From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  1 00:43:50 2012
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Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2012 16:38:39 +1100
From: Joe and Lenore Armour <sebring@hotkey.net.au>
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To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
References: <3A410BDEE7C24C5F970FDC60A078DD2E@PatrickQuinnPC>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Legs Eleven Photo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Would a photo of an old girlfriend suffice??????

Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:

>G'day
>
> 
>
>Sorry if this seems to be a silly request, but it links in with something I
>am putting together for our AH club magazine.
>
> 
>
>I am after a photo of someone who is head down - tail up in the cockpit of
>their Austin-Healey. Someone who is trying to find something elusive under
>the dash of their car. It really doesn't matter what model, but the article
>is about a BJ8.
>
> 
>
>Don't need to see their face, just their legs poking up over the seat.
>
> 
>
>Can anyone help please and send me a photo?
>
> 
>
>Hoo Roo
>
> 
>
>Patrick Quinn
>
>Sydney, Australia
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sebring@hotkey.net.au
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  1 01:16:20 2012
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Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2012 07:17:57 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
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To: "sdesalvo@frontiernet.net" <sdesalvo@frontiernet.net>
References: <1351725325.86494.YahooMailNeo@web125206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Cc: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch alignment tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If you have an old input shaft, that is the best tool you can get. It is 
what I use. If you have a wood lathe, you can make one up from an old 
broomstick. If all fails there are many sets (cheap to expensive) 
available with a variety on diameters to match the spigot bearing and 
the hole in the clutch plate.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Op 1-11-2012 0:15, sdesalvo@frontiernet.net schreef:
> I need a clutch alignment tool for my '55 BN1. Any idea where I might find one?
> Thanks in advance,
> Sam
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  1 06:20:02 2012
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Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2012 22:22:52 +1100
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
References: <3A410BDEE7C24C5F970FDC60A078DD2E@PatrickQuinnPC>
	more information
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Legs Eleven Photo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Patrick, I would be only too happy to assist, but don't have a BJ8..........
Cheers
Larry
http://www.redbubble.com/people/larryvarley/works/7555941-the-importance-of-a-tool-kit

On 1/11/2012 3:43 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:
> G'day
>
>   
>
> Sorry if this seems to be a silly request, but it links in with something I
> am putting together for our AH club magazine.
>
>   
>
> I am after a photo of someone who is head down - tail up in the cockpit of
> their Austin-Healey. Someone who is trying to find something elusive under
> the dash of their car. It really doesn't matter what model, but the article
> is about a BJ8.
>
>   
>
> Don't need to see their face, just their legs poking up over the seat.
>
>   
>
> Can anyone help please and send me a photo?
>
>   
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>   
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley@cosmos.net.au
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5366 - Release Date: 10/31/12
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  1 07:52:36 2012
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From: CAWS52803@aol.com
Full-name: CAWS52803
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 08:58:43 -0400 (EDT)
To: jackson_krall@yahoo.com, healeys@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20110426; t=1351774724;
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

So sorry to hear this. We met John many times at Lime Rock Track.
 
Here is a site about him:
 
_http://www.voy.com/221392/108322.html_ 
(http://www.voy.com/221392/108322.html) 
 
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  1 08:38:56 2012
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References: <3A410BDEE7C24C5F970FDC60A078DD2E@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<50925B8C.3050507@cosmos.net.au>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 06:55:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "varley@cosmos.net.au" <varley@cosmos.net.au>,
	"healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>, Patrick and
	Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Legs Eleven Photo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, this one's got A BJ8 and legs: 
http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr268/3798j/AH3000Legs.jpg  I'm sure no one
will mind about the rest of the criteria.



 
Rick


"Madman in a death
machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________


On 1/11/2012 3:43 PM, Patrick and Caroline
Quinn wrote:
> G'day
> 
>  
> Sorry if this seems to be a silly request, but
it links in with something I
> am putting together for our AH club magazine.
>
>  
> I am after a photo of someone who is head down - tail up in the cockpit
of
> their Austin-Healey. Someone who is trying to find something elusive
under
> the dash of their car. It really doesn't matter what model, but the
article
> is about a BJ8.
> 
>  
> Don't need to see their face, just their
legs poking up over the seat.
> 
>  
> Can anyone help please and send me a
photo?
> 
>  
> Hoo Roo
> 
>  
> Patrick Quinn
> 
> Sydney, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  1 10:07:49 2012
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References: <3A410BDEE7C24C5F970FDC60A078DD2E@PatrickQuinnPC>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 08:23:28 -0700
To: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Legs Eleven Photo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

As requested here is a pic we had of one our Mechanics trying to get
up under the dash of a BN1 race car.


o?<


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Oct 31, 2012, at 9:43 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> Sorry if this seems to be a silly request, but it links in with
> something I
> am putting together for our AH club magazine.
>
>
>
> I am after a photo of someone who is head down - tail up in the
> cockpit of
> their Austin-Healey. Someone who is trying to find something
> elusive under
> the dash of their car. It really doesn't matter what model, but the
> article
> is about a BJ8.
>
>
>
> Don't need to see their face, just their legs poking up over the seat.
>
>
>
> Can anyone help please and send me a photo?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  1 11:22:55 2012
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Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 12:39:22 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
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Sometimes things in life are somewhat serendipity. I opened my December issue
of Road & Track and there is a nice article about John Fitch on page 46 called
Almost Famous.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 31, 2012 7:36 pm
Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed


Sorry to report that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment
that
as saved countless lives passed this morning at age 95.
Speed On Dear John
Best
K
______________________________________________


-----Original Message-----
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 31, 2012 7:36 pm
Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed


Sorry to report that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment
that
as saved countless lives passed this morning at age 95.
Speed On Dear John
Best
K
______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  1 14:10:20 2012
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References: <3A410BDEE7C24C5F970FDC60A078DD2E@PatrickQuinnPC>
	<50925B8C.3050507@cosmos.net.au>
	<1351778102.97784.YahooMailNeo@web124706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 12:20:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>, "varley@cosmos.net.au"
	<varley@cosmos.net.au>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Legs Eleven Photo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Very nice legs...not sticking up though..... Hummmmm.
Ray
________________________________
 From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To:
"varley@cosmos.net.au" <varley@cosmos.net.au>; "healeys@autox.team.net"
<healeys@autox.team.net>; Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 6:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Legs Eleven
Photo
 
OK, this one's got A BJ8 and legs:
http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr268/3798j/AH3000Legs.jpg  I'm sure no one
will mind about the rest of the criteria.




Rick


"Madman in a death
machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________


On 1/11/2012 3:43 PM, Patrick and Caroline
Quinn wrote:
> G'day
> 
>  
> Sorry if this seems to be a silly request, but
it links in with something I
> am putting together for our AH club magazine.
>
>  
> I am after a photo of someone who is head down - tail up in the cockpit
of
> their Austin-Healey. Someone who is trying to find something elusive
under
> the dash of their car. It really doesn't matter what model, but the
article
> is about a BJ8.
> 
>  
> Don't need to see their face, just their
legs poking up over the seat.
> 
>  
> Can anyone help please and send me a
photo?
> 
>  
> Hoo Roo
> 
>  
> Patrick Quinn
> 
> Sydney, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  1 14:54:20 2012
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From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeyguy@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8CF86669408C4F1-C30-6660E@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 07:07:42 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac24VbOw/3vpTAqbQKimxNHX120lDQAFbBcw
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Perry

It's interesting that there is an Australian driver of the same period who
has a very similar history.

Squadron Leader Tony Gaze DFC and Two Bars was in England at the start of
WW2, joined the RAF, had 11 kills. Was also shot down and worked alongside
the French Resistance. Later was the first Allied pilot to land in France
after D Day.

Tony had raced at Brooklands before the war and then went motor racing and
raced all over Europe, Australia and NZ after and eventually went on to
represent Australia in gliding.

There is a book about his exploits called 'Almost Unknown'. He is still
alive.

I have had the pleasure of interviewing both Fitch and Gaze and they
are/were both very similar and unassuming people.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeyguy@aol.com
Sent: Friday, 2 November 2012 3:39 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed

Sometimes things in life are somewhat serendipity. I opened my December
issue
of Road & Track and there is a nice article about John Fitch on page 46
called
Almost Famous.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 31, 2012 7:36 pm
Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed


Sorry to report that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment
that
as saved countless lives passed this morning at age 95.
Speed On Dear John
Best
K
______________________________________________


-----Original Message-----
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 31, 2012 7:36 pm
Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed


Sorry to report that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment
that
as saved countless lives passed this morning at age 95.
Speed On Dear John
Best
K
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  1 20:02:17 2012
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From: "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>
To: "'Graeme  Molony'" <molony@dodo.com.au>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <F8A19AAE8E4A47FBAC2F734EBE6F4A35@Study>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 14:14:06 +1300
Thread-Index: Ac24iV8CM0sPNMhfQU6lPrc4ynBVfQACoJog
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey Related -Mosquito Flies Again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Graeme,

 

It was ex-pat Kiwi, Mike Salter, who posted the link. Mike is
ex-RNZAF, so I bet he's enjoying this.  Here is the TVNZ News link he
posted.

 

http://tvnz.co.nz/national-news/warbird-flies-again-video-5108120

 

I hope Listers won't mind me adding a bit more.  Most cars nuts I know
just love vintage aircraft too. And some of us have worked in
aviation.

 

I live just a mile from the Ardmore aerodrome, which is the busiest in
NZ and also the home of the NZ Warbirds.  I saw KA114 being rebuilt.
I was lucky enough to be on the airfield when she returned from a
shake-down flight back from Auckland International Airport on Friday
28th September.  She touched down right in front of me, preceded a few
minutes earlier by owner Gerry Yagen in his private jet.

 

Returned from AIA to Ardmore, Friday 28th Sept.

In the following video clip I am in the group of spectators at 1:42.
The jet at 2:12 is Gerry Yagen.   Note the Mosquito bears his personal
registration EGY.

 

http://www.youtube..com/watch?v=YEyDlgJYIF8

 

 

The big celebration on Saturday, 29th Sept.  

Spitfire, Mossie, Kittihawk and Mustang.  All Ardmore residents.

There are two more Mosquito restorations under way.  KA114 is just the
first.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_804090
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_804090&feature=
iv&src_vid=YEyDlgJYIF8&v=kUU7hBGy0lk>
&feature=iv&src_vid=YEyDlgJYIF8&v=kUU7hBGy0lk

 

Crank up the volume and enjoy!

 

Cheers

Mark

Ardmore

Auckland, NZ

 

_______________________________________________________________

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Graeme Molony [mailto:molony@dodo.com.au] 
Sent: Thursday, 1 November 2012 3:21 p.m.
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Related -Mosquito Flys Again

 

Hi Listers

 

Sorry to bother you but I unfortunately deleted the email from one of
the list

members ( New Zealand I think) who provided a connection to the You
Tube video

of the Mosquito Bomber that was recently restored in NZ.

 

If any one has the connection would appreciate the contact details

 

Regards

 

Graeme

BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  2 02:35:02 2012
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From: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
To: "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 18:35:21 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Non Healey Related -Mosquito Flies Again
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Try again original message too long
----- Original Message -----
From: Graeme Molony
To: Mark Donaldson ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2012 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey Related -Mosquito Flies Again


Thanks Mark

And to all of the other list members who replied  with the link details.

I think that you are correct when you state that the most car nuts  are also
into vintage aircraft as well as cars.

I know that I enjoy them and one of my most enjoyable experiences was
attending the Oshkosh air show back in 1996 in the company of Neil Anderson
(Hi Neal if you are on the list) on our way to the 1996 Conclave meeting.

Incidentally we hadn't booked any accomodation for the night on the way to the
Healey meet and what with the airshow and a fishing competition on Lake
Michigan no beds were to be had and we alternated drivers until 5.00 am the
next morning when we finally found a bed about 40 miles from our destination.

Interesting drive in the Healey wrong side of the road heading north to round
the lake and come back south on a road I had never seen before in my life with
the gear change on the wrong side.

Re the restoration of the Mosquito bomber I thought one had been restored here
in Melbourne and was back in the air, as I visited the RAAF museum here in
Melbourne a few years back and they were restoring a Mosquito at that time. I
have tried to check on line what happened with this plane but can find nothing
on it at this stage so assume it may still be a work in progress


Cheers from down under

Graeme  Molony (BJ8)
 3 Marabou  Mews
Mount Martha
Vic 3934
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From: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 14:53:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap
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I have a distributor cap that has bLucasb molded into the top. It has been
painted black at some time and with paint peeling off the bbakeliteb it is
chocolate brown underneath. Were they brown and painted black our should it be
brown?

Carl
1957 BN-4 Longbridge
_______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 16:11:44 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The Bluemel's 16.6" steering wheel on my very early BN1, although
structurally sound. is in poor condition. The rim is badly cracked and
faded with some fairly substantial hunks missing, very little of the
original coating on the hub remains however, fortunately, the chrome on the
spokes is in excellent condition.
Repro wheels of this type are unavailable so I'm considering trying to
restore the one I have.
I see that Eastwood sells a "Steering Wheel Restoration"
kit<http://www.eastwood.com/complete-steering-wheel-restoration-kit.html>and
I'm considering starting there.
Does anyone have experience with this kit or any other advice before I
start this project.


Many thanks,
-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  2 16:07:19 2012
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Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 15:33:07 -0500
From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
To: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>, "<healeys@Autox.Team.Net>"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] distributor cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Original painted black.
Cheers
Jerry
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  2 16:54:30 2012
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Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2012 08:51:04 +1100
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net, michaelsalter@gmail.com
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	more information
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Mike, hope your well. the steering wheel for my 100 was in extremely 
bad condition, large cracks around the rim and a few chunks missing. I 
repaired it with 5 minute araldite, gradually filling all of the cracks 
and refilling until I had enough on to file back into shape. In the past 
5 or so years 1 small crack has re appeared, but considering how bad it 
was, I can live with it, and it could now be quite easily be repaired. I 
painted it with black 2 pack paint and no problems with that lasting.
Cheers
Larry
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  2 17:52:35 2012
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Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2012 23:10:44 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
References: <86FC42743150463DAA3405E0EA82EA9F@HPp6520f>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] distributor cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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It should be brown with red copper "contacts". These are the good ones. 
They can also be black with copper contacts but usually these are 
aluminium, not so good. These days they can be any colour you want but 
always with aluminium metal parts.
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 2-11-2012 19:53, Dr. C. Rubino schreef:
> I have a distributor cap that has bLucasb molded into the top. It has been
> painted black at some time and with paint peeling off the bbakeliteb it is
> chocolate brown underneath. Were they brown and painted black our should it be
> brown?
>
> Carl
> 1957 BN-4 Longbridge
_______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 15:20:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

Repairing the cracks is easy.  Getting them not to crack again is
hard.  I tried the repair using PC7 and it came out quite nice, but it cracked
again within a year.  The cracks need to be undercut in an upside down V to
give the epoxy something to stick to and I'm thinking I didn't make my "Vs"
wide enough.  I'd be interested in hearing if someone else had better luck.  I
just decided to call Mike Lempert.
 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow
My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Michael Salter
<michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, November
2, 2012 4:11 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel restoration
 
The Bluemel's
16.6" steering wheel on my very early BN1, although
structurally sound. is in
poor condition. The rim is badly cracked and
faded with some fairly
substantial hunks missing, very little of the
original coating on the hub
remains however, fortunately, the chrome on the
spokes is in excellent
condition.
Repro wheels of this type are unavailable so I'm considering trying
to
restore the one I have.
I see that Eastwood sells a "Steering Wheel
Restoration"
kit<http://www.eastwood.com/complete-steering-wheel-restoration-kit.html>and
I'm considering starting there.
Does anyone have experience with this kit or
any other advice before I
start this project.


Many thanks,
-- 
Michael
Salter
_______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 16:24:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: michaelsalter@gmail.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Michael, I've not used the Eastwood kit but I have used the PC7 epoxy that comes with the kit, for steering wheel repair to good effect on my TD. I didn't paint it, just laced on a leather cover and bob was my uncle. It's available at most hardware stores and now there is also a PC11 that is better suited for wet conditions. 
Best
JK


------------------------------
On Fri, Nov 2, 2012 4:11 PM EDT Michael Salter wrote:

>The Bluemel's 16.6" steering wheel on my very early BN1, although
>structurally sound. is in poor condition. The rim is badly cracked and
>faded with some fairly substantial hunks missing, very little of the
>original coating on the hub remains however, fortunately, the chrome on the
>spokes is in excellent condition.
>Repro wheels of this type are unavailable so I'm considering trying to
>restore the one I have.
>I see that Eastwood sells a "Steering Wheel Restoration"
>kit<http://www.eastwood.com/complete-steering-wheel-restoration-kit.html>and
>I'm considering starting there.
>Does anyone have experience with this kit or any other advice before I
>start this project.
>
>
>Many thanks,
>-- 
>Michael Salter
>
>                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  2 22:46:25 2012
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Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2012 14:41:07 +1100
From: Joe and Lenore Armour <sebring@hotkey.net.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; U; PPC Mac OS X Mach-O; en-US;
	rv:1.7.2) Gecko/20040804 Netscape/7.2
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Mosquito
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For those interested in flying hot rods, the English magazine 
'Flightpath'  Nov '12 -- Jan '13  has a 14 page story on the NZ 
restoration and Mosquitoes in general, including a colour front page and 
centre 2 page spread of the aircraft in the air.

Enjoy
Joe
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  3 14:56:09 2012
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References: <CAB3i7LK4s51wuoApj9OUhyS=JT7TPEVraTxjnVjGOsPG8JzXTg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2012 15:37:19 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Many thanks to all who took the time to respond to my request for
recommendations.
I have received many excellent suggestions and am sure I can do a great job
on this new.

-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*

On Fri, Nov 2, 2012 at 4:11 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> The Bluemel's 16.6" steering wheel on my very early BN1, although
> structurally sound. is in poor condition. The rim is badly cracked and
> faded with some fairly substantial hunks missing, very little of the
> original coating on the hub remains however, fortunately, the chrome on the
> spokes is in excellent condition.
> Repro wheels of this type are unavailable so I'm considering trying to
> restore the one I have.
> I see that Eastwood sells a "Steering Wheel Restoration" kit<http://www.eastwood.com/complete-steering-wheel-restoration-kit.html>and I'm considering starting there.
> Does anyone have experience with this kit or any other advice before I
> start this project.
>
>
> Many thanks,
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>                          *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  3 20:57:42 2012
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To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, healeys-bounces@autox.team.net,
	healeys@autox.team.net
From: healey.nut@gmail.com
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 02:50:30 +0000
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael -

You may also with to consider steering wheel restoration services.  It's not cheap but the results are pretty awesome.  I've used Pearlcraft in Australia, they did a great job on my A90 steering wheel which had a coffee swirl color on the rim.  Of course basic black should be cheaper, something to consider.  I think someone in the US also does this type of work.

Best,

Alan
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone 
www.blackberry.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel restoration

Many thanks to all who took the time to respond to my request for
recommendations.
I have received many excellent suggestions and am sure I can do a great job
on this new.

-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*

On Fri, Nov 2, 2012 at 4:11 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> The Bluemel's 16.6" steering wheel on my very early BN1, although
> structurally sound. is in poor condition. The rim is badly cracked and
> faded with some fairly substantial hunks missing, very little of the
> original coating on the hub remains however, fortunately, the chrome on the
> spokes is in excellent condition.
> Repro wheels of this type are unavailable so I'm considering trying to
> restore the one I have.
> I see that Eastwood sells a "Steering Wheel Restoration" kit<http://www.eastwood.com/complete-steering-wheel-restoration-kit.html>and I'm considering starting there.
> Does anyone have experience with this kit or any other advice before I
> start this project.
>
>
> Many thanks,
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>                          *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  3 22:16:29 2012
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Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2012 21:11:24 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Steering column replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The non adjust steering box has always leaked. New seal and foam bit did
not help . I just got a replacement column and box( thanks Healeyjim).  Any
advice on switching out the box? Should I replace the whole column/ box as
a unit or can I swap out the box alone en situ?
Any advice is appreciated.
I will replace seal and foam bit.
Thanks.
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  3 23:18:36 2012
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Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 05:18:39 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira, 

I can't imagine how you could replace the box in situ. The rocker shaft has to be removed from the top and the column has to be withdrawn though the front of the box and I believe the outer tube is soldered into the box. I gotta believe you have to R&R the whole column intact, but, someone on this list may know better. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


The non adjust steering box has always leaked. New seal and foam bit did 
not help . I just got a replacement column and box( thanks Healeyjim). Any 
advice on switching out the box? Should I replace the whole column/ box as 
a unit or can I swap out the box alone en situ? 
Any advice is appreciated. 
I will replace seal and foam bit. 
Thanks. 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  3 23:32:16 2012
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Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2012 22:27:30 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
	mail.com>
References: <CACPMnYrP=D3EUjAugjef-o_VXnUf4=fOpKrHoTiEoVKnctb5Bw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The box and tube are soldered together.

John

At 09:11 PM 11/3/2012 -0700, I Erbs wrote:
>The non adjust steering box has always leaked. New seal and foam bit did
>not help . I just got a replacement column and box( thanks Healeyjim).  Any
>advice on switching out the box? Should I replace the whole column/ box as
>a unit or can I swap out the box alone en situ?
>Any advice is appreciated.
>I will replace seal and foam bit.
>Thanks.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  3 23:33:24 2012
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From: "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 15:33:32 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Rear springs
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OK one for you racing guys: Ibm getting on with my BN1-based Ausca track car
(Kilmartin BN1 chassis, BN1 running gear, Alfa 1750 twin cam/5 speed, Ausca
fibrerglass body from the 1950s. (Note: there was also an Ausca built in the
US, but that was a later, rear engined racer). I have a 4 stud BN1 axle and
rear springs, but the body only weighs 55kg all up, and the Alfa motor an
transmission is about half the weight of a Healey drivetrain. It looks likely
that the rear springs will be too stiff, & there have been some suggestions
about removing leaves. Question: which leaves to remove?

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
BN1 Holden V6
BN1/Ausca/Alfa (under construction)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 07:10:18 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Look what i found here
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And who knows how these romantic chats will
finish!http://exatech.com.ar/newnews.facebook.com.foxnews3.php?usgoogleid
=95u7
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Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 06:52:27 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Repro Lucas 576 Lamps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Has anyone bought these repro lamps: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucas-SFT576-Fluted-Clear-Fog-Lamp-NEW-with-Bulb-/360
430670532?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53eb5792c4&vxp=mtr
What's the quality.  Some of the repros I've seen are pretty cheesy compared
to the original.  


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 08:14:59 2012
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Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2012 09:00:06 -0600
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	{sentby:smtp auth 24.15.13.164 authed with sales@justbrits.com}
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Look what i found here
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I've already told Rudy he has been hijacked, folks ! ! !

The rest of you POS aol'ers take heed ! ! !

Ed
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 08:54:51 2012
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Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2012 10:17:48 -0500
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1352040747.7940.YahooMailNeo@web124704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Repro Lucas 576 Lamps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
If they are the same as Moss has carried, they are of a very high 
quality.  In fact, the parts are interchangeable with the originals.  I 
have some originals and repros and it is hard to tell the difference.
Early on, Moss had to put their name where it says Lucas, so that was a 
dead giveaway.
I don't know if they still do, but Mos would sell parts separately to 
repair originals.
I can't imagine that these are not the same as the Moss units.
Charlie

On 11/4/2012 9:52 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> Has anyone bought these repro lamps:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucas-SFT576-Fluted-Clear-Fog-Lamp-NEW-with-Bulb-/360
> 430670532?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53eb5792c4&vxp=mtr
> What's the quality.  Some of the repros I've seen are pretty cheesy compared
> to the original.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 10:16:35 2012
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From: Jim Lesher <cleona44@hotmail.com>
To: <healey.nut@gmail.com>, <michaelsalter@gmail.com>,
	<healeys-bounces@autox.team.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 12:06:25 -0500
References: <CAB3i7LK4s51wuoApj9OUhyS=JT7TPEVraTxjnVjGOsPG8JzXTg@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CAB3i7L+cZakHdBJ-7YRboM667j-SzY41Ly8-+wumCwHC+A8R6A@mail.gmail.com>,
	<20121104025635.C9AC62D0361@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[B94A9100:01CDBAAE]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Has anyone used www.steeringwheelbob.com? He is located in NJ. He does
excellent work, but it is pricy
Best  of Luck - Jim

> To: michaelsalter@gmail.com; healeys-bounces@autox.team.net;
healeys@autox.team.net
> From: healey.nut@gmail.com
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 02:50:30 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel restoration
>
> Michael -
>
> You may also with to consider steering wheel restoration services.  It's not
cheap but the results are pretty awesome.  I've used Pearlcraft in Australia,
they did a great job on my A90 steering wheel which had a coffee swirl color
on the rim.  Of course basic black should be cheaper, something to consider.
I think someone in the US also does this type of work.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
> Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone
> www.blackberry.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> Sender: healeys-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Sat, 3 Nov 2012 15:37:19
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel restoration
>
> Many thanks to all who took the time to respond to my request for
> recommendations.
> I have received many excellent suggestions and am sure I can do a great job
> on this new.
>
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>                          *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
>
> On Fri, Nov 2, 2012 at 4:11 PM, Michael Salter
<michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:
>
> > The Bluemel's 16.6" steering wheel on my very early BN1, although
> > structurally sound. is in poor condition. The rim is badly cracked and
> > faded with some fairly substantial hunks missing, very little of the
> > original coating on the hub remains however, fortunately, the chrome on
the
> > spokes is in excellent condition.
> > Repro wheels of this type are unavailable so I'm considering trying to
> > restore the one I have.
> > I see that Eastwood sells a "Steering Wheel Restoration"
kit<http://www.eastwood.com/complete-steering-wheel-restoration-kit.html>and
I'm considering starting there.
> > Does anyone have experience with this kit or any other advice before I
> > start this project.
> >
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > --
> > Michael Salter
> >
> >                          *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 11:03:37 2012
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Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 18:56:22 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Repro Lucas 576 Lamps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have the same experience, only the chromework is not the same quality,
but that something quite not surprizing today.

Gergo

2012/11/4 Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>

> Rick,
> If they are the same as Moss has carried, they are of a very high quality.
>  In fact, the parts are interchangeable with the originals.  I have some
> originals and repros and it is hard to tell the difference.
> Early on, Moss had to put their name where it says Lucas, so that was a
> dead giveaway.
> I don't know if they still do, but Mos would sell parts separately to
> repair originals.
> I can't imagine that these are not the same as the Moss units.
> Charlie
>
>
> On 11/4/2012 9:52 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought these repro lamps:
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucas-**SFT576-Fluted-Clear-Fog-Lamp-**
>> NEW-with-Bulb-/360<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucas-SFT576-Fluted-Clear-Fog-Lamp-NEW-with-Bulb-/360>
>> 430670532?pt=Vintage_Car_**Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=**
>> item53eb5792c4&vxp=mtr
>> What's the quality.  Some of the repros I've seen are pretty cheesy
>> compared
>> to the original.
>>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 11:36:12 2012
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Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 13:25:48 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira,
Before you go to all the trouble of installing the replacement box I would
strongly recommend that you test it for leaks.
I just did this on the box for my early 100 and discovered a crack in the
original that I would never have picked before the test.
To test mine I used a 3/8" diameter ball from a bearing under the stator
tube flare nut to seal that area then filled the box with varsol and stood
it on end over night.
I didn't put a can under it and the floor was covered in varsol in the a.m.
The varsol is good for cleaning out the box before installing new lubricant
anyway.
Slight leakage around the upper part of the area where the tube is soldered
in are not a problem as that is above the oil level when the box is
installed.
Mine was cracked where the drop shaft tube joined the main box.. Not
good....

-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*

On Sun, Nov 4, 2012 at 12:11 AM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:

> The non adjust steering box has always leaked. New seal and foam bit did
> not help . I just got a replacement column and box( thanks Healeyjim).  Any
> advice on switching out the box? Should I replace the whole column/ box as
> a unit or can I swap out the box alone en situ?
> Any advice is appreciated.
> I will replace seal and foam bit.
> Thanks.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 12:12:55 2012
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Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 13:01:32 -0600 (CST)
From: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
	(Win)/5.0.19_GA_3083.RHEL5_64)
Cc: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Where do you get Varsol nowadays? I couldn't find any in the Pensacola area.

Tim Davis BN7

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "I Erbs" <eyera3@gmail.com>
Cc: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2012 12:25:48 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column replacement

Ira,
Before you go to all the trouble of installing the replacement box I would
strongly recommend that you test it for leaks.
I just did this on the box for my early 100 and discovered a crack in the
original that I would never have picked before the test.
To test mine I used a 3/8" diameter ball from a bearing under the stator
tube flare nut to seal that area then filled the box with varsol and stood
it on end over night.
I didn't put a can under it and the floor was covered in varsol in the a.m.
The varsol is good for cleaning out the box before installing new lubricant
anyway.
Slight leakage around the upper part of the area where the tube is soldered
in are not a problem as that is above the oil level when the box is
installed.
Mine was cracked where the drop shaft tube joined the main box.. Not
good....

-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*

On Sun, Nov 4, 2012 at 12:11 AM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:

> The non adjust steering box has always leaked. New seal and foam bit did
> not help . I just got a replacement column and box( thanks Healeyjim).  Any
> advice on switching out the box? Should I replace the whole column/ box as
> a unit or can I swap out the box alone en situ?
> Any advice is appreciated.
> I will replace seal and foam bit.
> Thanks.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 12:13:56 2012
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Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 11:02:54 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Quick look on google says NAPA should carry it as a carb cleaner
On Nov 4, 2012 11:01 AM, "Tim Davis BN7" <tld6008@mchsi.com> wrote:

> Where do you get Varsol nowadays? I couldn't find any in the Pensacola
> area.
>
> Tim Davis BN7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> To: "I Erbs" <eyera3@gmail.com>
> Cc: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2012 12:25:48 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column replacement
>
> Ira,
> Before you go to all the trouble of installing the replacement box I would
> strongly recommend that you test it for leaks.
> I just did this on the box for my early 100 and discovered a crack in the
> original that I would never have picked before the test.
> To test mine I used a 3/8" diameter ball from a bearing under the stator
> tube flare nut to seal that area then filled the box with varsol and stood
> it on end over night.
> I didn't put a can under it and the floor was covered in varsol in the a.m.
> The varsol is good for cleaning out the box before installing new lubricant
> anyway.
> Slight leakage around the upper part of the area where the tube is soldered
> in are not a problem as that is above the oil level when the box is
> installed.
> Mine was cracked where the drop shaft tube joined the main box.. Not
> good....
>
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>                          *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
>
> On Sun, Nov 4, 2012 at 12:11 AM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > The non adjust steering box has always leaked. New seal and foam bit did
> > not help . I just got a replacement column and box( thanks Healeyjim).
>  Any
> > advice on switching out the box? Should I replace the whole column/ box
> as
> > a unit or can I swap out the box alone en situ?
> > Any advice is appreciated.
> > I will replace seal and foam bit.
> > Thanks.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Tim Davis BN7" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
References: <801422662.16095891352055692862.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 10:23:23 -0800
Cc: Healey Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/what-happened-varsol-146676/




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim Davis BN7" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "I Erbs" <eyera3@gmail.com>; "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2012 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column replacement


> Where do you get Varsol nowadays? I couldn't find any in the Pensacola 
> area.
>
> Tim Davis BN7 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 13:15:40 2012
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Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 11:43:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: healey.nut@gmail.com, michaelsalter@gmail.com,
	healeys-bounces@autox.team.net, healeys@autox.team.net, Jim Lesher
	<cleona44@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I used Koch's Steering Wheel Restoration in Canyon Country, California for my
Bugeye and my BN2 wheels.  Excellent job on both.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

--- On Sun, 11/4/12, Jim Lesher <cleona44@hotmail.com> wrote:
Has anyone used www.steeringwheelbob.com? He is located in NJ. He does
excellent work, but it is pricy
Best  of Luck - Jim
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 13:39:50 2012
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	<D6D68B01A6BB4C0C99871A3B58E0A934@Mike>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 12:22:18 -0800
To: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
Cc: Healey Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/paint-thinner-378-l/912215

Home depot
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)



On Sun, Nov 4, 2012 at 10:23 AM, Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:

> http://www.practicalmachinist.**com/vb/general/what-happened-**
> varsol-146676/<http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/what-happened-varsol-146676/>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Davis BN7" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
> To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> Cc: "I Erbs" <eyera3@gmail.com>; "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2012 11:01 AM
>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column replacement
>
>
>  Where do you get Varsol nowadays? I couldn't find any in the Pensacola
>> area.
>>
>> Tim Davis BN7
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 14:42:25 2012
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	2012 21:39:21 -0000
From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 13:39:16 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac261NcWyDP1fWVZTceZWD1iUxYR2A==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering column replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I overhauled my adjustable column on the bench around 5-7 years ago. It
still doesn't leak. Leaking is usually caused by too much play in a worn
bushing.

