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From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor
 Cars.
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Looking at the pics more carefully, I just realized this was the long lost
Healey Trike prototype. The result of a hush-hush collaboration between the
Morgan Motor Co. and the Healey works, it was an attempt to combine the
torquey Healey six cylinder with the "entertaining" handling of the Moggie
three-wheeler.  The prototype had previously been thought destroyed when one
of the works apprentices attempted to maneuver it over an open mechanic's pit
for an oil change.  Unfortunately, the apprentice attempted to approach the
pit in reverse gear with predictable results.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Tue, 4/17/12, keith taylor <ktee20@gmail.com> wrote:

From: keith taylor <ktee20@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor
Cars.
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, April 17, 2012, 6:40 PM

The other half is in the background poor marketing in leaving it out of the
picture gallery  ...............The control head looks recoverable

Keith Taylor
WAMBERAL OZ
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 17 18:23:57 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Just acquired another Healey!
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Derek - CONGRATULATIONS!!!! another 100-Six  Does it happen to be a modified
Longbridge?????

jim


> Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:27:48 +0100
> From: derek.c.job@gmail.com
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Just acquired another Healey!
>
> Hi all.
>
> Today I took delivery of another Healey and just completed a great 120 mile
> drive home in it. Inevitably it's a 100-Six, however this one has a MkIII
> engine built by Jeremy Welch with a DWR8 fast road cam, Cosworth forged
> 84mm pistons and a few other tweeks. It's running on twin HD8's. It has a
> centre change box, with straight cut Tulip ratio gears, competition
> overdrive, and Quaife limited slip diff all put together by Hardy
> Engineering.
>
> It has an aluminium bonnet and boot and is Healey Blue with a white Works
> hard top. It's still running with points in the Dizzy hence my questions of
> yesterday. I'm planning on competing in the Healey Sprint and Hillclimb
> challenge and I'll post some photos of the car on my website as soon as I
> get chance.
>
> That means my other 100-Six is now for sale. It's a great car and also has
> a 3000 engine but not Mk111. It's in the UK and if anyone knows of someone
> looking for a good car please let me know. It's history can be seen here:
>
> http://www.healeysix.net/mynew100six.htm
>
> The new car is running strong and is pretty quick and the steering is as
> light as Ive driven in a Healey. it's running on Avon ZZs. It hasn't done
> many miles since the engine was built and only about a 1000 in the last
> year. It probably needs a bit of a tune up as it's a bit reluctant to idle.
> Anyone got experience of the DWR8 cam? Is that normal?
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 17 20:25:10 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor
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The rear end of the car was beautifully restored and was just sold on Ebay.



Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC

http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 17 20:55:27 2012
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 22:52:12 -0400
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Subject: [Healeys] eBay 100 Valve Cover
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Did anyone see the period finned aluminum 100 valve cover that just sold on
ebay?

Very rough condition with no filler cap or cover turned knobs.  Sold for
$1295.00!!!!

I have incredible docs on my Florida Green/OEW 100M, and just looked up the
receipt for the same one the original owner put on 1 month after purchased.

$23.95 Cash!  Gotta love it!!!!  :-)

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M  White/Black
'56 100 M  Florida Green/OEW
'55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (SOLD)
'62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M@gmail.com
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Wo.fee if the eBay buyer bid on one of Gary's $500.00 books?
Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

Coming Thursday on the Holocaust Memorial Day - WWW WW)WWW (Yom
HaShoah) we
will remember all who perished.
On Apr 17, 2012 7:52 PM, "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:

> Did anyone see the period finned aluminum 100 valve cover that just sold on
> ebay?
>
> Very rough condition with no filler cap or cover turned knobs.  Sold for
> $1295.00!!!!
>
> I have incredible docs on my Florida Green/OEW 100M, and just looked up the
> receipt for the same one the original owner put on 1 month after purchased.
>
> $23.95 Cash!  Gotta love it!!!!  :-)
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M  White/Black
> '56 100 M  Florida Green/OEW
> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans  (SOLD)
> '62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 17 21:45:37 2012
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From: "John Rowe" <jarowe@westnet.com.au>
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Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 vs BJ8 interior
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Hi Folks

I am away from home at present  and therefore missing my Healey reference
books.

Could someone remind me of the difference in the B pillar trim between a BJ7
and very early BJ8 and then a later BJ8 before the new chassis came in.

I'm presently considering my options and as I'm a tall fellow I'm trying to
get as much leg room as possible. I know it won't be a much as my BT7 but
every inch counts.

Regards

John Rowe
Perth
Aus

presently in steamy tropical Cairns.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 00:42:02 2012
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Cc: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Just acquired another Healey!
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Derek,

It should idle just as good as a standard engine. You do have to give it a
tune up.

Magnus Karlsson

www.concourshealeys.com

17 apr 2012 kl. 22:27 skrev Derek Job:

> Hi all.
>
> Today I took delivery of another Healey and just completed a great 120 mile
> drive home in it. Inevitably it's a 100-Six, however this one has a MkIII
> engine built by Jeremy Welch with a DWR8 fast road cam, Cosworth forged
> 84mm pistons and a few other tweeks. It's running on twin HD8's. It has a
> centre change box, with straight cut Tulip ratio gears, competition
> overdrive, and Quaife limited slip diff all put together by Hardy
> Engineering.
>
> It has an aluminium bonnet and boot and is Healey Blue with a white Works
> hard top. It's still running with points in the Dizzy hence my questions of
> yesterday. I'm planning on competing in the Healey Sprint and Hillclimb
> challenge and I'll post some photos of the car on my website as soon as I
> get chance.
>
> That means my other 100-Six is now for sale. It's a great car and also has
> a 3000 engine but not Mk111. It's in the UK and if anyone knows of someone
> looking for a good car please let me know. It's history can be seen here:
>
> http://www.healeysix.net/mynew100six.htm
>
> The new car is running strong and is pretty quick and the steering is as
> light as Ive driven in a Healey. it's running on Avon ZZs. It hasn't done
> many miles since the engine was built and only about a 1000 in the last
> year. It probably needs a bit of a tune up as it's a bit reluctant to idle.
> Anyone got experience of the DWR8 cam? Is that normal?
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Louisville
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Conclave Louisville is fast approaching 200 registrations with sixty days to
go!

Be number 200 and win a free Conclave Beer Stein!!

Visit http://www.2012conclave.com/ and register today!



Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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OK,,,,pi times radius squared times stroke times 6 = 3.141592653589793 x
(3.361/2)squared x 3.5 x 6 = 186.3143050975086 cu. in x 16.367064  =
3,049.418155646449 c.c. approx
-- 
Michael Salter

        Check My Blog
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 6:38 PM, EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com> wrote:

> I'm not bad on calculating until it gets to this. What would a 60 over
> bore on
> a 2912 cc engine result in in cc's(don't know where a decimal point or 00s
> go)
> ?
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http://bringatrailer.com/2012/04/17/bat-exclusive-41-years-parked-1960-austin
-healey-3000/#more-

A project for someone!

Randy
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] cc capacity
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I guess near enough is good enough
Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ



On 18 April 2012 22:21, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:

> OK,,,,pi times radius squared times stroke times 6 = 3.141592653589793 x
> (3.361/2)squared x 3.5 x 6 = 186.3143050975086 cu. in x 16.367064  =
> 3,049.418155646449 c.c. approx
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>        Check My Blog
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
>
> On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 6:38 PM, EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com> wrote:
>
> > I'm not bad on calculating until it gets to this. What would a 60 over
> > bore on
> > a 2912 cc engine result in in cc's(don't know where a decimal point or
> 00s
> > go)
> > ?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 16:35:38 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Vacuum advance (was Which electronic ignition?)
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Chris
I checked on my car, a standard 3000 mk2 with three HS4 carbs, and there 
is very little vacuum at idle, and when I give it some throttle it seems 
the vacuum goes away. As I recall, vacuum has been stronger on other 
cars I have checked.
You say that these vacuums are opposites of each other, I fail to 
understand this. Can you elaborate this a little, please.

As I understand it we need some ignition advance at idle, because the 
mix is weak and takes a long time to burn, this is accomplished with the 
vacuum advance. And we need a some advance at high revs because the 
pistons travel very fast and the spark must ignite the load some time 
(degrees) before TDC to make useful work, this is accomplished with the 
weights and springs. What we don't need is ignition advance at low 
engine speed and open throttle, because that will cause detonation and 
nasty things will eventually happen.
As the vacuum in my car is quite weak I wonder if the Healey distributor 
vacuum thing is more sensitive than on "normal" cars?

Best regards, Per in Sweden


Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-16 18:18:
> Fair call John.
> A Lucas healey distributor uses ported vacuum. Which is an SU thing. Vacuum is
> taken at the throttle plate. Not the inlet manifold.
> These  - ported vacuum and manifold vacuum - are exact opposite vacuums.
> Opposite.
> That's why you never connect a std Healey Lucas distributor vacuum advance to
> a manifold vacuum port on eg a triple weber Healey.
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Subject: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66
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For anyone living near old RT 66, the Dutch Healey Club has a group leaving 
Chicago Thursday morning heading for LA. The group consists of 11 Healeys, 8 
Morgans, 1 TR3 and 1 MGF. I have their schedule if anyone is interested in 
meeting or just seeing the group. The Chicago AHC hosted a reception for them 
last night. 


Just an FYI.
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 09:28:56 +1000
To: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vacuum advance (was Which electronic ignition?)
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Hi Per,
That's correct. Sort of. Healeys generally get all their advance at idle
mechanically, not by vacuum. Is your vacuum connected to the Su or manifold??
Not sure specifically about a tri carb setup.
Perhaps I should have said the difference is "opposite" at idle.
At the throttle plate, at idle, there is hardly any vacuum. That's "ported
vacuum" - and that's what a Healey distributor is generally set up for.
At the manifold however, at idle, there is pretty much full vacuum.
As I said before, the most common 6 Healey vacuum profile is 5 - 12 - 8
When mercury is raised 5 inches by vacuum, the vacuum advance starts, and by
the time mercury has been raised 12 inches, an additional 8 degrees of advance
will have been delivered.
So if you connect your distributor vacuum pipe to the manifold, instead of to
the SU, what will happen at idle??
You'll get an extra 8 degrees of advance. At idle. And what happens when you
give your engine an extra 8 degrees advance at idle? It doesn't idle very low,
and may even ping.
When you are cruising at 3,500 Rpm or whatever on light throttle, then there
is high vacuum at the SU port, the vacuum advance provides more advance to
fully burn the fuel = economy and smog reduction.
At full throttle, vacuum is almost equal at manifold and SU vacuum port i.e
low vacuum = no vacuum advance.
Part of the clue that a Healey doesn't want more ignition advance at idle is
that it doesn't even operate below 5.
I only used 5 - 12 - 8 as an example, as its common on Healeys  Look on your
vacuum advance to see what you have.
Hope that makes sense.
Best
Chris



Sent from my iPhone

On 19/04/2012, at 8:33 AM, Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net> wrote:

> Chris
> I checked on my car, a standard 3000 mk2 with three HS4 carbs, and there is
very little vacuum at idle, and when I give it some throttle it seems the
vacuum goes away. As I recall, vacuum has been stronger on other cars I have
checked.
> You say that these vacuums are opposites of each other, I fail to understand
this. Can you elaborate this a little, please.
>
>
> Best regards, Per in Sweden
>
>
> Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-16 18:18:
>> Fair call John.
>> A Lucas healey distributor uses ported vacuum. Which is an SU thing. Vacuum
is
>> taken at the throttle plate. Not the inlet manifold.
>> These  - ported vacuum and manifold vacuum - are exact opposite vacuums.
>> Opposite.
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 update
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I am very impressed with the metal work you have done to save some 
very rusted healeys!

BTW, I have a few buckets of rusted healey bolts, some rusted metal 
panels that I cut out along with some frame parts. They will all fit 
in a 4'x4'x4' box. I will send them to you so you can build another healey. :-)

Cheers,
John

At 06:05 PM 4/9/2012 +1000, Larry Varley wrote:
>Work is progressing on my BT7, so I have posted a few images on my 
>website. While the panels are away, I'm busily working out parts I 
>need, and preparing mechanical bits. Sandblaster at work is coming 
>in very handy................
>  http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/30002.html
>Cheers
>Larry Varley
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 19:15:16 2012
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Great idea!

I'll bet we have enough spare parts between us all to build at least one BNTJ124678-4/6/3000 MKX Phase 0  ('X' for 
Experimental, of course).

What's your address, Larry?

Bob


On 4/18/2012 4:50 PM, john spaur wrote:
> I am very impressed with the metal work you have done to save some very rusted healeys!
>
> BTW, I have a few buckets of rusted healey bolts, some rusted metal panels that I cut out along with some frame parts. 
> They will all fit in a 4'x4'x4' box. I will send them to you so you can build another healey. :-)
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> At 06:05 PM 4/9/2012 +1000, Larry Varley wrote:
>> Work is progressing on my BT7, so I have posted a few images on my website. While the panels are away, I'm busily 
>> working out parts I need, and preparing mechanical bits. Sandblaster at work is coming in very handy................
>>  http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/30002.html
>> Cheers
>> Larry Varley
>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
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Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we ordered?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 20:49:25 2012
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Hi Steve

One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago:

Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update

Cyril,

No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory
today and are coming to me.  Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping
them out.  Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to me.

Thank you for your patience through this endeavor!

Best,
Dan


Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz

 
-----Original Message----- 
From: Steve Shepherd 
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 11:28 AM 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS 

Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we ordered?
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 update
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Hi John, I'll take you up on that, just make sure you include the body 
number plates :) And Bob with a number like that ( I especially like the 
X at the end ) were talking a new all time record Healey auction price! 
Move over NOJ.
It does raise an interesting point, I bought this car for $2500.00 and 
it was basically complete. I could have spent $20,000.00 for a car and 
ended up throwing half of what I paid for in the bin anyway. At the 
$20,000.00 level I will have the remains and a brand new Kilmartin frame 
with the extra stiffening web in the centre of the rails, fitted with 
new bulkheads. If you have to replace the bottom quater of a mudguard, 
does it cost any more to replace the bottom half? Do I want a chassis in 
my car that is 50 years old that rusts from the inside out? What use is 
the old trim when your restoring a car? Is a half worn out engine less 
expensive to rebuild than a totally seized engine? One the down side on 
this car is the level of corrosion on mechanical components, I'll post 
some images soon, but it's quite amazing. Thankfully most of them are 
easy to get and not expensive.
Anyway, it's all good fun
Cheers
Larry

On 19/04/2012 9:50 AM, john spaur wrote:
> I am very impressed with the metal work you have done to save some 
> very rusted healeys!
>
> BTW, I have a few buckets of rusted healey bolts, some rusted metal 
> panels that I cut out along with some frame parts. They will all fit 
> in a 4'x4'x4' box. I will send them to you so you can build another 
> healey. :-)
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> At 06:05 PM 4/9/2012 +1000, Larry Varley wrote:
>> Work is progressing on my BT7, so I have posted a few images on my 
>> website. While the panels are away, I'm busily working out parts I 
>> need, and preparing mechanical bits. Sandblaster at work is coming in 
>> very handy................
>>  http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/30002.html
>> Cheers
>> Larry Varley
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Looks great Larry.  Given what you had to work with, you should have
converted this into a UTE!  Then you'd have something to haul the old
chassis to the dump.

Alan



On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 3:33 PM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> Hi John, I'll take you up on that, just make sure you include the body
> number plates :) And Bob with a number like that ( I especially like the X
> at the end ) were talking a new all time record Healey auction price! Move
> over NOJ.
> It does raise an interesting point, I bought this car for $2500.00 and it
> was basically complete. I could have spent $20,000.00 for a car and ended
> up throwing half of what I paid for in the bin anyway. At the $20,000.00
> level I will have the remains and a brand new Kilmartin frame with the
> extra stiffening web in the centre of the rails, fitted with new bulkheads.
> If you have to replace the bottom quater of a mudguard, does it cost any
> more to replace the bottom half? Do I want a chassis in my car that is 50
> years old that rusts from the inside out? What use is the old trim when
> your restoring a car? Is a half worn out engine less expensive to rebuild
> than a totally seized engine? One the down side on this car is the level of
> corrosion on mechanical components, I'll post some images soon, but it's
> quite amazing. Thankfully most of them are easy to get and not expensive.
> Anyway, it's all good fun
> Cheers
> Larry
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Subject: [Healeys] Tacho not working
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Hi all

Have an issue with the tacho on the car I'm selling. When I bought the car
2 years ago the tacho was working fine. I didn't get to spend much time
with the car but when I finally did I noticed the tacho cable was wrongly
routed which made it very tight and possibly stretching it. I re-routed the
cable and it was working fine.

About two months ago when I got the car to my house I noticed it was
sticking at 2000 revs sometimes at 3000, anyway not moving freely. I
checked all connections, lubricated and I tested it using a drill attached
the cable but that procedure never got it to move even a tiny bit. When I
reconnected it to the engine it did at least move but got stuck again.
Decided to buy a new cable assuming old one might have been damaged with
stretching etc. Connected it yesterday and nothing, not even the tiniest
movement. At least it moved with the old cable.

Any ideas? Is it time the tacho was serviced?

cheers

Derek
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 02:26:32 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tacho not working
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As long as mechanical tachs are operated frequently they seem to go on 
for ever. It is just when they are not in use that the oil starts 
gumming up and operation gets difficult as you describe. Time for a 
service. Sometimes you can get away by dipping it in an ultrasonic 
cleaning bath followed by lubrication with clock oil. If that fails a 
rebuild is at hand.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 19-4-2012 10:11, Derek Job schreef:
> Hi all
>
> Have an issue with the tacho on the car I'm selling. When I bought the car
> 2 years ago the tacho was working fine. I didn't get to spend much time
> with the car but when I finally did I noticed the tacho cable was wrongly
> routed which made it very tight and possibly stretching it. I re-routed the
> cable and it was working fine.
>
> About two months ago when I got the car to my house I noticed it was
> sticking at 2000 revs sometimes at 3000, anyway not moving freely. I
> checked all connections, lubricated and I tested it using a drill attached
> the cable but that procedure never got it to move even a tiny bit. When I
> reconnected it to the engine it did at least move but got stuck again.
> Decided to buy a new cable assuming old one might have been damaged with
> stretching etc. Connected it yesterday and nothing, not even the tiniest
> movement. At least it moved with the old cable.
>
> Any ideas? Is it time the tacho was serviced?
>
> cheers
>
> Derek
> _______________________________________________
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Bob, Excellent idea, however I have a ute :) And it hauls Healey parts 
quite successfully
http://www.redbubble.com/people/larryvarley/works/4046568-vanguard
http://www.redbubble.com/people/larryvarley/works/5688504-the-mechanic
Cheers
Larry

On 19/04/2012 5:58 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Looks great Larry.  Given what you had to work with, you should have 
> converted this into a UTE!  Then you'd have something to haul the old 
> chassis to the dump.
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 3:33 PM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au 
> <mailto:varley@cosmos.net.au>> wrote:
>
>     Hi John, I'll take you up on that, just make sure you include the
>     body number plates :) And Bob with a number like that ( I
>     especially like the X at the end ) were talking a new all time
>     record Healey auction price! Move over NOJ.
>     It does raise an interesting point, I bought this car for $2500.00
>     and it was basically complete. I could have spent $20,000.00 for a
>     car and ended up throwing half of what I paid for in the bin
>     anyway. At the $20,000.00 level I will have the remains and a
>     brand new Kilmartin frame with the extra stiffening web in the
>     centre of the rails, fitted with new bulkheads. If you have to
>     replace the bottom quater of a mudguard, does it cost any more to
>     replace the bottom half? Do I want a chassis in my car that is 50
>     years old that rusts from the inside out? What use is the old trim
>     when your restoring a car? Is a half worn out engine less
>     expensive to rebuild than a totally seized engine? One the down
>     side on this car is the level of corrosion on mechanical
>     components, I'll post some images soon, but it's quite amazing.
>     Thankfully most of them are easy to get and not expensive.
>     Anyway, it's all good fun
>     Cheers
>     Larry
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tacho not working
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Kees

Thats probably whats happened, the car has had only intermittant use in the
last two years and was stored from September to early march.

Derek

On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 9:26 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

>
> As long as mechanical tachs are operated frequently they seem to go on for
> ever. It is just when they are not in use that the oil starts gumming up
> and operation gets difficult as you describe. Time for a service. Sometimes
> you can get away by dipping it in an ultrasonic cleaning bath followed by
> lubrication with clock oil. If that fails a rebuild is at hand.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Op 19-4-2012 10:11, Derek Job schreef:
>
>> Hi all
>>
>> Have an issue with the tacho on the car I'm selling. When I bought the car
>> 2 years ago the tacho was working fine. I didn't get to spend much time
>> with the car but when I finally did I noticed the tacho cable was wrongly
>> routed which made it very tight and possibly stretching it. I re-routed
>> the
>> cable and it was working fine.
>>
>> About two months ago when I got the car to my house I noticed it was
>> sticking at 2000 revs sometimes at 3000, anyway not moving freely. I
>> checked all connections, lubricated and I tested it using a drill attached
>> the cable but that procedure never got it to move even a tiny bit. When I
>> reconnected it to the engine it did at least move but got stuck again.
>> Decided to buy a new cable assuming old one might have been damaged with
>> stretching etc. Connected it yesterday and nothing, not even the tiniest
>> movement. At least it moved with the old cable.
>>
>> Any ideas? Is it time the tacho was serviced?
>>
>> cheers
>>
>> Derek
>> ______________________________**_________________
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Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: Re:  Healeys on RT 66]
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-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	Re: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66
Date: 	Thu, 19 Apr 2012 09:46:34 +1000
From: 	Joe and Lenore Armour <sebring@hotkey.net.au>
To: 	Bob Brown <blkbt7@yahoo.com>
References: 	<1334790525.33953.YahooMailRC@web83902.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>



Bob Brown wrote:

>For anyone living near old RT 66, the Dutch Healey Club has a group leaving 
>Chicago Thursday morning heading for LA. The group consists of 11 Healeys, 8 
>Morgans, 1 TR3 and 1 MGF. I have their schedule if anyone is interested in 
>meeting or just seeing the group. The Chicago AHC hosted a reception for them 
>last night. 
>
>
>Just an FYI.
>  
>

INTERNATIONAL HEALEYS

The worldwide exchange of information,opions and visits has certainly 
grown since the 70s when our esteemed Patrick Quinn and the late Alan 
'Sebring' Jones went on a world wide trip primarily to see Healeys and 
there owners. The fact that Alan's first objective was to steal as many 
100.S Healeys back to Australia as he could organise. At that time 
several cars heavily modified to take V.8 engines existed and this is 
where Alan was successful.

We all know that Patrick then located the BN.3 in UK.  
Patrick and wife Caroline are still involved and Pat is the Editor for 
Vintage Race Car Journal, its south pacific editor

Along the way many friendships were formed and still exist today.

Bill Bolton was instrumental in a group visit of US Healey people to 
then attend the Australian National Rally taht was held in Melbourne 
taht year. The tourists then made there way to the Sydney AH club area.  
At this time there was a lot of billeting of overseas visitors in 
members homes.

Now we have many successful international events and the associated 
commaradie.

Bill Emmerson also visited Australia several times to gather information 
on the Ex-Works cars that were in Australia and to have his Concourse 
winning Healey restored by 100.S guru Steve Pike.

Joe
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tacho not working
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I've done a lot of work on my BJ8's speedometer--the tach is basically a speedometer without the gearing for the 
odometer and trip meter.

You can go through the tach yourself.  There is no mystery--the cable rotates a magnet which causes a flanged flat disk 
to turn ('magnetic coupling') which moves the needle.  There are no ball or roller bearings to be concerned about; the 
cable drives a small shaft--which kinda looks like a little camshaft--to turn the magnet.  There is a small watch spring 
to return the needle to zero.   Probably what's happened is whatever lubricant was on the small shaft has dried out and 
impeded the needle and plate from turning.  Worst case is the old/misrouted cable damaged or wore out something.

You'll need a jeweler's screwdriver kit ($5-10).  Get a clean workbench and I lay down paper towels to keep small bits 
from escaping.  The Anthony Rhodes 'white paper' on speedometers that's been around forever might be helpful.   I use 
'electronic circuit cleaner' to clean the parts; DO NOT use 'electrical parts cleaner;' it's too harsh.  I use a light 
lithium grease to lubricate the shaft.

If anything's busted and you can't find the part then you can button it back up and send it out for service (I'm 
guessing about $100-200 plus shipping, etc.).

Bob



On 4/19/2012 1:11 AM, Derek Job wrote:
> Hi all
>
> Have an issue with the tacho on the car I'm selling. When I bought the car
> 2 years ago the tacho was working fine. I didn't get to spend much time
> with the car but when I finally did I noticed the tacho cable was wrongly
> routed which made it very tight and possibly stretching it. I re-routed the
> cable and it was working fine.
>
> About two months ago when I got the car to my house I noticed it was
> sticking at 2000 revs sometimes at 3000, anyway not moving freely. I
> checked all connections, lubricated and I tested it using a drill attached
> the cable but that procedure never got it to move even a tiny bit. When I
> reconnected it to the engine it did at least move but got stuck again.
> Decided to buy a new cable assuming old one might have been damaged with
> stretching etc. Connected it yesterday and nothing, not even the tiniest
> movement. At least it moved with the old cable.
>
> Any ideas? Is it time the tacho was serviced?
>
> cheers
>
> Derek
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 07:27:17 -0700
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Subject: [Healeys] SF Bay Area 3.54 gear set installation
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Are there folks who bought a gear set here in the SF bay area?  If so
perhaps we can consolidate our installs at the same shop in hopes of a small
break in install fees.

 

The sets seem to be shipping from Dan Lempert and son and so I personally
want to get mine installed in my spare 4.11 pumpkin before rendezvous.
After that is done I will also have a spare 3.9 which I would be willing to
part with.

 

So if you are in the SF bay area, are receiving a gear set and know of the
right shop to install perhaps we should band together.

 

Warm Regards,

 

Tracy Drummond

 

PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP |  <mailto:bighealey@charter.net>
bighealey@charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home |
<http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond>
http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond
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I have that stuff in my motorhome tires.  It works fine on large vehicles,
can't vouch for car tires though.   There is a problem however that you
should know:  The "beads" can clog the air-inlet-valve, and if they do
you'll have a slow leak.   The "fix" is to ensure that air flows into the
tire the last time you press the little button in the center of the valve
stem.  This airflow makes the beads or bead dust fall back into the tire.

Although I can not remember the name of the new product, there is a liquid
version of the same thing that truckers now use.  It doesn't have the
valve-stem clogging "feature" and is much preferred by those of us with big
vehicles.


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 9:52 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] tire balancing

Has anybody tried Dyna Beads to overcome balancing problems?
I run with tubes in tubeless tires on 70 spokes and can never get the
balancing spot on.
They claim they work breally wellb in tubes.

www.innovativebalancing.com/index.html
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Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tacho not working
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Bob-
Duh. BJ8 tach's are electronically operated not cable driven.
Marion Brantley
 
 
In a message dated 4/19/2012 8:56:20 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
bspidell@comcast.net writes:

You can  go through the tach yourself.  There is no mystery--the cable 
rotates a  magnet which causes a flanged flat disk 
to turn ('magnetic coupling')  which moves the needle. 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 10:24:23 2012
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From: "Rich Chrysler" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 update
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I absolutely must agree with Larry's view on resurrecting a car that is so
far gone it needs a new chassis frame and virtually no stone can be left
unturned. These can be bought cheap so the total initial investment dollars
can be very low. Just be prepared to end up with at least the same money in
the car by the time it's finished, but you'll know every inch of the car and
the quality that's gone into it from beginning to end.
Probably the biggest difference here is realizing that as the owner you
likely won't have the talent or the time to build up the metal onto the new
Kilmartin chassis so be prepared to hand those aspects to the professional
shop with the experience to do so, and make sure it's one shop seeing all
the metalwork through from beginning to end.
Meanwhile, if desired the owner can be involved rebuilding other areas of
the car to save some total labour time.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 update
Larry Varley Wrote: <snip>

It does raise an interesting point, I bought this car for $2500.00 and it
was basically complete. I could have spent $20,000.00 for a car and ended up
throwing half of what I paid for in the bin anyway. At the
$20,000.00 level I will have the remains and a brand new Kilmartin frame
with the extra stiffening web in the centre of the rails, fitted with new
bulkheads. If you have to replace the bottom quater of a mudguard, does it
cost any more to replace the bottom half? Do I want a chassis in my car that
is 50 years old that rusts from the inside out? What use is the old trim
when your restoring a car? Is a half worn out engine less expensive to
rebuild than a totally seized engine? One the down side on this car is the
level of corrosion on mechanical components, I'll post some images soon, but
it's quite amazing. Thankfully most of them are easy to get and not
expensive.
Anyway, it's all good fun
Cheers
Larry
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 10:39:42 2012
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From: Al Fuller <al@bighealey.org>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:30:46 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
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Not a word!

