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Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 05:45:06 -0800
From: Rick Parent <rick.parent@att.net>
To: Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com>, "fot@autox.team.net"
 <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Head Studs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Allen,

Here is some info that applies to all Weber carbs. If you have a good fuel curve and the weather changes on you, simply go up or down on the main jet only. The air corrector jet only effects the very to end of the RPM range. The main jet effects the whole fuel curve.

Hope this helps,

Rick



On Sunday, November 30, 2014 11:07 PM, Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com> wrote:
 


Rick,

I think you hit on it. I was going to bump up the primary jets on the Weber's and/or drop the air correction jets but never got the opportunity. The cold weather just accelerated the problem. The experience of others losing motors I assume due to similar issues would support this theory. Won't be able to verify this until next season but will let you know the results.

Thanks much,

Allen


On Nov 30, 2014, at 8:40 PM, Rick Parent wrote:

It's not stretched head studs. Your engine is most likely on the edge concerning your jetting. I believe your deduction on the Fall event having better air because of the cooler weather is correct. We had a crazy year concerning weather changes. I always jet a little fat and we had trouble at 2 events this year, we didn't lose any motors but quite a few others did. I have an air density gauge and a weather station, they both do the same thing and are mandatory for keeping our engines safe.
>
>
>
>
>On Sunday, November 30, 2014 6:38 PM, Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com> wrote:
> 
>
>
>FoT,
>
>Does anyone have experience with head studs stretching? My ARP head  
>studs were installed in 2002 and run in race events for seven years. I  
>didn't race from 2009 - 2014. During that time, I did a frame-off  
>restoration on the TR6. My first event out was the Hawk at Road  
>America this year. After the first few practice runs, I blew a head  
>gasket. We replaced it and went on to place in class. We did find that  
>we were running too much timing and dialed it back.
>
>The next outing was the VSCDA fall event at Road America. It was  
>extremely cold (high of 50). We quickly blew another head gasket! This  
>gasket was an upgrade to the stock head gasket I had been running for  
>years. We replaced it at the track and the same thing happened again.  
>The car is running 12.8:1 compression, triple Weber's and full race  
>cam. Studs always torqued using ARP assembly lubricant to ARP  
>recommended torque rating using their three step approach. Torque  
>wrench has been calibrated. The failed gasket has been deteriorating  
>at the bridge between cylinders. Location varies. We checked the  
>flatness of the head and it is perfectly flat.
>
>Because it was so much colder at the VSCDA fall event, were we  
>producing more power due to temperatures which caused the multiple  
>failures unlike the Hawk where we were able to finish with much warmer  
>temperatures? Could stretched studs be the cause of this somewhat  
>erratic behavior?
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Allen
>
>Allen & Jody Washatko
>1971 TR6  - Number 6
>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
>
>
>
>

Jody & Allen Washatko
W51 N664 Highland Drive
Cedarburg, WI. 53012
USA

tel. (262) 617-6801
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  1 07:27:27 2014
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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 09:31:03 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

>From what I can tell on line it looks as though Cometic only offers copper
head gaskets for the TR6. Darn.



Marty


> From: pvucinic@netspace.net.au
> To: Fot@autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 13:09:40 +1100
> Subject: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
>
> Wondering if anyone on the list has used/purchased a Cometic Multi Layer
> Steel head gasket from Cometic?
>
> Or are there other suppliers for Steel head gaskets for the TR6?
>
> Thank you in advance
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started
With
> A Lage Fortune!"
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Peter Vucinic
>
> TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfir MkII
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> <http://www.fot-racing.com/> http://www.fot-racing.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  1 14:15:38 2014
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From: Rich <rikrock@live.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 16:19:56 -0500
To: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>, 'Steve Yott' <tr4@wi.rr.com>,
 "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>, Jim Gray
 <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
 FILETIME=[75ED5B10:01D00DAC]
Subject: Re: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Guys,

Tried using wedged shaped shims this time, let it set up for 24 hours and it
is a little better but nowhere near 1/16" gap between the seal and crank
flange.

In fact it is  less than 1 mm, measuring about .033" using a feeler gauge.

Looking at how the seal sits in the housing, I can tell that it is fully
seated.  I just don't see how to make the gap any larger aside from tinkering
with crank end float, which can only net a very small amount.

I suppose, as long as this seal stays where it is, doesn't back out, things
will work out.

What do you think?

Thanks!

Rich
________________________________
From: MadMarx
Sent: 11/30/2014 4:55 AM
To: 'Steve Yott'; 'Rich'; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: AW: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

Hi Rick,

the gap between the seal and the flange is designed to have a minimum
distance of 1mm (=0.4"). In most cases you have a little more distance.
This 1mm is the safety to deal with crank movement when depressing the
clutch.

Please make sure that the flywheel bolts don't protrude through the flange.

It is important to use a good sealer, like silicone.
I had on my race a seal slipping out and was then scrambled by the crank
flange. Since then I recommended to use silicone to hold the seal in place.
Back pressure in the block can force it out after a while if no sealer is
used.
Maybe only an issue on race cars and not so much on road cars.

Cheers
Chris


-----UrsprC<ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Steve Yott
Gesendet: Sonntag, 30. November 2014 03:45
An: 'Rich'; fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

Rich,
I have installed a number of these and feel that if you are measuring only
.020" that the seal may have crept during the install process.  This is easy
to have happen since there is a lot going on during the setting of the
crank.  First question would be, did you machine your own aluminum scroll
seal for the Marx seal or did you purchase the kit?  I know that the parts
provided in the kit are machined properly and that machining your own can
give inconsistent results.  I machine my own since I built a fixture to hold
the seal halves on the mill before the kit was available.

What I do after getting the crankshaft in place and the bearing caps
installed is take two medium screw drivers and work the seal gently into the
scroll shell.  When I feel it is fully seated I leave it alone until the
sealer/glue sets a little so the seal does not creep out.  I normally end up
with about a 1/16" between the crank flange and the face of the seal.

Now the most important part is to make sure that your flywheel bolts will
NOT EXTEND PAST THE INNER FACE OF THE CRANK FLANGE!!!!!  Too many people
have shredded the seals by using too long of a bolt.  Measure this twice to
ensure the bolts end up at the proper length.

It is a great seal setup and works far better than  the standard scroll or
Rover lip seal type of process.  The best of both worlds!

Steve Yott




-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2014 5:16 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

For those who have done this before, what clearance do you end up with
between the seal and the crank flange?

I'm getting around .020" which seems too little to me?

Thanks,

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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To: "'marty'" <trmarty@hotmail.com>, "'FOT'" <fot@autox.team.net>
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Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 08:30:17 +1100
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Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Marty,
I've asked them if the will cut an MLS version. The already have the head
gasket pattern. SO I don't see an issue? But you never know.

Cheers..


-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty
Sent: Tuesday, 2 December 2014 1:31 AM
To: FOT
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket

>From what I can tell on line it looks as though Cometic only offers copper
head gaskets for the TR6. Darn.



Marty


> From: pvucinic@netspace.net.au
> To: Fot@autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 13:09:40 +1100
> Subject: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
>
> Wondering if anyone on the list has used/purchased a Cometic Multi 
> Layer Steel head gasket from Cometic?
>
> Or are there other suppliers for Steel head gaskets for the TR6?
>
> Thank you in advance
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You 
> Started
With
> A Lage Fortune!"
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Peter Vucinic
>
> TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfir MkII
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> <http://www.fot-racing.com/> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>
>
> Donate: <http://www.team.net/donate.html> 
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: "'Rich'" <rikrock@live.com>, "'Steve Yott'" <tr4@wi.rr.com>,
 <fot@autox.team.net>, "'Jim Gray'" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
References: <SNT407-EAS153EF3244D927419BFFE27FC67D0@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 22:51:10 +0100
Thread-Index: AdANrHanS/wnj34fSoSGzVgK9keKvAAA7vcg
Content-Language: de
Subject: Re: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Rich,



as long there is a gap all is fine. Seems that the cranks do have some
variations of flange thickness.



The only way to enlarge the gap is to put the seal flat on sanding paper and
grind off the rubber to the steel arches.

The side to grind is the side in the housing.

But as long there is a gap that should not be needed.

There are two limits to respect:

1.    That the lip is not touching the scroll on the crank

2.    The rear side of the seal doesnbt interfere with the cranks flange



All within this range is okay.



Cheers

Chris





Von: Rich [mailto:rikrock@live.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 1. Dezember 2014 22:20
An: MadMarx; 'Steve Yott'; fot@autox.team.net; Jim Gray
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s



Guys,

Tried using wedged shaped shims this time, let it set up for 24 hours and it
is a little better but nowhere near 1/16" gap between the seal and crank
flange.

In fact it is  less than 1 mm, measuring about .033" using a feeler gauge.

Looking at how the seal sits in the housing, I can tell that it is fully
seated.  I just don't see how to make the gap any larger aside from tinkering
with crank end float, which can only net a very small amount.

I suppose, as long as this seal stays where it is, doesn't back out, things
will work out.

What do you think?

Thanks!

Rich

  _____

From: MadMarx
Sent: 11/30/2014 4:55 AM
To: 'Steve Yott'; 'Rich'; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: AW: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

Hi Rick,

the gap between the seal and the flange is designed to have a minimum
distance of 1mm (=0.4"). In most cases you have a little more distance.
This 1mm is the safety to deal with crank movement when depressing the
clutch.

Please make sure that the flywheel bolts don't protrude through the flange.

It is important to use a good sealer, like silicone.
I had on my race a seal slipping out and was then scrambled by the crank
flange. Since then I recommended to use silicone to hold the seal in place.
Back pressure in the block can force it out after a while if no sealer is
used.
Maybe only an issue on race cars and not so much on road cars.

Cheers
Chris


-----UrsprC<ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Steve Yott
Gesendet: Sonntag, 30. November 2014 03:45
An: 'Rich'; fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

Rich,
I have installed a number of these and feel that if you are measuring only
.020" that the seal may have crept during the install process.  This is easy
to have happen since there is a lot going on during the setting of the
crank.  First question would be, did you machine your own aluminum scroll
seal for the Marx seal or did you purchase the kit?  I know that the parts
provided in the kit are machined properly and that machining your own can
give inconsistent results.  I machine my own since I built a fixture to hold
the seal halves on the mill before the kit was available.

What I do after getting the crankshaft in place and the bearing caps
installed is take two medium screw drivers and work the seal gently into the
scroll shell.  When I feel it is fully seated I leave it alone until the
sealer/glue sets a little so the seal does not creep out.  I normally end up
with about a 1/16" between the crank flange and the face of the seal.

Now the most important part is to make sure that your flywheel bolts will
NOT EXTEND PAST THE INNER FACE OF THE CRANK FLANGE!!!!!  Too many people
have shredded the seals by using too long of a bolt.  Measure this twice to
ensure the bolts end up at the proper length.

It is a great seal setup and works far better than  the standard scroll or
Rover lip seal type of process.  The best of both worlds!

Steve Yott




-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2014 5:16 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

For those who have done this before, what clearance do you end up with
between the seal and the crank flange?

I'm getting around .020" which seems too little to me?

Thanks,

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing@googlemail.com
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  1 15:30:12 2014
Return-Path: <fot-bounces@autox.team.net>
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From: Rich <rikrock@live.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 17:34:34 -0500
To: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>, "fot@autox.team.net"
 <fot@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[E1E562E0:01D00DB6]
Subject: Re: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris,

Okay, thanks!

Rich
________________________________
From: MadMarx
Sent: 12/1/2014 4:51 PM
To: 'Rich'; 'Steve Yott'; fot@autox.team.net; 'Jim Gray'
Subject: AW: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

Hi Rich,



as long there is a gap all is fine. Seems that the cranks do have some
variations of flange thickness.



The only way to enlarge the gap is to put the seal flat on sanding paper and
grind off the rubber to the steel arches.

The side to grind is the side in the housing.

But as long there is a gap that should not be needed.

There are two limits to respect:

1.    That the lip is not touching the scroll on the crank

2.    The rear side of the seal doesnbt interfere with the cranks flange



All within this range is okay.



Cheers

Chris





Von: Rich [mailto:rikrock@live.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 1. Dezember 2014 22:20
An: MadMarx; 'Steve Yott'; fot@autox.team.net; Jim Gray
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s



Guys,

Tried using wedged shaped shims this time, let it set up for 24 hours and it
is a little better but nowhere near 1/16" gap between the seal and crank
flange.

In fact it is  less than 1 mm, measuring about .033" using a feeler gauge.

Looking at how the seal sits in the housing, I can tell that it is fully
seated.  I just don't see how to make the gap any larger aside from tinkering
with crank end float, which can only net a very small amount.

I suppose, as long as this seal stays where it is, doesn't back out, things
will work out.

What do you think?

Thanks!

Rich

  _____

From: MadMarx
Sent: 11/30/2014 4:55 AM
To: 'Steve Yott'; 'Rich'; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: AW: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

Hi Rick,

the gap between the seal and the flange is designed to have a minimum
distance of 1mm (=0.4"). In most cases you have a little more distance.
This 1mm is the safety to deal with crank movement when depressing the
clutch.

Please make sure that the flywheel bolts don't protrude through the flange.

It is important to use a good sealer, like silicone.
I had on my race a seal slipping out and was then scrambled by the crank
flange. Since then I recommended to use silicone to hold the seal in place.
Back pressure in the block can force it out after a while if no sealer is
used.
Maybe only an issue on race cars and not so much on road cars.

Cheers
Chris


-----UrsprC<ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Steve Yott
Gesendet: Sonntag, 30. November 2014 03:45
An: 'Rich'; fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

Rich,
I have installed a number of these and feel that if you are measuring only
.020" that the seal may have crept during the install process.  This is easy
to have happen since there is a lot going on during the setting of the
crank.  First question would be, did you machine your own aluminum scroll
seal for the Marx seal or did you purchase the kit?  I know that the parts
provided in the kit are machined properly and that machining your own can
give inconsistent results.  I machine my own since I built a fixture to hold
the seal halves on the mill before the kit was available.

What I do after getting the crankshaft in place and the bearing caps
installed is take two medium screw drivers and work the seal gently into the
scroll shell.  When I feel it is fully seated I leave it alone until the
sealer/glue sets a little so the seal does not creep out.  I normally end up
with about a 1/16" between the crank flange and the face of the seal.

Now the most important part is to make sure that your flywheel bolts will
NOT EXTEND PAST THE INNER FACE OF THE CRANK FLANGE!!!!!  Too many people
have shredded the seals by using too long of a bolt.  Measure this twice to
ensure the bolts end up at the proper length.

It is a great seal setup and works far better than  the standard scroll or
Rover lip seal type of process.  The best of both worlds!

Steve Yott




-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2014 5:16 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

For those who have done this before, what clearance do you end up with
between the seal and the crank flange?

I'm getting around .020" which seems too little to me?

Thanks,

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing@googlemail.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  1 15:35:05 2014
Return-Path: <fot-bounces@autox.team.net>
Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net
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From: "Steve Yott" <tr4@wi.rr.com>
To: "'Rich'" <rikrock@live.com>, "'MadMarx'" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>,
 <fot@autox.team.net>, "'Jim Gray'" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
References: <SNT407-EAS153EF3244D927419BFFE27FC67D0@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 16:35:12 -0600
Thread-Index: AdANrHYPYvENt7QFTt2KWIExlsYw0wACmh7w
Content-Language: en-us
 a=fnFn1fNgoXPPV0bsU6PlVg==:117 a=fnFn1fNgoXPPV0bsU6PlVg==:17
 a=ayC55rCoAAAA:8 a=DAwyPP_o2Byb1YXLmDAA:9 a=Zr7miEi8wWIA:10
 a=cKsnjEOsciEA:10 a=2oeSqxxVzlsA:10 a=Zk3OmFfbAAAA:8 a=zOoktvdPAAAA:8
 a=JcvzPq48AAAA:8 a=mK_AVkanAAAA:8 a=JnEHowJfRozc1GAz85gA:9
 a=NJDpxuFMsE8t5j54:21 a=XJMgmwnU19xwSQ5o:21 a=QEXdDO2ut3YA:10
 a=m3MdUl94G8cA:10 a=yMhMjlubAAAA:8 a=SSmOFEACAAAA:8
 a=8diOCWtaAUoopX3MsyMA:9 a=6rpnWSz77EhKvnui:21 a=rKc7WTDcZCt3PY3h:21
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 a=hTZeC7Yk6K0A:10 a=frz4AuCg-hUA:10
Subject: Re: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Rich,

Should work just fine!  As Christian said any visible gap is good.  As long as
itbs glued in it wonbt moveb&



Steve Yott



From: Rich [mailto:rikrock@live.com]
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2014 3:20 PM
To: MadMarx; 'Steve Yott'; fot@autox.team.net; Jim Gray
Subject: RE: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s



Guys,

Tried using wedged shaped shims this time, let it set up for 24 hours and it
is a little better but nowhere near 1/16" gap between the seal and crank
flange.

In fact it is  less than 1 mm, measuring about .033" using a feeler gauge.

Looking at how the seal sits in the housing, I can tell that it is fully
seated.  I just don't see how to make the gap any larger aside from tinkering
with crank end float, which can only net a very small amount.

I suppose, as long as this seal stays where it is, doesn't back out, things
will work out.

What do you think?

Thanks!

Rich

  _____

From: MadMarx
Sent: 11/30/2014 4:55 AM
To: 'Steve Yott'; 'Rich'; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: AW: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

Hi Rick,

the gap between the seal and the flange is designed to have a minimum
distance of 1mm (=0.4"). In most cases you have a little more distance.
This 1mm is the safety to deal with crank movement when depressing the
clutch.

Please make sure that the flywheel bolts don't protrude through the flange.

It is important to use a good sealer, like silicone.
I had on my race a seal slipping out and was then scrambled by the crank
flange. Since then I recommended to use silicone to hold the seal in place.
Back pressure in the block can force it out after a while if no sealer is
used.
Maybe only an issue on race cars and not so much on road cars.

Cheers
Chris


-----UrsprC<ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Steve Yott
Gesendet: Sonntag, 30. November 2014 03:45
An: 'Rich'; fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

Rich,
I have installed a number of these and feel that if you are measuring only
.020" that the seal may have crept during the install process.  This is easy
to have happen since there is a lot going on during the setting of the
crank.  First question would be, did you machine your own aluminum scroll
seal for the Marx seal or did you purchase the kit?  I know that the parts
provided in the kit are machined properly and that machining your own can
give inconsistent results.  I machine my own since I built a fixture to hold
the seal halves on the mill before the kit was available.

What I do after getting the crankshaft in place and the bearing caps
installed is take two medium screw drivers and work the seal gently into the
scroll shell.  When I feel it is fully seated I leave it alone until the
sealer/glue sets a little so the seal does not creep out.  I normally end up
with about a 1/16" between the crank flange and the face of the seal.

Now the most important part is to make sure that your flywheel bolts will
NOT EXTEND PAST THE INNER FACE OF THE CRANK FLANGE!!!!!  Too many people
have shredded the seals by using too long of a bolt.  Measure this twice to
ensure the bolts end up at the proper length.

It is a great seal setup and works far better than  the standard scroll or
Rover lip seal type of process.  The best of both worlds!

Steve Yott




-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2014 5:16 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Viton Rear Seal ?s

For those who have done this before, what clearance do you end up with
between the seal and the crank flange?

I'm getting around .020" which seems too little to me?

Thanks,

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing@googlemail.com
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  1 19:46:45 2014
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From: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>
To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
Thread-Index: AdANc4BhDhU37GzZT9KjLtRC88KdzAAOllcAAAHDiOMAE1J0AP//sPCI
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 02:49:59 +0000
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAFeuLB8Eq1lDlNiITEcUFLoBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
 <BLU168-W997F54F12283CE4C5EE4C4BA7D0@phx.gbl>
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Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
  a=VR8QHrWKYhK80xkEBGCjUg==]
  a=kj9]
  a=YlVTAMxI]
  a=tgRDpXx1AAAA:8]
  a=nGJh]
  a=jeSVDoq5N-1tCru]
Cc: John Baucom <baucom86@gmail.com>
Subject: [Fot] Fwd:  TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Cometic head gaskets.....anyone interested?

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

Date: December 1, 2014 at 9:32:58 PM EST
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket

It requires a special die to make a MLS version which they will do but they
want a 2500-3000 dollar minimum order the first time. There is more to it than
just having the pattern, the MLS gasket has to have raised rings on all the
sealing areas of the outer two layers which is where the stamping die comes in
which has to be CNC machined. That is why they want the minimum order the
first time to cover there cost for the die then after that they will cost the
same as any other gasket. They don't charge for the die just require selling
enough gaskets up front to cover the initial cost. I think it works out to
about $100 a gasket. So if we order 28-30 it's covered.

On Monday, December 1, 2014, John Hasty
FYI

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

From: Peter Vucinic
cript:;>>>
Date: December 1, 2014 at 4:30:17 PM EST
To: 'marty'
'FOT'
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket

Marty,
I've asked them if the will cut an MLS version. The already have the head
gasket pattern. SO I don't see an issue? But you never know.

Cheers..


-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net<javascript:;>] On Behalf Of
marty
Sent: Tuesday, 2 December 2014 1:31 AM
To: FOT
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket

>From what I can tell on line it looks as though Cometic only offers copper
head gaskets for the TR6. Darn.



Marty


From:
ript:;>>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 13:09:40 +1100
Subject: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket

Wondering if anyone on the list has used/purchased a Cometic Multi
Layer Steel head gasket from Cometic?

Or are there other suppliers for Steel head gaskets for the TR6?

Thank you in advance







"You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You
Started
With
A Lage Fortune!"

Kind Regards

Peter Vucinic

TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfir MkII

_______________________________________________




<http://www.fot-racing.com/> http://www.fot-racing.com




Archive: <http://www.team.net/archive> http://www.team.net/archive

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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  1 19:55:21 2014
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From: "Steve Yott" <tr4@wi.rr.com>
To: "'John Hasty'" <jhasty@mhc-law.com>, "'FOT'" <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAFeuLB8Eq1lDlNiITEcUFLoBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
 <BLU168-W997F54F12283CE4C5EE4C4BA7D0@phx.gbl>
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 <C0896300-C2C1-489A-9D8D-E39BE40AAB87@mhc-law.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 20:58:55 -0600
Thread-Index: AQIWva5fn9i9+z5v/SXQ5tQgJcvqWAFA4yYgAkeU/2YCHkeQxADU59pfAUSOGrWbsDqFwA==
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: 'John Baucom' <baucom86@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Fwd:  TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Do we know what the thickness of these would be?  This obviously has much to
do with the static CR.

Steve Yott

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Hasty
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2014 8:50 PM
To: FOT
Cc: John Baucom
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket

Cometic head gaskets.....anyone interested?

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

Date: December 1, 2014 at 9:32:58 PM EST
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket

It requires a special die to make a MLS version which they will do but they
want a 2500-3000 dollar minimum order the first time. There is more to it
than just having the pattern, the MLS gasket has to have raised rings on all
the sealing areas of the outer two layers which is where the stamping die
comes in which has to be CNC machined. That is why they want the minimum
order the first time to cover there cost for the die then after that they
will cost the same as any other gasket. They don't charge for the die just
require selling enough gaskets up front to cover the initial cost. I think
it works out to about $100 a gasket. So if we order 28-30 it's covered.

On Monday, December 1, 2014, John Hasty
FYI

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

From: Peter Vucinic
s
cript:;>>>
Date: December 1, 2014 at 4:30:17 PM EST
To: 'marty'
>,
'FOT'
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket

Marty,
I've asked them if the will cut an MLS version. The already have the head
gasket pattern. SO I don't see an issue? But you never know.

Cheers..


-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net<javascript:;>] On Behalf Of
marty
Sent: Tuesday, 2 December 2014 1:31 AM
To: FOT
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket

>From what I can tell on line it looks as though Cometic only offers copper
head gaskets for the TR6. Darn.



Marty


From:
c
ript:;>>
To:
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 13:09:40 +1100
Subject: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket

Wondering if anyone on the list has used/purchased a Cometic Multi Layer
Steel head gasket from Cometic?

Or are there other suppliers for Steel head gaskets for the TR6?

Thank you in advance







"You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With
A Lage Fortune!"

Kind Regards

Peter Vucinic

TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfir MkII

_______________________________________________




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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  1 20:07:58 2014
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From: Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com>
To: Friends of Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 21:08:10 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

FoT,

I was asked if I re-torque the cylinder head on my TR6 after an  
initial break-in period. Never have. ARP doesn't recommend it.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Allen

Allen & Jody Washatko
1971 TR6  - Number 6
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  1 20:16:25 2014
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From: Brian Garcia <cudapilot@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 21:20:02 -0600
To: Steve Yott <tr4@wi.rr.com>
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Cc: John Baucom <baucom86@gmail.com>, FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Fwd:  TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

That's the nice thing about MLS gaskets - they can make the thickness you
want.

> On Dec 1, 2014, at 8:58 PM, "Steve Yott" <tr4@wi.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Do we know what the thickness of these would be?  This obviously has much
to
> do with the static CR.
>
> Steve Yott
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Hasty
> Sent: Monday, December 01, 2014 8:50 PM
> To: FOT
> Cc: John Baucom
> Subject: [Fot] Fwd: TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
>
> Cometic head gaskets.....anyone interested?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> Date: December 1, 2014 at 9:32:58 PM EST
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
>
> It requires a special die to make a MLS version which they will do but they
> want a 2500-3000 dollar minimum order the first time. There is more to it
> than just having the pattern, the MLS gasket has to have raised rings on
all
> the sealing areas of the outer two layers which is where the stamping die
> comes in which has to be CNC machined. That is why they want the minimum
> order the first time to cover there cost for the die then after that they
> will cost the same as any other gasket. They don't charge for the die just
> require selling enough gaskets up front to cover the initial cost. I think
> it works out to about $100 a gasket. So if we order 28-30 it's covered.
>
> On Monday, December 1, 2014, John Hasty
> FYI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> From: Peter Vucinic
>
> s
> cript:;>>>
> Date: December 1, 2014 at 4:30:17 PM EST
> To: 'marty'
>
>> ,
> 'FOT'
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
>
> Marty,
> I've asked them if the will cut an MLS version. The already have the head
> gasket pattern. SO I don't see an issue? But you never know.
>
> Cheers..
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net<javascript:;>] On Behalf Of
> marty
> Sent: Tuesday, 2 December 2014 1:31 AM
> To: FOT
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
>
> From what I can tell on line it looks as though Cometic only offers copper
> head gaskets for the TR6. Darn.
>
>
>
> Marty
>
>
> From:
>
> c
> ript:;>>
> To:
> Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 13:09:40 +1100
> Subject: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
>
> Wondering if anyone on the list has used/purchased a Cometic Multi Layer
> Steel head gasket from Cometic?
>
> Or are there other suppliers for Steel head gaskets for the TR6?
>
> Thank you in advance
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started
With
> A Lage Fortune!"
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Peter Vucinic
>
> TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfir MkII
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> <http://www.fot-racing.com/> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>
>
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Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2014 23:07:30 -0600
From: Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlton54@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.10; rv:24.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: fot@autox.team.net
References: <EFF1CFF6-8529-4E06-8E2A-03E690F8262C@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Retorquing may be more a matter of the type of gasket than the type of 
head bolt you've used.  Some newer gasket designs, I am told, do not 
need re-torquing.

Duncan
(Texas)

On 12/1/14, 9:08 PM, Allen Washatko wrote:
> FoT,
>
> I was asked if I re-torque the cylinder head on my TR6 after an
> initial break-in period. Never have. ARP doesn't recommend it.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen
>
> Allen & Jody Washatko
> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 08:02:18 +0100
From: Christian Marx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: Brian Garcia <cudapilot@comcast.net>
Cc: John Baucom <baucom86@gmail.com>, fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Fwd: TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi.

I'm running steel head gaskets and they have a reasonable price of about
80$ each. If there is interest I can send a bunch over and one of you
distribute them.

Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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References: <EFF1CFF6-8529-4E06-8E2A-03E690F8262C@wi.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 05:48:33 -0800
From: Rick Parent <rick.parent@att.net>
To: Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com>, "fot@autox.team.net"
 <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

If It is a stock or stock type retorque, if it is a Cometic Fiber gasket retorque is not necessary.