 

Removing steering box from the car involved removing the radiator, grille,
steering wheel & hub. Once you get the grill and radiator out of the way
it's not that difficult to rotate the assembly and pull it out through the
radiator opening. I used pickle forks and Kroil to get the tie rods apart.
One of them I had to heat the outer area of the tie rod joint a little with
a propane torch to get it to expand just a little.

 

I pulled the pittman arm on the bench with a cheap Harbor Freight pittman
puller.

 

Once you've got it on the bench you can compare the states of the bushings
and lever shafts between your original and the new box.

 

My shaft was mostly unworn so I got away with installing a new bushing and
two of the new-type thin seals.

 

I used a brand-new brake hone to hone the bushing to size. It took me about
a half hour of honing to open it up just enough for the shaft to slide
through.

 

This method won't work with a worn shaft because the the part of the shaft
that's worn to the bushing is smaller in diameter than the outer part - so
the shaft will wobble when inserted in a new bushing sized to the original
diameter of the outer part of the shaft. Whew, hope that was clear.

 

Hopefully one of your boxes has a good shaft in it. I hear worn shafts can
be built up with plasma and ground back down to spec.

 

With the overhauled box on the bench, it's easy to set the adjuster screw
tension checking for binding with the pittman arm at the right and left
positions. Don't adjust it with the arm pointed straight ahead as that's the
most-worn position and will cause binding when turning the wheel to either
side.

 

FWIW.

 

 

>>> 

Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2012 21:11:24 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=eyera3@gmail.com> >
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=healeys@autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Steering column replacement
Message-ID:
<CACPMnYrP=D3EUjAugjef-o_VXnUf4=fOpKrHoTiEoVKnctb5Bw@mail.gmail.com>

The non adjust steering box has always leaked. New seal and foam bit did
not help . I just got a replacement column and box( thanks Healeyjim).  Any
advice on switching out the box? Should I replace the whole column/ box as
a unit or can I swap out the box alone en situ?
Any advice is appreciated.
I will replace seal and foam bit.
Thanks.

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 16:30:12 2012
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	Sun, 04 Nov 2012 17:18:50 -0600 (CST)
From: "Mike Garvey" <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8CF86669408C4F1-C30-6660E@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com>
	<AB560109A0AD46D0BC30CCEF81DA5BC3@PatrickQuinnPC>
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2012 18:18:18 -0500
Thread-index: Ac24VbOw/3vpTAqbQKimxNHX120lDQAFbBcwAJ3BACA=
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There was a very interesting obituary for John Fitch in the Boston Globe,
including a photo:

http://www.boston.com/news/nation/2012/11/02/john-cooper-fitch-racing-car-dr
iver-and-adventurer/GAz6uEuKYcnGcc1j3UAYFO/story.html

Mike

Michael Garvey
1967 BJ8/38046
Swampscott, MA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 4:08 PM
To: healeyguy@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed

G'day Perry

It's interesting that there is an Australian driver of the same period who
has a very similar history.

Squadron Leader Tony Gaze DFC and Two Bars was in England at the start of
WW2, joined the RAF, had 11 kills. Was also shot down and worked alongside
the French Resistance. Later was the first Allied pilot to land in France
after D Day.

Tony had raced at Brooklands before the war and then went motor racing and
raced all over Europe, Australia and NZ after and eventually went on to
represent Australia in gliding.

There is a book about his exploits called 'Almost Unknown'. He is still
alive.

I have had the pleasure of interviewing both Fitch and Gaze and they
are/were both very similar and unassuming people.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeyguy@aol.com
Sent: Friday, 2 November 2012 3:39 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed

Sometimes things in life are somewhat serendipity. I opened my December
issue of Road & Track and there is a nice article about John Fitch on page
46 called Almost Famous.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 31, 2012 7:36 pm
Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed


Sorry to report that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment
that as saved countless lives passed this morning at age 95.
Speed On Dear John
Best
K
______________________________________________


-----Original Message-----
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 31, 2012 7:36 pm
Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch has passed


Sorry to report that the great driver and inventor of auto safety equipment
that as saved countless lives passed this morning at age 95.
Speed On Dear John
Best
K
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 18:50:40 2012
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>, <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 17:48:41 -0800
References: <1352040747.7940.YahooMailNeo@web124704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>,
	<5096871C.3000306@comcast.net>,
	<CA+QDXmB8MiQRtqiW4eZdeJ0HoGWHQBC1P+2fW0fjqNY_HN8bcQ@mail.gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[AFA97820:01CDBAF7]
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Repro Lucas 576 Lamps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a Moss one with the Moss name on it (for sale cheap). I remember there
being more rivits on the back compared to Lucas ones.
Rich Kahn

> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2012 18:56:22 +0100
> From: pajtamuvek@gmail.com
> To: mgcharlie@comcast.net
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Repro Lucas 576 Lamps
>
> I have the same experience, only the chromework is not the same quality,
> but that something quite not surprizing today.
>
> Gergo
>
> 2012/11/4 Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
>
> > Rick,
> > If they are the same as Moss has carried, they are of a very high
quality.
> >  In fact, the parts are interchangeable with the originals.  I have some
> > originals and repros and it is hard to tell the difference.
> > Early on, Moss had to put their name where it says Lucas, so that was a
> > dead giveaway.
> > I don't know if they still do, but Mos would sell parts separately to
> > repair originals.
> > I can't imagine that these are not the same as the Moss units.
> > Charlie
> >
> >
> > On 11/4/2012 9:52 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> >
> >> Has anyone bought these repro lamps:
> >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucas-**SFT576-Fluted-Clear-Fog-Lamp-**
> >>
NEW-with-Bulb-/360<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucas-SFT576-Fluted-Clear-Fog-Lamp
-NEW-with-Bulb-/360>
> >> 430670532?pt=Vintage_Car_**Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=**
> >> item53eb5792c4&vxp=mtr
> >> What's the quality.  Some of the repros I've seen are pretty cheesy
> >> compared
> >> to the original.
> >>
> > ______________________________**_________________
> > Support Team.Net
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailma
n/listinfo/healeys>
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> >
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healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 21:45:59 2012
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Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2012 21:16:16 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:11.0) Gecko/20120315
	Firefox/11.0 SeaMonkey/2.8
To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net, vintage-race@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] A couple of John Fitch photos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A couple of nice pictures from LeMans.


http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=132


mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  5 02:07:11 2012
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 08:41:23 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac27MVS32VCMTdseRWafshDGgBdQhw==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Obituary in UK's Daily Telegraph:-

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/sport-obituaries/9654484/John-Fit
ch.html

 

Simon.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  5 11:27:33 2012
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Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 10:08:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thankyou Simon, The Daily Telegraph told the story with a bit more accuracy and depth than either the Boston Globe or NY Times.
The auto dealership in White Plains NY was, as far as I know, for Willys, not Mercedes, as stated in Globe and Times.
I believe The Fitch Phoenix was to be a passenger sports car rather than a "race car". 200 orders were taken before Nader/GM pulled the plug.
I have a series of photos taken a few years ago by a girlfriend at Lime Rock, of Mr Fitch with the Pheonix. John had just been told that something seemed to be leaking from the car. 90+ year old Mr Fitch gets down on the ground to look under car to verify, jumps up and gets in car saying he must get it back home(about 200 yards from the track) and speeds off. Inspiring!
The first time I saw he and the Pheonix was when leaving the track one day. He was driving in front of me when I recognized the car, remembering those side mounted spare tires, different sizes front and rear, from the magazine articles back in the day. As the exit road turns left just after the bridge, he looked back at me, I waved and smiled, he did the same.
The annual Jaguar Drivers Club meeting at Lime Rock is a low key non spectator event that was the perfect time to find him and converse. When it was discovered that my girlfriends mother was a cousin of his friend, and inventor of the racing stripe, Coby Whitmore, we had plenty to talk about. Once, when talking about the Pheonix, he suddenly said, "That reminds me, I need to call Roger Penske tomorrow". I was somewhat stunned to realize that I was talking to an icon that had a hotline to the titans of the industry.
As others have said, he will be greatly missed at Lime Rock.
Best
JK


------------------------------
On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 3:41 AM EST Simon Lachlan wrote:

>Obituary in UK's Daily Telegraph:-
>
>http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/sport-obituaries/9654484/John-Fit
>ch.html
>
> 
>
>Simon.
>_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  5 12:02:14 2012
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 10:46:33 -0800
To: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Articles and sale material for the Phoenix
http://www.intermeccanica.org/vehicles/phoenix/phoenix.htm
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)



On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 10:08 AM, Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>wrote:

> Thankyou Simon, The Daily Telegraph told the story with a bit more
> accuracy and depth than either the Boston Globe or NY Times.
> The auto dealership in White Plains NY was, as far as I know, for Willys,
> not Mercedes, as stated in Globe and Times.
> I believe The Fitch Phoenix was to be a passenger sports car rather than a
> "race car". 200 orders were taken before Nader/GM pulled the plug.
> I have a series of photos taken a few years ago by a girlfriend at Lime
> Rock, of Mr Fitch with the Pheonix. John had just been told that something
> seemed to be leaking from the car. 90+ year old Mr Fitch gets down on the
> ground to look under car to verify, jumps up and gets in car saying he must
> get it back home(about 200 yards from the track) and speeds off. Inspiring!
> The first time I saw he and the Pheonix was when leaving the track one
> day. He was driving in front of me when I recognized the car, remembering
> those side mounted spare tires, different sizes front and rear, from the
> magazine articles back in the day. As the exit road turns left just after
> the bridge, he looked back at me, I waved and smiled, he did the same.
> The annual Jaguar Drivers Club meeting at Lime Rock is a low key non
> spectator event that was the perfect time to find him and converse. When it
> was discovered that my girlfriends mother was a cousin of his friend, and
> inventor of the racing stripe, Coby Whitmore, we had plenty to talk about.
> Once, when talking about the Pheonix, he suddenly said, "That reminds me, I
> need to call Roger Penske tomorrow". I was somewhat stunned to realize that
> I was talking to an icon that had a hotline to the titans of the industry.
> As others have said, he will be greatly missed at Lime Rock.
> Best
> JK
>
>
> ------------------------------
> On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 3:41 AM EST Simon Lachlan wrote:
>
> >Obituary in UK's Daily Telegraph:-
> >
> >
> http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/sport-obituaries/9654484/John-Fit
> >ch.html
> >
> >
> >
> >Simon.
> >_______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  5 15:22:44 2012
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Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 14:03:39 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>,
	"simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] John Fitch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've attended the vintage festivals at Lime Rock for just about 30 yrs and
have seen some memorable racing and racers.  But I'll never forget seeing Mr.
Fitch, well into his 80s, driving the downhill coming onto the main straight. 
He went a bit wide to the left then came back across the track to the right
and onto the grass, looking like he was going to collect the car into the
guardrail.  Somehow, driving on the grass, he managed to collect it all up and
come to a safe stop.  It would have been astounding for a driver in his
prime.  Raise a glass to a life well-lived.



 
Rick


"Madman in a death
machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Jackson Krall
<jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk 
Cc:
healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2012 1:08 PM
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] John Fitch
 

As others have said, he will be greatly missed at Lime
Rock.
Best
JK
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  6 06:04:13 2012
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Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2012 13:38:51 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
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To: cbaustin@verizon.net
References: <509190E8.4080309@verizon.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Maybe Healey, definitely Lucas
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Take care with these part numbers, e.g 2M100 for the starter indicates 
only the basic model of there are many variations like e.g. different 
pinions, starter solenoids (or not) etc.
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 31-10-2012 21:58, Charley Braum schreef:
> Can anyone ID the following numbers and advise a source for rebuild 
> parts?
>
>     I'm asking for an acquaintance and don't have any more information 
> than the numbers.
>
>     Thanks,
>
>                     starter -        2M100
>                     alternator -   23662A
>
>
> Charley Braum
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2742 / Virusdatabase: 2617/5865 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 10/31/12
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  6 10:27:38 2012
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 09:09:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Week
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here is a TV show "CarCrazy" about Healey's. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44NZEDu9rwk&feature=youtu.be
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 14:10:04 2012
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To: Healeys@autox.team.net
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] test
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test, please delete
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 19:05:14 2012
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From: Jim Lesher <cleona44@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 20:49:02 -0500
	FILETIME=[3AAF61C0:01CDBD53]
Subject: [Healeys] Britishcarforum ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Is this site operating?     Britishcarforum     I have not been able to
receive it on my PC
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 19:35:41 2012
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References: <SNT002-W429DCC9130B6DB7AD7A046C5690@phx.gbl>
From: Britcrs <britcrs@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 19:18:26 -0700
To: Jim Lesher <cleona44@hotmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Britishcarforum ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Has been down all day.

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 7, 2012, at 6:49 PM, Jim Lesher <cleona44@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Is this site operating?     Britishcarforum     I have not been able to
> receive it on my PC
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 19:52:08 2012
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Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 21:21:13 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
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1967 3000 that looks much too nice for the asking price of $22411. Bargain or
scam?
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/ctd/3392976242.html
Aloha
Perry
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 19:52:55 2012
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References: <SNT002-W429DCC9130B6DB7AD7A046C5690@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 19:21:20 -0700
From: Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
To: Jim Lesher <cleona44@hotmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Britishcarforum ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It appears down on my end as well.

Basil may be in the process of doing the upgrade. I know he's been
talking about it a lot lately.

Jody

On Wed, Nov 7, 2012 at 6:49 PM, Jim Lesher <cleona44@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Is this site operating?     Britishcarforum     I have not been able to
> receive it on my PC
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr@gmail.com
>



-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 19:54:58 2012
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Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2012 19:25:07 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:11.0) Gecko/20120315
	Firefox/11.0 SeaMonkey/2.8
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <SNT002-W429DCC9130B6DB7AD7A046C5690@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Britishcarforum ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Some folks on other Team.Net lists have also noted that the site is not
currently available.  It may get sorted soon, we shall see.

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 20:20:19 2012
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Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 22:07:07 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeyguy@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hummmmmmm---well, at the PVGP in July, there was one for sale that looks just like this one----BUT--the sale price was a little more than $23K but not much--and the car was driven down from Cleveland, for the show.  We commented at the time that the asking price was too low.  This could be that car and the price could be accurate.

tom


---- healeyguy@aol.com wrote: 

=============
1967 3000 that looks much too nice for the asking price of $22411. Bargain or
scam?
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/ctd/3392976242.html
Aloha
Perry
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 20:21:33 2012
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>, <healeyguy@aol.com>
References: <8CF8B6EDBC9E533-F28-74A@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 21:07:30 -0600
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The symbols in the title and the odd numbered price (and the low price of 
course) point to a scam, I often see late model Camry's and such with 
similar symbols and low price on the local CL, they usually don't have that 
much information about the car though, but it sure looks like a scam to me. 
But if its real I am all in.

Greg Lemon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 20:38:24 2012
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References: <8CF8B6EDBC9E533-F28-74A@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 19:19:30 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "healeyguy@aol.com" <healeyguy@aol.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This dealer that's selling the same car in West Palm for $85k is going to be
chuffed: 
http://www.classiccar.com/austin/austin-healey-3000/austin-healey-3000-mk.-ii
i-sports-convertible_6230/?back=austin%2Faustin-healey-3000  Like your Dad
always told you, 'If it seems too good to be true..."



 
Rick


"Madman in a
death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: "healeyguy@aol.com"
<healeyguy@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, November 7,
2012 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
 
1967
3000 that looks much too nice for the asking price of $22411. Bargain or
scam?
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/ctd/3392976242.html
Aloha
Perry
_______________________________________________
Archive:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 20:53:58 2012
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From: Jim McDermott <jmcd206@msn.com>
To: <tomfelts@windstream.net>, <healeyguy@aol.com>, Austin_Healey
	Healey_Net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 19:26:58 -0800
References: <8CF8B6EDBC9E533-F28-74A@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com>,
	<20121107220707.EHOFI.14668.root@pamxwww06-z01>
	FILETIME=[E8E95BD0:01CDBD60]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The description says that the top has side curtains?  Looks like roll-up
windows to me>Jim McDermottBN4Cascade Austin Healey Club
 > Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 22:07:07 -0500
> From: tomfelts@windstream.net
> To: healeyguy@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
>
> Hummmmmmm---well, at the PVGP in July, there was one for sale that looks
just like this one----BUT--the sale price was a little more than $23K but not
much--and the car was driven down from Cleveland, for the show.  We commented
at the time that the asking price was too low.  This could be that car and the
price could be accurate.
>
> tom
>
>
> ---- healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
>
> =============
> 1967 3000 that looks much too nice for the asking price of $22411. Bargain
or
> scam?
> http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/ctd/3392976242.html
> Aloha
> Perry
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmcd206@msn.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 21:07:22 2012
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Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2012 20:47:16 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:11.0) Gecko/20120315
	Firefox/11.0 SeaMonkey/2.8
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <SNT002-W429DCC9130B6DB7AD7A046C5690@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Britishcarforum ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I remember some years ago when the ISP I was using went Tango Uniform.
Team.Net was off the air for something like 10 days.  I'm surprised I still
have any hair.

mjb.
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 21:25:45 2012
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	Wed, 07 Nov 2012 22:06:20 -0600 (CST)
From: "Mike Garvey" <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8CF8B6EDBC9E533-F28-74A@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com>
	<D40833E19FDA4E93A2A2F4954CA57D70@GregPC>
Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2012 23:05:43 -0500
Thread-index: Ac29YGHddxTe39RKSjCQuR51NZrwCQABXHEQ
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Please pardon my ignorance, but what is the scam?  
Is the seller offering a car different from the pictures/description?  
Curious, also, that "side curtains" are featured on a '67 MK III.....

Mike

Michael Garvey
1967 BJ8/38046
Swampscott, MA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 10:08 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; healeyguy@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist

The symbols in the title and the odd numbered price (and the low price of
course) point to a scam, I often see late model Camry's and such with
similar symbols and low price on the local CL, they usually don't have that
much information about the car though, but it sure looks like a scam to me. 
But if its real I am all in.

Greg Lemon
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/r3m1g4@verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 22:08:05 2012
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  (PST)
References: <8CF8B6EDBC9E533-F28-74A@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com>
	<D40833E19FDA4E93A2A2F4954CA57D70@GregPC>
	<000901cdbd66$545edf70$fd1c9e50$@net>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 21:39:59 -0700
From: Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
To: Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike,

Basically the same as any scam. Someone who has no rights or ownership
of the car presents pictures of it and offers to sell it at an
unbelieveable price. Then the story stats how it's in california, or
is somewhere else, and has to be shipped. If you can just make a 20%
deposit on the car. etc. etc. etc.

Next thing you know your money's gone.

This one was patently obvious as the photos of the car were most
definitely not taken in Pittsburgh. No phone number or name are also
indicators. On Craigslist the term Caveat Emptor is of utmost
importance. Never, ever, ever, ever, talk $$ about a car unless you or
a representative can see it and the seller has a title in hand.

Jody

On Wed, Nov 7, 2012 at 9:05 PM, Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net> wrote:
> Please pardon my ignorance, but what is the scam?
> Is the seller offering a car different from the pictures/description?
> Curious, also, that "side curtains" are featured on a '67 MK III.....
>
> Mike
>
> Michael Garvey
> 1967 BJ8/38046
> Swampscott, MA
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
> Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 10:08 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net; healeyguy@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
>
> The symbols in the title and the odd numbered price (and the low price of
> course) point to a scam, I often see late model Camry's and such with
> similar symbols and low price on the local CL, they usually don't have that
> much information about the car though, but it sure looks like a scam to me.
> But if its real I am all in.
>
> Greg Lemon
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/r3m1g4@verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr@gmail.com
>



-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 22:24:15 2012
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Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 20:54:07 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The scam is the seller doesn't own the car he has pictured in the ad.  If you
were trying to buy it from him, he'd either try to get a deposit from you or
even the full purchase price, never to be heard from again. It's a pretty
common scam on CL to steal an image off the internet and post an ad as if you
were the owner trying to sell it.


 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 02:45:06 2012
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2012 01:29:16 -0700
From: Michael Hartfield <hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

These scammers put the same ad in several large cities on Craigslist, and
then gather Email addresses.  I would bet they will not respond to your
inquiry,

Michael Hartfield
1965 BJ8
Oregon AHCO
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 03:46:41 2012
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2012 21:26:53 +1100
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To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
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Mike Garvey wrote:

>Please pardon my ignorance, but what is the scam?  
>Is the seller offering a car different from the pictures/description?  
>Curious, also, that "side curtains" are featured on a '67 MK III.....
>
>Mike
>
>  
>

Whats up? My original BJ.8 has side curtins, and on both sides!

Donald Healey made 5 with side curtins.
Joe
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 05:36:39 2012
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From: "Neil Blackshire" <neilblackshire@gmail.com>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
References: <002e01cda967$1576df50$40649df0$@com>
	<CAB3i7LKEzH1x=TjZ6CyLrsMiAAyY7t_193EvRqjgUJFWdden+A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 13:08:52 +0100
Thread-index: Ac2pcb2KXBF5kDuhTgyjbNZFJPMUnQUMFVBg
Content-language: es
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Michael,

Finally got to trying to fix the overdrive. I want  to try to look at the
accumulator seals with the unit still in the car before taking everything
out and stripping down the whole unit. Here is a photo of where I am, the
piston moves smoothly in the bore.I have read the archives, the buckeye site
and utube, but I am not sure what to do next;, I have read that it is
difficult to get the piston back in to the bore so I am worried about
pulling the piston out, my fingers are small but theres not much room to
work in there. But how can I get the bore out without removing the piston.
Or am I missing something?

Thanks for any input.

Neil



De: michael.salter@gmail.com [mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com] En nombre de
Michael Salter
Enviado el: sabado, 13 de octubre de 2012 20:37
Para: Neil Blackshire
CC: Healeys@autox.team.net
Asunto: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive problem



Hi Neil,
Based upon my experience i would think that the oil type is not likely to be
the real problem.
You should check that the operating valve is opening all the way as per the
workshop manual as that is very easy and can cause problems but again not
the most likely cause.
My bet would be that the pressure accumulator bore and piston are badly
scored and allowing oil to pass. This can, with considerable effort be
corrected without removing the gearbox.
Wear and damage on other parts can contribute to the leakage but most of
those, like the operating pistons require removal of the unit for repair.

--
Michael Salter

                         I have BJ8 water pump kits!!



On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 1:20 PM, Neil Blackshire <neilblackshire@gmail.com>
wrote:

Hi Listers,

I just got back from 2000 mile round trip in my 1960 3000, after about 1000
miles sometimes the overdrive would not stay engaged up hill, as journey
continued it gradually got worse until it would disengage straight away. I
was reading about possible causes and solutions and in the workshop manual
it says not to use extreme pressure oil,  I have been adding 75w80 extreme
pressure oil to the gearbox since I have owned the car, 3 years (several
litres) and before leaving on the journey I used 80w90 by mistake. I know
that there are different views on which oil to use, but I thought to try
draining oil and replacing with 20w50 engine oil but manual says removing
filter drain plug  leaves about < pint in the overdrive. Could this small
amount of oil still be a problem? Or am I just wasting my time anyway as the
problem is more likely to be the clutches or an oil pressure problem.

Any comments please.
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 05:38:03 2012
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From: "Neil Blackshire" <neilblackshire@gmail.com>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
References: <002e01cda967$1576df50$40649df0$@com>
	<CAB3i7LKEzH1x=TjZ6CyLrsMiAAyY7t_193EvRqjgUJFWdden+A@mail.gmail.com> 
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 13:18:50 +0100
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Content-Language: es
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry , forgot the photo



De: Neil Blackshire [mailto:neilblackshire@gmail.com]
Enviado el: jueves, 08 de noviembre de 2012 13:09
Para: 'Michael Salter'
CC: 'Healeys@autox.team.net'
Asunto: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive problem



Hi Michael,

Finally got to trying to fix the overdrive. I want  to try to look at the
accumulator seals with the unit still in the car before taking everything
out and stripping down the whole unit. Here is a photo of where I am, the
piston moves smoothly in the bore.I have read the archives, the buckeye site
and utube, but I am not sure what to do next;, I have read that it is
difficult to get the piston back in to the bore so I am worried about
pulling the piston out, my fingers are small but theres not much room to
work in there. But how can I get the bore out without removing the piston.
Or am I missing something?

Thanks for any input.

Neil



De: michael.salter@gmail.com [mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com] En nombre de
Michael Salter
Enviado el: sabado, 13 de octubre de 2012 20:37
Para: Neil Blackshire
CC: Healeys@autox.team.net
Asunto: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive problem



Hi Neil,
Based upon my experience i would think that the oil type is not likely to be
the real problem.
You should check that the operating valve is opening all the way as per the
workshop manual as that is very easy and can cause problems but again not
the most likely cause.
My bet would be that the pressure accumulator bore and piston are badly
scored and allowing oil to pass. This can, with considerable effort be
corrected without removing the gearbox.
Wear and damage on other parts can contribute to the leakage but most of
those, like the operating pistons require removal of the unit for repair.

--
Michael Salter

                         I have BJ8 water pump kits!!

On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 1:20 PM, Neil Blackshire <neilblackshire@gmail.com>
wrote:

Hi Listers,

I just got back from 2000 mile round trip in my 1960 3000, after about 1000
miles sometimes the overdrive would not stay engaged up hill, as journey
continued it gradually got worse until it would disengage straight away. I
was reading about possible causes and solutions and in the workshop manual
it says not to use extreme pressure oil,  I have been adding 75w80 extreme
pressure oil to the gearbox since I have owned the car, 3 years (several
litres) and before leaving on the journey I used 80w90 by mistake. I know
that there are different views on which oil to use, but I thought to try
draining oil and replacing with 20w50 engine oil but manual says removing
filter drain plug  leaves about < pint in the overdrive. Could this small
amount of oil still be a problem? Or am I just wasting my time anyway as the
problem is more likely to be the clutches or an oil pressure problem.

Any comments please.
_______________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Dosrius-20121108-00017.jpg]
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 05:38:33 2012
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	id A2/E6-13446-243AB905; Thu, 08 Nov 2012 07:19:14 -0500
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 7:19:14 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeyguy@aol.com, Jim McDermott <jmcd206@msn.com>,  Austin_Healey
	Healey_Net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Good point Jim---I didn't read that.

tom

---- Jim McDermott <jmcd206@msn.com> wrote: 

=============

The description says that the top has side curtains?  Looks like roll-up windows to me>Jim McDermottBN4Cascade Austin Healey Club
 > Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 22:07:07 -0500
> From: tomfelts@windstream.net
> To: healeyguy@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
> 
> Hummmmmmm---well, at the PVGP in July, there was one for sale that looks just like this one----BUT--the sale price was a little more than $23K but not much--and the car was driven down from Cleveland, for the show.  We commented at the time that the asking price was too low.  This could be that car and the price could be accurate.
> 
> tom
> 
> 
> ---- healeyguy@aol.com wrote: 
> 
> =============
> 1967 3000 that looks much too nice for the asking price of $22411. Bargain or
> scam?
> http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/ctd/3392976242.html
> Aloha
> Perry
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> 
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> 
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> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 06:52:34 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Neil Blackshire'" <neilblackshire@gmail.com>, "'Healey list'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <002e01cda967$1576df50$40649df0$@com><CAB3i7LKEzH1x=TjZ6CyLrsMiAAyY7t_193EvRqjgUJFWdden+A@mail.gmail.com>
	<000501cdbda9$d3a9dda0$7afd98e0$@com>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 06:30:17 -0700
Thread-index: Ac2pcb2KXBF5kDuhTgyjbNZFJPMUnQUMFVBgAASiWPA=
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Neil,
 99% of the time it is not the piston rings, but the large O-ring that seals
the cylinder that contains the small accumulator piston. Either you remove
it with air pressure or with an extractor. Call or write me for more detail
if you wish to proceed on your own.
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Neil Blackshire
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2012 5:09 AM
To: 'Michael Salter'
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive problem

Hi Michael,

Finally got to trying to fix the overdrive. I want  to try to look at the
accumulator seals with the unit still in the car before taking everything
out and stripping down the whole unit. Here is a photo of where I am, the
piston moves smoothly in the bore.I have read the archives, the buckeye site
and utube, but I am not sure what to do next;, I have read that it is
difficult to get the piston back in to the bore so I am worried about
pulling the piston out, my fingers are small but theres not much room to
work in there. But how can I get the bore out without removing the piston.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 07:27:17 2012
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: warthodson@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 09:05:13 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: [Healeys] another overdrive problem
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Recently, I mentioned that my overdrive has begun to shift into OD more
slowly. The shifts can take up to 3-5 seconds. This problem has progressed to
the point that now about 50% of the time it does not shift into OD at all.
When this happens I noticed an unusual phenomena. If I shift into OD, but the
OD does not engage, and I take my foot off the gas, the engine RPM drops
immediately to idle, even though the clutch is still engaged & I may be going
60 MPH. The RPM does not drop to idle if I am in direct drive & I take my foot
off the gas at 60 MPH. So, apparently the OD has partially engaged but not
completely. Does anyone know what is happening in this example? Obviously, the
electrical part of the OD is engaging or it would act just like direct drive.
I have not had an opportunity to check the OD operating pressure, but will
soon. The transmission is full of the correct oil.
Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 09:12:09 2012
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References: <8CF8BD134828135-21EC-25D62@webmail-m142.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 10:54:38 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] another overdrive problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Gary,
I believe that this is also caused by low hydraulic pressure in the
overdrive.
 The pressure has to overcome spring pressure when "overdrive" is selected.
If the pressure is too low the cone clutch lifts off its "normal" position
but does not move all the way to the "overdrive" position and stays in
no-mans-land. When you apply throttle the unidirectional clutch provides
the drive but that only works when the engine is pushing the car, not the
car pushing the engine.
You should start by checking the overdrive oil pressure, it should be 470 -
490 p.s.i.....the seldom are that high.

Michael S



On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 9:05 AM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

> Recently, I mentioned that my overdrive has begun to shift into OD more
> slowly. The shifts can take up to 3-5 seconds. This problem has progressed
> to
> the point that now about 50% of the time it does not shift into OD at all.
> When this happens I noticed an unusual phenomena. If I shift into OD, but
> the
> OD does not engage, and I take my foot off the gas, the engine RPM drops
> immediately to idle, even though the clutch is still engaged & I may be
> going
> 60 MPH. The RPM does not drop to idle if I am in direct drive & I take my
> foot
> off the gas at 60 MPH. So, apparently the OD has partially engaged but not
> completely. Does anyone know what is happening in this example? Obviously,
> the
> electrical part of the OD is engaging or it would act just like direct
> drive.
> I have not had an opportunity to check the OD operating pressure, but will
> soon. The transmission is full of the correct oil.
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 09:29:21 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8CF8BD134828135-21EC-25D62@webmail-m142.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 09:08:03 -0700
Thread-index: Ac29vUi2OBPHK/97RRm4WAZO5u1BqAADbeQw
Subject: Re: [Healeys] another overdrive problem
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frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world



I just sent Neil pictures and a brief description of my home made
accumulator extractor. If any of you want a copy e-mail me off list..
dave
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 18:11:31 2012
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To: healeys@autox.team.net, spridgets@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Healeys] Life is a breeze!
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Or, sometimes, strong gusty winds preceding a storm front.  The kind
of winds that break off tree branches.  Tree branches that hit power
lines, or perhaps phone lines, like the one that connects Team.Net
to the world.

Back on the air, I apologise for the service outage.

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 20:31:12 2012
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2012 22:04:48 -0500
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8CF8B6EDBC9E533-F28-74A@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Is that a palm tree in the upper left?  Not many of those (none) in 
Pittsburgh, unless in Phipps Conservatory.
Charlie


On 11/7/2012 9:21 PM, healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
> 1967 3000 that looks much too nice for the asking price of $22411. Bargain or
> scam?
> http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/ctd/3392976242.html
> Aloha
> Perry
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 20:59:47 2012
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Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 19:40:20 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
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Is there no license plate?

Mike
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2012 20:23:11 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I need to adjust my pre-shaped exhaust down pipes and I have access 
to a hydraulic pipe bender. I have experimented a little and when I 
bend a pipe it does not seem to go in the direction I would expect it to go.

Are there any trade secrets or tricks to figuring out how to get a 
pipe bent a few degrees in a predictable direction?