Al.
--
Sent from my 'Droid. Please excuse my brevity.

Steve Shepherd <shepherd@tconl.com> wrote:

Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we ordered?
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] tire balancing - answer to an old message
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This has been tried so many times in the past decades or longer. It 
looks like a very good idea. I have tested several of these in the past 
years.  It has never worked properly. It may relieve some problems 
slightly but you cannot balance a tire dynamically this way.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 19-4-2012 17:02, Skip Saunders schreef:
> I have that stuff in my motorhome tires.  It works fine on large vehicles,
> can't vouch for car tires though.   There is a problem however that you
> should know:  The "beads" can clog the air-inlet-valve, and if they do
> you'll have a slow leak.   The "fix" is to ensure that air flows into the
> tire the last time you press the little button in the center of the valve
> stem.  This airflow makes the beads or bead dust fall back into the tire.
>
> Although I can not remember the name of the new product, there is a liquid
> version of the same thing that truckers now use.  It doesn't have the
> valve-stem clogging "feature" and is much preferred by those of us with big
> vehicles.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino
> Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 9:52 AM
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] tire balancing
>
> Has anybody tried Dyna Beads to overcome balancing problems?
> I run with tubes in tubeless tires on 70 spokes and can never get the
> balancing spot on.
> They claim they work breally wellb in tubes.
>
> www.innovativebalancing.com/index.html
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
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Howdy,
 My Series III is having starter issues. The selanoid looks like a Ford
type unit. Can someone supply a current part #?
I'm waiting for the rain to stop (maybe this weekend) before I look into
it. I know shorting across the terminals bypass the thing. I have a serious
offer to buy and need it starting ASAP. Buyers are so picky....
Thanks

-- 
Ira Erbs
IT CONSULTANT
Portland, OR

 We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein
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Son of, I believe

-----Original Message----- 
From: Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 2:50 AM
To: Peter & Veronica
Cc: Steve Shepherd ; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS

Is this Lempert related to Mike Lempert?

Michael S

On 2012-04-18, at 10:49 PM, Peter & Veronica <greylinn@ozemail.com.au> 
wrote:

> Hi Steve
>
> One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago:
>
> Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update
>
> Cyril,
>
> No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory
> today and are coming to me.  Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping
> them out.  Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to 
> me.
>
> Thank you for your patience through this endeavor!
>
> Best,
> Dan
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Steve Shepherd Sent: Thursday, April 19, 
> 2012 11:28 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
> Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we 
> ordered?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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Is Mike still out there building steering wheels?

I emailed him a week or 2 ago and never got a response.

Randy

On Apr 19, 2012, at 3:48 PM, Peter & Veronica wrote:

> Son of, I believe
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 2:50 AM
> To: Peter & Veronica
> Cc: Steve Shepherd ; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
>
> Is this Lempert related to Mike Lempert?
>
> Michael S
>
> On 2012-04-18, at 10:49 PM, Peter & Veronica <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
wrote:
>
>> Hi Steve
>>
>> One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago:
>>
>> Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update
>>
>> Cyril,
>>
>> No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory
>> today and are coming to me.  Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping
>> them out.  Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to
me.
>>
>> Thank you for your patience through this endeavor!
>>
>> Best,
>> Dan
>>
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Peter Linn
>> Brisbane Oz
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Steve Shepherd Sent: Thursday, April 19,
2012 11:28 AM To: healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
>> Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we
ordered?
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
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Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 13:18:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
To: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>, Peter & Veronica
	<greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
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Still has a web site. 

http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels 

He did answer
me last August when I was trying to get his son Dan to answer my emails.
Ron Mitchell
BN7 MkII
BN6





________________________________
 From: Randy
Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
To: Peter & Veronica <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com> 
Sent:
Thursday, April 19, 2012 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
 
Is
Mike still out there building steering wheels?

I emailed him a week or 2 ago
and never got a response.

Randy

On Apr 19, 2012, at 3:48 PM, Peter &
Veronica wrote:

> Son of, I believe
>
> -----Original Message----- From:
Michael Salter
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 2:50 AM
> To: Peter & Veronica
>
Cc: Steve Shepherd ; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR
SETS
>
> Is this Lempert related to Mike Lempert?
>
> Michael S
>
> On
2012-04-18, at 10:49 PM, Peter & Veronica <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
wrote:
>
>> Hi Steve
>>
>> One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of
days ago:
>>
>> Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update
>>
>> Cyril,
>>
>> No,
finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory
>>
today and are coming to me.  Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping
>>
them out.  Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to
me.
>>
>> Thank you for your patience through this endeavor!
>>
>> Best,
>> Dan
>>
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Peter Linn
>> Brisbane Oz
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Shepherd Sent: Thursday, April 19,
2012 11:28 AM To:
healeys@autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
>> Has anyone
received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we
ordered?
>>
_______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
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Well worth the wait. But you made me wonder about my steering wheel...

Bill Lawrence

> From: greylinn@ozemail.com.au
> To: shepherd@tconl.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:39:51 +1000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
>
> Hi Steve
>
> One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago:
>
> Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update
>
> Cyril,
>
> No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory
> today and are coming to me.  Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping
> them out.  Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to me.
>
> Thank you for your patience through this endeavor!
>
> Best,
> Dan
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Shepherd
> Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 11:28 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
>
> Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we ordered?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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I never got mine!!!
-- 
Michael Salter

        Check My Blog
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/


On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 9:09 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com> wrote:

> Well worth the wait. But you made me wonder about my steering wheel...
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> > From: greylinn@ozemail.com.au
> > To: shepherd@tconl.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:39:51 +1000
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
> >
> > Hi Steve
> >
> > One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago:
> >
> > Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update
> >
> > Cyril,
> >
> > No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the
> factory
> > today and are coming to me.  Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping
> > them out.  Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to
> me.
> >
> > Thank you for your patience through this endeavor!
> >
> > Best,
> > Dan
> >
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Peter Linn
> > Brisbane Oz
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Steve Shepherd
> > Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 11:28 AM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
> >
> > Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we
> ordered?
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 19:30:34 2012
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I think mine was from the second batch. I've been using it for years and can't
imagine my car with 4.10s any more.

Bill Lawrence

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 21:15:47 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
From: michaelsalter@gmail.com
To: ynotink@msn.com
CC: greylinn@ozemail.com.au; shepherd@tconl.com; healeys@autox.team.net

I never got mine!!!
--
Michael Salter

        Check My Blog
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/


On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 9:09 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com> wrote:

Well worth the wait. But you made me wonder about my steering wheel...



Bill Lawrence



> From: greylinn@ozemail.com.au

> To: shepherd@tconl.com; healeys@autox.team.net

> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:39:51 +1000

> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS

>

> Hi Steve

>

> One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago:

>

> Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update

>

> Cyril,

>

> No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory

> today and are coming to me.  Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping

> them out.  Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to me.

>

> Thank you for your patience through this endeavor!

>

> Best,

> Dan

>

>

> Cheers

>

> Peter Linn

> Brisbane Oz

>

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Steve Shepherd

> Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 11:28 AM

> To: healeys@autox.team.net

> Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS

>

> Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we ordered?

> _______________________________________________

> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

> Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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>

> Healeys@autox.team.net

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>

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Ira,

Take the old one off and take it to NAPA or an automotive electric shop and
they can probably match it from stock.

Bill Lawrence

> From: eyera3@gmail.com
> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:22:16 -0700
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] land rover question
>
> Howdy,
>  My Series III is having starter issues. The selanoid looks like a Ford
> type unit. Can someone supply a current part #?
> I'm waiting for the rain to stop (maybe this weekend) before I look into
> it. I know shorting across the terminals bypass the thing. I have a serious
> offer to buy and need it starting ASAP. Buyers are so picky....
> Thanks
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> IT CONSULTANT
> Portland, OR
>
>  We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
> thinking we used when we created them.
>                                            -Albert Einstein
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The Road Runner Healey club in Albuquerque, NM has been awaiting your
itinerary. Let us know when you plan to be here and we will try to lay
something on. I'm sure you will be hearing from Dave Porter.

Bill Lawrence

> Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:08:45 -0700
> From: blkbt7@yahoo.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66
>
> For anyone living near old RT 66, the Dutch Healey Club has a group leaving
> Chicago Thursday morning heading for LA. The group consists of 11 Healeys, 8
> Morgans, 1 TR3 and 1 MGF. I have their schedule if anyone is interested in
> meeting or just seeing the group. The Chicago AHC hosted a reception for
them
> last night.
>
>
> Just an FYI.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 20:02:17 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'" <ynotink@msn.com>, <blkbt7@yahoo.com>,
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66
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Ah Bill.. we have been in contact with the group, but they have been
re-miss/ slow in replies.... Bob and I have been in constant contact... ;~)
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 7:43 PM
To: blkbt7@yahoo.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66

The Road Runner Healey club in Albuquerque, NM has been awaiting your
itinerary. Let us know when you plan to be here and we will try to lay
something on. I'm sure you will be hearing from Dave Porter.

Bill Lawrence

> Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:08:45 -0700
> From: blkbt7@yahoo.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66
>
> For anyone living near old RT 66, the Dutch Healey Club has a group
leaving
> Chicago Thursday morning heading for LA. The group consists of 11 Healeys,
8
> Morgans, 1 TR3 and 1 MGF. I have their schedule if anyone is interested in
> meeting or just seeing the group. The Chicago AHC hosted a reception for
them
> last night.
>
>
> Just an FYI.
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Morgan cars - incredible story & pictures
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-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Morris <cotobob@cox.net>
Sent: Thu, Apr 19, 2012 4:48 pm
Subject: FW: Morgan cars - incredible story & pictures



I think these pictures have been around a few times but worthy of a repeat.  A
Morgan is still a very desirable car.


Attached Message


From:
Rich&Robin Lodge <rrlodge@bellsouth.net>

To:
"Undisclosed-Recipient:;"

Subject:
Morgan cars - incredible story & pictures

Date:
Thu, 19 Apr 2012 04:09:05 -0700




Comes with a lifetime termite protection plan.










Morgan cars - incredible story & pictures












































Subject: THE MORGAN--JLV











































































The Morgan Motor Company located in Britain doesnbt change in a changing
world. Not only is it still independent, but it also makes each car by hand. A
base model is about $44,000, with some cars costing up to $300,000. People
wait for over a year to get their exclusive hand-built cars with the shell
made out of metal and much of the vehicle made out of wood. Working on the
wood interior, workers use metal shears to individually shape a hood because
each car has to be different. Every year Morgan produces about 600 cars. The
company will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2011. It has a long and
interesting history, and is still run by the same family: the Morgans. Founded
by Henry Frederick Stanley Morgan known as bHFSb, it was then run by his
son Peter, and is now run by Charles, the son of Peter Morgan.









3

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5

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There are craftsmen b& and there are Craftsmen !!



















































































--
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 20:34:16 2012
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Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:24:11 +1000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] land rover question
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Have a look here Ira:

http://www.hollandrover.co.uk/starter-solenoid-13h5952l-land-rover-series-3-35-p.asp

or here:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-3-STARTER-SOLENOID-13H5952L-/250746148070

or here

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/5791.cfm

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
BN1 Holden V6
Landrover Series III LWB (petrol)

-----Original Message----- 
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 11:31 AM
To: eyera3@gmail.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] land rover question

Ira,

Take the old one off and take it to NAPA or an automotive electric shop and
they can probably match it from stock.

Bill Lawrence

> From: eyera3@gmail.com
> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:22:16 -0700
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] land rover question
>
> Howdy,
>  My Series III is having starter issues. The selanoid looks like a Ford
> type unit. Can someone supply a current part #?
> I'm waiting for the rain to stop (maybe this weekend) before I look into
> it. I know shorting across the terminals bypass the thing. I have a 
> serious
> offer to buy and need it starting ASAP. Buyers are so picky....
> Thanks
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> IT CONSULTANT
> Portland, OR 
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
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Indeed.

I do many wrong things but I just sprained my elbow patting myself on the back for grabbing one of the 3.5 diffs the 
first time around (they were $200--I think Mike barely broke even).  Also started my speedometer repair odyssey trying 
to get the thing calibrated for the taller gears.

Gloat mode off.


Bob



On 4/19/2012 6:09 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> Well worth the wait. But you made me wonder about my steering wheel...
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
>> From: greylinn@ozemail.com.au
>> To: shepherd@tconl.com; healeys@autox.team.net
>> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:39:51 +1000
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
>>
>> Hi Steve
>>
>> One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago:
>>
>> Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update
>>
>> Cyril,
>>
>> No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory
>> today and are coming to me.  Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping
>> them out.  Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to me.
>>
>> Thank you for your patience through this endeavor!
>>
>> Best,
>> Dan
>>
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Peter Linn
>> Brisbane Oz
>>
>>
>>
>>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] land rover question
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Thanks,
I can get one, just need it this weekend and was wondering what's
comparable?

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

 On Apr 19, 2012 7:24 PM, "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
wrote:

> Have a look here Ira:
>
> http://www.hollandrover.co.uk/**starter-solenoid-13h5952l-**
> land-rover-series-3-35-p.asp<http://www.hollandrover.co.uk/starter-solenoid-13h5952l-land-rover-series-3-35-p.asp>
>
> or here:
>
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/**LAND-ROVER-SERIES-3-STARTER-**
> SOLENOID-13H5952L-/**250746148070<http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-3-STARTER-SOLENOID-13H5952L-/250746148070>
>
> or here
>
> http://www.roverparts.com/**Parts/5791.cfm<http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/5791.cfm>
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> BN1 Holden V6
> Landrover Series III LWB (petrol)
>
> -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 11:31 AM
> To: eyera3@gmail.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] land rover question
>
> Ira,
>
> Take the old one off and take it to NAPA or an automotive electric shop and
> they can probably match it from stock.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
>  From: eyera3@gmail.com
>> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:22:16 -0700
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] land rover question
>>
>> Howdy,
>>  My Series III is having starter issues. The selanoid looks like a Ford
>> type unit. Can someone supply a current part #?
>> I'm waiting for the rain to stop (maybe this weekend) before I look into
>> it. I know shorting across the terminals bypass the thing. I have a
>> serious
>> offer to buy and need it starting ASAP. Buyers are so picky....
>> Thanks
>>
>> --
>> Ira Erbs
>> IT CONSULTANT
>> Portland, OR
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
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You can turn that off? Who knew...

> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 19:25:51 -0700
> From: bspidell@comcast.net
> To: ynotink@msn.com
> CC: greylinn@ozemail.com.au; shepherd@tconl.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
>
> Indeed.
>
> I do many wrong things but I just sprained my elbow patting myself on the
back for grabbing one of the 3.5 diffs the
> first time around (they were $200--I think Mike barely broke even).  Also
started my speedometer repair odyssey trying
> to get the thing calibrated for the taller gears.
>
> Gloat mode off.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 4/19/2012 6:09 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> > Well worth the wait. But you made me wonder about my steering wheel...
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> >> From: greylinn@ozemail.com.au
> >> To: shepherd@tconl.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> >> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:39:51 +1000
> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS
> >>
> >> Hi Steve
> >>
> >> One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago:
> >>
> >> Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update
> >>
> >> Cyril,
> >>
> >> No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the
factory
> >> today and are coming to me.  Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping
> >> them out.  Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to
me.
> >>
> >> Thank you for your patience through this endeavor!
> >>
> >> Best,
> >> Dan
> >>
> >>
> >> Cheers
> >>
> >> Peter Linn
> >> Brisbane Oz
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
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'trying to get the thing calibrated for the taller gears.'

Bob- Use a GPS unit- much easier and cheaper

Cheers
John Rowe
Qld Australia


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Thursday, 19 April 2012 6:26 PM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS

Indeed.

I do many wrong things but I just sprained my elbow patting myself on the
back for grabbing one of the 3.5 diffs the first time around (they were
$200--I think Mike barely broke even).  Also started my speedometer repair
odyssey trying to get the thing calibrated for the taller gears.

Gloat mode off.


Bob
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 20 01:58:23 2012
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From: <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
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Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 09:48:05 +0200
Thread-Topic: "Real" Austin-Healey 100S for sale in Germany
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Subject: [Healeys] "Real" Austin-Healey 100S for sale in Germany
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"Real" 100S for sale in Germany, see here:
 http://suchen.mobile.de/auto-inserat/austin%20healey.andere.100s.landau/1560
10323.html?lang=de&pageNumber=5&__lp=5&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=price.cons
umerGrossEuro&makeModelVariant1.makeId=1950&makeModelVariant1.modelId=1&makeM
odelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&
makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&minPowerAsArray=66&minPowerAsArray=K
W&negativeFeatures=EXPORT
The add only says its number 19 of 50 built, colour: green!!
I tried to retrieve more information from the seller. But no resonse to my
e-mails and in a phone call I couldn4t get any, as the lady I have got on the
line wasn`t aware of the car and her boss was out of shop. I asked for a call
back, but still waiting. But boss speaks fluently English, the lady told me.
Good chance for you to give a call and maybe get a "Real" 100S.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany
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Joseph,

I'm afraid I can't read German but that looks like a very poor advert for
what is 'supposedly' a very rare and expensive classic.

What do you get for the price? Is the car completed or is it just in the
state that's shown in the photo, which could be anything, a BN1 with a Cape
100S front welded on.

Anyway, all the  surviving 100S's are  accounted for so it should be easy
to check. Not sure who is looking after the 100S register, is it still Ken
Freese.?

Could be a car made up from a real 100S log book/chassis number. It's been
done before.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Fri, Apr 20, 2012 at 8:48 AM, <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com> wrote:

> "Real" 100S for sale in Germany, see here:
>
>
http://suchen.mobile.de/auto-inserat/austin%20healey.andere.100s.landau/1560
>
>
10323.html?lang=de&pageNumber=5&__lp=5&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=price.cons
>
>
umerGrossEuro&makeModelVariant1.makeId=1950&makeModelVariant1.modelId=1&makeM
>
>
odelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&
>
>
makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&minPowerAsArray=66&minPowerAsArray=K
>
W&negativeFeatures=EXPORT<http://suchen.mobile.de/auto-inserat/austin%20heale
y.andere.100s.landau/156010323.html?lang=de&pageNumber=5&__lp=5&scopeId=C&sor
tOption.sortBy=price.consumerGrossEuro&makeModelVariant1.makeId=1950&makeMode
lVariant1.modelId=1&makeModelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant
2.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&minPowerAsA
rray=66&minPowerAsArray=KW&negativeFeatures=EXPORT>
> The add only says its number 19 of 50 built, colour: green!!
> I tried to retrieve more information from the seller. But no resonse to my
> e-mails and in a phone call I couldn4t get any, as the lady I have got on
> the
> line wasn`t aware of the car and her boss was out of shop. I asked for a
> call
> back, but still waiting. But boss speaks fluently English, the lady told
> me.
> Good chance for you to give a call and maybe get a "Real" 100S.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 20 02:51:32 2012
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From: <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
To: <derek.c.job@gmail.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 10:51:12 +0200
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] "Real" Austin-Healey 100S for sale in Germany
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "Real" Austin-Healey 100S for sale in Germany
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Derek,
all description is this:
Cabrio/Roadster, Oldtimer

EZ 07/1955
100 km
Benzin
97 kW (132 PS)
Schaltgetriebe


Weitere technische Daten
Anzahl der T|ren: 2/3 T|ren
HU/AU: Neu
Farbe: Gr|n


Fahrzeugbeschreibung
Original Austin Healey "100 S"
Nummer 19 von 50 gebauten Fahrzeugen !
Momentan im Neuaufbau,
Weslake-Originalmotor von 1955 !!!

Mit diesem Original Rennfahrzeug werden Sie bei allen Historischen Rennen
zugelassen.

Translated to English:

Convertible/Roadster Classic Car
First registered: 07/1955 (June 1955)
100 km (milage)
Fuel
97 kW (132 PS) (horsepower)
Manual gearbox

ADDITIONAL TECHNICAL DATA
Number of doors: 2/3 doors
MOT inspection: new
Colour: green

CAR DESCRIPTION
Original Austin Healey "100 S"
Number 19 of 50 built cars!
Currently under rebuild,
Weslake-Original Engine of1955!

With this original racing car you are certified to take part at any historical
race.

Josef
Von: Derek Job [mailto:derek.c.job@gmail.com]
Gesendet: Freitag, 20. April 2012 10:36
An: Eckert, Josef
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] "Real" Austin-Healey 100S for sale in Germany

Joseph,

I'm afraid I can't read German but that looks like a very poor advert for what
is 'supposedly' a very rare and expensive classic.

What do you get for the price? Is the car completed or is it just in the state
that's shown in the photo, which could be anything, a BN1 with a Cape 100S
front welded on.

Anyway, all the  surviving 100S's are  accounted for so it should be easy to
check. Not sure who is looking after the 100S register, is it still Ken
Freese.?

Could be a car made up from a real 100S log book/chassis number. It's been
done before.

Derek
www.healeysix.net<http://www.healeysix.net>
On Fri, Apr 20, 2012 at 8:48 AM,
<Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com<mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>> wrote:
"Real" 100S for sale in Germany, see here:
 http://suchen.mobile.de/auto-inserat/austin%20healey.andere.100s.landau/1560
10323.html?lang=de&pageNumber=5&__lp=5&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=price.cons
umerGrossEuro&makeModelVariant1.makeId=1950&makeModelVariant1.modelId=1&makeM
odelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&
makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&minPowerAsArray=66&minPowerAsArray=K
W&negativeFeatures=EXPORT
The add only says its number 19 of 50 built, colour: green!!
I tried to retrieve more information from the seller. But no resonse to my
e-mails and in a phone call I couldn4t get any, as the lady I have got on the
line wasn`t aware of the car and her boss was out of shop. I asked for a call
back, but still waiting. But boss speaks fluently English, the lady told me.
Good chance for you to give a call and maybe get a "Real" 100S.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany
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Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 05:09:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "Real" Austin-Healey 100S for sale in Germany
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Here's a link to the seller's website.  http://www.gs-roadster.de/index.php 
They show a white/lobelia S in their showroom pics.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Fri, 4/20/12, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com

Joseph,

I'm afraid I can't read German but that looks like a very poor advert for
what
is 'supposedly' a very rare and expensive classic.

What do you get for the price? Is the car completed or is it just in the
state
that's shown in the photo, which could be anything, a BN1 with a Cape 100S
front welded on.

Anyway, all the  surviving 100S's are  accounted for so it should be easy to
check. Not sure who is looking after the 100S register, is it still Ken
Freese.?

Could be a car made up from a real 100S log book/chassis number. It's been
done before.
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Subject: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs
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Peter & Veronica are spot on in their advice to look up a local auto
electric shop.

I once had an official "restorer of cars" quote $250. to rebuild a starter
for my BT7. The advice to go to an automobile electric shop is great. In
our area the one I know is Morton Grove Auto Electric which had two stores,
but only the Arlington Heights store is still open. That is in Illinois. To
them my ancient generator was just another job, and it cost me around $83
dollars to have it rebuilt and painted the correct color.

When I looked at the website I didn't see their Morton Grove location so I
call the contact number. I was told that the Morton Grove location was shut
13 years ago The means their repairs, and I also had more than one unit
rebuilt, have lasted over 13 years without failing. Obviously my $83.00
price is no longer valid.

I say this as a happy customer with no interest in them.

>From their website: We also rebuild units for owners of antique cars who
want to keep their vehicles in original condition, and for hot-rod owners
who appreciate the beauty of chromed parts.

Their web site is .cyrusnet.com/mg/. <http://cyrusnet.com/mg/>

Check around, you may have someone similar in your area.

Jack
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs
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More than likely the 'restorer of cars' would have farmed-out the job to a local shop (and doubled the cost). 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Feldman" <qualitas.jack@gmail.com> 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 1:46:32 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs 

Peter & Veronica are spot on in their advice to look up a local auto 
electric shop. 

I once had an official "restorer of cars" quote $250. to rebuild a starter 
for my BT7. The advice to go to an automobile electric shop is great. In 
our area the one I know is Morton Grove Auto Electric which had two stores, 
but only the Arlington Heights store is still open. That is in Illinois. To 
them my ancient generator was just another job, and it cost me around $83 
dollars to have it rebuilt and painted the correct color. 

When I looked at the website I didn't see their Morton Grove location so I 
call the contact number. I was told that the Morton Grove location was shut 
13 years ago The means their repairs, and I also had more than one unit 
rebuilt, have lasted over 13 years without failing. Obviously my $83.00 
price is no longer valid. 

I say this as a happy customer with no interest in them. 

>From their website: We also rebuild units for owners of antique cars who 
want to keep their vehicles in original condition, and for hot-rod owners 
who appreciate the beauty of chromed parts. 

Their web site is .cyrusnet.com/mg/. <http://cyrusnet.com/mg/> 

Check around, you may have someone similar in your area. 

Jack 
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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More than likely the 'restorer of cars' would have farmed-out the job to a local shop (and doubled the cost). 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Feldman" <qualitas.jack@gmail.com> 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 1:46:32 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs 

Peter & Veronica are spot on in their advice to look up a local auto 
electric shop. 

I once had an official "restorer of cars" quote $250. to rebuild a starter 
for my BT7. The advice to go to an automobile electric shop is great. In 
our area the one I know is Morton Grove Auto Electric which had two stores, 
but only the Arlington Heights store is still open. That is in Illinois. To 
them my ancient generator was just another job, and it cost me around $83 
dollars to have it rebuilt and painted the correct color. 

When I looked at the website I didn't see their Morton Grove location so I 
call the contact number. I was told that the Morton Grove location was shut 
13 years ago The means their repairs, and I also had more than one unit 
rebuilt, have lasted over 13 years without failing. Obviously my $83.00 
price is no longer valid. 

I say this as a happy customer with no interest in them. 

>From their website: We also rebuild units for owners of antique cars who 
want to keep their vehicles in original condition, and for hot-rod owners 
who appreciate the beauty of chromed parts. 

Their web site is .cyrusnet.com/mg/. <http://cyrusnet.com/mg/> 

Check around, you may have someone similar in your area. 

Jack 
_______________________________________________
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Jack,

I recently had a local autoelectric shop replace the cloth on the 
field coils. It cost around $38. I replaced the bearing and rivets 
because they did not have the original style but they could have done 
that two and I installed the new brushes - very easy stuff. They 
recommended against having the commuter turned because they can 
crack; you can check it to see how worn it is. A generator rebuild 
should cost around $100. You need the drive end bearing, commuter 
brushes, the rear bronze race and possibly the two springs that press 
the brushes against the commuter.

