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Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 with single Weber carb
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Hi all

Does anyone have any experience with a single Weber (45 DCOE) on a 100/4.

There is very little information in my Weber books.

We're looking for a good starting point for jets etc

regards

John Rowe
Western Australia
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 with single Weber carb
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John Rowe wrote:

> Hi all
>
> Does anyone have any experience with a single Weber (45 DCOE) on a 100/4.
>
> There is very little information in my Weber books.
>
> We're looking for a good starting point for jets etc
>
> regards
>
> John Rowe
> Western Australia
> ______________________
>
>
John
Some years back, say 1970 I say a Melbourne 100/4 with a 58mm 
Weber!!!!!!!!!!  It must have been reasonable because;
    a.  he drove it 550 mile up from Melbourne
    b.  it did not catch fire, not like my poorly jetted single Weber on 
a GM Holden 6 cyl engine fitted to my BN.4    Two cwt. lighter, 1500rpm 
mmore available and an 'all - night- chemist - cam' where the valves 
almost never closed. ( chemist = drug store)
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Subject: [Healeys] jacks
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A variation on the theme.

I have a mechanical scissors jack (have to turn the handle around clockwise).

Last year I had a flat and found that my old age has robed me of strength and
I could not get the wheel off the ground. Fortunately a strong young man
stopped to help.

I have been looking at alternative jakes and have focused on the  the scissors
jack (handle pumps up and down just like a standard floor jack.
Called Big Red you can find it at torinjacksusa.com, Model T1152.

Itbs a little bigger than I would like but would allow me to do the job.

|Any thoughts?

Chris Dimmock your response to me of Sept/11 is still a good idea. I am just
wondering about this one.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  1 13:36:03 2012
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If interested, the model number is T11152 (note three 1's)

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 1:58 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] jacks

A variation on the theme.

I have a mechanical scissors jack (have to turn the handle around
clockwise).

Last year I had a flat and found that my old age has robed me of strength
and I could not get the wheel off the ground. Fortunately a strong young man
stopped to help.

I have been looking at alternative jakes and have focused on the  the
scissors jack (handle pumps up and down just like a standard floor jack.
Called Big Red you can find it at torinjacksusa.com, Model T1152.

Itbs a little bigger than I would like but would allow me to do the job.

|Any thoughts?

Chris Dimmock your response to me of Sept/11 is still a good idea. I am just
wondering about this one.
$12.75
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From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks
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extra copies of the nov/dec 2011 issue of ah mag with the comprehensive
tool & jack article by roger moment are available for $5 + $2 shipping.
checks payable to ahcusa.  for shipping outside the u.s., increase the
shipping to $3

jerry wall
7217 birchmont dr.
rowlett, tx 75089

On Mon, Apr 30, 2012 at 9:57 AM, andy pole <ampole@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Michael see:
> http://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/shelley_jacks.htm
> Cheers
>
> > Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:54:38 -0400
> > From: michaelsalter@gmail.com
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks
> >
> > While on the subject of jacks I'm looking for one for my very early BN1.
> > I understand that this is a Shelley which has "6 INCH" cast into the side
> > opposite the brand name.
> > I recognize that this may be a tall order but if anyone they would sell I
> > would like to hear from them.
> > Failing that if someone has one and the time I would really appreciate
> some
> > good photos.
> > --
> > Michael Salter
> >
> >         Check My Blog
> > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> >
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> _______________________________________________
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>


-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Dr. C. Rubino'" <ruvino@ripnet.com>, "'healeylist'"
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Available at Amazon.com and Pep Boys among others. Around 60 bucks.
If interested, the model number is T11152 (note three 1's)

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 1:58 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] jacks

A variation on the theme.

I have a mechanical scissors jack (have to turn the handle around
clockwise).

Last year I had a flat and found that my old age has robed me of strength
and I could not get the wheel off the ground. Fortunately a strong young man
stopped to help.

I have been looking at alternative jakes and have focused on the  the
scissors jack (handle pumps up and down just like a standard floor jack.
Called Big Red you can find it at torinjacksusa.com, Model T1152.

Itbs a little bigger than I would like but would allow me to do the job.

|Any thoughts?

Chris Dimmock your response to me of Sept/11 is still a good idea. I am just
wondering about this one.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  1 14:08:55 2012
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Date: Tue, 01 May 2012 21:34:45 +0200
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
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Hi
For the lazy ones around, there are scissors jacks with an electrical 
motor on it, just plug it into your cigar lighter and lift the wheel off 
the ground. Here's a link to a swedish supplier, it's about 100 US$ and 
can cope with two tons. I'm sure you have the similar in your own country.
http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Verktyg-och-Verkstadsutrustning/Lyftverktyg/Saxdomkraft-elektrisk-2-ton-15367/

Per

Dr. C. Rubino skrev 2012-05-01 19:58:
> A variation on the theme.
>
> I have a mechanical scissors jack (have to turn the handle around clockwise).
>
> Last year I had a flat and found that my old age has robed me of strength and
> I could not get the wheel off the ground. Fortunately a strong young man
> stopped to help.
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Dr. R.:  Electric.  Central Hydraulics, Electric Scissor Jack, 12 volt, 2 
ton capacity.  Model 95851.  Minimum unit height: 4 3/4 inches; Maximum 
lifting height:  13 1/2 inches,  Overall dimensions: 15 1/2 L, 6 1/4 W, 4 H; 
weight 12 pounds.  Only physical effort needed is getting it in and out of 
the trunk and pushing the buttons on the corded remote.

Where to buy?  Last one I saw was at Harbor Freight.  Walmart had them at 
one time.  I have seen them in catalogs.  I am going out to various car 
parts stores today and will add this to my list of things to look for.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 10:58 AM
Subject: [Healeys] jacks


>A variation on the theme.
>
> I have a mechanical scissors jack (have to turn the handle around 
> clockwise).
>
> Last year I had a flat and found that my old age has robed me of strength 
> and
> I could not get the wheel off the ground. Fortunately a strong young man
> stopped to help.
>
> I have been looking at alternative jakes and have focused on the  the 
> scissors
> jack (handle pumps up and down just like a standard floor jack.
> Called Big Red you can find it at torinjacksusa.com, Model T1152.
>
> Itbs a little bigger than I would like but would allow me to do the job.
>
> |Any thoughts?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  1 14:23:41 2012
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From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
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Carl:

One thing that one of my Healey buddies found that works well is the factory 
jack from a current to late model Chrysler / Dodge minivan - we buy them 
from the auto wreckers for not very much money.  It's good because the 
operating handle is incorporated, and it fits well in the space that the 
original jack is stowed, with most of the thing projecting downwards so that 
the spare still stows easily on top of it.  You don't have a jack handle 
running around the boot.

Haven't had to use one yet, but what I can do is take a couple of photos for 
you and send them - I just finished the install on my BJ8.


Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb



-----Original Message----- 
From: Dr. C. Rubino
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 10:58 AM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] jacks

A variation on the theme.

I have a mechanical scissors jack (have to turn the handle around 
clockwise).

Last year I had a flat and found that my old age has robed me of strength 
and
I could not get the wheel off the ground. Fortunately a strong young man
stopped to help.

I have been looking at alternative jakes and have focused on the  the 
scissors
jack (handle pumps up and down just like a standard floor jack.
Called Big Red you can find it at torinjacksusa.com, Model T1152.

Itbs a little bigger than I would like but would allow me to do the job.

|Any thoughts?

Chris Dimmock your response to me of Sept/11 is still a good idea. I am just
wondering about this one.
_______________________________________________
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Dr. R.:  Exactly what Per Schoerner and I are talking about.  I Googled 
"electric scissor jack" and two of the 149,000 hits indicate that Harbor 
Freight and Amazon are sources for this jack. There is also a YouTube video: 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvh2rNJd8Po

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Per Schoerner" <healeyguy@bredband.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] jacks


> Hi
> For the lazy ones around, there are scissors jacks with an electrical 
> motor on it, just plug it into your cigar lighter and lift the wheel off 
> the ground. Here's a link to a swedish supplier, it's about 100 US$ and 
> can cope with two tons. I'm sure you have the similar in your own country.
> http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Verktyg-och-Verkstadsutrustning/Lyftverktyg/Saxdomkraft-elektrisk-2-ton-15367/
>
> Per
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From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
To: "'Earl Kagna'" <kags@shaw.ca>, "'Dr. C. Rubino'"
	<ruvino@ripnet.com>, "'healeylist'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] jacks
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I had been bidding on LJ-225 jacks on Ebay for my Healey for about 6-years.
I even bid on cracked and broken ones, just to have an original one in my
trunk of my  BJ-7.  Someone always pipped me in the last 20 seconds.  I
finally gave up.  I think that the last one I bid on went for $300 US.

Randy
63 BJ7
60 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  1 17:14:31 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250
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A week or so ago I sent a note about a 1963 Daimler SP-250 "Dart" that 
I ran across. The owner has since told me that he does want to sell his 
excess collection of cars, including the Daimler.

  It is an unusual LBC, complete except for the missing transmission, 
which I understand is a TR-3 derivation. I
He is asking $20K as-is, where-is, which is the Holly, MI area. Later 
he will list the car on Ebay and Hemmings for a higher price.

  Contact me if you have an interest in this unique vehicle.

  Regards,
  Gordy
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  1 17:42:55 2012
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] jacks
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I have seen somewhere a scissors jack that runs off of 12V--I believe it
has a standard cigarette lighter plug.

Best--Michael Oritt
---------------------
On Tue, May 1, 2012 at 1:58 PM, Dr. C. Rubino <ruvino@ripnet.com> wrote:

> A variation on the theme.
>
> I have a mechanical scissors jack (have to turn the handle around
> clockwise).
>
> Last year I had a flat and found that my old age has robed me of strength
> and
> I could not get the wheel off the ground. Fortunately a strong young man
> stopped to help.
>
> I have been looking at alternative jakes and have focused on the  the
> scissors
> jack (handle pumps up and down just like a standard floor jack.
> Called Big Red you can find it at torinjacksusa.com, Model T1152.
>
> Itb s a little bigger than I would like but would allow me to do the job.
>
> |Any thoughts?
>
> Chris Dimmock your response to me of Sept/11 is still a good idea. I am
> just
> wondering about this one.
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  1 18:29:28 2012
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From: "John Trifari" <jtrifari@comcast.net>
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Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 16:56:32 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] jacks
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I have a scissors jack in my BN1.  There's a 3/4-inch nut where the handle
is inserted, so I just use a 3/4-inch socket and a long extension rod.
Cranking it up is fairly routine.  John Trifari  Golden Gate AHC

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 4:16 PM
To: Dr. C. Rubino
Cc: healeylist
Subject: Re: [Healeys] jacks

I have seen somewhere a scissors jack that runs off of 12V--I believe it has
a standard cigarette lighter plug.

Best--Michael Oritt
---------------------
On Tue, May 1, 2012 at 1:58 PM, Dr. C. Rubino <ruvino@ripnet.com> wrote:

> A variation on the theme.
>
> I have a mechanical scissors jack (have to turn the handle around 
> clockwise).
>
> Last year I had a flat and found that my old age has robed me of 
> strength and I could not get the wheel off the ground. Fortunately a 
> strong young man stopped to help.
>
> I have been looking at alternative jakes and have focused on the  the 
> scissors jack (handle pumps up and down just like a standard floor 
> jack.
> Called Big Red you can find it at torinjacksusa.com, Model T1152.
>
> Itb s a little bigger than I would like but would allow me to do the job.
>
> |Any thoughts?
>
> Chris Dimmock your response to me of Sept/11 is still a good idea. I 
> am just wondering about this one.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  1 18:47:33 2012
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Date: Tue, 01 May 2012 20:27:46 -0400
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Subject: [Healeys] California residents
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If you live in CA, call your legislators:

This year, Mustang enthusiast and California State Senator Doug LaMalfa 
introduced a bill to exempt all motor vehicles prior to the 1981 model 
year from the emissions inspection requirement. Simply put, Senate Bill 
1224 seeks to recover some of the ground that was lost in 2004. Already, 
hundreds (if not thousands) of Californians have responded to the call 
in support of the measure.

S.B. 1224 would provide an exemption for only one-half of one percent 
of California vehicles on the road today. Hardly an overwhelming 
number, said SEMA Vice President of Government Affairs Steve McDonald. 
Not surprisingly, opposition is coming from the states air quality 
management districts, which argue that this bill increases the burden on 
regions to meet air quality standards set by state and federal governments.

This bills success will certainly make it easier for Californias 
enthusiasts to enjoy a wider array of classic vehicles, including sports 
cars and trucks. However, victory would also represent a common sense 
solution to an unnecessary burden on old car collectors and lower-income 
citizens. The idea behind exempting any class of vehicles is to reduce 
costs while not losing appreciable emissions reductions, McDonald 
added. This strategy builds support for emissions inspection programs, 
but also directs finite resources to where they will be most valuable in 
cleaning the air. In light of hard economic times and Californias 
continued commitment to focusing limited resources where they can be 
most efficient in creating clean air, S.B. 1224 is a no brainer.

At press time, S.B. 1224 had been granted reconsideration after failing 
to be approved by the Senate Transportation and Housing Committee on a 
3-4 vote, with two committee members not voting. The bill will be 
reconsidered in a future committee hearing.
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
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Thought I've give a little summary of the input I got on tires.

Avons and Dunlops are available, as are Michelin XAS, but I can't find a convenient source and they apparently are mucho 
expensive.  Realistically, Vredestein Sprint Classics--in either 185R or 185/70R are the only practical choice (unless 
you really want to spend big bucks for the others,  if you can find them).  Vreds are pretty good, I've run a couple 
sets with no problems.

Heaven help us if Vredestein ever goes out of business or decides not to support the classic car market (FWIW, their 
brochures have a red 3000 on the cover).

Anyone comes across a good new source for these sizes of tires please let us know.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Bob



On 4/29/2012 5:06 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
> Didn't know you could still get Avon's.
>
>
>
>


-- 
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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

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Today an add on to Forza 4 on the XBox 360 was released that included a 1965
Austin-Healey 3000 MkIII.  I just ran my first lap and recorded a bit of the
replay so people could see the graphics.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1WkfwPROmU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I had to record this with my iPad, so the video comes out a little dark, but
you get the idea.

Patton
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
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Bob--

Not sure which to which Dunlops you are referring but the Avons are
available through Sasco Tires and I believe the Michelin XAS's through
Coker.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Tue, May 1, 2012 at 9:22 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Thought I've give a little summary of the input I got on tires.
>
> Avons and Dunlops are available, as are Michelin XAS, but I can't find a
> convenient source and they apparently are mucho expensive.  Realistically,
> Vredestein Sprint Classics--in either 185R or 185/70R are the only
> practical choice (unless you really want to spend big bucks for the others,
>  if you can find them).  Vreds are pretty good, I've run a couple sets with
> no problems.
>
> Heaven help us if Vredestein ever goes out of business or decides not to
> support the classic car market (FWIW, their brochures have a red 3000 on
> the cover).
>
> Anyone comes across a good new source for these sizes of tires please let
> us know.
>
> Thanks for all the feedback.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 4/29/2012 5:06 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
>
>> Didn't know you could still get Avon's.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey 3000 MkIII - Forza 4 Top Gear May
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Cool!   Dead ringer for my BJ8, inc. the chrome-tipped exhaust pipes.




On 5/1/2012 6:34 PM, Patton Dickson wrote:
> Today an add on to Forza 4 on the XBox 360 was released that included a 1965
> Austin-Healey 3000 MkIII.  I just ran my first lap and recorded a bit of the
> replay so people could see the graphics.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1WkfwPROmU&feature=youtube_gdata_player
>
> I had to record this with my iPad, so the video comes out a little dark, but
> you get the idea.
>
> Patton
> _______________________________________________
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

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Is it the consensus of the list that Vreds are not good in the rain?
I had the distinct impression I was hydoplaning on a trip through the  
Olympic Peninsula returning from a meet in Vancouver BC last summer.
This was at speeds of 50-60 mph on 3 year-old Vred 165s during heavy  
rain in the rainforest.  Others in the group didn't seem to have the  
problem.
Thanks for comments and observations,
Charlie

On Apr 28, 2012, at 6:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:

Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires?  Anything besides Vredestein  
(they're good tires, just wondering if there's anything else available)?

Good sources?

TIA,
Bob

-- 
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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

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I seem to drive in the rain a fair bit (I live in the Maritimes in Canada) and
haven't noticed any problems with the current Vred Sprint Classics on my BN4,
or the older pattern Vreds that I had before these.
Rick Swainwww.classicmotorart.cafull-colour drawings of your car
>
> Is it the consensus of the list that Vreds are not good in the rain?
> I had the distinct impression I was hydoplaning on a trip through the
> Olympic Peninsula returning from a meet in Vancouver BC last summer.
> This was at speeds of 50-60 mph on 3 year-old Vred 165s during heavy
> rain in the rainforest.  Others in the group didn't seem to have the
> problem.
> Thanks for comments and observations,
> Charlie
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Jerry Seinfeld and Ricky Gervais tweeting from a BJ8
http://tinyurl.com/7myyg5z


Rest of the story:

http://tinyurl.com/77s2v2p

Rick



Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
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I agree with Rick. We have driven across the USA 3 times in the last 5 years,
in all kinds of weather. The Vredesteins have done an excellent job.

Especially in the wet. We run the 185/70's on the 100's & 185R (/80) on the
BJ8. 165 seems to small for me.

Randy



On May 2, 2012, at 8:16 AM, Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com> wrote:

> I seem to drive in the rain a fair bit (I live in the Maritimes in Canada)
and
> haven't noticed any problems with the current Vred Sprint Classics on my
BN4,
> or the older pattern Vreds that I had before these.
> Rick Swainwww.classicmotorart.cafull-colour drawings of your car
>>
>> Is it the consensus of the list that Vreds are not good in the rain?
>> I had the distinct impression I was hydoplaning on a trip through the
>> Olympic Peninsula returning from a meet in Vancouver BC last summer.
>> This was at speeds of 50-60 mph on 3 year-old Vred 165s during heavy
>> rain in the rainforest.  Others in the group didn't seem to have the
>> problem.
>> Thanks for comments and observations,
>> Charlie
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Subject: [Healeys] For Dave Porter
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Dave,
  My direct reply to you got kicked back....

Hi Dave,
   An assortment of muscle cars, street rods, vintage drag racer, midget
circle racer, nothing else in the sports car realm.

   Gordy

On 5/01/2012 8:44 PM, David Porter wrote:

     What else is in his excess collection? If I may ask.. Dave 
frogeye@porterscustom.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  2 07:39:36 2012
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I think they are competent in the rain.  Modern high performance and 'rain' tires have at least one--usually two or 
more--deep, straight grooves to channel water away from some generally 'slick' tread, with more typical tread patterns 
on the edges.  Also, I imagine the compounding is different; i.e. softer for rain or HP tires.    Although I don't think 
the Sprint Classic is an 'all season' tire--the Sprint+ claims to be--it has that kind of tread pattern and no deep 
channels for moving water out of the way.

My Mustang came with decent BF Goodrich 'all season' tires.  They were a disaster in the rain--hydroplaned like 
crazy--and not very good in the dry.  I bought Continental HP tires--with several deep channels--and the difference is 
night and day in wet and dry.  Unfortunately, it looks like I'll only get 15-20K miles on them, but it's worth it.

Bob


On 5/2/2012 5:16 AM, Rick Swain wrote:
> I seem to drive in the rain a fair bit (I live in the Maritimes in Canada) and
> haven't noticed any problems with the current Vred Sprint Classics on my BN4,
> or the older pattern Vreds that I had before these.
> Rick Swainwww.classicmotorart.cafull-colour drawings of your car
>> Is it the consensus of the list that Vreds are not good in the rain?
>> I had the distinct impression I was hydoplaning on a trip through the
>> Olympic Peninsula returning from a meet in Vancouver BC last summer.
>> This was at speeds of 50-60 mph on 3 year-old Vred 165s during heavy
>> rain in the rainforest.  Others in the group didn't seem to have the
>> problem.
>> Thanks for comments and observations,
>> Charlie
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "'Patton Dickson'"
	<57healey@gmail.com>
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Patton,

Good stuff.  I need to get this game now.  I have been playing F1 2011
pretty seriously and before that GRID and F1 2010.

If you like racing particularly on line against like-minded enthusiasts you
gotta try F1 2011.  In Sept they release F1 2012 

Warm Regards,
 
Tracy Drummond
 


On 5/1/2012 6:34 PM, Patton Dickson wrote:
> Today an add on to Forza 4 on the XBox 360 was released that included 
> a 1965 Austin-Healey 3000 MkIII.  I just ran my first lap and recorded 
> a bit of the replay so people could see the graphics.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1WkfwPROmU&feature=youtube_gdata_played
d
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Charlie:

I run Vred 185/70 15's, and one of the things that I like best about them is 
the rain performance, in my opinion, especially compared to the Mich ZX's 
that I replaced.  Bear in mind that I live very close to the 'rainforest' - 
within sight of the Olympic Peninsula (but not the real rainy parts).  I 
think most people run too high a pressure in their Healeys - I run 
relatively low pressure - don't want to start another 'big thing' on the 
list.  I think pressure probably has a lot to do with how the tires feel in 
the wet.

The only tires that came close to them in the wet are the old Michelin 
XAS's, which haven't been available for a long, long time, probably 25 years 
or so.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Charlie Frazer
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 9:00 PM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: healeylist
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again

Is it the consensus of the list that Vreds are not good in the rain?
I had the distinct impression I was hydoplaning on a trip through the
Olympic Peninsula returning from a meet in Vancouver BC last summer.
This was at speeds of 50-60 mph on 3 year-old Vred 165s during heavy
rain in the rainforest.  Others in the group didn't seem to have the
problem.
Thanks for comments and observations,
Charlie

On Apr 28, 2012, at 6:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:

Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires?  Anything besides Vredestein
(they're good tires, just wondering if there's anything else available)?

Good sources?

TIA,
Bob
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Randy, et al,

getting outbid in the closing seconds used to be a problem for us as well.
Then my wife discovered Bidnip. This allows you to put in your top bid well
before the end of the auction and time when said bid is to be released. Has
worked on many occasions, but obviously not all, to get items we wanted
without sitting by the computer trying to get that last bid in. Just an FYI
for those not familiar with it. NFI, etc.

Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 09:31:13 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey 3000 MkIII - Forza 4 Top Gear May
 Add-On
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Its rare when I buy a game when it first comes out, and this is the first time
I have ever bought an add-on, but Forza 4 is reason enough to buy an XBox 360.
I hope F1 2012 has the Austin Track

I let my XBox gold account lapse, but head to head Healey racing my be worth
the $40 a year

I ran 4 tracks last night, pretty fun.  I got it up to 128MPH on the Le Mans
Old Mulsanne Circuit.

Patton

Sent from my iPad

On May 2, 2012, at 8:35 AM, "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net> wrote:

> Patton,
>
> Good stuff.  I need to get this game now.  I have been playing F1 2011
> pretty seriously and before that GRID and F1 2010.
>
> If you like racing particularly on line against like-minded enthusiasts you
> gotta try F1 2011.  In Sept they release F1 2012
>
> Warm Regards,
>
> Tracy Drummond
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey 3000 MkIII - Forza 4 Top Gear May
 Add-On
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On the Old Circuit without Chicanes?    I heard Dan Gurney talk about some
pilots having a cigarette on the Mulsanne straights before the chicanes were
added. 

You need a 5.565 gearset installed  (grin)

OK I may just go to gamestop today.

Warm Regards,
 
Tracy Drummond
 
PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey@charter.net | 408-394-3444
cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond
-----Original Message-----
From: Patton Dickson [mailto:57healey@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 7:31 AM
To: Tracy Drummond
Cc: Bob Spidell; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey 3000 MkIII - Forza 4 Top Gear May
Add-On

Its rare when I buy a game when it first comes out, and this is the first
time I have ever bought an add-on, but Forza 4 is reason enough to buy an
XBox 360.   I hope F1 2012 has the Austin Track

I let my XBox gold account lapse, but head to head Healey racing my be worth
the $40 a year

I ran 4 tracks last night, pretty fun.  I got it up to 128MPH on the Le Mans
Old Mulsanne Circuit. 

Patton

Sent from my iPad

On May 2, 2012, at 8:35 AM, "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net> wrote:

> Patton,
> 
> Good stuff.  I need to get this game now.  I have been playing F1 2011 
> pretty seriously and before that GRID and F1 2010.
> 
> If you like racing particularly on line against like-minded 
> enthusiasts you gotta try F1 2011.  In Sept they release F1 2012
> 
> Warm Regards,
> 
> Tracy Drummond
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Austin-Healey 3000 MkIII - Forza 4 Top Gear May
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Yes, it's at least 3 miles wide open...

It has setup, I may be able to change gear sets, I have been driving with the
standard setups

Sent from my iPad

On May 2, 2012, at 9:52 AM, "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net> wrote:

> On the Old Circuit without Chicanes?    I heard Dan Gurney talk about some
> pilots having a cigarette on the Mulsanne straights before the chicanes
were
> added.
>
> You need a 5.565 gearset installed  (grin)
>
> OK I may just go to gamestop today.
>
> Warm Regards,
>
> Tracy Drummond
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If you just put in what you are truly willing to pay at ebay itself
you'll either win or you won't based on that number. I never
understood the sniping thing. But then, i also hate auctions.

On 5/2/12, Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com> wrote:
> Randy, et al,
>
> getting outbid in the closing seconds used to be a problem for us as well.
> Then my wife discovered Bidnip. This allows you to put in your top bid well
> before the end of the auction and time when said bid is to be released. Has
> worked on many occasions, but obviously not all, to get items we wanted
> without sitting by the computer trying to get that last bid in. Just an FYI
> for those not familiar with it. NFI, etc.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
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-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from
the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams
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Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 08:07:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Charlie Frazer <cfrazer@jcomm.uoregon.edu>, Bob Spidell
	<bspidell@comcast.net>, Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
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Earl,

XASs are still available from Coker Tire here:
http://www.cokertire.com/165hr15-michelin-xas.html  but at $295 each are too
rich for my blood.  They're a great tire with good grip and very predictable. 
I just had to replace a set on my bugeye that were too old to by trusted and
shed a tear when they went to the discard pile.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 5/2/12, Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:

From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
To: "Charlie Frazer" <cfrazer@jcomm.uoregon.edu>, "Bob Spidell"
<bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 2, 2012, 10:23 AM

Charlie:

I run Vred 185/70 15's, and one of the things that I like best about them is
the rain performance, in my opinion, especially compared to the Mich ZX's that
I replaced.  Bear in mind that I live very close to the 'rainforest' - within
sight of the Olympic Peninsula (but not the real rainy parts).  I think most
people run too high a pressure in their Healeys - I run relatively low
pressure - don't want to start another 'big thing' on the list.  I think
pressure probably has a lot to do with how the tires feel in the wet.

The only tires that came close to them in the wet are the old Michelin XAS's,
which haven't been available for a long, long time, probably 25 years or so.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
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Subject: [Healeys] The ULTIMATE.................
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.........Frogeye (finished, that is <G> !) HAULER ! ! ! ! ! ! !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-bkq0CSzjQ&feature=related

Wonder if a Big Healey (my Hortense <G>) would fit <VBG> ?!?

Ed
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
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Yeah Rick, but not in the 175 size, which was / is much better on a Healey b
also, way too expensive for a normal road car, at least for me.  Thatbs why
I came to the conclusion b at least for me b the Vredbs are the best
compromise Meaning theybre great, except for the bvintageb look b big
thing for me is that the diameter is right.

Earl

From: HealeyRick
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 8:07 AM
To: Charlie Frazer ; Bob Spidell ; Earl Kagna
Cc: healeylist
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again

      Earl,

      XASs are still available from Coker Tire here:
http://www.cokertire.com/165hr15-michelin-xas.html  but at $295 each are too
rich for my blood.  They're a great tire with good grip and very predictable.
I just had to replace a set on my bugeye that were too old to by trusted and
shed a tear when they went to the discard pile.

      Rick

      Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

      --- On Wed, 5/2/12, Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:


        From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
        Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
        To: "Charlie Frazer" <cfrazer@jcomm.uoregon.edu>, "Bob Spidell"
<bspidell@comcast.net>
        Cc: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
        Date: Wednesday, May 2, 2012, 10:23 AM


        Charlie:

        I run Vred 185/70 15's, and one of the things that I like best about
them is the rain performance, in my opinion, especially compared to the Mich
ZX's that I replaced.  Bear in mind that I live very close to the 'rainforest'
- within sight of the Olympic Peninsula (but not the real rainy parts).  I
think most people run too high a pressure in their Healeys - I run relatively
low pressure - don't want to start another 'big thing' on the list.  I think
pressure probably has a lot to do with how the tires feel in the wet.

        The only tires that came close to them in the wet are the old Michelin
XAS's, which haven't been available for a long, long time, probably 25 years
or so.

        Earl Kagna
        Victoria, B.C.
        BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
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Awesome Rick!
How good is that!
Thanks for sharing. 
Best. 
Chris 

Sent from my iPhone

On 02/05/2012, at 10:29 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Jerry Seinfeld and Ricky Gervais tweeting from a BJ8
> http://tinyurl.com/7myyg5z
> 
> 
> Rest of the story:
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/77s2v2p
> 
> Rick
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Ed. Awesome BUS!!
Didn't even see a TOWBAR
But geez. I was at least expecting a team woopass guy to back a bugeye off a
trailer !!
;-!
What are those totally American polished alloy motor home things from the
1950's/ early '60's called??
One day, I'll get one of those. And fly to the US.
One of them - big polished rigs. With a  matching trailer.
Route 66. Black and white car on the back. See all you guys.
zzzzz hazzz zzzzzz arrzzzz
Just need one more thing.
Oh. Yeah.
I need to both wake up, and I need win the lottery!!


Sent from my iPhone
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Well, I disagree with that. I Live in Lake Tahoe and we get our share of rain
and snow. I've had no problems in the rare occasion I get caught coming home
in the poor weather. I never go out of my way to put the Healey in wet wather
due ton rust. They actually do well in snow not being a mud/snow tire.
Rich Kahn

> From: cfrazer@jcomm.uoregon.edu
> To: bspidell@comcast.net
> Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 21:00:04 -0700
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
>
> Is it the consensus of the list that Vreds are not good in the rain?
> I had the distinct impression I was hydoplaning on a trip through the
> Olympic Peninsula returning from a meet in Vancouver BC last summer.
> This was at speeds of 50-60 mph on 3 year-old Vred 165s during heavy
> rain in the rainforest.  Others in the group didn't seem to have the
> problem.
> Thanks for comments and observations,
> Charlie
>
> On Apr 28, 2012, at 6:48 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires?  Anything besides Vredestein
> (they're good tires, just wondering if there's anything else available)?
>
> Good sources?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  2 14:17:51 2012
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Just Brits wrote:
> .........Frogeye (finished, that is<G>  !) HAULER ! ! ! ! ! ! !
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-bkq0CSzjQ&feature=related
>
> Wonder if a Big Healey (my Hortense<G>) would fit<VBG>  ?!?

Blastolene sounded familiar. Then I remembered Big Bertha.

<http://www.blastolene.com/Bertha/index.htm>

Now *that's* a two-seater.  Although I'd take the DecoLiner.

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net>
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Grants Pass is about 4 hours south of Portland, guess I need to take a road
trip....

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

 On May 2, 2012 12:21 PM, "Kent McLean" <kentmclean@comcast.net> wrote:

> Just Brits wrote:
>
>> .........Frogeye (finished, that is<G>  !) HAULER ! ! ! ! ! ! !
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?**v=L-bkq0CSzjQ&feature=related<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-bkq0CSzjQ&feature=related>
>>
>> Wonder if a Big Healey (my Hortense<G>) would fit<VBG>  ?!?
>>
>
> Blastolene sounded familiar. Then I remembered Big Bertha.
>
> <http://www.blastolene.com/**Bertha/index.htm<http://www.blastolene.com/Bertha/index.htm>
> >
>
> Now *that's* a two-seater.  Although I'd take the DecoLiner.
>
> --
> Kent McLean
> '56 100 BN2
> ______________________________**_________________
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Subject: [Healeys] Just 45 days to Conclave Louisville!
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Just 45 days to Conclave Louisville! Ben Moore and his staff have put together
a Fun and Exciting event for all Healey Enthusiasts.

As you watch the Kentucky Derby this weekend envision that you will be on
Millionaires Row in June! A great Car Show location at the Waterfront Park
awaits you. A fun Rally, Funkhana, Gymkhana and plenty of relaxing social
activities to make your visit to Conclave  a memorable experience.

Join us in Louisville in June. For more information visit
http://www.2012conclave.com/

Regalia pre-orders, with a choice of over 30 colors, are due by May 15.

The Hotel special rate and room block requires a reservation be made by May
15.

Don't delay, register today!


Jim Werner
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
Louisville, KY
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Airstream. o?<


Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  2 19:13:34 2012
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Excellent Moss Motors part
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I had bought replacement side screen rubbers from one of the UK suppliers
one of which arrived rotten and full of cracks. In addition, the angle
between the vertical and horizontal components was too great - approximately
45 degrees vs the side curtain itself which is about 30 degrees from
vertical.

 

I ordered replacements from Moss and the angle on their part matches that of
the side screen. This should reduce the strain on the rubber at the juncture
between the two components.

 

Kudos to Moss!

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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Subject: [Healeys] Boot Photo
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G'day

 

I am on the search for a photo of an open boot (trunk) that's full of
luggage, spares etc as if the car (and owners) is about to go on a trip.

 

Would anyone have one in high resolution they can send me please?

 

Many thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia
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Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 alloy door trims
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Oh wise ones,
I'm looking for a set of hens teeth..
Early 100s had alloy door trims made from aluminum sheet with a pattern of
elliptical rather than round impressions.
Does anyone know if this material is available?

-- 
Michael Salter
I have BJ8 Water Pump Rebuild Kits
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From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
Date: Thu, 03 May 2012 11:33:53 -0400
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Subject: [Healeys] Reattaching hood to front bow
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About 6 inches at one end of the hood is pulled away from the bow. The hood was attached to the bow with 3/8 inch staples.

When reattaching, should an adhesive be used in addition to the staples? If so, which adhesive is recommended.

Al Malin
Tricarb
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Reattaching hood to front bow
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Tops are attached to the header rail with staples and then they are  
covered up by the hidum strip and it is also stapled in place.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 3, 2012, at 8:33 AM, Al Malin wrote:

> About 6 inches at one end of the hood is pulled away from the bow.  
> The hood was attached to the bow with 3/8 inch staples.
>
> When reattaching, should an adhesive be used in addition to the  
> staples? If so, which adhesive is recommended.
>
> Al Malin
> Tricarb
> _______________________________________________
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> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  3 14:26:27 2012
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From: "Rich Chrysler" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 15:19:54 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early BN1 alloy door trims
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Nobody makes the elliptical embossing as far as I know but Kilmartin's alloy
shut trims are the best and most accurate I've ever found. They do the
correct recess in the striker plate area, and while on that topic, they are
manufacturing the early narrow striker plate.

RICH

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: May-03-12 9:30 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 alloy door trims

Oh wise ones,
I'm looking for a set of hens teeth..
Early 100s had alloy door trims made from aluminum sheet with a pattern of
elliptical rather than round impressions.
Does anyone know if this material is available?

--
Michael Salter
I have BJ8 Water Pump Rebuild Kits
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  3 15:59:21 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early BN1 alloy door trims
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Hi Larry,
 I've contacted John and although they have the standard round pattern
trims they cannot get material for the elliptical pattern.
I'm working on a plan to produce a small quantity of the material but it is
going to be a little costly!!
I want to find a sample of the original to work from.
Unfortunately I tend to become a little anal about these things but...there
is only 1 "RIGHT"

-- 
Michael Salter
        I have BJ8 water pump kits

On Thu, May 3, 2012 at 4:39 PM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> Hi Mike, it may be worth a call to Greg at Kilmartins, in fact I have to
> call him today about my chassis, so I'll check for you.
> Cheers
> Larry
>
>
> On 3/05/2012 11:29 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
>> Oh wise ones,
>> I'm looking for a set of hens teeth..
>> Early 100s had alloy door trims made from aluminum sheet with a pattern of
>> elliptical rather than round impressions.
>> Does anyone know if this material is available?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May  4 13:56:58 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] David Lambert
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Would someone forward to me David Lambert's email address. Thanks and reply
off line.

Mel Brunet

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May  4 15:37:11 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] 1957 Morris Traveler for sale
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Hi Gang,

A friend is going to part with his 1957 Morris Traveler.
The English Woody!
1098cc engine with about 50,000 miles, runs strong. Front Disc Brakes. Front
seat belts. Radio. Spare parts. New paint 2011! A solid #2
If interested phone Brian Serff at 303-750-5746 or email him at
brian@brianserff.com.

Thanks,
Richard
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Just spent a terrific two hours with John Nikas and bGraceb at Allen
Hendricks shop in Greensboro (HendrixWireWheel).  Allen btook all of the
shake outb of Grace, so now Johnbs fillings wonbt be jarred out of his
mouth!  A split fuel line and other repairs were done. The stories John shared
with us were heartbreaking & inspiring, all at once.  Many people, touched by
cancer, are gaining a measure of peace and being up-lifted by the little car
that could and her gallant rider.  Several Triad AHCA members signed Grace in
remembrance of loved ones.  Ibm saving my signatures until Wanda and I
together meet up with Grace at Conclave Louisville.
John is one of the nicest men Ibve come across, and he and Grace deserve as
much support as we can give.  Please follow their journey through 50 states at
http://cc.ebay.com/drive-away-cancer/ and/or on facebook.  I say, through a
little cash in the kitty as well.
Gary Brierton
AHCA Prez
b67 BJ8 aka the Silver Bullet
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again
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Best price I found on Vredestein 185/70-15s was from Euro Tire in NJ (www.eurotire.com), thanks to a tip from a 
Lister.   They were $119ea and even with a little over $30ea shipping to CA they beat the package from Summit advertised 
on eBay--with 'free' shipping--by over $85 total.  They were supposedly manufactured this year.

I mentioned to the guy at Euro that Vreds are, realistically, the only choice in this and other sizes (Avons, Dunlops 
and Michelin are very expensive if they can be found at all).   I mentioned that we'll basically be screwed for tires if 
Vredestein ever quits the business; the guy at Euro said the managing director at Vredestein is a 'Healey Guy.'  That 
probably explains the red BJ8 on their brochures.

Thanks for the feedback everybody.

Bob



On 5/2/2012 5:16 AM, Rick Swain wrote:
> I seem to drive in the rain a fair bit (I live in the Maritimes in Canada) and
> haven't noticed any problems with the current Vred Sprint Classics on my BN4,
> or the older pattern Vreds that I had before these.
> Rick Swainwww.classicmotorart.cafull-colour drawings of your car
>>
>>
>>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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Subject: [Healeys] "Moving coil voltmeter"
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I may have a charging issue with my 3000. 

The fan belt could be tighter and that'll be my first adjustment.
Thereafter....

Well, the BMC book, Section N, makes reference to testing with a "moving
coil voltmeter". Am I correct in my hope and supposition that this is an old
fashioned meter with a needle? (Like the one I've had for the last 20
years). Yes, I do know that the book dates back to the early 60s so digital
meters weren't around(?), but I don't know what else was around then.
Certainly, I was around but I thought then that all meters were the same ie
with a needle and presumably a coil...? A "moving" coil??

Any advice would be appreciated.

Simon
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Listers, Today I located the site of the former Austin Healey dealership, Ketterson Motors, 89 Chambers St, in Newburgh NY. Ketterson was also the local Studabaker dealer. It's now a postal truck facility. If this is relavent to anyones archives let me know and I can send a photo as it looks today.
Best
JK
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Subject: [Healeys] Replacement side screen plexiglas install question
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Have got my weatherstrips installed on my sidescreens - thanks to those who
helped with that.

 

Now have to replace a broken Plexiglas panel  - do the panels need to be
heated in sunlight or hot water to help them flex enough to install in the
channels?

 

Has anyone ever tried freezing them to shrink them?

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "Moving coil voltmeter"
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My immediate answer is yes, moving coil is the 'old style' analog voltmeter, but why would they specify 'moving coil?' So I checked Wikipedia to be sure. Some older analog voltmeters had vacuum-tube or FET amps to boost the signal to the moving coil, and probably to increase input impedance. My guess is they specified 'moving coil' to distinguish from the pre-amped type. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


I may have a charging issue with my 3000. 

The fan belt could be tighter and that'll be my first adjustment. 
Thereafter.... 

Well, the BMC book, Section N, makes reference to testing with a "moving 
coil voltmeter". Am I correct in my hope and supposition that this is an old 
fashioned meter with a needle? (Like the one I've had for the last 20 
years). Yes, I do know that the book dates back to the early 60s so digital 
meters weren't around(?), but I don't know what else was around then. 
Certainly, I was around but I thought then that all meters were the same ie 
with a needle and presumably a coil...? A "moving" coil?? 

Any advice would be appreciated. 

Simon 
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Hi John
Mark Ingham in Yea Victoria has a race BN1 (still racing) with a single
Weber his phone No is 03  5797 2707
Keith Taylor
Wamberal

On 1 May 2012 18:12, John Rowe <jarowe@westnet.com.au> wrote:

> Hi all
>
> Does anyone have any experience with a single Weber (45 DCOE) on a 100/4.
>
> There is very little information in my Weber books.
>
> We're looking for a good starting point for jets etc
>
> regards
>
> John Rowe
> Western Australia
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Subject: [Healeys] Donington Classic Race Weekend - Photos of amazing cars
 including Healeys
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Petrolheads,

Yesterday I was at Donington for the classic race meeting. This is one of
the top events in Europe with all the top dollar racers and cars including
Group C monsters. There were about 6 Healeys racing including a couple of
100S's and the Record car that was built by Jeremy Welch.

Re the recent thread on tyres, Avon are very much alive and well and they
had their works support truck in attendence and there is a photo of a
technician hand cutting treads for wet tyres. The red Aston Martin Ulster
number 38  is being driven by a lady and she was in 5th place until the car
developped a misfire. No rollbars or seat belts!

Check out the photos here

http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj530/derekcjob/Donington/

Derek
www.healeysix.net
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From: "Blue Healey" <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: "'Derek Job'" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>, "'Forum'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Donington Classic Race Weekend - Photos of amazing
 cars including Healeys
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Thanks for sharing Derek.
You're keen - it was bloody cold out there!
 _____________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield _______________)
      (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______)
          (_________________________)
         http://tinyurl.com/healeyforum


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Derek Job
Sent: 06 May 2012 11:14
To: Forum
Subject: [Healeys] Donington Classic Race Weekend - Photos of amazing cars
including Healeys

Petrolheads,

Yesterday I was at Donington for the classic race meeting. This is one of
the top events in Europe with all the top dollar racers and cars including
Group C monsters. There were about 6 Healeys racing including a couple of
100S's and the Record car that was built by Jeremy Welch.

Re the recent thread on tyres, Avon are very much alive and well and they
had their works support truck in attendence and there is a photo of a
technician hand cutting treads for wet tyres. The red Aston Martin Ulster
number 38  is being driven by a lady and she was in 5th place until the car
developped a misfire. No rollbars or seat belts!

Check out the photos here

http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj530/derekcjob/Donington/

Derek
www.healeysix.net
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May  6 14:02:36 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Donington Classic Race Weekend - Photos of amazing
 cars including Healeys
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Hi Derek

Super to see closeups of Group C cars, I certainly will not see them at 
the Saskatoon Stock Car track
but with your photos and my collection of 1/32 scale slot cars can 
continue to enjoy this series. Just
another great old British track with an interesting history. Many thanks 
Derek for the opportunity
to enjoy the cars through your photos!
Cheers
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Historian, AHCUSA


Derek Job wrote:
> Petrolheads,
>
> Yesterday I was at Donington for the classic race meeting. This is one of
> the top events in Europe with all the top dollar racers and cars including
> Group C monsters. There were about 6 Healeys racing including a couple of
> 100S's and the Record car that was built by Jeremy Welch.
>
> Re the recent thread on tyres, Avon are very much alive and well and they
> had their works support truck in attendence and there is a photo of a
> technician hand cutting treads for wet tyres. The red Aston Martin Ulster
> number 38  is being driven by a lady and she was in 5th place until the car
> developped a misfire. No rollbars or seat belts!
>
> Check out the photos here
>
> http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj530/derekcjob/Donington/
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May  6 15:42:51 2012
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 16:07:58 -0400
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Subject: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?
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Hi, can anyone tell me what Healey 100 this distributor (#40320) would be
appropriate for?

TIA.
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Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 08:21:02 +1000
To: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?
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100's prior to chassis 230361, and A90 atlantics.
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 07/05/2012, at 6:07 AM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi, can anyone tell me what Healey 100 this distributor (#40320) would be
> appropriate for?
>
> TIA.
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Randy,
Don't see it mentioned in the concours guidelines but according to the Moment
Anderson book,the 40320 was used on the 100 til jan.56 at C/E 230361 when it
was changed for #40495. this is the standard 100 not the M.

very best regards, Richard


On May 6, 2012, at 8:07 PM, Randy Hicks wrote:

> Hi, can anyone tell me what Healey 100 this distributor (#40320) would be
> appropriate for?
>
> TIA.
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FWIW
The Moss catalog shows that the Lucas#40320 distributor to be for  BN1,BN2 
to C.E. 230360.
Marion Brantley
 
 
In a message dated 5/6/2012 5:43:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Healey100M@gmail.com writes:

Hi, can  anyone tell me what Healey 100 this distributor (#40320) would  be
appropriate  for?

TIA.
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Atlantics used a different dizzy altogether.  Not the best unit - the main housing was split between the lower shaft housing and the upper contact housing.  The interference fit between the two was prone to wear, causing housing wobble similar to shaft wobble.  A finicky and unreliable unit on many levels....




Sent by BlackBerry. from PCCW mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Mon, 7 May 2012 08:21:02 
To: Randy Hicks<Healey100M@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?

100's prior to chassis 230361, and A90 atlantics.
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 07/05/2012, at 6:07 AM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi, can anyone tell me what Healey 100 this distributor (#40320) would be
> appropriate for?
>
> TIA.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Randy,

Chris is correct.  To expand a bit further since you own a 100M...

Prior to chassis 230361 -    Part No. 40320A/B  Standard BN1/2 , Vacuum
Advance # 420006
Prior to chassis 230361 -    Part No.40422B     100M/Le Mans , Vacuum
Advance # 420755

Chassis 230362 and later - Part No.40495A Standard BN2 , Vacuum Advance #
54411727
Chassis 230362 and later - Part No.40520A 100M/Le Mans , Vacuum Advance #
54411233

Cheers,

Curt

On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 3:21 PM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>wrote:
100's prior to chassis 230361, and A90 atlantics.
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 07/05/2012, at 6:07 AM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi, can anyone tell me what Healey 100 this distributor (#40320) would be
> appropriate for?
>
> TIA.
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 13:45:52 +1000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?
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http://www.a90atlantic.com/index.php/technical-info-s
Click on distributor.
On A90 Atlantic the DM2 40320 was fitted from May 1951. Clamp had 1 bolt not
2.
Yes, earlier production of A90 Atlantic was different.
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 07/05/2012, at 9:26 AM, healey.nut@gmail.com wrote:

> Atlantics used a different dizzy altogether.  Not the best unit - the main
housing was split between the lower shaft housing and the upper contact
housing.  The interference fit between the two was prone to wear, causing
housing wobble similar to shaft wobble.  A finicky and unreliable unit on many
levels....
>
>
>
>
> Sent by BlackBerryB. from PCCW mobile
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
> Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Mon, 7 May 2012 08:21:02
> To: Randy Hicks<Healey100M@gmail.com>
> Cc: Healey List<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?
>
> 100's prior to chassis 230361, and A90 atlantics.
> Best
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 07/05/2012, at 6:07 AM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi, can anyone tell me what Healey 100 this distributor (#40320) would be
>> appropriate for?
>>
>> TIA.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Donington Classic Race Weekend - Photos of amazing
 cars including Healeys
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Many thanks Derek for sharing these with the groups. Great photos from a major
meet.

Jean Caron


> Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 11:14:17 +0100
> From: derek.c.job@gmail.com
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Donington Classic Race Weekend - Photos of amazing cars
including Healeys
>
> Petrolheads,
>
> Yesterday I was at Donington for the classic race meeting. This is one of
> the top events in Europe with all the top dollar racers and cars including
> Group C monsters. There were about 6 Healeys racing including a couple of
> 100S's and the Record car that was built by Jeremy Welch.
>
> Re the recent thread on tyres, Avon are very much alive and well and they
> had their works support truck in attendence and there is a photo of a
> technician hand cutting treads for wet tyres. The red Aston Martin Ulster
> number 38 is being driven by a lady and she was in 5th place until the car
> developped a misfire. No rollbars or seat belts!
>
> Check out the photos here
>
> http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj530/derekcjob/Donington/
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
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Hmm weird.  My Saloon was made on or around August '51 and it had the old
DVX4 dizzy on it....  but who knows.