Rick



On Monday, December 1, 2014 10:11 PM, Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com> wrote:
 


FoT,

I was asked if I re-torque the cylinder head on my TR6 after an  
initial break-in period. Never have. ARP doesn't recommend it.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Allen

Allen & Jody Washatko
1971 TR6  - Number 6
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  2 07:24:49 2014
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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com>, FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 09:24:38 -0500
References: <EFF1CFF6-8529-4E06-8E2A-03E690F8262C@wi.rr.com>
 FILETIME=[B4F30870:01D00E3B]
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Right, wrong or indifferent, I always re-torque mine. ARP studs, Payen
gaskets. Always had good luck.



Marty




> From: awashatko@wi.rr.com
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 21:08:10 -0600
> Subject: [Fot] Cylinder Head
>
> FoT,
>
> I was asked if I re-torque the cylinder head on my TR6 after an
> initial break-in period. Never have. ARP doesn't recommend it.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen
>
> Allen & Jody Washatko
> 1971 TR6 - Number 6
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  2 07:25:01 2014
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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>, FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 09:25:56 -0500
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAFeuLB8Eq1lDlNiITEcUFLoBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>,
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 FILETIME=[E2DCE0D0:01D00E3B]
Subject: Re: [Fot] Fwd:  TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

+1



Marty


> From: jhasty@mhc-law.com
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 02:49:59 +0000
> CC: baucom86@gmail.com
> Subject: [Fot] Fwd: TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
>
> Cometic head gaskets.....anyone interested?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> Date: December 1, 2014 at 9:32:58 PM EST
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
>
> It requires a special die to make a MLS version which they will do but they
> want a 2500-3000 dollar minimum order the first time. There is more to it
than
> just having the pattern, the MLS gasket has to have raised rings on all the
> sealing areas of the outer two layers which is where the stamping die comes
in
> which has to be CNC machined. That is why they want the minimum order the
> first time to cover there cost for the die then after that they will cost
the
> same as any other gasket. They don't charge for the die just require
selling
> enough gaskets up front to cover the initial cost. I think it works out to
> about $100 a gasket. So if we order 28-30 it's covered.
>
> On Monday, December 1, 2014, John Hasty
> FYI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> From: Peter Vucinic
>
> cript:;>>>
> Date: December 1, 2014 at 4:30:17 PM EST
> To: 'marty'
>
,
> 'FOT'
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
>
> Marty,
> I've asked them if the will cut an MLS version. The already have the head
> gasket pattern. SO I don't see an issue? But you never know.
>
> Cheers..
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net<javascript:;>] On Behalf Of
> marty
> Sent: Tuesday, 2 December 2014 1:31 AM
> To: FOT
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
>
> From what I can tell on line it looks as though Cometic only offers copper
> head gaskets for the TR6. Darn.
>
>
>
> Marty
>
>
> From:
>
> ript:;>>
> To:
> Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 13:09:40 +1100
> Subject: [Fot] TR6 - Cometic MLS Head Gasket
>
> Wondering if anyone on the list has used/purchased a Cometic Multi
> Layer Steel head gasket from Cometic?
>
> Or are there other suppliers for Steel head gaskets for the TR6?
>
> Thank you in advance
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You
> Started
> With
> A Lage Fortune!"
>
> Kind Regards
>
> Peter Vucinic
>
> TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfir MkII
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> <http://www.fot-racing.com/> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>
>
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References: <EFF1CFF6-8529-4E06-8E2A-03E690F8262C@wi.rr.com>
From: Mike Munson <fasttrs@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 10:11:40 -0600
To: Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com>
Cc: Friends of Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I do, and will get a little movement out of 3 to 5 each time.

Mike Munson
#28 EP TR6


> On Dec 1, 2014, at 9:08 PM, Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com> wrote:
>
> FoT,
>
> I was asked if I re-torque the cylinder head on my TR6 after an
> initial break-in period. Never have. ARP doesn't recommend it.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen
>
> Allen & Jody Washatko
> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  2 10:41:31 2014
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Sensitivity: Normal
To: "Mike Munson" <fasttrs@yahoo.com>, "Allen Washatko" <awashatko@wi.rr.com>
From: gasket.works@gte.net
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 17:44:48 +0000
Cc: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Re-torquing would be needed if the gasket you are using has "creep".  I.E. Might be "Spongy" due to gasses within the fibers.  So, as motor heats up the internal pockets of gas will expand and might escape. This De-gassing  effect will loose a small amount of its original volume.  So, when cool the gasket would have  shrunk somewhat. Hence, the axial clamping load has changed and original "torque" is effected.  

 A solid gasket without these pockets would not suffer this way. 


 
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Munson <fasttrs@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2014 10:11:40 
To: Allen Washatko<awashatko@wi.rr.com>
Cc: Friends of Triumph<fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder Head

I do, and will get a little movement out of 3 to 5 each time.

Mike Munson
#28 EP TR6


> On Dec 1, 2014, at 9:08 PM, Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com> wrote:
>
> FoT,
>
> I was asked if I re-torque the cylinder head on my TR6 after an
> initial break-in period. Never have. ARP doesn't recommend it.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen
>
> Allen & Jody Washatko
> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: <gasket.works@gte.net>, "'Mike Munson'" <fasttrs@yahoo.com>, "'Allen
 Washatko'" <awashatko@wi.rr.com>
References: <EFF1CFF6-8529-4E06-8E2A-03E690F8262C@wi.rr.com>
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Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 11:19:58 -0700
Thread-Index: AdAOV7oL7vbnxL+1SCuVnhSZN+8PRAABHFWQ
Cc: 'FOT' <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

That is exactly my own thought.  It all depends on the gasket.  My first
hint of this was when I opened a NOS head gasket for a Spitfire engine and a
little slip of paper fell out.  It stated that after initial installation
and first running up to operating temperature, the head needs to be
re-torqued while still hot.  I have followed this ever since and have never
had a head gasket failure.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
gasket.works@gte.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2014 10:45 AM
To: Mike Munson; Allen Washatko
Cc: FOT
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder Head

Re-torquing would be needed if the gasket you are using has "creep".  I.E.
Might be "Spongy" due to gasses within the fibers.  So, as motor heats up
the internal pockets of gas will expand and might escape. This De-gassing
effect will loose a small amount of its original volume.  So, when cool the
gasket would have  shrunk somewhat. Hence, the axial clamping load has
changed and original "torque" is effected.  

 A solid gasket without these pockets would not suffer this way. 


 
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Munson <fasttrs@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2014 10:11:40 
To: Allen Washatko<awashatko@wi.rr.com>
Cc: Friends of Triumph<fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder Head

I do, and will get a little movement out of 3 to 5 each time.

Mike Munson
#28 EP TR6


> On Dec 1, 2014, at 9:08 PM, Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com> wrote:
>
> FoT,
>
> I was asked if I re-torque the cylinder head on my TR6 after an
> initial break-in period. Never have. ARP doesn't recommend it.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen
>
> Allen & Jody Washatko
> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  2 12:32:42 2014
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Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 20:35:59 +0100
From: Christian Marx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I retorque the cast iron head hot and i normally can do a 1/4 turn.

Cheers
Chris
Am 02.12.2014 18:45 schrieb <gasket.works@gte.net>:

> Re-torquing would be needed if the gasket you are using has "creep".  I.E.
> Might be "Spongy" due to gasses within the fibers.  So, as motor heats up
> the internal pockets of gas will expand and might escape. This De-gassing
> effect will loose a small amount of its original volume.  So, when cool the
> gasket would have  shrunk somewhat. Hence, the axial clamping load has
> changed and original "torque" is effected.
>
>  A solid gasket without these pockets would not suffer this way.
>
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Munson <fasttrs@yahoo.com>
> Sender: "Fot" <fot-bounces@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2014 10:11:40
> To: Allen Washatko<awashatko@wi.rr.com>
> Cc: Friends of Triumph<fot@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder Head
>
> I do, and will get a little movement out of 3 to 5 each time.
>
> Mike Munson
> #28 EP TR6
>
>
> > On Dec 1, 2014, at 9:08 PM, Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> > FoT,
> >
> > I was asked if I re-torque the cylinder head on my TR6 after an
> > initial break-in period. Never have. ARP doesn't recommend it.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Allen
> >
> > Allen & Jody Washatko
> > 1971 TR6  - Number 6
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot@autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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>
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Subject: Re: [Fot] Cylinder Head
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Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

FWIW I always retorque.
Even the steel shim gasket takes up after a couple
heat cycles.
Yes I know some gaskets advertise it not being required.
Glen
-----Original Message-----
From: Allen Washatko <awashatko@wi.rr.com>
To:
Friends of Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Dec 2, 2014 2:41 pm
Subject: [Fot] Cylinder Head


FoT,

I was asked if I re-torque the cylinder
head on my TR6 after an  
initial break-in period. Never have. ARP doesn't
recommend it.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Allen

Allen & Jody Washatko
1971 TR6  -
Number 6
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  3 19:17:55 2014
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From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2014 21:14:02 -0500
To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Sean Alexander in Classic Motorsports
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Too cool!  There's a great shot of Sean cooking around a corner at Elkhart
Lake for the ELVF race on September.

Jim
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Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2014 12:21:49 +0000 (UTC)
From: Ken Suhre <kenandtweety@yahoo.com>
To: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>, FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <5045B253-DE2B-41B5-9CB4-EA332C298E02@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Sean Alexander in Classic Motorsports
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I want to add,B  the always improving,B Ryan Murphy is having funB right on
his tail. I am sure both dads, Joe and Tim,B had a bunch to do with the
performance of the TR 4s.Ken SuhreB 

     On Wednesday, December 3, 2014 10:51 PM, J.C. Hassall
<jhassall@gmail.com> wrote:


 Too cool!B  There's a great shot of Sean cooking around a corner at Elkhart
Lake for the ELVF race on September.

Jim
_______________________________________________
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 {sentby:smtp auth 208.17.77.136 authed with kknight@klaenv.com}
Subject: [Fot] TR Aluminum Pedestal and Center Main Upgrade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Racer Upgrades Available for TR 3 & 4 Motors.  In time for the new racing
season!

 

In January of 2015 I will have available for shipping a production run of
CNC, made in America, aluminum distributor pedestals for the 4 cylinder TR 3
& 4 motors.  These pedestals will save you 2.5 pounds in weight over the
cast iron stock pedestal.  The cost will be $110.00 + flat rates shipping of
$12.95 (US only). 

 

I also have a small production run of a center main cap upgrade specifically
made for TR motors.  These are made of 4140 Steel and are heat treated, they
come with all the machining required for installation plus steel pins to
locate them on you center main cap.  The cost is $130.00 + shipping for cap,
ARP studs and machining (you will need to send me you main cap(s)).  If your
order the strap and  need studs for all three main caps that cost is $190.00
+ shipping and I will clean up the faces on all you main caps where the
studs seat and the clearance the aluminum bridge at the front of the block
for new studs.   I have four of these remaining ready to be installed.
Note:  You will have to align hone your mains after this installation.

 

See the link below for pictures and send me an email if you are interested.
I will send more details to folks wanting parts.  Payment can be made by
check or PayPal when the time comes.

 

Also by the first of the year I hope to have my website up so stay tuned for
"Three Dog Racing: Vintage Racing Parts and Services"

 

Cheers to All

 

Ken Knight

 

 

http://www.klaenv.com/knight/triumph/Distributor-Pedestal/

 

 

PS:  If you can, please rescue a pet for the holidays.  The return on
investment is priceless.   Tin-Tin, Mr. Big and Gus are proof positive.
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec  4 11:56:46 2014
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References: <5045B253-DE2B-41B5-9CB4-EA332C298E02@gmail.com>
From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2014 12:59:34 -0600
To: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>
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Cc: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Sean Alexander in Classic Motorsports
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That was a very good weekend.

Ryan Murphy, Tony Drews, and Sean were nose to tail all weekend. And the
wrenches stayed in the tool boxes for all three.  2:55.....2:55.....2:56,
respectively, for fastest lap time for the weekend.

The Triumph Worlds aligned very nicely.

May it be this good at Summit Point for everyone.

Joe Alexander
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA 50648
The-vintage-racer.com
Gasketinnovations.com
Cell:  319.464.4711

> On Dec 3, 2014, at 8:14 PM, J.C. Hassall <jhassall@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Too cool!  There's a great shot of Sean cooking around a corner at Elkhart
> Lake for the ELVF race on September.
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  6 10:51:28 2014
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Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2014 12:35:19 -0500
From: John Styduhar <johnstydo@gmail.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Transmission Conversion Bellhousing Needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

If anyone has an Eaglegate LLC bellhousing (or the complete transmission
conversion kit) for a TR3 using the toyota 5-speed gearbox, please contact
me off-line. Happy Holidays
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  6 12:40:20 2014
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To: fot@autox.team.net
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
 {sentby:smtp auth 173.31.234.34 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: [Fot] Front Caliper question
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_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  6 13:51:30 2014
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Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2014 14:24:42 -0600
To: fot@autox.team.net
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <20141206194020.7D9252580B0E@autox.team.net>
 {sentby:smtp auth 173.31.234.34 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question
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Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Arrgh.  Copy / pasted through notepad this time.

I received this question and have no clue what the answer is (and of 
course don't have any GT6 front caliper mounts).  Anyone on this list 
know the answer?  See below.

Thanks, Tony Drews


Dear Sir,

I have a Lotus Europa that I race in Vintage and am upgrading the front brakes.

A fellow competitor has an Europa with Wilwood calipers and GT6 
discs. The Wilwood caliper has a 3'5" spacing between the mounting 
holes. These calipers fit directly onto the competitors caliper 
mount. He believes that his caliper mounts are from a GT6 with a 3'5" 
spacing between the bolts.

My car has Spitfire caliper mounts with a 3.25" spacing between the bolts.

Do you know if the GT6 caliper mounts have the 3.5" spacing and will 
they fit onto the Spitfire vertical link.

If the GT6 mounts will work, do you have a pair available.

Please forward price and availability.

Thanks for your help


Peter Taft
pftaft@earthlink.net


At 01:12 PM 12/6/2014, Tony Drews wrote:

>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  6 14:23:26 2014
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To: fot@autox.team.net
References: <20141206194020.7D9252580B0E@autox.team.net>
 <20141206205127.26F3A2584492@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

T
>
> A fellow competitor has an Europa with Wilwood calipers and GT6 discs. The Wilwood caliper has a 3'5" spacing between the mounting holes. These calipers fit directly onto the competitors caliper mount. He believes that his caliper mounts are from a GT6 with a 3'5" spacing between the bolts.


3 feet and 5 inches - that's a BIG caliper. As I recall, the GT6/TR6 use the 3.5 inch spacing.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  6 14:23:38 2014
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From: Diesel Performance Parts - Info <info@dieselperformanceparts.com>
To: 'Tony Drews' <tony@tonydrews.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2014 15:03:01 -0600
Thread-Topic: [Fot] Front Caliper question
Thread-Index: AdARlvJpxZZf5a6gTGafGKyo+OqfmgAAJQLw
References: <20141206194020.7D9252580B0E@autox.team.net>
 <20141206205129.63590258449F@autox.team.net>
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
acceptlanguage: en-US
  a=EpCmqmUwonNx2x65zUBjwg==]
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Cc: "'fot@autox.team.net'" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

The GT6 caliper mount will not fit a Spitfire vertical link if my memory
serves me correctly anyway. When you change from Spit brakes to GT6 brakes you
have to have the whole wheel end to do it. Caliper, rotor, and stub axle and
vertical link etc. I don't know what the bolt spacing is though.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2014 2:25 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question

Arrgh.  Copy / pasted through notepad this time.

I received this question and have no clue what the answer is (and of course
don't have any GT6 front caliper mounts).  Anyone on this list know the
answer?  See below.

Thanks, Tony Drews


Dear Sir,

I have a Lotus Europa that I race in Vintage and am upgrading the front
brakes.

A fellow competitor has an Europa with Wilwood calipers and GT6 discs. The
Wilwood caliper has a 3'5" spacing between the mounting holes. These calipers
fit directly onto the competitors caliper mount. He believes that his caliper
mounts are from a GT6 with a 3'5"
spacing between the bolts.

My car has Spitfire caliper mounts with a 3.25" spacing between the bolts.

Do you know if the GT6 caliper mounts have the 3.5" spacing and will they fit
onto the Spitfire vertical link.

If the GT6 mounts will work, do you have a pair available.

Please forward price and availability.

Thanks for your help


Peter Taft
pftaft@earthlink.net


At 01:12 PM 12/6/2014, Tony Drews wrote:

>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/info@dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  6 14:24:37 2014
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 <20141206205155.440112580B9A@autox.team.net>
From: Tony and Annie Garmey <horizonracing@msn.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2014 13:07:24 -0800
To: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
 FILETIME=[A8541BD0:01D01198]
Cc: "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes.  ! Measuring off a lotus 23 using the Hearld / GT 6 vertical link , the
caliper mounts are 3.5 . Dave bean eng . Has machined alloy mounts . Might
want to check the off set . I'm unsure of what the hub is from on the lotus &
the caliper is a girling  AR,

Tony

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 6, 2014, at 12:55 PM, "Tony Drews" <tony@tonydrews.com> wrote:
>
> Arrgh.  Copy / pasted through notepad this time.
>
> I received this question and have no clue what the answer is (and of course
don't have any GT6 front caliper mounts).  Anyone on this list know the
answer?  See below.
>
> Thanks, Tony Drews
>
>
> Dear Sir,
>
> I have a Lotus Europa that I race in Vintage and am upgrading the front
brakes.
>
> A fellow competitor has an Europa with Wilwood calipers and GT6 discs. The
Wilwood caliper has a 3'5" spacing between the mounting holes. These calipers
fit directly onto the competitors caliper mount. He believes that his caliper
mounts are from a GT6 with a 3'5" spacing between the bolts.
>
> My car has Spitfire caliper mounts with a 3.25" spacing between the bolts.
>
> Do you know if the GT6 caliper mounts have the 3.5" spacing and will they
fit onto the Spitfire vertical link.
>
> If the GT6 mounts will work, do you have a pair available.
>
> Please forward price and availability.
>
> Thanks for your help
>
>
> Peter Taft
> pftaft@earthlink.net
>
>
> At 01:12 PM 12/6/2014, Tony Drews wrote:
>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing@msn.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  6 15:23:07 2014
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'Diesel Performance Parts - Info'"
 <info@dieselperformanceparts.com>, "'Tony Drews'" <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <20141206194020.7D9252580B0E@autox.team.net>
 <20141206205129.63590258449F@autox.team.net> <QMTf1p00D0NyJgq01MTgzm>
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2014 15:06:34 -0700
Thread-Index: AdARlvJpxZZf5a6gTGafGKyo+OqfmgAAJQLwAAI6nmA=
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

If you use early Spitfire vertical links with the separate caliper mount,
the GT6 caliper brackets will bolt right on.  I learned this when Joe Siam
needed some early Spit caliper brackets and I gave him a pair off my car
once I discovered I could use the GT6 brackets.  The only thing I had to do
was shave a little metal off the back of the hubs and shim the GT6 calipers
to fit properly without any interference.

Joe C.


-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Diesel
Performance Parts - Info
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2014 2:03 PM
To: 'Tony Drews'
Cc: 'fot@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question

The GT6 caliper mount will not fit a Spitfire vertical link if my memory
serves me correctly anyway. When you change from Spit brakes to GT6 brakes
you
have to have the whole wheel end to do it. Caliper, rotor, and stub axle and
vertical link etc. I don't know what the bolt spacing is though.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2014 2:25 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question

Arrgh.  Copy / pasted through notepad this time.

I received this question and have no clue what the answer is (and of course
don't have any GT6 front caliper mounts).  Anyone on this list know the
answer?  See below.

Thanks, Tony Drews


Dear Sir,

I have a Lotus Europa that I race in Vintage and am upgrading the front
brakes.

A fellow competitor has an Europa with Wilwood calipers and GT6 discs. The
Wilwood caliper has a 3'5" spacing between the mounting holes. These
calipers
fit directly onto the competitors caliper mount. He believes that his
caliper
mounts are from a GT6 with a 3'5"
spacing between the bolts.

My car has Spitfire caliper mounts with a 3.25" spacing between the bolts.

Do you know if the GT6 caliper mounts have the 3.5" spacing and will they
fit
onto the Spitfire vertical link.

If the GT6 mounts will work, do you have a pair available.

Please forward price and availability.

Thanks for your help


Peter Taft
pftaft@earthlink.net


At 01:12 PM 12/6/2014, Tony Drews wrote:

>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/info@dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist@cox.net
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  6 15:52:17 2014
Return-Path: <fot-bounces@autox.team.net>
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From: "Spitfire Racing" <spitfire_racing@twcny.rr.com>
To: "'Diesel Performance Parts - Info'"
 <info@dieselperformanceparts.com>, "'Tony Drews'" <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <20141206194020.7D9252580B0E@autox.team.net>
 <20141206205129.63590258449F@autox.team.net>
 <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A481763CD1CCE735@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2014 17:28:21 -0500
Thread-Index: AdARlvJpxZZf5a6gTGafGKyo+OqfmgAAJQLwAALmQ6A=
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark is spot on with his response, realize bearings will also be larger
which is a positive for racing applications. New vertical links are
available (Rimmers) and be careful with used ones especially if you don't
crack test them. There's a weak area where the threads end.
Spitfire guys do this upgrade regularly-improves safety margin and provides
better braking. Realize you then are using pads that are the same for a TR4
and also a Datsun 240Z (open up the pin holes slightly). There's lots of
great compounds for racing in that configuration.

Russ Moore
Spitfire #49

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Diesel
Performance Parts - Info
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2014 4:03 PM
To: 'Tony Drews'
Cc: 'fot@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question

The GT6 caliper mount will not fit a Spitfire vertical link if my memory
serves me correctly anyway. When you change from Spit brakes to GT6 brakes
you have to have the whole wheel end to do it. Caliper, rotor, and stub axle
and vertical link etc. I don't know what the bolt spacing is though.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2014 2:25 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question

Arrgh.  Copy / pasted through notepad this time.

I received this question and have no clue what the answer is (and of course
don't have any GT6 front caliper mounts).  Anyone on this list know the
answer?  See below.

Thanks, Tony Drews


Dear Sir,

I have a Lotus Europa that I race in Vintage and am upgrading the front
brakes.

A fellow competitor has an Europa with Wilwood calipers and GT6 discs. The
Wilwood caliper has a 3'5" spacing between the mounting holes. These
calipers fit directly onto the competitors caliper mount. He believes that
his caliper mounts are from a GT6 with a 3'5"
spacing between the bolts.

My car has Spitfire caliper mounts with a 3.25" spacing between the bolts.

Do you know if the GT6 caliper mounts have the 3.5" spacing and will they
fit onto the Spitfire vertical link.

If the GT6 mounts will work, do you have a pair available.

Please forward price and availability.

Thanks for your help


Peter Taft
pftaft@earthlink.net


At 01:12 PM 12/6/2014, Tony Drews wrote:

>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/info@dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing@twcny.rr.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  7 06:39:36 2014
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Received: by 98.138.101.164; Sun, 07 Dec 2014 13:25:59 +0000 
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2014 13:25:59 +0000 (UTC)
From: Brian Dennis <britracer89@yahoo.com>
To: Diesel Performance Parts - Info <info@dieselperformanceparts.com>, 
 FOT List Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A481763CD1CCE735@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
Cc: "Jr. Robert Rickner" <rhrflyer@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob Rickner (RRF Classic Car) carries new forged vertical links for GT6 and
Spitfire. His personal hobby is Lotus stuff so he is also knowledgeable with
the Lotus. He has both solid trunion pin and drilled pin vertical links. He
has a nice trunionless set up I've been running on my car for several years
now. He carries aluminum hubs and caliper brackets. His email:B Jr. Robert
Rickner <rhrflyer@hotmail.com>
Nice guy. Good to deal with.BrianFoster, RI

      From: Diesel Performance Parts - Info <info@dieselperformanceparts.com>
 To: 'Tony Drews' <tony@tonydrews.com>
Cc: "'fot@autox.team.net'" <fot@autox.team.net>
 Sent: Saturday, December 6, 2014 4:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question

The GT6 caliper mount will not fit a Spitfire vertical link if my memory
serves me correctly anyway. When you change from Spit brakes to GT6 brakes
you
have to have the whole wheel end to do it. Caliper, rotor, and stub axle and
vertical link etc. I don't know what the bolt spacing is though.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2014 2:25 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question

Arrgh.B  Copy / pasted through notepad this time.

I received this question and have no clue what the answer is (and of course
don't have any GT6 front caliper mounts).B  Anyone on this list know the
answer?B  See below.

Thanks, Tony Drews


Dear Sir,

I have a Lotus Europa that I race in Vintage and am upgrading the front
brakes.

A fellow competitor has an Europa with Wilwood calipers and GT6 discs. The
Wilwood caliper has a 3'5" spacing between the mounting holes. These calipers
fit directly onto the competitors caliper mount. He believes that his caliper
mounts are from a GT6 with a 3'5"
spacing between the bolts.

My car has Spitfire caliper mounts with a 3.25" spacing between the bolts.

Do you know if the GT6 caliper mounts have the 3.5" spacing and will they fit
onto the Spitfire vertical link.

If the GT6 mounts will work, do you have a pair available.

Please forward price and availability.

Thanks for your help


Peter Taft
pftaft@earthlink.net


At 01:12 PM 12/6/2014, Tony Drews wrote:

>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/info@dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britracer89@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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 0QKh2k3rxK3IhS3VzJXf6MhnTA87bTt6AGdFzqp9qLCxp6V4BMddkanMngC0nxOPydVxKcYObmhd
 qS89c4TVTtV.m9.o4IXb0M4NEyytqBG.YaOAg9xQQ3Y9j6BPoKTdPZqQeG5r2Y1ABnnaZIOofTNF
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 rT74KIdpxvzbvYuOEYis8cQh9RfbEI_.iYM4DzaPMKgfIj8Um3euyH3W5vQ4.vBlicWLo1kdTPkZ
 LRrwUXQ--
Received: by 98.138.105.205; Sun, 07 Dec 2014 16:49:06 +0000 
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2014 16:49:05 +0000 (UTC)
From: Brian Dennis <britracer89@yahoo.com>
To: Diesel Performance Parts - Info <info@dieselperformanceparts.com>, 
 'Tony Drews' <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A481763CD1CCE735@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
Cc: "'fot@autox.team.net'" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob Rickner (RRF Classic Car) carries new forged vertical links for GT6 and
Spitfire. His personal hobby is Lotus stuff so he is also knowledgeable with
the Lotus. He has both solid trunion pin and drilled pin vertical links. He
has a nice trunionless set up I've been running on my car for several years
now. He carries aluminum hubs and caliper brackets. His email:B Jr. Robert
Rickner <rhrflyer@hotmail.com>
Nice guy. Good to deal with.BrianFoster, RI


      From: Diesel Performance Parts - Info <info@dieselperformanceparts.com>
 To: 'Tony Drews' <tony@tonydrews.com>
Cc: "'fot@autox.team.net'" <fot@autox.team.net>
 Sent: Saturday, December 6, 2014 4:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question

The GT6 caliper mount will not fit a Spitfire vertical link if my memory
serves me correctly anyway. When you change from Spit brakes to GT6 brakes
you
have to have the whole wheel end to do it. Caliper, rotor, and stub axle and
vertical link etc. I don't know what the bolt spacing is though.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2014 2:25 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question

Arrgh.B  Copy / pasted through notepad this time.

I received this question and have no clue what the answer is (and of course
don't have any GT6 front caliper mounts).B  Anyone on this list know the
answer?B  See below.

Thanks, Tony Drews


Dear Sir,

I have a Lotus Europa that I race in Vintage and am upgrading the front
brakes.

A fellow competitor has an Europa with Wilwood calipers and GT6 discs. The
Wilwood caliper has a 3'5" spacing between the mounting holes. These calipers
fit directly onto the competitors caliper mount. He believes that his caliper
mounts are from a GT6 with a 3'5"
spacing between the bolts.