John

At 09:07 PM 4/20/2012 +0000, Bob Spidell wrote:
>More than likely the 'restorer of cars' would have farmed-out the 
>job to a local shop (and doubled the cost).
>
>Bob
>
>
>--------------------------------
>Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jack Feldman" <qualitas.jack@gmail.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
>Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 1:46:32 PM
>Subject: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs
>
>Peter & Veronica are spot on in their advice to look up a local auto
>electric shop.
>
>I once had an official "restorer of cars" quote $250. to rebuild a starter
>for my BT7. The advice to go to an automobile electric shop is great. In
>our area the one I know is Morton Grove Auto Electric which had two stores,
>but only the Arlington Heights store is still open. That is in Illinois. To
>them my ancient generator was just another job, and it cost me around $83
>dollars to have it rebuilt and painted the correct color.
>
>When I looked at the website I didn't see their Morton Grove location so I
>call the contact number. I was told that the Morton Grove location was shut
>13 years ago The means their repairs, and I also had more than one unit
>rebuilt, have lasted over 13 years without failing. Obviously my $83.00
>price is no longer valid.
>
>I say this as a happy customer with no interest in them.
>
> From their website: We also rebuild units for owners of antique cars who
>want to keep their vehicles in original condition, and for hot-rod owners
>who appreciate the beauty of chromed parts.
>
>Their web site is .cyrusnet.com/mg/. <http://cyrusnet.com/mg/>
>
>Check around, you may have someone similar in your area.
>
>Jack
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs
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Hi John

that is a price. $100, is what is have been quoted here for a generator 
rebuild
kind regards
ed
Historian, AHCUSA


john spaur wrote:
> Jack,
>
> I recently had a local autoelectric shop replace the cloth on the 
> field coils. It cost around $38. I replaced the bearing and rivets 
> because they did not have the original style but they could have done 
> that two and I installed the new brushes - very easy stuff. They 
> recommended against having the commuter turned because they can crack; 
> you can check it to see how worn it is. A generator rebuild should 
> cost around $100. You need the drive end bearing, commuter brushes, 
> the rear bronze race and possibly the two springs that press the 
> brushes against the commuter.
>
> John
>
> At 09:07 PM 4/20/2012 +0000, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> More than likely the 'restorer of cars' would have farmed-out the job 
>> to a local shop (and doubled the cost).
>>
>> Bob
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Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart
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Below is a link to Pertronix coil application chart with information on their
coil resistance for various applications. Apparently, the "Ignitor" & "Ignitor
II" require different coils. I did not know that!

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/chart.aspx

Gary Hodson
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 20 17:58:29 2012
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From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
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Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vacuum advance (was Which electronic ignition?)
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Chris
It makes a lot of sense. I checked mine, and it's 5-12-8 as you thought. 
And the vacuum pipe is connected to the the throttle plate at the rear carb.
So, at idle we have very little vacuum, and we have very little force on 
the weights in the distributor, so we shouldn't have any advance really. 
Or should we, you say that the advance at idle is mechanic?
As engine speed rise we get more advance from the weights and and more 
advance from the vacuum. But when does it stop?
Is the advance from the weights proportional to the engine speed or 
something else? At what engine speed do the weights start to produce 
advance, and at what speed do we have to most advance.
And when do we have the highest vacuum, at half throttle perhaps?

I'll tell you the reason I'm investigating this. Last summer I was asked 
by a friend to take a look at his overdrive. It didn't work as it 
should. It turned out to be an electrical problem, so that was easily 
fixed. But while test driving his car I noticed that it didn't really 
work above 3000 RPM, it just misfired and was generally miserable. I 
began to suspect the ignition timing, and he told me that he some time 
in the past had had some problem with the vacuum unit. So he replaced it 
with a unit from what we think a Sprite. I don't know yet what profile a 
Sprite has, and I haven't checked if I can see any numbers on his unit 
yet. Since last summer I have replaced points, capacitor and spark plugs 
on his car. Rotor and cap are in good condition. I have also changed his 
carb linkage to a standard set up from what looked to be a complicated 
home made construction that didn't really work, why someone had changed 
it in the first place is beyond my understanding. So now the carbs can 
at least be adjusted in the correct way.

I haven't yet tested the car on the road after these repairs, it's still 
winter (sort of) here, but I'll make a try next week. It will be very 
interesting. It runs fine on idle at least.

Today I also checked on a BJ8, and it's also 5-12-8, and the pipe is 
connected at the throttle plate. That car has a leak in the vacuum pipe, 
so I doubt it works as it should. But that will be a later problem.

Perhaps I should get myself a dyno!! Have never seen one.

Best regards, Per in Sweden

Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-19 01:28:
> Hi Per,
> That's correct. Sort of. Healeys generally get all their advance at idle mechanically, not by vacuum. Is your vacuum connected to the Su or manifold?? Not sure specifically about a tri carb setup.
> Perhaps I should have said the difference is "opposite" at idle.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 20 19:20:06 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart
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FWIW, an Ignitor II won't fit under a Healey distributor cap (at least according to the Pertronix folks).

Bob


On 4/20/2012 4:15 PM, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
> Below is a link to Pertronix coil application chart with information on their
> coil resistance for various applications. Apparently, the "Ignitor"&  "Ignitor
> II" require different coils. I did not know that!
>
> http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/chart.aspx
>
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
>
>


-- 
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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart
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It looks like I may be mistaken (or, rather, the Pertronix folks were).

Anybody running an Ignitor II in a Big Healey?  Last I checked, they were neg. ground only.

Bob


On 4/20/2012 6:19 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> FWIW, an Ignitor II won't fit under a Healey distributor cap (at least according to the Pertronix folks).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 4/20/2012 4:15 PM, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>> Below is a link to Pertronix coil application chart with information on their
>> coil resistance for various applications. Apparently, the "Ignitor"&  "Ignitor
>> II" require different coils. I did not know that!
>>
>> http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/chart.aspx
>>
>> Gary Hodson
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>
>


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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

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I did not know that either!
Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Apr 20, 2012 8:20 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart


FWIW, an Ignitor II won't fit under a Healey distributor cap (at least
according
o the Pertronix folks).
Bob
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart
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That's what a Pertronix tech support person told me, but a credible lister has said otherwise.

Bob


On 4/20/2012 8:48 PM, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
> I did not know that either!
> Gary
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Apr 20, 2012 8:20 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart
>
> FWIW, an Ignitor II won't fit under a Healey distributor cap (at least according
> to the Pertronix folks).
>
> Bob
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Sea Hunt TV Healey
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Just happened to start watching the premier of Sea Hunt and there was 
a healey in the opening scene and then again at approximately 10:50, 
16:20 and 19:21 (minutes:seconds) into the episode.

http://xoteria.com/CH21.html

John
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Distributors and advance
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Hi Per,
The mechanical advance in a Lucas distributor is achieved by centrifugal
weights, the rate of movement of these 2 weights is controlled by 2 small
springs.
The mechanical advance "curve" is the answer to your question - the thing you
get "regraphed" when a distributor gets rebuilt.
Regraphing the advance curve is achieved by changing/altering springs and/or
cam. Obviously after the wear is removed by replacing worn out stuff.
The rate of advance is determined by the spring tension, and the degree of
advance is determined by the distributor Cam.
So there are only 2 things you can change.
The springs (there are literally hundreds of options - wire diameter/ number
of coils/ free length etc)
The Cam - options from 9degrees to 18 degrees from Lucas
The weights in each series of Lucas distributor (e.g. All 25d series, 4 and 6
cylinder) are all the same identical weights, there are no Lucas options to
change them lighter or heavier.
For example, specs for a 40662 type DM6 distributor typically fitted to a 3000
mk1 has these Lucas specs:
4.5 degrees at 500 rpm
13 degrees at 1,150 rpm
15 degrees at 2,000 rpm
These are distributor rpm, driven by the cam, which turns a half crankshaft
speed.
So double them for engine rpm, and this distributor will give you 30 degrees
of mechanical advance at 4,000 rpm. So total advance is static plus
mechanical, so if you have 6 degrees of static advance, you'd have 36 degrees
of advance from 4,000 rpm onwards.
At light throttle, cruising, your vacuum advance operates, increasing the
amount of advance to improve fuel economy and reduce emissions.
So. At 1,000 rpm, you will have your static advance (set by rotation of the
distributor body) plus the (4.5 degrees, x 2) = around 15 degrees.
If you graph (I.e. your advance curve) these You can work out what advance you
have at any given rpm.
Advance stops when the distributor cam hits it's bump stop, which on this cam
is 4,000 rpm. Vacuum advance stops at 8 degrees, which again is the limit of
travel of the vacuum advance mechanism.
Most vacuum at the SU throat is when the throttle is just open. Light
throttle.
Best
Chris
PS your friends car sounds more like a fuel starvation issue, or a timing
issue, if everything else is correct
Sent from my iPhone

On 21/04/2012, at 9:47 AM, Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
> Chris
> So, at idle we have very little vacuum,
> you say that the advance at idle is mechanic?
> As engine speed rise we get more advance from the weights
>  But when does it stop?
> Is the advance from the weights proportional to the engine speed or?
> At what engine speed do the weights start to produce advance, and at what
speed do we have to most advance.
> And when do we have the highest vacuum, at half throttle perhaps?
> But while test driving his car I noticed that it didn't really work above
3000 RPM, it just misfired and was generally miserable. I began to suspect the
ignition timing
> Best regards, Per in Sweden
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 21 02:55:42 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Compression ratio for a fast road 100----Update
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Hi,
 
I have finished building up the motor to the specs described below. The
results are:
 
Smooth running
Very usable power curve
No running on
 
The car was tested today on a rolling road and  82 kW (110 hp) was measured
at the rear wheels at 4800rpm. I'am delighted!
 
Best regards
 
 
Thomas Willig
 
--------------------------
 
First of all thanks for the big number of replys to my question. To
clarify my plans:
 
 
 
I plan to use:
 
 
 
DW Fast road aluminum head with hardened studs and DW competition head
gasket.
 
100S profile camshaft 228/234 
 
10.5:1 DW pistons turned/dished to give 9.5:1 CR
 
Harmonic damper on crankshaft
 
Narrow fan belt conversion
 
Lightened original flywheel
 
All components precision balanced
 
Con rods equalized
 
SU H6 on 100 M Manifold
 
123 Ignition
 
Regards
 
Thomas Willig
 
 
Von: David Nock [mailto:healeydoc@sbcglobal.net]
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 13. Januar 2011 17:30
An: Thomas Willig
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Compression ratio for a fast road 100
 
Be very careful when raising the compressions on a 100/4. We just
finished re doing a 100 M that had 13:1 flat top pistons in it the
engine would run on and ping so bad on street gas that you could not
drive it. Also due to the high compressions it cracked that crankshaft.
 
DW only shows a 8.5:1 and 10.5:1.  I would say that with the 10.5:1
option you will have to be very selective on fuel and possibly be
limited to race fuel.
 
When we are building a performance motor for the street we will use the
8.5:1 pistons with a good performance camshaft, New lightened flywheel
and an aluminium head with hardened studs and special head gasket that
does not LEAK. We also will use a verneer cam gear to adjust the cam
timing to the optimum performance.
 
We have installed lots of light flywheels on both 4 and 6 cylinder cars.
As low as 15 lbs and had no problems with idle, accleration or any other
of the things that have been mentioned on previous e mails.
 
David Nock
 
British Car Specialists
 
Stockton Ca 95205
 
209-948-8767
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To: "'john spaur'" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sea Hunt TV Healey
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Hi John and fellow listers,

There is a tenuous Healey link to Sea Hunt.

Nell and I got to know Bernice and Keith Rishell back in the early
eighties prior to the Snowmass meet which a dozen Kiwis attended.
Bernice was the Central Committee chairperson for the meet so I
corresponded with her a lot - no email back then. Keith was rebuilding
his 100S - later sold to Bill Emerson if I remember correctly.

After the meet we were on the road in the tri-carb for about 10 weeks
and stayed with the Rishells at their home in Red Bluff, CA.

I told you that to tell you this:
Bernice formerly worked in TV. She looked after Lloyd Bridges on-set
during the SEA HUNT series. Make-up, I think.

She said he was a really nice guy and his support staff greatly
enjoyed working with him.  Always full of jokes and good humour.

Cheers

Mark 
Auckland. NZ



-----Original Message-----
From: john spaur [mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: Saturday, 21 April 2012 5:02 p.m.
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Sea Hunt TV Healey

Just happened to start watching the premier of Sea Hunt and there was 
a healey in the opening scene and then again at approximately 10:50, 
16:20 and 19:21 (minutes:seconds) into the episode.

http://xoteria.com/CH21.html

John
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 21 13:43:03 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] VSCC Season Opener at Silverstone - Photos
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Hi all,

 I went to the above event at Silverstone Unfortunately I couldn't stay for
the racing but I spent a couple of hours in the paddock. There were some
amazing cars, including a 24 litre aero engined Napier Bentley, Frazer Nash
'Chain Gang', Bobtail Cooper (ex Moss and Hill), Lotus GP car with
diagnally mounted engine(never seen that before), Cooper Bristol, etc etc.

The red Healey in the photos is race prepared by Paul Woolmer (Historic
Registrar of the AHC) and the guy who restored 00N 440. He also looks after
several 100Ss and Works Rally Cars including the final works rally car that
Timo Makinen was to drive in the RAC rally that was cancelled. It has an
aluminium engine.

You can see the cars here


http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj530/derekcjob/VSCC/

Derek
www.healeysix.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 21 16:22:08 2012
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Hi Guys, the panels are now completed, and I'm pleased with the result. 
Hopefully soon the chassis work will get started at Kilmartin's. Please 
follow the link for images.
Cheers
Larry Varley
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/30004.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 21 19:02:25 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] A day at work
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A shot of my "office"

http://bradakis.com/Images/baileys420.jpg


That white BJ8 is giving us fits as we waffle between a carb problem with
the ignition or an ignition problem in the carb.  According to a session 
with
the timing light there is an intermittent drop out of spark.  Perhaps a 
ground
problem?

I didn't see a ground strap anywhere from the engine to the frame.  I'm 
going
to say there should be one, but I don't know Healeys.  Where should it be?

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 21 19:48:39 2012
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Mark
The ground strap should be near the clutch slave cylinder, from one of 
the bolts that clamp engine and gearbox together and the frame, its not 
very long, maybe 4 inches or so.

Per

Mark J Bradakis skrev 2012-04-22 02:58:
> A shot of my "office"
>
> http://bradakis.com/Images/baileys420.jpg
>
>
> That white BJ8 is giving us fits as we waffle between a carb problem with
> the ignition or an ignition problem in the carb. According to a session
> with
> the timing light there is an intermittent drop out of spark. Perhaps a
> ground
> problem?
>
> I didn't see a ground strap anywhere from the engine to the frame. I'm
> going
> to say there should be one, but I don't know Healeys. Where should it be?
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] A day at work
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Or,,, is it on the other side? I'm getting second thoughts. Anyway, 
either left or right under the car at the engine backplate.

Per

Mark J Bradakis skrev 2012-04-22 02:58:
> A shot of my "office"
>
> http://bradakis.com/Images/baileys420.jpg
>
>
> That white BJ8 is giving us fits as we waffle between a carb problem with
> the ignition or an ignition problem in the carb. According to a session
> with
> the timing light there is an intermittent drop out of spark. Perhaps a
> ground
> problem?
>
> I didn't see a ground strap anywhere from the engine to the frame. I'm
> going
> to say there should be one, but I don't know Healeys. Where should it be?
>
> mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 21 20:04:36 2012
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<< On 4/21/2012 8:36 PM, Per Schoerner wrote:
> The ground strap should be near the clutch slave cylinder .... >>

Yep, Per.   Mark, the chassis "location" IS a threaded 'hole' just aft 
of motor/trans joint
on chassis inboard 'face'.  You MIGHT find that there is just a bolt 
head at this location
and only have a "washer" (or not - LOL) that you can see --- dat's it 
<G> ! ! !

Ed
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 21 20:34:46 2012
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Thanks for the replies, folks.  I always enjoy it when I get to benefit from
Team.Net ;-)

I should have mentioned in my original post that the car, "professionally"
restored in 2010, is fitted with a Mallory dual point distributor.  Just the
basic points and condensor setup, no electronic fanciness.

Monday I plan to take my old Craftsman timing light down to the shop.  There
have been occasions before where the fancy new electronic timing lights get
totally whacked out by the electrical noise generated by these old cars.

Sometimes you need period tools to work on period cars.

mjb.
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Down near the starter on my BT7..
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Per Schoerner
Sent: 22 April 2012 02:42
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A day at work

Or,,, is it on the other side? I'm getting second thoughts. Anyway, either
left or right under the car at the engine backplate.

Per

Mark J Bradakis skrev 2012-04-22 02:58:
> A shot of my "office"
>
> http://bradakis.com/Images/baileys420.jpg
>
>
> That white BJ8 is giving us fits as we waffle between a carb problem 
> with the ignition or an ignition problem in the carb. According to a 
> session with the timing light there is an intermittent drop out of 
> spark. Perhaps a ground problem?
>
> I didn't see a ground strap anywhere from the engine to the frame. I'm 
> going to say there should be one, but I don't know Healeys. Where 
> should it be?
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 06:32:36 2012
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Thought I had discovered why my BJ8 was missing.  I had found a stuck pin in the dist cap and grease on the rotor contact, so cleaned everything up and miss stopped------for a while--then a little more missing.  Replaced the dist cap and all wires, rotor---ran great for a while then missing.  Now missing pretty bad.

So far:
I have replaced the rotor--no change
Replaced the dist cap--NC
replaced the wires--NC
Replaced the end caps on the wires---NC
Replaced the coil---NC (Lucus Sport)

Havent replaced the Pertronix (10 + years) since, as I understand it, when they go it is all of a sudden and you get no spark.

Anyone have any ideas as to what to persue next------I hear the FP pumping so assume there is sufficient fuel to the carbs.  

Also---I have checked the float bowls and they have fuel in them and are not stuck.

Thanks
tom
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spitting again
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Bad plug?

On 4/22/2012 8:32 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
> Thought I had discovered why my BJ8 was missing.  I had found a stuck pin in the dist cap and grease on the rotor contact, so cleaned everything up and miss stopped------for a while--then a little more missing.  Replaced the dist cap and all wires, rotor---ran great for a while then missing.  Now missing pretty bad.
>
> So far:
> I have replaced the rotor--no change
> Replaced the dist cap--NC
> replaced the wires--NC
> Replaced the end caps on the wires---NC
> Replaced the coil---NC (Lucus Sport)
>
> Havent replaced the Pertronix (10 + years) since, as I understand it, when they go it is all of a sudden and you get no spark.
>
> Anyone have any ideas as to what to persue next------I hear the FP pumping so assume there is sufficient fuel to the carbs.
>
> Also---I have checked the float bowls and they have fuel in them and are not stuck.
>
> Thanks
> tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 08:36:10 2012
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From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
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Thanks John---I forgot to mention that I also changed all plugs--------

I guess it could be a fuel starvation problem---maybe the FP is working intermittently.  

tom
---- John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org> wrote: 

=============
Bad plug?

On 4/22/2012 8:32 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
> Thought I had discovered why my BJ8 was missing.  I had found a stuck pin in the dist cap and grease on the rotor contact, so cleaned everything up and miss stopped------for a while--then a little more missing.  Replaced the dist cap and all wires, rotor---ran great for a while then missing.  Now missing pretty bad.
>
> So far:
> I have replaced the rotor--no change
> Replaced the dist cap--NC
> replaced the wires--NC
> Replaced the end caps on the wires---NC
> Replaced the coil---NC (Lucus Sport)
>
> Havent replaced the Pertronix (10 + years) since, as I understand it, when they go it is all of a sudden and you get no spark.
>
> Anyone have any ideas as to what to persue next------I hear the FP pumping so assume there is sufficient fuel to the carbs.
>
> Also---I have checked the float bowls and they have fuel in them and are not stuck.
>
> Thanks
> tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 08:37:53 2012
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From: "Niels Bengaard" <bengaard@850r.dk>
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	<4F9360B2.8000503@bredband.net> <4F936F2D.1080408@bradakis.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] A day at work
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New timing lights arent that good for a Healey.
I have a Innova Equus 5568, that automatically senses when you run the 
engine and goes into that mode.
If it doesnt sense ignition it shows voltage. It can sense ignition for max 
10 sec, thats the time you have to put in the 15 deg. BTDC and also measure. 
It resets if it looses the ignition signal.

Niels


-----Oprindelig meddelelse----- 
From: Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 4:38 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A day at work

Thanks for the replies, folks.  I always enjoy it when I get to benefit from
Team.Net ;-)

I should have mentioned in my original post that the car, "professionally"
restored in 2010, is fitted with a Mallory dual point distributor.  Just the
basic points and condensor setup, no electronic fanciness.

Monday I plan to take my old Craftsman timing light down to the shop.  There
have been occasions before where the fancy new electronic timing lights get
totally whacked out by the electrical noise generated by these old cars.

Sometimes you need period tools to work on period cars.

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 09:24:15 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper
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Hello Gentlemen,

What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER?   I am going to strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top.  I beleive that Imron paint was used but not sure of that .so I want the best alll around remover.................and yes I know it will be a mess:):):)

thanks
Mitchell

1959 bn4
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I'm a big beleiver in fyi, but I would send it out to have them media
blasted. It's quick and environmentally safe. Emron requires some serious
stuff to remove.

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

 On Apr 22, 2012 8:22 AM, <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:

> Hello Gentlemen,
>
> What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER?   I am going to
> strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top.  I beleive that Imron paint was used
> but not sure of that .so I want the best alll around
> remover.................and yes I know it will be a mess:):):)
>
> thanks
> Mitchell
>
> 1959 bn4
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 02:30:15 +1000
To: "caddi5@comcast.net" <caddi5@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint stripper
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Redistrip.

Seriously, shrouds are alloy. And over 40 years old aluminum alloy. Anything
"we" use to remove paint requires scraping. And the last thing we need is
trying to scrape bubbling old paint off a 40 plus year old aluminum shroud
with a flat steel scraper....
You might get the paint off, but you can add hundreds of dollars to the prep
by scarring the shrouds removing old paint..
Some things we can do. Some we can't. Unless you've done this before, then I'd
suggest don't learn on aluminum shrouds on your Healey. Get it chemically
dipped by a professional.

As Dirty Harry said, "a man must know his limitations"
Or something like that.....
;-)
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 23/04/2012, at 1:22 AM, caddi5@comcast.net wrote:

> Hello Gentlemen,
>
> What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER?   I am going to
strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top.  I beleive that Imron paint was used but
not sure of that .so I want the best alll around remover.................and
yes I know it will be a mess:):):)
>
> thanks
> Mitchell
>
> 1959 bn4
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint stripper
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caddi5 wrote:
> What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER?
> I am going to strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top.

Three different materials - aluminum shroud, steel doors, and
fiberglass top - need 3 different strippers. You'll want the
least abrasive method for each. I'll let others with more
experience comment on what to use.

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
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Kleanstrip Aircraft paint remover. It is made for aluminum and works 
on steel too. I have not used it to remove Imron that I know of. I 
stripped my shrouds and wings with out scaring the metal. Just let 
the stripper do the work; it takes several applications. Use a little 
heat from a propane torch on the bondo.

John

At 03:22 PM 4/22/2012 +0000, caddi5@comcast.net wrote:
>Hello Gentlemen,
>
>What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER?   I am going 
>to strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top.  I beleive that Imron paint 
>was used but not sure of that .so I want the best alll around 
>remover.................and yes I know it will be a mess:):):)
>
>thanks
>Mitchell
>
>1959 bn4
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From: rick thomas <thomas3@shaw.ca>
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Subject: [Healeys] fuel sending unit
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hey there every one
In the never ending battle of an accurate fuel guage, does anyone have any thing to say on these double brush sending units curently being old on E Bay
thanks

Rick 
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint stripper
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RediStrip did a great job on my bugeye 35 yrs ago, but it is getting
increasingly difficult to find operators as environmental regs. have caused a
number of them to close, like the one here in Massachusetts.  If you do find
one, make sure they know it's aluminum they are dipping, they use a different
solution than they do for steel.  I'm pretty sure the steel solution will
dissolve the ali. 

If you go with an aircraft stripper, sand the old finish with coarse sandpaper
first, apply the stripper and cover it with plastic wrap to keep the stripper
from evaporating.  Let the stripper do the work.  Might be best to use plastic
scrapers and single edge razor blades for the removal process.

Oh yeah, wear a respirator in a well ventilated area, otherwise you'll be
higher than Barrett-Jackson auction prices.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sun, 4/22/12, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint stripper
To: "caddi5@comcast.net" <caddi5@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, April 22, 2012, 12:30 PM

Redistrip.

Seriously, shrouds are alloy. And over 40 years old aluminum alloy. Anything
"we" use to remove paint requires scraping. And the last thing we need is
trying to scrape bubbling old paint off a 40 plus year old aluminum shroud
with a flat steel scraper....
You might get the paint off, but you can add hundreds of dollars to the prep
by scarring the shrouds removing old paint..
Some things we can do. Some we can't. Unless you've done this before, then
I'd
suggest don't learn on aluminum shrouds on your Healey. Get it chemically
dipped by a professional.

As Dirty Harry said, "a man must know his limitations"
Or something like that.....
;-)
Chris
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint stripper
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Agree; except the 'standard' Klean-Strip stripper--more readily available--seems to be pretty much the same stuff and just as effective (and probably cheaper). Interestingly enough, the last time I read the label on the Klean-Strip 'Aircraft' paint stripper it said 'Not for use on aircraft.' Go figure. 

Tips: put the stripper on heavy and wet and only brush it on in one direction. Don't scrimp, and scrape it off as soon as the paint bubbles; if you let it dry you go back to square one. Use plastic scrapers on aluminum. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Kleanstrip Aircraft paint remover. It is made for aluminum and works 
on steel too. I have not used it to remove Imron that I know of. I 
stripped my shrouds and wings with out scaring the metal. Just let 
the stripper do the work; it takes several applications. Use a little 
heat from a propane torch on the bondo. 

John 

At 03:22 PM 4/22/2012 +0000, caddi5@comcast.net wrote: 
>Hello Gentlemen, 
> 
>What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER? I am going 
>to strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top. I beleive that Imron paint 
>was used but not sure of that .so I want the best alll around 
>remover.................and yes I know it will be a mess:):):) 
> 
>thanks 
>Mitchell 
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Remember, it is the paint you are removing so the aluminum stripper 
will work on the painted steel.

A few other points:

Most body shops will skim coat the entire car so small scratches are 
not a problem at all, in fact if bondo is being used to fill in small 
dings they usually leave a rougher finish to help with adhesion. If 
the aluminum or steel is being straightened using traditional hammer 
and dolly techniques it can be very rough because of the filing that 
is done to find low and high spots in the process. Metal scrapers are 
fine, just use them carefully.

Don't use a steel brush on the aluminum. I am told it can leave 
embedded fragments in the aluminum that will rust. Always use a brash 
wire brush on the aluminum.

John

At 10:47 AM 4/22/2012 -0700, HealeyRick wrote:
>I'm pretty sure the steel solution will dissolve the aluminum.
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel sending unit
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I bought one from NOS locators and the quality is excellent. However, 
for my application (BT7) it would not read correctly. The OMH range 
was off. I believe it needs to read in the 0-70 or 0-90 range. I 
could not get it even close to those ranges on my work bench. I never 
put it in the car. I sent the sender to West Valley Instruments to 
have the gauge restored and to have him calibrate it. He had an 
original sender that I bought instead.

John

At 01:31 PM 4/22/2012 -0400, rick thomas wrote:
>hey there every one
>In the never ending battle of an accurate fuel guage, does anyone 
>have any thing to say on these double brush sending units curently 
>being old on E Bay
>thanks
>
>Rick
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From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
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Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 13:25:41 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint stripper
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I think Healey Rick had in mind the kind of stripper solution that
whole chasses and engine blocks are dipped into, the stuff that eats
away the aluminum ID tags on the block if you don't pull the drive
rivets and remove them.  It would disolve any problems  on your
shrouds, too ;-)  Then you'd get to start over.

