f3e59cb

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg

--0000000000002d6afc058f3e59cb

<div dir="auto"><a href="http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg</a></div>

--0000000000002d6afc058f3e59cb--

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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============0416717236765505683==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 18:09:57 2019
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To: "'Yahoo via 6pack'" <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOc+-dwRGAtzoPDxXV3JE=SHTxD_WnqE8NfrE2OQe6u56J6vjA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2019 19:09:22 -0500
 boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0034_01D54A2E.F5C83F30"
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Content-Language: en-us
 Wq8DVCSSzHURHy3debRVO4kYoGfWx8RlVjI=
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Wheels on my project
From: dave via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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I believe those are slotted rims?  Nice!  How did you polish them?

=20

From: 6pack <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Lindsay =
via 6pack
Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2019 5:54 PM
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Wheels on my project

=20

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg


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xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" =
xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta =
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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>I believe =
those are slotted rims?=C2=A0 Nice!=C2=A0 How did you polish =
them?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> 6pack =
&lt;6pack-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Richard Lindsay =
via 6pack<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, August 3, 2019 5:54 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
TR6 &lt;6pack@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> [6pack] Wheels on my =
project<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><a =
href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg">http://aubard.us=
/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg</a><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></body></ht=
ml>
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave@ranteer.com


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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 18:45:38 2019
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References: <CAOc+-dwRGAtzoPDxXV3JE=SHTxD_WnqE8NfrE2OQe6u56J6vjA@mail.gmail.com>
 <003301d54a58$de9daaf0$9bd900d0$@ranteer.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2019 19:44:50 -0500
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] FW: Wheels on my project
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2803145997940380163==

--000000000000d9a6c8058f3fe697

   Thanks. They were on the car when I got it.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000373.JPG

   The wheels were media blasted with very fine corundum to clean the
alloy, then powder coated with Porsche Silver wheel color powder. The hub
caps are plastic and refinished with landau black paint for plastic. They
are attached with black socket head cap screws. The logo centers were
custom made to order. The lugnuts and washers were painted black but
scratched easily. They are now getting powder coated black.

Rick

On Sat, Aug 3, 2019, 7:09 PM dave via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:

> I believe those are slotted rims?  Nice!  How did you polish them?
>
>
>
> *From:* 6pack <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Richard
> Lindsay via 6pack
> *Sent:* Saturday, August 3, 2019 5:54 PM
> *To:* TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [6pack] Wheels on my project
>
>
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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>
>

--000000000000d9a6c8058f3fe697
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Thanks. They were on the c=
ar when I got it.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=
<a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000373.JPG" target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000373.JPG</a></div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0The wheels were media blasted with ve=
ry fine corundum to clean the alloy, then powder coated with Porsche Silver=
 wheel color powder. The hub caps are plastic and refinished with landau bl=
ack paint for plastic. They are attached with black socket head cap screws.=
 The logo centers were custom made to order. The lugnuts and washers were p=
ainted black but scratched easily. They are now getting powder coated black=
.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick<br><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat,=
 Aug 3, 2019, 7:09 PM dave via 6pack &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team=
.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">6pack@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wro=
te:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;b=
order-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"blu=
e" vlink=3D"purple"><div class=3D"m_3047069395104228527m_-26763041730978575=
95WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I believe those are slotted rims?=C2=
=A0 Nice!=C2=A0 How did you polish them?<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> 6pack &lt=
;<a href=3D"mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">6pack-bounces@autox.team.net</a>&gt; <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Richard Lindsay via 6pack<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, August 3, 2019 5:54=
 PM<br><b>To:</b> TR6 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" rel=3D"no=
referrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">6pack@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br><b>S=
ubject:</b> [6pack] Wheels on my project<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><a href=3D"http:/=
/aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg</a><u></u><=
u></u></p></div></div></div>_______________________________________________=
<br>
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l</a><br>
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info/6pack</a><br>
<br>
richardolindsay@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay@gma=
il.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div></div></div>

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 18:48:26 2019
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References: <CAOc+-dwRGAtzoPDxXV3JE=SHTxD_WnqE8NfrE2OQe6u56J6vjA@mail.gmail.com>
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 <CAOc+-dz3xwtWQSFvZmSaZHeVT_eNwbWOgMMPpo1DHOuzKDZ8ww@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2019 19:47:43 -0500
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] FW: Wheels on my project
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8443785467975617237==

--0000000000001ae7b4058f3ff1b5

   In all of my car projects I try to follow this ideal: If I can't make it
'correct' (affordably), I will make it look 'intentional', and period
correct whenever possible.

Rick

On Sat, Aug 3, 2019, 7:44 PM Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:

>    Thanks. They were on the car when I got it.
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000373.JPG
>
>    The wheels were media blasted with very fine corundum to clean the
> alloy, then powder coated with Porsche Silver wheel color powder. The hub
> caps are plastic and refinished with landau black paint for plastic. They
> are attached with black socket head cap screws. The logo centers were
> custom made to order. The lugnuts and washers were painted black but
> scratched easily. They are now getting powder coated black.
>
> Rick
>
> On Sat, Aug 3, 2019, 7:09 PM dave via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I believe those are slotted rims?  Nice!  How did you polish them?
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* 6pack <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Richard
>> Lindsay via 6pack
>> *Sent:* Saturday, August 3, 2019 5:54 PM
>> *To:* TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* [6pack] Wheels on my project
>>
>>
>>
>> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay@gmail.com
>>
>>

--0000000000001ae7b4058f3ff1b5
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0In all of my car projects I try to foll=
ow this ideal: If I can&#39;t make it &#39;correct&#39; (affordably), I wil=
l make it look &#39;intentional&#39;, and period correct whenever possible.=
</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick<br><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat,=
 Aug 3, 2019, 7:44 PM Richard Lindsay &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:richardolindsay=
@gmail.com">richardolindsay@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;=
padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Thanks. =
They were on the car when I got it.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>=
<div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000373.JPG" rel=
=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1=
000373.JPG</a></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0The wheel=
s were media blasted with very fine corundum to clean the alloy, then powde=
r coated with Porsche Silver wheel color powder. The hub caps are plastic a=
nd refinished with landau black paint for plastic. They are attached with b=
lack socket head cap screws. The logo centers were custom made to order. Th=
e lugnuts and washers were painted black but scratched easily. They are now=
 getting powder coated black.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"=
auto">Rick<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Aug 3, 2019, 7:09 PM dave via 6pack &lt;<a hre=
f=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_=
blank">6pack@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gm=
ail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-le=
ft:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple"><div class=3D"m_=
-3044705762851589890m_3047069395104228527m_-2676304173097857595WordSection1=
"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I believe those are slotted rims?=C2=A0 Nice!=C2=
=A0 How did you polish them?<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u=
>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> 6pack &lt;<a href=3D"=
mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">6pack-bounces@autox.team.net</a>&gt; <b>On Behalf Of <=
/b>Richard Lindsay via 6pack<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, August 3, 2019 5:54 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> TR6 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">6pack@autox.team.net</a>&g=
t;<br><b>Subject:</b> [6pack] Wheels on my project<u></u><u></u></p><p clas=
s=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><a href=
=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg" rel=3D"noreferrer nore=
ferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_1=
04056.jpg</a><u></u><u></u></p></div></div></div>__________________________=
_____________________<br>
rer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net=
/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferr=
er noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a>=
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>
<br>
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rrer" target=3D"_blank">6pack@autox.team.net</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack" rel=3D"noreferrer =
noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/m=
ailman/listinfo/6pack</a><br>
<br>
richardolindsay@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardol=
indsay@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div></div></div>
</blockquote></div></div></div>

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--===============8443785467975617237==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 12:13:10 2019
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 Sun, 04 Aug 2019 11:13:00 -0700 (PDT)
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2019 13:12:49 -0500
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Best laid plans
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5379901024575969256==

--000000000000b0bcf6058f4e8a74

Best laid plans. The threads in one of the rear distribution block's ports
are too worn. The pipe fitting won't tighten. Steel into brass is great the
first time around. After that, the threads can suffer. More new parts are
on order.

Rick

--000000000000b0bcf6058f4e8a74
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div style=3D"" dir=3D"auto">Best laid plans. The threads=
 in one of the rear distribution block&#39;s ports are too worn. The pipe f=
itting won&#39;t tighten. Steel into brass is great the first time around. =
After that, the threads can suffer. More new parts are on order.</div><div =
dir=3D"auto" style=3D""><br></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"">Rick</div></=
div>

--000000000000b0bcf6058f4e8a74--

--===============5379901024575969256==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============5379901024575969256==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 11:49:17 2019
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 Mon, 05 Aug 2019 04:36:50 -0700 (PDT)
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2019 06:36:39 -0500
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] A tale of two cars (a.k.a.Too quiet here)
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4252520317269250582==

--000000000000b6f285058f5d1f08

Hello Friends,
   Its very quiet here now. I have a few words to share, breaking that
silence. First a plan for the Maserati Biturbo and second, an update on the
other project eating my retirement hours: my TR6.
   In a few days, my wife and I are attending a destination wedding
followed shortly thereafter by a short cruise. In total I will be away from
the shop for 11 days. My car work is necessarily going on hold. Before that
hiatus begins I will exercise, or at least start all of my cars as I have
done semi-religiously.

   The professional shop that said they would diagnose and repair my
Biturbo, has quit returning my calls. I can only assume that they do not
want the work. That's okay. Money saved. I have other plans.
   As I wrote earlier, I intend to remove the engine from my parts car.
With the engine on the engine stand, access to it's turbos will be much
simpler. This exercise will also familiarize myself with the extraction
peculiarities, useful later when I service my 35k miles car.
   I have also purchased a used oil cooled turbo from a 2.5 liter Biturbo.
The ebay cost was marginally less than the rebuild kit that I purchased
earlier from Lenny at Auto-Italia. I will rebuild this unit in advance of
retrieving the two turbos from the parts car. At the very least, doing so
will be a learning exercise.

   In other news; Work on my Triumph TR6 is once again on hold. Every
mechanical system on the car is restored except for the rear brake
hydraulics. With mostly new or freshened parts in hand I began reassembly
yesterday morning. All went well until I attached the cross pipe to the
two-way distribution block. The steel pipe fitting threaded in okay but as
I snugged the bubble flair fitting down, the brass threads in the block cut
free and the fitting became loose once again. The distribution block is
damaged beyond repair. Fortunately, this is one of the parts that is
available in the spares market. $23 later, a new block is on order and on
its way. A further $16 invested and a new cross pipe is coming too. New
threads to mate with new threads.

   That's it from north-west Houston.

Rick

--000000000000b6f285058f5d1f08
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">Hello Friends,</sp=
an><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Its very=
 quiet here now. I have a few words to share, breaking that silence. First =
a plan for the Maserati Biturbo and second, an update on the other project =
eating my retirement hours: my TR6.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-fa=
mily:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0In a few days, my wife and I are attending a =
destination wedding followed shortly thereafter by a short cruise. In total=
 I will be away from the shop for 11 days. My car work is necessarily going=
 on hold. Before that hiatus begins I will exercise, or at least start all =
of my cars as I have done semi-religiously.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D=
"font-family:sans-serif"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The professional shop that said they would diagnose=
 and repair my Biturbo, has quit returning my calls. I can only assume that=
 they do not want the work. That&#39;s okay. Money saved. I have other plan=
s.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0As =
I wrote earlier, I intend to remove the engine from my parts car. With=C2=
=A0the engine on the engine stand,=C2=A0access to it&#39;s turbos will be m=
uch simpler. This exercise will also familiarize=C2=A0myself with the extra=
ction peculiarities, useful later when I service my 35k miles car.</div><di=
v dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I have also pu=
rchased a used oil cooled turbo from a 2.5 liter Biturbo. The ebay cost was=
 marginally less than the rebuild kit that I purchased earlier from Lenny a=
t Auto-Italia. I will rebuild this unit in advance of retrieving the two tu=
rbos from the parts car. At the very least, doing so will be a learning exe=
rcise.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif"><br></div><d=
iv dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0In other news=
; Work on my Triumph TR6 is once again on hold. Every mechanical system on =
the car is restored except for the rear brake hydraulics. With mostly new o=
r freshened parts in hand I began reassembly yesterday morning. All went we=
ll until I attached the cross pipe to the two-way distribution block. The s=
teel pipe fitting threaded in okay but as I snugged the bubble flair fittin=
g down, the brass threads in the block cut free and the fitting became loos=
e once again. The distribution block is damaged beyond repair. Fortunately,=
 this is one of the parts that is available in the spares market.=C2=A0<spa=
n class=3D"money">$23</span>=C2=A0later, a new block is on order and on its=
 way. A further=C2=A0<span class=3D"money">$16</span>=C2=A0invested and a n=
ew cross pipe is coming too. New threads to mate with new threads.</div><di=
v dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"=
 style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0That&#39;s it from north-wes=
t Houston.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif"><br></di=
v><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">Rick</div></div>

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--===============4252520317269250582==--

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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2019 01:28:36 +0000 (UTC)
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3203.1564879676.2437.6pack@autox.team.net>
 CPU iPhone OS 12_3_1 like Mac OS X) AppleWebKit/605.1.15 (KHTML,
 like Gecko) Version/12.1.1 Mobile/15E148 Safari/604.1
Subject: Re: [6pack] Almost Ready
From: John Cyganowski via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

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 I am also returning home tomorrow after 11 days. Hopefully some parts will=
 be waiting for me. The bubble flairs can be very hard. If you sock down on=
 the ferrule nuts too hard, the metal at the compression end of the nut can=
 distort and ride up over the bubble flair, resulting in a leak. Then you w=
ill need to fabricate or buy new lines with the correct ferrule nuts.=C2=A0
John Cyg70 DamsonCC52927LO
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<html><head></head><body><div class="ydp11977a55yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div></div>
        <div>I am also returning home tomorrow after 11 days. Hopefully some parts will be waiting for me. The bubble flairs can be very hard. If you sock down on the ferrule nuts too hard, the metal at the compression end of the nut can distort and ride up over the bubble flair, resulting in a leak. Then you will need to fabricate or buy new lines with the correct ferrule nuts.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>John Cyg</div><div>70 Damson</div><div>CC52927LO</div></div></body></html>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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--===============4571329154450055635==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 12:47:53 2019
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2019 18:46:01 +0000 (UTC)
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1564855201.30671.6pack@autox.team.net>
 CPU iPhone OS 12_3_1 like Mac OS X) AppleWebKit/605.1.15 (KHTML,
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Subject: Re: [6pack] PDWA - Pressure Differential Warning Actuator
From: John Cyganowski via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0705147700665709287==
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 I will toss in a few more cents to this discussion.=C2=A0
Firstly, what is this thing and what does it do? =C2=A0I have heard =E2=80=
=9Cregulator=E2=80=9D, =E2=80=9Cbrake circuit balancer=E2=80=9D or =E2=80=
=9Cvalve=E2=80=9D etc. =C2=A0It is none of these. It is a pressure switch. =
Period. It is a part of a safety system to alert the driver of an unsafe co=
ndition in the brake system. It is one the few safety system in these cars.=
 One side of the switch is open to the front brake circuit and the other si=
de of the switch is open to the rear brake circuit. There is a cross over t=
hat contains a metal shuttle. When the driver steps on the brakes, if the p=
ressure in one circuit is lower than the pressure in the other circuit, the=
 shuttle moves toward the low pressure circuit depressing the switch mounte=
d on the cross over establishing a ground and lighting the brake fault ligh=
t.=C2=A0
The front and back circuits are Isolated by seals on the shuttle. There are=
 2 types of PDWAs. One uses double o-ring seals on each side of the shuttle=
 to prevent a fluid leak and to allow pressure to be maintained in the circ=
uit. The replacement o-rings are available from the usual suspects. This is=
 the most common type of pressure switch. There is another type with seals =
that are like little moulded rubber cups mounted ends of the shuttle. I don=
=E2=80=99t know if these seals are still made.
Like any seal they can get old and disintegrate (they swell with contact to=
 glycol based brake fluids) and they should be replaced. It is a very simil=
ar with wear components like the brake pads and shoes. They wear out and ha=
ve to be replaced. When the seals fail, the individual circuits do not inte=
rmix. Because the brake circuits are both under pressure, the fluid looks f=
or the path of least resistance and it leaks out the threads of the actuato=
r switch. The leaking fluid will eat your paint quick undiscovered.=C2=A0
It is neither hard nor difficult to remedy the seals in the PDWA and keep a=
 working safety system that could possibly save your life or the life of yo=
ur passenger. =C2=A0But it is your car and we all have our own threshold of=
 risk. I think it is irresponsible to recommend that someone make modificat=
ions to defeat a safety system on a mission critical system like brakes. =
=C2=A0YMMV.=C2=A0
John Cyg70 DamsonCC9252LO

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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp9ab9db8ayahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px=
;"><div></div>
        <div>I will toss in a few more cents to this discussion.&nbsp;</div=
><div><br></div><div>Firstly, what is this thing and what does it do? &nbsp=
;I have heard =E2=80=9Cregulator=E2=80=9D, =E2=80=9Cbrake circuit balancer=
=E2=80=9D or =E2=80=9Cvalve=E2=80=9D etc. &nbsp;It is none of these. It is =
a pressure switch. Period. It is a part of a safety system to alert the dri=
ver of an unsafe condition in the brake system. It is one the few safety sy=
stem in these cars. One side of the switch is open to the front brake circu=
it and the other side of the switch is open to the rear brake circuit. Ther=
e is a cross over that contains a metal shuttle. When the driver steps on t=
he brakes, if the pressure in one circuit is lower than the pressure in the=
 other circuit, the shuttle moves toward the low pressure circuit depressin=
g the switch mounted on the cross over establishing a ground and lighting t=
he brake fault light.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>The front and back cir=
cuits are Isolated by seals on the shuttle. There are 2 types of PDWAs. One=
 uses double o-ring seals on each side of the shuttle to prevent a fluid le=
ak and to allow pressure to be maintained in the circuit. The replacement o=
-rings are available from the usual suspects. This is the most common type =
of pressure switch. There is another type with seals that are like little m=
oulded rubber cups mounted ends of the shuttle. I don=E2=80=99t know if the=
se seals are still made.</div><div><br></div><div>Like any seal they can ge=
t old and disintegrate (they swell with contact to glycol based brake fluid=
s) and they should be replaced. It is a very similar with wear components l=
ike the brake pads and shoes. They wear out and have to be replaced. When t=
he seals fail, the individual circuits do not intermix. Because the brake c=
ircuits are both under pressure, the fluid looks for the path of least resi=
stance and it leaks out the threads of the actuator switch. The leaking flu=
id will eat your paint quick undiscovered.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>I=
t is neither hard nor difficult to remedy the seals in the PDWA and keep a =
working safety system that could possibly save your life or the life of you=
r passenger. &nbsp;But it is your car and we all have our own threshold of =
risk. I think it is irresponsible to recommend that someone make modificati=
ons to defeat a safety system on a mission critical system like brakes. &nb=
sp;YMMV.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>John Cyg</div><div>70 Damson</div><=
div>CC9252LO</div><div><br></div></div></body></html>
------=_Part_1960694_556307337.1565117161116--

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============0705147700665709287==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  9 22:32:29 2019
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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2019 23:31:47 -0500
To: 6pack@autox.team.net,
 triumphs@autox.team.net
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.5.2 [SVN]
 please include it with any abuse report
Subject: [6pack] Jim Clark tribute in The Grand Tour episode
From: Lee Daniels via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

I had just about written off The Grand Tour, as the humor had become clunky
and the real car talk had become thin. Then I watched episode 5 of season 3
tonight. A couple of decent tests/reviews, and yes some juvenile humor, such
as Jeremy ice-racing a Lambo Urus vs. Abbie Eaton in a Porsche, on a
penis-shaped track.

But then --- the tour-de-force --- a 20-minute historical tribute to Jim
Clark, with plenty of photos and footage. Oh, my. They include interviews with
a couple of his colleagues, who tear up a little - as did I.

And Richard Hammond gets to drive the very Lotus 25 that Clark himself drove!

If you have Amazon Prime, watch this one. It's episode 5 of Season 3, titled
"An Itchy Urus" (of course). If you don't have an hour, jump to 00:36:00 and
watch the last 22 minutes, you'll be glad you did.

 Lee
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 WrIe1fQewYdCp2wWLKBUujn3DnGbyQ56/4OAZvq9Sw==
 Sat, 10 Aug 2019 05:13:21 -0700 (PDT)
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2019 07:13:09 -0500
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] A little luck
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7346060739840918264==

--00000000000082bd0f058fc237cd

Morning gang,
   With a little luck my grandson and I will compete repairs to the TR6
rear brakes today. When done it will be ready for the paint shop.

Rick

--00000000000082bd0f058fc237cd
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Morning gang,<div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0With a little=
 luck my grandson and I will compete repairs to the TR6 rear brakes today. =
When done it will be ready for the paint shop.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br><=
/div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div></div>

--00000000000082bd0f058fc237cd--

--===============7346060739840918264==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============7346060739840918264==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 10 10:41:23 2019
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 Sat, 10 Aug 2019 09:34:22 -0700 (PDT)
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2019 11:34:06 -0500
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Success
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,
   We had a wonderfully successful morning today. We got all of the
TR6's rear plumbing installed. Its now all new - Master cylinder to
and through the calipers and slave cylinders.
   We ran out of time and it got too hot to finish a proper bleed but
we did flow brake fluid through and found no leaks. I filled the
reservoir compartments then with the MityVac, I pulled fluid through
each corner. After a week away at a wedding, a friend will help me
bleed the brakes properly with the pedal.
   Here's a picture of one rear corner, taken and shared just because
it looks nice.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190810_112143.jpg

Rick
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 14:15:58 2019
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 Mon, 12 Aug 2019 13:15:22 -0700 (PDT)
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2019 15:15:11 -0500
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Anticipation
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0655249173320978581==

--00000000000002f8fb058ff12fe0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello Friends,
   With my '75 TR6 heading to the paint shop for a nice two-stage Carmine
Red respray, I find myself getting excited about the reassembly process. I
have a new beige interior waiting to go in after I get the brown carpet
installed. Let me share a few pictures to better tell some of the story.