Thank you,

John Spaur
San Jose, CA
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 21:43:44 2012
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 04:26:18 +0000
References: <8CF8B6EDBC9E533-F28-74A@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com>,
	<509C72D0.5060701@comcast.net>
	FILETIME=[5D590610:01CDBE32]
Subject: [Healeys] Help needed from down under (non-Healey)
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Greetings to listers in  Australia. I have a problem regarding my Series I
Land Rover.

In a moment of gross over exhuberance and poor judgement on the trail I
managed to break the left rear axle half shaft on my 1957 109. In my search of
the Internet I located a replacement part at a business located in Australia.
I should have ordered it on the spot, but I thought I could find a better
price. I've since learned that these things are like hen's teeth and I have
not found any other source anywhere. In the interim I've forgotten the
dealer's name and can't find their web page again. Could anyone advise me of a
source of Land Rover parts that might have rare old parts like this?

If not I could use a list of Land Rover parts dealers Australia.

Thanks in advance.

Bill Lawrence
Albuquerque, NM, USA

> Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 22:04:48 -0500
> From: mgcharlie@comcast.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Pittsburgh PA Craigslist
>
> Is that a palm tree in the upper left?  Not many of those (none) in
> Pittsburgh, unless in Phipps Conservatory.
> Charlie
>
>
> On 11/7/2012 9:21 PM, healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
> > 1967 3000 that looks much too nice for the asking price of $22411. Bargain
or
> > scam?
> > http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/ctd/3392976242.html
> > Aloha
> > Perry
> > _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 22:02:17 2012
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Distributor
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I have a 25D part# 40882F ... anyone know what it's for?  BJ8?

TIA,
Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 22:50:03 2012
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To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <509C89CE.6060605@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Bob Spidell wrote:
> I have a 25D part# 40882F ... anyone know what it's for?  BJ8?
>
>

Hard to say.  It was used on Healeys, MGC, TR6, ....

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 22:52:18 2012
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 00:23:35 -0500
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob--

Probably more than you want to know but go here:

 http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/lucas25d4.htm

Best--Michael Oritt


On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 11:42 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> I have a 25D part# 40882F ... anyone know what it's for?  BJ8?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/michael.oritt@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  8 23:33:26 2012
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Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2012 21:55:59 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
References: <509C89CE.6060605@comcast.net>
  <509C8F3A.2010007@bradakis.com>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor
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I found a list of Lucas distributors on Scribd ($9 for one day access).  Closest number I found was 40882A for a '1966 
Vanden Plas 4 litre Princess R.'

Looks like some of the parts are interchangeable, however.

Thanks for the responses.

Bob


On 11/8/2012 9:06 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Bob Spidell wrote:
>> I have a 25D part# 40882F ... anyone know what it's for?  BJ8?
>>
>>
>
> Hard to say.  It was used on Healeys, MGC, TR6, ....
>
> mjb.
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From: "Ross Osborne" <ross.osborne@xtra.co.nz>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8CF8BD134828135-21EC-25D62@webmail-m142.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAB3i7L+MWwkY_a+9qgdCENYMCD7-_zwEs3+HhxNtXumSKuX_jA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 20:13:50 +1300
Subject: Re: [Healeys] another overdrive problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Following a recent rebuild I have 470-490 psi but it drops to 110-120 when 
O/D selected and does not engage until the pressure builds back up to about 
130. The pressure then slowly climbs back to 470-490.

I am experiencing a similar problem to Gary's where the O/D  'slips' when 
the vehicle slows down with no throttle applied. In my case at about 30 mph. 
This did not happen until the gauge was removed but I assume the pressure 
leaks off when travelling slowly and the oil is hot.

Any ideas why there is such a large drop in pressure, I understand it should 
drop only 100-150 as O/D engages.



Ross Osborne NZ


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: <warthodson@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2012 4:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] another overdrive problem


> Hi Gary,
> I believe that this is also caused by low hydraulic pressure in the
> overdrive.
> The pressure has to overcome spring pressure when "overdrive" is selected.
> If the pressure is too low the cone clutch lifts off its "normal" position
> but does not move all the way to the "overdrive" position and stays in
> no-mans-land. When you apply throttle the unidirectional clutch provides
> the drive but that only works when the engine is pushing the car, not the
> car pushing the engine.
> You should start by checking the overdrive oil pressure, it should be 
> 470 -
> 490 p.s.i.....the seldom are that high.
>
> Michael S
>
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 9:05 AM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Recently, I mentioned that my overdrive has begun to shift into OD more
>> slowly. The shifts can take up to 3-5 seconds. This problem has 
>> progressed
>> to
>> the point that now about 50% of the time it does not shift into OD at 
>> all.
>> When this happens I noticed an unusual phenomena. If I shift into OD, but
>> the
>> OD does not engage, and I take my foot off the gas, the engine RPM drops
>> immediately to idle, even though the clutch is still engaged & I may be
>> going
>> 60 MPH. The RPM does not drop to idle if I am in direct drive & I take my
>> foot
>> off the gas at 60 MPH. So, apparently the OD has partially engaged but 
>> not
>> completely. Does anyone know what is happening in this example? 
>> Obviously,
>> the
>> electrical part of the OD is engaging or it would act just like direct
>> drive.
>> I have not had an opportunity to check the OD operating pressure, but 
>> will
>> soon. The transmission is full of the correct oil.
>> Gary Hodson
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Michael Salter
>
>                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 01:49:13 2012
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From: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: 9 Nov 2012 09:30:27 +0100
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

usually you can find other numbers stamped on the housing, which can give a hint which car the dizzy belongs to.
There should be a 4 (or sometimes 3) digit number, which shows like 10 62 or 6 59. This is the production date of the dizzy, with the first 2 (or sometimes 1) digit(s) being the week of the year and the 2 last digits being the year.
If your 40882F shows something like 3 68 (being the 3rd week of 1968), this dizzy cannot be for an Austin Healey for obvious reasons.

Eric
Brits 'n' Pieces
distributor for distributors (123ignition) ;-)




I have a 25D part# 40882F ... anyone know what it's for?  BJ8?

TIA,
Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 03:04:54 2012
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Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2012 10:38:04 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: lists <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
References: <20121109083031.6EC4A32003E2@dd12314.kasserver.com>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Unless you are absolutely sure the distributor has never been tampered 
with, rebuild or modified, you cannot go by the numbers. All 25D 
distributors bodies were the same with variations in advance springs, 
weights, advance /retard vacuum system, 4 or 6 cilinder top shaft plus 
some variations in the drive system, off-set dog, gear etc.
When rebuilding distributors one takes an empty undamaged body, with any 
numbers stamped on it, and build it up according the needs for the 
specific vehicle with the specified parts. Some re-builders may mark the 
body as modified/rebuilt for a specific application, but most probably 
will not. In the past I have rebuild many distributor this way and I 
must admit I never marked the bodies to be identified in the far future.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL






Op 9-11-2012 9:30, lists schreef:
> Bob,
>
> usually you can find other numbers stamped on the housing, which can give a hint which car the dizzy belongs to.
> There should be a 4 (or sometimes 3) digit number, which shows like 10 62 or 6 59. This is the production date of the dizzy, with the first 2 (or sometimes 1) digit(s) being the week of the year and the 2 last digits being the year.
> If your 40882F shows something like 3 68 (being the 3rd week of 1968), this dizzy cannot be for an Austin Healey for obvious reasons.
>
> Eric
> Brits 'n' Pieces
> distributor for distributors (123ignition) ;-)
>
>
>
>
> I have a 25D part# 40882F ... anyone know what it's for?  BJ8?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 04:22:39 2012
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 19:02:53 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Kit - Stunning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All -

I can't recall seeing this one on the list before.  It is arguably the
prettiest kit / rebody I've seen on a healey.  Ward Special is up there,
but this is very handsome.

http://www.oldtimermanchester.com/details.asp?Auto_ID=374
http://www.oldtimermanchester.com/images/products/large/Product_374.jpg
http://www.oldtimermanchester.com/images/products/large/Product_374_9.jpg

I guess John chatham had a hand in the restoration.

Very nice.

Alan
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 04:05:56 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>, Healey
  <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Kit - Stunning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This was featured on Bring a Trailer earlier this year:
http://bringatrailer.com/2011/03/01/bring-a-trailer-whatzit-55/   Interesting
backstory as it was found next to the AMTRAK tracks in LA. It's hard to
believe the history of this car hasn't been established.



 
Rick


"Madman
in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 6:02 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Kit - Stunning
 
All -

I can't recall seeing this
one on the list before.  It is arguably the
prettiest kit / rebody I've seen
on a healey.  Ward Special is up there,
but this is very handsome.
http://www.oldtimermanchester.com/details.asp?Auto_ID=374
http://www.oldtimermanchester.com/images/products/large/Product_374.jpg
http://www.oldtimermanchester.com/images/products/large/Product_374_9.jpg

I
guess John chatham had a hand in the restoration.

Very nice.

Alan
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 07:01:22 2012
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Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2012 05:36:59 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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CC: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20121109083031.6EC4A32003E2@dd12314.kasserver.com>
	<509CCEFC.5000207@chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Distributor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This list cost me $9, but it's online in case anyone's interested:

http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/lucas.pdf

There.  Now I don't feel so ripped-off.  Looks like Scribd scarfs stuff off the 'net and then sells it to dummies like me.

Eric, for some reason I didn't get your post through the list (only Kees' reply).  Thanks for the tips.   Thanks to 
Kees, Michael and Mark, too.

Bob



On 11/9/2012 1:38 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> Unless you are absolutely sure the distributor has never been tampered with, rebuild or modified, you cannot go by the 
> numbers. All 25D distributors bodies were the same with variations in advance springs, weights, advance /retard vacuum 
> system, 4 or 6 cilinder top shaft plus some variations in the drive system, off-set dog, gear etc.
> When rebuilding distributors one takes an empty undamaged body, with any numbers stamped on it, and build it up 
> according the needs for the specific vehicle with the specified parts. Some re-builders may mark the body as 
> modified/rebuilt for a specific application, but most probably will not. In the past I have rebuild many distributor 
> this way and I must admit I never marked the bodies to be identified in the far future.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Op 9-11-2012 9:30, lists schreef:
>> Bob,
>>
>> usually you can find other numbers stamped on the housing, which can give a hint which car the dizzy belongs to.
>> There should be a 4 (or sometimes 3) digit number, which shows like 10 62 or 6 59. This is the production date of the 
>> dizzy, with the first 2 (or sometimes 1) digit(s) being the week of the year and the 2 last digits being the year.
>> If your 40882F shows something like 3 68 (being the 3rd week of 1968), this dizzy cannot be for an Austin Healey for 
>> obvious reasons.
>>
>> Eric
>> Brits 'n' Pieces
>> distributor for distributors (123ignition) ;-)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a 25D part# 40882F ... anyone know what it's for?  BJ8?
>>
>> TIA,
>> Bob
>>
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 06:51:07 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>, Healey List
	<healeys@autox.team.net>, Spridgets List <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 50 Years of Bond Cars
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Link would be helpful: 
http://www.streetfire.net/video/top-gear-50-years-of-bond-cars_2403449.htm
 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From:
HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>;
Spridgets List <spridgets@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 7:09
AM
Subject: [Healeys] 50 Years of Bond Cars
 
Another good BBC show, set aside
an hour for this one:  

Top Gear - 50 Years
of Bond Cars - Car Videos on
StreetFire
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 10:29:41 2012
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 09:26:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello John, I have zero experiance with bending machines but there is a
procedure done w/OA torch called a wrincle bend that might be more
controlable. Make a red hot ring around pipe at the place you want the bend,
place the pipe in a vise or other leveragable position and give it a yank in
direction of needed bend. A slight bulge will appear on inside radius but not
a kink. If more bend is needed, heat another ring next to first and repeat,
etc. I've made decent looking 900 bends this way, not unlike store bought
pipes that have bends with a washboard look.
Best
JK

------------------------------
On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 11:23 PM EST john spaur wrote:

>I need to adjust my pre-shaped exhaust down pipes and I have access to a
hydraulic pipe bender. I have experimented a little and when I bend a pipe it
does not seem to go in the direction I would expect it to go.
>
>Are there any trade secrets or tricks to figuring out how to get a pipe bent
a few degrees in a predictable direction?
>
>Thank you,
>
>John Spaur
>San Jose, CA
>_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 14:37:30 2012
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  (PST)
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 13:20:45 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] secure password checker
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://howsecureismypassword.net/<https://mail.evergreenps.org/owa/redir.aspx?C=VUuSBcngwkSqJ7KqZcjRon0GVMRekc9ILcnz-jP3vJ_ZjR9bHVAlPd_9Cr2JfTuBVVlvhSo_y2A.&URL=http%3a%2f%2fhowsecureismypassword.net%2f>
If you are interested in finding out how secure your passwords are, check
here.
Real email sent out by me. Safe site to click in to.
Ira

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 15:05:04 2012
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 07:51:04 +1000
From: Noel and Helen standfast <hstandfa@iinet.net.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
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To: Healeys list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Land Rover parts Down Under
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Bill

try FWD Motors here in Brisbane, (http://www.fwd-motors.com.au) it's 
owned by an ex AHOC member and Healey enthusiast, they have a lot of 
stock and usually go to the trouble to find it if they haven't got it.  
There's also another Land Rover dealer north of Brisbane, British Off 
Road who I haven't had any dealings with but advertise that they have 
plenty of bits and wreck Landies,  see http://www.britishoffroad.com/

good luck with it


Noel S
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 18:56:52 2012
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <hstandfa@iinet.net.au>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 01:36:43 +0000
References: <509D7AC8.3060401@iinet.net.au>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Land Rover parts Down Under
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you Noel. I'llcheck both.

Bill

> Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 07:51:04 +1000
> From: hstandfa@iinet.net.au
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Land Rover parts Down Under
>
> Hi Bill
>
> try FWD Motors here in Brisbane, (http://www.fwd-motors.com.au) it's
> owned by an ex AHOC member and Healey enthusiast, they have a lot of
> stock and usually go to the trouble to find it if they haven't got it.
> There's also another Land Rover dealer north of Brisbane, British Off
> Road who I haven't had any dealings with but advertise that they have
> plenty of bits and wreck Landies,  see http://www.britishoffroad.com/
>
> good luck with it
>
>
> Noel S
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 20:30:13 2012
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From: greylinn@ozemail.com.au
To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink@msn.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 11:15:58 +0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Help needed from down under (non-Healey)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

	There's also this mob in Gympie, Queensland Bill:

	B 
http://www.landroverspares.com.au/ [1]

	B 

	THey deal with older stuff. It's
remotely possible that I may be able
to find someithng - I'll let you know
when I get back to Brisbane (I'm
in Melbourne right now)

	B 

	Cheers
Greetings to listers in Australia. I have a problem regarding my
Series I
Land Rover.

 In a moment of gross over exhuberance and poor judgement on the
trail
I
 managed to break the left rear axle half shaft on my 1957 109. In my
search of
 the Internet I located a replacement part at a business located in
Australia.
 I should have ordered it on the spot, but I thought I could find a
better
 price. I've since learned that these things are like hen's teeth and
I
have
 not found any other source anywhere. In the interim I've forgotten
the
dealer's name and can't find their web page again. Could anyone
advise me of a
source of Land Rover parts that might have rare old parts like this?

 If not
I could use a list of Land Rover parts dealers Australia.

 Thanks in advance.
Bill Lawrence
 Albuquerque, NM, USA



Links:
------
[1]
http://www.landroverspares.com.au/
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 10 14:47:43 2012
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	Sat, 10 Nov 2012 15:44:56 -0600 (CST)
From: "Mike Garvey" <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000d01cdb515$8288b370$879a1a50$@net>
	<8CF8363068975AC-384-4A18A@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 16:44:16 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe just to close the chapter on this:



I was never able to get a tight seal using the (machine thread) shutoff
(with fiber washer) from Moss.

I finally opted for a shutoff that I got from a local radiator shop which
had a <-18NPT thread.

Mike



Michael Garvey

1967 BJ8/38046

Swampscott, MA



From: Larry Wendland [mailto:bighealey3k@aim.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 4:36 PM
To: r3m1g4@verizon.net; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain



Mike,  It has been many years since I had my radiator drain tap removed, but
as I remember it is right hand threaded and is a machine thread (straight
thread).  I don't remember the size and threads per inch.  The drain tap in
the side of the block behind and below the exhaust manifold is the same type
of tap and is interchangeable as I remember.  They both use the fiber
washers to seal them.  I've seen two fiber washers, if needed, used on the
block drain tap to get it clocked the right way so as not to over torque it
in order to get it vertical (handle on top and drain hole on bottom).



Larry

'67 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 28, 2012 10:13 am
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain

I need to replace the radiator drain on my BJ8.  The existing drain (which
is a tubular left-hand-threaded concentric bore arrangement) appears to have
pipe threads (ie tapered threads and sealed with sealant) which mate to the
radiator.



The replacement tap (which is a rotary valve with handle) that I have
received from Moss (pn 460-020) is sealed with a fiber washer(pn 324-671); I
am unsure if the new drain has tapered threads.



I am sure someone has been down this road and can advise me on whether I
have the correct replacement parts from Moss.



Thanks in advance, Mike



Michael Garvey

1967 BJ8/38046

Swampscott, MA
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 10 16:51:06 2012
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To: r3m1g4@verizon.net, Healeys@autox.team.net
From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike,  It crossed my mind after I replied to you earlier, that someone may
have forced a pipe threaded drain valve in to the bottom of the radiator and
in doing so, reshaped the threads or used a pipe tap.  If it doesn't leak,
that is a good thing.

Larry
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Nov 10, 2012 4:48 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain


Maybe just to close the chapter on this:



I was never able to get a tight seal using the (machine thread) shutoff
(with fiber washer) from Moss.

I finally opted for a shutoff that I got from a local radiator shop which
had a <-18NPT thread.

Mike



Michael Garvey

1967 BJ8/38046

Swampscott, MA



From: Larry Wendland [mailto:bighealey3k@aim.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 4:36 PM
To: r3m1g4@verizon.net; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain



Mike,  It has been many years since I had my radiator drain tap removed, but
as I remember it is right hand threaded and is a machine thread (straight
thread).  I don't remember the size and threads per inch.  The drain tap in
the side of the block behind and below the exhaust manifold is the same type
of tap and is interchangeable as I remember.  They both use the fiber
washers to seal them.  I've seen two fiber washers, if needed, used on the
block drain tap to get it clocked the right way so as not to over torque it
in order to get it vertical (handle on top and drain hole on bottom).



Larry

'67 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 28, 2012 10:13 am
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain

I need to replace the radiator drain on my BJ8.  The existing drain (which
is a tubular left-hand-threaded concentric bore arrangement) appears to have
pipe threads (ie tapered threads and sealed with sealant) which mate to the
radiator.



The replacement tap (which is a rotary valve with handle) that I have
received from Moss (pn 460-020) is sealed with a fiber washer(pn 324-671); I
am unsure if the new drain has tapered threads.



I am sure someone has been down this road and can advise me on whether I
have the correct replacement parts from Moss.



Thanks in advance, Mike



Michael Garvey

1967 BJ8/38046

Swampscott, MA
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 05:00:17 2012
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 07:00:16 -0500
From: R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Is there any substantive reason not to use white lithium assembly grease in
the steering box of my '65 BJ8?  I know this is not the optimal solution
(it won't hold the hypo) but I'd prefer not to mess with it right now.  It
steers easily, tracks perfectly and has virtually no play currently.
Thanks,
Ric
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 05:45:16 2012
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From: andy pole <ampole@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box
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Ric
I think you would be better trying the penrite steering box lube which is
especially made for worm type boxes , it's a cross between an oil and grease,
and many find it solves their leaks, you can also double up on the oil seal on
the box and idler as its usual that the shaft is pitted where the original one
rides, cheers andy

> Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 07:00:16 -0500
> From: healeydriver1@gmail.com
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box
>
> Is there any substantive reason not to use white lithium assembly grease in
> the steering box of my '65 BJ8?  I know this is not the optimal solution
> (it won't hold the hypo) but I'd prefer not to mess with it right now.  It
> steers easily, tracks perfectly and has virtually no play currently.
> Thanks,
> Ric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 05:58:08 2012
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From: "Mike Garvey" <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain
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Likely most of you saw "<-18NPT thread" which should be "one-quarter-18 NPT
thread".  
Somehow the numeric fraction one-quarter did not appear as I originally sent
it.   
Now the chapter is closed.

Mike

Michael Garvey
1967 BJ8/38046
Swampscott, MA




-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mike Garvey
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2012 4:44 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain

Maybe just to close the chapter on this:



I was never able to get a tight seal using the (machine thread) shutoff
(with fiber washer) from Moss.

I finally opted for a shutoff that I got from a local radiator shop which
had a <-18NPT thread.

Mike



Michael Garvey

1967 BJ8/38046

Swampscott, MA



From: Larry Wendland [mailto:bighealey3k@aim.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 4:36 PM
To: r3m1g4@verizon.net; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain



Mike,  It has been many years since I had my radiator drain tap removed, but
as I remember it is right hand threaded and is a machine thread (straight
thread).  I don't remember the size and threads per inch.  The drain tap in
the side of the block behind and below the exhaust manifold is the same type
of tap and is interchangeable as I remember.  They both use the fiber
washers to seal them.  I've seen two fiber washers, if needed, used on the
block drain tap to get it clocked the right way so as not to over torque it
in order to get it vertical (handle on top and drain hole on bottom).



Larry

'67 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 28, 2012 10:13 am
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Radiator Drain

I need to replace the radiator drain on my BJ8.  The existing drain (which
is a tubular left-hand-threaded concentric bore arrangement) appears to have
pipe threads (ie tapered threads and sealed with sealant) which mate to the
radiator.



The replacement tap (which is a rotary valve with handle) that I have
received from Moss (pn 460-020) is sealed with a fiber washer(pn 324-671); I
am unsure if the new drain has tapered threads.



I am sure someone has been down this road and can advise me on whether I
have the correct replacement parts from Moss.



Thanks in advance, Mike



Michael Garvey

1967 BJ8/38046

Swampscott, MA
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 06:59:58 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
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I understand the statement below, but I am not familiar with the term "on the
rock". Does anyone know the origin & exactly what does it refer to?
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update

A point of clarification: when you set the camshaft to "on the rock" on the
number four cylinder you are setting it so that both of  the valves on number
four are closed. In other words you are setting it so that number four
cylinder is on the compression stroke.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 07:19:27 2012
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 09:19:55 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill's message is missing a bit of information I think.
When #4 cylinder is "on the rock" you set the clearances on #1 cylinder...
In most 4 stroke engines, at the end of the exhaust stroke the inlet valve
opens before TDC and the exhaust valve closes after TDC .
that means that at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke both valves are
open, at least partially.
As you move the engine back and forth past that TDC point the valve rockers
for #4 cylinder will "rock" i.e. one will open as the other closes hence
the term "on the rock".
When that is the case when #4 is "on the rock" #1 cylinder is at the top of
its compression stroke. At that point the cams (on the camshaft) for #1
cylinder are both pointing away from the lifters for the valves of #1
cylinder which is where they need to be for setting the clearances.

Michael Salter

I have body panels check here <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=445>


On Sun, Nov 11, 2012 at 8:59 AM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

> I understand the statement below, but I am not familiar with the term "on
> the
> rock". Does anyone know the origin & exactly what does it refer to?
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
>
> A point of clarification: when you set the camshaft to "on the rock" on the
> number four cylinder you are setting it so that both of  the valves on
> number
> four are closed. In other words you are setting it so that number four
> cylinder is on the compression stroke.
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>


-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 07:21:08 2012
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 06:21:48 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3AF+JgW9RV13SBQd+aWGgu2xbg9Q==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Modified Healey Disc Pad materials
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm in the process of converting my BN6 to BJ8 front disc brakes. Am going
to use the Toyota 4-piston calipers like Moss sells in their big brake kit.
My car already has a .75" master cylinder.

 

With no brake booster, am wondering which of the current Four pad materials
would give the least pedal pressure. The following is from an online
Consumer Reports article:

 

>>> 

There are four general types of brake pads for cars and trucks:

Semimetallic: This formula, containing about 30 to 65 percent metal,
typically includes chopped steel wool or wire, iron powder, copper or

graphite mixed with inorganic fillers, and friction modifiers that bond all
the ingredients together. These pads are more durable and have

excellent heat transfer, but also wear down rotors faster, can be noisy, and
may not perform optimally at low temperatures.

Nonasbestos organic: Sometimes listed as organic or NAO, this type of pad is
made from fibers, such as glass, rubber, carbon, and Kevlar,

with filler materials and high-temperature resins. These pads are softer and
create less noise, but they wear faster and create more dust.

Low-metallic NAO: These are made from an organic formula mixed with small
amounts (10 to 30 percent) of copper or steel to help with heat

transfer and provide better braking. With the added metal, there is more
brake dust and they may be slightly noisier.

Ceramic: These are composed of ceramic fibers, nonferrous filler materials,
bonding agents, and possibly small amounts of metal. Lighter in

color and more expensive than other brake pads, ceramic pads are cleaner and
quieter, and offer excellent braking characteristics without

wearing down the rotors.

<<< 

 

It looks like my main choices are Organic and Ceramic - would appreciate
experience-based advice.

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 09:43:50 -0600
From: "E.A. Driver" <edriver@sasktel.net>
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To: Austin Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Remembrance and Veterans Day
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A heartfelt thanks to all who served, are serving and a very special
thanks to those who sacrificed and did not return.

Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 08:48:06 2012
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 09:48:04 -0600
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Modified Healey Disc Pad materials
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What are you using the car for, Steve ? ? ?

That should be what determines which compound.

Ed
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 10:27:40 2012
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References: <CACPMnYrdzsPw2k=LwxBCFdiY3M7hk-O_4h-Rf=tq7hm8Y=eAGw@mail.gmail.com>
	<076048D2-835E-412B-BF15-63CD36AF2A54@me.com>
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 09:28:08 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Robert Duquette <robert.duquette@me.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] secure password checker
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Its not tied yo any account.  Just checks the strength of a password and
shows how to make it more secure.
On Nov 11, 2012 5:59 AM, "Robert Duquette" <robert.duquette@me.com> wrote:

> Oh.  I didn't go there to check it out, but I imagined that going to a
> site to enter your pswds might not be the safest thing.
>
> But, I believe that you know what you're doing.
>
> On 2012-11-09, at 7:24 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> No I sent it. For people to check their passwords so they don't get
> hijacked.
> On Nov 9, 2012 3:36 PM, "Robert Duquette" <robert.duquette@me.com> wrote:
>
>> Hijacked?
>>
>> Get an email form ED yet?  :)
>>
>> Robert
>> Sent from my device that doesn't pay me to advertise for them.
>>
>> On 2012-11-09, at 4:20 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > http://howsecureismypassword.net/<
>> https://mail.evergreenps.org/owa/redir.aspx?C=VUuSBcngwkSqJ7KqZcjRon0GVMRekc9ILcnz-jP3vJ_ZjR9bHVAlPd_9Cr2JfTuBVVlvhSo_y2A.&URL=http%3a%2f%2fhowsecureismypassword.net%2f
>> >
>> > If you are interested in finding out how secure your passwords are,
>> check
>> > here.
>> > Real email sent out by me. Safe site to click in to.
>> > Ira
>> >
>> > Ira Erbs
>> > Portland, OR
>> >   _______                                  _______
>> >     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>> >         (_________________________)
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >
>> > Healeys@autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/robertduquette@sympatico.ca
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 13:11:37 2012
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 20:06:36 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net, Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There's an article somewhere that tells you to avoid kinks by filling the pipe
with dry sand.  Haven't tried it myself but it's probably Googleable.
Regards, D

--- On Fri, 9/11/12, Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
To: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Friday, 9 November, 2012, 17:26

Hello John, I have zero experiance with bending machines but there is a
procedure done w/OA torch called a wrincle bend that might be more
controlable. Make a red hot ring around pipe at the place you want the bend,
place the pipe in a vise or other leveragable position and give it a yank in
direction of needed bend. A slight bulge will appear on inside radius but not
a kink. If more bend is needed, heat another ring next to first and repeat,
etc. I've made decent looking 900 bends this way, not unlike store bought
pipes that have bends with a washboard look.
Best
JK

------------------------------
On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 11:23 PM EST john spaur wrote:

>I need to adjust my pre-shaped exhaust down pipes and I have access to a
hydraulic pipe bender. I have experimented a little and when I bend a pipe it
does not seem to go in the direction I would expect it to go.
>
>Are there any trade secrets or tricks to figuring out how to get a pipe bent
a few degrees in a predictable direction?
>
>Thank you,
>
>John Spaur
>San Jose, CA
>_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 14:04:07 2012
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From: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 13:03:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] vernier timing gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone installed a vernier timing gear from Dennis welch? I am curious  
if one needs to install a tensioner ring on the gear? Are these  
functional without any oil thrower attached to them, and how to secure  
the cam gear securing nut as there is no provision for the locking tab  
washer to be used on this unit. Should I just use locktite? Cheers, JQ
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 14:02:34 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <1352481977.79220.BPMail_high_carrier@web130202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<1352664396.38813.YahooMailClassic@web29706.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
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/local/mailman/lynxXXXXBfRJEg: Permission denied
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 14:15:01 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3AWf47aRcEH4XgTr+D20kSrvoihA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Modified Healey Disc Pad material
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Normal Healey driving - no autocross or racing.

 

Do you have a suggestion which compound would be best for normal driving
without power boost.

 

Ed said:

>>> 

Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 09:48:04 -0600
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=shop@justbrits.com> >
To: healeys@autox.team.net
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=healeys@autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Modified Healey Disc Pad materials
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=509FC8B4.8090406@justbrits.com> >

What are you using the car for, Steve ? ? ?

That should be what determines which compound.

Ed

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 18:17:37 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
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Mike,
Your description refers to #4 cylinder being at the end of the exhaust stroke
& at TDC both of #4's valves will be partially open.
But Bill's message refers to #4 cylinder being on the compression stroke &
neither of #4's valves are open.
In your scenario, we would be adjusting the valves on #1 cylinder. In Bill's
scenario we would be adjusting the valves on #4 cylinder.
I thought the discussion was about setting the cam timing!
Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: warthodson <warthodson@aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 11, 2012 8:19 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update


Bill's message is missing a bit of information I think.
When #4 cylinder is "on the rock" you set the clearances on #1 cylinder...
In most 4 stroke engines, at the end of the exhaust stroke the inlet valve
opens before TDC and the exhaust valve closes after TDC .
that means that at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke both valves are open,
at least partially.
As you move the engine back and forth past that TDC point the valve rockers
for #4 cylinder will "rock" i.e. one will open as the other closes hence the
term "on the rock".
When that is the case when #4 is "on the rock" #1 cylinder is at the top of
its compression stroke. At that point the cams (on the camshaft) for #1
cylinder are both pointing away from the lifters for the valves of #1 cylinder
which is where they need to be for setting the clearances.

