From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 20 19:21:40 2012
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Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 21:19:30 -0400
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nash Healey restoration update
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Larry,
Did anything good ever come of that guy in Maryland with the large 
collection of Nash Healeys to help you get the things that you are missing?
BTW, there was a roadster of that body style for sale last week at Fall 
Hershey in Pennsylvania for $195,000.  It didn't sell, I don't think.  
The same dealer had a Rolls Royce for $650,000.
For those of you overseas, those prices are in US dollars.  Your 
computer may not be set up to show the dollar sign and some of you may 
not know that Maryland and Pennsylvania are US states and are next to 
each other.
Charlie


On 10/20/2012 3:52 PM, Larry Varley wrote:
> Hi Guys, I have just posted some update images on the restoration of 
> my 1954 Nash Healey Lemans Coupe, progressing steadily! comments most 
> welcome. Links below
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> Current page - http://www.acmefluid.com.au/nash/nash5.html
> Main page - http://www.acmefluid.com.au/nash/docs.html
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nash Healey restoration update
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Ron,
It shows up as a clickable link in my email program, but when I clicked 
on it, it said that the page is temporarily not available.
I'll try it again later.
Charlie

On 10/20/2012 8:59 PM, F Ronald Rader wrote:
> hey Larry.
> i wish that mine had been a creme puff like yours!! nice work!
>
> if you want to see ugly go to this site:
>
> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.491103133549.280466.638953549&type=3
>
> you may have to copy and paste.
>
> ron rader
> 1954 FHC
>
>
>
> On Sat, Oct 20, 2012 at 12:52 PM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
>> Hi Guys, I have just posted some update images on the restoration of my 1954 Nash Healey Lemans Coupe, progressing steadily! comments most welcome. Links below
>> Cheers
>> Larry Varley
>> Current page - http://www.acmefluid.com.au/nash/nash5.html
>> Main page - http://www.acmefluid.com.au/nash/docs.html
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>>
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Subject: [Healeys] Something we thankfully don't see every day
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Yesterday I came across this set of photos I'd not seen before.
They're from the Fresno Bee in August 1966 of a crashed BN2 on the
Tollhouse Road, NE of Fresno.   The licence plate appears to read NSO
407.   There is a small badge on the left of the grille.   Looks like
crossed flags.  Do any listers recall this event, or the car?   It's
only the second Healey I've ever seen that's been in a bad crash.
The car does not appear to be an M as there is no 'strap gap' in the
bonnet louvres and the exhaust system is not stock.   My guess is it
had been tweaked for extra performance.   Too much, I guess!

 

Mark Donaldson

 

Auckland

NZ

 

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/81918828@N00/tags/austinhealey/
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 20 19:54:11 2012
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From: "Elton Schulz" <eschulz@frontiernet.net>
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Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 21:54:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator
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Fellow Listers,
My BJ7 radiator has a hex boss on the bottom of the upper header (under the
upper tank). It looks like about a 3/4" wrench size. This is the original
radiator and has not been altered (I've owned the car since 1965). Do you have
any idea what it might be for? The only thing I could think of is that it
could be drilled and tapped for a future use, maybe another temperature
sensor. My radiator shop said they could solder the boss into the new header
if I wanted to. Any thoughts?
Elton
BJ7 in progress
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From: healey.nut@gmail.com
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 02:08:33 +0000
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator
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These were used for the temp sender for the temp guage, but moved to the head for more accurate head water temp measuring.  

This is a good place to put a temp sender for an electrical radiator fan if you decide to put one on.

------Original Message------
From: Elton Schulz
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator
Sent: Oct 21, 2012 09:54

Fellow Listers,
My BJ7 radiator has a hex boss on the bottom of the upper header (under the
upper tank). It looks like about a 3/4" wrench size. This is the original
radiator and has not been altered (I've owned the car since 1965). Do you have
any idea what it might be for? The only thing I could think of is that it
could be drilled and tapped for a future use, maybe another temperature
sensor. My radiator shop said they could solder the boss into the new header
if I wanted to. Any thoughts?
Elton
BJ7 in progress
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Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone 
www.blackberry.com
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Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 22:16:43 -0400
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder repair kit
	<mailto:healeys-request@autox.team.net?subject=unsubscribe>
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I need to rebuild the brake master cylinder on my BN1.
I see that Moss does not sell a repair kit but rather only a replacement
cylinder for $300+.
Does anyone know of a source for a kit only?

Best--Michael Oritt
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 20 21:10:52 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Mark Donaldson'" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>, "'Healey Mail
	List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <08FFAD7AAC3D4E02AC92E0510DD5EDC8@IBMD038403EC0B> 
	<976C2B9D7CE74FFCA958B31A9E6C5E62@IBMD038403EC0B>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 21:05:54 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac2ufBWgcVWrqAqjTNGomnLst0J77gAqli9wAAEKz1AAA4VzwA==
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Something we thankfully don't see every day
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The crossed flags looks like an old Chevy insignia.. The oil sump doesn't
look like a stock Healey pan either.. just a WAG it is a very early Nasty
boy conversion..though the single down pipe makes that guess suspect..
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 7:54 PM
To: 'Healey Mail List'
Subject: [Healeys] Something we thankfully don't see every day

Yesterday I came across this set of photos I'd not seen before.
They're from the Fresno Bee in August 1966 of a crashed BN2 on the
Tollhouse Road, NE of Fresno.   The licence plate appears to read NSO
407.   There is a small badge on the left of the grille.   Looks like
crossed flags.  Do any listers recall this event, or the car?   It's
only the second Healey I've ever seen that's been in a bad crash.
The car does not appear to be an M as there is no 'strap gap' in the
bonnet louvres and the exhaust system is not stock.   My guess is it
had been tweaked for extra performance.   Too much, I guess!

 

Mark Donaldson

 

Auckland

NZ

 

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/81918828@N00/tags/austinhealey/
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 20 22:16:06 2012
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 04:16:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>,
	Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Something we thankfully don't see every day
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Wow. My family used to live near Tollhouse. We moved a couple years before that crash occurred. 

That was a scary road; basically switchbacks up a sheer mountain wall. Where the crash occurred was one of the more subdued parts, probably near the bottom of the grade. He wouldn't have survived--rollbar or not--if he'd gone off the side. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


The crossed flags looks like an old Chevy insignia.. The oil sump doesn't 
look like a stock Healey pan either.. just a WAG it is a very early Nasty 
boy conversion..though the single down pipe makes that guess suspect.. 
dave 

frogeye@porterscustom.com 

Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE 
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 
505-352-1378 
1954 BN2 1959 AN5 
Porter Custom Bicycles 

cars: 
www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html 
gallery: 
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff 

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world 




Yesterday I came across this set of photos I'd not seen before. 
They're from the Fresno Bee in August 1966 of a crashed BN2 on the 
Tollhouse Road, NE of Fresno. The licence plate appears to read NSO 
407. There is a small badge on the left of the grille. Looks like 
crossed flags. Do any listers recall this event, or the car? It's 
only the second Healey I've ever seen that's been in a bad crash. 
The car does not appear to be an M as there is no 'strap gap' in the 
bonnet louvres and the exhaust system is not stock. My guess is it 
had been tweaked for extra performance. Too much, I guess! 



Mark Donaldson 



Auckland 

NZ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 20 23:18:02 2012
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References: <508300E1.8080100@cosmos.net.au>
  <50834DA2.50802@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 22:18:25 -0700
From: F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nash Healey restoration update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Oct 20, 2012 at 6:19 PM, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Larry,
> Did anything good ever come of that guy in Maryland with the large collection of Nash Healeys to help you get the things that you are missing?
LAST TIME I TALKED TO LEN ? IN MARYLAND HE WASN'T PARTING OUT ANYTHING.
HE DOES MAKE SOME GOOD REPRO PARTS.

> BTW, there was a roadster of that body style for sale last week at Fall Hershey in Pennsylvania for $195,000.
 It didn't sell, I don't think.  WELL WE ARE ALL HOPING IT DOES .

 For those of you overseas, those prices are in US dollars.  Your
computer may not be set up to show the dollar sign and some of you may
not know that Maryland and Pennsylvania are US states and are next to
each other.
i HAVE SOME OF THE NASH HEALEY PICS ON FACEBOOK AT THAT LINK (BTW - IT
WORKED FOR ME)

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.491103133549.280466.638953549&type=3#!/photo.php?fbid=491105858549&set=a.491103133549.280466.638953549&type=3&theater
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 02:37:31 2012
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 10:37:07 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4LNTLfYTQ-aphAssHXu18eXw1XTmde2qV_D6LNDBR2SQ@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder repair kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

An old fashioned parts shop may have a box of loose seals. I often visit 
one and come away with a handful of seals and small parts sourced from 
such a box to rebuild several (master) cylinders for just a couple of 
Euro's. However make sure first that the bore is absolutely smooth, no 
ridges, corrosion or marks are allowed. If there is any damage or wear 
chuck it and replace with a new master cylinder.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 21-10-2012 4:16, Michael Oritt schreef:
> I need to rebuild the brake master cylinder on my BN1.
> I see that Moss does not sell a repair kit but rather only a replacement
> cylinder for $300+.
> Does anyone know of a source for a kit only?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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>
>
>
> -----
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2741 / Virusdatabase: 2614/5843 - datum van uitgifte: 10/20/12
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 04:38:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, Austin Healey
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder repair kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

Looks like Pegasus Racing has them: 
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3504  I've also
sourced Girling brake and clutch masters from Pegasus at a considerable
savings over the usual suspects.



 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Michael Oritt
<michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Saturday, October 20, 2012 10:16 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder
repair kit
 
I need to rebuild the brake master cylinder on my BN1.
I see that
Moss does not sell a repair kit but rather only a replacement
cylinder for
$300+.
Does anyone know of a source for a kit only?

Best--Michael Oritt
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 07:37:57 2012
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From: "Neil Anderson" <neilandcustom@gmail.com>
To: "'Michael Oritt'" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "'Austin Healey'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAPTa0B4LNTLfYTQ-aphAssHXu18eXw1XTmde2qV_D6LNDBR2SQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 08:38:47 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac2vM01gtgRUjwpgR82b+MuL1u+k5AAW79rw
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder repair kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

Here are some sources the repair kits for BN1/2 master cyl.  I didn't see
the repair kits on the Powertrack website, but I have used them in the past
for some rare bits.  I called them direct and they were very helpful.

http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/BRAKE-ct159.html 

http://www.ahspares.co.uk/big-healey/Brakes-BRK101-to-BRK158/default.aspx 

http://www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk/ 

Neil Anderson
BT7
Illinois


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 9:17 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder repair kit

I need to rebuild the brake master cylinder on my BN1.
I see that Moss does not sell a repair kit but rather only a replacement
cylinder for $300+.
Does anyone know of a source for a kit only?

Best--Michael Oritt
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 08:06:09 2012
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 10:06:46 -0400
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121010
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAPTa0B4LNTLfYTQ-aphAssHXu18eXw1XTmde2qV_D6LNDBR2SQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<5083B433.2000500@chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder repair kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

Kees is correct that it must be perfectly smooth and a cylinder that old 
probably isn't.

So one route is to have it sleeved and rebuilt by whoever sleeves it.  
It's hard to believe that seals would not be available for it since 
brake cylinders of really old and uncommon antique cars are rebuilt 
often.  Probably the company that sleeves it has access to generic seals 
and can provide what is necessary.
White Post is close to you geographically, but they have become 
ridiculously expensive.  There is another company on the west coast who 
sleeves with brass, as does White Post, called Sierra. 
http://brakecylinder.com/
I have had work done by them and have been pleased.  They also are 
familiar with LBCs especially Sprites.
Then there is Apple who I believe use stainless steel sleeves.  I've 
heard so many bad things about them that I have always avoided them.

After all of that you may be up to the cost of a new cylinder, though 
all repro parts are suspect unfortunately.

Charlie

On 10/21/2012 4:37 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> An old fashioned parts shop may have a box of loose seals. I often 
> visit one and come away with a handful of seals and small parts 
> sourced from such a box to rebuild several (master) cylinders for just 
> a couple of Euro's. However make sure first that the bore is 
> absolutely smooth, no ridges, corrosion or marks are allowed. If there 
> is any damage or wear chuck it and replace with a new master cylinder.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 21-10-2012 4:16, Michael Oritt schreef:
>> I need to rebuild the brake master cylinder on my BN1.
>> I see that Moss does not sell a repair kit but rather only a replacement
>> cylinder for $300+.
>> Does anyone know of a source for a kit only?
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2013.0.2741 / Virusdatabase: 2614/5843 - datum van uitgifte: 
>> 10/20/12
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 08:23:05 2012
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 14:23:44 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake master cylinder repair kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A shop that rebuilt a serve MC for me--I believe they used a stainless sleeve--left a very fine hone pattern on the sleeve bore. Their argument/logic was basically the same as for leaving a hone on engine cylinders: with a perfectly smooth cylinder wall the seal scrapes all fluid off the wall, leaving none for lubrication; whereas a fine-honed surface allows a bit of fluid to lubricate the edge of the seal. 

Makes sense to me, but some things that make sense to me may not not be correct. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Michael, 

Kees is correct that it must be perfectly smooth and a cylinder that old 
probably isn't. 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 10:10:52 2012
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From: George Haywood <haywoodone@hotmail.com>
To: <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 12:10:56 -0400
References: <50821356.5060701@comcast.net>,
	<1350773328.51037.YahooMailClassic@web29703.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	FILETIME=[A79C9060:01CDAFA6]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] front fenders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

David,

Here are a couple pictures I took during restoration.  They are of the
backside of the front wings after painting.  It is a high resolution so you
can zoom in.  I think you can see the mounting tabs and relative positions but
I don't have any measurements to go with them.  I have no pictures of the
outside hinge edge where they fit to the hinge pillar.  Hope these help.

Take care,

George
'65 bj8
> Can anyone please point me in the right direction to a photo of the
hinge-post
> end of BJ8 front fenders? I've acquired a pair from a BN4 and need to
modify
> them.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 10:39:54 2012
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 10:35:05 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:11.0) Gecko/20120315
	Firefox/11.0 SeaMonkey/2.8
To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] Sweet!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I finally took the time to sit down and focus on the Team.Net archiving 
problem.
It seems to be working once again.  Click on the archive link and check 
it out.
There are still some problems, like the "prev" and "next" buttons, but 
the basic
functionality is there, the archives are getting updated every hour.

And feel free to click on the links for the Google ads, I could use a 
few pennies
and nickles for a celebratory beverage.  Maybe an Epic Spiral Jetty IPA 
or a some
of their Imperial Red...


mjb.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 16:25:45 2012
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 18:26:02 -0400
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Need small favor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have just listed my car on ebay. It is item 160906376402. Will someone
please go to that item and ask the seller a question: "Do you really have
3000 wire wheels for sale" so that I can clear up any idea that I do have
more than five. When I was listing it something about what I was doing
wouldn't let me go forward until I put something more than 3000 and I
probably should have said convertible, but once I put in "wire wheels" I
could not change it. Thanks,

Bob Johnson
BJ8
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 17:10:35 2012
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From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 10:11:08 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac2v2yb21m4E4C5CQEW8qFd9AfnEYwABidsA
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need small favor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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G'day Bob

All done.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Monday, 22 October 2012 9:26 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Need small favor

I have just listed my car on ebay. It is item 160906376402. Will someone
please go to that item and ask the seller a question: "Do you really have
3000 wire wheels for sale" so that I can clear up any idea that I do have
more than five. When I was listing it something about what I was doing
wouldn't let me go forward until I put something more than 3000 and I
probably should have said convertible, but once I put in "wire wheels" I
could not change it. Thanks,

Bob Johnson
BJ8
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 16:25:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>, Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need small favor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You really have 3000 wire wheels.  Are the new ? Are they silver or chrome? 
:)
Ray




________________________________
 From: Bob Johnson
<bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, October
21, 2012 3:26 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Need small favor
 
I have just listed my
car on ebay. It is item 160906376402. Will someone
please go to that item and
ask the seller a question: "Do you really have
3000 wire wheels for sale" so
that I can clear up any idea that I do have
more than five. When I was listing
it something about what I was doing
wouldn't let me go forward until I put
something more than 3000 and I
probably should have said convertible, but once
I put in "wire wheels" I
could not change it. Thanks,

Bob Johnson
BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 19:31:15 2012
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 20:31:41 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121010
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAJTyXLRjfC0mn3mAMpWNPCt6pnqM4kDynD90SR5Z-HHVN+iURA@mail.gmail.com>
	<1350861922.2831.YahooMailNeo@web124504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need small favor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Geeeeeeeeeesh Ray, yer slippin' ! !

<< On 10/21/2012 6:25 PM, Ray Juncal wrote:
> Are the new ? Are they silver or chrome? -:) >>

MORE important is are they 48, 60 or 72 SPOKES ! ? !