My car has Spitfire caliper mounts with a 3.25" spacing between the bolts.

Do you know if the GT6 caliper mounts have the 3.5" spacing and will they fit
onto the Spitfire vertical link.

If the GT6 mounts will work, do you have a pair available.

Please forward price and availability.

Thanks for your help


Peter Taft
pftaft@earthlink.net


At 01:12 PM 12/6/2014, Tony Drews wrote:

>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/info@dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britracer89@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  7 15:59:14 2014
Return-Path: <fot-bounces@autox.team.net>
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Sensitivity: Normal
To: "Frank Southers" <fsouthers@gvtc.com>, "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
From: gasket.works@gte.net
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:47:41 +0000
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-A Race Car
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I am forwarding Franks info..
NFI
Mordy

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: "Frank Southers" <fsouthers@gvtc.com>
Date: Sun, 07 Dec 2014 16:25:05 
To: <gasket.works@gte.net>
Subject: TR4-A Race Car

Hello, my name is Frank W. Southers. I live in Spring Branch, Texas (just
outside of San Antonio, Texas). I was a member of the SCCA for nearly 25
years. I last raced in 1992 driving an E Production '66 Triumph TR-4A IRS.
After several reasonably successful seasons, I chose to disassemble the car
and change some items on the car. As you well know, these projects take
time. I completed most everything with the exception to the bodywork. I took
the car to a Houston race prep/bodywork shop where they were willing to take
on the project of adding a box type flare to the wheel wells. I got the car
back about a year and a half later somewhat butchered. 

 

While getting other items ready for the car's return, I ultimately found
myself out of the race hobby and with a lady who is now my wife. I always
said, even before her, I would stay with the race hobby until I was 50 years
of age. It's been awhile and I have not done much with the car since it came
back from Houston over 16 years ago. I am now 56, and it seems harder than
ever to find/make the time to begin to work on the car.

 

I am looking for a good home for the car and its spares. I hope to find
someone within the FOT organization who may be interested. I am not
particular about CVRA, FOT,HSR, SCCA, or SVRA.  In fact, any vintage
organization will do. 

 

The engine has not run since 2004. The Tilton clutch never received its
slave cylinder, The Driveshaft is disconnected. The brake system needs some
work as it has been laid up dry now for many years. And, of course, the body
is in bad shape after the butcher had a shot at it.

 

The car and its spares should go as a package. Its spares can always be
removed somewhere else later.  At this point, I would prefer someone come
haul it and its spares away. 

 

The following items are currently installed on a rolling chassis:

 

Engine:           .040 cylinder liner kit, Carrillo Rods, Tilton flywheel,
Venolia pop-up pistons, Crane high lift cam, remote oil filter and cooler,
Griffin aluminum radiator (in the stock radiator's location), aluminum
radiator shroud, remote expansion tank, K & N filters, SU carbs 

 

Gearbox:        basic stock gearbox, standard ratios, counterweight mounted
to tailpiece

 

Differential:    presently has a 3.7:1 locked

 

Suspension: solid bushings front & rear, Koni shocks in front, Armstrongs 

                        in rear, Speedway Engineering anti-roll bars front &
rear

 

Brakes:           standard size Triumph brakes all around, Tilton dual
master 

                        cylinder set-up with a bias-bar, steel braided brake
hoses

 

Clutch:            Tilton clutch master cylinder and clutch assembly

 

Misc.:              Fiberglass hood. Original hood. (not damaged at all),
full  

                     roll cage with bracing front and rear, Kirkey racing
seat, 

                    Simpson 6 point harness, fuel cell 

 

Tires/

Wheels:          Jongbloed 15 x 7, 3 piece aluminum wheels - Goodyear 15 x
24 r-8, Revolution 15 x 7 cast aluminum wheels, 15 x 7 pressed steel wheels
used for rains w/ Falken VR street tires.

 

Spares:          I have a spreadsheet which lists the spares I have

 

 

In closing, I appreciate the time it took you to read this email and hope
you know of someone who may be interested. Feel free to forward it to them.
I chose to contact the webmaster (you) since there was no other contact
information on the website. Should anyone be interested, I am willing to
take/send photos of any part/section of the car that is requested. You may
respond to my email or call me at 830-980-6194.

 

fsouthers@gvtc.com

 

 

Cordially, 

Frank W. Southers
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  7 19:31:08 2014
Return-Path: <fot-bounces@autox.team.net>
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From: Mordy <gasket.works@gte.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Dec 2014 18:07:27 -0800
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Kastner g3 camshaft
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Looking for a g3 cam. If you know of someone that would like to sell...

Thanks

Mordy

Gasket Works USA, llc
Www.headgasket.com
626.358.1616 ph
626.628.3777 fx

Triple R Munitions  Inc
626.201.9471
FFL 06, 07 
SOT 2
Gmt -8
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  8 06:33:05 2014
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From: Diesel Performance Parts - Info <info@dieselperformanceparts.com>
To: 'Brian Dennis' <britracer89@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 07:13:16 -0600
Thread-Topic: [Fot] Front Caliper question
Thread-Index: AdAS6Heuf7rzKGUcTrun/iNOstCrmAAACCjw
References: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A481763CD1CCE735@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
 <1085106449.634062.1417958759051.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10071.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
acceptlanguage: en-US
  a=EpCmqmUwonNx2x65zUBjwg==]
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  a=hTZeC7Yk6K0A:10]
Cc: "'fot@autox.team.net'" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Would this be the same parts that are sold by the English Company that specializes in Triumphbs?? I canbt remember their name right now, maybe Rimmer Bros??

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com
From: Brian Dennis [mailto:britracer89@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2014 7:26 AM
To: Diesel Performance Parts - Info; FOT List Triumph
Cc: Jr. Robert Rickner
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question


Nice guy. Good to deal with.
Brian
Foster, RI


________________________________
Sent: Saturday, December 6, 2014 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question

The GT6 caliper mount will not fit a Spitfire vertical link if my memory
serves me correctly anyway. When you change from Spit brakes to GT6 brakes you
have to have the whole wheel end to do it. Caliper, rotor, and stub axle and
vertical link etc. I don't know what the bolt spacing is though.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com<http://www.dieselperformanceparts.com>
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2014 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Front Caliper question

Arrgh.  Copy / pasted through notepad this time.

I received this question and have no clue what the answer is (and of course
don't have any GT6 front caliper mounts).  Anyone on this list know the
answer?  See below.

Thanks, Tony Drews


Dear Sir,

I have a Lotus Europa that I race in Vintage and am upgrading the front
brakes.

A fellow competitor has an Europa with Wilwood calipers and GT6 discs. The
Wilwood caliper has a 3'5" spacing between the mounting holes. These calipers
fit directly onto the competitors caliper mount. He believes that his caliper
mounts are from a GT6 with a 3'5"
spacing between the bolts.

My car has Spitfire caliper mounts with a 3.25" spacing between the bolts.

Do you know if the GT6 caliper mounts have the 3.5" spacing and will they fit
onto the Spitfire vertical link.

If the GT6 mounts will work, do you have a pair available.

Please forward price and availability.

Thanks for your help


Peter Taft


At 01:12 PM 12/6/2014, Tony Drews wrote:

>_______________________________________________
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________

http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/info@dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________

http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  8 11:23:39 2014
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From: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>
To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Thread-Index: AdATEIZgxtbNFX4OQCi02XlOhDDL5g==
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 17:58:08 +0000
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Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
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George Wright, please contact me.....thanks

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  8 15:09:15 2014
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Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 21:41:51 +0000 (UTC)
From: toodamnfunky@comcast.net
To: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: Tony D get his pic in Engine Builder magazine
Thread-Index: Kd/miByD9xF+zntRpNOpMh7ljVZZHA==
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Subject: [Fot] Tony D get his pic in Engine Builder magazine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

They mistook you for a TR6 though. Great magazine by the way.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/09/british-invasion-kings-horsepower/
B 
jim
B 
B 
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  8 15:52:55 2014
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From: Bill Dentinger <BillDentin@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 16:33:05 -0600
To: "toodamnfunky@comcast.net" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Fot] Tony D get his pic in Engine Builder magazine
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Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

As fast as Tony goes, I'm surprised they did not say TR8.

Bill Dentinger

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 8, 2014, at 3:41 PM, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:
>
> They mistook you for a TR6 though. Great magazine by the way.
> http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/09/british-invasion-kings-horsepower/
> B
> jim
> B
> B
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  8 16:52:43 2014
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Subject: Re: [Fot] Tony D get his pic in Engine Builder magazine
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Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Great article.  A little light on some facts but neat to read.
-----Original Message-----
From: toodamnfunky <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
To:
fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Dec 8, 2014 5:21 pm
Subject: [Fot] Tony D
get his pic in Engine Builder magazine


They mistook you for a TR6 though.
Great magazine by the way.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/09/british-invasion-kings-horsepower/
B
jim
B 
B 
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive:
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  8 20:38:37 2014
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Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2014 21:22:28 -0600
To: toodamnfunky@comcast.net,fot <fot@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <661242206.11780459.1418074629028.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Fot] Tony D get his pic in Engine Builder magazine
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That's awesome!  Thanks for sharing!

Tony Drews

At 03:41 PM 12/8/2014, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:
>They mistook you for a TR6 though. Great magazine by the way.
>http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/09/british-invasion-kings-horsepower/
>B
>jim
>B
>B
>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  9 10:12:06 2014
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From: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2014 10:57:37 -0600
To: "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
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Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB) business
model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12 years)
so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery. Now I
get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears that
going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it. (Probably
with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where you're
losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on our
bonnet between sessions!)

Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems or
will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now going to
have "vintage" transponders, too?
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  9 14:28:29 2014
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From: "Rocky Entriken" <rocky@spitfire4.com>
To: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>, <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <D36005D1-B26E-45E2-AD7D-99C0B51C9234@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2014 14:49:10 -0600
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I've always thought the non-rechargeable transponder was the way to go. 
Never have to fuss with recharging (or dead batteries). Install it and 
forget it. I hooked mine up to the "out" terminal of my master switch. When 
the car is "on" the transponder is on. If I don't plan to use it for a long 
period of time, I just take the fuse out.

--Rocky Entriken

. "There are only three true sports -- bullfighting, mountain climbing and 
motor racing. The rest are merely games." --Barnaby Conrad (NOT Hemingway)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 10:57 AM
Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder


> Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB) 
> business
> model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12 
> years)
> so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery. Now 
> I
> get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears 
> that
> going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it. 
> (Probably
> with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where you're
> losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on our
> bonnet between sessions!)
>
> Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems 
> or
> will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now going 
> to
> have "vintage" transponders, too?
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky@spitfire4.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  9 16:57:21 2014
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From: Bill Dentinger <BillDentin@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2014 17:34:29 -0600
To: Friends of Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Fot] Non TRIUMPH related...
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AMICI...

I am a long time subscriber to AUTOWEEK, but sometimes I wonder why.  I like
the weekly competition section, and articles about radical new models, but
after that the magazine is like a big catalog.

This week's edition is an exception, as there are some great articles about
the DODGE BROTHERS and the evolution of the DODGE marque.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: Michael Moore <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>
To: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>, "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Thread-Index: AQHQE9PSZ52s+kHpc06ln5zYnjITUpyIwuiw
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 12:33:33 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

John, I am looking to purchase one also, my rechargeable isn't holding charge
anymore.

Can't tell from website, will this new version still work for timing and
scoring at track if you don't have a subscription?

Thanks
Mike

62 TR4, Race car
63 TR4, Street car

Mike & Becky Moore
6050 Ruhl Road
Fairview, PA 16415



-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Frymark
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:58 AM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder

Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB) business
model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12 years)
so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery. Now I
get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears that
going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it. (Probably
with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where you're
losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on our
bonnet between sessions!)

Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems or
will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now going to
have "vintage" transponders, too?
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 10 10:26:38 2014
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Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 17:30:07 +0000 (UTC)
From: toodamnfunky@comcast.net
To: Michael Moore <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>
References: <D36005D1-B26E-45E2-AD7D-99C0B51C9234@aol.com>
 <DM2PR0401MB1119AF96B866E8488981B743B4620@DM2PR0401MB1119.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Thread-Index: AQHQE9PSZ52s+kHpc06ln5zYnjITUpyIwuiwbKstjHE=
 s=q20140121; t=1418232608;
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Cc: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>, fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

My battery is getting weak also so I'm sending off to these folks down under.
Some say the batteries they use are better than original.
I'm not anxious to pay another $ 480.00 for a new one. What a Monopoly AMB has
going ! #&@(+!.
I can buy a new flat screen TV for less. I guess when your a sole supplier to
organized racing in the US you can name your own price.
I'm a little annoyed that SCCA, NASA, IMSA, IRL and NASCAR put up with it. A
conspiracy theorist might suggest they are equity partners
with AMB. Their gross profit from these thingsB must exceed
70%.............end rant.
jim
B 


http://www.transponderservices.com/FAQ-mylaps-AMB-transponder-services.html

B 

B 
B 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Michael Moore" <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>
To: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>, "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:33:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder

John, I am looking to purchase one also, my rechargeable isn't holding charge
anymore.

Can't tell from website, will this new version still work for timing and
scoring at track if you don't have a subscription?

Thanks
Mike

62 TR4, Race car
63 TR4, Street car

Mike & Becky Moore
6050 Ruhl Road
Fairview, PA 16415



-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Frymark
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:58 AM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder

Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB) business
model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12 years)
so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery. Now I
get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears that
going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it. (Probably
with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where you're
losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on our
bonnet between sessions!)

Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems or
will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now going to
have "vintage" transponders, too?
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 10 10:42:41 2014
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From: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 11:38:51 -0600
References: <D36005D1-B26E-45E2-AD7D-99C0B51C9234@aol.com>
 <DM2PR0401MB1119AF96B866E8488981B743B4620@DM2PR0401MB1119.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
 <2008862685.981236.1418232607629.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
To: toodamnfunky@comcast.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
 s=20140625; t=1418233135;
 bh=W7sl1UFak6dfo0tBzxNKhwFqn6gwY90tyt5qj5dnh3w=;
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Cc: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,
This is the same service I think I'm going to use. Looks like a $100 or so
will keep me going for a while. Since I haven't heard any club chatter about
changes required for the future, I hope I can avoid the $$$ for a
non-performance part.
John Frymark

On Dec 10, 2014, at 11:30 AM, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:

> My battery is getting weak also so I'm sending off to these folks down
under. Some say the batteries they use are better than original.
> I'm not anxious to pay another $ 480.00 for a new one. What a Monopoly AMB
has going ! #&@(+!.
> I can buy a new flat screen TV for less. I guess when your a sole supplier
to organized racing in the US you can name your own price.
> I'm a little annoyed that SCCA, NASA, IMSA, IRL and NASCAR put up with it. A
conspiracy theorist might suggest they are equity partners
> with AMB. Their gross profit from these things must exceed
70%.............end rant.
> jim
>
> http://www.transponderservices.com/FAQ-mylaps-AMB-transponder-services.html
>
>
>
>
> From: "Michael Moore" <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>
> To: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>, "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:33:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>
> John, I am looking to purchase one also, my rechargeable isn't holding
charge
> anymore.
>
> Can't tell from website, will this new version still work for timing and
> scoring at track if you don't have a subscription?
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> 62 TR4, Race car
> 63 TR4, Street car
>
> Mike & Becky Moore
> 6050 Ruhl Road
> Fairview, PA 16415
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Frymark
> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:58 AM
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>
> Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB) business
> model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12
years)
> so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery. Now I
> get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears that
> going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it. (Probably
> with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where you're
> losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on our
> bonnet between sessions!)
>
> Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems or
> will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now going
to
> have "vintage" transponders, too?
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 10 10:42:56 2014
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From: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>
To: Friends of Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Bell Housing
Thread-Index: AdAUoXrwblmi1BbuQBKWaS8+noKIqA==
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 17:45:55 +0000
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
x-originating-ip: [192.168.123.236]
  a=VR8QHrWKYhK80xkEBGCjUg==]
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Subject: [Fot] Bell Housing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Are TR4 and TR6 housing the same?

John H. Hasty | MULLEN HOLLAND & COOPER P.A.
Attorney at Law
301 South York Street  (zip: 28052)
P.O. Box 488
Gastonia, NC 28053-0488
Telephone: 704.864.6751 | Facsimile: 704.861.8394
JHasty@mhc-law.com<http://@mhc-law.com> |
www.mhc-law.com<http://www.mhc-law.com/>
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 10 11:45:23 2014
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From: "Steve Yott" <tr4@wi.rr.com>
To: "'John Hasty'" <jhasty@mhc-law.com>, "'Friends of Triumph'"
 <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <F4B338FE9635B14C903076FEC6B0E2A51D6F363B@ATLPEXDAG006.xc.lan>
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 12:39:38 -0600
Thread-Index: AdAUoXrwblmi1BbuQBKWaS8+noKIqAABwclQ
Content-Language: en-us
 a=fnFn1fNgoXPPV0bsU6PlVg==:117 a=fnFn1fNgoXPPV0bsU6PlVg==:17
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 a=MVDrLQDD3NUA:10 a=B6OhLMug29UA:10 a=m3MdUl94G8cA:10
 a=yTcOSzJjhyoA:10
Subject: Re: [Fot] Bell Housing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Shape and mounting points are the same.... construction changed (improved
over the years) with added strength.

Steve Yott

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Hasty
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 11:46 AM
To: Friends of Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Bell Housing

Are TR4 and TR6 housing the same?

John H. Hasty | MULLEN HOLLAND & COOPER P.A.
Attorney at Law
301 South York Street  (zip: 28052)
P.O. Box 488
Gastonia, NC 28053-0488
Telephone: 704.864.6751 | Facsimile: 704.861.8394
JHasty@mhc-law.com<http://@mhc-law.com> |
www.mhc-law.com<http://www.mhc-law.com/>
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 10 12:30:58 2014
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From: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>
To: Friends of Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: bell housing
Thread-Index: AdAUr7pdPOxA9dz6R9uf2GCdUagJ7Q==
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 19:28:31 +0000
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
x-originating-ip: [192.168.123.236]
  a=VR8QHrWKYhK80xkEBGCjUg==]
  a=BLc]
  a=YlVTAMxI]
  a=CjuIK1]
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  a=1IWRV7cmVZJaqEhyPA0A]
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  a=yTcOSzJjhyoA:10]
Subject: [Fot] bell housing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks everyone....my suspicions were confirmed....size, patterns etc. same,
better construction in the 6.

John H. Hasty | MULLEN HOLLAND & COOPER P.A.
Attorney at Law
301 South York Street  (zip: 28052)
P.O. Box 488
Gastonia, NC 28053-0488
Telephone: 704.864.6751 | Facsimile: 704.861.8394
JHasty@mhc-law.com<http://@mhc-law.com> |
www.mhc-law.com<http://www.mhc-law.com/>
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 10 15:58:13 2014
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Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 22:51:00 +0000 (UTC)
From: toodamnfunky@comcast.net
To: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>
References: <D36005D1-B26E-45E2-AD7D-99C0B51C9234@aol.com>
 <DM2PR0401MB1119AF96B866E8488981B743B4620@DM2PR0401MB1119.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
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 <7E3ED6EE-2966-4F11-9021-874BCA9DE0AC@aol.com>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: MyLaps transponder
Thread-Index: s18248uR+5AG0Pr9WZtSvy8D/ejerQ==
 s=q20140121; t=1418251860;
 bh=EOQ10CYualDkAwUcWgYhWxOudJdUAy8ZB5dQ4Bo9M+g=;
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Cc: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

John,
The new battery is $ 63.00 USD plus shipping.
jim

----- Original Message -----

From: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>
To: toodamnfunky@comcast.net
Cc: "Michael Moore" <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>, "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 10:38:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder

Jim,
This is the same service I think I'm going to use. Looks like a $100 or so
will keep me going for a while. Since I haven't heard any club chatter about
changes required for the future, I hope I can avoid the $$$ for a
non-performance part.
John Frymark

On Dec 10, 2014, at 11:30 AM, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:




My battery is getting weak also so I'm sending off to these folks down under.
Some say the batteries they use are better than original.
I'm not anxious to pay another $ 480.00 for a new one. What a Monopoly AMB has
going ! #&@(+!.
I can buy a new flat screen TV for less. I guess when your a sole supplier to
organized racing in the US you can name your own price.
I'm a little annoyed that SCCA, NASA, IMSA, IRL and NASCAR put up with it. A
conspiracy theorist might suggest they are equity partners
with AMB. Their gross profit from these thingsB must exceed
70%.............end rant.
jim
B 
http://www.transponderservices.com/FAQ-mylaps-AMB-transponder-services.html


B 

B 
B 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Michael Moore" < mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com >
To: "John Frymark" < jfrymark@aol.com >, "fot" < fot@autox.team.net >
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:33:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder

John, I am looking to purchase one also, my rechargeable isn't holding charge
anymore.

Can't tell from website, will this new version still work for timing and
scoring at track if you don't have a subscription?

Thanks
Mike

62 TR4, Race car
63 TR4, Street car

Mike & Becky Moore
6050 Ruhl Road
Fairview, PA 16415



-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot- bounces@autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of John Frymark
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:58 AM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder

Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB) business
model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12 years)
so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery. Now I
get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears that
going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it. (Probably
with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where you're
losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on our
bonnet between sessions!)

Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems or
will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now going to
have "vintage" transponders, too?
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 10 17:57:12 2014
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From: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>
To: "toodamnfunky@comcast.net" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
Thread-Topic: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Thread-Index: AQHQFN2ubgRCoHUcRkOI7oyQD4AZOw==
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2014 00:59:13 +0000
References: <D36005D1-B26E-45E2-AD7D-99C0B51C9234@aol.com>
 <DM2PR0401MB1119AF96B866E8488981B743B4620@DM2PR0401MB1119.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
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Accept-Language: en-US
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  a=VR8QHrWKYhK80xkEBGCjUg==]
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  a=Jcvz]
  a=1d-7oZjL6vWTPk2-:21 ]
  a=mx9KMoBCZvQA:10 ]
Cc: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>, fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not sure I understand.  My transponder has no battery, it is wired in to
the car's battery, comes on when the cut off switch & the instruments switch
are cut on.   ?????

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 10, 2014, at 6:01 PM, "toodamnfunky@comcast.net"
<toodamnfunky@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> John,
> The new battery is $ 63.00 USD plus shipping.
> jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>
> To: toodamnfunky@comcast.net
> Cc: "Michael Moore" <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>, "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 10:38:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>
> Jim,
> This is the same service I think I'm going to use. Looks like a $100 or so
> will keep me going for a while. Since I haven't heard any club chatter
about
> changes required for the future, I hope I can avoid the $$$ for a
> non-performance part.
> John Frymark
>
> On Dec 10, 2014, at 11:30 AM, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:
>
>
>
>
> My battery is getting weak also so I'm sending off to these folks down
under.
> Some say the batteries they use are better than original.
> I'm not anxious to pay another $ 480.00 for a new one. What a Monopoly AMB
has
> going ! #&@(+!.
> I can buy a new flat screen TV for less. I guess when your a sole supplier
to
> organized racing in the US you can name your own price.
> I'm a little annoyed that SCCA, NASA, IMSA, IRL and NASCAR put up with it.
A
> conspiracy theorist might suggest they are equity partners
> with AMB. Their gross profit from these thingsB must exceed
> 70%.............end rant.
> jim
> B
> http://www.transponderservices.com/FAQ-mylaps-AMB-transponder-services.html
>
>
> B
>
> B
> B
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Michael Moore" < mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com >
> To: "John Frymark" < jfrymark@aol.com >, "fot" < fot@autox.team.net >
> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:33:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>
> John, I am looking to purchase one also, my rechargeable isn't holding
charge
> anymore.
>
> Can't tell from website, will this new version still work for timing and
> scoring at track if you don't have a subscription?
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> 62 TR4, Race car
> 63 TR4, Street car
>
> Mike & Becky Moore
> 6050 Ruhl Road
> Fairview, PA 16415
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot- bounces@autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of John Frymark
> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:58 AM
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>
> Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB) business
> model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12
years)
> so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery. Now I
> get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears that
> going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it. (Probably
> with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where you're
> losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on our
> bonnet between sessions!)
>
> Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems or
> will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now going
to
> have "vintage" transponders, too?
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 10 18:29:54 2014
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 10 Dec 2014 20:33:38 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 20:33:35 -0500
From: Todd Redmond <alfetta95@optonline.net>
To: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>
References: <D36005D1-B26E-45E2-AD7D-99C0B51C9234@aol.com>
 <DM2PR0401MB1119AF96B866E8488981B743B4620@DM2PR0401MB1119.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
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 <6CA20AD2-053C-41C3-AED2-15144E17C24C@mhc-law.com>
Cc: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>, fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

John.  They also make battery operated ones that need to be charged.  

Thanks
Todd Redmond

> On Dec 10, 2014, at 7:59 PM, John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com> wrote:
> 
> I'm not sure I understand.  My transponder has no battery, it is wired in to
> the car's battery, comes on when the cut off switch & the instruments switch
> are cut on.   ?????
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Dec 10, 2014, at 6:01 PM, "toodamnfunky@comcast.net"
>> <toodamnfunky@comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>> John,
>> The new battery is $ 63.00 USD plus shipping.
>> jim
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>> From: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>
>> To: toodamnfunky@comcast.net
>> Cc: "Michael Moore" <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>, "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 10:38:51 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>> 
>> Jim,
>> This is the same service I think I'm going to use. Looks like a $100 or so
>> will keep me going for a while. Since I haven't heard any club chatter
> about
>> changes required for the future, I hope I can avoid the $$$ for a
>> non-performance part.
>> John Frymark
>> 
>> On Dec 10, 2014, at 11:30 AM, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> My battery is getting weak also so I'm sending off to these folks down
> under.
>> Some say the batteries they use are better than original.
>> I'm not anxious to pay another $ 480.00 for a new one. What a Monopoly AMB
> has
>> going ! #&@(+!.
>> I can buy a new flat screen TV for less. I guess when your a sole supplier
> to
>> organized racing in the US you can name your own price.
>> I'm a little annoyed that SCCA, NASA, IMSA, IRL and NASCAR put up with it.
> A
>> conspiracy theorist might suggest they are equity partners
>> with AMB. Their gross profit from these thingsB must exceed
>> 70%.............end rant.
>> jim
>> B
>> http://www.transponderservices.com/FAQ-mylaps-AMB-transponder-services.html
>> 
>> 
>> B
>> 
>> B
>> B
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>> From: "Michael Moore" < mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com >
>> To: "John Frymark" < jfrymark@aol.com >, "fot" < fot@autox.team.net >
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:33:33 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>> 
>> John, I am looking to purchase one also, my rechargeable isn't holding
> charge
>> anymore.
>> 
>> Can't tell from website, will this new version still work for timing and
>> scoring at track if you don't have a subscription?
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Mike
>> 
>> 62 TR4, Race car
>> 63 TR4, Street car
>> 
>> Mike & Becky Moore
>> 6050 Ruhl Road
>> Fairview, PA 16415
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Fot [mailto:fot- bounces@autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of John Frymark
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:58 AM
>> To: fot@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>> 
>> Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB) business
>> model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12
> years)
>> so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery. Now I
>> get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears that
>> going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it. (Probably
>> with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where you're
>> losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on our
>> bonnet between sessions!)
>> 
>> Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems or
>> will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now going
> to
>> have "vintage" transponders, too?
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty@mhc-law.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 10 19:27:37 2014
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From: Greg And Alison Blake <ablake2@austin.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 20:31:21 -0600
To: "toodamnfunky@comcast.net" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
Cc: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>, fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I've often wondered about this. I know the packaging and the type of
transponder are different, but we can buy sticker transponders ( think toll
tags) for as little as $1.00 these days.  I really have a hard time
understanding the AMB price, other than we all seem to pony up.



