From alpines-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 22 09:02:06 2013
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From: "Wiencek, Thomas" <wiencek@anl.gov>
To: "drmayf@mayfco.com" <drmayf@mayfco.com>, Alpines <alpines@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Alpines] Back from the Salt Wars
Thread-Index: Acogh13pa0NETjAMT/qm/fgp/ESDi4j9gg2A
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 15:01:58 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Alpines] Back from the Salt Wars
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Maybe you should try a diesel engine in your Sunbeam?

http://www.bankspower.com/projects/show/3-sidewinder-dakota

222 MPH!!!!
_______________________________________________
Alpines@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From alpines-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 07:32:27 2013
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From: WSuman@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 09:32:09 -0400 (EDT)
To: alpines@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Alpines] New Head Bolts / Studs?
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I'm keen on replacing the 40+ year old bolts in my 1725, after blowing a  
new head gasket.
 
I've even heard of them breaking before reaching specified  torque.

None of my usual suppliers have replacements. (SS, CS or  VB)

ARP offers fine to coarse studs, not the fine to fine thread on the  stock 
motor. (will studs fit under the rocker assembly?).  Any thoughts on  
torquing with a coarse thread pitch?

I'm open to solutions current,  or historic.  Nothing found in my searches.
 
Anyone with a box of NOS bolts? Extra studs? 
 
Thank you,
Walt
'67 S-V
_______________________________________________
Alpines@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From alpines-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 07:52:40 2013
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Subject: Re: [Alpines] New Head Bolts / Studs?
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Hi Walt,


The standard studs, threads, and nuts have always worked for me.


A key part of the procedure for re-installing the head is to completely clean
the stud/bolt channels, as a build-up of crud causes the bolt to bottom out on
the crud, before fully tightening down the head, even if the max torque
setting has been reached. The correct tightening sequence is also important,
as is a re-torque after 1,000 miles or so.


A great solution would be to use the single-use bolts, which use a stretch
shoulder to ensure they do not come loose, as used on most modern cars.
However, I doubt they are available in anything but metric options.


Jules.



-----Original Message-----
From: WSuman <WSuman@aol.com>
To: alpines <alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 14:32
Subject: [Alpines] New Head Bolts / Studs?


I'm keen on replacing the 40+ year old bolts in my 1725, after blowing a
new head gasket.

I've even heard of them breaking before reaching specified  torque.

None of my usual suppliers have replacements. (SS, CS or  VB)

ARP offers fine to coarse studs, not the fine to fine thread on the  stock
motor. (will studs fit under the rocker assembly?).  Any thoughts on
torquing with a coarse thread pitch?

I'm open to solutions current,  or historic.  Nothing found in my searches.

Anyone with a box of NOS bolts? Extra studs?

Thank you,
Walt
'67 S-V
_______________________________________________
Alpines@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/alpines/jacranwell@aol.com
_______________________________________________
Alpines@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From alpines-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 08:49:59 2013
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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 07:47:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: james ellis <hunber@bellsouth.net>
To: "WSuman@aol.com" <WSuman@aol.com>, "alpines@autox.team.net"
	<alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Alpines] New Head Bolts / Studs?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: alpines-bounces@autox.team.net

Never found a replacement head bolt but two thing you want to do to help with
the blown head gaskets are.... when you have the machine work done on your
head have them machine the surface under the washer for the head bolt. this
way it is flat, they just need to touch off on it and take no more material
off than required to flatten the surface. Next head to Fastenal and buy some
replacement head bolt washers, they have two versions one is of 50 cents or
less each the other is a buck or two the cheaper on is fine it just does not
have the edge machined rounded.
 

________________________________
 From:
"WSuman@aol.com" <WSuman@aol.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday,
August 27, 2013 9:32 AM
Subject: [Alpines] New Head Bolts / Studs?
  

I'm
keen on replacing the 40+ year old bolts in my 1725, after blowing a  
new
head gasket.

I've even heard of them breaking before reaching specified 
torque.

None of my usual suppliers have replacements. (SS, CS or  VB)

ARP
offers fine to coarse studs, not the fine to fine thread on the  stock 
motor.
(will studs fit under the rocker assembly?).  Any thoughts on  
torquing with
a coarse thread pitch?

I'm open to solutions current,  or historic.  Nothing
found in my searches.

Anyone with a box of NOS bolts? Extra studs? 