On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 11:45 AM, Chris Dimmock
<austin.healey@gmail.com>wrote:

> http://www.a90atlantic.com/index.php/technical-info-s
> Click on distributor.
> On A90 Atlantic the DM2 40320 was fitted from May 1951. Clamp had 1 bolt
> not 2.
> Yes, earlier production of A90 Atlantic was different.
> Best
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 07/05/2012, at 9:26 AM, healey.nut@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > Atlantics used a different dizzy altogether.  Not the best unit - the
> main housing was split between the lower shaft housing and the upper
> contact housing.  The interference fit between the two was prone to wear,
> causing housing wobble similar to shaft wobble.  A finicky and unreliable
> unit on many levels....
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent by BlackBerry. from PCCW mobile
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
> > Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Mon, 7 May 2012 08:21:02
> > To: Randy Hicks<Healey100M@gmail.com>
> > Cc: Healey List<healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?
> >
> > 100's prior to chassis 230361, and A90 atlantics.
> > Best
> > Chris
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > On 07/05/2012, at 6:07 AM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Hi, can anyone tell me what Healey 100 this distributor (#40320) would
> be
> >> appropriate for?
> >>
> >> TIA.
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
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Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 01:20:24 +1000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?
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http://www.a90atlantic.com/index.php/technical-info-s
Click on distributor.
On A90 Atlantic the DM2 40320 was fitted from May 1951. Clamp had 1 bolt not
2.
Yes, earlier production of A90 Atlantic was different.
Best
Chris
Sent from my iPhone

On 07/05/2012, at 5:57 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hmm weird.  My Saloon was made on or around August '51 and it had the old
DVX4 dizzy on it....  but who knows.
>
> On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 11:45 AM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
wrote:
> http://www.a90atlantic.com/index.php/technical-info-s
> Click on distributor.
> On A90 Atlantic the DM2 40320 was fitted from May 1951. Clamp had 1 bolt not
2.
> Yes, earlier production of A90 Atlantic was different.
> Best
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 07/05/2012, at 9:26 AM, healey.nut@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > Atlantics used a different dizzy altogether.  Not the best unit - the main
housing was split between the lower shaft housing and the upper contact
housing.  The interference fit between the two was prone to wear, causing
housing wobble similar to shaft wobble.  A finicky and unreliable unit on many
levels....
> > Sent by BlackBerryB. from PCCW mobile
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
> > Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Mon, 7 May 2012 08:21:02
> > To: Randy Hicks<Healey100M@gmail.com>
> > Cc: Healey List<healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?
> >
> > 100's prior to chassis 230361, and A90 atlantics.
> > Best
> > Chris
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Subject: [Healeys] Tires, batteries and mufflers
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Just checking, I realize the chances are SLIM!!
I'm gathering parts for the restoration of my early 100.
I would like to get original 590 x 15 Roadspeed tires, these could be the
currently available RS5 type. Does anyone out there have a set they no
longer want?
I'm also looking for a pair of 17L "Lucas" branded batteries. Doesn't
matter if they are sulphated I'm going to convert them to lithium ion
internally.
Also looking for help with an original BURGESS branded muffler. If I can
get accurate dimensions I can make one but better yet does anyone have one?

Thanks,
Michael Salter

I have BJ8 water pump kits :-)
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Michael,

I have an NOS Burgess silencer for my BN1 that I will take photos of and
send dimensions if you can't find and original.

If you need one, I still have several NOS 100 splash aprons that are still
in the dark chocolate brown primer.  I'm sending one off today to
Fourintune to be used on Randy Hicks' 100M.

Let me know about your battery project as I'm about to order two of the
Lucas 17F batteries from Antique Battery Company.

BTW how bad where your aluminum door trim pieces?  I was just looking at a
fellow list members trim from his '53 100 and it appears that we should be
able to clean them up, and while they won't look new they are in remarkably
good condition for almost 60 years old.

Cheers,

Curt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)

On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 8:40 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> Just checking, I realize the chances are SLIM!!
> I'm gathering parts for the restoration of my early 100.
> I would like to get original 590 x 15 Roadspeed tires, these could be the
> currently available RS5 type. Does anyone out there have a set they no
> longer want?
> I'm also looking for a pair of 17L "Lucas" branded batteries. Doesn't
> matter if they are sulphated I'm going to convert them to lithium ion
> internally.
> Also looking for help with an original BURGESS branded muffler. If I can
> get accurate dimensions I can make one but better yet does anyone have one?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael Salter
>
> I have BJ8 water pump kits :-)
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?
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Chris, was that the early type were the vacuum advance unit was 
completely external, and used to rotate the entire body of the 
distributor to achieve advance? If so they were a real shocker once 
everything started to wear. There was one on an old Austin A70 motor I 
had to use in my Healey years ago while I was rebuilding the Healey 
engine  ( back in the days the Healey was my only transport ). The 
distributor used to wobble constantly!
Cheers
Larry

On 8/05/2012 1:20 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
> http://www.a90atlantic.com/index.php/technical-info-s
> Click on distributor.
> On A90 Atlantic the DM2 40320 was fitted from May 1951. Clamp had 1 bolt not
> 2.
> Yes, earlier production of A90 Atlantic was different.
> Best
> Chris
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 07/05/2012, at 5:57 PM, Alan Seigrist<healey.nut@gmail.com>  wrote:
>
>> Hmm weird.  My Saloon was made on or around August '51 and it had the old
> DVX4 dizzy on it....  but who knows.
>> On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 11:45 AM, Chris Dimmock<austin.healey@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>> http://www.a90atlantic.com/index.php/technical-info-s
>> Click on distributor.
>> On A90 Atlantic the DM2 40320 was fitted from May 1951. Clamp had 1 bolt not
> 2.
>> Yes, earlier production of A90 Atlantic was different.
>> Best
>> Chris
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On 07/05/2012, at 9:26 AM, healey.nut@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Atlantics used a different dizzy altogether.  Not the best unit - the main
> housing was split between the lower shaft housing and the upper contact
> housing.  The interference fit between the two was prone to wear, causing
> housing wobble similar to shaft wobble.  A finicky and unreliable unit on many
> levels....
>>> Sent by BlackBerryB. from PCCW mobile
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Chris Dimmock<austin.healey@gmail.com>
>>> Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Mon, 7 May 2012 08:21:02
>>> To: Randy Hicks<Healey100M@gmail.com>
>>> Cc: Healey List<healeys@autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?
>>>
>>> 100's prior to chassis 230361, and A90 atlantics.
>>> Best
>>> Chris
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires, batteries and mufflers
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> Moss has a repro:
> http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/459-380.pdf
> Or
> http://tinyurl.com/75sqm59
>
> Robert
> Sent from my device that doesn't pay me to advertise for them.
>
> On 2012-05-07, at 11:40 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Just checking, I realize the chances are SLIM!!
>> I'm gathering parts for the restoration of my early 100.
>> I would like to get original 590 x 15 Roadspeed tires, these could be the
>> currently available RS5 type. Does anyone out there have a set they no
>> longer want?
>> I'm also looking for a pair of 17L "Lucas" branded batteries. Doesn't
>> matter if they are sulphated I'm going to convert them to lithium ion
>> internally.
>> Also looking for help with an original BURGESS branded muffler. If I can
>> get accurate dimensions I can make one but better yet does anyone have
one?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Michael Salter
>>
>> I have BJ8 water pump kits :-)
>> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 16:33:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?
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Good Afternoon Randy; 
 
I think the attached files might be of some help to you.  The first is
a distributor list for Austin Healeys whereas the second file is a
comprehensive list of Lucas distributors done by Marcel Chichak.  The third is
based on a Lucas catalogue chapter dealing with distributors.  These files can
also be found at the Austin Healey Club of Southern Ontario website:
 http://www.ahcso.com  in the Technical Section.  See
http://tinyurl.com/7ywst5z   or 
http://www.ahcso.com/detail.aspx?menu=59&app=299&cat1=764&tp=2&lk=no&title=Te
chnical+Articles
The three files are at the bottom of the list. 
 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
--- On Sun, 5/6/12, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote: << Hi, can
anyone tell me what Healey 100 this distributor (#40320) would be appropriate
for? >>

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Distributor Data Base w diagrams.pdf]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Distributor Database-Lucas.pdf]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Distributor Lucas 400 Catalogue.pdf]
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From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?
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Larry -

No, that early type on the 100 is still a one piece housing and shaft
housing unit (DM2), not a two piece like the DVX4.   I shelved my DVX4
and put on a Pertonix dizzy on the A90.  Jeff at Advanced Distributors
was actually sort of bummed out I didn't give him my DVX4 to rebuild,
I sort of understood how he felt....

Best.

Alan


> On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 4:25 AM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
>>
>> Chris, was that the early type were the vacuum advance unit was completely
external, and used to rotate the entire body of the distributor to achieve
advance? If so they were a real shocker once everything started to wear. There
was one on an old Austin A70 motor I had to use in my Healey years ago while I
was rebuilding the Healey engine  ( back in the days the Healey was my only
transport ). The distributor used to wobble constantly!
>> Cheers
>> Larry
>>
>>
>> On 8/05/2012 1:20 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
>>>
>>> http://www.a90atlantic.com/index.php/technical-info-s
>>> Click on distributor.
>>> On A90 Atlantic the DM2 40320 was fitted from May 1951. Clamp had 1 bolt
not
>>> 2.
>>> Yes, earlier production of A90 Atlantic was different.
>>> Best
>>> Chris
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On 07/05/2012, at 5:57 PM, Alan Seigrist<healey.nut@gmail.com>  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hmm weird.  My Saloon was made on or around August '51 and it had the
old
>>>
>>> DVX4 dizzy on it....  but who knows.
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 11:45 AM, Chris Dimmock<austin.healey@gmail.com>
>>>
>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> http://www.a90atlantic.com/index.php/technical-info-s
>>>> Click on distributor.
>>>> On A90 Atlantic the DM2 40320 was fitted from May 1951. Clamp had 1 bolt
not
>>>
>>> 2.
>>>>
>>>> Yes, earlier production of A90 Atlantic was different.
>>>> Best
>>>> Chris
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 15:12:20 +1000
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] #40320 Distributor ?
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Hi Alan,
Larry said he had an A70 distributor in an A70 engine he had temporarily
fitted in his 100 many years ago.
The A70 distributor was very, very agricultural - probably more agricultural
than the DVX4!!!!
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 08/05/2012, at 12:14 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> Larry -
>
> No, that early type on the 100 is still a one piece housing and shaft
> housing unit (DM2), not a two piece like the DVX4.   I shelved my DVX4
> and put on a Pertonix dizzy on the A90.  Jeff at Advanced Distributors
> was actually sort of bummed out I didn't give him my DVX4 to rebuild,
> I sort of understood how he felt....
>
> Best.
>
> Alan
>
>
>> On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 4:25 AM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
>>>
>>> Chris, was that the early type were the vacuum advance unit was
completely
> external, and used to rotate the entire body of the distributor to achieve
> advance? If so they were a real shocker once everything started to wear.
There
> was one on an old Austin A70 motor I had to use in my Healey years ago while
I
> was rebuilding the Healey engine  ( back in the days the Healey was my only
> transport ). The distributor used to wobble constantly!
>>> Cheers
>>> Larry
>>>
>>>
>>> On 8/05/2012 1:20 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
>>>>
>>>> http://www.a90atlantic.com/index.php/technical-info-s
>>>> Click on distributor.
>>>> On A90 Atlantic the DM2 40320 was fitted from May 1951. Clamp had 1 bolt
> not
>>>> 2.
>>>> Yes, earlier production of A90 Atlantic was different.
>>>> Best
>>>> Chris
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Thread-Topic: Speedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
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Subject: [Healeys] Speedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
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Hi all,

I found the old discussion thread below while surfing for info on the
angle drive for a BJ8.

I have a new one on order since mine failed last week.



Does anyone know the dimension of the washer mentioned, thickness of
course most important?

I want to know if I don't receive one with my order.



Thanks, Peter Ehn



PS.

My drive "crashed" last week, and I think I actually reset the trip
meter while driving as someone mentioned in the old thread. Don't know
if this was the cause, but speedo and cable are OK and easy to spin by
hand.





Peter Ehn
AH 3000 MKIII, 1967. BJ8 42208.
Bromma/Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: +46 708 33 72 97
E-mail: peter.ehn@frontwalker.se <mailto:peter.ehn@frontwalker.se>













To:

"George Haywood" <haywoodone@hotmail.com>

Subject:

Re: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8

From:

"R. Price Lindsay" <price@advocateadvisors.com>

Date:

Sun, 26 Jul 2009 20:51:12 -0500

Thanks George. I used the washer as recomended.  This is a puzzle.

Price

On Jul 26, 2009, at 8:47 PM, "George Haywood" <haywoodone@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>
> Price,
>
> There is suppose to be a washer inserted at the angle drive/tranny
> fitting on Austin Healeys.  Evidently the short drive is a little
> too long and is said to create too much pressure on the angle drive
> causing premature failure.  You would think that manufacturers of
> these products would just produce the correct part for our
> application.  The washer came with my new angle drive along with a
> BMC product warning regarding the use of the washer.  If you did use
> the washer as directed then I don't have any other explanation for
> the rapid failure of you drive.  Some of the new speedo cables are
> too long also and there is a specific length to cut the cable, which
> I can't find at the moment.
>
> George Haywood
> '65 bj8
>
>
>> From: price@advocateadvisors.com
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 19:21:44 -0500
>> Subject: [Healeys] Spedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
>>
>> At Conclave my speedo stops working. There was a mechanic there that
>> told me the speedo was frozen, causing the system to fail. I pulled
>> the speedo and had it repaired/rebuilt. I also removed the angle
>> drive
>> and the male part into the od was broken.
>>
>> Ordered a new angle drive and cable. When the repaired speedo was
>> returned I installed it along with a new angle drive. The cable was
>> not damaged so I did not install the new one. Put the car back
>> together and 32 miles later the speedo goes flat.
>>
>> I disconnected the cable and it did not turn when I drove. I pulled
>> the cable from it's case and the od end was fine. I put a drill on
>> the
>> cable while connected to the speedo and ran it up to 50 mph. When I
>> tried to turn the cable by hand it was difficult but it did turn. I
>> suspect the angle drive is again broken.
>>
>> OK, what's the cause? Should the cable in the speedo turn easily?
>> Could the speedo have failed? Could the angle drive have failed/been
>> faulty?
>>
>> Price Lindsay
>> 67 BJ8
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Can't help on dimensions, but here's some info: 

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/021-511.pdf 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Hi all, 

I found the old discussion thread below while surfing for info on the 
angle drive for a BJ8. 

I have a new one on order since mine failed last week. 



Does anyone know the dimension of the washer mentioned, thickness of 
course most important? 

I want to know if I don't receive one with my order. 



Thanks, Peter Ehn 



PS. 

My drive "crashed" last week, and I think I actually reset the trip 
meter while driving as someone mentioned in the old thread. Don't know 
if this was the cause, but speedo and cable are OK and easy to spin by 
hand. 





Peter Ehn 
AH 3000 MKIII, 1967. BJ8 42208. 
Bromma/Stockholm, Sweden 
Phone: +46 708 33 72 97 
E-mail: peter.ehn@frontwalker.se <mailto:peter.ehn@frontwalker.se> 
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From: "Peter Ehn" <peter.ehn@frontwalker.se>
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Thanks Bob for your answer. I've read this, but don't have time to order from Moss, living on the other side of the "pond".  :-)

Peter Ehn.
+46 708 33 72 97
peter.ehn@frontwalker.se

(skickat frC%n min iPhone)

8 maj 2012 kl. 19:27 skrev "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>:

> Can't help on dimensions, but here's some info:
> 
> http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/021-511.pdf
> 
> Bob
> 
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I found the old discussion thread below while surfing for info on the
> angle drive for a BJ8.
> 
> I have a new one on order since mine failed last week.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the dimension of the washer mentioned, thickness of
> course most important?
> 
> I want to know if I don't receive one with my order.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Peter Ehn
> 
> 
> 
> PS.
> 
> My drive "crashed" last week, and I think I actually reset the trip
> meter while driving as someone mentioned in the old thread. Don't know
> if this was the cause, but speedo and cable are OK and easy to spin by
> hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Peter Ehn
> AH 3000 MKIII, 1967. BJ8 42208.
> Bromma/Stockholm, Sweden
> Phone: +46 708 33 72 97
> E-mail: peter.ehn@frontwalker.se <mailto:peter.ehn@frontwalker.se>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
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Peter,

Steel washer, .063 to .064

keep in mind that the angle drive usually breaks due to a frozen 
speedo bearing.

John

At 07:31 PM 5/8/2012 +0200, Peter Ehn wrote:
>Thanks Bob for your answer. I've read this, but don't have time to 
>order from Moss, living on the other side of the "pond".  :-)
>
>Peter Ehn.
>+46 708 33 72 97
>peter.ehn@frontwalker.se
>
>(skickat frC%n min iPhone)
>
>8 maj 2012 kl. 19:27 skrev "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>:
>
> > Can't help on dimensions, but here's some info:
> >
> > http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/021-511.pdf
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > --------------------------------
> > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I found the old discussion thread below while surfing for info on the
> > angle drive for a BJ8.
> >
> > I have a new one on order since mine failed last week.
> >
> >
> >
> > Does anyone know the dimension of the washer mentioned, thickness of
> > course most important?
> >
> > I want to know if I don't receive one with my order.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks, Peter Ehn
> >
> >
> >
> > PS.
> >
> > My drive "crashed" last week, and I think I actually reset the trip
> > meter while driving as someone mentioned in the old thread. Don't know
> > if this was the cause, but speedo and cable are OK and easy to spin by
> > hand.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Peter Ehn
> > AH 3000 MKIII, 1967. BJ8 42208.
> > Bromma/Stockholm, Sweden
> > Phone: +46 708 33 72 97
> > E-mail: peter.ehn@frontwalker.se <mailto:peter.ehn@frontwalker.se>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  8 17:53:11 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
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Peter
Are there any remains of your old unit? Could be worth examining to see 
if the cause of the failure can be discovered.

Per


> PS.
>
> My drive "crashed" last week, and I think I actually reset the trip
> meter while driving as someone mentioned in the old thread. Don't know
> if this was the cause, but speedo and cable are OK and easy to spin by
> hand.
>
> Peter Ehn
> AH 3000 MKIII, 1967. BJ8 42208.
> Bromma/Stockholm, Sweden
> Phone: +46 708 33 72 97
> E-mail: peter.ehn@frontwalker.se<mailto:peter.ehn@frontwalker.se>
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From: healey.nut@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8
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The main thing about this washer is it needs to be made out of copper.  It's a standard thickness (not thin).  Take your speedo drive to the hardware store and select the washer that best fits.  However, ordering the correct washer would be advisable... This washer acts as a sort of thrust bearing.  Try ahead 4 healeys, they'll have it.

Alan

Sent by BlackBerry. from PCCW mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: "Peter Ehn" <peter.ehn@frontwalker.se>
Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Tue, 8 May 2012 19:31:08 
To: Bob Spidell<bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8

Thanks Bob for your answer. I've read this, but don't have time to order from Moss, living on the other side of the "pond".  :-)

Peter Ehn.
+46 708 33 72 97
peter.ehn@frontwalker.se

(skickat frC%n min iPhone)

8 maj 2012 kl. 19:27 skrev "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>:

> Can't help on dimensions, but here's some info:
> 
> http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/021-511.pdf
> 
> Bob
> 
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I found the old discussion thread below while surfing for info on the
> angle drive for a BJ8.
> 
> I have a new one on order since mine failed last week.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the dimension of the washer mentioned, thickness of
> course most important?
> 
> I want to know if I don't receive one with my order.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Peter Ehn
> 
> 
> 
> PS.
> 
> My drive "crashed" last week, and I think I actually reset the trip
> meter while driving as someone mentioned in the old thread. Don't know
> if this was the cause, but speedo and cable are OK and easy to spin by
> hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Peter Ehn
> AH 3000 MKIII, 1967. BJ8 42208.
> Bromma/Stockholm, Sweden
> Phone: +46 708 33 72 97
> E-mail: peter.ehn@frontwalker.se <mailto:peter.ehn@frontwalker.se>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  8 20:29:28 2012
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Anyone know how many miles annually they allow when insured as an occasionally
driven?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  8 21:47:34 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] For those really interested in BN1 DETAIL!!
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I have just adder 3 posts to my blog regarding the restoration of my
earlyBN1.
These may be of interest to some otherwise please ignore.

http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=812  About the car
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=838   Paint history
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=865   Unusual front fenders

-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] For those really interested in BN1 DETAIL!!
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re: "Anyone got any idea of the tooling or technique used to make these cutouts?"

My guess would be a jig saw or small body saw like this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-metal-saw-91753.html


Dumb question:  do some BN1s and 2s have these cutout vents?  Our BN2's fenders only have the 3 holes for the chrome 
spears' studs.

If you get a chance, I could use closeups of how the shroud is attached to the cowl near the fascia.  I know there are 
pop rivets and sheetmetal screws as well as the usual 10-32 machine screws, but we got into a frenzy disassembling our 
car and didn't take enough pictures.


Bob


On 5/8/2012 7:13 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> I have just adder 3 posts to my blog regarding the restoration of my
> earlyBN1.
> These may be of interest to some otherwise please ignore.
>
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=812  About the car
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=838   Paint history
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=865   Unusual front fenders
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hagerty ins
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IIRC it is 2500 miles.
however in my conversions with the agents they "say" as long as it involves
events and not daily driving it is not an issue.

this year i will probably drive my XK 150 FHC about 4,000 miles on rallies
and jag trips.

they also covered my E type (and 50 other cars) and repainted it when it
got sand blasted on the Copperstate 1000 two year sago.
ron

On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 5:37 PM, EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com> wrote:

> Anyone know how many miles annually they allow when insured as an
> occasionally
> driven?
> _______________________________________________
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Hi Per, I have the remains. Will bring them to the meeting on Saturday.
/Peter

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: Per Schoerner [mailto:healeyguy@bredband.net]
Skickat: den 8 maj 2012 23:47
Till: healeys@autox.team.net
Kopia: Peter Ehn
Dmne: Re: [Healeys] Speedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8

Peter
Are there any remains of your old unit? Could be worth examining to see if the
cause of the failure can be discovered.

Per


> PS.
>
> My drive "crashed" last week, and I think I actually reset the trip
> meter while driving as someone mentioned in the old thread. Don't know
> if this was the cause, but speedo and cable are OK and easy to spin by
> hand.
>
> Peter Ehn
> AH 3000 MKIII, 1967. BJ8 42208.
> Bromma/Stockholm, Sweden
> Phone: +46 708 33 72 97
> E-mail: peter.ehn@frontwalker.se<mailto:peter.ehn@frontwalker.se>
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Thanks John, now I know.
/Peter

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: john spaur [mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net]
Skickat: den 8 maj 2012 22:41
Till: Peter Ehn
Kopia: healeys@autox.team.net
Dmne: Re: [Healeys] Speedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8

Peter,

Steel washer, .063 to .064

keep in mind that the angle drive usually breaks due to a frozen speedo
bearing.

John

At 07:31 PM 5/8/2012 +0200, Peter Ehn wrote:
>Thanks Bob for your answer. I've read this, but don't have time to
>order from Moss, living on the other side of the "pond".  :-)
>
>Peter Ehn.
>+46 708 33 72 97
>peter.ehn@frontwalker.se
>
>(skickat frC%n min iPhone)
>
>8 maj 2012 kl. 19:27 skrev "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>:
>
> > Can't help on dimensions, but here's some info:
> >
> > http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/021-511.pdf
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > --------------------------------
> > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I found the old discussion thread below while surfing for info on
> > the angle drive for a BJ8.
> >
> > I have a new one on order since mine failed last week.
> >
> >
> >
> > Does anyone know the dimension of the washer mentioned, thickness of
> > course most important?
> >
> > I want to know if I don't receive one with my order.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks, Peter Ehn
> >
> >
> >
> > PS.
> >
> > My drive "crashed" last week, and I think I actually reset the trip
> > meter while driving as someone mentioned in the old thread. Don't
> > know if this was the cause, but speedo and cable are OK and easy to
> > spin by hand.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Peter Ehn
> > AH 3000 MKIII, 1967. BJ8 42208.
> > Bromma/Stockholm, Sweden
> > Phone: +46 708 33 72 97
> > E-mail: peter.ehn@frontwalker.se <mailto:peter.ehn@frontwalker.se>
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Thanks Alan.
Copper or steel according to John Spauer?
Does it matter?

/Peter

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: healey.nut@gmail.com [mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com]
Skickat: den 9 maj 2012 00:27
Till: Peter Ehn; healeys-bounces@autox.team.net; Bob Spidell
Kopia: healeys@autox.team.net
Dmne: Re: [Healeys] Speedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8

The main thing about this washer is it needs to be made out of copper.  It's a
standard thickness (not thin).  Take your speedo drive to the hardware store
and select the washer that best fits.  However, ordering the correct washer
would be advisable... This washer acts as a sort of thrust bearing.  Try ahead
4 healeys, they'll have it.

Alan

Sent by BlackBerry. from PCCW mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: "Peter Ehn" <peter.ehn@frontwalker.se>
Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Tue, 8 May 2012 19:31:08
To: Bob Spidell<bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Speedo/Cable/Angle Drive - BJ8

Thanks Bob for your answer. I've read this, but don't have time to order from
Moss, living on the other side of the "pond".  :-)

Peter Ehn.
+46 708 33 72 97
peter.ehn@frontwalker.se

(skickat frC%n min iPhone)

8 maj 2012 kl. 19:27 skrev "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>:

> Can't help on dimensions, but here's some info:
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/021-511.pdf
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I found the old discussion thread below while surfing for info on the
> angle drive for a BJ8.
>
> I have a new one on order since mine failed last week.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know the dimension of the washer mentioned, thickness of
> course most important?
>
> I want to know if I don't receive one with my order.
>
>
>
> Thanks, Peter Ehn
>
>
>
> PS.
>
> My drive "crashed" last week, and I think I actually reset the trip
> meter while driving as someone mentioned in the old thread. Don't know
> if this was the cause, but speedo and cable are OK and easy to spin by
> hand.
>
>
>
>
>
> Peter Ehn
> AH 3000 MKIII, 1967. BJ8 42208.
> Bromma/Stockholm, Sweden
> Phone: +46 708 33 72 97
> E-mail: peter.ehn@frontwalker.se <mailto:peter.ehn@frontwalker.se>
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hagerty ins
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I got a quote from Hagerty here in the UK. They were 50% more expensive and
offered less annual miles than the company I'm now with

Derek.

On Wed, May 9, 2012 at 5:12 AM, F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>wrote:

> IIRC it is 2500 miles.
> however in my conversions with the agents they "say" as long as it involves
> events and not daily driving it is not an issue.
>
> this year i will probably drive my XK 150 FHC about 4,000 miles on rallies
> and jag trips.
>
> they also covered my E type (and 50 other cars) and repainted it when it
> got sand blasted on the Copperstate 1000 two year sago.
> ron
>
> On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 5:37 PM, EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com> wrote:
>
> > Anyone know how many miles annually they allow when insured as an
> > occasionally
> > driven?
> > _______________________________________________
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From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
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Edward,

According to Classic Car Insurance Review 
http://www.classiccarinsurances.com/articles/how-to/get-the-best-classic-car-
insurance-quote.html  Hagerty doesn't place a mileage restriction. In the
second paragraph of their review you will find this statement "Hagerty
insurance (http://www.hagerty.com) put no limits on mileage, but restrict you
from driving your classic car as basic transportation (no 
driving it to work
daily, for example)."

I've had their insurance for over 15 years during which
time I have had two incidents which required repairs.  Both times they
informed me to get a quote from the repair shop of my choice and send them the
bill.  They are also less expensive then other Classic Car Insurance Co. that
I have received quotes from.

Ron Mitchell
BN6
BN7 
________________________________
 From: EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com>
To:
healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 8, 2012 8:37 PM
Subject: [Healeys]
Hagerty ins
 
Anyone know how many miles annually they allow when insured as
an occasionally
driven?
Suggested annual donation 
$12.75
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From: Alan Bromfield <bluehealey@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] For those really interested in BN1 DETAIL!!
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Hi Michael.
Thanks for sparking up the blog again. I really enjoy this engineering
archeology and we learn so much from the careful (forensic?)
dis-assembly.

My guess regarding the strange cuts is that they were made with an
'Abrafile'. Tensioning one in a frame deep enough to pass the wheel
arch would be interesting though.  More to the point however would be
why the cuts were made in the first place?

I'll be interested in the views from assembled wisdom on this list.

More please Mike.


On 09/05/2012, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have just adder 3 posts to my blog regarding the restoration of my
> earlyBN1.
> These may be of interest to some otherwise please ignore.
>
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=812  About the car
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=838   Paint history
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=865   Unusual front fenders
>
> --
> Michael Salter
>
-- 
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
                (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _)
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2012 06:31:50 -0700
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we bid ours every year.
price is always competitive and the service was amazing when I had two claims.
ron

Sent from my iPhone

On May 9, 2012, at 12:47 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> I got a quote from Hagerty here in the UK. They were 50% more expensive and
offered less annual miles than the company I'm now with
>
> Derek.
>
> On Wed, May 9, 2012 at 5:12 AM, F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
wrote:
> IIRC it is 2500 miles.
> however in my conversions with the agents they "say" as long as it involves
> events and not daily driving it is not an issue.
>
> this year i will probably drive my XK 150 FHC about 4,000 miles on rallies
> and jag trips.
>
> they also covered my E type (and 50 other cars) and repainted it when it
> got sand blasted on the Copperstate 1000 two year sago.
> ron
>
> On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 5:37 PM, EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com> wrote:
>
> > Anyone know how many miles annually they allow when insured as an
> > occasionally
> > driven?
> > _______________________________________________
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Hi Alan, thanks for taking the time to read my stuff...
Regarding the type of tool used ... I didn't include one of the pictures of
the end of one of the cuts. (I'll post it on the blog when I get a better
focused version). I have attached it for you.
The end of the cut is square and I think that a small cut out saw may have
been used as Bob suggested.
http://www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-metal-saw-91753.html
I am pretty sure an Abrafile blade is round but without this picture it
would have been a good idea.
Can you imagine the time it took to cut each one out that way?
Furthermore they must have used a very small blade considering the size of
the start hole!!
Much more to follow.


-- Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*

On Wed, May 9, 2012 at 9:20 AM, Alan Bromfield <bluehealey@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Michael.
> Thanks for sparking up the blog again. I really enjoy this engineering
> archeology and we learn so much from the careful (forensic?)
> dis-assembly.
>
> My guess regarding the strange cuts is that they were made with an
> 'Abrafile'. Tensioning one in a frame deep enough to pass the wheel
> arch would be interesting though.  More to the point however would be
> why the cuts were made in the first place?
>
> I'll be interested in the views from assembled wisdom on this list.
>
> More please Mike.
>
>
> On 09/05/2012, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
> > I have just adder 3 posts to my blog regarding the restoration of my
> > earlyBN1.
> > These may be of interest to some otherwise please ignore.
> >
> > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=812  About the car
> > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=838   Paint history
> > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=865   Unusual front fenders
> >
> > --
> > Michael Salter
> >
> --
>  _________________________________________
> (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
>        (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
>                (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _)

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of F fender cut out detail 4 small.jpg]
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Folks, If anyone is looking for a great car, take a look at this one. Not my 
car, but know it well. It's a well maintained car based in the Boston area.

http://boston.ebayclassifieds.com/classic-cars/boxford/1967-austin-healey-3000-bj8/?ad=16188517 
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Bob,

Typically 100  fenders with just the three holes for the chrome spears were
period factory replacements.

Curt

On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 9:04 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "Anyone got any idea of the tooling or technique used to make these
> cutouts?"
>
> My guess would be a jig saw or small body saw like this one:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/**high-speed-metal-saw-91753.**html<http://www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-metal-saw-91753.html>
>
>
> Dumb question:  do some BN1s and 2s have these cutout vents?  Our BN2's
> fenders only have the 3 holes for the chrome spears' studs.
>
> If you get a chance, I could use closeups of how the shroud is attached to
> the cowl near the fascia.  I know there are pop rivets and sheetmetal
> screws as well as the usual 10-32 machine screws, but we got into a frenzy
> disassembling our car and didn't take enough pictures.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 5/8/2012 7:13 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
>> I have just adder 3 posts to my blog regarding the restoration of my
>> earlyBN1.
>> These may be of interest to some otherwise please ignore.
>>
>> http://www.netbug.net/**blogmichael/?p=812<http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=812> About the car
>> http://www.netbug.net/**blogmichael/?p=838<http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=838>  Paint history
>> http://www.netbug.net/**blogmichael/?p=865<http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=865>  Unusual front fenders
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
>
> ______________________________**_________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hagerty ins
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Do they do US business, Derek ? ? ?

<< On 5/9/2012 2:47 AM, Derek Job wrote:

         They were 50% more expensive and offered less annual miles than the company I'm now with   >>

I think most of us would be interested in saving a few bucks<G>  ? ! ?

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
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This year I upped my mileage from 2500 to 5000 and the additional charge was less than $20 as I recall.
They will quote you the cost.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6
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wow this is crazy you should look into this http://www.sixnews15.net/biz/?employment=2247797
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hagerty ins
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I'm with Hagerty and they never offered me or told me how many miles I could drive a year----I  asked once and they said don't worry about it--drive and enjoy.

tom
---- F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
we bid ours every year.
price is always competitive and the service was amazing when I had two claims.
ron

Sent from my iPhone

On May 9, 2012, at 12:47 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> I got a quote from Hagerty here in the UK. They were 50% more expensive and
offered less annual miles than the company I'm now with
>
> Derek.
>
> On Wed, May 9, 2012 at 5:12 AM, F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
wrote:
> IIRC it is 2500 miles.
> however in my conversions with the agents they "say" as long as it involves
> events and not daily driving it is not an issue.
>
> this year i will probably drive my XK 150 FHC about 4,000 miles on rallies
> and jag trips.
>
> they also covered my E type (and 50 other cars) and repainted it when it
> got sand blasted on the Copperstate 1000 two year sago.
> ron
>
> On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 5:37 PM, EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com> wrote:
>
> > Anyone know how many miles annually they allow when insured as an
> > occasionally
> > driven?
> > _______________________________________________
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At 09:01 AM 5/9/2012 -0700, john spaur wrote:
>Mine is steel but I don't know if it is original. Perhaps copper 
>should be used because it might provide an oil seal.
>
>John
>
>At 09:10 AM 5/9/2012 +0200, Peter Ehn wrote:
>>Thanks Alan.
>>Copper or steel according to John Spauer?
>>Does it matter?
>>
>>/Peter
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hagerty ins
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I have had coverage with Hagerty since I got my 100 in 1999.  I have driven
from my home in Maryland to several Conclaves--Tahoe, Grand Rapids MN, NC
and Texas (via Bismark ND) in all cases with prior notice to Hagerty and
not a peep from them about it.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, May 9, 2012 at 9:06 AM, Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Edward,
>
> According to Classic Car Insurance Review
>
> http://www.classiccarinsurances.com/articles/how-to/get-the-best-classic-car-
> insurance-quote.html  Hagerty doesn't place a mileage restriction. In the
> second paragraph of their review you will find this statement "Hagerty
> insurance (http://www.hagerty.com) put no limits on mileage, but restrict
> you
> from driving your classic car as basic transportation (no
> driving it to work
> daily, for example)."
>
> I've had their insurance for over 15 years during which
> time I have had two incidents which required repairs.  Both times they
> informed me to get a quote from the repair shop of my choice and send them
> the
> bill.  They are also less expensive then other Classic Car Insurance Co.
> that
> I have received quotes from.
>
> Ron Mitchell
> BN6
> BN7
> ________________________________
>  From: EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com>
> To:
> healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 8, 2012 8:37 PM
> Subject: [Healeys]
> Hagerty ins
>
> Anyone know how many miles annually they allow when insured as
> an occasionally
> driven?
> Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
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Subject: [Healeys] for those really interested in BN1 DETAIL
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Hi Bob,
   
         I am pretty sure the slots  were cut using a monodex cutter.
 
                                                                            
  Regards 
                                                                     
                                                                            
           Barrie from England
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Great.  Another hacked account to be put on the moderate list.

mjb.
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Ditto-


---- Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
I have had coverage with Hagerty since I got my 100 in 1999.  I have driven
from my home in Maryland to several Conclaves--Tahoe, Grand Rapids MN, NC
and Texas (via Bismark ND) in all cases with prior notice to Hagerty and
not a peep from them about it.
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Subject: [Healeys] Tire help
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I tried a look in the archives, but it was pretty daunting.
My BN 4 came with 3 old, but almost no miles P 3s, and a new Riken. Tire size
185/70 15. Anyhow the 3 Pirellis are toast. So I need 3 or 4 new tires. Not
having much luck looking on the web. Suggestions please.

Thanks, Alan
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tire help
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Alan--

Opinions will vary on which tire is best but I think everyone will tell you
to have the same time on all four corners.  If you must keep it, make the
Riken a spare but no more.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, May 9, 2012 at 5:54 PM, Alan Grossman <agrossman@pacific.net> wrote:

> I tried a look in the archives, but it was pretty daunting.
> My BN 4 came with 3 old, but almost no miles P 3s, and a new Riken. Tire
> size
> 185/70 15. Anyhow the 3 Pirellis are toast. So I need 3 or 4 new tires. Not
> having much luck looking on the web. Suggestions please.
>
> Thanks, Alan
> _______________________________________________
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From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tire help
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Alan -

Longstone has a few options for you:

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/page/austin-healey

coker has options too;

http://www.cokertire.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=185/70R15
http://www.cokertire.com/165hr15-vredestein-sprint-blackwall-tire.html

note that if you have the original rims on your car (60 spoke, 4.5
inch rim width) then the 165s are a good option and MUCH cheaper.

Alan

On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 7:28 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Alan--
>
> Opinions will vary on which tire is best but I think everyone will tell you
> to have the same time on all four corners.  If you must keep it, make the
> Riken a spare but no more.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Wed, May 9, 2012 at 5:54 PM, Alan Grossman <agrossman@pacific.net>
wrote:
>
>> I tried a look in the archives, but it was pretty daunting.
>> My BN 4 came with 3 old, but almost no miles P 3s, and a new Riken. Tire
>> size
>> 185/70 15. Anyhow the 3 Pirellis are toast. So I need 3 or 4 new tires.
Not
>> having much luck looking on the web. Suggestions please.
>>
>> Thanks, Alan
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  9 22:16:51 2012
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From: "Rich Chrysler" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Date: Wed, 9 May 2012 22:59:14 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacement side screen plexiglas install  question
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First make sure the replacement panels are exactly the correct original
height. Simply position the plexi panel in the middle of the frame with the
lower edge in the channel, bow it gently but firmly to lose effective height
and pop it into place. Do not use heat or cold to try to improve things.
Cold will simply make it brittle. The alloy frame will also spread slightly
which will also help matters. 

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Gerow
Sent: May-05-12 5:37 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Replacement side screen plexiglas install question

Have got my weatherstrips installed on my sidescreens - thanks to those who
helped with that.

 

Now have to replace a broken Plexiglas panel  - do the panels need to be
heated in sunlight or hot water to help them flex enough to install in the
channels?

 

Has anyone ever tried freezing them to shrink them?

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
$12.75
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Thanks to everyone for the speedy, helpful replies. Much appreciated!
Alan
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: "Michael Oritt" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Cc: "Alan Grossman" <agrossman@pacific.net>; "Healey" 
<Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2012 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tire help


> Alan -
>
> Longstone has a few options for you:
>
> http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/page/austin-healey
>
> coker has options too;
>
> http://www.cokertire.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=185/70R15
> http://www.cokertire.com/165hr15-vredestein-sprint-blackwall-tire.html
>
> note that if you have the original rims on your car (60 spoke, 4.5
> inch rim width) then the 165s are a good option and MUCH cheaper.
>
> Alan
>
> On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 7:28 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> 
> wrote:
>> Alan--
>>
>> Opinions will vary on which tire is best but I think everyone will tell 
>> you
>> to have the same time on all four corners. If you must keep it, make the
>> Riken a spare but no more.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Wed, May 9, 2012 at 5:54 PM, Alan Grossman <agrossman@pacific.net> 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I tried a look in the archives, but it was pretty daunting.
>>> My BN 4 came with 3 old, but almost no miles P 3s, and a new Riken. Tire
>>> size
>>> 185/70 15. Anyhow the 3 Pirellis are toast. So I need 3 or 4 new tires. 
>>> Not
>>> having much luck looking on the web. Suggestions please.
>>>
>>> Thanks, Alan
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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>>
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Subject: [Healeys] for those really interested inBN1 Detail
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Hi Michael,
 
                was very interested on your thoughts re. the air saw. The 
thing that makes me  suggest a monodex cutter is the width of the cut. I very 
much doubt that the saw  blade is thick enough to make a cut this wide.If 
you remember, the monodex  as it cuts, produces a coil of metal as wide as 
the blade.
 
                                                    Regards,
 
                                                              Barrie from 
England 
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Subject: [Healeys] fender openings
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These are on my BN1 ( # 789 ) and appear to be original to the car. Bob

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of michigan bn1 001.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of michigan bn1 002.jpg]
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New post on my blog..

http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/


-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
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Subject: [Healeys] Electric Cooling Fan
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Anyone convert his cooling fan to one of those electric ones that fasten to
the radiator?

I'm curious about the size that is needed, and how easy it is to physically
install. I do have an electrical diagram for the thermostat.

Thanks,

Jack
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires, batteries and mufflers
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Robert, et al,

These Moss batteries are from Antique Battery Supply, but for almost double
the price.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Robert Duquette
Sent: May-07-12 5:12 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires, batteries and mufflers

> Moss has a repro:
> http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/459-380.pdf
> Or
> http://tinyurl.com/75sqm59
>
> Robert
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] #174....What colour was the frame!!
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Very interesting stuff...keep it coming please.

Richard
Generic middle of the run BN2 with some interesting points.

Sent from Ricky's iPad

On May 10, 2012, at 20:50, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:

> New post on my blog..
>
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/
>
>
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
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From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
To: "Jack Feldman" <qualitas.jack@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Date: Fri, 11 May 2012 00:25:50 +0100
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Cooling Fan
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Hi Jack, please see the following link to an article I wrote a couple of years
back on fitting a fan to my BJ8. Basic rule I would say is fit as big a fan as
you can depending on the size of the core on your radiator. I fitted a 14" fan
but I have seen cars with different size radiators which could only
accommodate a 12" fan.

http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Fan.pdf

Kindest regards

Tom
AH3000 BJ8 MkIII
MGA 1600 MkI
Classic Mini Park Lane

----- Original Message -----
  From: Jack Feldman
  To: healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2012 9:57 PM
  Subject: [Healeys] Electric Cooling Fan


  Anyone convert his cooling fan to one of those electric ones that fasten to
  the radiator?

  I'm curious about the size that is needed, and how easy it is to physically
  install. I do have an electrical diagram for the thermostat.

  Thanks,

  Jack
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Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 19:48:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] fender openings
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Wow, those look really strange.

Tim Davis BN7

----- Original Message -----
From: pensenwood@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2012 12:58:41 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [Healeys] fender openings

These are on my BN1 ( # 789 ) and appear to be original to the car. Bob

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of michigan bn1 001.jpg]

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Hi,

I'm starting to reassemble my front BJ8 hubs.  Should the distance piece be
greased or go in dry?  Does it turn on the spindle?

thanks,

Tom
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Dry.  Sufficiently torqued down, the inner bearing races and both spacers won't/shouldn't turn.

I used to pack the whole cavity with grease but read somewhere--possibly the shop manual--to only pack the bearings.

Bob


On 5/10/2012 5:54 PM, Tom wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm starting to reassemble my front BJ8 hubs.  Should the distance piece be
> greased or go in dry?  Does it turn on the spindle?
>
> thanks,
>
> Tom
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] for those really interested inBN1 Detail
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The distance piece and shims do not need to be greased and should not turn on
the stub axle. they bear on the inner bearing races and are pinched between
them. Their purpose is to allow the bearings to be set as close to zero
clearance as possible without introducing any preloading.

Bill Lawrence

> Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 20:54:59 -0400
> From: ah3000me@gmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] for those really interested inBN1 Detail
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm starting to reassemble my front BJ8 hubs.  Should the distance piece be
> greased or go in dry?  Does it turn on the spindle?
>
> thanks,
>
> Tom
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Cooling Fan
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Get the biggest fan you can fit to the core. These fans that fit 
straight to the core have been around for years and do not seem to harm 
the radiator but they have to fit properly and be securely, but not over 
tight,  fastened. Very simple and easy. Fit the thermo switch in a T 
piece with M20 thread fitted in the top hose or have an M20 adaptor 
soldered in the header tank of the radiator. Make sure that al coolant 
hoses are in perfect condition and remove the standard fan altogether.
Play around with various temperature ranges for the thermoswitch and the 
thermostat. You can use a sleeved thermostat with a higher opening temp 
of say 82 or 86 degrees C, for better and more efficient running of the 
engine, with a thermoswitch that cuts in at around 92 degrees C and cuts 
out at around 87 degrees or 96/92 respectively. You could go higher 
without any trouble, even in hot weather. I presently run my JH on a 
thermostat of 89 degrees, with a 96/102 degrees thermo switch with a 
10lbs cap and have had no problems at all driving in the very dense 
local traffic (jams) in very hot weather (35 degrees C). I use silicon 
hoses throughout.
There are hundreds of M20 threaded thermoswitches to choose from. Make 
sure that the radiator cap seals airtight using a thin rubber washer 
between the filler neck and the stainless steel or brass seal in the cap 
and use an expansion vessel with the hose going right to the bottom or 
entering the bottom to suck back the coolant when the engine cools down. 
Also use a 10-15 lbs radiator cap to prevent local boiling.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 10-5-2012 22:57, Jack Feldman schreef:
> Anyone convert his cooling fan to one of those electric ones that fasten to
> the radiator?
>
> I'm curious about the size that is needed, and how easy it is to physically
> install. I do have an electrical diagram for the thermostat.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jack
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> -----
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
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>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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The distance piece also makes the stub axle stronger. It should 
absolutely not be allowed to turn with the wheel, and it should also not 
be omitted when assembling the front wheel hub.

Per in Sweden

WILLIAM B LAWRENCE skrev 2012-05-11 06:40:
> The distance piece and shims do not need to be greased and should not turn on
> the stub axle. they bear on the inner bearing races and are pinched between
> them. Their purpose is to allow the bearings to be set as close to zero
> clearance as possible without introducing any preloading.
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Subject: [Healeys] Difficulty Starting
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Hi all
I am having trouble starting the car (BN1 July 54). I noticed that when I pulled the choke out the jet leaver on the front carburetor does not appear to move much. I disconnected the choke cable to the carbs and manually moved the Jet levers on both carbs. The rear carb leaver moves very freely and has a nice smooth action while the front carb leaver is tight and it takes a lot more effort to move. I removed the air filter on the front carb and moved the piston with my finger and it had a nice smooth movement so I am guessing nothing is binding inside the carb.B B Is the front jet leaver normally tight. If not what should I look at.
Thanks
B EoinB 
B 
Sent from my Android phone so All I Can Say Is It Made Sense Before It Left My Phone
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Hi Tom,
The distance piece, and its shims, act as a solid spacer between the inner
races of he bearings. When installed correctly it will be absolutely locked
in place by the torque you apply to the spindle nut and when that nut is
tight the hub should still turn freely with virtually no free play.
Getting the shim thickness adjusted correctly is critical and easiest to do
before you install the seal or grease.

-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*



On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 8:54 PM, Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I'm starting to reassemble my front BJ8 hubs.  Should the distance piece be
> greased or go in dry?  Does it turn on the spindle?
>
> thanks,
>
> Tom
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Difficulty Starting
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Eoin,
 Likely it's a build up of fuel deposits on and around the bore of the jet,
which moves up and down, the latter action to "activate" the richening for
starting purposes. Choke is not the correct terminology, but it is what we
were given... anyway, 1st course of action is to spray some sort of carb
cleaner product around the jet and move the jet through it's range of motion
and see if that cures it. More often than not you may have to completely
remove the jet to get/remove any heavy build up or corrosion that is
present. If you are careful and the jet glans are in good condition it's a
pull it out and push it back in sequence. If not, well then you will have to
remove the jet assembly and replace the cork bits and re-center the
assembly... which should have probably been done in the first place... ;~)
Dave
frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Eoin Galvin
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 6:42 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Difficulty Starting

Hi all
I am having trouble starting the car (BN1 July 54). I noticed that when I
pulled the choke out the jet leaver on the front carburetor does not appear
to move much. I disconnected the choke cable to the carbs and manually moved
the Jet levers on both carbs. The rear carb leaver moves very freely and has
a nice smooth action while the front carb leaver is tight and it takes a lot
more effort to move. I removed the air filter on the front carb and moved
the piston with my finger and it had a nice smooth movement so I am guessing
nothing is binding inside the carb.B B Is the front jet leaver normally
tight. If not what should I look at.
Thanks
B EoinB 
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Actually BJ-8 Front end Assembly --- for those really
 interested inBN1 Detail
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<< On 5/10/2012 11:40 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
                 The distance piece and shims do not need to be greased >>

Tom, nobody has mentioned that bearings MUST be squeaky clean whilst 
doing the initial set-up
assembly (meaning grease-less) ! !

Just RTM + follow The KISS Rule ! ! <G>  Tedious but rewarding job !

Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates    AH BJ 7    )
Founding Member - ILLINI Chapter, AHCA [close to 40 years].
Tech Contact & Member - AHCUSA
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

PS:  If you need a selection of shims, just write me direct & I'll 
send you some.  Start with one
         (1) .30 shim since you have NEW hubs.
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Subject: [Healeys] Installation of FIA approved cut out switch
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Hi all,

I've just ordered the above switch and Ive been reading up in preparation
for installation. The FIA approve cut out has 2 big terminal for the live
battery feed in and out then 2 pairs of extra terminals. One pair goes on
the circuit between the coil and the ignition switch and the other pair go
between the 'main electrical feed circuit' (as named in the instructions)
and a 3 ohm resistor to earth.

For the first pair I guess I just take the existing white wire that goes
from coil to ignition and route it from the coil to the switch and then
from the switch to the ignition.

Re the second pair, which connection would be best to acess the main
electrical feed circuit? The switch will be mounted on the dashboard.