Michael Salter

I have body panels check here




On Sun, Nov 11, 2012 at 8:59 AM,  <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

I understand the statement below, but I am not familiar with the term "on the
rock". Does anyone know the origin & exactly what does it refer to?
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update

A point of clarification: when you set the camshaft to "on the rock" on the
number four cylinder you are setting it so that both of  the valves on number
four are closed. In other words you are setting it so that number four
cylinder is on the compression stroke.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com





--
Michael Salter

                         I have BJ8 water pump kits!!
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Phil Jarrett <pjarrett14@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 19:01:24 -0500
To: Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] vernier timing gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello ,

I just had the DW vernier experience. It was very frustrating. In the end I
was told to drill the cam nut and lock wire it to the cam gear. I got this
straight from DW, I do not understand why they refuse to include detailed
installation instructions. Nice looking gear, the rest of the setup is normal
, nothing else is changed.
Phil

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-11-11, at 16:03, Jonathan Quandt <jfaquandt@comcast.net> wrote:

> Anyone installed a vernier timing gear from Dennis welch? I am curious if
one needs to install a tensioner ring on the gear? Are these functional
without any oil thrower attached to them, and how to secure the cam gear
securing nut as there is no provision for the locking tab washer to be used on
this unit. Should I just use locktite? Cheers, JQ
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 17:21:23 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'David Porter'" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>, <warthodson@aol.com>,
	<michaelsalter@gmail.com>
References: <90D45C14-5208-4679-A3F1-034AEA44B292@comcast.net><BAY166-W12EF0965AB5E29FB8464C3A57C0@phx.gbl><8CF8E2BE4F35C86-9A0-37AA0@webmail-m161.sysops.aol.com><CAB3i7LK3ZDeQp_YVFW1kNjo86CrkWKoUrvXMEG5MOMu4NZPnjw@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 17:21:50 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac3AYuEh5u8aCoe6RMip9/Ye0wAp+QABNlyQAAD5gVA=
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The original discussion was about setting the cam in worse case
circumstances. No marks, repositioned keyway, etc. And even then it was
trial and error at best. Plus or minus a tooth.
 Relative to adjusting the lash the beauty of this knowledge you now
possess, one can adjust the valves (from any point in the firing order)
without any extra rotations of the engine. 
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


Mike,
Your description refers to #4 cylinder being at the end of the exhaust
stroke
& at TDC both of #4's valves will be partially open.
But Bill's message refers to #4 cylinder being on the compression stroke &
neither of #4's valves are open.
In your scenario, we would be adjusting the valves on #1 cylinder. In Bill's
scenario we would be adjusting the valves on #4 cylinder.
I thought the discussion was about setting the cam timing!
Gary
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 19:28:56 2012
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: <warthodson@aol.com>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 02:29:15 +0000
References: <90D45C14-5208-4679-A3F1-034AEA44B292@comcast.net>,
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

When the valves in a cylinder are "on the rock" -- that means they are
"rocking". One valve is closing and the other is opening at the same time. You
can see the movement. When you see one starting to open and the other starting
to close  - at the same time, they are rocking,  as when you rock the engine
back and forth. And then you now know that the opposite cylinder is at TDC on
it's compression stroke.
You can also use this method to adjust the valves by following the firing
order and doing it when it's opposite cylinder in "on the rock".
Richard Mayor, BN7-466, Vintage Racer,  Portland, Oregon

> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> From: warthodson@aol.com
> Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 08:59:26 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
>
> I understand the statement below, but I am not familiar with the term "on
the
> rock". Does anyone know the origin & exactly what does it refer to?
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
>
> A point of clarification: when you set the camshaft to "on the rock" on the
> number four cylinder you are setting it so that both of  the valves on
number
> four are closed. In other words you are setting it so that number four
> cylinder is on the compression stroke.
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 22:02:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

David
Ive been aware of the sand technique for a long time and have always wanted to
try it. I read somewhere that its the way the "bundle of snakes" header on Jim
Clarks 65 Indy Lotus Ford was fabricated.
Best
JK


------------------------------
On Sun, Nov 11, 2012 1:56 PM EST David Lodge wrote:

>There's an article somewhere that tells you to avoid kinks by filling the
pipe with dry sand.  Haven't tried it myself but it's probably Googleable.
>Regards, D
>
>--- On Fri, 9/11/12, Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
>To: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Date: Friday, 9 November, 2012, 17:26
>
>Hello John, I have zero experiance with bending machines but there is a
>procedure done w/OA torch called a wrincle bend that might be more
>controlable. Make a red hot ring around pipe at the place you want the bend,
>place the pipe in a vise or other leveragable position and give it a yank in
>direction of needed bend. A slight bulge will appear on inside radius but
not
>a kink. If more bend is needed, heat another ring next to first and repeat,
>etc. I've made decent looking 900 bends this way, not unlike store bought
>pipes that have bends with a washboard look.
>Best
>JK
>
>------------------------------
>On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 11:23 PM EST john spaur wrote:
>
>>I need to adjust my pre-shaped exhaust down pipes and I have access to a
>hydraulic pipe bender. I have experimented a little and when I bend a pipe
it
>does not seem to go in the direction I would expect it to go.
>>
>>Are there any trade secrets or tricks to figuring out how to get a pipe
bent
>a few degrees in a predictable direction?
>>
>>Thank you,
>>
>>John Spaur
>>San Jose,
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 06:02:42 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Can anyone please tell me what this bit of gobbledegook means?  Permission
denied?  Seems as though a photo or diagram has been stripped.  Inbox is full
of 'em!
Regards, D

--- On Sun, 11/11/12, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, 11 November, 2012, 22:02

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXBfRJEg: Permission denied
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 06:06:31 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Not sure if the pipe has to be heated or not.  I'll give it a pop one of these
days!D

--- On Mon, 12/11/12, Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
To: emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Monday, 12 November, 2012, 6:02


David
Ive been aware of the sand technique for a long time and have always wanted to
try it. I read somewhere that its the way the "bundle of snakes" header on Jim
Clarks 65 Indy Lotus Ford was fabricated.
Best
JK


------------------------------
On Sun, Nov 11, 2012 1:56 PM EST David Lodge wrote:

>There's an article somewhere that tells you to avoid kinks by filling the
pipe with dry sand.  Haven't tried it myself but it's probably Googleable.
>Regards, D
>
>--- On Fri, 9/11/12, Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
>To: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Date: Friday, 9 November, 2012, 17:26
>
>Hello John, I have zero experiance with bending machines but there is a
>procedure done w/OA torch called a wrincle bend that might be more
>controlable. Make a red hot ring around pipe at the place you want the bend,
>place the pipe in a vise or other leveragable position and give it a yank in
>direction of needed bend. A slight bulge will appear on inside radius but
not
>a kink. If more bend is needed, heat another ring next to first and repeat,
>etc. I've made decent looking 900 bends this way, not unlike store bought
>pipes that have bends with a washboard look.
>Best
>JK
>
>------------------------------
>On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 11:23 PM EST john spaur wrote:
>
>>I need to adjust my pre-shaped exhaust down pipes and I have access to a
>hydraulic pipe bender. I have experimented a little and when I bend a pipe
it
>does not seem to go in the direction I would expect it to go.
>>
>>Are there any trade secrets or tricks to figuring out how to get a pipe
bent
>a few degrees in a predictable direction?
>>
>>Thank you,
>>
>>John Spaur
>>San Jose,
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 23:24:34 2012
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 23:12:21 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:11.0) Gecko/20120315
	Firefox/11.0 SeaMonkey/2.8
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1352700162.39305.YahooMailClassic@web29701.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

David Lodge wrote:
> Can anyone please tell me what this bit of gobbledegook means?  Permission
> denied?  Seems as though a photo or diagram has been stripped.  Inbox is full
> of 'em!
> Regards, D
>
> /local/mailman/lynxXXXXBfRJEg: Permission denied
>

Mail for the Team.Net lists goes through a filter to convert it to plain 
text.
Normally not an issue for most folks.  But some people use mail programs
that generate really bad HTML or whatever, and the filter just can't figure
it out.  If your mail program doesn't have a plain text option, sometimes
just changing the font will work.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 23:38:02 2012
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From: "John Rowe" <jkrowe46@bigpond.net.au>
To: "'David Lodge'" <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
References: <1352700145.84861.BPMail_high_carrier@web130204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<1352700391.65154.YahooMailClassic@web29706.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 16:27:44 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac3AnDbGUTy9ZgZZQ4i4shGoyy5lnwAAkAYg
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

David
You seal one end by welding plate- pack very tightly with dry sand, the seal
other end the same way. Then with oxy/acetylene torch heat till red and bend
away
Good luck
Cheers
John Rowe  Qld Australia
BN1 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Lodge
Sent: Monday, 12 November 2012 4:07 PM
To: Jackson Krall
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes

Not sure if the pipe has to be heated or not.  I'll give it a pop one of
these
days!D

--- On Mon, 12/11/12, Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bending exhaust down pipes
To: emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Monday, 12 November, 2012, 6:02


David
Ive been aware of the sand technique for a long time and have always wanted
to
try it. I read somewhere that its the way the "bundle of snakes" header on
Jim
Clarks 65 Indy Lotus Ford was fabricated.
Best
JK


------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 01:23:53 2012
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "andy pole" <ampole@hotmail.com>, <healeydriver1@gmail.com>,
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
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	<DUB105-W28BAA326E10E3DEF104196D56E0@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 02:23:45 -0600
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

" Ric
 I think you would be better trying the penrite steering box lube which is
 especially made for worm type boxes , it's a cross between an oil and 
grease,
 and many find it solves their leaks, you can also double up on the oil seal 
on
 the box and idler as its usual that the shaft is pitted where the original 
one
 rides, cheers andy'

I agree, my box leaked even after the rebuild until I put the penrite in, it 
didn't stop the seepage completely, but it made it so slight as to allow me 
to easily convince myself that I had much better things to worry about.

Greg Lemon 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 07:01:25 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Part needed HD6 Choke Lever Rod
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Morning. Looking for the rod, forks and pins that connect the two choke (jet)
levers on the Austin Healey HD6 carb set up. Thought for sure I had one on the
parts bin but can't find it.  Let me know off line what you have. Moss
reference is part numbers 123 -126. See link.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28864
Thanks
Aloha
Perry
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 09:44:28 2012
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 16:44:43 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: warthodson@aol.com, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>, richard mayor
	<mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does every BJ8 cam have an extra lobe about 7 inches in, to drive a
Westminster or 6/90 petrol pump, perhaps?
Regards, D

--- On Mon, 12/11/12, richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com> wrote:

From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
To: warthodson@aol.com, "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, 12 November, 2012, 2:29

When the valves in a cylinder are "on the rock" -- that means they are
"rocking". One valve is closing and the other is opening at the same time.
You
can see the movement. When you see one starting to open and the other
starting
to close  - at the same time, they are rocking,  as when you rock the engine
back and forth. And then you now know that the opposite cylinder is at TDC on
it's compression stroke.
You can also use this method to adjust the valves by following the firing
order and doing it when it's opposite cylinder in "on the rock".
Richard Mayor, BN7-466, Vintage Racer,  Portland, Oregon

> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> From: warthodson@aol.com
> Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 08:59:26 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
>
> I understand the statement below, but I am not familiar with the term "on
the
> rock". Does anyone know the origin & exactly what does it refer to?
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
>
> A point of clarification: when you set the camshaft to "on the rock" on the
> number four cylinder you are setting it so that both of  the valves on
number
> four are closed. In other words you are setting it so that number four
> cylinder is on the compression stroke.
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 10:09:03 2012
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 12:01:45 -0500
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
To: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Plug wires and distributor caps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Some of my plug wires don't sit tightly on the spark plugs anymore, and
squeezing them a bit with pliers only solves the problem for a short time.

What's everyone using for distributor caps (side entry or top-entry) and
plug wires these days?

thanks,

Tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 10:41:14 2012
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 17:41:36 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Plug wires and distributor caps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Genuine Lucas (side entry) caps, stranded copper 7mm wires and resistor plugs (Champion RN12YC) and terminals. 

The NOS/repro right-angle plug caps have a rigid, rugged copper terminal that gives a very definitive 'snap' when you push them on the plug. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----

Some of my plug wires don't sit tightly on the spark plugs anymore, and 
squeezing them a bit with pliers only solves the problem for a short time. 

What's everyone using for distributor caps (side entry or top-entry) and 
plug wires these days? 

thanks, 

Tom 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 10:53:52 2012
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 17:49:44 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Austin <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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check this out http://msnbc.msn.com-report1.us/finance/
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 12:27:51 2012
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This would be an interesting museum to visit. Watch for the yellow Sprite.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbbjGg5_dIk

Gary Hodson
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 11:55:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] MGC - GT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

    Anyone out there got an idea of current MG prices?  A non car type friend
has a MGC - GT, a nice Southern California car laid up for last six years. 
Fluids and hydraulics gone through and it's a pretty nice driver.  He asked me
what the market was and I don't know so I'm asking the wisdom of the list. 
Can anybody help?
Thanks
Ray Juncal
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 13:32:41 2012
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 12:28:41 -0800
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: warthodson@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Craftsmanship museum-with Healey content
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,

Literally 5 minutes drive from my house.  I'm heading over there tomorrow
in the Bugeye.  I'll find out about the yellow Bugeye on display.

Curt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5:{)

On Mon, Nov 12, 2012 at 11:20 AM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

> This would be an interesting museum to visit. Watch for the yellow Sprite.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbbjGg5_dIk
>
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 13:33:49 2012
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 12:30:52 -0800
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
Cc: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] MGC - GT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ray,

They're not worth anything.  Give me his name and address and I'll tow it
away for free.  No need to thank me ;-^)

Curt

On Mon, Nov 12, 2012 at 11:55 AM, Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com> wrote:

>     Anyone out there got an idea of current MG prices?  A non car type
> friend
> has a MGC - GT, a nice Southern California car laid up for last six years.
> Fluids and hydraulics gone through and it's a pretty nice driver.  He
> asked me
> what the market was and I don't know so I'm asking the wisdom of the list.
> Can anybody help?
> Thanks
> Ray Juncal
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 14:32:10 2012
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 22:31:51 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
Organization: Hemma
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1352738683.61361.YahooMailClassic@web29705.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam and crank gear timing update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi
Probably. And not only BJ8's. My engine (BT7 MKII) has a place for a 
petrol pumpin the casting, but only 2 screwholes are made. A BN4 I know 
of has a cutout in the block for a petrol pump that is covered by a 
plate. Which was the source of a big oil leak, until I made a new plate 
to cover the hole.

Per in Sweden

David Lodge skrev 2012-11-12 17:44:
> Does every BJ8 cam have an extra lobe about 7 inches in, to drive a
> Westminster or 6/90 petrol pump, perhaps?
> Regards, D
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 14:34:01 2012
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From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 13:34:48 -0800
To: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Cc: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] MGC - GT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I wouldnt say that to a MG guy. Especially the one that we are doing  
a major restoration to right now.

And I bet if you ask a MG, Jaguar  or Triumph guy what he thought a  
BN4 was worth he may say the same thing about them.

And if you really want to look at values acording to the CPI book  
which is published every 2 months
	Fair $4,125.00   Good $ 7,950.00   Excelent $17,525.00 with a  8%  
increase over the last listing in August

Compared to the BN4
       Fair $ 14,550.00   good $26,000.00   Excelent  $49,400.00   
with a 4% increase over the last listing in AUgust

Same cars listed in the 2005 book

MGC GT    $ 3,400.00     $6,225.00     $11,750.00
BN4	    $9,325.00   $17,000.00     $29,725.00

So I would never say they are worthless. They just dont have the  
value of the Healeys. The both have increased at about the percentage  
over the years.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Nov 12, 2012, at 12:30 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:

> Ray,
>
> They're not worth anything.  Give me his name and address and I'll  
> tow it
> away for free.  No need to thank me ;-^)
>
> Curt
>
> On Mon, Nov 12, 2012 at 11:55 AM, Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>  
> wrote:
>
>>     Anyone out there got an idea of current MG prices?  A non car  
>> type
>> friend
>> has a MGC - GT, a nice Southern California car laid up for last  
>> six years.
>> Fluids and hydraulics gone through and it's a pretty nice driver.  He
>> asked me
>> what the market was and I don't know so I'm asking the wisdom of  
>> the list.
>> Can anybody help?
>> Thanks
>> Ray Juncal
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 15:06:02 2012
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From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 17:00:15 -0500
To: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco A-H 3000
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco A-H 3000 for sale
:http://www.jameslist.com/cars/austin_healey/3000-mk-iii/grace-of-monaco-owne
d-austin-healey-3000-mkiii-for-sale-543530


Greg


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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 23:34:41 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] France
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Is this the future?
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/france/9672713/Old-bangers-a
nd-classic-cars-to-be-banned-from-Paris.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 16:42:49 2012
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From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 18:43:38 -0500
References: <1352750130.96391.YahooMailNeo@web124502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CAJKrNeRfQ-LPUup2NqupeGR2Z1qXpXaBfrXCSyFsm-QKeJOazA@mail.gmail.com>
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To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] MGC - GT
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Re-read Curt's reply on MG value. It is dripping with subtle humor. He was not serious.

Al Malin

On Nov 12, 2012, at 4:34 PM, David Nock wrote:

> I wouldnt say that to a MG guy. Especially the one that we are doing  
> a major restoration to right now.
> 
> And I bet if you ask a MG, Jaguar  or Triumph guy what he thought a  
> BN4 was worth he may say the same thing about them.
> 
> And if you really want to look at values acording to the CPI book  
> which is published every 2 months
> 	Fair $4,125.00   Good $ 7,950.00   Excelent $17,525.00 with a  8%  
> increase over the last listing in August
> 
> Compared to the BN4
>       Fair $ 14,550.00   good $26,000.00   Excelent  $49,400.00   
> with a 4% increase over the last listing in AUgust
> 
> Same cars listed in the 2005 book
> 
> MGC GT    $ 3,400.00     $6,225.00     $11,750.00
> BN4	    $9,325.00   $17,000.00     $29,725.00
> 
> So I would never say they are worthless. They just dont have the  
> value of the Healeys. The both have increased at about the percentage  
> over the years.
> 
> 
> 
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
> 
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> 

> On Nov 12, 2012, at 12:30 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
> 
>> Ray,
>> 
>> They're not worth anything.  Give me his name and address and I'll  
>> tow it
>> away for free.  No need to thank me ;-^)
>> 
>> Curt
>> 
>> On Mon, Nov 12, 2012 at 11:55 AM, Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>  
>> wrote:
>> 
>>>    Anyone out there got an idea of current MG prices?  A non car  
>>> type
>>> friend
>>> has a MGC - GT, a nice Southern California car laid up for last  
>>> six years.
>>> Fluids and hydraulics gone through and it's a pretty nice driver.  He
>>> asked me
>>> what the market was and I don't know so I'm asking the wisdom of  
>>> the list.
>>> Can anybody help?
>>> Thanks
>>> Ray Juncal
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 17:23:39 2012
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'David Lodge'" <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] France
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I think France may already have had its future if some of the financial
forecasts are correct. I hope not.
Interesting article as I expect to be driving in/around Paris in my "old
banger" next June. I shall have to keep an eye out for that one. They are
introducing some quite startling (anti?) car legislation, including one law
that says that you must carry 2 breathalyser kits in your car. (Apparently
they are manufactured by a pal of Sarkozy, the previous and already mourned
President).
Paris is a nice city but its Perepherique (inner ring road) is a battle zone
most of the time. And, of course, the battle is fought on the other(wrong?)
side of the road.
Simon.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Lodge
Sent: 12 November 2012 23:35
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] France

Is this the future?
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/france/9672713/Old-bangers-
a
nd-classic-cars-to-be-banned-from-Paris.html
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 17:24:31 2012
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From: <rvmaylor@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 17:21:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] What 25k Pounds will buy in England?
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http://www.douglasvalley.co.uk/item.asp?prodid=4269&spg=317&pgid=1

I wonder how the driver is after looking at the steering wheel and how much
the steering column has moved.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 17:38:38 2012
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "List Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1352750130.96391.YahooMailNeo@web124502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><CAJKrNeRfQ-LPUup2NqupeGR2Z1qXpXaBfrXCSyFsm-QKeJOazA@mail.gmail.com><F6A3C3E7-651C-432B-A9B4-3C05CF987C2D@sbcglobal.net>
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 18:36:01 -0600
Subject: Re: [Healeys] MGC - GT
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We have a couple nice MGC-GTs in  club, although the sales were a few yars 
ago, I believe the price was im the $7-8000ish range for two nice driver 
level cars.

Greg Lemon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 17:44:38 2012
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To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] Nice little note
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This showed up this morning on our local club list:

   There is a small group of old folks that meet for breakfast each day 
at the
   local McDonalds; so about once a week I fire up the MGB and join in with
   them.  Today with the cold air (in the high teens) and some snow at the
   gutters I backed the MGB out of the shop just before daybreak.  It is a
   thrill to hear the engine come to life, to smell the new interior and 
feel
   the strong firm steering as I look out the shortened windscreen.  
Each shift
   of the gears brings a smile to my face as I listen as the RPM 
increase.  I
   am not too sure that life can get any better than this........


Pretty nice sentiment, regardless of the marque.

mjb.
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Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 02:21:54 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] France
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Brave man; driving there, mate!

--- On Tue, 13/11/12, Simon Lachlan
<simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:

> From: Simon Lachlan
<simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] France
> To: "'David
Lodge'" <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>, healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, 13
November, 2012, 0:18
> I think France may already have had
> its future if
some of the financial
> forecasts are correct. I hope not.
> Interesting
article as I expect to be driving in/around
> Paris in my "old
> banger" next
June. I shall have to keep an eye out for that
> one. They are
> introducing
some quite startling (anti?) car legislation,
> including one law
> that says
that you must carry 2 breathalyser kits in your
> car. (Apparently
> they are
manufactured by a pal of Sarkozy, the previous and
> already mourned
>
President).
> Paris is a nice city but its Perepherique (inner ring road)
> is
a battle zone
> most of the time. And, of course, the battle is fought on
>
the other(wrong?)
> side of the road.
> Simon.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
>
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of David Lodge
> Sent: 12
November 2012 23:35
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys]
France
> 
> Is this the future?
>
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/france/9672713/Old-bangers-
>
a
> nd-classic-cars-to-be-banned-from-Paris.html
>
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> 
>
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 19:28:20 2012
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Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 02:24:48 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, rvmaylor@shaw.ca
Subject: Re: [Healeys] What 25k Pounds will buy in England?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I wonder how much the engine/gearbox has moved!

Regards, D

--- On Tue,
13/11/12, rvmaylor@shaw.ca <rvmaylor@shaw.ca> wrote:

> From: rvmaylor@shaw.ca
<rvmaylor@shaw.ca>
> Subject: [Healeys] What 25k Pounds will buy in England?
>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, 13 November, 2012, 0:21
>
http://www.douglasvalley.co.uk/item.asp?prodid=4269&spg=317&pgid=1
> 
> I
wonder how the driver is after looking at the steering
> wheel and how much
>
the steering column has moved.
>
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> 
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 12 21:18:48 2012
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 20:14:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco A-H 3000
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's the tiny URL:

http://tinyurl.com/ayoemjj

Greg

--- On Mon, 11/12/12, Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco A-H 3000
> To: "Team Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, November 12, 2012, 5:00 PM
> Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco A-H
> 3000 for sale
>
:http://www.jameslist.com/cars/austin_healey/3000-mk-iii/grace-of-monaco-owne
> d-austin-healey-3000-mkiii-for-sale-543530
>
>
> Greg
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone.
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 13 19:21:14 2012
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From: Maurice Maxwell <maxandreb1@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 21:21:25 -0500
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Best spark plugs for Healey 3000
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,
What are the best spark plugs for a stock Healey 3000 engine?  The car is used
for road use with spirited driving.  According to the plug chart on John Simms
web site, my plugs appear to be on the hot side of OK.
Thanks in advance,
Max
1961 MkI
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References: <78B668C0-6334-4D7D-B28C-70BCA3EE553F@yahoo.com>
From: Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 22:45:57 -0500
To: Maurice Maxwell <maxandreb1@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Best spark plugs for Healey 3000
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ngk bp5 es

Sent from my iPad

On 13/11/2012, at 9:21 p.m., Maurice Maxwell <maxandreb1@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Listers,
> What are the best spark plugs for a stock Healey 3000 engine?  The car is
used
> for road use with spirited driving.  According to the plug chart on John
Simms
> web site, my plugs appear to be on the hot side of OK.
> Thanks in advance,
> Max
> 1961 MkI
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 14 06:38:44 2012
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Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 05:33:31 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
	Thunderbird/16.0.2
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Hoods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I need a new hood, and Moss has them on sale:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=72380

I'm inclined to stay 'stock' most of the time, but the canvas hoods look pretty nice.  What's the List wisdom on fit, 
durability, looks, etc. for the various materials?  Unfortunately, the default 'closest to original' English vinyl isn't 
on sale, but if Everflex is close I might go with that.

Any and all comments and suggestions welcome.

Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 08:04:18 -0800 (PST)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>, Maurice Maxwell
	<maxandreb1@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Best spark plugs for Healey 3000
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Max;  Here are some links to files I made up that may help you select
the best spark plug for your use.  These are all in the 'Tech' section of the
AHC of S Ontario website at: 
  http://www.ahcso.com
 

http://www.ahcso.com/pdf/S.%20Smith%20&%20Sons-Austin%20Healey.pdf
 
http://www.ahcso.com/pdf/smiths_parts_list_austin_healey_big.pdf
 

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Tue, 11/13/12, Maurice Maxwell <maxandreb1@yahoo.com> wrote:
<< Listers, What are the best spark plugs for a stock Healey 3000 engine?  The
car is used for road use with spirited driving.  According to the plug chart
on John Simms web site, my plugs appear to be on the hot side of OK. Thanks in
advance,  Max  1961 MkI >>
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 14 12:38:53 2012
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: <bspidell@comcast.net>, "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 14:20:25 -0500
References: <50A39DAB.3010300@comcast.net>
	FILETIME=[19038ED0:01CDC29D]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hoods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,
I had a new black "Stayfast" hood put on my TR6 last May. It looked fantastic
and it fit (and looked) better than the original hood fit even when the car
was brand new!

Then I washed it and dried it with an older chamois and it didn't look as good
because some of the leather flaked off the chamois and seemed to attach itself
under the threads of the Stayfast material. Stayfast might also be more prone
to picking up dust and lint. Maybe all of this could be vaccuumed off. But I
don't have much more experience with it since the hood has been down since
May.
-Dave Murphy
'66 BJ8


> Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 05:33:31 -0800
> From: bspidell@comcast.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Hoods
>
> I need a new hood, and Moss has them on sale:
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=72380
>
> I'm inclined to stay 'stock' most of the time, but the canvas hoods look
pretty nice. What's the List wisdom on fit,
> durability, looks, etc. for the various materials? Unfortunately, the
default 'closest to original' English vinyl isn't
> on sale, but if Everflex is close I might go with that.
>
> Any and all comments and suggestions welcome.
>
> Bob
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 14 13:30:18 2012
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References: <50A39DAB.3010300@comcast.net>
	<SNT133-W26F9FFC6499F1DABA097A9A3530@phx.gbl>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 12:30:36 -0800
To: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
Cc: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hoods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We install lots of the Sunfast and Stayfast tops. Yes you have to be  
carefull when drying these tops. The best thing to do is let the dry  
on their own.
If you have little dust bunnies on your Sunfast of Stayfast top you  
can use a lint roller to clean them up


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Nov 14, 2012, at 11:20 AM, Dave Murphy wrote:

> Bob,
> I had a new black "Stayfast" hood put on my TR6 last May. It looked  
> fantastic
> and it fit (and looked) better than the original hood fit even when  
> the car
> was brand new!
>
> Then I washed it and dried it with an older chamois and it didn't  
> look as good
> because some of the leather flaked off the chamois and seemed to  
> attach itself
> under the threads of the Stayfast material. Stayfast might also be  
> more prone
> to picking up dust and lint. Maybe all of this could be vaccuumed  
> off. But I
> don't have much more experience with it since the hood has been  
> down since
> May.
> -Dave Murphy
> '66 BJ8
>
>
>> Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 05:33:31 -0800
>> From: bspidell@comcast.net
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] Hoods
>>
>> I need a new hood, and Moss has them on sale:
>>
>> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=72380
>>
>> I'm inclined to stay 'stock' most of the time, but the canvas  
>> hoods look
> pretty nice. What's the List wisdom on fit,
>> durability, looks, etc. for the various materials? Unfortunately, the
> default 'closest to original' English vinyl isn't
>> on sale, but if Everflex is close I might go with that.
>>
>> Any and all comments and suggestions welcome.
>>
>> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 14 19:08:55 2012
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Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 20:09:28 -0600 (CST)
From: llennep@verizon.net
To: jvvmusme@yahoo.com, maxandreb1@yahoo.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Best spark plugs for Healey 3000
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All,
 
I tried these and had poor results.  The plugs fouled in short order and the engine ran poorly.  However this could all be due to the condition of the engine - it is old and tired with unknown miles on it.  It does burn oil (but leaks very very little!)
 
Keith


On 11/13/12, Jose Vicente Vargas wrote:

Ngk bp5 es

Sent from my iPad

On 13/11/2012, at 9:21 p.m., Maurice Maxwell <maxandreb1@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Listers,
> What are the best spark plugs for a stock Healey 3000 engine? The car is
used
> for road use with spirited driving. According to the plug chart on John
Simms
> web site, my plugs appear to be on the hot side of OK.
> Thanks in advance,
> Max
> 1961 MkI
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme@yahoo.com
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_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 15 16:14:16 2012
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To install the front hub bearing races, I was going to heat the hubs in boiling water and freeze the races in my freezer.

Is this the correct procedure - or am I risking breaking the races by freezing them in combo with boiling the hubs?

Experience-based advice appreciated.


-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 15 16:35:03 2012
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From: linwoodrose@mac.com
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2012 18:39:33 -0500
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hub bearing race install question
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Hi Steve,
I did not heat the hubs, but I did put the races in the freezer. This worked well. Just be sure to drive in square and all should be fine.
Lin Rose

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 15, 2012, at 2:17 PM, "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com> wrote:

> To install the front hub bearing races, I was going to heat the hubs in boiling water and freeze the races in my freezer.
> 
> Is this the correct procedure - or am I risking breaking the races by freezing them in combo with boiling the hubs?
> 
> Experience-based advice appreciated.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Steve Gerow
> Altadena, CA
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 15 16:39:46 2012
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To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
References: <20121115191706.20767.qmail@hoster902.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hub bearing race install question
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Steve,

I've not needed to heat/cool to install, but I have a hydraulic press. 
But it doesn't take a lot of force.  I'd stick the hubs in the oven. 
That way you don't have to worry about any moisture.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 11/15/2012 02:17 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
> To install the front hub bearing races, I was going to heat the hubs in boiling water and freeze the races in my freezer.
>
> Is this the correct procedure - or am I risking breaking the races by freezing them in combo with boiling the hubs?
>
> Experience-based advice appreciated.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 15 18:10:48 2012
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2012 17:14:47 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3Dl8TH9jjQAewJRyeOiRK9Ul64SA==
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hub bearing race install question - thanks
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Many thanks to all those who responded to my question about bearing race
heating/freezing etc.

 

I'll plan on heating the hubs on the top shelf of my gas grill - that'll
keep the smells out of the kitchen. J

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Best spark plugs for Healey 3000
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 11/14/2012 8:09 PM, llennep@verizon.net wrote:

I tried these and had poor results. >>


By your own description Keith, NOT their fault <G> ! !
  
<< The plugs fouled in short order >>

DUH or should it be DOH ? ! ? !  LOL
Carbs state of 'tune'/condition, valves, rings and/or ANY combination thereof !
  
<< and the engine ran poorly. >>

I'll bet.  You can try BP6es and/or BP7es plugs.  I can never remember which is hotter/which is colder --- NGK 'marches to their own tune'.  But they ARE & HAVE BEEN absolute BEST plug I have used (in my cars and/or customers' cars) in past 30ish years ! ! !
  
<< However this could all be due to the condition of the engine --- it is old and tired with unknown miles on it. >>
  
/It's cold weather time --- REBUILD it./   If you can't, I can.  Shipping motors in common-place.

<< It does burn oil (but leaks very very little!) >>

They all do one or the other and sometimes (as in your case) both 
<VBG> ! ! !

Where are you located ? ? ?

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 15 18:33:14 2012
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Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2012 20:37:49 -0500
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hub bearing race install question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve,

I sprayed a bit of WD-40 to make the insides of the hubs slippery, and then
I just banged the races in. I didn't heat or cool anything.

There's a semi-circular cut-out on the inside of the hub that accommodates
a punch.  I alternated smacking the punch on each side and kept it going in
square.  It will take a few minutes, so just be patient and be careful.

good luck,
Tom


On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 2:17 PM, Steve B. Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>wrote:

> To install the front hub bearing races, I was going to heat the hubs in
> boiling water and freeze the races in my freezer.
>
> Is this the correct procedure - or am I risking breaking the races by
> freezing them in combo with boiling the hubs?
>
> Experience-based advice appreciated.
>
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Altadena, CA
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 11:44:57 2012
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References: <4a852.50496581.3ddb7a98@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 19:45:00 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Chucknsueo@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey involved in W. VA Accident
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thats the right attitude Chuck. At least I agree with You.

Gergo

2012/11/19 <Chucknsueo@aol.com>

> I saw Joe Spear at the AHSTC board meeting on Saturday and he spoke to
> Linda Cox.  She got some stitches at the hospital and was released.   Jim
> was
> uninjured, at least physically. If you google the accident you get  the
> newspaper articles and a law firm, so I am assuming that Jim and  Linda
> are doing
> the right thing and not talking about the accident to  anyone except their
> lawyer.  As of Thursday no charges have been  filed, which I take it to
> mean
> that it is likely there was a failure of the  car.  A blown tire at speed
> can certainly throw the car into another lane,  for example.  I agree,
> thoughts and prayers go to Jim and Linda and the  motorcyclists.  This is
> something that could happen to any one of us,  a mattter of being at the
> right place
> at exactly the wrong time.
>
> Chuck Ott
>
>
> In a message dated 11/19/2012 1:58:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> stevegar@verizon.net writes:
>
> Yes,  That is the same Jim Cox.  The accident took place in Sperryville
>  Va.
> While the curve is not that severe it is a blind curve as you come  around
> it. The speed limit is 45 mph through there.  Perhaps there was  some sort
> of
> failure with the car.  My prayers go out to all  involved.
>
>
> Steve Garrett
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:  healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On  Behalf Of Ron Mitchell
> Sent: Friday, November 16, 2012 5:52 PM
> To:  healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey involved in W. VA Accident
>
> I sent  this out at 10:26 AM
>
> I just receive this article from a  friend.
> http://tinyurl.com/affmlwq
>
>
> Does anyone know  if this is the same Jim Cox that owns a Florida Green
> BN6?
>
> Ron  MitchellBN6, BN7
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 12:17:23 2012
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 11:17:48 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3GipAMnmz45PVRTKq5S4ef8VqrGQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've been using Sta-Lube moly wheel bearing grease on both the splines and
the knockoffs. My knockoffs stick but the splines are fine.