Anon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 18:59:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] HOW AUSTIN-HEALEYS ARE ASSEMBLED
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Article from Motor Sport, May 1957 on visits to MG, Triumph and Austin
assembly lines which I found this morning while cleaning up.

http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~bce257/images/Sports%20Cars%20of%20the%20Bi
g%20Five.pdf

Andy
April 57 BN4
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 21 20:04:41 2012
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Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 19:05:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HOW AUSTIN-HEALEYS ARE ASSEMBLED
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Once more with a shorter URL
http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~bce257/images/SCOTBF.pdf

--- On Mon, 22/10/12, Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz> wrote:

From: Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
Subject: [Healeys] HOW AUSTIN-HEALEYS ARE ASSEMBLED
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Received: Monday, 22 October, 2012, 2:59 PM

Article from Motor Sport, May 1957 on visits to MG, Triumph and Austin
assembly lines which I found this morning while cleaning up.

http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~bce257/images/Sports%20Cars%20of%20the%20Bi
g%20Five.pdf

Andy
April 57 BN4
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 05:52:49 2012
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	Mon, 22 Oct 2012 04:52:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bob Yule <autofarm@xplornet.ca>
To: "Andrew Thorp" <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1350871523.72774.YahooMailClassic@web124903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 07:57:49 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HOW AUSTIN-HEALEYS ARE ASSEMBLED
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

    Andrew, great to see this article.  Thanks for sharing it.  I used top 
be a regular subscriber to Motor Sport when W.B. was in charge.  I let my 
subscription lapse after his demise though.  I should have kept all those 
back issues, they might have been comforting in the seniors home!!
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Thorp" <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2012 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HOW AUSTIN-HEALEYS ARE ASSEMBLED


> Once more with a shorter URL
> http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~bce257/images/SCOTBF.pdf
>
> --- On Mon, 22/10/12, Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz> wrote:
>
> From: Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
> Subject: [Healeys] HOW AUSTIN-HEALEYS ARE ASSEMBLED
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Received: Monday, 22 October, 2012, 2:59 PM
>
> Article from Motor Sport, May 1957 on visits to MG, Triumph and Austin
> assembly lines which I found this morning while cleaning up.
>
> http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~bce257/images/Sports%20Cars%20of%20the%20Bi
> g%20Five.pdf
>
> Andy
> April 57 BN4
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 07:06:43 2012
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 08:05:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
	(Win)/5.0.19_GA_3083.RHEL5_64)
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need small favor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Done

Tim Davis BN7

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Johnson" <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2012 5:26:02 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [Healeys] Need small favor

I have just listed my car on ebay. It is item 160906376402. Will someone
please go to that item and ask the seller a question: "Do you really have
3000 wire wheels for sale" so that I can clear up any idea that I do have
more than five. When I was listing it something about what I was doing
wouldn't let me go forward until I put something more than 3000 and I
probably should have said convertible, but once I put in "wire wheels" I
could not change it. Thanks,

Bob Johnson
BJ8
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 08:55:03 2012
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 10:54:09 -0400
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need small favor
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Thanks for the question everyone. It is now answered in the listing.

Bob Johnson
BJ8 at least for the moment
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 11:32:26 2012
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 10:33:00 -0700
From: F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Nash Healey photos album on Facebook
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

sorry Ed, no tiny URL

as requested by some:



https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.491103133549.280466.638953549&type=3#!/photo.php?fbid=491107958549&set=a.491103133549.280466.638953549&type=3&theater

ron rader
1954 FHC
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 19:12:59 2012
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From: "Udo P" <mrjaja@cox.net>
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 18:04:02 -0700
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Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 register
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Hello, I have a Question about the Modell register. Is the one for BJ8/

 

Mr.JAJA
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 20:31:35 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
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UGH!  A cliff...is what I need to push this thing over.

Early BN4.

First, thanks to all for the many brake bleeding/air removal suggestions.

Today, I bled them again, and...no joy.  I took the drums off and checked that
the shoes were radiused to the drums, which they are.  All six wheel cylinders
in the car are new and correct.  The shoes are new also.  The drums have been
cut very slightly, they are not oversized.  The master cylinder is rebuilt,
correctly, and has a perfect bore.  It is a 3/4" diameter cylinder and is
correct.  First, I bled the brakes the traditional way, master cylinder to
wheels, with a helper pushing the pedal, and me opening and closing the valves
at the cylinders.  The rears went well, no air at all after bleeding.  The
fronts are pure evil.  I bled them master to wheel, then reverse bled them
wheel to master.  I STILL have a pedal that I need to press 1 1/2 times to
achieve a solid pedal.  When I hold the pedal there, it does not sink, it is
firm and stays firm.  But that first press of the pedal goes to the floor.  I
can tell that I am moving fluid, and if I spin a wheel by hand, and have the
helper step on the pedal, the wheel stops instantly.  I then did the clamping
off of brake hoses thing.  When I clamped the rear hose, there was a very
slight improvement at the pedal, but not much.  When I clamped one of the
front wheels, I then had a pedal that got firm with 1/2 of a push.  Same with
the other front wheel, so, I'm thinking the problem lies at the front wheels.
But, I've bled AND reverse bled them!  I don't know what else to do, though it
certainly seems that there is still air in the system.  How that is even
possible, I don't know.  I have no leaks at any of the lines or hose fittings.
But I've now bled through six pints of brake fluid and it seems pretty much
the same as it was when I started.  Anyone have any other thoughts?

Thanks,
Paul B.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 20:47:17 2012
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Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 19:43:07 -0700
From: F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

change the rubber brake lines.
they are flexing?
ron

On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 7:15 PM,  <fiat500f@aol.com> wrote:
> UGH!  A cliff...is what I need to push this thing over.
>
> Early BN4.
>
> First, thanks to all for the many brake bleeding/air removal suggestions.
>
> Today, I bled them again, and...no joy.  I took the drums off and checked that
> the shoes were radiused to the drums, which they are.  All six wheel cylinders
> in the car are new and correct.  The shoes are new also.  The drums have been
> cut very slightly, they are not oversized.  The master cylinder is rebuilt,
> correctly, and has a perfect bore.  It is a 3/4" diameter cylinder and is
> correct.  First, I bled the brakes the traditional way, master cylinder to
> wheels, with a helper pushing the pedal, and me opening and closing the valves
> at the cylinders.  The rears went well, no air at all after bleeding.  The
> fronts are pure evil.  I bled them master to wheel, then reverse bled them
> wheel to master.  I STILL have a pedal that I need to press 1 1/2 times to
> achieve a solid pedal.  When I hold the pedal there, it does not sink, it is
> firm and stays firm.  But that first press of the pedal goes to the floor.  I
> can tell that I am moving fluid, and if I spin a wheel by hand, and have the
> helper step on the pedal, the wheel stops instantly.  I then did the clamping
> off of brake hoses thing.  When I clamped the rear hose, there was a very
> slight improvement at the pedal, but not much.  When I clamped one of the
> front wheels, I then had a pedal that got firm with 1/2 of a push.  Same with
> the other front wheel, so, I'm thinking the problem lies at the front wheels.
> But, I've bled AND reverse bled them!  I don't know what else to do, though it
> certainly seems that there is still air in the system.  How that is even
> possible, I don't know.  I have no leaks at any of the lines or hose fittings.
> But I've now bled through six pints of brake fluid and it seems pretty much
> the same as it was when I started.  Anyone have any other thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul B.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 21:02:30 2012
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To: michael.salter@gmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
From: fiat500f@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
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Yes, I adjusted them up to the drums, then backed them off so they were just
slightly scraping.  Though I can't really drive the car to center the shoes to
the drums, I adjusted the shoes up as close as I could get them, then by hand
rotated the drum back and forth numerous times until the shoes eased up a
little bit, then adjusted them to the drum again, turned the drum again, etc.
until I go no change.

Thanks for your ideas Mike!

 - Paul B.


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
To: fiat500f <fiat500f@aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 10:53 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up


Paul you don't mention having adjusted the brakes before starting. I
presume you have done that?

Michael S

On 2012-10-22, at 10:31 PM, "fiat500f@aol.com" <fiat500f@aol.com> wrote:

> UGH!  A cliff...is what I need to push this thing over.
>
> Early BN4.
>
> First, thanks to all for the many brake bleeding/air removal suggestions.
>
> Today, I bled them again, and...no joy.  I took the drums off and checked
that
> the shoes were radiused to the drums, which they are.  All six wheel
cylinders
> in the car are new and correct.  The shoes are new also.  The drums have
been
> cut very slightly, they are not oversized.  The master cylinder is rebuilt,
> correctly, and has a perfect bore.  It is a 3/4" diameter cylinder and is
> correct.  First, I bled the brakes the traditional way, master cylinder to
> wheels, with a helper pushing the pedal, and me opening and closing the
valves
> at the cylinders.  The rears went well, no air at all after bleeding.  The
> fronts are pure evil.  I bled them master to wheel, then reverse bled them
> wheel to master.  I STILL have a pedal that I need to press 1 1/2 times to
> achieve a solid pedal.  When I hold the pedal there, it does not sink, it
is
> firm and stays firm.  But that first press of the pedal goes to the floor.
I
> can tell that I am moving fluid, and if I spin a wheel by hand, and have
the
> helper step on the pedal, the wheel stops instantly.  I then did the
clamping
> off of brake hoses thing.  When I clamped the rear hose, there was a very
> slight improvement at the pedal, but not much.  When I clamped one of the
> front wheels, I then had a pedal that got firm with 1/2 of a push.  Same
with
> the other front wheel, so, I'm thinking the problem lies at the front
wheels.
> But, I've bled AND reverse bled them!  I don't know what else to do, though
it
> certainly seems that there is still air in the system.  How that is even
> possible, I don't know.  I have no leaks at any of the lines or hose
fittings.
> But I've now bled through six pints of brake fluid and it seems pretty much
> the same as it was when I started.  Anyone have any other
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 21:17:33 2012
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To: fiat500f@aol.com,healeys-bounces@autox.team.net,healeys@autox.team.net
From: healey.nut@gmail.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 03:02:55 +0000
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Paul -

I think your BN4 uses the same type of brake cylinders as my 100 and A90.  The trick here is to use a gentle pressure system (such as ezibleed) which helps force the air out of the cylinder through the bleed valve which is placed on the bottom of the cylinder rather than the top where it should be.  That's how I get it done.

Alan
  
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone 
www.blackberry.com

-----Original Message-----
From: fiat500f@aol.com
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

UGH!  A cliff...is what I need to push this thing over.

Early BN4.

First, thanks to all for the many brake bleeding/air removal suggestions.

Today, I bled them again, and...no joy.  I took the drums off and checked that
the shoes were radiused to the drums, which they are.  All six wheel cylinders
in the car are new and correct.  The shoes are new also.  The drums have been
cut very slightly, they are not oversized.  The master cylinder is rebuilt,
correctly, and has a perfect bore.  It is a 3/4" diameter cylinder and is
correct.  First, I bled the brakes the traditional way, master cylinder to
wheels, with a helper pushing the pedal, and me opening and closing the valves
at the cylinders.  The rears went well, no air at all after bleeding.  The
fronts are pure evil.  I bled them master to wheel, then reverse bled them
wheel to master.  I STILL have a pedal that I need to press 1 1/2 times to
achieve a solid pedal.  When I hold the pedal there, it does not sink, it is
firm and stays firm.  But that first press of the pedal goes to the floor.  I
can tell that I am moving fluid, and if I spin a wheel by hand, and have the
helper step on the pedal, the wheel stops instantly.  I then did the clamping
off of brake hoses thing.  When I clamped the rear hose, there was a very
slight improvement at the pedal, but not much.  When I clamped one of the
front wheels, I then had a pedal that got firm with 1/2 of a push.  Same with
the other front wheel, so, I'm thinking the problem lies at the front wheels.
But, I've bled AND reverse bled them!  I don't know what else to do, though it
certainly seems that there is still air in the system.  How that is even
possible, I don't know.  I have no leaks at any of the lines or hose fittings.
But I've now bled through six pints of brake fluid and it seems pretty much
the same as it was when I started.  Anyone have any other thoughts?

Thanks,
Paul B.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 21:32:19 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: <fiat500f@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8CF7EDB75277894-E1C-2DA91@webmail-d020.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 21:05:55 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac2wxpCfjWNHoXzYRdGGiQcL3qpQggABGVfw
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Paul,
 Put clamps on all the flex lines. The pedal should be rock hard. If it
isn't then it's the master or a leak in the hard lines. Remove the clamps
one at a time until you find the offending wheel cylinder. Fix that and you
should have a brake system. 
Dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of fiat500f@aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 8:16 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

UGH!  A cliff...is what I need to push this thing over.

Early BN4.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 21:33:22 2012
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From: fiat500f@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
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This will be the first thing I will do on Thursday when I can work on the
beast again.  I've got to localize the problem.
Thanks David!

 - Paul B.


-----Original Message-----
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: fiat500f <fiat500f@aol.com>; healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 11:05 pm
Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up


Paul,
 Put clamps on all the flex lines. The pedal should be rock hard. If it
isn't then it's the master or a leak in the hard lines. Remove the clamps
one at a time until you find the offending wheel cylinder. Fix that and you
should have a brake system.
Dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of fiat500f@aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 8:16 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

UGH!  A cliff...is what I need to push this thing over.

Early BN4.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 22 22:48:55 2012
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 00:49:11 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: Udo P <mrjaja@cox.net>
References: <000001cdb0ba$4aa38b10$dfeaa130$@cox.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 register
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Udo,

Steve Byers, a member of this list, is the BJ8 registrar.  His email 
address is sbyers@ec.rr.com

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 10/22/2012 09:04 PM, Udo P wrote:
> Hello, I have a Question about the Modell register. Is the one for BJ8/
>
>   
>
> Mr.JAJA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 09:23:24 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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References: <8CF7EDB75277894-E1C-2DA91@webmail-d020.sysops.aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Paul,

If the brake pedal does not feel spongy but is firm after it gets 
pressure, it is not air in the system. It is play in the system, 
probably the brake shoes that need proper adjustment or possibly the 
pedal/master brake cylinder rod/connection needs looking at.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 23-10-2012 4:15, fiat500f@aol.com schreef:
> UGH!  A cliff...is what I need to push this thing over.
>
> Early BN4.
>
> First, thanks to all for the many brake bleeding/air removal suggestions.
>
> Today, I bled them again, and...no joy.  I took the drums off and checked that
> the shoes were radiused to the drums, which they are.  All six wheel cylinders
> in the car are new and correct.  The shoes are new also.  The drums have been
> cut very slightly, they are not oversized.  The master cylinder is rebuilt,
> correctly, and has a perfect bore.  It is a 3/4" diameter cylinder and is
> correct.  First, I bled the brakes the traditional way, master cylinder to
> wheels, with a helper pushing the pedal, and me opening and closing the valves
> at the cylinders.  The rears went well, no air at all after bleeding.  The
> fronts are pure evil.  I bled them master to wheel, then reverse bled them
> wheel to master.  I STILL have a pedal that I need to press 1 1/2 times to
> achieve a solid pedal.  When I hold the pedal there, it does not sink, it is
> firm and stays firm.  But that first press of the pedal goes to the floor.  I
> can tell that I am moving fluid, and if I spin a wheel by hand, and have the
> helper step on the pedal, the wheel stops instantly.  I then did the clamping
> off of brake hoses thing.  When I clamped the rear hose, there was a very
> slight improvement at the pedal, but not much.  When I clamped one of the
> front wheels, I then had a pedal that got firm with 1/2 of a push.  Same with
> the other front wheel, so, I'm thinking the problem lies at the front wheels.
> But, I've bled AND reverse bled them!  I don't know what else to do, though it
> certainly seems that there is still air in the system.  How that is even
> possible, I don't know.  I have no leaks at any of the lines or hose fittings.
> But I've now bled through six pints of brake fluid and it seems pretty much
> the same as it was when I started.  Anyone have any other thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul B.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2741 / Virusdatabase: 2616/5847 - datum van uitgifte: 10/22/12
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 01:52:10 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
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Original was bounced, too big..

-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk] 
Sent: 23 October 2012 08:36
To: 'fiat500f@aol.com'; 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

"If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
considerable time it is possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder
screw threads. In such cases tighten the bleeder screw at the end of each
downward stoke of the pedal and allow the pedal to return fully before
re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last pedal
application."

I have not been following this thread so forgive me if you've got past this
being a possibility. However, I can never get a 100% firm pedal unless I
follow the advice above which is in my BMC manual. The paragraph is not in
my manual AKD 1179D which I have on my laptop but was a subsequent addition
to later manuals such as the printed version which I keep in my
garage/workshop. One might infer that BMC realized that there was a definite
tendency for a little air to be  drawn back in when the pedal stops
moving/reaches bottom. Hence the further advice. (The threads can only have
become more worn with the passage of time).
I also suspect that a lot of our experts do this as a matter of course, so
much so that they may fail to mention it as being something to look out for.
I, on the other hand, hate bleeding brakes & always find it an ordeal so
have to be reasonably sure to get it right first time.
Anyhow, I'm sure you'll get it fixed in the end.
Simon
_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 03:56:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Patrick Yoas <pyoas@yahoo.com>
To: Healey Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Intake Manifold Copper Drain Lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I need a photo of the two copper drain lines that attach to the bottom front & rear of the Intake manifold. They are a "lazy Z" shape, but I need a photo so I can duplicate that shape.
Thanks,
Patrick
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 06:30:21 2012
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 20:29:55 +0800
From: John Rowe <jarowe@westnet.com.au>
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To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Southampton or thereabouts
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Hi

Do any members from the list reside around Southampton UK.

We, a group of four couples from Perth with our cars, are travelling to 
the UK to attend the DMH celebrations at Perranporth in May 2013.

We are trying to work out a method of getting our cars on and off the 
wharf without incurring very large demurrage charges for holding the 
cars on the wharf.

We may have to have them driven to secure lockups but that is the price 
we may have to pay.

We would be interested to hear from anyone who lives or works in that 
area that could possibly assist with logistics.

regards

John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 06:45:09 2012
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 05:37:51 -0700
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To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <000701cdb0f2$d53e8170$7fbb8450$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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re: "... tighten the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow the pedal to return fully 
before re-opening it ..."

That's how I was taught to do it.  Also, don't open the bleeder until there's pressure on the pedal (the other half of 
the equation).

Since I usually don't have help, I made my own pressure bleeder by affixing a Shrader valve to a reservoir cap.  About 
10psi on the valve seems about right; since there's always pressure on the system I think you're less inclined to draw 
in any air.