I will remove the battery cutoff switch in the boot. Can I just simply
disconnect and remove the  black and white wire that runs from the cut off
switch to the coil?


thanks

Derek
www.healeysix.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 11 12:10:36 2012
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From: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
To: "'Derek Job'" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>, "'Forum'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Healey "Security" Circuit
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Subject: [Healeys] Healey "Security" Circuit
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When the switch in the trunk is flipped, is it supposed to be interrupting the
black white ground or is it supposed to be grounding it out?

The power will go to ground via the path of least resistance, so my theory is
that an ignition system (capacitor, spark plug, etc.) has lots of resistance,
so if the switch in the trunk is "on" then the black/white wire is not
grounded.  and when "off" the coil will ground itself out and no power will be
making it to the dist.  Right?

If that's the case, I can isolate this variable in my not working ignition by
disconnecting it in the trunk and making sure it isn't grounded.

The wiring diagram does not indicate which side of the switch the black and
white wire is actually on in the trunk.

If not as described above, is it a "flow" item similar to the ignition light
(charge/discharge) indicator?  And if so, How do I then Isolate it.





Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084
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From: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
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Thread-Topic: Healey "Security" Circuit
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Subject: [Healeys] FW: Healey "Security" Circuit
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When the switch in the trunk is flipped, is it supposed to be interrupting the
black white ground or is it supposed to be grounding it out?

The power will go to ground via the path of least resistance, so my theory is
that an ignition system (capacitor, spark plug, etc.) has lots of resistance,
so if the switch in the trunk is "on" then the black/white wire is not
grounded.  and when "off" the coil will ground itself out and no power will be
making it to the dist.  Right?

If that's the case, I can isolate this variable in my not working ignition by
disconnecting it in the trunk and making sure it isn't grounded.

The wiring diagram does not indicate which side of the switch the black and
white wire is actually on in the trunk.

If not as described above, is it a "flow" item similar to the ignition light
(charge/discharge) indicator?  And if so, How do I then Isolate it.





Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Installation of FIA approved cut out switch
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Derek--

I believe the second set of contacts is designed to ground the alternator.
 If you have a one-wire alternator then simply run a lead from the
alternator to one of the terminals and the other through a resistor and
then to ground.  If you have a three-wire alternator you'll have to ask
someone smarter than me.

Yes, you can either disconnect the b/w wire from the coil or if you wish to
maintain original appearance leave it connected and cut it somewhere else
in its length and insulate the end of the wire so the coil does not
inadvertently get grounded.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Fri, May 11, 2012 at 10:52 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I've just ordered the above switch and Ive been reading up in preparation
> for installation. The FIA approve cut out has 2 big terminal for the live
> battery feed in and out then 2 pairs of extra terminals. One pair goes on
> the circuit between the coil and the ignition switch and the other pair go
> between the 'main electrical feed circuit' (as named in the instructions)
> and a 3 ohm resistor to earth.
>
> For the first pair I guess I just take the existing white wire that goes
> from coil to ignition and route it from the coil to the switch and then
> from the switch to the ignition.
>
> Re the second pair, which connection would be best to acess the main
> electrical feed circuit? The switch will be mounted on the dashboard.
>
> I will remove the battery cutoff switch in the boot. Can I just simply
> disconnect and remove the  black and white wire that runs from the cut off
> switch to the coil?
>
>
> thanks
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 11 14:27:41 2012
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Date: Fri, 11 May 2012 18:39:47 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey "Security" Circuit
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re: "The power will go to ground via the path of least resistance, so my theory is 
that an ignition system (capacitor, spark plug, etc.) has lots of resistance, 
so if the switch in the trunk is "on" then the black/white wire is not 
grounded. and when "off" the coil will ground itself out and no power will be 
making it to the dist. Right?" 


Correct. In a points car, when the cutoff switch is in the 'Off' position the coil is grounded. When I installed a Pertronix unit, I moved the terminal so the circuit was open in the off position, breaking current flow to the coil. 

The white/black wire has its own terminal on the cutoff switch; it's connected internally to ground in the 'Off' position. It should be connected (in a points car) to the coil primary terminal opposite the power lead--the same terminal where the lead to the distributor is attached; i.e. in parallel--else it would be a dead short (as it is, only the coil resistance prevents it being a dead short). 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


When the switch in the trunk is flipped, is it supposed to be interrupting the 
black white ground or is it supposed to be grounding it out? 

The power will go to ground via the path of least resistance, so my theory is 
that an ignition system (capacitor, spark plug, etc.) has lots of resistance, 
so if the switch in the trunk is "on" then the black/white wire is not 
grounded. and when "off" the coil will ground itself out and no power will be 
making it to the dist. Right? 

If that's the case, I can isolate this variable in my not working ignition by 
disconnecting it in the trunk and making sure it isn't grounded. 

The wiring diagram does not indicate which side of the switch the black and 
white wire is actually on in the trunk. 

If not as described above, is it a "flow" item similar to the ignition light 
(charge/discharge) indicator? And if so, How do I then Isolate it. 





Jonas Payne 
PBR 
Cell: (702) 358-5084 
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Jonas, the switch in the trunk connects the white/black wire to ground when
the switch is ON.  At the same time, it also disconnects battery ground from
the chassis and grounds the points side of the ignition coil to prevent it
from generating the voltage required to fire the spark plugs.  Sometimes the
switch in the trunk shorts internally so that the white/black wire is
connected to ground even with the switch in the OFF position.  This will
prevent the car from starting.  If the internal failure also disconnects
battery ground, you will not have any electrical power at all.
To check to see if the switch is preventing ignition, disconnect the wire
from the trunk switch.  To check to see if the switch is disconnecting
battery ground, connect another wire from the battery negative terminal
directly to the chassis.

I had the switch failure problem while at Lake Tahoe for Open Roads 2002,
and I have driven the car with the switch disconnected ever since.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jonas Payne
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 12:40 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Healey "Security" Circuit

When the switch in the trunk is flipped, is it supposed to be interrupting
the black white ground or is it supposed to be grounding it out?

The power will go to ground via the path of least resistance, so my theory
is that an ignition system (capacitor, spark plug, etc.) has lots of
resistance, so if the switch in the trunk is "on" then the black/white wire
is not grounded.  and when "off" the coil will ground itself out and no
power will be making it to the dist.  Right?

If that's the case, I can isolate this variable in my not working ignition
by disconnecting it in the trunk and making sure it isn't grounded.

The wiring diagram does not indicate which side of the switch the black and
white wire is actually on in the trunk.

If not as described above, is it a "flow" item similar to the ignition light
(charge/discharge) indicator?  And if so, How do I then Isolate it.





Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084
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From: Patrick Williams <mathdocster@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, 2x2doc@gmail.com
Subject: [Healeys] I'm cleaning out my garage in Huntsville, AL
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I've got a bunch of Healey stuff, BN4 and BT7 that I will give away if
you come pick it up. Items include:
4 wings - original ,OK shape with a little dogleg rust
steering column
aluminum cockpit surround pieces
misc carb parts HD6
dash, bare aluminum
I'm downsizing my house and just don't have room for extra parts anymore.
Anyone from Atlanta, Nashville, etc interested? Did I say the stuff is free?
Pat Williams
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey "Security" Circuit
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Jonas:

As originally wired, the Healey's battery cut off switch grounds the 
ignition through the white/black wire that runs directly through the main 
wiring harness from the switch to the coil.  This was done to prevent the 
engine running on the generator - a possibility when the switch was switched 
to the off position with the engine running.  (We can thank the late Norman 
Nock for this explanation many years ago).  The anti-theft feature is an 
additional benefit - such that it is.

In a non-running car with no ignition, first check for the possibility that 
the wire is grounded at the switch - disconnect it and tape the exposed 
wire.  If the engine then runs, there is a problem at the switch, or with 
the switch itself.  If no luck there, disconnect the white/black wire at the 
coil.  If the engine then runs, the wire is grounded somewhere in the wiring 
harness - maybe at a frayed part in the harness underneath the car - it's 
been known to happen in a Healey!

If still no luck, the problem is elsewhere.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb


-----Original Message----- 
From: Jonas Payne
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 9:38 AM
To: 'Derek Job' ; 'Forum'
Subject: [Healeys] Healey "Security" Circuit

When the switch in the trunk is flipped, is it supposed to be interrupting 
the
black white ground or is it supposed to be grounding it out?

The power will go to ground via the path of least resistance, so my theory 
is
that an ignition system (capacitor, spark plug, etc.) has lots of 
resistance,
so if the switch in the trunk is "on" then the black/white wire is not
grounded.  and when "off" the coil will ground itself out and no power will 
be
making it to the dist.  Right?

If that's the case, I can isolate this variable in my not working ignition 
by
disconnecting it in the trunk and making sure it isn't grounded.

The wiring diagram does not indicate which side of the switch the black and
white wire is actually on in the trunk.

If not as described above, is it a "flow" item similar to the ignition light
(charge/discharge) indicator?  And if so, How do I then Isolate it.





Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084
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Subject: [Healeys] Front shroud attachment question
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Someone on this list sent me a question regarding the attachment of the
rear of the front shroud above the dash.
Sorry I have lost your message..please send it again.

-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
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From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey "Security" Circuit
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The battery switch when turned off will ground the white / black wire  
not allowing the engine to start.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 11, 2012, at 9:38 AM, Jonas Payne wrote:

> When the switch in the trunk is flipped, is it supposed to be  
> interrupting the
> black white ground or is it supposed to be grounding it out?
>
> The power will go to ground via the path of least resistance, so my  
> theory is
> that an ignition system (capacitor, spark plug, etc.) has lots of  
> resistance,
> so if the switch in the trunk is "on" then the black/white wire is not
> grounded.  and when "off" the coil will ground itself out and no  
> power will be
> making it to the dist.  Right?
>
> If that's the case, I can isolate this variable in my not working  
> ignition by
> disconnecting it in the trunk and making sure it isn't grounded.
>
> The wiring diagram does not indicate which side of the switch the  
> black and
> white wire is actually on in the trunk.
>
> If not as described above, is it a "flow" item similar to the  
> ignition light
> (charge/discharge) indicator?  And if so, How do I then Isolate it.
>
>
>
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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Hello Pat, what a generous offer, it's reassuring to know there are 
still people in this world happy to help out others without making a 
buck. That's what I call a real car guy. I'd be there looking for little 
treasures if I wasn't on the other side of the world! Cheers, Larry

On 12/05/2012 5:01 AM, Patrick Williams wrote:
> I've got a bunch of Healey stuff, BN4 and BT7 that I will give away if
> you come pick it up. Items include:
> 4 wings - original ,OK shape with a little dogleg rust
> steering column
> aluminum cockpit surround pieces
> misc carb parts HD6
> dash, bare aluminum
> I'm downsizing my house and just don't have room for extra parts anymore.
> Anyone from Atlanta, Nashville, etc interested? Did I say the stuff is free?
> Pat Williams
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hi all looking to attach fog lights by using the overdrive switch on the dash have a smitty concersion anyone out there have a diagram how to do it ,electrical isn't my forte
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 11 17:58:27 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Sad day
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Carroll Shelby has passed today at the age of 89. This is sad for all auto
enthusiasts. He did so; much for all auto sports.
Rich Kahn
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 11 18:58:36 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Carroll Shelby, Healey Racer, Dies at 89
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We've all seen that great picture of Carroll Shelby and the crew around 
the 100 at Bonneville in 1954.

... Carrol Shelby, the Texan driver who competed in many European events 
during the 1954 season, took over and attacked the International Class D 
record for the hour, which was duly obtained at a speed of 156.7m.p.h. 
For this run, a 10-mile circle was used, a course which seemed almost 
one long straight when seen from behind the wheel of a normal saloon but 
which seemed more like a rather difficult fast bend from the 
Streamliner's cockpit.

from
http://www.austinmemories.com/page8/page21/page21.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 11 18:59:42 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Cooling Fan
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Thanks to the folks who responded.

The big problem is to squeeze the fan either in front of behind the Healey
radiator.

I went to Barney Gaylord's *mgaguru.com*, where he had a discussion about
using the fans. His comment was that they really don't solve the problem He
described the issues with my MGC accurately. It heats up when running at
speed, and cools down when the speed drops. He said that the problem was
air flow, not the fan. Ed also suggested that an electric fan isn't
necessarily the answer.

Ill try and find an overflow tank for the Healey before looking further.

For the MGC, I'll try getting the radiator cleaned out, and make sure that
the timing is correct before trying the fan. I discovered, naturally be
accident, that there is a supplemental Service sheet for North America that
lists different timing then the manual.

Once again, thanks!

Jack
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In deed

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

 On May 11, 2012 3:36 PM, "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Carroll Shelby has passed today at the age of 89. This is sad for all auto
> enthusiasts. He did so; much for all auto sports.
> Rich Kahn
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 11 19:57:36 2012
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Eoin,

The front carb lever will naturally be somewhat stiffer to move because it
is also moving the rod with the fast idle cam, whereas the rear one has no
extra such load
I suspect as before, the little trunnion screw gripping the stirrup between
the two levers has slipped again to the point where it is not gripping
sufficient travel. Then because the stirrup will automatically try to
equalize the pull between the two levers, it simply pulls much more on the
rear one, therefore hardly any on the front. 
The remedy is again to carefully loosen the trunnion screw on the front
lever, pull more of the wire stirrup down through until they seem equalized,
and carefully tighten. I was always afraid to over tighten this trunnion
screw and break off the head of the screw. That's why it has slipped again.
Just for the enlightenment of the readers on this list, this is a freshly
restored car, completed only last July so undue residue or buildup is not an
issue here.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Eoin Galvin
Sent: May-11-12 8:42 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Difficulty Starting

Hi all
I am having trouble starting the car (BN1 July 54). I noticed that when I
pulled the choke out the jet leaver on the front carburetor does not appear
to move much. I disconnected the choke cable to the carbs and manually moved
the Jet levers on both carbs. The rear carb leaver moves very freely and has
a nice smooth action while the front carb leaver is tight and it takes a lot
more effort to move. I removed the air filter on the front carb and moved
the piston with my finger and it had a nice smooth movement so I am guessing
nothing is binding inside the carb.B B Is the front jet leaver normally
tight. If not what should I look at.
Thanks
B EoinB
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From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
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why use the OD switch----move the parking lights to the main light switch and use the parking light sw for the fog lights.

I did--works great.

tom
---- Ralph Cap <rjcapo1@yahoo.com> wrote: 

=============
hi all looking to attach fog lights by using the overdrive switch on the dash have a smitty concersion anyone out there have a diagram how to do it ,electrical isn't my forte
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Subject: [Healeys] 2 Arizona Bugeye Sprites looking for new home(s)
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Hi all,
Itbs time to thin out the collection to make room for a new British
acquisition b something more for living bon the edgeb. So, reluctantly I
have to
part with our 2 1960 Bugeye Sprites. So, before the E-Bay, Craigslist,
Bring-a-Trailer, etc. begins, I wonder if some of you might want to adopt one
or  both of these cars. I have owned these Tucson, Arizona cars almost 20
years and  they would be considered mostly as manufactured, middle of the road
quality cars  and very drivable.
For the somewhat purists, both are 948 cc, smooth case gearbox,  steel
wheels and drum brakes. The RED one has dual H1 SU carbs and a nonstandard
interior. The WHITE one runs a downdraft Weber and has MkII wheels. Both cars
have participated in Arizona vintage tours of 800+ miles over the past
years.
There is a red factory hardtop also available that would fit either  car.
If  youbre interested in one or both, contact me directly at
_rct2bnc@aol.com_ (mailto:rct2bnc@aol.com)  or 520 250  4453 for more details,
pictures,
prices and questions.  If you want both Ibll throw in all  spares, hardtop,
parts, engine, etc. as a  package.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 11 20:55:31 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Cooling Fan
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Jack,
Either car has something that channels the air through the radiator to 
keep it from going around it.  Make sure that all of the correct pieces 
are present to make sure that happens.
The Healey has the air deflector in front of the radiator and the C has 
a seal that goes between the radiator and the hood.
Seems to me that I've seen fan shrouds that go on the engine side for 
B's and C's.
Charlie

On 5/11/2012 7:46 PM, Jack Feldman wrote:
> Thanks to the folks who responded.
>
> The big problem is to squeeze the fan either in front of behind the Healey
> radiator.
>
> I went to Barney Gaylord's *mgaguru.com*, where he had a discussion about
> using the fans. His comment was that they really don't solve the problem He
> described the issues with my MGC accurately. It heats up when running at
> speed, and cools down when the speed drops. He said that the problem was
> air flow, not the fan. Ed also suggested that an electric fan isn't
> necessarily the answer.
>
> Ill try and find an overflow tank for the Healey before looking further.
>
> For the MGC, I'll try getting the radiator cleaned out, and make sure that
> the timing is correct before trying the fan. I discovered, naturally be
> accident, that there is a supplemental Service sheet for North America that
> lists different timing then the manual.
>
> Once again, thanks!
>
> Jack
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Ralph, the attached file shows how I wired a relay to control my driving 
lights from a separate toggle switch along with the high beam switch. Works 
nicely.

I close the switch and hit the high-beams on when I want the two Lucas 
driving lights to be operational (as well as the regular high beams). They 
lights go off when I hit the floor switch to low-beam.

You should be able to adapt this to your fog light needs.

If it doesn't come through, drop me an e-mail and I will re-send the file. 
If you need further help, feel free to call me at 207-967-8812.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ralph Cap" <rjcapo1@yahoo.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 5:45 PM
Subject: [Healeys] fog lights


> hi all looking to attach fog lights by using the overdrive switch on the 
> dash have a smitty concersion anyone out there have a diagram how to do it 
> ,electrical isn't my forte
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 11 May 2012 20:51:50 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] fog lights
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I replaced the single position dash light with a double position like the
headlight/parking light switch. First pull is dash light, next position is
dash plus fogs. Works fine. I've got them rigged to go off with the high
beam.
Rich Kahn

> Date: Fri, 11 May 2012 14:45:26 -0700
> From: rjcapo1@yahoo.com
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] fog lights
>
> hi all looking to attach fog lights by using the overdrive switch on the
dash have a smitty concersion anyone out there have a diagram how to do it
,electrical isn't my forte
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To: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack@gmail.com>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Cooling Fan
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Have the radiator recored with a core with higher cooling capacity. 
Having it cleaned out is generally a waste of time and money.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 12-5-2012 1:46, Jack Feldman schreef:
> Thanks to the folks who responded.
>
> The big problem is to squeeze the fan either in front of behind the Healey
> radiator.
>
> I went to Barney Gaylord's *mgaguru.com*, where he had a discussion about
> using the fans. His comment was that they really don't solve the problem He
> described the issues with my MGC accurately. It heats up when running at
> speed, and cools down when the speed drops. He said that the problem was
> air flow, not the fan. Ed also suggested that an electric fan isn't
> necessarily the answer.
>
> Ill try and find an overflow tank for the Healey before looking further.
>
> For the MGC, I'll try getting the radiator cleaned out, and make sure that
> the timing is correct before trying the fan. I discovered, naturally be
> accident, that there is a supplemental Service sheet for North America that
> lists different timing then the manual.
>
> Once again, thanks!
>
> Jack
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> -----
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
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>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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From: Brian Drab <bgdrab@eastlink.ca>
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Subject: [Healeys] Rendezvous 2012 Deadline
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May 15th is coming soon and that is the deadline for getting the preferred
rate at Tigh Na Mara Seaside Resort, the site of Rendezvous 2012.

If you plan on attending and have not yet registered and booked your
accommodation, you could be running out of time. We have planned a truly
great event with lots to see and do and all this in one of the most
beautiful locations on the west coast. Tigh Na Mara is located near
Parksville, on Vancouver Island, a 90 minute  ferry ride from Washington
State or Vancouver B.C.  The ferry ride alone is worth the trip! 

For more information on this event go to our website at
www.healeyrendezvous.com . See you there!

Brian Drab - AHOABC
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 12 08:49:38 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Rich Chrysler'" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>, "'Eoin Galvin'"
	<eoingalvin@cogeco.ca>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Difficulty Starting BN1
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Rich, et al
 I always depress the accelerator pedal to WOT (wide open throttle) position
when I pull the Choke knob out. This relieves the issue of the fast run
cam.... 
 BYARKT...

dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rich Chrysler
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 6:49 PM
To: 'Eoin Galvin'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Difficulty Starting BN1

Eoin,

The front carb lever will naturally be somewhat stiffer to move because it
is also moving the rod with the fast idle cam, whereas the rear one has no
extra such load
I suspect as before, the little trunnion screw gripping the stirrup between
the two levers has slipped again to the point where it is not gripping
sufficient travel. Then because the stirrup will automatically try to
equalize the pull between the two levers, it simply pulls much more on the
rear one, therefore hardly any on the front. 
The remedy is again to carefully loosen the trunnion screw on the front
lever, pull more of the wire stirrup down through until they seem equalized,
and carefully tighten. I was always afraid to over tighten this trunnion
screw and break off the head of the screw. That's why it has slipped again.
Just for the enlightenment of the readers on this list, this is a freshly
restored car, completed only last July so undue residue or buildup is not an
issue here.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Eoin Galvin
Sent: May-11-12 8:42 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Difficulty Starting

Hi all
I am having trouble starting the car (BN1 July 54). I noticed that when I
pulled the choke out the jet leaver on the front carburetor does not appear
to move much. I disconnected the choke cable to the carbs and manually moved
the Jet levers on both carbs. The rear carb leaver moves very freely and has
a nice smooth action while the front carb leaver is tight and it takes a lot
more effort to move. I removed the air filter on the front carb and moved
the piston with my finger and it had a nice smooth movement so I am guessing
nothing is binding inside the carb.B B Is the front jet leaver normally
tight. If not what should I look at.
Thanks
B EoinB
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From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
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	<healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rendezvous 2012 Deadline
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This will be another epic HWY 1 trip.  

Warm Regards,
 
Tracy Drummond
 

Subject: [Healeys] Rendezvous 2012 Deadline

May 15th is coming soon and that is the deadline for getting the preferred
rate at Tigh Na Mara Seaside Resort, the site of Rendezvous 2012.

If you plan on attending and have not yet registered and booked your
accommodation, you could be running out of time. We have planned a truly
great event with lots to see and do and all this in one of the most
beautiful locations on the west coast. Tigh Na Mara is located near
Parksville, on Vancouver Island, a 90 minute  ferry ride from Washington
State or Vancouver B.C.  The ferry ride alone is worth the trip! 

For more information on this event go to our website at
www.healeyrendezvous.com . See you there!

Brian Drab - AHOABC
_______________________________________________
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From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: "'Ralph Cap'" <rjcapo1@yahoo.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] fog lights
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I used the OD switch (Smitty also)  I wired to the low beams.

I found a wiring with relay kit on eBay for 4 wheel drives for about 18$
that came with good wire.

Simply put the relay acts as a switch.  Hope this helps.

Warm Regards,
 
Tracy Drummond
 
PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey@charter.net | 408-394-3444
cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ralph Cap
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 2:45 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] fog lights

hi all looking to attach fog lights by using the overdrive switch on the
dash have a smitty concersion anyone out there have a diagram how to do it
,electrical isn't my forte _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 12 11:05:23 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rendezvous 2012 Deadline
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I have a spare bedroom in Portland, if anyone needs a place stay on the way
north. Alas I am off of I 5 , not Hwy 1.
Let me know off list. For me, no funds means no way for me to attend. At
this point my car is still not running....

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

 On May 12, 2012 6:57 AM, "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net> wrote:

> This will be another epic HWY 1 trip.
>
> Warm Regards,
>
> Tracy Drummond
>
>
> Subject: [Healeys] Rendezvous 2012 Deadline
>
> May 15th is coming soon and that is the deadline for getting the preferred
> rate at Tigh Na Mara Seaside Resort, the site of Rendezvous 2012.
>
> If you plan on attending and have not yet registered and booked your
> accommodation, you could be running out of time. We have planned a truly
> great event with lots to see and do and all this in one of the most
> beautiful locations on the west coast. Tigh Na Mara is located near
> Parksville, on Vancouver Island, a 90 minute  ferry ride from Washington
> State or Vancouver B.C.  The ferry ride alone is worth the trip!
>
> For more information on this event go to our website at
> www.healeyrendezvous.com . See you there!
>
> Brian Drab - AHOABC
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I took power for the road lamps (not fog lights) off the high-beam side of
the dip switch, and ran it to through a fuse to relay C1 terminal on the
firewall.  Connection to the lamps comes into the relay at C2.  Run power to
W1 and then connect W2 to a toggle switch then ground.  Roads lamps Lights
go on only toggle is thrown and high beams are on.  Hit the dip switch to
lower the lights and the road lamps turn off automatically.  John Trifari
Golden Gate AHC   BN1 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: FridI took power for the foggers off the high-beam side of the dip
switchay, May 11, 2012 7:46 PM
To: Ralph Cap; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fog lights

Ralph, the attached file shows how I wired a relay to control my driving
lights from a separate toggle switch along with the high beam switch. Works
nicely.

I close the switch and hit the high-beams on when I want the two Lucas
driving lights to be operational (as well as the regular high beams). They
lights go off when I hit the floor switch to low-beam.

You should be able to adapt this to your fog light needs.

If it doesn't come through, drop me an e-mail and I will re-send the file. 
If you need further help, feel free to call me at 207-967-8812.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm




----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Cap" <rjcapo1@yahoo.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 5:45 PM
Subject: [Healeys] fog lights


> hi all looking to attach fog lights by using the overdrive switch on the 
> dash have a smitty concersion anyone out there have a diagram how to do it

> ,electrical isn't my forte
> _______________________________________________
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Listers,
 
I switched the power for my PU truck shell's interior lights to a hot wire today.  I picked up a hot on a wire (maybe 10 gauge) which is to operate a boat winch.  Formerly the hot was the rear running lights but I wanted to operate the shell light without having to turn on anything (the fixtures have switches).  Q is should I add say a 5A in line fuse to these lights or should I depend on the fuse for the winch system?
 
Thanks for any replies
Keith
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Subject: [Healeys] dwell
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I checked the dwell with two different meters. One read 30 the other 28. Book
says 34. I called Jeff at Advanced Distributor  who rebuilt it 2 years ago and
he said not to use a dwell meter because the are all different and not that
accurate. He suggested setting the gap at .016. I did that and the meter
readings moved lower. The engine runs smooth. What gives?
Rich Kahn
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Subject: [Healeys] Moment/Anderson Restoration Guide
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Listers,

The Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide by Gary Anderson and 
Roger Moment is apparently now available in Google ebook format.  I ran 
across it on Powell's Books' website: 
http://www.powells.com/biblio?show=ELECTRONIC:GOOGLE%20EBOOKS:9781610608145:31.02#

It's $31.02, available to only US customers and is not printable.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
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Rubbing block wear.

Bill Lawrence

> From: tahoehealey@hotmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 18:38:38 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] dwell
>
> I checked the dwell with two different meters. One read 30 the other 28.
Book
> says 34. I called Jeff at Advanced Distributor  who rebuilt it 2 years ago
and
> he said not to use a dwell meter because the are all different and not that
> accurate. He suggested setting the gap at .016. I did that and the meter
> readings moved lower. The engine runs smooth. What gives?
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
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Dwell and point gap are related, and as your points wear, the dwell will decrease, weakening your spark.

The dwell meter is handy in that you can check your points wear without taking the dizzy out to check gap.

Set to .16 and then check what the dwell meter says.  Make a note of the dwel setting and then when you check dwell again, and it's changed more than a couple points, then take out the dizzy and reset the points again....

Or just get a pertronix ignitor module and be done with it.... forever.  

:)

Alan
------Original Message------
From: Richard Kahn
Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] dwell
Sent: May 13, 2012 09:38

I checked the dwell with two different meters. One read 30 the other 28. Book
says 34. I called Jeff at Advanced Distributor  who rebuilt it 2 years ago and
he said not to use a dwell meter because the are all different and not that
accurate. He suggested setting the gap at .016. I did that and the meter
readings moved lower. The engine runs smooth. What gives?
Rich Kahn
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Sent by BlackBerry. from PCCW mobile
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 22:27:48 -0700
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dwell
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Well to start with you are reading the wrong scale.
Secondly if the guy that built your distributor doesn't know this he is an
idiot.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 12, 2012, at 18:38, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com> wrote:

> I checked the dwell with two different meters. One read 30 the other 28.
Book
> says 34. I called Jeff at Advanced Distributor  who rebuilt it 2 years ago
and
> he said not to use a dwell meter because the are all different and not that
> accurate. He suggested setting the gap at .016. I did that and the meter
> readings moved lower. The engine runs smooth. What gives?
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] dwell
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Dwell angle meters are actually quite accurate. It is setting the gap 
that is rather inaccurate, and depending on the skill of the (home) 
mechanic. After a few thousand miles the dwell angle will be off partly 
because of wear of the points, but these days also because of the 
plastic lobe that runs on the cams of the distributor shaft. In the ol' 
days this lobe was made of fiber and lasted much better, also the poits 
were of a different material that did not wear as fast as the modern 
ones made in India, China, Vietnam or whatever. Chuck the the points and 
go electronic. Costs little money, from as cheap as $50 or even less, 
and if fitted properly lasts a lifetime without needing attention to the 
timing. The only disadvantage is that you tend to forget to service the 
distributor regularly. It still needs the odd drop of oil on top of the 
shaft and the occasional squirt of thin oil or WD40 on the weights and 
springs under the base plate.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 13-5-2012 3:38, Richard Kahn schreef:
> I checked the dwell with two different meters. One read 30 the other 28. Book
> says 34. I called Jeff at Advanced Distributor  who rebuilt it 2 years ago and
> he said not to use a dwell meter because the are all different and not that
> accurate. He suggested setting the gap at .016. I did that and the meter
> readings moved lower. The engine runs smooth. What gives?
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
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>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 13 06:58:58 2012
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From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
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On of the reasons I went to Pertronix years ago.

tom
---- healey.nut@gmail.com wrote: 

=============
Dwell and point gap are related, and as your points wear, the dwell will decrease, weakening your spark.

The dwell meter is handy in that you can check your points wear without taking the dizzy out to check gap.

Set to .16 and then check what the dwell meter says.  Make a note of the dwel setting and then when you check dwell again, and it's changed more than a couple points, then take out the dizzy and reset the points again....

Or just get a pertronix ignitor module and be done with it.... forever.  

:)

Alan
------Original Message------
From: Richard Kahn
Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] dwell
Sent: May 13, 2012 09:38

I checked the dwell with two different meters. One read 30 the other 28. Book
says 34. I called Jeff at Advanced Distributor  who rebuilt it 2 years ago and
he said not to use a dwell meter because the are all different and not that
accurate. He suggested setting the gap at .016. I did that and the meter
readings moved lower. The engine runs smooth. What gives?
Rich Kahn
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 13 08:21:39 2012
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I don't understand either of these statements.
Alan
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2012 10:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dwell


> Well to start with you are reading the wrong scale.
> Secondly if the guy that built your distributor doesn't know this he is an
> idiot.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 12, 2012, at 18:38, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I checked the dwell with two different meters. One read 30 the other 28.
> Book
>> says 34. I called Jeff at Advanced Distributor  who rebuilt it 2 years 
>> ago
> and
>> he said not to use a dwell meter because the are all different and not 
>> that
>> accurate. He suggested setting the gap at .016. I did that and the meter
>> readings moved lower. The engine runs smooth. What gives?
>> Rich Kahn
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>>
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Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Louisville
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Only 34 days until Conclave Louisville! We currently have more than 225
registrations and Ben Moore and his crew have put together a exciting Conclave
for you.

May 15 is the deadline for Regalia pre-orders. Room blocks at the Crowne Plaza
will be released on May 15 so make your reservations soon.

For more information visit http://www.2012conclave.com/

Join us in Louisville!




Jim Werner
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Please remove my name/listing from any future mailings ....thank you..  Don
Paye  dpaye@crocker.com
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Dwell is the period, measured in degrees of distributor rotation, that 
the points are closed.  If you increase the point gap, the points will 
be open for a longer period, meaning the dwell will be shorter.

For a 6 cylinder, the dwell should be on the order of 30-35 degrees; for 
a 4 cylinder, somewhere around 45 degrees.

The factory workshop manual I have doesn't give dwell, but gives the 
points gap to be 0.014-0.016".

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] dwell
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Dwell is a measurement of the angle between when the points close and when
they open again.
Roughly speaking the points are going to be open about 120 degrees out of the
360 degrees in a full circle. That leave 240 degrees (approx) of closed time
divided by the number of cam lobes. So take a 4 cylinder engine has 4 lobes on
the dist cam we have 240/4= 60 degrees of dwell. Depending on engine design
the range for these engines is 58-62 typically.
A 6 cylinder engine gives us 240/6= 40 with a typical range of 38-44 degrees.
A V8 has twice the lobes of a 4 cylinder so you have 30 degrees with a range
of about 28-32 degrees.
Analog dwell meters typically have two scales a 6 cylinder scale and an 8
cylinder scale with a note to double the readings if you have a four cylinder.
So if someone with a six cylinder engine says they have the dwell set at 30
degrees either they are reading the 8 cylinder scale or their points are WAY
WAY off.
Anyone who works with distributors who doesn't realize that 30 degrees is the
wrong scale for a six cylinder in .001 seconds is an idiot IMHO.
BTW a couple of notes about dwell. Set points to the minimum end of the spec
range. As the rubbing block wears the points will be closed more and the dwell
will rise. By setting to min you ensure they stay in the proper range.
After you have them set correctly rev the engine and watch the dwell it should
not change by more than a degree or so. If the bushings in the distributor are
bad the dwell will jump all over the place.
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

On May 13, 2012, at 6:37, "Alan Grossman" <agrossman@pacific.net> wrote:

> I don't understand either of these statements.
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Subject: [Healeys] New Pos111t on my Blog..a Real Mindbender
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Again this is intended only for those who are particularly interested in
the finest details of an early 100.

http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=911

-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
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Subject: [Healeys] Float bowl needles
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I need to open up my float bowls to look for sticking needles or something
that is causing my carbs to flood.  It happens when I try to start the engine
again after a long drive.  It will eventually start, but with a lot of gas
smell which I assume is the flooding.  No other problems.  Runs great.

What are current opinions about new needles (Moss advertising Viton Tip) or
Grose-Jets??

Ron Fine
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 13 18:47:05 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Ron Fine'" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Ron,
 It sounds like you bowls aren't correctly vented. You must have the ( I
call it a tri-hat washer) either the early aluminum or the red fiber ones.
Dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Fine
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2012 4:39 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Float bowl needles

I need to open up my float bowls to look for sticking needles or something
that is causing my carbs to flood.  It happens when I try to start the
engine
again after a long drive.  It will eventually start, but with a lot of gas
smell which I assume is the flooding.  No other problems.  Runs great.

What are current opinions about new needles (Moss advertising Viton Tip) or
Grose-Jet
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From: Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 18:40:04 -0500
To: Ron Fine <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Float bowl needles
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Since ethanol became part of my life I have had a lot of problems with grose
jets and went back to standard needles from moss. Result= no more flooding or
problem. Maybe my new needles are viton type.

Jose
Bogota, Colombia

Sent from my iPad

On 13/05/2012, at 5:38 p.m., "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net> wrote:

> I need to open up my float bowls to look for sticking needles or something
> that is causing my carbs to flood.  It happens when I try to start the
engine
> again after a long drive.  It will eventually start, but with a lot of gas
> smell which I assume is the flooding.  No other problems.  Runs great.
>
> What are current opinions about new needles (Moss advertising Viton Tip) or
> Grose-Jets??
>
> Ron Fine
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Float bowl needles
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If the float needles are sticking open you will see raw gas dripping on the
ground from the overflow tubes assuming your car still has overflow tubes that
are not clogged up.
I don't think thsi is your cause of "flooding".
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Fine <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 13, 2012 6:25 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Float bowl needles


I need to open up my float bowls to look for sticking needles or something
that is causing my carbs to flood.  It happens when I try to start the engine
again after a long drive.  It will eventually start, but with a lot of gas
smell which I assume is the flooding.  No other problems.  Runs great.

What are current opinions about new needles (Moss advertising Viton Tip) or
Grose-Jets??

Ron Fine
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From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Ron Fine <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Float bowl needles
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Ron -

Do you have a BN1/BN2?  If so that will change this answer slightly.

Generally speaking if your float bowls are leaking, changing the jets
or putting it Grose jets will not fix the problem.  Leaking usually is
from either incorrectly adjusted float levers which jam the needle
open, or more commonly from crud in your fuel.  If you don't have a
fuel filter on your car, I highly suggest you put one on.

Also, if you have a sunken float, that will cause leaking problems as
well.  I recommend switching to Nitrophyl floats, I've sunk ALOT of
floats in my day... and I'm still in my 40's!

http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/AH%20BN1-BJ8--Carburetion%20Fuel%20Syste
m/10766/Carburetor%20Float%20H-Type%20and%20HD%20Type%20Nitrophyl

Best,

Alan



On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 6:38 AM, Ron Fine <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I need to open up my float bowls to look for sticking needles or something
> that is causing my carbs to flood.  It happens when I try to start the
engine
> again after a long drive.  It will eventually start, but with a lot of gas
> smell which I assume is the flooding.  No other problems.  Runs great.
>
> What are current opinions about new needles (Moss advertising Viton Tip) or
> Grose-Jets??
>
> Ron Fine
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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Donald Paye wrote:
> Please remove my name/listing from any future mailings ....thank you..  Don
> Paye

I'm assuming when you clicked on the unsubscribe link at the bottom
of each message, it didn't work.  What, exactly happened?  I thought
it was working:

http://www.team.net/status.html


mjb.
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You are wrong on both statements.

> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> From: richard.ewald@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] dwell
> Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 22:27:48 -0700
> To: tahoehealey@hotmail.com
>
> Well to start with you are reading the wrong scale.
> Secondly if the guy that built your distributor doesn't know this he is an
idiot.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 12, 2012, at 18:38, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I checked the dwell with two different meters. One read 30 the other 28.
Book
> > says 34. I called Jeff at Advanced Distributor  who rebuilt it 2 years ago
and
> > he said not to use a dwell meter because the are all different and not
that
> > accurate. He suggested setting the gap at .016. I did that and the meter
> > readings moved lower. The engine runs smooth. What gives?
> > Rich Kahn
> > _______________________________________________
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Sorry for the error on my part ..... must have been a senior moment!!!  many 
thanks for the instructions.  Don



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
To: "Alan Grossman" <agrossman@pacific.net>
Cc: "Healey" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2012 11:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dwell


> Dwell is the period, measured in degrees of distributor rotation, that the 
> points are closed.  If you increase the point gap, the points will be open 
> for a longer period, meaning the dwell will be shorter.
>
> For a 6 cylinder, the dwell should be on the order of 30-35 degrees; for a 
> 4 cylinder, somewhere around 45 degrees.
>
> The factory workshop manual I have doesn't give dwell, but gives the 
> points gap to be 0.014-0.016".
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 01:16:14 +1000
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dwell
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With all due respect, guys.
I never stir up people on this list!
;-)
But Seriously. We all make assumptions.
I think you both did.
Personally, let's just make this about facts. Is that fair????
Ok.
Facts.
1. Richard K.
You didn't specify which distributor you had. DM6? 25D6? Which model Lucas? Is
it even a Lucas? Modified engine? All bets are off if it isn't ...
You know different Lucas cams have different dwell angles? They aren't all
identical??
2. Richard E.
Mate. You've done this a thousand times, but mostly with the distributor in
your hand... Where you can look, measure, and refer to books, because you know
they arent all the same... You offered your expertise based on assumptions -
and rules of thumb. Yeah. Good rules of thumb - but still...
We all know Lucas distributors have more dwell. Generally, Lucas points stay
closed longer. My guess why?? Crap Lucas coils.... Mallory are different.
BUT - If Richard K didn't say, you can't assume? Ok Richard E?
Guys. I love a good argument!!
;-)
But only if it's factual, and educational, and entertaining, and if everyone
plays the ball. Not the man.
Ok. So it's my throw in.... It's Rugby!!

So..... Personally, I think dwell is a waste of time, and is only for blokes
with expensive instruments, who can't correctly use a cheap feeler guage.
Ok?
Just play the ball...
;-)
Sincerely.
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com
Sent from my iPhone

On 14/05/2012, at 12:58 PM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com> wrote:

> You are wrong on both statements.
>
>> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
>> From: richard.ewald@gmail.com
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] dwell
>> Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 22:27:48 -0700
>> To: tahoehealey@hotmail.com
>>
>> Well to start with you are reading the wrong scale.
>> Secondly if the guy that built your distributor doesn't know this he is an
> idiot.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On May 12, 2012, at 18:38, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I checked the dwell with two different meters. One read 30 the other 28.
> Book
>>> says 34. I called Jeff at Advanced Distributor  who rebuilt it 2 years
ago
> and
>>> he said not to use a dwell meter because the are all different and not
> that
>>> accurate. He suggested setting the gap at .016. I did that and the meter
>>> readings moved lower. The engine runs smooth. What gives?
>>> Rich Kahn
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From: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
To: "'healeys@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Ignition Problem BJ8
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Subject: [Healeys] Ignition Problem BJ8
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For the past 2 weeks, my car has been starting just fine, and can run at idle
indefinitely, but within minutes of taking off for a drive, conks out and will
not restart - no spark.  Initially, after a few minutes, the car would restart
and run for about 30 to 40 seconds before conking out again.

Finally it would not start at all.  At that point, I swapped out the coil and
condenser with one from an operating car and it still wouldn't start.

Over the weekend, I disconnected the "security circuit" at both ends, and also
discovered that the nylon washer /capacitor/ground/ points post in the dist.
Were assembled in the wrong order.  Upon fixing this, the car fired right up.

Today, it fired right up, warmed up  to operating temp, and within 1 minute of
running, conked out and will not restart.

Any ideas?


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Problem BJ8
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Jonas,
Sounds like a heat soak related open or short circuit. In swapping the coil
and condenser, you arrested the key suspects. I would bet even after the
swap, the condenser is shorting when hot. Other possibilities are a carbon
track in the distributor cap from center contact to one spark plug or to the
distributor housing, or a breakdown of the coil to distribution high tension
wire insulation, or an open in the coil low voltage wire or ground. I
suggest first moving this wire so it has different near touching or
grounding points, exchanging it end to end would do this. Next would be a
careful inspection of the distributor cap. Then running a parallel patch
wire from ignition hot to the coil. After that I join you in confusion. A
graduate of the US Army Command and General Staff College share with me one
of their teachings "If you are not confused, you do not understand the
situation." Perhaps we "understand" it together.
Hap

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jonas Payne
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 1:07 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition Problem BJ8

For the past 2 weeks, my car has been starting just fine, and can run at
idle indefinitely, but within minutes of taking off for a drive, conks out
and will not restart - no spark.  Initially, after a few minutes, the car
would restart and run for about 30 to 40 seconds before conking out again.

Finally it would not start at all.  At that point, I swapped out the coil
and condenser with one from an operating car and it still wouldn't start.

Over the weekend, I disconnected the "security circuit" at both ends, and
also discovered that the nylon washer /capacitor/ground/ points post in the
dist.
Were assembled in the wrong order.  Upon fixing this, the car fired right
up.

Today, it fired right up, warmed up  to operating temp, and within 1 minute
of running, conked out and will not restart.

Any ideas?


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084
$12.75
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Problem BJ8
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Jonas

What happened before the last 2 weeks?

Has anything been worked on or changed just before then?

cheers
John Rowe
Perth

On 15/05/2012 4:06 AM, Jonas Payne wrote:
> For the past 2 weeks, my car has been starting just fine, and can run at idle
> indefinitely, but within minutes of taking off for a drive, conks out and will
> not restart - no spark.  Initially, after a few minutes, the car would restart
> and run for about 30 to 40 seconds before conking out again.
>
> Finally it would not start at all.  At that point, I swapped out the coil and
> condenser with one from an operating car and it still wouldn't start.
>
> Over the weekend, I disconnected the "security circuit" at both ends, and also
> discovered that the nylon washer /capacitor/ground/ points post in the dist.
> Were assembled in the wrong order.  Upon fixing this, the car fired right up.
>
> Today, it fired right up, warmed up  to operating temp, and within 1 minute of
> running, conked out and will not restart.
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Jonas Payne <JPayne@thorcon.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Problem BJ8
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Jonas -

I used to have a similar problem with my BJ8.  I eventually solved the
problem by chasing down the white wire from the coil, to the
tachometer, to the ignition switch and making sure that wire had clean
firm connections all the way from the ignition switch to the coil.  I
later determined that corrosion on the Lucar terminals, and the part
where the wire went into the Lucar female (on the harness) had
corrosion on it to where when the wire heated up, the resistance would
increase and I would start losing spark.  Of course I would get some
warning with a sputtering ignition for a bit until it would conk out.
This little white wire gets more current than any other wire in the
harness and should have very good connections for your ignition to
work properly.

Also try swapping your cap and rotor.  A final thing to check is if
you are using modern suppressed ignition wires with your lucas
distributor, this could also be a problem.  You should only use solid
core wire with a lucas distributor.  Modern suppressed wires can lose
their ability to conduct electricity when stuck in an old vibrating
lucas distributor.

Hope that helps.

Alan





On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 4:06 AM, Jonas Payne <JPayne@thorcon.net> wrote:
> For the past 2 weeks, my car has been starting just fine, and can run at
idle
> indefinitely, but within minutes of taking off for a drive, conks out and
will
> not restart - no spark.  Initially, after a few minutes, the car would
restart
> and run for about 30 to 40 seconds before conking out again.
>
> Finally it would not start at all.  At that point, I swapped out the coil
and
> condenser with one from an operating car and it still wouldn't start.
>
> Over the weekend, I disconnected the "security circuit" at both ends, and
also
> discovered that the nylon washer /capacitor/ground/ points post in the
dist.
> Were assembled in the wrong order.  Upon fixing this, the car fired right
up.
>
> Today, it fired right up, warmed up  to operating temp, and within 1 minute
of
> running, conked out and will not restart.
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
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Ignition problem resolved - the incorrect installation order of the capacitor
and ground lead in relation to the nylon bush on the points post was causing
the coil to arc out across its terminals.

This problem was fixed over the weekend and a re-charge on the battery
yesterday resolved the start issue but didn't resolve the conking out issue.

Another stall out yesterday that was immediately rectified by pulling the
choke out on a hot engine (thus indicating that the fuel level in the bowls
was low) indicated a fuel delivery problem, which was confirmed when I got
home in emails from several listers (thanks!!!).  Pulled the line on the lead
carb and turned on the ignition, and the fuel pump is only providing a
trickle, and nowhere near enough to run the car at anything other than idle.

The fuel pump is new, the tank is new and all the lines are new.  The pump
sound and reaction at the front would appear to indicate a blockage on the
"force end" of the system as opposed to the suction end the pump, but I plan
on pulling the lines and determining that tonight.



Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084
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From: "Mike Sinclair" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] brakes
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After a lot of work tracing a leak at my rear wheel brakes on my 100M, I have
narrowed it down to the wheel cylinder itself.  It's been so long since I
worked on this car, I'm not up to date on where to buy parts.  I did look at
Moss, but couldn't find it.  Any suggestions?  Also, plan to buy some nuts for
the hub attach, if I can find them.

TIA
Mike
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 10:40:06 -0600
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frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world

 

On the Home page of this 'Pickers" outfit it a pretty cool healey porcelain
sign.
http://www.americanpickerswarehouse.com/Austin-Healey-Automobile-Car-Porcela
in-Sign_p_652.html

 

I know nothing about this outfit. I just stumbled on it last night and
thought there might be someone interested in it.. I don't know if it's old
or new or a reproduction.. I'm just passing on the link. Too rich for my
blood.

dp
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Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 12:33:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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Looks just like the one Triple C has on eBay for $24.95:
http://tinyurl.com/cxfsee3
Maybe American Pocket Picker's Warehouse?  Doesn't look like it's connected to
the History Channel show but trying to give that impression.


Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Tue, 5/15/12, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com> wrote:

From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Subject: [Healeys] heads up.. collectors
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, May 15, 2012, 12:40 PM

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world



On the Home page of this 'Pickers" outfit it a pretty cool healey porcelain
sign.
http://www.americanpickerswarehouse.com/Austin-Healey-Automobile-Car-Porcela
in-Sign_p_652.html



I know nothing about this outfit. I just stumbled on it last night and
thought there might be someone interested in it.. I don't know if it's old
or new or a reproduction.. I'm just passing on the link. Too rich for my
blood.

dp
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Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 13:24:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
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If you can't live without it you can Buy It Now on ebay for $24.95 + $7.30
shipping.  Here is the link.  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-LOGO-GENUINE-PORCELAIN-ENAMEL-SIGN-/300
582621710?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fc1ed20e  


There are 7 left out
of the 15 that were available.

Ron Mitchell
BN6
BN7
________________________________
 From: David Porter
<frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 15,
2012 12:40 PM
Subject: [Healeys] heads up.. collectors
frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA
87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun
facts-my world



On the Home page of this 'Pickers" outfit it a pretty cool
healey porcelain
sign.
http://www.americanpickerswarehouse.com/Austin-Healey-Automobile-Car-Porcela
in-Sign_p_652.html



I know nothing about this outfit. I just stumbled on it
last night and
thought there might be someone interested in it.. I don't know
if it's old
or new or a reproduction.. I'm just passing on the link. Too rich
for my
blood.

dp
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From: Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com>
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BT7 - Are there any good articles or documents on how to calibrate a smiths
speedometer?
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Subject: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin 
Healey 100-M " they have for sale. 

http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151

What do you think?

G/
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There's a PDF article that talks about this on John Sim's website.  It's complicated to say the least.