   First up, here is the interior, stripped and ready for reassembly. The
inner paint is Rustoleum burgundy paint, tinted darker with leftover black
paint. The goal here is rust proofing, not 'pretty'. All of the metal is
sound and rust free.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190311_151429.jpg

   The carpets will be dark brown with black gators on the handbrake and
gear lever. Here's the tunnel cover, already upholstered and waiting to go
in.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190324_090543.jpg

   The black vinyl bits of the dash are all new and in their boxes waiting.
The original wooden dash was water damaged and de-laminating. The walnut
veneer was peeling off. Here's how it looked upon arrival at my shop.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000380.JPG

   I carefully removed the instruments, lights and controls then lifted
away the plywood dashboard. After cleaning, my first step was stabilizing
and restoring the wood. I did so by re-cementing all the lamina of the
plywood with Gorilla Glue for Wood.
   Once that process was complete and the glue cured, I painted (read:
saturated) the entire dashboard with Minwax Wood Hardener. Two coats of
that product left the original plywood substrate (almost as) strong as new,
if ugly. I next sanded all surfaces in preparation for the next step: new
veneer.
   Okay, by now you're probably thinking, "Why did he go to all that
trouble when new, beautiful dashboards are available?" The answer is
simple. Its a labor of love. The pleasure is in the 'doing' as much so as
the result. Okay, with that out of the way...
   While waiting for glue and hardeners to cure, I tested stains on scraps
of veneer. Sadly I didn't document the colors I used but I remember it was
two Minwax stains, appied one over the other. But I'm getting ahead of
myself.
   I thought about the Carmine Red paint choice (original) and the beige
upholstery (color also original) then looked through my stash of veneer. I
had a sheet of walnut but it was straight grain and offered little
'interest'. Also laying about was a sheet of curly maple veneer. I found it
interesting so I tested the stain choice. My decision was made.
   Back at the plywood I cleaned away all sanding dust, painted on a coat
of glue and applied the veneer. I rolled out all the air bubbles then
weighted down the veneer with every book and gallon paint can that I had
sitting about. Two days later I trimmed the edges and roughly cut the
larger openings with an Exacto knife. A couple of hours with the Dremel and
a sanding disk had the openings routed in. A small grind stone in the
Dremel finished the small holes. My garage was covered in fine sawdust as
one might imagine so I swept and vacuumed for another day.
   With the veneer carefully sanded with #400 sandpaper, and vacuumed
clean, I applied the first coat of stain. A day later, the second and final
color was applied.  Two days after that, the first of three coats of
urethane clear coat went on. Here's how it looks.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190116_111637.jpg

   The color is not quite as vibrant as the camera's flash makes it appear,
but it does complement the beige upholstery. The =C3=BCber clever ones amon=
g you
may notice that I did not cut the hole for the dash light rheostat! It is
to be omitted. The instruments are going back in with non-dimmable LED
lamps. And speaking of instruments...

   The gauges and lamps came apart for cleaning, testing and refinishing.
They were a mess, as anticipated, but no repairs were needed.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_111736.jpg

   The black trim on most of the chrome bezels was damaged. I stripped it
off, cleaned the chrome and reassembled a couple of the gauges. They just
didn't look right so back apart they came. I primered then sprayed all the
bezels with satin black and that did the trick, especially against the
lighter wood dash. Here's how they look, awaiting reassembly.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_125147.jpg

   New knobs and switches are in hand. The wiper switch had died, as had
the headlight master switch. The warning light bezels cleaned up okay so
they will (probably) be reused.

   That's it for now. If interested, I'll share engine, wheels, brakes,
suspension, etc., restoration stories. Until then, I hope you enjoyed the
post as much as I enjoyed reliving it.

Rick

--00000000000002f8fb058ff12fe0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Hello Friends,<div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0With my &#39=
;75 TR6 heading to the paint shop for a nice two-stage Carmine Red respray,=
 I find myself getting excited about the reassembly process. I have a new b=
eige interior waiting to go in after I get the brown carpet installed. Let =
me share a few pictures to better tell some of the story.=C2=A0</div><div d=
ir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0First up, here is the =
interior, stripped and ready for reassembly. The inner paint is Rustoleum b=
urgundy paint, tinted darker with leftover black paint. The goal here is ru=
st proofing, not &#39;pretty&#39;. All of the metal is sound and rust free.=
</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubar=
d.us/75_Triumph/20190311_151429.jpg">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190311_1=
51429.jpg</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0=
 =C2=A0The carpets will be dark brown with black gators on the handbrake an=
d gear lever. Here&#39;s the tunnel cover, already upholstered and waiting =
to go in.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"htt=
p://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190324_090543.jpg">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/2=
0190324_090543.jpg</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"aut=
o">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The black vinyl bits of the dash are all new and in their b=
oxes waiting. The original wooden dash was water damaged and de-laminating.=
 The walnut veneer was peeling off. Here&#39;s how it looked upon arrival a=
t my shop.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"ht=
tp://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000380.JPG">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P100038=
0.JPG</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0I carefully removed the instruments, lights and controls then lifted awa=
y the plywood dashboard. After cleaning, my first step was stabilizing and =
restoring the wood. I did so by re-cementing all the lamina of the plywood =
with Gorilla Glue for Wood.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Once that p=
rocess was complete and the glue cured, I painted (read: saturated) the ent=
ire dashboard with Minwax Wood Hardener. Two coats of that product left the=
 original plywood substrate (almost as) strong as new, if ugly. I next sand=
ed all surfaces in preparation for the next step: new veneer.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Okay, by now you&#39;re probably thinking, &quot;Why=
 did he go to all that trouble when new, beautiful dashboards are available=
?&quot; The answer is simple. Its a labor of love. The pleasure is in the &=
#39;doing&#39; as much so as the result. Okay, with that out of the way...<=
/div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0While waiting for glue and hardeners to=
 cure, I tested stains on scraps of veneer. Sadly I didn&#39;t document the=
 colors I used but I remember it was two Minwax stains, appied one over the=
 other. But I&#39;m getting ahead of myself.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =
=C2=A0I thought about the Carmine Red paint choice (original) and the beige=
 upholstery (color also original) then looked through my stash of veneer. I=
 had a sheet of walnut but it was straight grain and offered little &#39;in=
terest&#39;. Also laying about was a sheet of curly maple veneer. I found i=
t interesting so I tested the stain choice. My decision was made.</div><div=
 dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Back at the plywood I cleaned away all sanding d=
ust, painted on a coat of glue and applied the veneer. I rolled out all the=
 air bubbles then weighted down the veneer with every book and gallon paint=
 can that I had sitting about. Two days later I trimmed the edges and rough=
ly cut the larger openings with an Exacto knife. A couple of hours with the=
 Dremel and a sanding disk had the openings routed in. A small grind stone =
in the Dremel finished the small holes. My garage was covered in fine sawdu=
st as one might imagine so I swept and vacuumed for another day.</div><div =
dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0With the veneer carefully sanded with #400 sandpa=
per, and vacuumed clean, I applied the first coat of stain. A day later, th=
e second and final color was applied.=C2=A0 Two days after that, the first =
of three coats of urethane clear coat went on. Here&#39;s how it looks.</di=
v><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us=
/75_Triumph/20190116_111637.jpg">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190116_11163=
7.jpg</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0The color is not quite as vibrant as the camera&#39;s flash makes it app=
ear, but it does complement the beige upholstery. The =C3=BCber clever ones=
 among you may notice that I did not cut the hole for the dash light rheost=
at! It is to be omitted. The instruments are going back in with non-dimmabl=
e LED lamps. And speaking of instruments...</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></di=
v><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The gauges and lamps came apart for cleani=
ng, testing and refinishing. They were a mess, as anticipated, but no repai=
rs were needed.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=
=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_111736.jpg">http://aubard.us/75_Tr=
iumph/20190113_111736.jpg</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The black trim on most of the chrome bezels was dama=
ged. I stripped it off, cleaned the chrome and reassembled a couple of the =
gauges. They just didn&#39;t look right so back apart they came. I primered=
 then sprayed all the bezels with satin black and that did the trick, espec=
ially against the lighter wood dash. Here&#39;s how they look, awaiting rea=
ssembly.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http=
://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_125147.jpg">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20=
190113_125147.jpg</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto=
">=C2=A0 =C2=A0New knobs and switches are in hand. The wiper switch had die=
d, as had the headlight master switch. The warning light bezels cleaned up =
okay so they will (probably) be reused.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0That&#39;s it for now. If interested, I&#39;ll=
 share engine, wheels, brakes, suspension, etc., restoration stories. Until=
 then, I hope you enjoyed the post as much as I enjoyed reliving it.</div><=
div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div></div>

--00000000000002f8fb058ff12fe0--

--===============0655249173320978581==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============0655249173320978581==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 16:11:22 2019
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References: <CAOc+-dz7WWOxWk0P4+B04i2qevkNnECxwUzq5ZX1UAPzNaWHVw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2019 17:11:12 -0500
To: "Richard Lindsay" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.5.2 [SVN]
 please include it with any abuse report
Subject: Re: [6pack] Anticipation
From: Lee Daniels via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Cc: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

Nice update, Rick. Thanks!
Regarding "Why did he go to all that trouble when new, beautiful dashboards
are available?" - I agree with you - part of the joy is in the doing.
I did a similar re-boot of a Spitfire dash, but nearly 30 years ago.

Happy motoring!
 Lee

On Mon, August 12, 2019 15:15, Richard Lindsay via 6pack wrote:
> Hello Friends,
> With my '75 TR6 heading to the paint shop for a nice two-stage Carmine
> Red respray, I find myself getting excited about the reassembly process. I
> have a new beige interior waiting to go in after I get the brown carpet
> installed. Let me share a few pictures to better tell some of the story.
>
> First up, here is the interior, stripped and ready for reassembly. The
> inner paint is Rustoleum burgundy paint, tinted darker with leftover black
> paint. The goal here is rust proofing, not 'pretty'. All of the metal is =
sound
> and rust free.
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190311_151429.jpg
>
>
> The carpets will be dark brown with black gators on the handbrake and
> gear lever. Here's the tunnel cover, already upholstered and waiting to g=
o in.
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190324_090543.jpg
>
>
> The black vinyl bits of the dash are all new and in their boxes waiting.
> The original wooden dash was water damaged and de-laminating. The walnut
> veneer was peeling off. Here's how it looked upon arrival at my shop.
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000380.JPG
>
>
> I carefully removed the instruments, lights and controls then lifted
> away the plywood dashboard. After cleaning, my first step was stabilizing=
 and
> restoring the wood. I did so by re-cementing all the lamina of the plywood
> with Gorilla Glue for Wood. Once that process was complete and the glue c=
ured,
> I painted (read:
> saturated) the entire dashboard with Minwax Wood Hardener. Two coats of t=
hat
> product left the original plywood substrate (almost as) strong as new, if
> ugly. I next sanded all surfaces in preparation for the next step: new ve=
neer.
>  Okay, by now you're probably thinking, "Why did he go to all that
> trouble when new, beautiful dashboards are available?" The answer is simp=
le.
> Its a labor of love. The pleasure is in the 'doing' as much so as
> the result. Okay, with that out of the way... While waiting for glue and
> hardeners to cure, I tested stains on scraps of veneer. Sadly I didn't
> document the colors I used but I remember it was two Minwax stains, appie=
d one
> over the other. But I'm getting ahead of myself. I thought about the Carm=
ine
> Red paint choice (original) and the beige
> upholstery (color also original) then looked through my stash of veneer. =
I had
> a sheet of walnut but it was straight grain and offered little 'interest'.
> Also laying about was a sheet of curly maple veneer. I found it
> interesting so I tested the stain choice. My decision was made. Back at t=
he
> plywood I cleaned away all sanding dust, painted on a coat of glue and ap=
plied
> the veneer. I rolled out all the air bubbles then weighted down the veneer
> with every book and gallon paint can that I had sitting about. Two days l=
ater
> I trimmed the edges and roughly cut the
> larger openings with an Exacto knife. A couple of hours with the Dremel a=
nd a
> sanding disk had the openings routed in. A small grind stone in the Dremel
> finished the small holes. My garage was covered in fine sawdust as one mi=
ght
> imagine so I swept and vacuumed for another day. With the veneer carefully
> sanded with #400 sandpaper, and vacuumed clean, I applied the first coat =
of
> stain. A day later, the second and final color was applied.  Two days aft=
er
> that, the first of three coats of urethane clear coat went on. Here's how=
 it
> looks.
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190116_111637.jpg
>
>
> The color is not quite as vibrant as the camera's flash makes it appear,
> but it does complement the beige upholstery. The =C3=BCber clever ones am=
ong you
> may notice that I did not cut the hole for the dash light rheostat! It is=
 to
> be omitted. The instruments are going back in with non-dimmable LED lamps=
. And
> speaking of instruments...
>
> The gauges and lamps came apart for cleaning, testing and refinishing.
> They were a mess, as anticipated, but no repairs were needed.
>
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_111736.jpg
>
>
> The black trim on most of the chrome bezels was damaged. I stripped it
> off, cleaned the chrome and reassembled a couple of the gauges. They just
> didn't look right so back apart they came. I primered then sprayed all the
> bezels with satin black and that did the trick, especially against the li=
ghter
> wood dash. Here's how they look, awaiting reassembly.
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_125147.jpg
>
>
> New knobs and switches are in hand. The wiper switch had died, as had
> the headlight master switch. The warning light bezels cleaned up okay so =
they
> will (probably) be reused.
>
> That's it for now. If interested, I'll share engine, wheels, brakes,
> suspension, etc., restoration stories. Until then, I hope you enjoyed the=
 post
> as much as I enjoyed reliving it.
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lee@automate-it.com
>
>
>

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

.team.net


From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 16:21:49 2019
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References: <CAOc+-dz7WWOxWk0P4+B04i2qevkNnECxwUzq5ZX1UAPzNaWHVw@mail.gmail.com>
 <a24623bb6e971617912c415b5cde3618.squirrel@automate-it.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2019 17:18:28 -0500
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Anticipation
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1575751743179944028==

--0000000000000cf6f1058ff2e8d2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Thanks Lee,
   I'm heading to a destination wedding...and I don't care for weddings.
So...
   I will write up some of the other restoration steps and post them
here...unless I am advised to do otherwise.

Rick


On Mon, Aug 12, 2019, 5:11 PM Lee Daniels <lee@automate-it.com> wrote:

> Nice update, Rick. Thanks!
> Regarding "Why did he go to all that trouble when new, beautiful dashboar=
ds
> are available?" - I agree with you - part of the joy is in the doing.
> I did a similar re-boot of a Spitfire dash, but nearly 30 years ago.
>
> Happy motoring!
>  Lee
>
> On Mon, August 12, 2019 15:15, Richard Lindsay via 6pack wrote:
> > Hello Friends,
> > With my '75 TR6 heading to the paint shop for a nice two-stage Carmine
> > Red respray, I find myself getting excited about the reassembly process=
.
> I
> > have a new beige interior waiting to go in after I get the brown carpet
> > installed. Let me share a few pictures to better tell some of the story=
.
> >
> > First up, here is the interior, stripped and ready for reassembly. The
> > inner paint is Rustoleum burgundy paint, tinted darker with leftover
> black
> > paint. The goal here is rust proofing, not 'pretty'. All of the metal i=
s
> sound
> > and rust free.
> >
> > http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190311_151429.jpg
> >
> >
> > The carpets will be dark brown with black gators on the handbrake and
> > gear lever. Here's the tunnel cover, already upholstered and waiting to
> go in.
> >
> > http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190324_090543.jpg
> >
> >
> > The black vinyl bits of the dash are all new and in their boxes waiting=
.
> > The original wooden dash was water damaged and de-laminating. The walnu=
t
> > veneer was peeling off. Here's how it looked upon arrival at my shop.
> >
> > http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000380.JPG
> >
> >
> > I carefully removed the instruments, lights and controls then lifted
> > away the plywood dashboard. After cleaning, my first step was
> stabilizing and
> > restoring the wood. I did so by re-cementing all the lamina of the
> plywood
> > with Gorilla Glue for Wood. Once that process was complete and the glue
> cured,
> > I painted (read:
> > saturated) the entire dashboard with Minwax Wood Hardener. Two coats of
> that
> > product left the original plywood substrate (almost as) strong as new, =
if
> > ugly. I next sanded all surfaces in preparation for the next step: new
> veneer.
> >  Okay, by now you're probably thinking, "Why did he go to all that
> > trouble when new, beautiful dashboards are available?" The answer is
> simple.
> > Its a labor of love. The pleasure is in the 'doing' as much so as
> > the result. Okay, with that out of the way... While waiting for glue an=
d
> > hardeners to cure, I tested stains on scraps of veneer. Sadly I didn't
> > document the colors I used but I remember it was two Minwax stains,
> appied one
> > over the other. But I'm getting ahead of myself. I thought about the
> Carmine
> > Red paint choice (original) and the beige
> > upholstery (color also original) then looked through my stash of veneer=
.
> I had
> > a sheet of walnut but it was straight grain and offered little
> 'interest'.
> > Also laying about was a sheet of curly maple veneer. I found it
> > interesting so I tested the stain choice. My decision was made. Back at
> the
> > plywood I cleaned away all sanding dust, painted on a coat of glue and
> applied
> > the veneer. I rolled out all the air bubbles then weighted down the
> veneer
> > with every book and gallon paint can that I had sitting about. Two days
> later
> > I trimmed the edges and roughly cut the
> > larger openings with an Exacto knife. A couple of hours with the Dremel
> and a
> > sanding disk had the openings routed in. A small grind stone in the
> Dremel
> > finished the small holes. My garage was covered in fine sawdust as one
> might
> > imagine so I swept and vacuumed for another day. With the veneer
> carefully
> > sanded with #400 sandpaper, and vacuumed clean, I applied the first coa=
t
> of
> > stain. A day later, the second and final color was applied.  Two days
> after
> > that, the first of three coats of urethane clear coat went on. Here's
> how it
> > looks.
> >
> > http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190116_111637.jpg
> >
> >
> > The color is not quite as vibrant as the camera's flash makes it appear=
,
> > but it does complement the beige upholstery. The =C3=BCber clever ones =
among
> you
> > may notice that I did not cut the hole for the dash light rheostat! It
> is to
> > be omitted. The instruments are going back in with non-dimmable LED
> lamps. And
> > speaking of instruments...
> >
> > The gauges and lamps came apart for cleaning, testing and refinishing.
> > They were a mess, as anticipated, but no repairs were needed.
> >
> >
> > http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_111736.jpg
> >
> >
> > The black trim on most of the chrome bezels was damaged. I stripped it
> > off, cleaned the chrome and reassembled a couple of the gauges. They ju=
st
> > didn't look right so back apart they came. I primered then sprayed all
> the
> > bezels with satin black and that did the trick, especially against the
> lighter
> > wood dash. Here's how they look, awaiting reassembly.
> >
> > http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_125147.jpg
> >
> >
> > New knobs and switches are in hand. The wiper switch had died, as had
> > the headlight master switch. The warning light bezels cleaned up okay s=
o
> they
> > will (probably) be reused.
> >
> > That's it for now. If interested, I'll share engine, wheels, brakes,
> > suspension, etc., restoration stories. Until then, I hope you enjoyed
> the post
> > as much as I enjoyed reliving it.
> >
> > Rick
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> >
> > 6pack@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> >
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lee@automate-it.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>

--0000000000000cf6f1058ff2e8d2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div>Thanks Lee,<br>=C2=A0 =C2=A0I&#39;m heading to a des=
tination wedding...and I don&#39;t care for weddings. So...</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I will write up some of the other restoration steps =
and post them here...unless I am advised to do otherwise.</div><div dir=3D"=
auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick<br><br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote=
" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Aug 12, 2019, =
5:11 PM Lee Daniels &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:lee@automate-it.com">lee@automate=
-it.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"=
margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Nice update,=
 Rick. Thanks!<br>
Regarding &quot;Why did he go to all that trouble when new, beautiful dashb=
oards<br>
are available?&quot; - I agree with you - part of the joy is in the doing.<=
br>
I did a similar re-boot of a Spitfire dash, but nearly 30 years ago.<br>
<br>
Happy motoring!<br>
=C2=A0Lee<br>
<br>
On Mon, August 12, 2019 15:15, Richard Lindsay via 6pack wrote:<br>
&gt; Hello Friends,<br>
&gt; With my &#39;75 TR6 heading to the paint shop for a nice two-stage Car=
mine<br>
&gt; Red respray, I find myself getting excited about the reassembly proces=
s. I<br>
&gt; have a new beige interior waiting to go in after I get the brown carpe=
t<br>
&gt; installed. Let me share a few pictures to better tell some of the stor=
y.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; First up, here is the interior, stripped and ready for reassembly. The=
<br>
&gt; inner paint is Rustoleum burgundy paint, tinted darker with leftover b=
lack<br>
&gt; paint. The goal here is rust proofing, not &#39;pretty&#39;. All of th=
e metal is sound<br>
&gt; and rust free.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; <a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190311_151429.jpg" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190311_=
151429.jpg</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; The carpets will be dark brown with black gators on the handbrake and<=
br>
&gt; gear lever. Here&#39;s the tunnel cover, already upholstered and waiti=
ng to go in.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; <a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190324_090543.jpg" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190324_=
090543.jpg</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; The black vinyl bits of the dash are all new and in their boxes waitin=
g.<br>
&gt; The original wooden dash was water damaged and de-laminating. The waln=
ut<br>
&gt; veneer was peeling off. Here&#39;s how it looked upon arrival at my sh=
op.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; <a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000380.JPG" rel=3D"noreferrer=
 noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000380.JPG</a>=
<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; I carefully removed the instruments, lights and controls then lifted<b=
r>
&gt; away the plywood dashboard. After cleaning, my first step was stabiliz=
ing and<br>
&gt; restoring the wood. I did so by re-cementing all the lamina of the ply=
wood<br>
&gt; with Gorilla Glue for Wood. Once that process was complete and the glu=
e cured,<br>
&gt; I painted (read:<br>
&gt; saturated) the entire dashboard with Minwax Wood Hardener. Two coats o=
f that<br>
&gt; product left the original plywood substrate (almost as) strong as new,=
 if<br>
&gt; ugly. I next sanded all surfaces in preparation for the next step: new=
 veneer.<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 Okay, by now you&#39;re probably thinking, &quot;Why did he go t=
o all that<br>
&gt; trouble when new, beautiful dashboards are available?&quot; The answer=
 is simple.<br>
&gt; Its a labor of love. The pleasure is in the &#39;doing&#39; as much so=
 as<br>
&gt; the result. Okay, with that out of the way... While waiting for glue a=
nd<br>
&gt; hardeners to cure, I tested stains on scraps of veneer. Sadly I didn&#=
39;t<br>
&gt; document the colors I used but I remember it was two Minwax stains, ap=
pied one<br>
&gt; over the other. But I&#39;m getting ahead of myself. I thought about t=
he Carmine<br>
&gt; Red paint choice (original) and the beige<br>
&gt; upholstery (color also original) then looked through my stash of venee=
r. I had<br>
&gt; a sheet of walnut but it was straight grain and offered little &#39;in=
terest&#39;.<br>
&gt; Also laying about was a sheet of curly maple veneer. I found it<br>
&gt; interesting so I tested the stain choice. My decision was made. Back a=
t the<br>
&gt; plywood I cleaned away all sanding dust, painted on a coat of glue and=
 applied<br>
&gt; the veneer. I rolled out all the air bubbles then weighted down the ve=
neer<br>
&gt; with every book and gallon paint can that I had sitting about. Two day=
s later<br>
&gt; I trimmed the edges and roughly cut the<br>
&gt; larger openings with an Exacto knife. A couple of hours with the Dreme=
l and a<br>
&gt; sanding disk had the openings routed in. A small grind stone in the Dr=
emel<br>
&gt; finished the small holes. My garage was covered in fine sawdust as one=
 might<br>
&gt; imagine so I swept and vacuumed for another day. With the veneer caref=
ully<br>
&gt; sanded with #400 sandpaper, and vacuumed clean, I applied the first co=
at of<br>
&gt; stain. A day later, the second and final color was applied.=C2=A0 Two =
days after<br>
&gt; that, the first of three coats of urethane clear coat went on. Here&#3=
9;s how it<br>
&gt; looks.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; <a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190116_111637.jpg" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190116_=
111637.jpg</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; The color is not quite as vibrant as the camera&#39;s flash makes it a=
ppear,<br>
&gt; but it does complement the beige upholstery. The =C3=BCber clever ones=
 among you<br>
&gt; may notice that I did not cut the hole for the dash light rheostat! It=
 is to<br>
&gt; be omitted. The instruments are going back in with non-dimmable LED la=
mps. And<br>
&gt; speaking of instruments...<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; The gauges and lamps came apart for cleaning, testing and refinishing.=
<br>
&gt; They were a mess, as anticipated, but no repairs were needed.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; <a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_111736.jpg" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_=
111736.jpg</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; The black trim on most of the chrome bezels was damaged. I stripped it=
<br>
&gt; off, cleaned the chrome and reassembled a couple of the gauges. They j=
ust<br>
&gt; didn&#39;t look right so back apart they came. I primered then sprayed=
 all the<br>
&gt; bezels with satin black and that did the trick, especially against the=
 lighter<br>
&gt; wood dash. Here&#39;s how they look, awaiting reassembly.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; <a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_125147.jpg" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_=
125147.jpg</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; New knobs and switches are in hand. The wiper switch had died, as had<=
br>
&gt; the headlight master switch. The warning light bezels cleaned up okay =
so they<br>
&gt; will (probably) be reused.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; That&#39;s it for now. If interested, I&#39;ll share engine, wheels, b=
rakes,<br>
&gt; suspension, etc., restoration stories. Until then, I hope you enjoyed =
the post<br>
&gt; as much as I enjoyed reliving it.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Rick<br>
&gt; _______________________________________________<br>
&gt; Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"no=
referrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><=
br>
&gt; Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.96<br>
&gt; Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer nor=
eferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
&gt; Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer noref=
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; <a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noref=
errer">6pack@autox.team.net</a><br>
&gt; <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6=
pack</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
&gt; <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lee@automate-it=
.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net=
/mailman/options/6pack/lee@automate-it.com</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
<br>
</blockquote></div></div></div>

--0000000000000cf6f1058ff2e8d2--

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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2019 19:26:03 -0400
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To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Inspirational updates, Rich.  Good job.  Thx.
From: daybell7 via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
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Thread-Topic: [TR] Jim Clark tribute in The Grand Tour episode
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Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Jim Clark tribute in The Grand Tour episode
From: Stan Foster via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

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Thanks Lee. I lost interest in the Top Gear trio years ago but I very much =
enjoyed that tribute to Jim Clark.