-Roland

On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 12:24:18 -0700,John wrote:

::Remember, it is the paint you are removing so the aluminum stripper
::will work on the painted steel.
[snip]
::
::John
::
::At 10:47 AM 4/22/2012 -0700, HealeyRick wrote:
::>I'm pretty sure the steel solution will dissolve the aluminum.
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From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
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You may also want to give mechanical stripping a try.  The 3M Scotch Brite
Purple Disc in a grinder is supposed to work really well: 
http://tinyurl.com/6vww25e
 I wouldn't want to keep it too long in one place so as not to put too much
heat in and warp the metal.  A lot of guys swear by using single edge razor
blades and shaving the paint off.  I don't know if this would work on Imron,
though.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
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My .02 cents worth..My X cousin in law, think that's what it is when you get
a divorce.lol.. has a shop that restores high end cars. He has gone to
baking the old paint finishes off of cars. An environmentally friendly, and
cost effective quick way of removing the paint. Whole car goes in the oven
after being stripped of all items you don't want to get cooked. Car comes
out and what is left of the paint, bondo filler, and eons of grease is a
powder residue vacuumed off. 
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Sort of the autobody answer to cremation????


On 04/22/12, Allyn Richardson wrote:

My .02 cents worth..My X cousin in law, think that's what it is when you get
a divorce.lol.. has a shop that restores high end cars. He has gone to
baking the old paint finishes off of cars. An environmentally friendly, and
cost effective quick way of removing the paint. Whole car goes in the oven
after being stripped of all items you don't want to get cooked. Car comes
out and what is left of the paint, bondo filler, and eons of grease is a
powder residue vacuumed off. 
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My favorite stuff too!!!!!!


On 04/22/12, john spaur wrote:

Kleanstrip Aircraft paint remover. It is made for aluminum and works 
on steel too. I have not used it to remove Imron that I know of. I 
stripped my shrouds and wings with out scaring the metal. Just let 
the stripper do the work; it takes several applications. Use a little 
heat from a propane torch on the bondo.

John

At 03:22 PM 4/22/2012 +0000, caddi5@comcast.net wrote:
>Hello Gentlemen,
>
>What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER? I am going 
>to strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top. I beleive that Imron paint 
>was used but not sure of that .so I want the best alll around 
>remover.................and yes I know it will be a mess:):):)
>
>thanks
>Mitchell
>
>1959 bn4
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Now that you mention it.Yep!..lol.
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Allyn,
I would be very afraid of annealing the aluminum shrouds with this method.
I think that to turn  the paint into a powder would require a
temperature above that required to anneal aluminum.
I have annealed aluminum in a paint baking oven meant to cure the paint
and not burn it to a powder.
Healey shrouds are somewhat soft anyway, but losing their temper would
be a disaster.
Charlie

On 4/22/2012 7:19 PM, Allyn Richardson wrote:
>  My .02 cents worth..My X cousin in law, think that's what it is when you get
>  a divorce.lol.. has a shop that restores high end cars. He has gone to
>  baking the old paint finishes off of cars. An environmentally friendly, and
>  cost effective quick way of removing the paint. Whole car goes in the oven
>  after being stripped of all items you don't want to get cooked. Car comes
>  out and what is left of the paint, bondo filler, and eons of grease is a
>  powder residue vacuumed off.
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I had the same concerns myself. I think the Aluminum used for the shrouds
was a 1000 series aluminum , very soft to begin with. And becomes work
hardened by forming it. He assured me that he has processed many aluminum
bodied cars this way. And not to worry. In the interest of full disclosure I
never proceeded with it myself. I think the key is that the car is complete
and panels attached. They will remain in shape and not relax out of shape if
held in place.

 

It definitely would require a leap of faith on this method and some more
research. Just wanted to throw it out there as an alternative people are
doing now.   
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Subject: [Healeys] Where should I buy my 100 top?
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Hello Gang,    who makes the best original style top for the BN2?  where
should I get it?    Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers,  Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM
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Anything with methylene chloride in it will get the paint off the metal but
don't use it on the fibreglass as it will eat the gelcoat. 

I did my shrouds
& ht last year and used the cheapest hardware store stripper in 4 litre tins.
Slop it on with a paint brush and scrub it off after ten minutes with a brass
wire brush. Clean the wire bristles off with a rag when they are caked up and
you don't make very much mess at all. If you have heaps of paint layers the
first ones can be scraped on the flat areas with a paint scraper but only very
gentle scraping on the curved bits. Good hose down afterwards before the
stripper starts to dry and you're done.

For the hardtop I used a citrus based
stripper and it worked well although a little more slowly than the methylene
chloride type. I covered it in plastic kitchen wrap and came back in half an
hour with the wire brush. It took about five goes to get it all off. Don't get
the fibreglass soaking wet as it absorbs moisture.

Lots and lots of photos
before and during stripdown...

Andy.

--- On Mon, 23/4/12, caddi5@comcast.net
<caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:

> From: caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net>
>
Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Received:
Monday, 23 April, 2012, 3:22 AM
> Hello Gentlemen,
> 
> What is the very
best.......... PAINT
> STRIPPER/REMOVER?   I am going to strip my
>
shrouds,doors,and hard top.  I beleive that Imron paint
> was used but not
sure of that .so I want the best alll
> around remover.................and yes
I know it will be a
> mess:):):)
> 
> thanks
> Mitchell
> 
> 1959 bn4
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 13:45:15 +0100
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: "T+ B Willig" <willig@wtnet.de>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Compression ratio for a fast road 100----Update
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Thomas

Congratulations on building a very nice engine.

I was talking to the mechanic that looks after 2, 100s that race at Le Mans
and Goodwood. They have full blown race engines with steels cranks etc,
etc. He had just got back from dyno testing and recorded 141 hp at the
wheels which they feel is about the maximum you can extract from the 100
engine

regards

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Sat, Apr 21, 2012 at 9:44 AM, T+ B Willig <willig@wtnet.de> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have finished building up the motor to the specs described below. The
> results are:
>
> Smooth running
> Very usable power curve
> No running on
>
> The car was tested today on a rolling road and  82 kW (110 hp) was measured
> at the rear wheels at 4800rpm. I'am delighted!
>
> Best regards
>
>
> Thomas Willig
>
> --------------------------
>
> First of all thanks for the big number of replys to my question. To
> clarify my plans:
>
>
>
> I plan to use:
>
>
>
> DW Fast road aluminum head with hardened studs and DW competition head
> gasket.
>
> 100S profile camshaft 228/234
>
> 10.5:1 DW pistons turned/dished to give 9.5:1 CR
>
> Harmonic damper on crankshaft
>
> Narrow fan belt conversion
>
> Lightened original flywheel
>
> All components precision balanced
>
> Con rods equalized
>
> SU H6 on 100 M Manifold
>
> 123 Ignition
>
> Regards
>
> Thomas Willig
>
>
> Von: David Nock [mailto:healeydoc@sbcglobal.net]
> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 13. Januar 2011 17:30
> An: Thomas Willig
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Compression ratio for a fast road 100
>
> Be very careful when raising the compressions on a 100/4. We just
> finished re doing a 100 M that had 13:1 flat top pistons in it the
> engine would run on and ping so bad on street gas that you could not
> drive it. Also due to the high compressions it cracked that crankshaft.
>
> DW only shows a 8.5:1 and 10.5:1.  I would say that with the 10.5:1
> option you will have to be very selective on fuel and possibly be
> limited to race fuel.
>
> When we are building a performance motor for the street we will use the
> 8.5:1 pistons with a good performance camshaft, New lightened flywheel
> and an aluminium head with hardened studs and special head gasket that
> does not LEAK. We also will use a verneer cam gear to adjust the cam
> timing to the optimum performance.
>
> We have installed lots of light flywheels on both 4 and 6 cylinder cars.
> As low as 15 lbs and had no problems with idle, accleration or any other
> of the things that have been mentioned on previous e mails.
>
> David Nock
>
> British Car Specialists
>
> Stockton Ca 95205
>
> 209-948-8767
> _______________________________________________
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Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry...........................I have used paint stripper many years ago and was just wondering if there were any NEW and IMPROVED brands avail.
I think I will strip the hardtop by hand(sanding)..................doors (have them dipped chemically)..................and the shrouds using Aircraft stripper.(carefully)


Thanks Again
Mitch
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I have checked all I can think of electrically that could cause the "spitting"/missing, and have just about come to the conclusion that it is not electrical.

I have pulled the carb float chamber covers and there is ample fuel in both.  

Could it possible be some crud in the bottom of the float chamber or something in the passageway leading to the jet assy that is restricting fuel?  I don't want to pull these off unless I have to, but I'm at a total impass as to what this could be.

Am I right to conclude it is not the Pertronix?  My understanding is that if the Per goes, it really goes---car shuts off, so it wouldn't be a slow dying process for it??

What are your thoughts---fuel starvation--and if so----where---maybe as I mentioned above??

Thanks for all your comments.

tom
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The Mallory Dual Point system is prone to the condensor coming loose  
as well as the points need to e maintained. Check the gaps they  
probably have closed up or the condensor has a bad connection to ground.

Some of the modern timing lights will not work correctly on the older  
ignition systems if you are using solid core plug wires. We have  
carbon wire that we install in place of the number 1 plug wire if  
there is a problem with the modern timing lights.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On Apr 21, 2012, at 7:38 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> Thanks for the replies, folks.  I always enjoy it when I get to  
> benefit from
> Team.Net ;-)
>
> I should have mentioned in my original post that the car,  
> "professionally"
> restored in 2010, is fitted with a Mallory dual point distributor.   
> Just the
> basic points and condensor setup, no electronic fanciness.
>
> Monday I plan to take my old Craftsman timing light down to the  
> shop.  There
> have been occasions before where the fancy new electronic timing  
> lights get
> totally whacked out by the electrical noise generated by these old  
> cars.
>
> Sometimes you need period tools to work on period cars.
>
> mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 23 10:02:20 2012
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From: "Williams, Allen" <awill@ccs.ua.edu>
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 11:02:14 -0500
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] Spitting---------more info
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I haven't followed your troubles closely, so please excuse me if my
suggestions have been mentioned.
I had trouble several years ago with my car spitting, missing, quitting
altogether. Ultimately it turned out to be a series of bad rotors. When they
short to ground, the tracking can be difficult to see. Worth a look! Perhaps
you've already checked to see if the distributor is actually advancing as
needed. Probably worth rechecking the timing, too.
If the symptoms you are having are caused by a lean condition, you could try
pulling out the choke partially to make it run a little richer. If it runs
better, then you might suspect trash or other issues.
One thing I've done to check the possiblity of trash obstructing fuel flow is
to take off the carb's damper assembly  and shoot carb cleaner into the jet.
That will clear it it out at least temporarily. While there, check the needle
to make sure it's properly fitted, not bent or otherwise off center. Also, I'd
make sure the dampers are not sticking. Just my 2 cents on what I'd try.
Regards,
Allen W.
BJ7 (ours for the last 38 years)

________________________________________
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tom Felts [tomfelts@windstream.net]
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 9:16 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Spitting---------more info

I have checked all I can think of electrically that could cause the
"spitting"/missing, and have just about come to the conclusion that it is not
electrical.

I have pulled the carb float chamber covers and there is ample fuel in both.

Could it possible be some crud in the bottom of the float chamber or something
in the passageway leading to the jet assy that is restricting fuel?  I don't
want to pull these off unless I have to, but I'm at a total impass as to what
this could be.

Am I right to conclude it is not the Pertronix?  My understanding is that if
the Per goes, it really goes---car shuts off, so it wouldn't be a slow dying
process for it??

What are your thoughts---fuel starvation--and if so----where---maybe as I
mentioned above??

Thanks for all your comments.

tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 23 11:20:42 2012
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From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 10:13:19 -0700
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Subject: [Healeys] Thermo car needle assembly needed
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I have a broken thermo carb needle stop adjustment.  If you have one you are
willing to part with or trade for ?? please let me know.

 

This assembly is held on by two flathead screws .  Whatta ya got.  Thanks

 

Warm Regards,

 

Tracy Drummond

 

PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP |  <mailto:bighealey@charter.net>
bighealey@charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home |
<http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond>
http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 23 12:57:09 2012
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	<healeys@autox.team.net>,  "Williams, Allen" <awill@ccs.ua.edu>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spitting---------more info
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Have you checked the coil? Try coil of known quanity.

Jerry Anderson 
---- "Williams wrote: 
> I haven't followed your troubles closely, so please excuse me if my
> suggestions have been mentioned.
> I had trouble several years ago with my car spitting, missing, quitting
> altogether. Ultimately it turned out to be a series of bad rotors. When they
> short to ground, the tracking can be difficult to see. Worth a look! Perhaps
> you've already checked to see if the distributor is actually advancing as
> needed. Probably worth rechecking the timing, too.
> If the symptoms you are having are caused by a lean condition, you could try
> pulling out the choke partially to make it run a little richer. If it runs
> better, then you might suspect trash or other issues.
> One thing I've done to check the possiblity of trash obstructing fuel flow is
> to take off the carb's damper assembly  and shoot carb cleaner into the jet.
> That will clear it it out at least temporarily. While there, check the needle
> to make sure it's properly fitted, not bent or otherwise off center. Also, I'd
> make sure the dampers are not sticking. Just my 2 cents on what I'd try.
> Regards,
> Allen W.
> BJ7 (ours for the last 38 years)
> 
> ________________________________________
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Tom Felts [tomfelts@windstream.net]
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 9:16 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Spitting---------more info
> 
> I have checked all I can think of electrically that could cause the
> "spitting"/missing, and have just about come to the conclusion that it is not
> electrical.
> 
> I have pulled the carb float chamber covers and there is ample fuel in both.
> 
> Could it possible be some crud in the bottom of the float chamber or something
> in the passageway leading to the jet assy that is restricting fuel?  I don't
> want to pull these off unless I have to, but I'm at a total impass as to what
> this could be.
> 
> Am I right to conclude it is not the Pertronix?  My understanding is that if
> the Per goes, it really goes---car shuts off, so it wouldn't be a slow dying
> process for it??
> 
> What are your thoughts---fuel starvation--and if so----where---maybe as I
> mentioned above??
> 
> Thanks for all your comments.
> 
> tom
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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> 
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From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spitting---------more info
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CHECK THE BRASS filters at the float chamber entry.  over a period of time,
these can become compacted with fuel tank debris.
cheers,
jerry wall

On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 9:16 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> I have checked all I can think of electrically that could cause the
> "spitting"/missing, and have just about come to the conclusion that it is
> not electrical.
>
> I have pulled the carb float chamber covers and there is ample fuel in
> both.
>
> Could it possible be some crud in the bottom of the float chamber or
> something in the passageway leading to the jet assy that is restricting
> fuel?  I don't want to pull these off unless I have to, but I'm at a total
> impass as to what this could be.
>
> Am I right to conclude it is not the Pertronix?  My understanding is that
> if the Per goes, it really goes---car shuts off, so it wouldn't be a slow
> dying process for it??
>
> What are your thoughts---fuel starvation--and if so----where---maybe as I
> mentioned above??
>
> Thanks for all your comments.
>
> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>


-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
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Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale
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A long time friend is moving back to England and is not going to take his
Healey since he lives in London and has no place to park the car.  He tried it
for several years and could not find good easy, affordable parking from where
he has his house.  Mike and I have been friends for twenty five years and have
traveled many hundreds of miles together in our Healey's. For those 25 years I
have known this to be an exceptional car that has been driven without issues
all over the east coast, Midwest and eastern Canada.  I have no financial
interest just trying to help a friend. If anyone is interested I will be happy
to send the information I have.  You can contact me at this email or at
mcelrath.john@gmail.com.

Thanks
John McElrath
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Subject: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981
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http://www.mgenthusiast.com/mg-news/latest-news/634-an-unregistered-bgt-le-has-surfaced-in-lancashire
Found in storage brand new 1981 mgb gt

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 14:22:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981
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I'd rather have one of these brand new Spitfires:  http://tinyurl.com/6ulyjrz

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Mon, 4/23/12, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:

From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981
To: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, April 23, 2012, 4:47 PM

http://www.mgenthusiast.com/mg-news/latest-news/634-an-unregistered-bgt-le-ha
s-surfaced-in-lancashire
Found in storage brand new 1981 mgb gt

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 23 18:17:17 2012
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The "spitting" problem has "apparently" been solved.  (I'm still holding my breath) I really thought it was a fuel delivery problem, and decided to pull the carb pistons and, using a piece of rubber hose, blew back towards the jet and fuel passageway from the chamber. 

Must have blown out what was inside the channel cause she is back to her smooth self!!!  Now----guess I should pull the chambers off and clean out in there before whatever was in there gets back again!

Thanks to all of you for your help and encouragement.

Tom
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Here's what I wrote the other day on the MG list about a car we had come
into the shop:


Some fellow purchased a new 1980 MGB limited edition.  He drove it from
Salt Lake up to his place in Heber, about 40 miles away.  He died a week or
so later.  Wow.

His son took over the place, the MG sat in a heated outbuilding under wraps
for these many years.  The daughter now wants to drive it.  The first 
time it
came into Mike's shop it had just over 100 miles on it.  Friday when we put
in a new fuel sending unit it was way up to 500.  The parts aren't 
wearing out,
they are dying of boredom!  It even has the original tires.  Clean, 
unmolested,
wow.

She is thinking of driving it to New York this summer.  And yes, she 
will put
new tires on it before doing so.

Personally if it were mine *I* wouldn't put thousands of miles on it for 
a road
trip.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 24 04:07:43 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981
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But...but...it's a neat LBC!  I would drive it, provided one has gone 
through it and made sure that it didn't have original parts that were on the 
verge of catastrophic failure. Why not drive it?
I drive my 1967 Healey thousands of miles each year.  That is why I have it. 
Just one man's opinion, of course ;<)
GaryB

-----Original Message----- 
From: Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 12:30 AM
To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981 
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 21:23:40 +1000
To: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
Cc: "<healeys@Autox.Team.Net>" <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981
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Truthfully. With all due respect. Every disclaimer I can think of.....
Seriously. A 1981 MGB?
Now if it was a 1981 Toyota, or a 1981 Honda..... Let's get excited!!!!
;-)
Chris
Tongue firmly planted in cheek. Well, maybe not...

Sent from my iPhone

On 24/04/2012, at 8:00 PM, "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com> wrote:

> But...but...it's a neat LBC!  I would drive it, provided one has gone
through it and made sure that it didn't have original parts that were on the
verge of catastrophic failure. Why not drive it?
> I drive my 1967 Healey thousands of miles each year.  That is why I have it.
Just one man's opinion, of course ;<)
> GaryB
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis
> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 12:30 AM
> To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brand new
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 24 08:38:36 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Heart stopper
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Any of you recognize themselves in this heartstopper from Sydney, Australia??

http://news.ninemsn.com.au/national/8456090/video-shows-near-misses-at-sydney
-intersection

cheers
Pieter
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Subject: [Healeys] Under the Southern Cross
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A very pleasant ANZAC Day   under the Southern
Cross

Warm regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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Subject: [Healeys] EBC Greenstuff anti-squeal
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Have just received new EBC pads for my MkII BT7.

In the box was a plastic envelope containing four black adhesive pads/sheets
(3M 468 MP :- according to Google this stuff is a " High performance 200MP
pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive on 58 lb polycoated kraft paper liner.
High temperature formulation, solvent resistance, shear adhesion and HSE,
low LSE. Use for general industrial joining. 5.0 mil thick with 4.0 mil
liner.") The instructions say:- "Cut with scissors to shape required and
apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to
prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted by the
hydraulic pistons or the calliper supports".

 

These were not supplied with previous pads.

 

Does anyone have any experience with these pads?....

Are they effective? 

And/or are they more effective than the shaped metal shim type thingies that
I've used, with some success, until now?

Or maybe I could/should(?) use the 3M pads AND the metal shim type thingies?

 

I'll trot off and cut the pads to shape anyhow. I suspect that this stuff
won't cut too easily if it's that heat resistant...?

 

Thanks,

Simon.
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Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Electrical Short
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I have just refinished the wooden dash panel on my BJ8 and put everything
back together again. According to the wiring diagram and the pics I took as
I went along, everything is hooked up as before. Now I have a dead short
somewhere and I can't find it. A few years back I added an inline fuse
between the starter solenoid and the regulator (now just a buss since neg
ground conversion.) Car was doing fine before project. Now the fuse blows
when I turn the battery switch on. Not that it is revalent but hte fuse is
a Buss 35A. Had my wife look as I turned the batt switch and she saw a
flash in the fuse holder when I turned the switch. Sounds to me like a hot
wire is going to ground, but I don't see it. Anyone have any ideas of what
to do next? Is there a way to chase it with an ohmmeter?

Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
To: "Bob Johnson" <bjsbj8@gmail.com>, "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chasing Electrical Short
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Hi Bob, sounds like a definite short to ground somewhere. Best way is to 
disconnect the battery and connect a lamp between the battery +ve and the 
battery cable you have disconnected. With a short in the system this will 
light the lamp. Start by disconnecting everything under the dash one at a 
time and whatever puts the light out when you disconnect it is the source of 
the short. Investigate this part of the circuit in detail to locate the 
problem.

Kindest Regards

Tom
Tom McCay - Director, CCW-Tools, a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 
Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 
705 9115 (fax) enquiries@ccw-tools.com  www.ccw-tools.com

Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 
Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with 
company number 3930761.  VAT registration number: 755 7630 05

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Johnson" <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 5:37 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Electrical Short


>I have just refinished the wooden dash panel on my BJ8 and put everything
> back together again. According to the wiring diagram and the pics I took 
> as
> I went along, everything is hooked up as before. Now I have a dead short
> somewhere and I can't find it. A few years back I added an inline fuse
> between the starter solenoid and the regulator (now just a buss since neg
> ground conversion.) Car was doing fine before project. Now the fuse blows
> when I turn the battery switch on. Not that it is revalent but hte fuse is
> a Buss 35A. Had my wife look as I turned the batt switch and she saw a
> flash in the fuse holder when I turned the switch. Sounds to me like a hot
> wire is going to ground, but I don't see it. Anyone have any ideas of what
> to do next? Is there a way to chase it with an ohmmeter?
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 24 11:22:03 2012
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Hi Bob,
I have had that proble3m before and I would suggest that you take a close
look at the ignition light socket.The originals were isolated from ground
but most harness manufacturers don't recognize that and use the same socket
as the dash illumination lights.

-- 
Michael Salter

        Check My Blog
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/


On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 at 12:37 PM, Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have just refinished the wooden dash panel on my BJ8 and put everything
> back together again. According to the wiring diagram and the pics I took as
> I went along, everything is hooked up as before. Now I have a dead short
> somewhere and I can't find it. A few years back I added an inline fuse
> between the starter solenoid and the regulator (now just a buss since neg
> ground conversion.) Car was doing fine before project. Now the fuse blows
> when I turn the battery switch on. Not that it is revalent but hte fuse is
> a Buss 35A. Had my wife look as I turned the batt switch and she saw a
> flash in the fuse holder when I turned the switch. Sounds to me like a hot
> wire is going to ground, but I don't see it. Anyone have any ideas of what
> to do next? Is there a way to chase it with an ohmmeter?
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
> _
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 24 12:41:09 2012
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Wow! three replies in under an hour, all good. Tried Steve's first. Problem
is between ign and lighter, probably at lighter. Now to figure out what is
going on there. Can't be much, though.

Thanks for the help guys.

Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Electrical Short--- SOLVED!
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It was the lighter. Somehow the insides of the lighter had gotten twisted
enough that at one little point there was just enough contact with the
outside of the body to cause the short. Loosened the nut that holds the
assembly together, moved the inside works about 1//32". Problem solved!

Thanks all!

Bob Johnson
BJ8 (cranked and running again)
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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 14:32:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Drive Away Cancer
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Two stories about John Nikas's latest adventure in the media today:

LA Times:  http://tinyurl.com/6qj4oud

Hemmings Blog: http://tinyurl.com/6rx5vlx

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 08:46:13 +1000
To: "E. A. Driver" <edriver@sasktel.net>
Cc: Austin Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Under the Southern Cross
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Thank you Ed. 
Lest we forget
Sincerely. 
Chris 

Sent from my iPhone

On 25/04/2012, at 12:51 AM, "E. A. Driver" <edriver@sasktel.net> wrote:

> A very pleasant ANZAC Day   under the Southern
> Cross
> 
> Warm regards 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 24 16:58:32 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] EBC Greenstuff anti-squeal
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I haven't had any brake noise from EBC Greenstuff pads on my BT7 and 
have used quite a few pairs of Green and Red pads.

My present set have the black backing yet previous ones have had the 
metal shim.
The EBC pads are great.

regards

John Rowe
Perth
1959 BT7
1949 Silverstone

On 24/04/2012 11:03 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote:
> Have just received new EBC pads for my MkII BT7.
>
> In the box was a plastic envelope containing four black adhesive pads/sheets
> (3M 468 MP :- according to Google this stuff is a " High performance 200MP
> pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive on 58 lb polycoated kraft paper liner.
> High temperature formulation, solvent resistance, shear adhesion and HSE,
> low LSE. Use for general industrial joining. 5.0 mil thick with 4.0 mil
> liner.") The instructions say:- "Cut with scissors to shape required and
> apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to
> prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted by the
> hydraulic pistons or the calliper supports".
>
>
>
> These were not supplied with previous pads.
>
>
>
> Does anyone have any experience with these pads?....
>
> Are they effective?
>
> And/or are they more effective than the shaped metal shim type thingies that
> I've used, with some success, until now?
>
> Or maybe I could/should(?) use the 3M pads AND the metal shim type thingies?
>
>
>
> I'll trot off and cut the pads to shape anyhow. I suspect that this stuff
> won't cut too easily if it's that heat resistant...?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 24 20:09:56 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Marvel Mystery Oil
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Hi all,

I've got a 1961 BN7 with 72,000 miles and to my knowledge, it's never 
had an engine rebuild.  I was thinking of adding some Marvel Mystery Oil 
to clean out carbon deposits that I'm sure must exist.   Naturally I'm 
very cautious about what I put in my engine.

Has anyone ever tried this stuff and if so, what were your results?

Thanks in advance,
Steve 61' BN7
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I think its great. I also use it as dash pod oil.

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

 On Apr 24, 2012 7:09 PM, "Steven" <stevesylvia2@comcast.net> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I've got a 1961 BN7 with 72,000 miles and to my knowledge, it's never had
> an engine rebuild.  I was thinking of adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to
> clean out carbon deposits that I'm sure must exist.   Naturally I'm very
> cautious about what I put in my engine.
>
> Has anyone ever tried this stuff and if so, what were your results?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Steve 61' BN7
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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I think its great. I also use it as dash pod oil.

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

 On Apr 24, 2012 7:09 PM, "Steven" <stevesylvia2@comcast.net> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I've got a 1961 BN7 with 72,000 miles and to my knowledge, it's never had
> an engine rebuild.  I was thinking of adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to
> clean out carbon deposits that I'm sure must exist.   Naturally I'm very
> cautious about what I put in my engine.
>
> Has anyone ever tried this stuff and if so, what were your results?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Steve 61' BN7
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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No joke (well, maybe), here in NYC, the Puerto Rican car community swears by it.
I have a bottle I'm going to use in an old jeep engine that hasn't been started in years.

Cheers
JK



------------------------------
On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 10:09 PM EDT Steven wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>I've got a 1961 BN7 with 72,000 miles and to my knowledge, it's never had an engine rebuild.  I was thinking of adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to clean out carbon deposits that I'm sure must exist.   Naturally I'm very cautious about what I put in my engine.
>
>Has anyone ever tried this stuff and if so, what were your results?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Steve 61' BN7
>_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 24 20:52:26 2012
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when i was a kid i remember my dad using it on the farm trucks and tractors, etc.  when he ran out he would just use hydraulic fluid, which he said was about the same thing.  not sure if he knew what he was talking about, but it seemed plausible at the time.   hjim
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From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
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The Mystery Oil label says it's a "Top Cylinder Lubricant". After I noticed "Upper Cylinder Oil" is listed in "Recommended Lubricants" (page Q.1) I use it as a fuel additive.