------Original Message------
From: Ed O'Neal
Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer calibration
Sent: May 16, 2012 05:14

BT7 - Are there any good articles or documents on how to calibrate a smiths
speedometer?
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 09:08:52 +1000
To: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Problem BJ8
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Hey Jonas,
Good to hear you've narrowed it down. Although its a new tank, check that the
tank pickup isn't blocked.
Is it an SU pump?
Couple of issues here. There are SU  suck pumps, and SU push pumps. Suck pumps
are meant to be mounted in the engine bay. If you put a SU suck pump near the
tank, you'll only get a dribble at the carbs.
Check the model number if the pump you've got.
Second possibility is its a low rated Su pump, e.g off a mini or sprite. These
pumps deliver about half the volume of fuel a BJ8 spec pump delivers.
Other option is a blocked filter, or a kink in the fuel line (look around the
front crossmember where the fuel line makes 90 degree turns); or a perforated
diaphragm in the new pump.
Good luck!
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 16/05/2012, at 1:03 AM, Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net> wrote:

> Ignition problem resolved - the incorrect installation order of the
capacitor
> and ground lead in relation to the nylon bush on the points post was
causing
> the coil to arc out across its terminals.
>
> This problem was fixed over the weekend and a re-charge on the battery
> yesterday resolved the start issue but didn't resolve the conking out
issue.
>
> Another stall out yesterday that was immediately rectified by pulling the
> choke out on a hot engine (thus indicating that the fuel level in the bowls
> was low) indicated a fuel delivery problem, which was confirmed when I got
> home in emails from several listers (thanks!!!).  Pulled the line on the
lead
> carb and turned on the ignition, and the fuel pump is only providing a
> trickle, and nowhere near enough to run the car at anything other than
idle.
>
> The fuel pump is new, the tank is new and all the lines are new.  The pump
> sound and reaction at the front would appear to indicate a blockage on the
> "force end" of the system as opposed to the suction end the pump, but I
plan
> on pulling the lines and determining that tonight.
>
> Jonas Payne
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
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Look Technical page, Gauge section of my site for several articles.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ed O'Neal
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 5:15 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Speedometer calibration

BT7 - Are there any good articles or documents on how to calibrate a smiths
speedometer?
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From: Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 20:09:46 -0500
To: "Editorgary@aol.com" <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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For a 135 k car they should have more pictures available. For what I see the
engine bay needs a lt of work, increect colors and the dashboard and the white
seats...omg

Sent from my iPad

On 15/05/2012, at 5:51 p.m., Editorgary@aol.com wrote:

> Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin
> Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
>
> http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
>
> What do you think?
>
> G/
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] brakes
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Mike,

I don't know where you're looking, but a quick search at Moss turned up
this...

021-159 $20.95  WHEEL CYLINDER ASSEMBLY, Classic Gold
  BN1 from C.E.221536, BN2, BN4, BN6
Also check out AH Spares in England...

BRK197G<http://www.ahspares.co.uk/products/productdetail.aspx?GUID=f666b1db-6fd3-4488-ac63-b9047b350c0b>
WHEEL
CYLINDER-rear BN1.221536-BN6 $69.44 40
BRK197<http://www.ahspares.co.uk/products/productdetail.aspx?GUID=cc2acfbb-7848-4ad4-8432-eb2a439af6dc>
WHEEL
CYLINDER-rear BN1.221536-BN6 $40.92 40
Curt

On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 8:41 AM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722@comcast.net>wrote:

> After a lot of work tracing a leak at my rear wheel brakes on my 100M, I
> have
> narrowed it down to the wheel cylinder itself.  It's been so long since I
> worked on this car, I'm not up to date on where to buy parts.  I did look
> at
> Moss, but couldn't find it.  Any suggestions?  Also, plan to buy some nuts
> for
> the hub attach, if I can find them.
>
> TIA
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
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"7 available / 8 sold 
<http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBidsLogin&_trksid=p4340.l2564&rt=nc&item=300582621710>"

On 5/15/2012 3:24 PM, Ron Mitchell wrote:
> If you can't live without it you can Buy It Now on ebay for $24.95 + $7.30
> shipping.  Here is the link.

Kinda like yer link Ron, "dat don't work" <VBG> ! !
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Gary,

Wow, where to start.

I notice they say nothing about a complete restoration since there probably
wasn't one done .  Other than the flashy finned valve cover, missing its
original knurled knobs and oil filler cap, the rest of the engine looks
rather tatty.  The interior is an abortion, carpet instead of Armacord,
incorrect door panels, and those seats are tacky.  Incorrect chrome
headlight rims red painted brake drums and I'm sure the list goes on.  It
needs a complete and proper restoration to justify that price.

Just my humble opinion.

Curt

On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 3:51 PM, <Editorgary@aol.com> wrote:

> Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin
> Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
>
> http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
>
> What do you think?
>
> G/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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AH4H?
http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/

Gergo

2012/5/15 Mike Sinclair <phoenix722@comcast.net>

> After a lot of work tracing a leak at my rear wheel brakes on my 100M, I
> have
> narrowed it down to the wheel cylinder itself.  It's been so long since I
> worked on this car, I'm not up to date on where to buy parts.  I did look
> at
> Moss, but couldn't find it.  Any suggestions?  Also, plan to buy some nuts
> for
> the hub attach, if I can find them.
>
> TIA
> Mike
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Looks like serious door gap issues on passenger side (why no photos of driver's side?).  Inaccurate '100S' -style paint 
scheme.  Do not care for the red drums ('redrum ... redrum ... redrum ...').  Rubber 'cold side' heater hose (for $135K 
I'd expect copper tubing).

I think I'd want to see more than a BMIHT cert these days.


Bob



On 5/15/2012 6:09 PM, Jose Vicente Vargas wrote:
> For a 135 k car they should have more pictures available. For what I see the
> engine bay needs a lt of work, increect colors and the dashboard and the white
> seats...omg
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On 15/05/2012, at 5:51 p.m., Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin
>> Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
>>
>> http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
>>
>> What do you think?
>>
>> G/
>>
>>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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Agree that much is not correct and that's what can be seen in only a handful of general pics. Makes you question everything else. Definitely would walk away from this one, or maybe even run. Disagree with the the comment that a properly restored factory M would be $135K, a decent older restoration sold at RM for $162K in Jan. 2012, and another private sale of a nicer factory M just this month is reported at approximately $175K. 
Joel 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" <cnaarndt@gmail.com> 
To: Editorgary@aol.com 
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 5:41:40 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale 

Gary, 

Wow, where to start. 

I notice they say nothing about a complete restoration since there probably 
wasn't one done . Other than the flashy finned valve cover, missing its 
original knurled knobs and oil filler cap, the rest of the engine looks 
rather tatty. The interior is an abortion, carpet instead of Armacord, 
incorrect door panels, and those seats are tacky. Incorrect chrome 
headlight rims red painted brake drums and I'm sure the list goes on. It 
needs a complete and proper restoration to justify that price. 

Just my humble opinion. 

Curt 

On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 3:51 PM, <Editorgary@aol.com> wrote: 

> Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin 
> Healey 100-M " they have for sale. 
> 
> http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151 
> 
> What do you think? 
> 
> G/ 
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Rule 1 - Never by a classic car from a dealer, unless you enjoy overpaying.

I just don't get the prices asked for 100M's and this is a poor example.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 1:41 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>wrote:

> Gary,
>
> Wow, where to start.
>
> I notice they say nothing about a complete restoration since there probably
> wasn't one done .  Other than the flashy finned valve cover, missing its
> original knurled knobs and oil filler cap, the rest of the engine looks
> rather tatty.  The interior is an abortion, carpet instead of Armacord,
> incorrect door panels, and those seats are tacky.  Incorrect chrome
> headlight rims red painted brake drums and I'm sure the list goes on.  It
> needs a complete and proper restoration to justify that price.
>
> Just my humble opinion.
>
> Curt
>
> On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 3:51 PM, <Editorgary@aol.com> wrote:
>
> > Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin
> > Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
> >
> > http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
> >
> > What do you think?
> >
> > G/
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> >
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> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
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From: Charlie Vaselaar <cvaselaar@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Steering Wheel Boss - Fit
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I recently purchased a steering wheel boss from Moss for mounting my new Moto-Lita steering wheel in my '66 BJ8..

It fits OK except for a noticeable gap (1/8") between the turn signal / horn assembly and the steering wheel trim ring.  When secured by the three grub screws, I can see that the signal / horn assembly is fully seated on the machined mounting surface inside the boss.

Has anyone else had a similar problem when installing a new steering wheel?  What was your solution?

Thanks,

Charlie Vaselaar
1966 BJ8
Houston, TX
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Is it really a real M? It seems to me the cold air box is missing.

Per

Editorgary@aol.com skrev 2012-05-16 00:51:
> Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin
> Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
>
> http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
>
> What do you think?
>
> G/
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AH4H North America distributor AutoFarm  http://www.autofarm.net
________________________________
From: Austin Healey pajtamuvek@gmail.com
AH4H?
http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/

Gergo

2012/5/15 Mike Sinclair
<phoenix722@comcast.net>

> I'm not up to date on where to buy parts.  I did
look
> at
> Moss, but couldn't find it.  Any suggestions?  Also, plan to buy
some nuts
> for
> the hub attach, if I can find them.
>
> TIA
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Joel

I don't doubt they have sold for that, particularly, at the overhyped RM
auctions. I just don't see how they are worth that when they are just  BN2
's with a few bolt on extras.


If I had 175K to spend on a car it  wouldn't be a 100M

Derek

On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 7:58 AM, <gardner5@comcast.net> wrote:

> Agree that much is not correct and that's what can be seen in only a
> handful of general pics. Makes you question everything else. Definitely
> would walk away from this one, or maybe even run. Disagree with the the
> comment that a properly restored factory M would be $135K, a decent older
> restoration sold at RM for $162K in Jan. 2012, and another private sale of
> a nicer factory M just this month is reported at approximately $175K.
> Joel
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
> To: Editorgary@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 5:41:40 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
>
> Gary,
>
> Wow, where to start.
>
> I notice they say nothing about a complete restoration since there probably
> wasn't one done . Other than the flashy finned valve cover, missing its
> original knurled knobs and oil filler cap, the rest of the engine looks
> rather tatty. The interior is an abortion, carpet instead of Armacord,
> incorrect door panels, and those seats are tacky. Incorrect chrome
> headlight rims red painted brake drums and I'm sure the list goes on. It
> needs a complete and proper restoration to justify that price.
>
> Just my humble opinion.
>
> Curt
>
> On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 3:51 PM, <Editorgary@aol.com> wrote:
>
> > Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin
> > Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
> >
> > http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
> >
> > What do you think?
> >
> > G/
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 22:59:40 +1000
To: Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Cc: "Editorgary@aol.com" <Editorgary@aol.com>,
	"healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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My take?
The "paper" and "documents" that make this an "M" are worth $120k
The metal and mechanical stuff is worth $15k. Or maybe it's $110K plus $25k
for the metal??
So if it was a BN2 with no "M" stuff - at $15k - $25k, we'd all be good??
Like the Lemans accident 100/S. or most other unrestored 100/Ms,
Investors in historic items are focussed  on provenance.
I.e. is it historically correct and can it proven to be? Of limited supply?
Check the price on Steiff teddy bears v any other teddy bear made around the
early 1910's or so.
It's all about limited production, and proveability. Hence works car prices,
100/S prices, and 100/M prices. It's the piece of paper that is the "value" -
not the metal.
That's the issue. The value is in the paper proof. Not the actual metal.
Get used to it.
Enthusiasts look at the metal. Investors look at the paper. Make sense??
I'm an enthusiast.
Me.
Chris
Best

Sent from my iPhone

On 16/05/2012, at 10:41 AM, "Curt/Nancy Arndt" <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> Wow, where to start.
>
> I notice they say nothing about a complete restoration since there probably
> wasn't one done .  Other than the flashy finned valve cover, missing its
> original knurled knobs and oil filler cap, the rest of the engine looks
> rather tatty.  The interior is an abortion, carpet instead of Armacord,
> incorrect door panels, and those seats are tacky.  Incorrect chrome
> headlight rims red painted brake drums and I'm sure the list goes on.  It
> needs a complete and proper restoration to justify that price.
>
> Just my humble opinion.
>
> Curt
>
> On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 3:51 PM, <Editorgary@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin
>> Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
>>
>> http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
>>
>> What do you think?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 16 09:26:00 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Anybody find any chassis numbers, etc.  for this car? If they want any
decent prices they're going to have to show a lot more detail. This thing is
being advertised like they know it's shortcomings and are very carefully NOT
showing them.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jose Vicente Vargas
Sent: May-15-12 9:10 PM
To: Editorgary@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale

For a 135 k car they should have more pictures available. For what I see the
engine bay needs a lt of work, increect colors and the dashboard and the
white seats...omg

Sent from my iPad

On 15/05/2012, at 5:51 p.m., Editorgary@aol.com wrote:

> Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin 
> Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
>
> http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
>
> What do you think?
>
> G/
> _______________________________________________
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Hi Chris,

I see your point and agree on principle, but not on your value assigned.
The main reason is that documented "Basket case" 100Ms in the U.S. are
currently going for around $50 to $60K.  Subtract the price of a similar
"Basket case" BN2 and you have the value.  In this I am assuming that you
then ship this basket of parts off to a handful of qualified Healey
specialists and have it restored CORRECTLY for anywhere from $100 to
$120K.  If you want it to Gold Concours level, expect to pay more.

What do I mean by "basket case"?  The car is completely dismantled, in
boxes of parts, mostly complete but may be missing some important parts.
It will need a complete restoration on all components and substantial body
work.  The amount of body work and missing parts (100M specific parts) may
determine the final cost.

Cheers,

Curt

On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 5:59 AM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>wrote:

> My take?
> The "paper" and "documents" that make this an "M" are worth $120k
> The metal and mechanical stuff is worth $15k. Or maybe it's $110K plus
> $25k for the metal??
> So if it was a BN2 with no "M" stuff - at $15k - $25k, we'd all be good??
> Like the Lemans accident 100/S. or most other unrestored 100/Ms,
> Investors in historic items are focussed  on provenance.
> I.e. is it historically correct and can it proven to be? Of limited supply?
> Check the price on Steiff teddy bears v any other teddy bear made around
> the early 1910's or so.
> It's all about limited production, and proveability. Hence works car
> prices, 100/S prices, and 100/M prices. It's the piece of paper that is the
> "value" - not the metal.
> That's the issue. The value is in the paper proof. Not the actual metal.
> Get used to it.
> Enthusiasts look at the metal. Investors look at the paper. Make sense??
> I'm an enthusiast.
> Me.
> Chris
> Best
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 16/05/2012, at 10:41 AM, "Curt/Nancy Arndt" <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Gary,
> >
> > Wow, where to start.
> >
> > I notice they say nothing about a complete restoration since there
> probably
> > wasn't one done .  Other than the flashy finned valve cover, missing its
> > original knurled knobs and oil filler cap, the rest of the engine looks
> > rather tatty.  The interior is an abortion, carpet instead of Armacord,
> > incorrect door panels, and those seats are tacky.  Incorrect chrome
> > headlight rims red painted brake drums and I'm sure the list goes on.  It
> > needs a complete and proper restoration to justify that price.
> >
> > Just my humble opinion.
> >
> > Curt
> >
> > On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 3:51 PM, <Editorgary@aol.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin
> >> Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
> >>
> >> http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
> >>
> >> What do you think?
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re: " If I had 175K to spend on a car it wouldn't be a 100M " 


Also, it's pretty dang silly to spend $35K on a (barely) decent BJ8 when you can get a new, nicely-appointed Honda Accord--with enough left over for a few pairs of Birkenstocks and a couple fanny packs--for that. 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Joel 

I don't doubt they have sold for that, particularly, at the overhyped RM 
auctions. I just don't see how they are worth that when they are just BN2 
's with a few bolt on extras. 


If I had 175K to spend on a car it wouldn't be a 100M 

Derek 
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Cc: Editorgary@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Sarcasm duly noted. 


I can just imagine being retired and sitting in a rocking chair out on the porch telling my grand kids about how I used to own a Honda Accord and the driving pleasure, stories, and experiences it provided. 


What makes these cars valuable is that there is a fixed number and there are no more. The more rare, the more valuable. Hence the value gap between a straight forward BN2 and a factory 100M. These are old cars and they are-what-they-are, which is a whole lot of fun with a potential financial upside. Can't remember the last time I jumped in my Microsoft stock and enjoyed a Sunday afternoon in the sun. Anyways to each his own. 


Joel 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> 
To: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job@gmail.com> 
Cc: Editorgary@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net, gardner5@comcast.net 
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 7:43:23 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale 


re: "If I had 175K to spend on a car it wouldn't be a 100M" 


Also, it's pretty dang silly to spend $35K on a (barely) decent BJ8 when you can get a new, nicely-appointed Honda Accord--with enough left over for a few pairs of Birkenstocks and a couple fanny packs--for that. 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Joel 

I don't doubt they have sold for that, particularly, at the overhyped RM 
auctions. I just don't see how they are worth that when they are just BN2 
's with a few bolt on extras. 


If I had 175K to spend on a car it wouldn't be a 100M 

Derek 
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From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Doesn't look like this car is marketed to "enthusiasts" but is designed to
catch the eye of an "investor" or someone who just wants to add another bauble
to their collection.  OTOH, it's way cheaper than the $185k Nazi SS officer's
uniform he has for sale:
http://www.palmbeachclassics.com/luxurydetails.php?id=16

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 5/16/12, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
To: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Cc: "Editorgary@aol.com" <Editorgary@aol.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 16, 2012, 8:59 AM

My take?
The "paper" and "documents" that make this an "M" are worth $120k
The metal and mechanical stuff is worth $15k. Or maybe it's $110K plus $25k
for the metal??
So if it was a BN2 with no "M" stuff - at $15k - $25k, we'd all be good??
Like the Lemans accident 100/S. or most other unrestored 100/Ms,
Investors in historic items are focussed  on provenance.
I.e. is it historically correct and can it proven to be? Of limited supply?
Check the price on Steiff teddy bears v any other teddy bear made around the
early 1910's or so.
It's all about limited production, and proveability. Hence works car prices,
100/S prices, and 100/M prices. It's the piece of paper that is the "value" -
not the metal.
That's the issue. The value is in the paper proof. Not the actual metal.
Get used to it.
Enthusiasts look at the metal. Investors look at the paper. Make sense??
I'm an enthusiast.
Me.
Chris
Best

Sent from my iPhone

On 16/05/2012, at 10:41 AM, "Curt/Nancy Arndt" <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> Wow, where to start.
>
> I notice they say nothing about a complete restoration since there probably
> wasn't one done .  Other than the flashy finned valve cover, missing its
> original knurled knobs and oil filler cap, the rest of the engine looks
> rather tatty.  The interior is an abortion, carpet instead of Armacord,
> incorrect door panels, and those seats are tacky.  Incorrect chrome
> headlight rims red painted brake drums and I'm sure the list goes on.  It
> needs a complete and proper restoration to justify that price.
>
> Just my humble opinion.
>
> Curt
>
> On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 3:51 PM, <Editorgary@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin
>> Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
>>
>> http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
>>
>> What do you think?
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Re my editorial in the last issue of Austin-Healey Magazine. There is a 
group of high-end enthusiast/investors who love buying the best stuff so they 
can show it off to their friends and brag about it. Clearly, Vallon thinks 
he's got something that will appeal to that crowd. Unfortunately, anyone with 
that much money usually has a good collection adviser who will look at this 
one, maybe ask a few Healey specialists for their opinions, and then advise 
his client strongly not to touch this. My perception of Vallon is that he 
doesn't always do his homework, but then touts stuff as if it was the real 
thing.

BTW, did anyone notice that this car doesn't even have a cold air box? I'd 
be willing to bet that most of the real 100M stuff is long since gone from 
this car, and that the numbers may not even match. Love to get a chance to 
look underneath one of the cockpit surround rails to see what numbers are 
actually under there.

G.
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Whos talking about Honda Accords?. You can get a nice classic Ferrari 330
for that money or a race prepped E-type, or 2 full blown race prepped
3000s.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 2:11 PM, Rich Chrysler
<richchrysler@quickclic.net>wrote:

> Anybody find any chassis numbers, etc.  for this car? If they want any
> decent prices they're going to have to show a lot more detail. This thing
> is
> being advertised like they know it's shortcomings and are very carefully
> NOT
> showing them.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Jose Vicente Vargas
> Sent: May-15-12 9:10 PM
> To: Editorgary@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
>
> For a 135 k car they should have more pictures available. For what I see
> the
> engine bay needs a lt of work, increect colors and the dashboard and the
> white seats...omg
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On 15/05/2012, at 5:51 p.m., Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin
> > Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
> >
> > http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
> >
> > What do you think?
> >
> > G/
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> > donation  $12.75
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Chris

I agree it is the provenance, but Im just asking what is so special about
100Ms. The 100S is a different kettle of fish because it is a completely
different car to the 100s and 100M.

If its just rarity and provenance then a Tri-Carb BN7 should be worth 175K
because its rarer than a 100M.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 5:25 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Whos talking about Honda Accords?. You can get a nice classic Ferrari 330
> for that money or a race prepped E-type, or 2 full blown race prepped
> 3000s.
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
>
> On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 2:11 PM, Rich Chrysler <richchrysler@quickclic.net
> > wrote:
>
>> Anybody find any chassis numbers, etc.  for this car? If they want any
>> decent prices they're going to have to show a lot more detail. This thing
>> is
>> being advertised like they know it's shortcomings and are very carefully
>> NOT
>> showing them.
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
>> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Jose Vicente Vargas
>> Sent: May-15-12 9:10 PM
>> To: Editorgary@aol.com
>> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
>>
>> For a 135 k car they should have more pictures available. For what I see
>> the
>> engine bay needs a lt of work, increect colors and the dashboard and the
>> white seats...omg
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On 15/05/2012, at 5:51 p.m., Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> > Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a " Austin
>> > Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
>> >
>> > http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
>> >
>> > What do you think?
>> >
>> > G/
>> > _______________________________________________
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Doesn't look like this car is marketed to "enthusiasts" but is designed to
catch the eye of an "investor" or someone who just wants to add another bauble
to their collection.  OTOH, it's way cheaper than the $185k Nazi SS officer's
uniform he has for sale:
http://www.palmbeachclassics.com/luxurydetails.php?id=16

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 5/16/12, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com> wrote:

That's the issue. The value is in the paper proof. Not the actual metal.
Get used to it.
Enthusiasts look at the metal. Investors look at the paper. Make sense??
I'm an enthusiast.
Me.
Chris
Best
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so course language, but allowed on British TV


Mrs. Browns dog is very old and unwell. The kids are trying to figure*  *out
a way to tell her that its time to put the dog down.

Click to watch.

"http://www.youtube.com/embed/U430rpfjIIQ"




--
Ira Erbs
IT CONSULTANT
Portland, OR

 We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein
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If I had 175K I could get an excellent early and an excellent late 6cylinder
Healey. Which are proper cars compared to the 4cylinders with all their
shortcomings. Then I have two different cars with different characters but
their engines have the right sound. I would never go for a 100M. I own a 100
and a 3000 and know what I am talking about.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bob Spidell
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 16. Mai 2012 16:43
An: Derek Job
Cc: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale

re: " If I had 175K to spend on a car it wouldn't be a 100M "


Also, it's pretty dang silly to spend $35K on a (barely) decent BJ8 when you
can get a new, nicely-appointed Honda Accord--with enough left over for a few
pairs of Birkenstocks and a couple fanny packs--for that.


Bob


--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

----- Original Message -----


Joel

I don't doubt they have sold for that, particularly, at the overhyped RM
auctions. I just don't see how they are worth that when they are just BN2 's
with a few bolt on extras.


If I had 175K to spend on a car it wouldn't be a 100M

Derek
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From: <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
To: <derek.c.job@gmail.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 21:02:10 +0200
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Hi Derek,
There is nothing special about 100Ms. Its like Alpina BMWs or AMG Mercedes`s.
They are ranged in value a bit higher than the stock ones. But are they
better??
I own a 100 BN1. It's the first and last 100 I have bought. I always prefer
the ride and sound of a 6cylinder than these tractor 4cylinders ;-).
Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Derek Job
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 16. Mai 2012 18:29
An: Rich Chrysler
Cc: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale

Chris

I agree it is the provenance, but Im just asking what is so special about
100Ms. The 100S is a different kettle of fish because it is a completely
different car to the 100s and 100M.

If its just rarity and provenance then a Tri-Carb BN7 should be worth 175K
because its rarer than a 100M.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 5:25 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Whos talking about Honda Accords?. You can get a nice classic Ferrari
> 330 for that money or a race prepped E-type, or 2 full blown race
> prepped 3000s.
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
>
> On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 2:11 PM, Rich Chrysler
> <richchrysler@quickclic.net
> > wrote:
>
>> Anybody find any chassis numbers, etc.  for this car? If they want
>> any decent prices they're going to have to show a lot more detail.
>> This thing is being advertised like they know it's shortcomings and
>> are very carefully NOT showing them.
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
>> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Jose Vicente Vargas
>> Sent: May-15-12 9:10 PM
>> To: Editorgary@aol.com
>> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
>>
>> For a 135 k car they should have more pictures available. For what I
>> see the engine bay needs a lt of work, increect colors and the
>> dashboard and the white seats...omg
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On 15/05/2012, at 5:51 p.m., Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> > Got a reference today from "Palm Beach Classics, Inc." for a "
>> > Austin Healey 100-M " they have for sale.
>> >
>> > http://palmbeachclassics.com/autodetails.php?id=151
>> >
>> > What do you think?
>> >
>> > G/
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re: "BTW, did anyone notice that this car doesn't even have a cold air box?" 

Don't think that's too uncommon for Ms--the CAB is a PITA and I suspect many got removed/replaced/trashed before the cars became more valuable. Our M--verified by BMIHT, the Registry and the person with the definitive list of M data--didn't have a CAB when we bought it. 

Funny how CABs are all the rage now, when they've been around for 60 or so years. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Re my editorial in the last issue of Austin-Healey Magazine. There is a 
group of high-end enthusiast/investors who love buying the best stuff so they 
can show it off to their friends and brag about it. Clearly, Vallon thinks 
he's got something that will appeal to that crowd. Unfortunately, anyone with 
that much money usually has a good collection adviser who will look at this 
one, maybe ask a few Healey specialists for their opinions, and then advise 
his client strongly not to touch this. My perception of Vallon is that he 
doesn't always do his homework, but then touts stuff as if it was the real 
thing. 

BTW, did anyone notice that this car doesn't even have a cold air box? I'd 
be willing to bet that most of the real 100M stuff is long since gone from 
this car, and that the numbers may not even match. Love to get a chance to 
look underneath one of the cockpit surround rails to see what numbers are 
actually under there. 

G. 
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What would you spend it on?

Ron Mitchell
BN7
BN6
________________________________
 From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To:
gardner5@comcast.net 
Cc: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Wednesday, May 16, 2012 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
 
Joel
I don't doubt they have sold for that, particularly, at the overhyped RM
auctions. I just don't see how they are worth that when they are just  BN2
's
with a few bolt on extras.


If I had 175K to spend on a car it  wouldn't be a
100M

Derek
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List, 



With the 100-6 gone, I have some left over parts that I accumulated while it was here. I can deliver to Import Carlisle this weekend if that works for you. I'm open to any reasonable offer and to almost any unreasonable offer. Healey stuff takes up a lot of space! 



1. 100-6/3000 crankshaft, magnafluxed (no cracks) and cut .010 

2. Set of main and rod bearings for above crank 

3. Pair of 3000 side curtains 

4. cylinder head, early 100-6 with integral intake manifold, cleaned and magnafluxed: no cracks 

5. cylinder head, 3000, small crack professionally repaired, cleaned and machine shop checked 

6. bumper, a.k.a. "facebar", OEM rechromed, never mounted, can't recall if it's front of rear. my cost $400. offer? 

7. new OEM fuel gauge 

8. side shift overdrive transmission with adaptor, but less overdrive. $350 



Thanks, 



Ed Woods 
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Derek, 

You're using logic and reason where they don't apply. The cars are 'worth' what someone is willing to pay for them; same as art, houses, property, guns, antiques, boats, airplanes, etc. Simple as that. 

Also, maybe the fact the cars were modified at the DMHMC plant adds some cachet. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Chris 

I agree it is the provenance, but Im just asking what is so special about 
100Ms. The 100S is a different kettle of fish because it is a completely 
different car to the 100s and 100M. 

If its just rarity and provenance then a Tri-Carb BN7 should be worth 175K 
because its rarer than a 100M. 

Derek 
www.healeysix.net 
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Hi Derek,
There is nothing special about 100Ms. Its like Alpina BMWs or AMG Mercedes`s.
They are ranged in value a bit higher than the stock ones. But are they
better??
I own a 100 BN1. It's the first and last 100 I buy. I always prefer the ride
and sound of a 6cylinder than these tractor
4cylinders ;-).
Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany
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This 100M discussion is fascinating reflecting the changing attitudes toward
Healeys and 100Ms in particular. I come from the perspective of a long time
owner. My father bought my 100M new in 1956. He gave it to me in 1960. I got
about 10 traffic tickets in it in 2 years. To me the 100M was a lightly
hot-rodded 100, and after the unobtainiable100S the best handling, and best
driving, sportiest Healey ever; yes, IMHO, even better than the tri-carb
BN7. When I grew up with the 100M it was considered rather ordinary among
the top tier girl catching cars a high-school kid could drive. The corvettes
were higher status, as were GTO's and Chevelles among the auto shop class
crowd. The status winner, at least for me, was the Dentist's son who drove a
300SL. My father's Chevy 409 with a 3-speed stick on the column was rarer
and farther away from a standard Chevy than the 100M was from a 100. So to
me the 100M was just another car to hot rod. And I did. And yes, I threw
away the factory tools and roll because they were poorly made and too heavy
to carry in the boot. The idea that a 100M would become a semi-sacred object
was inconceivable to me. The smart guys were installing Ford 289's inspired
by Caroll Shelby's work with the AC chassis. The dumber ones turned them
into drag strip cars. I don't remember any purists then, you either modified
or didn't care enough to modify.

So I have a quandary. Restore my 100M to factory original, an original I
then and now believe can be much improved upon so the market and the Healey
community will treat the result with respect. Or 'improve' my 100M to my
liking at the risk of the Healey community finding a bugler, a snare
drummer, and a parade ground to hold my drummed out of the corp ceremony?
Logic and good sense as in $'s says restore it to factory original warts and
all. Chris put it best for me, the value is in the paper, not the metal.
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Bob

It's just my opinion but I think people are paying those prices because
they don't know what they are doing. How many real Healey enthusiasts would
pay 175K for a 100M. None in my opinion. There is nothing special about the
cars, yes there are only 600 or so but as I said , there are only 350 BN7
Tri-Carbs. This market has been hyped up by various American auction houses
and dealers. Now if you own a 100M, good for you, I like those cars, but if
I had one I'd sell it for 175K. Reminds me a bit of the mining industry. if
ever we discovered a gold deposit we would sell it, because people would
pay way over the odds for it and we could better invest the funds elsewhere.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 7:10 PM, <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com> wrote:

> If I had 175K I could get an excellent early and an excellent late
> 6cylinder
> Healey. Which are proper cars compared to the 4cylinders with all their
> shortcomings. Then I have two different cars with different characters but
> their engines have the right sound. I would never go for a 100M. I own a
> 100
> and a 3000 and know what I am talking about.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> Im
> Auftrag von Bob Spidell
> Gesendet: Mittwoch, 16. Mai 2012 16:43
> An: Derek Job
> Cc: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
>
> re: " If I had 175K to spend on a car it wouldn't be a 100M "
>
>
> Also, it's pretty dang silly to spend $35K on a (barely) decent BJ8 when
> you
> can get a new, nicely-appointed Honda Accord--with enough left over for a
> few
> pairs of Birkenstocks and a couple fanny packs--for that.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> Joel
>
> I don't doubt they have sold for that, particularly, at the overhyped RM
> auctions. I just don't see how they are worth that when they are just BN2
> 's
> with a few bolt on extras.
>
>
> If I had 175K to spend on a car it wouldn't be a 100M
>
> Derek
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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Funny video, caution rated R because of nudity.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVHLrX9bxbU
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Subject: [Healeys] rare Aston Martin - warning no Healey content
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Saw an Aston Martin DB2r at the body shop today. The only one 
surviving of two made. This car is similar but the one at the shop 
was a factory race car with two leather hood straps and dual fuel 
filler caps leading to a large tank in the back. It even had a third 
brake light! Beautiful car!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXlwc5V6xkU

John
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Subject: [Healeys] Different from 100M but kewl.........
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and shame "this" Dealer has it ! !

-------- Original Message --------

http://www.hymanltd.com/search/details.asp?stockno=4130&suffix=28&recordcount=32

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Build  it anyway you want. It's your car. If you want to turn it into an
investment, restore it, if you want to build it so you can enjoy it your
way, go for it. I bought my car in the mid 70s for $500.00. I've made some
improvements that upset some (smitty 5 speed, HD8 carbs)
It's their issue, not mine.
Donald Healey was just happy to see his cars on the road.
Ira Erbs
1960 BT7

On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 1:38 PM, Harlan Polk <happolk@cox.net> wrote:

> This 100M discussion is fascinating reflecting the changing attitudes
> toward
> Healeys and 100Ms in particular. I come from the perspective of a long time
> owner. My father bought my 100M new in 1956. He gave it to me in 1960. I
> got
> about 10 traffic tickets in it in 2 years. To me the 100M was a lightly
> hot-rodded 100, and after the unobtainiable100S the best handling, and best
> driving, sportiest Healey ever; yes, IMHO, even better than the tri-carb
> BN7. When I grew up with the 100M it was considered rather ordinary among
> the top tier girl catching cars a high-school kid could drive. The
> corvettes
> were higher status, as were GTO's and Chevelles among the auto shop class
> crowd. The status winner, at least for me, was the Dentist's son who drove
> a
> 300SL. My father's Chevy 409 with a 3-speed stick on the column was rarer
> and farther away from a standard Chevy than the 100M was from a 100. So to
> me the 100M was just another car to hot rod. And I did. And yes, I threw
> away the factory tools and roll because they were poorly made and too heavy
> to carry in the boot. The idea that a 100M would become a semi-sacred
> object
> was inconceivable to me. The smart guys were installing Ford 289's inspired
> by Caroll Shelby's work with the AC chassis. The dumber ones turned them
> into drag strip cars. I don't remember any purists then, you either
> modified
> or didn't care enough to modify.
>
> So I have a quandary. Restore my 100M to factory original, an original I
> then and now believe can be much improved upon so the market and the Healey
> community will treat the result with respect. Or 'improve' my 100M to my
> liking at the risk of the Healey community finding a bugler, a snare
> drummer, and a parade ground to hold my drummed out of the corp ceremony?
> Logic and good sense as in $'s says restore it to factory original warts
> and
> all. Chris put it best for me, the value is in the paper, not the metal.
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>


-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 16 20:29:19 2012
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From: "Rich Chrysler" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, <Editorgary@aol.com>
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Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 20:20:00 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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I would suggest that a lot of M's and Le Mans kit Hundreds often had the
cold air box removed and air filters fitted if the owner planned to use the
car for the purpose of driving and enjoying the car (imagine that). The idea
of running unfiltered air right into the engine via air trunking and the
cold air box over long term use is something I wouldn't want to do.

Rich


re: "BTW, did anyone notice that this car doesn't even have a cold air box?"


Don't think that's too uncommon for Ms--the CAB is a PITA and I suspect many
got removed/replaced/trashed before the cars became more valuable. Our
M--verified by BMIHT, the Registry and the person with the definitive list
of M data--didn't have a CAB when we bought it. 

Funny how CABs are all the rage now, when they've been around for 60 or so
years. 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 16 22:10:33 2012
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Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 09:13:21 +0800
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From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] rare Aston Martin - warning no Healey content
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This video is of a very early DB2 before they introduced the
hatchback.  Actually the DB2/4 was the very first production car in
the world with a hatchback.  The hatchback was put there so that the
owner had easy access to put his shotguns before motoring from London
to his country estate to do some trap-pheasant hunting.

I actually always preferred the 2, 2/4 and Mk III to the later DB
4/5/6 because the DB2 chassis was a smaller car.... maybe not as good
for handling but more in line with the original idea to put a very big
engine in a small car.  Kind of what the original Scaglietti was
about.  Of course the modern Scaglietti is anything but small.

Can anyone tell me (without looking it up on the internet) who
designed the AM engine?

Alan

On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 5:38 AM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Saw an Aston Martin DB2r at the body shop today. The only one surviving of
> two made. This car is similar but the one at the shop was a factory race car
> with two leather hood straps and dual fuel filler caps leading to a large
> tank in the back. It even had a third brake light! Beautiful car!
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXlwc5V6xkU
>
> John
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 16 22:11:45 2012
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To: Just Brits Shop <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Different from 100M but kewl.........
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 that's pretty awesome!!

On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 5:55 AM, " Just Brits " Shop <shop@justbrits.com> wrote:
> and shame "this" Dealer has it ! !
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
> http://www.hymanltd.com/search/details.asp?stockno=4130&suffix=28&recordcount=32
>
> Ed
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Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 20:27:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
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I actually have an Aston-Martin DB2 story.  In 1969 I checked out a DB2 for
sale in Brookline, MA for $1,800.  The original motor was gone and had been
replaced with a Corvette 327.  (I've always been a little nuts for LBCs with
V8s).  I told the seller I'd take it, but he had given first refusal to a bud
of his.  Supposedly had some rallying history and had a huge factory altimeter
in the dash.  The seller's friend took the car and I didn't get it.  Always
wondered where it went.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Wed, 5/16/12, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] rare Aston Martin - warning no Healey content
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, May 16, 2012, 5:38 PM

Saw an Aston Martin DB2r at the body shop today. The only one surviving of two
made. This car is similar but the one at the shop was a factory race car with
two leather hood straps and dual fuel filler caps leading to a large tank in
the back. It even had a third brake light! Beautiful car!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXlwc5V6xkU

John
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<< ....that's pretty awesome!!>>

AGREED, Alan ! !   Neat also in that she IS a George Barris ride <G> ! ! !
Wish I had a few bucks <G <G> ! !

On Dave at nite a few minutes ago, Betty White [GOTTA LOVE her<VBG>] 
Dave showed of Betty
[what is now called 'roasting'<G>] on the dais seated next to the 
podium.  Guess who the M.C.
was <G> ?!?!?

Me
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"PG", John ! ! !   "Might" even be just "G" ! ? !

Anon<G>
================================================================
On 5/16/2012 4:28 PM, john spaur wrote:
> Funny video, caution rated R because of nudity. 
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I went along to a classic car rally here in Luxembourg today and saw a BJ8
that had forward facing scoops on the side of the front guards in place of
rally vents. Spoke to the owner who carefully explained that BMC had got it
wrong at the time and all Healey racers since had "stupidly" followed suit.
His theory was the the scoops and front grill combine to create an area of
high pressure in the engine bay that "force feeds" the engine " just like a
supercharger". I think maybe has has sniffed a few to many exhaust fumes. Nice
day out though with some interesting cars including a very original and
obviously much used Bugatti racer,
cheers
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Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 09:05:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: healeys List <healeys@autox.team.net>, Pieter and Linda
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One Healey scoop idea that I always liked was done when one of the regular
auto-xers in our sports car club had an accident that damaged the left front
fender and shroud of his Healey.  When repairs were done, sheet metal was
placed over the valley between the fender and the hood.  The area near the
carbs in the shroud was cut out, thereby creating a ram effect to the carbs. 
The mod was very professionally done and looked very good.  Don't know how
much it helped performance, but that Healey always did quite well in the
auto-x.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Thu, 5/17/12, Pieter and Linda <pieters@pt.lu> wrote:

From: Pieter and Linda <pieters@pt.lu>
Subject: [Healeys] scoops not vents
To: "healeys List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, May 17, 2012, 9:06 AM

I went along to a classic car rally here in Luxembourg today and saw a BJ8
that had forward facing scoops on the side of the front guards in place of
rally vents. Spoke to the owner who carefully explained that BMC had got it
wrong at the time and all Healey racers since had "stupidly" followed suit.
His theory was the the scoops and front grill combine to create an area of
high pressure in the engine bay that "force feeds" the engine " just like a
supercharger". I think maybe has has sniffed a few to many exhaust fumes.
Nice
day out though with some interesting cars including a very original and
obviously much used Bugatti racer,
cheers
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<<  On 5/17/2012 8:06 AM, Pieter and Linda wrote:
> I think maybe has has sniffed a few to many exhaust fumes.   >>
Nah, Pieter ! !  But I would REALLY like some of what he's on <G> ! ! !

HealeyRick
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Subject: [Healeys] Les Leston -
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Listers:

Alfred Lazarus Fingleston better known as Les Leston, passed away Sunday May
13th at the age of 91. He drove Grand Prix cars in the early 1950's and was
the co-driver for the Austin-Healey 100S (NOJ 393) entry at the 1955 LeMans
but did not get the opportunity to drive due to the accident. He later made
his name by selling steering wheels bearing his name, racing gloves, helmets
and fire-retardant racing suits.

Jean Caron
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Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Actually the DB2/4 was the very first production car in
> the world with a hatchback.

I'll see your DB2/4 and raise you a Kaiser Traveler (or Vagabond) as
the first production hatchback.

<http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/2010/01/01/hmn_buyers_guide1.html>

"Thus, it was innovative Kaiser that gets full credit for an automotive 
first with its Traveler and Vagabond hatchback sedans."

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 17 22:20:30 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Les Leston -
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I seem to recall sometime in the past having a pair of SU velocity
stacks bearing his name.

And I must confess.  When I first glanced at the message I though it
was about Les Nessman, the news guy in the WKRP sitcom.

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 18 02:05:35 2012
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I prefer the Darrin
http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/kaiser/darrin/1126463.html

On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 5:40 PM, Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net> wrote:

> Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
>> Actually the DB2/4 was the very first production car in
>> the world with a hatchback.
>>
>
> I'll see your DB2/4 and raise you a Kaiser Traveler (or Vagabond) as
> the first production hatchback.
>
> <http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/**stories/2010/01/01/hmn_buyers_**guide1.html<http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/2010/01/01/hmn_buyers_guide1.html>
> >
>
> "Thus, it was innovative Kaiser that gets full credit for an automotive
> first with its Traveler and Vagabond hatchback sedans."
>
> --
> Kent McLean
> '56 100 BN2
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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>


-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
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May He rest in peace!
I have a very heavy Les Leston badge on my garage-wall.

G

2012/5/18 Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>

> I seem to recall sometime in the past having a pair of SU velocity
> stacks bearing his name.
>
> And I must confess.  When I first glanced at the message I though it
> was about Les Nessman, the news guy in the WKRP sitcom.
>
> mjb.
>
> ______________________________**_________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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I think my point--at least part of it--got missed (maybe buried in too much sarcasm).

If you think someone paying close to $200K for a factory 100M is absurd, keep in mind that to many people--probably a 
large majority--spending any money (or time) at all on an old British 2 (or 2.5)-seater is absurd; cars are 4-wheeled 
appliances for getting groceries and taking the kids to soccer/football practice.    There are plenty of people who 
think you would be just plain silly to spend a penny on a 6-cyl Healey, so it's all relative.

I do agree that 100Ms may be in a bit of speculative bubble, though (it's been going on for several years, so may have 
some staying power).  More justified, IMO, in the bubble in old muscle cars, which have no appeal to me.

Bob



On 5/16/2012 2:08 PM, Derek Job wrote:
> Bob
>
> It's just my opinion but I think people are paying those prices because
> they don't know what they are doing. How many real Healey enthusiasts would
> pay 175K for a 100M. None in my opinion. There is nothing special about the
> cars, yes there are only 600 or so but as I said , there are only 350 BN7
> Tri-Carbs. This market has been hyped up by various American auction houses
> and dealers. Now if you own a 100M, good for you, I like those cars, but if
> I had one I'd sell it for 175K. Reminds me a bit of the mining industry. if
> ever we discovered a gold deposit we would sell it, because people would
> pay way over the odds for it and we could better invest the funds elsewhere.
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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Point taken Bob.

I should clarify my position as well. I hope I didn't appear to be down on
100Ms because I'm not, I absolutely love the cars. I just think, and it is
just my opinion, that the premium for factory Ms is much too high because,
unlike the S, they have relatively few modifications over a standard 100
plus the M package had been sold as a dealer option for 2 or 3 years before
the factory M arrived.

However if people are willing to pay these prices then that's great for the
100M owners.

cheers

Derek

On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 3:20 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> I think my point--at least part of it--got missed (maybe buried in too
> much sarcasm).
>
> If you think someone paying close to $200K for a factory 100M is absurd,
> keep in mind that to many people--probably a large majority--spending any
> money (or time) at all on an old British 2 (or 2.5)-seater is absurd; cars
> are 4-wheeled appliances for getting groceries and taking the kids to
> soccer/football practice.    There are plenty of people who think you would
> be just plain silly to spend a penny on a 6-cyl Healey, so it's all
> relative.
>
> I do agree that 100Ms may be in a bit of speculative bubble, though (it's
> been going on for several years, so may have some staying power).  More
> justified, IMO, in the bubble in old muscle cars, which have no appeal to
> me.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 5/16/2012 2:08 PM, Derek Job wrote:
>
>> Bob
>>
>> It's just my opinion but I think people are paying those prices because
>> they don't know what they are doing. How many real Healey enthusiasts
>> would
>> pay 175K for a 100M. None in my opinion. There is nothing special about
>> the
>> cars, yes there are only 600 or so but as I said , there are only 350 BN7
>> Tri-Carbs. This market has been hyped up by various American auction
>> houses
>> and dealers. Now if you own a 100M, good for you, I like those cars, but
>> if
>> I had one I'd sell it for 175K. Reminds me a bit of the mining industry.
>> if
>> ever we discovered a gold deposit we would sell it, because people would
>> pay way over the odds for it and we could better invest the funds
>> elsewhere.
>>
>> Derek
>> www.healeysix.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacement Steering Wheel Boss - Fit
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Hi Charlie,
I too just purchased a new hub adapter for an adjustable wheel (and Moto-Lita
14" wood wheel) from Moss. Parts arrived Monday.

I have not yet tried to install these in my 1966 BJ8 which currently has the
standard 16.5" plastic wheel.
I probably won't get to them until next week at the earliest and probably not
until after Conclave.

I was surprized to see the 2 main adapter components were in a black anodized
finish (- the last ones I saw were brightly plated!) and stamped "made in
China".  Were yours the same as mine?

Please copy me on anything you find out about your problem and I will keep you
posted as well on my progress.
Will I see you at Conclave?

Dave Murphy
Dearborn MI


> Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 20:24:51 -0500
> From: cvaselaar@earthlink.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Steering Wheel Boss - Fit
>
> I recently purchased a steering wheel boss from Moss for mounting my new
Moto-Lita steering wheel in my '66 BJ8..
>
> It fits OK except for a noticeable gap (1/8") between the turn signal / horn
assembly and the steering wheel trim ring. When secured by the three grub
screws, I can see that the signal / horn assembly is fully seated on the
machined mounting surface inside the boss.
>
> Has anyone else had a similar problem when installing a new steering wheel?
What was your solution?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Vaselaar
> 1966 BJ8
> Houston, TX> Healeys@autox.team.net
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From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at Sebring - 1963
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If you like period race photos, this is a must
see:  http://tinyurl.com/7td7sbn                      The '63 Sebring 12 hr is
documented with more than 1200 photos.  Here's one of the 54
FAC:  http://tinyurl.com/7x8ttdx  Enjoy.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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" I do agree that 100Ms may be in a bit of speculative bubble, though (it's 
been going on for several years, so may have some staying power).  More 
justified, IMO, in the bubble in old muscle cars, which have no appeal to 
me.

 Bob"

The really crazy bubble is the bubble in "bubble" or microcars, like the 
Isettas and Mescheschmitts and such, which bring 20 or 30K or more at 
auction restored these days.

Greg
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 19 00:16:36 2012
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Spent some time working on the forums.  Basic functionality is back.
You can look at them, log in and post.  Not yet sure if new registrations
work, I'll test that soon.

The incentive for getting this done was pretty selfish.  I wanted to tell
folks about an incident yesterday at work:

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=129


One minor nit is that for some reason this post doesn't show up
when you click on 'View active topics' but it does show up when you
click on 'View new posts'  Oh well, I'm sure other problems will crop
up as folks make use of it.

mjb.
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Subject: [Healeys] tensioner oil supply
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The new Rolon (Country brand) tensioner has a tiny oil supply hole 
that I presume provides hydraulic oil pressure to the spring loaded 
part that presses against the timing chain. The oil supply hole is 
much smaller than the original part.

Does the tensioner work on hydraulic and spring pressure?

Should the oil supply hole be enlarged to match the original?

Thank you,
John Spaur
BT7
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The workshop manual says to put the oil thrower on the crankshaft 
with the "concave side towards the front of the engine".

Should the concave side face the front plate or should it face the 
timing cover?

Dumb me.