Stan
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Lee Daniels <=
lee@automate-it.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2019 12:31:47 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@autox.team.net>; triumphs@autox.team.net <t=
riumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Jim Clark tribute in The Grand Tour episode

I had just about written off The Grand Tour, as the humor had become clunky
and the real car talk had become thin. Then I watched episode 5 of season 3
tonight. A couple of decent tests/reviews, and yes some juvenile humor, suc=
h
as Jeremy ice-racing a Lambo Urus vs. Abbie Eaton in a Porsche, on a
penis-shaped track.

But then --- the tour-de-force --- a 20-minute historical tribute to Jim
Clark, with plenty of photos and footage. Oh, my. They include interviews w=
ith
a couple of his colleagues, who tear up a little - as did I.

And Richard Hammond gets to drive the very Lotus 25 that Clark himself drov=
e!

If you have Amazon Prime, watch this one. It's episode 5 of Season 3, title=
d
"An Itchy Urus" (of course). If you don't have an hour, jump to 00:36:00 an=
d
watch the last 22 minutes, you'll be glad you did.

 Lee
** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archiv=
e

tr6.com

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>
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<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"direction:ltr; margin:0; padding:0; font-family:=
sans-serif; font-size:11pt; color:black">
Thanks Lee. I lost interest in the Top Gear trio years ago but I very much =
enjoyed that tribute to Jim Clark.<br>
<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"direction:ltr; margin:0; padding:0; font-family:=
sans-serif; font-size:11pt; color:black">
Stan</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" =
color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triump=
hs-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Lee Daniels &lt;lee@automate-it.=
com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, August 10, 2019 12:31:47 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> 6pack@autox.team.net &lt;6pack@autox.team.net&gt;; triumphs@auto=
x.team.net &lt;triumphs@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] Jim Clark tribute in The Grand Tour episode</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
<font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt;">
<div class=3D"PlainText">I had just about written off The Grand Tour, as th=
e humor had become clunky<br>
and the real car talk had become thin. Then I watched episode 5 of season 3=
<br>
tonight. A couple of decent tests/reviews, and yes some juvenile humor, suc=
h<br>
as Jeremy ice-racing a Lambo Urus vs. Abbie Eaton in a Porsche, on a<br>
penis-shaped track.<br>
<br>
But then --- the tour-de-force --- a 20-minute historical tribute to Jim<br=
>
Clark, with plenty of photos and footage. Oh, my. They include interviews w=
ith<br>
a couple of his colleagues, who tear up a little - as did I.<br>
<br>
And Richard Hammond gets to drive the very Lotus 25 that Clark himself drov=
e!<br>
<br>
If you have Amazon Prime, watch this one. It's episode 5 of Season 3, title=
d<br>
&quot;An Itchy Urus&quot; (of course). If you don't have an hour, jump to 0=
0:36:00 and<br>
watch the last 22 minutes, you'll be glad you did.<br>
<br>
&nbsp;Lee<br>
** triumphs@autox.team.net **<br>
<br>
ate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team=
.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>&nbsp;
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/stan@redtr6.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan@redtr6.com</a><br>
</div>
</span></font>
</body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============8172173612838394426==--

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To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [6pack] Anticipation
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Subject: Re: [6pack] Anticipation
From: im sloane via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3339865314613395107==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_BN6PR18MB1570C67A68B8F4816AC352468ED20BN6PR18MB1570namp_"

--_000_BN6PR18MB1570C67A68B8F4816AC352468ED20BN6PR18MB1570namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Just a silly suggestion for you, but in the right hands might be of interes=
t.

That omitted dash light rheostat knob might make a neat pull knob for your =
emergency hood release, and save the original appearance.


Sloane :)

________________________________
From: 6pack <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Lee Daniels via 6pa=
ck <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2019 10:11 PM
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Anticipation

Nice update, Rick. Thanks!
Regarding "Why did he go to all that trouble when new, beautiful dashboards
are available?" - I agree with you - part of the joy is in the doing.
I did a similar re-boot of a Spitfire dash, but nearly 30 years ago.


> but it does complement the beige upholstery. The =C3=BCber clever ones am=
ong you
> may notice that I did not cut the hole for the dash light rheostat! It is=
 to
> be omitted. The instruments are going back in with non-dimmable LED lamps=
. And
> speaking of instruments...
>
> The gauges and lamps came apart for cleaning, testing and refinishing.
> They were a mess, as anticipated, but no repairs were needed.
>
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_111736.jpg
>
>
> The black trim on most of the chrome bezels was damaged. I stripped it
> off, cleaned the chrome and reassembled a couple of the gauges. They just
> didn't look right so back apart they came. I primered then sprayed all th=
e
> bezels with satin black and that did the trick, especially against the li=
ghter
> wood dash. Here's how they look, awaiting reassembly.
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_125147.jpg
>
>
> New knobs and switches are in hand. The wiper switch had died, as had
> the headlight master switch. The warning light bezels cleaned up okay so =
they
> will (probably) be reused.
>
> That's it for now. If interested, I'll share engine, wheels, brakes,
> suspension, etc., restoration stories. Until then, I hope you enjoyed the=
 post
> as much as I enjoyed reliving it.
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lee@automate-it.com
>
>
>

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

otmail.com


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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Just a silly suggestion for you, but in the right hands might be of interes=
t.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
That omitted dash light rheostat knob might make a neat pull knob for your =
emergency hood release, and save the original appearance.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Sloane :)</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> 6pack &lt;6pack-bounc=
es@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Lee Daniels via 6pack &lt;6pack@autox.te=
am.net&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, August 12, 2019 10:11 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Richard Lindsay &lt;richardolindsay@gmail.com&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> TR6 &lt;6pack@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [6pack] Anticipation</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"BodyFragment"><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt"=
>
<div class=3D"PlainText">Nice update, Rick. Thanks!<br>
Regarding &quot;Why did he go to all that trouble when new, beautiful dashb=
oards<br>
are available?&quot; - I agree with you - part of the joy is in the doing.<=
br>
I did a similar re-boot of a Spitfire dash, but nearly 30 years ago.<br>
<br>
<br>
&gt; but it does complement the beige upholstery. The =C3=BCber clever ones=
 among you<br>
&gt; may notice that I did not cut the hole for the dash light rheostat! It=
 is to<br>
&gt; be omitted. The instruments are going back in with non-dimmable LED la=
mps. And<br>
&gt; speaking of instruments...<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; The gauges and lamps came apart for cleaning, testing and refinishing.=
<br>
&gt; They were a mess, as anticipated, but no repairs were needed.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; <a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_111736.jpg">http://aub=
ard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_111736.jpg</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; The black trim on most of the chrome bezels was damaged. I stripped it=
<br>
&gt; off, cleaned the chrome and reassembled a couple of the gauges. They j=
ust<br>
&gt; didn't look right so back apart they came. I primered then sprayed all=
 the<br>
&gt; bezels with satin black and that did the trick, especially against the=
 lighter<br>
&gt; wood dash. Here's how they look, awaiting reassembly.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; <a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_125147.jpg">http://aub=
ard.us/75_Triumph/20190113_125147.jpg</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; New knobs and switches are in hand. The wiper switch had died, as had<=
br>
&gt; the headlight master switch. The warning light bezels cleaned up okay =
so they<br>
&gt; will (probably) be reused.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; That's it for now. If interested, I'll share engine, wheels, brakes,<b=
r>
&gt; suspension, etc., restoration stories. Until then, I hope you enjoyed =
the post<br>
&gt; as much as I enjoyed reliving it.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Rick<br>
&gt; _______________________________________________<br>
&gt; Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
&gt; Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.96<br>
&gt; Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/a=
rchive</a><br>
&gt; Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/for=
ums</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; 6pack@autox.team.net<br>
&gt; <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
&gt; <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lee@automate-it=
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r>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
m.net/donate.html</a><br>
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<br>
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<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack">http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/listinfo/6pack</a><br>
<br>
im_sloane@hotmail.com">
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============3339865314613395107==--

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 15:07:13 -1000
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Engine restoration, abbreviated
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3756810770040065896==

--0000000000004a920a0590096194

Hello again Friends,
   The following is an abbreviated story, with pictures, of the
resurrection of my TR6 engine. The car hadn't run in decades, I am told,
but the engine looked pretty good. Here's a first look.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000408.JPG

   First step was to pull the plugs, squirt in about 1cc of oil, and turn
the engine over by hand. Everything turned smoothly. I next changed the oil
and filter, connected a battery, pulled the fuses out, and spun the engine
for a second or two on the starter. Everything turned smoothly.
   Next step, a compression test. Given a 1975 U.S. specification engine
with a compression ratio of 7.75:1, the perfect static pressure would be
about 114psi. My engine's initial (cold) compression readings are:






*1  115 psi 2  106 psi 3  103 psi 4  111 psi 5  102 psi 6  111 psi*

   Considering that this engine hadn't run in ages and the condition of the
valve and their seats was unknown, I decided to *not* open the engine
unless further tests indicated that doing so was warranted.
   I next removed the valve cover and found a clean rocker shaft and
springs. And with the cover of off, I cleaned and refinished it. Lots of
other bits got cleaned and refinished at the same time.
   The waterpump and thermostat were replaced. All hoses are new. The
radiator was flushed and pressure tested. A new fan belt was installed and
the cooling system was flushed.
   The Z-S carbs were rebuilt and reinstalled on new gaskets. The fuel line
was disconnected and flushed clean. The tank was boiled out and no
corrosion was found.
   Earlier I posted a picture or two of the electric fuel pump I used.
Here's one of the pictures again.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190722_091448.jpg

   I removed all the non-functional emissions bits including the air
injection plumbing. The pipe fittings on the manifold were not coming off
by any means known to man so...I sawed off the pipes and plugged them with
bolts and ultra high temperature cement. Here's how they looked before
'surgery'.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190514_091212.jpg

   Before going on and on, as I am want to do, here is the engine and it's
bay. This is before balancing the carbs and installing the refinished air
cleaner with a new element. It now starts easily and runs great!

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190515_120747.jpg

   I've left out the bit about omitting a waterpump bolt and causing a
leak. And probably other little issues like a new alternator, but you get
the gist.

Rick

--0000000000004a920a0590096194
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Hello again Friends,<div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The fo=
llowing is an abbreviated story, with pictures, of the resurrection of my T=
R6 engine. The car hadn&#39;t run in decades, I am told, but the engine loo=
ked pretty good. Here&#39;s a first look.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000408.JPG=
" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000408=
.JPG</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0First step was to pull the plugs, squirt in about 1cc of oil, and turn t=
he engine over by hand. Everything turned smoothly. I next changed the oil =
and filter, connected a battery, pulled the fuses out, and spun the engine =
for a second or two on the starter. Everything turned smoothly.=C2=A0</div>=
<div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Next step, a compression test. Given a 1975 =
U.S. specification engine with a compression ratio of 7.75:1, the perfect s=
tatic pressure would be about 114psi. My engine&#39;s=C2=A0<span style=3D"f=
ont-family:sans-serif">initial (cold) compression readings are:</span></div=
><div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div><div dir=3D"auto"><font color=3D"#f44336"><b>1 =C2=A0115 psi<br>
2 =C2=A0106 psi<br>
3 =C2=A0103 psi<br>
4 =C2=A0111 psi<br>
5 =C2=A0102 psi<br>
6 =C2=A0111 psi</b></font><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><font color=3D"#f4433=
6"><b><br></b></font></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Considering that =
this engine hadn&#39;t run in ages and the condition of the valve and their=
 seats was unknown, I decided to <u>not</u> open the engine unless further =
tests indicated that doing so was warranted.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0I next removed the valve cover and found a clean rocker shaft =
and springs. And with the cover of off, I cleaned and refinished it. Lots o=
f other bits got cleaned and refinished at the same time.</div><div dir=3D"=
auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The waterpump and thermostat were replaced. All hoses ar=
e new. The radiator was flushed and pressure tested. A new fan belt was ins=
talled and the cooling system was flushed.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =
=C2=A0The Z-S carbs were rebuilt and reinstalled on new gaskets. The fuel l=
ine was disconnected and flushed clean. The tank was boiled out and no corr=
osion was found.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Earlier I posted a pic=
ture or two of the electric fuel pump I used. Here&#39;s one of the picture=
s again.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http=
://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190722_091448.jpg" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noref=
errer">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190722_091448.jpg</a><br></div><div di=
r=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I removed all the non-f=
unctional emissions bits including the air injection plumbing. The pipe fit=
tings on the manifold were not coming off by any means known to man so...I =
sawed off the pipes and plugged them with bolts and ultra high temperature =
cement. Here&#39;s how they looked before=C2=A0 &#39;surgery&#39;.</div><di=
v dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_T=
riumph/20190514_091212.jpg" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://aub=
ard.us/75_Triumph/20190514_091212.jpg</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></=
div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Before going on and on, as I am want to =
do, here is the engine and it&#39;s bay. This is before balancing the carbs=
 and installing the refinished air cleaner with a new element. It now start=
s easily and runs great!</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"=
><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190515_120747.jpg" target=3D"_bla=
nk" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190515_120747.jpg</a><=
br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I&#39;v=
e left out the bit about omitting a waterpump bolt and causing a leak. And =
probably other little issues like a new alternator, but you get the gist.</=
div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div></div>

--0000000000004a920a0590096194--

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 20:35:47 2019
Return-Path: <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net>
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References: <CAOc+-dyymiLk+kpbiUpLy7u+AOGykVK4ffte4WfMGAKQcQkuyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 21:29:05 -0500
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine restoration, abbreviated
From: Greg Lemon via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4830559854007718630==

--00000000000022755705900a8662

Richard,

I have enjoyed the story of your TR6 ressurection.  When I did my TR250
motor I did tear it down, a 90,000 plus mile car, the machinist polished
the crank, and honed the notes.  I put on new rings and bearings.  Point
being you may be on the right path leaving it alone, they can apparently do
considerable miles without too much wear.

One note, don't forget to check crank float or end play.  The thrust
washers on the crank are a known fail point.  I seem to recall they can be
replaced by dropping the pan and sliding the bearing out.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 8:07 PM Richard Lindsay via 6pack <
6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hello again Friends,
>    The following is an abbreviated story, with pictures, of the
> resurrection of my TR6 engine. The car hadn't run in decades, I am told,
> but the engine looked pretty good. Here's a first look.
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000408.JPG
>
>    First step was to pull the plugs, squirt in about 1cc of oil, and turn
> the engine over by hand. Everything turned smoothly. I next changed the oil
> and filter, connected a battery, pulled the fuses out, and spun the engine
> for a second or two on the starter. Everything turned smoothly.
>    Next step, a compression test. Given a 1975 U.S. specification engine
> with a compression ratio of 7.75:1, the perfect static pressure would be
> about 114psi. My engine's initial (cold) compression readings are:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *1  115 psi 2  106 psi 3  103 psi 4  111 psi 5  102 psi 6  111 psi*
>
>    Considering that this engine hadn't run in ages and the condition of
> the valve and their seats was unknown, I decided to *not* open the engine
> unless further tests indicated that doing so was warranted.
>    I next removed the valve cover and found a clean rocker shaft and
> springs. And with the cover of off, I cleaned and refinished it. Lots of
> other bits got cleaned and refinished at the same time.
>    The waterpump and thermostat were replaced. All hoses are new. The
> radiator was flushed and pressure tested. A new fan belt was installed and
> the cooling system was flushed.
>    The Z-S carbs were rebuilt and reinstalled on new gaskets. The fuel
> line was disconnected and flushed clean. The tank was boiled out and no
> corrosion was found.
>    Earlier I posted a picture or two of the electric fuel pump I used.
> Here's one of the pictures again.
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190722_091448.jpg
>
>    I removed all the non-functional emissions bits including the air
> injection plumbing. The pipe fittings on the manifold were not coming off
> by any means known to man so...I sawed off the pipes and plugged them with
> bolts and ultra high temperature cement. Here's how they looked before
> 'surgery'.
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190514_091212.jpg
>
>    Before going on and on, as I am want to do, here is the engine and it's
> bay. This is before balancing the carbs and installing the refinished air
> cleaner with a new element. It now starts easily and runs great!
>
> http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190515_120747.jpg
>
>    I've left out the bit about omitting a waterpump bolt and causing a
> leak. And probably other little issues like a new alternator, but you get
> the gist.
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/grglmn@gmail.com
>
>

--00000000000022755705900a8662
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Richard,=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"aut=
o">I have enjoyed the story of your TR6 ressurection.=C2=A0 When I did my T=
R250 motor I did tear it down, a 90,000 plus mile car, the machinist polish=
ed the crank, and honed the notes.=C2=A0 I put on new rings and bearings.=
=C2=A0 Point being you may be on the right path leaving it alone, they can =
apparently do considerable miles without too much wear.</div><div dir=3D"au=
to"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">One note, don&#39;t forget to check crank f=
loat or end play.=C2=A0 The thrust washers on the crank are a known fail po=
int.=C2=A0 I seem to recall they can be replaced by dropping the pan and sl=
iding the bearing out.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">G=
reg Lemon</div><div dir=3D"auto">TR250</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_q=
uote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 8:07 PM R=
ichard Lindsay via 6pack &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net">6pack@=
autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" st=
yle=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div =
dir=3D"auto">Hello again Friends,<div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The followi=
ng is an abbreviated story, with pictures, of the resurrection of my TR6 en=
gine. The car hadn&#39;t run in decades, I am told, but the engine looked p=
retty good. Here&#39;s a first look.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div=
><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000408.JPG" rel=
=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1=
000408.JPG</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0First step was to pull the plugs, squirt in about 1cc of oil, and=
 turn the engine over by hand. Everything turned smoothly. I next changed t=
he oil and filter, connected a battery, pulled the fuses out, and spun the =
engine for a second or two on the starter. Everything turned smoothly.=C2=
=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Next step, a compression test. Give=
n a 1975 U.S. specification engine with a compression ratio of 7.75:1, the =
perfect static pressure would be about 114psi. My engine&#39;s=C2=A0<span s=
tyle=3D"font-family:sans-serif">initial (cold) compression readings are:</s=
pan></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div><div dir=3D"auto"><font color=3D"#f44336"><b>1 =C2=A0115 psi<br>
2 =C2=A0106 psi<br>
3 =C2=A0103 psi<br>
4 =C2=A0111 psi<br>
5 =C2=A0102 psi<br>
6 =C2=A0111 psi</b></font><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><font color=3D"#f4433=
6"><b><br></b></font></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Considering that =
this engine hadn&#39;t run in ages and the condition of the valve and their=
 seats was unknown, I decided to <u>not</u> open the engine unless further =
tests indicated that doing so was warranted.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0I next removed the valve cover and found a clean rocker shaft =
and springs. And with the cover of off, I cleaned and refinished it. Lots o=
f other bits got cleaned and refinished at the same time.</div><div dir=3D"=
auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The waterpump and thermostat were replaced. All hoses ar=
e new. The radiator was flushed and pressure tested. A new fan belt was ins=
talled and the cooling system was flushed.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =
=C2=A0The Z-S carbs were rebuilt and reinstalled on new gaskets. The fuel l=
ine was disconnected and flushed clean. The tank was boiled out and no corr=
osion was found.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Earlier I posted a pic=
ture or two of the electric fuel pump I used. Here&#39;s one of the picture=
s again.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http=
://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190722_091448.jpg" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190722_091448.jpg</a><br></=
div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I removed al=
l the non-functional emissions bits including the air injection plumbing. T=
he pipe fittings on the manifold were not coming off by any means known to =
man so...I sawed off the pipes and plugged them with bolts and ultra high t=
emperature cement. Here&#39;s how they looked before=C2=A0 &#39;surgery&#39=
;.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aub=
ard.us/75_Triumph/20190514_091212.jpg" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190514_091212.jpg</a><br></div><d=
iv dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Before going on an=
d on, as I am want to do, here is the engine and it&#39;s bay. This is befo=
re balancing the carbs and installing the refinished air cleaner with a new=
 element. It now starts easily and runs great!</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br><=
/div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190515_1207=
47.jpg" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://aubard.us/75=
_Triumph/20190515_120747.jpg</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div =
dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I&#39;ve left out the bit about omitting a waterp=
ump bolt and causing a leak. And probably other little issues like a new al=
ternator, but you get the gist.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">Rick</div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer=
" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
<br>
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">6pack@autox.team.net</a><br>
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noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack<=
/a><br>
<br>
grglmn@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://au=
tox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/grglmn@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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--===============4830559854007718630==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 00:25:35 2019
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 20:24:45 -1000
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] More resto stuff
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3648534023378260765==

--000000000000d6b14505900dd09c

Hello Friends,
   I'm stuck out in Hawaii at a destination wedding, not near my cars.
Still, as I sit here jet-lagged to the hilt, I am pondering what to do
next. If you don't mind me sending voluminous posts about my project car, I
will continue to do so.