Bob

On 10/23/2012 12:48 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:
>
> "If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
> considerable time it is possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder
> screw threads. In such cases tighten the bleeder screw at the end of each
> downward stoke of the pedal and allow the pedal to return fully before
> re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last pedal
> application."
>
> I have not been following this thread so forgive me if you've got past this
> being a possibility. However, I can never get a 100% firm pedal unless I
> follow the advice above which is in my BMC manual. The paragraph is not in
> my manual AKD 1179D which I have on my laptop but was a subsequent addition
> to later manuals such as the printed version which I keep in my
> garage/workshop. One might infer that BMC realized that there was a definite
> tendency for a little air to be  drawn back in when the pedal stops
> moving/reaches bottom. Hence the further advice. (The threads can only have
> become more worn with the passage of time).
> I also suspect that a lot of our experts do this as a matter of course, so
> much so that they may fail to mention it as being something to look out for.
> I, on the other hand, hate bleeding brakes & always find it an ordeal so
> have to be reasonably sure to get it right first time.
> Anyhow, I'm sure you'll get it fixed in the end.
> Simon
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 07:49:18 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
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This seems to suggest to me that the front brake shoes are adjusted too loose.
Try adjusting the brakes tighter to see if this helps. There should be a very
slight dragging of the brakes. Also, when bleeding it is often helpful to
temporarily adjust the brakes full tight so that when you pump the pedal the
slaves cannot move & the fluid has no where to go but out. The fluid will flow
faster because the slaves cannot move which will help cause trapped bubbles to
be entrained in the flow & move on out.
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: fiat500f <fiat500f@aol.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 9:32 pm
Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up


UGH!  A cliff...is what I need to push this thing over.

Early BN4.

First, thanks to all for the many brake bleeding/air removal suggestions.

Today, I bled them again, and...no joy.  I took the drums off and checked
that
the shoes were radiused to the drums, which they are.  All six wheel
cylinders
in the car are new and correct.  The shoes are new also.  The drums have been
cut very slightly, they are not oversized.  The master cylinder is rebuilt,
correctly, and has a perfect bore.  It is a 3/4" diameter cylinder and is
correct.  First, I bled the brakes the traditional way, master cylinder to
wheels, with a helper pushing the pedal, and me opening and closing the
valves
at the cylinders.  The rears went well, no air at all after bleeding.  The
fronts are pure evil.  I bled them master to wheel, then reverse bled them
wheel to master.  I STILL have a pedal that I need to press 1 1/2 times to
achieve a solid pedal.  When I hold the pedal there, it does not sink, it is
firm and stays firm.  But that first press of the pedal goes to the floor.  I
can tell that I am moving fluid, and if I spin a wheel by hand, and have the
helper step on the pedal, the wheel stops instantly.  I then did the clamping
off of brake hoses thing.  When I clamped the rear hose, there was a very
slight improvement at the pedal, but not much.  When I clamped one of the
front wheels, I then had a pedal that got firm with 1/2 of a push.  Same with
the other front wheel, so, I'm thinking the problem lies at the front wheels.
But, I've bled AND reverse bled them!  I don't know what else to do, though
it
certainly seems that there is still air in the system.  How that is even
possible, I don't know.  I have no leaks at any of the lines or hose
fittings.
But I've now bled through six pints of brake fluid and it seems pretty much
the same as it was when I started.  Anyone have any other thoughts?

Thanks,
Paul B.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 08:19:04 2012
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 15:14:47 +0100
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
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Note:-
An interpretation of the paragraph, below, might imply that one tightens the
bleeder just as the pedal's downward stroke is ending. Not after it's
finished. That way no air can come in against the outward flow of fluid.
Works for me.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net] 
Sent: 23 October 2012 13:38
To: Simon Lachlan
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

re: "... tighten the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the
pedal and allow the pedal to return fully before re-opening it ..."

That's how I was taught to do it.  Also, don't open the bleeder until
there's pressure on the pedal (the other half of the equation).

Since I usually don't have help, I made my own pressure bleeder by affixing
a Shrader valve to a reservoir cap.  About 10psi on the valve seems about
right; since there's always pressure on the system I think you're less
inclined to draw in any air.

Bob

On 10/23/2012 12:48 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:
>
> "If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a 
> considerable time it is possible that air is being drawn in past the 
> bleeder screw threads. In such cases tighten the bleeder screw at the 
> end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow the pedal to return 
> fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the 
> last pedal application."
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 07:39:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Porsche Guy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thought this video , "Urban Outlaw", about Magnus Walker, an eclectic 911
collector was really interesting: 
http://www.reelhouse.org/mos/urbanoutlaw/urbanoutlaw]Urban Outlaw | Reelhouse
Thinking of calling my Nasty Boy an "Outlaw Healey" so it will be worth big
money.

 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 09:19:08 2012
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From: healeyguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 11:11:30 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
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So would the brake bleeding mantra between my wife and I change from "Down,
Down, Up, Up" to "Almost Down, Almost Down, Up, Up" :)
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Note:-
n interpretation of the paragraph, below, might imply that one tightens the
leeder just as the pedal's downward stroke is ending. Not after it's
inished. That way no air can come in against the outward flow of fluid.
orks for me.
imon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 09:51:18 2012
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeyguy@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000701cdb0f2$d53e8170$7fbb8450$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	<50868F9F.7090903@comcast.net>
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 16:43:41 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac2xMPPGG/kxR2jNTU2mHqsEc9F3TgAA6UAg
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, for sure.

And getting my wife to sit in the car while I crawl around underneath and to
do what she's asked (told!) is a tough business. So much so that I take it
to the small local garage, hoist it up and get one of the boys there to
help. All after hours and cash in hand.

Simon

 

From: healeyguy@aol.com [mailto:healeyguy@aol.com] 
Sent: 23 October 2012 16:12
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk; bspidell@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

 

So would the brake bleeding mantra between my wife and I change from "Down,
Down, Up, Up" to "Almost Down, Almost Down, Up, Up" :)

Aloha

Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Note:-
An interpretation of the paragraph, below, might imply that one tightens the
bleeder just as the pedal's downward stroke is ending. Not after it's
finished. That way no air can come in against the outward flow of fluid.
Works for me.
Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 10:21:37 2012
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	Tue, 23 Oct 2012 11:10:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'HealeyRick'" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
References: <1351003151.62312.YahooMailNeo@web124703.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 12:10:44 -0400
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Thread-index: AQERnuCWHDf7XOBUkBkTAdAE0wN9YJk/M4kQ
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Porsche Guy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Works better if you use this URL:

http://www.reelhouse.org/mos/urbanoutlaw/

Warning!! The clip is 32 minutes long.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 10:39 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Porsche Guy

Thought this video , "Urban Outlaw", about Magnus Walker, an eclectic 911
collector was really interesting: 
http://www.reelhouse.org/mos/urbanoutlaw/urbanoutlaw]Urban Outlaw |
Reelhouse Thinking of calling my Nasty Boy an "Outlaw Healey" so it will be
worth big money.

 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 15:13:54 2012
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 07:52:47 +1100
From: Joe and Lenore Armour <sebring@hotkey.net.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; U; PPC Mac OS X Mach-O; en-US;
	rv:1.7.2) Gecko/20040804 Netscape/7.2
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Bleeding
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Another method is to eliminate mechanical gaps and excess clearance 
between brake shoes and drums prior to bleeding the hydraulics;
adjust the linings hard to the drum surface to centralise the shoes 
which are spring and slave cylinder located ( these are able to slide 
and move off centre at the rear brake set-up ) and therefore may not be 
correctly centralised to the drums if they have been dismantled. When 
the shoes are' hard' to the drums then bleed so that all brake pedal 
/fluid movement should be going into displacementof the air within the 
system.. When satisfied with the hydraulics, mechanically adjust the shoes.

Joe
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 15:58:45 2012
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From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Simon Lachlan'" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>,
	<healeyguy@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000701cdb0f2$d53e8170$7fbb8450$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk><50868F9F.7090903@comcast.net><000301cdb128$c24878b0$46d96a10$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk><8CF7F47D0D7E99A-CE4-209A8@webmail-d083.sysops.aol.com>
	<001601cdb135$2d78b1c0$886a1540$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 08:36:52 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac2xMPPGG/kxR2jNTU2mHqsEc9F3TgAA6UAgAAxeIkA=
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

In over 40 years of Austin-Healey ownership I have never been able to
understand why woman cannot comprehend the basics of brake bleeding.

I have forgotten how many times I have asked my wife to push the pedal when
I say and then let it up when I say, but it just never works. My sons on the
other hand have no problem with it.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Wednesday, 24 October 2012 2:44 AM
To: healeyguy@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

Yes, for sure.

And getting my wife to sit in the car while I crawl around underneath and to
do what she's asked (told!) is a tough business. So much so that I take it
to the small local garage, hoist it up and get one of the boys there to
help. All after hours and cash in hand.

Simon

 

From: healeyguy@aol.com [mailto:healeyguy@aol.com] 
Sent: 23 October 2012 16:12
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk; bspidell@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

 

So would the brake bleeding mantra between my wife and I change from "Down,
Down, Up, Up" to "Almost Down, Almost Down, Up, Up" :)

Aloha

Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Note:-
An interpretation of the paragraph, below, might imply that one tightens the
bleeder just as the pedal's downward stroke is ending. Not after it's
finished. That way no air can come in against the outward flow of fluid.
Works for me.
Simon
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 16:14:38 2012
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 22:04:12 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

List,



Speed bleeders don't require repeated intructions, work every time, are much
less expensive, and don't talk back. Just sayin'.



Ed Woods



----- Original Message -----


From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, healeyguy@aol.com,
healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 5:36:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

G'day

In over 40 years of Austin-Healey ownership I have never been able to
understand why woman cannot comprehend the basics of brake bleeding.

I have forgotten how many times I have asked my wife to push the pedal when
I say and then let it up when I say, but it just never works. My sons on the
other hand have no problem with it.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Wednesday, 24 October 2012 2:44 AM
To: healeyguy@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

Yes, for sure.

And getting my wife to sit in the car while I crawl around underneath and to
do what she's asked (told!) is a tough business. So much so that I take it
to the small local garage, hoist it up and get one of the boys there to
help. All after hours and cash in hand.

Simon

B 

From: healeyguy@aol.com [mailto:healeyguy@aol.com]
Sent: 23 October 2012 16:12
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk; bspidell@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

B 

So would the brake bleeding mantra between my wife and I change from "Down,
Down, Up, Up" to "Almost Down, Almost Down, Up, Up" :)

Aloha

Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Note:-
An interpretation of the paragraph, below, might imply that one tightens the
bleeder just as the pedal's downward stroke is ending. Not after it's
finished. That way no air can come in against the outward flow of fluid.
Works for me.
Simon
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fogbro1@comcast.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 16:30:39 2012
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From: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 09:25:21 +1100
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Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
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I admit I haven't really followed this thread, and don't want to tread on
toes, but would like to add that the best way to get the air out of the
front brake cylinders is to completely de adjust the front brakes first,
which bottoms out the cylinder pistons and reduces the amount of air trapped
in the cylinder. I have found the brakes bleed pretty easily if you do this.
Cheers
Larry
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From: "Neil Blackshire" <neilblackshire@gmail.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 00:45:19 +0200
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Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox overhaul
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Whilst I have the tools out to fix my overdrive (1960 mk1 BT7 Ol #22), I
will carry out long overdue work on the gearbox, it's a no syncro on 1st 4
speed side change with oil leaks and bad syncromesh on 2nd , 3rd and 4th The
rest seems ok. I have rebuilt mgb gearboxes years ago. Am I right that If I
fit new 2nd and 3rd/4th baulk rings will the syncromesh on 2,3 and 4 work?
And any tips whilst putting it back together.

Thanks for any input

Neil
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 17:16:10 2012
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From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 16:15:59 -0700
To: "healeyguy@aol.com" <healeyguy@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
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This is a G rated forum

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 23, 2012, at 8:11 AM, healeyguy@aol.com wrote:

> So would the brake bleeding mantra between my wife and I change from "Down,
> Down, Up, Up" to "Almost Down, Almost Down, Up, Up" :)
> Aloha
> Perry
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
>
> Note:-
> n interpretation of the paragraph, below, might imply that one tightens the
> leeder just as the pedal's downward stroke is ending. Not after it's
> inished. That way no air can come in against the outward flow of fluid.
> orks for me.
> imon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 18:19:08 2012
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From: "Richard J. Hockert" <rjhco@att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 19:07:45 -0500
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Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Engine block dimensions
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Anyone know where I can locate original design dimensions for the  3000
engine block?  I am rebuilding an engine and want to blueprint the block to
insure the correct square of the block.

I need to locate:

the dimension from the centerline of the crankshaft to the deck of the
block;
the dimension from the centerline of the crankshaft to the centerline of the
camshaft;
the dimension from the centerline of the vertical axis of the piston bores
to the centerline of the camshaft

Are archived factory production drawings of the engine block available
anywhere?

Thanks in advance

Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 18:34:34 2012
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 20:33:52 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,  'Simon Lachlan'
	<simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, healeyguy@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe they don't know the difference between the brake and clutch pedal:):):)



---- Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote: 

=============
G'day

In over 40 years of Austin-Healey ownership I have never been able to
understand why woman cannot comprehend the basics of brake bleeding.

I have forgotten how many times I have asked my wife to push the pedal when
I say and then let it up when I say, but it just never works. My sons on the
other hand have no problem with it.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Wednesday, 24 October 2012 2:44 AM
To: healeyguy@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

Yes, for sure.

And getting my wife to sit in the car while I crawl around underneath and to
do what she's asked (told!) is a tough business. So much so that I take it
to the small local garage, hoist it up and get one of the boys there to
help. All after hours and cash in hand.

Simon

 

From: healeyguy@aol.com [mailto:healeyguy@aol.com] 
Sent: 23 October 2012 16:12
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk; bspidell@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 brake bleeding - follow up

 

So would the brake bleeding mantra between my wife and I change from "Down,
Down, Up, Up" to "Almost Down, Almost Down, Up, Up" :)

Aloha

Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>

Note:-
An interpretation of the paragraph, below, might imply that one tightens the
bleeder just as the pedal's downward stroke is ending. Not after it's
finished. That way no air can come in against the outward flow of fluid.
Works for me.
Simon
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 19:49:34 2012
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 18:35:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] old road
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My wife and I recently drove over San Marcos Pass in California.  A nice,
modern road, but no fun at all.  I remember driving a Porsche over the pass a
LONG time ago, and it was far more interesting.  I guess this is what is meant
by the recent referral by someone to "Old San Marcos Pass Road".  Can someone
describe to me where this road is?  I tried to find it on Google Earth, but
wasn't sure where it was.  I did find "N San Marcos Road".

I guess it's not a big deal, my wife won't let me drive like that anymore,
anyway.

Mike
Seattle
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 23 20:03:11 2012
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Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 18:58:35 -0700
From: F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] old road - Stage Coach Road, Santa Barbara, CA
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

heading north thru San Marcos pass as you get to the top of the climb
turn left onto Camino Cielo road.
it will take you to stage coach road and the Cold springs tavern

http://www.coldspringtavern.com/

ron


On Tue, Oct 23, 2012 at 6:35 PM, Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:
> My wife and I recently drove over San Marcos Pass in California.  A nice,
> modern road, but no fun at all.  I remember driving a Porsche over the pass a
> LONG time ago, and it was far more interesting.  I guess this is what is meant
> by the recent referral by someone to "Old San Marcos Pass Road".  Can someone
> describe to me where this road is?  I tried to find it on Google Earth, but
> wasn't sure where it was.  I did find "N San Marcos Road".
>
> I guess it's not a big deal, my wife won't let me drive like that anymore,
> anyway.
>
> Mike
> Seattle
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 24 07:50:26 2012
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 08:48:08 -0500
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: Peter Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] J-H on craigslist   Michigan
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<http://lansing.craigslist.org/cto/3361195993.html>http://lansing.craigslist.org/cto/3361195993.html 



I have no interest or knowledge, just passin' it along

Peter C 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 24 09:27:15 2012
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 08:17:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Peter Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] J-H on craigslist   Michigan
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

"Looks better in pix than reality"


Kinda like Lindsay Lohan.


 
Rick
"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From: Peter
Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday,
October 24, 2012 9:48 AM
Subject: [Healeys] J-H on craigslist   Michigan
<http://lansing.craigslist.org/cto/3361195993.html>http://lansing.craigslist.
org/cto/3361195993.html 


I have no interest or knowledge, just passin' it
along

Peter C _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 24 10:40:26 2012
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "F Ronald Rader" <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
References: <CAO8P17aLNiusuWvVi0c3=g8MfcKUA52goSgpJvU9ps16b=Nu-g@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 09:34:46 -0700
Cc: Healey Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] old road - Stage Coach Road, Santa Barbara, CA
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Thank you, Ron.  That is what I was looking for.  As I remember, the tavern 
is at the sharp corner where there is a slippery road due to some droppings 
from the trees (Eucalyptus?), and it is wise to remember this.  I'll have to 
give the old road a try next time I'm down there, although that may be quite 
awhile.

Mike
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "F Ronald Rader" <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
To: "List Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] old road - Stage Coach Road, Santa Barbara, CA


> heading north thru San Marcos pass as you get to the top of the climb
> turn left onto Camino Cielo road.
> it will take you to stage coach road and the Cold springs tavern
>
> http://www.coldspringtavern.com/
>
> ron
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 24 10:56:14 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 disc brake conversion
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I have a '53 BN1 which I plan to convert to front disc brakes. I plan to
purchase a kit from one of the many suppliers offering kits. Some preliminary
research indicates that some suppliers offer one kit that fits both BN1 & 2
while others offer separate kits for BN1 & BN2. Is there a difference & when
did the change occur? Assuming there is a difference and assuming I have there
earlier version, should I consider converting to the later version? I.E. is
there a significant safety/performance advantage for the later version? If you
have installed one of these conversion kits did you have any issues with the
kit that I should know about?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 24 11:26:23 2012
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 10:23:05 -0700
From: Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] J-H on craigslist Michigan
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Non running jensen healey price in reality: $500 - $1000. This depends
on how generous the buyer is.

On 10/24/12, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:
> "Looks better in pix than reality"
>
>
> Kinda like Lindsay Lohan.
>
>
>
> Rick
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
> http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
>
> ________________________________
>  From: Peter
> Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday,
> October 24, 2012 9:48 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] J-H on craigslist   Michigan
> <http://lansing.craigslist.org/cto/3361195993.html>http://lansing.craigslist.
> org/cto/3361195993.html
>
>
> I have no interest or knowledge, just passin' it
> along
>
> Peter C _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from
the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <8CF801F6590C5C5-1118-31FCF@webmail-d136.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 10:27:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?= <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 disc brake conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I didi mine on a BN2 from Dennis Welch. Completely satisfied.