> On Dec 10, 2014, at 11:30 AM, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:
>
> My battery is getting weak also so I'm sending off to these folks down
under.
> Some say the batteries they use are better than original.
> I'm not anxious to pay another $ 480.00 for a new one. What a Monopoly AMB
has
> going ! #&@(+!.
> I can buy a new flat screen TV for less. I guess when your a sole supplier
to
> organized racing in the US you can name your own price.
> I'm a little annoyed that SCCA, NASA, IMSA, IRL and NASCAR put up with it.
A
> conspiracy theorist might suggest they are equity partners
> with AMB. Their gross profit from these thingsB must exceed
> 70%.............end rant.
> jim
> B
>
>
> http://www.transponderservices.com/FAQ-mylaps-AMB-transponder-services.html
>
> B
>
> B
> B
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Michael Moore" <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>
> To: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>, "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:33:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>
> John, I am looking to purchase one also, my rechargeable isn't holding
charge
> anymore.
>
> Can't tell from website, will this new version still work for timing and
> scoring at track if you don't have a subscription?
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> 62 TR4, Race car
> 63 TR4, Street car
>
> Mike & Becky Moore
> 6050 Ruhl Road
> Fairview, PA 16415
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Frymark
> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:58 AM
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>
> Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB) business
> model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12
years)
> so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery. Now I
> get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears that
> going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it. (Probably
> with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where you're
> losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on our
> bonnet between sessions!)
>
> Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems or
> will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now going
to
> have "vintage" transponders, too?
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 10 20:42:54 2014
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From: Tony and Annie Garmey <horizonracing@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2014 19:43:41 -0800
To: Greg And Alison Blake <ablake2@austin.rr.com>
 FILETIME=[A82C0FA0:01D014F4]
Cc: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>, fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I have seen , a rechargeable transponder with external wires added to create a
hard wired unit. Don't know how?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 10, 2014, at 6:31 PM, "Greg And Alison Blake" <ablake2@austin.rr.com>
wrote:
>
> I've often wondered about this. I know the packaging and the type of
> transponder are different, but we can buy sticker transponders ( think toll
> tags) for as little as $1.00 these days.  I really have a hard time
> understanding the AMB price, other than we all seem to pony up.
>
>
>
>> On Dec 10, 2014, at 11:30 AM, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:
>>
>> My battery is getting weak also so I'm sending off to these folks down
> under.
>> Some say the batteries they use are better than original.
>> I'm not anxious to pay another $ 480.00 for a new one. What a Monopoly AMB
> has
>> going ! #&@(+!.
>> I can buy a new flat screen TV for less. I guess when your a sole supplier
> to
>> organized racing in the US you can name your own price.
>> I'm a little annoyed that SCCA, NASA, IMSA, IRL and NASCAR put up with it.
> A
>> conspiracy theorist might suggest they are equity partners
>> with AMB. Their gross profit from these thingsB must exceed
>> 70%.............end rant.
>> jim
>> B
>>
>>
>>
http://www.transponderservices.com/FAQ-mylaps-AMB-transponder-services.html
>>
>> B
>>
>> B
>> B
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>> From: "Michael Moore" <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>
>> To: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>, "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:33:33 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>>
>> John, I am looking to purchase one also, my rechargeable isn't holding
> charge
>> anymore.
>>
>> Can't tell from website, will this new version still work for timing and
>> scoring at track if you don't have a subscription?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Mike
>>
>> 62 TR4, Race car
>> 63 TR4, Street car
>>
>> Mike & Becky Moore
>> 6050 Ruhl Road
>> Fairview, PA 16415
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Frymark
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:58 AM
>> To: fot@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>>
>> Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB)
business
>> model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12
> years)
>> so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery. Now
I
>> get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears
that
>> going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it.
(Probably
>> with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where you're
>> losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on our
>> bonnet between sessions!)
>>
>> Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems
or
>> will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now going
> to
>> have "vintage" transponders, too?
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ablake2@austin.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 10 23:16:49 2014
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Received: by 76.13.27.49; Thu, 11 Dec 2014 06:20:33 +0000 
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2014 06:20:32 +0000 (UTC)
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl@yahoo.com>
To: Rocky Entriken <rocky@spitfire4.com>, John Frymark
 <jfrymark@aol.com>,  "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <D36005D1-B26E-45E2-AD7D-99C0B51C9234@aol.com>
 <1D6E9C0777304A14973D587759E193E7@rocky>
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

DittoB from Mike Mehl #46 TR 4
B       From: Rocky Entriken <rocky@spitfire4.com>
 To: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>; fot@autox.team.net
 Sent: Tuesday, December 9, 2014 12:49 PM
 Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder

I've always thought the non-rechargeable transponder was the way to go.
Never have to fuss with recharging (or dead batteries). Install it and
forget it. I hooked mine up to the "out" terminal of my master switch. When
the car is "on" the transponder is on. If I don't plan to use it for a long
period of time, I just take the fuse out.

--Rocky Entriken

. "There are only three true sports -- bullfighting, mountain climbing and
motor racing. The rest are merely games." --Barnaby Conrad (NOT Hemingway)

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 10:57 AM
Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder


> Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB)
> business
> model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12
> years)
> so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery. Now
> I
> get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears
> that
> going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it.
> (Probably
> with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where you're
> losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on our
> bonnet between sessions!)
>
> Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems
> or
> will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now going
> to
> have "vintage" transponders, too?
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky@spitfire4.com
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 11 09:04:13 2014
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From: D V <explore8@outlook.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2014 10:07:51 -0600
To: Tony and Annie Garmey <horizonracing@msn.com>
 FILETIME=[9F020A70:01D0155C]
Cc: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>, fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

The PO of my car did the same thing. I haven't had any issues with it.


Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 10, 2014, at 9:46 PM, "Tony and Annie Garmey" <horizonracing@msn.com>
wrote:

> I have seen , a rechargeable transponder with external wires added to create
a
> hard wired unit. Don't know how?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Dec 10, 2014, at 6:31 PM, "Greg And Alison Blake"
<ablake2@austin.rr.com>
> wrote:
>>
>> I've often wondered about this. I know the packaging and the type of
>> transponder are different, but we can buy sticker transponders ( think
toll
>> tags) for as little as $1.00 these days.  I really have a hard time
>> understanding the AMB price, other than we all seem to pony up.
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Dec 10, 2014, at 11:30 AM, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:
>>>
>>> My battery is getting weak also so I'm sending off to these folks down
>> under.
>>> Some say the batteries they use are better than original.
>>> I'm not anxious to pay another $ 480.00 for a new one. What a Monopoly
AMB
>> has
>>> going ! #&@(+!.
>>> I can buy a new flat screen TV for less. I guess when your a sole
supplier
>> to
>>> organized racing in the US you can name your own price.
>>> I'm a little annoyed that SCCA, NASA, IMSA, IRL and NASCAR put up with
it.
>> A
>>> conspiracy theorist might suggest they are equity partners
>>> with AMB. Their gross profit from these thingsB must exceed
>>> 70%.............end rant.
>>> jim
>>> B
> http://www.transponderservices.com/FAQ-mylaps-AMB-transponder-services.html
>>>
>>> B
>>>
>>> B
>>> B
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>> From: "Michael Moore" <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>
>>> To: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>, "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:33:33 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>>>
>>> John, I am looking to purchase one also, my rechargeable isn't holding
>> charge
>>> anymore.
>>>
>>> Can't tell from website, will this new version still work for timing and
>>> scoring at track if you don't have a subscription?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> 62 TR4, Race car
>>> 63 TR4, Street car
>>>
>>> Mike & Becky Moore
>>> 6050 Ruhl Road
>>> Fairview, PA 16415
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Frymark
>>> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:58 AM
>>> To: fot@autox.team.net
>>> Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>>>
>>> Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB)
> business
>>> model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12
>> years)
>>> so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery. Now
> I
>>> get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears
> that
>>> going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it.
> (Probably
>>> with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where you're
>>> losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on our
>>> bonnet between sessions!)
>>>
>>> Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems
> or
>>> will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now
going
>> to
>>> have "vintage" transponders, too?
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ablake2@austin.rr.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing@msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/explore8@outlook.com
_______________________________________________
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Cc: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>, fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

The May 2014 VSCDA newsletter has an article detailing how this can be done.

http://www.vscda.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/May-2014.pdf


Brian Garcia
Friendly Ghost Racing

> On Dec 11, 2014, at 8:07 AM, D V <explore8@outlook.com> wrote:
>
> The PO of my car did the same thing. I haven't had any issues with it.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 10, 2014, at 9:46 PM, "Tony and Annie Garmey"
<horizonracing@msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I have seen , a rechargeable transponder with external wires added to
create
> a
>> hard wired unit. Don't know how?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Dec 10, 2014, at 6:31 PM, "Greg And Alison Blake"
> <ablake2@austin.rr.com>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I've often wondered about this. I know the packaging and the type of
>>> transponder are different, but we can buy sticker transponders ( think
> toll
>>> tags) for as little as $1.00 these days.  I really have a hard time
>>> understanding the AMB price, other than we all seem to pony up.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Dec 10, 2014, at 11:30 AM, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:
>>>>
>>>> My battery is getting weak also so I'm sending off to these folks down
>>> under.
>>>> Some say the batteries they use are better than original.
>>>> I'm not anxious to pay another $ 480.00 for a new one. What a Monopoly
> AMB
>>> has
>>>> going ! #&@(+!.
>>>> I can buy a new flat screen TV for less. I guess when your a sole
> supplier
>>> to
>>>> organized racing in the US you can name your own price.
>>>> I'm a little annoyed that SCCA, NASA, IMSA, IRL and NASCAR put up with
> it.
>>> A
>>>> conspiracy theorist might suggest they are equity partners
>>>> with AMB. Their gross profit from these thingsB must exceed
>>>> 70%.............end rant.
>>>> jim
>>>> B
>>
http://www.transponderservices.com/FAQ-mylaps-AMB-transponder-services.html
>>>>
>>>> B
>>>>
>>>> B
>>>> B
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>
>>>> From: "Michael Moore" <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>
>>>> To: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>, "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:33:33 AM
>>>> Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>>>>
>>>> John, I am looking to purchase one also, my rechargeable isn't holding
>>> charge
>>>> anymore.
>>>>
>>>> Can't tell from website, will this new version still work for timing and
>>>> scoring at track if you don't have a subscription?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Mike
>>>>
>>>> 62 TR4, Race car
>>>> 63 TR4, Street car
>>>>
>>>> Mike & Becky Moore
>>>> 6050 Ruhl Road
>>>> Fairview, PA 16415
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Frymark
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:58 AM
>>>> To: fot@autox.team.net
>>>> Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>>>>
>>>> Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB)
>> business
>>>> model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12
>>> years)
>>>> so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery.
Now
>> I
>>>> get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears
>> that
>>>> going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it.
>> (Probably
>>>> with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where
you're
>>>> losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on
our
>>>> bonnet between sessions!)
>>>>
>>>> Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new" systems
>> or
>>>> will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now
> going
>>> to
>>>> have "vintage" transponders, too?
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ablake2@austin.rr.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing@msn.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/explore8@outlook.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cudapilot@comcast.net
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 11 12:34:16 2014
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References: <D36005D1-B26E-45E2-AD7D-99C0B51C9234@aol.com>
 <DM2PR0401MB1119AF96B866E8488981B743B4620@DM2PR0401MB1119.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
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 <0AEC7531-17AC-47A3-8D27-0F9B3E86B8DD@comcast.net>
From: Jim Gray <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2014 12:37:42 -0700
To: Brian Garcia <cudapilot@comcast.net>
 s=q20140121; t=1418326682;
 bh=DA8gsAzOTYIqOs5Cm0XSabX/lvJ/MLx3SFOCRfrfd0c=;
 h=Received:Received:Mime-Version:Content-Type:Message-Id:From:
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 mNRtpUCo+bUug==
Cc: John Frymark <jfrymark@aol.com>, fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Brian, your timing with that info couldn't be better. I was just about
to send mine Down Under.
Jim

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 11, 2014, at 12:06 PM, Brian Garcia <cudapilot@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> The May 2014 VSCDA newsletter has an article detailing how this can be
done.
>
> http://www.vscda.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/May-2014.pdf
>
>
> Brian Garcia
> Friendly Ghost Racing
>
>> On Dec 11, 2014, at 8:07 AM, D V <explore8@outlook.com> wrote:
>>
>> The PO of my car did the same thing. I haven't had any issues with it.
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 10, 2014, at 9:46 PM, "Tony and Annie Garmey"
> <horizonracing@msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have seen , a rechargeable transponder with external wires added to
> create
>> a
>>> hard wired unit. Don't know how?
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>> On Dec 10, 2014, at 6:31 PM, "Greg And Alison Blake"
>> <ablake2@austin.rr.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I've often wondered about this. I know the packaging and the type of
>>>> transponder are different, but we can buy sticker transponders ( think
>> toll
>>>> tags) for as little as $1.00 these days.  I really have a hard time
>>>> understanding the AMB price, other than we all seem to pony up.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> On Dec 10, 2014, at 11:30 AM, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> My battery is getting weak also so I'm sending off to these folks down
>>>> under.
>>>>> Some say the batteries they use are better than original.
>>>>> I'm not anxious to pay another $ 480.00 for a new one. What a Monopoly
>> AMB
>>>> has
>>>>> going ! #&@(+!.
>>>>> I can buy a new flat screen TV for less. I guess when your a sole
>> supplier
>>>> to
>>>>> organized racing in the US you can name your own price.
>>>>> I'm a little annoyed that SCCA, NASA, IMSA, IRL and NASCAR put up with
>> it.
>>>> A
>>>>> conspiracy theorist might suggest they are equity partners
>>>>> with AMB. Their gross profit from these thingsB must exceed
>>>>> 70%.............end rant.
>>>>> jim
>>>>> B
> http://www.transponderservices.com/FAQ-mylaps-AMB-transponder-services.html
>>>>>
>>>>> B
>>>>>
>>>>> B
>>>>> B
>>>>>
>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>
>>>>> From: "Michael Moore" <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>
>>>>> To: "John Frymark" <jfrymark@aol.com>, "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:33:33 AM
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>>>>>
>>>>> John, I am looking to purchase one also, my rechargeable isn't holding
>>>> charge
>>>>> anymore.
>>>>>
>>>>> Can't tell from website, will this new version still work for timing
and
>>>>> scoring at track if you don't have a subscription?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>> Mike
>>>>>
>>>>> 62 TR4, Race car
>>>>> 63 TR4, Street car
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike & Becky Moore
>>>>> 6050 Ruhl Road
>>>>> Fairview, PA 16415
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Frymark
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 11:58 AM
>>>>> To: fot@autox.team.net
>>>>> Subject: [Fot] MyLaps transponder
>>>>>
>>>>> Are any of you up to date on the changes with the MyLaps (old AMB)
>>> business
>>>>> model? My rechargeable transponder won't hold a charge (after about 12
>>>> years)
>>>>> so I'm investigating the guys that say they can put in a new battery.
> Now
>>> I
>>>>> get an email from MyLaps announcing their new X2 system and it appears
>>> that
>>>>> going forward you need a subscription (the razor blade?) with it.
>>> (Probably
>>>>> with all kinds of smart phone connectivity/apps with data on where
> you're
>>>>> losing time on track so we'll need drop down, flat screen monitors on
> our
>>>>> bonnet between sessions!)
>>>>>
>>>>> Have any of the tracks or clubs indicated a switch over to "new"
systems
>>> or
>>>>> will an old AMB transponder work for the foreseeable future? Are now
>> going
>>>> to
>>>>> have "vintage" transponders, too?
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>>
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>>
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>>
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ablake2@austin.rr.com
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing@msn.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/explore8@outlook.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cudapilot@comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 13 09:56:49 2014
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From: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>
To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Savannah
Thread-Index: AdAW9isGpmHvFwhtQ/WjKL+tUDyF5w==
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2014 16:59:33 +0000
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Subject: [Fot] Savannah
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Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark has his TR4 down to1:28 about 1 sec. Behind Greg Miller's veery fast
Morgan
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 13 15:51:33 2014
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Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2014 16:49:36 -0600
To: fot@autox.team.net
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
 {sentby:smtp auth 173.31.234.34 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Rear motor / trans mount plate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have an extra TR-4 rear motor / trans mount plate (the 
one that the trans mount bolts to which in turn bolts to the 
frame)?  Mine's getting kinda beat up and I'd like something in better shape.

Thanks, Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 14 04:52:01 2014
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From: Michael Moore <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>
To: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>, "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Fot] TR-4 Rear motor / trans mount plate
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Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 Rear motor / trans mount plate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I think Sean and Joe Alexander make a really nice upgraded one

Thanks
Mike

Michael T. Moore, CPA
2007 West 32nd Street
Erie, PA 16508

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
Fax:        814-864-7383

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2014 5:50 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Rear motor / trans mount plate

Does anyone have an extra TR-4 rear motor / trans mount plate (the one that
the trans mount bolts to which in turn bolts to the frame)?  Mine's getting
kinda beat up and I'd like something in better shape.

Thanks, Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 14 07:22:50 2014
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Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2014 08:26:25 -0600
To: Michael Moore <mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com>, "fot@autox.team.net"
 <fot@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
 amprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <20141213225135.9C4C025844EF@autox.team.net>
 <BY2PR0401MB11107572174335DC69D128A9B46E0@BY2PR0401MB1110.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
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Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 Rear motor / trans mount plate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

They make the mount itself (which is very cool and is what I'm 
running now).  This was for the plate / crossmember that it mounts 
to.  I think I've got the right parts coming and appreciate the 
helpfulness of the list!

Cheers, Tony

At 05:51 AM 12/14/2014, Michael Moore wrote:
>I think Sean and Joe Alexander make a really nice upgraded one
>
>Thanks
>Mike
>
>Michael T. Moore, CPA
>2007 West 32nd Street
>Erie, PA 16508
>
>Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>Fax:        814-864-7383
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews
>Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2014 5:50 PM
>To: fot@autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Rear motor / trans mount plate
>
>Does anyone have an extra TR-4 rear motor / trans mount plate (the 
>one that the trans mount bolts to which in turn bolts to the 
>frame)?  Mine's getting kinda beat up and I'd like something in better shape.
>
>Thanks, Tony Drews
>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore@mtmcpafirm.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 08:55:46 2014
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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 10:56:08 -0500
 FILETIME=[A4A71170:01D0187F]
Subject: [Fot] TR6 crank journal dimensions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Anybody have the dimensions handy for the TR6 crankshaft main and rod
journals? I don't seem have them at work. I found some on the internet but
think they left off a number.



Thanks,



Marty
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 09:12:39 2014
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From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
To: "marty" <trmarty@hotmail.com>, "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU168-W56F859F5948ECEA5492F25BA6F0@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 08:09:58 -0800
 reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 crank journal dimensions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

According to my manual,
Main journal diameter 2.311-2.3115"
Crankpin diameter 1.875-1.8755"
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty" <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 7:56 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR6 crank journal dimensions


> Anybody have the dimensions handy for the TR6 crankshaft main and rod
> journals? I don't seem have them at work. I found some on the internet but
> think they left off a number.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Marty
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly@mitchelplumbing.com
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 09:14:50 2014
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From: "Steve Yott" <tr4@wi.rr.com>
To: "'marty'" <trmarty@hotmail.com>, "'FOT'" <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU168-W56F859F5948ECEA5492F25BA6F0@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 10:18:28 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 crank journal dimensions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Mains 2.3110 to 2.3315 (way too much tolerance here)  Shoot for the middle
2.3215
Rods 1.8750 to 1.8755 

I like to keep a street engine tight and a race engine loose....

Steve Yott

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 9:56 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] TR6 crank journal dimensions

Anybody have the dimensions handy for the TR6 crankshaft main and rod
journals? I don't seem have them at work. I found some on the internet but
think they left off a number.



Thanks,



Marty
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 09:17:02 2014
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From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen@me.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 11:21:46 -0500
References: <BLU168-W56F859F5948ECEA5492F25BA6F0@phx.gbl>
 <40EB32EBB5FE4ADEB01840AF6EC8E82F@Charly>
To: Charly Mitchel <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
Cc: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 crank journal dimensions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Charly's numbers are correct - I'm in the middle of a GT6 build - same
dimensions, and that's where they should be before grinding undersize.

On Dec 15, 2014, at 11:09 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote:

According to my manual,
Main journal diameter 2.311-2.3115"
Crankpin diameter 1.875-1.8755"
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message ----- From: "marty" <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 7:56 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR6 crank journal dimensions


> Anybody have the dimensions handy for the TR6 crankshaft main and rod
> journals? I don't seem have them at work. I found some on the internet but
> think they left off a number.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Marty
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly@mitchelplumbing.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 09:25:20 2014
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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Scott Janzen <sjanzen@me.com>, Charly Mitchel <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 11:27:05 -0500
References: <BLU168-W56F859F5948ECEA5492F25BA6F0@phx.gbl>,
 <40EB32EBB5FE4ADEB01840AF6EC8E82F@Charly>,
 <E4146371-A352-45BE-B5ED-942393F09B75@me.com>
 FILETIME=[F7BAEEF0:01D01883]
Cc: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 crank journal dimensions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks everybody.



Marty




Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 crank journal dimensions
From: sjanzen@me.com
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 11:21:46 -0500
CC: trmarty@hotmail.com; fot@autox.team.net
To: charly@mitchelplumbing.com

Charly's numbers are correct - I'm in the middle of a GT6 build - same
dimensions, and that's where they should be before grinding undersize.




On Dec 15, 2014, at 11:09 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote:
According to my manual,
Main journal diameter 2.311-2.3115"
Crankpin diameter 1.875-1.8755"
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message ----- From: "marty" <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 7:56 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR6 crank journal dimensions



Anybody have the dimensions handy for the TR6 crankshaft main and rod

journals? I don't seem have them at work. I found some on the internet but

think they left off a number.







Thanks,







Marty

_______________________________________________

fot@autox.team.net



http://www.fot-racing.com




Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly@mitchelplumbing.com
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 12:15:35 2014
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From: Don Marshall <dmar823@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 14:15:27 -0500
To: Friends of Triumph <FOT@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] SU H6 question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Are all H6 carbs the same?  The Moss catalog shows 2 different numbers for
them, depending on whether its early TR3 or later TR3/early TR4.  Assuming
they'll be used with a late TR4A long intake manifold, does the version of
the H6 matter?
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 13:29:31 2014
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From: TR4 Tony <tr4.tony@virgin.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 20:32:14 +0000
To: Don Marshall <dmar823@gmail.com>
Cc: Friends of Triumph <FOT@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] SU H6 question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Don

I believe that the version available is based on the TR7 carb - they have an
extra bleed hole and a few other differences as I recall.

there is a guy called andrew turner who sells reconditioned carbs on eBay. He
might also be worth talking to.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my iPhone

> On 15 Dec 2014, at 19:15, Don Marshall <dmar823@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Are all H6 carbs the same?  The Moss catalog shows 2 different numbers for
> them, depending on whether its early TR3 or later TR3/early TR4.  Assuming
> they'll be used with a late TR4A long intake manifold, does the version of
> the H6 matter?
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4.tony@virgin.net
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 13:57:16 2014
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References: <CALsVEtB013ODHV7u=wB03qj_yA5mp5ozaY52cesEpvv8FMzfAg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CB666E84-2A90-461A-92DA-19E236B0F97C@virgin.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 16:00:47 -0500
From: Bruce Stutzman <stutztr4@gmail.com>
To: TR4 Tony <tr4.tony@virgin.net>
Cc: Friends of Triumph <FOT@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] SU H6 question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Don,
H6 carbs are too long to use on the long manifold unless you want to push
in the inner fender.
All H carbs are the same length. HS carbs (horizonal short) go with the
long manifold.
The only difference between late and early H carbs is the float bowl top
and banjo fittings as far as I know.
Bruce

On Mon, Dec 15, 2014 at 3:32 PM, TR4 Tony <tr4.tony@virgin.net> wrote:
>
> Don
>
> I believe that the version available is based on the TR7 carb - they have
> an
> extra bleed hole and a few other differences as I recall.
>
> there is a guy called andrew turner who sells reconditioned carbs on eBay.
> He
> might also be worth talking to.
>
> Regards
> Tony
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On 15 Dec 2014, at 19:15, Don Marshall <dmar823@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Are all H6 carbs the same?  The Moss catalog shows 2 different numbers
> for
> > them, depending on whether its early TR3 or later TR3/early TR4.
> Assuming
> > they'll be used with a late TR4A long intake manifold, does the version
> of
> > the H6 matter?
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot@autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4.tony@virgin.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutztr4@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 14:13:11 2014
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From: Don Marshall <dmar823@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 16:13:59 -0500
To: Friends of Triumph <FOT@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] H6 carb question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the responses.  This is for a TR4 race car and supposedly the
long carb (H6) and long manifold (TR4A) is the best combination for racing,
although you have to put a dent in the inner fender to make it fit. Thanks,
Don
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 14:32:03 2014
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From: "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31@verizon.net>
To: "marty" <trmarty@hotmail.com>,	"FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU168-W56F859F5948ECEA5492F25BA6F0@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 16:35:50 -0500
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 crank journal dimensions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, I couldn't find it in my Triumph manuals, but Chilton's said 2.3110 to 
2.3115 for mains and 1.8750  to 1.8755 for rods.
Main brg oil clearance 0.0015 to 0.0025 and rod brg oil clearance 0.0010 to 
0.0027.
Hope this helps.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty" <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 10:56 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR6 crank journal dimensions


> Anybody have the dimensions handy for the TR6 crankshaft main and rod
> journals? I don't seem have them at work. I found some on the internet but
> think they left off a number.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Marty
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31@verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 16:15:56 2014
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Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 18:19:32 -0500
From: Bill Sohl <billsohl@optonline.net>
To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Watch feds crush classic Mini caught in importation
 dragnet - Autoblog
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

This will make you sick.

Doesn't the feds have anything better to do with
our taxes?

Bill Sohl

----- Original Message ----- 
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 1:40 PM
Subject: Watch feds crush classic Mini caught in importation dragnet - 
Autoblog


>
> http://www.autoblog.com/2014/12/12/watch-feds-crush-classic-mini-caught-in-importation-dragnet/?icid=autos%7Clatest-auto-news%7Ccontent
>
>
> Sent from my iPad 
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 16:25:41 2014
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From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
To: "Bill Sohl" <billsohl@optonline.net>, "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <7CBE06FD6541409DB552174E94CE30E5@SohlPC>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 15:29:04 -0800
 reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0
Subject: Re: [Fot] Fw: Watch feds crush classic Mini caught in importation
 dragnet - Autoblog
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

it seemed like that Mini held up better than the Land Rover

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46OOs9_R8eI

Charly Mitchel
charly@mitchelplumbing.com
www.mitchelplumbing.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Sohl" <billsohl@optonline.net>
To: "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 3:19 PM
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Watch feds crush classic Mini caught in importation 
dragnet - Autoblog


> This will make you sick.
>
> Doesn't the feds have anything better to do with
> our taxes?
>
> Bill Sohl
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 1:40 PM
> Subject: Watch feds crush classic Mini caught in importation dragnet - 
> Autoblog
>
>
>>
>> http://www.autoblog.com/2014/12/12/watch-feds-crush-classic-mini-caught-in-importation-dragnet/?icid=autos%7Clatest-auto-news%7Ccontent
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly@mitchelplumbing.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 15 18:00:59 2014
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From: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
To: "'Charly Mitchel'" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>, "'Bill Sohl'"
 <billsohl@optonline.net>, "'FOT'" <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 18:05:45 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Fot] Fw: Watch feds crush classic Mini caught in importation
 dragnet - Autoblog
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I feel safe knowing my government knows whats good for me and is looking out
for my well being. By the way, that's not an illegal car, it's just
undocumented. If the mini were human it would have had a free place to live,
medical care, welfare and maybe even government subsidies to start a
business by now. 
jim


-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charly Mitchel
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 4:29 PM
To: Bill Sohl; FOT
Subject: Re: [Fot] Fw: Watch feds crush classic Mini caught in importation
dragnet - Autoblog

it seemed like that Mini held up better than the Land Rover

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46OOs9_R8eI

Charly Mitchel
charly@mitchelplumbing.com
www.mitchelplumbing.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Sohl" <billsohl@optonline.net>
To: "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 3:19 PM
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Watch feds crush classic Mini caught in importation 
dragnet - Autoblog


> This will make you sick.
>
> Doesn't the feds have anything better to do with
> our taxes?
>
> Bill Sohl
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 1:40 PM
> Subject: Watch feds crush classic Mini caught in importation dragnet - 
> Autoblog
>
>
>>
>>
http://www.autoblog.com/2014/12/12/watch-feds-crush-classic-mini-caught-in-i
mportation-dragnet/?icid=autos%7Clatest-auto-news%7Ccontent
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly@mitchelplumbing.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 19 12:15:13 2014
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From: Dan <adcronin@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 14:18:33 -0500
To: FOT List Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] . Head intake / exhaust port question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Folks,
I have posted to a couple of TR related sites and have received conflicting
info to this inquiry:

In one of Kas Kastner's recent books he shows a couple of cross sections thru
the intake and exhaust ports.  On the exhaust he shows a weld build up
location behind the valve guide that then gets ground down to smooth the
transition of the outgoing gas.  Wondering if anyone has tried to use MOROSO A
+ B Epoxy in place of the weld and if so what has been the result?  TR Driver
in a reply indicated that as long as the exhaust gas didn't exceed 250 degrees
it should work.  So next question is what is the normal exhaust gas temp on
might see in the pocket just below the exhaust valve?
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 19 12:26:27 2014
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Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 13:30:06 -0600
To: Dan <adcronin@gmail.com>,FOT List Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <12712A58-5A54-4591-AFFC-7EB36596F466@gmail.com>
 {sentby:smtp auth 173.31.234.34 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [Fot] . Head intake / exhaust port question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

EGT's are in the 1300 to 1400 degree range 6" from the head.  Will be 
higher in the head itself.