Rick

--000000000000d6b14505900dd09c
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Hello Friends,<div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I&#39;m stuc=
k out in Hawaii at a destination wedding, not near my cars. Still, as I sit=
 here jet-lagged to the hilt, I am pondering what to do next. If you don&#3=
9;t mind me sending voluminous posts about my project car, I will continue =
to do so.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div></di=
v>

--000000000000d6b14505900dd09c--

--===============3648534023378260765==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============3648534023378260765==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 01:07:19 2019
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 21:06:36 -1000
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Wheels and tires
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8112058796608998298==

--0000000000008eebc305900e6627

Hello Friends,
   Tonight I will share a few words and pictures regarding wheels. First up
let me state: My car did not come to me with Triumph wheels on it. Rather,
it has period-correct alloy wheels. Earlier here, someone commented on the
wheel name...but I have forgotten it.
   So first up, here is a picture of the kind of wheels that were on my car
when I got it.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000397.JPG

   I'll keep this note short. Short for me anyway. Here's the story.
   I put the car up on my platform lift. That got it up about 24 inches.
More than adequate. I removed all four wheels and stored the lug nuts and
washers in a ziplock bag. I took the wheels to my local mechanic and had
the tires removed. Back home I removed valve stems and any remaining wheel
weights. The wheels then went to my friend Ashton for fine media blasting
and powder coating. She used Porsche wheel silver. The lug nuts and washers
were coated in satin black.
   While the wheels and attachments were getting refinished, I selected and
ordered new tires. When the wheels came back I installed new metal valve
stems, then mounted the tires and balanced them. My words are out of
sequence here because I also rebuilt the suspension and brakes before
installing the newly restored wheels and tires. They sat and waited while I
worked.
   So skipping forward, I mounted the newly restored wheels using the
refinished lug nuts, on the restored hubs. I then examined the chrome
plastic hub covers and decided the chrome was too far gone. So I roughed
them up with ScotchBrite and painted them with matching satin black paint.
They came out nicely but had no center emblems.
   A guy I met on some car list pointed me toward a site that makes high
quality wheel logo emblems (stickers). He didn't have Triumph artwork so I
kludged one up in PowerPoint then sent it to him as a JPG. Not cheap but I
got back four beautiful center emblems. They fit the hub covers perfectly -
since they were specified to fit them!
   I next measured the original screws that held the caps on and replaced
them with black socket head cap screws of the same diameter and thread
pitch. Before installing the caps, I ran a tap through the threads to clean
out any powdercoat. I then installed the hub caps with the cap screws,
lubricated with a little copper infused thread lubericant. Here's how they
look now.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171106_094521.jpg

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg

   That's it for wheels and tires. Suspension and brakes yet to come. Then
interior rebuild as it evolves.

Rick

--0000000000008eebc305900e6627
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Hello Friends,<div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Tonight I wi=
ll share a few words and pictures regarding wheels. First up let me state: =
My car did not come to me with Triumph wheels on it. Rather, it has period-=
correct alloy wheels. Earlier here, someone commented on the wheel name...b=
ut I have forgotten it.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0So first up, he=
re is a picture of the kind of wheels that were on my car when I got it.</d=
iv><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.u=
s/75_Triumph/P1000397.JPG">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000397.JPG</a></di=
v><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I&#39;ll keep =
this note short. Short for me anyway. Here&#39;s the story.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I put the car up on my platform lift. That got it up=
 about 24 inches. More than adequate. I removed all four wheels and stored =
the lug nuts and washers in a ziplock bag. I took the wheels to my local me=
chanic and had the tires removed. Back home I removed valve stems and any r=
emaining wheel weights. The wheels then went to my friend Ashton for fine m=
edia blasting and powder=C2=A0coating. She used Porsche wheel silver. The l=
ug nuts and washers were coated in satin black.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0While the wheels and attachments were getting refinished, I selec=
ted and ordered new tires. When the wheels came back I installed new metal =
valve stems, then mounted the tires and balanced them. My words are out of =
sequence here because I also rebuilt the suspension and brakes before insta=
lling the newly restored wheels and tires. They sat and waited while I work=
ed.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0So skipping forward, I mounted the =
newly restored wheels using the refinished lug nuts, on the restored hubs. =
I then examined the chrome plastic hub covers and decided the chrome was to=
o far gone. So I roughed them up with ScotchBrite and painted them with mat=
ching satin black paint. They came out nicely but had no center emblems.</d=
iv><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0A guy I met on some car list pointed me t=
oward a site that makes high quality wheel logo emblems (stickers). He didn=
&#39;t have Triumph artwork so I kludged one up in PowerPoint then sent it =
to him as a JPG. Not cheap but I got back four beautiful center emblems. Th=
ey fit the hub covers perfectly - since they were specified to fit them!</d=
iv><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I next measured the original screws that =
held the caps on and replaced them with black socket head cap screws of the=
 same diameter and thread pitch. Before installing the caps, I ran a tap th=
rough the threads to clean out any powdercoat. I then installed the hub cap=
s with the cap screws, lubricated with a little copper infused thread luber=
icant. Here&#39;s how they look now.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div =
dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171106_094521.jpg">ht=
tp://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171106_094521.jpg</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto=
"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/201711=
08_104056.jpg">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20171108_104056.jpg</a><br></div=
><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0That&#39;s it f=
or wheels and tires. Suspension and brakes yet to come. Then interior rebui=
ld as it evolves.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</=
div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div></div>

--0000000000008eebc305900e6627--

--===============8112058796608998298==
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============8112058796608998298==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 06:40:48 2019
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2019 08:40:27 -0400 (EDT)
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>,
 Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOc+-dyymiLk+kpbiUpLy7u+AOGykVK4ffte4WfMGAKQcQkuyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Importance: Medium
Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine restoration, abbreviated
From: Tom Walling via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1390783707452339339==
	boundary="----=_Part_214294_423902143.1565786427965"

------=_Part_214294_423902143.1565786427965
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Another "Zombie TR6"!! You can't kill 'em, even if they look dead.

 

> On August 13, 2019 at 9:07 PM Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
>     Hello again Friends,
>        The following is an abbreviated story, with pictures, of the resurrection of my TR6 engine. The car hadn't run in decades, I am told, but the engine looked pretty good. Here's a first look. 
> 
>     http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000408.JPG
> 
>        First step was to pull the plugs, squirt in about 1cc of oil, and turn the engine over by hand. Everything turned smoothly. I next changed the oil and filter, connected a battery, pulled the fuses out, and spun the engine for a second or two on the starter. Everything turned smoothly. 
>        Next step, a compression test. Given a 1975 U.S. specification engine with a compression ratio of 7.75:1, the perfect static pressure would be about 114psi. My engine's  initial (cold) compression readings are:
> 
>     1  115 psi
>     2  106 psi
>     3  103 psi
>     4  111 psi
>     5  102 psi
>     6  111 psi
> 
>        Considering that this engine hadn't run in ages and the condition of the valve and their seats was unknown, I decided to not open the engine unless further tests indicated that doing so was warranted. 
>        I next removed the valve cover and found a clean rocker shaft and springs. And with the cover of off, I cleaned and refinished it. Lots of other bits got cleaned and refinished at the same time.
>        The waterpump and thermostat were replaced. All hoses are new. The radiator was flushed and pressure tested. A new fan belt was installed and the cooling system was flushed.
>        The Z-S carbs were rebuilt and reinstalled on new gaskets. The fuel line was disconnected and flushed clean. The tank was boiled out and no corrosion was found.
>        Earlier I posted a picture or two of the electric fuel pump I used. Here's one of the pictures again.
> 
>     http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190722_091448.jpg
> 
>        I removed all the non-functional emissions bits including the air injection plumbing. The pipe fittings on the manifold were not coming off by any means known to man so...I sawed off the pipes and plugged them with bolts and ultra high temperature cement. Here's how they looked before  'surgery'.
> 
>     http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190514_091212.jpg
> 
>        Before going on and on, as I am want to do, here is the engine and it's bay. This is before balancing the carbs and installing the refinished air cleaner with a new element. It now starts easily and runs great!
> 
>     http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190515_120747.jpg
> 
>        I've left out the bit about omitting a waterpump bolt and causing a leak. And probably other little issues like a new alternator, but you get the gist.
> 
>     Rick
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>     Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
>     6pack@autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/pdqtr6@comcast.net
> 
> 

------=_Part_214294_423902143.1565786427965
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE html>
<html><head>
    <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body><p style=3D"color: #333333; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-=
serif; font-size: 12pt;">Another &#34;Zombie TR6&#34;!! You can&#39;t kill =
&#39;em, even if they look dead.</p><div class=3D"io-ox-signature">&#160;<b=
r></div><blockquote type=3D"cite">On August 13, 2019 at 9:07 PM Richard Lin=
dsay via 6pack &#60;6pack@autox.team.net&#62; wrote: <br> <br><div dir=3D"a=
uto">Hello again Friends,<div dir=3D"auto">&#160; &#160;The following is an=
 abbreviated story, with pictures, of the resurrection of my TR6 engine. Th=
e car hadn&#39;t run in decades, I am told, but the engine looked pretty go=
od. Here&#39;s a first look.&#160;</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div di=
r=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000408.JPG" target=3D"_=
blank" rel=3D"noopener">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000408.JPG</a> <br></=
div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">&#160; &#160;First step w=
as to pull the plugs, squirt in about 1cc of oil, and turn the engine over =
by hand. Everything turned smoothly. I next changed the oil and filter, con=
nected a battery, pulled the fuses out, and spun the engine for a second or=
 two on the starter. Everything turned smoothly.&#160;</div><div dir=3D"aut=
o">&#160; &#160;Next step, a compression test. Given a 1975 U.S. specificat=
ion engine with a compression ratio of 7.75:1, the perfect static pressure =
would be about 114psi. My engine&#39;s&#160; <span style=3D"font-family: sa=
ns-serif;">initial (cold) compression readings are:</span></div><div dir=3D=
"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"color: #f44336;"><strong>=
1 &#160;115 psi<br> 2 &#160;106 psi<br> 3 &#160;103 psi<br> 4 &#160;111 psi=
<br> 5 &#160;102 psi<br> 6 &#160;111 psi</strong></span> <br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><span style=3D"color: #f44336;"><strong><br></strong></span></div=
><div dir=3D"auto">&#160; &#160;Considering that this engine hadn&#39;t run=
 in ages and the condition of the valve and their seats was unknown, I deci=
ded to <u>not</u> open the engine unless further tests indicated that doing=
 so was warranted.&#160;</div><div dir=3D"auto">&#160; &#160;I next removed=
 the valve cover and found a clean rocker shaft and springs. And with the c=
over of off, I cleaned and refinished it. Lots of other bits got cleaned an=
d refinished at the same time.</div><div dir=3D"auto">&#160; &#160;The wate=
rpump and thermostat were replaced. All hoses are new. The radiator was flu=
shed and pressure tested. A new fan belt was installed and the cooling syst=
em was flushed.</div><div dir=3D"auto">&#160; &#160;The Z-S carbs were rebu=
ilt and reinstalled on new gaskets. The fuel line was disconnected and flus=
hed clean. The tank was boiled out and no corrosion was found.</div><div di=
r=3D"auto">&#160; &#160;Earlier I posted a picture or two of the electric f=
uel pump I used. Here&#39;s one of the pictures again.</div><div dir=3D"aut=
o"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190=
722_091448.jpg" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener">http://aubard.us/75_Triu=
mph/20190722_091448.jpg</a> <br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">&#160; &#160;I removed all the non-functional emissions bits incl=
uding the air injection plumbing. The pipe fittings on the manifold were no=
t coming off by any means known to man so...I sawed off the pipes and plugg=
ed them with bolts and ultra high temperature cement. Here&#39;s how they l=
ooked before&#160; &#39;surgery&#39;.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div=
 dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190514_091212.jpg" t=
arget=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190514_0912=
12.jpg</a> <br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">&#160; &=
#160;Before going on and on, as I am want to do, here is the engine and it&=
#39;s bay. This is before balancing the carbs and installing the refinished=
 air cleaner with a new element. It now starts easily and runs great!</div>=
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/7=
5_Triumph/20190515_120747.jpg" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener">http://au=
bard.us/75_Triumph/20190515_120747.jpg</a> <br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"auto">&#160; &#160;I&#39;ve left out the bit about omitti=
ng a waterpump bolt and causing a leak. And probably other little issues li=
ke a new alternator, but you get the gist.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div=
><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div></div>________________________________________=
_______ <br>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html <br>Suggested =
annual donation $12.96 <br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive <br>Forums:=
 http://www.team.net/forums <br> <br>6pack@autox.team.net <br>http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack <br> <br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/options/6pack/pdqtr6@comcast.net <br> <br></blockquote></bo=
dy></html>
=20
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============1390783707452339339==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 07:51:11 2019
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2019 09:48:23 -0400 (EDT)
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>,
 Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOc+-dw_-BpTSntHTKCwd9KOV8_Za=otkHAv29RVgwSWdBL_OA@mail.gmail.com>
Importance: Medium
Subject: Re: [6pack] More resto stuff
From: Tom Walling via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1876462396109958232==
	boundary="----=_Part_216076_438383566.1565790503596"

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Please - keep them commin'!

 

> On August 14, 2019 at 2:24 AM Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
>     Hello Friends,
>        I'm stuck out in Hawaii at a destination wedding, not near my cars. Still, as I sit here jet-lagged to the hilt, I am pondering what to do next. If you don't mind me sending voluminous posts about my project car, I will continue to do so.
> 
>     Rick
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>     Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
>     6pack@autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/pdqtr6@comcast.net
> 
> 

------=_Part_216076_438383566.1565790503596
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE html>
<html><head>
    <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body><p style=3D"color: #333333; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-=
serif; font-size: 12pt;">Please - keep them commin&#39;!</p><div class=3D"i=
o-ox-signature">&#160;<br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite">On August 14, 201=
9 at 2:24 AM Richard Lindsay via 6pack &#60;6pack@autox.team.net&#62; wrote=
: <br> <br><div dir=3D"auto">Hello Friends,<div dir=3D"auto">&#160; &#160;I=
&#39;m stuck out in Hawaii at a destination wedding, not near my cars. Stil=
l, as I sit here jet-lagged to the hilt, I am pondering what to do next. If=
 you don&#39;t mind me sending voluminous posts about my project car, I wil=
l continue to do so.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Ric=
k</div></div>_______________________________________________ <br>Support Te=
am.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html <br>Suggested annual donation $12.96=
 <br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive <br>Forums: http://www.team.net/f=
orums <br> <br>6pack@autox.team.net <br>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listi=
nfo/6pack <br> <br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/option=
s/6pack/pdqtr6@comcast.net <br> <br></blockquote></body></html>
=20
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============1876462396109958232==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 09:36:43 2019
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References: <CAOc+-dw_-BpTSntHTKCwd9KOV8_Za=otkHAv29RVgwSWdBL_OA@mail.gmail.com>
 <826169933.216077.1565790503599@connect.xfinity.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2019 05:34:49 -1000
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] More resto stuff
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5989653611384240847==

--0000000000000374c605901580f8

Thanks.
Just sharing my one and only hobby.

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 3:48 AM Tom Walling <pdqtr6@comcast.net> wrote:

> Please - keep them commin'!
>
>
> On August 14, 2019 at 2:24 AM Richard Lindsay via 6pack <
> 6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Hello Friends,
>    I'm stuck out in Hawaii at a destination wedding, not near my cars.
> Still, as I sit here jet-lagged to the hilt, I am pondering what to do
> next. If you don't mind me sending voluminous posts about my project car, I
> will continue to do so.
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/pdqtr6@comcast.net
>
>

--0000000000000374c605901580f8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto">Thanks.</div><div>Just sharing my one a=
nd only hobby.<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"=
gmail_attr">On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 3:48 AM Tom Walling &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:pdqtr6@comcast.net">pdqtr6@comcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote=
 class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc soli=
d;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>

   =20
<div><p style=3D"color:#333333;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;font-=
size:12pt">Please - keep them commin&#39;!</p><div class=3D"m_-588107815694=
5112165io-ox-signature">=C2=A0<br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite">On August=
 14, 2019 at 2:24 AM Richard Lindsay via 6pack &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:6pack@=
autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">6pack@autox.team.net</=
a>&gt; wrote: <br> <br><div dir=3D"auto">Hello Friends,<div dir=3D"auto">=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0I&#39;m stuck out in Hawaii at a destination wedding, not near=
 my cars. Still, as I sit here jet-lagged to the hilt, I am pondering what =
to do next. If you don&#39;t mind me sending voluminous posts about my proj=
ect car, I will continue to do so.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div di=
r=3D"auto">Rick</div></div>_______________________________________________ =
<br>Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"=
_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a> <br>Suggeste=
d annual donation $12.96 <br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archiv=
e" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/archive</a> <br=
>Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"no=
referrer">http://www.team.net/forums</a> <br> <br><a href=3D"mailto:6pack@a=
utox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">6pack@autox.team.net</a=
> <br><a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack" target=3D"_b=
lank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack</a> <=
br> <br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/option=
s/6pack/pdqtr6@comcast.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/pdqtr6@comcast.net</a> <br> <br></blockqu=
ote></div>
 </blockquote></div></div></div>

--0000000000000374c605901580f8--

--===============5989653611384240847==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============5989653611384240847==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 10:01:40 2019
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References: <CAOc+-dyymiLk+kpbiUpLy7u+AOGykVK4ffte4WfMGAKQcQkuyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <731604834.214295.1565786427970@connect.xfinity.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2019 06:01:21 -1000
To: Tom Walling <pdqtr6@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine restoration, abbreviated
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3100746718507496262==

--000000000000e39ab1059015de20

> Another "Zombie TR6"!! You can't kill 'em, even if they look dead.

   Yep  resurrection in progress...and its eating my brain.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20170429_135748e.jpg

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000402.JPG

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000409.JPG

...and its eating my brain.

Rick

--000000000000e39ab1059015de20
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto">&gt; Another &quot;Zombie TR6&quot;!! Y=
ou can&#39;t kill &#39;em, even if they look dead.<br></div><div dir=3D"aut=
o"><br></div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0Yep=C2=A0 resurrection in progress...and its=
 eating my brain.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"h=
ttp://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20170429_135748e.jpg">http://aubard.us/75_Triump=
h/20170429_135748e.jpg</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D=
"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000402.JPG">http://aubard.u=
s/75_Triumph/P1000402.JPG</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/P1000409.JPG">http://aubar=
d.us/75_Triumph/P1000409.JPG</a><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div =
dir=3D"auto">...and its eating my brain.</div></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br><=
/div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div></div>

--000000000000e39ab1059015de20--

--===============3100746718507496262==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============3100746718507496262==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 11:01:59 2019
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To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Thread-Topic: Engine restoration, abbreviated
Thread-Index: SPrvuiTAcMN8zB/8CY/isy24SzS/AQ==
 BKfx1PfN/ZTK2fRwwUj3fS2UrTs1txda4vjp7rGfEwVIxSzJT2lQO5vm
Subject: [6pack] Fwd:  Engine restoration, abbreviated
From: TOM MARTIN via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2019 17:20:40 -1000
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Carburetors and Induction System
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4286238869562878283==

--0000000000002b84bd05901f5dfd
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello Friends,
   Here is a piece that I wrote a bit ago. Prompted on by those of you who
have responded, this and a following note, are repeated here. I hope you
find them informative.
   Although the assumption is that the engine is fed by SU carburetors, the
physics hold true for Z-S fed cars. Please ignore the minor irregularities.

Rick

Carburetors and Induction System

   Inside of the SU=E2=80=99s 'float bowls' are brass cylinders called 'flo=
ats'.
They float, thus the name, on the petrol in the 'bowls'. The float bowl is
plumbed internally to the main 'jet' or tube, sticking up through a
'bridge' in the 'choke'. The bridge forms a venturi, accelerating the air
passing over it.
   Physics tells us that faster moving air exhibits lower pressure causing
petrol, resting at ambient pressure, to flow up and out of the jet and into
the rarefied air. How much flows is determined by the metering 'needle'.
That closely fitting needle is tapered with the smaller diameter at the tip
and larger at the shank. The needle is attached to an 'air piston' or air
dam that raises and lowers as the 'throttle' demands air. More demand and
the air piston lifts, admitting more air. In doing so, the attached needle
lifts up the jet. As the diameter of the needle decreases, the annulus
between the needle and jet increases in area, allowing more petrol to flow
into the air stream. And Voila! The fuel is metered to the air, keeping the
'air:fuel ratio' of the 'charge' correct!
   Gravity makes the petrol in the jet seek the same level as that in the
float bowl. Therefore, the level in the bowl must be carefully established.
And that is the job of the =E2=80=98float bowl valves=E2=80=99. So the firs=
t step in tuning
is to install a new float bowl valve and adjust the actuating arm or float
feelers, so as to correctly set the petrol level in the bowl and jet. With
the SU, the correct setting is 11mm, as per the TR3b / H6 carburetor
manual. The height is measured from the lid flange up to the fingers with
the arm resting on the valve.
   The cork gaskets on the float bowl covers are available new but because
of low demand, they are typically old stock, and have shrunk a bit. They
just don't fit well. So instead of fighting new-old-stock, many tuners
reuse the old cork, helping it seal with a thin smear of vacuum grease -
the stuff used to seal glassware in wet chemistry labs. The other value in
reusing the old gaskets is that they are already compressed to the proper
thickness. While sealing well, the new gaskets may require the attachment
nut to be over tightened to attain the correct thickness.
   The SU carburetor, when in use, is operating in a dynamic state. The
fuel dynamics are actually very mild. Petrol flowing from the jet is
replaced via the float bowl valve. That's about it. The inertia of the fuel
causes the replenishment to lag the output. However, even at maximum flow,
the amount of petrol flowing is very small. Thus the mild fuel dynamics and
it is of no consequence.
   Air flow is another issue all together. Air (moving at low speed) has
very little inertia, owing to its low density. When the throttle is opened,
a great gust of air begins to flow. Without some method of moderation, the
mixture would lean-out terribly. The fuel flow simply couldn't keep up with
the air. But fortunately, the mighty SU moderates the air flow, via a
'damper' on the air piston.
   There is another piston down a bore in the center of the air piston.
That piston forms a damper because it contains a one-way valve. The little
bore is partially filled with a thin oil, for example, ATF. The upward
motion of the air piston is retarded by this damper and slows it down. This
is how the SU prevents the charge from leaning-out. The one-way valve in
the damper allows the air piston to fall quickly when the air flow reduces
as the throttle closes. So the second step in tuning is to add oil to the
dampers. The correct amount of oil is set when resistance is felt when
inserting the piston, just as the cap reaches the threads in the cover. The
cap is further tightened, if only snugly.
   The desired air:fuel ratio is set by raising or lowering the jet. This
is done by adjusting the jet height nut. Clockwise adjustment raises the
jet. Anticlockwise adjustment lowers it. Setting the initial jet height is
the next stage in tuning.
   The stoichiometrically correct air:fuel ratio for modern petrol is
14.7:1, by weight. That is, to perfectly burn the charge, 14.7 units of air
are required to burn 1 unit of petrol. That is also the ideal air:fuel
ratio for over-run, after 'lifting'. However, it is not the ratio that
produces the most power. Testing demonstrates that the peak in the power
curve occurs when the air:fuel ratio is about 12:1. Since this discussion
is about carburetors on sports cars, this is the desired air:fuel ratio.
      A discussion of the cold starting circuit is now appropriate, since
cold starting requires a change to air:fuel ratio. The word 'choke' is used
for two purposes. In the SU carburetor it means the central bore or air
path through the carburetor. On the dashboard, the control called the
=E2=80=98Choke=E2=80=99 is an American-ism. The British term is a 'strangle=
r'. However, SU
carburetors do not have air restricting stranglers. Rather, they induce
charge enrichment for starting by lowering the jet, thereby allowing more
fuel to flow past the smaller diameter needle position. But why do engines
need enrichment to start, especially when cold?