 
Josi Vicente
Vargas
Musmi


Tel. (571) 321 3740
Cel. (57) 311 288 3401
Skype: jovivago
www.musme.net


Bogota, Colombia


>________________________________
> From:
"warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net 
>Sent:
Wednesday, October 24, 2012 11:54 AM
>Subject: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 disc brake
conversion
> 
>I have a '53 BN1 which I plan to convert to front disc brakes.
I plan to
>purchase a kit from one of the many suppliers offering kits. Some
preliminary
>research indicates that some suppliers offer one kit that fits
both BN1 & 2
>while others offer separate kits for BN1 & BN2. Is there a
difference & when
>did the change occur? Assuming there is a difference and
assuming I have there
>earlier version, should I consider converting to the
later version? I.E. is
>there a significant safety/performance advantage for
the later version? If you
>have installed one of these conversion kits did you
have any issues with the
>kit that I should know about?
>Thanks,
>Gary Hodson
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive:
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 24 11:41:54 2012
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From: andy pole <ampole@hotmail.com>
To: <pyoas@yahoo.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 17:31:36 +0000
References: <1350989784.89681.YahooMailNeo@web112501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	FILETIME=[6B8D8C50:01CDB20D]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Intake Manifold Copper Drain Lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Patrick
here's a photo Rich once sent me,
cheers Andy

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]
_______________________________________________
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References: <8CF801F6590C5C5-1118-31FCF@webmail-d136.sysops.aol.com>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 12:13:01 -0700
To: warthodson@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 disc brake conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The early BN1 with the narrow brakes you will need a special Disc  
brake conversion kit for.
So yes there are 2 different disc brake conversion kits




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Oct 24, 2012, at 9:54 AM, warthodson@aol.com wrote:

> I have a '53 BN1 which I plan to convert to front disc brakes. I  
> plan to
> purchase a kit from one of the many suppliers offering kits. Some  
> preliminary
> research indicates that some suppliers offer one kit that fits both  
> BN1 & 2
> while others offer separate kits for BN1 & BN2. Is there a  
> difference & when
> did the change occur? Assuming there is a difference and assuming I  
> have there
> earlier version, should I consider converting to the later version?  
> I.E. is
> there a significant safety/performance advantage for the later  
> version? If you
> have installed one of these conversion kits did you have any issues  
> with the
> kit that I should know about?
> Thanks,
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 24 15:14:02 2012
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 17:10:57 -0400 (EDT)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d290b508859616180
Subject: [Healeys] Grace is Cranky
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Fellow listers, I just got off the phone with John Nikas and it seems the  
crank shaft in Grace is beyond repair. Giant crack and no way can they get 
it to  work, so he asked me to get the word out and see if anyone has a crank 
for a  four cylinder they might be willing to part with. John is in Iowa 
right now with  a bunch of new parts to finish the engine rebuild, but as they 
were getting  ready to put everything together, this problem raised its 
head. 
    The Drive Away Cancer, Lap Around America is now on  hold and if anyone 
can help, let me know and I'll get you right in touch with  John directly 
and we'll take it from there. Thanks in advance to everyone for  all your 
help and hopefully a solution can be reached. 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1   
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 24 17:25:11 2012
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <152e9.63c2b6f4.3db9b361@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 18:24:42 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grace is Cranky
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am in Nebraska, about 4-5 hours away from Ames where I believe Grace is, 
and may know of an NOS crank (was a gentleman I talked to sveral years ago, 
so some tracking down will be needed), will update as I hear more.  Steven 
let me know if they are having any luck finding one if you have any updates.

Thanks Greg Lemon

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 4:10 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Grace is Cranky


> Fellow listers, I just got off the phone with John Nikas and it seems the
> crank shaft in Grace is beyond repair. Giant crack and no way can they get
> it to  work, so he asked me to get the word out and see if anyone has a 
> crank
> for a  four cylinder they might be willing to part with. John is in Iowa
> right now with  a bunch of new parts to finish the engine rebuild, but as 
> they
> were getting  ready to put everything together, this problem raised its
> head.
>    The Drive Away Cancer, Lap Around America is now on  hold and if anyone
> can help, let me know and I'll get you right in touch with  John directly
> and we'll take it from there. Thanks in advance to everyone for  all your
> help and hopefully a solution can be reached.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon@neb.rr.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 24 18:50:08 2012
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From: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 17:47:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing marks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am installing a new crank gear on a 100-4 and the cam gear mark does  
not quite line up as it should according to the pictures in the manual  
with #1 at TDC. How close is close enough? Should I bite and order an  
adjustable cam gear? Cheers, JQ
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 18:22:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 disc brake conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary
    Have you thought about swapping out your BN-1 spindles and  drums for
3000 parts.  I'm sure Dave Nock can supply the parts and details.  Should save
a little on the Dennis Welch price.  Just sayin'
Ray Juncal
________________________________
 From: "warthodson@aol.com"
<warthodson@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, October 24,
2012 9:54 AM
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 disc brake conversion
 
I have a '53
BN1 which I plan to convert to front disc brakes. I plan to
purchase a kit
from one of the many suppliers offering kits. Some preliminary
research
indicates that some suppliers offer one kit that fits both BN1 & 2
while
others offer separate kits for BN1 & BN2. Is there a difference & when
did the
change occur? Assuming there is a difference and assuming I have there
earlier
version, should I consider converting to the later version? I.E. is
there a
significant safety/performance advantage for the later version? If you
have
installed one of these conversion kits did you have any issues with the
kit
that I should know about?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 24 19:23:44 2012
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From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
To: "'Greg Lemon'" <glemon@neb.rr.com>, <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>
References: <152e9.63c2b6f4.3db9b361@aol.com>
	<41EF4D4D0F554C95882E3EFB55812FAD@GregPC>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 20:23:26 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grace is Cranky
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What about The Healey Werks in Lawton, Iowa.  That is just east of Sioux
City, Iowa by 10 miles and about 3 hours from Ames.  I was in one of their
pole buildings filed with Healey parts 10 years ago.  They have tons of
parts.  It might be worthwhile to call Craig and see.

Randy in Wisconsin
63 BJ7
60 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 03:52:25 2012
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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 11:47:05 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121010
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To: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
References: <8F3801D0-2C62-44E8-B829-BEB63ED61224@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing marks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If the block or head have been skimmed the marks do not line up properly 
any more. Choosing the nearest match is probably best. Often a thicker 
head gasket can be fitted to help out.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 25-10-2012 2:47, Jonathan Quandt schreef:
> I am installing a new crank gear on a 100-4 and the cam gear mark does 
> not quite line up as it should according to the pictures in the manual 
> with #1 at TDC. How close is close enough? Should I bite and order an 
> adjustable cam gear? Cheers, JQ
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 05:08:43 2012
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References: <8F3801D0-2C62-44E8-B829-BEB63ED61224@comcast.net>
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 19:04:30 +0800
To: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing marks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Rather than looking at the marks, did you count the cogs and chain links?
Sometimes the marks are wrong on the aftermarket stuff.

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 25, 2012, at 8:47 AM, Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net> wrote:

> I am installing a new crank gear on a 100-4 and the cam gear mark does not
quite line up as it should according to the pictures in the manual with #1 at
TDC. How close is close enough? Should I bite and order an adjustable cam
gear? Cheers, JQ
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 05:24:39 2012
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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 13:20:06 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
References: <8F3801D0-2C62-44E8-B829-BEB63ED61224@comcast.net>
	<50890A99.7060808@chello.nl>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing marks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Please disregard my earlier remark. That is only true for overhead 
camshaft engines, not AH engines.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 25-10-2012 11:47, Oudesluys schreef:
> If the block or head have been skimmed the marks do not line up 
> properly any more. Choosing the nearest match is probably best. Often 
> a thicker head gasket can be fitted to help out.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Op 25-10-2012 2:47, Jonathan Quandt schreef:
>> I am installing a new crank gear on a 100-4 and the cam gear mark 
>> does not quite line up as it should according to the pictures in the 
>> manual with #1 at TDC. How close is close enough? Should I bite and 
>> order an adjustable cam gear? Cheers, JQ
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>
>>
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 07:52:17 2012
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To: healeyray@yahoo.com, healeys@autox.team.net
From: warthodson@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 disc brake conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ray,
In a way, that was what I was trying to ask. Yes, I would consider that, if
there were some safety/performance advantage. Or price advantage. The reason I
was considering a "kit" is because presumably it would include everything
necessary to make the conversion. I'll contact Dave Nock & request a quote.
Thanks,
Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: warthodson <warthodson@aol.com>; healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 24, 2012 9:26 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 disc brake conversion


Gary
    Have you thought about swapping out your BN-1 spindles and  drums for 3000
parts.  I'm sure Dave Nock can supply the parts and details.  Should save a
little on the Dennis Welch price.  Just sayin'
Ray Juncal










  From: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
 To: healeys@autox.team.net
 Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 9:54 AM
 Subject: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 disc brake conversion


I have a '53 BN1 which I plan to convert to front disc brakes. I plan to
purchase a kit from one of the many suppliers offering kits. Some preliminary
research indicates that some suppliers offer one kit that fits both BN1 & 2
while others offer separate kits for BN1 & BN2. Is there a difference & when
did the change occur? Assuming there is a difference and assuming I have
there
earlier version, should I consider converting to the later version? I.E. is
there a significant safety/performance advantage for the later version? If
you
have installed one of these conversion kits did you have any issues with the
kit that I should know about?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 08:04:50 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 disc brake conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ray,
Does the BJ8 spindle (swivel axle) fit the BN1 king pin?
Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: warthodson <warthodson@aol.com>; healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 24, 2012 9:26 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 disc brake conversion


Gary
    Have you thought about swapping out your BN-1 spindles and  drums for 3000
parts.  I'm sure Dave Nock can supply the parts and details.  Should save a
little on the Dennis Welch price.  Just sayin'
Ray Juncal










  From: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
 To: healeys@autox.team.net
 Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 9:54 AM
 Subject: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 disc brake conversion


I have a '53 BN1 which I plan to convert to front disc brakes. I plan to
purchase a kit from one of the many suppliers offering kits. Some preliminary
research indicates that some suppliers offer one kit that fits both BN1 & 2
while others offer separate kits for BN1 & BN2. Is there a difference & when
did the change occur? Assuming there is a difference and assuming I have
there
earlier version, should I consider converting to the later version? I.E. is
there a significant safety/performance advantage for the later version? If
you
have installed one of these conversion kits did you have any issues with the
kit that I should know about?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 09:07:22 2012
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References: <8F3801D0-2C62-44E8-B829-BEB63ED61224@comcast.net>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 08:07:24 -0700
To: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing marks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There have been some Cam gears for the 100/4 that the timing marks  
are in the wrong position. Not sure if it was the timing mark or the  
key way that was wrong. If you have your old gear lay the two on top  
of each other and line up the teeth, then look at the positions of  
the dot and the key way.

Its been a while since I seen this problem and I thought that it was  
fixed. If you do have one that is not lined up you will either have  
to find one that is correct or install a verneer gear.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Oct 24, 2012, at 5:47 PM, Jonathan Quandt wrote:

> I am installing a new crank gear on a 100-4 and the cam gear mark  
> does not quite line up as it should according to the pictures in  
> the manual with #1 at TDC. How close is close enough? Should I bite  
> and order an adjustable cam gear? Cheers, JQ
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 09:21:03 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'David Nock'" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>, "'Jonathan Quandt'"
	<jfaquandt@comcast.net>
References: <8F3801D0-2C62-44E8-B829-BEB63ED61224@comcast.net>
	<D0932B72-C142-4E05-BD7B-F9767958CADD@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 09:21:39 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac2ywv1/3AjDQNokT1GLbbFxVNkTWQAAL88g
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing marks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Or simply look at the position of the cam lobes. #4 lobes should be in a
position that would cause one push rod to be moving up and the other down.
#1 at TDC will have the push rods in the most relaxed position. Just sit the
push rods in and watch what they are doing as you rock the cam gear.
Dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2012 9:07 AM
To: Jonathan Quandt
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing marks

There have been some Cam gears for the 100/4 that the timing marks  
are in the wrong position. Not sure if it was the timing mark or the  
key way that was wrong. If you have your old gear lay the two on top  
of each other and line up the teeth, then look at the positions of  
the dot and the key way.

Its been a while since I seen this problem and I thought that it was  
fixed. If you do have one that is not lined up you will either have  
to find one that is correct or install a verneer gear.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 12:14:27 2012
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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 13:09:37 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121010
	Thunderbird/16.0.1
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <152e9.63c2b6f4.3db9b361@aol.com>
	<41EF4D4D0F554C95882E3EFB55812FAD@GregPC>
	<00ae01cdb24f$561c53f0$0254fbd0$@midwestarchaeology.com>
	{sentby:smtp auth 24.15.13.164 authed with sales@justbrits.com}
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grace is Cranky
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 10/24/2012 8:23 PM, Randy Dickson wrote:

It might be worthwhile to call Craig and see. >>

Last I heard that would be quite difficult, Randy.  Died 2 - 3  years ago.
Wife running the shop.

Ed
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 12:24:25 2012
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 11:24:30 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] now for something completely different. no LBC content
 but auto related
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/rvs/3364107543.html

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher and Consultant
LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
Upgrades and general troubleshooting
Portland, OR


 We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 12:38:24 2012
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	UTC
From: "Ron Ray" <ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'\" Just Brits \" Shop'" <shop@justbrits.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <152e9.63c2b6f4.3db9b361@aol.com>
	<41EF4D4D0F554C95882E3EFB55812FAD@GregPC>
	<00ae01cdb24f$561c53f0$0254fbd0$@midwestarchaeology.com>
	<50898061.2050508@justbrits.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 13:32:27 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac2y3Kqy1Smuk2cxRvKza/HF4CeAngAAkT8A
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grace is Cranky
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ed,
 
You heard wrong.
 
Craig is well, and as active as ever.
  Ron
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of " Just Brits " Shop
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2012 1:10 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grace is Cranky
 
<< On 10/24/2012 8:23 PM, Randy Dickson wrote:
 
It might be worthwhile to call Craig and see. >>
 
Last I heard that would be quite difficult, Randy.  Died 2 - 3  years ago.
Wife running the shop.
 
Ed
 <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 12:54:07 2012
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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:11.0) Gecko/20120315
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To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
References: <152e9.63c2b6f4.3db9b361@aol.com>
	<41EF4D4D0F554C95882E3EFB55812FAD@GregPC>
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	<50898061.2050508@justbrits.com> <005301cdb2df$1613a610$423af230$@net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grace is Cranky
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

In case you haven't seen this yet:

http://www.desmoinesregister.com/article/20121025/NEWS/310250045


mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 15:13:44 2012
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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 17:13:34 -0400
To: Jack Feldman <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Shroud attachments
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry, I know this question has been asked a hundred times on the 
list, but now I need confirmation... the front shroud attaches to the 
two ends of the frame at the front...beneath, or on top of the frame?
I remember it being under, but I could be wrong.
Thanks,
Stephen, BJ8
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 15:34:37 2012
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From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 16:34:48 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac2y+I7SWMLeHdSFTCOhKLM4+YqJEw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Looking for a Spriget trunk handle!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Fellow Healeyoids,  I'm looking for a trunk handle from a Bugeye or Spriget.
It is for my kit Cobra.  They look the same to me as the Cobra.  It doesn't
have to be in great shape.  I'm getting my Cobra ready to sell so that I can
get another classic Mini.

Randy 
60 BT7
63 BJ7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 15:45:22 2012
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From: George Haywood <haywoodone@hotmail.com>
To: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 17:42:38 -0400
References: <a06240806ccaf5aaecb98@[192.168.0.12]>
	FILETIME=[A74BB590:01CDB2F9]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud attachments
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Stephen,

The shroud attaches under the front frame tabs with the bolt heads, two on
each tab, on the bottom (visible) and nuts at the top.

Take care,

George Haywood
'65

> From: s.hutchings@rogers.com
> Subject: [Healeys] Shroud attachments
> the front shroud attaches to the
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 16:03:48 2012
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Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 17:01:10 -0500
To: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Peter Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>
References: <013b01cdb2f8$8f753870$ae5fa950$@midwestarchaeology.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for a Spriget trunk handle!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Those Bugeye trunk handles are rare!

        Call me if you need a later one.
Peter C
--
At 04:34 PM 10/25/2012, Randy Dickson wrote:
>Fellow Healeyoids,  I'm looking for a trunk handle from a Bugeye or Spriget.
>It is for my kit Cobra.  They look the same to me as the Cobra.  It doesn't
>have to be in great shape.  I'm getting my Cobra ready to sell so that I can
>get another classic Mini.
>
>Randy
>60 BT7
>63 BJ7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 18:05:20 2012
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References: <013b01cdb2f8$8f753870$ae5fa950$@midwestarchaeology.com>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 17:01:29 -0700
To: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for a Spriget trunk handle!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Brand new ones are available for a whole $43.00 with keys.

We also may have a used one but I would not have any keys for it.

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Oct 25, 2012, at 2:34 PM, Randy Dickson wrote:

> Fellow Healeyoids,  I'm looking for a trunk handle from a Bugeye or  
> Spriget.
> It is for my kit Cobra.  They look the same to me as the Cobra.  It  
> doesn't
> have to be in great shape.  I'm getting my Cobra ready to sell so  
> that I can
> get another classic Mini.
>
> Randy
> 60 BT7
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 18:19:56 2012
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From: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 17:15:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have set #1 to TDC and revolved cam so that #4 cylinder valves are  
on the rock, #1 valves are fully relaxed but my cam gear timing mark  
is 180 degrees out as though the camshaft keyway is cut 180 degrees  
out. I
decided to pull the timing cover after checking the cam timing  
according to Norman Knok's instructions in his tech talk manual and  
finding that rocker clearances on valves #7 & #8 were obviously  
different after undertaking the test indicating that cam timing was  
180 degrees out. When I revolve cam so that timing mark matches crank  
gear mark #1 and #2 valve are on the rock, again, indicating that cam  
shaft keyway is maybe cut 180 degrees out. Have I miss read this and  
it is really my brain that is 180 degrees out. Cheers, JQ
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 19:24:43 2012
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References: <013b01cdb2f8$8f753870$ae5fa950$@midwestarchaeology.com>
	<4CC31493-E2C1-436A-95AD-F54DC3A8E74E@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 18:24:03 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for a Spriget trunk handle!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Randy,

The Bugeye handles are slightly different in that they are plain and have
no lock.