Al Malin


On Apr 24, 2012, at 10:09 PM, Steven wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> I've got a 1961 BN7 with 72,000 miles and to my knowledge, it's never had an engine rebuild.  I was thinking of adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to clean out carbon deposits that I'm sure must exist.   Naturally I'm very cautious about what I put in my engine.
> 
> Has anyone ever tried this stuff and if so, what were your results?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Steve 61' BN7
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Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Marvel Mystery Oil
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I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago.

I don't know if it's a placebo or if it is actually helpful but I used a
little as a fuel additive in every fill up of my vintage airplane - and
Farmall tractor also - for years.  The Continental engine in the airplane -
and the Farmall engine too - ran great.  So I still have a little left and add
a couple caps full in the Austin Healey gas tank once in a while.  Doesn't
seem to hurt a thing.

Dick Matson / Bj8
----- Original Message -----
From: Steven<mailto:stevesylvia2@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<mailto:healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 7:09 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Marvel Mystery Oil


Hi all,

I've got a 1961 BN7 with 72,000 miles and to my knowledge, it's never
had an engine rebuild.  I was thinking of adding some Marvel Mystery Oil
to clean out carbon deposits that I'm sure must exist.   Naturally I'm
very cautious about what I put in my engine.

Has anyone ever tried this stuff and if so, what were your results?

Thanks in advance,
Steve 61' BN7
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw:  Marvel Mystery Oil
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I buy castor oil in a gallon container (off the internet) and add a couple 
of glugs (must be very precisely measured) to about 5 gallons of gas in my 
vintage racing '62 3000. Depending upon who's asking:

Other Racers: It adds substantial horsepower, improves the handling, and 
reduces wear on the brakes
Me: It smells real good, just like it was in the day when castor oil was in 
the sump.

The main reason I do this is that our sanctioning body here in Texas values 
authenticity of presentation of the race cars. I may not be the fastest, but 
I sure smell authentic (there's a lot of leeway for comments here!).

A side effect I've noticed is that cylinder bore wear, vales, and rings show 
minimal signs of wear. I built up the current engine in the car about 10 
years ago. With 6-7 hard racing weekends a year, the leak down is still less 
than 1%.

Cheers, Fred
a.k.a Team Healey Texas

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dick Matson
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 11:38 PM
To: AustinHealey List
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil

I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago.

I don't know if it's a placebo or if it is actually helpful but I used a
little as a fuel additive in every fill up of my vintage airplane - and
Farmall tractor also - for years.  The Continental engine in the airplane -
and the Farmall engine too - ran great.  So I still have a little left and 
add
a couple caps full in the Austin Healey gas tank once in a while.  Doesn't
seem to hurt a thing.

Dick Matson / Bj8
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
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Fred

Great stuff Fred. I love that smell. Unfortunately using Castrol racing oil
means more frequent engine rebuilds as it gums up the works. Maybe a bit of
castor oil in the fuel is the way to go. Presumably though this will lower
the overall octane level. Or would the effect be insignificant.

Is it 100% castor oil that you buy?

Derek

On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 6:29 AM, Fred Crowley <
fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com> wrote:

> I buy castor oil in a gallon container (off the internet) and add a couple
> of glugs (must be very precisely measured) to about 5 gallons of gas in my
> vintage racing '62 3000. Depending upon who's asking:
>
> Other Racers: It adds substantial horsepower, improves the handling, and
> reduces wear on the brakes
> Me: It smells real good, just like it was in the day when castor oil was
> in the sump.
>
> The main reason I do this is that our sanctioning body here in Texas
> values authenticity of presentation of the race cars. I may not be the
> fastest, but I sure smell authentic (there's a lot of leeway for comments
> here!).
>
> A side effect I've noticed is that cylinder bore wear, vales, and rings
> show minimal signs of wear. I built up the current engine in the car about
> 10 years ago. With 6-7 hard racing weekends a year, the leak down is still
> less than 1%.
>
> Cheers, Fred
> a.k.a Team Healey Texas
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Dick Matson
> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 11:38 PM
> To: AustinHealey List
> Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
>
>
> I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago.
>
> I don't know if it's a placebo or if it is actually helpful but I used a
> little as a fuel additive in every fill up of my vintage airplane - and
> Farmall tractor also - for years.  The Continental engine in the airplane -
> and the Farmall engine too - ran great.  So I still have a little left and
> add
> a couple caps full in the Austin Healey gas tank once in a while.  Doesn't
> seem to hurt a thing.
>
> Dick Matson / Bj8
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
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Yup b 100% castor oil. With respect to octane ratings I donbt have a clue
since Ibm using 110 leaded racing fuel. Maybe somebody with a bit of
chemistry behind them can comment. In chemistry class, I volunteered to light
the bunsen burner.

Fred

From: Derek Job
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 1:48 AM
To: Fred Crowley
Cc: AustinHealey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil

Fred

Great stuff Fred. I love that smell. Unfortunately using Castrol racing oil
means more frequent engine rebuilds as it gums up the works. Maybe a bit of
castor oil in the fuel is the way to go. Presumably though this will lower the
overall octane level. Or would the effect be insignificant.

Is it 100% castor oil that you buy?

Derek


On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 6:29 AM, Fred Crowley
<fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com> wrote:

  I buy castor oil in a gallon container (off the internet) and add a couple
of glugs (must be very precisely measured) to about 5 gallons of gas in my
vintage racing '62 3000. Depending upon who's asking:

  Other Racers: It adds substantial horsepower, improves the handling, and
reduces wear on the brakes
  Me: It smells real good, just like it was in the day when castor oil was in
the sump.

  The main reason I do this is that our sanctioning body here in Texas values
authenticity of presentation of the race cars. I may not be the fastest, but I
sure smell authentic (there's a lot of leeway for comments here!).

  A side effect I've noticed is that cylinder bore wear, vales, and rings show
minimal signs of wear. I built up the current engine in the car about 10 years
ago. With 6-7 hard racing weekends a year, the leak down is still less than
1%.

  Cheers, Fred
  a.k.a Team Healey Texas

  -----Original Message----- From: Dick Matson
  Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 11:38 PM
  To: AustinHealey List
  Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil


  I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago.

  I don't know if it's a placebo or if it is actually helpful but I used a
  little as a fuel additive in every fill up of my vintage airplane - and
  Farmall tractor also - for years.  The Continental engine in the airplane -
  and the Farmall engine too - ran great.  So I still have a little left and
add
  a couple caps full in the Austin Healey gas tank once in a while.  Doesn't
  seem to hurt a thing.

  Dick Matson / Bj8

  _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
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Yup b 100% castor oil. With respect to octane ratings I donbt have a clue
since Ibm using 110 leaded racing fuel. Maybe somebody with a bit of
chemistry behind them can comment. In chemistry class, I volunteered to light
the bunsen burner..

Fred

From: Derek Job
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 1:48 AM
To: Fred Crowley
Cc: AustinHealey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil

Fred

Great stuff Fred. I love that smell. Unfortunately using Castrol racing oil
means more frequent engine rebuilds as it gums up the works. Maybe a bit of
castor oil in the fuel is the way to go. Presumably though this will lower the
overall octane level. Or would the effect be insignificant.

Is it 100% castor oil that you buy?

Derek


On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 6:29 AM, Fred Crowley
<fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com> wrote:

  I buy castor oil in a gallon container (off the internet) and add a couple
of glugs (must be very precisely measured) to about 5 gallons of gas in my
vintage racing '62 3000. Depending upon who's asking:

  Other Racers: It adds substantial horsepower, improves the handling, and
reduces wear on the brakes
  Me: It smells real good, just like it was in the day when castor oil was in
the sump.

  The main reason I do this is that our sanctioning body here in Texas values
authenticity of presentation of the race cars. I may not be the fastest, but I
sure smell authentic (there's a lot of leeway for comments here!).

  A side effect I've noticed is that cylinder bore wear, vales, and rings show
minimal signs of wear. I built up the current engine in the car about 10 years
ago. With 6-7 hard racing weekends a year, the leak down is still less than
1%.

  Cheers, Fred
  a.k.a Team Healey Texas

  -----Original Message----- From: Dick Matson
  Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 11:38 PM
  To: AustinHealey List
  Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil


  I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago.

  I don't know if it's a placebo or if it is actually helpful but I used a
  little as a fuel additive in every fill up of my vintage airplane - and
  Farmall tractor also - for years.  The Continental engine in the airplane -
  and the Farmall engine too - ran great.  So I still have a little left and
add
  a couple caps full in the Austin Healey gas tank once in a while.  Doesn't
  seem to hurt a thing.

  Dick Matson / Bj8
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	<fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
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> I'm with you Fred.
> I put castor oil in my fuel too, when I'm at the track. Have since 1985
> My dad was a real fan of castor oil when we were kids. Fix any ailment.
> By the tablespoon.... Sicker you were, more you got.... And he bought glass
bottles of the stuff. Must have been on special...
> That's what I still use. Dads new old stock...  Glass bottles!!
> And I can tell you. I'd rather the castor oil coming out of my Healey
exhaust, rather than mine.
> And the best smell??  The Healey's everytime!!
> ;-)
> And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I
still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't want in
your fuel tank!
> Methylated Spirits.
> Best
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 25/04/2012, at 5:29 PM, "Fred Crowley" <fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com>
wrote:
>
>> Yup b 100% castor oil. With respect to octane ratings I donbt have a
clue
>> since Ibm using 110 leaded racing fuel....
>> Fred
>>
>> From: Derek Job
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 1:48 AM
>> To: Fred Crowley
>> Cc: AustinHealey List
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
>>
>> Fred
>>
>> Great stuff Fred. I love that smell. Unfortunately using Castrol racing
oil
>> means more frequent engine rebuilds as it gums up the works. Maybe a bit
of
>> castor oil in the fuel is the way to go. Presumably though this will lower
the
>> overall octane level. Or would the effect be insignificant.
>>
>> Is it 100% castor oil that you buy?
>>
>> Derek
>> On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 6:29 AM, Fred Crowley
>> <fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com> wrote:
>>
>> I buy castor oil in a gallon container (off the internet) and add a couple
>> of glugs (must be very precisely measured) to about 5 gallons of gas in my
>> vintage racing '62 3000.

>>  smells real good, just like it was in the day when castor oil was in
>> the sump.

>>  I may not be the fastest, but I
>> sure smell authentic (there's a lot of leeway for comments here!).
>>
>> A side effect I've noticed is that cylinder bore wear, vales, and rings
show
>> minimal signs of wear. I built up the current engine in the car about 10
years
>> ago. With 6-7 hard racing weekends a year, the leak down is still less
than
>> 1%.
>> Cheers, Fred
>> a.k.a Team Healey Texas
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Dick Matson
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 11:38 PM
>> To: AustinHealey List
>> Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
>>
>> I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago.
>> add
>> a couple caps full in the Austin Healey gas tank once in a while.  Doesn't
>> seem to hurt a thing.
>>
>> Dick
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Op 25-4-2012 12:56, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>> And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I
> still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't want in
> your fuel tank!
>> >  Methylated Spirits.
>> >  Best
>> >  Chris
>> >

And then you are all complaining about the modern fuels like E10!!!!! or 
other petrol/alcohol mixtures what damage they can do.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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Chris,

How much is 'some'?

I might give this a go.

Derek

On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 12:15 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Op 25-4-2012 12:56, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>
>  And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I
>>>
>> still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't
>> want in
>> your fuel tank!
>>
>>> >  Methylated Spirits.
>>> >  Best
>>> >  Chris
>>> >
>>>
>>
> And then you are all complaining about the modern fuels like E10!!!!! or
> other petrol/alcohol mixtures what damage they can do.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> --
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Dorpsstraat 183
> 2995XG Heerjansdam
> T: 078-677 1233
> E: coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
> Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
> Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
> www.jensenholland.nl
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 21:36:18 +1000
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: AustinHealey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd:  Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
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Kees, half a cup of metho in 50 or 60 litres of 110 avgas is nothing like
running an engine originally designed for 100 octane leaded fuel, on 91 octane
E10
And that's imperial octane. Not US.
Sincerely.
Chris


Sent from my iPhone

On 25/04/2012, at 9:15 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

>
> Op 25-4-2012 12:56, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>>> And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I
>> still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't want
in
>> your fuel tank!
>>> >  Methylated Spirits.
>>> >  Best
>>> >  Chris
>>> >
>
> And then you are all complaining about the modern fuels like E10!!!!! or
other petrol/alcohol mixtures what damage they can do.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> --
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Dorpsstraat 183
> 2995XG
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 05:41:16 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
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A  dainty china tea cup,  in a full tank, once a year
Seriously.
Or A kitchen measure of one cup.
But I use one of my mothers old doulton china tea cups, which the handle has
broken off!!!
;-)
Chris


Sent from my iPhone

On 25/04/2012, at 9:27 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Chris,
>
> How much is 'some'?
>
> I might give this a go.
>
> Derek
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 12:15 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
> Op 25-4-2012 12:56, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>
> And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I
> still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't want
in
> your fuel tank!
> >  Methylated Spirits.
> >  Best
> >  Chris
> >
>
> And then you are all complaining about the modern fuels like E10!!!!! or
other petrol/alcohol mixtures what damage they can do.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> --
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Dorpsstraat 183
> 2995XG Heerjansdam
> T: 078-677 1233
> E: coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
> Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
> Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
> www.jensenholland.nl
>
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 06:29:12 2012
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Cc: AustinHealey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd:  Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
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Chris,
It is not the running of the engine that is affected, but much more the 
side affects of alcohol in petrol, like corrosion of aluminium alloys, 
deterioration of rubber parts, loosening up dirt in tanks etc. I always 
hear Yanks complaining about.
I never have experienced any of those troubles at all when e.g. lead 
free petrol ( 5% alcohol) was introduced in the 70's, apart from the odd 
fuel hose, or in these days  when I use E10 in Germany in my Jensen 
Healey or every day car.
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 25-4-2012 13:36, Chris Dimmock schreef:
> Kees, half a cup of metho in 50 or 60 litres of 110 avgas is nothing like running an engine originally designed for 100 octane leaded fuel, on 91 octane E10
> And that's imperial octane. Not US.
> Sincerely.
> Chris
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 25/04/2012, at 9:15 PM, Oudesluys<coudesluijs@chello.nl>  wrote:
>
>> Op 25-4-2012 12:56, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>>>> And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I
>>> still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't want in
>>> your fuel tank!
>>>>>   Methylated Spirits.
>>>>>   Best
>>>>>   Chris
>>>>>
>> And then you are all complaining about the modern fuels like E10!!!!! or other petrol/alcohol mixtures what damage they can do.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>> -- 
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> Dorpsstraat 183
>> 2995XG
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4957 - datum van uitgifte: 04/24/12
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 06:42:40 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
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Hyacinth Bucket would be appalled.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 7:41 AM
To: Derek Job
Cc: AustinHealey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil

A  dainty china tea cup,  in a full tank, once a year Seriously.
Or A kitchen measure of one cup.
But I use one of my mothers old doulton china tea cups, which the handle has
broken off!!!
;-)
Chris


Sent from my iPhone

On 25/04/2012, at 9:27 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Chris,
>
> How much is 'some'?
>
> I might give this a go.
>
> Derek
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw:  Marvel Mystery Oil
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Oh yes, I frequently enjoy a glassful over ice with a dash of bitters and a
celery stalk...
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil

I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago.
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:59:08 +1000
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: AustinHealey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd:  Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
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Kees, With all due respect, E10, as I understand it,  is 10% ethanol.
i.e. 5 litres of ethanol in every 50 litre tank of petrol. In every tank full.
I'm sure at that level it would cause issues.

I said one cup of metho in one tank of avgas 110 octane - once a year.

And you have to use a Royal Doulton teacup. Proper British. ;-)

Heres an analogy - as much as i like a drink, I'm sure we can all see the
"health" differences between drinking 7 bottles of rum/scotch/ whatever every
time we fill our Healey with fuel; versus drinking 1/5 - 1/4 of a bottle once
a year!!
;-)
Chris
PS. It doesn't have to be Doulton. Any fine China will suffice. ;-)
Sent from my iPhone

On 25/04/2012, at 10:29 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Chris,
> It is not the running of the engine that is affected, but much more the side
affects of alcohol in petrol, like corrosion of aluminium alloys,
deterioration of rubber parts, loosening up dirt in tanks etc. I always hear
Yanks complaining about.
> I never have experienced any of those troubles at all when e.g. lead free
petrol ( 5% alcohol) was introduced in the 70's, apart from the odd fuel hose,
or in these days  when I use E10 in Germany in my Jensen Healey or every day
car.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 25-4-2012 13:36, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>> Kees, half a cup of metho in 50 or 60 litres of 110 avgas is nothing like
running an engine originally designed for 100 octane leaded fuel, on 91 octane
E10
>> And that's imperial octane. Not US.
>> Sincerely.
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On 25/04/2012, at 9:15 PM, Oudesluys<coudesluijs@chello.nl>  wrote:
>>
>>> Op 25-4-2012 12:56, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>>>>> And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank,
I
>>>> still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't
want in
>>>> your fuel tank!
>>>>>>  Methylated Spirits.
>>>>>>  Best
>>>>>>  Chris
>>>>>>
>>> And then you are all complaining about the modern fuels like E10!!!!! or
other petrol/alcohol mixtures what damage they can do.
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>> NL
>>>
>>> --
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>> Dorpsstraat 183
>>> 2995XG
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4957 - datum van uitgifte:
04/24/12
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 06:07:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
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"It's 'Bouquet"!" 

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 4/25/12, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

From: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil
To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <austin.healey@gmail.com>, "'Derek Job'"
<derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: "'AustinHealey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 25, 2012, 8:33 AM

Hyacinth Bucket would be appalled.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

http://www.healey6.com
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Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250
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  A friend of mine has a 1963 Daimler SP-250 for sale, a quirky looking 
car, the only one I have ever seen. Fiberglass panels, 4 valve hemi V-8 
with 2 SU's, 4 wheel disc brakes, interior looks like a bunch of Healey 
components. It is in rough shape, but strange enough to be interesting.
  This car does not have a transmission in it, and from what I have 
read, it used a TR-3, or similar gearbox.

  My question is...any chance a Healey gearbox would bolt up to the 
engine?

  Regards,
  Gordy
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Hi Gordy,
I own a SP 250 aside my Healeys and I can a assure you the Healey gearbox
wouldn`t fit. As far as I know there is a chance to modify a Triumph TR (TR4
or TR6) gearbox to make it fit. Or a Borg/Warner automatic as fitted to the
Daimler 250 limousines. SP 250 police cars had those fitted.
There is a very good Daimler forum were you can also place your question:
http://www.dlcentre.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=3
Btw. The SP250 uses the 9" BN1 clutch.
The SP250 easily outdistances any stock Healey in acceleration.
Regards,

Josef Eckert
Konigswintzer/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von ggilliam@usol.com
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. April 2012 19:44
An: Healeys
Betreff: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250

  A friend of mine has a 1963 Daimler SP-250 for sale, a quirky looking car,
the only one I have ever seen. Fiberglass panels, 4 valve hemi V-8 with 2
SU's, 4 wheel disc brakes, interior looks like a bunch of Healey components.
It is in rough shape, but strange enough to be interesting.
  This car does not have a transmission in it, and from what I have read, it
used a TR-3, or similar gearbox.

  My question is...any chance a Healey gearbox would bolt up to the engine?

  Regards,
  Gordy
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 12:48:33 2012
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From: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
To: "Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com" <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>,
	"ggilliam@usol.com" <ggilliam@usol.com>, "Healeys@autox.team.net"
	<Healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 18:42:08 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250
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Didnt these use a moss box?


-----Original message-----
From: "Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com" <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
To: "ggilliam@usol.com" <ggilliam@usol.com>, "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2012 18:04:34 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250

Hi Gordy,
I own a SP 250 aside my Healeys and I can a assure you the Healey gearbox
wouldn`t fit. As far as I know there is a chance to modify a Triumph TR (TR4
or TR6) gearbox to make it fit. Or a Borg/Warner automatic as fitted to the
Daimler 250 limousines. SP 250 police cars had those fitted.
There is a very good Daimler forum were you can also place your question:
http://www.dlcentre.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=3
Btw. The SP250 uses the 9" BN1 clutch.
The SP250 easily outdistances any stock Healey in acceleration.
Regards,

Josef Eckert
Konigswintzer/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von ggilliam@usol.com
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. April 2012 19:44
An: Healeys
Betreff: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250

  A friend of mine has a 1963 Daimler SP-250 for sale, a quirky looking car,
the only one I have ever seen. Fiberglass panels, 4 valve hemi V-8 with 2
SU's, 4 wheel disc brakes, interior looks like a bunch of Healey components.
It is in rough shape, but strange enough to be interesting.
  This car does not have a transmission in it, and from what I have read, it
used a TR-3, or similar gearbox.

  My question is...any chance a Healey gearbox would bolt up to the engine?

  Regards,
  Gordy
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 13:36:05 2012
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From: <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
To: <JPayne@ThorCon.net>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 21:28:33 +0200
Thread-Topic: Daimler SP-250
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Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250
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Jaguars had Moss boxes. But when the SP 250 was designed, Daimler was an independent manufacturer. Daimler simply copied for their SP 250 many parts of the TR3a as the chassis, suspension, gearbox and other parts .  1961 Daimler was bought from Jaguar and the Daimler V8 engine of the SP250 was also implemented into the Jaguar MK2 limousine and sold as Daimler 250 or V8.

Josef Eckert

Von: Jonas Payne [mailto:JPayne@ThorCon.net]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. April 2012 20:42
An: Eckert, Josef; ggilliam@usol.com; Healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250

Didnt these use a moss box?


-----Original message-----
From: "Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com<mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>" <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com<mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>>
To: "ggilliam@usol.com<mailto:ggilliam@usol.com>" <ggilliam@usol.com<mailto:ggilliam@usol.com>>, "Healeys@autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net>" <Healeys@autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net>>
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2012 18:04:34 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250
Hi Gordy,
I own a SP 250 aside my Healeys and I can a assure you the Healey gearbox
wouldn`t fit. As far as I know there is a chance to modify a Triumph TR (TR4
or TR6) gearbox to make it fit. Or a Borg/Warner automatic as fitted to the
Daimler 250 limousines. SP 250 police cars had those fitted.
There is a very good Daimler forum were you can also place your question:
http://www.dlcentre.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=3
Btw. The SP250 uses the 9" BN1 clutch.
The SP250 easily outdistances any stock Healey in acceleration.
Regards,

Josef Eckert
Konigswintzer/Germany
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 16:00:04 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 Steering Wheels
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One thing I have noted that could be useful information to anybody working
on an early adjustable steering Healey Hundred...the original adjustable
steering wheel with the fatter hub section and small Bluemels locking ring
is the same.

Rich
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 16:44:53 2012
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From: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250
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Just a thought

Moss boxes ended up in a lot of orphans including Jensens, Bristols, Morgan +4 and +8  and others.  Would seem a better match for the HP and torque of a V8 than any of triumphbs contemporary offerings?

The comment about the healey clutch/pressure plate usage was interesting too b itbs common to the Morgan +4bs as well


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com [mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 12:29 PM
To: Jonas Payne; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Daimler SP-250

Jaguars had Moss boxes. But when the SP 250 was designed, Daimler was an independent manufacturer. Daimler simply copied for their SP 250 many parts of the TR3a as the chassis, suspension, gearbox and other parts .  1961 Daimler was bought from Jaguar and the Daimler V8 engine of the SP250 was also implemented into the Jaguar MK2 limousine and sold as Daimler 250 or V8.

Josef Eckert

Von: Jonas Payne [mailto:JPayne@ThorCon.net]<mailto:[mailto:JPayne@ThorCon.net]>
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. April 2012 20:42
An: Eckert, Josef; ggilliam@usol.com<mailto:ggilliam@usol.com>; Healeys@autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net>
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250

Didnt these use a moss box?


-----Original message-----
From: "Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com<mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>" <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com<mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>>
To: "ggilliam@usol.com<mailto:ggilliam@usol.com>" <ggilliam@usol.com<mailto:ggilliam@usol.com>>, "Healeys@autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net>" <Healeys@autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net>>
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2012 18:04:34 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250
Hi Gordy,
I own a SP 250 aside my Healeys and I can a assure you the Healey gearbox
wouldn`t fit. As far as I know there is a chance to modify a Triumph TR (TR4
or TR6) gearbox to make it fit. Or a Borg/Warner automatic as fitted to the
Daimler 250 limousines. SP 250 police cars had those fitted.
There is a very good Daimler forum were you can also place your question:
http://www.dlcentre.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=3
Btw. The SP250 uses the 9" BN1 clutch.
The SP250 easily outdistances any stock Healey in acceleration.
Regards,

Josef Eckert
Konigswintzer/Germany
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Subject: [Healeys] 100 Engine block ! ! !
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Block-Austin-Healey-100-/140741673568?_trksid=p4340.m503&_trkparms=algo%3DRIC.CFNP%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D180863806998%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7982940035212437156

OR

*http://tinyurl.com/74qlcgg*

Close to me if shipping help required <G> ! !  Also, scroll down above 
page for MORE 100 'stuff' ! !

NFI, NO knowledge of products NOR seller (could be investigated tho <G>).

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 02:50:37 2012
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From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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Subject: [Healeys] Accu Spark kit
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Hi Guys, has anyone had experience with the Accu Spark distributor 
conversion for pointless operation on a BT7? I bought a kit out of 
curiosity, which was quite cheep and found that the firing ring that 
fits over the distributor cam, is quite a loose fit and can rotate a 
little on the cam, so I can't see how it could maintain regular timing. 
Has anyone successfully used this kit? The concept looked good as there 
are basically no modifications or extra wiring, and the sender unit fits 
well on the points plate.
Cheers
Larry
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 03:04:24 2012
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:04:16 +1000
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Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Accu Spark kit
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Hey Larry,
No. But I too have watched with interest. At the moment, their "replacement"
distributors look like they are great value, but they seem to only offer one
cam. 16 degrees.
That's 32 engine degrees. That means you can add 2 - 4 static. Won't let you
start on a modern fuel with a modified engine.
Look on eBay. Lots of dizzy graphs. But all the same...
I emailed when they first came out, but parts aren't interchangeable with
original Lucas.
Can't help with the electronic side.
I really thought they were onto something. But I think it's just been tweaked
to be proprietary and not really interchangeable.
Bet it's not loose in their version of a Lucas dizzy....
Try Pertronics. They do positive earth too.
;-)
Chris


Sent from my iPhone

On 26/04/2012, at 6:44 PM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> Hi Guys, has anyone had experience with the Accu Spark distributor
conversion for pointless operation on a BT7? I bought a kit out of curiosity,
which was quite cheep and found that the firing ring that fits over the
distributor cam, is quite a loose fit and can rotate a little on the cam, so I
can't see how it could maintain regular timing. Has anyone successfully used
this kit? The concept looked good as there are basically no modifications or
extra wiring, and the sender unit fits well........
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 03:21:05 2012
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These are cheap and cheerful units. I have not heard of failures yet, 
but the loose fit seems to occur sometimes. Just apply a little sealant 
and rotate the ring until it hits the cam properly and secure it. Let 
the sealant cure fully. This will centre the ring and keep it fixed on 
the cam without play. It is more or less the same system as from 
Petronix and Luminition.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 26-4-2012 10:44, Larry Varley schreef:
> Hi Guys, has anyone had experience with the Accu Spark distributor 
> conversion for pointless operation on a BT7? I bought a kit out of 
> curiosity, which was quite cheep and found that the firing ring that 
> fits over the distributor cam, is quite a loose fit and can rotate a 
> little on the cam, so I can't see how it could maintain regular 
> timing. Has anyone successfully used this kit? The concept looked good 
> as there are basically no modifications or extra wiring, and the 
> sender unit fits well on the points plate.
> Cheers
> Larry
> _______________________________________________
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>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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Subject: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals
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Hi, 

Can someone kindly remind me of the proper/easiest way to fit the seals into
my MkII BT7's callipers? I'm referring to the rubber boot things that go
into the outer groove within the bore and the groove around the top of the
piston.