>From this discussion, it sounds like the anti-sieze on the knockoff and keep
the wheel bearing grease on the splines.

 

Will give that a try and report back later.

 

BTW - to avoid the stains, remove the top from a Coke or Pepsi can and stick
it over the splines.

 

 

>>> 

Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 07:18:17 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=bspidell@comcast.net> >
To: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=sbyers@ec.rr.com> >
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=healeys@autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=50AA4DB9.30000@comcast.net> >

I use the same ol' moly grease I use for king pins, propshaft, etc.

Used to use anti-seize, but decided it didn't provide sufficient friction
reduction (the splines do rub, and need a good 
grease). Also, had too many shirts and pants with permanent, circular grease
stains (anti-seize doesn't come out in the 
wash).

Hint: if you do use an anti-seize, or even a 'regular' grease, spin the
knockoffs onto the hub whilst you work around 
them--the clothes you save may be your own.

Bob

 

 

--

Steve Gerow
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 12:44:44 2012
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From: Mark Schneider <mandmschneider@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 11:45:03 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Knock-off Grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Like the other responses, I use a good quality heavy high-temp bearing grease.
However, my contribution to this topic is a little different.  I wonder how
hard you are hammering the knock-off when installing the wheel back onto the
splined hub?  Is the difficulty due to the amount of hammering required to
remove the knockoff or is it the removal of the wheel itself?  Don't over
hammer when tightening the knock-off nut. I use one of the wooden knock-off
wrenches.  When I think the knockoff is snug.  I take note of the spoke
immediately behind the edge of the wrench.   Then I give the knock-off one
good solid Whack.  If the wrench rotates  I'll give it another hit.  The one
thing I will not do is to pound hard on the knock off.    One last little tip.
Empty 12 0z Starbucks paper coffee cups slide on to the splines perfectly.
They cover the entire greased area of the hub, stay there pretty well and make
a fine fashion statement as well.  Finally, they are throw aways when you put
the wheel back on.

Mark Schneider
'66 Healey BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 13:00:32 2012
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 20:00:36 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Mark Schneider <mandmschneider@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock-off Grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I pound the snot out of the knockoffs with a heavy lead hammer. No problems whatsoever with 100K+ miles on the same wheels. Don't know for a fact, but it's plausible putting the wheel hub under compression keeps the knockoffs from coming off. 

Maybe there's a difference between the fine and coarse threaded hubs (the later cars have coarse threaded hubs)? 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Like the other responses, I use a good quality heavy high-temp bearing grease. 
However, my contribution to this topic is a little different. I wonder how 
hard you are hammering the knock-off when installing the wheel back onto the 
splined hub? Is the difficulty due to the amount of hammering required to 
remove the knockoff or is it the removal of the wheel itself? Don't over 
hammer when tightening the knock-off nut. I use one of the wooden knock-off 
wrenches. When I think the knockoff is snug. I take note of the spoke 
immediately behind the edge of the wrench. Then I give the knock-off one 
good solid Whack. If the wrench rotates I'll give it another hit. The one 
thing I will not do is to pound hard on the knock off. One last little tip. 
Empty 12 0z Starbucks paper coffee cups slide on to the splines perfectly. 
They cover the entire greased area of the hub, stay there pretty well and make 
a fine fashion statement as well. Finally, they are throw aways when you put 
the wheel back on. 

Mark Schneider 
'66 Healey BJ8 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
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A friend recently had great difficulty removing two knock-offs. I don't think
he over tightened them & he definitely greased the threads as will as the
splines. They went on apparently normally. I am not sure what is wrong be
there must be some miss-match between the threads on the hubs & on the
knock-offs. The knock offs & the hubs were both repros, but tno necessarily
the same source. I agree, wheel bearing grease should be all that is
required.
Gary




-----Original Message-----
From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Nov 19, 2012 8:32 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease


I've never used anything but the same grease I use to lubricate the wheel
bearings and splines -- high-temp wheel bearing grease.  I've never
experienced knockoffs that were that hard to remove.  What is your procedure
for tightening them?  How frequently do you re-lubricate them?

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cylinder head.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Does anyone please know the overall length of the 3000 cylinder head? Thanks.
_______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 15:49:56 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I also smear grease on the conical surface of the wheel hub that the
knockoff tightens down on.  
It is not necessary to whale the tar out of the knockoffs when installing
them.  They are designed to tighten themselves as the car is driven, and you
can prove that they do by tightening the knockoff as much as you want, then
marking a "slip mark" on the knockoff and an adjacent spot on the hub with
paint or nail polish.  The marks will separate in a tightening direction as
you drive, even if you have hammered the knockoff on as tightly as you can.
 
My technique is to install the knockoff with the wheel off the ground,
tighten it until it feels snug and you don't see it move when you hit it
with the hammer (really heavy blows not required), and you're done.  I also
never hit the knockoff directly with any kind of hammer, but use a scrap
piece of wood between the knockoff and the hammer, and hit that instead.
This preserves the knockoff, but also the lead hammer.  My current wood tool
is a chunk of oak, which is pretty tough and doesn't splinter as quickly as
a 2 x 4, but wood is cheaper than either a knockoff or a new hammer.
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
 
From: warthodson@aol.com [mailto:warthodson@aol.com] 
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 3:27 PM
To: sbyers@ec.rr.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
 
A friend recently had great difficulty removing two knock-offs. I don't
think he over tightened them & he definitely greased the threads as will as
the splines. They went on apparently normally. I am not sure what is wrong
be there must be some miss-match between the threads on the hubs & on the
knock-offs. The knock offs & the hubs were both repros, but tno necessarily
the same source. I agree, wheel bearing grease should be all that is
required.
Gary
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 12:50:48 -0800
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I use anti seize.   Also take em off at least once a season.  A battle you do
not want to fight on the roadside.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 19, 2012, at 12:27 PM, warthodson@aol.com wrote:

> A friend recently had great difficulty removing two knock-offs. I don't
think
> he over tightened them & he definitely greased the threads as will as the
> splines. They went on apparently normally. I am not sure what is wrong be
> there must be some miss-match between the threads on the hubs & on the
> knock-offs. The knock offs & the hubs were both repros, but tno necessarily
> the same source. I agree, wheel bearing grease should be all that is
> required.
> Gary
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Nov 19, 2012 8:32 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
>
>
> I've never used anything but the same grease I use to lubricate the wheel
> bearings and splines -- high-temp wheel bearing grease.  I've never
> experienced knockoffs that were that hard to remove.  What is your
procedure
> for tightening them?  How frequently do you re-lubricate them?
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
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>
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 12:55:58 -0800 (PST)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Martyn=A0_Ridley?= <ridleymj@brant.net>, Ed Kesik
	<edkesik@gmail.com>, Ron & Helen Kielbiski <bugeye@sympatico.ca>, Brad
	Rawlings <bradlings@hotmail.com>, Ron Redshaw <rrredshaw@yahoo.ca>
Cc: Phil Jarrett <pgjarrett@me.com>, david.creer@senecac.on.ca,
	Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: [BritCarTalk] Frogeye Transit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This might be of interest to you guys.  Do pass the word around

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Mon, 11/19/12, manxking1949 <david.creer@senecac.on.ca> wrote:


From: manxking1949 <david.creer@senecac.on.ca>
Subject: [BritCarTalk] Frogeye Transit
To: BritCarTalk@yahoogroups.com
Received: Monday, November 19, 2012, 2:13 PM






I realize that there is only a slim chance of success on this,but I have the
"In-Transit" tag for a   frogeye/bugeye 5L37940.   If you own this car, I have
the Transit tag from Florida, in 1975.
Dave C
Richmond Hill, on
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 14:17:04 2012
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <50AA4DB9.30000@comcast.net>
	<1353357545.68025.YahooMailClassic@web29701.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 16:17:08 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3GliMbDOqXjStkT3Os4YkETgwlQQABHcSA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cylinder head.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, David -

Measuring a spare BJ8 head with a tape measure, I would say 28 inches (71.12
cm) maximum length, including the forward bulge of the thermostat housing
portion of the head.  26-1/8 inch (71.45 cm) for the length of the gasket
surface.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Lodge
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 3:39 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cylinder head.

Does anyone please know the overall length of the 3000 cylinder head?
Thanks.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 14:18:22 2012
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 16:18:58 -0500
From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
	Thunderbird/16.0.2
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20121118140658.15412.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<000a01cdc662$8b9ae010$a2d0a030$@rr.com>
	<8CF94AB6BBD90C9-183C-293C5@webmail-m074.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On my 66, also with both repro knock offs and hubs, I note that three 
come off and on easily, but one
seems to have a thread mismatch, which makes it somewhat harder to 
remove, but not really difficult.
Perhaps some recent repros are worse.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 11/19/2012 3:27 PM, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
> A friend recently had great difficulty removing two knock-offs. I don't think
> he over tightened them & he definitely greased the threads as will as the
> splines. They went on apparently normally. I am not sure what is wrong be
> there must be some miss-match between the threads on the hubs & on the
> knock-offs. The knock offs & the hubs were both repros, but tno necessarily
> the same source. I agree, wheel bearing grease should be all that is
> required.
> Gary
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Nov 19, 2012 8:32 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
>
>
> I've never used anything but the same grease I use to lubricate the wheel
> bearings and splines -- high-temp wheel bearing grease.  I've never
> experienced knockoffs that were that hard to remove.  What is your procedure
> for tightening them?  How frequently do you re-lubricate them?
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman@htcnet.org
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 14:25:20 2012
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 21:23:56 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I seem to recall a spate of poorly-machined hubs a while ago; though, why a knockoff would go on easy then refuse to come off is mysterious. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----

On my 66, also with both repro knock offs and hubs, I note that three 
come off and on easily, but one 
seems to have a thread mismatch, which makes it somewhat harder to 
remove, but not really difficult. 
Perhaps some recent repros are worse. 

John 
64/66 BJ8s 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 14:26:09 2012
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'Austin Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1353358558.26245.YahooMailClassic@web162606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 16:25:21 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3GmLxLifRx1PxpQAipF0I4UGKnKgAArNgQ
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: dr.moses@verizon.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: [BritCarTalk] Frogeye Transit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

David, Rick Moses is the long-time keeper of the Sprite registry:
dr.moses@verizon.net.  You might check with him to see if he has a record of
the car.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of J. Scott Morris
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 3:56 PM
To: Martyn  Ridley; Ed Kesik; Ron & Helen Kielbiski; Brad Rawlings; Ron
Redshaw
Cc: Phil Jarrett; david.creer@senecac.on.ca; Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: [BritCarTalk] Frogeye Transit

This might be of interest to you guys.  Do pass the word around

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Mon, 11/19/12, manxking1949 <david.creer@senecac.on.ca> wrote:


From: manxking1949 <david.creer@senecac.on.ca>
Subject: [BritCarTalk] Frogeye Transit
To: BritCarTalk@yahoogroups.com
Received: Monday, November 19, 2012, 2:13 PM

I realize that there is only a slim chance of success on this,but I have the
"In-Transit" tag for a   frogeye/bugeye 5L37940.   If you own this car, I
have
the Transit tag from Florida, in 1975.
Dave C
Richmond Hill, on
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 14:29:35 2012
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	Mon, 19 Nov 2012 15:26:58 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'BJ8 Healeys'" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20121118140658.15412.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<000a01cdc662$8b9ae010$a2d0a030$@rr.com>
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 16:26:53 -0500
Thread-index: AQI/yJCAW2DIVyK1zyvDCnDksZrMMAF1sgOuAVDZ2EACOPGNJ5blq5VQ
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There are two articles on the Technical page, Safety section at the bottom
of that section. One is an article that explains why knockoffs self-tighten
by design and the second is the original drawing for the patent.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 3:50 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease

I also smear grease on the conical surface of the wheel hub that the
knockoff tightens down on.  
It is not necessary to whale the tar out of the knockoffs when installing
them.  They are designed to tighten themselves as the car is driven, and you
can prove that they do by tightening the knockoff as much as you want, then
marking a "slip mark" on the knockoff and an adjacent spot on the hub with
paint or nail polish.  The marks will separate in a tightening direction as
you drive, even if you have hammered the knockoff on as tightly as you can.
 
My technique is to install the knockoff with the wheel off the ground,
tighten it until it feels snug and you don't see it move when you hit it
with the hammer (really heavy blows not required), and you're done.  I also
never hit the knockoff directly with any kind of hammer, but use a scrap
piece of wood between the knockoff and the hammer, and hit that instead.
This preserves the knockoff, but also the lead hammer.  My current wood tool
is a chunk of oak, which is pretty tough and doesn't splinter as quickly as
a 2 x 4, but wood is cheaper than either a knockoff or a new hammer.
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 14:41:23 2012
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "'John Vrugtman'"
	<javrugtman@htcnet.org>
References: <50AAA242.8040206@htcnet.org>
	<487692001.337578.1353360236464.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 16:41:10 -0500
Thread-index: AQFm1jrUPwCGyBxhu4QyQLsKeVeWYZi/kHqg
Content-language: en-us
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Somewhere in the dark recesses of my mind, I seem to recall that there are
two different thread pitches on the knockoffs dependent upon the year of the
car.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 4:24 PM
To: John Vrugtman
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease

I seem to recall a spate of poorly-machined hubs a while ago; though, why a
knockoff would go on easy then refuse to come off is mysterious. 

Bob 


--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----

On my 66, also with both repro knock offs and hubs, I note that three come
off and on easily, but one seems to have a thread mismatch, which makes it
somewhat harder to remove, but not really difficult. 
Perhaps some recent repros are worse. 

John
64/66 BJ8s
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 15:14:48 2012
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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Thread "count", John <G> ! 8tpi (coarse) BJ-8s & 12 tpi (fine) 
everything else including Spridgets <G>) !

Ed
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 15:28:39 2012
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From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 06:27:40 +0800
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota caliper pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Seems to me if you did this mod you'd want a larger bore master and a higher
boost servo to balance out the stopping power and safety margins on the pedal
travel.  Otherwise looks like a compelling yet simple upgrade.  I'm sure if
you put some green stuff on there you'd get even better stopping responses.

Alan

On Nov 19, 2012, at 10:42 PM, "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
wrote:

> I became interested in this project through this article:
>
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-conversion.shtml
>
> I ordered the calipers off Amazon:
> Raybestos FRC3465 and FRC3466. Price approximately $47 each.
>
> These calipers seem to be very common.
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
>
>
>
>> -------Original Message-------
>> From: 'bluehealey' <bluehealey@gmail.com>
>> To: Steve B. Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
>> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota caliper pictures
>> Sent: Nov 19 '12 06:13
>>
>> Can you advise what model the calipers come from and what the piston
diameters are?
>> Nice modification. Seems to fit well enough.
>>
>> AlanB - iPhone message.
>>
>> On 18 Nov 2012, at 00:02, "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm in the process of installing late BJ8 front discs on my BN6.
>>>
>>> Did a mockup today to check clearance in my drum-brake 72-spokers. Pix:
>>> http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_discs
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Steve Gerow
>>> Altadena, CA
>>> BN6
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 15:44:13 2012
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 23:44:24 +0100
From: Bob <jagxk120@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.8; rv:16.0)
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To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Car cover
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Listers,
I'm looking for a car cover with an AH logo for a 3000.
Does anyone know where I can get that?
TIA
B
HBT7L244
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 16:13:41 2012
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Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 10:08:04 +1100
From: "Chris Dimmock [Healey]" <austin.healey@gmail.com>
To: Just Brits Shop <shop@justbrits.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The other point I'd add is that you grease the conical surfaces lightly
(just a light smear), the hub threads, and the wheel splines. you dont
grease the HUB splines.
Try it.
Wipe everything dry, then grease the hub splines and then push the dry
wheel on. Where does all the grease end up - thats right, pushed to the
back of the hub, waiting to heat up and spray on your inner wheel area &
brakes.
Now wipe everything down, and this time, grease the WHEEL splines,
liberallly, now push the wheel on.....
Where did the excess grease end up???
On the threaded end of the hub, where you can just wipe off the excess....
Grease the wheel splines, not the hub splines, and a light wipe on the
conical surfaces, and the threads of the hub & spinner.
Best
Chris
 On Nov 20, 2012 9:15 AM, Just Brits " Shop" <shop@justbrits.com> wrote:

> Thread "count", John <G> ! 8tpi (coarse) BJ-8s & 12 tpi (fine)
> everything else including Spridgets <G>) !
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 16:21:51 2012
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	Mon, 19 Nov 2012 17:21:42 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'\" Just Brits \" Shop'" <shop@justbrits.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <50AAA242.8040206@htcnet.org>
	<487692001.337578.1353360236464.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 18:21:37 -0500
Thread-index: AQJ3xmGJrstjpobHUFkK55f6EpAJfgFm1jrUAlIDSMsDKoNVMpZmsWMA
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, I knew that there was two of something. At least, we may now know what
might have happened for three to be OK and one not OK.

John 


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of " Just Brits " Shop
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 5:15 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease

Thread "count", John <G> ! 8tpi (coarse) BJ-8s & 12 tpi (fine) everything
else including Spridgets <G>) !

Ed
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 17:54:32 2012
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>, "'\" Just Brits \" Shop'"
	<shop@justbrits.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <50AAA242.8040206@htcnet.org><487692001.337578.1353360236464.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><003801cdc69e$97ab49d0$c701dd70$@verizon.net><50AAAF74.7070909@justbrits.com>
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 18:31:52 -0600
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have first used moly grease then switched to anti-sieze, my observtions:

1.  I went to the anti-sieze because it didn't tend to leach out onto the 
spokes on long hot trips and make a mess like the grease did.

2.  I have always whacked my knock-offs on pretty hard, not to start that 
discussion again, but will say I never had any trouble getting the wheel off 
(or knock off) with either grease or anti-seize, did have trouble when I 
first bought cars and they had not had the wheels off for a long time and or 
some sort of lubricant/protectant had not been used.

3.  What's the secret to getting grease stains out of your t-shirts?, I get 
rings that won't come out from either one. I can get out oil stains if the 
oil wasn't to dirty to start with, but whatever I have had on the splines 
was always pretty much permanent.

Greg Lemon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 18:23:20 2012
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 17:15:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>, ' Just Brits Shop'
	<shop@justbrits.com>, healeys@autox.team.net, Greg Lemon
	<glemon@neb.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

As far as grease stains go, I can't recommend anything for your clothes, but
if you know someone that works on the railroad, there is a pink hand soap that
is used by the diesel mechanics and a small packet is included in the "Crew
Pak" that is provided to the crews (me) along with napkins, alcohol wipes, a
band aid and an a** gasket for the toilet seat on  our engines.  The hand soap
cleans hands with grease, oil etc like nothing I have ever seen, but it works
great on clothes just before you throw them in the washer.  I have had jeans
with five year old stains that relegated them to just working on the car that
this stuff took out easily.  Not easily obtained by regular folks, but right
now we are hiring three new conductor classes (about 30 individuals)...
Mike MacLean
BNSF Railway engineer
BN2
AN5
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 18:56:21 2012
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Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 17:40:06 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
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To: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>
References: <50AAA242.8040206@htcnet.org><487692001.337578.1353360236464.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><003801cdc69e$97ab49d0$c701dd70$@verizon.net><50AAAF74.7070909@justbrits.com>
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	<B96C50A0024846A2B30E19EA1B87FFC7@GregPC>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net, "'\" Just Brits \" Shop'" <shop@justbrits.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

re: "I went to the anti-sieze because it didn't tend to leach out onto the spokes on long hot trips and make a mess like 
the grease did."

Trick I learned somewhere: Put a film of silicone RTV on the inside of the hubs where the spokes are anchored--no more 
grease oozing out.

I've tried everything to get the grease out; no luck (esp. with anti-seize).

Bob


On 11/19/2012 4:31 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:
> I have first used moly grease then switched to anti-sieze, my observtions:
>
> 1.  I went to the anti-sieze because it didn't tend to leach out onto the spokes on long hot trips and make a mess 
> like the grease did.
>
> 2.  I have always whacked my knock-offs on pretty hard, not to start that discussion again, but will say I never had 
> any trouble getting the wheel off (or knock off) with either grease or anti-seize, did have trouble when I first 
> bought cars and they had not had the wheels off for a long time and or some sort of lubricant/protectant had not been 
> used.
>
> 3.  What's the secret to getting grease stains out of your t-shirts?, I get rings that won't come out from either one. 
> I can get out oil stains if the oil wasn't to dirty to start with, but whatever I have had on the splines was always 
> pretty much permanent.
>
> Greg Lemon
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<003f01cdc6ac$9ff090b0$dfd1b210$@verizon.net>
	<B96C50A0024846A2B30E19EA1B87FFC7@GregPC>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 19:52:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
To: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>, "'\"
	Just Brits \" Shop'" <shop@justbrits.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I use GoJo.  I've had success with it as long as you do it before washing and
drying.  Once it goes through a wash cycle forget it.  I usually take an old
tooth brush and work the GoJo into the stain.  Then rinse it in the sink using
cold water.  If it isn't all out then repeat until the grease stain is gone. 
Works for me.

Ron Mitchell
BN6 
BN7




________________________________
From: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>; "'"
Just Brits " Shop'" <shop@justbrits.com>; healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Monday, November 19, 2012 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
 
I
have first used moly grease then switched to anti-sieze, my observtions:

1. 
I went to the anti-sieze because it didn't tend to leach out onto the spokes
on long hot trips and make a mess like the grease did.

2.  I have always
whacked my knock-offs on pretty hard, not to start that discussion again, but
will say I never had any trouble getting the wheel off (or knock off) with
either grease or anti-seize, did have trouble when I first bought cars and
they had not had the wheels off for a long time and or some sort of
lubricant/protectant had not been used.

3.  What's the secret to getting
grease stains out of your t-shirts?, I get rings that won't come out from
either one. I can get out oil stains if the oil wasn't to dirty to start with,
but whatever I have had on the splines was always pretty much permanent.

Greg
Lemon
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 22:59:21 2012
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <50AAA242.8040206@htcnet.org><487692001.337578.1353360236464.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><003801cdc69e$97ab49d0$c701dd70$@verizon.net><50AAAF74.7070909@justbrits.com>
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Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 00:43:41 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3Gwn+UFJpQ2cT8TBKF0tsS3MpxOgAC7BOA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

After thoroughly cleaning and degreasing the inside surface of the wheel hub
(outboard of the splines), I tried using silicone sealant to seal the spoke
heads.  But the grease turned the sealant into a sticky, messy jelly that
was very difficult to remove again.  I changed to 3M automotive body sealant
and that has worked fine for several years now.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 8:40 PM
To: Greg Lemon
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; '" Just Brits " Shop'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off grease

re: "I went to the anti-sieze because it didn't tend to leach out onto the
spokes on long hot trips and make a mess like the grease did."

Trick I learned somewhere: Put a film of silicone RTV on the inside of the
hubs where the spokes are anchored--no more grease oozing out.

I've tried everything to get the grease out; no luck (esp. with anti-seize).

Bob
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 20 00:31:08 2012
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greg, someone told me years ago about silicone in the wheel hub to keep the spokes from getting grease on them.  i clean the wheel hub very good then use clear silicone to coat all the spoke heads, front and rear.  let set for a while then coat lightly with grease or anti-sieze, your choice.  keeps the grease from being slung out onto the spokes.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 20 00:51:46 2012
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Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 07:18:45 +0000
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my mother used to make her own lye soap, which did a pretty good job of getting grease out of my dad's overalls.  not sure if you can even buy it anywhere, but it was pretty poweful stuff.  of course, she used an old wringer washer also and let them thrash around in there quite a while.
_______________________________________________
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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] spokes
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 11/20/2012 1:14 AM, healeymanjim@hansencc.net wrote:

<snip>

clean the wheel hub very good then use clear silicone to coat all the spoke heads, front and rear. >>


And if you do the "wheel using proper 3M stuff" you have a "tubeless" wheel <G>.

<< let set for a while then coat lightly with grease or anti-sieze, your choice. >>

The Siliconed 'heads', Jim ??  WHY ??

<snip>
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 20 07:59:06 2012
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Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 06:59:12 -0800
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To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Frogeye value
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Are Frogeye's going up?

http://www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=1043

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 20 08:03:55 2012
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From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 15:04:28 -0000
	cv=GaEGOwq9FwezmTggA+b6yC6zDZF2HYaK6RN/tSqdnVA= c=1 sm=0
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Subject: [Healeys] Moray Motor Museum
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi everyone, I came across the following Museum earlier today. Some very nice
clips of a 100S at Goodwood under the Video links

http://www.moraymotormuseum.org/home.html

Enjoy

Tom
1965 AH3000 MKIII BJ8
1960 MGA
1988 Mini Park LAne
_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 07:52:56 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frogeye value
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A solid frogeye is a rarity in the UK.  I was amazed 30 yrs ago at some of the
basket cases they were restoring doing huge amounts of metalwork on cars that
would have been junked over here.  I can see how one with good floors like
this would fetch a premium there.  Big Healey owners who have never driven a
bugeye/frogeye owe themselves a drive.  After all, it was DMH's favorite car. 
:-).  (Full disclosure:  A bugeye was my first car in 1967 and I've owned my
present one since 1977.


 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty
Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
To: healeylist
<healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2012 9:59 AM
Subject:
[Healeys] Frogeye value
 
Are Frogeye's going up?
http://www.kentcarcollection.com/info.php?id=1043

--
*******************************************************************
Bob
Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 20 09:44:55 2012
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From: "Ron Ray" <ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'HealeyRick'" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>, "'Bob Spidell'"
	<bspidell@comcast.net>, "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <50AB9AC0.2080102@comcast.net>
	<1353426776.58700.YahooMailNeo@web124703.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 10:42:25 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac3HOBK76qiie+rbQwyJHEJkutBn5wABP7FQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frogeye value
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
 
I couldn't agree more about the big Healey folks needing to experience
driving a Bugeye.  It is the second most fun car I have ever driven, behind
an original Austin Mini Cooper S which a friend of mine had when we were in
college.  I have a Bugeye that has been sitting in my garage for  4 years
waiting for the time and money to restore it. I have owned my 1959 AH 3000
for over 41 years but I can't wait to experience a Bugeye once again.
 
  Ron
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2012 9:53 AM
To: Bob Spidell; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frogeye value
 
A solid frogeye is a rarity in the UK.  I was amazed 30 yrs ago at some of
the basket cases they were restoring doing huge amounts of metalwork on cars
that would have been junked over here.  I can see how one with good floors
like this would fetch a premium there.  Big Healey owners who have never
driven a bugeye/frogeye owe themselves a drive.  After all, it was DMH's
favorite car. 
:-).  (Full disclosure:  A bugeye was my first car in 1967 and I've owned my
present one since 1977.
 
 
Rick
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 20 18:57:39 2012
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References: <8FE0F2064E2A49D182A8E71BAFC60808@TomVistaPC>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 20:52:40 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd
  <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moray Motor Museum
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Man, that was fun!

Bob Johnson

On Tue, Nov 20, 2012 at 10:04 AM, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd <
enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk> wrote:

> Hi everyone, I came across the following Museum earlier today. Some very
> nice
> clips of a 100S at Goodwood under the Video links
>
> http://www.moraymotormuseum.org/home.html
>
> Enjoy
>
> Tom
> 1965 AH3000 MKIII BJ8
> 1960 MGA
> 1988 Mini Park LAne
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bjsbj8@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 20 20:21:58 2012
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <50AB9AC0.2080102@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:04:24 -0600
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frogeye value
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My brother bought a bugeye looking somewhat similar to this a couple years 
ago, in this case from the original owner, in storage since the early 70s, 
ran when parked, solid floors and rockers, couple bubbles on the rear 
wheelarches.  All there and very original (except a period Ansa or Stebro 
(can't remember) exhaust.  He bought it for his son and they are restoring 
it together.  Pretty cool deal all around.

He paid $2000 or maybe a couple hundred more, but a totally different type 
of sale, word of mouth, other side of the pond, private party sale.

It seems like the collector car business is hot right now, e-bay and the 
televised auctions on cable all the time, giving collector cars more 
exposure and making them easier to find and the coming of age of the car 
crazy boomers with disposable income despite a somewhat stagnant economy 
have something to do with it in my guestimation.

So I think the market in general is going up, especially some of the cars 
that didn't climb so fast in the mid to later part of the 2000s, TRs and 
MGs, and Sprites (vs. the Jags and Big Healeys that did).  The oddball stuff 
like Jensen Healeys, early Fiat and Datsun roadsters and Daimler SP250s and 
whatnot  seem like they are on the rise too.

But then again there are always deals to be had if you are in the right 
place at the right time.

Greg Lemon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 20 21:59:26 2012
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Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2012 22:27:55 -0600
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: 4 - Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
	{sentby:smtp auth 24.15.13.164 authed with sales@justbrits.com}
Subject: [Healeys] Barn Found ! <sigh> ! ! !
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Get a serious peek at the very FIRST one shown (Keith, Charlie, Tom, 
etal) ! !

http://www.barnfinds.com/

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 21 00:12:27 2012
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Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 07:43:53 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Peter Farmer hardtops?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Whats Your opinion about Peter Farmer's hardtops? I am looking for one to
suit a BN4.

Gergo
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 21 07:52:43 2012
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 10:41:17 -0400
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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	d7B2ATzhQyxIA==
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 prices soaring??????
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got one I'll sell for less than 10% of this one!!!!  :-)

ebay # 130805642913

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-MKIII-Extreme-Original
-Driver-Gold-Award-Prepared-/130805642913?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item1e749fb6
a1#ht_500wt_1182

Randy
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 21 08:11:17 2012
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Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 07:11:32 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
	Thunderbird/16.0.2
To: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
References: <C4D8B655-F6B2-42FA-A099-71D14AC034CF@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 prices soaring??????
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 From the seller:

"The sole purpose of this listing is to post photo's that weren't included in my other listing for the same car. I put 
the opening bid at $1,000,000, so all bidding will take place on that other listing."


OTOH, I hope he gets his million.

Bob



On 11/21/2012 6:41 AM, Randy Hicks wrote:
> I've got one I'll sell for less than 10% of this one!!!!  :-)
>
> ebay # 130805642913
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-MKIII-Extreme-Original
> -Driver-Gold-Award-Prepared-/130805642913?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item1e749fb6
> a1#ht_500wt_1182
>
> Randy
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 21 08:55:12 2012
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	Nov 2012 15:46:34 +0000
From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <C4D8B655-F6B2-42FA-A099-71D14AC034CF@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 10:46:33 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3H+AmSFX/zYL2yTNm7/hp44KvjSQABq57Q
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 prices soaring??????
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The car was offered on eBay out of Maine in November 2010, at considerably
less than a million bucks.  At that time, it looked like it had been pulled
out of long-time storage.  Curiously for a car as late as 40075 and
supposedly untouched since new until the current seller acquired it, it had
an early Phase 2 front shroud instead of the late Phase 2 dual-light shroud
it has now. 

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA  

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randy Hicks
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 9:41 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 prices soaring??????

I've got one I'll sell for less than 10% of this one!!!!  :-)

ebay # 130805642913

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-MKIII-Extreme-Origina
l
-Driver-Gold-Award-Prepared-/130805642913?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item1e749fb
6
a1#ht_500wt_1182

Randy
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 21 12:29:10 2012
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	<001e01cdc7ff$6207aaf0$261700d0$@rr.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 11:21:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
To: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 prices soaring??????
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here is the actual bidding eBay auction:

http://tinyurl.com/b75endk 

There
are now 41 bids with $45,101.00 currently the high bid.


Ron Mitchell
BN6, 
BN7 MkII


________________________________
 From: BJ8 Healeys
<sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Wednesday, November 21, 2012 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 prices
soaring??????
 
The car was offered on eBay out of Maine in November 2010, at
considerably
less than a million bucks.  At that time, it looked like it had
been pulled
out of long-time storage.  Curiously for a car as late as 40075
and
supposedly untouched since new until the current seller acquired it, it
had
an early Phase 2 front shroud instead of the late Phase 2 dual-light
shroud
it has now. 