Tony Drews

At 01:18 PM 12/19/2014, Dan wrote:
>Folks,
>I have posted to a couple of TR related sites and have received conflicting
>info to this inquiry:
>
>In one of Kas Kastner's recent books he shows a couple of cross sections thru
>the intake and exhaust ports.  On the exhaust he shows a weld build up
>location behind the valve guide that then gets ground down to smooth the
>transition of the outgoing gas.  Wondering if anyone has tried to use MOROSO A
>+ B Epoxy in place of the weld and if so what has been the result?  TR Driver
>in a reply indicated that as long as the exhaust gas didn't exceed 250 degrees
>it should work.  So next question is what is the normal exhaust gas temp on
>might see in the pocket just below the exhaust valve?
>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 14:35:31 -0500
From: Hugh Barber <tr6nut@verizon.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Dan <adcronin@gmail.com>, FOT List Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <12712A58-5A54-4591-AFFC-7EB36596F466@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] . Head intake / exhaust port question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know the exact "average" for a TR motor, but the average EGT for 
a 4-stroke motor is well above 250 degrees. In fact, I think it's closer 
to 1000 degrees (maybe a bit more). In any case, way too high for epoxy.

On 12/19/2014 2:18 PM, Dan wrote:

  I have posted to a couple of TR related sites and have received 
conflicting info to this inquiry: In one of Kas Kastner's recent books 
he shows a couple of cross sections thru the intake and exhaust ports. 
On the exhaust he shows a weld build up location behind the valve guide 
that then gets ground down to smooth the transition of the outgoing gas. 
Wondering if anyone has tried to use MOROSO A + B Epoxy in place of the 
weld and if so what has been the result? ....
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 19 12:35:44 2014
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From: "Steve Yott" <tr4@wi.rr.com>
To: "'Dan'" <adcronin@gmail.com>, "'FOT List Triumph'"
  <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <12712A58-5A54-4591-AFFC-7EB36596F466@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 13:36:49 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Fot] . Head intake / exhaust port question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

My opinion only but, I would never use an epoxy in the exhaust port as the
temps are way too high and the epoxy will turn to liquid!  This works fine
in an intake port (but not the pocket) that is relatively cool.  On the
exhaust the transition from the pocket to the runner is really bad on flow
as it is nearly a right angle.  What I do is grind down the valve guide boss
in order to smooth the transition.  I have taken as much as 3/32" from the
boss and then rounded the transition as much as possible.  It is a middle of
the road fix but much better than stock and far cheaper than welding.

Steve Yott

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 1:19 PM
To: FOT List Triumph
Subject: [Fot] . Head intake / exhaust port question

Folks,
I have posted to a couple of TR related sites and have received conflicting
info to this inquiry:

In one of Kas Kastner's recent books he shows a couple of cross sections
thru
the intake and exhaust ports.  On the exhaust he shows a weld build up
location behind the valve guide that then gets ground down to smooth the
transition of the outgoing gas.  Wondering if anyone has tried to use MOROSO
A
+ B Epoxy in place of the weld and if so what has been the result?  TR
Driver
in a reply indicated that as long as the exhaust gas didn't exceed 250
degrees
it should work.  So next question is what is the normal exhaust gas temp on
might see in the pocket just below the exhaust valve?
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 19 12:43:09 2014
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From: Jim Gray <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 12:46:44 -0700
To: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
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Cc: FOT List Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>, Dan <adcronin@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] . Head intake / exhaust port question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Tony's right, way too hot for the epoxy which I've heard works for intakes. I
did a lot of welding to my exhaust valve pockets and its a pretty big
commitment even if your the one that's going to grind it all back out.
Just finding a shop that's qualified to do the welding is a big challenge.
I got lucky and found one right here in Denver. I cut sections from a stock
head and clayed in where I wanted the weld so they had a clear guide to work
from. You can see pictures of those sections on TerriAnns site.
I have other pix of the clay work, the welding and the final product if you
choose to go that way.
Jim

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 19, 2014, at 12:30 PM, Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com> wrote:
>
> EGT's are in the 1300 to 1400 degree range 6" from the head.  Will be higher
in the head itself.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 01:18 PM 12/19/2014, Dan wrote:
>> Folks,
>> I have posted to a couple of TR related sites and have received
conflicting
>> info to this inquiry:
>>
>> In one of Kas Kastner's recent books he shows a couple of cross sections
thru
>> the intake and exhaust ports.  On the exhaust he shows a weld build up
>> location behind the valve guide that then gets ground down to smooth the
>> transition of the outgoing gas.  Wondering if anyone has tried to use
MOROSO A
>> + B Epoxy in place of the weld and if so what has been the result?  TR
Driver
>> in a reply indicated that as long as the exhaust gas didn't exceed 250
degrees
>> it should work.  So next question is what is the normal exhaust gas temp
on
>> might see in the pocket just below the exhaust valve?
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 19 13:10:17 2014
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Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 13:14:10 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>, FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Fot] [TR] 10 spline diameters?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Bud wrote:
> Listerati,
>
> What is the diameter of a 10 spline input shaft on a GT6 transmission? Is it
> the exact same size as a 10 spline TR6 transmission?

As I recall, one is 7/8", the other 1". I remember trying to mate a 1" gearbox to a 7/8"
clutch disk late one night at Bailey's many years ago.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: "'FOT'" <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <839A70B8-F888-451F-A31F-7C7C4219DF1C@comcast.net>
 <54948712.2040602@bradakis.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 21:49:24 +0100
Thread-Index: AdAbyHCVmfXX/U9MRYifC6ZIMBhEqgABEmYg
Content-Language: de
Subject: [Fot] 26 spline diameters?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys,

I want to equip my TR8 with new clutch discs.
The car has a triple clutch.
Now it is getting funny.
I measured the splines and found 1-1/8" 26 spline version.
It seems now that this type is named 1-5/32" 26 spline.
And unfortunately there are real 1-5/32 ones available and some which are
1-1/8".

How can this be that two diameters are sold under one size?

BTW....PTT clutch is installed.

Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 19 15:55:34 2014
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Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 17:59:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Dan Forgey <cofrog@q.com>
To: Bud <levilevi@comcast.net>
  (Win)/6.0.8_GA_2685)
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>, FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] [TR] 10 spline diameters?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh, I think Fred may have done it.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bud" <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 1:10:08 PM
Subject: [TR] 10 spline diameters?

Listerati,

What is the diameter of a 10 spline input shaft on a GT6 transmission? Is it
the exact same size as a 10 spline TR6 transmission?

I'm thinking of mating a TR6 tranny to a Spitfire that already has a GT6
tranny. Anyone done this?

I heard that Kas adapted a TR6 to a Spit but haven't seen in any of his books
what is involved. Hope he see's this post and can provided the details. My
hope is that I'm half way there with a GT6 tranny already in place and can use
the existing clutch and flywheel.

Also, any recommendations on companies that reline clutches? The existing
clutch is apparently a custom hybrid for a GT6 tran mated to a Spit.

Thanks
Bud

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 21:35:49 -0500
From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net>
To: Bud <levilevi@comcast.net>
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Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>, FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] [TR] 10 spline diameters?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Bud, GT6 is 1" 10 spline. We did the TR6 trans conversion 40 years ago. We can supply whatever you need - clutch, etc.  Please let me know if we can help. Ted 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Bud <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:

>Listerati,
>
>What is the diameter of a 10 spline input shaft on a GT6 transmission? Is it
>the exact same size as a 10 spline TR6 transmission?
>
>I'm thinking of mating a TR6 tranny to a Spitfire that already has a GT6
>tranny. Anyone done this?
>
>I heard that Kas adapted a TR6 to a Spit but haven't seen in any of his books
>what is involved. Hope he see's this post and can provided the details. My
>hope is that I'm half way there with a GT6 tranny already in place and can use
>the existing clutch and flywheel.
>
>Also, any recommendations on companies that reline clutches? The existing
>clutch is apparently a custom hybrid for a GT6 tran mated to a Spit.
>
>Thanks
>Bud
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx@bright.net
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2014 13:48:45 +0000 (UTC)
From: Jack Wheeler <jwheeler1947@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, 
 "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <e479kjd6ddilmqvmt8bq2w2c.1419042949009@email.android.com>
Subject: [Fot] Fw:  [TR] 10 spline diameters?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

The stock input shaft diameter and splines on the TR-6 and GT-6 transmissions
are different.B  When SCCA approved the Dolomite Sprint close ratio gearbox
(about 1980) for use in the TR-4, the Dolomite gearbox had the same input
shaft as the GT-6.B  So, until I moved up to a Tilton clutch, I simply used a
GT-6 clutch plate with the TR-6 pressure plate.B  I hope this helps.
Jack Wheeler
    ----- Forwarded Message -----
  From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net>
 To: Bud <levilevi@comcast.net>
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>; FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
 Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 9:35 PM
 Subject: Re: [Fot] [TR] 10 spline diameters?

Bud, GT6 is 1" 10 spline. We did the TR6 trans conversion 40 years ago. We can
supply whatever you need - clutch, etc.B  Please let me know if we can help.
Ted

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Bud <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:

>Listerati,
>
>What is the diameter of a 10 spline input shaft on a GT6 transmission? Is it
>the exact same size as a 10 spline TR6 transmission?
>
>I'm thinking of mating a TR6 tranny to a Spitfire that already has a GT6
>tranny. Anyone done this?
>
>I heard that Kas adapted a TR6 to a Spit but haven't seen in any of his
books
>what is involved. Hope he see's this post and can provided the details. My
>hope is that I'm half way there with a GT6 tranny already in place and can
use
>the existing clutch and flywheel.
>
>Also, any recommendations on companies that reline clutches? The existing
>clutch is apparently a custom hybrid for a GT6 tran mated to a Spit.
>
>Thanks
>Bud
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx@bright.net
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947@yahoo.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 20 07:23:06 2014
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From: Bob Kramer <rkramer3@austin.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2014 08:26:58 -0600
To: Jack Wheeler <jwheeler1947@yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
 "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Fw:  [TR] 10 spline diameters?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

So is that the same spline as the TR7/TR8. 5 speed?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 20, 2014, at 7:48 AM, Jack Wheeler <jwheeler1947@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> The stock input shaft diameter and splines on the TR-6 and GT-6
transmissions
> are different.B  When SCCA approved the Dolomite Sprint close ratio gearbox
> (about 1980) for use in the TR-4, the Dolomite gearbox had the same input
> shaft as the GT-6.B  So, until I moved up to a Tilton clutch, I simply used
a
> GT-6 clutch plate with the TR-6 pressure plate.B  I hope this helps.
> Jack Wheeler
>    ----- Forwarded Message -----
>  From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net>
> To: Bud <levilevi@comcast.net>
> Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>; FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 9:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] [TR] 10 spline diameters?
>
> Bud, GT6 is 1" 10 spline. We did the TR6 trans conversion 40 years ago. We
can
> supply whatever you need - clutch, etc.B  Please let me know if we can
help.
> Ted
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
>
> Bud <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Listerati,
>>
>> What is the diameter of a 10 spline input shaft on a GT6 transmission? Is
it
>> the exact same size as a 10 spline TR6 transmission?
>>
>> I'm thinking of mating a TR6 tranny to a Spitfire that already has a GT6
>> tranny. Anyone done this?
>>
>> I heard that Kas adapted a TR6 to a Spit but haven't seen in any of his
> books
>> what is involved. Hope he see's this post and can provided the details. My
>> hope is that I'm half way there with a GT6 tranny already in place and can
> use
>> the existing clutch and flywheel.
>>
>> Also, any recommendations on companies that reline clutches? The existing
>> clutch is apparently a custom hybrid for a GT6 tran mated to a Spit.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx@bright.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3@austin.rr.com
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 20 08:02:58 2014
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From: SCOTT JANZEN <sjanzen@me.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2014 10:06:43 -0500
References: <e479kjd6ddilmqvmt8bq2w2c.1419042949009@email.android.com>
To: Bud <levilevi@comcast.net>
Cc: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] [TR] 10 spline diameters?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

If you put a tr6 box in, you will also need to invert the clutch actuating
shaft, redrill it for the tapered pin from the other direction, and fabricate
a mount for the slave cylinder.  The tr6 slave is underslung and will hit the
frame.  You'll need a new rear trans mount (frame welding), a hybrid shortened
driveshaft with a tr6 yoke on the front end.
Tr6 box weighs about 25- 30 lb more, shift lever ends up in the same place as
a gt6 box and it fits under a gt6 trans cover.
If you put a close ratio gear set in (avail from Moss) the input shaft is 1",
21 spline (tr7 disc?).  Close ratio is great on the track but 1st gear is
really tall for slow speeds.
Also check the input shaft bushing in the crankshaft to make sure it extends
far enough to the rear to support the trans input shaft. Lastly, you will need
a tr6 rear engine plate, which bolts right onto the Gt6 block, don't know
about the spit.


Sent from my mobile device

> On Dec 19, 2014, at 9:35 PM, Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net> wrote:
>
> Bud, GT6 is 1" 10 spline. We did the TR6 trans conversion 40 years ago. We
can supply whatever you need - clutch, etc.  Please let me know if we can
help. Ted
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
>
> Bud <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Listerati,
>>
>> What is the diameter of a 10 spline input shaft on a GT6 transmission? Is
it
>> the exact same size as a 10 spline TR6 transmission?
>>
>> I'm thinking of mating a TR6 tranny to a Spitfire that already has a GT6
>> tranny. Anyone done this?
>>
>> I heard that Kas adapted a TR6 to a Spit but haven't seen in any of his
books
>> what is involved. Hope he see's this post and can provided the details. My
>> hope is that I'm half way there with a GT6 tranny already in place and can
use
>> the existing clutch and flywheel.
>>
>> Also, any recommendations on companies that reline clutches? The existing
>> clutch is apparently a custom hybrid for a GT6 tran mated to a Spit.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx@bright.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 20 10:28:44 2014
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From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net>
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To: fot@autox.team.net
References: <e479kjd6ddilmqvmt8bq2w2c.1419042949009@email.android.com>
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Subject: Re: [Fot] Fw:  [TR] 10 spline diameters?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob, no on spline. GT6 is 1"/10 spline. TR7 is 1"/23 spline. Ted


On 12/20/2014 9:26 AM, Bob Kramer wrote:
> So is that the same spline as the TR7/TR8. 5 speed?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Dec 20, 2014, at 7:48 AM, Jack Wheeler <jwheeler1947@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> The stock input shaft diameter and splines on the TR-6 and GT-6
> transmissions
>> are different.B  When SCCA approved the Dolomite Sprint close ratio gearbox
>> (about 1980) for use in the TR-4, the Dolomite gearbox had the same input
>> shaft as the GT-6.B  So, until I moved up to a Tilton clutch, I simply used
> a
>> GT-6 clutch plate with the TR-6 pressure plate.B  I hope this helps.
>> Jack Wheeler
>>     ----- Forwarded Message -----
>>   From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net>
>> To: Bud <levilevi@comcast.net>
>> Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>; FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 9:35 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] [TR] 10 spline diameters?
>>
>> Bud, GT6 is 1" 10 spline. We did the TR6 trans conversion 40 years ago. We
> can
>> supply whatever you need - clutch, etc.B  Please let me know if we can
> help.
>> Ted
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
>>
>> Bud <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Listerati,
>>>
>>> What is the diameter of a 10 spline input shaft on a GT6 transmission? Is
> it
>>> the exact same size as a 10 spline TR6 transmission?
>>>
>>> I'm thinking of mating a TR6 tranny to a Spitfire that already has a GT6
>>> tranny. Anyone done this?
>>>
>>> I heard that Kas adapted a TR6 to a Spit but haven't seen in any of his
>> books
>>> what is involved. Hope he see's this post and can provided the details. My
>>> hope is that I'm half way there with a GT6 tranny already in place and can
>> use
>>> the existing clutch and flywheel.
>>>
>>> Also, any recommendations on companies that reline clutches? The existing
>>> clutch is apparently a custom hybrid for a GT6 tran mated to a Spit.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bud
>>>
>>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx@bright.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947@yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3@austin.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx@bright.net
>
>
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx@bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 20 16:34:28 2014
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From: "Enquiries Road & Track" <enquiries@roadandtrack.net.au>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 09:37:57 +1000
To: "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] re [TR] 10 spline diameters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

i have a close ratio 'dolomite sprint" type box in my GT6 racer

you use the Dolomite sprint clutch slave bracket and arm/fork  which fits
with few mods

all the factory (leyland ST) close ratio gear sets originally used the
longer dolomite sprint input shaft with 10 x 1 spline, but over the years
various vendors have made shorter input shafts and some  with TR6 clutch
splines. The longer Dolomoite Sprint input shaft from an original close
ratio kit,  is useless

Terry O'Beirne
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 21 16:38:09 2014
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Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 23:41:56 +0000 (UTC)
From: 19to1tr6@comcast.net
To: "team, FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: T5 conversion
Thread-Index: c39NrPFe77esCd7z9I8LosY5ba1EPg==
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Subject: [Fot] T5  conversion
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hello I am consideringB  making the T5 conversion and with so many different
T5s B can anyone suggest the easiest one to work with. This is going into a
TR6B B  thanksB B  Rob
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 22 05:50:20 2014
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Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 07:54:11 -0500 (EST)
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: 19to1tr6@comcast.net
References: <1162453797.8756371.1419205316847.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
Cc: "team, FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] T5  conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I'm not an expert on this, so I'm totally open to ither comments on the 
matter...

My first comment would be that it's not clear that a T5 would give any 
benefit other than being an inexpensive replacement. For most T5 setups, 
the first gear is basically useless for road racing. Because of this, my 
first suggestion would be to skip the T5 and think more seriously about a 
T10. I'm suggesting this because you're more likely to find a good ratio 
mix in the 4-speed T10 and T10 knockoffs than with the T5 unless you want 
to not use first.

Also, I know we're talking current E Prod SCCA gearboxes here. That means 
that you are limited to NON overdrive replacement trannies. Most of the 
ratio sets for the T5 that I've seen are 1:1, so that's working in your 
favor.

That said, all the "successful" Triumph racing gears setups seem to be in 
the following range:

1st   2nd   3rd    4th
2.20, 1.75, 1.25,   1

The Dolly Sprint setup is:
2.19, 1.57, 1.23,   1

In the T10 world, the T10 c/r sets are in the range:
2.20, 1.66, 1.31,   1

If you want a usable first gear for road racing, you need to be closer to 
2.0:1, the Kastner first was 1.88:1 - 2.20 is a bit too much gear to be 
really usable in anything but the tightest corners...

So, if you found a Muncie "Rock Crusher" aka M22 (I think), you'd be 
pretty close to ideal gears, although 2nd is a tad too low compared to 
that 1.57 dolly gear. If you want, I could chart out the RPM ranges for 
you.

Now here's the thing: T10's are replicated in NEW gearboxes from everyone, 
but Summit Racing sells Richmond Gear T10 4-speeds for about $1800. If you 
have more $$$ to spend, then you cannot go wrong with a Jericho and the 
ratios that Kastner spec'd back in the day: 1.88, 1.42, 1.24 and 1 which 
I'm pretty sure is what Sam H runs in his boxes (plus or minus) - and he 
can chime in on that, if he wishes.

The bottom line is that if you are looking for a junk-yard replacement, 
you have to make some compromises in the gearing. From my research - 
that's pretty much "toss first gear from the mix" if you road race.

Note that wikipedia lists a lot of info on gear ratios for the B/W T5 and 
T56, you might be able to use that to zero in on a donor.

Last - there's lots of info out there, but Summit Racing lists the gear 
ratios for all the different boxes they sell. They have a number of 
Richmond Gear T5 clones and they list the ratios - you may be able to use 
that info to zero in on a particular box.

In the spirit of transparancy, I'm also looking at this conversion so I'll 
def. keep you posted on whatever I find.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 22 08:13:50 2014
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From: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>
To: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>, "19to1tr6@comcast.net"
 <19to1tr6@comcast.net>
Thread-Topic: [Fot] T5  conversion
Thread-Index: AQHQHeZh77esCd7z9I8LosY5ba1EPpybuFfQ
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 15:16:08 +0000
References: <1162453797.8756371.1419205316847.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
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Cc: "team, FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] T5  conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

There are many rations available for the T5...I like 2.87  1.89  1.28  1.0 0
.75  also 2.42  1.53  1.23  1.00  .75.  The last time I checked with SVRA a 5
speed is OK since we have 5 speeds with stock trans. + OD.

John H. Hasty | MULLEN HOLLAND & COOPER P.A.
Attorney at Law
301 South York Street  (zip: 28052)
P.O. Box 488
Gastonia, NC 28053-0488
Telephone: 704.864.6751 | Facsimile: 704.861.8394
JHasty@mhc-law.com | www.mhc-law.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert M. Lang
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 7:54 AM
To: 19to1tr6@comcast.net
Cc: team, FOT
Subject: Re: [Fot] T5 conversion

Hi,

I'm not an expert on this, so I'm totally open to ither comments on the
matter...

My first comment would be that it's not clear that a T5 would give any benefit
other than being an inexpensive replacement. For most T5 setups, the first
gear is basically useless for road racing. Because of this, my first
suggestion would be to skip the T5 and think more seriously about a T10. I'm
suggesting this because you're more likely to find a good ratio mix in the
4-speed T10 and T10 knockoffs than with the T5 unless you want to not use
first.

Also, I know we're talking current E Prod SCCA gearboxes here. That means that
you are limited to NON overdrive replacement trannies. Most of the ratio sets
for the T5 that I've seen are 1:1, so that's working in your favor.

That said, all the "successful" Triumph racing gears setups seem to be in the
following range:

1st   2nd   3rd    4th
2.20, 1.75, 1.25,   1

The Dolly Sprint setup is:
2.19, 1.57, 1.23,   1

In the T10 world, the T10 c/r sets are in the range:
2.20, 1.66, 1.31,   1

If you want a usable first gear for road racing, you need to be closer to
2.0:1, the Kastner first was 1.88:1 - 2.20 is a bit too much gear to be really
usable in anything but the tightest corners...

So, if you found a Muncie "Rock Crusher" aka M22 (I think), you'd be pretty
close to ideal gears, although 2nd is a tad too low compared to that 1.57
dolly gear. If you want, I could chart out the RPM ranges for you.

Now here's the thing: T10's are replicated in NEW gearboxes from everyone, but
Summit Racing sells Richmond Gear T10 4-speeds for about $1800. If you have
more $$$ to spend, then you cannot go wrong with a Jericho and the ratios that
Kastner spec'd back in the day: 1.88, 1.42, 1.24 and 1 which I'm pretty sure
is what Sam H runs in his boxes (plus or minus) - and he can chime in on that,
if he wishes.

The bottom line is that if you are looking for a junk-yard replacement, you
have to make some compromises in the gearing. From my research - that's pretty
much "toss first gear from the mix" if you road race.

Note that wikipedia lists a lot of info on gear ratios for the B/W T5 and T56,
you might be able to use that to zero in on a donor.

Last - there's lots of info out there, but Summit Racing lists the gear ratios
for all the different boxes they sell. They have a number of Richmond Gear T5
clones and they list the ratios - you may be able to use that info to zero in
on a particular box.

In the spirit of transparancy, I'm also looking at this conversion so I'll
def. keep you posted on whatever I find.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 22 14:22:41 2014
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From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 16:24:11 -0500
References: <1162453797.8756371.1419205316847.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
 <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1412220718140.14019@isis.mit.edu>
To: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
Cc: "team, FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] T5  conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Who makes a bell housing adaptor?  Does the crank have to modified for the
input shaft bushing?  I assume (uh oh) that clutch/PP can be adapted to the
wet sleeve crank?  My curiosity has been piqued.

Jim

Fat-thumbed from my iPhone

> On Dec 22, 2014, at 7:54 AM, "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm not an expert on this, so I'm totally open to ither comments on the
matter...
>
> My first comment would be that it's not clear that a T5 would give any
benefit other than being an inexpensive replacement. For most T5 setups, the
first gear is basically useless for road racing. Because of this, my first
suggestion would be to skip the T5 and think more seriously about a T10. I'm
suggesting this because you're more likely to find a good ratio mix in the
4-speed T10 and T10 knockoffs than with the T5 unless you want to not use
first.
>
> Also, I know we're talking current E Prod SCCA gearboxes here. That means
that you are limited to NON overdrive replacement trannies. Most of the ratio
sets for the T5 that I've seen are 1:1, so that's working in your favor.
>
> That said, all the "successful" Triumph racing gears setups seem to be in
the following range:
>
> 1st   2nd   3rd    4th
> 2.20, 1.75, 1.25,   1
>
> The Dolly Sprint setup is:
> 2.19, 1.57, 1.23,   1
>
> In the T10 world, the T10 c/r sets are in the range:
> 2.20, 1.66, 1.31,   1
>
> If you want a usable first gear for road racing, you need to be closer to
2.0:1, the Kastner first was 1.88:1 - 2.20 is a bit too much gear to be really
usable in anything but the tightest corners...
>
> So, if you found a Muncie "Rock Crusher" aka M22 (I think), you'd be pretty
close to ideal gears, although 2nd is a tad too low compared to that 1.57
dolly gear. If you want, I could chart out the RPM ranges for you.
>
> Now here's the thing: T10's are replicated in NEW gearboxes from everyone,
but Summit Racing sells Richmond Gear T10 4-speeds for about $1800. If you
have more $$$ to spend, then you cannot go wrong with a Jericho and the ratios
that Kastner spec'd back in the day: 1.88, 1.42, 1.24 and 1 which I'm pretty
sure is what Sam H runs in his boxes (plus or minus) - and he can chime in on
that, if he wishes.
>
> The bottom line is that if you are looking for a junk-yard replacement, you
have to make some compromises in the gearing. From my research - that's pretty
much "toss first gear from the mix" if you road race.
>
> Note that wikipedia lists a lot of info on gear ratios for the B/W T5 and
T56, you might be able to use that to zero in on a donor.
>
> Last - there's lots of info out there, but Summit Racing lists the gear
ratios for all the different boxes they sell. They have a number of Richmond
Gear T5 clones and they list the ratios - you may be able to use that info to
zero in on a particular box.
>
> In the spirit of transparancy, I'm also looking at this conversion so I'll
def. keep you posted on whatever I find.
>
> Regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhassall@gmail.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 23 06:26:31 2014
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From: SpiwakD@aol.com
Full-name: SpiwakD
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2014 08:30:19 -0500
To: fot@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: [Fot] TR head cracks
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I need advice on repairing some cracks on a TR4 head between #2 and 3  
cylinders. Is it common and is it a real concern? Can it be  repaired?
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 23 07:56:39 2014
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Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2014 10:00:19 -0500 (EST)
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>
References: <1162453797.8756371.1419205316847.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
 <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1412220718140.14019@isis.mit.edu>
 <43EB2F68-ACD8-4092-A2A5-5D2F0E950969@gmail.com>
Cc: "team, FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] T5  conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

As far as I know, there is no crank mods needed for the T5 conversion. It 
looks like they supply an alternate pilot bushing for the kit.