Cheers,

Curt

On Thu, Oct 25, 2012 at 5:01 PM, David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Brand new ones are available for a whole $43.00 with keys.
>
> We also may have a used one but I would not have any keys for it.
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
>         Enjoy
> www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
> .
> .
>
> On Oct 25, 2012, at 2:34 PM, Randy Dickson wrote:
>
> > Fellow Healeyoids,  I'm looking for a trunk handle from a Bugeye or
> > Spriget.
> > It is for my kit Cobra.  They look the same to me as the Cobra.  It
> > doesn't
> > have to be in great shape.  I'm getting my Cobra ready to sell so
> > that I can
> > get another classic Mini.
> >
> > Randy
> > 60 BT7
> > 63 BJ7
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
> > healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 25 22:44:21 2012
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <013b01cdb2f8$8f753870$ae5fa950$@midwestarchaeology.com>
	<4CC31493-E2C1-436A-95AD-F54DC3A8E74E@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for a Spriget trunk handle!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 10/25/2012 8:24 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:

The Bugeye handles are slightly different in that they are plain and have no lock. >>

I've got TWO (2), Curt.  Saving them for when I FINALLY get to do a pair of
Concours cars for Wife & myself <G> ! ! !

Besides, I think it's against I.C.C. Federal Law for a Flatlander to sell anything to a
Cheesehead ! ! !

'Course the reverse is NOT true evidenced by the Adult Book Stores just North of State Line with the majority being on the WEST side of SOUTH bound I-94.

Right, Randy ? ? ?

Ed
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 26 07:15:56 2012
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	<1351248206.33134.YahooMailNeo@web120805.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 06:10:34 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: John Kuzman <jjkbj7@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for a Spriget trunk handle!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

More breaking news... The Bueyes use the handle on the bonnet.  But of
course you knew that.

Cheers,

Curt

On Fri, Oct 26, 2012 at 3:43 AM, John Kuzman <jjkbj7@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Breaking News!!! Bugeyes do not have a trunk!!!
>
>    *From:* Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
> *To:* David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
> *Cc:* healeys@autox.team.net
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 25, 2012 9:24 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Looking for a Spriget trunk handle!
>
> Randy,
>
> The Bugeye handles are slightly different in that they are plain and have
> no lock.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 06:21:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: jerry adams <cjerryadams@yahoo.com>
To: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
Cc: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Jonathan,
 
For all 4 cycle engines I am pretty sure ( taught this in
Engineering school) that the crank and cam are geared so that the crank turns
two revolutions for one revolution of the cam.   So what you have said about
the timing below follows the rule.  I think that either of your gears could be
marked 180 deg out or installed wrong.  You need to check new gears against 
old gears and new crank and cam against old.  This would entail a minor tear
down by removing the gears and camshaft to check.  Better be safe than sorry
later.
 
Jerry
BN2


From: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
To:
healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2012 7:15 PM
Subject:
[Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update

I have set #1 to TDC and revolved
cam so that #4 cylinder valves are on the rock, #1 valves are fully relaxed
but my cam gear timing mark is 180 degrees out as though the camshaft keyway
is cut 180 degrees out. I
decided to pull the timing cover after checking the
cam timing according to Norman Knok's instructions in his tech talk manual and
finding that rocker clearances on valves #7 & #8 were obviously different
after undertaking the test indicating that cam timing was 180 degrees out.
When I revolve cam so that timing mark matches crank gear mark #1 and #2 valve
are on the rock, again, indicating that cam shaft keyway is maybe cut 180
degrees out. Have I miss read this and it is really my brain that is 180
degrees out. Cheers, JQ
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cjerryadams@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 26 10:08:17 2012
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	<1351257692.80120.YahooMailNeo@web125401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 12:08:23 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
Cc: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Jonathan,
If you want to do a "correct" engine rebuild, particularly on an engine as
old as a 100, it is imperative that you check the cam timing using a TDC
measuring peg, a degree wheel and a dial test indicator as specified on
page D/26 of the factory workshop manual.
Just a little wear on keyways, keys or sprockets or a cam which has been
ground slightly ahead or behind center can make a considerable difference
to engine performance.
Take the time, do it right and don't forget to set the valve clearances
back to 0.012" when you are satisfied that you have it correct.

-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*


On Fri, Oct 26, 2012 at 9:21 AM, jerry adams <cjerryadams@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Jonathan,
>
> For all 4 cycle engines I am pretty sure ( taught this in
> Engineering school) that the crank and cam are geared so that the crank
> turns
> two revolutions for one revolution of the cam.   So what you have said
> about
> the timing below follows the rule.  I think that either of your gears
> could be
> marked 180 deg out or installed wrong.  You need to check new gears against
> old gears and new crank and cam against old.  This would entail a minor
> tear
> down by removing the gears and camshaft to check.  Better be safe than
> sorry
> later.
>
> Jerry
> BN2
>
>
> From: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
> To:
> healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2012 7:15 PM
> Subject:
> [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
>
> I have set #1 to TDC and revolved
> cam so that #4 cylinder valves are on the rock, #1 valves are fully relaxed
> but my cam gear timing mark is 180 degrees out as though the camshaft
> keyway
> is cut 180 degrees out. I
> decided to pull the timing cover after checking the
> cam timing according to Norman Knok's instructions in his tech talk manual
> and
> finding that rocker clearances on valves #7 & #8 were obviously different
> after undertaking the test indicating that cam timing was 180 degrees out.
> When I revolve cam so that timing mark matches crank gear mark #1 and #2
> valve
> are on the rock, again, indicating that cam shaft keyway is maybe cut 180
> degrees out. Have I miss read this and it is really my brain that is 180
> degrees out. Cheers, JQ
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 26 11:11:41 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, "'Jonathan Quandt'"
	<jfaquandt@comcast.net>
References: <90D45C14-5208-4679-A3F1-034AEA44B292@comcast.net><1351257692.80120.YahooMailNeo@web125401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CAB3i7LKXa=mJm6AtgCvBTiBC7MoNQXJqbr=a60pRGs-mT_u=8g@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 11:12:02 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac2zlDWiYR6UuwTgSsuTjmvapym7kgACEKbQ
Cc: 'Healey list' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Agreed, I only offered "my" version if all other methods and/or marks were
obscured due to age/manufacturing/other defects/issues.... 

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2012 10:08 AM
To: Jonathan Quandt
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update

Jonathan,
If you want to do a "correct" engine rebuild, particularly on an engine as
old as a 100, it is imperative that you check the cam timing using a TDC
measuring peg, a degree wheel and a dial test indicator as specified on
page D/26 of the factory workshop manual.
Just a little wear on keyways, keys or sprockets or a cam which has been
ground slightly ahead or behind center can make a considerable difference
to engine performance.
Take the time, do it right and don't forget to set the valve clearances
back to 0.012" when you are satisfied that you have it correct.

-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 26 15:52:39 2012
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 14:52:24 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 1972 Spitfire for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira Erbshttp://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3362751550.html
77K original miles
NFI, but would look at car for serious inquiry.

IT Teacher and Consultant
LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
Upgrades and general troubleshooting
Portland, OR


 We can't solve problems by using the same kind of
thinking we used when we created them.
                                           -Albert Einstein
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 26 17:06:51 2012
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From: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 16:07:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] thanks for the cam advise
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all who offered advise on my cam issues. The new crank gear  
is from DWR and matches the old. The cam was replaced about 7 years  
ago and I just set it up per the manual, cam gear is original. Keyway  
on the cam is 180 out. Bought that new from AH Spares. Thanks again, JQ
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 10:23:40 2012
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 12:18:50 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] No Healey content but absolutely BRILLIANT.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Amazing what the combination of American financing and Kiwi ingenuity can
achieve.

Turn up the sound and enjoy those Merlins!!

http://tvnz.co.nz/national-news/warbird-flies-again-video-5108120

-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 11:49:38 2012
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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Healey content but absolutely BRILLIANT.
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

THANK YOU, Michael ! ! !    VERY, VERY kewl ! ! !  <G>

Watched several others including the one with a "Zero" [3 in the world 
still flying] ! ! !

Ed
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 11:59:34 2012
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References: <CAB3i7L+XCuQsBKCfWKPRVia0rNWBx3sgb_4LLPZpFNQepQywPA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 11:00:13 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Healey content but absolutely BRILLIANT.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

One of my favorite WWII airplanes.  I saw my first example at the Imperial
War Museum in Johannesburg, SA in 1997.  Great to see one flying again.

C

On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 9:18 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> Amazing what the combination of American financing and Kiwi ingenuity can
> achieve.
>
> Turn up the sound and enjoy those Merlins!!
>
> http://tvnz.co.nz/national-news/warbird-flies-again-video-5108120
>
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>                          *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 16:32:20 2012
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From: "Dick Matson" <medlabinc@msn.com>
To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 15:15:58 -0700
Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 15:15:58 -0700
	FILETIME=[A6761820:01CDB490]
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  No Healey content but absolutely BRILLIANT.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you.  I enjoyed those Merlins.

The restoration of this De Havilland DH-98 Mosquito to flying condition is a
labor of love.

I'm right now in the process of building a 1/4 size scale De Havilland DH-88
Comet.  The Comet is known as the fore runner of the Mosquito - very similar
in plan form to the Mosquito but over all a smaller plane. The Comet named
Grosvenor House was the winning entry in the London to Australia MacRobertson
Race in the late 30's.  I believe the Comet went on to New Zealand after the
finish of that race.

Dick Matson
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 9:18 AM
Subject: [Healeys] No Healey content but absolutely BRILLIANT.


Amazing what the combination of American financing and Kiwi ingenuity can
achieve.

Turn up the sound and enjoy those Merlins!!

http://tvnz.co.nz/national-news/warbird-flies-again-video-5108120<http://tvnz
.co.nz/national-news/warbird-flies-again-video-5108120>

--
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 16:52:26 2012
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 23:52:33 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac20lcATnPcQ9ZemSRqcmf2gINJHwQ==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Air filters
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Hi,

261049090331

Does anyone know anything about the filters as shown in the eBay listing,
above?

 

And....if it fits an HS6 will it fit an HD6? Don't want to make an expensive
assumption.

Thanks,

Simon
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 18:25:59 2012
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	Sat, 27 Oct 2012 19:20:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Simon Lachlan'" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <001701cdb495$c03e5650$40bb02f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 20:20:17 -0400
Thread-index: AQG4VdPg8Z2MK2AYlyA0xV0maSI6CZf4mDIg
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Air filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just looked at the Moss Catalog and the same air filter is used for all
models so I think that you would probably be safe.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 6:53 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Air filters

Hi,

261049090331

Does anyone know anything about the filters as shown in the eBay listing,
above?

 

And....if it fits an HS6 will it fit an HD6? Don't want to make an expensive
assumption.

Thanks,

Simon
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 27 18:43:04 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Air filters
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

?
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: 'Simon Lachlan' <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>; healeys
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Oct 27, 2012 7:27 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Air filters


I just looked at the Moss Catalog and the same air filter is used for all
models so I think that you would probably be safe.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 6:53 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Air filters

Hi,

261049090331

Does anyone know anything about the filters as shown in the eBay listing,
above?



And....if it fits an HS6 will it fit an HD6? Don't want to make an expensive
assumption.

Thanks,

Simon
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 28 00:25:46 2012
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	<8CF82BBCDE35F3D-1700-43A3A@webmail-d022.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 07:22:06 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: warthodson@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Air filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Cheap and ineffective "filters". I dont recommend them. Even the original
filters do a better job.

Gergo

2012/10/28 <warthodson@aol.com>

> ?
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
> To: 'Simon Lachlan' <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>; healeys
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Oct 27, 2012 7:27 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Air filters
>
>
> I just looked at the Moss Catalog and the same air filter is used for all
> models so I think that you would probably be safe.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 6:53 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Air filters
>
> Hi,
>
> 261049090331
>
> Does anyone know anything about the filters as shown in the eBay listing,
> above?
>
>
>
> And....if it fits an HS6 will it fit an HD6? Don't want to make an
> expensive
> assumption.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 28 01:18:23 2012
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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	<8CF82BBCDE35F3D-1700-43A3A@webmail-d022.sysops.aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Air filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 10/28/2012 1:22 AM, Austin Healey wrote:

... Even the original filters do a better job.

Gergo >>

GOSPEL, Gergo ! ! !

Simon, if you have a desire to have a Garage Queen Motor that is 'real purty' & sittin on a cute cradle never to be started --- those would be cute !

Ed

PS:  Must be China made for a huge Distributor in th US then sold to UK, LOL.
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 28 08:12:35 2012
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From: "Mike Garvey" <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 10:06:49 -0400
Thread-index: Ac21FXiR5aHR5ormSvqoT8r9NfXf3A==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I need to replace the radiator drain on my BJ8.  The existing drain (which
is a tubular left-hand-threaded concentric bore arrangement) appears to have
pipe threads (ie tapered threads and sealed with sealant) which mate to the
radiator.  

 

The replacement tap (which is a rotary valve with handle) that I have
received from Moss (pn 460-020) is sealed with a fiber washer(pn 324-671); I
am unsure if the new drain has tapered threads.

 

I am sure someone has been down this road and can advise me on whether I
have the correct replacement parts from Moss.

 

Thanks in advance, Mike

 

Michael Garvey

1967 BJ8/38046

Swampscott, MA
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 28 14:10:09 2012
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <jfaquandt@comcast.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 20:06:26 +0000
References: <90D45C14-5208-4679-A3F1-034AEA44B292@comcast.net>
	FILETIME=[B6528820:01CDB547]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Jonathon,

A point of clarification: when you set the camshaft to "on the rock" on the
number four cylinder you are setting it so that both of  the valves on number
four are closed. In other words you are setting it so that number four
cylinder is on the compression stroke. That means that the cam and crank will
by definition be 180 degrees out because timing is normally taken on the
number one cylinder. I believe that the convention to set the "rock" on the
number four cylinder is so that when that setting is done you can turn the
crank in the running direction one full turn and the timing chain will be
properly tensioned. At that point you will also find that the cam and crank
are back in time. Any manufacturing variation at that point will be obvious.

This of course is predicated on the assumption that the crank was truly at top
dead center when you started and that you were able to accurately determine
that cam was in the "rock"position. There are various methods of finding these
positions.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

> From: jfaquandt@comcast.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 17:15:08 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
>
> I have set #1 to TDC and revolved cam so that #4 cylinder valves are
> on the rock, #1 valves are fully relaxed but my cam gear timing mark
> is 180 degrees out as though the camshaft keyway is cut 180 degrees
> out. I
> decided to pull the timing cover after checking the cam timing
> according to Norman Knok's instructions in his tech talk manual and
> finding that rocker clearances on valves #7 & #8 were obviously
> different after undertaking the test indicating that cam timing was
> 180 degrees out. When I revolve cam so that timing mark matches crank
> gear mark #1 and #2 valve are on the rock, again, indicating that cam
> shaft keyway is maybe cut 180 degrees out. Have I miss read this and
> it is really my brain that is 180 degrees out. Cheers, JQ
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 28 14:41:52 2012
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To: r3m1g4@verizon.net, Healeys@autox.team.net
From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Mike,  It has been many years since I had my radiator drain tap removed, but
as I remember it is right hand threaded and is a machine thread (straight
thread).  I don't remember the size and threads per inch.  The drain tap in
the side of the block behind and below the exhaust manifold is the same type
of tap and is interchangeable as I remember.  They both use the fiber washers
to seal them.  I've seen two fiber washers, if needed, used on the block drain
tap to get it clocked the right way so as not to over torque it in order to
get it vertical (handle on top and drain hole on bottom).

Larry
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 28, 2012 10:13 am
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain


I need to replace the radiator drain on my BJ8.  The existing drain (which
is a tubular left-hand-threaded concentric bore arrangement) appears to have
pipe threads (ie tapered threads and sealed with sealant) which mate to the
radiator.



The replacement tap (which is a rotary valve with handle) that I have
received from Moss (pn 460-020) is sealed with a fiber washer(pn 324-671); I
am unsure if the new drain has tapered threads.



I am sure someone has been down this road and can advise me on whether I
have the correct replacement parts from Moss.



Thanks in advance, Mike



Michael Garvey

1967 BJ8/38046

Swampscott, MA
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
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From: "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>
To: "'Healey Mail List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <9B3A834D80D549B79816121EEE1F8298@IBMD038403EC0B>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 11:33:13 +1300
Thread-Index: Ac2zL/kZvo5fnShQRjCVeIdSrmZtRgCK521g
Subject: [Healeys] Oh the joys of the open road!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I came upon this purely by chance. I found it to be an interesting
read.  In fact I've printed it off and saved it.   I see Volvo have a
heartbeat monitor, so you know if anyone is hiding in your car.   Not
much use in a Healey!   :-)

Mark

Auckland
NZ


http://www.flickr.com/photos/brizzlebornandbred/5108328806/
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Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 20:31:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Customized Radiator???
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,
 
I am considering a project that could involve replacing the std BJ8 radiator
with a customized radiator - that is a different size/shape - probably
somewhat wider and shorter in height.  The approx same area should be
possible.  Better cooling efficiency would be a plus as that could allow a
smaller area.
 
I have seen several Healeys with alloy rads - who makes them and who do you
know in the US that does custom shape rads to order using normal cores?
 
Thx. 