   The short answer is because petrol has to be in the gaseous state to
burn. The slightly longer answer requires a bit of preface. The engine bits
are (typically) made of metal and when cold, they absorb heat easily.
That's why they feel cold! So here's what happens at cold start.
   When the throttle opens, the 'charge' (air and fuel mixture, ideally at
about 12:1 ratio, by weight) rushes in. That's because the action of the
engine's pistons cause a reduced pressure beyond the throttle plate. When
the charge experiences the drop in pressure, the petrol evaporates. Think
lowered boiling point at high altitudes. All is as intended except when the
engine is cold.
   When the engine is cold, the petrol now vaporized by the reduced
pressure, condenses back to liquid on the cold metal walls of the manifold,
intake runners, head and valves. When it does so, this 'inlet track
wetting' leans the charge below the ignition point. So what is done to
remedy the problem? The charge can be enriched by strangling the air, as is
done in older American cars, or by lowering the jet in SU equipped cars.
And the later is precisely what the 'choke' control on the old British
car=E2=80=99s dash does.
   Once the engine is running, the problem doesn't immediately go away. The
engine and all of its inlet bits, have to 'warm up' before the 'wetting'
ends. To speed up this process, carburetors, inlet manifolds and often
heads, are made of aluminum. That metal conducts heat much better than
iron, allowing the inlet track to warm quicker. In fact, many early
Triumphs, MGs and Jaguars route coolant, straight from the water jackets
around the combustion chambers, to an isolated channel within the inlet
manifold. Again, the goal is to heat the inlet track, reducing warm up time=
.

   The first step in tuning multiple SU carburetors is to disconnect the
throttle linkage between the carburetors. This is done in order to tune
each carburetor separately before =E2=80=98synchronizing=E2=80=99 them. The=
 carburetors are
then preset.
   The jet heights are pre-set to a starting point. This is done by turning
the adjusting nuts clockwise until the tips of the jets are precisely flush
with the bridges. The nuts are then turned anti-clockwise 6-8 hex nut
'flats'. The precise amount isn't critical at this stage, as long as both
carburetors are aligned by the same amount. The idle adjustment screws are
backed off until they just touch the linkage. The screws are then turned
clockwise for one full turn. These screw settings and the jet heights are
the initial settings. Start the engine. It should run with these initial
settings but a bit of enrichment with the choke control may be required
until the engine is warm.
   Once the engine is at operating temperature, use an air flow meter to
measure the air flow on each carburetor. Use the idle speed screws to
balance the airflow between the carburetors, and to attain a low idle
speed. It may not be possible to set a proper slow idle but try to attain
1000rpm or so.

   Many SUs have a small pin on the underside of the body, near the choke,
with which the tuner may lift the air piston a tiny bit. Other models do
not have this pin. With the later, a small screwdriver may be used to lift
the air piston. These pins or screwdrivers, are used to test the air:fuel
ratio of the charge.
   It doesn't matter which carburetor is tuned first. Make a choice. Lift
the tuning pin or manually lift the air piston a tiny bit and observe the
engine speed. An electronic tachometer attached at the engine bay is
helpful. When the air piston is lifted, the engine speed may change, and
then will probably stabilize. If the engine speed increases, the charge is
too rich, since adding extra air made for more efficient combustion. If the
engine speed decreases or tries to die, the charge is too lean. The
corrections are made with the jet height adjustment nut.
   If the tests indicated that the charge is too rich, raise the jet by
turning the adjusting nut one 'flat' clockwise. If too lean, adjust the
other direction. Record the results. In either case, test again with the
lifting pin or screwdriver. Continue testing and adjusting until lifting
the air piston causes no change in engine speed, then record the total
number of flats changed. Apply the same adjustment to the other carburetor
and re-test both. Small adjustments may still be needed owing to flow
dynamics and variations in carburetor manufacturing.

   Re-test and correct, as needed, the airflow balance and set the slow
idle speed to the value specified in the manual. Now, test everything
again, making corrections as required. Finally, tighten the linkage paying
particular attention to not disturb the settings. Test again.
   The final tuning step will have to wait until the engine is once again
cold. There is an adjustment screw on the carburetor and a cam on the
throttle for the choke circuit. When the choke is applied, the cam rotates
against the screw opening the throttle a tiny bit facilitating warm-up. Use
the screw to set it to the lowest cold idle speed that is consistent with
smooth running.
   Thus ends the discussion of the charge and carburetion.

--0000000000002b84bd05901f5dfd
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto">Hello Friends,</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Here is a piece that I wrote a bit ago. Prompted on by those o=
f you who have responded, this and a following note, are repeated here. I h=
ope you find them informative.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Al=
though the assumption is that the engine is fed by SU carburetors, the phys=
ics hold true for Z-S fed cars. Please ignore the minor irregularities.=C2=
=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div>Carburetors and Induction System<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Inside of the SU=E2=80=99s &#39;float bowls&#39; are bras=
s cylinders called &#39;floats&#39;. They float, thus the name, on the petr=
ol in the &#39;bowls&#39;. The float bowl is plumbed internally to the main=
 &#39;jet&#39; or tube, sticking up through a &#39;bridge&#39; in the &#39;=
choke&#39;. The bridge forms a venturi, accelerating the air passing over i=
t.=C2=A0<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Physics tells us that faster moving air exhibits lower pressur=
e causing petrol, resting at ambient pressure, to flow up and out of the je=
t and into the rarefied air. How much flows is determined by the metering &=
#39;needle&#39;. That closely fitting needle is tapered with the smaller di=
ameter at the tip and larger at the shank. The needle is attached to an &#3=
9;air piston&#39; or air dam that raises and lowers as the &#39;throttle&#3=
9; demands air. More demand and the air piston lifts, admitting more air. I=
n doing so, the attached needle lifts up the jet. As the diameter of the ne=
edle decreases, the annulus between the needle and jet increases in area, a=
llowing more petrol to flow into the air stream. And Voila! The fuel is met=
ered to the air, keeping the &#39;air:fuel ratio&#39; of the &#39;charge&#3=
9; correct!<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Gravity makes the petrol in the jet seek the same level as tha=
t in the float bowl. Therefore, the level in the bowl must be carefully est=
ablished. And that is the job of the =E2=80=98float bowl valves=E2=80=99. S=
o the first step in tuning is to install a new float bowl valve and adjust =
the actuating arm or float feelers, so as to correctly set the petrol level=
 in the bowl and jet.=C2=A0With the SU, the correct setting is 11mm, as per=
 the TR3b / H6 carburetor manual. The height is measured from the lid flang=
e up to the fingers with the arm resting on the valve.<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0The cork gaskets on the float bowl covers are available new bu=
t because of low demand, they are typically old stock, and have shrunk a bi=
t. They just don&#39;t fit well. So instead of fighting new-old-stock, many=
 tuners reuse the old cork, helping it seal with a thin smear of vacuum gre=
ase - the stuff used to seal glassware in wet chemistry labs.=C2=A0The othe=
r value in reusing the old gaskets is that they are already compressed to t=
he proper thickness. While sealing well, the new gaskets may require the at=
tachment nut to be over tightened to attain the correct thickness.<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0The SU carburetor, when in use, is operating in a dynamic stat=
e. The fuel dynamics are actually very mild. Petrol flowing from the jet is=
 replaced via the float bowl valve. That&#39;s about it. The inertia of the=
 fuel causes the replenishment to lag the output. However, even at maximum =
flow, the amount of petrol flowing is very small. Thus the mild fuel dynami=
cs and it is of no consequence.<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Air flow is another issue all together. Air (moving at low spe=
ed) has very little inertia, owing to its low density. When the throttle is=
 opened, a great gust of air begins to flow. Without some method of moderat=
ion, the mixture would lean-out terribly. The fuel flow simply couldn&#39;t=
 keep up with the air. But fortunately, the mighty SU moderates the air flo=
w, via a &#39;damper&#39; on the air piston.<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0There is another piston down a bore in the center of the air p=
iston. That piston forms a damper because it contains a one-way valve. The =
little bore is partially filled with a thin oil, for example, ATF. The upwa=
rd motion of the air piston is retarded by this damper and slows it down. T=
his is how the SU prevents the charge from leaning-out. The one-way valve i=
n the damper allows the air piston to fall quickly when the air flow reduce=
s as the throttle closes. So the second step in tuning is to add oil to the=
 dampers. The correct amount of oil is set when resistance is felt when ins=
erting the piston, just as the cap reaches the threads in the cover. The ca=
p is further tightened, if only snugly.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The desired air:fuel ratio is set by raising or lowering =
the jet. This is done by adjusting the jet height nut. Clockwise adjustment=
 raises the jet. Anticlockwise adjustment lowers it. Setting the initial je=
t height is the next stage in tuning.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The=C2=A0stoichiometrically correct=C2=A0air:fuel ratio f=
or modern petrol is 14.7:1, by weight. That is, to perfectly burn the charg=
e, 14.7 units of air are required to burn 1 unit of petrol. That is also th=
e ideal air:fuel ratio for over-run, after &#39;lifting&#39;. However, it i=
s not the ratio that produces the most power. Testing demonstrates that the=
 peak in the power curve occurs when the air:fuel ratio is about 12:1. Sinc=
e this discussion is about carburetors on sports cars, this is the desired =
air:fuel ratio.<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0A discussion of the cold starting circuit is now =
appropriate, since cold starting requires a change to air:fuel ratio. The w=
ord &#39;choke&#39; is used for two purposes. In the SU carburetor it means=
 the central bore or air path through the carburetor. On the dashboard, the=
 control called the =E2=80=98Choke=E2=80=99 is an American-ism. The British=
 term is a &#39;strangler&#39;. However, SU carburetors do not have air res=
tricting stranglers. Rather, they induce charge enrichment for starting by =
lowering the jet, thereby allowing more fuel to flow past the smaller diame=
ter needle position.=C2=A0But why do engines need enrichment to start, espe=
cially when cold?<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The short answer is because petrol has to be in the gaseo=
us state to burn. The slightly longer answer requires a bit of preface. The=
 engine bits are (typically) made of metal and when cold, they absorb heat =
easily. That&#39;s why they feel cold! So here&#39;s what happens at cold s=
tart.<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0When the throttle opens, the &#39;charge&#39; (air and fuel mi=
xture, ideally at about 12:1 ratio, by weight) rushes in. That&#39;s becaus=
e the action of the engine&#39;s pistons cause a reduced pressure beyond th=
e throttle plate. When the charge experiences the drop in pressure, the pet=
rol evaporates. Think lowered boiling point at high altitudes. All is as in=
tended except when the engine is cold.<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0When the engine is cold, the petrol now vaporized by the reduc=
ed pressure, condenses back to liquid on the cold metal walls of the manifo=
ld, intake runners, head and valves. When it does so, this &#39;inlet track=
 wetting&#39; leans the charge below the ignition point. So what is done to=
 remedy the problem? The charge can be enriched by strangling the air, as i=
s done in older American cars, or by lowering the jet in SU equipped cars. =
And the later is precisely what the &#39;choke&#39; control on the old Brit=
ish car=E2=80=99s dash does.=C2=A0 =C2=A0<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Once the engine is running, the problem doesn&#39;t immed=
iately go away. The engine and all of its inlet bits, have to &#39;warm up&=
#39; before the &#39;wetting&#39; ends. To speed up this process, carbureto=
rs, inlet manifolds and often heads, are made of aluminum. That metal condu=
cts heat much better than iron, allowing the inlet track to warm quicker. I=
n fact, many early Triumphs, MGs and Jaguars route coolant, straight from t=
he water jackets around the combustion chambers, to an isolated channel wit=
hin the inlet manifold. Again, the goal is to heat the inlet track, reducin=
g warm up time.<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The first step in tuning multiple SU carburetors is to di=
sconnect the throttle linkage between the carburetors. This is done in orde=
r to tune each carburetor separately before =E2=80=98synchronizing=E2=80=99=
 them. The carburetors are then preset.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The jet heights are pre-set to a starting point. This is =
done by turning the adjusting nuts clockwise until the tips of the jets are=
 precisely flush with the bridges. The nuts are then turned anti-clockwise =
6-8 hex nut &#39;flats&#39;. The precise amount isn&#39;t critical at this =
stage, as long as both carburetors are aligned by the same amount.=C2=A0The=
 idle adjustment screws are backed off until they just touch the linkage. T=
he screws are then turned clockwise for one full turn. These screw settings=
 and the jet heights are the initial settings.=C2=A0Start the engine. It sh=
ould run with these initial settings but a bit of enrichment with the choke=
 control may be required until the engine is warm.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Once the engine is at operating temperature, use an air f=
low meter to measure the air flow on each carburetor. Use the idle speed sc=
rews to balance the airflow between the carburetors, and to attain a low id=
le speed. It may not be possible to set a proper slow idle but try to attai=
n 1000rpm or so.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Many SUs have a small pin on the underside of the body, n=
ear the choke, with which the tuner may lift the air piston a tiny bit. Oth=
er models do not have this pin. With the later, a small screwdriver may be =
used to lift the air piston. These pins or screwdrivers, are used to test t=
he air:fuel ratio of the charge.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0It doesn&#39;t matter which carburetor is tuned first. Ma=
ke a choice. Lift the tuning pin or manually lift the air piston a tiny bit=
 and observe the engine speed. An electronic tachometer attached at the eng=
ine bay is helpful. When the air piston is lifted, the engine speed may cha=
nge, and then will probably stabilize. If the engine speed increases, the c=
harge is too rich, since adding extra air made for more efficient combustio=
n. If the engine speed decreases or tries to die, the charge is too lean. T=
he corrections are made with the jet height adjustment nut.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0If the tests indicated that the charge is too rich, raise=
 the jet by turning the adjusting nut one &#39;flat&#39; clockwise. If too =
lean, adjust the other direction. Record the results. In either case, test =
again with the lifting pin or screwdriver. Continue testing and adjusting u=
ntil lifting the air piston causes no change in engine speed, then record t=
he total number of flats changed. Apply the same adjustment to the other ca=
rburetor and re-test both. Small adjustments may still be needed owing to f=
low dynamics and variations in carburetor manufacturing.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Re-test and correct, as needed, the airflow balance and s=
et the slow idle speed to the value specified in the manual. Now, test ever=
ything again, making corrections as required. Finally, tighten the linkage =
paying particular attention to not disturb the settings. Test again.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The final tuning step will have to wait until the engine =
is once again cold. There is an adjustment screw on the carburetor and a ca=
m on the throttle for the choke circuit. When the choke is applied, the cam=
 rotates against the screw opening the throttle a tiny bit facilitating war=
m-up. Use the screw to set it to the lowest cold idle speed that is consist=
ent with smooth running.<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Thus ends the discussion of the charge and carburetion.<br></d=
iv></div>

--0000000000002b84bd05901f5dfd--

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2019 17:44:33 -1000
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Ignition (Loooong
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

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--000000000000d52d7e05901fb1da
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello Friends,
   Here is the next piece that I wrote a bit ago. I hope you find them
informative.

   In this work, the function of the ignition condenser is debatable. Some
have considered these words apocryphal. Some have offered alternative
discussion. And some have found them based in elementary physics. You
decide.

Rick

Ignition System

   The ignition system on older British sports cars is comprised of a
number of components, all of which need to be in top operating condition
for maximum performance. Working backwards from the engine, these parts are
the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor, coil, and in some cases, a
ballast resistor.

   Spark plugs, or 'sparking plugs' as they are quoted in the British car
manuals, are the components that ignite the charge. An electric spark from
the center electrode to ground heats the charge, ionizing it and starting
oxidation. The 'flame front' then travels across the combustion chamber. As
it does so, the MEP, or Mean Effective Pressure, increases to a maximum,
pushing the piston down the bore. More on that later but first, here is the
anatomy of a spark(ing) plug.

   The plug is an electrical device. It has a central electrode extending
from a connection at the outside, to a tip inside the combustion chamber.
It is supported by and sealed within a ceramic insulator. The exposed
length of the ceramic insulator sets the 'heat range' of the plug. Short
insulators conduct heat away from the tip more quickly. Long ones cool more
slowly. Too cold and deposits are left on the tip and insulator. Too hot
and the tip material may burn and remain too hot, causing pre-ignition of
the charge. The engine designers understood the heat characteristics of the
various engines and have specified the ideal heat range for plugs in each
application.

   Plug choices are like oil choices. Every manufacturer has a marketing
campaign claiming their plug is the best. And like the oil additive
industry, there are a number of added-on doodads to plug tip design.

   The most basic plug electrode design, and the design for which these
older engines were intended, is a plug with a copper or copper plated
central electrode and a steel ground or earth electrode extending from the
edge of the threads, going up and over the central tip. The gap between the
tip and the ground will be discussed later.

   Arguably, the biggest improvement in spark plug design is the
application of rare metals to the tip design. Platinum and iridium are used
because they withstand high heat better than copper. Copper tends to melt
and burn away with use. These high-end plugs will probably outlast the
engine, unless contaminated.

   Other manufacturers, eager to capture market share, have engineered new
plug designs utilizing multiple ground electrodes in various orientations,
each claiming superior performance, greater power and extended life. They
are a waste of time and money in this author's opinion. Premium platinum or
iridium plugs are the author=E2=80=99s plugs of choice. Old design copper e=
lectrode
plugs are perfectly acceptable too, but expect to re-gap or change the
plugs as part of the routine maintenance.
   The 'reach' of a plug is the length of the threaded portion of the body.
It is the bit that screws into the head. The reach must match the engine
maker's design. Too short and the spark doesn't occur within the combustion
chamber. Too long and the plug extends too far into the combustion chamber,
inviting physical damage. Plug reach must match the engine designer's
specification.
   Regardless of the type of plug chosen, assuming the reach and heat range
are correct, the plug threads should be lubricated before installation.
Copper infused thread lubricant, applied sparingly to the new plug threads,
is ideal. This is very important for engines with alloy heads! The plug's
steel threads can easily damage the head=E2=80=99s softer alloy plug-hole t=
hreads.
This can happen either by physical damage, such as cross-threading or
over-tightening, or by the action of dissimilar metals placed in contact.
Thread lubricant minimizes head damage. The author uses lubricant even for
iron heads since the copper particles marginally improve heat flow, thereby
cooling the plug. Perhaps that's over-kill but it certainly makes plug
changes easier.
   Before installing the spark plugs, the electrode gap should be set. A
typical gap is 0.025", or 0.64mm, and this is often the gap found, straight
out of the plug's box. However, the engine maker=E2=80=99s specification sh=
ould be
followed and the gap set properly. In all cases, the gap is set by bending
the ground electrode, never by touching the central electrode. That element
is surrounded by brittle ceramic and may be damaged.
   The physicist in the author requires that he write a little bit about
the anatomy of the spark. The spark is comprised of two phenomena; the
capacitive component that lasts only a few microseconds, and the much
longer electrical component that produces the big, fat, hot spark. It is
argued that a properly tuned and warmed up engine can run on the capacitive
component only, but they never do. Rather, the high voltage electrical
spark is needed to heat the charge, thereby vaporizing any wetted charge on
the electrodes, and further promoting ionization of the charge between the
electrodes. And this is where proper electrode gap becomes important. A
wider gap provides a hotter spark as is required to adequately heat the
charge, especially for cold starts. However, a wider gap requires more
secondary voltage to spark. This topic leads us to the ignition coil.
   High voltage from the coil's secondary winding travels through the
distributor and the plug wires, out to the spark plugs. The distributor and
plug wires will be discussed later but first, here is a discussion of the
coil. The ignition coil is an autoformer. That is, it is a transformer with
one side of the primary winding and one side of the secondary winding
connected together. This side of the circuit is connected to the coil's ( -
) or 'CB' post. The later descriptor means Contact Block and is a better
designation since this is also the connection for older positive earth cars
like the MG T-series of cars. In that case, the ( - ) marking is a misnomer=
.

   A transformer is a voltage multiplier. Any deeper discussion of
electromagnetic theory is not helpful for our purposes. Stated more simply,
the coil's secondary contains thousands more turns of wire than does the
primary. Both are wound around a soft iron core. The ratio of turns,
primary to secondary, defines how much the primary voltage is 'stepped up'.
An automobile coil typically produces about 20,000 volts at the secondary,
from its 12 volts primary. This is the voltage that is fed to the plugs.

   Some ignition designs incorporate a ballast resistor in series with the
coil's primary circuit. The reason for this design will become apparent
shortly. A conventional coil is designed for 12 volts, applied directly to
the primary. The primary coil winding is typically about 3 ohms resistance.
So at 12 volts, a current of 4 amps, flows. ( I =3D E /R ) All is well and
good for normal operation but what about start up? During cold weather the
starter has to work harder to spin the engine. And when doing so, it
demands more current from the battery. In fact, the battery voltage is
pulled down to 9 volts or less during these cold starts. We've all seen the
lights dim during starting. Unfortunately, reduced primary voltage also
results in reduced secondary voltage, thereby weakening the spark right
when it needs to be the strongest! The ballasted coil design addresses this
problem.

   Under normal operation, a ballasted ignition works just like a regular
ignition, but the components are different. Designs vary but basically, a
ballasted coil's primary resistance is on the order of 1.6 ohms, rather
than the 3 ohms of a conventional coil. Inserted in the primary circuit
path is a ballast resistor of about 1.4 ohms. The sum of the primary coil
winding and the ballast resistor in series, is still 3 ohms. The ignition
current is the same 4 amps as with a conventional coil. The same hot spark
is provided when the engine is running. The tricky and useful bit of a
ballasted ignition happens at cold start.