Likewise, don't I recall that the inner seal was slightly tapered? My new
ones are square in cross section.

Simon
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Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 10:58:55 -0700
To: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals
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I fit them to the bottom of piston then fit them to the caliper and 
push the piston into the bore if I recall correctly.

John

At 06:06 PM 4/26/2012 +0100, Simon Lachlan wrote:
>Hi,
>
>Can someone kindly remind me of the proper/easiest way to fit the seals into
>my MkII BT7's callipers? I'm referring to the rubber boot things that go
>into the outer groove within the bore and the groove around the top of the
>piston.
>
>Likewise, don't I recall that the inner seal was slightly tapered? My new
>ones are square in cross section.
>
>Simon
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From: <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
To: <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 20:10:56 +0200
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals
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Hi Simon,
I have just done it with mine. Fit the rubber boot first with its lip to the
caliper. When the lip is properly in the groove, then push the piston in the
caliper and when its nearly at the end of travel the lip automatically jumps
in the groove of the piston. The most fiddling is to get the first step done -
rubber boot to caliper and to get the piston in passing the inner rubber
sealing ring. I use some Penrite rubber grease and grease the rubber boot and
sealing ring before fitting. You need most of the time for the first one to
get the trick.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Simon Lachlan
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 26. April 2012 19:06
An: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals

Hi,

Can someone kindly remind me of the proper/easiest way to fit the seals into
my MkII BT7's callipers? I'm referring to the rubber boot things that go into
the outer groove within the bore and the groove around the top of the piston.

Likewise, don't I recall that the inner seal was slightly tapered? My new ones
are square in cross section.

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 12:32:54 2012
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I should have asked this when it was the hot topic of the week. I noticed that
nearly everyone who had got their Healey over the ton had mentioned the too
light front end except the one who got to 160 something. Anyone know what that
person did to hold down front? The only thing I can think of that might work
would be a spoiler mounted on top of shroud in front of hood ( pref removeable
) so air pressure would hold front down. Yes-no?
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Subject: [Healeys] Rear end mods
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Was at mechanic's shop this a.m. to see leaf springs gone, coil over Koni's in
and calipers and discs in. BEAUTIFUL Took pics and will post w/total cost
soon. Anxious to try it out.
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From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
Subject: [Healeys] e:  fitting piston/caliper seals
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Hi Simon,

Josef's done a good job of explaining  this procedure, but I'd add a caution.
After having done this job a number of times over the years, I found 
the last set I did kept wanting to pinch the edge of the outer seal 
before it could slide up to the groove in the piston. I'd never had 
that happen before, and I wonder if some of the new seals don't quite 
have an even, round edge. It's worth having a good look at the edge 
of the outer seal before doing the installation.

Stephen, BJ8
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 +
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On my race '62 3000, at Texas World Speedway, I regularly get the car up to 
around 130 mph at the end of the start/finish straight. I've lowered the 
front end about 1 1/2 inches and the rear about 3/8", use competition 
springs up front and comp leaf springs in back (D. Welch). Rock solid 
(relatively speaking - it is an old english bus after all). Lowering the car 
looks good and has stabilized the car at speed, but of course this has only 
made ground clearance even worse. No problem at the track, but one needs to 
be more conscious of obstructions on the street. An obvious question to me 
tho', do y'all want to do a 100mph with a street car. Most speed limits top 
out @70 (75 in west Texas), so I would think that a little better stability 
over a 100 would be a non-issue at legal speeds (be aware of course that 
I've sucked up a lot of 110 octane fuel over the years so my perspective 
might be a tad different)????? Good tires and a solid suspension (good 
shocks, springs, alignment and camber) would probably give a better return 
than coping with a lower ground clearance.

Y'all take care, eh?
Fred
a.k. Team Healey Texas

-----Original Message----- 
From: EDWARD ANDERSON
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 1:23 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 +

I should have asked this when it was the hot topic of the week. I noticed 
that
nearly everyone who had got their Healey over the ton had mentioned the too
light front end except the one who got to 160 something. Anyone know what 
that
person did to hold down front? The only thing I can think of that might work
would be a spoiler mounted on top of shroud in front of hood ( pref 
removeable
) so air pressure would hold front down. Yes-no?
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Subject: [Healeys] Photos of my new Healey
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Hi all,

I've created a page on my website for my new car. Photos and full spec can
be found here

http://www.healeysix.net/My%20Fast%20Road%20100-Six.htm

Next up is a fixed back sports seat with head restraint and a breather
catch tank. Then I'm almost ready to make a fool of myself in competition!

Derek
www.healeysix.net
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Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 20:02:03 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Fred Crowley <fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 +
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"Y'all take care, eh?" 


Canadexan, or a Texanadian? 

Canooxan? Texanook? 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


On my race '62 3000, at Texas World Speedway, I regularly get the car up to 
around 130 mph at the end of the start/finish straight. I've lowered the 
front end about 1 1/2 inches and the rear about 3/8", use competition 
springs up front and comp leaf springs in back (D. Welch). Rock solid 
(relatively speaking - it is an old english bus after all). Lowering the car 
looks good and has stabilized the car at speed, but of course this has only 
made ground clearance even worse. No problem at the track, but one needs to 
be more conscious of obstructions on the street. An obvious question to me 
tho', do y'all want to do a 100mph with a street car. Most speed limits top 
out @70 (75 in west Texas), so I would think that a little better stability 
over a 100 would be a non-issue at legal speeds (be aware of course that 
I've sucked up a lot of 110 octane fuel over the years so my perspective 
might be a tad different)????? Good tires and a solid suspension (good 
shocks, springs, alignment and camber) would probably give a better return 
than coping with a lower ground clearance. 

Y'all take care, eh? 
Fred 
a.k. Team Healey Texas 
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From: Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 +
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C'mon, lots of 80 mph stuff in West Texas.   Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM


> From: fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 14:10:14 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 +
>
> On my race '62 3000, at Texas World Speedway, I regularly get the car up to
> around 130 mph at the end of the start/finish straight. I've lowered the
> front end about 1 1/2 inches and the rear about 3/8", use competition
> springs up front and comp leaf springs in back (D. Welch). Rock solid
> (relatively speaking - it is an old english bus after all). Lowering the car
> looks good and has stabilized the car at speed, but of course this has only
> made ground clearance even worse. No problem at the track, but one needs to
> be more conscious of obstructions on the street. An obvious question to me
> tho', do y'all want to do a 100mph with a street car. Most speed limits top
> out @70 (75 in west Texas), so I would think that a little better stability
> over a 100 would be a non-issue at legal speeds (be aware of course that
> I've sucked up a lot of 110 octane fuel over the years so my perspective
> might be a tad different)????? Good tires and a solid suspension (good
> shocks, springs, alignment and camber) would probably give a better return
> than coping with a lower ground clearance.
>
> Y'all take care, eh?
> Fred
> a.k. Team Healey Texas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: EDWARD ANDERSON
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 1:23 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 +
>
> I should have asked this when it was the hot topic of the week. I noticed
> that
> nearly everyone who had got their Healey over the ton had mentioned the too
> light front end except the one who got to 160 something. Anyone know what
> that
> person did to hold down front? The only thing I can think of that might
work
> would be a spoiler mounted on top of shroud in front of hood ( pref
> removeable
> ) so air pressure would hold front down. Yes-no?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dos_gusanos@msn.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals
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All caliper seals are square section o-rings. They get that tapered look after
they have been in use for a long time. It is the deflection of the seal, and
its return to it's normal shape, that pulls the piston back after you let off
the brakes. After many years the seal becomes permanently deformed.

The trick for getting the boot to open up and fit around the piston (after the
initial fitting of the boot lip into the caliper bore) is to apply air, at a
very low pressure, to inflate the boot as you press the piston into the boot.
Of course, you have to first block off the other side by installing a piston
and clamping it in place so it doesn't blow blow out when you apply the air.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> From: simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 18:06:00 +0100
> Subject: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals
>
> Hi,
>
> Can someone kindly remind me of the proper/easiest way to fit the seals
into
> my MkII BT7's callipers? I'm referring to the rubber boot things that go
> into the outer groove within the bore and the groove around the top of the
> piston.
>
> Likewise, don't I recall that the inner seal was slightly tapered? My new
> ones are square in cross section.
>
> Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 18:59:21 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spitting again
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Sometimes oil mist gets up into the distributor and affects the points  ....
creating a misfire.  A simple check is to take a business card and drag it
through the points when they are closed. If you see a smudge on the card, it
is oil. That will temporarily fix the problem.  This actually happens
frequently when you use  synthetic oil as it can get past the bushings and up
into the top of the distributor and cause misfiring. .  A good fix for that is
to remove the distributor, invert it, and spray brake clean up into it to
flush out the oil film and residue.


Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 10:25:30 -0400
> From: tomfelts@windstream.net
> To: javrugtman@htcnet.org; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spitting again
>
> Thanks John---I forgot to mention that I also changed all plugs--------
>
> I guess it could be a fuel starvation problem---maybe the FP is working
intermittently.
>
> tom
> ---- John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org> wrote:
>
> =============
> Bad plug?
>
> On 4/22/2012 8:32 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
> > Thought I had discovered why my BJ8 was missing.  I had found a stuck pin
in the dist cap and grease on the rotor contact, so cleaned everything up and
miss stopped------for a while--then a little more missing.  Replaced the dist
cap and all wires, rotor---ran great for a while then missing.  Now missing
pretty bad.
> >
> > So far:
> > I have replaced the rotor--no change
> > Replaced the dist cap--NC
> > replaced the wires--NC
> > Replaced the end caps on the wires---NC
> > Replaced the coil---NC (Lucus Sport)
> >
> > Havent replaced the Pertronix (10 + years) since, as I understand it, when
they go it is all of a sudden and you get no spark.
> >
> > Anyone have any ideas as to what to persue next------I hear the FP pumping
so assume there is sufficient fuel to the carbs.
> >
> > Also---I have checked the float bowls and they have fuel in them and are
not stuck.
> >
> > Thanks
> > tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 19:30:23 2012
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I like how the heater valve is right above the distributor on certain cars,
not that I'd want to speak ill of MGBs or anything.  A little leaking water
can cause problems.

As for the BJ8 I mentioned the other day, it is running fine now, after
I replaced the points, condenser, rotor and cap on the Mallory dual point.
They are supposed to run better after I work on them, you know.

mjb.
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Photos of my new Healey
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THAT IS SOME GOOD LOOKIN 100-SIX!!!!!


> Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 20:23:11 +0100
> From: derek.c.job@gmail.com
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Photos of my new Healey
>
> Hi all,
>
> I've created a page on my website for my new car. Photos and full spec can
> be found here
>
> http://www.healeysix.net/My%20Fast%20Road%20100-Six.htm
>
> Next up is a fixed back sports seat with head restraint and a breather
> catch tank. Then I'm almost ready to make a fool of myself in competition!
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
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From: "Fred Crowley" <fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 +
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Nope, just part of the bEh?b Team.

Fred

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 3:02 PM
To: Fred Crowley
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 +

"Y'all take care, eh?"


Canadexan, or a Texanadian?

Canooxan?  Texanook?


Bob


--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---


On my race '62 3000, at Texas World Speedway, I regularly get the car up to
around 130 mph at the end of the start/finish straight. I've lowered the
front end about 1 1/2 inches and the rear about 3/8", use competition
springs up front and comp leaf springs in back (D. Welch). Rock solid
(relatively speaking - it is an old english bus after all). Lowering the car
looks good and has stabilized the car at speed, but of course this has only
made ground clearance even worse. No problem at the track, but one needs to
be more conscious of obstructions on the street. An obvious question to me
tho', do y'all want to do a 100mph with a street car. Most speed limits top
out @70 (75 in west Texas), so I would think that a little better stability
over a 100 would be a non-issue at legal speeds (be aware of course that
I've sucked up a lot of 110 octane fuel over the years so my perspective
might be a tad different)????? Good tires and a solid suspension (good
shocks, springs, alignment and camber) would probably give a better return
than coping with a lower ground clearance.

Y'all take care, eh?
Fred
a.k. Team Healey Texas
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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 06:47:03 +0200
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals
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One method of fitting the boot is to first slide it over the piston and then
fit the boot lip into the caliper bore. That way it's very simple to press
home the piston with the boot in the correct  position both in the caliper and
and around the piston.

Magnus Karlsson

www.concourshealeys.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 23:12:17 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals
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I couldn't get the first set I bought to fit no matter what I tried, got a 
second set and they went in easy, when I got the second set it was clear the 
first was not very well made, I believe the 2nd set which fit well was 
Beck-Arnley

Greg Lemon
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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 16:58:37 +1000
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Photos of my new Healey
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And what a fine looking car it is!
Happy motoring
Larry

On 27/04/2012 5:23 AM, Derek Job wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I've created a page on my website for my new car. Photos and full spec can
> be found here
>
> http://www.healeysix.net/My%20Fast%20Road%20100-Six.htm
>
> Next up is a fixed back sports seat with head restraint and a breather
> catch tank. Then I'm almost ready to make a fool of myself in competition!
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
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From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] 3.54 Ring & Pinion has arrived
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General Info for those that have purchased the 3.54:1 Ring & Pinion from Dan
Lempert.  I received mine via Fed Ex yesterday afternoon (April 26th).  Dan
had emailed a request to everyone that placed an order to confirm their
shipping address to him.    


Ron Mitchell
Goodrich, MI
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Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells
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Oh Wise Ones,

I'm starting on the restoration of my very early BN1 (#174). This is a very
original and sound, apparently low mileage but badly weathered car. During
the dis-assembly process I took about 500 photos of details to aid in the
reassembly.
I was showing these to a very patient and Rich Chrysler yesterday and he
commented that the wheel wells appeared to all have been originally painted
white which seemed odd. Upon closer examination it appears that this may
have been original because the white paint was only on body components
which would have been installed at Jensens and not on mechanical components
which would have been installed later at Longbridge.
This is a Healey Blue car and I'm wondering if this may actually have been
done in the factory. It is a pretty rudimentary "quick shot" with no
evidence of masking but no white on things like the steering column, nuts
holding the turn signal relay, the original front shocks, the real bump
boxes or springs, etc etc.
Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this on a very early Healey
Blue BN1?


-- 
Michael Salter

        Check My Blog
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
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Mike

Does your car have an all aluminium body? Weren't the first 200 or so
production models still bodied that way


Derek
www.healeysix.net



On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 2:31 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> Oh Wise Ones,
>
> I'm starting on the restoration of my very early BN1 (#174). This is a very
> original and sound, apparently low mileage but badly weathered car. During
> the dis-assembly process I took about 500 photos of details to aid in the
> reassembly.
> I was showing these to a very patient and Rich Chrysler yesterday and he
> commented that the wheel wells appeared to all have been originally painted
> white which seemed odd. Upon closer examination it appears that this may
> have been original because the white paint was only on body components
> which would have been installed at Jensens and not on mechanical components
> which would have been installed later at Longbridge.
> This is a Healey Blue car and I'm wondering if this may actually have been
> done in the factory. It is a pretty rudimentary "quick shot" with no
> evidence of masking but no white on things like the steering column, nuts
> holding the turn signal relay, the original front shocks, the real bump
> boxes or springs, etc etc.
> Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this on a very early Healey
> Blue BN1?
>
>
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>        Check My Blog
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Hi Derek,
No this car has steel fenders and doors but aluminum boot and bonnet skins
(steel frames).
I'm by no means an expert on these early cars but as I understand it only
the first 20 (pre-production) cars had all aluminum skins.

-- 
Michael Salter

        Check My Blog
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/


On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 10:02 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Mike
>
> Does your car have an all aluminium body? Weren't the first 200 or so
> production models still bodied that way
>
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 2:31 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Oh Wise Ones,
>>
>> I'm starting on the restoration of my very early BN1 (#174). This is a
>> very
>> original and sound, apparently low mileage but badly weathered car. During
>> the dis-assembly process I took about 500 photos of details to aid in the
>> reassembly.
>> I was showing these to a very patient and Rich Chrysler yesterday and he
>> commented that the wheel wells appeared to all have been originally
>> painted
>> white which seemed odd. Upon closer examination it appears that this may
>> have been original because the white paint was only on body components
>> which would have been installed at Jensens and not on mechanical
>> components
>> which would have been installed later at Longbridge.
>> This is a Healey Blue car and I'm wondering if this may actually have been
>> done in the factory. It is a pretty rudimentary "quick shot" with no
>> evidence of masking but no white on things like the steering column, nuts
>> holding the turn signal relay, the original front shocks, the real bump
>> boxes or springs, etc etc.
>> Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this on a very early Healey
>> Blue BN1?
>>
>>
>> --
>> Michael Salter
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Thanks Michael,

I knew about the 20 pre-production cars but read somewhere that the very
early production cars continued with it. I guess it was just the boot and
bonnets that were continued.

Derek

On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 3:09 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> Hi Derek,
> No this car has steel fenders and doors but aluminum boot and bonnet skins
> (steel frames).
> I'm by no means an expert on these early cars but as I understand it only
> the first 20 (pre-production) cars had all aluminum skins.
>
>
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>         Check My Blog
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 10:02 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Mike
>>
>> Does your car have an all aluminium body? Weren't the first 200 or so
>> production models still bodied that way
>>
>>
>> Derek
>> www.healeysix.net
>>
>>
>>
>>  On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 2:31 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>>>  Oh Wise Ones,
>>>
>>> I'm starting on the restoration of my very early BN1 (#174). This is a
>>> very
>>> original and sound, apparently low mileage but badly weathered car.
>>> During
>>> the dis-assembly process I took about 500 photos of details to aid in the
>>> reassembly.
>>> I was showing these to a very patient and Rich Chrysler yesterday and he
>>> commented that the wheel wells appeared to all have been originally
>>> painted
>>> white which seemed odd. Upon closer examination it appears that this may
>>> have been original because the white paint was only on body components
>>> which would have been installed at Jensens and not on mechanical
>>> components
>>> which would have been installed later at Longbridge.
>>> This is a Healey Blue car and I'm wondering if this may actually have
>>> been
>>> done in the factory. It is a pretty rudimentary "quick shot" with no
>>> evidence of masking but no white on things like the steering column, nuts
>>> holding the turn signal relay, the original front shocks, the real bump
>>> boxes or springs, etc etc.
>>> Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this on a very early Healey
>>> Blue BN1?
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Michael Salter
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Many thanks for all the replies. Well, I was doing almost everything
right.....I've always managed before by sliding the boot over the cylinder,
locating the seal into the piston and easing(!??**?) the piston inwards and
finally locating the boot on the piston.

Regarding the "almost everything", I had not noticed that the seals within
the pistons, as supplied with the new kit, were simply too big. Luckily I
had a pile of old ones and was able to go back to the original smaller size.
So, check the seals' size and save yourself some trouble.

I used LM grease as a lubricant which, hopefully will be flushed out in the
bleeding/fluid renewal process.

A footnote on the inner seals' profile. I remembered them as being tapered
and did find a reference to this in the Haynes manual:

"9) To reassemble, first fit the internal seal, previously wetted with
Castrol Girling Brake Fluid, into the groove in the cylinder bore with the
scraping edge (smaller diameter) innermost".

 

Simon 
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Subject: [Healeys] Oil plug washer
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Can someone give me the dimensions for the copper washer used to seal the oil
drain plug on BN7?  I need a new one and don't have time to order from Moss.
I assume I can get one of the proper size locally.

Thanks,

Ron Fine
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 12:13:54 2012
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I think it's 3/4" ID (hopefully, someone can un/confirm). 

Or, you can just anneal the one you have: heat it to 'cherry red' with a propane torch and let cool. Will seal as good as new. 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Can someone give me the dimensions for the copper washer used to seal the oil 
drain plug on BN7? I need a new one and don't have time to order from Moss. 
I assume I can get one of the proper size locally. 

Thanks, 

Ron Fine 
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil plug washer
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Hi Bob-
FYI
Just confirmed that 3/4" is correct. 
(Measured drain plug and washer.)
Marion Brantley 
 
 
In a message dated 4/27/2012 2:13:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
bspidell@comcast.net writes:

I think  it's 3/4" ID (hopefully, someone can un/confirm). 

Or, you can just  anneal the one you have: heat it to 'cherry red' with a 
propane torch and let  cool. Will seal as good as new. 


Bob  


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA  

----- Original Message -----


Can someone give me the  dimensions for the copper washer used to seal the 
oil 
drain plug on BN7? I  need a new one and don't have time to order from 
Moss. 
I assume I can get  one of the proper size locally. 

Thanks, 

Ron Fine  
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25/32" ID, 1-3/32 OD, .06 thick. Take your plug down to the hardware store.

John

At 06:03 PM 4/27/2012 +0000, Bob Spidell wrote:
>I think it's 3/4" ID (hopefully, someone can un/confirm).
>
>Or, you can just anneal the one you have: heat it to 'cherry red' 
>with a propane torch and let cool. Will seal as good as new.
>
>
>Bob
>
>
>--------------------------------
>Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>
>Can someone give me the dimensions for the copper washer used to seal the oil
>drain plug on BN7? I need a new one and don't have time to order from Moss.
>I assume I can get one of the proper size locally.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ron Fine
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Subject: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block
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Can someone kindly give me the contact details, preferably email, for the
company that manufactures the 7 way fuse box which takes Lucas style glass
fuses and fits right into our 3000s? I have one, but it was a private
purchase, not from the manufacturer.

Simon.
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 12:34:48 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Plug Washer
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Ron,

Don't have the diameter, but if the washer is copper or aluminum you can
anneal it and re-use it.

 

Copper - heat on the stove until it glows, then quench it in water.

 

For aluminum, heat it up then let it air-cool - do not quench.

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 14:05:26 2012
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From: Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com>
To: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>, "Healeys@autox.team.net"
	<Healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] 3.54 Ring & Pinion has arrived
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Received my sets today also.


Edward J. O'Neal, P.E., Pte.
Wadsworth O'Neal Bacik, Inc.
6418 Commerce Park Drive
Fort Myers, Florida 33966
ed@wadsworth-eng.com
(239) 454-5511
(239) 454-4501 fax


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 8:49 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 3.54 Ring & Pinion has arrived

General Info for those that have purchased the 3.54:1 Ring & Pinion from Dan
Lempert.  I received mine via Fed Ex yesterday afternoon (April 26th).  Dan
had emailed a request to everyone that placed an order to confirm their
shipping address to him.


Ron Mitchell
Goodrich, MI
$12.75
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I'm interested in this information as well.

Cheers,
Chris
BJ8



-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Apr 27, 2012 3:26 pm
Subject: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block


Can someone kindly give me the contact details, preferably email, for the
ompany that manufactures the 7 way fuse box which takes Lucas style glass
uses and fits right into our 3000s? I have one, but it was a private
urchase, not from the manufacturer.
Simon.
uggested annual donation  $12.75
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Charlie Hart  hartcg@msn.com
On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 1:32 PM, chris.masucci@alumni.rutgers.edu <
csooch1@aol.com> wrote:

> I'm interested in this information as well.
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Apr 27, 2012 3:26 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block
>
>
> Can someone kindly give me the contact details, preferably email, for the
> ompany that manufactures the 7 way fuse box which takes Lucas style glass
> uses and fits right into our 3000s? I have one, but it was a private
> urchase, not from the manufacturer.
> Simon.
> uggested annual donation  $12.75
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
> ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>
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> u
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>


-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 15:19:54 2012
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
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	<simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
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Charlie Hart at: hartcg@msn.com

The one that he makes can be seen at:
http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Fuse%20Block.pdf

I understand that he is making one up for a BJ8 which I understand may have
to be a little different than the one that I put on my BN6. I just say that
this was the easiest installation that I have made in a long time. Charlie
also makes some other doodads that are great to have such as:

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Hart.pdf


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of chris.masucci@alumni.rutgers.edu
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 4:32 PM
To: simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block

I'm interested in this information as well.

Cheers,
Chris
BJ8



-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Apr 27, 2012 3:26 pm
Subject: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block


Can someone kindly give me the contact details, preferably email, for the
ompany that manufactures the 7 way fuse box which takes Lucas style glass
uses and fits right into our 3000s? I have one, but it was a private
urchase, not from the manufacturer.
Simon. 
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Auminum cylinder head - cracked vave seat
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I just discovered that the cylinder head on my race motor has a cracked valve
seat. It is the 6 cylinder aluminum  head with the figure "8" style of valve
seats.  The casing number on the head is AEC 721.  Has anyone successfully
replaced or repaired one of these seats?  Anyone out there had any experience
with this issue?


Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 17:10:26 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil plug washer
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Thanks.   My only existing plug is on my car.  I hate to lose all my fresh 
oil.  I did try to anneal the existing washer without much success.  That's 
why I am going to try to do a quick switch with my finger in the dike so to 
speak.

Ron
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil plug washer


> 25/32" ID, 1-3/32 OD, .06 thick. Take your plug down to the hardware 
> store.
>
> John
>
> At 06:03 PM 4/27/2012 +0000, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>I think it's 3/4" ID (hopefully, someone can un/confirm).
>>
>>Or, you can just anneal the one you have: heat it to 'cherry red' with a 
>>propane torch and let cool. Will seal as good as new.
>>
>>
>>Bob
>>
>>
>>--------------------------------
>>Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>
>>
>>Can someone give me the dimensions for the copper washer used to seal the 
>>oil
>>drain plug on BN7? I need a new one and don't have time to order from 
>>Moss.
>>I assume I can get one of the proper size locally.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Ron Fine
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 17:42:39 2012
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 16:39:44 -0700
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Subject: [Healeys] Side Curtain Weatherstrip Install Questions
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Can anyone direct me to info on how to remove and replace the weatherstrip
on the aluminum side curtains?

 

Does one just remove the mounting screws that are in line with the rubber as
well as the small Philips screw at the top?

If I do that, can I slide the old rubber out and slide the new one in? Do I
use soap for lube?

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells
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That's all very well but it doesn't help with my white wheel wells!!!   :-)

-- 
Michael Salter

        Check My Blog
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 7:16 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>wrote:

> Listers,
>
> We know that Blair Harbor's # 23 the very first production car was all
> aluminum, Birmabright to be specific, so we can possibly conclude that the
> other cars that came from Jensen in that batch, numbers 21 and 22 were also
> all aluminum.  I believe that the lorry's that transported the cars from
> Jensen to Longbridge held at least three cars at a time?  Someone correct
> me if I'm wrong.
>
> I have been told that only the first 50 cars were aluminum but I
> personally don't believe that number.  Don't ask me why.
>
> FYI it's the first 200 XK-120 Jaguars that were all aluminum.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 8:23 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Michael,
>>
>> I knew about the 20 pre-production cars but read somewhere that the very
>> early production cars continued with it. I guess it was just the boot and
>> bonnets that were continued.
>>
>> Derek
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From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells
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Michael -

Some perspective here.

In 1952 and 53, metallic paints were two things:

1) More expensive
2) More unstable.

White paint was the opposite - very stable and actually a good base to
spray over with light metallic color later.

Also some early cars also had black engine bays if I'm not mistaken,
Rich will know.

Probably the demand was high for the mettallic blue and they decided
to respray the car to a customer's order, and took a car from Jensens
that had been partially painted white.