Robert N. Blair
  Yellow 65BJ8
  RNBmail@yahoo.com

 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 01:47:08 2012
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 08:33:11 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121010
	Thunderbird/16.0.1
To: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
References: <1351481502.54427.YahooMailClassic@web162902.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Customized Radiator???
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If you consider a custom radiator get the biggest cooling capacity that 
will fit. One can never have enough and it should give piece of mind 
under all circumstances. Do not forget to fit an overflow/expansion 
vessel and renew all hoses including the ones for the heater for silicon 
items. Check the condition of the heater radiator core. The engine 
temperature (sleeved thermostat 70C, 72C, 80C, 86C) can be chosen as you 
wish without the worry of overheating, 80C or 86C would be preferable, 
however do fit a proper thermostatically controlled electric fan with 
the switching on temperature about 95C and switching off temperature 
about 90C (for a 86C thermostat) and a 10psi rad cap to raise the 
boiling point.
Kees Oudesluijs



Op 29-10-2012 4:31, Robert Blair schreef:
> Listers,
>   
> I am considering a project that could involve replacing the std BJ8 radiator
> with a customized radiator - that is a different size/shape - probably
> somewhat wider and shorter in height.  The approx same area should be
> possible.  Better cooling efficiency would be a plus as that could allow a
> smaller area.
>   
> I have seen several Healeys with alloy rads - who makes them and who do you
> know in the US that does custom shape rads to order using normal cores?
>   
> Thx.
>
> Robert N. Blair
>    Yellow 65BJ8
>    RNBmail@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 03:25:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>, Healey List
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Customized Radiator???
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Robert,

I'd be interested to see what you come up with.  The available
space is really limited in width by the chassis uprights and the size of the
bottom tank is limited by the distance between the chassis and the suspension
mounting points.  I think one of the reasons our radiators are so tall is the
necessity to keep the radiator inlet higher than the thermostat housing in the
engine.  If the thermostat is higher than the radiator inlet, it can cause air
to be trapped in the system.  One manufacturer of custom alloy radiators is
Ron Davis:  http://www.rondavisradiators.com/


 
Rick


"Madman in a death
machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
To:
Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 11:31 PM
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Customized Radiator???
 
Listers,


I have seen several
Healeys with alloy rads - who makes them and who do you
know in the US that
does custom shape rads to order using normal cores

Robert N. Blair
  Yellow
65BJ8
  RNBmail@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 05:36:17 2012
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 22:36:16 +1100
To: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Customized Radiator???
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

With all due respect, and sincerely  Robert,
Is it a Healey?
Healey engine?
If so, then Feel free to redesign it to the limits of your thermodynamics
education and experience.
If you have had your block & head seriously cleaned, I mean Redistriped.
And your timing is correct and yadadadad. And you know a bloke who gets more
horsepower per litre who says he can get more by redesigning the radiator?
Then.
Go for it.
No? Historic Racing? Limited by rules? Wondering How some of those historic
racers are so fast???
Without modern stuff??
Peter Jackson in Au??
Alloy radiators are all about less water. Lower weight at the front.
Reduce the weight of the radiator??
Easy. Make it smaller.
Hold less water.
Therefore it weighs less.
Easy. Rocket science 101
An alloy radiator holding less water will weigh less.
Make it out of plastic, and have an all alloy motor.
Think.
We have a big cast iron heat sink. It's an engine.
Lose weight? Most efficient method is removing trim, hoods, windscreens,
lighter batteries, alloy wheels, and drivers getting fitter. Last one made my
biggest lap time improvement.....
Oh. Redistrip the block. And the head.
Thats the thermal efficiency thing.
Weight loss and fitness. That's the other  thing.
Peter Jackson? One of the fittest blokes I've ever known. A man who has really
become one of the greatest Healey drivers globally in the past 15 years. And
is still a nice bloke!
 Totally focussed, and totally detail oriented. Legal car. Totally a dedicated
racer. Ask Peter why he doesn't run an alloy radiator.

Sincerely.
Chris

Sent from my personal bunker at NASA. No Bill. I don't want a cigar.

On 29/10/2012, at 2:31 PM, Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I am considering a project that could involve replacing the std BJ8
radiator
> with a customized radiator - that is a different size/shape - probably
> somewhat wider and shorter in height.  The approx same area should be
> possible.  Better cooling efficiency would be a plus as that could allow a
> smaller area.
>
> I have seen several Healeys with alloy rads - who makes them and who do you
> know in the US that does custom shape rads to order using normal cores?
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 06:41:45 2012
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 08:42:15 -0400
From: ggilliam@usol.com
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/0.8.1
Subject: [Healeys] Silverstone Listing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just showed up on Bring A Trailer..

  
http://bringatrailer.com/2012/10/28/brit-streamliner-1949-healey-silverstone/
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 11:06:51 2012
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References: <4d1ccb483a442fc99c1ca4db2e92dd38@usol.com>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 10:06:04 -0700
To: ggilliam@usol.com
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Silverstone Listing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Also, at the bottom of that page
http://bringatrailer.com/2009/01/09/winning-history-49-healey-silverstone-roadster/
A works Silverstone for sale
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)



On Mon, Oct 29, 2012 at 5:42 AM, <ggilliam@usol.com> wrote:

> Just showed up on Bring A Trailer..
>
>  http://bringatrailer.com/2012/**10/28/brit-streamliner-1949-**
> healey-silverstone/<http://bringatrailer.com/2012/10/28/brit-streamliner-1949-healey-silverstone/>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 12:32:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?= <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A friend is restoring a 3 carb Healey and he is uncertain about putting the 3
weber convertion. Can anyone help him clarify his dilema on what to do. He
plans to use a mild camshaft and probably high compression pistons. No more.
 plus and minus ....!!!

thanks,



Josi Vicente Vargas
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 14:20:23 2012
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 21:20:36 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?= <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have some experience with webers on Mini engines. They are much more
thirsty, tend to offer less torque at low revs, some times they make
coldstarts hard, but offer some extra on top, and much better
accelerator-response . All-in-all, I think tey are only good on all-out
racing aor very highly tuned fastroad cars.

Gergo

PS: they sound and look very racish

2012/10/29 Josi Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>

> A friend is restoring a 3 carb Healey and he is uncertain about putting
> the 3
> weber convertion. Can anyone help him clarify his dilema on what to do. He
> plans to use a mild camshaft and probably high compression pistons. No
> more.
>  plus and minus ....!!!
>
> thanks,
>
>
>
> Josi Vicente Vargas
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
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References: <1351539174.44916.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 13:39:47 -0700
To: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?= <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We have had a couple sets that we installed for customer against my
recomendations. They have never been really satisfied with them. They
either work great at slow speeds and  not good on performance, or
they haul ass and will not idle. They are always hard starting and
gas mileage sucks.

Only time i would recomend is in an all out performance motor.

Yes I know there will be those that swear by them, but if they
weren't designed for the car originally you will spend tons of hours
and bundles of $$$$$ to get them close to what you want.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Oct 29, 2012, at 12:32 PM, Josi Vicente Vargas wrote:

> A friend is restoring a 3 carb Healey and he is uncertain about
> putting the 3
> weber convertion. Can anyone help him clarify his dilema on what to
> do. He
> plans to use a mild camshaft and probably high compression pistons.
> No more.
>  plus and minus ....!!!
>
> thanks,
>
>
>
> Josi Vicente Vargas
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 14:57:26 2012
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References: <1351539174.44916.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 13:57:39 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?= <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

IIRC there are 7 different calibrated items on a DCOE carb.  Let's see if I
can recall them all:
1. Chokes
2. needle and seat
3. idle jets
4. main jets
5. pump jets
6. air corrector jets
7. emulsion tubes
Hey what do you know, I still remember them all!
Anyway my point is, the carbs do not come out of the box set for the car.
 Most likely all 7 of those adjustable items will be wrong for your buddies
car.
If you don't know Webers trying to dial in DCOEs is a stone bitch.
The upside is a set of Webers does add 52 show power to the car.
Me? I would stay with SUs.
Rick

On Mon, Oct 29, 2012 at 12:32 PM, Josi Vicente Vargas
<jvvmusme@yahoo.com>wrote:

> A friend is restoring a 3 carb Healey and he is uncertain about putting
> the 3
> weber convertion. Can anyone help him clarify his dilema on what to do. He
> plans to use a mild camshaft and probably high compression pistons. No
> more.
>  plus and minus ....!!!
>
> thanks,
>
>
>
> Josi Vicente Vargas
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 15:21:36 2012
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From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1351539174.44916.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<42445E89-A32E-4046-927D-22176970926A@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:19:27 -0500
Thread-Index: AQJ7Qjlbw7wW5wbk0+plHBgWK/+DzQKUubkFlmEItgA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Fellow Healeyoids,  I had a 45DCOE on my 67 Cooper S with a super-hot,
road/race engine.  It was great for top end, accelerated fast and idled just
ok.  Slow speed was rough.  It was a bitch and very expensive getting the
chokes, mains, idles and pump jets set up.  But by far the worst part was
the fuel consumption.  The Weber was so damn rich that as a poor college
student I went broke on fuel (also I drove it like a madman).  I think that
putting Webers on a Healey would look great, but so does a triple SU setup,
which I currently have.  Three Webers on a Healey would be awfully tough to
tune.   I'd definitely stick to SUs.
Randy
60 BT7
63 BJ7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 3:40 PM
To: Josi Vicente Vargas
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey

We have had a couple sets that we installed for customer against my
recomendations. They have never been really satisfied with them. They either
work great at slow speeds and  not good on performance, or they haul ass and
will not idle. They are always hard starting and gas mileage sucks.

Only time i would recomend is in an all out performance motor.

Yes I know there will be those that swear by them, but if they weren't
designed for the car originally you will spend tons of hours and bundles of
$$$$$ to get them close to what you want.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Oct 29, 2012, at 12:32 PM, Josi Vicente Vargas wrote:

> A friend is restoring a 3 carb Healey and he is uncertain about
> putting the 3 weber convertion. Can anyone help him clarify his dilema
> on what to do. He plans to use a mild camshaft and probably high
> compression pistons.
> No more.
>  plus and minus ....!!!
>
> thanks,
>
>
>
> Josi Vicente Vargas
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 15:22:36 2012
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 14:22:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>,
	=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?= <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 To adjust each of those calibrated items, one has to have an assortment of
each to change in and out.  And they are not cheap!  Add into that the dyno
time in order to get everything dialed in and I'd favor sticking with triple
SUs.


 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From: Richard
Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Josi Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 4:57
PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
 
IIRC there are 7
different calibrated items on a DCOE carb.  Let's see if I
can recall them
all:
1. Chokes
2. needle and seat
3. idle jets
4. main jets
5. pump jets
6.
air corrector jets
7. emulsion tubes
Hey what do you know, I still remember
them all!
Anyway my point is, the carbs do not come out of the box set for the
car.
Most likely all 7 of those adjustable items will be wrong for your
buddies
car.
If you don't know Webers trying to dial in DCOEs is a stone
bitch.
The upside is a set of Webers does add 52 show power to the car.
Me? I
would stay with SUs.
Rick
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 16:09:11 2012
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From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 15:08:28 -0700
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If you are going with webers befriend an expert and budget lots of dyno time.
I would stick to sus. Personally.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:22 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> To adjust each of those calibrated items, one has to have an assortment of
> each to change in and out.  And they are not cheap!  Add into that the dyno
> time in order to get everything dialed in and I'd favor sticking with
triple
> SUs.
>
>
>
> Rick
>
>
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
> http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Richard
> Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
> To: Josi Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 4:57
> PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
>
> IIRC there are 7
> different calibrated items on a DCOE carb.  Let's see if I
> can recall them
> all:
> 1. Chokes
> 2. needle and seat
> 3. idle jets
> 4. main jets
> 5. pump jets
> 6.
> air corrector jets
> 7. emulsion tubes
> Hey what do you know, I still remember
> them all!
> Anyway my point is, the carbs do not come out of the box set for the
> car.
> Most likely all 7 of those adjustable items will be wrong for your
> buddies
> car.
> If you don't know Webers trying to dial in DCOEs is a stone
> bitch.
> The upside is a set of Webers does add 52 show power to the car.
> Me? I
> would stay with SUs.
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 17:27:06 2012
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 17:27:36 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

>  IIRC there are 7 different calibrated items on a DCOE carb.  Let's see if I
>  can recall them all:
>  1. Chokes
>  2. needle and seat
>  3. idle jets
>  4. main jets
>  5. pump jets
>  6. air corrector jets
>  7. emulsion tubes
>  Hey what do you know, I still remember them all!


And there are also 3.5 or 4.5 auxillary venturis.  Usually not an issue.

Yes, the brass bits are expensive.  I have a small plastic tackle box that
holds all mine.  I should probably do an up to date inventory of the 
contents,
I imagine the replacement cost would be on the order of $1500, give or take
a few hundred.

mjb.

PS:  Anyone want to buy a brand new 40 DCOE?
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 17:56:13 2012
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 10:54:24 +1100
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And there are the webers themselves. 40, 45, 48....
SU's are a bit like playing a recorder. Webers are for when you are in an
orchestra
If you have someone who knows what they are doing, webers offer a huge range
of options. It took Peter Molloy less than half an hour on a with a gas
analyzer to set mine up. His calculations were almost spot on.
It's a lot easier than trying to file needles....
Not for everyone, I agree.
Best
Chris


On 30/10/2012, at 10:27 AM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

>> IIRC there are 7 different calibrated items on a DCOE carb.  Let's see if
I
>> can recall them all:
>> 1. Chokes
>> 2. needle and seat
>> 3. idle jets
>> 4. main jets
>> 5. pump jets
>> 6. air corrector jets
>> 7. emulsion tubes
>> Hey what do you know, I still remember them all!
>
>
> And there are also 3.5 or 4.5 auxillary venturis.  Usually not an issue.
>
> Yes, the brass bits are expensive.  I have a small plastic tackle box that
> holds all mine.  I should probably do an up to date inventory of the
contents,
> I imagine the replacement cost would be on the order of $1500, give or take
> a few hundred.
>
> mjb.
>
> PS:  Anyone want to buy a brand new 40 DCOE?
> ______________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 19:05:08 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 10/29/2012 6:27 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

PS:  Anyone want to buy a brand new 40 DCOE? >>

Try posting on Spridgets List, Mark.  They'll but anything <G> ! ! !

Ed
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 29 19:22:08 2012
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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 19:14:19 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <lists@autox.team.net>
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To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
References: <3E369986-3F48-426E-86B0-594F60076821@me.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: BJ 7 Camshaft Specs
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To send mail to healeys@autox.team.net you send mail to 
healeys@autox.team.net

mjb.


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	BJ 7 Camshaft Specs
Date: 	Mon, 29 Oct 2012 18:42:51 -0400
From: 	Philip Jarrett <pgjarrett@me.com>

	



I am looking for the BJ 7 29F eng  intake centerline camshaft degrees . I think it is 106 but can cannot confirm this , can someone confirm this and hopefully provide a reference
Thanks Phil
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	<508F10E8.1000608@bradakis.com> <508F27DC.1000101@justbrits.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 18:31:09 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Just Brits Shop <shop@justbrits.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
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Plus the rhd /lhd issue for the manifolds. And linkage.
Put 3 hd8s if you more cfm
On Oct 29, 2012 6:05 PM, Just Brits " Shop" <shop@justbrits.com> wrote:

> << On 10/29/2012 6:27 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>
> PS:  Anyone want to buy a brand new 40 DCOE? >>
>
> Try posting on Spridgets List, Mark.  They'll but anything <G> ! ! !
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From: Phil Jarrett <pjarrett14@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 21:46:50 -0400
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 29F Cam Specs
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am looking for the BJ 7 29F eng  intake centerline camshaft degrees . I
think it is 106 but can not confirm this , can someone confirm this and
hopefully provide a reference
Thanks Phil
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 02:02:11 2012
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Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 08:02:30 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Cc: Just Brits Shop <shop@justbrits.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There is no point in putting triple Webers on an engine with a mild cam.
Webers offer instant and better reaction in competition scenarios and
better top end performance. If you are not competing then the Webers will
just be for show.

Derek

On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 at 1:31 AM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:

> Plus the rhd /lhd issue for the manifolds. And linkage.
> Put 3 hd8s if you more cfm
> On Oct 29, 2012 6:05 PM, Just Brits " Shop" <shop@justbrits.com> wrote:
>
> > << On 10/29/2012 6:27 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> >
> > PS:  Anyone want to buy a brand new 40 DCOE? >>
> >
> > Try posting on Spridgets List, Mark.  They'll but anything <G> ! ! !
> >
> > Ed
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 03:18:50 2012
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Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 10:19:15 +0100
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To: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jos=E9_Vicente_Vargas?= <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
References: <1351539174.44916.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber vs SU on a 3 carb Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For outright performance and looks go Weber or better still DellOrto. 
They are way better than the SU's, much more stable, especially the 
DellOrto's and offer a far superior response. Also there is little that 
can wear apart from some small O-rings and the membrane of the 
accelerator pump. The butterfly spindle runs in ball bearings. The 
widely available 40mm should do but do get the chokes and jetting right 
which will be the biggest challenge. The best results will be had with a 
faster cam and a higher compression ratio and you may have to experiment 
with the ignition advance curve. Once properly set up the system will be 
hard to beat, even by fuel injection.
Read the  book  "How to build & power tune WEBER & DELLORTO CCOE & DHLA 
Carburettors" by Des Hamill, ISBN: 1-901295-64-8; UPC: 36847-00164-3, 
first though.
Kees Oudesluijs



Op 29-10-2012 20:32, Josi Vicente Vargas schreef:
> A friend is restoring a 3 carb Healey and he is uncertain about putting the 3
> weber convertion. Can anyone help him clarify his dilema on what to do. He
> plans to use a mild camshaft and probably high compression pistons. No more.
>   plus and minus ....!!!
>
> thanks,
>
>
>
> Josi Vicente Vargas
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From: Phil Jarrett <pjarrett14@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 09:00:08 -0400
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ Cam Specs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am looking for the BJ 7 29F eng  intake centerline camshaft degrees . I
think it is 106 but can not confirm this , can someone confirm this and
hopefully provide a reference
Thanks Phil
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 09:42:36 2012
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From: Phil Jarrett <pjarrett14@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 11:41:29 -0400
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  BJ Cam Specs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

> From: Phil Jarrett <pjarrett14@gmail.com>
> Date: 30 October, 2012 11:40:09 EDT
> To: "Richard J. Hockert" <rjh@hockertlaw.us>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ Cam Specs
>
> Thanks for the info
>
> I called Delta cams they said 106-108
> So we're all in the sane area , just trying to find an actual OEM number,
must be a lost chart somewhere
> Thanks Phil
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2012-10-30, at 11:35, "Richard J. Hockert" <rjh@hockertlaw.us> wrote:
>
>> I believe that all factory camshafts have 110 degree intake centerlines
and
>> 105 degree exhaust centerlines.  That makes the camshaft centerline 107.5
>> degrees.
>>
>> BJ7 camshaft timing is 10/50 intake and 45/15 exhaust. Lift at the cam for
>> intake and exhaust is .245; seat to seat duration is 240 intake 240
exhaust.
>>
>> Best regards,
>> Jim Hockert
>> Dallas, TX
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Phil Jarrett
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2012 8:00 AM
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] BJ Cam Specs
>>
>> I am looking for the BJ 7 29F eng  intake centerline camshaft degrees . I
>> think it is 106 but can not confirm this , can someone confirm this and
>> hopefully provide a reference Thanks Phil
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
>> $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjhco@att.net
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Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 16:11:06 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Heater tap blanking plate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi all,

I'm removing the heater from  my car as I figure it's hot enough already
and I want to remove all unecessary bits..