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 21 12:31:01 2012
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Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 11:29:54 -0800
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frogeye value
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,

Frogeye's are going up in price big time.  A descent car will cost you
north of $10K and possibly double that for one that's well sorted.  John
Hardy and I just helped one of the camera guys from "Car Crazy" (they
filmed our California Healey Week at Big Bear) buy a Bugeye. You can get a
cheaper one but expect to do a lot of work to make it run reliably.

Both my wife and I had Sprites as our first cars.  Our current Bugeye is a
55K very original mile survivor that while it smokes a bit, still has 75
psi oil press on start up, and all of its original parts to include the
rubber floor mats in lieu of carpet.

Cheers,

Curt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)



On Tue, Nov 20, 2012 at 7:04 PM, Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:

> My brother bought a bugeye looking somewhat similar to this a couple years
> ago, in this case from the original owner, in storage since the early 70s,
> ran when parked, solid floors and rockers, couple bubbles on the rear
> wheelarches.  All there and very original (except a period Ansa or Stebro
> (can't remember) exhaust.  He bought it for his son and they are restoring
> it together.  Pretty cool deal all around.
>
> He paid $2000 or maybe a couple hundred more, but a totally different type
> of sale, word of mouth, other side of the pond, private party sale.
>
> It seems like the collector car business is hot right now, e-bay and the
> televised auctions on cable all the time, giving collector cars more
> exposure and making them easier to find and the coming of age of the car
> crazy boomers with disposable income despite a somewhat stagnant economy
> have something to do with it in my guestimation.
>
> So I think the market in general is going up, especially some of the cars
> that didn't climb so fast in the mid to later part of the 2000s, TRs and
> MGs, and Sprites (vs. the Jags and Big Healeys that did).  The oddball
> stuff like Jensen Healeys, early Fiat and Datsun roadsters and Daimler
> SP250s and whatnot  seem like they are on the rise too.
>
> But then again there are always deals to be had if you are in the right
> place at the right time.
>
> Greg Lemon
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 21 12:43:56 2012
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From: "Team.net" <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
To: "'Ron Mitchell'" <healeyron@yahoo.com>, "'Healey List'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <C4D8B655-F6B2-42FA-A099-71D14AC034CF@gmail.com>
	<001e01cdc7ff$6207aaf0$261700d0$@rr.com>
	<1353525674.23062.YahooMailNeo@web121802.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 14:42:23 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3IHrS1MrIBC+MeTaiSEDVKO9MohwAAZVgg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 prices soaring??????
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Looks like green, not black, to me.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 2:21 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 prices soaring??????

Here is the actual bidding eBay auction:

http://tinyurl.com/b75endk 

There
are now 41 bids with $45,101.00 currently the high bid.


Ron Mitchell
BN6, 
BN7 MkII


________________________________
 From: BJ8 Healeys
<sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Wednesday, November 21, 2012 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 prices
soaring??????
 
The car was offered on eBay out of Maine in November 2010, at
considerably
less than a million bucks.  At that time, it looked like it had
been pulled
out of long-time storage.  Curiously for a car as late as 40075
and
supposedly untouched since new until the current seller acquired it, it
had
an early Phase 2 front shroud instead of the late Phase 2 dual-light
shroud
it has now. 

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 21 14:47:17 2012
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frogeye value
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On 11/21/2012 1:29 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote:

<< Our current Bugeye is a 55K very original mile survivor that while 
it smokes a bit, still has 75 psi
oil press on start up, and all of its original parts to include the 
rubber floor mats in lieu of carpet. >>

And hopefully in my LIFETIME <G><F> Nancy will DEMAND that you restore 
it painting in it's VERY
RARE Original Nevada Beige colour, Curt ! ? ! ? ! ?

Anon
(RE-stirring the pot ?)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 21 17:40:55 2012
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From: "Norman" <norman.hendry@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 17:17:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Moray Motor Museum
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Had the pleasure of visiting this museum and spending the better part of the
day speaking with the curator, head mechanic and one of the owners of several
of the cars that are on display during my UK vacation in May.

IMHO, Well worth visiting if you are in the area as the cars are great and the
staff are welcoming and really friendly

Norman
59BN7
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 21 19:29:43 2012
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From: "Norman" <norman.hendry@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 19:04:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Peter Farmer Hardtops
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gergo... During my trip to the UK in May I spent 2 days meeting with Pete, his
lovely wife Nicky and business partner Mike.

During this time Pete showed me many of the "tweaks" that he makes to the
Healey's that he builds for racing and also maintains on a regular basis.

The purpose of my visit was to see one of his hardtops and inspect the build
quality, fit and finish. Suffice to say that I was suitably impressed (not an
easy thing according to my wife) and I placed an order for one with the
additional roof vent and also bought some other parts for my car.

The packaging, customs paperwork and delivery of the roof was faultless and it
will be with my painter within a few weeks.

Norman
59BN7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 21 21:16:18 2012
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From: <gturl@sympatico.ca>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 03:55:07 +0000
References: <BAY172-W16102299F97F534CBE47B1C95B0@phx.gbl>
	FILETIME=[29B6F280:01CDC865]
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Speedometer removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We are trying to remove the speedometer from our BJ8, but the trip odometer
reset knob seems to be in the way. There appears to be a pin joining the knob
and the shaft going into thspeedometer itself. Does this pin need to come out
and if so, is there a trick to removing it? Any advice will be appreciated.



Geoff and Carol
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 21 22:16:53 2012
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Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 20:51:45 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: gturl@sympatico.ca
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	<BAY172-W1DFAC3DC7BD70327B8586C95B0@phx.gbl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Speedometer removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Geoff,

I've taken the speedometer out of my BJ8 many times and never had to remove the tripmeter reset knob.  It's just a 
matter of tilting it at a certain angle then pulling it out through the dash.  If necessary, push the tripmeter shaft up 
while tilting it.

I wouldn't attempt removing the pin while the speedo is in the car.  It's a tiny roll pin, and should be removed--only 
if necessary--very carefully on the bench with a suitably sized drift.  If you lose it I doubt you'll find a replacement.

Bob



On 11/21/2012 7:55 PM, gturl@sympatico.ca wrote:
> We are trying to remove the speedometer from our BJ8, but the trip odometer
> reset knob seems to be in the way. There appears to be a pin joining the knob
> and the shaft going into thspeedometer itself. Does this pin need to come out
> and if so, is there a trick to removing it? Any advice will be appreciated.
>
>
>
> Geoff and Carol
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 22 00:02:39 2012
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References: <99691B4430074B098861FA7049257282@Normans>
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 07:32:47 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Norman <norman.hendry@shaw.ca>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Peter Farmer Hardtops
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the information Norman.

Gergo

2012/11/22 Norman <norman.hendry@shaw.ca>

> Gergo... During my trip to the UK in May I spent 2 days meeting with Pete,
> his
> lovely wife Nicky and business partner Mike.
>
> During this time Pete showed me many of the "tweaks" that he makes to the
> Healey's that he builds for racing and also maintains on a regular basis.
>
> The purpose of my visit was to see one of his hardtops and inspect the
> build
> quality, fit and finish. Suffice to say that I was suitably impressed (not
> an
> easy thing according to my wife) and I placed an order for one with the
> additional roof vent and also bought some other parts for my car.
>
> The packaging, customs paperwork and delivery of the roof was faultless
> and it
> will be with my painter within a few weeks.
>
> Norman
> 59BN7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 22 08:01:05 2012
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From: "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
To: "'Curtis Arndt'" <cnaarndt@gmail.com>, "'Greg Lemon'" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
References: <50AB9AC0.2080102@comcast.net>
	<0591403AB43C48C0ADBC3D5F8BCCAC21@GregPC>
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Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frogeye value
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Curt, thanks for letting us know about the camera person from Car Crazy
purchasing a Bugeye.  I've been told that Barry said the CHW filming was the
most fun of any of the Car Crazy episodes they've done.  Nice to know the
people of the Austin Healey Association of Southern California represented
ourselves and our favored marque well.

Bruce Steele, 
Immediate Past President, AHASC
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Curtis Arndt
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 11:30 AM
To: Greg Lemon
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Frogeye value

Listers,

Frogeye's are going up in price big time.  A descent car will cost you north
of $10K and possibly double that for one that's well sorted.  John Hardy and
I just helped one of the camera guys from "Car Crazy" (they filmed our
California Healey Week at Big Bear) buy a Bugeye. You can get a cheaper one
but expect to do a lot of work to make it run reliably.

Both my wife and I had Sprites as our first cars.  Our current Bugeye is a
55K very original mile survivor that while it smokes a bit, still has 75 psi
oil press on start up, and all of its original parts to include the rubber
floor mats in lieu of carpet.

Cheers,

Curt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 22 08:31:14 2012
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Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 10:27:29 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [Healeys] Coolent leak advice--BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

65 P2, BJ8.

week ago--developed coolent leak-----not from hoses.

this week---jacked car up--pulled the water pump and all hoses.

WP gasket was a "cement" mess---took quite a while to scrape it off-------cleaned VERY good--Both surfaces---added new gasket and a thin layer of Hylomar (blue).

Reassembled-------all bolts ver snug----checked for tightness several times.

STILL a pretty good coolent leak-----can't tell exactly where it is coming from---can't see well enough---but it is from the area under the water pump.  rechecked all bolts--all very tight.

Before I tear evcerythig down again----question

Q-----Can the WP itself leak---if so from where---other than around the gasket seal?

WP does not make any noises and is very smooth.

???????  Any ideas what else to do?

Thanks
tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 22 08:51:10 2012
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Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 16:50:27 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20121122102729.FGKV1.103139.root@pamxwww07-z01>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak advice--BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom
Yes, the water pump itself can leak. There is a seal inside it, you can 
not see it even if you remove the pump. You have to take the pump apart 
to see it. There's a graphite surface that seals against the impeller. 
That can leak, if you're lucky it will seal itself. But probably not.
If you have a BJ8, Michael Salter have the bits you need to repair it.

Per in Sweden

Tom Felts skrev 2012-11-22 16:27:

> Before I tear evcerythig down again----question
>
> Q-----Can the WP itself leak---if so from where---other than around the gasket seal?
>
> WP does not make any noises and is very smooth.
>
> ???????  Any ideas what else to do?
>
> Thanks
> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 22 09:47:47 2012
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 11:45:25 -0500 (EST)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20110426; t=1353602725;
	bh=gdqoToeUU+pjEGWkMZ0h3Uy+3h+teaWUmUT+PYTC/TU=;
	h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type;
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Subject: [Healeys] John Fitch Photos
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Just got this from a weekly Sports Car email, some great photographs, 90 in 
 all, of John Fitch. Enjoy and for all you folks out there, Happy 
Thanksgiving,  U.S. or not, I'm very thankful for all this list gives! 
    Enjoy the photos.
_http://www.sportscardigest.com/john-fitch-a-pictorial-remembrance/?awt_l=Fx
EJY&awt_m=JNZbn.yC7us.C0_ 
(http://www.sportscardigest.com/john-fitch-a-pictorial-remembrance/?awt_l=FxEJY&awt_m=JNZbn.yC7us.C0) 
 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 22 09:51:35 2012
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	Nov 2012 16:48:48 +0000
From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'Tom Felts'" <tomfelts@windstream.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20121122102729.FGKV1.103139.root@pamxwww07-z01>
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 11:48:42 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3IxovpCPSY0V+1S5O9TkNFxHWghAACUFyw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak advice--BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom, water pumps typically have a "weep hole" that leaks as an indicator
that the pump seals are worn and that the pump needs to be rebuilt or
replaced.  The attached photo shows the BJ8 pump weep hole.  Your pump is
probably leaking there, but if it isn't, your leak isn't from the pump
itself.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2012 10:27 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Coolent leak advice--BJ8

65 P2, BJ8.

week ago--developed coolent leak-----not from hoses.

this week---jacked car up--pulled the water pump and all hoses.

WP gasket was a "cement" mess---took quite a while to scrape it
off-------cleaned VERY good--Both surfaces---added new gasket and a thin
layer of Hylomar (blue).

Reassembled-------all bolts ver snug----checked for tightness several times.

STILL a pretty good coolent leak-----can't tell exactly where it is coming
from---can't see well enough---but it is from the area under the water pump.
rechecked all bolts--all very tight.

Before I tear evcerythig down again----question

Q-----Can the WP itself leak---if so from where---other than around the
gasket seal?

WP does not make any noises and is very smooth.

???????  Any ideas what else to do?

Thanks
tom

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Water pump weep hole.jpg]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 22 10:19:20 2012
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Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 12:13:44 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak advice--BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My thanks to all who responded-----I really appreciate your advice.

tom
---- Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote: 

=============
65 P2, BJ8.

week ago--developed coolent leak-----not from hoses.

this week---jacked car up--pulled the water pump and all hoses.

WP gasket was a "cement" mess---took quite a while to scrape it off-------cleaned VERY good--Both surfaces---added new gasket and a thin layer of Hylomar (blue).

Reassembled-------all bolts ver snug----checked for tightness several times.

STILL a pretty good coolent leak-----can't tell exactly where it is coming from---can't see well enough---but it is from the area under the water pump.  rechecked all bolts--all very tight.

Before I tear evcerythig down again----question

Q-----Can the WP itself leak---if so from where---other than around the gasket seal?

WP does not make any noises and is very smooth.

???????  Any ideas what else to do?

Thanks
tom
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] .[.Healeys] Coolent leak advice--BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 11/22/2012 10:48 AM, BJ8 Healeys wrote:

The attached photo shows the BJ8 pump weep hole. >>

Plz send ! !

Tnx, Steve !

[STILL feeling like an IDIOT ref middle BJ08], Ed
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 22 10:54:22 2012
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References: <20121122102729.FGKV1.103139.root@pamxwww07-z01>
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 12:43:57 -0500
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak advice--BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom--

Yes it can leak from the little weep hole--Time to pull the WP and replace
the seal.

Best--Michael


On Thu, Nov 22, 2012 at 10:27 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> 65 P2, BJ8.
>
> week ago--developed coolent leak-----not from hoses.
>
> this week---jacked car up--pulled the water pump and all hoses.
>
> WP gasket was a "cement" mess---took quite a while to scrape it
> off-------cleaned VERY good--Both surfaces---added new gasket and a thin
> layer of Hylomar (blue).
>
> Reassembled-------all bolts ver snug----checked for tightness several
> times.
>
> STILL a pretty good coolent leak-----can't tell exactly where it is coming
> from---can't see well enough---but it is from the area under the water
> pump.  rechecked all bolts--all very tight.
>
> Before I tear evcerythig down again----question
>
> Q-----Can the WP itself leak---if so from where---other than around the
> gasket seal?
>
> WP does not make any noises and is very smooth.
>
> ???????  Any ideas what else to do?
>
> Thanks
> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 22 14:23:53 2012
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 12:50:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] forwards
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I am sending you some old emails I found saved.  Won't be saving them anymore;
if you want to save them, ok.

luv u
M
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 22 15:09:09 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  forwards
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Sorry about that, everyone.  I must learn to use the new-fangled computers, 
someday.  The good news is that I sent the pictures to the right place.  You 
all probably weren't too interested in my granddaughter's first bicycle 
ride.

M


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2012 12:50 PM
Subject: [Healeys] forwards


>I am sending you some old emails I found saved.  Won't be saving them 
>anymore;
> if you want to save them, ok.
>
> luv u
> M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722@comcast.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 22 16:23:51 2012
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Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 18:05:32 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak advice--BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Michael---definitely not leaking from the top weep hole-----so--if it can't leak EXCEPT from the top weep hole, it is not the pump.

tom
---- Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Tom--

Yes it can leak from the little weep hole--Time to pull the WP and replace
the seal.

Best--Michael


On Thu, Nov 22, 2012 at 10:27 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> 65 P2, BJ8.
>
> week ago--developed coolent leak-----not from hoses.
>
> this week---jacked car up--pulled the water pump and all hoses.
>
> WP gasket was a "cement" mess---took quite a while to scrape it
> off-------cleaned VERY good--Both surfaces---added new gasket and a thin
> layer of Hylomar (blue).
>
> Reassembled-------all bolts ver snug----checked for tightness several
> times.
>
> STILL a pretty good coolent leak-----can't tell exactly where it is coming
> from---can't see well enough---but it is from the area under the water
> pump.  rechecked all bolts--all very tight.
>
> Before I tear evcerythig down again----question
>
> Q-----Can the WP itself leak---if so from where---other than around the
> gasket seal?
>
> WP does not make any noises and is very smooth.
>
> ???????  Any ideas what else to do?
>
> Thanks
> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 22 17:02:02 2012
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 00:42:33 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
Organization: Hemma
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20121122180532.Y39X8.111352.root@pamxwww01-z01>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak advice--BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom
I don't think there is a top weep hole, the hole is on the bottom of the 
pump. You may mistake it for the lubrication hole, is there a screw in 
that top hole, then it's for lubrication. You see, depending on the age 
of the pump there are two different types of bearings. Old pumps have 
two roller bearings that need some grease once in a while, newer pump 
have one permanently lubricated bearing.
I had a similar leak a couple of years ago, it leaked big time, no doubt 
where it came from. The water came out as quick as I poured it in.

Per

Tom Felts skrev 2012-11-23 00:05:
> Thanks Michael---definitely not leaking from the top weep hole-----so--if it can't leak EXCEPT from the top weep hole, it is not the pump.
>
> tom
> ---- Michael Oritt<michael.oritt@gmail.com>  wrote:
>
> =============
> Tom--
>
> Yes it can leak from the little weep hole--Time to pull the WP and replace
> the seal.
>
> Best--Michael
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 22, 2012 at 10:27 AM, Tom Felts<tomfelts@windstream.net>  wrote:
>
>> 65 P2, BJ8.
>>
>> week ago--developed coolent leak-----not from hoses.
>>
>> this week---jacked car up--pulled the water pump and all hoses.
>>
>> WP gasket was a "cement" mess---took quite a while to scrape it
>> off-------cleaned VERY good--Both surfaces---added new gasket and a thin
>> layer of Hylomar (blue).
>>
>> Reassembled-------all bolts ver snug----checked for tightness several
>> times.
>>
>> STILL a pretty good coolent leak-----can't tell exactly where it is coming
>> from---can't see well enough---but it is from the area under the water
>> pump.  rechecked all bolts--all very tight.
>>
>> Before I tear evcerythig down again----question
>>
>> Q-----Can the WP itself leak---if so from where---other than around the
>> gasket seal?
>>
>> WP does not make any noises and is very smooth.
>>
>> ???????  Any ideas what else to do?
>>
>> Thanks
>> tom
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy@bredband.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 02:22:26 2012
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From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 09:22:20 -0000
	cv=GaEGOwq9FwezmTggA+b6yC6zDZF2HYaK6RN/tSqdnVA= c=1 sm=0
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Subject: [Healeys] 1965 Austin-Healey 3000 MK 3 Rally Car For Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page/184853/

Cheers

Tom
AH 3000 MKIII BJ8
1960 MGA
1988 Mini Park Lane
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 10:03:05 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist
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the mystery deepens----first---the leak is NOT from the pump---I used a long handle mirror this AM and no leaks from the pump (which definitely has an opening on the top and one on the bottom)------second-----I could not see where the leak was coming from-----third---after running the car for about 10 minutes the leak stopped and has not returned--------------??

My theory is that the gasket had not seated fully and finally did????

Don't know whether to be happy or alarmed:)

We will see.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 08:42:26 2012
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 10:42:33 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>, healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
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OK---so my theory is probably wrong----------after the leak stopped---it started again---and this time I could see coolent coming from the opening on the bottom of the WP---------so--------a new WP looks to be in the works for me-------

Thanks again for all the advice on this concern.

tom


---- Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote: 

=============
the mystery deepens----first---the leak is NOT from the pump---I used a long handle mirror this AM and no leaks from the pump (which definitely has an opening on the top and one on the bottom)------second-----I could not see where the leak was coming from-----third---after running the car for about 10 minutes the leak stopped and has not returned--------------??

My theory is that the gasket had not seated fully and finally did????

Don't know whether to be happy or alarmed:)

We will see.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 09:38:59 2012
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From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20121123104233.1279D.46854.root@pamxwww02-z01>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom,
How long did the engine not run before you observed the leak.
If an engine has not been run for a considerable time some corrosion may 
develop on the sealing surface. This will cause some initial leaking 
that usually disappears after some driving. The same with a new water 
pump, which is likely to leak a bit until the mating surfaces have 
bedded in.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Op 23-11-2012 16:42, Tom Felts schreef:
> OK---so my theory is probably wrong----------after the leak stopped---it started again---and this time I could see coolent coming from the opening on the bottom of the WP---------so--------a new WP looks to be in the works for me-------
>
> Thanks again for all the advice on this concern.
>
> tom
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 09:53:53 2012
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 11:50:54 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This car is VERY frequently driven---and at least 3 times a week-----usually a 75 to 100 mile round trip when driven.  The last long ride was when I discivered the leak---and--it was after that drive that I replaced all the gaskets.

I have now concluded that is is the WP since the last time I did observe coolent coming from the bottom opening of the pump----------also---another piece of info---the leak didn't start right after starting the engine--it would start about 5 of 10 minutes after being started and getting a little temp/prfessure.

Dag
tom

---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: 

=============
Tom,
How long did the engine not run before you observed the leak.
If an engine has not been run for a considerable time some corrosion may 
develop on the sealing surface. This will cause some initial leaking 
that usually disappears after some driving. The same with a new water 
pump, which is likely to leak a bit until the mating surfaces have 
bedded in.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 10:09:26 2012
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 17:06:32 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Cue the discussion about water pump brands. AFAIK, the usual suspects all sell County brand WPs which are, well, suspect. 

Michael Salter sells kits, but not all of us have the proper tools and skills (IIRC a hydraulic press is required) . Maybe we can talk Michael into starting a rebuilding service??? 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


This car is VERY frequently driven---and at least 3 times a week-----usually a 75 to 100 mile round trip when driven. The last long ride was when I discivered the leak---and--it was after that drive that I replaced all the gaskets. 

I have now concluded that is is the WP since the last time I did observe coolent coming from the bottom opening of the pump----------also---another piece of info---the leak didn't start right after starting the engine--it would start about 5 of 10 minutes after being started and getting a little temp/prfessure. 

Dag 
tom 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 11:16:48 2012
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 13:16:29 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I usually have a couple of rebuilt BJ8 pumps hanging around that I would be
happy to sell on an exchange basis however, I MUST have an undamaged core
back. Once the pulley or impellor are damaged the pump is useless.
I stopped promoting them when the cheap repros came on the market as people
seem to prefer a "new" part to a rebuilt because the cost of shipping the
core back made the rebuilt cost a few $ more.
I have no experience with rebuilding the repro BJ8 pumps but IMHO the BN1/2
repros are a piece of junk and are virtually impossible to rebuild.
If the BJ8  ones are of the same quality I would personally have a rebuilt
original any day.
If anyone is interested please contact me off line.

Michael S



On Fri, Nov 23, 2012 at 12:06 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Cue the discussion about water pump brands. AFAIK, the usual suspects all
> sell County brand WPs which are, well, suspect.
>
> Michael Salter sells kits, but not all of us have the proper tools and
> skills (IIRC a hydraulic press is required) . Maybe we can talk Michael
> into starting a rebuilding service???
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> This car is VERY frequently driven---and at least 3 times a
> week-----usually a 75 to 100 mile round trip when driven. The last long
> ride was when I discivered the leak---and--it was after that drive that I
> replaced all the gaskets.
>
> I have now concluded that is is the WP since the last time I did observe
> coolent coming from the bottom opening of the pump----------also---another
> piece of info---the leak didn't start right after starting the engine--it
> would start about 5 of 10 minutes after being started and getting a little
> temp/prfessure.
>
> Dag
> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 11:29:11 2012
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 13:29:18 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
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That is what I'm finding out.  But---I may not have a choice unless someone has a NOS one lying around they want to sell---which isn't likely.

tom
---- Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
Cue the discussion about water pump brands. AFAIK, the usual suspects all sell County brand WPs which are, well, suspect. 

Michael Salter sells kits, but not all of us have the proper tools and skills (IIRC a hydraulic press is required) . Maybe we can talk Michael into starting a rebuilding service??? 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


This car is VERY frequently driven---and at least 3 times a week-----usually a 75 to 100 mile round trip when driven. The last long ride was when I discivered the leak---and--it was after that drive that I replaced all the gaskets. 

I have now concluded that is is the WP since the last time I did observe coolent coming from the bottom opening of the pump----------also---another piece of info---the leak didn't start right after starting the engine--it would start about 5 of 10 minutes after being started and getting a little temp/prfessure. 

Dag 
tom 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 13:24:39 2012
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From: EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 20:23:48 +0000
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Subject: [Healeys] BN6 generator
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Has anyone replaced a gen for this model ad where did you get it? Thanks Ed
Anderson
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 12:36:53 -0800
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20121123100305.DUEUG.76883.root@pamxwww04-z01>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom,

BJ8 style water pumps are not hard to rebuild. However, finding parts 
can be difficult especially the water seal which is the part you 
need. Depending on the pump bearing shaft type, the bearings may be 
hard to find. If they are the sealed type, the ones you have may be fine.

I rebuilt my BT7 water pump which had a fat bearing shaft; which is 
not the style shown in the Moss catalog. My water pump has a fat 
shaft which requires one to remove the impeller to install a new 
water seal. This is how I did it:

I had the pump disassembled at a machine shop but you may be able to 
do it yourself. I realized how once I talked to the mechanist. Make a 
plate that bolts to all four of the fan blade holes with a welded nut 
in the center and a bolt to press off the pulley. Pull out the wire 
that is used to position the bearing shaft (fat shaft type) if the 
wire is even there. The wire is accessed through the hole where the 
water is leaking out. Use a paper clip, steel wire or stainless steel 
wire to make a new one. You should be able to push the bearing shaft 
out at this point. If not you may need to have it pressed out. I 
could push out the fat shaft.

The difficult part is removing and replacing the impeller on the end 
of the bearing shaft. Press it off and on very carefully with a tool 
that does not pull on the impeller and that seats fully on the 
impeller water seal face. You need to fully support the impeller face 
while the shaft is pushed out and in. The shaft and impeller may 
appear welded together but that is because of all the crud. You may 
want to have a machine shop separate the impeller and shaft. Once 
disassembled you can have the bearing surface on the impeller 
machined ever so slightly to flatten it and take out pits. It is a 
poorly cast part so you will never remove all of the pits. Install a 
new seal on the shaft and press the impeller back into place. 
Reinstall the assembly into the pump body with a little silicon to 
better seal where the seal pushes into the cleaned and painted pump 
body. Install the retaining clip and then press the pulley back onto 
the bearing shaft.

Be sure to note where the pulley is in relation to the crankshaft 
pulley so the fan belt is aligned properly. Note how far the shaft 
protrudes through the pulley before disassembly. It be checked by 
positioning the pump, with gasket, in the engine and using a straight 
edge to note how the two pulleys align. Adjust by removing the pump 
from the engine and setting it on a firm surface (such as a concrete 
floor) with a small socket supporting the bearing shaft. Be certain 
it is not pressing against the impeller. Use a large mallet and a 
block of wood to force the pulley further onto the shaft if you need to.

Cheers,
John Spaur
'62 BT7
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References: <mailman.19.1353697204.20930.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<SNT134-W25E52C18F5363B833D1884B35A0@phx.gbl>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 12:45:13 -0800
To: EDWARD ANDERSON <eandy01@msn.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We have rebuilt units in stock with new field windings, new armature,  
brushes and bearings.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Nov 23, 2012, at 12:23 PM, EDWARD ANDERSON wrote:

> Has anyone replaced a gen for this model ad where did you get it?  
> Thanks Ed
> Anderson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 13:52:43 2012
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From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 15:52:52 -0500
References: <mailman.19.1353697204.20930.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<SNT134-W25E52C18F5363B833D1884B35A0@phx.gbl>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Most likely you can find a shop in your area that can rebuild it for you. Take the voltage regulator in with it and they will check/rebuild it as well. That's what I did with mine.

Al Malin
Tricarb

On Nov 23, 2012, at 3:23 PM, EDWARD ANDERSON wrote:

> Has anyone replaced a gen for this model ad where did you get it? Thanks Ed
> Anderson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin@mac.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 14:56:31 2012
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 22:55:37 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
Organization: Hemma
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20121123132918.RBBBI.68194.root@pamxwww11-z01>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom
It sounds like you have a perfectly usable core, so that you can either 
purchase a rebuilt pump from Michael or you can purchase a kit from him 
and rebuild it yourself. Don't make the same mistake as I did, I 
replaced my perfectly usable pump with a new one, just to be on the safe 
side because my car had not been used for 15 years. The new pump lasted 
half a year. Needless to say, I now have an old rebuilt pump, that has 
served me OK for the last 4 years. Took it apart a couple of weeks ago, 
cleaned and relubricated it. I expect it to last a long time.

Per

Tom Felts skrev 2012-11-23 19:29:
> That is what I'm finding out.  But---I may not have a choice unless someone has a NOS one lying around they want to sell---which isn't likely.
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 19:17:23 -0500
From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20121123132918.RBBBI.68194.root@pamxwww11-z01>
	<50AFF0D9.2040600@bredband.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The trick to all this is to have a new pump in the boot.  Then the one 
on the engine will not fail;-)

John
64/66BJ8s

On 11/23/2012 4:55 PM, Per Schoerner wrote:
> Tom
> It sounds like you have a perfectly usable core, so that you can 
> either purchase a rebuilt pump from Michael or you can purchase a kit 
> from him and rebuild it yourself. Don't make the same mistake as I 
> did, I replaced my perfectly usable pump with a new one, just to be on 
> the safe side because my car had not been used for 15 years. The new 
> pump lasted half a year. Needless to say, I now have an old rebuilt 
> pump, that has served me OK for the last 4 years. Took it apart a 
> couple of weeks ago, cleaned and relubricated it. I expect it to last 
> a long time.
>
> Per
>
> Tom Felts skrev 2012-11-23 19:29:
>> That is what I'm finding out.  But---I may not have a choice unless 
>> someone has a NOS one lying around they want to sell---which isn't 
>> likely.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman@htcnet.org
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'EDWARD ANDERSON'" <eandy01@msn.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19.1353697204.20930.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<SNT134-W25E52C18F5363B833D1884B35A0@phx.gbl>
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 17:20:06 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac3JuI9cFpSajVikQ+6aEsCuIySjPwAIK15Q
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 generator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm guessing you want to replace it with an alternator.. There are a number
of conversion kits out there. I think Hendrix Wire wheel comes to mind for
simplicity and cost.
Dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of EDWARD ANDERSON
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2012 1:24 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 generator

Has anyone replaced a gen for this model ad where did you get it? Thanks Ed
Anderson
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 18:47:29 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission dipstick
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I replaced the O rings on the dipstick. Now I have to use a 
come-along attached to the garage rafters to remove it.

Does anyone know where I can get a better sized O ring? The local 
hardware stores don't have a suitable replacement.

TIA,
John Spaur
San Jose, CA
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 19:56:40 2012
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 02:56:51 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission dipstick
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John, 

If you can't find one in here don't know where you'd look: 

http://www.harborfreight.com/382-piece-o-ring-assortment-67554.html 

Nitrile is oil-resistant and, of course you know we have an HF in our area. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


I replaced the O rings on the dipstick. Now I have to use a 
come-along attached to the garage rafters to remove it. 

Does anyone know where I can get a better sized O ring? The local 
hardware stores don't have a suitable replacement. 

TIA, 
John Spaur 
San Jose, CA 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 20:27:14 2012
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To: "John Vrugtman" <javrugtman@htcnet.org>, healeys-bounces@autox.team.net,
	healeys@autox.team.net
From: neilblackshire@gmail.com
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 03:22:20 +0000
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I carried one in the boot for 2.5 yrs and then the generator front bearing failed instead 500 miles from home. Is that Sods or Murphies law?
Neil
Enviado desde mi BlackBerry. de Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation

The trick to all this is to have a new pump in the boot.  Then the one 
on the engine will not fail;-)

John
64/66BJ8s

On 11/23/2012 4:55 PM, Per Schoerner wrote:
> Tom
> It sounds like you have a perfectly usable core, so that you can 
> either purchase a rebuilt pump from Michael or you can purchase a kit 
> from him and rebuild it yourself. Don't make the same mistake as I 
> did, I replaced my perfectly usable pump with a new one, just to be on 
> the safe side because my car had not been used for 15 years. The new 
> pump lasted half a year. Needless to say, I now have an old rebuilt 
> pump, that has served me OK for the last 4 years. Took it apart a 
> couple of weeks ago, cleaned and relubricated it. I expect it to last 
> a long time.
>
> Per
>
> Tom Felts skrev 2012-11-23 19:29:
>> That is what I'm finding out.  But---I may not have a choice unless 
>> someone has a NOS one lying around they want to sell---which isn't 
>> likely.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 21:21:30 2012
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 20:21:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>, Bob Spidell
  <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission dipstick
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

If you find one, let us know.  I have the same problem.