Thank
you,
Walt
'67 S-V
_______________________________________________
Alpines@autox.team.net
Suggested
annual donation  $17.25
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/alpines/hunber@bellsouth.net
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From alpines-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 13:37:04 2013
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From: Brent Edinger <banana111@msn.com>
To: Alpines <alpines@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 12:32:03 -0700
	FILETIME=[1C34E3B0:01CEA35C]
Subject: Re: [Alpines] New Head Bolts
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I solved my head gasket problems on my high comp race motor by taking them up
to
7/16" and used ARP bolts.  With the higher torque value I never had anymore
trouble.

       Brent
_______________________________________________
Alpines@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From alpines-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 13:43:02 2013
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From: JACranwell@aol.com
Full-name: JACranwell
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 15:42:57 -0400 (EDT)
To: banana111@msn.com, alpines@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Alpines] New Head Bolts
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Hi Brent, 
 
Do you have a full spec for the bolts, e.g. length, as I may want to go  
this route, but do not want to remove the head before the work.
 
Jules.
_______________________________________________
Alpines@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From alpines-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 12:51:33 2013
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From: Brent Edinger <banana111@msn.com>
To: Alpines <alpines@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 11:51:26 -0700
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Subject: [Alpines] FW:  New Head Bolts
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From: banana111@msn.com
To: jacranwell@aol.com
Subject: RE: [Alpines] New Head Bolts
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 19:47:01 -0700




I couldn't find any old spare bolts around. (though I know I would never
throw anything out that could still be used some day)
The stock head bolts have a 3.25" length shank. If you go  to the back of the
ARP catalog
page 89 has 7/16-14  bolts in chromoly. ARP can provide the torque application
numbers.
You should back out a head bolt and check how much thread is engaged into the
block by
measuring how high it sits when it is all the way loose. Then you can
determine if you need a longer shank bolt.
You will have to ream the holes up in the gasket and I think I had to open up
a couple
holes in the head as well so it would align properly. It's not too tough of a
job and when it's
done there should be no more head gasket problems.

        Brent

From: JACranwell@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 15:42:57 -0400
Subject: Re: [Alpines] New Head Bolts
To: banana111@msn.com; alpines@autox.team.net






Hi Brent, 
 
Do you have a full spec for the bolts, e.g. length, as I may
want to go 
this route, but do not want to remove the head before the work.
Jules.
_______________________________________________
Alpines@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 08:24:22 -0400
From: Mototron <mototron@optonline.net>
To: Alpine List <alpines@autox.team.net>
References: <bfc6b.13c8d646.3f4e5b41@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [Alpines] FW:  New Head Bolts
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Errors-To: alpines-bounces@autox.team.net

You have to open up the holes in the head to 7/16"
the stock bolts are 3/8" as well as the gasket
use the stock torque spec on the arp studs
not the arp spec torque
the head will deform under the higher torque spec
and the gasket will blow out sooner
if your motor is stock there is no need to use the larger bolts
and its a bad idea to change the bolts and not remove the head




On 8/28/2013 2:51 PM, Brent Edinger wrote:
> From: banana111@msn.com
> To: jacranwell@aol.com
> Subject: RE: [Alpines] New Head Bolts
> Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 19:47:01 -0700
>
>
>
>
> I couldn't find any old spare bolts around. (though I know I would never
> throw anything out that could still be used some day)
> The stock head bolts have a 3.25" length shank. If you go  to the back of the
> ARP catalog
> page 89 has 7/16-14  bolts in chromoly. ARP can provide the torque application
> numbers.
> You should back out a head bolt and check how much thread is engaged into the
> block by
> measuring how high it sits when it is all the way loose. Then you can
> determine if you need a longer shank bolt.
> You will have to ream the holes up in the gasket and I think I had to open up
> a couple
> holes in the head as well so it would align properly. It's not too tough of a
> job and when it's
> done there should be no more head gasket problems.
>
>          Brent
>
> From: JACranwell@aol.com
> Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 15:42:57 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Alpines] New Head Bolts
> To: banana111@msn.com; alpines@autox.team.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Brent,
>   
> Do you have a full spec for the bolts, e.g. length, as I may
> want to go
> this route, but do not want to remove the head before the work.
> Jules.
> _______________________________________________
> Alpines@autox.team.net
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From alpines-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 30 12:41:29 2013
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 11:40:46 -0700
From: Barry Hayes <bhayes@cs.stanford.edu>
To: alpines <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Alpines] Series V Bumper YET AGAIN
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: alpines-bounces@autox.team.net

I have *really* pulled the trigger on repairing the Alpine V from the
rear-ender now almost two years ago.

And so now I do in fact need a rear bumper. "Unbent and needs chrome"
should be just fine. I'm in the greater San Jose, CA area; shipping could
well cost more than the bumper itself.

-- 

bhayes yat cs dot stanford dot edu is what you should put in your contact
files -- it'll forward to me no matter where I move
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