I will be removing the heater tap, a side benefit being easier access to
number 6 plug. I've looked in various suppliers parts catalogues but can't
find a blanking plate to replace the tap.

SC parts have a blanking plate for a pre 48862 BN4 water drain tap
replacement. From the diagram it looks very similar to the heater tap
arrangement. Anyone know if it would fit or where to get a blaking plate?

Deek
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 10:13:27 2012
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From: "Al Fuller" <al@bighealey.org>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "'healeys'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <850645570.328315.1350400070716.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1091003661.328380.1350400126011.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 12:12:53 -0400
thread-index: Ac2rsH6Wj+jc4ah5T96lR1YVeaX+ZQLCE9dg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Bob:

On the morning I attempted to drive the Healey to Conclave this year, it
would not start.  Long story short, it had dropped a valve [replacement,
hardened] valve seat as it cranked.

On disassembly, it appears the engine [which had about 10-15 years and
~20,000 miles on it] didn't have significant 'gunk'.  The rings look good,
not much pan sludge, etc.

I buy gas at Costco when at home, and try to use major brands when on the
road.

I hope this helps your inquiry.

Al Fuller
al at bighealey dot org
'62 BT-7
'65 BJ-8
'85 Rx-7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 11:09 AM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Question

Got curious about something. With all the talk/marketing about cleaners in
gas (Techron, 'Top Tier,' etc.), I would be interested to hear from Healey
owners who have refreshed an engine in the last 10-20 years or so. I'm not
talking about a rebuild of an original engine or barn find but, say, engine
was rebuilt 10-20 years ago, run for 30-50K miles or so, then rebuilt again
recently (probably gonna be a small sample). In general, how much/what type
of crud are we seeing, particularly on intake valves. Would also like to
know if there's been any issues with pan sludge, gunk in the ring grooves,
etc. Would be helpful to know which brand of gas you mostly use. 

I know a lot of the gunk can be attributed to PCV valves venting back into
the manifold, and (most) Healeys don't have them, but I suspect you can
still get some varnish on the backside of the intake valves. 

Bob 


--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 10:47:25 2012
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Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 12:47:37 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater tap blanking plate
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Derek
Easy one to make. Some flat stock and a couple 1/4 inch holes. Use the stock
gasket or make one.
Aloha
Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Job derek.c.job@gmail.com

 Anyone know if it would fit or where to get a blaking plate?
Deek
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 12:09:36 2012
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From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 11:06:30 -0700
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater tap blanking plate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Easy enough to make one from a flat of steel.  Cut file and drill then make a
gasket and presto.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 30, 2012, at 9:11 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I'm removing the heater from  my car as I figure it's hot enough already
> and I want to remove all unecessary bits..
>
> I will be removing the heater tap, a side benefit being easier access to
> number 6 plug. I've looked in various suppliers parts catalogues but can't
> find a blanking plate to replace the tap.
>
> SC parts have a blanking plate for a pre 48862 BN4 water drain tap
> replacement. From the diagram it looks very similar to the heater tap
> arrangement. Anyone know if it would fit or where to get a blaking plate?
>
> Deek
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 12:21:34 2012
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Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 18:20:52 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
Cc: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater tap blanking plate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep, I'll get my firendly mechanic to make one for me. I called SC and they
don't carry the water tap blanking plate in stock.

Derek

On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 at 6:06 PM, Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>wrote:

> Easy enough to make one from a flat of steel.  Cut file and drill then
> make a gasket and presto.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 30, 2012, at 9:11 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm removing the heater from  my car as I figure it's hot enough already
> > and I want to remove all unecessary bits..
> >
> > I will be removing the heater tap, a side benefit being easier access to
> > number 6 plug. I've looked in various suppliers parts catalogues but
> can't
> > find a blanking plate to replace the tap.
> >
> > SC parts have a blanking plate for a pre 48862 BN4 water drain tap
> > replacement. From the diagram it looks very similar to the heater tap
> > arrangement. Anyone know if it would fit or where to get a blaking plate?
> >
> > Deek
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 14:41:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There's been a few threads on disc brake upgrades lately so I thought I'd
share what I've been doing with my BJ7 that needed replacement of some scored
discs and rusty calipers.  The later BJ8s had the best stock front brakes
using a thicker rotor and a caliper with bigger pads and pistons. There are
also more hi-performance pads available for the bigger calipers. 
Unfortunately, they won't bolt on to the earlier cars as the spacing between
the caliper mounting lugs is 3.25" on the earlier cars and 3.50" on the BJ8s. 
I found this webpage that describes using calipers from an early '70s Mercury
Capri with the later discs as the Capri calipers have the correct lug
spacing: 
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2247236/1963-austin-healey-3000/page-2  One of
the benefits mentioned is that Capri calipers were cheaply available from
rebuilders, like Rock Auto.  That has changed.  In my experience, none of the
suppliers had them and I finally tracked a pair of
 rebuildable cores down in a junkyard in Idaho for $75 and spent another $70
to have them rebuilt at a local company that does caliper rebuilding for some
of the major suppliers.  The webpage mentions the differences between the
metric Capri calipers and the standard Healey ones except for one major item. 
The mounting holes on the Capri calipers are metric and slightly larger than
the Healey ones.  Luckily, later TR6s used a mounting bolt that have a metric
head and shank to fit the Capri mounting holes and a standard thread on the
bolt to fit the Healey lugs (I don't know who figures this stuff out or how
they do it, but I'm glad they post on the internet).  So far, the swap seems
to be going smoothly, I'll post up when it's all done.  Disclaimer:  Screw
with your brakes at your own risk!



 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 16:01:57 2012
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References: <1351633264.92220.YahooMailNeo@web124703.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 23:02:20 +0100
To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
	milter-greylist-4.0 (smtpout2.bornet.net [148.160.16.68]); Tue, 30 Oct
	2012 23:02:23 +0100 (CET)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Do not forget to fit a bigger master cylinder. Without it your pedal will
bottom out before you have full brake pressure. Can be very dangerous. I do
not remember exactly but I believe that the next bigger size will be
adequate.

Magnus Karlsson
www.concourshealeys.com

30 okt 2012 kl. 22:41 skrev HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>:

> There's been a few threads on disc brake upgrades lately so I thought I'd
> share what I've been doing with my BJ7 that needed replacement of some
scored
> discs and rusty calipers.  The later BJ8s had the best stock front brakes
> using a thicker rotor and a caliper with bigger pads and pistons. There are
> also more hi-performance pads available for the bigger calipers.
> Unfortunately, they won't bolt on to the earlier cars as the spacing
between
> the caliper mounting lugs is 3.25" on the earlier cars and 3.50" on the
BJ8s.
> I found this webpage that describes using calipers from an early '70s
Mercury
> Capri with the later discs as the Capri calipers have the correct lug
> spacing:
> http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2247236/1963-austin-healey-3000/page-2  One
of
> the benefits mentioned is that Capri calipers were cheaply available from
> rebuilders, like Rock Auto.  That has changed.  In my experience, none of
the
> suppliers had them and I finally tracked a pair of
> rebuildable cores down in a junkyard in Idaho for $75 and spent another $70
> to have them rebuilt at a local company that does caliper rebuilding for
some
> of the major suppliers.  The webpage mentions the differences between the
> metric Capri calipers and the standard Healey ones except for one major
item.
> The mounting holes on the Capri calipers are metric and slightly larger
than
> the Healey ones.  Luckily, later TR6s used a mounting bolt that have a
metric
> head and shank to fit the Capri mounting holes and a standard thread on the
> bolt to fit the Healey lugs (I don't know who figures this stuff out or how
> they do it, but I'm glad they post on the internet).  So far, the swap
seems
> to be going smoothly, I'll post up when it's all done.  Disclaimer:  Screw
> with your brakes at your own risk!
>
>
>
>
> Rick
>
>
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson@bornet.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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	<6E7F90FB-3ADC-4BFB-8F8E-2B5A2D9E5E0E@bornet.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 15:12:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>, Healey Lista
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks, Magnus.  I was wondering about that.  The joys of modification.  Every
change engenders six more changes downstream.



 
Rick


"Madman in a death
machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Magnus Karlsson
<magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Tuesday, October 30, 2012 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
Do not forget to fit a bigger master cylinder. Without it your pedal will
bottom out before you have full brake pressure. Can be very dangerous. I do
not remember exactly but I believe that the next bigger size will be
adequate.
Magnus Karlsson
www.concourshealeys.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 18:02:50 2012
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Sensitivity: Normal
To: "HealeyRick" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>,"Magnus Karlsson"
	<magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>,"Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: healey.nut@gmail.com
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 23:56:36 +0000
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Actually, the master cylinder is dependent on whether the system is boosted or not.  w/o boost use the BT7 brake/clutch master (they're the same) and with booster use the BJ8 brake master cylinder.

Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone 
www.blackberry.com

-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Magnus Karlsson<magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>; Healey Lista<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade

Thanks, Magnus.  I was wondering about that.  The joys of modification.  Every
change engenders six more changes downstream.



 
Rick


"Madman in a death
machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Magnus Karlsson
<magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Tuesday, October 30, 2012 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
Do not forget to fit a bigger master cylinder. Without it your pedal will
bottom out before you have full brake pressure. Can be very dangerous. I do
not remember exactly but I believe that the next bigger size will be
adequate.
Magnus Karlsson
www.concourshealeys.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 19:08:09 2012
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	<1331249804-1351641395-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-253316060-@b25.c1.bise3.blackberry>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 17:57:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "healey.nut@gmail.com" <healey.nut@gmail.com>, Magnus Karlsson
	<magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>, Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have no servo and am running the 5/8" BJ7 m/c (same as the BT7)  The BJ8
w/servo is 7/8"
What's your opinion, stay with the 5/8 or go to the 7/8?
Thanks



 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From:
"healey.nut@gmail.com" <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: HealeyRick
<healeyrick@yahoo.com>; Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>; Healey
Lista <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2012 7:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
 
Actually, the master cylinder is
dependent on whether the system is boosted or not.  w/o boost use the BT7
brake/clutch master (they're the same) and with booster use the BJ8 brake
master cylinder.

Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone 
www.blackberry.com
-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Sender:
healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 15:12:50 
To: Magnus
Karlsson<magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>; Healey Lista<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake
Upgrade

Thanks, Magnus.  I was wondering about that.  The joys of
modification.  Every
change engenders six more changes downstream.




Rick
"Madman in a death
machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build: 
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo 
________________________________
From: Magnus
Karlsson
<magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 30, 2012 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake
Upgrade
Do not forget to fit a bigger master cylinder. Without it your pedal
will
bottom out before you have full brake pressure. Can be very dangerous. I
do
not remember exactly but I believe that the next bigger size will be
adequate.
Magnus Karlsson
www.concourshealeys.com
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 09:29:32 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You want to use the 5/8" cylinder then.  The 7/8" cylinder will make the
pedal much too hard, and will feel harder to stop.


On Wed, Oct 31, 2012 at 8:57 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I have no servo and am running the 5/8" BJ7 m/c (same as the BT7)  The BJ8
> w/servo is 7/8"
> What's your opinion, stay with the 5/8 or go to the 7/8?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick
>
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>   ------------------------------
> *From:* "healey.nut@gmail.com" <healey.nut@gmail.com>
> *To:* HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>; Magnus Karlsson <
> magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>; Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 30, 2012 7:56 PM
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
>
> Actually, the master cylinder is dependent on whether the system is
> boosted or not.  w/o boost use the BT7 brake/clutch master (they're the
> same) and with booster use the BJ8 brake master cylinder.
>
> Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone
> www.blackberry.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
> Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 15:12:50
> To: Magnus Karlsson<magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>; Healey Lista<
> healeys@autox.team.net>
> Reply-To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
>
> Thanks, Magnus.  I was wondering about that.  The joys of modification.
> Every
> change engenders six more changes downstream.
>
>
>
>
> Rick
>
>
> "Madman in a death
> machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> ________________________________
> From: Magnus Karlsson
> <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
> To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent:
> Tuesday, October 30, 2012 6:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
> Do not forget to fit a bigger master cylinder. Without it your pedal will
> bottom out before you have full brake pressure. Can be very dangerous. I do
> not remember exactly but I believe that the next bigger size will be
> adequate.
> Magnus Karlsson
> www.concourshealeys.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 19:39:40 -0700
References: <50908146.6020907@gmail.com>
Cc: 'Austin Healey list' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Shop-talk] Need a new multimeter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There are real reasons to have a multimeter (VOM) with a needle
(analog) display.  If you want a needle display, you may have to pay a
lot or look on eBay.  Harbor Freight's $5 digital meters are the most
for the least.  I have a couple lying around.

If it works, it's a Fluke.

-Roland
with a very old Fluke digital meter and an even older Weston needle
meter.

On Tue, 30 Oct 2012 21:39:18 -0400,Scott wrote:

::I suspect my multimeter isn't 100%. The continuity test won't always
::alarm when I touch the probes, the needle doesn't sweep very well, etc.
::,etc. I just put new batteries in it, so I'm thinking it might be the
::meter itself.
::
::So who likes their meter and what kind do you have? I'd like to be using
::this thing tomorrow, so ideally I can get a decent one from Radio Shack,
::Ace, etc., but if I really want a whatever I can only get online, I can
::wait a few days for it to be overnighted. I don't make a living with the
::thing, but I'd like to enjoy using it, as opposed to the one I have now
::which came from Home Depot (or Lowe's) and I always questioned.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 30 23:34:54 2012
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Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 21:46:04 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Austin Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Shop-talk] Need a new multimeter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For the ultimate in auto meters, go with a Fluke 78 or 88. (I refer the 78
myself)
Probably way overkill for the average Healey owner.
Any half way decent digital meter form Harbor Freight/Home Despot/Lowes
will do just fine.
My Fluke has gone missing in action, and I needed a meter to run down some
electrical issues in my son's house.  I went to Lowes and spent maybe $40,
and got an excellent meter.  Works great.


> On Tue, 30 Oct 2012 21:39:18 -0400,Scott wrote:
>
> ::I suspect my multimeter isn't 100%. The continuity test won't always
> ::alarm when I touch the probes, the needle doesn't sweep very well, etc.
> ::,etc. I just put new batteries in it, so I'm thinking it might be the
> ::meter itself.
> ::
> ::So who likes their meter and what kind do you have? I'd like to be using
> ::this thing tomorrow, so ideally I can get a decent one from Radio Shack,
> ::Ace, etc., but if I really want a whatever I can only get online, I can
> ::wait a few days for it to be overnighted. I don't make a living with the
> ::thing, but I'd like to enjoy using it, as opposed to the one I have now
> ::which came from Home Depot (or Lowe's) and I always questioned.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 07:43:34 2012
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 05:51:20 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
	Thunderbird/16.0.2
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
References: <50908146.6020907@gmail.com>
	<fh31981obndju1n8mv15r4qvoitlr68g2v@4ax.com>
	<CACOF-TrG5nJ9sBT3NrO2wesGy+cVKAQypObq6W6Xp1zY9qph+Q@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>,
	Austin Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Shop-talk] Need a new multimeter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On a side note, some automotive diagnostics--checking generator operation, for instance--require the use of 
'old-fashioned' moving coil voltmeters.  As far as I can tell, the cheapos from HF work fine (don't know where you could 
even get a high-quality moving coil VM--eBay, maybe).

Bought a DVM from Radio Shack when I was in school almost 35 years ago.  It cost $80--a princely sum for a poor college 
student--but it helped me learn enough electronics to get my first job after graduation.  Still have it, and it still 
works (a good Fluke, at the time, would have been a couple hundred $ or more).