John
BT7
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys at Sebring - 1963
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Fantastic photos Rick. Haven't seen all 1200 yet! Great pics of the FAC
cars plus a brilliant one of Graham Hill driving a Ferrari.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Sat, May 19, 2012 at 4:10 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> If you like period race photos, this is a must
> see:  http://tinyurl.com/7td7sbn                      The '63 Sebring 12
> hr is
> documented with more than 1200 photos.  Here's one of the 54
> FAC:  http://tinyurl.com/7x8ttdx  Enjoy.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacement Steering Wheel Boss - Fit
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Moto Lita make them in black, like yours and in brushed aluminium. It's the
buyers choice but maybe Moss don't specify that.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 5:20 PM, Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>wrote:

> Hi Charlie,
> I too just purchased a new hub adapter for an adjustable wheel (and
> Moto-Lita
> 14" wood wheel) from Moss. Parts arrived Monday.
>
> I have not yet tried to install these in my 1966 BJ8 which currently has
> the
> standard 16.5" plastic wheel.
> I probably won't get to them until next week at the earliest and probably
> not
> until after Conclave.
>
> I was surprized to see the 2 main adapter components were in a black
> anodized
> finish (- the last ones I saw were brightly plated!) and stamped "made in
> China".  Were yours the same as mine?
>
> Please copy me on anything you find out about your problem and I will keep
> you
> posted as well on my progress.
> Will I see you at Conclave?
>
> Dave Murphy
> Dearborn MI
>
>
> > Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 20:24:51 -0500
> > From: cvaselaar@earthlink.net
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Steering Wheel Boss - Fit
> >
> > I recently purchased a steering wheel boss from Moss for mounting my new
> Moto-Lita steering wheel in my '66 BJ8..
> >
> > It fits OK except for a noticeable gap (1/8") between the turn signal /
> horn
> assembly and the steering wheel trim ring. When secured by the three grub
> screws, I can see that the signal / horn assembly is fully seated on the
> machined mounting surface inside the boss.
> >
> > Has anyone else had a similar problem when installing a new steering
> wheel?
> What was your solution?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Charlie Vaselaar
> > 1966 BJ8
> > Houston, TX> Healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys at Sebring - 1963
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G'day

Yes great photos by Dave Friedman.

Also the first photo in the third batch is one never often seen. It's the
DHMC reserve car 57 FAC in practice. The cars used in the race were 54 FAC
and 56 FAC with 57 FAC in reserve.

After the race 54 FAC and 56 FAC were taken back to the UK and 57 FAC was
sold to Austin Canada for US$1,000. This car is now in Australia.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Derek Job
Sent: Saturday, 19 May 2012 5:04 PM
To: HealeyRick
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys at Sebring - 1963

Fantastic photos Rick. Haven't seen all 1200 yet! Great pics of the FAC
cars plus a brilliant one of Graham Hill driving a Ferrari.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Sat, May 19, 2012 at 4:10 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> If you like period race photos, this is a must
> see:  http://tinyurl.com/7td7sbn                      The '63 Sebring 12
> hr is
> documented with more than 1200 photos.  Here's one of the 54
> FAC:  http://tinyurl.com/7x8ttdx  Enjoy.
>
> Rick
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] scoops not vents
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Pieter and Linda wrote:

>I went along to a classic car rally here in Luxembourg today and saw a BJ8
>that had forward facing scoops on the side of the front guards in place of
>rally vents. Spoke to the owner who carefully explained that BMC had got it
>wrong at the time and all Healey racers since had "stupidly" followed suit.
>His theory was the the scoops and front grill combine to create an area of
>high pressure in the engine bay that "force feeds" the engine " just like a
>supercharger". I think maybe has has sniffed a few to many exhaust fumes. Nice
>day out though with some interesting cars including a very original and
>obviously much used Bugatti racer,
>cheers
>

A different perspective on vents vs. scoops.  Remember Geoff Healey was 
a very successful builder of record breakers and  long distance race 
cars ie. not rally cars. He achieved this by paying attention to the 
basics and small details. None of his Healeys could be considered full 
of exotic parts.

Now scoop vs. vent.  Anybody familiar with air flow will agree that the 
easiest way to achieve this without fans is to have air in a high 
pressure area ( for example in front of a speeding radiator) flow to a 
low pressure area. ( say behind a radiator)  This low pressure area will 
not exist if you have a bloody great scoop trying to force air into an 
engine bay that has only a small escape route such as under a speeding , 
low ground clearance Healey.  Also air which has been heated takes up a 
greater volume than cool or ambient air.  Therefore Healeys have vents 
behind the inner wheel arch to provide a low power required, 'free' air 
discharge point to prevent pressure build up behind the radiator where 
low pressure is required to facilitate good air flow through the 
radiator. Also less engine bay air pressure helps minimise that tricky 
hot stuff forcing ots way through all the holes and crevices into the 
cockpit.

Sucking is cheaper than blowing

My Healey with these vents has never overheated. I think Healeys have 
got it right.
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Greg & Bob,

I couldn't *disagree* more.  I've already presented the facts that for the
past 35+ years the Factory 100Ms have sold for 1/3 to 1/4 of what 100S have
sold for, and it still continues.  So how is a consistent 35 year price run
a "Speculative bubble"?  You can't ignore the facts.

Here's what I've presented...

*"In the past a similar 100S has sold for 3 to 4 times the price of a
Factory 100M.  Given that 100Ss are going for $600 to $700K (the Le Mans
car being the exception) then 100Ms SHOULD be worth $150 to $230K.*"

*"As I stated previously, Factory Ms have always been 25 to 30% of 100Ss.
When 100Ss were $10K an M was $2,500, then when 100S's were $100K M's were
$25K, and now that 100S's are $600 to $700K... well you do the math.  It's
always been what people will pay.*"

Cheers,

Curt

On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 8:15 PM, Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:

> " I do agree that 100Ms may be in a bit of speculative bubble, though
> (it's been going on for several years, so may have some staying power).
>  More justified, IMO, in the bubble in old muscle cars, which have no
> appeal to me.
>
> Bob"
>
> The really crazy bubble is the bubble in "bubble" or microcars, like the
> Isettas and Mescheschmitts and such, which bring 20 or 30K or more at
> auction restored these days.
>
> Greg
>
> ______________________________**_________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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I (gladly) stand corrected.  May the 100Ses continue to rise in value.


Bob



On 5/19/2012 6:50 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote:
> Greg & Bob,
>
> I couldn't _disagree_ more.  I've already presented the facts that for the past 35+ years the Factory 100Ms have sold 
> for 1/3 to 1/4 of what 100S have sold for, and it still continues.  So how is a consistent 35 year price run a 
> "Speculative bubble"?  You can't ignore the facts.
>
> Here's what I've presented...
>
> /"In the past a similar 100S has sold for 3 to 4 times the price of a Factory 100M.  Given that 100Ss are going for 
> $600 to $700K (the Le Mans car being the exception) then 100Ms SHOULD be worth $150 to $230K./"
>
> /"As I stated previously, Factory Ms have always been 25 to 30% of 100Ss.  When 100Ss were $10K an M was $2,500, then 
> when 100S's were $100K M's were $25K, and now that 100S's are $600 to $700K... well you do the math.  It's always been 
> what people will pay./"
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 8:15 PM, Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com <mailto:glemon@neb.rr.com>> wrote:
>
>     " I do agree that 100Ms may be in a bit of speculative bubble, though (it's been going on for several years, so
>     may have some staying power).  More justified, IMO, in the bubble in old muscle cars, which have no appeal to me.
>
>     Bob"
>
>     The really crazy bubble is the bubble in "bubble" or microcars, like the Isettas and Mescheschmitts and such,
>     which bring 20 or 30K or more at auction restored these days.
>
>     Greg
>
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-- 
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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

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Curt

That's one way of looking at the statistics, however I would suggest if you
look at it from the percentage premium of a 100M over a 100 there has been
a massive rise to the situation where it seems a 100M is almost 3 times the
price of a normal 100.  Not that long ago the premium was maybe 20% or 30%.
To me the 100M comparison should always be to a normal 100 not a 100S which
as we know is a totally different car.

Derek
www.healeysix

On Sat, May 19, 2012 at 2:54 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> I (gladly) stand corrected.  May the 100Ses continue to rise in value.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> On 5/19/2012 6:50 AM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote:
>
>> Greg & Bob,
>>
>> I couldn't _disagree_ more.  I've already presented the facts that for
>> the past 35+ years the Factory 100Ms have sold for 1/3 to 1/4 of what 100S
>> have sold for, and it still continues.  So how is a consistent 35 year
>> price run a "Speculative bubble"?  You can't ignore the facts.
>>
>>
>> Here's what I've presented...
>>
>> /"In the past a similar 100S has sold for 3 to 4 times the price of a
>> Factory 100M.  Given that 100Ss are going for $600 to $700K (the Le Mans
>> car being the exception) then 100Ms SHOULD be worth $150 to $230K./"
>>
>> /"As I stated previously, Factory Ms have always been 25 to 30% of 100Ss.
>>  When 100Ss were $10K an M was $2,500, then when 100S's were $100K M's were
>> $25K, and now that 100S's are $600 to $700K... well you do the math.  It's
>> always been what people will pay./"
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Curt
>>
>>
>> On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 8:15 PM, Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com <mailto:
>> glemon@neb.rr.com>> wrote:
>>
>>    " I do agree that 100Ms may be in a bit of speculative bubble, though
>> (it's been going on for several years, so
>>    may have some staying power).  More justified, IMO, in the bubble in
>> old muscle cars, which have no appeal to me.
>>
>>    Bob"
>>
>>    The really crazy bubble is the bubble in "bubble" or microcars, like
>> the Isettas and Mescheschmitts and such,
>>    which bring 20 or 30K or more at auction restored these days.
>>
>>    Greg
>>
>>    ______________________________**_________________
>>    Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>    Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>    Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
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Subject: [Healeys] Historic Sports Car Racing,
 Silverstone - Photos including  Healeys
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Hi All

I was at Silverstone today for the HSCC meeting. Lots of interesting cars
and 5 Healeys including Rinus Simke's well known, yellow Big Healey driven
(very fast) by his son Jaap. Plenty of American iron including ex racing
cars of Dan Gurney, Al Unser and Peter Gethin.

When I was taking photos of Rinus' Healey on the pit wall I found myself
standing next to a very understated Christian Horner, Chief of the Red Bull
F1 Team. He was sharingthe driving of an E-Type with F1 designer Adrian
Newey. Not a Red Bull logo in sight.

You can see the photos here

http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj530/derekcjob/HSCC/

Derek
www.healeysix.com
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Just a quick note to let the listers know I'm interested in selling my BJ8.
It's an excellent driver, needs nothing, and has quite a few improvements.
It's advertised in the June Healey Marque, but for those who may not get it, I
can send details if interested. Please reply to davidzbj8@cox.net

Regards,
David Z.
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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Though we all seem to agree that there is a differential value between an M
and a standard 100 (or for that matter a Lemans) I did not see any opinions
regarding how much that might be.  I'd be interested in hearing thoughts
regarding what premium attaches to an M.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 11:15 PM, Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:

> " I do agree that 100Ms may be in a bit of speculative bubble, though
> (it's been going on for several years, so may have some staying power).
>  More justified, IMO, in the bubble in old muscle cars, which have no
> appeal to me.
>
> Bob"
>
> The really crazy bubble is the bubble in "bubble" or microcars, like the
> Isettas and Mescheschmitts and such, which bring 20 or 30K or more at
> auction restored these days.
>
> Greg
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 19 21:08:38 2012
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Ok. I guess I have to jump in on this. "Are they better?"

Yes, they are better. Roughly 25% more horsepower, heavier sway bar resulting
in better handling. the 4 speed is much more pleasant to drive than the BN1,
and the louvered hood w/strap make them a standout in any crowd. Sure there
may have been some marketing ploy by Donald Healey with the 100 M but
regardless, it produced a faster, better driving car. Give him credit.

May be why so many re-productions are built today!

Now, take into account production numbers. 640 BN2 !00 M's built, maybe
175-185 still exist today. BN1 & BN2 production was roughly 14,000, and maybe
3500+ (Rich ?) are still known to exist. Supply & Demand. When these fewer
items perform better & look better, they are going to bring significantly more
money. Add to that the prominence of being built at the Healey Racing Factory!
:-)

To those of you have said that the 100 M should, or has, held a premium of 20%
-30% over a standard car, I'd ask, if you actually owned a 100M & wanted to
sell, would you price it within that range 20-30% range or what the market is
now paying for 100 M's?

So, If in the 20-30% range, I have cash!!!!

BTW, I have the 2 - 100 M's because they are the most fun to drive around the
back country roads where iI live. The BJ8 is for cross country tours.
Different cars for different purposes.  (Not sure why I have the BN7
tri-carb!)  :-)

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M  White/Black
'56 100 M  Florida Green/OEW
'55 BN1 (Sold)
'62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
Healey100M@gmail.com

On May 16, 2012, at 3:02 PM, <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
<Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com> wrote:

> Hi Derek,
> There is nothing special about 100Ms. Its like Alpina BMWs or AMG
Mercedes`s.
> They are ranged in value a bit higher than the stock ones. But are they
> better??
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 19 22:59:41 2012
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When Geoff Healey developed the 1965 - 68  streamlined Sprites they were 
windtunnel tested for the assessment of drag etc.  This resulted in the 
windscreens being slightly modified at the top corners, the screen was 
laid back slightly and the high point of the roof line was moved foward 
to reduce drag.

As a result of all this technical and calibrated research the Sprites  
quite effective.

In 1968 at LeMans the Sprite had approx 115 bhp,  did 150 plus mph  and 
averaged 99mph for the 24 hours.   The car was fitted with vents in the 
fenders, a rear under-tray and a rear spoiler.

It is said that the body shape would average 30mpg at 100 mph.

I have motored down Mulsanne Straight as a passenger when the Sprite was 
pulling 7200rpm in 5th gear.

The message, give Healeys a bit of credit for what they achieved with 
what they had.  I wont start on the streamliner 100.4 and 100.6   
achievements.
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I really can't let this pass, "The 4 speed is much more pleasant to 
drive than the BN1" I don't think so!!
No offence, my opinion.
Cheers
Larry

On 20/05/2012 1:11 PM, Randy Hicks wrote:
> Ok. I guess I have to jump in on this. "Are they better?"
>
> Yes, they are better. Roughly 25% more horsepower, heavier sway bar resulting
> in better handling. the 4 speed is much more pleasant to drive than the BN1,
> and the louvered hood w/strap make them a standout in any crowd. Sure there
> may have been some marketing ploy by Donald Healey with the 100 M but
> regardless, it produced a faster, better driving car. Give him credit.
>
> May be why so many re-productions are built today!
>
> Now, take into account production numbers. 640 BN2 !00 M's built, maybe
> 175-185 still exist today. BN1&  BN2 production was roughly 14,000, and maybe
> 3500+ (Rich ?) are still known to exist. Supply&  Demand. When these fewer
> items perform better&  look better, they are going to bring significantly more
> money. Add to that the prominence of being built at the Healey Racing Factory!
> :-)
>
> To those of you have said that the 100 M should, or has, held a premium of 20%
> -30% over a standard car, I'd ask, if you actually owned a 100M&  wanted to
> sell, would you price it within that range 20-30% range or what the market is
> now paying for 100 M's?
>
> So, If in the 20-30% range, I have cash!!!!
>
> BTW, I have the 2 - 100 M's because they are the most fun to drive around the
> back country roads where iI live. The BJ8 is for cross country tours.
> Different cars for different purposes.  (Not sure why I have the BN7
> tri-carb!)  :-)
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
> www.austinhealey100m.com
> '56 100 M  White/Black
> '56 100 M  Florida Green/OEW
> '55 BN1 (Sold)
> '62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop
> '65 BJ8
> '53 MGTD
> Healey100M@gmail.com
>
> On May 16, 2012, at 3:02 PM,<Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
> <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>  wrote:
>
>> Hi Derek,
>> There is nothing special about 100Ms. Its like Alpina BMWs or AMG
> Mercedes`s.
>> They are ranged in value a bit higher than the stock ones. But are they
>> better??
> _______________________________________________
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> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 20 03:15:11 2012
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From: <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
To: <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 May 2012 11:14:58 +0200
Thread-Topic: "100-M" for sale
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Subject: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale
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I would say a 100M has its value when all the special M parts are with the car
and original and its prove that with body and chassis number its a "real"
100M. Here on the east side of the Atlantic pond such cars seem to be rare
rare like hen`s teeth. I have never seen one so far.
Those 100M cars offered are usually modified and hence have lost what it makes
a "real" 100M. So the prices asked for are not at justified. Some years ago
such 100Ms were offered for about 3000 Euro`s or Brit. Pounds on top of an
"ordinary" BN1 or BN2.
This year I saw one of those 100Ms offered for 150TEuro, which is about double
of an ordinary 100. People just think when they have a Heritage certificate
which certifies the car as a "real" 100M its worth double of an ordinary 100,
even fitted with lets say weber carbs, no matching engine number, front disk
brakes, aluminium radiator, wrong colour, motolita steering wheel, etc. Ok, if
the money is paid its worth the price - no doubt. But this is somewhat stupid
in my mind and this bubble may burst one time. Time will show.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Michael Oritt
Gesendet: Samstag, 19. Mai 2012 23:48
An: Greg Lemon
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale

Though we all seem to agree that there is a differential value between an M
and a standard 100 (or for that matter a Lemans) I did not see any opinions
regarding how much that might be.  I'd be interested in hearing thoughts
regarding what premium attaches to an M.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 11:15 PM, Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:

> " I do agree that 100Ms may be in a bit of speculative bubble, though
> (it's been going on for several years, so may have some staying power).
>  More justified, IMO, in the bubble in old muscle cars, which have no
> appeal to me.
>
> Bob"
>
> The really crazy bubble is the bubble in "bubble" or microcars, like
> the Isettas and Mescheschmitts and such, which bring 20 or 30K or more
> at auction restored these days.
>
> Greg
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Historic Sports Car Racing,
 Silverstone - Photos  including  Healeys
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G'day Derek

Noticed a photo of the rear of a Jensen 541. Did you get a chance to look at
its engine?

Gorgeous car and my favourite production coupe from the 1950s, but fitted
with their original 4-litre Austin six-cylinder its performance could be
best called lugubrious.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Derek Job
Sent: Sunday, 20 May 2012 3:57 AM
To: Forum
Subject: [Healeys] Historic Sports Car Racing, Silverstone - Photos
including Healeys

Hi All

I was at Silverstone today for the HSCC meeting. Lots of interesting cars
and 5 Healeys including Rinus Simke's well known, yellow Big Healey driven
(very fast) by his son Jaap. Plenty of American iron including ex racing
cars of Dan Gurney, Al Unser and Peter Gethin.

When I was taking photos of Rinus' Healey on the pit wall I found myself
standing next to a very understated Christian Horner, Chief of the Red Bull
F1 Team. He was sharingthe driving of an E-Type with F1 designer Adrian
Newey. Not a Red Bull logo in sight.

You can see the photos here

http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj530/derekcjob/HSCC/

Derek
www.healeysix.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 20 06:32:09 2012
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From: Robert Duquette <robertduquette@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: [Healeys] Optima batteries
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Has anyone ever installed a pair of the optima 6V batteries in their car?
They are 10" long at their longest point.  I'm guessing 9" length for the main
body with a longer base for clamping down.  Optima sent me a CAD drawing of
the battery, but I can't open it from this device.

http://www.optimabatteries.com/_media/documents/specs/6V_121207.pdf
Or
http://tinyurl.com/8y5ew5l

I seem to have a romantic attachment to dual sixes, but I have next to none
for the corrosive aspects of the older style batteries.

I have constructed a light cardboard box of the maximum dimensions of the
optima and put it in place of one of the original type batteries.  I also
removed the tray and one of the battery hold down rods.  I put some images of
the clearances at the link below.  Select the links that begin with 6v, if you
are interested.  I originally placed it diagonally, thinking that keeping it
as far away from the diff and drive shaft was a good idea.  I took pictures
that way.  I think building battery trays would be a major task for me.  I've
since moved it to straight back, but can't post an image from here. :(  I
believe that they will fit.  But, how much will that rear end move?

http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/

Has anyone done this?

PS: I am the type who likes my modifications to bolt in and bolt out.
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I also totally agree with Larry on this one. Having owned and driven both
extensively, I always prefer the 3 speed box for sheer fun and great ratios.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Larry Varley
Sent: May-20-12 1:40 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "100-M" for sale

I really can't let this pass, "The 4 speed is much more pleasant to drive
than the BN1" I don't think so!!
No offence, my opinion.
Cheers
Larry

On 20/05/2012 1:11 PM, Randy Hicks wrote:
> Ok. I guess I have to jump in on this. "Are they better?"
>
> Yes, they are better. Roughly 25% more horsepower, heavier sway bar 
> resulting in better handling. the 4 speed is much more pleasant to 
> drive than the BN1, and the louvered hood w/strap make them a standout 
> in any crowd. Sure there may have been some marketing ploy by Donald 
> Healey with the 100 M but regardless, it produced a faster, better driving
car. Give him credit.
>
> May be why so many re-productions are built today!
>
> Now, take into account production numbers. 640 BN2 !00 M's built, 
> maybe
> 175-185 still exist today. BN1&  BN2 production was roughly 14,000, 
> and maybe
> 3500+ (Rich ?) are still known to exist. Supply&  Demand. When these 
> 3500+ fewer
> items perform better&  look better, they are going to bring 
> significantly more money. Add to that the prominence of being built at the
Healey Racing Factory!
> :-)
>
> To those of you have said that the 100 M should, or has, held a 
> premium of 20% -30% over a standard car, I'd ask, if you actually 
> owned a 100M&  wanted to sell, would you price it within that range 
> 20-30% range or what the market is now paying for 100 M's?
>
> So, If in the 20-30% range, I have cash!!!!
>
> BTW, I have the 2 - 100 M's because they are the most fun to drive 
> around the back country roads where iI live. The BJ8 is for cross country
tours.
> Different cars for different purposes.  (Not sure why I have the BN7
> tri-carb!)  :-)
>
> Randy
>
> Randy Hicks
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Robert,

I f you want to get away from the original twin 6V acid type batteries, then
never mind messing with the two 6V Optimas when you can simply install one
12V Optima on one side and anchor it down suitably. We've fitted this setup
on a number of cars and it works extremely well with plenty of clearance.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Robert Duquette
Sent: May-20-12 8:30 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Optima batteries

Has anyone ever installed a pair of the optima 6V batteries in their car?
They are 10" long at their longest point.  I'm guessing 9" length for the
main body with a longer base for clamping down.  Optima sent me a CAD
drawing of the battery, but I can't open it from this device.

http://www.optimabatteries.com/_media/documents/specs/6V_121207.pdf
Or
http://tinyurl.com/8y5ew5l

I seem to have a romantic attachment to dual sixes, but I have next to none
for the corrosive aspects of the older style batteries.

I have constructed a light cardboard box of the maximum dimensions of the
optima and put it in place of one of the original type batteries.  I also
removed the tray and one of the battery hold down rods.  I put some images
of the clearances at the link below.  Select the links that begin with 6v,
if you are interested.  I originally placed it diagonally, thinking that
keeping it as far away from the diff and drive shaft was a good idea.  I
took pictures that way.  I think building battery trays would be a major
task for me.  I've since moved it to straight back, but can't post an image
from here. :(  I believe that they will fit.  But, how much will that rear
end move?

http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/

Has anyone done this?

PS: I am the type who likes my modifications to bolt in and bolt out.
$12.75
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Historic Sports Car Racing,
 Silverstone - Photos  including Healeys
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Patrick

Yes that 541 shape is pretty distinctive. I didn't get chance to check the
engine as the bonnet was closed. I just assumned they had some kind of
American V8 in them.

Did you see the sleek red fast back coupe in the photos. Must admit I
didn't know what it was. turns out it is a Morgan SLR from the early 1960s.
The entire world production of 3 was at Silverstone yesterday!. The red
one, a green one and a polished aluminum one which is also in one of
the photos. Beautiful cars.

Derek
www.healeysix.net

On Sun, May 20, 2012 at 1:20 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day Derek
>
> Noticed a photo of the rear of a Jensen 541. Did you get a chance to look
> at
> its engine?
>
> Gorgeous car and my favourite production coupe from the 1950s, but fitted
> with their original 4-litre Austin six-cylinder its performance could be
> best called lugubrious.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Derek Job
> Sent: Sunday, 20 May 2012 3:57 AM
> To: Forum
> Subject: [Healeys] Historic Sports Car Racing, Silverstone - Photos
> including Healeys
>
> Hi All
>
> I was at Silverstone today for the HSCC meeting. Lots of interesting cars
> and 5 Healeys including Rinus Simke's well known, yellow Big Healey driven
> (very fast) by his son Jaap. Plenty of American iron including ex racing
> cars of Dan Gurney, Al Unser and Peter Gethin.
>
> When I was taking photos of Rinus' Healey on the pit wall I found myself
> standing next to a very understated Christian Horner, Chief of the Red Bull
> F1 Team. He was sharingthe driving of an E-Type with F1 designer Adrian
> Newey. Not a Red Bull logo in sight.
>
> You can see the photos here
>
> http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj530/derekcjob/HSCC/
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.com
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Historic Sports Car Racing,
 Silverstone - Photos   including Hea...
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Hi-
Love the pictures very much. But as I reviewed the pictures there was one  
Healey that caught my eye, the dark blue & white #60. (The left side  fender 
FLASH is actually one that was made to be fitted on the right side  fender. 
Did not see a picture of the right side so I'm not sure if it also had  the 
one for the left side there.)
I have seen this error several times. 
FWIW There is even a Pacific Green 3000 pictured in the Original  
AUSTIN-HEALEY by Anders Ditlev Clausager that has both the Flashes incorrectly  
installed. (Pages 14 & 65.)
 
Marion Brantley
 
 
In a message dated 5/20/2012 10:07:07 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
derek.c.job@gmail.com writes:

http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj530/derekcjob/HSCC/
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Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 glovebox lock
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Is there a spring anywhere in the BJ8 glove box assembly?  If so where and
what kind of spring?  The catch portion of my lock just does not go up far
enough when locked to hold the door in, especially with a new dash.  Mike
Jackley, Sturgis, SD
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Optima batteries
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Robert

I have done the same on both of my 100s. It was Rich who gave me the 
idea.

Fitting can be achieved without making any irreversible changes to the 
car. Because the Optima battery needs to be held by it base I made a 
weatherproof ply platform and painted it back. It fits to the car with 
two countersunk screws that go into the holes vacated by the long hold 
down rods. Onto this board are two angle clamps that fit over the 
battery base flanges. One is solidly fixed whilst the other has slots to 
allow it to be pushed hard against the base of the battery before 
tightening up. Obviously you need a long positive lead to replace both 
the battery link and short switch to other original battery link. This 
can be supported in the original centre 'P' clip.

There is less space on my BN2 because of the Hypoid rear axle but there 
is still enough clearance to be safe.

The original advantages of the Optima battery are in my opinion well 
worth having although perhaps more expensive than some other set ups.. 
That is, no spillage or topping up and a healthy starting current even 
after a few months non use.

I have in mind using the space left by the second battery to make and 
fit a wooden fixed tool box but I have yet to do this

Best regards

>
>I f you want to get away from the original twin 6V acid type batteries, then
>never mind messing with the two 6V Optimas when you can simply install one
>12V Optima on one side and anchor it down suitably. We've fitted this setup
>on a number of cars and it works extremely well with plenty of clearance.
>
>Rich
>
-- 
John Harper
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Subject: [Healeys] Beautiful photo set of MKI
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For those that might be interested I have just posted a lovely set of studio
photos of a Sebring inspired MKI. The photos were taken by professional
Swedish photographer Peter Gunnars.

Please click on the following link:

http://www.concourshealeys.com/one-of-the-best-set-of-austin-healey-photos-i%
C2%B4ve-ever-seen-by-peter-gunnars/


Magnus Karlsson

www.concourshealeys.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 20 14:25:34 2012
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I'm afraid that I sent a broken link to these photos in my previous mail.
Please try the link below instead:

http://www.concourshealeys.com/one-of-the-best-set-of-austin-healey-photos-iB
4ve-ever-seen-by-peter-gunnars/

Magnus Karlsson
www.concourshealeys.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Beautiful photo set of MKI
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Great photos Magnus.

Derek
On Sun, May 20, 2012 at 7:05 PM, Magnus Karlsson
<magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>wrote:

> For those that might be interested I have just posted a lovely set of
> studio
> photos of a Sebring inspired MKI. The photos were taken by professional
> Swedish photographer Peter Gunnars.
>
> Please click on the following link:
>
>
> http://www.concourshealeys.com/one-of-the-best-set-of-austin-healey-photos-i%
> C2%B4ve-ever-seen-by-peter-gunnars/<http://www.concourshealeys.com/one-of-the-best-set-of-austin-healey-photos-i%C2%B4ve-ever-seen-by-peter-gunnars/>
>
>
> Magnus Karlsson
>
> www.concourshealeys.com
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Magnus,
use tinyurl.com to get shorter URLs.
B


Le 20/05/12 22:25, Magnus Karlsson a icrit :
> I'm afraid that I sent a broken link to these photos in my previous mail.
> Please try the link below instead:
>
> http://www.concourshealeys.com/one-of-the-best-set-of-austin-healey-photos-iB
> 4ve-ever-seen-by-peter-gunnars/
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> www.concourshealeys.com
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 20 14:57:05 2012
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I4m very sorry to bomb the list but it seems that my long links don4t work
very well. It was suggested that I try tiny url.

Please try this link instead:

http://tinyurl.com/7nha2wr

Magnus Karlsson


www.concourshealeys.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Beautiful photo set of MKI
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Magnus Karlsson wrote:
> I4m very sorry to bomb the list but it seems that my long links don4t work
> very well.

Yes, a lot of mail programs out there will "do you a favor" and put
a break in a long line.  So when the mail shows up at the server
it is not a continuous, clickable link.

mjb.
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From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Disgrace
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You know, there's nothing that chaps my hyde more than some moron who thinks
he'll get more money by advertising a car like this as a "rat rod".  This car
looks complete as well.  I mean he even stripped the paint just to prove it is
all aluminum.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160804277449
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 20 16:34:03 2012
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G'day

I agree as the AC saloons are lovely cars and with the AC all alloy engine
are also very light.

Hope someone buys it with a view of restoration.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Monday, 21 May 2012 8:15 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Disgrace

You know, there's nothing that chaps my hyde more than some moron who thinks
he'll get more money by advertising a car like this as a "rat rod".  This
car
looks complete as well.  I mean he even stripped the paint just to prove it
is
all aluminum.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160804277449
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 20 16:50:51 2012
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Alloy block, iron head Patrick! I went after one of these a few years ago in 
Qld - $4000. I didn't pursue as I didn't have space, & later heard it was 
bought by someone who intended to junk the body & build an AC Ace replica on 
it! (Now THAT's a disgrace!)

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane

-----Original Message----- 
From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 8:34 AM
To: 'Alan Seigrist' ; 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disgrace

G'day

I agree as the AC saloons are lovely cars and with the AC all alloy engine
are also very light.

Hope someone buys it with a view of restoration.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Monday, 21 May 2012 8:15 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Disgrace

You know, there's nothing that chaps my hyde more than some moron who thinks
he'll get more money by advertising a car like this as a "rat rod".  This
car
looks complete as well.  I mean he even stripped the paint just to prove it
is
all aluminum.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 20 17:52:17 2012
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G'day

You're right. Just checked my one and only AC saloon book 'AC Two-Litre
Saloons & Buckland Sports cars' and it says that it had a cast iron cylinder
head and alloy block. It was also fitted with a SOHC.

I am reminded that the engine was first introduced in 1919 and stayed in
production for the saloons until 1958.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter & Veronica [mailto:greylinn@ozemail.com.au] 
Sent: Monday, 21 May 2012 8:51 AM
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn; 'Alan Seigrist'; 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disgrace

Alloy block, iron head Patrick! I went after one of these a few years ago in

Qld - $4000. I didn't pursue as I didn't have space, & later heard it was 
bought by someone who intended to junk the body & build an AC Ace replica on

it! (Now THAT's a disgrace!)

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane

-----Original Message----- 
From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 8:34 AM
To: 'Alan Seigrist' ; 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disgrace

G'day

I agree as the AC saloons are lovely cars and with the AC all alloy engine
are also very light.

Hope someone buys it with a view of restoration.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Monday, 21 May 2012 8:15 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Disgrace

You know, there's nothing that chaps my hyde more than some moron who thinks
he'll get more money by advertising a car like this as a "rat rod".  This
car
looks complete as well.  I mean he even stripped the paint just to prove it
is
all aluminum.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 20 19:10:43 2012
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From: Linwood H Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Beautiful photo set of MKI
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Magnus,
Thanks for sharing those! As the owner of a MKI I was especially pleased to see the Sebring car. Thanks again.
Lin

Lin Rose
1959 AN5 Bugeye - pure driving enjoyment, go-kart with a body.
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" - owned since 1971, my first car and still have it!
1964 Jag MKII - current project
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 21 07:01:03 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Optima batteries
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Thanks, Rich!

I had heard of this option.  I think someone even sells the tray for this
option?  It sounds like the most practical and economical and speedy path to
accomplishing a modification  to a more modern battery, but ... Sometimes I'm
a bit eccentric ... Why be normal?  :). ( I'm normal enough in most ways, but
every once in a while, I get a bee in my bonnet. )



On 2012-05-20, at 9:40 AM, Rich Chrysler <richchrysler@quickclic.net> wrote:

> Robert,
>
> I f you want to get away from the original twin 6V acid type batteries,
then
> never mind messing with the two 6V Optimas when you can simply install one
> 12V Optima on one side and anchor it down suitably. We've fitted this setup
> on a number of cars and it works extremely well with plenty of clearance.
>
> Rich
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Robert Duquette
> Sent: May-20-12 8:30 AM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Optima batteries
>
> Has anyone ever installed a pair of the optima 6V batteries in their car?
> They are 10" long at their longest point.  I'm guessing 9" length for the
> main body with a longer base for clamping down.  Optima sent me a CAD
> drawing of the battery, but I can't open it from this device.
>
> http://www.optimabatteries.com/_media/documents/specs/6V_121207.pdf
> Or
> http://tinyurl.com/8y5ew5l
>
> I seem to have a romantic attachment to dual sixes, but I have next to none
> for the corrosive aspects of the older style batteries.
>
> I have constructed a light cardboard box of the maximum dimensions of the
> optima and put it in place of one of the original type batteries.  I also
> removed the tray and one of the battery hold down rods.  I put some images
> of the clearances at the link below.  Select the links that begin with 6v,
> if you are interested.  I originally placed it diagonally, thinking that
> keeping it as far away from the diff and drive shaft was a good idea.  I
> took pictures that way.  I think building battery trays would be a major
> task for me.  I've since moved it to straight back, but can't post an image
> from here. :(  I believe that they will fit.  But, how much will that rear
> end move?
>
> http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/
>
> Has anyone done this?
>
> PS: I am the type who likes my modifications to bolt in and bolt out.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 21 07:26:20 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Optima batteries
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Thanks, John!

I was planning to build (or have built)  similar trays, though, out of metal,
with perhaps a bend over at the diff end to hold that end of the battery base
snuggly and using the hole where the original battery hold down rod attaches
at the bulkhead end.

I had an Optima battery in my Midget and I think they're great.

Thanks for the detail that you supplied.  What is this "P clip"?  Did it
support the positive cable?  Or the centre cable?

Robert


On 2012-05-20, at 12:28 PM, John Harper <ah@jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>
> Robert
>
> I have done the same on both of my 100s. It was Rich who gave me the idea.
>
> Fitting can be achieved without making any irreversible changes to the car.
Because the Optima battery needs to be held by it base I made a weatherproof
ply platform and painted it back. It fits to the car with two countersunk
screws that go into the holes vacated by the long hold down rods. Onto this
board are two angle clamps that fit over the battery base flanges. One is
solidly fixed whilst the other has slots to allow it to be pushed hard against
the base of the battery before tightening up. Obviously you need a long
positive lead to replace both the battery link and short switch to other
original battery link. This can be supported in the original centre 'P' clip.
>
> There is less space on my BN2 because of the Hypoid rear axle but there is
still enough clearance to be safe.
>
> The original advantages of the Optima battery are in my opinion well worth
having although perhaps more expensive than some other set ups.. That is, no
spillage or topping up and a healthy starting current even after a few months
non use.
>
> I have in mind using the space left by the second battery to make and fit a
wooden fixed tool box but I have yet to do this
>
> Best regards
>
>>
>> I f you want to get away from the original twin 6V acid type batteries,
then
>> never mind messing with the two 6V Optimas when you can simply install one
>> 12V Optima on one side and anchor it down suitably. We've fitted this
setup
>> on a number of cars and it works extremely well with plenty of clearance.
>>
>> Rich
>>
> --
> John Harper
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To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 21 May 2012 09:23:09 -0500
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Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey - 2012 Sea Lion
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Interesting, but a bit pricy at $259,500 for a car that only has one
windshield wiper.  But it can store 2 bicycles.
 
http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/1216-Marc%20Witt%20Applied%20Design-Sea%
20Lion%20Amphibious%20%2020%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%
20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20World%20Record%20Competition%20Vehicle%20-Ma
zda%2013B%20Rotary
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtHH0mkh-I0
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtHH0mkh-I0&feature=youtu.be>
&feature=youtu.be
 
http://dvice.com/archives/2012/05/yours-for-25950.php
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 21 08:32:46 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Optima batteries
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Robert

Centre cable

Regards

>
>I was planning to build (or have built)  similar trays, though, out of metal,
>with perhaps a bend over at the diff end to hold that end of the battery base
>snuggly and using the hole where the original battery hold down rod attaches
>at the bulkhead end.
>
>I had an Optima battery in my Midget and I think they're great.
>
>Thanks for the detail that you supplied.  What is this "P clip"?  Did it
>support the positive cable?  Or the centre cable?
>
>Robert
>
>
>On 2012-05-20, at 12:28 PM, John Harper <ah@jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>
>> Robert
>>
>> I have done the same on both of my 100s. It was Rich who gave me the idea.
>>
>> Fitting can be achieved without making any irreversible changes to the car.
>Because the Optima battery needs to be held by it base I made a weatherproof
>ply platform and painted it back. It fits to the car with two countersunk
>screws that go into the holes vacated by the long hold down rods. Onto this
>board are two angle clamps that fit over the battery base flanges. One is
>solidly fixed whilst the other has slots to allow it to be pushed hard against
>the base of the battery before tightening up. Obviously you need a long
>positive lead to replace both the battery link and short switch to other
>original battery link. This can be supported in the original centre 'P' clip.
>>
>> There is less space on my BN2 because of the Hypoid rear axle but there is
>still enough clearance to be safe.
>>
>> The original advantages of the Optima battery are in my opinion well worth
>having although perhaps more expensive than some other set ups.. That is, no
>spillage or topping up and a healthy starting current even after a few months
>non use.
>>
>> I have in mind using the space left by the second battery to make and fit a
>wooden fixed tool box but I have yet to do this
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>>>
>>> I f you want to get away from the original twin 6V acid type batteries,
>then
>>> never mind messing with the two 6V Optimas when you can simply install one
>>> 12V Optima on one side and anchor it down suitably. We've fitted this
>setup
>>> on a number of cars and it works extremely well with plenty of clearance.
>>>
>>> Rich
>>>
>> --
>> John Harper
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Ron Ray'" <ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non-Healey - 2012 Sea Lion
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Here is the tiny URL for this:

http://tinyurl.com/6p349ng


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Ray
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 10:23 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey - 2012 Sea Lion

Interesting, but a bit pricy at $259,500 for a car that only has one
windshield wiper.  But it can store 2 bicycles.

http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/1216-Marc%20Witt%20Applied%20Design-Sea%
20Lion%20Amphibious%20%2020%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%
20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20World%20Record%20Competition%20Vehicle%20-Ma
zda%2013B%20Rotary

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtHH0mkh-I0
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtHH0mkh-I0&feature=youtu.be>
&feature=youtu.be

http://dvice.com/archives/2012/05/yours-for-25950.php
$12.75
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Subject: [Healeys] Smith Brody
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Has anyone had any contact with Smith Brody in the last month or so? We've
called both of his telephone numbers but haven't gotten any response.
Thanks.
Gary Anderson
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As an engineering exercise it's very interesting, as a commercial venture,
it's absolute madness.

Derek

On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 4:07 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

> Here is the tiny URL for this:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/6p349ng
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Ron Ray
> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 10:23 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey - 2012 Sea Lion
>
> Interesting, but a bit pricy at $259,500 for a car that only has one
> windshield wiper.  But it can store 2 bicycles.
>
>
> http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/1216-Marc%20Witt%20Applied%20Design-Sea%
>
> 20Lion%20Amphibious%20%2020%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%
>
> 20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20World%20Record%20Competition%20Vehicle%20-Ma
> zda%2013B%20Rotary
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtHH0mkh-I0
> <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtHH0mkh-I0&feature=youtu.be>
> &feature=youtu.be
>
> http://dvice.com/archives/2012/05/yours-for-25950.php
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 22:25:13 +1000
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non-Healey - 2012 Sea Lion
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I think that most land speed record cars aren't based on any thoughts of a
commercial return.
It's about innovation. Achievement.  Not investment.
I suspect if you emailed that guy, and asked him where he got the selling
price from;
 it would actually be a formula like: (what I paid for things I bought),
 plus (the cost of other stuff I had),
plus (the hours I worked on this project for the last 10 years) @ $5 per hour.
Seriously.
I know nothing about this project other than what I've learnt reading this,
and following links. This guy is an innovator. He could well be a genius. But
don't bag his price. Follow the links. The closest contender car/ boat device
sells vehicle promoted as a $200k plus "chick magnet"!!
;-)
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 22/05/2012, at 5:26 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> As an engineering exercise it's very interesting, as a commercial venture,
> it's absolute madness.
>
> Derek
>
> On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 4:07 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> Here is the tiny URL for this:
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/6p349ng
>>
>>
>> John Sims, BN6
>> Aberdeen, NJ
>>
>> http://www.healey6.com
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
>> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Ron Ray
>> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 10:23 AM
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey - 2012 Sea Lion
>>
>> Interesting, but a bit pricy at $259,500 for a car that only has one
>> windshield wiper.  But it can store 2 bicycles.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 22 09:31:42 2012
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From: Kenny J <theswed@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Sighting
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Anyone on the list own a red #21 traveling on N/B US101 (on a tow truck) in
Marin today.

Kenny
61 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 22 09:35:56 2012
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 11:36:36 -0400
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Subject: [Healeys] Early Friday Funny
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A lovely poem !!!


Satnav

I have a little Satnav

It sits there in my car

A Satnav is a driver's friend

It tells you where you are



I have a little Satnav

I've had it all my life

It does more than the normal one

My Satnav is my wife



It gives me full instructions

On exactly how to drive

"It's thirty miles an hour" it says

"And you're doing thirty five"



It tells me when to stop and start

And when to use the brake

And tells me that it's never ever

Safe to overtake



It tells me when a light is red

And when it goes to green

It seems to know instinctively

Just when to intervene



It lists the vehicles just in front

It lists those to the rear

And taking this into account

It specifies my gear



I'm sure no other driver

Has so helpful a device

For when we leave and lock the car

It still gives its advice



It fills me up with counselling

Each journey's pretty fraught

So why don't I exchange it

And get a quieter sort?



Ah well, you see, it cleans the house

Makes sure I'm properly fed

It washes all my shirts and things

And - keeps me warm in bed!
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Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 11:32:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
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Gary,
 
I saw his Panoz up on his lift as I drove by his shop a week or so
ago.  Assumed he was working on it as it was outside.
 
I'll try to swing by
this week or weekend to see if he is around, but if he is not answering the
phone he is probably on the road:)
 
Dean 
 
Subject: [Healeys] Smith Brody
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Has anyone had any contact with
Smith Brody in the last month or so? We've
called both of his telephone
numbers but haven't gotten any response.
Thanks.
Gary Anderson
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 22 14:33:27 2012
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this is a test. 
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Need advise on best place to get gauges for 100 6 refurbished.

Thanks

John
1957 BN4

Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Did we pass? 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "jimmy smith" <jimmy_smith@comcast.net> 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 1:33:37 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] test only, 

this is a test. 
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Bob Spidell wrote:
> Did we pass?
>
>

Usually we get passed.

mjb.
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Made my day.

Per

Mark J Bradakis skrev 2012-05-22 23:59:
> Bob Spidell wrote:
>> Did we pass?
>>
>>
>
> Usually we get passed.
>
> mjb.
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gauges
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john - try    http://www.nisonger.com

you should not be disappointed.

what is the build date on your Longbridge?


jim lesher


> Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 13:41:04 -0700
> From: lostboys65@yahoo.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Gauges
>
> Need advise on best place to get gauges for 100 6 refurbished.
>
> Thanks
>
> John
> 1957 BN4
>
> Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android
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Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Brake booster fail locks brakes on
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Hey guys,
Ever had a BJ8 brake booster fail so it locks your brakes on?
My brake booster (BJ8 std type) effectively pushed the pedal high, and locked
all the brakes on. Solid
Pushing hard on the pedal released the brakes, but next time you touched them,
same thing. 4 wheels locked solid.
This isn't a diagnosis question. I had replaced calipers, hoses, rebuilt wheel
cylinders, rebuilt the brake master cyl, replaced the reseviour with a new
one, and fitted a rebuilt BJ8 Booster. fitted new linings and shoes. And a New
one way valve in the booster vacuum line.
Thats when the problem started...
So I re rebuilt master cylinder. Twice. Checked and double checked everyting
Checked the booster one way valve.
Glimmer of hope was disconnecting the "new" booster. Problem vanished - but no
booster.
Today I put my old booster back on. Std BJ8, rebuilt 14 years ago. Brakes are
now perfect again.
This preventative maintenance has hairs all over it....
So the question is.... What's wrong with my newly rebuilt BJ8 booster that it
doesn't release the vacuum????
Ideas? Your experiences??
Thanks in advance.
Best
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	healeys@autox.team.net
From: healey.nut@gmail.com
Date: Wed, 23 May 2012 10:28:48 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brake booster fail locks brakes on
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Chris -

The rubber seal used under the leather seal of the vaccum piston needs to be cut in about half.  The leather seal only needs a slight amount of pressure from the rubber to work properly.

Many kits use a rubber seal that's either too firm or too big, and it causes the piston and the can to lock shut.

Very common problem for years.

Hope that helps.

Alan

Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone 
www.blackberry.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Wed, 23 May 2012 20:18:56 
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Brake booster fail locks brakes on

Hey guys,
Ever had a BJ8 brake booster fail so it locks your brakes on?
My brake booster (BJ8 std type) effectively pushed the pedal high, and locked
all the brakes on. Solid
Pushing hard on the pedal released the brakes, but next time you touched them,
same thing. 4 wheels locked solid.
This isn't a diagnosis question. I had replaced calipers, hoses, rebuilt wheel
cylinders, rebuilt the brake master cyl, replaced the reseviour with a new
one, and fitted a rebuilt BJ8 Booster. fitted new linings and shoes. And a New
one way valve in the booster vacuum line.
Thats when the problem started...
So I re rebuilt master cylinder. Twice. Checked and double checked everyting
Checked the booster one way valve.
Glimmer of hope was disconnecting the "new" booster. Problem vanished - but no
booster.
Today I put my old booster back on. Std BJ8, rebuilt 14 years ago. Brakes are
now perfect again.
This preventative maintenance has hairs all over it....
So the question is.... What's wrong with my newly rebuilt BJ8 booster that it
doesn't release the vacuum????
Ideas? Your experiences??
Thanks in advance.
Best
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 23 04:33:02 2012
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  <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brake booster fail locks brakes on
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G'day Christopher

Yes had the same experience with a Mk2 Jaguar that used to be our everyday
car. Yes it locked solid on Pennant Hills Road in the middle of peak hour. I
was later told that that the booster was the same as a BJ8. I didn't know of
course as you would realise I'm from the era when real Austin-Healeys didn't
have brake boosters. ;)

Took it to a few so-called Jaguar experts, but most were just that -
'sperts'. In the end took it to Better Brakes in Parramatta who said that it
was a dooverhicky inside that wasn't letting the fluid return. I took that
as technical talk for valve. Anyway first of all they actually found the
booster in the car which is tucked away upside down and underneath the right
hand side innerguard and then rebuilt it. 

Worked like a charm after that.

Now Christopher as you have experienced a spanner wielding moment with your
Austin-Healey it seems to me that you should have taken photos of what you
have done and we can prepare an article for Flat Clat. What say you?

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock
Sent: Wednesday, 23 May 2012 8:19 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Brake booster fail locks brakes on

Hey guys,
Ever had a BJ8 brake booster fail so it locks your brakes on?
My brake booster (BJ8 std type) effectively pushed the pedal high, and
locked
all the brakes on. Solid
Pushing hard on the pedal released the brakes, but next time you touched
them,
same thing. 4 wheels locked solid.
This isn't a diagnosis question. I had replaced calipers, hoses, rebuilt
wheel
cylinders, rebuilt the brake master cyl, replaced the reseviour with a new
one, and fitted a rebuilt BJ8 Booster. fitted new linings and shoes. And a
New
one way valve in the booster vacuum line.
Thats when the problem started...
So I re rebuilt master cylinder. Twice. Checked and double checked everyting
Checked the booster one way valve.
Glimmer of hope was disconnecting the "new" booster. Problem vanished - but
no
booster.
Today I put my old booster back on. Std BJ8, rebuilt 14 years ago. Brakes
are
now perfect again.
This preventative maintenance has hairs all over it....
So the question is.... What's wrong with my newly rebuilt BJ8 booster that
it
doesn't release the vacuum????
Ideas? Your experiences??
Thanks in advance.
Best
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Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brake booster fail locks brakes on
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Thanks Alan, I'll investigate along those lines. So frustrating!!!