   When starting, voltage from the ignition switch is applied directly to
the coil, bypassing the ballast resistor. Assuming the starter is pulling
the available battery voltage down to about 9 volts, the 1.6 ohm coil now
sees 9 volts at it's primary, for a current of 5.6 amps! So even with the
starter pulling down the available voltage, the ignition still provides a
hotter spark for easy starting. Of course, the numbers quoted here are
generic and they vary with manufacturer, but the concept is the same.
Ballasted ignitions are implemented to facilitate cold engine starts.
   The ignition's secondary voltage is not continuous. Rather, it is a
pulsed system operating under the control of the distributor. This device
is actually two devices integrated into one case. The high voltage or 'high
tension' stated in old-speak, is distributed to the spark plugs, via the
plug wires, by this part of the distributor, thus the name. The other part
of the distributor pulses and times the spark by controlling the coil's
primary circuit. Both are now discussed.
   High voltage distribution is achieved by a rotating contactor, aptly
termed the 'rotor'. This device is fed secondary voltage at it's center via
a contact in the distributor cap. Located around the inside of the cap are
electrical contacts leading to the connectors on the outside and to which
plug wires, and therefore, the plugs are connected. The distributor rotates
at one half of the engine crankshaft speed because of the engine's Otto
Cycle or 4-stroke design. The rotor spins around the inside of the cap
allowing a precisely timed spark to occur between the rotor and the
appropriate contact in the cap. That voltage then fires the spark plug on
the correct cylinder at the optimal time to ignite the charge.
   The other function of the distributor is to pulse the coil's primary at
the right times, and to provide a circuit path for the coil's secondary.
The first part of this process is rather well understood by most mechanics,
but the later bit remains shrouded in mystery. Here is an explanation.
   Inside of the distributor is a cam with the same number of 'lobes' as
the engine has cylinders. Riding on the cam and mounted on the 'breaker
plate' are a set of contacts, also called 'points'. The lobes of the cam
cause the points to open and close. When closed, the coil primary is
grounded allowing a magnetic field to grow to saturation in the coil. When
the points open the magnetic field collapses and induces a high voltage in
the secondary winding. It is this voltage that provides the sparks.
Therefore, the spark timing is set at the time the points open, not close.

   Before discussing timing, the purpose of the condenser should be
understood. One side of this device is grounded to the breaker plate. The
other side of the condenser is connected to the coil-side of the points.
When the points open, the coil is electrically isolated from earth ground,
except through the condenser, and thus its purpose. The coil's field
collapses induces a high voltage in the secondary. The purpose of the
condenser is to provide a current path for that circuit. Many workers claim
that the condenser is there to prevent secondary arcing across the points,
but that is a benefit, not the reason for the condenser.
   Of primary importance is when the spark plugs fire, and this timing is
also controlled by the distributor. The breaker plate, described above, is
arranged so that it may rotate a few degrees. The rotor is attached to a
shaft that also may rotate a few degrees, if by a different mechanism. The
former is modulated by a vacuum capsule, or perhaps two of them. The later
is rotated by a set of rotating weights, acting against two springs,
sometimes of different spring constants. In the vernacular, the capsules
are called the 'vacuum advance'. The flying weights are called the
'centrifugal advance'. In both cases, the word 'advance' is the key. And
before discussing ignition timing, the characteristics of the burning
charge will be discussed.
   The goal of any ignition is to arrange for the MEP (Mean Effective
Pressure) caused by combustion, to occur where it can do the most work.
Therefore, timing the ignition is actually timing the MEP to the optimal
piston position. Fortunately the engine designers have worked through the
maths and have done all the experiments to simplify our task to reading the
manual and making a few adjustments! That said, it is still of value to
understand why the timing must be varied.
   The charge does not immediately flash to fully combusted, as our
experiences with flammable liquids might imply. Rather, the charge is
ignited at the spark plug and the 'flame front' then progresses across the
combustion chamber. The MEP is not achieved instantaneously either so the
ignition of the charge has to be in advance of the MEP. This would all
seems easy enough to understand if the engine operated at one speed
only...but it doesn't.
   At slow engine speeds, such as slow idle, the spark timing has to occur
so that the MEP does the most work. In most engine designs this is the
'static timing' and is typically a few degrees BTDC or 'Before Top Dead
Center'. Why before? The spark ignites the charge early enough to allow for
the travel time of the flame front and for the pressure to build to the
MEP. As the engine speed increases, the travel time of the flame front does
not, but the piston is moving faster! Therefore, to place the MEP at the
optimal piston position, the charge must be ignited earlier. And this is
the sole purpose for the timing advance mechanisms in the distributor. The
author could write more about the centrifugal advance curve or how the
vacuum advance mechanism compensates for engine load, but those are topics
better left for later.
  One of the typical failure modes in old British car ignitions is the
points. With use, the contacts tend to burn and the insulating wiper riding
on the cam wears. In both cases, the timing suffers eventually ending in
ignition failure. For about $120 the whole ignition primary can be upgraded
by using a Pertronix Ignitor instead of the points and condenser. This
device includes a circular adapter that fits over the cam. Imbedded in the
adapter are tiny magnets that spin adjacent to the ignition module.
Impulses from the magnets cause the internal circuit to pulse the ignition
electronically, with no moving parts! This system provides a maintenance
free ignition primary.
   Unfortunately, the rest of the old distributor components are typically
worn or damaged. Most old British cars enjoyed by collectors are
40-years-old or older! A lot of wear can happen in 40+ years. Bushings wear
from lack of lubrication, pivots wear in the advance mechanisms, and
previous owners may have done quite nefarious things! The author has even
found ball point pen (biro) springs substituted for the springs on the
centrifugal advance! There are three choices available to remedy these
problems: totally rebuild the distributor - a task beyond the skill set of
most amateur mechanics, buy a period-correct replacement distributor,
either new or professionally rebuilt, or buy a new Pertronix distributor,
already equipped with an electronic primary trigger system.
   Symptoms of distributor wear include the inability to set a smooth, slow
idle, and timing instability at low engine speeds as indicated by a timing
light. The author recommends the Pertronix distributor. His MG TD and TR3b
both have these upgrades and both have beautifully smooth slow idles, and
trouble free ignitions.

--000000000000d52d7e05901fb1da
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">Hello =
Friends,</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0Here is the next piece that I wrote a bit ago. I hope you find them info=
rmative.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif"><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0In th=
is work, the function of the ignition condenser is debatable. Some have con=
sidered these words apocryphal. Some have offered alternative discussion. A=
nd some have found them based in elementary physics. You decide.</div><div =
dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto" s=
tyle=3D"font-family:sans-serif">Rick</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-f=
amily:sans-serif"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-ser=
if">Ignition System<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The ignition system on older British sports cars is compr=
ised of a number of components, all of which need to be in top operating co=
ndition for maximum performance. Working backwards from the engine, these p=
arts are the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor, coil, and in some cases,=
 a ballast resistor.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Spark plugs, or &#39;sparking plugs&#39; as they are quot=
ed in the British car manuals, are the components that ignite the charge. A=
n electric spark from the center electrode to ground heats the charge, ioni=
zing it and starting oxidation. The &#39;flame front&#39; then travels acro=
ss the combustion chamber. As it does so, the MEP, or Mean Effective Pressu=
re, increases to a maximum, pushing the piston down the bore. More on that =
later but first, here is the anatomy of a spark(ing) plug.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The plug is an electrical device. It has a central electr=
ode extending from a connection at the outside, to a tip inside the combust=
ion chamber. It is supported by and sealed within a ceramic insulator. The =
exposed length of the ceramic insulator sets the &#39;heat range&#39; of th=
e plug. Short insulators conduct heat away from the tip more quickly. Long =
ones cool more slowly. Too cold and deposits are left on the tip and insula=
tor. Too hot and the tip material may burn and remain too hot, causing pre-=
ignition of the charge. The engine designers understood the heat characteri=
stics of the various engines and have specified the ideal heat range for pl=
ugs in each application.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Plug choices are like oil choices. Every manufacturer has=
 a marketing campaign claiming their plug is the best. And like the oil add=
itive industry, there are a number of added-on doodads to plug tip design.<=
br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The most basic plug electrode design, and the design for =
which these older engines were intended, is a plug with a copper or copper =
plated central electrode and a steel ground or earth electrode extending fr=
om the edge of the threads, going up and over the central tip. The gap betw=
een the tip and the ground will be discussed later.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Arguably, the biggest improvement in spark plug design is=
 the application of rare metals to the tip design. Platinum and iridium are=
 used because they withstand high heat better than copper. Copper tends to =
melt and burn away with use. These high-end plugs will probably outlast the=
 engine, unless contaminated.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Other manufacturers, eager to capture market share, have =
engineered new plug designs utilizing multiple ground electrodes in various=
 orientations, each claiming superior performance, greater power and extend=
ed life. They are a waste of time and money in this author&#39;s opinion. P=
remium platinum or iridium plugs are the author=E2=80=99s plugs of choice. =
Old design copper electrode plugs are perfectly acceptable too, but expect =
to re-gap or change the plugs as part of the routine maintenance.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The &#39;reach&#39; of a plug is the length of the thread=
ed portion of the body. It is the bit that screws into the head. The reach =
must match the engine maker&#39;s design. Too short and the spark doesn&#39=
;t occur within the combustion chamber. Too long and the plug extends too f=
ar into the combustion chamber, inviting physical damage. Plug reach must m=
atch the engine designer&#39;s specification.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Regardless of the type of plug chosen, assuming the reach=
 and heat range are correct, the plug threads should be lubricated before i=
nstallation. Copper infused thread lubricant, applied sparingly to the new =
plug threads, is ideal. This is very important for engines with alloy heads=
! The plug&#39;s steel threads can easily damage the head=E2=80=99s softer =
alloy plug-hole threads. This can happen either by physical damage, such as=
 cross-threading or over-tightening, or by the action of dissimilar metals =
placed in contact. Thread lubricant minimizes head damage. The author uses =
lubricant even for iron heads since the copper particles marginally improve=
 heat flow, thereby cooling the plug. Perhaps that&#39;s over-kill but it c=
ertainly makes plug changes easier.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Before installing the spark plugs, the electrode gap shou=
ld be set. A typical gap is 0.025&quot;, or 0.64mm, and this is often the g=
ap found, straight out of the plug&#39;s box. However, the engine maker=E2=
=80=99s specification should be followed and the gap set properly. In all c=
ases, the gap is set by bending the ground electrode, never by touching the=
 central electrode. That element is surrounded by brittle ceramic and may b=
e damaged.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The physicist in the author requires that he write a litt=
le bit about the anatomy of the spark. The spark is comprised of two phenom=
ena; the capacitive component that lasts only a few microseconds, and the m=
uch longer electrical component that produces the big, fat, hot spark. It i=
s argued that a properly tuned and warmed up engine can run on the capaciti=
ve component only, but they never do. Rather, the high voltage electrical s=
park is needed to heat the charge, thereby vaporizing any wetted charge on =
the electrodes, and further promoting ionization of the charge between the =
electrodes. And this is where proper electrode gap becomes important. A wid=
er gap provides a hotter spark as is required to adequately heat the charge=
, especially for cold starts. However, a wider gap requires more secondary =
voltage to spark. This topic leads us to the ignition coil.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0High voltage from the coil&#39;s secondary winding travel=
s through the distributor and the plug wires, out to the spark plugs. The d=
istributor and plug wires will be discussed later but first, here is a disc=
ussion of the coil.=C2=A0The ignition coil is an autoformer. That is, it is=
 a transformer with one side of the primary winding and one side of the sec=
ondary winding connected together. This side of the circuit is connected to=
 the coil&#39;s ( - ) or &#39;CB&#39; post. The later descriptor means Cont=
act Block and is a better designation since this is also the connection for=
 older positive earth cars like the MG T-series of cars. In that case, the =
( - ) marking is a misnomer.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0A transformer is a voltage multiplier. Any deeper discuss=
ion of electromagnetic theory is not helpful for our purposes. Stated more =
simply, the coil&#39;s secondary contains thousands more turns of wire than=
 does the primary. Both are wound around a soft iron core. The ratio of tur=
ns, primary to secondary, defines how much the primary voltage is &#39;step=
ped up&#39;. An automobile coil typically produces about 20,000 volts at th=
e secondary, from its 12 volts primary. This is the voltage that is fed to =
the plugs.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Some ignition designs incorporate a ballast resistor in s=
eries with the coil&#39;s primary circuit. The reason for this design will =
become apparent shortly. A conventional coil is designed for 12 volts, appl=
ied directly to the primary. The primary coil winding is typically about 3 =
ohms resistance. So at 12 volts, a current of 4 amps, flows. ( I =3D E /R )=
 All is well and good for normal operation but what about start up? During =
cold weather the starter has to work harder to spin the engine. And when do=
ing so, it demands more current from the battery. In fact, the battery volt=
age is pulled down to 9 volts or less during these cold starts. We&#39;ve a=
ll seen the lights dim during starting. Unfortunately, reduced primary volt=
age also results in reduced secondary voltage, thereby weakening the spark =
right when it needs to be the strongest! The ballasted coil design addresse=
s this problem.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Under normal operation, a ballasted ignition works just l=
ike a regular ignition, but the components are different. Designs vary but =
basically, a ballasted coil&#39;s primary resistance is on the order of 1.6=
 ohms, rather than the 3 ohms of a conventional coil. Inserted in the prima=
ry circuit path is a ballast resistor of about 1.4 ohms. The sum of the pri=
mary coil winding and the ballast resistor in series, is still 3 ohms. The =
ignition current is the same 4 amps as with a conventional coil. The same h=
ot spark is provided when the engine is running. The tricky and useful bit =
of a ballasted ignition happens at cold start.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0When starting, voltage from the ignition switch is applie=
d directly to the coil, bypassing the ballast resistor. Assuming the starte=
r is pulling the available battery voltage down to about 9 volts, the 1.6 o=
hm coil now sees 9 volts at it&#39;s primary, for a current of 5.6 amps! So=
 even with the starter pulling down the available voltage, the ignition sti=
ll provides a hotter spark for easy starting. Of course, the numbers quoted=
 here are generic and they vary with manufacturer, but the concept is the s=
ame. Ballasted ignitions are implemented to facilitate cold engine starts.<=
br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The ignition&#39;s secondary voltage is not continuous. R=
ather, it is a pulsed system operating under the control of the distributor=
. This device is actually two devices integrated into one case. The high vo=
ltage or &#39;high tension&#39; stated in old-speak, is distributed to the =
spark plugs, via the plug wires, by this part of the distributor, thus the =
name. The other part of the distributor pulses and times the spark by contr=
olling the coil&#39;s primary circuit. Both are now discussed.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0High voltage distribution is achieved by a rotating conta=
ctor, aptly termed the &#39;rotor&#39;. This device is fed secondary voltag=
e at it&#39;s center via a contact in the distributor cap. Located around t=
he inside of the cap are electrical contacts leading to the connectors on t=
he outside and to which plug wires, and therefore, the plugs are connected.=
=C2=A0The distributor rotates at one half of the engine crankshaft speed be=
cause of the engine&#39;s Otto Cycle or 4-stroke design. The rotor spins ar=
ound the inside of the cap allowing a precisely timed spark to occur betwee=
n the rotor and the appropriate contact in the cap. That voltage then fires=
 the spark plug on the correct cylinder at the optimal time to ignite the c=
harge.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The other function of the distributor is to pulse the coi=
l&#39;s primary at the right times, and to provide a circuit path for the c=
oil&#39;s secondary. The first part of this process is rather well understo=
od by most mechanics, but the later bit remains shrouded in mystery. Here i=
s an explanation.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Inside of the distributor is a cam with the same number o=
f &#39;lobes&#39; as the engine has cylinders. Riding on the cam and mounte=
d on the &#39;breaker plate&#39; are a set of contacts, also called &#39;po=
ints&#39;. The lobes of the cam cause the points to open and close. When cl=
osed, the coil primary is grounded allowing a magnetic field to grow to sat=
uration in the coil. When the points open the magnetic field collapses and =
induces a high voltage in the secondary winding. It is this voltage that pr=
ovides the sparks. Therefore, the spark timing is set at the time the point=
s open, not close.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Before discussing timing, the purpose of the condenser sh=
ould be understood. One side of this device is grounded to the breaker plat=
e. The other side of the condenser is connected to the coil-side of the poi=
nts. When the points open, the coil is electrically isolated from earth gro=
und, except through the condenser, and thus its purpose. The coil&#39;s fie=
ld collapses induces a high voltage in the secondary. The purpose of the co=
ndenser is to provide a current path for that circuit. Many workers claim t=
hat the condenser is there to prevent secondary arcing across the points, b=
ut that is a benefit, not the reason for the condenser.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Of primary importance is when the spark plugs fire, and t=
his timing is also controlled by the distributor. The breaker plate, descri=
bed above, is arranged so that it may rotate a few degrees. The rotor is at=
tached to a shaft that also may rotate a few degrees, if by a different mec=
hanism. The former is modulated by a vacuum capsule, or perhaps two of them=
. The later is rotated by a set of rotating weights, acting against two spr=
ings, sometimes of different spring constants. In the vernacular, the capsu=
les are called the &#39;vacuum advance&#39;. The flying weights are called =
the &#39;centrifugal advance&#39;. In both cases, the word &#39;advance&#39=
; is the key. And before discussing ignition timing, the characteristics of=
 the burning charge will be discussed.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The goal of any ignition is to arrange for the MEP (Mean =
Effective Pressure) caused by combustion, to occur where it can do the most=
 work. Therefore, timing the ignition is actually timing the MEP to the opt=
imal piston position. Fortunately the engine designers have worked through =
the maths and have done all the experiments to simplify our task to reading=
 the manual and making a few adjustments! That said, it is still of value t=
o understand why the timing must be varied.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The charge does not immediately flash to fully combusted,=
 as our experiences with flammable liquids might imply. Rather, the charge =
is ignited at the spark plug and the &#39;flame front&#39; then progresses =
across the combustion chamber. The MEP is not achieved instantaneously eith=
er so the ignition of the charge has to be in advance of the MEP. This woul=
d all seems easy enough to understand if the engine operated at one speed o=
nly...but it doesn&#39;t.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0At slow engine speeds, such as slow idle, the spark timin=
g has to occur so that the MEP does the most work. In most engine designs t=
his is the &#39;static timing&#39; and is typically a few degrees BTDC or &=
#39;Before Top Dead Center&#39;. Why before? The spark ignites the charge e=
arly enough to allow for the travel time of the flame front and for the pre=
ssure to build to the MEP.=C2=A0As the engine speed increases, the travel t=
ime of the flame front does not, but the piston is moving faster! Therefore=
, to place the MEP at the optimal piston position, the charge must be ignit=
ed earlier. And this is the sole purpose for the timing advance mechanisms =
in the distributor.=C2=A0The author could write more about the centrifugal =
advance curve or how the vacuum advance mechanism compensates for engine lo=
ad, but those are topics better left for later.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0One of the typical failure modes in old British car ignitions i=
s the points. With use, the contacts tend to burn and the insulating wiper =
riding on the cam wears. In both cases, the timing suffers eventually endin=
g in ignition failure. For about <span class=3D"money">$120</span> the whol=
e ignition primary can be upgraded by using a Pertronix Ignitor instead of =
the points and condenser. This device includes a circular adapter that fits=
 over the cam. Imbedded in the adapter are tiny magnets that spin adjacent =
to the ignition module. Impulses from the magnets cause the internal circui=
t to pulse the ignition electronically, with no moving parts! This system p=
rovides a maintenance free ignition primary.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Unfortunately, the rest of the old distributor components=
 are typically worn or damaged. Most old British cars enjoyed by collectors=
 are 40-years-old or older! A lot of wear can happen in 40+ years. Bushings=
 wear from lack of lubrication, pivots wear in the advance mechanisms, and =
previous owners may have done quite nefarious things! The author has even f=
ound ball point pen (biro) springs substituted for the springs on the centr=
ifugal advance! There are three choices available to remedy these problems:=
 totally rebuild the distributor - a task beyond the skill set of most amat=
eur mechanics, buy a period-correct replacement distributor, either new or =
professionally rebuilt, or buy a new Pertronix distributor, already equippe=
d with an electronic primary trigger system.<br>=C2=A0 =C2=A0Symptoms of di=
stributor wear include the inability to set a smooth, slow idle, and timing=
 instability at low engine speeds as indicated by a timing light. The autho=
r recommends the Pertronix distributor. His MG TD and TR3b both have these =
upgrades and both have beautifully smooth slow idles, and trouble free igni=
tions.<br></div></div>

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 07:29:54 2019
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References: <d38b2e58-a3a2-decc-f004-fd42e2e912cb@adelphia.net>
To: six pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2019 09:26:36 -0400
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101
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 JkNGuUGQcS4bIU8A7WlgNLjik2+nsQVkJWDng3OA4W3zE2wO2nbHWVrxZ0hqTIa0UGHNVJWdsTVxwA==
Subject: [6pack] speedo cable
From: Bob via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Hello,

I need to replace the speedo cable on my 72 6.

A few years ago someone posted a link to a guy who sold them and they 
were of high quality. I had the link but it is on my old gone to heaven 
desktop.

Can anyone post the contact info please if they have it?

Thanks,

Bob in Central NY


--------------117AADCC0C1070345606E053
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  </head>
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        cellpadding="0" border="0">
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            <th valign="BASELINE" nowrap="nowrap" align="RIGHT"><br>
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        </tbody>
      </table>
      Hello,<br>
      <br>
      I need to replace the speedo cable on my 72 6.<br>
      <br>
      A few years ago someone posted a link to a guy who sold them and
      they were of high quality. I had the link but it is on my old gone
      to heaven desktop.<br>
      <br>
      Can anyone post the contact info please if they have it?<br>
      <br>
      Thanks,<br>
      <br>
      Bob in Central NY<br>
      <br>
    </div>
  </body>
</html>

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 11:19:36 2019
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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2019 07:19:14 -1000
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Restoration, on a budget: zinc
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2473417165839371948==

--000000000000605d7305902b13cd

Hello Friends,
   My family is from Scotland and the phrase, 'Scott free' is not just an
accident. We are frugal. Said another way, we tend to know how to
economize.  Here's an example.
   My TR6 project, independent of how pretty it turns out, is to be a
'driver'. Its not original but its also not butchered. Now let me put this
and the previous paragraph together.
   Around here, having parts plated with yellow zinc chromate is a
challenge. Either a shop to do the work is hard to find or said shop looses
NLA parts! The hassle, risk, and the cost are just not worth it for a
'driver'. So what does one do? Paint...and I don't mean a fancy, expensive
multi-step kit.
   I just go to the autoparts store and select a can of spray touchup paint
in about yellow zinc chromate color. I then spray the clean and degreased
part with a light coat of silver/aluminum engine paint. Then, while the
silver paint is still wet, I spray a very light dusting of the chosen
yellow-gold color paint, sprayed from way back so that it isn't even. The
color dusting melts into the silver paint leaving a pleasant almost yellow
zinc appearance. Perfect? Oh heck no. But it is certainly acceptable for my
driver projects, and the cost is about eight dollars to do every part
needed on a dozen cars!
   Here are the door latches for my TR6. They will be just fine.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190227_094022.jpg

   Here are the window lift bits, done the same, for no reason other than
they needed rust proofing - and I wanted to do so. Also helped with the
practicing.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190306_110721.jpg

Rick

--000000000000605d7305902b13cd
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto">Hello Friends,</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0My family is from Scotland and the phrase, &#39;Scott free&#39=
; is not just an accident. We are frugal. Said another way, we tend to know=
 how to economize.=C2=A0 Here&#39;s an example.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0My TR6 project, independent of how pretty it turns out, is to be =
a &#39;driver&#39;. Its not original but its also not butchered. Now let me=
 put this and the previous paragraph together.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0Around here, having parts plated with yellow zinc=C2=A0<span styl=
e=3D"font-family:sans-serif">chromate</span>=C2=A0is a challenge. Either a =
shop to do the work is hard to find or said shop looses NLA parts! The hass=
le, risk, and the cost are just not worth it for a &#39;driver&#39;. So wha=
t does one do? Paint...and I don&#39;t mean a fancy, expensive multi-step k=
it.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I just go to the autoparts store an=
d select a can of spray touchup paint in about yellow zinc chromate color. =
I then spray the clean and degreased part with a light coat of silver/alumi=
num engine paint. Then, while the silver paint is still wet, I spray a very=
 light dusting of the chosen yellow-gold color paint, sprayed from way back=
 so that it isn&#39;t even. The color dusting melts into the silver paint l=
eaving a pleasant almost yellow zinc appearance. Perfect? Oh heck no. But i=
t is certainly acceptable for my driver projects, and the cost is about eig=
ht dollars to do every part needed on a dozen cars!</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Here are the door latches for my TR6. They will be just fine.<=
/div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/201=
90227_094022.jpg">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190227_094022.jpg</a><div d=
ir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Here are the window li=
ft bits, done the same, for no reason other than they needed rust proofing =
- and I wanted to do so. Also helped with the practicing.</div><div dir=3D"=
auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20=
190306_110721.jpg">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190306_110721.jpg</a><br><=
/div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div></div>

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--===============2473417165839371948==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 12:06:59 2019
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References: <CAOc+-dzUw2xh=7fvpPBygLrmcL=vCXW8J53zRBDF20mjHR4A1g@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2019 08:03:44 -1000
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition (Loooong
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2028525827880285170==

--0000000000007bb2d405902bb2ba
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Sorry Friends,
   I did not mean for the text to read like an ad for Pertronix. That text
was written for a friend having ignition problems and it WAS a
recommendation for him to buy the Pertronix distributor. I have just found
that the module and the full distributer worked so well for me. I should
drop the name from the text and use the generic terms.