You can read the installation instructions at:

www.dupontmachining.com

The neat thing about the T5 conversions is that the shifter location is 
aligned with the center of the case, so with the adapter included in the 
kit, you can locate the shift nob to very near the "proper" location of 
the stock shifter.

The "bad" thing is that a lot of the gear ratios are too production-like 
and therefore probably not suitable for a race car. There are aftermarket 
T5's with different gear ratios, though and some of these would be 
suitable for racing.

But, despite what SVRA allows, SCCA (where Rob runs, mostly) does NOT 
allow overdrive on alternate transmissions for the TR6 (and the TR3 and 4, 
for that matter). Tranny output must be 1:1 except for cars with the stock 
Laycock overdrive.

So, there are options out there, but for racing use and for strict 
legality, the options are a bit more limited.

For a high HP TR6, a 4-speed, close ratio box with a 3.70 or 3.45 rear end 
is probably the place where you want to be or with a 4.10 for hillclims 
and short tracks.

Just sayin.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 23 08:31:29 2014
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Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2014 10:19:42 -0500 (EST)
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>
References: <1162453797.8756371.1419205316847.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
 <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1412220718140.14019@isis.mit.edu>
 <43EB2F68-ACD8-4092-A2A5-5D2F0E950969@gmail.com>
Cc: "team, FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] T5  conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

Last point for now, then I'll shut up. If you look at the list of T5 ID 
numbers here:

http://www.britishv8.org/articles/borg-warner-t5-id-tags.htm

you'll see that there are lots of different ratios out there. If you limit 
to reasonable choices you'll see that the jump from 2nd to third is pretty 
large, hence my suggestion that they aren't ideal for racing. But you can 
limit your choices another way - stay away from the O/D 5th that's more 
than about .8 (for example, the .63 ratio 5th for the 84 Mustang / Capri 
V8 is totally unsuitable for a Triumph)

Again, just IMHO.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 23 08:38:12 2014
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From: "Kenneth Knight" <kknight@klaenv.com>
To: "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2014 07:38:20 -0800
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Subject: [Fot] TR Bellhousing
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Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Good Morning:

 

There has been a good deal of interest in using alternative gearboxes for
racing.  The big problem has been finding a bellhousing to use as an adaptor
to the new gearbox of choice.

 

I have a chance to get at least 10 bellhousings for TR's (will mount to
TR-3/4, TR-250/6), more if there is a need, that would fit the engine yet be
undrilled (face milled flat) at the mounting flange for the transmission.
These are all US made aluminum castings of very high quality and they should
be ready to ship in February of 2015.  We are working to get final machining
prices but anticipate a cost of $400.00 + shipping.

 

A note.  This is a DIY (you and a good machinist) project that is going to
take some engineering to adapt your transmission of choice.  It has been
done and is being raced, but it is not as easy as drilling the mounting
holes on a home drill press.  You will need access to a milling machine and
someone who knows how to set up the project.

 

I am starting list so send me an email.  I need to have a final count to see
if this is feasible by January 1.

 

Cheers to All, Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas!

 

Ken

3DR
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Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2014 10:13:27 -0600
To: SpiwakD@aol.com,fot@autox.team.net
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <bd182.4bb3c51e.41cac86b@aol.com>
 {sentby:smtp auth 173.31.234.34 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Cc: rikrock@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Crack between the two water passages between 2 and 3 is common and 
can be ignored.  It's not a sealing surface.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 07:30 AM 12/23/2014, SpiwakD@aol.com wrote:
>I need advice on repairing some cracks on a TR4 head between #2 and 3
>cylinders. Is it common and is it a real concern? Can it be  repaired?
>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 23 15:28:22 2014
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From: Rich <rikrock@live.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2014 16:51:51 -0500
To: "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[9FA19B10:01D01EFA]
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

This is not the "usual" situation.  There are two cracks which have grown to
the point they are on the edge of the sealing area.

I can send a picture...

Rich Rock
________________________________
From: Tony Drews
Sent: 12/23/2014 11:44 AM
To: SpiwakD@aol.com; fot@autox.team.net
Cc: rikrock@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks

Crack between the two water passages between 2 and 3 is common and
can be ignored.  It's not a sealing surface.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 07:30 AM 12/23/2014, SpiwakD@aol.com wrote:
>I need advice on repairing some cracks on a TR4 head between #2 and 3
>cylinders. Is it common and is it a real concern? Can it be  repaired?
>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 23 19:09:09 2014
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Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2014 19:12:20 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.10; rv:31.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/31.3.0
To: fot@autox.team.net
References: <SNT404-EAS341F5432C9927F78408603DC6570@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/23/14 2:51 PM, Rich wrote:
> This is not the "usual" situation.  There are two cracks which have grown to
> the point they are on the edge of the sealing area.
>

You can always see if they can pin the head for you.

TeriAnn
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 23 21:37:13 2014
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References: <SNT404-EAS341F5432C9927F78408603DC6570@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2014 23:30:33 -0500
From: John Styduhar <johnstydo@gmail.com>
To: Rich <rikrock@live.com>
Cc: "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Rich, how much did you have the head milled down?

On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 4:51 PM, Rich <rikrock@live.com> wrote:

> This is not the "usual" situation.  There are two cracks which have grown
> to
> the point they are on the edge of the sealing area.
>
> I can send a picture...
>
> Rich Rock
> ________________________________
> From: Tony Drews
> Sent: 12/23/2014 11:44 AM
> To: SpiwakD@aol.com; fot@autox.team.net
> Cc: rikrock@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
>
> Crack between the two water passages between 2 and 3 is common and
> can be ignored.  It's not a sealing surface.
>
> Cheers, Tony Drews
>
> At 07:30 AM 12/23/2014, SpiwakD@aol.com wrote:
> >I need advice on repairing some cracks on a TR4 head between #2 and 3
> >cylinders. Is it common and is it a real concern? Can it be  repaired?
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot@autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rikrock@live.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 24 04:07:55 2014
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From: "Marcel Van Mulders" <van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be>
To: <SpiwakD@aol.com>
References: <bd182.4bb3c51e.41cac86b@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 12:10:35 +0100
Thread-Index: AdAetKl5vvIW1NGWQFu4IixAwQIKugAtD9Qw
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Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
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Maybe the cracks will not grow further because the sealing area is at the
combustion chamber wall? If you assemble the engine you will see white
exhaust smoke when the cracks are growing into the combustion chamber.
Repairing would mean : welding the crack after heating the head (6000C?),
without guarantee of success.
Marcel
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens SpiwakD@aol.com
Verzonden: dinsdag 23 december 2014 14:30
Aan: fot@autox.team.net
CC: rikrock@aol.com
Onderwerp: [Fot] TR head cracks

I need advice on repairing some cracks on a TR4 head between #2 and 3
cylinders. Is it common and is it a real concern? Can it be  repaired?
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 24 04:45:38 2014
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References: <bd182.4bb3c51e.41cac86b@aol.com>
 <8115D9C163CA4D87976942B775A1E299@GebruikerPC>
From: TR4 Tony <tr4.tony@virgin.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 11:28:13 +0000
To: Marcel Van Mulders <van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be>
Cc: "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

All

Have we not got a head that's getting to the point that it's not worth a
repair - new cast iron heads are available and very good indeed. Used heads
are still around.

I'd be loathe to throw the same amount of money at a marginal head that I
would at sorting a good used one or indeed twice that for a new one. Most of
the repair techniques will deal with small issues but this sounds like it's
significant, even in this location which normally isn't such a big deal.

Regards

Tony

Sent from my iPhone

> On 24 Dec 2014, at 11:10, "Marcel Van Mulders"
<van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be> wrote:
>
> Maybe the cracks will not grow further because the sealing area is at the
> combustion chamber wall? If you assemble the engine you will see white
> exhaust smoke when the cracks are growing into the combustion chamber.
> Repairing would mean : welding the crack after heating the head (6000C?),
> without guarantee of success.
> Marcel
> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
> Van: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens SpiwakD@aol.com
> Verzonden: dinsdag 23 december 2014 14:30
> Aan: fot@autox.team.net
> CC: rikrock@aol.com
> Onderwerp: [Fot] TR head cracks
>
> I need advice on repairing some cracks on a TR4 head between #2 and 3
> cylinders. Is it common and is it a real concern? Can it be  repaired?
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 24 04:53:28 2014
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From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <SNT404-EAS341F5432C9927F78408603DC6570@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 12:53:24 +0100
Thread-Index: AdAfJu9vT3hFG5nxTY6KQfpzCmTGrAASRl6g
Content-Language: de
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

You can stop the crack with a hole at its end and solder the crack with
silver solder.
Seems to work fine with a good success rate.

Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 24 10:04:46 2014
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References: <SNT404-EAS341F5432C9927F78408603DC6570@phx.gbl>
 <CAMJWJcEJcpqEyUQKi+Fzga2A-yTouS3K203+=TRtpJ5GxZ4M5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <205C3DBD-DD81-4DC3-8689-954E62F72D51@mhc-law.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 12:05:09 -0500
From: John Styduhar <johnstydo@gmail.com>
To: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>, "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph"
 <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks about
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

You all may want to consider contacting Scott Harper, the owner of Team
Triumph in Warren, OH. Scott specializes in British car recycling and has
bare cylinder heads at a reasonable price, many of which have been cleaned
and maged. Scott's number is 330-392-7176. Scott usually takes off between
Xmas and New Years so a call today would be advised if you need to make
quick contact. Have a great Xmas.

On Wed, Dec 24, 2014 at 9:20 AM, John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com> wrote:

> John....give him the name of the guy you told us about who has heads
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Dec 24, 2014, at 1:10 AM, "John Styduhar" <johnstydo@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > Rich, how much did you have the head milled down?
> >
> >> On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 4:51 PM, Rich <rikrock@live.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> This is not the "usual" situation.  There are two cracks which have
> grown
> >> to
> >> the point they are on the edge of the sealing area.
> >>
> >> I can send a picture...
> >>
> >> Rich Rock
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Tony Drews
> >> Sent: 12/23/2014 11:44 AM
> >> To: SpiwakD@aol.com; fot@autox.team.net
> >> Cc: rikrock@aol.com
> >> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
> >>
> >> Crack between the two water passages between 2 and 3 is common and
> >> can be ignored.  It's not a sealing surface.
> >>
> >> Cheers, Tony Drews
> >>
> >> At 07:30 AM 12/23/2014, SpiwakD@aol.com wrote:
> >>> I need advice on repairing some cracks on a TR4 head between #2 and 3
> >>> cylinders. Is it common and is it a real concern? Can it be  repaired?
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> fot@autox.team.net
> >>>
> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com
> >>>
> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> fot@autox.team.net
> >>
> >> http://www.fot-racing.com
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rikrock@live.com
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> fot@autox.team.net
> >>
> >> http://www.fot-racing.com
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo@gmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot@autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty@mhc-law.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 24 10:28:29 2014
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Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 11:27:56 -0600
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <SNT404-EAS341F5432C9927F78408603DC6570@phx.gbl>
 <001a01d01f70$39eb6230$adc22690$@com>
 {sentby:smtp auth 173.31.224.109 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I received a picture of the head - the crack is to the point where if 
it grows any further there will be definite sealing issues on #2 and 
probably #3.  I like this suggestion - a hole to stop the propagation 
and silver solder to seal it back up.  I'll have to remember that one!

When I went through the "cracked head" issue (mine wasn't 
repairable), someone suggested "stitching" which is a series of 
threaded plugs run through the crack.  That's the only other fix that 
comes to mind.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 05:53 AM 12/24/2014, MadMarx wrote:
>You can stop the crack with a hole at its end and solder the crack with
>silver solder.
>Seems to work fine with a good success rate.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 24 11:08:20 2014
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Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 13:03:52 -0500
From: Doug Mitchell <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>
To: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>, Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

You might check into an old-school technique of cold stitching. Not sure if it works on a head, but have seen it done on blocks. Not cheap and intensive work, but it can recover a block.


Doug
dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
Sent from my mobile phone

-------- Original message --------
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com> 
Date: 12/24/2014  12:27 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: fot@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks 
 
I received a picture of the head - the crack is to the point where if 
it grows any further there will be definite sealing issues on #2 and 
probably #3.B  I like this suggestion - a hole to stop the propagation 
and silver solder to seal it back up.B  I'll have to remember that one!

When I went through the "cracked head" issue (mine wasn't 
repairable), someone suggested "stitching" which is a series of 
threaded plugs run through the crack.B  That's the only other fix that 
comes to mind.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 05:53 AM 12/24/2014, MadMarx wrote:
>You can stop the crack with a hole at its end and solder the crack with
>silver solder.
>Seems to work fine with a good success rate.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 24 11:37:49 2014
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From: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.net>
Full-Name: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 18:34:34 GMT
To: 19to1tr6@comcast.net
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] T5  conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Rob, I think it will depend on whose conversion kit that you use.  There are
differences with input shaft lengths.  I made my own conversion and used a T5
from a 1995 6 cylinder mustang, which has a longer input shaft than the V8s.
I use a Tilton clutch and use clutch discs to match the spline.  I also
changed the 5th gear to be a closer ratio, since the stock ones are made for
highway cruising.  Joe

---------- Original Message ----------
From: 19to1tr6@comcast.net
To: "team, FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] T5  conversion
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 23:41:56 +0000 (UTC)

hello I am consideringB  making the T5 conversion and with so many different
T5s B can anyone suggest the easiest one to work with. This is going into a
TR6B B  thanksB B  Rob


____________________________________________________________
Apple&#39;s Crazy New Gizmo
Forget the iPhone 6. Next hit Apple product leaked. &#40;see picture&#41;
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/549b0779a017b779605cst01duc
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 13:07:56 -0600
From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>,  "FOT@autox.team.net"
 <FOT@autox.team.net>
References: <1162453797.8756371.1419205316847.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
 <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1412220718140.14019@isis.mit.edu>
 <43EB2F68-ACD8-4092-A2A5-5D2F0E950969@gmail.com>
 <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1412231004030.19818@isis.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: [Fot] T5  conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

It should be mentioned that some groups don't allow a 5-speed (e.g. 
CVAR).  The jump from 2nd to 3rd is one reason I switched from a 3.7 
close ratio to a 4.55 close ratio with overdrive.  With the later setup 
3rd replaces 2nd, 4th replace 3rd and 4th-OD replaces 4th. The jumps in 
the top three gears are about 20 percent.  It seems that with most of 
the tracks I ran on, I needed 2 gears for most of the track with perhaps 
a higher gear needed on the longest straight or a lower gear in the 
tightest corner.  I remember one time when I lost a throw out bearing at 
Hallett.  I lost only about a second using just 3rd and 3rd OD. I know 
an overdrive is "old school", but you get some good ratios and the 
satisfaction of knowing you a truly vintage. I seldom had trouble with mine.
  - Larry

On 12/23/2014 9:19 AM, Robert M. Lang wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Last point for now, then I'll shut up. If you look at the list of T5 
> ID numbers here:
>
> http://www.britishv8.org/articles/borg-warner-t5-id-tags.htm
>
> you'll see that there are lots of different ratios out there. If you 
> limit to reasonable choices you'll see that the jump from 2nd to third 
> is pretty large, hence my suggestion that they aren't ideal for 
> racing. But you can limit your choices another way - stay away from 
> the O/D 5th that's more than about .8 (for example, the .63 ratio 5th 
> for the 84 Mustang / Capri V8 is totally unsuitable for a Triumph)
>
> Again, just IMHO.
>
> Regards,
> rml
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: michael <mlcooknj@msn.com>
To: Doug Mitchell <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>, Tony Drews
 <tony@tonydrews.com>, "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 14:23:00 -0500
References: <kjqqc8sn7ywuc1nhr4v5oa3x.1419444232635@email.android.com>
 FILETIME=[083A4A00:01D01FAF]
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Years ago, I remember taking a TR3 head to a place in Long Island City, New
York called Cool Weld.  Using a process called "cold welding" they patched a
combustion chamber. This wasn't a crack, it was a hole but it worked on cracks
as well.

That was my back-up head and it worked fine for several races and also for the
guy who bought the car.

Mike Cook

> Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 13:03:52 -0500
> From: dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> To: tony@tonydrews.com; fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
>
> You might check into an old-school technique of cold stitching. Not sure if
it works on a head, but have seen it done on blocks. Not cheap and intensive
work, but it can recover a block.
>
>
> Doug
> dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> Sent from my mobile phone
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
> Date: 12/24/2014  12:27 PM  (GMT-05:00)
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
>
> I received a picture of the head - the crack is to the point where if
> it grows any further there will be definite sealing issues on #2 and
> probably #3.B  I like this suggestion - a hole to stop the propagation
> and silver solder to seal it back up.B  I'll have to remember that one!
>
> When I went through the "cracked head" issue (mine wasn't
> repairable), someone suggested "stitching" which is a series of
> threaded plugs run through the crack.B  That's the only other fix that
> comes to mind.
>
> Cheers, Tony Drews
>
> At 05:53 AM 12/24/2014, MadMarx wrote:
> >You can stop the crack with a hole at its end and solder the crack with
> >silver solder.
> >Seems to work fine with a good success rate.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot@autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 24 13:23:39 2014
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References: <kjqqc8sn7ywuc1nhr4v5oa3x.1419444232635@email.android.com>
From: "J. Wagner" <jmwagner@greenheart.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 11:51:46 -0800
To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

The topic intrigued me, so I did some googling.  Seems there's a lot of ideas
out there.  This one seemed good.  (I have no experience with them...knock on
wood.)   --Justin

Cast Iron Crack repair
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4ZaKk&sns=em


http://www.locknstitch.com/metal_stitching.htm




> On Dec 24, 2014, at 10:03 AM, Doug Mitchell <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> You might check into an old-school technique of cold stitching. Not sure if
it works on a head, but have seen it done on blocks. Not cheap and intensive
work, but it can recover a block.
>
>
> Doug
> dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> Sent from my mobile phone
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
> Date: 12/24/2014  12:27 PM  (GMT-05:00)
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
>
> I received a picture of the head - the crack is to the point where if
> it grows any further there will be definite sealing issues on #2 and
> probably #3.B  I like this suggestion - a hole to stop the propagation
> and silver solder to seal it back up.B  I'll have to remember that one!
>
> When I went through the "cracked head" issue (mine wasn't
> repairable), someone suggested "stitching" which is a series of
> threaded plugs run through the crack.B  That's the only other fix that
> comes to mind.
>
> Cheers, Tony Drews
>
> At 05:53 AM 12/24/2014, MadMarx wrote:
>> You can stop the crack with a hole at its end and solder the crack with
>> silver solder.
>> Seems to work fine with a good success rate.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Chris
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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>
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Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 20:49:32 +0000 (UTC)
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl@yahoo.com>
To: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>,  "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <20141224172724.D94072585140@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I have unfortunately hadB experience with stitching a head.B  My first TR4
race motor had a stitched head (the guy who built itB repaired the head and
did notB tell me).B  It seems that with the added stress of a higher
compression race engine at high revsB the head flexed and caused blown head
gaskets.B  It might be OK to stitch a head on a street motor buy my experience
was not good on a race motor.B  I had a geyser squirting out of the
overflowB bottle.
Mike MehlB 
B       From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
 To: fot@autox.team.net
 Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 9:27 AM
 Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks

I received a picture of the head - the crack is to the point where if
it grows any further there will be definite sealing issues on #2 and
probably #3.B  I like this suggestion - a hole to stop the propagation
and silver solder to seal it back up.B  I'll have to remember that one!

When I went through the "cracked head" issue (mine wasn't
repairable), someone suggested "stitching" which is a series of
threaded plugs run through the crack.B  That's the only other fix that
comes to mind.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 05:53 AM 12/24/2014, MadMarx wrote:
>You can stop the crack with a hole at its end and solder the crack with
>silver solder.
>Seems to work fine with a good success rate.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com


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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 24 15:07:33 2014
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From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <SNT407-EAS820E5181332275C7889DDBC6540@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 23:01:33 +0100
Thread-Index: AdAfifSx1BizqE2/S1SO86l1pocuFQAOvJzA
Content-Language: de
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Ah,

seen the cracks.

These are on the edge of being too late for rescue.

The only thing which might cure is staking the head as Kas Kastner shown in
his books and to put one screw just on the end of this crack.

But getting a new head is okay too.



Cheers

Chris



Von: Rich [mailto:rikrock@live.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 24. Dezember 2014 15:58
An: MadMarx
Betreff: RE: [Fot] TR head cracks



Chris,

Wasn't sure if you had seen the cracks...

Rich

  _____

From: MadMarx
Sent: 12/24/2014 6:58 AM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks

You can stop the crack with a hole at its end and solder the crack with
silver solder.
Seems to work fine with a good success rate.

Cheers
Chris
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 24 16:30:15 2014
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From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 18:23:42 -0500
 a=/SXGE5kDesdBB+LWuquHZQ==:117 a=/SXGE5kDesdBB+LWuquHZQ==:17
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Subject: [Fot] Wanted
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Ibm looking for a TR3, 4 or 4A narrow belt crank pulley for a project that
Ibm working on. Damaged is OK as itbs just being used for a mock up.
Anyone have one theybd be willing to dispose of?
Jerry Van Vlack
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From: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>
To: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
Thread-Topic: [Fot] T5  conversion
Thread-Index: AQHQH6zsV6RQdJPnT62hmbRyoG/r7ZyfcOot
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2014 00:17:13 +0000
References: <1162453797.8756371.1419205316847.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
 <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1412220718140.14019@isis.mit.edu>
 <43EB2F68-ACD8-4092-A2A5-5D2F0E950969@gmail.com>
 <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1412231004030.19818@isis.mit.edu>, <549B0F0C.3030308@pobox.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
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  a=VR8QHrWKYhK80xkEBGCjUg==]
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  a=mfbrCa-fAAAA:8]
  a=Vvz4s5HzVxXfIIAWahAA:]
Cc: "FOT@autox.team.net" <FOT@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] T5  conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Neat!  I agree having run Larry's car for 4 years now, but not being able to
find syncros that work are costing me at least a second or two a lap.  This
makes a T5 really appealing

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 24, 2014, at 3:34 PM, "Larry Young" <cartravel@pobox.com> wrote:
>
> It should be mentioned that some groups don't allow a 5-speed (e.g. CVAR).
The jump from 2nd to 3rd is one reason I switched from a 3.7 close ratio to a
4.55 close ratio with overdrive.  With the later setup 3rd replaces 2nd, 4th
replace 3rd and 4th-OD replaces 4th. The jumps in the top three gears are
about 20 percent.  It seems that with most of the tracks I ran on, I needed 2
gears for most of the track with perhaps a higher gear needed on the longest
straight or a lower gear in the tightest corner.  I remember one time when I
lost a throw out bearing at Hallett.  I lost only about a second using just
3rd and 3rd OD. I know an overdrive is "old school", but you get some good
ratios and the satisfaction of knowing you a truly vintage. I seldom had
trouble with mine.
> - Larry
>
>> On 12/23/2014 9:19 AM, Robert M. Lang wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> Last point for now, then I'll shut up. If you look at the list of T5 ID
numbers here:
>>
>> http://www.britishv8.org/articles/borg-warner-t5-id-tags.htm
>>
>> you'll see that there are lots of different ratios out there. If you limit
to reasonable choices you'll see that the jump from 2nd to third is pretty
large, hence my suggestion that they aren't ideal for racing. But you can
limit your choices another way - stay away from the O/D 5th that's more than
about .8 (for example, the .63 ratio 5th for the 84 Mustang / Capri V8 is
totally unsuitable for a Triumph)
>>
>> Again, just IMHO.
>>
>> Regards,
>> rml
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 24 18:49:03 2014
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Try Scott Harper - Team Triumph.   I had a few but sent them to Mike with #46
Bruce
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Van Vlack
<jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Dec 24, 2014
7:12 pm
Subject: [Fot] Wanted


Ibm looking for a TR3, 4 or 4A narrow belt
crank pulley for a project that
Ibm working on. Damaged is OK as itbs just
being used for a mock up.
Anyone have one theybd be willing to dispose of?
Jerry Van Vlack
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 24 21:20:01 2014
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Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 21:18:24 -0700
References: <549B2AC7.1070005@porterscustom.com>
To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, fot
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Subject: Re: [Fot] [TR] Greetings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Happy Holidays

For the action video:

http://s1162.photobucket.com/user/levi3451/media/Triumph%20Christmas%20Decora
tion/IMG_0302_zps99314ac5.mp4.html?sort=3&o=0

1969 Triumph Spitfire MK III




Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) and Christmas Ornament
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 25 11:47:31 2014
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Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2014 00:38:54 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: fot@autox.team.net
References: <bd182.4bb3c51e.41cac86b@aol.com>
 <8115D9C163CA4D87976942B775A1E299@GebruikerPC>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
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Marcel Van Mulders wrote:

> Repairing would mean : welding the crack after heating the head (6000C?),
> without guarantee of success.

Heating the head to 6,000 degrees C  would certainly not guarantee success.

Off to California for Christmas, hope the server doesn't blow up while I'm gone.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 25 13:38:15 2014
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From: "n. cal" <klynch_6@msn.com>
To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2014 13:11:26 -0700
 FILETIME=[F6B6FD20:01D0207E]
Subject: [Fot] 12/25
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Before I head out I thought I'd wish everyone a safe, Merry Christmas. And a
memorable,
productive  New Year !!

Kev Lynch
#6 RMVR
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 25 14:15:16 2014
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To: "'n. cal'" <klynch_6@msn.com>, "'FOT'" <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU178-W3767796924C14736B1F4D1B7550@phx.gbl>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2014 12:59:22 -0800
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Thanks Kev..Merry Christmas to all!!
Racer Bud in Sonoma, Ca.

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of n. cal
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2014 12:11 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] 12/25

Before I head out I thought I'd wish everyone a safe, Merry Christmas. And a
memorable, productive  New Year !!

Kev Lynch
#6 RMVR
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars@comcast.net



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 04:51:40 2014
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From: "Marcel Van Mulders" <van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>
References: <bd182.4bb3c51e.41cac86b@aol.com>
 <8115D9C163CA4D87976942B775A1E299@GebruikerPC>
 <549BBF0E.3050804@bradakis.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 12:42:34 +0100
Thread-Index: AdAgiRZF3FOmZ2Q/TliyiuzLWvA7lAAdL9jA
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe I wrote 6000C, not 6000.
But on another subject : Cor Nuyts is a man near Antwerp who is famous for
his billet steel crankshafts and a lot of special engine parts for tractor
pulling etc.
He has over 100 different crankshafts in the database of a CNC machine i.e.
6cyl TR and 4 cyl TR with 92 and 96 mm stroke (I had a 96mm crank made by
him, but had to sell it on after I told it to the people of the TR
Competition before my first race there) Cor is 70 now and still hard
working. When he was in his twenties, he made succesfully a straight 8
Bugatti crankshaft on an ordinary lathe : it took most of the week-ends
during a year.
Recently, he machined a TR6 block for me to take 3600 Toyota crank thrust
bearings. The bearings couldn't be mounted however, he hadn't machined deep
enough. To avoid transport of the engine again, he milled the bearings 0.3mm
down. To do so, he placed the bearings on a flat magnetic plate to secure
them, and then the plate with the bearings went under a stone to mill them.
On the way home, I thought that this milling with parts on a magnetic plate
could also be used to make used brake pads flat again. I've used Kas
Kastner's method on a drill several times and this is working very well,
but, if you have gathered a lot of partially used brake pads over several
years, milling these on such a machine could be an elegant alternative. What
do you think?
Marcel

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens Mark J Bradakis
Verzonden: donderdag 25 december 2014 8:39
Aan: fot@autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks

Marcel Van Mulders wrote:

> Repairing would mean : welding the crack after heating the head
> (6000C?), without guarantee of success.