Bob



On 10/30/2012 9:46 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
> For the ultimate in auto meters, go with a Fluke 78 or 88. (I refer the 78
> myself)
> Probably way overkill for the average Healey owner.
> Any half way decent digital meter form Harbor Freight/Home Despot/Lowes
> will do just fine.
> My Fluke has gone missing in action, and I needed a meter to run down some
> electrical issues in my son's house.  I went to Lowes and spent maybe $40,
> and got an excellent meter.  Works great.
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 09:14:38 2012
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To: rwil@sbcglobal.net
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 07:22:32 -0700
From: rd_parker@juno.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net, scott.hall.personal@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Shop-talk] Need a new multimeter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My advice is do not buy cheap instruments. You will get what you paid
for.
Bob in Bellflower, Ca. 
On Tue, 30 Oct 2012 19:39:40 -0700 Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
writes:
> There are real reasons to have a multimeter (VOM) with a needle
> (analog) display.  If you want a needle display, you may have to pay 
> a
> lot or look on eBay.  Harbor Freight's $5 digital meters are the 
> most
> for the least.  I have a couple lying around.
> 
> If it works, it's a Fluke.
> 
> -Roland
> with a very old Fluke digital meter and an even older Weston needle
> meter.
> 
> On Tue, 30 Oct 2012 21:39:18 -0400,Scott wrote:
> 
> ::I suspect my multimeter isn't 100%. The continuity test won't 
> always
> ::alarm when I touch the probes, the needle doesn't sweep very well, 
> etc.
> ::,etc. I just put new batteries in it, so I'm thinking it might be 
> the
> ::meter itself.
> ::
> ::So who likes their meter and what kind do you have? I'd like to be 
> using
> ::this thing tomorrow, so ideally I can get a decent one from Radio 
> Shack,
> ::Ace, etc., but if I really want a whatever I can only get online, 
> I can
> ::wait a few days for it to be overnighted. I don't make a living 
> with the
> ::thing, but I'd like to enjoy using it, as opposed to the one I 
> have now
> ::which came from Home Depot (or Lowe's) and I always questioned.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker@juno.com
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 15:26:42 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
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To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
References: <50908146.6020907@gmail.com>
	<fh31981obndju1n8mv15r4qvoitlr68g2v@4ax.com>
	<CACOF-TrG5nJ9sBT3NrO2wesGy+cVKAQypObq6W6Xp1zY9qph+Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<50911EC8.1010702@comcast.net>
Cc: Austin Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Shop-talk] Need a new multimeter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The hobby analogue moving coil automotive testers that were sold in 
abundance in the 1980's will be perfectly all right. Resistance, 
Voltage, Amperage, dwell angle etc. all being catered for. There are 
probably quite a few left in the stores (I came across a Hella set in a 
car parts store, it was exactly the same as the one  I tested way back 
in 1984), other makes are Sun, Equus, Gunsons to name just a few. 
Probably dirt cheap on the internet e.g. Ebay.com. These meters are 
mostly easy to read as the needle is well damped.
Most of the time the digital instruments are good but awkward to read or 
work with and often lack in damping.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 31-10-2012 13:51, Bob Spidell schreef:
> On a side note, some automotive diagnostics--checking generator 
> operation, for instance--require the use of 'old-fashioned' moving 
> coil voltmeters.  As far as I can tell, the cheapos from HF work fine 
> (don't know where you could even get a high-quality moving coil 
> VM--eBay, maybe).
>
> Bought a DVM from Radio Shack when I was in school almost 35 years 
> ago.  It cost $80--a princely sum for a poor college student--but it 
> helped me learn enough electronics to get my first job after 
> graduation.  Still have it, and it still works (a good Fluke, at the 
> time, would have been a couple hundred $ or more).
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 10/30/2012 9:46 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
>> For the ultimate in auto meters, go with a Fluke 78 or 88. (I refer 
>> the 78
>> myself)
>> Probably way overkill for the average Healey owner.
>> Any half way decent digital meter form Harbor Freight/Home Despot/Lowes
>> will do just fine.
>> My Fluke has gone missing in action, and I needed a meter to run down 
>> some
>> electrical issues in my son's house.  I went to Lowes and spent maybe 
>> $40,
>> and got an excellent meter.  Works great.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 14:33:39 2012
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 14:42:46 -0500
From: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Shop-talk] Need a new multimeter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just be aware that the low cost multimeters usually only are good up to 10
amps. Generators and alternators put out more.

Jack
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 15:33:39 2012
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 21:46:01 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
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To: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack@gmail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-f8ZphdQ1FMXuaqHLCbuF14FeVVBuaHccfkY3n6OEph4Q@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Shop-talk] Need a new multimeter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Most multimeters cannot deal with larger currents. The way to deal with 
that is to use a shunt, which is sometimes provided internally, and use 
the correct scale or calculate the current.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 31-10-2012 20:42, Jack Feldman schreef:
> Just be aware that the low cost multimeters usually only are good up to 10
> amps. Generators and alternators put out more.
>
> Jack
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 15:38:55 2012
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 16:58:16 -0400
From: Charley Braum <cbaustin@verizon.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121010
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To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Maybe Healey, definitely Lucas
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

     Can anyone ID the following numbers and advise a source for rebuild 
parts?

     I'm asking for an acquaintance and don't have any more information 
than the numbers.

     Thanks,

                     starter -        2M100
                     alternator -   23662A


                                                              Charley Braum
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 17:36:41 2012
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 15:47:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry to report that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment that has saved countless lives passed this morning at age 95.

Speed On Dear John

Best
JK
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 17:37:46 2012
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From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 00:03:16 +0100
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
	milter-greylist-4.0 (smtpout2.bornet.net [148.160.16.68]); Thu, 01 Nov
	2012 00:03:20 +0100 (CET)
Cc: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You can not use the 5/8" as the pedal will bottom out. There are one or two
sizes between the 5/8" and 7/8". Unfortunately I do not remember which one to
use but as said before I believe the next one up is ok. You do not have to go
as high as the 7/8" though, as it will, like someone said, result in a very
hard pedal.

Magnus Karlsson
www.concourshealeys.com

31 okt 2012 kl. 01:57 skrev HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>:

> I have no servo and am running the 5/8" BJ7 m/c (same as the BT7)  The BJ8
w/servo is 7/8"
> What's your opinion, stay with the 5/8 or go to the 7/8?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick
>
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> From: "healey.nut@gmail.com" <healey.nut@gmail.com>
> To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>; Magnus Karlsson
<magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>; Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2012 7:56 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
>
> Actually, the master cylinder is dependent on whether the system is boosted
or not.  w/o boost use the BT7 brake/clutch master (they're the same) and with
booster use the BJ8 brake master cylinder.
>
> Sent from my BlackBerryB. smartphone
> www.blackberry.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
> Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 15:12:50
> To: Magnus Karlsson<magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>; Healey
Lista<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Reply-To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
>
> Thanks, Magnus.  I was wondering about that.  The joys of modification.
Every
> change engenders six more changes downstream.
>
>
>
>
> Rick
>
>
> "Madman in a death
> machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> ________________________________
> From: Magnus Karlsson
> <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
> To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent:
> Tuesday, October 30, 2012 6:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
> Do not forget to fit a bigger master cylinder. Without it your pedal will
> bottom out before you have full brake pressure. Can be very dangerous. I do
> not remember exactly but I believe that the next bigger size will be
> adequate.
> Magnus Karlsson
> www.concourshealeys.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 16:15:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: "sdesalvo@frontiernet.net" <sdesalvo@frontiernet.net>
To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] clutch alignment tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I need a clutch alignment tool for my '55 BN1. Any idea where I might find one?
Thanks in advance,
Sam
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 18:10:07 2012
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To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Webers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Millions of European and British older cars are fitted with Webers as 
standard and nobody complains!!!!!!
Why?  Select and fit the right Weber for the job.  Some mild engine 
upgrades on small bore motors in UK even look for production Weber carbs 
to fit to their engine.  So you grind the holy daylight out of the cam, 
take a 100 thou off the head, slash the weight of the flywheel and what, 
it wont idle?  Me thinks this is not the Webers fault. Oh, and you want 
to redline it and race everone in the street and surprise, poor fuel 
consumption!

My Webers start every time. The sound is glorious and everone wants to 
talk to me. What more could a bloke want? I actually think it a great 
success the amount of fuel I can pass through my Webers because it gives 
me the result I wanted --- fun, fun, fun.

BUT, they have to be jetted and set up correctly and that almost means 
talk to Peter Molloy or do dyno time WITH someone who has the knowledge 
and selection of bits to fill all those ports and orifices.

Camshafts, read Colin Campbell's book, 'The Sports Car Engine'.  He 
lists 17 different grinds with a comment on their effect. He lists the 
standard and usually aftermarket  grinders from the US.
Then get the Weber book by ( cant remember at the moment, but it has a  
small green  cover) and this has some specs for Healeys including the 
float levels.  Dont just see the bloke down the road who had one on his 
Trabant that he got from his mate cheap.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 18:39:41 2012
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From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Jackson Krall'" <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1351723646.91130.BPMail_high_carrier@web130201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 10:45:01 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac23wLYUBMMwcV5dQM+HD945DP+AVgAAKMyg
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day John

That is sad news indeed.

Caroline and I had the pleasure of meeting John Fitch in 2008 and had dinner
with him at Carmel, CA. A most unassuming man, who was quite happy to talk
and share a laugh about his experiences.

Not only a loss to US Motorsport, but also the world.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jackson Krall
Sent: Thursday, 1 November 2012 9:47 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed

Sorry to report that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment
that has saved countless lives passed this morning at age 95.

Speed On Dear John

Best
JK
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 18:40:44 2012
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From: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 18:55:33 -0500
To: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sad news, but he certainly lived a full life

Patton - Plano

On Oct 31, 2012, at 5:47 PM, Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Sorry to report that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment
that has saved countless lives passed this morning at age 95.
>
> Speed On Dear John
>
> Best
> JK
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/57healey@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 19:11:09 2012
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 18:25:45 -0600
From: "E.A. Driver" <edriver@sasktel.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
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To: Joe and Lenore Armour <sebring@hotkey.net.au>
References: <5091B17E.2010402@hotkey.net.au>
	a=G2Hrq8H__dgA:10 a=YxfxW3ofkq8A:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10
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Cc: Austin Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Joe
You are bang on regarding Colin Campbell's book; and his another two 
"The Sports Car Engine: its tuning and modification" and
"New directions in suspension design: making fast cars faster" are 
equally good reads and references.
Cheers
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Historian, AHCUSA



On 31/10/2012 5:17 PM, Joe and Lenore Armour wrote:
> Millions of European and British older cars are fitted with Webers as 
> standard and nobody complains!!!!!!
> Why?  Select and fit the right Weber for the job.  Some mild engine 
> upgrades on small bore motors in UK even look for production Weber 
> carbs to fit to their engine.  So you grind the holy daylight out of 
> the cam, take a 100 thou off the head, slash the weight of the 
> flywheel and what, it wont idle?  Me thinks this is not the Webers 
> fault. Oh, and you want to redline it and race everone in the street 
> and surprise, poor fuel consumption!
>
> My Webers start every time. The sound is glorious and everone wants to 
> talk to me. What more could a bloke want? I actually think it a great 
> success the amount of fuel I can pass through my Webers because it 
> gives me the result I wanted --- fun, fun, fun.
>
> BUT, they have to be jetted and set up correctly and that almost means 
> talk to Peter Molloy or do dyno time WITH someone who has the 
> knowledge and selection of bits to fill all those ports and orifices.
>
> Camshafts, read Colin Campbell's book, 'The Sports Car Engine'. He 
> lists 17 different grinds with a comment on their effect. He lists the 
> standard and usually aftermarket  grinders from the US.
> Then get the Weber book by ( cant remember at the moment, but it has 
> a  small green  cover) and this has some specs for Healeys including 
> the float levels.  Dont just see the bloke down the road who had one 
> on his Trabant that he got from his mate cheap.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 19:12:02 2012
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 17:37:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys]  John Fitch has passed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And you left out P51 pilot, Corvette team manager, creator of the Fitch
Phoenix and a true gentleman.  Lime Rock won't seem without seeing John and
his Phoenix at the track.


 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My
Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Jackson Krall
<jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, October
31, 2012 6:47 PM
Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
 
Sorry to report
that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment that has saved
countless lives passed this morning at age 95.

Speed On Dear John

Best
JK
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 19:40:23 2012
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 20:42:35 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
To: "sdesalvo@frontiernet.net" <sdesalvo@frontiernet.net>,  healey list
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch alignment tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sam,

http://www.clutchtools.com  

model RL10 will work for the BN1 clutch.  #23 for the other big Healeys.

Cheers,
Bob Haskell

-----Original Message-----
>From: "sdesalvo@frontiernet.net" <sdesalvo@frontiernet.net>
>Sent: Oct 31, 2012 7:15 PM
>To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Healeys] clutch alignment tool
>
>I need a clutch alignment tool for my '55 BN1. Any idea where I might find one?
>Thanks in advance,
>Sam
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 20:09:21 2012
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 18:21:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Cc: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Girling lists bores of 0.62 inch (the one I have); 0.70 inch and 0.75 inch
before getting to the 7/8 inch on the BJ8.  I suppose I could give the .70
inch a try 

 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From: Magnus
Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2012
7:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
 

You can not use the 5/8"
as the pedal will bottom out. There are one or two sizes between the 5/8" and
7/8". Unfortunately I do not remember which one to use but as said before I
believe the next one up is ok. You do not have to go as high as the 7/8"
though, as it will, like someone said, result in a very hard pedal.

Magnus
Karlsson
www.concourshealeys.com

31 okt 2012 kl. 01:57 skrev HealeyRick
<healeyrick@yahoo.com>:


I have no servo and am running the 5/8" BJ7 m/c
(same as the BT7)  The BJ8 w/servo is 7/8"
>What's your opinion, stay with
the 5/8 or go to the 7/8?
>
>Thanks
>
> 
>Rick
>
>
>"
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 20:15:25 2012
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 21:24:17 -0400
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The invention of the Jersey Barrier is sometimes erroneously attributed to
Fitch but in fact he did develop the Fitch Barrier or Yellow Barrel
commonly seen on highways--go here for more info:
http://www.racesafety.com/fitchbarr.html

Best--Michael Oritt


On Wed, Oct 31, 2012 at 8:37 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> And you left out P51 pilot, Corvette team manager, creator of the Fitch
> Phoenix and a true gentleman.  Lime Rock won't seem without seeing John and
> his Phoenix at the track.
>
>
>
> Rick
>
>
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow My
> Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> ________________________________
>  From: Jackson Krall
> <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, October
> 31, 2012 6:47 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
>
> Sorry to report
> that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment that has saved
> countless lives passed this morning at age 95.
>
> Speed On Dear John
>
> Best
> JK
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 20:16:14 2012
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, "'Jackson
	Krall'" <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
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	<D155A4E45C5443A58AE7A0EEC51F3C02@PatrickQuinnPC>
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 20:35:01 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Pretty good bio here, http://www.racesafety.com/fitchbio.html  WWII fighter 
pilot, driver for Mercedes in their glory days, safety engineer quite a 
story, rest (or race?) in peace Mr. Fitch

Greg Lemon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 20:57:46 2012
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	Thu, 1 Nov 2012 12:52:31 +1100
From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Jackson Krall'" <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1351723646.91130.BPMail_high_carrier@web130201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<D155A4E45C5443A58AE7A0EEC51F3C02@PatrickQuinnPC>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 12:52:30 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac23wLYUBMMwcV5dQM+HD945DP+AVgAAKMygAAQwDUA=
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

For those of us who are into history trivia, there are two connections
between John Fitch and the Donald Healey Motor Company.

In May 1953 John co-drove a Nash-Healey with Ray Willday (DHMC mechanic) in
the Mille Miglia. 

Then in 1955 he was the co-driver with Pierre Levegh of the Mercedes Benz
that used the Macklin entered 100S (NOJ 393) to launch itself into the
spectator mound.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Thursday, 1 November 2012 10:45 AM
To: 'Jackson Krall'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed

G'day John

That is sad news indeed.

Caroline and I had the pleasure of meeting John Fitch in 2008 and had dinner
with him at Carmel, CA. A most unassuming man, who was quite happy to talk
and share a laugh about his experiences.

Not only a loss to US Motorsport, but also the world.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jackson Krall
Sent: Thursday, 1 November 2012 9:47 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed

Sorry to report that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment
that has saved countless lives passed this morning at age 95.

Speed On Dear John

Best
JK
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 21:26:00 2012
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From: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 13:21:21 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Related -Mosquito Flys Again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Listers

Sorry to bother you but I unfortunately deleted the email from one of the list
members ( New Zealand I think) who provided a connection to the You Tube video
of the Mosquito Bomber that was recently restored in NZ.

If any one has the connection would appreciate the contact details

Regards

Graeme
BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 23:25:22 2012
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From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 15:43:55 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac2364AYw8BkLUA2TQOqsiD+ApFa1g==
Subject: [Healeys] Legs Eleven Photo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

Sorry if this seems to be a silly request, but it links in with something I
am putting together for our AH club magazine.

 

I am after a photo of someone who is head down - tail up in the cockpit of
their Austin-Healey. Someone who is trying to find something elusive under
the dash of their car. It really doesn't matter what model, but the article
is about a BJ8.

 

Don't need to see their face, just their legs poking up over the seat.

 

Can anyone help please and send me a photo?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 31 23:28:15 2012
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From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 05:54:49 +0100
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
	milter-greylist-4.0 (smtpout2.bornet.net [148.160.16.68]); Thu, 01 Nov
	2012 05:54:55 +0100 (CET)
Cc: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Unfortunately I didn't take notes when I last did this conversion but I
believe that the 0.70 will do the job although I can not guarantee this 100
percent.

Magnus Karlsson

www.concourshealeys.com

1 nov 2012 kl. 02:21 skrev HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>:

>
>
> Girling lists bores of 0.62 inch (the one I have); 0.70 inch and 0.75 inch
before getting to the 7/8 inch on the BJ8.  I suppose I could give the .70
inch a try
>
> Rick
>
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
> To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
> Cc: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2012 7:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Disc Brake Upgrade
>
> You can not use the 5/8" as the pedal will bottom out. There are one or two
sizes between the 5/8" and 7/8". Unfortunately I do not remember which one to
use but as said before I believe the next one up is ok. You do not have to go
as high as the 7/8" though, as it will, like someone said, result in a very
hard pedal.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> www.concourshealeys.com
>
> 31 okt 2012 kl. 01:57 skrev HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>:
>
>> I have no servo and am running the 5/8" BJ7 m/c (same as the BT7)  The BJ8
w/servo is 7/8"
>> What's your opinion, stay with the 5/8 or go to the 7/8?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> "
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	Wed, 31 Oct 2012 21:57:49 PDT
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Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 21:57:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: 57healey@gmail.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Full life indeed, and of the hip things the man did and achieved, there was a post WWII period when he used to commute to NYC from his home in Brewster NY in a seaplane. That is VERY cool!
Best
JK

------------------------------
On Wed, Oct 31, 2012 7:55 PM EDT Patton Dickson wrote:

>Sad news, but he certainly lived a full life
>
>Patton - Plano
>
>On Oct 31, 2012, at 5:47 PM, Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Sorry to report that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment that has saved countless lives passed this morning at age 95.
>> 
>> Speed On Dear John
>> 
>> Best
>> JK
>> _______________________________________________
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