Rick

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 5:44 PM Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hello Friends,
>    Here is the next piece that I wrote a bit ago. I hope you find them
> informative.
>
>    In this work, the function of the ignition condenser is debatable. Som=
e
> have considered these words apocryphal. Some have offered alternative
> discussion. And some have found them based in elementary physics. You
> decide.
>
> Rick
>
> Ignition System
>
>    The ignition system on older British sports cars is comprised of a
> number of components, all of which need to be in top operating condition
> for maximum performance. Working backwards from the engine, these parts a=
re
> the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor, coil, and in some cases, a
> ballast resistor.
>
>    Spark plugs, or 'sparking plugs' as they are quoted in the British car
> manuals, are the components that ignite the charge. An electric spark fro=
m
> the center electrode to ground heats the charge, ionizing it and starting
> oxidation. The 'flame front' then travels across the combustion chamber. =
As
> it does so, the MEP, or Mean Effective Pressure, increases to a maximum,
> pushing the piston down the bore. More on that later but first, here is t=
he
> anatomy of a spark(ing) plug.
>
>    The plug is an electrical device. It has a central electrode extending
> from a connection at the outside, to a tip inside the combustion chamber.
> It is supported by and sealed within a ceramic insulator. The exposed
> length of the ceramic insulator sets the 'heat range' of the plug. Short
> insulators conduct heat away from the tip more quickly. Long ones cool mo=
re
> slowly. Too cold and deposits are left on the tip and insulator. Too hot
> and the tip material may burn and remain too hot, causing pre-ignition of
> the charge. The engine designers understood the heat characteristics of t=
he
> various engines and have specified the ideal heat range for plugs in each
> application.
>
>    Plug choices are like oil choices. Every manufacturer has a marketing
> campaign claiming their plug is the best. And like the oil additive
> industry, there are a number of added-on doodads to plug tip design.
>
>    The most basic plug electrode design, and the design for which these
> older engines were intended, is a plug with a copper or copper plated
> central electrode and a steel ground or earth electrode extending from th=
e
> edge of the threads, going up and over the central tip. The gap between t=
he
> tip and the ground will be discussed later.
>
>    Arguably, the biggest improvement in spark plug design is the
> application of rare metals to the tip design. Platinum and iridium are us=
ed
> because they withstand high heat better than copper. Copper tends to melt
> and burn away with use. These high-end plugs will probably outlast the
> engine, unless contaminated.
>
>    Other manufacturers, eager to capture market share, have engineered ne=
w
> plug designs utilizing multiple ground electrodes in various orientations=
,
> each claiming superior performance, greater power and extended life. They
> are a waste of time and money in this author's opinion. Premium platinum =
or
> iridium plugs are the author=E2=80=99s plugs of choice. Old design copper=
 electrode
> plugs are perfectly acceptable too, but expect to re-gap or change the
> plugs as part of the routine maintenance.
>    The 'reach' of a plug is the length of the threaded portion of the
> body. It is the bit that screws into the head. The reach must match the
> engine maker's design. Too short and the spark doesn't occur within the
> combustion chamber. Too long and the plug extends too far into the
> combustion chamber, inviting physical damage. Plug reach must match the
> engine designer's specification.
>    Regardless of the type of plug chosen, assuming the reach and heat
> range are correct, the plug threads should be lubricated before
> installation. Copper infused thread lubricant, applied sparingly to the n=
ew
> plug threads, is ideal. This is very important for engines with alloy
> heads! The plug's steel threads can easily damage the head=E2=80=99s soft=
er alloy
> plug-hole threads. This can happen either by physical damage, such as
> cross-threading or over-tightening, or by the action of dissimilar metals
> placed in contact. Thread lubricant minimizes head damage. The author use=
s
> lubricant even for iron heads since the copper particles marginally impro=
ve
> heat flow, thereby cooling the plug. Perhaps that's over-kill but it
> certainly makes plug changes easier.
>    Before installing the spark plugs, the electrode gap should be set. A
> typical gap is 0.025", or 0.64mm, and this is often the gap found, straig=
ht
> out of the plug's box. However, the engine maker=E2=80=99s specification =
should be
> followed and the gap set properly. In all cases, the gap is set by bendin=
g
> the ground electrode, never by touching the central electrode. That eleme=
nt
> is surrounded by brittle ceramic and may be damaged.
>    The physicist in the author requires that he write a little bit about
> the anatomy of the spark. The spark is comprised of two phenomena; the
> capacitive component that lasts only a few microseconds, and the much
> longer electrical component that produces the big, fat, hot spark. It is
> argued that a properly tuned and warmed up engine can run on the capaciti=
ve
> component only, but they never do. Rather, the high voltage electrical
> spark is needed to heat the charge, thereby vaporizing any wetted charge =
on
> the electrodes, and further promoting ionization of the charge between th=
e
> electrodes. And this is where proper electrode gap becomes important. A
> wider gap provides a hotter spark as is required to adequately heat the
> charge, especially for cold starts. However, a wider gap requires more
> secondary voltage to spark. This topic leads us to the ignition coil.
>    High voltage from the coil's secondary winding travels through the
> distributor and the plug wires, out to the spark plugs. The distributor a=
nd
> plug wires will be discussed later but first, here is a discussion of the
> coil. The ignition coil is an autoformer. That is, it is a transformer wi=
th
> one side of the primary winding and one side of the secondary winding
> connected together. This side of the circuit is connected to the coil's (=
 -
> ) or 'CB' post. The later descriptor means Contact Block and is a better
> designation since this is also the connection for older positive earth ca=
rs
> like the MG T-series of cars. In that case, the ( - ) marking is a misnom=
er.
>
>    A transformer is a voltage multiplier. Any deeper discussion of
> electromagnetic theory is not helpful for our purposes. Stated more simpl=
y,
> the coil's secondary contains thousands more turns of wire than does the
> primary. Both are wound around a soft iron core. The ratio of turns,
> primary to secondary, defines how much the primary voltage is 'stepped up=
'.
> An automobile coil typically produces about 20,000 volts at the secondary=
,
> from its 12 volts primary. This is the voltage that is fed to the plugs.
>
>    Some ignition designs incorporate a ballast resistor in series with th=
e
> coil's primary circuit. The reason for this design will become apparent
> shortly. A conventional coil is designed for 12 volts, applied directly t=
o
> the primary. The primary coil winding is typically about 3 ohms resistanc=
e.
> So at 12 volts, a current of 4 amps, flows. ( I =3D E /R ) All is well an=
d
> good for normal operation but what about start up? During cold weather th=
e
> starter has to work harder to spin the engine. And when doing so, it
> demands more current from the battery. In fact, the battery voltage is
> pulled down to 9 volts or less during these cold starts. We've all seen t=
he
> lights dim during starting. Unfortunately, reduced primary voltage also
> results in reduced secondary voltage, thereby weakening the spark right
> when it needs to be the strongest! The ballasted coil design addresses th=
is
> problem.
>
>    Under normal operation, a ballasted ignition works just like a regular
> ignition, but the components are different. Designs vary but basically, a
> ballasted coil's primary resistance is on the order of 1.6 ohms, rather
> than the 3 ohms of a conventional coil. Inserted in the primary circuit
> path is a ballast resistor of about 1.4 ohms. The sum of the primary coil
> winding and the ballast resistor in series, is still 3 ohms. The ignition
> current is the same 4 amps as with a conventional coil. The same hot spar=
k
> is provided when the engine is running. The tricky and useful bit of a
> ballasted ignition happens at cold start.
>
>    When starting, voltage from the ignition switch is applied directly to
> the coil, bypassing the ballast resistor. Assuming the starter is pulling
> the available battery voltage down to about 9 volts, the 1.6 ohm coil now
> sees 9 volts at it's primary, for a current of 5.6 amps! So even with the
> starter pulling down the available voltage, the ignition still provides a
> hotter spark for easy starting. Of course, the numbers quoted here are
> generic and they vary with manufacturer, but the concept is the same.
> Ballasted ignitions are implemented to facilitate cold engine starts.
>    The ignition's secondary voltage is not continuous. Rather, it is a
> pulsed system operating under the control of the distributor. This device
> is actually two devices integrated into one case. The high voltage or 'hi=
gh
> tension' stated in old-speak, is distributed to the spark plugs, via the
> plug wires, by this part of the distributor, thus the name. The other par=
t
> of the distributor pulses and times the spark by controlling the coil's
> primary circuit. Both are now discussed.
>    High voltage distribution is achieved by a rotating contactor, aptly
> termed the 'rotor'. This device is fed secondary voltage at it's center v=
ia
> a contact in the distributor cap. Located around the inside of the cap ar=
e
> electrical contacts leading to the connectors on the outside and to which
> plug wires, and therefore, the plugs are connected. The distributor rotat=
es
> at one half of the engine crankshaft speed because of the engine's Otto
> Cycle or 4-stroke design. The rotor spins around the inside of the cap
> allowing a precisely timed spark to occur between the rotor and the
> appropriate contact in the cap. That voltage then fires the spark plug on
> the correct cylinder at the optimal time to ignite the charge.
>    The other function of the distributor is to pulse the coil's primary a=
t
> the right times, and to provide a circuit path for the coil's secondary.
> The first part of this process is rather well understood by most mechanic=
s,
> but the later bit remains shrouded in mystery. Here is an explanation.
>    Inside of the distributor is a cam with the same number of 'lobes' as
> the engine has cylinders. Riding on the cam and mounted on the 'breaker
> plate' are a set of contacts, also called 'points'. The lobes of the cam
> cause the points to open and close. When closed, the coil primary is
> grounded allowing a magnetic field to grow to saturation in the coil. Whe=
n
> the points open the magnetic field collapses and induces a high voltage i=
n
> the secondary winding. It is this voltage that provides the sparks.
> Therefore, the spark timing is set at the time the points open, not close=
.
>
>    Before discussing timing, the purpose of the condenser should be
> understood. One side of this device is grounded to the breaker plate. The
> other side of the condenser is connected to the coil-side of the points.
> When the points open, the coil is electrically isolated from earth ground=
,
> except through the condenser, and thus its purpose. The coil's field
> collapses induces a high voltage in the secondary. The purpose of the
> condenser is to provide a current path for that circuit. Many workers cla=
im
> that the condenser is there to prevent secondary arcing across the points=
,
> but that is a benefit, not the reason for the condenser.
>    Of primary importance is when the spark plugs fire, and this timing is
> also controlled by the distributor. The breaker plate, described above, i=
s
> arranged so that it may rotate a few degrees. The rotor is attached to a
> shaft that also may rotate a few degrees, if by a different mechanism. Th=
e
> former is modulated by a vacuum capsule, or perhaps two of them. The late=
r
> is rotated by a set of rotating weights, acting against two springs,
> sometimes of different spring constants. In the vernacular, the capsules
> are called the 'vacuum advance'. The flying weights are called the
> 'centrifugal advance'. In both cases, the word 'advance' is the key. And
> before discussing ignition timing, the characteristics of the burning
> charge will be discussed.
>    The goal of any ignition is to arrange for the MEP (Mean Effective
> Pressure) caused by combustion, to occur where it can do the most work.
> Therefore, timing the ignition is actually timing the MEP to the optimal
> piston position. Fortunately the engine designers have worked through the
> maths and have done all the experiments to simplify our task to reading t=
he
> manual and making a few adjustments! That said, it is still of value to
> understand why the timing must be varied.
>    The charge does not immediately flash to fully combusted, as our
> experiences with flammable liquids might imply. Rather, the charge is
> ignited at the spark plug and the 'flame front' then progresses across th=
e
> combustion chamber. The MEP is not achieved instantaneously either so the
> ignition of the charge has to be in advance of the MEP. This would all
> seems easy enough to understand if the engine operated at one speed
> only...but it doesn't.
>    At slow engine speeds, such as slow idle, the spark timing has to occu=
r
> so that the MEP does the most work. In most engine designs this is the
> 'static timing' and is typically a few degrees BTDC or 'Before Top Dead
> Center'. Why before? The spark ignites the charge early enough to allow f=
or
> the travel time of the flame front and for the pressure to build to the
> MEP. As the engine speed increases, the travel time of the flame front do=
es
> not, but the piston is moving faster! Therefore, to place the MEP at the
> optimal piston position, the charge must be ignited earlier. And this is
> the sole purpose for the timing advance mechanisms in the distributor. Th=
e
> author could write more about the centrifugal advance curve or how the
> vacuum advance mechanism compensates for engine load, but those are topic=
s
> better left for later.
>   One of the typical failure modes in old British car ignitions is the
> points. With use, the contacts tend to burn and the insulating wiper ridi=
ng
> on the cam wears. In both cases, the timing suffers eventually ending in
> ignition failure. For about $120 the whole ignition primary can be
> upgraded by using a Pertronix Ignitor instead of the points and condenser=
.
> This device includes a circular adapter that fits over the cam. Imbedded =
in
> the adapter are tiny magnets that spin adjacent to the ignition module.
> Impulses from the magnets cause the internal circuit to pulse the ignitio=
n
> electronically, with no moving parts! This system provides a maintenance
> free ignition primary.
>    Unfortunately, the rest of the old distributor components are typicall=
y
> worn or damaged. Most old British cars enjoyed by collectors are
> 40-years-old or older! A lot of wear can happen in 40+ years. Bushings we=
ar
> from lack of lubrication, pivots wear in the advance mechanisms, and
> previous owners may have done quite nefarious things! The author has even
> found ball point pen (biro) springs substituted for the springs on the
> centrifugal advance! There are three choices available to remedy these
> problems: totally rebuild the distributor - a task beyond the skill set o=
f
> most amateur mechanics, buy a period-correct replacement distributor,
> either new or professionally rebuilt, or buy a new Pertronix distributor,
> already equipped with an electronic primary trigger system.
>    Symptoms of distributor wear include the inability to set a smooth,
> slow idle, and timing instability at low engine speeds as indicated by a
> timing light. The author recommends the Pertronix distributor. His MG TD
> and TR3b both have these upgrades and both have beautifully smooth slow
> idles, and trouble free ignitions.
>

--0000000000007bb2d405902bb2ba
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div>Sorry Friends,</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I=
 did not mean for the text to read like an ad for Pertronix. That text was =
written for a friend having ignition problems and it WAS a recommendation f=
or him to buy the Pertronix distributor. I have just found that the module =
and the full distributer worked so well for me. I should drop the name from=
 the text and use the generic terms.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div =
dir=3D"auto">Rick<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=
=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 5:44 PM Richard Lindsay=
 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:richardolindsay@gmail.com">richardolindsay@gmail.com=
</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:=
0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><=
div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">Hello Friends,</div><div =
dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Here is the next=
 piece that I wrote a bit ago. I hope you find them informative.=C2=A0</div=
><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif"><br></div><div dir=3D"a=
uto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0In this work, the functi=
on of the ignition condenser is debatable. Some have considered these words=
 apocryphal. Some have offered alternative discussion. And some have found =
them based in elementary physics. You decide.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=
=3D"font-family:sans-serif"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-famil=
y:sans-serif">Rick</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=
<br></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">Ignition Syste=
m<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The ignition system on older British sports cars is compr=
ised of a number of components, all of which need to be in top operating co=
ndition for maximum performance. Working backwards from the engine, these p=
arts are the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor, coil, and in some cases,=
 a ballast resistor.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Spark plugs, or &#39;sparking plugs&#39; as they are quot=
ed in the British car manuals, are the components that ignite the charge. A=
n electric spark from the center electrode to ground heats the charge, ioni=
zing it and starting oxidation. The &#39;flame front&#39; then travels acro=
ss the combustion chamber. As it does so, the MEP, or Mean Effective Pressu=
re, increases to a maximum, pushing the piston down the bore. More on that =
later but first, here is the anatomy of a spark(ing) plug.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The plug is an electrical device. It has a central electr=
ode extending from a connection at the outside, to a tip inside the combust=
ion chamber. It is supported by and sealed within a ceramic insulator. The =
exposed length of the ceramic insulator sets the &#39;heat range&#39; of th=
e plug. Short insulators conduct heat away from the tip more quickly. Long =
ones cool more slowly. Too cold and deposits are left on the tip and insula=
tor. Too hot and the tip material may burn and remain too hot, causing pre-=
ignition of the charge. The engine designers understood the heat characteri=
stics of the various engines and have specified the ideal heat range for pl=
ugs in each application.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Plug choices are like oil choices. Every manufacturer has=
 a marketing campaign claiming their plug is the best. And like the oil add=
itive industry, there are a number of added-on doodads to plug tip design.<=
br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The most basic plug electrode design, and the design for =
which these older engines were intended, is a plug with a copper or copper =
plated central electrode and a steel ground or earth electrode extending fr=
om the edge of the threads, going up and over the central tip. The gap betw=
een the tip and the ground will be discussed later.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Arguably, the biggest improvement in spark plug design is=
 the application of rare metals to the tip design. Platinum and iridium are=
 used because they withstand high heat better than copper. Copper tends to =
melt and burn away with use. These high-end plugs will probably outlast the=
 engine, unless contaminated.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Other manufacturers, eager to capture market share, have =
engineered new plug designs utilizing multiple ground electrodes in various=
 orientations, each claiming superior performance, greater power and extend=
ed life. They are a waste of time and money in this author&#39;s opinion. P=
remium platinum or iridium plugs are the author=E2=80=99s plugs of choice. =
Old design copper electrode plugs are perfectly acceptable too, but expect =
to re-gap or change the plugs as part of the routine maintenance.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The &#39;reach&#39; of a plug is the length of the thread=
ed portion of the body. It is the bit that screws into the head. The reach =
must match the engine maker&#39;s design. Too short and the spark doesn&#39=
;t occur within the combustion chamber. Too long and the plug extends too f=
ar into the combustion chamber, inviting physical damage. Plug reach must m=
atch the engine designer&#39;s specification.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Regardless of the type of plug chosen, assuming the reach=
 and heat range are correct, the plug threads should be lubricated before i=
nstallation. Copper infused thread lubricant, applied sparingly to the new =
plug threads, is ideal. This is very important for engines with alloy heads=
! The plug&#39;s steel threads can easily damage the head=E2=80=99s softer =
alloy plug-hole threads. This can happen either by physical damage, such as=
 cross-threading or over-tightening, or by the action of dissimilar metals =
placed in contact. Thread lubricant minimizes head damage. The author uses =
lubricant even for iron heads since the copper particles marginally improve=
 heat flow, thereby cooling the plug. Perhaps that&#39;s over-kill but it c=
ertainly makes plug changes easier.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Before installing the spark plugs, the electrode gap shou=
ld be set. A typical gap is 0.025&quot;, or 0.64mm, and this is often the g=
ap found, straight out of the plug&#39;s box. However, the engine maker=E2=
=80=99s specification should be followed and the gap set properly. In all c=
ases, the gap is set by bending the ground electrode, never by touching the=
 central electrode. That element is surrounded by brittle ceramic and may b=
e damaged.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The physicist in the author requires that he write a litt=
le bit about the anatomy of the spark. The spark is comprised of two phenom=
ena; the capacitive component that lasts only a few microseconds, and the m=
uch longer electrical component that produces the big, fat, hot spark. It i=
s argued that a properly tuned and warmed up engine can run on the capaciti=
ve component only, but they never do. Rather, the high voltage electrical s=
park is needed to heat the charge, thereby vaporizing any wetted charge on =
the electrodes, and further promoting ionization of the charge between the =
electrodes. And this is where proper electrode gap becomes important. A wid=
er gap provides a hotter spark as is required to adequately heat the charge=
, especially for cold starts. However, a wider gap requires more secondary =
voltage to spark. This topic leads us to the ignition coil.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0High voltage from the coil&#39;s secondary winding travel=
s through the distributor and the plug wires, out to the spark plugs. The d=
istributor and plug wires will be discussed later but first, here is a disc=
ussion of the coil.=C2=A0The ignition coil is an autoformer. That is, it is=
 a transformer with one side of the primary winding and one side of the sec=
ondary winding connected together. This side of the circuit is connected to=
 the coil&#39;s ( - ) or &#39;CB&#39; post. The later descriptor means Cont=
act Block and is a better designation since this is also the connection for=
 older positive earth cars like the MG T-series of cars. In that case, the =
( - ) marking is a misnomer.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0A transformer is a voltage multiplier. Any deeper discuss=
ion of electromagnetic theory is not helpful for our purposes. Stated more =
simply, the coil&#39;s secondary contains thousands more turns of wire than=
 does the primary. Both are wound around a soft iron core. The ratio of tur=
ns, primary to secondary, defines how much the primary voltage is &#39;step=
ped up&#39;. An automobile coil typically produces about 20,000 volts at th=
e secondary, from its 12 volts primary. This is the voltage that is fed to =
the plugs.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Some ignition designs incorporate a ballast resistor in s=
eries with the coil&#39;s primary circuit. The reason for this design will =
become apparent shortly. A conventional coil is designed for 12 volts, appl=
ied directly to the primary. The primary coil winding is typically about 3 =
ohms resistance. So at 12 volts, a current of 4 amps, flows. ( I =3D E /R )=
 All is well and good for normal operation but what about start up? During =
cold weather the starter has to work harder to spin the engine. And when do=
ing so, it demands more current from the battery. In fact, the battery volt=
age is pulled down to 9 volts or less during these cold starts. We&#39;ve a=
ll seen the lights dim during starting. Unfortunately, reduced primary volt=
age also results in reduced secondary voltage, thereby weakening the spark =
right when it needs to be the strongest! The ballasted coil design addresse=
s this problem.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Under normal operation, a ballasted ignition works just l=
ike a regular ignition, but the components are different. Designs vary but =
basically, a ballasted coil&#39;s primary resistance is on the order of 1.6=
 ohms, rather than the 3 ohms of a conventional coil. Inserted in the prima=
ry circuit path is a ballast resistor of about 1.4 ohms. The sum of the pri=
mary coil winding and the ballast resistor in series, is still 3 ohms. The =
ignition current is the same 4 amps as with a conventional coil. The same h=
ot spark is provided when the engine is running. The tricky and useful bit =
of a ballasted ignition happens at cold start.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0When starting, voltage from the ignition switch is applie=
d directly to the coil, bypassing the ballast resistor. Assuming the starte=
r is pulling the available battery voltage down to about 9 volts, the 1.6 o=
hm coil now sees 9 volts at it&#39;s primary, for a current of 5.6 amps! So=
 even with the starter pulling down the available voltage, the ignition sti=
ll provides a hotter spark for easy starting. Of course, the numbers quoted=
 here are generic and they vary with manufacturer, but the concept is the s=
ame. Ballasted ignitions are implemented to facilitate cold engine starts.<=
br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The ignition&#39;s secondary voltage is not continuous. R=
ather, it is a pulsed system operating under the control of the distributor=
. This device is actually two devices integrated into one case. The high vo=
ltage or &#39;high tension&#39; stated in old-speak, is distributed to the =
spark plugs, via the plug wires, by this part of the distributor, thus the =
name. The other part of the distributor pulses and times the spark by contr=
olling the coil&#39;s primary circuit. Both are now discussed.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0High voltage distribution is achieved by a rotating conta=
ctor, aptly termed the &#39;rotor&#39;. This device is fed secondary voltag=
e at it&#39;s center via a contact in the distributor cap. Located around t=
he inside of the cap are electrical contacts leading to the connectors on t=
he outside and to which plug wires, and therefore, the plugs are connected.=
=C2=A0The distributor rotates at one half of the engine crankshaft speed be=
cause of the engine&#39;s Otto Cycle or 4-stroke design. The rotor spins ar=
ound the inside of the cap allowing a precisely timed spark to occur betwee=
n the rotor and the appropriate contact in the cap. That voltage then fires=
 the spark plug on the correct cylinder at the optimal time to ignite the c=
harge.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The other function of the distributor is to pulse the coi=
l&#39;s primary at the right times, and to provide a circuit path for the c=
oil&#39;s secondary. The first part of this process is rather well understo=
od by most mechanics, but the later bit remains shrouded in mystery. Here i=
s an explanation.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Inside of the distributor is a cam with the same number o=
f &#39;lobes&#39; as the engine has cylinders. Riding on the cam and mounte=
d on the &#39;breaker plate&#39; are a set of contacts, also called &#39;po=
ints&#39;. The lobes of the cam cause the points to open and close. When cl=
osed, the coil primary is grounded allowing a magnetic field to grow to sat=
uration in the coil. When the points open the magnetic field collapses and =
induces a high voltage in the secondary winding. It is this voltage that pr=
ovides the sparks. Therefore, the spark timing is set at the time the point=
s open, not close.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Before discussing timing, the purpose of the condenser sh=
ould be understood. One side of this device is grounded to the breaker plat=
e. The other side of the condenser is connected to the coil-side of the poi=
nts. When the points open, the coil is electrically isolated from earth gro=
und, except through the condenser, and thus its purpose. The coil&#39;s fie=
ld collapses induces a high voltage in the secondary. The purpose of the co=
ndenser is to provide a current path for that circuit. Many workers claim t=
hat the condenser is there to prevent secondary arcing across the points, b=
ut that is a benefit, not the reason for the condenser.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Of primary importance is when the spark plugs fire, and t=
his timing is also controlled by the distributor. The breaker plate, descri=
bed above, is arranged so that it may rotate a few degrees. The rotor is at=
tached to a shaft that also may rotate a few degrees, if by a different mec=
hanism. The former is modulated by a vacuum capsule, or perhaps two of them=
. The later is rotated by a set of rotating weights, acting against two spr=
ings, sometimes of different spring constants. In the vernacular, the capsu=
les are called the &#39;vacuum advance&#39;. The flying weights are called =
the &#39;centrifugal advance&#39;. In both cases, the word &#39;advance&#39=
; is the key. And before discussing ignition timing, the characteristics of=
 the burning charge will be discussed.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The goal of any ignition is to arrange for the MEP (Mean =
Effective Pressure) caused by combustion, to occur where it can do the most=
 work. Therefore, timing the ignition is actually timing the MEP to the opt=
imal piston position. Fortunately the engine designers have worked through =
the maths and have done all the experiments to simplify our task to reading=
 the manual and making a few adjustments! That said, it is still of value t=
o understand why the timing must be varied.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0The charge does not immediately flash to fully combusted,=
 as our experiences with flammable liquids might imply. Rather, the charge =
is ignited at the spark plug and the &#39;flame front&#39; then progresses =
across the combustion chamber. The MEP is not achieved instantaneously eith=
er so the ignition of the charge has to be in advance of the MEP. This woul=
d all seems easy enough to understand if the engine operated at one speed o=
nly...but it doesn&#39;t.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0At slow engine speeds, such as slow idle, the spark timin=
g has to occur so that the MEP does the most work. In most engine designs t=
his is the &#39;static timing&#39; and is typically a few degrees BTDC or &=
#39;Before Top Dead Center&#39;. Why before? The spark ignites the charge e=
arly enough to allow for the travel time of the flame front and for the pre=
ssure to build to the MEP.=C2=A0As the engine speed increases, the travel t=
ime of the flame front does not, but the piston is moving faster! Therefore=
, to place the MEP at the optimal piston position, the charge must be ignit=
ed earlier. And this is the sole purpose for the timing advance mechanisms =
in the distributor.=C2=A0The author could write more about the centrifugal =
advance curve or how the vacuum advance mechanism compensates for engine lo=
ad, but those are topics better left for later.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0One of the typical failure modes in old British car ignitions i=
s the points. With use, the contacts tend to burn and the insulating wiper =
riding on the cam wears. In both cases, the timing suffers eventually endin=
g in ignition failure. For about <span class=3D"m_9097570549663078898money"=
>$120</span> the whole ignition primary can be upgraded by using a Pertroni=
x Ignitor instead of the points and condenser. This device includes a circu=
lar adapter that fits over the cam. Imbedded in the adapter are tiny magnet=
s that spin adjacent to the ignition module. Impulses from the magnets caus=
e the internal circuit to pulse the ignition electronically, with no moving=
 parts! This system provides a maintenance free ignition primary.<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Unfortunately, the rest of the old distributor components=
 are typically worn or damaged. Most old British cars enjoyed by collectors=
 are 40-years-old or older! A lot of wear can happen in 40+ years. Bushings=
 wear from lack of lubrication, pivots wear in the advance mechanisms, and =
previous owners may have done quite nefarious things! The author has even f=
ound ball point pen (biro) springs substituted for the springs on the centr=
ifugal advance! There are three choices available to remedy these problems:=
 totally rebuild the distributor - a task beyond the skill set of most amat=
eur mechanics, buy a period-correct replacement distributor, either new or =
professionally rebuilt, or buy a new Pertronix distributor, already equippe=
d with an electronic primary trigger system.<br>=C2=A0 =C2=A0Symptoms of di=
stributor wear include the inability to set a smooth, slow idle, and timing=
 instability at low engine speeds as indicated by a timing light. The autho=
r recommends the Pertronix distributor. His MG TD and TR3b both have these =
upgrades and both have beautifully smooth slow idles, and trouble free igni=
tions.<br></div></div>
</blockquote></div></div></div>