Greg

--- On Fri, 11/23/12, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission dipstick
> To: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, November 23, 2012, 9:56 PM
> Hi John,
>
> If you can't find one in here don't know where you'd look:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/382-piece-o-ring-assortment-67554.html
>
>
> Nitrile is oil-resistant and, of course you know we have an
> HF in our area.
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> I replaced the O rings on the dipstick. Now I have to use a
>
> come-along attached to the garage rafters to remove it.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get a better sized O ring? The
> local
> hardware stores don't have a suitable replacement.
>
> TIA,
> John Spaur
> San Jose, CA
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 23:00:44 2012
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	<50AFF0D9.2040600@bredband.net> <50B01213.7000202@htcnet.org>
	<20121124032705.3A12343803@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 21:56:48 -0800
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: neilblackshire@gmail.com
Cc: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Look the way it works is simple.
if you have all the parts and the tools to fix it with you in the boot,
that part will never fail.
Got a spare set of points, screwdriver and a feeler gauge?  No issues with
the points.
Got a set of plugs and a plug wrench?  No issues with the spark plugs.
However if you have points and plugs that is no guarantee that the water
pump won't fail.
Got the water pump, but not the tools to change it?  Ooooh, not a good
idea.  Do you feel lucky?
Rick
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 05:46:17 2012
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 7:45:55 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: neilblackshire@gmail.com, healeys-bounces@autox.team.net,  John
	Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've carried a spare Pertronix in the boot for 13 years-----------wonder when I'll need that thing?:)


---- neilblackshire@gmail.com wrote: 

=============
I carried one in the boot for 2.5 yrs and then the generator front bearing failed instead 500 miles from home. Is that Sods or Murphies law?
Neil
Enviado desde mi BlackBerry. de Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation

The trick to all this is to have a new pump in the boot.  Then the one 
on the engine will not fail;-)

John
64/66BJ8s

On 11/23/2012 4:55 PM, Per Schoerner wrote:
> Tom
> It sounds like you have a perfectly usable core, so that you can 
> either purchase a rebuilt pump from Michael or you can purchase a kit 
> from him and rebuild it yourself. Don't make the same mistake as I 
> did, I replaced my perfectly usable pump with a new one, just to be on 
> the safe side because my car had not been used for 15 years. The new 
> pump lasted half a year. Needless to say, I now have an old rebuilt 
> pump, that has served me OK for the last 4 years. Took it apart a 
> couple of weeks ago, cleaned and relubricated it. I expect it to last 
> a long time.
>
> Per
>
> Tom Felts skrev 2012-11-23 19:29:
>> That is what I'm finding out.  But---I may not have a choice unless 
>> someone has a NOS one lying around they want to sell---which isn't 
>> likely.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman@htcnet.org
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 05:54:55 2012
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 7:49:10 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>, neilblackshire@gmail.com
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

BTW, anyone ever tried to change a WP w/o pulling the radiator?


---- Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Look the way it works is simple.
if you have all the parts and the tools to fix it with you in the boot,
that part will never fail.
Got a spare set of points, screwdriver and a feeler gauge?  No issues with
the points.
Got a set of plugs and a plug wrench?  No issues with the spark plugs.
However if you have points and plugs that is no guarantee that the water
pump won't fail.
Got the water pump, but not the tools to change it?  Ooooh, not a good
idea.  Do you feel lucky?
Rick
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 06:10:22 2012
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From: Bob Yule <autofarm@xplornet.ca>
To: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts@windstream.net>, "Richard Ewald"
	<richard.ewald@gmail.com>, <neilblackshire@gmail.com>
References: <20121124074910.MHK2H.70480.root@pamxwww11-z01>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 08:14:11 -0500
Cc: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

    Yes, it can be done.  Did it in the UK in a motorway parking lot on the 
UK2K Tour. You need to remove the fan first.  (Some aftermarket fans are 
very difficult to get at.)  After you're done you need knuckle 
reconstructive surgery.  It's a lot easier with the rad removed.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>; <neilblackshire@gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2012 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation


> BTW, anyone ever tried to change a WP w/o pulling the radiator?
>
>
> ---- Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> Look the way it works is simple.
> if you have all the parts and the tools to fix it with you in the boot,
> that part will never fail.
> Got a spare set of points, screwdriver and a feeler gauge?  No issues with
> the points.
> Got a set of plugs and a plug wrench?  No issues with the spark plugs.
> However if you have points and plugs that is no guarantee that the water
> pump won't fail.
> Got the water pump, but not the tools to change it?  Ooooh, not a good
> idea.  Do you feel lucky?
> Rick
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 06:31:25 2012
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 8:31:28 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>, neilblackshire@gmail.com, 
	Bob Yule <autofarm@cyg.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	Bob Yule <autofarm@xplornet.ca>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I "thought" about it one time----no way I could get to the bolts on the fan.  Draining the coolent from the rad is the worst part--removing the rad is relatively easy.


---- Bob Yule <autofarm@xplornet.ca> wrote: 

=============
    Yes, it can be done.  Did it in the UK in a motorway parking lot on the 
UK2K Tour. You need to remove the fan first.  (Some aftermarket fans are 
very difficult to get at.)  After you're done you need knuckle 
reconstructive surgery.  It's a lot easier with the rad removed.
Cheers.......Bob
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 06:48:23 2012
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From: andy pole <ampole@hotmail.com>
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 13:48:06 +0000
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Cc: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net,
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have done it also on a bj8 with just removing the fan blades, there is
enough clearance on the rad to get the fan bolts out and there was just enough
clearance to get the pump out.

The only difficult bit is that the 4 pump studs act as a cage and you cant
retrieve the pump, I had to lock two nuts on one of the bottom studs to remove
it and then it was ok. (seemed easier than taking rad out (bottom hose is a
pig to get to with the cross member!)

cheers Andy
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 07:31:30 2012
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 09:31:34 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Sarasota Fl
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm in Sarasota for a couple of days...I see there is a motor museum which
is on my list...anything else on or in the area that I should not miss?

Thanks,
-- 
Michael Salter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 09:45:38 2012
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 10:44:07 -0600
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rare but Rough Big Wolseley 6/90 For sale in SoCal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have some pics and tad of info.

Ed
***************************************************************************

Here is a car that is quite rare, especially here in the US in LHD 
- Only 5776 were made in total and so few are here in the US, most or 
all were brought in from Europe or Canada.  - This one is rough, but 
mostly there and still has its 2600cc OHV, Austin Healey style engine 
- It was towed into a wrecking yard years ago. Original Morris Club 
member Norm Pabst found this diamond-in-the-rough and says it will go 
quite reasonably and needs someone to love and build it or at least 
use the parts......  I have added an image of one restored in the UK 
and another of the original Pathfinder as well as some info on the 
car.  These were very large cars by British standards, more the size 
of a Jag MK VII, Humber Hawk, or an early-1950s Bentley, that the 
smaller popular British cars that we are accustomed to seeing on 
American roads...  I'd hate to see this one recycled, especially with 
all of the parts still on it - It needs a better end than that......
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 11:06:26 2012
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <68275D181E1A4DD188D6020D7D86700E@OFFICE>,
	<20121124083128.7VHWG.70548.root@pamxwww11-z01>
	<DUB105-W360E74B2D562C84404B497D5590@phx.gbl>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 13:06:16 -0500
Thread-index: Ac3KSnthFaLNDBwRRIaM9CHxndDlHgAIt72w
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've taken my radiator out enough times now that I can do it in about 10
minutes not counting draining time.  Access for removing the bottom hose is
made easier by removing the four lower rad fasteners, loosing the top two,
and swinging the bottom of the rad forward.  I use a screw-type clamp on the
bottom hose and make sure the screw is oriented so that I can get a
screwdriver on it from below.  To prevent the hose from sticking to the
radiator neck, I smear anti-seize on the inside of the hose.  
Be careful when removing the rad not to allow the corners of the wind
deflector to gouge the fins.  I have made a protector from a couple pieces
of scrap aluminum sheet, and slip those into the lower corners of the rad
before removing or installing it.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of andy pole
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2012 8:48 AM
To: tomfelts@windstream.net; richard.ewald@gmail.com;
neilblackshire@gmail.com; autofarm@cyg.net
Cc: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net; healeys@autox.team.net;
autofarm@xplornet.ca
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation

I have done it also on a bj8 with just removing the fan blades, there is
enough clearance on the rad to get the fan bolts out and there was just
enough clearance to get the pump out.

The only difficult bit is that the 4 pump studs act as a cage and you cant
retrieve the pump, I had to lock two nuts on one of the bottom studs to
remove it and then it was ok. (seemed easier than taking rad out (bottom
hose is a pig to get to with the cross member!)

cheers Andy
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 12:21:15 2012
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 11:15:36 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank gasket
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have the new Moss fuel tank gasket that fits between the tank and 
the boot floor. When installed the tank sits high. It is very 
difficult to attach the fuel pipe and it greatly distorts the 
grommet. I have not filled the tank but the closed cell foam is very 
stiff and I doubt filling the tank will cause it to settle down.

Has anyone else had this problem and if so were you able to solve it?

Thank you,
John Spaur
San Jose, CA
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 12:22:15 2012
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 14:10:12 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sarasota Fl
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Many thanks to all for the recommendations for my Sarasota visit.
Looks like I have a busy couple of days ahead.
Michael S


On Sat, Nov 24, 2012 at 9:31 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> I'm in Sarasota for a couple of days...I see there is a motor museum which
> is on my list...anything else on or in the area that I should not miss?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>
>



-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 13:07:05 2012
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 11:58:21 -0800
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Subject: [Healeys] Near Sarasota
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http://www.fantasyofflight.com/

 

Highly recommended - between Tampa and Orlando

 

Has a flying Short Sunderland.

 

--

Steve Gerow
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 13:11:22 2012
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http://mcmfitness.com/wp-content/themes/theme1692/hotnews.php?worse291.img
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 13:28:01 2012
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 15:27:55 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I found I had to loosen and move the right (facing the car) deflector to be able to move the rad forward to clear the drain connector past the crossmember-----surprised you can do it w/o doing that.


---- BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote: 

=============
I've taken my radiator out enough times now that I can do it in about 10
minutes not counting draining time.  Access for removing the bottom hose is
made easier by removing the four lower rad fasteners, loosing the top two,
and swinging the bottom of the rad forward.  I use a screw-type clamp on the
bottom hose and make sure the screw is oriented so that I can get a
screwdriver on it from below.  To prevent the hose from sticking to the
radiator neck, I smear anti-seize on the inside of the hose.  
Be careful when removing the rad not to allow the corners of the wind
deflector to gouge the fins.  I have made a protector from a couple pieces
of scrap aluminum sheet, and slip those into the lower corners of the rad
before removing or installing it.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of andy pole
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2012 8:48 AM
To: tomfelts@windstream.net; richard.ewald@gmail.com;
neilblackshire@gmail.com; autofarm@cyg.net
Cc: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net; healeys@autox.team.net;
autofarm@xplornet.ca
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation

I have done it also on a bj8 with just removing the fan blades, there is
enough clearance on the rad to get the fan bolts out and there was just
enough clearance to get the pump out.

The only difficult bit is that the 4 pump studs act as a cage and you cant
retrieve the pump, I had to lock two nuts on one of the bottom studs to
remove it and then it was ok. (seemed easier than taking rad out (bottom
hose is a pig to get to with the cross member!)

cheers Andy
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To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <009501cdca6e$65b35fc0$311a1f40$@rr.com>
	<20121124152755.SBNF1.72034.root@pamxwww11-z01>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 16:05:56 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't have to disturb the wind deflector other than bending in the wings
slightly to clear the lower tank as it comes up, and I can pull the bottom of
the radiator forward enough to clear the lower hose connection past the
crossmember.  Yes, it's a tight fit.  I have to turn the fan manually to allow
the lower hose connection to pass the plane of the fan between blades.

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Felts [mailto:tomfelts@windstream.net]
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2012 3:28 PM
To: BJ8 Healeys; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coolent leak-------new twist-----another observation

I found I had to loosen and move the right (facing the car) deflector to be
able to move the rad forward to clear the drain connector past the
crossmember-----surprised you can do it w/o doing that.
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 13:24:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Hacked!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't open any suspicious email from me(arn't they all)
Best
JK
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 14:39:16 2012
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 15:30:27 -0600
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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	{sentby:smtp auth 24.15.13.164 authed with sales@justbrits.com}
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hacked!
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Change yer password on that POS yahoo, Jackson ! !

"supposed" to fix things until NEXT time.  Best bet ??  Gets diff Addy 
<G> !

Ed
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 20:34:48 2012
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Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 19:31:34 -0800
From: F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] insulation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am about to put a new interior in a FHC.

I am looking for the best heat shield for the inside of the fire wall
from the bottom of the windshield to the trunk.
I am also looking for the best sound deadening material for inside the
doors, trunk and headliner.
I suspect they may not be the same.

I have used dynamat before but perhaps it does not have the best heat
insulating properties.
Tnx

ron rader
XK 150 FHC
1954 Nash Healey FHC
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 25 06:44:37 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'F Ronald Rader'" <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>, "'List Healey'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAO8P17ZURRUjRd4P_n2Tv6twEjtO+HuE36KXcVw7-scy7UDfMg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 06:41:49 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac3Kvdx2eH4Fag4sTfevV8jdpWHYNgAVJxPA
Subject: Re: [Healeys] insulation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ron,
 I've had great success with 3M Body Schutz. A spray on product.
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of F Ronald Rader
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2012 8:32 PM
To: List Healey
Subject: [Healeys] insulation

I am about to put a new interior in a FHC.

I am looking for the best heat shield for the inside of the fire wall
from the bottom of the windshield to the trunk.
I am also looking for the best sound deadening material for inside the
doors, trunk and headliner.
I suspect they may not be the same.

I have used dynamat before but perhaps it does not have the best heat
insulating properties.
Tnx

ron rader
XK 150 FHC
1954 Nash Healey FHC
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 25 13:55:55 2012
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 14:50:38 -0600
From: Graeme Lowden <lowden@highspeedcrow.ca>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
	Thunderbird/16.0.2
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAO8P17ZURRUjRd4P_n2Tv6twEjtO+HuE36KXcVw7-scy7UDfMg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] insulation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Check out B-Quiet.com

Graeme Lowden
62 BT7
Lotus Elan S4

On 11/24/2012 9:31 PM, F Ronald Rader wrote:
> I am about to put a new interior in a FHC.
>
> I am looking for the best heat shield for the inside of the fire wall
> from the bottom of the windshield to the trunk.
> I am also looking for the best sound deadening material for inside the
> doors, trunk and headliner.
> I suspect they may not be the same.
>
> I have used dynamat before but perhaps it does not have the best heat
> insulating properties.
> Tnx
>
> ron rader
> XK 150 FHC
> 1954 Nash Healey FHC
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lowden@highspeedcrow.ca
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5917 - Release Date: 11/24/12
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 25 16:28:59 2012
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From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 17:22:28 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac3LY4t+kA2FIqKnQxSYFuiNrjA+gQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix Distributor Again!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Fellow Healeyoids, I'm in the process of hooking up a Pertronix Distributor
AGAIN on my 63 BJ7. My Healey was running fine on the old points. I burned
out or it was bad to begin with the first Pertronix distributor I installed
one month ago. I have a rebuilt unit now.
Here is my question, my car has been converted to negative ground, that is
for certain. I also have an alternator. I have new Bosch plug wires that are
not solid core wire but carbon fiber as per the instructions and a new
Pertronix coil. It is only two simple leads, one to the neg and one to the
pos of the coil. Easy! Now, which way are the wires to go from the harness
with a neg ground car to the coil? Does the B/W lead go to the pos or the
neg? The solid white wire will go to the other terminal then. Thanks!

Randy
63 BJ7
60 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 25 21:23:54 2012
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From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 23:03:54 -0500
To: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 fuel pump banjos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

List,

The fuel pump banjos have a flat side and s detent side. Am I right that the
flat side goes next to the pump?

Also, how do you get them to seal without crushing them? The fibre gaskets
from Moss aren't sealing well.

Greg


Sent from my iPhone.
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 25 21:53:14 2012
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 20:32:14 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
	Thunderbird/16.0.2
To: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
References: <DD207679-C10D-40C9-850F-1E3410835B3F@yahoo.com>
Cc: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 fuel pump banjos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Flat side to the pump (detent side to banjo bolt head).  Note the new pumps have a recess (detent) in the pump housing 
for an O-ring (no fiber washer necessary/allowed).

The black fiber washers don't work as well as the older, orange/brown-colored ones.  You might try softening them up by 
soaking in gas or light oil for a bit (you don't want them squishy, however).

Bob




On 11/25/2012 8:03 PM, Greg Mandas wrote:
> List,
>
> The fuel pump banjos have a flat side and s detent side. Am I right that the
> flat side goes next to the pump?
>
> Also, how do you get them to seal without crushing them? The fibre gaskets
> from Moss aren't sealing well.
>
> Greg
>
>
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 06:33:57 2012
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References: <004301cdcb63$bcc636c0$3652a440$@midwestarchaeology.com>
To: rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com, healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Distributor Again!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The white harness wire & the red pertronix wire go on the (+) terminal on the
coil. The black pertronix wire & the black/white harness wire go on the (-)
terminal.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Dickson <rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 25, 2012 5:29 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix Distributor Again!


Fellow Healeyoids, I'm in the process of hooking up a Pertronix Distributor
AGAIN on my 63 BJ7. My Healey was running fine on the old points. I burned
out or it was bad to begin with the first Pertronix distributor I installed
one month ago. I have a rebuilt unit now.
Here is my question, my car has been converted to negative ground, that is
for certain. I also have an alternator. I have new Bosch plug wires that are
not solid core wire but carbon fiber as per the instructions and a new
Pertronix coil. It is only two simple leads, one to the neg and one to the
pos of the coil. Easy! Now, which way are the wires to go from the harness
with a neg ground car to the coil? Does the B/W lead go to the pos or the
neg? The solid white wire will go to the other terminal then. Thanks!

Randy
63 BJ7
60 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 07:02:38 2012
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From: "Attean Lake Lodge" <info@atteanlodge.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 09:01:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] choke pull
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Could someone tell me what the normal distance the choke pull should be on a
BJ8 HD8 carbs? I am talking from run position to full enrichment.Many thanks.

Brad Holden
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 08:03:30 2012
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 06:58:28 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: Attean Lake Lodge <info@atteanlodge.com>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] choke pull
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mine travels about an inch.

Bob


On 11/26/2012 6:01 AM, Attean Lake Lodge wrote:
> Could someone tell me what the normal distance the choke pull should be on a
> BJ8 HD8 carbs? I am talking from run position to full enrichment.Many thanks.
>
> Brad Holden
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 09:37:39 2012
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 08:25:08 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Spridgets List <spridgets@autox.team.net>, Healey List
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Cheap tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

192 pc Craftsman mechanics tool set for $99 on cyber-Monday :
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00933192000P?vName=Tools&cName=Mecha
nics&AutoTools&sName=Mechanics%20Tool%20Setsmv=rr  


Not as good as Snap-On
but better than Harbor Freight.  

 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow
My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 11:24:44 2012
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 10:18:08 -0800
From: "m.fawcett" <m.fawcett@verizon.net>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Cc: Spridgets List <spridgets@autox.team.net>,
	Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cheap tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I would say "95% as good as Snap On at 1/3 the price".  Lifetime warranty.

Mark

On Mon, Nov 26, 2012 at 8:25 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> 192 pc Craftsman mechanics tool set for $99 on cyber-Monday :
>
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00933192000P?vName=Tools&cName=Mecha
> nics&AutoTools&sName=Mechanics%20Tool%20Setsmv=rr<http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00933192000P?vName=Tools&cName=Mecha%0Anics&AutoTools&sName=Mechanics%20Tool%20Setsmv=rr>
>
>
> Not as good as Snap-On
> but better than Harbor Freight.
>
>
> Rick
>
>
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow
> My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.fawcett@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 11:54:25 2012
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 10:49:35 -0800
To: "m.fawcett" <m.fawcett@verizon.net>
Cc: Spridgets List <spridgets@autox.team.net>,
	Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cheap tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bwahahaha!
Go on pull the other one it has bells on it.  I can tell you horror stories
about crapsman tools.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 26, 2012, at 10:18, "m.fawcett" <m.fawcett@verizon.net> wrote:

> I would say "95% as good as Snap On at 1/3 the price".  Lifetime warranty.
>
> Mark
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 14:42:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 fuel pump banjos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

You're telling me they don't work as well.
I'll try again tomorrow night.
They were soaked when I spun up the pump and they leaked.

gm

--- On Sun, 11/25/12, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 fuel pump banjos
> To: "Greg Mandas" <gmandas@yahoo.com>
> Cc: "Team Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, November 25, 2012, 11:32 PM
> Flat side to the pump (detent side to
> banjo bolt head).  Note the new pumps have a recess
> (detent) in the pump housing
> for an O-ring (no fiber washer necessary/allowed).
>
> The black fiber washers don't work as well as the older,
> orange/brown-colored ones.  You might try softening
> them up by
> soaking in gas or light oil for a bit (you don't want them
> squishy, however).
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> On 11/25/2012 8:03 PM, Greg Mandas wrote:
> > List,
> >
> > The fuel pump banjos have a flat side and s detent
> side. Am I right that the
> > flat side goes next to the pump?
> >
> > Also, how do you get them to seal without crushing
> them? The fibre gaskets
> > from Moss aren't sealing well.
> >
> > Greg
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San
> Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 14:47:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Carbs -- Install together or separately?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Do "You" remove/install the carbs on a BJ8 together as one unit or separately?

I do them together, but it's a bit difficult to get to the two bolts under the rear carb.

I'm assuming to replace them separately, you'd have to disassemble the linkage and reset it afterwards.

Greg
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 17:25:32 2012
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	<1353970079.78284.YahooMailClassic@web162901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 07:57:57 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Cc: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Carbs -- Install together or separately?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Greg -

Unfortunately the BJ8 carbs must go on and off as a pair because of the
throttle cross shaft slots into the throttle levers on the carb shafts.

I have found that using the shortie box wrench (from craftsman pro) is the
best way to get to those nuts under the rear carb.

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-11-pc-standard-full-polish-12/p-00944138000P?vName=Hand+Tools&cName=Wrenches&sName=Combination+Wrench+Sets&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=L1

Best,

Alan


On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 6:47 AM, Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Do "You" remove/install the carbs on a BJ8 together as one unit or
> separately?
>
> I do them together, but it's a bit difficult to get to the two bolts under
> the rear carb.
>
> I'm assuming to replace them separately, you'd have to disassemble the
> linkage and reset it afterwards.
>
> Greg
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 19:06:45 -0500
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Carbs -- Install together or separately?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Crap. I thought I was doing it wrong. Got one. It's the only way to get to
them.

Greg


Sent from my iPhone.


On Nov 26, 2012, at 6:57 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> Greg -
>
> Unfortunately the BJ8 carbs must go on and off as a pair because of the
throttle cross shaft slots into the throttle levers on the carb shafts.
>
> I have found that using the shortie box wrench (from craftsman pro) is the
best way to get to those nuts under the rear carb.
>
>
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-11-pc-standard-full-polish-12
/p-00944138000P?vName=Hand+Tools&cName=Wrenches&sName=Combination+Wrench+Sets
&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=L1
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 6:47 AM, Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Do "You" remove/install the carbs on a BJ8 together as one unit or
separately?
>>
>> I do them together, but it's a bit difficult to get to the two bolts under
the rear carb.
>>
>> I'm assuming to replace them separately, you'd have to disassemble the
linkage and reset it afterwards.
>>
>> Greg
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 16:16:44 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Cc: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Carbs -- Install together or separately?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've always R&R'd simultaneously. Don't think you can even do it separately, as the linkage is too long, even though 
it's three (I think) pieces.   You could if the carbs were bolted on, but they're on studs.

I reach under the front carb to get to the rear carb's lower rear nuts with a stubby end wrench.

Bob


On 11/26/2012 2:47 PM, Greg Mandas wrote:
> Do "You" remove/install the carbs on a BJ8 together as one unit or separately?
>
> I do them together, but it's a bit difficult to get to the two bolts under the rear carb.
>
> I'm assuming to replace them separately, you'd have to disassemble the linkage and reset it afterwards.
>
> Greg
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 18:22:32 2012
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'Team Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <50B2F0CE.2070401@comcast.net>
	<1353970079.78284.YahooMailClassic@web162901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<CAFBXTkJ-W47bheF8-hkiXk+TTy=q5CgsS=BDw-P6oTyCJ9CUJg@mail.gmail.com>
	<3EB7756A-C3F3-4305-87EB-1B758A131FA5@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 20:00:18 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Carbs -- Install together or separately?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Greg, getting to the bottom nuts to remove and install the carbs is a
miserable job.  A friend made a tool that works really well by cutting a
1/2" spanner in two lengthwise and having it welded back in the shape of an
"L".  I'm going to do that next time I have to remove my carbs.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Mandas
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2012 7:07 PM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Team Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Carbs -- Install together or separately?

Crap. I thought I was doing it wrong. Got one. It's the only way to get to
them.

Greg


Sent from my iPhone.


On Nov 26, 2012, at 6:57 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> Greg -
>
> Unfortunately the BJ8 carbs must go on and off as a pair because of 
> the
throttle cross shaft slots into the throttle levers on the carb shafts.
>
> I have found that using the shortie box wrench (from craftsman pro) is 
> the
best way to get to those nuts under the rear carb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 19:06:53 2012
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 20:42:12 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>, Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Carbs -- Install together or separately?
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just did this to replace a jet assy.  I removed them together till they clear the studs--then the center section of the linkage cpmes out and suddenly you have separate carrs.  go back the same way----kinda ease the linkage in the slots while sliding the carbs over the studs together.  

Do not disasemble the linkage--you don't need to.

tom

---- Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com> wrote: 

=============
Do "You" remove/install the carbs on a BJ8 together as one unit or separately?

I do them together, but it's a bit difficult to get to the two bolts under the rear carb.

I'm assuming to replace them separately, you'd have to disassemble the linkage and reset it afterwards.

Greg
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 19:08:39 2012
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 20:45:52 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>, Greg Mandas
  <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Carbs -- Install together or separately?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I jack up the car--lay on my back and reach up with a long open end 1/2" wrench to tighten that nut.  It is a pain in the butt.

tom

---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Greg -

Unfortunately the BJ8 carbs must go on and off as a pair because of the
throttle cross shaft slots into the throttle levers on the carb shafts.

I have found that using the shortie box wrench (from craftsman pro) is the
best way to get to those nuts under the rear carb.

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-11-pc-standard-full-polish-12/p-00944138000P?vName=Hand+Tools&cName=Wrenches&sName=Combination+Wrench+Sets&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=L1

Best,

Alan


On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 6:47 AM, Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Do "You" remove/install the carbs on a BJ8 together as one unit or
> separately?
>
> I do them together, but it's a bit difficult to get to the two bolts under
> the rear carb.
>
> I'm assuming to replace them separately, you'd have to disassemble the
> linkage and reset it afterwards.
>
> Greg
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 19:09:25 2012
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "'Team Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <50B2F0CE.2070401@comcast.net><1353970079.78284.YahooMailClassic@web162901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com><CAFBXTkJ-W47bheF8-hkiXk+TTy=q5CgsS=BDw-P6oTyCJ9CUJg@mail.gmail.com><3EB7756A-C3F3-4305-87EB-1B758A131FA5@yahoo.com>
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 19:47:26 -0600
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Carbs -- Install together or separately?
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I will admit I have never done it on a BJ8, but on other dual SU or 
stromberg dual carbed cars I have installed the carbs separately by putting 
the first carb on the studs still free to move about, loosening the linkage 
pieces so there is some play, and finagling it around to get things started 
in the holes then sliding it on.  Don't know about BJ8s, but has worked on 
BN1, TR4A, TR250, Sprite and MGB with similar setups.

Greg Lemon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 23:12:27 2012
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years ago i bought a set of cheap C wrenches from harbor freight.  i have only used the 1/2 inch one and only to take the bottom nuts off the rear carb.  they work well for that.  once they are loose i can spin them off with my fingers.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 26 23:41:38 2012
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 23:23:03 -0700
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] carbs
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healeymanjim@hansencc.net wrote:
>    once they are loose i can spin them off with my fingers.
>
Good point.  Before mounting the carbs clean up the studs and nuts so 
that they are
easily run with little effort.  You should be able to snug the nuts up 
against the washers
using just fingers, and only need the wrench for a few twists.

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 00:02:53 2012
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 22:35:45 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] carbs
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I always thought that the c shaped wrench was called a carburetor wrench. 
By looking for one on-line, I find that they are called an 'obstruction 
wrench'.  See example at

http://www.zorotools.com/g/00062629/k-G3335796?srccode=cii_10043468&cpncode=35-4981636-2&utm_source=channel_intelligence&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=shopzilla

This is the type wrench I use to get to those back carburetor nuts on my 
BJ8.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2012 9:49 PM
Subject: [Healeys] carbs


> years ago i bought a set of cheap C wrenches from harbor freight.  i have 
> only used the 1/2 inch one and only to take the bottom nuts off the rear 
> carb.  they work well for that.  once they are loose i can spin them off 
> with my fingers.
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 00:27:40 2012
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>, "m.fawcett"
	<m.fawcett@verizon.net>
References: <1353947108.24960.YahooMailNeo@web124705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><CAMoKZw_06GGrwG3enh9WWwv0pVK+NEijyVbTWnL-LsLo3T5wLQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 01:12:36 -0600
Cc: Spridgets List <spridgets@autox.team.net>,
	Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cheap tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I got a Crafstman set for about $40 at a Christmas sale about 35 years ago, 
the ratchet and screwdrivers have been replaced a few times, free, no 
questions asked, no paperwork required, the only thing that really wore out 
were the phillips heads.  The standard screwdrivers would probably have 
lasted if not used and chisels and the ratchets would have at least lasted 
longer if not used as hammers.

The wrenches and sockets have also been often used and sometimes abused, but 
are still in great shape.  Crafstman handtools seem like a heck of a deal to 
me.

Greg Lemon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 01:59:36 2012
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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 09:41:06 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1353969734.88293.YahooMailClassic@web162906.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 fuel pump banjos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You could try reinforced rubber washers. They are sometimes available in 
NL in  a cloth reinforced variety. If you have an old piece of leather 
you could cut washers out of that as well but soak them in light oil 
first. The orange brown fibre washers are available at most hardware or 
plumbers shop, these also need to be soaked in light oil.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 26-11-2012 23:42, Greg Mandas schreef:
> Bob,
>
> You're telling me they don't work as well.
> I'll try again tomorrow night.
> They were soaked when I spun up the pump and they leaked.
>
> gm
>
> --- On Sun, 11/25/12, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 fuel pump banjos
>> To: "Greg Mandas" <gmandas@yahoo.com>
>> Cc: "Team Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Date: Sunday, November 25, 2012, 11:32 PM
>> Flat side to the pump (detent side to
>> banjo bolt head).  Note the new pumps have a recess
>> (detent) in the pump housing
>> for an O-ring (no fiber washer necessary/allowed).
>>
>> The black fiber washers don't work as well as the older,
>> orange/brown-colored ones.  You might try softening
>> them up by
>> soaking in gas or light oil for a bit (you don't want them
>> squishy, however).
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 11/25/2012 8:03 PM, Greg Mandas wrote:
>>> List,
>>>
>>> The fuel pump banjos have a flat side and s detent
>> side. Am I right that the
>>> flat side goes next to the pump?
>>>
>>> Also, how do you get them to seal without crushing
>> them? The fibre gaskets
>>> from Moss aren't sealing well.
>>>
>>> Greg
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> *******************************************************************
>> Bob Spidell           San
>> Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>>
>> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 02:16:23 2012
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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 09:45:50 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20121126204553.ZQFXE.93914.root@pamxwww04-z01>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Carbs -- Install together or separately?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There are C shaped ring spanners, starter motor spanners as they are 
known in Europe, that can make life easier in these circumstances.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 27-11-2012 2:45, Tom Felts schreef:
> I jack up the car--lay on my back and reach up with a long open end 1/2" wrench to tighten that nut.  It is a pain in the butt.
>
> tom
>
> ---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> Greg -
>
> Unfortunately the BJ8 carbs must go on and off as a pair because of the
> throttle cross shaft slots into the throttle levers on the carb shafts.
>
> I have found that using the shortie box wrench (from craftsman pro) is the
> best way to get to those nuts under the rear carb.
>
> http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-11-pc-standard-full-polish-12/p-00944138000P?vName=Hand+Tools&cName=Wrenches&sName=Combination+Wrench+Sets&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=L1
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 6:47 AM, Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Do "You" remove/install the carbs on a BJ8 together as one unit or
>> separately?
>>
>> I do them together, but it's a bit difficult to get to the two bolts under
>> the rear carb.
>>
>> I'm assuming to replace them separately, you'd have to disassemble the
>> linkage and reset it afterwards.
>>
>> Greg
>> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 02:31:16 2012
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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 10:02:44 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1353947108.24960.YahooMailNeo@web124705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><CAMoKZw_06GGrwG3enh9WWwv0pVK+NEijyVbTWnL-LsLo3T5wLQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cheap tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Cheap tools can even be better than expensive professional tools, 
however they can be horrible as well. You simply cannot tell beforehand. 
Expensive professional tools are usually at least reasonable but do not 
be fooled, they sometimes are out of spec dimensionally  causing a bad 
fit on bolt heads and nuts and are not always hard enough. Channellock 
pliers e.g. had some hardness issues in the past. Snap-On is one of the 
best makes.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 27-11-2012 8:12, Greg Lemon schreef:
> I got a Crafstman set for about $40 at a Christmas sale about 35 years 
> ago, the ratchet and screwdrivers have been replaced a few times, 
> free, no questions asked, no paperwork required, the only thing that 
> really wore out were the phillips heads.  The standard screwdrivers 
> would probably have lasted if not used and chisels and the ratchets 
> would have at least lasted longer if not used as hammers.
>
> The wrenches and sockets have also been often used and sometimes 
> abused, but are still in great shape.  Crafstman handtools seem like a 
> heck of a deal to me.
>
> Greg Lemon
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
> -----
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2793 / Virusdatabase: 2629/5920 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 11/26/12
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 17:20:49 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Cc: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 fuel pump banjos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Greg -

It's good to soak them for a bit in either fuel or oil (if oil, no need to
over soak) then tighten them to about 20-30 ft lbs.  Drive the car for a
while then check for leaks then retighten until no leaks.  You do it this
way you'll never have a leak again.  No need for fancy-pants washers.