Heating the head to 6,000 degrees C  would certainly not guarantee success.

Off to California for Christmas, hope the server doesn't blow up while I'm
gone.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 05:29:08 2014
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From: "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31@verizon.net>
To: "Marcel Van Mulders" <van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be>, "'Mark J
 Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>
References: <bd182.4bb3c51e.41cac86b@aol.com>
 <8115D9C163CA4D87976942B775A1E299@GebruikerPC>
 <549BBF0E.3050804@bradakis.com>
 <521B90FCD12F431CAFE677D853DC7146@GebruikerPC>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 07:30:00 -0500
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,  I use a surface grinder with a magnetic chuck to true my brake pads. 
Works great.
Cheers, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marcel Van Mulders" <van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 26, 2014 6:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks


>I believe I wrote 6000C, not 6000.
> But on another subject : Cor Nuyts is a man near Antwerp who is famous for
> his billet steel crankshafts and a lot of special engine parts for tractor
> pulling etc.
> He has over 100 different crankshafts in the database of a CNC machine 
> i.e.
> 6cyl TR and 4 cyl TR with 92 and 96 mm stroke (I had a 96mm crank made by
> him, but had to sell it on after I told it to the people of the TR
> Competition before my first race there) Cor is 70 now and still hard
> working. When he was in his twenties, he made succesfully a straight 8
> Bugatti crankshaft on an ordinary lathe : it took most of the week-ends
> during a year.
> Recently, he machined a TR6 block for me to take 3600 Toyota crank thrust
> bearings. The bearings couldn't be mounted however, he hadn't machined 
> deep
> enough. To avoid transport of the engine again, he milled the bearings 
> 0.3mm
> down. To do so, he placed the bearings on a flat magnetic plate to secure
> them, and then the plate with the bearings went under a stone to mill 
> them.
> On the way home, I thought that this milling with parts on a magnetic 
> plate
> could also be used to make used brake pads flat again. I've used Kas
> Kastner's method on a drill several times and this is working very well,
> but, if you have gathered a lot of partially used brake pads over several
> years, milling these on such a machine could be an elegant alternative. 
> What
> do you think?
> Marcel
>
> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
> Van: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens Mark J Bradakis
> Verzonden: donderdag 25 december 2014 8:39
> Aan: fot@autox.team.net
> Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
>
> Marcel Van Mulders wrote:
>
>> Repairing would mean : welding the crack after heating the head
>> (6000C?), without guarantee of success.
>
> Heating the head to 6,000 degrees C  would certainly not guarantee 
> success.
>
> Off to California for Christmas, hope the server doesn't blow up while I'm
> gone.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be
> _______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 05:30:13 2014
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From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <bd182.4bb3c51e.41cac86b@aol.com>
 <8115D9C163CA4D87976942B775A1E299@GebruikerPC>
 <549BBF0E.3050804@bradakis.com>
 <521B90FCD12F431CAFE677D853DC7146@GebruikerPC>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 13:30:17 +0100
Thread-Index: AdAgiRZF3FOmZ2Q/TliyiuzLWvA7lAAdL9jAAAIiMfA=
Content-Language: de
Subject: [Fot] Holley tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys,

hope you survived the first part of the end of year party zone.

I have a question about Holley carbs.

While racing the TR8 on a few events I figured out that throttle blips on
down shifts cause a hesitation on the engine.
This makes it difficult to engage the clutch without locking the rear
wheels.
If I step a little harder on the gas the engine is jumping too far up in
revs so the car is acceleration on the downshift, what I don't want in that
moment.
Acceleration is always great and smooth. Only when the engine comes down
from high revs and need a blip for down shift the hesitation comes.

What to do on the carb?
Making the accelerator squirt less or more?
It is a 4150 HP double pumper. The cam color is pink in position 1.
Injektor size is 31 or 34 which is not clearly readable.
Could also be that injector one is 31 and injector 2 is 34.
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 07:32:08 2014
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Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 06:10:09 -0800
From: Rick Parent <rick.parent@att.net>
To: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>, "fot@autox.team.net"
 <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Holley tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

That,s an easy one, 


You have way to much fuel for your little 215!!!!!

The easiest fix is to remove the secondary lever that has the pump cam on it. Remove the phillips screw that is in the end of the secondary shaft, use a flat blade screw driver and pry it off, problem solved! This is a common fix, you will also notice your car will accelerate better every time you get back on the gas hard, like while shifting or coming off a corner.

Hope this helps, Rick



On Friday, December 26, 2014 7:34 AM, MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com> wrote:
 


Hi Guys,

hope you survived the first part of the end of year party zone.

I have a question about Holley carbs.

While racing the TR8 on a few events I figured out that throttle blips on
down shifts cause a hesitation on the engine.
This makes it difficult to engage the clutch without locking the rear
wheels.
If I step a little harder on the gas the engine is jumping too far up in
revs so the car is acceleration on the downshift, what I don't want in that
moment.
Acceleration is always great and smooth. Only when the engine comes down
from high revs and need a blip for down shift the hesitation comes.

What to do on the carb?
Making the accelerator squirt less or more?
It is a 4150 HP double pumper. The cam color is pink in position 1.
Injektor size is 31 or 34 which is not clearly readable.
Could also be that injector one is 31 and injector 2 is 34.

_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 07:44:36 2014
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From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: "'Rick Parent'" <rick.parent@att.net>, <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <bd182.4bb3c51e.41cac86b@aol.com>
 <8115D9C163CA4D87976942B775A1E299@GebruikerPC>
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Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 15:39:20 +0100
Thread-Index: AdAhFanEcsJ60qADTxe2BGFKEaGybAAAyH0Q
Content-Language: de
Subject: Re: [Fot] Holley tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Rick,



I tried that already  by accident.

When I had removed the floats to change the jets to a larger size (was 4x71
at RA last year and now it is 2x73 and 2x77) I left by accident the lever of
the rear secondary float disengaged, so I ran only with the front
accelerator pump.

The engine was running very lean at RA and also on the first race at Spa.
Now I have an AF between 13  13.5



It was no difference fellable with only one accelerator pump. And the
hesitation was still there.

Maybe changing the front one to a smaller size and leaving the rear as it
is?



Cheers

Chris



Von: Rick Parent [mailto:rick.parent@att.net]
Gesendet: Freitag, 26. Dezember 2014 15:10
An: MadMarx; fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Holley tuning



That,s an easy one,



You have way to much fuel for your little 215!!!!!



The easiest fix is to remove the secondary lever that has the pump cam on
it. Remove the phillips screw that is in the end of the secondary shaft, use
a flat blade screw driver and pry it off, problem solved! This is a common
fix, you will also notice your car will accelerate better every time you get
back on the gas hard, like while shifting or coming off a corner.



Hope this helps, Rick



On Friday, December 26, 2014 7:34 AM, MadMarx <



Hi Guys,

hope you survived the first part of the end of year party zone.

I have a question about Holley carbs.

While racing the TR8 on a few events I figured out that throttle blips on
down shifts cause a hesitation on the engine.
This makes it difficult to engage the clutch without locking the rear
wheels.
If I step a little harder on the gas the engine is jumping too far up in
revs so the car is acceleration on the downshift, what I don't want in that
moment.
Acceleration is always great and smooth. Only when the engine comes down
from high revs and need a blip for down shift the hesitation comes.

What to do on the carb?
Making the accelerator squirt less or more?
It is a 4150 HP double pumper. The cam color is pink in position 1.
Injektor size is 31 or 34 which is not clearly readable.
Could also be that injector one is 31 and injector 2 is 34.


_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/>

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent@att.net
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 11:23:55 2014
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Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 12:17:57 -0600
From: Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>
References: <1162453797.8756371.1419205316847.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
 <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1412220718140.14019@isis.mit.edu>
 <43EB2F68-ACD8-4092-A2A5-5D2F0E950969@gmail.com>
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Cc: "FOT@autox.team.net" <FOT@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] T5  conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I have seen the Dolomite Sprint gearset ratios frequently stated as 
2.19,  1.57, 1.23, 1.00.   I counted : 26,29,33,33 on the main shaft and 
31,28,25,16 on the counter shaft.  Unless I'm mistaken, that gives 2.46 
for 1st. I see that Quantum agrees - 
http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/triumph1.htm.
  - Larry
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 11:59:02 2014
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From: "J. Wagner" <jmwagner@greenheart.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 10:58:55 -0800
To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Happy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Happy Boxing Day!
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 15:21:19 2014
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From: Kas Kastner <kaskastner@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 14:12:11 -0800
To: Marcel Van Mulders <van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be>
Cc: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I had used a mill for the first try on the brake pad mod so save a used set
of pads, but later thought that I really should get that abrasive material
around my very nice accurate mill, so then went to the dumbbell drill
press..

*Never be beaten by equipment.*

On Fri, Dec 26, 2014 at 3:42 AM, Marcel Van Mulders <
van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be> wrote:

> I believe I wrote 6000C, not 6000.
> But on another subject : Cor Nuyts is a man near Antwerp who is famous for
> his billet steel crankshafts and a lot of special engine parts for tractor
> pulling etc.
> He has over 100 different crankshafts in the database of a CNC machine i.e.
> 6cyl TR and 4 cyl TR with 92 and 96 mm stroke (I had a 96mm crank made by
> him, but had to sell it on after I told it to the people of the TR
> Competition before my first race there) Cor is 70 now and still hard
> working. When he was in his twenties, he made succesfully a straight 8
> Bugatti crankshaft on an ordinary lathe : it took most of the week-ends
> during a year.
> Recently, he machined a TR6 block for me to take 3600 Toyota crank thrust
> bearings. The bearings couldn't be mounted however, he hadn't machined deep
> enough. To avoid transport of the engine again, he milled the bearings
> 0.3mm
> down. To do so, he placed the bearings on a flat magnetic plate to secure
> them, and then the plate with the bearings went under a stone to mill them.
> On the way home, I thought that this milling with parts on a magnetic plate
> could also be used to make used brake pads flat again. I've used Kas
> Kastner's method on a drill several times and this is working very well,
> but, if you have gathered a lot of partially used brake pads over several
> years, milling these on such a machine could be an elegant alternative.
> What
> do you think?
> Marcel
>
> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
> Van: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens Mark J Bradakis
> Verzonden: donderdag 25 december 2014 8:39
> Aan: fot@autox.team.net
> Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
>
> Marcel Van Mulders wrote:
>
> > Repairing would mean : welding the crack after heating the head
> > (6000C?), without guarantee of success.
>
> Heating the head to 6,000 degrees C  would certainly not guarantee success.
>
> Off to California for Christmas, hope the server doesn't blow up while I'm
> gone.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 17:01:05 2014
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From: Rich <rikrock@live.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 18:40:41 -0500
To: "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[4467EF20:01D02165]
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions!

Here's the plan for repair:

First, the head will get magnafluxed to determine if it has any other cracks.
If the head passes that test, the repair to the two troubling cracks will be
done by "stitching".

My  machinist has a fair amount of experience with this process which involves
drilling and tapping a series of holes along the centerline of the entire
crack.  This will be done one at a time, starting with the end closest to the
combustion chamber.

The hole gets tapped using a special tap similar to a pipe thread tap and the
special (cast iron) tapered bolt gets threaded in and cut off near the head
surface, to be made even with the surface when the final machining is done.

The holes get drilled so that each successive bolt has some contact with the
preceding bolt near the head surface, and each bolt gets coated with a special
epoxy before being threaded in.

Wherever possible, the bolts will be installed so that they bottom out, and
act as "stakes" just as Kas details in his book.  Additional stakes will also
be installed away from the crack in an effort to stop any further collapse of
this already thin (shaved about .150") head  in this area and hopefully add
even more stability to the repair.

We'll see how it turns out.

Thanks again,

Rich Rock
________________________________
From: michael
Sent: 12/24/2014 3:39 PM
To: Doug Mitchell; Tony Drews; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks

Years ago, I remember taking a TR3 head to a place in Long Island City, New
York called Cool Weld.  Using a process called "cold welding" they patched a
combustion chamber. This wasn't a crack, it was a hole but it worked on
cracks
as well.

That was my back-up head and it worked fine for several races and also for
the
guy who bought the car.

Mike Cook

> Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 13:03:52 -0500
> From: dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> To: tony@tonydrews.com; fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
>
> You might check into an old-school technique of cold stitching. Not sure if
it works on a head, but have seen it done on blocks. Not cheap and intensive
work, but it can recover a block.
>
>
> Doug
> dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> Sent from my mobile phone
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
> Date: 12/24/2014  12:27 PM  (GMT-05:00)
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
>
> I received a picture of the head - the crack is to the point where if
> it grows any further there will be definite sealing issues on #2 and
> probably #3.B  I like this suggestion - a hole to stop the propagation
> and silver solder to seal it back up.B  I'll have to remember that one!
>
> When I went through the "cracked head" issue (mine wasn't
> repairable), someone suggested "stitching" which is a series of
> threaded plugs run through the crack.B  That's the only other fix that
> comes to mind.
>
> Cheers, Tony Drews
>
> At 05:53 AM 12/24/2014, MadMarx wrote:
> >You can stop the crack with a hole at its end and solder the crack with
> >silver solder.
> >Seems to work fine with a good success rate.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot@autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 18:10:30 2014
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References: <SNT407-EAS14755589E95DB992E11B3FAC6520@phx.gbl>
From: Kas Kastner <kaskastner@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 17:04:54 -0800
To: Rich <rikrock@live.com>
Cc: "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I had this type of repair completed on a head and also a block for the 1967
GT-6, the first in he country that I was working with without too much
success.  That pair of castings went on to live throughout the work.  The
repair is GOOD.

*Never be beaten by equipment.*

On Fri, Dec 26, 2014 at 3:40 PM, Rich <rikrock@live.com> wrote:

> Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions!
>
> Here's the plan for repair:
>
> First, the head will get magnafluxed to determine if it has any other
> cracks.
> If the head passes that test, the repair to the two troubling cracks will
> be
> done by "stitching".
>
> My  machinist has a fair amount of experience with this process which
> involves
> drilling and tapping a series of holes along the centerline of the entire
> crack.  This will be done one at a time, starting with the end closest to
> the
> combustion chamber.
>
> The hole gets tapped using a special tap similar to a pipe thread tap and
> the
> special (cast iron) tapered bolt gets threaded in and cut off near the head
> surface, to be made even with the surface when the final machining is done.
>
> The holes get drilled so that each successive bolt has some contact with
> the
> preceding bolt near the head surface, and each bolt gets coated with a
> special
> epoxy before being threaded in.
>
> Wherever possible, the bolts will be installed so that they bottom out, and
> act as "stakes" just as Kas details in his book.  Additional stakes will
> also
> be installed away from the crack in an effort to stop any further collapse
> of
> this already thin (shaved about .150") head  in this area and hopefully add
> even more stability to the repair.
>
> We'll see how it turns out.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Rich Rock
> ________________________________
> From: michael
> Sent: 12/24/2014 3:39 PM
> To: Doug Mitchell; Tony Drews; fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
>
> Years ago, I remember taking a TR3 head to a place in Long Island City, New
> York called Cool Weld.  Using a process called "cold welding" they patched
> a
> combustion chamber. This wasn't a crack, it was a hole but it worked on
> cracks
> as well.
>
> That was my back-up head and it worked fine for several races and also for
> the
> guy who bought the car.
>
> Mike Cook
>
> > Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 13:03:52 -0500
> > From: dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> > To: tony@tonydrews.com; fot@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
> >
> > You might check into an old-school technique of cold stitching. Not sure
> if
> it works on a head, but have seen it done on blocks. Not cheap and
> intensive
> work, but it can recover a block.
> >
> >
> > Doug
> > dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> > Sent from my mobile phone
> >
> > -------- Original message --------
> > From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
> > Date: 12/24/2014  12:27 PM  (GMT-05:00)
> > To: fot@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR head cracks
> >
> > I received a picture of the head - the crack is to the point where if
> > it grows any further there will be definite sealing issues on #2 and
> > probably #3.B  I like this suggestion - a hole to stop the propagation
> > and silver solder to seal it back up.B  I'll have to remember that one!
> >
> > When I went through the "cracked head" issue (mine wasn't
> > repairable), someone suggested "stitching" which is a series of
> > threaded plugs run through the crack.B  That's the only other fix that
> > comes to mind.
> >
> > Cheers, Tony Drews
> >
> > At 05:53 AM 12/24/2014, MadMarx wrote:
> > >You can stop the crack with a hole at its end and solder the crack with
> > >silver solder.
> > >Seems to work fine with a good success rate.
> > >
> > >Cheers
> > >Chris
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >fot@autox.team.net
> > >
> > >http://www.fot-racing.com
> > >
> > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot@autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot@autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mlcooknj@msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 26 18:57:14 2014
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From: Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
To: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 18:48:50 -0700
 FILETIME=[4385A040:01D02177]
Subject: [Fot] Stock TR250 Air Cleaner wanted
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

If anyone might happen to have one floating around their garage they want to
send to a good home.

Happy New Year,

Henry Morrison, Cedar Crest, NM
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 27 18:20:57 2014
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From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2014 20:07:30 -0500
To: FOT team <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Iron or sew-on patches
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I want to buy another patch but don 'to recall from whom I purchased them
previously.

Haaaaalp!

Jim
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 27 19:00:22 2014
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From: Andrew Packard <apackard68@att.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2014 17:54:50 -0800
References: <B3A465D1-B281-4E61-9A6E-DCE6CFC77585@gmail.com>
To: J.C. Hassall <jhassall@gmail.com>
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Iron or sew-on patches
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I have the patches.  They're $5 each plus $1 to ship.
Either paypal to apackard68@att.net or mail to 56 Hagen Oaks Ct, Alamo, CA
94507.  Be sure to include your address.

There are about 30 patches left if others want any.  Proceeds are benefitting
our TR4 Lemons car project.

Andy Packard


On Dec 27, 2014, at 5:07 PM, J.C. Hassall wrote:

> I want to buy another patch but don 'to recall from whom I purchased them
> previously.
>
> Haaaaalp!
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68@att.net
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 28 09:17:27 2014
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Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2014 11:17:51 -0500
From: Bob Davis <rdavis4@cfl.rr.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.10; rv:31.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/31.3.0
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR3 race car for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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All,

I have decided to sell my TR3 race car and am offering it to the list 
prior to listing  on the other avenues. It is in an unfinished state at 
about 85% completed. The intended final outcome was to be a recreation 
of the TR3 raced at Sebring in 1957 by the factory.  This was a rust 
free California car. It was converted to a race car by a 
father/son/brother in the late 70's and raced with VARA. Couple of log 
books attest to the racing.

What is left to do:
     Body will need final fit and finish. All body work is done and cut 
in with final factory race color of Winchester blue.
     Race wiring (does have a new stock harness but not really suited 
for racing)
     Roll bar (has the original single hoop)
     Gauges of your choice
     Carbs. SU in good shape but disassembled for a rebuild. Shafts 
still tight.

It has all the best parts installed in the engine, suspension and 
driveline. Everything is rebuilt. I have a build list for those that are 
interested. I have quite a few build photos.

A partial list:
     Carillo rods
     Venolia 86mm pistons
     Roller rockers
     Pertronixs
     Single wire Denso alternator
     All engine parts cryo treated
     Center main cap strapped
     Southwick axles
     Aluminum Scirocco style radiator
     Steel factory hardtop w/all new rubber and mounting parts and a 
good rear plexi (factory raced with the hardtop)
     Panasport wheels
     Light custom steel flywheel (British Parts Northwest for a picture)
     Crank drilled for 6 bolts
     Aircraft grade hardware throughout
     New 4.11 R&P
     New Quaife diff
     Drilled and slotted rotors
     Uprated front spindles
     TR6 front suspension
     Polyurethane bushings
     TR6 calipers with stainless pistons
     Alfin drums
     Custom dual master brake cylinder set up
     10 gallon fuel cell
     Aeroquip plumbing
     Bottom of car is as clean as the top
     Cunifer brake lines

List goes on and on with a spare frame and many spare new wear items 
left over from previous TR race cars. The whole lot needs to go. Bring a 
trailer......

$13,000 or offer considered.

Bob Davis
407 509 6714
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 04:43:25 2014
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From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 12:44:34 +0100
Thread-Index: AdAhbAxIqDrNLkfWQDCuAL7oru8kjgDgsEOAAAATnpA=
Content-Language: de
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi @ all,

hope you are getting well to the next year.

My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some of
the them do leak.
Is there any trick to seal them?
I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not to
destroy them.

Is there a seal missing in those connectors?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg

Just an example what I mean for the system.

Cheers
Chris 
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 05:58:20 2014
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From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <001001d024ef$27362d30$75a28790$@com>
 <54A3E991.4020508@gmail.com> <001101d024f6$631f1300$295d3900$@com>
 <54A3EE6F.8010700@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 13:56:12 +0100
Thread-Index: AdAk9snNHiLCeh9yTqmghpk2chBHNQAAlNPg
Content-Language: de
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Found this on the web:

https://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Torque_Spec_Aluminum_Fittings.pdf



-----UrsprC<ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Duncan Charlton [mailto:duncan.charlton54@gmail.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2014 13:39
An: MadMarx
Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

Chris,

Were you able to find torque figures for tightening them?  If they are clean
and new, tightened to the proper spec, they may be faulty.  I have used them
in my fuel system, where the low viscosity and surface tension of gasoline
would surely find the slightest gap in the seal.

Duncan

On 12/31/14, 6:36 AM, MadMarx wrote:
> Hi Duncan,
>
> that is my understanding, that these connectors should be self sealing.
> But even with the taper surfaces in new condition they seem to let oil
through.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
>
> -----UrsprC<ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Duncan Charlton [mailto:duncan.charlton54@gmail.com]
> Gesendet: Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2014 13:18
> An: MadMarx
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
>
> Chris,
> No seal should be required.  The tapers should seat against each other.
> Perhaps they've been assembled and disassembled enough times that the mating
surfaces are damaged.  The design is intended to produce a metal-to-metal
contact on the tapers, and the threads are not expected to seal.  You might
disassemble the leakers to see if the tapers look damaged.
>
> Duncan
> (Texas)
>
>
> On 12/31/14, 5:44 AM, MadMarx wrote:
>> Hi @ all,
>>
>> hope you are getting well to the next year.
>>
>> My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and
>> some of the them do leak.
>> Is there any trick to seal them?
>> I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more
>> not to destroy them.
>>
>> Is there a seal missing in those connectors?
>>
>> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg
>>
>> Just an example what I mean for the system.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Chris
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 07:57:03 -0500
From: Doug Mitchell <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>
To: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>, Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris,
These are called AN fittings.B From my experience, they are very reliable and don't leak if they are in good condition. In your photo, the left end has a slight taper and is a pipe fitting. It should be wrapped with Teflon tape. The other end should _not_ be wrapped. I have seen these used on test engines an dynomometer stands for many hours with no leaks.


Doug
dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
Sent from my mobile phone

-------- Original message --------
From: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com> 
Date: 12/31/2014  6:44 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: fot@autox.team.net 
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors 
 
Hi @ all,

hope you are getting well to the next year.

My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some of
the them do leak.
Is there any trick to seal them?
I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not to
destroy them.

Is there a seal missing in those connectors?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg

Just an example what I mean for the system.

Cheers
Chris 
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 06:28:21 2014
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References: <y7dq1424p66o2bl3h5ddk7xb.1420030623354@email.android.com>
From: Paul Ricco <paulricco@att.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 07:30:05 -0600
To: Doug Mitchell <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been working with the style of connectors you are referencing for many
years.  They are very reliable.  The best reference for tightening them and
installing hose of them is at Aeroquip's website and in their print catalog.
If you are going to do a lot of work with them, invest in the aluminum
wrenches and vise jaws.  It will keep them from getting beat up from assembly
and disassembly. You will need the adjustable wrench for some of the fittings,
because they are not full AN sized on both sides of some fittings.  If you
intend to build hoses, the assembly lube is a great investment. Pegasus is a
good source for the fittings and tools.  They have all sizes and
configurations.

Paul

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 31, 2014, at 6:57 AM, Doug Mitchell <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> Chris,
> These are called AN fittings.B From my experience, they are very reliable
and don't leak if they are in good condition. In your photo, the left end has
a slight taper and is a pipe fitting. It should be wrapped with Teflon tape.
The other end should _not_ be wrapped. I have seen these used on test engines
an dynomometer stands for many hours with no leaks.
>
>
> Doug
> dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> Sent from my mobile phone
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
> Date: 12/31/2014  6:44 AM  (GMT-05:00)
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
>
> Hi @ all,
>
> hope you are getting well to the next year.
>
> My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some of
> the them do leak.
> Is there any trick to seal them?
> I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not to
> destroy them.
>
> Is there a seal missing in those connectors?
>
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg
>
> Just an example what I mean for the system.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 06:43:31 2014
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From: "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31@verizon.net>
To: "Doug Mitchell" <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>, "MadMarx"
 <tr4racing@googlemail.com>,	"Fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <y7dq1424p66o2bl3h5ddk7xb.1420030623354@email.android.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 08:38:58 -0500
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, the male seating part of the fitting could possibly have a nick or 
scratch, hindering proper sealing. The same with the female connector on the 
hose. Most hose connectors can be taken apart and re-used.
I favor pipe dope over the teflon tape; I think it seals better and bits of 
teflon tape can wander off down the plumbing system. Just my preference or 
course.
The AN fittings don't need brute force when tightening. I wont swear to it, 
but excess tightening force could deform the fittings. Any thoughts?
Happy New Year to all. I hope the new year brings us all peace, happiness, 
and prosperity. And fun times with our old cars!
Cheers, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Doug Mitchell" <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>
To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>; "Fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors


> Chris,
> These are called AN fittings.B From my experience, they are very reliable 
> and don't leak if they are in good condition. In your photo, the left end 
> has a slight taper and is a pipe fitting. It should be wrapped with Teflon 
> tape. The other end should _not_ be wrapped. I have seen these used on 
> test engines an dynomometer stands for many hours with no leaks.
>
>
> Doug
> dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> Sent from my mobile phone
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
> Date: 12/31/2014  6:44 AM  (GMT-05:00)
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
>
> Hi @ all,
>
> hope you are getting well to the next year.
>
> My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some 
> of
> the them do leak.
> Is there any trick to seal them?
> I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not 
> to
> destroy them.
>
> Is there a seal missing in those connectors?
>
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg
>
> Just an example what I mean for the system.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 07:31:11 2014
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 08:17:04 -0600
To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>,<fot@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <001001d024ef$27362d30$75a28790$@com>
 {sentby:smtp auth 173.31.224.109 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

No seal needed on the taper / AN joint.  Normally are good sealing 
nicely reusable fittings.  But they are aluminum and if the sealing 
surface gets damaged would need to be replaced.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 05:44 AM 12/31/2014, MadMarx wrote:
>Hi @ all,
>
>hope you are getting well to the next year.
>
>My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some of
>the them do leak.
>Is there any trick to seal them?
>I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not to
>destroy them.
>
>Is there a seal missing in those connectors?
>
>http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg
>
>Just an example what I mean for the system.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 07:44:06 2014
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From: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
To: "'MadMarx'" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>, <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 07:24:45 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris,
Some fittings are made to use a rubber o-ring. My sandwich plate AN fittings
will leak without the o-rings, Is it the flared side that leaks or is it the
non-flared side ?
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 4:45 AM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

Hi @ all,

hope you are getting well to the next year.

My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some of
the them do leak.
Is there any trick to seal them?
I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not to
destroy them.

Is there a seal missing in those connectors?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg

Just an example what I mean for the system.

Cheers
Chris 
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
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From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: "'Tony Drews'" <tony@tonydrews.com>, <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <001001d024ef$27362d30$75a28790$@com>
 <54a4056c.45eb440a.33b6.34fcSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 15:28:11 +0100
Thread-Index: AdAlBHu/iikm8kG/SjithY+/eJg4DgAANLag
Content-Language: de
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

The connectors look like new.
I inspect them when I put the engine back together, I just wanted to make
sure in advance that I didn't do anything wrong with them or if anything is
missing.