--0000000000007bb2d405902bb2ba--

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============2028525827880285170==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 19:39:51 2019
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 Thu, 15 Aug 2019 18:39:40 -0700 (PDT)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2019 15:39:28 -1000
To: TR6 <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Restoration, on a budget: heater
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6290775112435901195==

--000000000000577eac05903210e4

Hi Friends,

   Another project recently completed was rebuilding the TR6's heater.
Here's how it looked, partially disassembled, and just as it came out of
the car.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190315_135629.jpg

   Now please keep in mind, a heater is needed in South Texas only as a
windscreen defogger on 1% of our winter days. That said (written?), the
heater still got restored.
   I first lubricated then tested the blower motor. It ran just fine so I
didn't disassemble it. It did get a little paint to protect a few bare
metal spots. No pix.
   The heater core cleaned up nicely. I flushed it clean then straightened
a few heating fins that had probably been there for 44 years. I also
gentlycleaned the exterior of the inlet and exit pipes on the soft wire
wheel. Here's how it looks reinstalled in the repainted case.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190318_103420.jpg

   Here's another look at the heater case, freshly repainted but with the
the Smiths label carefully preserved. Trimmed Post it notes make great
masking tape for these kinds of small fragile surfaces.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190318_103426.jpg

   And finally, here is a look at the assembled box with pipe insulation
holding the air direction flap closed while the glue cured on a new thin
(1/16") closed cell foam seal.

http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190318_103403.jpg

   With everything assembled with paint and glues dried, the blower was
tested again at both speeds. It blew air strongly through the core and ran
quietly.

Rick

--000000000000577eac05903210e4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto">Hi Friends,</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br>=
</div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0Another project recently completed was rebuilding the TR=
6&#39;s heater. Here&#39;s how it looked, partially disassembled, and just =
as it came out of the car.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a =
href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190315_135629.jpg" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noreferrer">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190315_135629.jpg</a><br><=
/div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Now please =
keep in mind, a heater is needed in South Texas only as a windscreen defogg=
er on 1% of our winter days. That said (written?), the heater still got res=
tored.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I first lubricated then tested t=
he blower motor. It ran just fine so I didn&#39;t disassemble it. It did ge=
t a little paint to protect a few bare metal spots. No pix.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The heater core cleaned up nicely. I flushed it clea=
n then straightened a few heating fins that had probably been there for 44 =
years. I also gentlycleaned the exterior of the inlet and exit pipes on the=
 soft wire wheel. Here&#39;s how it looks reinstalled in the repainted case=
.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"http://auba=
rd.us/75_Triumph/20190318_103420.jpg" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">=
http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190318_103420.jpg</a><br></div><div dir=3D"au=
to"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Here&#39;s another look at the=
 heater case, freshly repainted but with the the Smiths label carefully pre=
served. Trimmed Post it notes make great masking tape for these kinds of sm=
all fragile surfaces.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a=
 href=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190318_103426.jpg" target=3D"_blank"=
 rel=3D"noreferrer">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190318_103426.jpg</a><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0And finall=
y, here is a look at the assembled box with pipe insulation holding the air=
 direction flap closed while the glue cured on a new thin (1/16&quot;) clos=
ed cell foam seal.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a hr=
ef=3D"http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190318_103403.jpg" target=3D"_blank" re=
l=3D"noreferrer">http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190318_103403.jpg</a><br></d=
iv><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0With everythi=
ng assembled with paint and glues dried, the blower was tested again at bot=
h speeds. It blew air strongly through the core and ran quietly.=C2=A0</div=
><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick</div></div>

--000000000000577eac05903210e4--

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



--===============6290775112435901195==--

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 07:47:37 2019
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References: <118637250.497906.1566072320203@mail.yahoo.com>
To: list 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2019 07:47:01 -0600
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/60.8.0
Content-Language: en-US
Subject: [6pack] Fwd: Triumph Owners
From: Mark J Bradakis via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

CgoKLS0tLS0tLS0gRm9yd2FyZGVkIE1lc3NhZ2UgLS0tLS0tLS0KU3ViamVjdDogCVRyaXVtcGgg
T3duZXJzCkRhdGU6IAlTYXQsIDE3IEF1ZyAyMDE5IDIwOjA1OjIwICswMDAwIChVVEMpCkZyb206
IAlUb20gQnV0bGVyIDx0bS5idXRsZXJAeWFob28uY29tPgpUbzogCQoKCgpXZSBhcmUgdHJ5aW5n
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c2NyaWJlL01hbmFnZTogaHR0cDovL2F1dG94LnRlYW0ubmV0L21haWxtYW4vb3B0aW9ucy82cGFj
ay9taGFyY0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldAoK

From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 21:31:08 2019
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References: <16aa42dd0fec6b0fac1b287d083ac14b.squirrel@automate-it.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66921D9C3AAF808B6DBB17D9FED20@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2019 22:27:40 -0500
To: Stan Foster <stan@redtr6.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Jim Clark tribute in The Grand Tour episode
From: Greg Lemon via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>, 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1176127543562462840==

--000000000000a12ec20590840a98

Late to this party. Just watched the bit onClark.  Not old enough to
remember Clark racing, but the tribute was very well done.  Knew he (and
other racers) participated in a lot other classes back then, and that Clark
was killed in an F2 car, didn't know he was so dominant in those other
classes as well.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Mon, Aug 12, 2019, 7:15 PM Stan Foster via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Thanks Lee. I lost interest in the Top Gear trio years ago but I very much
> enjoyed that tribute to Jim Clark.
>
> Stan
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Lee
> Daniels <lee@automate-it.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, August 10, 2019 12:31:47 AM
> *To:* 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@autox.team.net>; triumphs@autox.team.net
> <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [TR] Jim Clark tribute in The Grand Tour episode
>
> I had just about written off The Grand Tour, as the humor had become clunky
> and the real car talk had become thin. Then I watched episode 5 of season 3
> tonight. A couple of decent tests/reviews, and yes some juvenile humor,
> such
> as Jeremy ice-racing a Lambo Urus vs. Abbie Eaton in a Porsche, on a
> penis-shaped track.
>
> But then --- the tour-de-force --- a 20-minute historical tribute to Jim
> Clark, with plenty of photos and footage. Oh, my. They include interviews
> with
> a couple of his colleagues, who tear up a little - as did I.
>
> And Richard Hammond gets to drive the very Lotus 25 that Clark himself
> drove!
>
> If you have Amazon Prime, watch this one. It's episode 5 of Season 3,
> titled
> "An Itchy Urus" (of course). If you don't have an hour, jump to 00:36:00
> and
> watch the last 22 minutes, you'll be glad you did.
>
>  Lee
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan@redtr6.com
> _______________________________________________
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>

--000000000000a12ec20590840a98
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Late to this party. Just watched the bit onClark.=C2=A0 N=
ot old enough to remember Clark racing, but the tribute was very well done.=
=C2=A0 Knew he (and other racers) participated in a lot other classes back =
then, and that Clark was killed in an F2 car, didn&#39;t know he was so dom=
inant in those other classes as well.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">Greg Lemon</div><div dir=3D"auto">TR250</div></div><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Aug 12, 2019=
, 7:15 PM Stan Foster via 6pack &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net"=
>6pack@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex=
">





<div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"direction:ltr;margin:0;padding:0;font-family:san=
s-serif;font-size:11pt;color:black">
Thanks Lee. I lost interest in the Top Gear trio years ago but I very much =
enjoyed that tribute to Jim Clark.<br>
<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"direction:ltr;margin:0;padding:0;font-family:san=
s-serif;font-size:11pt;color:black">
Stan</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"m_5119459196703444867x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"=
Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b=
> Triumphs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net" target=3D=
"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>&gt; on beha=
lf of Lee Daniels &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:lee@automate-it.com" target=3D"_bla=
nk" rel=3D"noreferrer">lee@automate-it.com</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, August 10, 2019 12:31:47 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D=
"noreferrer">6pack@autox.team.net</a> &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.tea=
m.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">6pack@autox.team.net</a>&gt;; <=
a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferr=
er">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.n=
et" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br=
>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] Jim Clark tribute in The Grand Tour episode</font>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
</div>
<font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt">
<div class=3D"m_5119459196703444867PlainText">I had just about written off =
The Grand Tour, as the humor had become clunky<br>
and the real car talk had become thin. Then I watched episode 5 of season 3=
<br>
tonight. A couple of decent tests/reviews, and yes some juvenile humor, suc=
h<br>
as Jeremy ice-racing a Lambo Urus vs. Abbie Eaton in a Porsche, on a<br>
penis-shaped track.<br>
<br>
But then --- the tour-de-force --- a 20-minute historical tribute to Jim<br=
>
Clark, with plenty of photos and footage. Oh, my. They include interviews w=
ith<br>
a couple of his colleagues, who tear up a little - as did I.<br>
<br>
And Richard Hammond gets to drive the very Lotus 25 that Clark himself drov=
e!<br>
<br>
If you have Amazon Prime, watch this one. It&#39;s episode 5 of Season 3, t=
itled<br>
&quot;An Itchy Urus&quot; (of course). If you don&#39;t have an hour, jump =
to 00:36:00 and<br>
watch the last 22 minutes, you&#39;ll be glad you did.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0Lee<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nore=
ferrer">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br>
<br>
=3D"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" target=3D"_blan=
k" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=C2=A0
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer=
">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/stan@redtr6.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan@redtr6.com</a><br>
</div>
</span></font>
</div>

_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer=
" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
<br>
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">6pack@autox.team.net</a><br>
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noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack<=
/a><br>
<br>
grglmn@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://au=
tox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/grglmn@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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To: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	<6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2019 17:20:56 -0400
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Subject: [6pack] Lucas PI
From: Andrew Uprichard via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

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Who is the go-to guy in the US for questions on the Lucas PI system?

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan


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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Who is the go-to guy in =
the US for questions on the Lucas PI system?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Andrew =
Uprichard<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Jackson, =
Michigan<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></body></html>
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References: <00ca01d55eaf$a6643350$f32c99f0$@uprichard.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2019 16:30:26 -0500
To: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Lucas PI
From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3048771214588105570==

--0000000000008aa7340591483742

Wow. Tough question. No clue. Good luck.

On Thu, Aug 29, 2019, 4:21 PM Andrew Uprichard via 6pack <
6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:

> Who is the go-to guy in the US for questions on the Lucas PI system?
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> Jackson, Michigan
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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<div dir=3D"auto"><div>Wow. Tough question. No clue. Good luck.<br><br><div=
 class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Aug 29=
, 2019, 4:21 PM Andrew Uprichard via 6pack &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:6pack@auto=
x.team.net">6pack@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padd=
ing-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple"><div class=
=3D"m_-8941079157474194237WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=
=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Who is the g=
o-to guy in the US for questions on the Lucas PI system?<u></u><u></u></spa=
n></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Rom=
an&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoN=
ormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&q=
uot;">Andrew Uprichard<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span=
 style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;">Jackso=
n, Michigan<u></u><u></u></span></p></div></div>___________________________=
____________________<br>
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer=
" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer=
">6pack@autox.team.net</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack" rel=3D"noreferrer =
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack<=
/a><br>
<br>
richardolindsay@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay@gmail.com</a><b=
r>
<br>
</blockquote></div></div></div>

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From 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 16:49:44 2019
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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2019 23:49:31 +0100
References: <00ca01d55eaf$a6643350$f32c99f0$@uprichard.net>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Lucas PI
From: John Macartney via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>, 6pack@autox.team.net
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net


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Can I help? Did the Lucas Service course, thefactory service course and owne=
d a saloon with the pi engine to full U.K. police performance spec. Doubt yo=
u=E2=80=99ll find too many in the US with experience of the system. PI cars w=
ere never sold in North America in the day, though a very small number have s=
nuck in since then. A word of advice. If you=E2=80=99re tempted to fiddle wi=
th the PI system, put everything you=E2=80=99ve learned about carbed cars en=
tirely to one side. The Lucas system is a whole different ball game with ver=
y unique rules. That said, it=E2=80=99s a great setup but you need to know w=
hat you=E2=80=99re doing before you start:)

Jonmac

Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better t=
o lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL

> On 29 Aug 2019, at 22:20, Andrew Uprichard via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net=
> wrote:
>=20
> Who is the go-to guy in the US for questions on the Lucas PI system?
> =20
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>=20
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/john.macar=
tney@ukpips.org.uk
>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Can I help? Did the Lucas Service course, t=
hefactory service course and owned a saloon with the pi engine to full U.K. p=
olice performance spec. Doubt you=E2=80=99ll find too many in the US with ex=
perience of the system. PI cars were never sold in North America in the day,=
 though a very small number have snuck in since then. A word of advice. If y=
ou=E2=80=99re tempted to fiddle with the PI system, put everything you=E2=80=
=99ve learned about carbed cars entirely to one side. The Lucas system is a w=
hole different ball game with very unique rules. That said, it=E2=80=99s a g=
reat setup but you need to know what you=E2=80=99re doing before you start:)=
<div><br></div><div>Jonmac<br><br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"ltr"=
>Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better=
 to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL</div><div dir=3D=
"ltr"><br>On 29 Aug 2019, at 22:20, Andrew Uprichard via 6pack &lt;<a href=3D=
"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net">6pack@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></d=
iv><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Ty=
pe" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"><meta name=3D"Generator" conte=
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&=
quot;">Who is the go-to guy in the US for questions on the Lucas PI system?<=
o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot=
;Times New Roman&quot;,&quot;serif&quot;"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p cla=
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2019 18:42:16 +0000 (UTC)
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <385207747.285469.1567190536156.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 (com.yahoo.mobile.client.android.mail/5.43.3; Android/8.0.0; R16NW; heroltebmc;
 samsung; SM-G930W8; 5.09; 1920x1080; )
Subject: [6pack] Lucas pi expertise
From: Yahoo via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

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Ask the roadster factory.=C2=A0 =C2=A0charles had somebody over here that h=
elped him with his tr5

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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Ask the roadster factory.&nbsp; &nbsp;charles had somebody over here that helped him with his tr5<br><br><div id="ymail_android_signature"><a id="ymail_android_signature_link" href="https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&amp;c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&amp;af_wl=ym&amp;af_sub1=Internal&amp;af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&amp;af_sub3=EmailSignature">Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android</a></div>
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2019 18:36:24 -0500
To: Yahoo <brucesimms2003@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Lucas pi expertise
From: Greg Lemon via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8622112832925322590==

--000000000000ee596f05915e1731

Was it John Swauger (sp?) at The Roadster Factory?  I think he retired, but
still might be worth giving them a call, or Joe Curto, I know he
specializes in carbs, but may have a fuel injection connection.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 2:36 PM Yahoo via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:

> Ask the roadster factory.   charles had somebody over here that helped him
> with his tr5
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
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<div dir=3D"auto">Was it John Swauger (sp?) at The Roadster Factory?=C2=A0 =
I think he retired, but still might be worth giving them a call, or Joe Cur=
to, I know he specializes in carbs, but may have a fuel injection connectio=
n.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Greg Lemon</div><div dir=3D=
"auto">TR250</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" cla=
ss=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Aug 30, 2019, 2:36 PM Yahoo via 6pack &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net">6pack@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></d=
iv><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left=
:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Ask the roadster factory.=C2=A0 =C2=A0cha=
rles had somebody over here that helped him with his tr5<br><br><div id=3D"=
m_-3255224221998036467ymail_android_signature"><a id=3D"m_-3255224221998036=
467ymail_android_signature_link" href=3D"https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pi=
d=3DInProduct&amp;c=3DGlobal_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers=
&amp;af_wl=3Dym&amp;af_sub1=3DInternal&amp;af_sub2=3DGlobal_YGrowth&amp;af_=
sub3=3DEmailSignature" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">Sent from Yahoo=
 Mail on Android</a></div>_______________________________________________<b=
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