Hey Patrick,
I'll write you an article.
But My brake fluid dripping hands were not in the mood for a camera....
I can include a pic of my BJ8 stopped, which may infer the brakes were locked
on. I can also include a pic of the offending brake booster, which I didn't
assault with a large hammer, because I want to fix it.
Deal?
;-)
Best
Chris

On 23/05/2012, at 8:30 PM, "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> G'day Christopher
>
> Yes had the same experience with a Mk2 Jaguar that used to be our everyday
> car. Yes it locked solid on Pennant Hills Road in the middle of peak hour.
I
> was later told that that the booster was the same as a BJ8. I didn't know
of
> course as you would realise I'm from the era when real Austin-Healeys
didn't
> have brake boosters. ;)
>
> Took it to a few so-called Jaguar experts, but most were just that -
> 'sperts'. In the end took it to Better Brakes in Parramatta who said that
it
> was a dooverhicky inside that wasn't letting the fluid return. I took that
> as technical talk for valve. Anyway first of all they actually found the
> booster in the car which is tucked away upside down and underneath the
right
> hand side innerguard and then rebuilt it.
>
> Worked like a charm after that.
>
> Now Christopher as you have experienced a spanner wielding moment with your
> Austin-Healey it seems to me that you should have taken photos of what you
> have done and we can prepare an article for Flat Clat. What say you?
>
> Hey guys,
> Ever had a BJ8 brake booster fail so it locks your brakes on?
> My brake booster (BJ8 std type) effectively pushed the pedal high, and
> locked
> all the brakes on. Solid
> Pushing hard on the pedal released the brakes, but next time you touched
> them,
> same thing. 4 wheels locked solid.
> This isn't a diagnosis question. I had replaced calipers, hoses, rebuilt
> wheel
> cylinders, rebuilt the brake master cyl, replaced the reseviour with a new
> one, and fitted a rebuilt BJ8 Booster. fitted new linings and shoes. And a
> New
> one way valve in the booster vacuum line.
> Thats when the problem started...
> So I re rebuilt master cylinder. Twice. Checked and double checked
everyting
> Checked the booster one way valve.
> Glimmer of hope was disconnecting the "new" booster. Problem vanished - but
> no
> booster.
> Today I put my old booster back on. Std BJ8, rebuilt 14 years ago. Brakes
> are
> now perfect again.
> This preventative maintenance has hairs all over it....
> So the question is.... What's wrong with my newly rebuilt BJ8 booster that
> it
> doesn't release the vacuum????
> Ideas?
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brake booster fail locks brakes on
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G'day Christopher

Sounds like a deal to me.

Thanks

Patrick

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, 23 May 2012 8:39 PM
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brake booster fail locks brakes on

Thanks Alan, I'll investigate along those lines. So frustrating!!!

Hey Patrick,
I'll write you an article. 
But My brake fluid dripping hands were not in the mood for a camera.... 
I can include a pic of my BJ8 stopped, which may infer the brakes were
locked on. I can also include a pic of the offending brake booster, which I
didn't assault with a large hammer, because I want to fix it. 
Deal?
;-)
Best
Chris

On 23/05/2012, at 8:30 PM, "Patrick and Caroline Quinn"
<p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day Christopher
> 
> Yes had the same experience with a Mk2 Jaguar that used to be our everyday
> car. Yes it locked solid on Pennant Hills Road in the middle of peak hour.
I
> was later told that that the booster was the same as a BJ8. I didn't know
of
> course as you would realise I'm from the era when real Austin-Healeys
didn't
> have brake boosters. ;)
> 
> Took it to a few so-called Jaguar experts, but most were just that -
> 'sperts'. In the end took it to Better Brakes in Parramatta who said that
it
> was a dooverhicky inside that wasn't letting the fluid return. I took that
> as technical talk for valve. Anyway first of all they actually found the
> booster in the car which is tucked away upside down and underneath the
right
> hand side innerguard and then rebuilt it. 
> 
> Worked like a charm after that.
> 
> Now Christopher as you have experienced a spanner wielding moment with
your
> Austin-Healey it seems to me that you should have taken photos of what you
> have done and we can prepare an article for Flat Clat. What say you?
> 
> Hey guys,
> Ever had a BJ8 brake booster fail so it locks your brakes on?
> My brake booster (BJ8 std type) effectively pushed the pedal high, and
> locked
> all the brakes on. Solid
> Pushing hard on the pedal released the brakes, but next time you touched
> them,
> same thing. 4 wheels locked solid.
> This isn't a diagnosis question. I had replaced calipers, hoses, rebuilt
> wheel
> cylinders, rebuilt the brake master cyl, replaced the reseviour with a new
> one, and fitted a rebuilt BJ8 Booster. fitted new linings and shoes. And a
> New
> one way valve in the booster vacuum line.
> Thats when the problem started...
> So I re rebuilt master cylinder. Twice. Checked and double checked
everyting
> Checked the booster one way valve.
> Glimmer of hope was disconnecting the "new" booster. Problem vanished -
but
> no
> booster.
> Today I put my old booster back on. Std BJ8, rebuilt 14 years ago. Brakes
> are
> now perfect again.
> This preventative maintenance has hairs all over it....
> So the question is.... What's wrong with my newly rebuilt BJ8 booster that
> it
> doesn't release the vacuum????
> Ideas? 
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brake booster fail locks brakes on
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Haven't experienced this particular Healey joy (yet), but Alan's diagnosis sounds very likely.

In addition, the large vacuum cylinder is lined with a magical 'dry lubricant.'  Along with a too large/firm/stubborn 
seal, this lubricant may  be eroded enough to contribute to the problem, and should be restored.  I used one of these 
products (most likely, the 28A):

http://www.sandstromproducts.com/air-dry.html

Unfortunately, this stuff is beau coup expensive, and has hazmat shipping requirements.  One can would probably do 20 
boosters, and it expires after a couple years.

I don't know if there's a definitive way to tell if the lubricant should be renewed, but if the booster has over 100K 
miles it may need it.

Bob


On 5/23/2012 3:28 AM, healey.nut@gmail.com wrote:
> Chris -
>
> The rubber seal used under the leather seal of the vaccum piston needs to be cut in about half.  The leather seal only needs a slight amount of pressure from the rubber to work properly.
>
> Many kits use a rubber seal that's either too firm or too big, and it causes the piston and the can to lock shut.
>
> Very common problem for years.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Alan
>
> Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone
> www.blackberry.com
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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Caught a glimpse of a commercial last night on Velocity Channel saying Wayne was going to sell a Healey next week on Chasing Classic Cars. 


-- 
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Altadena, CA
BN6
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Large vacuum piston is sticking in the tank. This is a common problem  
when rebuilding the original style servos.
The rubber seal the goes under the leather seal is installed with the  
flat side in towards the piston.

Also make sure the inside of the vacuum tank is very clean and then  
you can spray it with a dry lube.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 23, 2012, at 3:18 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:

> Hey guys,
> Ever had a BJ8 brake booster fail so it locks your brakes on?
> My brake booster (BJ8 std type) effectively pushed the pedal high,  
> and locked
> all the brakes on. Solid
> Pushing hard on the pedal released the brakes, but next time you  
> touched them,
> same thing. 4 wheels locked solid.
> This isn't a diagnosis question. I had replaced calipers, hoses,  
> rebuilt wheel
> cylinders, rebuilt the brake master cyl, replaced the reseviour  
> with a new
> one, and fitted a rebuilt BJ8 Booster. fitted new linings and  
> shoes. And a New
> one way valve in the booster vacuum line.
> Thats when the problem started...
> So I re rebuilt master cylinder. Twice. Checked and double checked  
> everyting
> Checked the booster one way valve.
> Glimmer of hope was disconnecting the "new" booster. Problem  
> vanished - but no
> booster.
> Today I put my old booster back on. Std BJ8, rebuilt 14 years ago.  
> Brakes are
> now perfect again.
> This preventative maintenance has hairs all over it....
> So the question is.... What's wrong with my newly rebuilt BJ8  
> booster that it
> doesn't release the vacuum????
> Ideas? Your experiences??
> Thanks in advance.
> Best
> _______________________________________________
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> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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http://autos.yahoo.com/news/the-ten-slowest-sports-cars-of-all-time.html

-- 
Ira Erbs
IT CONSULTANT
Portland, OR

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thinking we used when we created them.
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From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
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that's a fun list, although I'm sure the Bond Minicar should be on
there, although it only has three wheels.

On Thu, May 24, 2012 at 1:39 AM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:
> http://autos.yahoo.com/news/the-ten-slowest-sports-cars-of-all-time.html
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> IT CONSULTANT
> Portland, OR
>
>  We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
> thinking we used when we created them.
>                                           -Albert Einstein
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It is has a motorcycle engine and three wheels, so not sure it counts....

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

 On May 23, 2012 9:17 PM, "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> that's a fun list, although I'm sure the Bond Minicar should be on
> there, although it only has three wheels.
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2012 at 1:39 AM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:
> > http://autos.yahoo.com/news/the-ten-slowest-sports-cars-of-all-time.html
> >
> > --
> > Ira Erbs
> > IT CONSULTANT
> > Portland, OR
> >
> >  We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
> > thinking we used when we created them.
> >                                           -Albert Einstein
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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G'day

So does a Morgan 3 wheeler fitted with a JAP V twin and they are quick and
are seen as sports cars. As are the more modern Moto Guzzi Trike.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Thursday, 24 May 2012 2:19 PM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 10 slowest car of all time

It is has a motorcycle engine and three wheels, so not sure it counts....

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant
Portland, OR

 On May 23, 2012 9:17 PM, "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> that's a fun list, although I'm sure the Bond Minicar should be on
> there, although it only has three wheels.
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2012 at 1:39 AM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:
> > http://autos.yahoo.com/news/the-ten-slowest-sports-cars-of-all-time.html
> >
> > --
> > Ira Erbs
> > IT CONSULTANT
> > Portland, OR
> >
> >  We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
> > thinking we used when we created them.
> >                                           -Albert Einstein
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
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The Ferrari Mondial was junk. You can buy them for under 20K

Sad to see the Midget in all it's caked on make up trying to look young.
Orange paint, huge decals and hideous bumpers thanks to you guys over the
other side of the pond!

The Fiero style looks pretty good from the angle in the photo,

How can you only get 150bhp from a 5.0 litre V8!!!

Derek

On Thu, May 24, 2012 at 5:36 AM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
> So does a Morgan 3 wheeler fitted with a JAP V twin and they are quick and
> are seen as sports cars. As are the more modern Moto Guzzi Trike.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of I Erbs
> Sent: Thursday, 24 May 2012 2:19 PM
> To: Alan Seigrist
> Cc: Ahealey help
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 10 slowest car of all time
>
> It is has a motorcycle engine and three wheels, so not sure it counts....
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
>  On May 23, 2012 9:17 PM, "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > that's a fun list, although I'm sure the Bond Minicar should be on
> > there, although it only has three wheels.
> >
> > On Thu, May 24, 2012 at 1:39 AM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> http://autos.yahoo.com/news/the-ten-slowest-sports-cars-of-all-time.html
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ira Erbs
> > > IT CONSULTANT
> > > Portland, OR
> > >
> > >  We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
> > > thinking we used when we created them.
> > >                                           -Albert Einstein
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> > >
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> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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Subject: [Healeys] Fitting BN1 front hub studs
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Hi listers

I am about to fit new studs to my new front hubs, I notice the old studs 
have a V indentation to peen them over, is this necessary and if so how 
is it done, or can I just use locktite?

thanks

Noel S, AHOC Qld
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fitting BN1 front hub studs
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Blue Loctite is best, actually.
------Original Message------
From: Noel and Helen standfast
Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
To: Healeys list
Subject: [Healeys] Fitting BN1 front hub studs
Sent: May 24, 2012 19:18

Hi listers

I am about to fit new studs to my new front hubs, I notice the old studs 
have a V indentation to peen them over, is this necessary and if so how 
is it done, or can I just use locktite?

thanks

Noel S, AHOC Qld
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Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone 
www.blackberry.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 10 slowest car of all time
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Huh ??  I did not see any car so equipped, Derek !?!

On 5/24/2012 3:46 AM, Derek Job wrote:
> How can you only get 150bhp from a 5.0 litre V8!!!
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From: "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith Brody
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I understand Smitty is driving back east (FL, GA) visiting friends.

Bruce
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dean Caccavo
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 11:33 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith Brody

Gary,
 
I saw his Panoz up on his lift as I drove by his shop a week or so ago.
Assumed he was working on it as it was outside.
 
I'll try to swing by
this week or weekend to see if he is around, but if he is not answering the
phone he is probably on the road:)
 
Dean 
 
Subject: [Healeys] Smith Brody
Message-ID: <8CF058C3A85EAF0-9A0-29360@webmail-m068.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Has anyone had any contact with
Smith Brody in the last month or so? We've called both of his telephone
numbers but haven't gotten any response.
Thanks.
Gary Anderson
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 10 slowest car of all time
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We had one of the 3 wheeler MOrgans with a JAP V Twin at our UBSCC car show 
last weekend.  The guy that owned it said it would do 65 miles per hour, but 
don't turn at that speed.   That would be fun to drive.
The car was in beautiful shape.  I wonder what they are worth?

Jerry 
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From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Austin Devons 4/S
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3 1950 Austin Devon package for sale NY Hudson Valley
z3xtq-2999079901@sale.craigslist.org
nfi

Best
JK
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From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Morgan trike
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Not sure that many are aware that Morgan is now building a very retro trike w/HD mc engine.
Best
JK


------------------------------
On Thu, May 24, 2012 11:06 PM EDT Jerry Costanzo wrote:

>We had one of the 3 wheeler MOrgans with a JAP V Twin at our UBSCC car show last weekend.  The guy that owned it said it would do 65 miles per hour, but don't turn at that speed.   That would be fun to drive.
>The car was in beautiful shape.  I wonder what they are worth?
>
>Jerry _______________________________________________
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See below for correct url

------------------------------
On Thu, May 24, 2012 11:09 AM EDT Jackson Krall wrote:

>3 1950 Austin Devon package for sale NY Hudson Valley
>nfi
>
>Best

>
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/2999079901.html
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Morgan trike
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Hi All,

I saw the Morgan Trike at the New York Auto Show.  Nice looking car, but I
would prefer an original.

Curt
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 24 15:19:17 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] rear disk brake conversion
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If anyone bought the turned down BMW rotors and mounting plates from the
lister/ attorney in Portland, Ore, would you please contact my off list? I
would like to hear you experience of installing. Thanks Ed Anderson
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Subject: [Healeys] gap
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What size should the gap be between the fast idling screw and the throttle
shaft lever?
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There's no real set here because it depends on how the throttle shaft has been drilled.  Usually, however, I back off touching the lever by about one full turn (after slow idle fully set).

------Original Message------
From: Dr. C. Rubino
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Subject: [Healeys] gap
Sent: May 26, 2012 22:54

What size should the gap be between the fast idling screw and the throttle
shaft lever?
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Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone 
www.blackberry.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 26 10:11:38 2012
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From: Robert Duquette <robertduquette@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: [Healeys] 6 volt Optima Batteries
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Hey all!



More on the Optima 6v batteries.  Much to my surprise; they almost kind of fit
in the existing battery trays.  If I cut off the battery mounting tabs they
would drop right in on the diagonal.  Then I could just fabricate a top
bracket and use the existing rods that held down the original type batteries.
Males tend to like symmetry, but I think I have to change the passenger side
one around to avoid having the battery cables cross over the ( future )
battery hold down.

www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/Opt6v_1.jpg
www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/Opt6v_2.jpg
www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/Opt6v_3.jpg


Instead of cutting the battery mounting tabs, I could cut a slot or slots in
the trays.  I believe the trays are cheaper to replace than the batteries and
my trays are a touch corroded.

Suggestions for the next step(s)?

Yes, I do have a replacement negative cable.  :)


TIA!
Robert Duquette
Ottawa ON Canada
1965 RHD BRG Austin-Healey Sprite ( project )
1967 RHD MG Midget ( aka: Miss Marple )
1955 Austin-Healey 100 BN1 ( aka: Carmen )

http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette/temp/2009FallTour.jpg
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The smaller the gap the quicker and better the hand-throttle operates when you pull the choke.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6
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Subject: [Healeys] Starter motor question
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When I took apart the starter motor to clean and rebuild it there 
were two bands on the upper part of the armature; the part at the 
opposite end from the commuter.

One band appears to be fiber and was broken. The other band is 
metallic but not magnetic; probably aluminum.

Does anyone know what the purpose of these bands are?

I know; another difficult questions. Extra points will be awarded to 
the person or persons that answer this question.

John
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 26 17:03:32 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 17:00:10 -0600
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I lost my mind a few months back and decided to restore a clapped out
forlorn Midget (sic) 1275 Sprite  Now I'd like to find it a new home or sell
my 100 and keep this . I really don't want or need multiple classic cars,
after all I get to drive other folks cars on a daily basis.. Grace was
interesting, BTW.

Anyway, here's the story of "Widget" the Midget
http://porterbikes.com/blog/austin-healey/losing-my-mind-1161

As of today there is $5000 in new stuff with tires and tubes being the last
big dollar items this next week. If you or a friend might have any interest
give me a call or email.. my phone # is shown in my contact info below..

DaveP 

 

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 26 17:54:01 2012
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Hi
I'd say it depends on how much you want the engine to rev when you 
enrichen the carburettors, e.g. use the choke.

Per in Sweden

healey.nut@gmail.com skrev 2012-05-26 17:15:
> There's no real set here because it depends on how the throttle shaft has been drilled.  Usually, however, I back off touching the lever by about one full turn (after slow idle fully set).
>
> ------Original Message------
> From: Dr. C. Rubino
> Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> To: healeylist
> Subject: [Healeys] gap
> Sent: May 26, 2012 22:54
>
> What size should the gap be between the fast idling screw and the throttle
> shaft lever?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 26 18:06:27 2012
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It depends on which carbs you have and then it depends on how much variation
is required to synchronize the air flow. It's not as simple as merely
setting the idle speed.
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Per Schoerner
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2012 5:54 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] gap

Hi
I'd say it depends on how much you want the engine to rev when you 
enrichen the carburettors, e.g. use the choke.

Per in Sweden
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Listers....Saw this recently in my area ...
Does anyone have experience with this problem and what happened and what was
your conclusion???

PROBLEM:
Motor with under 5K miles since full rebuild - never over rev'd.
One pushrod jumped out from rocker ball - expected nasty noises...
Tappet adjustment nut was tight after jump.
Pushrod slightly bent - as expected, but not enough to permit jump.
No follower damage.
No valve or piston damage.
Compression maintained.

SOLUTION:
Replaced pushrod and tappet screw.
Motor runs just fine.

What happened and why?????????
Opinions please ..............

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail@yahoo.com
 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 27 01:31:51 2012
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If you used bronze valve guides in you rebuild, the valve can get stuck when hot (in this case valve got stuck in closed position).

That's why I only used old boring iron guides!

Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone 
www.blackberry.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Sun, 27 May 2012 00:15:38 
To: Healey List<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Opinions please >>

Listers....Saw this recently in my area ...
Does anyone have experience with this problem and what happened and what was
your conclusion???

PROBLEM:
Motor with under 5K miles since full rebuild - never over rev'd.
One pushrod jumped out from rocker ball - expected nasty noises...
Tappet adjustment nut was tight after jump.
Pushrod slightly bent - as expected, but not enough to permit jump.
No follower damage.
No valve or piston damage.
Compression maintained.

SOLUTION:
Replaced pushrod and tappet screw.
Motor runs just fine.

What happened and why?????????
Opinions please ..............

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail@yahoo.com
 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 27 01:32:23 2012
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From: <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
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Can only assume valve got stuck in valve guide. Happens when clearance is not
right after rebuild or bronze guides are used.
Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Robert Blair
Gesendet: Sonntag, 27. Mai 2012 09:16
An: Healey List
Betreff: [Healeys] Opinions please >>

Listers....Saw this recently in my area ...
Does anyone have experience with this problem and what happened and what was
your conclusion???

PROBLEM:
Motor with under 5K miles since full rebuild - never over rev'd.
One pushrod jumped out from rocker ball - expected nasty noises...
Tappet adjustment nut was tight after jump.
Pushrod slightly bent - as expected, but not enough to permit jump.
No follower damage.
No valve or piston damage.
Compression maintained.

SOLUTION:
Replaced pushrod and tappet screw.
Motor runs just fine.

What happened and why?????????
Opinions please ..............

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 27 05:27:16 2012
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Hi Robert,
The mechanics of the problems with bronze guides in cast iron heads is
explained in my blog post
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=384
Probably worth reading.

-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*

On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 3:15 AM, Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Listers....Saw this recently in my area ...
> Does anyone have experience with this problem and what happened and what
> was
> your conclusion???
>
> PROBLEM:
> Motor with under 5K miles since full rebuild - never over rev'd.
> One pushrod jumped out from rocker ball - expected nasty noises...
> Tappet adjustment nut was tight after jump.
> Pushrod slightly bent - as expected, but not enough to permit jump.
> No follower damage.
> No valve or piston damage.
> Compression maintained.
>
> SOLUTION:
> Replaced pushrod and tappet screw.
> Motor runs just fine.
>
> What happened and why?????????
> Opinions please ..............
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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Subject: [Healeys] John and Grace
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Listers,

I don't remember if this had been mentioned before, or not. There's now 
a web page on ebay for Drive Away Cancer.

	http://cc.ebay.com/drive-away-cancer/

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] John and Grace
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John and Grace wil be in Louisville for Conclave. Ben Moore has produced a
promotional video that can be seen at http://youtu.be/L1jsMfiGLxw


Jim Werner
Louisville, KY



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 27, 2012 7:52 am
Subject: [Healeys] John and Grace


Listers,
I don't remember if this had been mentioned before, or not. There's now
 web page on ebay for Drive Away Cancer.
	http://cc.ebay.com/drive-away-cancer/
Cheers,
Bob Haskell
HCA 3000 Mk I registrar
ttp://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
uggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 27 06:28:53 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>, <rnbmail@yahoo.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
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The 2 previous answers are the general rule, the other is owners who
continue to insist on adding a lead additive to their gasoline. Short answer
is DON'T.
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


Can only assume valve got stuck in valve guide. Happens when clearance is
not
right after rebuild or bronze guides are used.
Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

\

Listers....Saw this recently in my area ...
Does anyone have experience with this problem and what happened and what was
your conclusion???

PROBLEM:
Motor with under 5K miles since full rebuild - never over rev'd.
One pushrod jumped out from rocker ball - expected nasty noises...
Tappet adjustment nut was tight after jump.
Pushrod slightly bent - as expected, but not enough to permit jump.
No follower damage.
No valve or piston damage.
Compression maintained.

SOLUTION:
Replaced pushrod and tappet screw.
Motor runs just fine.

What happened and why?????????
Opinions please ..............
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Subject: [Healeys] Temp Gauge
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My temp gauge has lost calibration; it indicates 160deg when it should read 180 (I tried a different thermostat with no change). Otherwise, it seems to be working (but reading 20deg low). 

Can the indicator needle be pulled (carefully) off and (re) set to give correct temperature? 

TIA, 
Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
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All--

Having been a willing captive of Michael's when we did the 2008 and 2009 *Targa
Newfoundland* rallies I have had this explained to me in person, and it's
difficult to win an argument with Michael.

OTOH the fellow who does the heads on my race cars feels that bronze guides
offer some advantages, at least for racing applications.  He simply allows
for the different coefficients with a couple of extra thousands of
clearance and I have not yet stuck a valve with bronze guides...(fingers
crossed).

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 7:27 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> Hi Robert,
> The mechanics of the problems with bronze guides in cast iron heads is
> explained in my blog post
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=384
> Probably worth reading.
>
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
>
> On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 3:15 AM, Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Listers....Saw this recently in my area ...
> > Does anyone have experience with this problem and what happened and what
> > was
> > your conclusion???
> >
> > PROBLEM:
> > Motor with under 5K miles since full rebuild - never over rev'd.
> > One pushrod jumped out from rocker ball - expected nasty noises...
> > Tappet adjustment nut was tight after jump.
> > Pushrod slightly bent - as expected, but not enough to permit jump.
> > No follower damage.
> > No valve or piston damage.
> > Compression maintained.
> >
> > SOLUTION:
> > Replaced pushrod and tappet screw.
> > Motor runs just fine.
> >
> > What happened and why?????????
> > Opinions please ..............
> >
> > Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail@yahoo.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp Gauge
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You should check the temp with an infrared gun (Harbor Freight for 30 or so
bucks). Aim at the thermostat housing. Then if you still feel it is off,
remove the sensor and see if there is crud around it. I cannot think of
anything that would cause the needle to have moved. If you don't want to get
an infrared, I can bring one at the next Healey event we both attend. Let me
know where you are headed and I'll let you know if I'm going.
Rich Kahn
So. Lake Tahoe

> Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 13:23:03 +0000
> From: bspidell@comcast.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Temp Gauge
>
> My temp gauge has lost calibration; it indicates 160deg when it should read
180 (I tried a different thermostat with no change). Otherwise, it seems to be
working (but reading 20deg low).
>
> Can the indicator needle be pulled (carefully) off and (re) set to give
correct temperature?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
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Bob, I'm assuming you are referring to your BJ8.  The needle can be pulled
off and reset wherever you want it, but there are two real calibration
points as indicated by two small dots on the face of the gauge between 120 -
160 and at about 212. Although I have no proof, I believe the factory used
these calibration points with specific input voltages in order to make the
gauge reasonably accurate over its full range.  If you pull off the needle
and put it on 180 (if you know for sure the sensor is sensing 180), then the
gauge might be inaccurate everywhere else.  
The best way to check calibration, although a real pain, is to remove the
gauge from the dash and check the gauge reading while the sensor is in
boiling water at sea level.  I did this with my gauge and found it reading
about 10 deg. high.  After pulling the needle off and repositioning it
between the two dots at 212, the gauge was accurate enough for me through
its range.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 9:23 AM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Temp Gauge

My temp gauge has lost calibration; it indicates 160deg when it should read
180 (I tried a different thermostat with no change). Otherwise, it seems to
be working (but reading 20deg low). 

Can the indicator needle be pulled (carefully) off and (re) set to give
correct temperature? 

TIA, 
Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 27 09:04:07 2012
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Agreed, and thanks for the offer. At home, I would check against a thermometer; however, I'm on the road (Squamish, Canada) and need to improvise. I put a new thermostat in--in a motel parking lot--and get exactly the same reading (160 with two 180deg thermostats) so at this point I'm convinced the gauge is reading 20deg low. Before I left, I pulled the gauge out a half-inch or so to replace the O-ring. I think I might have stretched or bent something, but IIRC the gauge was reading low before. Also, the gauge indicates 192deg when the engine is turned off, and it used to indicate 212deg exactly. The speedometers are largely calibrated by moving the needle, might try same on the temp gauge. 

Off topic, but I bought a set of wiper blades from Moss and installed before I left knowing we'd likely get rain (we did). Unfortunately, the blades drag so badly the wiper motor couldn't move them. Installed some old ones and motor works fine (the Moss blades--the rubber part--are about a half-inch wide and don't seem appropriate). Anybody else experience this phenomenon? Having a hard time finding replacement blades; thinking of trying 'Trico Classic,' but not sure if they'll fit the wiper arm (which, FWIW, appears to be a 5mm). Got an Anco brand 10" blade--unfortunately the store only had one--and it works great (with an adapter for the arm) but it's black! 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----



You should check the temp with an infrared gun (Harbor Freight for 30 or so bucks). Aim at the thermostat housing. Then if you still feel it is off, remove the sensor and see if there is crud around it. I cannot think of anything that would cause the needle to have moved. If you don't want to get an infrared, I can bring one at the next Healey event we both attend. Let me know where you are headed and I'll let you know if I'm going. 
Rich Kahn 
So. Lake Tahoe 




> My temp gauge has lost calibration; it indicates 160deg when it should read 180 (I tried a different thermostat with no change). Otherwise, it seems to be working (but reading 20deg low). 
> 
> Can the indicator needle be pulled (carefully) off and (re) set to give correct temperature? 
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re: " I believe the factory used 
these calibration points with specific input voltages in order to make the 
gauge reasonably accurate over its full range" 

AFAIK, the gauge is entirely 'mechanical,' driven by expanding ether moving a Bourdon tube. Thanks for the tip on the needle, I think if I can get 180 when running stable I'd be happy. 

I know the speedos have a 'calibration' point--a small white dot at about (negative) 5MPH--but I don't see any dots on the temp gauge. Mine used to read 212 exactly when I shut the engine down, so it was probably accurate before. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Bob, I'm assuming you are referring to your BJ8. The needle can be pulled 
off and reset wherever you want it, but there are two real calibration 
points as indicated by two small dots on the face of the gauge between 120 - 
160 and at about 212. Although I have no proof, I believe the factory used 
these calibration points with specific input voltages in order to make the 
gauge reasonably accurate over its full range. If you pull off the needle 
and put it on 180 (if you know for sure the sensor is sensing 180), then the 
gauge might be inaccurate everywhere else. 
The best way to check calibration, although a real pain, is to remove the 
gauge from the dash and check the gauge reading while the sensor is in 
boiling water at sea level. I did this with my gauge and found it reading 
about 10 deg. high. After pulling the needle off and repositioning it 
between the two dots at 212, the gauge was accurate enough for me through 
its range. 

Steve Byers 
HBJ8L/36666 
BJ8 Registry 
Havelock, NC USA 
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Could be the sensor itself--the original sensor on my E-Type finally failed and now I have gone thru 2 aftermarket ones that did not send the correct temp reading to the gauge.  Using an infrared gun, when the indicated temp on the guage was slightly less than 110C, the actual temp was about 84C.  I'm still truing to find on that works properly.

tom

---- Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com> wrote: 

=============
You should check the temp with an infrared gun (Harbor Freight for 30 or so
bucks). Aim at the thermostat housing. Then if you still feel it is off,
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp Gauge
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Bob, I guess I had my brain in neutral when I said bvoltagesb.  O.K.,
input bpressuresb or whatever signal the factory used to calibrate them.
The Bourdon tube drives a mechanical movement for the needle, and it must have
some calibration adjustment.  It has been a long time since I had a temp gauge
opened up, but most Smiths gauges have an internal way to adjust the
sensitivity of their response if you know which inputs to use.
212 is the normal position of the needle when the engine is shut down hot, as
I have observed on many BJ8s.  My temp gauge has both sets of white dots.  The
oil pressure side of the gauge, interestingly, has no dots unless the black
dot I see on the white 60 psi mark is a real dot.  The fuel gauge has single
white dots near B<, B=, and B>.

If your concern is just to get a 180 reading while youbre on your road trip,
then why not just make the mental correction?  What really matters is when it
changes from its normal steady state, mostly when it suddenly starts reading
higher than normal so you can check for actual overheating.


I think I read somewhere a comment by Geoff Healey that it was a mistake to
put numbers on the temp gauge.  My MG Midget has only C (old), N (ormal), and
H (ot).

Have fun on your trip!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA



From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 11:08 AM
To: BJ8 Healeys
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp Gauge

re: " I believe the factory used
these calibration points with specific input voltages in order to make the
gauge reasonably accurate over its full range"

AFAIK, the gauge is entirely 'mechanical,' driven by expanding ether moving a
Bourdon tube.  Thanks for the tip on the needle, I think if I can get 180 when
running stable I'd be happy.

I know the speedos have a 'calibration' point--a small white dot at about
(negative) 5MPH--but I don't see any dots on the temp gauge.  Mine used to
read 212 exactly when I shut the engine down, so it was probably accurate
before.

Bob
--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
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I had the same problem on my BJ8 and it got progressively worse.

I found that the capillary tube was shorting against the Overdrive relay and
basically welding the tube shut.



Jim Werner
Louisville, KY



-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: bspidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 27, 2012 10:26 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp Gauge


You should check the temp with an infrared gun (Harbor Freight for 30 or so
ucks). Aim at the thermostat housing. Then if you still feel it is off,
emove the sensor and see if there is crud around it. I cannot think of
nything that would cause the needle to have moved. If you don't want to get
n infrared, I can bring one at the next Healey event we both attend. Let me
now where you are headed and I'll let you know if I'm going.
ich Kahn
o. Lake Tahoe
> Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 13:23:03 +0000
 From: bspidell@comcast.net
 To: healeys@autox.team.net
 Subject: [Healeys] Temp Gauge

 My temp gauge has lost calibration; it indicates 160deg when it should read
80 (I tried a different thermostat with no change). Otherwise, it seems to be
orking (but reading 20deg low).

 Can the indicator needle be pulled (carefully) off and (re) set to give
orrect temperature?

 TIA,
 Bob


 --------------------------------
 Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
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Subject: [Healeys] Passing through Portland,OR?
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If you are passing though Portland, let me know if you need a pitstip, help
or want to meet up for a quick howdy. I live just south of downtown and a
mile form I- 5.
Wish I could make it to Randevous....
Ira Erbs
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FWIW 
There is a little rubber strap that is used to secure the  capillary tube 
to the breather pipe. This should prevent shorting of the  capillary tube 
against the O/D relay, 
This may have occurred on occasion to others as well for failing to  
replace a little $2 item that really does serve a protective purpose. (A zip tie  
may work as a temporary fix.)
OEM part number is ACH 8979.
 
Marion Brantley
Tampa Bay AHC
 
In a message dated 5/27/2012 12:25:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jwhlyadv@aol.com writes:

I had  the same problem on my BJ8 and it got progressively worse.

I found that  the capillary tube was shorting against the Overdrive relay 
and
basically  welding the tube shut.



Jim Werner
Louisville,  KY



-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Kahn  <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: bspidell <bspidell@comcast.net>;  healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 27, 2012 10:26  am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp Gauge


You should check the temp  with an infrared gun (Harbor Freight for 30 or so
ucks). Aim at the  thermostat housing. Then if you still feel it is off,
emove the sensor and  see if there is crud around it. I cannot think of
nything that would cause  the needle to have moved. If you don't want to get
n infrared, I can bring  one at the next Healey event we both attend. Let me
now where you are  headed and I'll let you know if I'm going.
ich Kahn
o. Lake  Tahoe
> Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 13:23:03 +0000
From:  bspidell@comcast.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Temp  Gauge

My temp gauge has lost calibration; it indicates 160deg when it  should read
80 (I tried a different thermostat with no change). Otherwise,  it seems to 
be
orking (but reading 20deg low).

Can the indicator  needle be pulled (carefully) off and (re) set to give
orrect  temperature?

TIA,
Bob


--------------------------------
Bob  Spidell - San Jose,  CA
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Opinions please >>
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Possibly a stuck valve in the open position so the push rod could become 
dislodged. When the engine cooled or got enough lubrication after a 
while from starting up it came unstuck. Had the engine been standing 
inoperative for a while?
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 27-5-2012 9:15, Robert Blair schreef:
> Listers....Saw this recently in my area ...
> Does anyone have experience with this problem and what happened and what was
> your conclusion???
>
> PROBLEM:
> Motor with under 5K miles since full rebuild - never over rev'd.
> One pushrod jumped out from rocker ball - expected nasty noises...
> Tappet adjustment nut was tight after jump.
> Pushrod slightly bent - as expected, but not enough to permit jump.
> No follower damage.
> No valve or piston damage.
> Compression maintained.
>
> SOLUTION:
> Replaced pushrod and tappet screw.
> Motor runs just fine.
>
> What happened and why?????????
> Opinions please ..............
>
> Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail@yahoo.com
>
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>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
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E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
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Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Brake Caliper?
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I am trying to install a rebuilt caliper. The damn mounting bolts don't line
up on this new one. These holes are a bit further apart than the original
caliper off my car. Here's a photo of both.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2559358890100422800JsyaCY The one on the rotor
is the new one. The one in the pan is the original off my car. Is this an
original MK I caliper in the pan? Is the one on the rotor for a MK III?

Thanks,



Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC

http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY
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Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 21:57:11 +0200
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] BN7 Brake Caliper?
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The one in the pan is a MkI caliper. The one on the rotor looks like one which
may fit to a MKIII, but aftermarket (Ford Capri etc.) not original.
Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von scott willis
Gesendet: Sonntag, 27. Mai 2012 21:48
An: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] BN7 Brake Caliper?

I am trying to install a rebuilt caliper. The damn mounting bolts don't line
up on this new one. These holes are a bit further apart than the original
caliper off my car. Here's a photo of both.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2559358890100422800JsyaCY The one on the rotor
is the new one. The one in the pan is the original off my car. Is this an
original MK I caliper in the pan? Is the one on the rotor for a MK III?

Thanks,



Scott Willis
Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
59 MGA
66 E-Type FHC

http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY
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Subject: [Healeys] Randevous
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Howdy,
I need a flywheel transported to rondevous. If you are going through
Portland and can transport for me, let me know off list.
Thanks
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Brake Caliper?
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After cars get old, the aftermarket folks start to combine there offerings, 
with the goal that "one size fits all".  I had the problem on my Honda, 
which is newer (1990), with the brake calipers being just different enough 
to cause a problem.

Mike
=======================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "scott willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 12:47 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Brake Caliper?


>I am trying to install a rebuilt caliper. The damn mounting bolts don't 
>line
> up on this new one. These holes are a bit further apart than the original
> caliper off my car. Here's a photo of both.
> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2559358890100422800JsyaCY The one on the 
> rotor
> is the new one. The one in the pan is the original off my car. Is this an
> original MK I caliper in the pan? Is the one on the rotor for a MK III?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Scott Willis
> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
> 59 MGA
> 66 E-Type FHC
>
> http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
> BG Euro Classics Car Club President
> Bowling Green, KY
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722@comcast.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Brake Caliper?
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Do the pads fit? Early calipers have a different shape pad.
On May 27, 2012 12:47 PM, "scott willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com> wrote:

> I am trying to install a rebuilt caliper. The damn mounting bolts don't
> line
> up on this new one. These holes are a bit further apart than the original
> caliper off my car. Here's a photo of both.
> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2559358890100422800JsyaCY The one on the
> rotor
> is the new one. The one in the pan is the original off my car. Is this an
> original MK I caliper in the pan? Is the one on the rotor for a MK III?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Scott Willis
> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
> 59 MGA
> 66 E-Type FHC
>
> http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
> BG Euro Classics Car Club President
> Bowling Green, KY
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Subject: [Healeys] hard steering
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My 100-6 steering seem very hard to maneuver lately.  ..

up on the lift .it seems to move easily and smoothly.. any ideas.

 

jp
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Low tire pressure?

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jeff Pelletier
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 6:06 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] hard steering

My 100-6 steering seem very hard to maneuver lately.  ..

up on the lift .it seems to move easily and smoothly.. any ideas.
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My very first (1st) thought also, Skip <G> ! ! !

Ed
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www.justbrits.com
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ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ*_/

On 5/27/2012 5:18 PM, Skip Saunders wrote:
> Low tire pressure?
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From: "Jeff Pelletier" <jeff@pellfam.com>
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that's what its like... but ... done that

-----Original Message-----
From: Skip Saunders [mailto:tfsbj7@mindspring.com] 
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 6:19 PM
To: jeff@pellfam.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] hard steering

Low tire pressure?

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jeff Pelletier
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 6:06 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] hard steering

My 100-6 steering seem very hard to maneuver lately.  ..

up on the lift .it seems to move easily and smoothly.. any ideas.
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Hi Jeff,
I would suggest that you check that grease is getting to the thrust
bearing, at the top of the swivel axle when the upper king pin bush is
being lubricated.
If either upper king pin bush is installed incorrectly the grease way
(groove in the inner bush surface) may direct grease away from the trust
bearing rather than forcing grease into it.
Over time the thrust bearing will become dry and steering effort will
increase significantly.

-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*

On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 6:05 PM, Jeff Pelletier <jeff@pellfam.com> wrote:

> My 100-6 steering seem very hard to maneuver lately.  ..
>
> up on the lift .it seems to move easily and smoothly.. any ideas.
>
>
>
> jp
> _______________________________________________
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Very nice video !!!!

Enjoy the 2012 Conclave !!!

Gilbert Gauthier

Lucky BT7

Le 2012-05-27 ` 08:15, Jim Werner a icrit :

> John and Grace wil be in Louisville for Conclave. Ben Moore has produced a
> promotional video that can be seen at http://youtu.be/L1jsMfiGLxw
>
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
> To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, May 27, 2012 7:52 am
> Subject: [Healeys] John and Grace
>
>
> Listers,
> I don't remember if this had been mentioned before, or not. There's now
> web page on ebay for Drive Away Cancer.
> 	http://cc.ebay.com/drive-away-cancer/
> Cheers,
> Bob Haskell
> HCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> ttp://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
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Hi Jeff ! !

<<  On 5/27/2012 6:16 PM, Jeff Pelletier wrote:
                         that's what its like... but ... done that >>

OK, then take the car out for say 5 minutes, return and inflate to 35 
or 40 psi on the fronts.
make SURE that rears are both the same (whatever you normally run - 
rears only).

Go for a drive and report back to us.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Brake Caliper?
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The one with all the lettering visible is the the type 14, early 3000 caliper.
The other caliper looks like a BJ8, Mk  III, caliper.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> From: ahpowered@hotmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 14:47:55 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Brake Caliper?
>
> I am trying to install a rebuilt caliper. The damn mounting bolts don't
line
> up on this new one. These holes are a bit further apart than the original
> caliper off my car. Here's a photo of both.
> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2559358890100422800JsyaCY The one on the
rotor
> is the new one. The one in the pan is the original off my car. Is this an
> original MK I caliper in the pan? Is the one on the rotor for a MK III?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Scott Willis
> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA
> 59 MGA
> 66 E-Type FHC
>
> http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
> BG Euro Classics Car Club President
> Bowling Green, KY
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Subject: [Healeys] Yellow healey in multnomah village
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I briefly spoke to a guy with a yellow big healey today. I was driving my
dodge truck. Are you on the list?
Send me contact info off list if you are.
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Subject: [Healeys] Dust covers-ball joints
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The rubber ball joint dust covers on my ground up restoration are less than
three years old and are already cracked and falling off.  I can't believe the
poor quality!  These were purchased from Moss.  The car is always garaged and
has been driven less than a thousand miles since the covers were installed
new.

Can anyone suggest a good quality source?  I have heard that a domestic car
part is a good fit but don't know the brand. I have replaced these on many
domestic cars and had them last well over ten years.

Thanks very much for any suggestions.
G. Alton Hess
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Subject: [Healeys] Starter motor question - more info
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One band is non-magnetic, aluminum or zinc, the other was phenolic I 
believe. At one point I believe they were one band with the phenolic 
one under the other band. At any rate I glued the bands together with 
the metal one on the outside. They may act to retain the armature 
windings, I have no idea otherwise.

John

At 12:43 PM 5/26/2012 -0700, john spaur wrote:
>When I took apart the starter motor to clean and rebuild it there 
>were two bands on the upper part of the armature; the part at the 
>opposite end from the commuter.
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Subject: [Healeys] Engine paint
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I painted the engine and lots of related bits today!

John Spaur
'62 BT7
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Today many "rubber" parts suffer from low quality. Sometimes theese parts
begin to crack DURING the restoration.
No comment.

Gergo


2012/5/28 Ghess4 <ghess4@cox.net>

> The rubber ball joint dust covers on my ground up restoration are less than
> three years old and are already cracked and falling off.  I can't believe
> the
> poor quality!  These were purchased from Moss.  The car is always garaged
> and
> has been driven less than a thousand miles since the covers were installed
> new.
>
> Can anyone suggest a good quality source?  I have heard that a domestic car
> part is a good fit but don't know the brand. I have replaced these on many
> domestic cars and had them last well over ten years.
>
> Thanks very much for any suggestions.
> G. Alton Hess
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Ghess4 <ghess4@cox.net>
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dust covers-ball joints
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Mr. Hess -

For this type of stuff, always refer to John Sim's great website:

http://www.healey6.com/replacement_parts.htm

And towards the bottom of the list, you will see:

Steering Rod Boot
Hyundai Dealer Parts
56828-21010
Cover-Dust Tie Rod

Apparently this boot is a carbon copy of the original.

Best,

Alan

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 11:43 AM, Ghess4 <ghess4@cox.net> wrote:
> The rubber ball joint dust covers on my ground up restoration are less than
> three years old and are already cracked and falling off.  I can't believe
the
> poor quality!  These were purchased from Moss.  The car is always garaged
and
> has been driven less than a thousand miles since the covers were installed
> new.
>
> Can anyone suggest a good quality source?  I have heard that a domestic car
> part is a good fit but don't know the brand. I have replaced these on many
> domestic cars and had them last well over ten years.
>
> Thanks very much for any suggestions.
> G. Alton Hess
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I have just rebuild the steering box of my 3000 MK2 BT7. In the centre
position it turns harder. This I learnt is by intension. But can anybody tell
me how much harder should it turn in the centre position? Now as I did it I
can really feel the harder movement for a quarter of a steering wheel turn
around the centre position. Is this too much tension on the adjusting screw?
Shall I release it a bit to have an easy turn also around the centre
position?
Who knows?

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany
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The manual notes that the center drag is measured by a spring scale on 
the steering wheel of so many ounces.  But basically it should be just 
noticeable with the wheels off the ground.  Sounds like you have the 
adjustment too tight.  Or, you can get a constant clearance worm from 
Dennis Welsh.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 5/28/2012 3:24 AM, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote:
> I have just rebuild the steering box of my 3000 MK2 BT7. In the centre
> position it turns harder. This I learnt is by intension. But can anybody tell
> me how much harder should it turn in the centre position? Now as I did it I
> can really feel the harder movement for a quarter of a steering wheel turn
> around the centre position. Is this too much tension on the adjusting screw?
> Shall I release it a bit to have an easy turn also around the centre
> position?
> Who knows?
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
> _______________________________________________
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You need to adjust the steering with the wheels off the ground. Jack the car
up and support on the lower control arms so there is no stress on the tie
rods. Then loosen the adjuster nut on the steering box. Then have an assistant
move the steering wheel back and forth to find the tight spot. Now either
tighten or loosen the adjuster screw until there is just a little drag in the
center position and lock the jam nut down.

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca





On May 28, 2012, at 5:32 AM, John Vrugtman wrote:

> The manual notes that the center drag is measured by a spring scale on the
steering wheel of so many ounces.  But basically it should be just noticeable
with the wheels off the ground.  Sounds like you have the adjustment too
tight.  Or, you can get a constant clearance worm from Dennis Welsh.
>
> John
> 64/66 BJ8s
>
> On 5/28/2012 3:24 AM, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote:
>> I have just rebuild the steering box of my 3000 MK2 BT7. In the centre
>> position it turns harder. This I learnt is by intension. But can anybody
tell
>> me how much harder should it turn in the centre position? Now as I did it
I
>> can really feel the harder movement for a quarter of a steering wheel turn
>> around the centre position. Is this too much tension on the adjusting
screw?
>> Shall I release it a bit to have an easy turn also around the centre
>> position?
>> Who knows?
>>
>> Josef Eckert
>> Konigswinter/Germany
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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David, John,
Many thanks. The car is still with the wheels off the ground. The car is under
restoration and I have just installed the steering and links. This little drag
you mention, to my opinion it's a little too much on my car. I hesitate to
loosen the adjuster screw again as all is painted and when doing it it breaks
off the paintwork. What can happen when the drag is a little more than
necessary. Does it destroy the peg or both worm and peg?
Thanks,
Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von David Nock British Car Specialists
Gesendet: Montag, 28. Mai 2012 17:18
An: John Vrugtman
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box

You need to adjust the steering with the wheels off the ground. Jack the car
up and support on the lower control arms so there is no stress on the tie
rods. Then loosen the adjuster nut on the steering box. Then have an assistant
move the steering wheel back and forth to find the tight spot. Now either
tighten or loosen the adjuster screw until there is just a little drag in the
center position and lock the jam nut down.

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 28 12:47:16 2012
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Gail,
I installed the Hyundai part#56828-21010 in September of 2006 and the boots show no cracking or other distress 5-1/2 years later.

I bought mine from a local dealer.

--
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6

>>>
Gail Hess wrote:

The rubber ball joint dust covers on my ground up restoration are less than
three years old and are already cracked and falling off.  I can't believe the
poor quality!  These were purchased from Moss.  The car is always garaged and
has been driven less than a thousand miles since the covers were installed
new.

Can anyone suggest a good quality source?  I have heard that a domestic car
part is a good fit but don't know the brand. I have replaced these on many
domestic cars and had them last well over ten years.

Thanks very much for any suggestions.
G. Alton Hess
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I also have the Hyundai dust covers on two of my cars for many years. The
quality is much superior to any other dust covers you can get.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Steve B. Gerow
Gesendet: Montag, 28. Mai 2012 20:48
An: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Dust covers-ball joints

Gail,
I installed the Hyundai part#56828-21010 in September of 2006 and the boots
show no cracking or other distress 5-1/2 years later.

I bought mine from a local dealer.

--
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6

>>>
Gail Hess wrote:

The rubber ball joint dust covers on my ground up restoration are less than
three years old and are already cracked and falling off.  I can't believe the
poor quality!  These were purchased from Moss.  The car is always garaged and
has been driven less than a thousand miles since the covers were installed
new.

Can anyone suggest a good quality source?  I have heard that a domestic car
part is a good fit but don't know the brand. I have replaced these on many
domestic cars and had them last well over ten years.

Thanks very much for any suggestions.
G. Alton Hess
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 28 13:31:52 2012
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working on a friends BT7 and have a couple of electrical problems.  one is that the signal light flasher bulb stays on when the signal light selector is in the off position.  it flashes correctly when left or right signal is selected.  it is not a lucas flasher and i think that might be the problem, but need confirmation.   also, replaced a bad sending unit and can only get guage to read 1/4 tank when full.  made sure of good ground and cleaned terminal in back of guage to no effect.  any ideas.  TIA, hjim
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
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Unless you plan on trailering your car and not driving it then there 
is no need to adjust the steering. However, it appears that you 
intend to drive it which means you will periodically need to adjust 
the steering. With that in mind, and not intending to have a concours 
car, I powder coated the steering box (it could be painted) and zinc 
plated the filler and the adjusting nut so I would not have to worry 
about chipping the paint when I adjusted the box or when I fill it up.

Just a practical thought.