Cheers,

Alan

On 4/27/12, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
> Oh Wise Ones,
>
> I'm starting on the restoration of my very early BN1 (#174). This is a very
> original and sound, apparently low mileage but badly weathered car. During
> the dis-assembly process I took about 500 photos of details to aid in the
> reassembly.
> I was showing these to a very patient and Rich Chrysler yesterday and he
> commented that the wheel wells appeared to all have been originally painted
> white which seemed odd. Upon closer examination it appears that this may
> have been original because the white paint was only on body components
> which would have been installed at Jensens and not on mechanical components
> which would have been installed later at Longbridge.
> This is a Healey Blue car and I'm wondering if this may actually have been
> done in the factory. It is a pretty rudimentary "quick shot" with no
> evidence of masking but no white on things like the steering column, nuts
> holding the turn signal relay, the original front shocks, the real bump
> boxes or springs, etc etc.
> Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this on a very early Healey
> Blue BN1?
>
>
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>         Check My Blog
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 19:17:12 2012
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From: "Rich Chrysler" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 21:10:20 -0400
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Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Early BN1 white wheel wells
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Subject: RE: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells

Research seems to indicate that the earliest production cars had alloy
fenders and panels all around. Just for reference sake the first production
car was BN1L 138031 which was Jensen's consecutive Body number 24. It is
reported that as early as Body number 29, the rear fenders were already
apparently steel, with steel front fenders following closely after. I don't
know how quickly steel doors followed, but within the next few cars.
Alloy bonnets continued into May of 1954 and steel boot lids into June of
'54.

Rich Chrysler
Hundred Registrar

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Derek Job
Sent: 2012-04-27 11:24
To: Michael Salter
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells

Thanks Michael,

I knew about the 20 pre-production cars but read somewhere that the very
early production cars continued with it. I guess it was just the boot and
bonnets that were continued.

Derek
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 19:34:03 2012
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
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Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 01:28:21 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake calliper seals
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Simon,

Please define "LM grease". If it is not the rubber grease as is sometimes
supplied in hydraulic rebuild kits then I would advise against using it. No
petroleum product should ever be used on the fluid side of a conventional
braking system. A petroleum lubricant will destroy your seals very quickly. I
had an oil leak on a Land Rover that soaked the boot on the clutch slave
cylinder. The boot swelled to about three times it's normal size in a couple
of days.

Rubber grease on the other hand is compounded from the same materials as brake
fluid.

Bill Lawrence

> From: simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 17:49:09 +0100
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake calliper seals
>
> Many thanks for all the replies. Well, I was doing almost everything
> right.....I've always managed before by sliding the boot over the cylinder,
> locating the seal into the piston and easing(!??**?) the piston inwards and
> finally locating the boot on the piston.
>
> Regarding the "almost everything", I had not noticed that the seals within
> the pistons, as supplied with the new kit, were simply too big. Luckily I
> had a pile of old ones and was able to go back to the original smaller
size.
> So, check the seals' size and save yourself some trouble.
>
> I used LM grease as a lubricant which, hopefully will be flushed out in the
> bleeding/fluid renewal process.
>
> A footnote on the inner seals' profile. I remembered them as being tapered
> and did find a reference to this in the Haynes manual:
>
> "9) To reassemble, first fit the internal seal, previously wetted with
> Castrol Girling Brake Fluid, into the groove in the cylinder bore with the
> scraping edge (smaller diameter) innermost".
>
>
>
> Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 20:22:38 2012
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From: "Rich Chrysler" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side Curtain Weatherstrip Install Questions
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Steve,

The rubber leading edge and bottom edge side screen seals have to be
installed starting at the lower front corner. The rubber seal has a T
section that must be forced into the extruded channel. You'll find that a
bit of the T needs to be removed at the root of this junction for about 1/4"
as there's no complete slot at the very front corner of the aluminum.
Work by pushing the one side of the T into the groove, then with a flat
blunt (not sharp) tool such as a flat bladed screwdriver, carefully push the
other edge of the T into the slot. You can use a bit of liquid soap as a
lube, though I find that a bit of silicone spray helps this go well and
keeps the rubber from tearing or chafing from being too "dry" as it's being
worked into the channel.
I've never been able to draw the rubber along the channel very successfully
unless it's just to adjust the fit a bit. 
I don't know what you are referring to re the mounting screws. 
The small Phillips screw at the top is just to pierce into and hold the flat
rubber button shank that cushions the side screen frame from the top latch
anchor stud on the windscreen frame. The other rubber button on the rear
mounting iron that cushions the iron from contacting the door cockpit rail
is a friction push fit.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Gerow
Sent: 2012-04-27 7:40
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Side Curtain Weatherstrip Install Questions

Can anyone direct me to info on how to remove and replace the weatherstrip
on the aluminum side curtains?

 

Does one just remove the mounting screws that are in line with the rubber as
well as the small Philips screw at the top?

If I do that, can I slide the old rubber out and slide the new one in? Do I
use soap for lube?

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
$12.75
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Subject: [Healeys] 7 Way Fuse Block
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There wasn't a Fuseblock for the BJ8's until Charlie and I figured out what I
needed to do to make his "early car" work in a BJ8. I literally took the
Fuseblock and turned it upside down.
There is clearance issues between the
main wiring harness and the oil line as well as the cluct hydraulic line. I
only have another adjustment and I should be finished.
The Fuseblock had to
beturned upside down because all of the Green wires are on the left side of
the Fuseblock on the BJ8's(this is facing the firewall from the front of the
car), and the earlier cars have the Green wires on the opposite side.
 
I am
also running an Alternator and Neg. ground, Toyota 5-Speed.
email me for
photos of what I have so far.
Pat Yoas
 
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'chris.masucci@alumni.rutgers.edu'" <csooch1@aol.com>,
   
<simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>,    <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] 7 way fuse block
Message-ID:
<085b01cd24bb$78768550$69638ff0$@verizon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=US-ASCII

Charlie Hart at: hartcg@msn.com

The one that he makes can
be seen at:
http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Fuse%20Block.pdf

I understand
that he is making one up for a BJ8 which I understand may have
to be a little
different than the one that I put on my BN6. I just say that
this was the
easiest installation that I have made in a long time. Charlie
also makes some
other doodads that are great to have such as:
http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Hart.pdf


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 Longbridge on eBay ! ! !
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WOW, hope he gets the "Buy-it-Now" (or better) price <VBG> ! ! !

*http://tinyurl.com/7qxuzmv
*
or

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1957-Austin-Healey-100-6-Longbridge-edition-/140743860846?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item20c4fce26e

Anybody know him/the car ??

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 23:49:57 2012
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Thanks for the info.

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 12:09:33 2012
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Rich,
Thankyou for the detailed reply - it answered my questions. None of the various screws impinge on the channels into which the rubbers slide.

>>>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 22:16:18 -0400
From: "Rich Chrysler" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side Curtain Weatherstrip Install Questions
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Steve,

The rubber leading edge and bottom edge side screen seals have to be
installed starting at the lower front corner. The rubber seal has a T
section that must be forced into the extruded channel. You'll find that a
bit of the T needs to be removed at the root of this junction for about 1/4"
as there's no complete slot at the very front corner of the aluminum.
Work by pushing the one side of the T into the groove, then with a flat
blunt (not sharp) tool such as a flat bladed screwdriver, carefully push the
other edge of the T into the slot. You can use a bit of liquid soap as a
lube, though I find that a bit of silicone spray helps this go well and
keeps the rubber from tearing or chafing from being too "dry" as it's being
worked into the channel.
I've never been able to draw the rubber along the channel very successfully
unless it's just to adjust the fit a bit.
I don't know what you are referring to re the mounting screws.
The small Phillips screw at the top is just to pierce into and hold the flat
rubber button shank that cushions the side screen frame from the top latch
anchor stud on the windscreen frame. The other rubber button on the rear
mounting iron that cushions the iron from contacting the door cockpit rail
is a friction push fit.

Rich


-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 13:38:44 2012
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While working on one problem I accidently caused another, as anyone who
tried to get to the forums, the mailman admin page, the donate link or
whatever during the last 12 hours or so would know.

The server is now responding, though the problems I was working on are 
still
unresolved.  I'd rather be at The Mitty!

mjb.
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I believe paypal is doing maint they let me know for oher sites so pp may choke today. 
------Original Message------
From: Mark J Bradakis
Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] Team.Net web server
Sent: Apr 28, 2012 12:41 PM

While working on one problem I accidently caused another, as anyone who
tried to get to the forums, the mailman admin page, the donate link or
whatever during the last 12 hours or so would know.

The server is now responding, though the problems I was working on are 
still
unresolved.  I'd rather be at The Mitty!

mjb.
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Sent on the Sprint. Now Network from my BlackBerry.
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells Resolved possibly very
 boring!!
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With no one else reporting having encountered white wheel wells I decided
that further research was required. This is a very early car #174 and if
I'm going to spend my time restoring I really want to get it right.
I had surmised that the white in the wheel wells may have been original
because it had been painted directly over the black (primer) frame paint in
the wheel wells. I had done a paint coat sequence check of the outside of
the doors and front fenders and found that they were Healey Blue directly
over grey primer!! (No white)
Today I decided to try to get to the bottom of all this so I selected the
drivers door for more intensive study.
As noted the outer surfaces were Healey Blue over grey primer.applied
directly to the steel.
Inside the doors was Healey Blue over red oxide primer over black (primer)
frame paint!! (Again no white!!)
But the outside latch face of the doors provided the real story. Here we
have a much more interesting sequence of paint layers.
Starting at the steel we have black (primer) frame paint, red oxide primer,
non metallic blue/grey, metallic Healey Blue, grey primer, white, grey
primer, metallic Healey Blue.
My bet is that this car was originally non metallic blue/grey... anyone
care to comment or take a guess as to the sequence of paint procedures.
One hint....The interior door liners have at some stage been removed and
had red leathercloth over the original dark blue.
A second hint. The blue leatherette was still glued in place in the sheet
metal hinge boxes inside the front of the door. The paint under them was
the non metallic blue/grey.
Third hint..read the last paragraph on page 40 of Anderson & Moment.

Michael Salter
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=756

On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 8:36 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> No Alan,
> I don't think so. I guess you have to see how it was applied to appreciate
> what I'm talking about.
> This white paint was definitely applied to the wheel wells, and only the
> wheel wells, over the black/brown frame and inner body paint. there is no
> sign of over spray on other components so it was almost certainly applied
> before the mechanical (Longbridge ) parts were installed.
> I'll attach a couple of photos for Alan. Anyone else whants a copy let me
> know.
> It would appear that no one else has seen this before..
> I may be being a little anal about this but I just hate to delete
> something that may have been installed when the car was new.
> As they say when it comes to restoration "the devil is in the details".
> Incidentally as I research things further it appears that this particular
> car was originally painted "Gunmetal Grey" see Anderson & Moment pg 40.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 14:43:34 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Brake Pad Squeal
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Hi,
I just replaced the pads on the rt front caliper that had one side sticking. I
used David Nock's technique by pulling the thick side out and pushing the
brake to free the caliper. It worked great. I pushed both calipers back in and
installed new metal shims and new pads. But now I have a louder squeal than
ever. I did not put shims in the left side yet. The squeal sounds like it is
coming from the rt side I just serviced.

Any ideas how to stop this LOUD squeal?

Thanks,



Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC

http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY
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From: Todd Taylor <ttaylor33@twcny.rr.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs install.
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wondering if there is a source for Cork washers that go on the neck of 
the king pins.
Or is there something else I can use like nylon type.  any one know what 
size they have to be??
I hate to put an order in for 2 washers and pay $6 in shipping...   I 
assume they are used to seal up grease.


also I have to put my front springs in , any ideas to do this??   my 
motor is out and there isn't any weight to work with.
jack on the bottom will jack up the whole frame??     any specail 
tools?    spring compressor wont go up the center
because there isn't any holes to go through..
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs  install.
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Hi Todd,
The later and currently available kits just use a standard sized O ring.
A couple of 6" sections of 3/8" threaded rod can be used to pull the spring
plate up.

-- 
Michael Salter

        Check My Blog
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 6:00 PM, Todd Taylor <ttaylor33@twcny.rr.com> wrote:

> wondering if there is a source for Cork washers that go on the neck of the
> king pins.
> Or is there something else I can use like nylon type.  any one know what
> size they have to be??
> I hate to put an order in for 2 washers and pay $6 in shipping...   I
> assume they are used to seal up grease.
>
>
> also I have to put my front springs in , any ideas to do this??   my motor
> is out and there isn't any weight to work with.
> jack on the bottom will jack up the whole frame??     any specail tools?
>  spring compressor wont go up the center
> because there isn't any holes to go through..
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 16:33:14 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] great supplier
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Recently installed a "wink" mirror purchased from O'Reilleys. Found I needed 2
glue to the windshield mounting adaptors. Had just recieved a catalog from
Pegasus. They carry a huge amount of obscure automotive equipment, stuff you
can't find anywhere else. Brousing thru I saw they sell the wink mirror and
adaptors. Called and ordered the two Came fast and I marked locations to glue
the base plates and allowed to dry overnight. Put the adaptors to the base
plates and put mirror on. One side came off at the base plate. I only then saw
there was a clear rubberish piece stuck to windshield. That and the black
plastic piece had come apart. Called Pegasus and told them about it. No
argument at all, they sent me another one. When it came I looked closely and
saw the clear rubber part was missing. Checked the one that had stayed on
windshield and there wasn't a rubber part. That had to have come loose from
factory machine and stuch on base plate. Wonder haw long it took before
someone noticed. The point is tho this is a great supplier who stands behind
what it sells. Call 1-800-688-6946 for a catalog
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Pad Squeal
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see if some of that brake quiet spray works,  it's worked for me in the 
past...   stuff is like glue almost...

On 4/28/2012 4:40 PM, scott willis wrote:
> Hi,
> I just replaced the pads on the rt front caliper that had one side sticking. I
> used David Nock's technique by pulling the thick side out and pushing the
> brake to free the caliper. It worked great. I pushed both calipers back in and
> installed new metal shims and new pads. But now I have a louder squeal than
> ever. I did not put shims in the left side yet. The squeal sounds like it is
> coming from the rt side I just serviced.
>
> Any ideas how to stop this LOUD squeal?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Scott Willis
> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
> 59 MGA
> 66 E-Type FHC
>
> http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
> BG Euro Classics Car Club President
> Bowling Green, KY
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs  install.
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what's the O ring made out of rubber??   any idea what size??   like for 
a sink??

On 4/28/2012 6:23 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Todd,
> The later and currently available kits just use a standard sized O ring.
> A couple of 6" sections of 3/8" threaded rod can be used to pull the 
> spring plate up.
>
> -- 
> Michael Salter
>
>         Check My Blog
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
>
> On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 6:00 PM, Todd Taylor <ttaylor33@twcny.rr.com 
> <mailto:ttaylor33@twcny.rr.com>> wrote:
>
>     wondering if there is a source for Cork washers that go on the
>     neck of the king pins.
>     Or is there something else I can use like nylon type.  any one
>     know what size they have to be??
>     I hate to put an order in for 2 washers and pay $6 in shipping...
>       I assume they are used to seal up grease.
>
>
>     also I have to put my front springs in , any ideas to do this??  
>     my motor is out and there isn't any weight to work with.
>     jack on the bottom will jack up the whole frame??     any specail
>     tools?    spring compressor wont go up the center
>     because there isn't any holes to go through..
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Don't know what a "wink" mirror is, but where doe it fit on a Healey?  Could this be blatent advertising???  just asking.

tom
---- EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com> wrote: 

=============
Recently installed a "wink" mirror purchased from O'Reilleys. Found I needed 2
glue to the windshield mounting adaptors. Had just recieved a catalog from
Pegasus. They carry a huge amount of obscure automotive equipment, stuff you
can't find anywhere else. Brousing thru I saw they sell the wink mirror and
adaptors. Called and ordered the two Came fast and I marked locations to glue
the base plates and allowed to dry overnight. Put the adaptors to the base
plates and put mirror on. One side came off at the base plate. I only then saw
there was a clear rubberish piece stuck to windshield. That and the black
plastic piece had come apart. Called Pegasus and told them about it. No
argument at all, they sent me another one. When it came I looked closely and
saw the clear rubber part was missing. Checked the one that had stayed on
windshield and there wasn't a rubber part. That had to have come loose from
factory machine and stuch on base plate. Wonder haw long it took before
someone noticed. The point is tho this is a great supplier who stands behind
what it sells. Call 1-800-688-6946 for a catalog
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 16:48:33 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] rear Jag brakes
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Have hit a minor snag it doing the xj6 rear disc brake conversion. The hand
brake requires an actuator. I called the local Jag dealer and the parts dept
didn't ever list one for the xj6. So far I haven't been able to locate it or
even a pic of one. Everyone just says they no longer exist. I'm just guessing
on how it works, mechanical plunger w/return spring? Wondering if an actuator
for another car w/4 wheel disc brakes might be used , they must use something
similar.  Guess as a last resort I could soapbox derby a stick to cable end
w/piece of bicycle tire nailed on. I'm posting this here since I know there or
Jag owners here. Help please.
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs   install.
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AFAIK, the only O-rings on the king pins are used to seal either end of the spring-loaded tubular dust cover.  I think 
cork washers are still used on the lower trunnion (but I haven't bought a set in years).

Any suitably-sized O-ring should work; just measure the diameter of the king pin and buy an O-ring; nitrile are best for 
oily environments.   They might be differently sized.

Bob


On 4/28/2012 3:40 PM, Todd Taylor wrote:
> what's the O ring made out of rubber??   any idea what size??   like for
> a sink??
>
> On 4/28/2012 6:23 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>> Hi Todd,
>> The later and currently available kits just use a standard sized O ring.
>> A couple of 6" sections of 3/8" threaded rod can be used to pull the
>> spring plate up.
>>
>> -- 
>> Michael Salter
>>
>>
>>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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might try jag-lovers   they have sites for XJ6's and other Jags.

tom

PS--if I was wrong on the Advertising post, sorry---just seemed strange to add a ph# for a suppliers catalog.  no offense intended.


---- EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com> wrote: 

=============
Have hit a minor snag it doing the xj6 rear disc brake conversion. The hand
brake requires an actuator. I called the local Jag dealer and the parts dept
didn't ever list one for the xj6. So far I haven't been able to locate it or
even a pic of one. Everyone just says they no longer exist. I'm just guessing
on how it works, mechanical plunger w/return spring? Wondering if an actuator
for another car w/4 wheel disc brakes might be used , they must use something
similar.  Guess as a last resort I could soapbox derby a stick to cable end
w/piece of bicycle tire nailed on. I'm posting this here since I know there or
Jag owners here. Help please.
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Subject: [Healeys] Estate of Don Lenschow sale
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Kay Lenschow requested I help spread the word about this auction. Don was a
great friend to many of us and he is missed.

Saturday, June 9th, 2012 will be the date of an auction of Austin Healey,
magic, photographic, and many other items from the estate of Don Lenschow.

The auction will take place at Don & Kay's home at
467 County Road 4593 Boyd, TX 76023

Austin Healey-related items are being offered to Austin Healey friends before
the auction,
but this offer WILL end at midnight on 5/12/12

IF you want any of these items (some of which are rare and/or valuable) NOW is
the time to act!!!

Visit http://www.ntahc.org/ for more information










Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 17:34:28 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'EDWARD ANDERSON'" <eandy01@msn.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear Jag brakes
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The XJ6 used a standard under the dash pull out handle connected to a big
bell crank and cable back to the dual pull yoke.
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of EDWARD ANDERSON
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 4:47 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] rear Jag brakes

Have hit a minor snag it doing the xj6 rear disc brake conversion. The hand
brake requires an actuator. I called the local Jag dealer and the parts dept
didn't ever list one for the xj6. So far I haven't been able to locate it or
even a pic of one. Everyone just says they no longer exist. I'm just
guessing
on how it works, mechanical plunger w/return spring? Wondering if an
actuator
for another car w/4 wheel disc brakes might be used , they must use
something
similar.  Guess as a last resort I could soapbox derby a stick to cable end
w/piece of bicycle tire nailed on. I'm posting this here since I know there
or
Jag owners here. Help please.
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Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 16:59:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com>
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Add me to the Pegasus fan list.  Their prices on Girling master cylinders are
much better than the usual suppliers and they were of great help in providing
an adapter so I could use my original oil pressure gauge on the Nasty Boy
build.  Fast shipping, too.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Sat, 4/28/12, EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com> wrote:

From: EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com>
Subject: [Healeys] great supplier
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, April 28, 2012, 6:33 PM

Recently installed a "wink" mirror purchased from O'Reilleys. Found I needed
2
glue to the windshield mounting adaptors. Had just recieved a catalog from
Pegasus. They carry a huge amount of obscure automotive equipment, stuff you
can't find anywhere else. Brousing thru I saw they sell the wink mirror and
adaptors. Called and ordered the two Came fast and I marked locations to glue
the base plates and allowed to dry overnight. Put the adaptors to the base
plates and put mirror on. One side came off at the base plate. I only then
saw
there was a clear rubberish piece stuck to windshield. That and the black
plastic piece had come apart. Called Pegasus and told them about it. No
argument at all, they sent me another one. When it came I looked closely and
saw the clear rubber part was missing. Checked the one that had stayed on
windshield and there wasn't a rubber part. That had to have come loose from
factory machine and stuch on base plate. Wonder haw long it took before
someone noticed. The point is tho this is a great supplier who stands behind
what it sells. Call 1-800-688-6946 for a catalog
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 18:07:19 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear Jag brakes
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Edward,

Could you be more specific on what you mean by the "actuator" you mention? 

 

I have the brakes and they're not installed yet. The Pliers clamping
mechanism uses push pull rods just like the stock Healey system but needs
more leverage or rotation out of the rotating lever mechanism.

 

>>> 

Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 22:46:56 +0000
From: EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=eandy01@msn.com> >
To: <healeys@autox.team.net
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=healeys@autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] rear Jag brakes
Message-ID: <SNT134-W2280044A9640773DB59649B32A0@phx.gbl
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=SNT134-W2280044A9640773DB59649B32
A0@phx.gbl> >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Have hit a minor snag it doing the xj6 rear disc brake conversion. The hand
brake requires an actuator. I called the local Jag dealer and the parts dept
didn't ever list one for the xj6. So far I haven't been able to locate it or
even a pic of one. Everyone just says they no longer exist. I'm just
guessing
on how it works, mechanical plunger w/return spring? Wondering if an
actuator
for another car w/4 wheel disc brakes might be used , they must use
something
similar.  Guess as a last resort I could soapbox derby a stick to cable end
w/piece of bicycle tire nailed on. I'm posting this here since I know there
or
Jag owners here. Help please.

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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From: F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] great supplier
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google it!! ron r

On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 3:41 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:
>
> Don't know what a "wink" mirror is, but where doe it fit on a Healey?  Could
this be blatent advertising???  just asking.
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thanks--I did after I sent it out---not to bright of me.

tom
---- F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
google it!! ron r

On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 3:41 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:
>
> Don't know what a "wink" mirror is, but where doe it fit on a Healey?  Could
this be blatent advertising???  just asking.
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Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 White Wheel Wells
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Fascinating bit of archaeology there, Mike.  I've not seen your white wheel
wells in my travels.

For what its worth, I'm sending you a scan of a Rinshead-Mason colour chip
sheet from 1954.  It has no fewer than THREE shades of Healey Blue, each
specific to a year.  The attached formula tables show a FOURTH Healey Blue for
1955.  The sheet was current with the actual cars being sold at the time, and
so had to match what was being produced pretty well.

- Ice Blue (non-metallic)   1953
- Ice Blue Iridescent   1953
- Ice Blue Iridescent   1954
- Ice Blue Iridescent   1955

While the formulas are no longer useful, comparing the tinting ingredients
between the four shades of Healey Blue makes for an interesting comparison.
For example, the 1953 shade contains both medium and coarse iridescent flakes,
while the others have only coarse.  Two shades include red or maroon tints,
which are not present in the other two.

Best
Peter

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Nov 19540396.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of RM Healey Blues I0183.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of RM Healey Blues II0184.jpg]
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Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires?  Anything besides Vredestein (they're good tires, just wondering if there's 
anything else available)?

Good sources?

TIA,
Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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I hear the archives are great place to look.

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

 On Apr 28, 2012 6:48 PM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires?  Anything besides Vredestein
> (they're good tires, just wondering if there's anything else available)?
>
> Good sources?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
> ______________________________**_________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
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For dated information.  I'm looking for up-to-date info (tire availability changes fairly often).

Thanks for the enormously helpful suggestion, though.


Bob



On 4/28/2012 7:18 PM, I Erbs wrote:
>
> I hear the archives are great place to look.
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> On Apr 28, 2012 6:48 PM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net <mailto:bspidell@comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires?  Anything besides Vredestein (they're good tires, just wondering if
>     there's anything else available)?
>
>     Good sources?
>
>     TIA,
>     Bob
>
>     -- 
>     *******************************************************************
>     Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net <mailto:bspidell@comcast.net>
>
>     *******************************************************************
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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 22:52:11 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
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Does anyone run Vredestine Sprint Classics on their 3000? I have them on my
E-Type and am satisfied. If so which size do you have on your Healey and do
you have photos you can share? I have Michelin ZX 175 R15 which I love because
they fill the wheel well prefect and look correct but I cannot find them
anymore. I put the set on my MGA and now I want another set for the Healey.

Thx


Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC

http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY


----------------------------------------
> Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:36:24 -0700
> From: bspidell@comcast.net
> To: eyera3@gmail.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
>
> For dated information. I'm looking for up-to-date info (tire availability
changes fairly often).
>
> Thanks for the enormously helpful suggestion, though.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 4/28/2012 7:18 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> >
> > I hear the archives are great place to look.
> >
> > Ira Erbs
> > IT Consultant
> > Portland, OR
> >
> > On Apr 28, 2012 6:48 PM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net
<mailto:bspidell@comcast.net>> wrote:
> >
> > Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires? Anything besides Vredestein
(they're good tires, just wondering if
> > there's anything else available)?
> >
> > Good sources?
> >
> > TIA,
> > Bob
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs   install.
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I recommend using treaded rod the same diameter as the bolts which I 
think are 9/16". My parts manual shows the bolts but the part number 
listing is not in it. I have made this repair a few times and every 
time it has been very difficult to get all four bolt holes centered 
properly. I believe it is because I have been using 3/8" rod. 
However, it could be that I cinched up the plate unevenly from side to side.

You can get "O" rings to replace the cork ones. The cork ones can 
blow out very easily if you pump to much grease into the fitting.

John

At 06:23 PM 4/28/2012 -0400, Michael Salter wrote:
>Hi Todd,
>The later and currently available kits just use a standard sized O ring.
>A couple of 6" sections of 3/8" threaded rod can be used to pull the spring
>plate up.
>
>--
>Michael Salter
>
>         Check My Blog
>http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
>
>On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 6:00 PM, Todd Taylor <ttaylor33@twcny.rr.com> wrote:
>
> > wondering if there is a source for Cork washers that go on the neck of the
> > king pins.
> > Or is there something else I can use like nylon type.  any one know what
> > size they have to be??
> > I hate to put an order in for 2 washers and pay $6 in shipping...   I
> > assume they are used to seal up grease.
> >
> >
> > also I have to put my front springs in , any ideas to do this??   my motor
> > is out and there isn't any weight to work with.
> > jack on the bottom will jack up the whole frame??     any specail tools?
> >  spring compressor wont go up the center
> > because there isn't any holes to go through..
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
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I've run a couple sets of Vred Sprint Classic 185/70HR-15s on my BJ8 with 6" rims (photo attached).  Good on dry roads, 
not great in rain, abysmal in snow.  The 185HR15 Sprint Classic is taller--of course--and looks good with narrower 
rims.  The Sprint+ appears to be more of an all-season tire, but doesn't come in suitable sizes for Big Healeys.