Thanks
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony@tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2014 15:17
An: MadMarx; fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

No seal needed on the taper / AN joint.  Normally are good sealing nicely
reusable fittings.  But they are aluminum and if the sealing surface gets
damaged would need to be replaced.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 05:44 AM 12/31/2014, MadMarx wrote:
>Hi @ all,
>
>hope you are getting well to the next year.
>
>My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and
>some of the them do leak.
>Is there any trick to seal them?
>I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more
>not to destroy them.
>
>Is there a seal missing in those connectors?
>
>http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg
>
>Just an example what I mean for the system.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
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From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: "'Jim Gray'" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>, <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <001001d024ef$27362d30$75a28790$@com>
 <54a4072b.01f7e50a.1ece.ffffd7f1SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 15:29:48 +0100
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Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

The oils seeps through the taper.
When I opened the packet with the connectors there were no o-rings supplied.
Is this an extra order?

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Jim Gray [mailto:toodamnfunky@comcast.net]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2014 15:25
An: 'MadMarx'; fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

Chris,
Some fittings are made to use a rubber o-ring. My sandwich plate AN fittings
will leak without the o-rings, Is it the flared side that leaks or is it the
non-flared side ?
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 4:45 AM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

Hi @ all,

hope you are getting well to the next year.

My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some of
the them do leak.
Is there any trick to seal them?
I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not to
destroy them.

Is there a seal missing in those connectors?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg

Just an example what I mean for the system.

Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 08:29:54 2014
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From: SCOTT JANZEN <sjanzen@me.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 10:26:10 -0500
References: <001001d024ef$27362d30$75a28790$@com>
 <54a4072b.01f7e50a.1ece.ffffd7f1SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
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To: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
Cc: "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

There are no O-rings in AN fittings. The threaded sleeve that fits over the
braided line compresses it onto the fitting (self sealing on the "rubber" hose
liner), and the fitting-to- fitting metal seal is precision ground and a
tapered fit, and does not require an O-ring seal.  These fittings can be
disconnected and reconnected many, many times. If there is a leak, there is a
nick or cut in something.
If you are assembling a new braided line and fitting, the best way I've found
to cut the braided line is to wrap it tightly with electrical tape directly
adjacent to the cut line, and then use a circular power cut off saw to neatly
cut the line, as the braided sheath tends to easily unravel.

Sent from my mobile device

> On Dec 31, 2014, at 9:29 AM, MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com> wrote:
>
> The oils seeps through the taper.
> When I opened the packet with the connectors there were no o-rings
supplied.
> Is this an extra order?
>
> Chris
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Jim Gray [mailto:toodamnfunky@comcast.net]
> Gesendet: Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2014 15:25
> An: 'MadMarx'; fot@autox.team.net
> Betreff: RE: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
>
> Chris,
> Some fittings are made to use a rubber o-ring. My sandwich plate AN
fittings
> will leak without the o-rings, Is it the flared side that leaks or is it
the
> non-flared side ?
> jim g
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx
> Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 4:45 AM
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
>
> Hi @ all,
>
> hope you are getting well to the next year.
>
> My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some of
> the them do leak.
> Is there any trick to seal them?
> I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not to
> destroy them.
>
> Is there a seal missing in those connectors?
>
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg
>
> Just an example what I mean for the system.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen@me.com
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 08:44:00 2014
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From: Diesel Performance Parts - Info <info@dieselperformanceparts.com>
To: 'MadMarx' <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 09:38:52 -0600
Thread-Topic: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Thread-Index: AdAhbAxIqDrNLkfWQDCuAL7oru8kjgDgsEOAAAATnpAABYjcIAAAM//gAAI9pjA=
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Cc: "'fot@autox.team.net'" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I bet since they are new they are not galling but at the same time I have had
them sort of hang up when tightening them. Drop a drop of the same oil you use
in the engine on the threads and also in the inside of the fittings where they
spin on themselves to seal. Not the 37 degree angle of the fitting where they
seal but back inside where the cap and or nut spins on the fitting. That keeps
them from trying to bind when you tighten them and if you have the correct
fitting mating with the correct matching male/female ends they will not leak.

What brand fittings are these???  Are you sure they are the correct ends to
mate together as there are other degree of angle ends other than the common 37
degree ones we all typically use. If you got some different ones mixed
together they will leak.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 8:30 AM
To: 'Jim Gray'; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

The oils seeps through the taper.
When I opened the packet with the connectors there were no o-rings supplied.
Is this an extra order?

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Jim Gray [mailto:toodamnfunky@comcast.net]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2014 15:25
An: 'MadMarx'; fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

Chris,
Some fittings are made to use a rubber o-ring. My sandwich plate AN fittings
will leak without the o-rings, Is it the flared side that leaks or is it the
non-flared side ?
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 4:45 AM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

Hi @ all,

hope you are getting well to the next year.

My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some of
the them do leak.
Is there any trick to seal them?
I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not to
destroy them.

Is there a seal missing in those connectors?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg

Just an example what I mean for the system.

Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky@comcast.net
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/info@dieselperformanceparts.com
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 08:59:44 2014
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 09:03:39 -0700
From: Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.3.0
To: Diesel Performance Parts - Info <info@dieselperformanceparts.com>, 
 'MadMarx' <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
References: <001001d024ef$27362d30$75a28790$@com>
 <54a4072b.01f7e50a.1ece.ffffd7f1SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
 <002301d02506$3c9bcf60$b5d36e20$@com>
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Cc: "'fot@autox.team.net'" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/31/2014 8:38 AM, Diesel Performance Parts - Info wrote:
>
> What brand fittings are these???  Are you sure they are the correct ends to
> mate together as there are other degree of angle ends other than the common 37
> degree ones we all typically use. If you got some different ones mixed
> together they will leak.
>
>
Just for Chris' reference, there are two primary standards in the U.S. 
for such fittings.  JIC, which is a 37 deg. fitting (typically used on 
hydraulic equipment and aircraft), and SAE, which is 45 deg (mostly 
production automotive use).  Mixing the two will not give the proper 
interference fit to form a good seal, as Mark notes above.



Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....
_______________________________________________
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 09:29:03 2014
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 16:24:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: toodamnfunky@comcast.net
To: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: TR4 lifter source
Thread-Index: 3McRpIgNehJWWdhzAKIZdjaXzQsPVw==
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Subject: [Fot] TR4 lifter source
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Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm beginning an engine rebuild and Ken G is out of " good" lifters. BPNW has
lifters and claim they test every batch. This from their website.
Any feedback on lifters would be appreciated.
Jim g
B 

These are Heavy Duty Tappets (lifter) for a Triumph TR3, Triumph TR4, Triumph
TR4A. They are lightened and have an extra oil drilled in the side for extra
lubrication. Every batch of tappets are tested when they arrive from the UK.
Each tappet will have a minimum hardness of Rockwell 54. The industry standard
is 50 for tappets. We have never had a bad batch of tappets like other
companies and never will because of our dedication to dealing with only
quality suppliers.
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 10:44:30 -0600
To: toodamnfunky@comcast.net,fot <fot@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
  t>
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Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 lifter source
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

We tested some from BPNW years ago and they were fine as far as 
hardness.  I run their lifters.  However I can't buy their 
"performance" onces because someone has decided to grind a bevel 
around the outside edge, reducing the diameter running against the 
cam.  If you run a cam that doesn't require full diameter those are 
OK too, though.

Tony Drews

At 10:24 AM 12/31/2014, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:
>I'm beginning an engine rebuild and Ken G is out of " good" lifters. BPNW has
>lifters and claim they test every batch. This from their website.
>Any feedback on lifters would be appreciated.
>Jim g
>B
>
>These are Heavy Duty Tappets (lifter) for a Triumph TR3, Triumph TR4, Triumph
>TR4A. They are lightened and have an extra oil drilled in the side for extra
>lubrication. Every batch of tappets are tested when they arrive from the UK.
>Each tappet will have a minimum hardness of Rockwell 54. The industry standard
>is 50 for tappets. We have never had a bad batch of tappets like other
>companies and never will because of our dedication to dealing with only
>quality suppliers.
>_______________________________________________
>fot@autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
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From: Tony and Annie Garmey <horizonracing@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 09:01:47 -0800
References: <1917349449.13301560.1420042393927.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
 <61250320.13310443.1420043074725.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
 <20141231164441.6182925855EC@autox.team.net>
To: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
 FILETIME=[7626E6B0:01D0251B]
Cc: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 lifter source
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Greg Solow has the only lifter to use .



> On Dec 31, 2014, at 8:48 AM, Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com> wrote:
>
> We tested some from BPNW years ago and they were fine as far as hardness.  I
run their lifters.  However I can't buy their "performance" onces because
someone has decided to grind a bevel around the outside edge, reducing the
diameter running against the cam.  If you run a cam that doesn't require full
diameter those are OK too, though.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 10:24 AM 12/31/2014, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:
>> I'm beginning an engine rebuild and Ken G is out of " good" lifters. BPNW
has
>> lifters and claim they test every batch. This from their website.
>> Any feedback on lifters would be appreciated.
>> Jim g
>> B
>>
>> These are Heavy Duty Tappets (lifter) for a Triumph TR3, Triumph TR4,
Triumph
>> TR4A. They are lightened and have an extra oil drilled in the side for
extra
>> lubrication. Every batch of tappets are tested when they arrive from the
UK.
>> Each tappet will have a minimum hardness of Rockwell 54. The industry
standard
>> is 50 for tappets. We have never had a bad batch of tappets like other
>> companies and never will because of our dedication to dealing with only
>> quality suppliers.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing@msn.com
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 10:17:04 2014
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From: John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com>
To: "toodamnfunky@comcast.net" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>, fot
 <fot@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: TR4 lifter source
Thread-Index: AdAlHN4yCku/WVYeShKwisr3r0pZsg==
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 17:08:54 +0000
References: <1917349449.13301560.1420042393927.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
 <61250320.13310443.1420043074725.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 lifter source
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

We have had good success with the ones made in Troy NC and sold by BF&E

John H. Hasty | MULLEN HOLLAND & COOPER P.A.
Attorney at Law
301 South York Street  (zip: 28052)
P.O. Box 488
Gastonia, NC 28053-0488
Telephone: 704.864.6751 | Facsimile: 704.861.8394
JHasty@mhc-law.com | www.mhc-law.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
toodamnfunky@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 11:25 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] TR4 lifter source

I'm beginning an engine rebuild and Ken G is out of " good" lifters. BPNW has
lifters and claim they test every batch. This from their website.
Any feedback on lifters would be appreciated.
Jim g
B

These are Heavy Duty Tappets (lifter) for a Triumph TR3, Triumph TR4, Triumph
TR4A. They are lightened and have an extra oil drilled in the side for extra
lubrication. Every batch of tappets are tested when they arrive from the UK.
Each tappet will have a minimum hardness of Rockwell 54. The industry standard
is 50 for tappets. We have never had a bad batch of tappets like other
companies and never will because of our dedication to dealing with only
quality suppliers.
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty@mhc-law.com
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 10:14:15 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.10; rv:31.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/31.3.0
To: fot@autox.team.net
References: <1917349449.13301560.1420042393927.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 lifter source
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/31/14 10:01 AM, Tony and Annie Garmey wrote:
> Greg Solow has the only lifter to use .
That is where I got mine.  Each lifter hardness tested.

TeriAnn
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From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: "'Diesel Performance Parts - Info'"
  <info@dieselperformanceparts.com>
References: <001001d024ef$27362d30$75a28790$@com>
 <54a4072b.01f7e50a.1ece.ffffd7f1SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 18:28:13 +0100
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Content-Language: de
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

The ones which do leak are from A-1 performance plumbing.
I also have some more bought of another brand which are seal and dust dry.

And with the dry sump tank sitting high a lot of oil is leaving the hoses
after a while.
Like a lake district.



-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Diesel Performance Parts - Info
[mailto:info@dieselperformanceparts.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2014 16:39
An: 'MadMarx'
Cc: 'fot@autox.team.net'
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

I bet since they are new they are not galling but at the same time I have
had them sort of hang up when tightening them. Drop a drop of the same oil
you use in the engine on the threads and also in the inside of the fittings
where they spin on themselves to seal. Not the 37 degree angle of the
fitting where they seal but back inside where the cap and or nut spins on
the fitting. That keeps them from trying to bind when you tighten them and
if you have the correct fitting mating with the correct matching male/female
ends they will not leak.

What brand fittings are these???  Are you sure they are the correct ends to
mate together as there are other degree of angle ends other than the common
37 degree ones we all typically use. If you got some different ones mixed
together they will leak.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 8:30 AM
To: 'Jim Gray'; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

The oils seeps through the taper.
When I opened the packet with the connectors there were no o-rings supplied.
Is this an extra order?

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Jim Gray [mailto:toodamnfunky@comcast.net]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2014 15:25
An: 'MadMarx'; fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

Chris,
Some fittings are made to use a rubber o-ring. My sandwich plate AN fittings
will leak without the o-rings, Is it the flared side that leaks or is it the
non-flared side ?
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 4:45 AM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

Hi @ all,

hope you are getting well to the next year.

My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some of
the them do leak.
Is there any trick to seal them?
I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not to
destroy them.

Is there a seal missing in those connectors?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg

Just an example what I mean for the system.

Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 12:29:24 2014
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From: "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard@msn.com>
To: "Tony Drews" <tony@tonydrews.com>, "Tony and Annie Garmey"
 <horizonracing@msn.com>
References: <1917349449.13301560.1420042393927.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 14:31:06 -0500
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Seal-Send-Time: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 14:31:06 -0500
 FILETIME=[524DE940:01D02530]
Cc: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 lifter source
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Indeed they are.



Terry Stetler


----- Original Message -----




Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 12:01 PM

Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 lifter source



Greg Solow has the only lifter to use .
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 12:45:27 2014
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From: "Rocky Entriken" <rocky@spitfire4.com>
To: "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31@verizon.net>, "Doug Mitchell"
 <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>, "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>, "Fot"
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References: <y7dq1424p66o2bl3h5ddk7xb.1420030623354@email.android.com>
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 13:47:35 -0600
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

With respect, I disagree with Bill on the pipe dope, which is a bitch to 
clean off completely when you need to (and can wander into the plumbing just 
as easily if done wrong).

Secret to Teflon tape, do not wrap the tape at the very last thread of the 
fitting (same for pipe dope if you prefer that). But upon disassembly, the 
tape is so much easier and cleaner to remove. I've also found if I need a 
fitting to point to 12 o'clock, but it points somewhere else when tight, an 
additional wrap of tape can adjust that easily.

BTW, proper AN fittings never need tape/dope. The angled seats do the 
sealing (I crank mine pretty tight, BTW. Also I have the aluminum wrenches, 
and to my non-engineer "feel" the handles seem to be made to just the right 
length/leverage to provide the correct fit from hand-tightening). Pipe 
threads always need the tape/dope.

The only leak issues I've experienced have always been with pipe thread 
fittings. Even with tape/dope. (Issues, that is, not directly attributable 
to it being a British car! :-)

--Rocky Entriken

. "There are only three true sports -- bullfighting, mountain climbing and 
motor racing. The rest are merely games." --Barnaby Conrad (NOT Hemingway)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31@verizon.net>
To: "Doug Mitchell" <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>; "MadMarx" 
<tr4racing@googlemail.com>; "Fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors


> Hi, the male seating part of the fitting could possibly have a nick or 
> scratch, hindering proper sealing. The same with the female connector on 
> the hose. Most hose connectors can be taken apart and re-used.
> I favor pipe dope over the teflon tape; I think it seals better and bits 
> of teflon tape can wander off down the plumbing system. Just my preference 
> or course.
> The AN fittings don't need brute force when tightening. I wont swear to 
> it, but excess tightening force could deform the fittings. Any thoughts?
> Happy New Year to all. I hope the new year brings us all peace, happiness, 
> and prosperity. And fun times with our old cars!
> Cheers, Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Doug Mitchell" <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>
> To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>; "Fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 7:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
>
>
>> Chris,
>> These are called AN fittings.B From my experience, they are very reliable 
>> and don't leak if they are in good condition. In your photo, the left end 
>> has a slight taper and is a pipe fitting. It should be wrapped with 
>> Teflon tape. The other end should _not_ be wrapped. I have seen these 
>> used on test engines an dynomometer stands for many hours with no leaks.
>>
>>
>> Doug
>> dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
>> Sent from my mobile phone
>>
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
>> Date: 12/31/2014  6:44 AM  (GMT-05:00)
>> To: fot@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
>>
>> Hi @ all,
>>
>> hope you are getting well to the next year.
>>
>> My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some 
>> of
>> the them do leak.
>> Is there any trick to seal them?
>> I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not 
>> to
>> destroy them.
>>
>> Is there a seal missing in those connectors?
>>
>> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg
>>
>> Just an example what I mean for the system.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Chris
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31@verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky@spitfire4.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 12:59:41 2014
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From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: "'Rocky Entriken'" <rocky@spitfire4.com>, "'Bill Tobin'"
 <william.tobin31@verizon.net>, "'Doug Mitchell'"
 <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>, "'Fot'" <fot@autox.team.net>
References: <y7dq1424p66o2bl3h5ddk7xb.1420030623354@email.android.com>
 <D715C575F96E44738E66A2BAFDF34825@hpd530>
 <8DC902F1C45F461D956989DFB4995EAA@rocky>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 20:51:23 +0100
Thread-Index: AdAlMlK2JTrPKXr4RNajijj+LU9TzwAAH6pQ
Content-Language: de
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe even American connector technology is helpless against the will of oil
to leave British engines :-)
Designed to drip as my father said....he had an engineering degree of
Cambridge on top of the German engineering degree.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Rocky Entriken [mailto:rocky@spitfire4.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2014 20:48
An: Bill Tobin; Doug Mitchell; MadMarx; Fot
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

With respect, I disagree with Bill on the pipe dope, which is a bitch to
clean off completely when you need to (and can wander into the plumbing just
as easily if done wrong).

Secret to Teflon tape, do not wrap the tape at the very last thread of the
fitting (same for pipe dope if you prefer that). But upon disassembly, the
tape is so much easier and cleaner to remove. I've also found if I need a
fitting to point to 12 o'clock, but it points somewhere else when tight, an
additional wrap of tape can adjust that easily.

BTW, proper AN fittings never need tape/dope. The angled seats do the
sealing (I crank mine pretty tight, BTW. Also I have the aluminum wrenches,
and to my non-engineer "feel" the handles seem to be made to just the right
length/leverage to provide the correct fit from hand-tightening). Pipe
threads always need the tape/dope.

The only leak issues I've experienced have always been with pipe thread
fittings. Even with tape/dope. (Issues, that is, not directly attributable
to it being a British car! :-)

--Rocky Entriken

. "There are only three true sports -- bullfighting, mountain climbing and
motor racing. The rest are merely games." --Barnaby Conrad (NOT Hemingway)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31@verizon.net>
To: "Doug Mitchell" <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>; "MadMarx"
<tr4racing@googlemail.com>; "Fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors


> Hi, the male seating part of the fitting could possibly have a nick or
> scratch, hindering proper sealing. The same with the female connector on
> the hose. Most hose connectors can be taken apart and re-used.
> I favor pipe dope over the teflon tape; I think it seals better and bits
> of teflon tape can wander off down the plumbing system. Just my preference

> or course.
> The AN fittings don't need brute force when tightening. I wont swear to
> it, but excess tightening force could deform the fittings. Any thoughts?
> Happy New Year to all. I hope the new year brings us all peace, happiness,

> and prosperity. And fun times with our old cars!
> Cheers, Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Mitchell" <dmitchel@sbcglobal.net>
> To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>; "Fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 7:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
>
>
>> Chris,
>> These are called AN fittings.B From my experience, they are very reliable

>> and don't leak if they are in good condition. In your photo, the left end

>> has a slight taper and is a pipe fitting. It should be wrapped with
>> Teflon tape. The other end should _not_ be wrapped. I have seen these
>> used on test engines an dynomometer stands for many hours with no leaks.
>>
>>
>> Doug
>> dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
>> Sent from my mobile phone
>>
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
>> Date: 12/31/2014  6:44 AM  (GMT-05:00)
>> To: fot@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
>>
>> Hi @ all,
>>
>> hope you are getting well to the next year.
>>
>> My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some
>> of
>> the them do leak.
>> Is there any trick to seal them?
>> I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not
>> to
>> destroy them.
>>
>> Is there a seal missing in those connectors?
>>
>> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg
>>
>> Just an example what I mean for the system.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Chris
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel@sbcglobal.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31@verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky@spitfire4.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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To: "toodamnfunky@comcast.net" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>,  fot
 <fot@autox.team.net>
From: Brian <britracer89@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 17:22:43 -0500
References: <1917349449.13301560.1420042393927.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
 <61250320.13310443.1420043074725.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 lifter source
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

I have BP Northwest tappets in my GT6 with the same cam for about 5 race
seasons. They are the HD set I believe is how they were advertised at the
time.   Not sure about the radiused edge. The cam is a race cam from Cambridge
Motorsport. All other parts I have purchased from BPNW have been good
quality.
Brian
Foster, RI

-----Original Message-----
From: "toodamnfunky@comcast.net" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
Sent: b12/b31/b2014 11:33 AM
To: "fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] TR4 lifter source

I'm beginning an engine rebuild and Ken G is out of " good" lifters. BPNW has
lifters and claim they test every batch. This from their website.
Any feedback on lifters would be appreciated.
Jim g
B

These are Heavy Duty Tappets (lifter) for a Triumph TR3, Triumph TR4, Triumph
TR4A. They are lightened and have an extra oil drilled in the side for extra
lubrication. Every batch of tappets are tested when they arrive from the UK.
Each tappet will have a minimum hardness of Rockwell 54. The industry
standard
is 50 for tappets. We have never had a bad batch of tappets like other
companies and never will because of our dedication to dealing with only
quality suppliers.
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britracer89@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 15:30:34 2014
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 17:22:02 -0500
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Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes AN flare fittings will absolutely NOT leak if properly fitted, and there
is no type of seal or sealer used.
Glen

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: SCOTT JANZEN <sjanzen@me.com>
To: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
Cc:
fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Dec 31, 2014 2:12 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot]
Aluminum connectors


There are no O-rings in AN fittings. The threaded sleeve
that fits over the
braided line compresses it onto the fitting (self sealing
on the "rubber" hose
liner), and the fitting-to- fitting metal seal is
precision ground and a
tapered fit, and does not require an O-ring seal.
These fittings can be
disconnected and reconnected many, many times. If there
is a leak, there is a
nick or cut in something.
If you are assembling a new
braided line and fitting, the best way I've found
to cut the braided line is
to wrap it tightly with electrical tape directly
adjacent to the cut line, and
then use a circular power cut off saw to neatly
cut the line, as the braided
sheath tends to easily unravel.

Sent from my mobile device

> On Dec 31,
2014, at 9:29 AM, MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com> wrote:
>
> The oils seeps
through the taper.
> When I opened the packet with the connectors there were
no o-rings
supplied.
> Is this an extra order?
>
> Chris
>
>
-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Jim Gray
[mailto:toodamnfunky@comcast.net]
> Gesendet: Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2014
15:25
> An: 'MadMarx'; fot@autox.team.net
> Betreff: RE: [Fot] Aluminum
connectors
>
> Chris,
> Some fittings are made to use a rubber o-ring. My
sandwich plate AN
fittings
> will leak without the o-rings, Is it the flared
side that leaks or is it
the
> non-flared side ?
> jim g
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
MadMarx
> Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 4:45 AM
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
>
> Hi @ all,
>
> hope you are getting
well to the next year.
>
> My car has many oil lines and also a lot of
aluminum connectors and some of
> the them do leak.
> Is there any trick to
seal them?
> I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten
more not to
> destroy them.
>
> Is there a seal missing in those connectors?
>
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg
>
> Just an example
what I mean for the system.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 15:59:15 2014
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From: "Peter Vucinic" <pvucinic@netspace.net.au>
To: "'MadMarx'" <tr4racing@googlemail.com>, "'Diesel Performance Parts -
 Info'" <info@dieselperformanceparts.com>
References: <001001d024ef$27362d30$75a28790$@com>
 <54a4072b.01f7e50a.1ece.ffffd7f1SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
 <002301d02506$3c9bcf60$b5d36e20$@com>
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Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2015 09:48:03 +1100
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Content-Language: en-au
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris,
If the other brands have remained dry? Sounds like the seats on the A-1
units are NOT uniform. Replace it. Only way to cure an issue with an
irregular seat etc. 

Cheers....


"You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With
A Lage Fortune!"
Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfir MkII
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

  

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Thursday, 1 January 2015 4:28 AM
To: 'Diesel Performance Parts - Info'
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

The ones which do leak are from A-1 performance plumbing.
I also have some more bought of another brand which are seal and dust dry.

And with the dry sump tank sitting high a lot of oil is leaving the hoses
after a while.
Like a lake district.



-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Diesel Performance Parts - Info
[mailto:info@dieselperformanceparts.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2014 16:39
An: 'MadMarx'
Cc: 'fot@autox.team.net'
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

I bet since they are new they are not galling but at the same time I have
had them sort of hang up when tightening them. Drop a drop of the same oil
you use in the engine on the threads and also in the inside of the fittings
where they spin on themselves to seal. Not the 37 degree angle of the
fitting where they seal but back inside where the cap and or nut spins on
the fitting. That keeps them from trying to bind when you tighten them and
if you have the correct fitting mating with the correct matching male/female
ends they will not leak.

What brand fittings are these???  Are you sure they are the correct ends to
mate together as there are other degree of angle ends other than the common
37 degree ones we all typically use. If you got some different ones mixed
together they will leak.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 8:30 AM
To: 'Jim Gray'; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

The oils seeps through the taper.
When I opened the packet with the connectors there were no o-rings supplied.
Is this an extra order?

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Jim Gray [mailto:toodamnfunky@comcast.net]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 31. Dezember 2014 15:25
An: 'MadMarx'; fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

Chris,
Some fittings are made to use a rubber o-ring. My sandwich plate AN fittings
will leak without the o-rings, Is it the flared side that leaks or is it the
non-flared side ?
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2014 4:45 AM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum connectors

Hi @ all,

hope you are getting well to the next year.

My car has many oil lines and also a lot of aluminum connectors and some of
the them do leak.
Is there any trick to seal them?
I think that I have tighten them enough and hesitate to tighten more not to
destroy them.

Is there a seal missing in those connectors?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41P918-F13L.jpg

Just an example what I mean for the system.

Cheers
Chris
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 17:14:54 2014
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To: "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
From: gasket.works@gte.net
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2015 00:08:40 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 cam followers Lifters..
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Several years ago I got fed up with available lifters.  So, I had them made with the help of other FoT members.  I asked one of our brilliant metallurgists what metal to use.  We decided on A2 tool steel.  Easy to design on CAD.  Made several sets.  Have used one set through many seasons. Different motors, cams and still look near new.  They rockwell tested near 62 - 63 if I recall.  Almost Mirror face finnish. Flat face. 

  Same thing with intake / exhaust gaskets (probably had 2000 made).

M
 

 
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
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From fot-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 31 17:59:45 2014
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 20:03:45 -0500
From: robert bownes <bownes@web9.com>
To: gasket.works@gte.net
Cc: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 cam followers Lifters..
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: fot-bounces@autox.team.net

Has anyone ever found a decent replacement lifter for the 6 cylinder
engines?



On Wed, Dec 31, 2014 at 7:08 PM, <gasket.works@gte.net> wrote:

> Several years ago I got fed up with available lifters.  So, I had them
> made with the help of other FoT members.  I asked one of our brilliant
> metallurgists what metal to use.  We decided on A2 tool steel.  Easy to
> design on CAD.  Made several sets.  Have used one set through many seasons.
> Different motors, cams and still look near new.  They rockwell tested near
> 62 - 63 if I recall.  Almost Mirror face finnish. Flat face.
>
>   Same thing with intake / exhaust gaskets (probably had 2000 made).
>
> M
>
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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