John

At 06:27 PM 5/28/2012 +0200, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote:
>David, John,
>Many thanks. The car is still with the wheels off the ground. The car is under
>restoration and I have just installed the steering and links. This little drag
>you mention, to my opinion it's a little too much on my car. I hesitate to
>loosen the adjuster screw again as all is painted and when doing it it breaks
>off the paintwork. What can happen when the drag is a little more than
>necessary. Does it destroy the peg or both worm and peg?
>Thanks,
>Josef Eckert
>Konigswinter/Germany
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
>Auftrag von David Nock British Car Specialists
>Gesendet: Montag, 28. Mai 2012 17:18
>An: John Vrugtman
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
>
>You need to adjust the steering with the wheels off the ground. Jack the car
>up and support on the lower control arms so there is no stress on the tie
>rods. Then loosen the adjuster nut on the steering box. Then have an assistant
>move the steering wheel back and forth to find the tight spot. Now either
>tighten or loosen the adjuster screw until there is just a little drag in the
>center position and lock the jam nut down.
>
>David Nock
>British Car Specialists
>Stockton Ca
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John,
Sorry I have not mentioned, the car is going to become a Concours car and only
might be occasionally driven.
So it would hurt me to chip the paint.
Conclusion for me, I will leave it as it is and taste how it feels on the
road. With very low yearly mileages it would not cause a real damage.

Josef

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von john spaur
Gesendet: Montag, 28. Mai 2012 20:37
An: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box

Unless you plan on trailering your car and not driving it then there is no
need to adjust the steering. However, it appears that you intend to drive it
which means you will periodically need to adjust the steering. With that in
mind, and not intending to have a concours car, I powder coated the steering
box (it could be painted) and zinc plated the filler and the adjusting nut so
I would not have to worry about chipping the paint when I adjusted the box or
when I fill it up.

Just a practical thought.

John

At 06:27 PM 5/28/2012 +0200, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote:
>David, John,
>Many thanks. The car is still with the wheels off the ground. The car
>is under restoration and I have just installed the steering and links.
>This little drag you mention, to my opinion it's a little too much on
>my car. I hesitate to loosen the adjuster screw again as all is painted
>and when doing it it breaks off the paintwork. What can happen when the
>drag is a little more than necessary. Does it destroy the peg or both worm
and peg?
>Thanks,
>Josef Eckert
>Konigswinter/Germany
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
>[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von David Nock
>British Car Specialists
>Gesendet: Montag, 28. Mai 2012 17:18
>An: John Vrugtman
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
>
>You need to adjust the steering with the wheels off the ground. Jack
>the car up and support on the lower control arms so there is no stress
>on the tie rods. Then loosen the adjuster nut on the steering box. Then
>have an assistant move the steering wheel back and forth to find the
>tight spot. Now either tighten or loosen the adjuster screw until there
>is just a little drag in the center position and lock the jam nut down.
>
>David Nock
>British Car Specialists
>Stockton Ca
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From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Healeys@autox.team.net, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com
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>From Wikipedia:

"When Hyundai wanted to develop their own car, they hired George Turnbull, the former Managing Director of Austin Morris at British Leyland.
 He in turn hired five other top British car engineers.They were Kenneth
 Barnett body design, engineers John Simpson and Edward Chapman, John Crosthwaite ex-BRM as chassis engineer and Peter Slater as chief development engineer."

Coincidence?

Rick



Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Mon, 5/28/12, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com> wrote:

From: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Dust covers-ball joints
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Monday, May 28, 2012, 2:58 PM

I also have the Hyundai dust covers on two of my cars for many years. The
quality is much superior to any other dust covers you can get.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany


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Well, those early Hyundais were absolute rubbish and very outdated, so 
no coincidence. These days they are fairly good cars for relatively 
little money.
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 28-5-2012 22:33, HealeyRick schreef:
> > From Wikipedia:
>
> "When Hyundai wanted to develop their own car, they hired George Turnbull, the former Managing Director of Austin Morris at British Leyland.
>   He in turn hired five other top British car engineers.They were Kenneth
>   Barnett body design, engineers John Simpson and Edward Chapman, John Crosthwaite ex-BRM as chassis engineer and Peter Slater as chief development engineer."
>
> Coincidence?
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Mon, 5/28/12, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com<Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>  wrote:
>
> From: Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com<Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] Dust covers-ball joints
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, May 28, 2012, 2:58 PM
>
> I also have the Hyundai dust covers on two of my cars for many years. The
> quality is much superior to any other dust covers you can get.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
>
>
> --
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>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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Josef and fellow Listers,

Concours cars, especially Austin Healeys, should be driven often and
enjoyed. Otherwise why bother ;-)

Cheers,

Curt Arndt
Austin Healey Concours Committee
'55 BN1, '60 AN5:{)

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 1:05 PM, <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com> wrote:

> John,
> Sorry I have not mentioned, the car is going to become a Concours car and
> only
> might be occasionally driven.
> So it would hurt me to chip the paint.
> Conclusion for me, I will leave it as it is and taste how it feels on the
> road. With very low yearly mileages it would not cause a real damage.
>
> Josef
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> Im
> Auftrag von john spaur
> Gesendet: Montag, 28. Mai 2012 20:37
> An: healeys@autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
>
> Unless you plan on trailering your car and not driving it then there is no
> need to adjust the steering. However, it appears that you intend to drive
> it
> which means you will periodically need to adjust the steering. With that in
> mind, and not intending to have a Concours car, I powder coated the
> steering
> box (it could be painted) and zinc plated the filler and the adjusting nut
> so
> I would not have to worry about chipping the paint when I adjusted the box
> or
> when I fill it up.
>
> Just a practical thought.
>
> John
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ghess4" <ghess4@cox.net>
To: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dust covers-ball joints


>
> Greetings and Thanks to all of you who pointed out the Hyundai Dust 
> Covers. Yes Alan, you are sure right about John Sim's website and I've 
> benefited greatly from the wealth of information there and it appears that 
> I had (or perhaps continue to have at age 82) a lapse of memory!  Thanks 
> again to you all.
> G.(Gale) Alton Hess
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com>
> To: "Ghess4" <ghess4@cox.net>
> Cc: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 11:26 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dust covers-ball joints
>
>
> Mr. Hess -
>
> For this type of stuff, always refer to John Sim's great website:
>
> http://www.healey6.com/replacement_parts.htm
>
> And towards the bottom of the list, you will see:
>
> Steering Rod Boot
> Hyundai Dealer Parts
> 56828-21010
> Cover-Dust Tie Rod
>
> Apparently this boot is a carbon copy of the original.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
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Wholeheartedly agree.  May as well never change the oil or grease the
suspension for fear of getting it dirty or scraping paint removing the filler
cap or dipstick.

Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
Sent from my iPhone

On May 28, 2012, at 5:04 PM, "Curt/Nancy Arndt" <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:

> Josef and fellow Listers,
>
> Concours cars, especially Austin Healeys, should be driven often and
> enjoyed. Otherwise why bother ;-)
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt Arndt
> Austin Healey Concours Committee
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5:{)
>
> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 1:05 PM, <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com> wrote:
>
>> John,
>> Sorry I have not mentioned, the car is going to become a Concours car and
>> only
>> might be occasionally driven.
>> So it would hurt me to chip the paint.
>> Conclusion for me, I will leave it as it is and taste how it feels on the
>> road. With very low yearly mileages it would not cause a real damage.
>>
>> Josef
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> Im
>> Auftrag von john spaur
>> Gesendet: Montag, 28. Mai 2012 20:37
>> An: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
>>
>> Unless you plan on trailering your car and not driving it then there is no
>> need to adjust the steering. However, it appears that you intend to drive
>> it
>> which means you will periodically need to adjust the steering. With that
in
>> mind, and not intending to have a Concours car, I powder coated the
>> steering
>> box (it could be painted) and zinc plated the filler and the adjusting nut
>> so
>> I would not have to worry about chipping the paint when I adjusted the box
>> or
>> when I fill it up.
>>
>> Just a practical thought.
>>
>> John
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 28 17:49:02 2012
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Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 19:47:37 -0400
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C'mon guys....if I saw a fellow judge trying to deduct a point because a
chip was found on an adjusting nut surface of a car being judged in a
Concours event, I would personally be inclined to cuff that judge up side of
the head for attempting to do so.

No wonder these preconceived ideas of "Concours" gives the whole thing such
a negative aura.

Or maybe that's one of the differences between a North American properly
sanctioned Concours judging and "others".

Rich Chrysler


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com
Sent: May-28-12 4:06 PM
To: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box

John,
Sorry I have not mentioned, the car is going to become a Concours car and
only might be occasionally driven.
So it would hurt me to chip the paint.
Conclusion for me, I will leave it as it is and taste how it feels on the
road. With very low yearly mileages it would not cause a real damage.

Josef

Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box

Unless you plan on trailering your car and not driving it then there is no
need to adjust the steering. However, it appears that you intend to drive it
which means you will periodically need to adjust the steering. With that in
mind, and not intending to have a concours car, I powder coated the steering
box (it could be painted) and zinc plated the filler and the adjusting nut
so I would not have to worry about chipping the paint when I adjusted the
box or when I fill it up.

Just a practical thought.

John

At 06:27 PM 5/28/2012 +0200, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote:
>David, John,
>Many thanks. The car is still with the wheels off the ground. The car 
>is under restoration and I have just installed the steering and links.
>This little drag you mention, to my opinion it's a little too much on 
>my car. I hesitate to loosen the adjuster screw again as all is painted 
>and when doing it it breaks off the paintwork. What can happen when the 
>drag is a little more than necessary. Does it destroy the peg or both 
>worm
and peg?
>Thanks,
>Josef Eckert
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box (100 shim)
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Speaking of adjusting tension on the steering box, I was looking on my 
pegboard in the garage today and hanging there was one used shim used to 
adjust the stearing box on the early 100s. No use for it anymore so...

Free to a good home, I will even spring for postage in USA.

Greg Lemon 
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Subject: [Healeys] Memorial Day
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G'day

 

This has absolutely nothing to do with Austin-Healeys, but can someone tell
me how widespread the observance of Memorial Day is?

 

I am trying to make contact with a business colleague in LA, but no answer.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick
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Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memorial Day
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Very.  Most business are closed today.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 5:01 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> This has absolutely nothing to do with Austin-Healeys, but can someone tell
> me how widespread the observance of Memorial Day is?
>
>
>
> I am trying to make contact with a business colleague in LA, but no answer.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 28 18:13:57 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memorial Day
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Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:
> G'day
>
>
>
> This has absolutely nothing to do with Austin-Healeys, but can someone tell
> me how widespread the observance of Memorial Day is?
>
>
>

It is one of the bigger holidays here, marking the start of the summer 
season
with Labor Day the other bookmark.  So a LOT of folks take the day off, do
fun things and forget about work until Tuesday.  Or later.  Here's an 
excerpt
from a message to another list I wrote earlier:


On a different note, Bailey's will be closed this week while Mike does
some vacationing in Oregon, so I'll have time to work on stuff, like
getting the Team.Net archives working properly again.  I know many
folks miss that functionality.   One thing I have been meaning to do for
quite some time is reply to all those who contributed to Team.Net
during the fund drive or just because.  So be patient, I've only done a
handful so far, you may hear  from me soon if you've made use of the
donate link!


The place I work is closed down all week.  We'll see just how much actually
gets done the next week at The Fat Chance Garage or at Team.Net's
Intergalactic headquarters.

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 28 18:28:05 2012
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	Mon, 28 May 2012 19:27:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 20:27:23 -0400
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Subject: [Healeys] Carroll Shelby
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For those of you who get the Channel, the Velocity cable channel has been
running a 3 hour special (broken into one hour segments) on Carroll Shelby.
Been running for several days now. Do not know how much longer.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 28 18:28:37 2012
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It's huge  - a very big deal.  It's a national holiday - a three day weekend
to honor our military veterans. The Indy 500 is always on Memorial Day
weekend. Banks are closed, there is no mail. Courts are closed as are all
city, county, state and federal offices. Most businesses are closed.  Special
events are scheduled everywhere.


Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> From: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 10:01:28 +1000
> Subject: [Healeys] Memorial Day
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> This has absolutely nothing to do with Austin-Healeys, but can someone tell
> me how widespread the observance of Memorial Day is?
>
>
>
> I am trying to make contact with a business colleague in LA, but no answer.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memorial Day
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G'day

 

Many thanks for letting me know about Memorial Day. I wait until tomorrow to
contact my colleague.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

 

  _____  

From: richard mayor [mailto:mayorrichard@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, 29 May 2012 10:28 AM
To: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au; healeys
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Memorial Day

 

It's huge  - a very big deal.  It's a national holiday - a three day weekend
to honor our military veterans. The Indy 500 is always on Memorial Day
weekend. Banks are closed, there is no mail. Courts are closed as are all
city, county, state and federal offices. Most businesses are closed.
Special events are scheduled everywhere.
  

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon



> From: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 10:01:28 +1000
> Subject: [Healeys] Memorial Day
> 
> G'day
> 
> 
> 
> This has absolutely nothing to do with Austin-Healeys, but can someone
tell
> me how widespread the observance of Memorial Day is?
> 
> 
> 
> I am trying to make contact with a business colleague in LA, but no
answer.
> 
> 
> 
> Hoo Roo
> 
> 
> 
> Patrick
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: 'richard mayor' <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>, 'healeys'
	<healeys@autox.team.net>, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
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Patrick,

Just to clarify a bit, Memorial Day is a federal holiday and celebrated
nationwide.  And although it's generally seen as the first weekend of summer
its real significance is to honor our countrymen and women who have died in
battle.  Veteran's Day (Nov. 11) is our day to respect those who serve and
have served in our military.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Mon, 5/28/12, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memorial Day
To: "'richard mayor'" <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>, "'healeys'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, May 28, 2012, 8:40 PM

G'day



Many thanks for letting me know about Memorial Day. I wait until tomorrow to
contact my colleague.



Hoo Roo



Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia
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G'day

 

Two very important days.

 

I can see how Armistice Day (Nov 11th) could easily evolved into Veteran's
Day. Does the country observe a minute's silence at 11am on the 11th
November like they do here? Armistice Day is not a holiday in Australia.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

 

  _____  

From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrick@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, 29 May 2012 11:13 AM
To: 'richard mayor'; 'healeys'; Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memorial Day

 


Patrick,

Just to clarify a bit, Memorial Day is a federal holiday and celebrated
nationwide.  And although it's generally seen as the first weekend of summer
its real significance is to honor our countrymen and women who have died in
battle.  Veteran's Day (Nov. 11) is our day to respect those who serve and
have served in our military.

Rick

Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Mon, 5/28/12, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:


From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memorial Day
To: "'richard mayor'" <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>, "'healeys'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, May 28, 2012, 8:40 PM

G'day



Many thanks for letting me know about Memorial Day. I wait until tomorrow to
contact my colleague.



Hoo Roo



Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Memorial Day Video 2012
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Thanks Ed

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:00 PM, " Just Brits " Shop <shop@justbrits.com>wrote:

> This is too good not to share, folks.
>
> "Non Sibi Sed Patriae" - "Semper Fortis" - "Anchors Aweigh"
>
> Ed
> XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject:        Memorial Day Video 2012
> Date:   Mon, 28 May 2012 13:59:45 -0700
> From:   Rick Feibusch
>
>
>
>
>
> Nice short film - submitted by Robert W. of Marina del Rey, CA
>
> http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2487638612433437293&q=Vetera
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memorial Day
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As a former social studies teacher, I would hazard a guess that many
Americans do not realize that Veterans day has it's roots in
the Armistice of WWI and do not know that 11:11:11 means.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 6:18 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> Two very important days.
>
>
>
> I can see how Armistice Day (Nov 11th) could easily evolved into Veteran's
> Day. Does the country observe a minute's silence at 11am on the 11th
> November like they do here? Armistice Day is not a holiday in Australia.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
>
>
>
>  _____
>
> From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrick@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, 29 May 2012 11:13 AM
> To: 'richard mayor'; 'healeys'; Patrick and Caroline Quinn
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memorial Day
>
>
>
>
> Patrick,
>
> Just to clarify a bit, Memorial Day is a federal holiday and celebrated
> nationwide.  And although it's generally seen as the first weekend of
> summer
> its real significance is to honor our countrymen and women who have died in
> battle.  Veteran's Day (Nov. 11) is our day to respect those who serve and
> have served in our military.
>
> Rick
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Mon, 5/28/12, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
> wrote:
>
>
> From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memorial Day
> To: "'richard mayor'" <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>, "'healeys'"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, May 28, 2012, 8:40 PM
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> Many thanks for letting me know about Memorial Day. I wait until tomorrow
> to
> contact my colleague.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
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-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
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Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 18:52:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: 'richard mayor' <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>, 'healeys'
	<healeys@autox.team.net>, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
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Armistice Day was renamed Veterans Day following the Korean War.B  I remember
keeping a minute of silence as a kid after marching in Veterans Day parades,
but it's been some time since I've been anywhere that's observed it.B  Wonder
if it's done in the military?

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Mon, 5/28/12, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Memorial Day
To: "'HealeyRick'" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>, "'richard mayor'"
<mayorrichard@hotmail.com>, "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, May 28, 2012, 9:18 PM




 
 

 

 

 











Gbday 

 B  

Two very important days. 

 B  

I
can see how Armistice Day (Nov 11th) could easily evolved
into Veteranbs
Day. Does the country observe a minutebs silence at
11am on the 11th
November like they do here? Armistice Day is not a
holiday in Australia .
B  

Hoo Roo 

 B  

Patrick Quinn 

Sydney, Australia 

B 
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"Memorial Day is a federal holiday observed annually in the United States on 
the last Monday of May.[1] Memorial Day is a day of remembering the men and 
women who died while serving in the United States Armed Forces.[2] Formerly 
known as Decoration Day, it originated after the American Civil War to 
commemorate the Union soldiers who died in the Civil War. By the 20th 
century Memorial Day had been extended to honor all Americans who have died 
in all wars..."

(Wikipedia)

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'HealeyRick'" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>; "'richard mayor'" 
<mayorrichard@hotmail.com>; "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memorial Day


> G'day
>
>
>
> Two very important days.
>
>
>
> I can see how Armistice Day (Nov 11th) could easily evolved into Veteran's
> Day. Does the country observe a minute's silence at 11am on the 11th
> November like they do here? Armistice Day is not a holiday in Australia.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
>
>
>
>  _____
>
> From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrick@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, 29 May 2012 11:13 AM
> To: 'richard mayor'; 'healeys'; Patrick and Caroline Quinn
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memorial Day
>
>
>
>
> Patrick,
>
> Just to clarify a bit, Memorial Day is a federal holiday and celebrated
> nationwide.  And although it's generally seen as the first weekend of 
> summer
> its real significance is to honor our countrymen and women who have died 
> in
> battle.  Veteran's Day (Nov. 11) is our day to respect those who serve and
> have served in our military.
>
> Rick
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On Mon, 5/28/12, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> 
> wrote:
>
>
> From: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Memorial Day
> To: "'richard mayor'" <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>, "'healeys'"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, May 28, 2012, 8:40 PM
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> Many thanks for letting me know about Memorial Day. I wait until tomorrow 
> to
> contact my colleague.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 28 20:00:46 2012
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When I was a kid growing up in a sleepy little town in Southwest Michigan
we still called it Decoration Day.  And it was not just for veterans, but a
day to remember all those who have passed.

Were that I was still living there, this weekend I would have gone out
to the Silver Creek church and put flowers on the graves of my mother, 
father
and brother.

mjb.
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"Armistice Day (which overlaps with Remembrance Day) is on 11 November and 
commemorates the armistice signed between the Allies of World War I and 
Germany at Compihgne, France, for the cessation of hostilities on the 
Western Front of World War I, which took effect at eleven o'clock in the 
morning-the "eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month" of 
1918...

After World War II, the name of the holiday was changed to Veterans Day in 
the United States and to Remembrance Day in the countries of the British 
Commonwealth of Nations. Armistice Day remains an official holiday in France 
and Belgium..."

(Again, Wikipedia)

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 28 22:21:23 2012
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To: Rich Chrysler <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
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I remember David Koch driving his Factory 100M from Ontario to Texas Conclave,
(2004) going Gold and then driving it home.

Some minor scratches and nicks but as he told me"I fixed it once, I can do it
again". He loved driving that car. (RIP)

I plan to do a concours car and I plan on driving it.

Randy

On May 28, 2012, at 7:47 PM, Rich Chrysler wrote:

> C'mon guys....if I saw a fellow judge trying to deduct a point because a
> chip was found on an adjusting nut surface of a car being judged in a
> Concours event, I would personally be inclined to cuff that judge up side
of
> the head for attempting to do so.
>
> No wonder these preconceived ideas of "Concours" gives the whole thing such
> a negative aura.
>
> Or maybe that's one of the differences between a North American properly
> sanctioned Concours judging and "others".
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com
> Sent: May-28-12 4:06 PM
> To: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net; Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
>
> John,
> Sorry I have not mentioned, the car is going to become a Concours car and
> only might be occasionally driven.
> So it would hurt me to chip the paint.
> Conclusion for me, I will leave it as it is and taste how it feels on the
> road. With very low yearly mileages it would not cause a real damage.
>
> Josef
>
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
>
> Unless you plan on trailering your car and not driving it then there is no
> need to adjust the steering. However, it appears that you intend to drive
it
> which means you will periodically need to adjust the steering. With that in
> mind, and not intending to have a concours car, I powder coated the
steering
> box (it could be painted) and zinc plated the filler and the adjusting nut
> so I would not have to worry about chipping the paint when I adjusted the
> box or when I fill it up.
>
> Just a practical thought.
>
> John
>
> At 06:27 PM 5/28/2012 +0200, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote:
>> David, John,
>> Many thanks. The car is still with the wheels off the ground. The car
>> is under restoration and I have just installed the steering and links.
>> This little drag you mention, to my opinion it's a little too much on
>> my car. I hesitate to loosen the adjuster screw again as all is painted
>> and when doing it it breaks off the paintwork. What can happen when the
>> drag is a little more than necessary. Does it destroy the peg or both
>> worm
> and peg?
>> Thanks,
>> Josef Eckert
> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 28 22:22:48 2012
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
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I remember David Koch driving his Factory 100M from Ontario to Texas Conclave,
(2004) going Gold and then driving it home.

Some minor scratches and nicks but as he told me"I fixed it once, I can do it
again". He loved driving that car. (RIP)

I plan to do a concours car and I plan on driving it.

Randy

On May 28, 2012, at 7:47 PM, Rich Chrysler wrote:

> C'mon guys....if I saw a fellow judge trying to deduct a point because a
> chip was found on an adjusting nut surface of a car being judged in a
> Concours event, I would personally be inclined to cuff that judge up side
of
> the head for attempting to do so.
>
> No wonder these preconceived ideas of "Concours" gives the whole thing such
> a negative aura.
>
> Or maybe that's one of the differences between a North American properly
> sanctioned Concours judging and "others".
>
> Rich Chrysler
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com
> Sent: May-28-12 4:06 PM
> To: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net; Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
>
> John,
> Sorry I have not mentioned, the car is going to become a Concours car and
> only might be occasionally driven.
> So it would hurt me to chip the paint.
> Conclusion for me, I will leave it as it is and taste how it feels on the
> road. With very low yearly mileages it would not cause a real damage.
>
> Josef
>
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
>
> Unless you plan on trailering your car and not driving it then there is no
> need to adjust the steering. However, it appears that you intend to drive
it
> which means you will periodically need to adjust the steering. With that in
> mind, and not intending to have a concours car, I powder coated the
steering
> box (it could be painted) and zinc plated the filler and the adjusting nut
> so I would not have to worry about chipping the paint when I adjusted the
> box or when I fill it up.
>
> Just a practical thought.
>
> John
>
> At 06:27 PM 5/28/2012 +0200, Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com wrote:
>> David, John,
>> Many thanks. The car is still with the wheels off the ground. The car
>> is under restoration and I have just installed the steering and links.
>> This little drag you mention, to my opinion it's a little too much on
>> my car. I hesitate to loosen the adjuster screw again as all is painted
>> and when doing it it breaks off the paintwork. What can happen when the
>> drag is a little more than necessary. Does it destroy the peg or both
>> worm
> and peg?
>> Thanks,
>> Josef Eckert
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 29 00:51:02 2012
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From: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Subject: [Healeys] Big Healey Rack Steering >>
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Having previously owned an MGB/Sprite, I appreciate rack steering ...

Does anyone have experience with an aftermarket rack steering conversion for
the Big Healey from an outfit called Britaniaparts.com?  Just saw an older ad
in Healey mag of March 11.

The rack idea appeals to me as I like sensible driving improvements .... but I
would not want it to be a nightmare.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail@yahoo.com
 
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From: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Exhaust System Results >>> Nice.
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My BJ8 exhaust system finally had too many patches, and so it was time for a
new system. It was a Burgess, and may have been original.
As my car is lowered at the rear to avoid the excess whell well gap, I often
bottomed the rear cross boxes on shopping mall bumps....

Questions therefore were:
1.  Stainless or Mild?
2.  Rear cross boxes or not?
Decision was stainless [got a great deal on Bell], and NO rear cross boxes.
Tail pipes now emerge on drivers side like earlier cars, but retained the BJ8
signature curl up.

Result is exellent - very nice healthy Healey burble, but not at all noisy.
And better ground clearance.  Except for you serious concours folks, I would
recommend omitting the cross boxes at replacement time. Looks good, sounds
good, and cheaper.

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail@yahoo.com
 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 29 04:29:51 2012
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From: <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 12:30:03 +0200
Thread-Topic: Adjusting tension steering box
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Curt, Rich and others
Perhaps my question wasn`t clear enough. I just have the feeling in centre
position my steering box is a bit too tight. Perhaps its just right as it is.
I am just looking for a way to verify, prove, before I am loosing the
adjusting screw and there is no need to do it. Perhaps there is no defined way
to check if its just right or too tight. I just wanted to get some expertise
knowledge how to find out.

The other question is, is it allowed to drive a classic car only occasionally
and not over long distances? Or is it too be denunciated by anybody? I think
the owner has good reasons to do it the one or other way. For me its much more
fun to work, restore a car than driving it later. But that`s me. And I own 5
classic cars, 3 Austin-Healeys, and I can choose which to drive. And I have a
modern car and a trailer.
Here in centre Europe (UK included) its really no fun at all to drive a
classic car along the motorways over long distances. All who know the extreme
heavy traffic here, may understand that its much more convenient to load a
classic on a tailer and take it to the event that way. On motorways its even
dangerous to go with a classic car which cannot cope with modern days traffic
(there are plenty of modern 200+ horsepower cars around and drivers play with
you) . Heavy congestions are really normal around the cities and industrial
zones and we have too many of them. When there is free flow of traffic (that
can happen from time to time, mostly during night) you are an obstacle for
modern cars and even trucks are overtaking or stay extremely close to your
rear bumper - not nice. So no fun to drive a Healey on motorways over longer
distances. Nobody takes care of you in your small classic car. Sorry, but when
spending such a lot of money in a car I do not want to have it damaged in any
way. So I take the easy way. I do not want to be a hero. Hero`s die early.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

Von: Curt/Nancy Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt@gmail.com]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 29. Mai 2012 00:05
An: Eckert, Josef
Cc: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net<mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>;
Healeys@autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net>
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box

Josef and fellow Listers,

Concours cars, especially Austin Healeys, should be driven often and enjoyed.
Otherwise why bother ;-)

Cheers,

Curt Arndt
Austin Healey Concours Committee
'55 BN1, '60 AN5:{)
On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 1:05 PM,
<Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com<mailto:Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>> wrote:
John,
Sorry I have not mentioned, the car is going to become a Concours car and
only
might be occasionally driven.
So it would hurt me to chip the paint.
Conclusion for me, I will leave it as it is and taste how it feels on the
road. With very low yearly mileages it would not cause a real damage.

Josef
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 29 11:57:14 2012
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From: <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com>
To: <dan@warner-associates.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 19:55:27 +0200
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
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On our roads are full of trucks from all over Europe, Rumania, Bulgaria,
Poland, Ukraine, Lithuania, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Greek, Italy,
Spain, Portugal, France, Belgium, Holland, UK, Sweden, Denmark, Norway,
Finland and so on. Most of them cannot understand or even read German
language, not even English language. What does it help to do a sign or
sticker? ;-)

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Dan Stromquist [mailto:dan@warner-associates.com]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 29. Mai 2012 17:06
An: Eckert, Josef; Healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box

Put a bumper sticker/sign on your car that says "I have bad brakes and bad
brake lights" or similar.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 5:30 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box

Curt, Rich and others
Perhaps my question wasn`t clear enough. I just have the feeling in centre
position my steering box is a bit too tight. Perhaps its just right as it is.
I am just looking for a way to verify, prove, before I am loosing the
adjusting screw and there is no need to do it. Perhaps there is no defined way
to check if its just right or too tight. I just wanted to get some expertise
knowledge how to find out.

The other question is, is it allowed to drive a classic car only occasionally
and not over long distances? Or is it too be denunciated by anybody? I think
the owner has good reasons to do it the one or other way.
For me its much more fun to work, restore a car than driving it later. But
that`s me. And I own 5 classic cars, 3 Austin-Healeys, and I can choose which
to drive. And I have a modern car and a trailer.
Here in centre Europe (UK included) its really no fun at all to drive a
classic car along the motorways over long distances. All who know the extreme
heavy traffic here, may understand that its much more convenient to load a
classic on a tailer and take it to the event that way. On motorways its even
dangerous to go with a classic car which cannot cope with modern days traffic
(there are plenty of modern 200+ horsepower cars around and drivers play with
you) . Heavy congestions are really normal around the cities and industrial
zones and we have too many of them. When there is free flow of traffic (that
can happen from time to time, mostly during night) you are an obstacle for
modern cars and even trucks are overtaking or stay extremely close to your
rear bumper - not nice. So no fun to drive a Healey on motorways over longer
distances. Nobody takes care of you in your small classic car. Sorry, but when
spending such a lot of money in a car I do not want to have it damaged in any
way. So I take the easy way. I do not want to be a hero. Hero`s die early.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 29 12:32:08 2012
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One of my Triumph buddies told about a certain TR6 at an early Vintage
Triumph Register convention.  The VTR rules say that for a car to be
eligible for an award in the Concours, it must participate in one of the
moving events.

So at the autocross these folks push a TR6 out of the enclosed trailer.
They put in oil, brake fluid, antifreeze.  The owner made one autocross
run, basically doing the whole course at idle speed - the bare minimum
to qualify.  Then they drained the oil, drained the antifreeze, drained the
brake fluid then carefully pushed the car back into the trailer.

Wow.

mjb.
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From: F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Drivers vs. Shiners
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all i can say is "pity"
ron

On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 11:36 AM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:
>
> One of my Triumph buddies told about a certain TR6 at an early Vintage
> Triumph Register convention.  The VTR rules say that for a car to be
> eligible for an award in the Concours, it must participate in one of the
> moving events.
>
> So at the autocross these folks push a TR6 out of the enclosed trailer.
> They put in oil, brake fluid, antifreeze.  The owner made one autocross
> run, basically doing the whole course at idle speed - the bare minimum
> to qualify.  Then they drained the oil, drained the antifreeze, drained
> the
> brake fluid then carefully pushed the car back into the trailer.
>
> Wow.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Drivers vs. Shiners
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F Ronald Rader wrote:
> all i can say is "pity"
>

Really.  And once back in the trailer, it stayed locked up in there until
they rolled it out on the show grounds.  Rumor has it that was the one
and only VTR meet the attended.  Seems they just didn't quite fit in with
the usual VTR crowd, you know, the other 2 - 3 hundred folks who spent
the weekend proudly DRIVING their Triumphs.

mjb.
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Subject: [Healeys] Looking for T9 gearbox in the USA
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I am looking for a Ford Type 9 Gearbox located in the USA. Any leads ?

Thanks
 
Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571) 321 3740
Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
Skype: jovivago


www.musme.net


Bogota, Colombia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 29 14:00:49 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Cylinders
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Hi,
Need to replace the rear w/c s on my 1958 BN4. I don't really want to have
them sleeved, because I don't want to wait. I have had problems with repro
cylinders on my Landy 88. I could sure use some guidance about what would be
the best cylinder. I like to save a buck, but not at tthe expense of safety.
Thanks, Alan
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Subject: [Healeys] Advice on selling a BJ8
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All,

I have a 1967 BJ8. It has won many awards and is in excellent mechanical and
cosmetic condition with many upgrades. All original parts available as well as
extras.

Conditions dictate that it is time to sell the Healey and I would like to get
a fair price.

Can anyone point me to what they have found to be a good resource to sell this
car wether it be a publication, auction or other? Please respond directly.

Thank you in advance for any guidance you can provide.
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Josef,

OK point taken, HOWEVER... all that means to me is that you take your
Healey to the *N|rburgring* every month to make certain it's running
correctly ;-^)

Cheers,

Curt

On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 10:55 AM, <Josef.Eckert@t-systems.com> wrote:

> On our roads are full of trucks from all over Europe, Rumania, Bulgaria,
> Poland, Ukraine, Lithuania, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Greek,
> Italy,
> Spain, Portugal, France, Belgium, Holland, UK, Sweden, Denmark, Norway,
> Finland and so on. Most of them cannot understand or even read German
> language, not even English language. What does it help to do a sign or
> sticker? ;-)
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Dan Stromquist [mailto:dan@warner-associates.com]
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 29. Mai 2012 17:06
> An: Eckert, Josef; Healeys@autox.team.net
> Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Adjusting tension steering box
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From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Drivers vs. Shiners
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Mark,

Gosh, most Jaguar Concours folks I know aren't even that anal.

Curt

On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 11:51 AM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> F Ronald Rader wrote:
>
>> all i can say is "pity"
>>
>>
> Really.  And once back in the trailer, it stayed locked up in there until
> they rolled it out on the show grounds.  Rumor has it that was the one
> and only VTR meet the attended.  Seems they just didn't quite fit in with
> the usual VTR crowd, you know, the other 2 - 3 hundred folks who spent
> the weekend proudly DRIVING their Triumphs.
>
>
> mjb.
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 14:30:12 -0700
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white post and apple hydraulics sell rebuilt units with a good reputation

On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 1:00 PM, Alan Grossman <agrossman@pacific.net>wrote:

> Hi,
> Need to replace the rear w/c s on my 1958 BN4. I don't really want to have
> them sleeved, because I don't want to wait. I have had problems with repro
> cylinders on my Landy 88. I could sure use some guidance about what would
> be
> the best cylinder. I like to save a buck, but not at tthe expense of
> safety.
> Thanks, Alan
> _______________________________________________
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-- 
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
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Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 14:56:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Kuzman <jjkbj7@yahoo.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?= <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>, Healey
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for T9 gearbox in the USA
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John Esposito at Quantum Mechanics has them.
http://www.quantumechanics.com/index.php
 
John Kuzman
________________________________
 From: Josi Vicente Vargas
<jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday,
May 29, 2012 2:52 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for T9 gearbox in the USA
  
I
am looking for a Ford Type 9 Gearbox located in the USA. Any leads ?

Thanks
Josi Vicente Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571) 321 3740
Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
Skype:
jovivago


www.musme.net


Bogota, Colombia
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Subject: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine
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Gbday list

Anyone know what a 100 engine (or engine & transmission) weighs?

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
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From: "Curt/Nancy Arndt" <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine
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Peter,

Don't quote me, but off the top of my head I believe it's 550 lbs.
Supposedly more than a Ford 289 V8.

Cheers,

Curt

On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 3:32 PM, Peter & Veronica
<greylinn@ozemail.com.au>wrote:

> Gb day list
>
> Anyone know what a 100 engine (or engine & transmission) weighs?
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine
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Hi All;
Engine 611 lbs (277kg)
Gearbox std 79.5 lbs (36.027 kg)
Gearbox W/overdrive 117 lbs  (52.907kg)
>From workshop manual AKD 1179H
Mike Maloney 66 HLY
On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 7:04 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>wrote:

> Peter,
>
> Don't quote me, but off the top of my head I believe it's 550 lbs.
> Supposedly more than a Ford 289 V8.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 3:32 PM, Peter & Veronica
> <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>wrote:
>
> > Gb day list
> >
> > Anyone know what a 100 engine (or engine & transmission) weighs?
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Peter Linn
> > Brisbane Oz
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> >
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 29 18:12:52 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] shows on Velocity channel
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Listers,

On Discovery's Velocity channel:

1) tonight's episode of Chasing Classic Cars at 10 PM (EDT) auctioning a 
1961 3000 Mk I BN7

2) June 10th at 10 PM (EDT) Deadliest Crashes - "The 1955 Le Mans Disaster".

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
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From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] water pump bearings
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I have my two water pumps with 3/8" pulley's disassembled; one 
original with the oil screw and one without. The new one without the 
oil hole appears to have permanently lubricated bearings. They both 
have a small shaft through bearings that are fitted to a larger shaft 
that is pressed into the water pump housing. The other does not but 
both shafts with the bearings appear very similar.

The bearings in the new shaft seam smooth with a little bit of end 
play back and forth. About .008 - it's hard to measure. Does that 
sound like it is good?

Is the shaft just pressed through the bearings? That's what it looks 
like. Are the bearings available? Any thoughts on rebuilding the pump?

John Spaur
San Jose, CA

'62 BT7
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 12:08:49 +1000
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] water pump bearings
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Hi John,
I sent you a pic separately. the bearing and shaft are one piece on a bj8
pump.
Just rebuilt mine.
Biggest issues are you really need a press to get the brg out of the housing,
and a press to get the impeller off the brg. You can improvise with a vice,
but you run the risk of breaking the impeller. And usually, the back of the
impeller needs to be cleaned up on a lathe where the seal goes.
I rebuilt the old original pump with the grease drilling. All good.
Problem with the new pumps is they are county......
Mike Salter has brgs and seals for bj8 pumps
Best
Chris
PS. Yes Patrick, I took pics and wrote an article for you.... ;-)

Sent from my iPhone

On 30/05/2012, at 11:52 AM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I have my two water pumps with 3/8" pulley's disassembled; one original with
the oil screw and one without. The new one without the oil hole appears to
have permanently lubricated bearings. They both have a small shaft through
bearings that are fitted to a larger shaft that is pressed into the water pump
housing. The other does not but both shafts with the bearings appear very
similar.
>
> The bearings in the new shaft seam smooth with a little bit of end play back
and forth. About .008 - it's hard to measure. Does that sound like it is
good?
>
> Is the shaft just pressed through the bearings? That's what it looks like.
Are the bearings available? Any thoughts on rebuilding the pump?
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Hi Chris,
I broke the impeller, years ago, when I tried to take the pulley off. 
However, the shaft is in really bad shape due to rust; seal must have 
leaked for a long time. Thanks for the tips.
John

At 12:08 PM 5/30/2012 +1000, Chris Dimmock wrote:
>Hi John,
>I sent you a pic separately. the bearing and shaft are one piece on 
>a bj8 pump.
>Just rebuilt mine.
>Biggest issues are you really need a press to get the brg out of the 
>housing, and a press to get the impeller off the brg. You can 
>improvise with a vice, but you run the risk of breaking the 
>impeller. And usually, the back of the impeller needs to be cleaned 
>up on a lathe where the seal goes.
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine
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Peter,

>From a friend with several 100s, one with a 289 installed...

*"With an aluminum intake and bell housing, the 289 is 5 lbs lighter than
the 100 engine. 526 vs 531.*"

So at 531 lbs., I was close at 550, but that's just the engine alone.

Curt

On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 3:32 PM, Peter & Veronica
<greylinn@ozemail.com.au>wrote:

> Gb day list
>
> Anyone know what a 100 engine (or engine & transmission) weighs?
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
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Quite sad indeed. I am involved in FIA historic rallying, and all I can say
old cars come back to life above 5k on the tacho: spectators smiling and
weaving, engine pulling to the limit, tyres squeeling on the tarmack,
pilots begging for grip... just like in the good old days.
Why not?
I immgine that a trailer queen will live a longer life, but nowhere near as
intreting imho.

Gergo

2012/5/29 Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>

> Mark,
>
> Gosh, most Jaguar Concours folks I know aren't even that anal.
>
> Curt
>
> On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 11:51 AM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
> wrote:
>
> > F Ronald Rader wrote:
> >
> >> all i can say is "pity"
> >>
> >>
> > Really.  And once back in the trailer, it stayed locked up in there until
> > they rolled it out on the show grounds.  Rumor has it that was the one
> > and only VTR meet the attended.  Seems they just didn't quite fit in with
> > the usual VTR crowd, you know, the other 2 - 3 hundred folks who spent
> > the weekend proudly DRIVING their Triumphs.
> >
> >
> > mjb.
> > ______________________________**_________________
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A Silverstone for restoration, among other rare Healeys:
http://tinyurl.com/74ywkqs 
http://tinyurl.com/7xrlvhf
http://tinyurl.com/88bzbl9
http://tinyurl.com/7l6lc3g

There is also a BN1 and a 3000..

Tadek
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From: F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 00:18:22 -0700
To: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Drivers vs. Shiners
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where is the passion in showing a car. 
it is nice. 
it is good. 

it is not like pushing your car thru the mountains in Az or Montana. 

that is not good. 
that is WOW!!
ron
XK 150 FHC
Nash Healey
E Type
GT 350 H

all driven hard and put away wet. 

Sent from my iPhone

On May 29, 2012, at 11:37 PM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com> wrote:

> say
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My heavens.

I nearly fell off my chair. In 25 years of owning a Healey Duncan saloon I
have never seen one come up for sale. Plus a drone too.

Both are very interesting cars in Healey History.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz
Sent: Wednesday, 30 May 2012 4:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Few Healeys at Bonhams comming up

A Silverstone for restoration, among other rare Healeys:
http://tinyurl.com/74ywkqs 
http://tinyurl.com/7xrlvhf
http://tinyurl.com/88bzbl9
http://tinyurl.com/7l6lc3g

There is also a BN1 and a 3000..

Tadek
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What an amazing collection of Healey cars, thanks for the link Tadek

On 30/05/2012 4:40 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote:
> A Silverstone for restoration, among other rare Healeys:
> http://tinyurl.com/74ywkqs
> http://tinyurl.com/7xrlvhf
> http://tinyurl.com/88bzbl9
> http://tinyurl.com/7l6lc3g
>
> There is also a BN1 and a 3000..
>
> Tadek
> _______________________________________________
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The estimate for the Duncan saloon is 3000-5000 pounds. The registration
JUC 1 is worth probably more than that alone.

Derek

On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 9:17 AM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> What an amazing collection of Healey cars, thanks for the link Tadek
>
>
> On 30/05/2012 4:40 PM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz wrote:
>
>> A Silverstone for restoration, among other rare Healeys:
>> http://tinyurl.com/74ywkqs
>> http://tinyurl.com/7xrlvhf
>> http://tinyurl.com/88bzbl9
>> http://tinyurl.com/7l6lc3g
>>
>> There is also a BN1 and a 3000..
>>
>> Tadek
>> ______________________________**_________________
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From: Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Drivers vs. Shiners
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I see both sides of the argument.  After you have spent years cleaning every
little clip on your car to bring it back to exact original condition, it's
hard to watch a bird poop on it and take $30K off the value at auction.

Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM

(I hope the guys who autocrossed their TR6 at idle, at least won the concours,
assuming it wasn't popular choice.)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 30 09:43:16 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Drivers vs. Shiners
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I see and don't see both sides of this. The majority of concours cars I have 
ever seen are better than the way they were when they were built.
These cars were built in factories and no matter how much care is given they 
all have flaws, and mistakes and little chips here and there. Let it be.
Sorry I am a believer that the cars were meant to be driven not put on 
trailers. I sold my fully restored 54 Mg TF as it was better than new, great 
car was afraid to park it anywhere.
On the other hand I loved my in progress 65 BJ 8, that got the wheels run 
off of it and was driven like Donald had built it to be, it was 
unfortunately sold and is now with the Westfall's in Chicgao and they are 
slowly doing the restoration, while enjoying her tempermental british charm.
Last year at Put In Bay, my brother gave me the cahnce to drive our families 
beloved 1948 MG TC, and I'm told I wheeled it almost as hard as my father 
would of (He was probaly grinning from ear to ear)
I did a jaguar deal one time in Cleveland, and it was fun, though never 
again will I spend that much time to detail a car for the driven class to 
find out driven to most these guys meant to unlaod the car from a tariler a 
couple blocks away and drive into the show. Our went 90 miles down the 
turnpike, bugs normal leaks and all and then were clean as best possible for 
the show. Guess what we didn't do that well, though bet I had more FUN 
driving a car that was built to be driven.

Kit Henry

85 Jaguar XJS (Gertrag 5 speed)
48 MG TC  (Chuck Henry's HP Race Car)
72 Volkswagen Beetle Convertible Restored and FOR SALE
69 Dodge A 100 Cab Over P/U
79 Dodge Warlock
71 Innocenti Mini


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Henry Morrison" <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Drivers vs. Shiners


>I see both sides of the argument.  After you have spent years cleaning 
>every
> little clip on your car to bring it back to exact original condition, it's
> hard to watch a bird poop on it and take $30K off the value at auction.
>
> Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM
>
> (I hope the guys who autocrossed their TR6 at idle, at least won the 
> concours,
> assuming it wasn't popular choice.)
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 30 11:01:32 2012
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 09:54:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: mark lapierre <lapierrem@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Flame Thrower Lamps  For Sale
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I have 4  7inch driving lamps for sale.    Two are in very good condition, 
other 2 are for parts.
 
Bulbs are 48W,   lens are in good condition and exterior chrome is very good
on both of the good units  One unit has been rechromed because the numbers by
the post are gone and that is what the seller informed me years ago when I
purchased these. 
 
Asking price is 200. for the very good,  150 for the rechromed unit.   and 50
each for the parts units.   Both lenses on the parts units have cracks but the
exterior units can be rechromed and reused. 
 
I will put some pictures together for those that are interested. 
 
Please email me off the list  so as not to bore the non interested.
 
Thanks,   Mark
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 15:05:05 -0400
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Subject: [Healeys] Rag Top For Sale,  New
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I ended up with 2 new tops so here is the extra one for sale.  Fits a 1960
BT7 and what ever else that includes. FYI, the top frame on my car does not
attach to the top.  The header bar is permanently attached to the top. Both
the frame and the top fold up and store behind the rear seat back.

This is a custom made , black crush vinyl top that was copied from a Robbins
top.  However I asked that the window be made smaller than what the Robbins
top had.

I ordered 2, one with a small zip out rear window and the other with a small
plain window.  This is the top with out a zipper.  It comes with the Tennex
fasteners,(not installed)  the Hydum strip for the front and it is brand new
still in the box.

Moss price is $389.00 for a Robbins top ,   I will sell this for $285.00 buyer
pays shipping.

Please contact me off the list.   Zip code is 46615, IN.  if you want to
check
ship rates.
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Subject: [Healeys] Purolator Oil Filter Assembly
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Hi Listers,

Does anyone on the List have an early Purolator Oil Filter Assembly for a
100 (four cylinder) they'd be will to part with? (Maybe you replaced yours
with a spin-on filter and don't need the original canister type anymore.)

Thanks,

Curt
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Curt--

If you mean the original canister I believe I do.  My car's number is
222333 so if you think that will work for you let me know and when I get
back home on Monday I will try to dig it out.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 5:00 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>wrote:

> Hi Listers,
>
> Does anyone on the List have an early Purolator Oil Filter Assembly for a
> 100 (four cylinder) they'd be will to part with? (Maybe you replaced yours
> with a spin-on filter and don't need the original canister type anymore.)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Curt
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine
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Many thanks for replies. Ibm trying to work out how much my Ausca project
would weigh with a Healey drivetrain. So far: chassis (Kilmartin) 82kg
(according to Jule Enterprises site); body: 55kg; engine/transmission: 330kg.
Thatbs 467kg total. Any estimates as to what the rest of the running gear
(front suspension, rear axle, springs, wheels etc b would add?

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz

From: Curt/Nancy Arndt
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 2:01 PM
To: Peter & Veronica
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine

Peter,

>From a friend with several 100s, one with a 289 installed...

"With an aluminum intake and bell housing, the 289 is 5 lbs lighter than the
100 engine. 526 vs 531."

So at 531 lbs., I was close at 550, but that's just the engine alone.

Curt


On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 3:32 PM, Peter & Veronica <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
wrote:

  Gb day list

  Anyone know what a 100 engine (or engine & transmission) weighs?

  Cheers

  Peter Linn
  Brisbane Oz
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine
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Wrong.  611 lbs is the weight of the 6 cylinder engine.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 19:45:39 -0400
> From: mikljmal@gmail.com
> To: cnaarndt@gmail.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine
>
> Hi All;
> Engine 611 lbs (277kg)
> Gearbox std 79.5 lbs (36.027 kg)
> Gearbox W/overdrive 117 lbs  (52.907kg)
> From workshop manual AKD 1179H
> Mike Maloney 66 HLY
> On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 7:04 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt
<cnaarndt@gmail.com>wrote:
>
> > Peter,
> >
> > Don't quote me, but off the top of my head I believe it's 550 lbs.
> > Supposedly more than a Ford 289 V8.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Curt
> >
> > On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 3:32 PM, Peter & Veronica
> > <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>wrote:
> >
> > > Gb day list
> > >
> > > Anyone know what a 100 engine (or engine & transmission) weighs?
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > >
> > > Peter Linn
> > > Brisbane Oz
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 21:01:01 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine
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The 6 cylinder may have started life at 611 lbs, but I have verified that 
every time I pull the engine it has increased in weight by 57.23 lbs. Thus 
my engine now weighs in the range of 1532.3 lbs. Don't know the science 
behind this but I'm absolutely positive it has nothing to do with my age or 
frustrations.