Bob



On 4/28/2012 9:43 PM, scott willis wrote:
>
> Does anyone run Vredestine Sprint Classics on their 3000? I have them on my E-Type and am satisfied. If so which size do you have on your Healey and do you have photos you can share? I have Michelin ZX 175 R15 which I love because they fill the wheel well prefect and look correct but I cannot find them anymore. I put the set on my MGA and now I want another set for the Healey.
>
> Thx
>
>
> Scott Willis
> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
> 59 MGA
> 66 E-Type FHC
>
> http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
> BG Euro Classics Car Club President
> Bowling Green, KY
>
>
>   	   		


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************

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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs   install.
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Hi Todd,

The bolts are not 9/16. They might be 7/16".

Sorry,
John

At 09:41 PM 4/28/2012 -0700, john spaur wrote:
>I recommend using treaded rod the same diameter as the bolts which I 
>think are 9/16".
>John
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs    install.
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You have to pull up all the allthreads evenly.  Lots of nut-turning; an air ratchet and deep socket (1/2") helps a lot.  
To use the socket, you'll also need to pull up the nuts on top and bottom evenly as well.

3/8" coarse is good (you could probably lift the whole car with a grade 8  9/16" bolt).

Don't forget to re-install the brackets for the sway bar (of course, I would never do such a thing).

Bob


On 4/28/2012 9:41 PM, john spaur wrote:
> I recommend using treaded rod the same diameter as the bolts which I think are 9/16". My parts manual shows the bolts 
> but the part number listing is not in it. I have made this repair a few times and every time it has been very 
> difficult to get all four bolt holes centered properly. I believe it is because I have been using 3/8" rod. However, 
> it could be that I cinched up the plate unevenly from side to side.
>
> You can get "O" rings to replace the cork ones. The cork ones can blow out very easily if you pump to much grease into 
> the fitting.
>
> John
>
> At 06:23 PM 4/28/2012 -0400, Michael Salter wrote:
>> Hi Todd,
>> The later and currently available kits just use a standard sized O ring.
>> A couple of 6" sections of 3/8" threaded rod can be used to pull the spring
>> plate up.
>>
>> -- 
>> Michael Salter
>>
>>         Check My Blog
>> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
>>
>> On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 6:00 PM, Todd Taylor <ttaylor33@twcny.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>> > wondering if there is a source for Cork washers that go on the neck of the
>> > king pins.
>> > Or is there something else I can use like nylon type.  any one know what
>> > size they have to be??
>> > I hate to put an order in for 2 washers and pay $6 in shipping...   I
>> > assume they are used to seal up grease.
>> >
>> >
>> > also I have to put my front springs in , any ideas to do this??   my motor
>> > is out and there isn't any weight to work with.
>> > jack on the bottom will jack up the whole frame??     any specail tools?
>> >  spring compressor wont go up the center
>> > because there isn't any holes to go through..
>> _______________________________________________


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
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Bob.

Avon ZZ s are excellant and have the right period look. They come in hard
and soft compounds and are a road/race tyre used a lot by hillclimbers and
sprinters rather than actual Dunop Racing tyres.

They are expensive though.

I have 185/70/15 Halda tyres on my other car. Although they are the same
dimensions (supposedly) they look much fatter than the Avons.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:48 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires?  Anything besides Vredestein
> (they're good tires, just wondering if there's anything else available)?
>
> Good sources?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
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Tyres again.
You had me at ZZ...
Zzzzzzz
Snore
Zzzzzzz
;-)
No disrespect. Just sleepy.
;-)

Sent from my iPhone

On 29/04/2012, at 4:45 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Bob.
>
> Avon ZZ s are excellant and have the right period look. They come in hard
> and soft compounds and are a road/race tyre used a lot by hillclimbers and
> sprinters rather than actual Dunop Racing tyres.
>
> They are expensive though.
>
> I have 185/70/15 Halda tyres on my other car. Although they are the same
> dimensions (supposedly) they look much fatter than the Avons.
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
>
> On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:48 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires?  Anything besides Vredestein
>> (they're good tires, just wondering if there's anything else available)?
>>
>> Good sources?
>>
>> TIA,
>> Bob
>>
>> --
>> ***********************************************************************
>> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>>
>> ***********************************************************************
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Support Team.Net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
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Also Michelin XAS in--I think--180/70.  Supposedly great--certainly
expensive.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:45 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Bob.
>
> Avon ZZ s are excellant and have the right period look. They come in hard
> and soft compounds and are a road/race tyre used a lot by hillclimbers and
> sprinters rather than actual Dunop Racing tyres.
>
> They are expensive though.
>
> I have 185/70/15 Halda tyres on my other car. Although they are the same
> dimensions (supposedly) they look much fatter than the Avons.
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
>
> On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:48 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires?  Anything besides Vredestein
> > (they're good tires, just wondering if there's anything else available)?
> >
> > Good sources?
> >
> > TIA,
> > Bob
> >
> > --
> > ***********************************************************************
> > Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
> >
> > ***********************************************************************
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I've had them on my BJ8 and E-Type for a few years------Love the looks and ride.

Maybe I can take a photo today and send to you.

tom

---- scott willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Does anyone run Vredestine Sprint Classics on their 3000? I have them on my
E-Type and am satisfied. If so which size do you have on your Healey and do
you have photos you can share? I have Michelin ZX 175 R15 which I love because
they fill the wheel well prefect and look correct but I cannot find them
anymore. I put the set on my MGA and now I want another set for the Healey.

Thx


Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC

http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY


----------------------------------------
> Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:36:24 -0700
> From: bspidell@comcast.net
> To: eyera3@gmail.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
>
> For dated information. I'm looking for up-to-date info (tire availability
changes fairly often).
>
> Thanks for the enormously helpful suggestion, though.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 4/28/2012 7:18 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> >
> > I hear the archives are great place to look.
> >
> > Ira Erbs
> > IT Consultant
> > Portland, OR
> >
> > On Apr 28, 2012 6:48 PM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net
<mailto:bspidell@comcast.net>> wrote:
> >
> > Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires? Anything besides Vredestein
(they're good tires, just wondering if
> > there's anything else available)?
> >
> > Good sources?
> >
> > TIA,
> > Bob
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You drive your Healey in the snow?  


---- Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
I've run a couple sets of Vred Sprint Classic 185/70HR-15s on my BJ8 with 6" rims (photo attached).  Good on dry roads, 
not great in rain, abysmal in snow.  The 185HR15 Sprint Classic is taller--of course--and looks good with narrower 
rims.  The Sprint+ appears to be more of an all-season tire, but doesn't come in suitable sizes for Big Healeys.

Bob



On 4/28/2012 9:43 PM, scott willis wrote:
>
> Does anyone run Vredestine Sprint Classics on their 3000? I have them on my E-Type and am satisfied. If so which size do you have on your Healey and do you have photos you can share? I have Michelin ZX 175 R15 which I love because they fill the wheel well prefect and look correct but I cannot find them anymore. I put the set on my MGA and now I want another set for the Healey.
>
> Thx
>
>
> Scott Willis
> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
> 59 MGA
> 66 E-Type FHC
>
> http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
> BG Euro Classics Car Club President
> Bowling Green, KY
>
>
>   	   		


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************

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Didn't know you could still get Avon's.


---- Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Bob.

Avon ZZ s are excellant and have the right period look. They come in hard
and soft compounds and are a road/race tyre used a lot by hillclimbers and
sprinters rather than actual Dunop Racing tyres.

They are expensive though.

I have 185/70/15 Halda tyres on my other car. Although they are the same
dimensions (supposedly) they look much fatter than the Avons.

Derek
www.healeysix.net
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An off the wall request (pun intended). I am redoing my home/office which
has golf themed border wallpaper at the top of the walls. Want to do it with
a LBC theme. Anyone know where I can get this? I have been all over the
internet today and can not find anything.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 14:13:51 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers
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John--

There are numerous places online that make custom wallpaper and borders
from your artwork.  I have no idea of price but it is probably not that
expensive and besides you're certainly worth it!

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:03 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

> An off the wall request (pun intended). I am redoing my home/office which
> has golf themed border wallpaper at the top of the walls. Want to do it
> with
> a LBC theme. Anyone know where I can get this? I have been all over the
> internet today and can not find anything.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 14:45:35 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Comparison of Gear Ratios
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Hi all,

For anyone interested I have prepared a graph comparing the following gear
ratios.

BN4
3000
Later 3000
Tulip
Sebring

The graph can be seen here

http://www.healeysix.net/Gearratios.htm

derek
www.healeysix.net
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You can do your own.... just take any jpg or bmp picture, go to your control
panel, all control panel items, personalization, desktop background,  and
select the picture (jpg or bmp) as your new wall paper.   
These are ones that I've used:
For the Healey Wallpaper.bmp file, I told the controlpanel/display
settings/desktop to replicate the image so it is repeated all over the
screen.
For the picture of the open road, I merely told the controlpanel/display
settings/desktop to use that image

(sorry folk on the list, other than John you won't be able to see the
pictures because they are stripped off)

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/bmp which had a name of Healey Wallpaper.bmp]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 0530-Lots of gorgeous roads to drive.JPG]
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Perhaps I misunderstood.... Maybe you are interested in "paper" wall paper
vice computer screen wall paper?
Thanks
-skip-
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This is for the top of the walls in the room -- not the computer. Usually
comes in a 6 inch or so wide 15 foot strip.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Skip Saunders [mailto:tfsbj7@mindspring.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:00 PM
To: 'Michael Oritt'; 'John Sims'
Cc: 'Healey List'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers

Perhaps I misunderstood.... Maybe you are interested in "paper" wall paper
vice computer screen wall paper?
Thanks
-skip-
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Try:
http://www.rollout.ca/printyourartwork.html


-----Original Message-----
From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6@verizon.net]
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:07 PM
To: 'Skip Saunders'; 'Michael Oritt'
Cc: 'Healey List'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers

This is for the top of the walls in the room -- not the computer. Usually
comes in a 6 inch or so wide 15 foot strip.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Skip Saunders [mailto:tfsbj7@mindspring.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:00 PM
To: 'Michael Oritt'; 'John Sims'
Cc: 'Healey List'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers

Perhaps I misunderstood.... Maybe you are interested in "paper" wall paper
vice computer screen wall paper?
Thanks
-skip-
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 15:37:32 2012
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I think you're going to have problems finding this.  Closest I've seen is 
Disney cars, which I don't think fits the bill!  Some ideas:
     You might find a paper tablecloth and cut and paste
     You might find some decal-type things that would work.
     Stencils?
I haven't seen any of these with LBC, but maybe out there in Cyberland there 
are some.  Most of everything I have seen is either for a baby's room or a 
"cutesy" bathroom.
Good luck.

Mike
=======================

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 11:03 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers


> An off the wall request (pun intended). I am redoing my home/office which
> has golf themed border wallpaper at the top of the walls. Want to do it 
> with
> a LBC theme. Anyone know where I can get this? I have been all over the
> internet today and can not find anything.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 15:52:49 2012
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Well, there are some companies that will do this based on photos that one
supplies (thanks Michael Oritt) but for my home office it will cost around
250 smackeroos. Gotta find a way to get this done without the better half
seeing the package arrive (much less the credit card bill - hey, on second
thought not a problem -- I get them all electronically and she is computer
illiterate). I would gladly do a bulk order if anyone else is interested so
that we can get a volume discount but you guys would have to put up a strip
of photos of my car. You could do worse!

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Sinclair [mailto:phoenix722@comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:38 PM
To: John Sims
Cc: Healey Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers

I think you're going to have problems finding this.  Closest I've seen is
Disney cars, which I don't think fits the bill!  Some ideas:
     You might find a paper tablecloth and cut and paste
     You might find some decal-type things that would work.
     Stencils?
I haven't seen any of these with LBC, but maybe out there in Cyberland there
are some.  Most of everything I have seen is either for a baby's room or a
"cutesy" bathroom.
Good luck.

Mike
=======================
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
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Try a printshop that prints banners. They should be able to print it from
yor artword

On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:06 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

> This is for the top of the walls in the room -- not the computer. Usually
> comes in a 6 inch or so wide 15 foot strip.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Skip Saunders [mailto:tfsbj7@mindspring.com]
> Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:00 PM
> To: 'Michael Oritt'; 'John Sims'
> Cc: 'Healey List'
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers
>
> Perhaps I misunderstood.... Maybe you are interested in "paper" wall paper
> vice computer screen wall paper?
> Thanks
> -skip-
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>


-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
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Interesting.  Thanks.

Bob


On 4/29/2012 1:42 PM, Derek Job wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> For anyone interested I have prepared a graph comparing the following gear
> ratios.
>
> BN4
> 3000
> Later 3000
> Tulip
> Sebring
>
> The graph can be seen here
>
> http://www.healeysix.net/Gearratios.htm
>
> derek
> www.healeysix.net
>


-- 
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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

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Subject: [Healeys] Jacks
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Does anyone know who makes the reproduction jack handles for the Shelley LJ21
Jacks?
Or on the off chance has anyone got a LJ225 with the reinforced yoke (Ca311)
that they are looking to sell or would swap for the LJ21's.
Thanks Andy
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Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem
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Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and
the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down
enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop.

After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was
normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic
fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so
returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back.

In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for
one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the
floor like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but
there were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested
several times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously
something is wrong here!

I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that
the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front
and drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake
line which serves as a poor man's proportional setup.

Thoughts?

Best--Michael Oritt
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 30 06:35:56 2012
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Reid Trummel had a batch made many years ago.  I know they were correct for the 311, but probably fit other models (I 
bought one).   I doubt he has any left, but he moderates the Healey Forum on the British Car Forum website so you could 
post the question there: http://www.britishcarforum.com

Reid sold a 311 on eBay a while ago; IIRC it went for over $400.  I have a 311--I'm going to use it to finance my 
retirement.

Bob


On 4/30/2012 2:34 AM, andy pole wrote:
> Does anyone know who makes the reproduction jack handles for the Shelley LJ21
> Jacks?
> Or on the off chance has anyone got a LJ225 with the reinforced yoke (Ca311)
> that they are looking to sell or would swap for the LJ21's.
> Thanks Andy
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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Sorry I can't really help, but could it be the infamous "LBC intermittent 
cardiac stimulator"?
GaryB

-----Original Message----- 
From: Michael Oritt
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 7:17 AM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem

Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and
the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down
enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop.

After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was
normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic
fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so
returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back.

In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for
one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the
floor like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but
there were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested
several times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously
something is wrong here!

I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that
the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front
and drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake
line which serves as a poor man's proportional setup.

Thoughts?

Best--Michael Oritt
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Just have it sent to a fellow Club Member (with, say a BJ-7 or BJ-8
w/different Body Colour so it's NOT wanted<G>), John <G> !

Ed



On 4/29/2012 4:52 PM, John Sims wrote:
> Gotta find a way to get this done without the better half
> seeing the package arrive
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To: "'Michael Oritt'" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "'Austin Healey'"
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Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 07:45:21 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake problem
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Hi Michael,
 
It does sound like a leak of sorts.
But, it could also be a brake temporary locked up and the brake fluid
overheated.  That might explain why you cannot duplicate the problem in the
garage.
 
  Ron
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 6:17 AM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem
 
Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and
the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down
enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop.
 
After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was
normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic
fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so
returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back.
 
In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for
one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the floor
like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but there
were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested several
times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously something is
wrong here!
 
I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that
the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front and
drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake line
which serves as a poor man's proportional setup.
 
Thoughts?
 
Best--Michael Oritt
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 30 08:47:22 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks
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While on the subject of jacks I'm looking for one for my very early BN1.
I understand that this is a Shelley which has "6 INCH" cast into the side
opposite the brand name.
I recognize that this may be a tall order but if anyone they would sell I
would like to hear from them.
Failing that if someone has one and the time I would really appreciate some
good photos.
-- 
Michael Salter

        Check My Blog
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake problem
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Hi Michael,
My guess would be that the master cylinder seal is starting to fail.
You will probably find that if you press VERY gently on the pedal it will
ever so slowly go to the floor as fluid bypasses the seal.
If you stomp on the pedal it will work normally.
What happens in these cases is that the fluid pressure on the downside of
the seal presses the seal lip in and makes it seal against the piston, if
you apply pressure very slowly the pressure does not build up in the system
quickly enough to press the seal lip in to the piston and the fluid flows
past the seal and back to the reservoir.

-- 
Michael Salter

        Check My Blog
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

On Mon, Apr 30, 2012 at 7:17 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>wrote:

> Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and
> the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down
> enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop.
>
> After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was
> normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic
> fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so
> returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back.
>
> In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for
> one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the
> floor like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but
> there were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested
> several times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously
> something is wrong here!
>
> I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that
> the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front
> and drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake
> line which serves as a poor man's proportional setup.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 30 09:22:56 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks
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Thanks Bob, I'm on BCF as Andybj8.
I didn't explain very well I'm after the Lj21 handles to sell as complete with
the jack. Or to swap a 311 jack (already have handle) for the two Lj21 jacks.
Didn't Reid sell a Lj21 for $365 odd as well, but with handles?
Anyone know what Shelley jack uses the same handle as the 21? I did plan on
trying to get one and see if I could get a fabricator to make some up.

> Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 05:00:58 -0700
> From: bspidell@comcast.net
> To: ampole@hotmail.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks
>
> Reid Trummel had a batch made many years ago.  I know they were correct for
the 311, but probably fit other models (I
> bought one).   I doubt he has any left, but he moderates the Healey Forum on
the British Car Forum website so you could
> post the question there: http://www.britishcarforum.com
>
> Reid sold a 311 on eBay a while ago; IIRC it went for over $400.  I have a
311--I'm going to use it to finance my
> retirement.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 4/30/2012 2:34 AM, andy pole wrote:
> > Does anyone know who makes the reproduction jack handles for the Shelley
LJ21
> > Jacks?
> > Or on the off chance has anyone got a LJ225 with the reinforced yoke
(Ca311)
> > that they are looking to sell or would swap for the LJ21's.
> > Thanks Andy
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks
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Michael see:
http://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/shelley_jacks.htm
Cheers

> Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:54:38 -0400
> From: michaelsalter@gmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks
>
> While on the subject of jacks I'm looking for one for my very early BN1.
> I understand that this is a Shelley which has "6 INCH" cast into the side
> opposite the brand name.
> I recognize that this may be a tall order but if anyone they would sell I
> would like to hear from them.
> Failing that if someone has one and the time I would really appreciate some
> good photos.
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>         Check My Blog
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
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Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 08:02:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake problem
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Hi Michael,

There is a small hole thatis located directly in front of the
pressure seal called a Compensating Portthat allows fluid to flow into the
master cylinder from the Fluid Reservoir.  After much use the lip of the seal
will develop a small groove where it rubs over the port as you apply the
brakes.  In time that groove will become deep enough that under pressure the
seal doesn't expand enough in the area of the groove to seal off the bore and
will freely travel forward.  Until the groove gets big enough to be a complete
failure you will experience the described problem on 
light applications of
the brake pedal. If you apply the brake pedal firmly the seal will expand
positively against the the bore but fluid will slowly bypass the seal as the
seal relaxes. The symptoms you describe sounds like that may be the problem. 
You can sometimes evaluate this condition if you get someone to remove the
Reservoir Cap and watch for a slight blip of fluid as you slowly apply the
brake pedal.  


Hope this helps,
Ron Mitchell
BN6
BN7  


 
________________________________
 From: Michael Oritt
<michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Monday, April 30, 2012 7:17 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem
 
Yesterday
while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and
the pedal went
to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down
enough that I
could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop.

After a few deep
breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was
normal and the brakes
functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic
fluid reservoir and it was
full. I was less than a mile from the garage so
returned slowly though the
brakes continued to work fine and got me back.

In the garage I applied the
brakes a few more times, all normal except for
one time when I held my foot on
the pedal it and it went slowly to the
floor like I was pushing fluid out
somewhere through a very small leak but
there were no leaks. Next push the
brake pedal was high and firm. Retested
several times at 15 to 30 minute
intervals--no problems, but obviously
something is wrong here!

I haven't
pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that
the return
valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front
and drums in
back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake
line which
serves as a poor man's proportional setup.

Thoughts?
Best--Michael Oritt
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From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 08:13:08 -0700
To: scott willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Pad Squeal
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The piston the was frozen is probably not moving equally compared to  
the other piston in the caliper. 	 That will cause the pads to no  
press flush on the rotor and then cause a squeal. The calipers will  
need to be rebuilt and probably new pistons.


On Apr 28, 2012, at 1:40 PM, scott willis wrote:

> Hi,
> I just replaced the pads on the rt front caliper that had one side  
> sticking. I
> used David Nock's technique by pulling the thick side out and  
> pushing the
> brake to free the caliper. It worked great. I pushed both calipers  
> back in and
> installed new metal shims and new pads. But now I have a louder  
> squeal than
> ever. I did not put shims in the left side yet. The squeal sounds  
> like it is
> coming from the rt side I just serviced.
>
> Any ideas how to stop this LOUD squeal?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Scott Willis
> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
> 59 MGA
> 66 E-Type FHC
>
> http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
> BG Euro Classics Car Club President
> Bowling Green, KY
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell@comcast.net>, healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] Tires Again
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Pirelli CN 36's are available from some sources again in 185/70. I loved them
in the 70's.
Not Cheap.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 30 11:12:49 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake problem
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Ron--

Thanks for the good tip. Though the failure mode you describe does not
correlate exactly with my experience in case the MC is up for removal,
inspection and rebuild.  Until then the 100's driving privileges have been
suspended.

Best--Michael

On Mon, Apr 30, 2012 at 11:02 AM, Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi Michael,
>
> There is a small hole that is located directly in front of the pressure
> seal called a Compensating Port that allows fluid to flow into the master
> cylinder from the Fluid Reservoir.  After much use the lip of the seal will
> develop a small groove where it rubs over the port as you apply the
> brakes.  In time that groove will become deep enough that under pressure
> the seal doesn't expand enough in the area of the groove to seal off the
> bore and will freely travel forward.  Until the groove gets big enough to
> be a complete failure you will experience the described problem on light
> applications of the brake pedal. If you apply the brake pedal firmly the
> seal will expand positively against the the bore but fluid will slowly
> bypass the seal as the seal relaxes. The symptoms you describe sounds
> like that may be the problem.  You can sometimes evaluate this condition if
> you get someone to remove the Reservoir Cap and watch for a slight blip of
> fluid as you slowly apply the brake pedal.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Ron Mitchell
> BN6
> BN7
>
>
>
>   ------------------------------
> *From:* Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> *To:* Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, April 30, 2012 7:17 AM
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Brake problem
>
> Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and
> the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down
> enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop.
>
> After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was
> normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic
> fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so
> returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back.
>
> In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for
> one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the
> floor like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but
> there were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested
> several times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously
> something is wrong here!
>
> I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that
> the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front
> and drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake
> line which serves as a poor man's proportional setup.
>
> Thoughts?
> Best--Michael Oritt
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks
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Mike
I have a Shelley jack per your discription with DL. jack only. No handle or
jack bag.
I'll send photos in follow up email
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter michaelsalter@gmail.com


While on the subject of jacks I'm looking for one for my very early BN1.
 understand that this is a Shelley which has "6 INCH" cast into the side
pposite the brand name.
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From: Richard Korn <cynicbass@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 23:47:58 +0000
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks
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Michael,


There is an excellent article with photos by Roger Moment in the nov-dec 2011
Austin Healey Magazine about Original Equipment Tools for all Austin Healey
models.  Very well written with all jack models shown.

Richard
56 BN2 w/LJ21 55

Sent from Ricky's iPad

On Apr 30, 2012, at 13:54, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:

> While on the subject of jacks I'm looking for one for my very early BN1.
> I understand that this is a Shelley which has "6 INCH" cast into the side
> opposite the brand name.
> I recognize that this may be a tall order but if anyone they would sell I
> would like to hear from them.
> Failing that if someone has one and the time I would really appreciate some
> good photos.
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>        Check My Blog
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint Stripper
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Mitch,

Has anyone mentioned soda blasting to you?

I am curious to know if this is a viable option.

George C
54 100 in need of stripping
59 AN5 driver
Flagstaff, AZ
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: caddi5@comcast.net
  To: healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 6:34 AM
  Subject: [Healeys] Paint Stripper


  Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry...........................I have
used paint stripper many years ago and was just wondering if there were any
NEW and IMPROVED brands avail.
  I think I will strip the hardtop by hand(sanding)..................doors
(have them dipped chemically)..................and the shrouds using Aircraft
stripper.(carefully)


  Thanks Again
  Mitch
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake problem
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Rebuild the master cylinder. I had the exact same thing happen to me one time,
only it was the clutch pedal. I stabbed the pedal again and it worked fine.


Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 07:17:08 -0400
> From: michael.oritt@gmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem
>
> Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and
> the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down
> enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop.
>
> After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was
> normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic
> fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so
> returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back.
>
> In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for
> one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the
> floor like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but
> there were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested
> several times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously
> something is wrong here!
>
> I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that
> the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front
> and drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake
> line which serves as a poor man's proportional setup.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From: Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
To: George Castleberry <leavcast@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint Stripper
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It's a viable option, but does have it's own special set of drawbacks.
Those are primarily the post blasting cleaning. I have a small cabinet
where I soda blast parts. To get the soda off I then have to treat
with hot water and vinegar, finally blowing dry with compressed air.

Jody

On 4/30/12, George Castleberry <leavcast@gmail.com> wrote:
> Mitch,
>
> Has anyone mentioned soda blasting to you?
>
> I am curious to know if this is a viable option.
>
> George C
> 54 100 in need of stripping
> 59 AN5 driver
> Flagstaff, AZ
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: caddi5@comcast.net
>   To: healeys@autox.team.net
>   Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 6:34 AM
>   Subject: [Healeys] Paint Stripper
>
>
>   Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry...........................I
> have
> used paint stripper many years ago and was just wondering if there were any
> NEW and IMPROVED brands avail.
>   I think I will strip the hardtop by hand(sanding)..................doors
> (have them dipped chemically)..................and the shrouds using
> Aircraft
> stripper.(carefully)
>
>
>   Thanks Again
>   Mitch
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>


-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from
the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams
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We have had a little experience with having items soda blasting -- works 
beautifully to remove paint from aluminum, not so well for paint from 
pitted/rusty steel.  Haven't tried it on areas with bondo under the paint.

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Castleberry" <leavcast@gmail.com>
To: <caddi5@comcast.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint Stripper


> Mitch,
>
> Has anyone mentioned soda blasting to you?
>
> I am curious to know if this is a viable option.
>
> George C
> 54 100 in need of stripping
> 59 AN5 driver
> Flagstaff, AZ
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks
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Richard

Do you or any of the other listers Have the ability to forward to me a copy 
of Roger Moments article in the Nov/Dec copy of Austin Healey Magazine as I 
don't have access to same.

I have collected various tools  for my cars over the years including some 
earlier tools but am not 100% sure which models they may relate to.

Any assistance would be appreciated

Regards from down under
Graeme
BJ8

Email: molony@dodo.com.au

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Korn" <cynicbass@gmail.com>
To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks


> Michael,
>
>
> There is an excellent article with photos by Roger Moment in the nov-dec 
> 2011
> Austin Healey Magazine about Original Equipment Tools for all Austin 
> Healey
> models.  Very well written with all jack models shown.
>
> Richard
> 56 BN2 w/LJ21 55
>
> Sent from Ricky's iPad
>
> On Apr 30, 2012, at 13:54, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> While on the subject of jacks I'm looking for one for my very early BN1.
>> I understand that this is a Shelley which has "6 INCH" cast into the side
>> opposite the brand name.
>> I recognize that this may be a tall order but if anyone they would sell I
>> would like to hear from them.
>> Failing that if someone has one and the time I would really appreciate 
>> some
>> good photos.
>> --
>> Michael Salter
>>
>>        Check My Blog
>> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
>> _______________________________________________
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