Y'all take care,

Fred
Team Healey Texas

-----Original Message----- 
From: richard mayor
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 7:36 PM
To: mikljmal@gmail.com ; cnaarndt@gmail.com
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine

Wrong.  611 lbs is the weight of the 6 cylinder engine.

Richard Mayor
BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
Portland, Oregon


> Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 19:45:39 -0400
> From: mikljmal@gmail.com
> To: cnaarndt@gmail.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine
>
> Hi All;
> Engine 611 lbs (277kg)
> Gearbox std 79.5 lbs (36.027 kg)
> Gearbox W/overdrive 117 lbs  (52.907kg)
> From workshop manual AKD 1179H
> Mike Maloney 66 HLY
> On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 7:04 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt
<cnaarndt@gmail.com>wrote:
>
> > Peter,
> >
> > Don't quote me, but off the top of my head I believe it's 550 lbs.
> > Supposedly more than a Ford 289 V8.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Curt
> >
> > On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 3:32 PM, Peter & Veronica
> > <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>wrote:
> >
> > > Gb day list
> > >
> > > Anyone know what a 100 engine (or engine & transmission) weighs?
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > >
> > > Peter Linn
> > > Brisbane Oz
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine
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LoL....
Too true
On May 30, 2012 7:01 PM, "teamhealeytexas" <fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com>
wrote:

> The 6 cylinder may have started life at 611 lbs, but I have verified that
> every time I pull the engine it has increased in weight by 57.23 lbs. Thus
> my engine now weighs in the range of 1532.3 lbs. Don't know the science
> behind this but I'm absolutely positive it has nothing to do with my age or
> frustrations.
>
> Y'all take care,
>
> Fred
> Team Healey Texas
>
> -----Original Message----- From: richard mayor
> Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 7:36 PM
> To: mikljmal@gmail.com ; cnaarndt@gmail.com
> Cc: healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine
>
> Wrong.  611 lbs is the weight of the 6 cylinder engine.
>
> Richard Mayor
> BN7L-466  Vintage Racer
> Portland, Oregon
>
>
>  Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 19:45:39 -0400
>> From: mikljmal@gmail.com
>> To: cnaarndt@gmail.com
>> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weight of 100 engine
>>
>> Hi All;
>> Engine 611 lbs (277kg)
>> Gearbox std 79.5 lbs (36.027 kg)
>> Gearbox W/overdrive 117 lbs  (52.907kg)
>> From workshop manual AKD 1179H
>> Mike Maloney 66 HLY
>> On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 7:04 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt
>>
> <cnaarndt@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>>
>> > Peter,
>> >
>> > Don't quote me, but off the top of my head I believe it's 550 lbs.
>> > Supposedly more than a Ford 289 V8.
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> >
>> > Curt
>> >
>> > On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 3:32 PM, Peter & Veronica
>> > <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>**wrote:
>> >
>> > > Gb day list
>> > >
>> > > Anyone know what a 100 engine (or engine & transmission) weighs?
>> > >
>> > > Cheers
>> > >
>> > > Peter Linn
>> > > Brisbane Oz
>>
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From: Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com>
To: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: ingnition leads
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Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug ingnition lead
should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to travel from the
distributor to the spark plug will be the same for each cylinder.
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From: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
To: "'Ed O'Neal'" <ed@wadsworth-eng.com>, "'Healeys@autox.team.net'"
	<Healeys@autox.team.net>
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WFS garage or WTF garage?

Lets see, how long does it take to move 6" at the speed of light?


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ed O'Neal
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 6:08 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ingnition leads

Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug ingnition lead
should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to travel from the
distributor to the spark plug will be the same for each cylinder.
$12.75
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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That is absolute bullshit. Electricity travels with the speed of light, 
around 200.000mls/s. If you have carbon core resistor wires it is 
preferable but not necessary that the wires are of equal length because 
the resistance of each wire will be the same although it is not 
critical. With copper core wires without  measurable resistance there is 
no reason why they should be of equal length.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 31-5-2012 15:07, Ed O'Neal schreef:
> Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug ingnition lead
> should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to travel from the
> distributor to the spark plug will be the same for each cylinder.
> _______________________________________________
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>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
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E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 31 09:26:48 2012
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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For those of you that are math inclined.
Speed of light = 186,000 miles per second
186,000 miles per second = 982,080,000 feet per second
982,080,000 = 11,784,960,000 inches per second.  That is eleven billion,
seven hundred eighty four million, nine hundred sixty thousand inches in
one second.
Having one spark lead 1" longer will delay the spark by
Are you ready for this?
Are you sure?
*0.000000000085 seconds.*
*Holy shit, that is going to throw your timing on that cylinder all to
hell. </sarcasm >
*



On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 6:07 AM, Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com> wrote:

> Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug ingnition lead
> should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to travel from
> the
> distributor to the spark plug will be the same for each cylinder.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 31 09:35:09 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Richard Ewald'" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>, "'Ed O'Neal'"
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Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 09:35:34 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition leads
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I'm impressed your calculator goes out to 16 decimal places.....
dp

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Ewald
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 9:26 AM
To: Ed O'Neal
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

For those of you that are math inclined.
Speed of light = 186,000 miles per second
186,000 miles per second = 982,080,000 feet per second
982,080,000 = 11,784,960,000 inches per second.  That is eleven billion,
seven hundred eighty four million, nine hundred sixty thousand inches in
one second.
Having one spark lead 1" longer will delay the spark by
Are you ready for this?
Are you sure?
*0.000000000085 seconds.*
*Holy shit, that is going to throw your timing on that cylinder all to
hell. </sarcasm >
*
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 31 09:43:13 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures.
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In preparation for my first competitive outing  I took the car to a
specialist with a rolling road to give it the once over generally and set
everything for optimum performance. He is a  well known guy in motor sport
circles having prepared various Pro-rally teams cars as well as a lot of
exotic classics including Miuras and Ferrari 250s. One of the reasons he
got the rally prep jobs was because they were impressed that had the most
accurately calibrated dyno, which translates to one that produces real, but
lower figures than most of the others.

My car has a BJ8 engine, twin HD8s, DWR8 'fast road cam, polished and
ported iron head, six branch manifold, itg fast flow filter. Compression
came in at 195 pretty much across the board and he thought the comp ratio
would be around 10.5 : 1. Maximum ignition advance was 31 degrees initially
but when we optimised the performance i think it was advanced a tiny bit
further. I will check it's exact current setting when I get chance

The result.

Maximum power is 160 bhp at 5500 revs.

Max torque is 158 ft/lbs at 3100 revs and stays flat until 4700.

Torque is 140ft lbs at 1700 so there is a very broad and useable power
band.

I think we can safely say a stock BJ8 never produced 150 bhp!

He told me that  whenever he tests classic cars there is always a very
large difference between reality and the bhp figures stated at the time.

Derek
www.healeysix.net
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...and even more importantly, they look an absolute mess if they are all
the same length!

Derek

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 4:26 PM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>wrote:

> For those of you that are math inclined.
> Speed of light = 186,000 miles per second
> 186,000 miles per second = 982,080,000 feet per second
> 982,080,000 = 11,784,960,000 inches per second.  That is eleven billion,
> seven hundred eighty four million, nine hundred sixty thousand inches in
> one second.
> Having one spark lead 1" longer will delay the spark by
> Are you ready for this?
> Are you sure?
> *0.000000000085 seconds.*
> *Holy shit, that is going to throw your timing on that cylinder all to
> hell. </sarcasm >
> *
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 6:07 AM, Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com> wrote:
>
> > Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug ingnition
> lead
> > should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to travel
> from
> > the
> > distributor to the spark plug will be the same for each cylinder.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
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> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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>
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From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Classic Cars Healey
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Anyone see the episode with this BN7 this week: 
http://velocity.discovery.com/videos/chasing-classic-cars-1961-austin-healey.
html  Seller wanted $80k and Wayne thought it might go for over $100k. 
Bidding wasn't near the seller's price and he had to buy it back from the
auction house.  Car is now for sale at F40 Motorsports for $115k:
http://www.f40.com/inventorymanager.php?action=view&Id=465029  Looks to be a
beautiful car and maybe all that talk of the BN7 being rarer than the 100M is
having an effect on asking prices?

Rick


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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 31 09:53:47 2012
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From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'Derek Job' <derek.c.job@gmail.com>, Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures.
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That is good for a chassis dyno.
I had my BJ8 engine on the engine dyno after rebuild with stock BJ8 cam grind
but long tube Kirk headers and the hp was 155. Quite close to the graph
published by Geoff Healey in his book. My torque curve was a quite bit broader
though, probably due to the headers which I think I feel in the seat of the
pants as well.
Ken

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Derek Job
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 8:38 AM
To: Forum
Subject: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures.

In preparation for my first competitive outing  I took the car to a
specialist with a rolling road to give it the once over generally and set
everything for optimum performance. He is a  well known guy in motor sport
circles having prepared various Pro-rally teams cars as well as a lot of
exotic classics including Miuras and Ferrari 250s. One of the reasons he
got the rally prep jobs was because they were impressed that had the most
accurately calibrated dyno, which translates to one that produces real, but
lower figures than most of the others.

My car has a BJ8 engine, twin HD8s, DWR8 'fast road cam, polished and
ported iron head, six branch manifold, itg fast flow filter. Compression
came in at 195 pretty much across the board and he thought the comp ratio
would be around 10.5 : 1. Maximum ignition advance was 31 degrees initially
but when we optimised the performance i think it was advanced a tiny bit
further. I will check it's exact current setting when I get chance

The result.

Maximum power is 160 bhp at 5500 revs.

Max torque is 158 ft/lbs at 3100 revs and stays flat until 4700.

Torque is 140ft lbs at 1700 so there is a very broad and useable power
band.

I think we can safely say a stock BJ8 never produced 150 bhp!

He told me that  whenever he tests classic cars there is always a very
large difference between reality and the bhp figures stated at the time.

Derek
www.healeysix.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 31 10:00:26 2012
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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Ok I'll bite. What is WFS Garage? When I google it I get WFS Country store
which sells dog food and electronic dog fences.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Ewald
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 11:26 AM
To: Ed O'Neal
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

For those of you that are math inclined.
Speed of light = 186,000 miles per second
186,000 miles per second = 982,080,000 feet per second
982,080,000 = 11,784,960,000 inches per second.  That is eleven billion,
seven hundred eighty four million, nine hundred sixty thousand inches in one
second.
Having one spark lead 1" longer will delay the spark by Are you ready for
this?
Are you sure?
*0.000000000085 seconds.*
*Holy shit, that is going to throw your timing on that cylinder all to hell.
</sarcasm >
*



On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 6:07 AM, Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com> wrote:

> Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug ingnition
> lead should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to
> travel from the distributor to the spark plug will be the same for
> each cylinder.
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Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 09:03:15 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition leads
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Gotta love the HP calculator app for my iPhone. Built in scientific notation.
:-)
Rick
Sent from my iPhone

On May 31, 2012, at 8:35, "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com> wrote:

> I'm impressed your calculator goes out to 16 decimal places.....
> dp
>
> frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
>
> cars:
> www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
> gallery:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
> GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Richard Ewald
> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 9:26 AM
> To: Ed O'Neal
> Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
>
> For those of you that are math inclined.
> Speed of light = 186,000 miles per second
> 186,000 miles per second = 982,080,000 feet per second
> 982,080,000 = 11,784,960,000 inches per second.  That is eleven billion,
> seven hundred eighty four million, nine hundred sixty thousand inches in
> one second.
> Having one spark lead 1" longer will delay the spark by
> Are you ready for this?
> Are you sure?
> *0.000000000085 seconds.*
> *Holy shit, that is going to throw your timing on that cylinder all to
> hell. </sarcasm >
> *
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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I wonder how fast  the electricity goes through the dog fences?

Derek

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 4:59 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

> Ok I'll bite. What is WFS Garage? When I google it I get WFS Country store
> which sells dog food and electronic dog fences.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Richard Ewald
> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 11:26 AM
> To: Ed O'Neal
> Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
>
> For those of you that are math inclined.
> Speed of light = 186,000 miles per second
> 186,000 miles per second = 982,080,000 feet per second
> 982,080,000 = 11,784,960,000 inches per second.  That is eleven billion,
> seven hundred eighty four million, nine hundred sixty thousand inches in
> one
> second.
> Having one spark lead 1" longer will delay the spark by Are you ready for
> this?
> Are you sure?
> *0.000000000085 seconds.*
> *Holy shit, that is going to throw your timing on that cylinder all to
> hell.
> </sarcasm >
> *
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 6:07 AM, Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com> wrote:
>
> > Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug ingnition
> > lead should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to
> > travel from the distributor to the spark plug will be the same for
> > each cylinder.
> > _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 09:10:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures.
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Derek,

I'm sure the factory ratings were "optimistic", however they were also rated
differently than your rolling road test.  Factory numbers were obtained
without any engine accessories on an engine dyno. The same engine on a rolling
road would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 15-20% less powerful due to the
parasitic losses of the driveline, engine accessories and silencers.

Rick


Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

--- On Thu, 5/31/12, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures.
To: "Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, May 31, 2012, 11:37 AM

In preparation for my first competitive outing  I took the car to a
specialist with a rolling road to give it the once over generally and set
everything for optimum performance. He is a  well known guy in motor sport
circles having prepared various Pro-rally teams cars as well as a lot of
exotic classics including Miuras and Ferrari 250s. One of the reasons he
got the rally prep jobs was because they were impressed that had the most
accurately calibrated dyno, which translates to one that produces real, but
lower figures than most of the others.

My car has a BJ8 engine, twin HD8s, DWR8 'fast road cam, polished and
ported iron head, six branch manifold, itg fast flow filter. Compression
came in at 195 pretty much across the board and he thought the comp ratio
would be around 10.5 : 1. Maximum ignition advance was 31 degrees initially
but when we optimised the performance i think it was advanced a tiny bit
further. I will check it's exact current setting when I get chance

The result.

Maximum power is 160 bhp at 5500 revs.

Max torque is 158 ft/lbs at 3100 revs and stays flat until 4700.

Torque is 140ft lbs at 1700 so there is a very broad and useable power
band.

I think we can safely say a stock BJ8 never produced 150 bhp!

He told me that  whenever he tests classic cars there is always a very
large difference between reality and the bhp figures stated at the time.

Derek
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Educate me.  Is there a BN3 or a BN5?  Well, I guess that brings the question
of what does BN stand for?

I used to remember all this, but I forgot.

Mike
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Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 09:15:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: mark lapierre <lapierrem@sbcglobal.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chasing Classic Cars Healey
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I enjoy watching but it sure is better to watch him take the ht than myself. 
This new series
seems to be leaning towards going to auction with no reserve or removing the
reserve early.
He seems to loose more than he gains on the auction circut but maybe thats
just for the drama
of the show.  
 
As for the Healey it seems that it makes more sense to go in with a reserve
and remove it than
to have no reserve and have to buy the car back and pay the service fee for
your own car.
 
Thats TV for ya.   And who knows maybe the auction house gives Careenie a cut
for putting them on his show.  
 
My all time fav was the  British Leyland service van that Wayne  bought and
drove around for awhile.    Sooooooo much nastalgia in that vehicle. 
 
Mark
 


--- On Thu, 5/31/12, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Classic Cars Healey
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, May 31, 2012, 11:51 AM


Anyone see the episode with this BN7 this week:
http://velocity.discovery.com/videos/chasing-classic-cars-1961-austin-healey.
html  Seller wanted $80k and Wayne thought it might go for over $100k.
Bidding wasn't near the seller's price and he had to buy it back from the
auction house.  Car is now for sale at F40 Motorsports for $115k:
http://www.f40.com/inventorymanager.php?action=view&Id=465029  Looks to be a
beautiful car and maybe all that talk of the BN7 being rarer than the 100M is
having an effect on asking prices?

Rick


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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures.
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Rick,

Yes that's true so it's not a fair comparison. Plus of course the only hp
that really matters I suppose, is that which finds its way to the wheels.
And there goes another 20 to 30%!

So I guess, at the wheels a stock BJ8 has about 95-100 hp.




On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 5:10 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Derek,
>
> I'm sure the factory ratings were "optimistic", however they were also
> rated differently than your rolling road test.  Factory numbers were
> obtained without any engine accessories on an engine dyno. The same engine
> on a rolling road would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 15-20% less
> powerful due to the parasitic losses of the driveline, engine accessories
> and silencers.
>
> Rick
>
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
> --- On *Thu, 5/31/12, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>* wrote:
>
>
> From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
>
> Subject: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures.
> To: "Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, May 31, 2012, 11:37 AM
>
> In preparation for my first competitive outing  I took the car to a
> specialist with a rolling road to give it the once over generally and set
> everything for optimum performance. He is a  well known guy in motor sport
> circles having prepared various Pro-rally teams cars as well as a lot of
> exotic classics including Miuras and Ferrari 250s. One of the reasons he
> got the rally prep jobs was because they were impressed that had the most
> accurately calibrated dyno, which translates to one that produces real, but
> lower figures than most of the others.
>
> My car has a BJ8 engine, twin HD8s, DWR8 'fast road cam, polished and
> ported iron head, six branch manifold, itg fast flow filter. Compression
> came in at 195 pretty much across the board and he thought the comp ratio
> would be around 10.5 : 1. Maximum ignition advance was 31 degrees initially
> but when we optimised the performance i think it was advanced a tiny bit
> further. I will check it's exact current setting when I get chance
>
> The result.
>
> Maximum power is 160 bhp at 5500 revs.
>
> Max torque is 158 ft/lbs at 3100 revs and stays flat until 4700.
>
> Torque is 140ft lbs at 1700 so there is a very broad and useable power
> band.
>
> I think we can safely say a stock BJ8 never produced 150 bhp!
>
> He told me that  whenever he tests classic cars there is always a very
> large difference between reality and the bhp figures stated at the time.
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net
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From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
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First Link:  http://tinyurl.com/cutoqtx

Second Link  http://tinyurl.com/cswaam4

Rick


--- On Thu, 5/31/12, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Classic Cars Healey
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, May 31, 2012, 11:51 AM

Anyone see the episode with this BN7 this week:
http://velocity.discovery.com/videos/chasing-classic-cars-1961-austin-healey.
html  Seller wanted $80k and Wayne thought it might go for over $100k.
Bidding wasn't near the seller's price and he had to buy it back from the
auction house.  Car is now for sale at F40 Motorsports for $115k:
http://www.f40.com/inventorymanager.php?action=view&Id=465029  Looks to be a
beautiful car and maybe all that talk of the BN7 being rarer than the 100M is
having an effect on asking prices?

Rick


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How fast electricity goes through dog fences depends on whether you are talking about light years or dog years.

Al



On May 31, 2012, at 12:06 PM, Derek Job wrote:

> I wonder how fast  the electricity goes through the dog fences?
> 
> Derek
> 
> On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 4:59 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
> 
>> Ok I'll bite. What is WFS Garage? When I google it I get WFS Country store
>> which sells dog food and electronic dog fences.
>> 
>> John Sims, BN6
>> Aberdeen, NJ
>> 
>> http://www.healey6.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures.
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Back in those days they gave the power at the flywheel, without 
dynamo/alternator or any electrical load, I think even without water 
pump and oil pump.
On the dyno you get the power on the rear wheels, sometimes it is 
calculated back to the flywheel, assuming a certain percentage of loss 
through the transmission. Thus the figures are not at all comparable.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 31-5-2012 17:37, Derek Job schreef:
> The result.
>
> Maximum power is 160 bhp at 5500 revs.
>
> Max torque is 158 ft/lbs at 3100 revs and stays flat until 4700.
>
> Torque is 140ft lbs at 1700 so there is a very broad and useable power
> band.
>
> I think we can safely say a stock BJ8 never produced 150 bhp!
>
> He told me that  whenever he tests classic cars there is always a very
> large difference between reality and the bhp figures stated at the time.
>
> Derek
> www.healeysix.net

>

>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 02:53:55 +1000
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures.
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I think if the oil pump isn't in the engine, it would be a pretty short, and
relatively expensive and noisy, dyno session....
;-)
Sent from my iPhone

On 01/06/2012, at 2:27 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Back in those days they gave the power at the flywheel, without
dynamo/alternator or any electrical load, I think even without water pump and
oil pump.
> On the dyno you get the power on the rear wheels, sometimes it is calculated
back to the flywheel, assuming a certain percentage of loss through the
transmission. Thus the figures are not at all comparable.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 31-5-2012 17:37, Derek Job schreef:
>> The result.
>>
>> Maximum power is 160 bhp at 5500 revs.
>>
>> Max torque is 158 ft/lbs at 3100 revs and stays flat until 4700.
>>
>> Torque is 140ft lbs at 1700 so there is a very broad and useable power
>> band.
>>
>> I think we can safely say a stock BJ8 never produced 150 bhp!
>>
>> He told me that  whenever he tests classic cars there is always a very
>> large difference between reality and the bhp figures stated at the time.
>>
>> Derek
>> www.healeysix.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN
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There is a BN3 down under in Australia.
On May 31, 2012 9:10 AM, "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:

> Educate me.  Is there a BN3 or a BN5?  Well, I guess that brings the
> question
> of what does BN stand for?
>
> I used to remember all this, but I forgot.
>
> Mike
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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Ah, but to keep the pot boiling, a Light Year is a measurement of DISTANCE
not time.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Al Malin
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 12:28 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

How fast electricity goes through dog fences depends on whether you are
talking about light years or dog years.

Al



On May 31, 2012, at 12:06 PM, Derek Job wrote:

> I wonder how fast  the electricity goes through the dog fences?
>
> Derek
>
> On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 4:59 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> Ok I'll bite. What is WFS Garage? When I google it I get WFS Country
>> store which sells dog food and electronic dog fences.
>>
>> John Sims, BN6
>> Aberdeen, NJ
>>
>> http://www.healey6.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN
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B equals engine displacement between 2000cc and 2999cc N equals two seat
tourer (or roadster). The BN3's and 5's are explained here:
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/PQBN3.html

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 1:08 PM
To: Mike
Cc: Healey Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN

There is a BN3 down under in Australia.
On May 31, 2012 9:10 AM, "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:

> Educate me.  Is there a BN3 or a BN5?  Well, I guess that brings the
> question of what does BN stand for?
>
> I used to remember all this, but I forgot.
>
> Mike
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 31 11:35:48 2012
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From: Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com>
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>, 'Al Malin' <amalin@mac.com>, 'Healey
	List' <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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Which also begs the question . . . if you have a doggy ignition system, would
it run on dog years instead of light years?  And if so would the differing
lengths of ingnition wires become sufficiently significant to cause a poor
ignition timing???   AH we come full circle.  Could the WFS Garage have been
right in the first place?


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 1:23 PM
To: 'Al Malin'; 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

Ah, but to keep the pot boiling, a Light Year is a measurement of DISTANCE not
time.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Al Malin
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 12:28 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

How fast electricity goes through dog fences depends on whether you are
talking about light years or dog years.

Al



On May 31, 2012, at 12:06 PM, Derek Job wrote:

> I wonder how fast  the electricity goes through the dog fences?
>
> Derek
>
> On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 4:59 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> Ok I'll bite. What is WFS Garage? When I google it I get WFS Country
>> store which sells dog food and electronic dog fences.
>>
>> John Sims, BN6
>> Aberdeen, NJ
>>
>> http://www.healey6.com
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Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 10:31:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
To: Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com>, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
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Exactly.

The error in the lobe profile of the distributor that triggers the points to
open is a million times greater than the wire length error....

Robert N. Blair  Yellow 65BJ8  RNBmail@yahoo.com
 



--- On Thu, 5/31/12, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
> To: "Ed O'Neal" <ed@wadsworth-eng.com>
> Cc: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, May 31, 2012, 8:26 AM
> For those of you that are math
> inclined.
> Speed of light = 186,000 miles per second
> 186,000 miles per second = 982,080,000 feet per second
> 982,080,000 = 11,784,960,000 inches per second.  That
> is eleven billion,
> seven hundred eighty four million, nine hundred sixty
> thousand inches in
> one second.
> Having one spark lead 1" longer will delay the spark by
> Are you ready for this?
> Are you sure?
> *0.000000000085 seconds.*
> *Holy shit, that is going to throw your timing on that
> cylinder all to
> hell. </sarcasm >
> *
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 6:07 AM, Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each
> spark plug ingnition lead
> > should be of the same length so that the time for the
> spark to travel from
> > the
> > distributor to the spark plug will be the same for each
> cylinder.
> > _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 31 12:42:01 2012
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Thank you.  Very interesting reading.  I have a feeling a few "backsteps" 
were omitted about the restoration.  But love triumphs all.  Restoring a car 
is like restoring a house--every time you uncover something, you find more 
that needs redoing.

Mike
BN2
==============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com>; "'Mike'" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
Cc: "'Healey Forum'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 10:28 AM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] BN


B equals engine displacement between 2000cc and 2999cc N equals two seat
tourer (or roadster). The BN3's and 5's are explained here:
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/PQBN3.html

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 1:08 PM
To: Mike
Cc: Healey Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN

There is a BN3 down under in Australia.
On May 31, 2012 9:10 AM, "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:

> Educate me.  Is there a BN3 or a BN5?  Well, I guess that brings the
> question of what does BN stand for?
>
> I used to remember all this, but I forgot.
>
> Mike
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures.
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It is not uncommon to feed the oil (pressurised), coolant, electricity 
from an external source to the engine on a testbed to be able to control 
all conditions like oil pressure and temperature, coolant temperature etc..
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 31-5-2012 18:53, Chris Dimmock schreef:
> I think if the oil pump isn't in the engine, it would be a pretty short, and relatively expensive and noisy, dyno session....
> ;-)
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 01/06/2012, at 2:27 AM, Oudesluys<coudesluijs@chello.nl>  wrote:
>
>> Back in those days they gave the power at the flywheel, without dynamo/alternator or any electrical load, I think even without water pump and oil pump.
>> On the dyno you get the power on the rear wheels, sometimes it is calculated back to the flywheel, assuming a certain percentage of loss through the transmission. Thus the figures are not at all comparable.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>> Op 31-5-2012 17:37, Derek Job schreef:
>>> The result.
>>>
>>> Maximum power is 160 bhp at 5500 revs.
>>>
>>> Max torque is 158 ft/lbs at 3100 revs and stays flat until 4700.
>>>
>>> Torque is 140ft lbs at 1700 so there is a very broad and useable power
>>> band.
>>>
>>> I think we can safely say a stock BJ8 never produced 150 bhp!
>>>
>>> He told me that  whenever he tests classic cars there is always a very
>>> large difference between reality and the bhp figures stated at the time.
>>>
>>> Derek
>>> www.healeysix.net
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2425/5034 - datum van uitgifte: 05/30/12
>
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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Yes it is, but I didn't use a light year, I used the speed in miles per
hour and converted to inches per second.  From there is it trivial to see
how long it takes to cover 1".  :-)
The time required to cover 2, 3 and 4 inches will be left as an exercise to
the student.
Rick


On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 10:22 AM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

> Ah, but to keep the pot boiling, a Light Year is a measurement of DISTANCE
> not time.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Al Malin
> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 12:28 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
>
> How fast electricity goes through dog fences depends on whether you are
> talking about light years or dog years.
>
> Al
>
>
>
> On May 31, 2012, at 12:06 PM, Derek Job wrote:
>
> > I wonder how fast  the electricity goes through the dog fences?
> >
> > Derek
> >
> > On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 4:59 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
> >
> >> Ok I'll bite. What is WFS Garage? When I google it I get WFS Country
> >> store which sells dog food and electronic dog fences.
> >>
> >> John Sims, BN6
> >> Aberdeen, NJ
> >>
> >> http://www.healey6.com
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN
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G'day Mike

Yes Virginia there is a BN3. In fact the world is awash with BN3s, all two
of them.

The last time I looked there was BN3/1 in my garage and BN4/4 is at the
Healey Museum in the Netherlands. However they are very different cars.

And yes while N does mean a two seater, the BN3/1, besides being the first
six-cylinder Austin-Healey built, is a four seater and in fact the first
four seat Austin-Healey.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Friday, 1 June 2012 3:29 AM
To: 'I Erbs'; 'Mike'
Cc: 'Healey Forum'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN

B equals engine displacement between 2000cc and 2999cc N equals two seat
tourer (or roadster). The BN3's and 5's are explained here:
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/PQBN3.html

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
 
http://www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 1:08 PM
To: Mike
Cc: Healey Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN

There is a BN3 down under in Australia.
On May 31, 2012 9:10 AM, "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:

> Educate me.  Is there a BN3 or a BN5?  Well, I guess that brings the
> question of what does BN stand for?
>
> I used to remember all this, but I forgot.
>
> Mike
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Derek
sorry beg to differ :
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/684
377/Searchpage/2/Main/69376/Words/dyno/Search/true/Re_Rolling_Road_Setup#Post
684377
my bj8 with stock engine (head machined for unleaded), original dizzy with
points, 45mm stainless twin pipes with no rear silencer (sorry Rich), only
upgrade a sports coil (painted silver for Rich)
;)
Peter at 70 now had his race mini miglia driver fall through so ran it himself
and thrashed everyone:
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/222546-peter-baldwin-races-his-min
i-miglia-again/
your never too old!!!

cheers Andy
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Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 21:02:26 +0200
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From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures.
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Congratulations. 160bhps at the wheels is wonderfull.
Though as menshioned before, factory numbers were given at the flywheel.
Driveline loss for heilical-cut gearbox and 90 degree final drive may be
20-25%. Soo Your engine would produce the power of at least 200 "BMC"
horses :D.

Gergo

2012/5/31 Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>

> It is not uncommon to feed the oil (pressurised), coolant, electricity
> from an external source to the engine on a testbed to be able to control
> all conditions like oil pressure and temperature, coolant temperature etc..
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 31-5-2012 18:53, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>
>> I think if the oil pump isn't in the engine, it would be a pretty short,
>> and relatively expensive and noisy, dyno session....
>> ;-)
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On 01/06/2012, at 2:27 AM,
Oudesluys<coudesluijs@chello.**nl<coudesluijs@chello.nl>>
>>  wrote:
>>
>>  Back in those days they gave the power at the flywheel, without
>>> dynamo/alternator or any electrical load, I think even without water pump
>>> and oil pump.
>>> On the dyno you get the power on the rear wheels, sometimes it is
>>> calculated back to the flywheel, assuming a certain percentage of loss
>>> through the transmission. Thus the figures are not at all comparable.
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>> Op 31-5-2012 17:37, Derek Job schreef:
>>>
>>>> The result.
>>>>
>>>> Maximum power is 160 bhp at 5500 revs.
>>>>
>>>> Max torque is 158 ft/lbs at 3100 revs and stays flat until 4700.
>>>>
>>>> Torque is 140ft lbs at 1700 so there is a very broad and useable power
>>>> band.
>>>>
>>>> I think we can safely say a stock BJ8 never produced 150 bhp!
>>>>
>>>> He told me that  whenever he tests classic cars there is always a very
>>>> large difference between reality and the bhp figures stated at the time.
>>>>
>>>> Derek
>>>> www.healeysix.net
>>>>
>>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2425/5034 - datum van uitgifte:
>> 05/30/12
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Dorpsstraat 183
> 2995XG Heerjansdam
> T: 078-677 1233
> E: coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
> Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
> Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
> www.jensenholland.nl
> ______________________________**_________________
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Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 21:29:27 +0200
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From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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They should be the same color not lenght IMHO. They look awfull if not the
same. A few inches make no realy measurable differences in spart timing.

G

2012/5/31 Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>

> Yes it is, but I didn't use a light year, I used the speed in miles per
> hour and converted to inches per second.  From there is it trivial to see
> how long it takes to cover 1".  :-)
> The time required to cover 2, 3 and 4 inches will be left as an exercise to
> the student.
> Rick
>
>
> On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 10:22 AM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> > Ah, but to keep the pot boiling, a Light Year is a measurement of
> DISTANCE
> > not time.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> > http://www.healey6.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> > healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Al Malin
> > Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 12:28 PM
> > To: Healey List
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
> >
> > How fast electricity goes through dog fences depends on whether you are
> > talking about light years or dog years.
> >
> > Al
> >
> >
> >
> > On May 31, 2012, at 12:06 PM, Derek Job wrote:
> >
> > > I wonder how fast  the electricity goes through the dog fences?
> > >
> > > Derek
> > >
> > > On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 4:59 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Ok I'll bite. What is WFS Garage? When I google it I get WFS Country
> > >> store which sells dog food and electronic dog fences.
> > >>
> > >> John Sims, BN6
> > >> Aberdeen, NJ
> > >>
> > >> http://www.healey6.com
> > $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Subject: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures (contd)
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My message got bounced so I've started a new one.

Just to be clear, my 160 bhp is at the flywheel not the wheels.

To summarise my understanding

- The factory 150bhp was at the flywheel with the engine but no ancillaries
at all. So really more like 120-125 with ancillaries.

- My  back calculated 160 bhp is at the flywheel but with all the
ancillaries included.

- That difference seems reasonable given the cam and other modifications
that my car is running. I have straight cut gears which I supposed helped a
little in the back calculation.

- Different dynos give different results. My guy said that cars he tested
regularly showed 20 to 30 bhp less than the owners had obtained on other
dynos. His comes in bang on with the factory when he tests brand new BMWs
and Mercs.

- You can deduct another 20-25% or so from the above numbers to arrive at
the rear wheel bhp numbers.

Andy, I would be very surprised if your stock car is really making that
150bhp at 5000 revs.

Derek
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN
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The BN3 and BN4 are incorrectly named if you exactly follow the logic of
the BMC code system. They should have been BT's

Derek

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 7:43 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day Mike
>
> Yes Virginia there is a BN3. In fact the world is awash with BN3s, all two
> of them.
>
> The last time I looked there was BN3/1 in my garage and BN4/4 is at the
> Healey Museum in the Netherlands. However they are very different cars.
>
> And yes while N does mean a two seater, the BN3/1, besides being the first
> six-cylinder Austin-Healey built, is a four seater and in fact the first
> four seat Austin-Healey.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of John Sims
> Sent: Friday, 1 June 2012 3:29 AM
> To: 'I Erbs'; 'Mike'
> Cc: 'Healey Forum'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN
>
> B equals engine displacement between 2000cc and 2999cc N equals two seat
> tourer (or roadster). The BN3's and 5's are explained here:
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/PQBN3.html
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> http://www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of I Erbs
> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 1:08 PM
> To: Mike
> Cc: Healey Forum
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN
>
> There is a BN3 down under in Australia.
> On May 31, 2012 9:10 AM, "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > Educate me.  Is there a BN3 or a BN5?  Well, I guess that brings the
> > question of what does BN stand for?
> >
> > I used to remember all this, but I forgot.
> >
> > Mike
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 31 14:15:55 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures (contd)
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Derek
I stripped the engine, checked her over, and except for changing a few push
rods, I took the head to Newark Engineering for the valve seat work, and
rebuilt, it all looked too good to waste money.

The figures I gave, I still have the photos somewhere, I just sat in it and he
told me which gear and when to floor it! I made notes off all the equipment
and readings just as I did last week with a full suspension setup at my local
Subaru specialist (they do my 265bhp scooby). The second run wasnt that good
as I left the handbrake on! As I put on the forum he double checked the peak
bhp as the first setting on the scale only went from 0-150bhp and it was
reading top scale so he reset to the next scale to double check. I just wanted
to get her setup correctly, as lets face it she's not going to be driven as
hard as my scooby or Ducati 996! Its a different kind of fun.

Try looking up Peter Baldwin, knows more about rolling roads and SU's than
most !

Have to admit she goes well, first long run out this week as took car to have
hood fitted on Tuesday, and picked her up today, sits nicely at 80mph on
m6/m69   :)

cheers Andy
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 31 14:46:01 2012
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From: "Alex" <alexmm@roadrunner.com>
To: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>, "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
References: <C391FF5D0336084989C36BE5295EE14C61D21C@MBX028-W1-CA-5.exch028.domain.local><CACOF-Tq60nan8HvMR684gFHkyAY8T=7NXrjQEu9+Lai7XxNnkg@mail.gmail.com><014301cd3f46$4c7837a0$e568a6e0$@verizon.net><CAAh8et=eH8_F4jkGnVgJ7w1K46gz6QFryx-dTEf4MryAEBSJ=g@mail.gmail.com><09ECCBE7-D875-4AEF-82FC-7FA183B4F99F@mac.com><014d01cd3f51$fb796430$f26c2c90$@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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Actually, there is a slight error in these calculations. Every cable, wire, 
circuit board conductor, waveguide, optical fibre, etc. offers a slight 
delay to a propagating electrical signal traveling along the wire. This 
delay is called the velocity factor.

Learn more here:   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_propagation_speed

For example, in a coaxial cable, the VF is usually 0.66 or so, which means 
when calculating length for an application based on the speed of light, you 
assume the speed of light is reduced by about a third.  Manufacturers of 
these cables supply the VF as a spec.

Hee hee!

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads


> Yes it is, but I didn't use a light year, I used the speed in miles per
> hour and converted to inches per second.  From there is it trivial to see
> how long it takes to cover 1".  :-)
> The time required to cover 2, 3 and 4 inches will be left as an exercise 
> to
> the student.
> Rick
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 31 14:54:49 2012
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From: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
To: "'Alex'" <alexmm@roadrunner.com>, "'Richard Ewald'"
	<richard.ewald@gmail.com>, "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 20:53:04 +0000
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The delay would be the same for each wire regardless of length as I understand
it (which very well could be wrong) , so the travel time as a ratio of length
is still accurate.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 1:46 PM
To: Richard Ewald; John Sims
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

Actually, there is a slight error in these calculations. Every cable, wire,
circuit board conductor, waveguide, optical fibre, etc. offers a slight delay
to a propagating electrical signal traveling along the wire. This delay is
called the velocity factor.

Learn more here:   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_propagation_speed

For example, in a coaxial cable, the VF is usually 0.66 or so, which means
when calculating length for an application based on the speed of light, you
assume the speed of light is reduced by about a third.  Manufacturers of these
cables supply the VF as a spec.

Hee hee!

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads


> Yes it is, but I didn't use a light year, I used the speed in miles per
> hour and converted to inches per second.  From there is it trivial to see
> how long it takes to cover 1".  :-)
> The time required to cover 2, 3 and 4 inches will be left as an exercise
> to
> the student.
> Rick
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	<richard.ewald@gmail.com>, "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
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The length is a factor in calculating VF delays.

== Alex

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jonas Payne" <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
To: "'Alex'" <alexmm@roadrunner.com>; "'Richard Ewald'" 
<richard.ewald@gmail.com>; "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: "'Healey List'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 4:53 PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ingnition leads


The delay would be the same for each wire regardless of length as I 
understand it (which very well could be wrong) , so the travel time as a 
ratio of length is still accurate.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] 
On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 1:46 PM
To: Richard Ewald; John Sims
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

Actually, there is a slight error in these calculations. Every cable, wire, 
circuit board conductor, waveguide, optical fibre, etc. offers a slight 
delay to a propagating electrical signal traveling along the wire. This 
delay is called the velocity factor.

Learn more here:   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_propagation_speed

For example, in a coaxial cable, the VF is usually 0.66 or so, which means 
when calculating length for an application based on the speed of light, you 
assume the speed of light is reduced by about a third.  Manufacturers of 
these cables supply the VF as a spec.

Hee hee!

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads


> Yes it is, but I didn't use a light year, I used the speed in miles per
> hour and converted to inches per second.  From there is it trivial to see
> how long it takes to cover 1".  :-)
> The time required to cover 2, 3 and 4 inches will be left as an exercise
> to
> the student.
> Rick
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	<richard.ewald@gmail.com>, "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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10-4


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084


-----Original Message-----
From: Alex [mailto:alexmm@roadrunner.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 1:54 PM
To: Jonas Payne; 'Richard Ewald'; 'John Sims'
Cc: 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

The length is a factor in calculating VF delays.

== Alex

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonas Payne" <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
To: "'Alex'" <alexmm@roadrunner.com>; "'Richard Ewald'"
<richard.ewald@gmail.com>; "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: "'Healey List'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 4:53 PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ingnition leads


The delay would be the same for each wire regardless of length as I
understand it (which very well could be wrong) , so the travel time as a
ratio of length is still accurate.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 1:46 PM
To: Richard Ewald; John Sims
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

Actually, there is a slight error in these calculations. Every cable, wire,
circuit board conductor, waveguide, optical fibre, etc. offers a slight
delay to a propagating electrical signal traveling along the wire. This
delay is called the velocity factor.

Learn more here:   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_propagation_speed

For example, in a coaxial cable, the VF is usually 0.66 or so, which means
when calculating length for an application based on the speed of light, you
assume the speed of light is reduced by about a third.  Manufacturers of
these cables supply the VF as a spec.

Hee hee!

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads


> Yes it is, but I didn't use a light year, I used the speed in miles per
> hour and converted to inches per second.  From there is it trivial to see
> how long it takes to cover 1".  :-)
> The time required to cover 2, 3 and 4 inches will be left as an exercise
> to
> the student.
> Rick
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Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
> That is absolute bullshit.

Kees, your English is superb. :)

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
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So with these calculations we had better add some wire to the front  
marker lights so that the from marker lights, tail lights and dash  
lights do not have any delays in coming on.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 31, 2012, at 8:26 AM, Richard Ewald wrote:

> For those of you that are math inclined.
> Speed of light = 186,000 miles per second
> 186,000 miles per second = 982,080,000 feet per second
> 982,080,000 = 11,784,960,000 inches per second.  That is eleven  
> billion,
> seven hundred eighty four million, nine hundred sixty thousand  
> inches in
> one second.
> Having one spark lead 1" longer will delay the spark by
> Are you ready for this?
> Are you sure?
> *0.000000000085 seconds.*
> *Holy shit, that is going to throw your timing on that cylinder all to
> hell. </sarcasm >
> *
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 6:07 AM, Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com>  
> wrote:
>
>> Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug  
>> ingnition lead
>> should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to  
>> travel from
>> the
>> distributor to the spark plug will be the same for each cylinder.
>> _______________________________________________
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Good dave.  Just don't blink. 
Sent on the Sprint. Now Network from my BlackBerry.

-----Original Message-----
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Thu, 31 May 2012 14:54:58 
To: Richard Ewald<richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net<Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

So with these calculations we had better add some wire to the front  
marker lights so that the from marker lights, tail lights and dash  
lights do not have any delays in coming on.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.

On May 31, 2012, at 8:26 AM, Richard Ewald wrote:

> For those of you that are math inclined.
> Speed of light = 186,000 miles per second
> 186,000 miles per second = 982,080,000 feet per second
> 982,080,000 = 11,784,960,000 inches per second.  That is eleven  
> billion,
> seven hundred eighty four million, nine hundred sixty thousand  
> inches in
> one second.
> Having one spark lead 1" longer will delay the spark by
> Are you ready for this?
> Are you sure?
> *0.000000000085 seconds.*
> *Holy shit, that is going to throw your timing on that cylinder all to
> hell. </sarcasm >
> *
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 6:07 AM, Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com>  
> wrote:
>
>> Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug  
>> ingnition lead
>> should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to  
>> travel from
>> the
>> distributor to the spark plug will be the same for each cylinder.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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Actually this is only a problem if someone is standing off to the side.
Otherwise they can't see both the front and rear at the same time.

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 2:54 PM, David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> So with these calculations we had better add some wire to the front marker
> lights so that the from marker lights, tail lights and dash lights do not
> have any delays in coming on.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
>
> British Car Specialists
>
> Stockton Ca 95205
>
> 209-948-8767
>
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> .
>
> .
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Also, if we're barelling down the road at speed, we have to figure the 
delays as explained by Einstein's relativity theory.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Nock" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Cc: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads


> So with these calculations we had better add some wire to the front
> marker lights so that the from marker lights, tail lights and dash
> lights do not have any delays in coming on.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> .
> .
>
> On May 31, 2012, at 8:26 AM, Richard Ewald wrote:
>
>> For those of you that are math inclined.
>> Speed of light = 186,000 miles per second
>> 186,000 miles per second = 982,080,000 feet per second
>> 982,080,000 = 11,784,960,000 inches per second.  That is eleven
>> billion,
>> seven hundred eighty four million, nine hundred sixty thousand
>> inches in
>> one second.
>> Having one spark lead 1" longer will delay the spark by
>> Are you ready for this?
>> Are you sure?
>> *0.000000000085 seconds.*
>> *Holy shit, that is going to throw your timing on that cylinder all to
>> hell. </sarcasm >
>> *
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 6:07 AM, Ed O'Neal <ed@wadsworth-eng.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug
>>> ingnition lead
>>> should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to
>>> travel from
>>> the
>>> distributor to the spark plug will be the same for each cylinder.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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>>
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>> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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The WFS Garage?, are your sure it is not the WTF Garage?

Cheerz

" Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug ingnition lead
> should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to travel from 
> the
> distributor to the spark plug will be the same for each cylinder."
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Without having seen the video
I'm wondering what effect the RHD spec is having on the price?
Best
 JK
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 31 18:01:01 2012
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From: "Al Fuller" <al@bighealey.org>
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Well, let's see - it's about one foot per nano-second, so those 6 inches
would cost you about a half-nanosecond...

Al Fuller
al at bighealey dot org
'62 BT-7
'65 BJ-8
'85 Rx-7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jonas Payne
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 10:02 AM
To: 'Ed O'Neal'; 'Healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

WFS garage or WTF garage?

Lets see, how long does it take to move 6" at the speed of light?


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ed O'Neal
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 6:08 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ingnition leads

Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug ingnition lead
should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to travel from
the distributor to the spark plug will be the same for each cylinder.
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>Not true!
>
>At a great enough height one would be able to see the front and rear 
>lights at the same time if one is tall enough, standing or stilts or 
>say a bridge.
>
>Would someone calculate the minimum height necessary so this can be 
>tested and verified?
>
>Thank you,
>John
>
>At 03:04 PM 5/31/2012 -0700, you wrote:
>>Actually this is only a problem if someone is standing off to the side.
>>Otherwise they can't see both the front and rear at the same time.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 31 18:42:47 2012
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No, no - it's a FEATURE!  The differential wire lengths allow the lights to
come on at slightly delayed times, easing the initial load on the circuit.

Al Fuller
al at bighealey dot org
'62 BT-7
'65 BJ-8
'85 Rx-7


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Ewald
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 6:05 PM
To: David Nock
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

Actually this is only a problem if someone is standing off to the side.
Otherwise they can't see both the front and rear at the same time.

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 2:54 PM, David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> So with these calculations we had better add some wire to the front 
> marker lights so that the from marker lights, tail lights and dash 
> lights do not have any delays in coming on.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
>
> British Car Specialists
>
> Stockton Ca 95205
>
> 209-948-8767
>
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> .
>
> .
$12.75
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If it wasn't the WTF Garage to begin with, our various comments have made it
so!  [hee, hee...]

Al Fuller
al at bighealey dot org
'62 BT-7
'65 BJ-8
'85 Rx-7


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 7:34 PM
To: Ed O'Neal; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads

The WFS Garage?, are your sure it is not the WTF Garage?

Cheerz

" Just a tidbit of info from the WFS Garage.  Each spark plug ingnition lead
> should be of the same length so that the time for the spark to travel 
> from the distributor to the spark plug will be the same for each 
> cylinder."
$12.75
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Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 19:22:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BHP - the real figures (contd)
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I recently did some dynoing of a BN4 gallery head engine as part of my
rebuild. Stock engine gave about 80hp at the gearbox output flange in 4th gear
and after a little fettling I got 106hp. The factory claim of 142lbft torque
is fanciful, the hp figure of 102 is optimistic at best.

Stock baseline runs
were done with a different engine that had never been apart from new but was
in good health. All runs done on an waterbrake dyno mounted in the old chassis
and calibration was checked each day.

Graphs and videos of the testing here
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/846
675

Andy.



--- On Fri, 1/6/12, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

>
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] BHP - the real
figures (contd)
> To: "Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Received: Friday, 1
June, 2012, 7:49 AM
> My message got bounced so I've
> started a new one.
> 
>
Just to be clear, my 160 bhp is at the flywheel not the
> wheels.
> 
> To
summarise my understanding
> 
> - The factory 150bhp was at the flywheel with
the engine but
> no ancillaries
> at all. So really more like 120-125 with
ancillaries.
> 
> - My  back calculated 160 bhp is at the flywheel but
> with
all the
> ancillaries included.
> 
> - That difference seems reasonable given
the cam and other
> modifications
> that my car is running. I have straight
cut gears which I
> supposed helped a
> little in the back calculation.
> 
> -
Different dynos give different results. My guy said that
> cars he tested
>
regularly showed 20 to 30 bhp less than the owners had
> obtained on other
>
dynos. His comes in bang on with the factory when he tests
> brand new BMWs
>
and Mercs.
> 
> - You can deduct another 20-25% or so from the above numbers
>
to arrive at
> the rear wheel bhp numbers.
> 
> Andy, I would be very
surprised if your stock car is really
> making that
> 150bhp at 5000 revs.
>
> Derek
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Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 04:06:27 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads
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Electricity only travels at 95-97% of the speed of light through unshielded copper wire (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_of_electricity) 

That'll make a huge difference. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com> 
To: "Ed O'Neal" <ed@wadsworth-eng.com> 
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 8:26:11 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ingnition leads 

For those of you that are math inclined. 
Speed of light = 186,000 miles per second 
186,000 miles per second = 982,080,000 feet per second 
982,080,000 = 11,784,960,000 inches per second. That is eleven billion, 
seven hundred eighty four million, nine hundred sixty thousand inches in 
one second. 
Having one spark lead 1" longer will delay the spark by 
Are you ready for this? 
Are you sure? 
*0.000000000085 seconds.* 
*Holy shit, that is going to throw your timing on that cylinder all to 
hell. </sarcasm > 
* 
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