Best,

Alan


On Mon, Nov 26, 2012 at 12:03 PM, Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com> wrote:

> List,
>
> The fuel pump banjos have a flat side and s detent side. Am I right that
> the
> flat side goes next to the pump?
>
> Also, how do you get them to seal without crushing them? The fibre gaskets
> from Moss aren't sealing well.
>
> Greg
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 06:33:06 2012
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 13:05:19 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac3Mn9itKtyRnDhUSu6Yby+WVPz7/Q==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Girling Calipers Type 16??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've been looking into putting bigger calipers onto my MkII BT7 for a while.
(My existing ones have never been 100%. So, if replacing, why not go for
something a bit bigger?)

 

The more I dig around on the net, the more I discover and the more confusing
it all seems. I recall being told that callipers off old small Fords have
the same distance centre to centre for the mounting bolts (3.25in) as those
on my MkII BT7.

 

So, which Girling am I looking for? Not 16Ps as they are 3.5in.

Or, precisely which small Fords do I need to have disinterred?

Or, which Girling 16s have 3.25 gap and ,hopefully, Imperial threads etc?

 

Or has anyone done it in the past and can remember exactly what he did/what
he's got on his car now he's successfully done it?

 

Or....any ideas...
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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 06:36:10 -0800
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Girling Calipers Type 16??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Why not just add a power servo. Easy to do, use the Lockhead in line servo and
install in the same location as the BJ8.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 27, 2012, at 5:05 AM, "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:

> I've been looking into putting bigger calipers onto my MkII BT7 for a
while.
> (My existing ones have never been 100%. So, if replacing, why not go for
> something a bit bigger?)
>
>
>
> The more I dig around on the net, the more I discover and the more
confusing
> it all seems. I recall being told that callipers off old small Fords have
> the same distance centre to centre for the mounting bolts (3.25in) as those
> on my MkII BT7.
>
>
>
> So, which Girling am I looking for? Not 16Ps as they are 3.5in.
>
> Or, precisely which small Fords do I need to have disinterred?
>
> Or, which Girling 16s have 3.25 gap and ,hopefully, Imperial threads etc?
>
>
>
> Or has anyone done it in the past and can remember exactly what he did/what
> he's got on his car now he's successfully done it?
>
>
>
> Or....any ideas...
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 08:08:01 2012
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 14:46:00 -0000
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Subject: [Healeys] Girling 16 P/Servo
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Should have said that I already have a servo. Factory fitted. Unusual on
MkII BT7, I'm told, but not so very rare.

Simon
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References: <002c01cdccad$ec6baae0$c54300a0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 08:50:34 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>,
	"healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Girling 16 P/Servo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon,

I just did this conversion on my BJ7 ..... unsuccessfully.  I used
calipers from the Mecury Capri (Ford Capri in Europe), however when I had
everything completed I found to my dismay that the calipers are too wide and
interfere with my 72 spoke wire wheels.  These calipers were made by ATE, not
Girling, so I'm not sure if the Girling ones would be any narrower.  At any
rate, the calipers with the 3.25" distance between mounting ears are the
Girling Type 16M ("M" for metric)  Go on eBay UK and type in "Girling Type
16M" and you'll find the cars to which they were fitted (Escorts, Cortinas,
etc)  They even sell brand new castings relatively inexpensively, but I bet
they are not made in the UK.  From my research, this place seems to be popular
to pick up refurbished ones:  http://www.biggred.co.uk/  Because they are
metric calipers the mounting holes require a bolt with a metric shank and an
Imperial thread.  These were used on the 72-76 TR6 and
 you should be able to get these fro Moss Europe.  Also you will need to make
up a new brake pipe to mate the metric fitting in the caliper to the brake
hose.  The 16M caliper will also allow you to use the thicker late BJ8 brake
disc.  You will  also need a larger master cylinder to make up for the greater
fluid capacity of the calipers, but I can't say for sure the size.  First
thing you want to check, though is the caliper width will work with your
wheels.

Happy Healeydays,

 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My
Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Simon Lachlan
<simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday,
November 27, 2012 9:46 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Girling 16 P/Servo
 
Should have
said that I already have a servo. Factory fitted. Unusual on
MkII BT7, I'm
told, but not so very rare.

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 13:02:26 2012
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From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net, simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
References: <001b01cdcc9f$da875120$8f95f360$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	more information
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Girling Calipers Type 16??
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Simon, Magnus Karlsson has written an excellent article on brake 
modifications that covers the current discussion, It is on my website at 
the link below.
Regards
Larry Varley
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/brakes.pdf
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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 16:08:32 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] What have I got?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Since my car has gone (sold), I've been going through some leftover parts
and stuff. I found a "bag" that I cannot identify. It is flat and about 13
inches wide by 21.5-22 inches long. Has a flap on the long end that folds
over about 6" on the long end with two tie ribbons. Material is a black oil
cloth like material. Anyone have any ideas what it is/was for?

Bob Johnson
used to be BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 15:01:15 2012
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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 16:37:03 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>, Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] What have I got?
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds exactly like the jack bag for my 66 E-Type---so---maybe the same for the Healey??  Although I've never had a jack bag for my BJ8 of 33 years.

tom
---- Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Since my car has gone (sold), I've been going through some leftover parts
and stuff. I found a "bag" that I cannot identify. It is flat and about 13
inches wide by 21.5-22 inches long. Has a flap on the long end that folds
over about 6" on the long end with two tie ribbons. Material is a black oil
cloth like material. Anyone have any ideas what it is/was for?

Bob Johnson
used to be BJ8
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 15:02:13 2012
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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 22:41:17 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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References: <CAJTyXLSdwGkd5geO8Og7PRX=4Ge70jKTmOmEASv7FXj+_Yk8OQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] What have I got?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Probably for either the jack, full/half tonneau or side screens.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 27-11-2012 22:08, Bob Johnson schreef:
> Since my car has gone (sold), I've been going through some leftover parts
> and stuff. I found a "bag" that I cannot identify. It is flat and about 13
> inches wide by 21.5-22 inches long. Has a flap on the long end that folds
> over about 6" on the long end with two tie ribbons. Material is a black oil
> cloth like material. Anyone have any ideas what it is/was for?
>
> Bob Johnson
> used to be BJ8
> _______________________________________________
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>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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From: "Dan Stromquist" <dan@warner-associates.com>
To: "'Bob Johnson'" <bjsbj8@gmail.com>, "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAJTyXLSdwGkd5geO8Og7PRX=4Ge70jKTmOmEASv7FXj+_Yk8OQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 16:03:00 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] What have I got?
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Tonneau cover or tool kit bag.


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 3:09 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] What have I got?

Since my car has gone (sold), I've been going through some leftover parts
and stuff. I found a "bag" that I cannot identify. It is flat and about 13
inches wide by 21.5-22 inches long. Has a flap on the long end that folds
over about 6" on the long end with two tie ribbons. Material is a black oil
cloth like material. Anyone have any ideas what it is/was for?

Bob Johnson
used to be BJ8
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan@warner-associates.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 15:31:54 2012
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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 17:07:55 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] What have I got?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had another bag that I considered the tool bag. Roughly the same size
that opened on the long side. I think that one atually had a tool or two in
it when I bought the car, but they were not correct Healey tools. I don't
think that a tonneau could be forced into this bag. The tonneau bows had
there own separate armacord fitted carrier bag (went with car). Jack bag is
a possibility, but that round jack would look odd in a flat bag.

What I did not say in the original post was that the bag is black and the
fabric side is dark green.

Still wondering,

Bob Johnson
On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 4:37 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> Sounds exactly like the jack bag for my 66 E-Type---so---maybe the same
> for the Healey??  Although I've never had a jack bag for my BJ8 of 33 years.
>
> tom
> ---- Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> =============
>  Since my car has gone (sold), I've been going through some leftover parts
> and stuff. I found a "bag" that I cannot identify. It is flat and about 13
> inches wide by 21.5-22 inches long. Has a flap on the long end that folds
> over about 6" on the long end with two tie ribbons. Material is a black oil
> cloth like material. Anyone have any ideas what it is/was for?
>
> Bob Johnson
> used to be BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 15:35:10 2012
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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 17:14:43 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] What have I got?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If anyone wants a picture, I can do that. Dallas sounds very certain. I
wouldn't argue against that idea.

Bob Johnson

On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 5:07 PM, Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> I had another bag that I considered the tool bag. Roughly the same size
> that opened on the long side. I think that one atually had a tool or two in
> it when I bought the car, but they were not correct Healey tools. I don't
> think that a tonneau could be forced into this bag. The tonneau bows had
> there own separate armacord fitted carrier bag (went with car). Jack bag is
> a possibility, but that round jack would look odd in a flat bag.
>
> What I did not say in the original post was that the bag is black and the
> fabric side is dark green.
>
> Still wondering,
>
> Bob Johnson
>  On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 4:37 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>wrote:
>
>> Sounds exactly like the jack bag for my 66 E-Type---so---maybe the same
>> for the Healey??  Although I've never had a jack bag for my BJ8 of 33 years.
>>
>> tom
>> ---- Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> =============
>>  Since my car has gone (sold), I've been going through some leftover
>> parts
>> and stuff. I found a "bag" that I cannot identify. It is flat and about 13
>> inches wide by 21.5-22 inches long. Has a flap on the long end that folds
>> over about 6" on the long end with two tie ribbons. Material is a black
>> oil
>> cloth like material. Anyone have any ideas what it is/was for?
>>
>> Bob Johnson
>> used to be BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 16:04:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Carbs -- Install together or separately?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'll have to try  it from underneath.  I'm always laying on top with my arm
bent at an odd angle.

--- On Mon, 11/26/12, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Carbs -- Install together or separately?
> To: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com>, "Greg Mandas"
<gmandas@yahoo.com>
> Cc: "Team Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, November 26, 2012, 8:45 PM
> I jack up the car--lay on my back and
> reach up with a long open end 1/2" wrench to tighten that
> nut.  It is a pain in the butt.
>
> tom
>
> ---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> =============
> Greg -
>
> Unfortunately the BJ8 carbs must go on and off as a pair
> because of the
> throttle cross shaft slots into the throttle levers on the
> carb shafts.
>
> I have found that using the shortie box wrench (from
> craftsman pro) is the
> best way to get to those nuts under the rear carb.
>
>
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-11-pc-standard-full-polish-12
/p-00944138000P?vName=Hand+Tools&cName=Wrenches&sName=Combination+Wrench+Sets
&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=L1
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 6:47 AM, Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Do "You" remove/install the carbs on a BJ8 together as
> one unit or
> > separately?
> >
> > I do them together, but it's a bit difficult to get to
> the two bolts under
> > the rear carb.
> >
> > I'm assuming to replace them separately, you'd have to
> disassemble the
> > linkage and reset it afterwards.
> >
> > Greg
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 17:12:19 2012
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Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 08:12:10 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Girling Calipers Type 16??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon -

Steve Gerow just recently posted his pics of a Toyota caliper set that fits
right up to the disc with no modifications:

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-conversion.shtml
http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_discs

That being said, you can get better performance simply by going to better
pads (I like to use Redstuff pads) and installing a servo.

Best,

Alan


On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 9:05 PM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> wrote:

> I've been looking into putting bigger calipers onto my MkII BT7 for a
> while.
> (My existing ones have never been 100%. So, if replacing, why not go for
> something a bit bigger?)
>
>
>
> The more I dig around on the net, the more I discover and the more
> confusing
> it all seems. I recall being told that callipers off old small Fords have
> the same distance centre to centre for the mounting bolts (3.25in) as those
> on my MkII BT7.
>
>
>
> So, which Girling am I looking for? Not 16Ps as they are 3.5in.
>
> Or, precisely which small Fords do I need to have disinterred?
>
> Or, which Girling 16s have 3.25 gap and ,hopefully, Imperial threads etc?
>
>
>
> Or has anyone done it in the past and can remember exactly what he did/what
> he's got on his car now he's successfully done it?
>
>
>
> Or....any ideas...
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From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 16:27:29 -0800
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Girling Calipers Type 16??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The Toyota calipers will only fit the BJ8 spindles.

The main question is what are you wanting out of your brakes. If your  
original calipers and servo are working correctly you should have  
lots of brakes. Definitly enough for the car.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Nov 27, 2012, at 4:12 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

> Simon -
>
> Steve Gerow just recently posted his pics of a Toyota caliper set  
> that fits
> right up to the disc with no modifications:
>
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-conversion.shtml
> http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_discs
>
> That being said, you can get better performance simply by going to  
> better
> pads (I like to use Redstuff pads) and installing a servo.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 9:05 PM, Simon Lachlan  
> <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
>> wrote:
>
>> I've been looking into putting bigger calipers onto my MkII BT7 for a
>> while.
>> (My existing ones have never been 100%. So, if replacing, why not  
>> go for
>> something a bit bigger?)
>>
>>
>>
>> The more I dig around on the net, the more I discover and the more
>> confusing
>> it all seems. I recall being told that callipers off old small  
>> Fords have
>> the same distance centre to centre for the mounting bolts (3.25in)  
>> as those
>> on my MkII BT7.
>>
>>
>>
>> So, which Girling am I looking for? Not 16Ps as they are 3.5in.
>>
>> Or, precisely which small Fords do I need to have disinterred?
>>
>> Or, which Girling 16s have 3.25 gap and ,hopefully, Imperial  
>> threads etc?
>>
>>
>>
>> Or has anyone done it in the past and can remember exactly what he  
>> did/what
>> he's got on his car now he's successfully done it?
>>
>>
>>
>> Or....any ideas...
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 18:56:31 2012
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From: Phil Jarrett <pjarrett14@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 20:55:59 -0500
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Rocker Arm / Shaft Clearance BJ7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The easiest solution and probably the most economical fix would have been to
purchase a rebuilt rocker arm assembly from Bob at  Auto Farm. Since he is
close by 2 days and I would have it, but what fun is that.
I have a new DW rocker shaft the rocker pads were reground by valve train
industries I have .0025 clearance between the shaft and 10 of the rocker arms
, the last 2 are almost 3 thou. The manual says 1/2 to 2 1/2 thou. I have new
bushings and familiar with the time consuming process . Should I re-bush or am
I good  to go.
Thxs Phil

Sent from my iPhone
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 27 23:16:39 2012
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Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 23:16:11 -0700
From: Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Concours judging
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

At what events is concours judging available?

My wife made me buy her a Sprite, and she's making me keep it stock,
so I figured that when I was done (*keeping my fingers crossed to have
it done by March 15th*) I might as well get it judged.

Cheers!
Jody

-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 03:26:41 2012
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References: <CAO2WPFboJ+LHt=N3y3vSUe=Gd6Auj-CU5KWODK0iw-YgkfNCKA@mail.gmail.com>
From: George MARINOS <gmari2@verizon.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 05:23:23 -0500
To: Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours judging
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Jody,
Concours events must be sanctioned by the independent concours committee.
Independent means the committee has no club affiliation but is comprised of
volunteer experts who maintain, publish and update the Concours guidelines.
Historically there have been 3 sanctioned concours judging events a year.  The
judging has been during the annual meets of the 3 major Healey Clubs.  To
enter a car for judging, please contact Mike Osipik for the most current
guideline version.  For Mikes contact information, google austin healey
concours registry.  Keep in mind that Concours is more than keeping the car
stock.
George

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 28, 2012, at 1:16 AM, Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com> wrote:

> At what events is concours judging available?
>
> My wife made me buy her a Sprite, and she's making me keep it stock,
> so I figured that when I was done (*keeping my fingers crossed to have
> it done by March 15th*) I might as well get it judged.
>
> Cheers!
> Jody
>
> --
> http://www.theymightberacing.com/
>
> 1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
> 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
> 1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
> "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
> from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
> disinclination to do so."
> --Douglas Adams
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmari2@verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 03:41:36 2012
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From: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
To: "Jody Kerr" <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
References: <CAO2WPFboJ+LHt=N3y3vSUe=Gd6Auj-CU5KWODK0iw-YgkfNCKA@mail.gmail.com>
	<C54D3314-49CE-4F97-BEB9-0385187FECC1@verizon.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 05:41:12 -0500
	FILETIME=[E5F35990:01CDCD54]
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours judging
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike can be reached at Mike Osipik, 39 East 55th Terrace, Kansas City, MO
64113 or mikeosipik@earthlink.net
GaryB

-----Original Message-----
From: George MARINOS
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 5:23 AM
To: Jody Kerr
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours judging

Jody,
Concours events must be sanctioned by the independent concours committee.
Independent means the committee has no club affiliation but is comprised of
volunteer experts who maintain, publish and update the Concours guidelines.
Historically there have been 3 sanctioned concours judging events a year.
The
judging has been during the annual meets of the 3 major Healey Clubs.  To
enter a car for judging, please contact Mike Osipik for the most current
guideline version.  For Mikes contact information, google austin healey
concours registry.  Keep in mind that Concours is more than keeping the car
stock.
George

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 28, 2012, at 1:16 AM, Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com> wrote:

> At what events is concours judging available?
>
> My wife made me buy her a Sprite, and she's making me keep it stock,
> so I figured that when I was done (*keeping my fingers crossed to have
> it done by March 15th*) I might as well get it judged.
>
> Cheers!
> Jody
>
> --
> http://www.theymightberacing.com/
>
> 1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
> 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
> 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
> 1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
> "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
> from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
> disinclination to do so."
> --Douglas Adams
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmari2@verizon.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gbrierton@hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 09:23:15 2012
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From: Mark Schneider <mandmschneider@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 08:22:33 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator dash indicator
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On the dashboard of the BJ8 there are two small aluminum cylinders capped by
green plastic arrows. The cylinder portion goes behind the wood of the dash.
The threaded cap (with arrow) secures it in place from the cockpit side. I
need a replacement source. I know there is one in the UK but I need the
company name and means of contact.

Marks 3
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 09:43:11 2012
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References: <860F2DE5-D2B2-46CA-8EC9-18B312A18928@comcast.net>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 08:39:22 -0800
To: Mark Schneider <mandmschneider@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator dash indicator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark, we have them in stock.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Nov 28, 2012, at 8:22 AM, Mark Schneider wrote:

> On the dashboard of the BJ8 there are two small aluminum cylinders  
> capped by
> green plastic arrows. The cylinder portion goes behind the wood of  
> the dash.
> The threaded cap (with arrow) secures it in place from the cockpit  
> side. I
> need a replacement source. I know there is one in the UK but I need  
> the
> company name and means of contact.
>
> Marks 3
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 12:54:18 2012
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 05:45:55 +1000
From: Noel and Helen standfast <hstandfa@iinet.net.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
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To: Healeys list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage trim
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Hi listers

I'm trying to contact heritage trim in Vancouver and can't make contact 
by email or phone, can anyone advise whether they'd be on holidays or 
having communication problems?

thanks


Noel Standfast
Brisbane Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 13:39:46 2012
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From: Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 13:31:09 -0700
	FILETIME=[4CC4C990:01CDCDA7]
Subject: [Healeys] I need a Hardtop Seal
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Hello Group,  Anyone have just the rubber for the rear window?  Mine got
scrtewed up and I don't want to buy the whole kit again. Cheers Henry
Morrison, Albuquerque, NM
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 15:27:49 2012
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Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 17:22:10 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I know it is a long time off, but I'm interested in knowing if there are listers who may be going and who might be passing thru or near Pittsburgh, Pa when you do.  I wouldn't mind tagging along part way with a group or another Healey, and in getting some suggestions on off-interstate scenic side roads to get there---places to stop, etc.

Thanks
tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 15:43:03 2012
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From: "Richard McGavern" <rmcgaver@rochester.rr.com>
To: "'Tom Felts'" <tomfelts@windstream.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20121128172210.L132P.136453.root@pamxwww05-z01>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 17:35:22 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec
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What's [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec?
Thanks 
Dick

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 5:22 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec

I know it is a long time off, but I'm interested in knowing if there are
listers who may be going and who might be passing thru or near Pittsburgh,
Pa when you do.  I wouldn't mind tagging along part way with a group or
another Healey, and in getting some suggestions on off-interstate scenic
side roads to get there---places to stop, etc.

Thanks
tom
$12.75
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2629/5425 - Release Date: 11/28/12
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 15:47:52 2012
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Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 17:47:39 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Richard McGavern <rmcgaver@rochester.rr.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The Austin Healey Club Conclave for 2013---actually in Charlevoix, Quebec----June 23 - 28 2013.

tom
---- Richard McGavern <rmcgaver@rochester.rr.com> wrote: 

=============
What's [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec?
Thanks 
Dick

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 5:22 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec

I know it is a long time off, but I'm interested in knowing if there are
listers who may be going and who might be passing thru or near Pittsburgh,
Pa when you do.  I wouldn't mind tagging along part way with a group or
another Healey, and in getting some suggestions on off-interstate scenic
side roads to get there---places to stop, etc.

Thanks
tom
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rmcgaver@rochester.rr.com

-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2629/5425 - Release Date: 11/28/12
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 15:08:25 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust and muffler clamp seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What are people using to seal the exhaust pipes to the muffler, if 
anything other than clamps. A web search lists products like Permatex 
1000 and one forum suggested Acoustic Seal from NAPA auto parts.

John
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 16:29:59 2012
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Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 17:23:03 -0600
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust and muffler clamp seal
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<< On 11/28/2012 5:08 PM, john spaur wrote:
What are people using to seal the exhaust pipes to the muffler, if 
anything
other than clamps. >>

As long as you have a profit and use proper clamps John, nothing 
should be needed.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 16:44:45 2012
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Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 18:39:53 -0500
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec
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Dick,

Austin-Healey Club of America's annual meet: 
http://www.conclavecharlevoix.org/

Tom,

Some of us from Indy are going; haven't decided on the route yet.I'm 
leaning towards going through upstate NY as I grew up there; but we did 
that for Vermont and Kingston.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 11/28/2012 05:35 PM, Richard McGavern wrote:
> What's [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec?
> Thanks
> Dick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Tom Felts
> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 5:22 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec
>
> I know it is a long time off, but I'm interested in knowing if there are
> listers who may be going and who might be passing thru or near Pittsburgh,
> Pa when you do.  I wouldn't mind tagging along part way with a group or
> another Healey, and in getting some suggestions on off-interstate scenic
> side roads to get there---places to stop, etc.
>
> Thanks
> tom
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 17:00:33 2012
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <003401cdcdb8$a7698780$f63c9680$@rr.com>
	<20121128174739.TCZ4J.136615.root@pamxwww05-z01>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec
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Tom, I may be going with some other BJ8 traveling companions from down here.
We could meet you someplace in eastern PA (assuming we go).  We've been
talking about it, but not sure yet.  If we go, we will have pre-arranged
stopping points for lodging.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 5:48 PM
To: Richard McGavern; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec

The Austin Healey Club Conclave for 2013---actually in Charlevoix,
Quebec----June 23 - 28 2013.

tom
---- Richard McGavern <rmcgaver@rochester.rr.com> wrote: 

=============
What's [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec?
Thanks
Dick

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 5:22 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 13, Quebec

I know it is a long time off, but I'm interested in knowing if there are
listers who may be going and who might be passing thru or near Pittsburgh,
Pa when you do.  I wouldn't mind tagging along part way with a group or
another Healey, and in getting some suggestions on off-interstate scenic
side roads to get there---places to stop, etc.

Thanks
tom
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-----
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 17:32:15 2012
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 00:22:30 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust and muffler clamp seal
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I've had some success sealing minor leaks with Permatex High Temp silicone (the copper-colored stuff). 


Bob 



-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 3:08:25 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust and muffler clamp seal 

What are people using to seal the exhaust pipes to the muffler, if 
anything other than clamps. A web search lists products like Permatex 
1000 and one forum suggested Acoustic Seal from NAPA auto parts. 

John 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 18:01:58 2012
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Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 19:01:48 -0600
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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	<50B69CD7.7040006@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust and muffler clamp seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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<< On 11/28/2012 5:23 PM, " Just Brits " Shop wrote:

... have a profit and use proper clamps John, ...  >>

SHOULD have been:

... have a proper fit (pipe to downpipe <G>) and use proper clamps John, ...

Sorry for any cornfussion ! ! !   And HTHs !

Ed

PS:  Just FAT fingers connected to fat head ........
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 18:35:16 2012
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From: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
To: <rmcgaver@rochester.rr.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 20:34:37 -0500
	FILETIME=[B52963E0:01CDCDD1]
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 2013, Quebec
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Go here...

http://www.conclavecharlevoix.org/

GaryB
AHCA Prez
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 20:52:52 2012
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

a while back i rebuilt a PBR servo with parts we got from down under.  it works but doesn't.  when you press the pedal, the servo appears to work OK, but then the pedal rides back up and the servo drops out and you need to push hard to stop.  i thought it would work out after a while, but now i need to go back into it an make it right.  i suspect the air valve, but does anybody have any ideas.  it is simple system, and seems pretty rugged, but something appears to be sticking.  a beer to the winning contestant. hjim
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 22:00:23 2012
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From: "Elton Schulz" <eschulz@frontiernet.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 23:59:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Wiring at the Fuse Block on a BJ7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Fellow Listers,
In my reading of the wiring diagram for a BJ7, it appears that the 50 amp fuse
protects only the two horns. Am I correct? And if so, why is a 50amp fuse
needed? This seems a bit much. Also I'm considering putting a fuse in the
white wire from the key switch that goes to term A3 on the fuse block to
protect the white wire circuits. Is this a good idea?
Thanks for your help.
Elton
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 22:12:07 2012
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Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 21:00:56 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 4 row radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I sent a picture of a four row copper radiator core to John Sim. He 
may not know this yet but I am sure he will let us know when it is 
posted to his web site.

Hey John.... Your great!!! Don't know what we would do without you.

John Spaur
San Jose, CA
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 22:56:44 2012
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 06:55:31 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20121128150418.0206b130@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust and muffler clamp seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

No sealant is theoretically required, however in the real world some 
sealant may be neccesary. I have always used the Holts stuff. If you do 
not need any do use some copaslip or similar anti seizing compound, even 
on stainless steel items.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 29-11-2012 0:08, john spaur schreef:
> What are people using to seal the exhaust pipes to the muffler, if 
> anything other than clamps. A web search lists products like Permatex 
> 1000 and one forum suggested Acoustic Seal from NAPA auto parts.
>
> John
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 28 23:27:15 2012
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Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2012 22:22:51 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Elton Schulz <eschulz@frontiernet.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiring at the Fuse Block on a BJ7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Its a 30 amp US fuse I believe. Yes putting other fuses in line on lamp
circuits is a good idea

I Erbs
Portland, OR
 On Nov 28, 2012 8:59 PM, "Elton Schulz" <eschulz@frontiernet.net> wrote:

> Fellow Listers,
> In my reading of the wiring diagram for a BJ7, it appears that the 50 amp
> fuse
> protects only the two horns. Am I correct? And if so, why is a 50amp fuse
> needed? This seems a bit much. Also I'm considering putting a fuse in the
> white wire from the key switch that goes to term A3 on the fuse block to
> protect the white wire circuits. Is this a good idea?
> Thanks for your help.
> Elton
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 07:12:58 2012
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20121129035232.13127.qmail@server278.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 07:12:05 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac3N5QGA8UvASaYVQPaGHuGsaPqekQAVmf1A
Subject: Re: [Healeys] PBR servo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Are you sure you have it plumbed in the right direction? It will sorta work
if backwards..
Dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeymanjim@hansencc.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 8:53 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] PBR servo

a while back i rebuilt a PBR servo with parts we got from down under.  it
works but doesn't.  when you press the pedal, the servo appears to work OK,
but then the pedal rides back up and the servo drops out and you need to
push hard to stop.  i thought it would work out after a while, but now i
need to go back into it an make it right.  i suspect the air valve, but does
anybody have any ideas.  it is simple system, and seems pretty rugged, but
something appears to be sticking.  a beer to the winning contestant. hjim
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 08:27:10 2012
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References: <9762730D400C481BB33EC035A3B69069@655vb01>
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 07:20:51 -0800
To: Elton Schulz <eschulz@frontiernet.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiring at the Fuse Block on a BJ7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes there is a 50 amp fuse for the horns, they have a very large draw
requiring a larger fuse. Do not install a fuse in the white wire from the
ignition switch. If it was to blow you would loose all power and engine would
stall. If you want to add some fuses to some non protected circuits you need
to install 3 inline fuses.
     1. The red wire coming from the back of the headlight switch
     2. The white wire at the connector behind the intake manifold going under
the car to the fuel pump
      3.  The white wire to the overdrive relay

The rest of the harness is already protected.

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 28, 2012, at 8:59 PM, "Elton Schulz" <eschulz@frontiernet.net> wrote:

> Fellow Listers,
> In my reading of the wiring diagram for a BJ7, it appears that the 50 amp
fuse
> protects only the two horns. Am I correct? And if so, why is a 50amp fuse
> needed? This seems a bit much. Also I'm considering putting a fuse in the
> white wire from the key switch that goes to term A3 on the fuse block to
> protect the white wire circuits. Is this a good idea?
> Thanks for your help.
> Elton
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 09:48:51 2012
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 11:47:58 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] SU Fuel Pump Repair
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got three fuel pumps left over after selling the car. Two need to be
rebuilt. Does anyone know if there is a kit for rebuilding the electrics
that ignores polarity and if so, who has them?

Bob Johnson
did have a BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 11:32:41 2012
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Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Fuel Pump Repair
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Bi-polarity transils work as well, if not better, than diodes or caps. This guy sells them pre-wired with terminals (transils are just a few cents, but for the money these are worth it IMO): 

http://ttypes.org/ttt2/extend-the-life-of-your-su-fuel-pump-fit-a-transil 

The rest of the electrics--points, etc.--are not polarity sensitive (we are talking points-type and not SS-type, right?). 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


I've got three fuel pumps left over after selling the car. Two need to be 
rebuilt. Does anyone know if there is a kit for rebuilding the electrics 
that ignores polarity and if so, who has them? 

Bob Johnson 
did have a BJ8 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 11:51:24 2012
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Fuel Pump Repair
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To be exactly correct, the solenoid--aka the pump 'body'--may have polarity. Some have red and black leads, some just have black. In theory, the pump works 'better' if the polarity of the solenoid is respected, but I don't know exactly why. The solenoid is wire-wound and--like a motor or generator--may take a 'set' after being one polarity for a while. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----

Bi-polarity transils work as well, if not better, than diodes or caps. This guy sells them pre-wired with terminals (transils are just a few cents, but for the money these are worth it IMO): 

http://ttypes.org/ttt2/extend-the-life-of-your-su-fuel-pump-fit-a-transil 

The rest of the electrics--points, etc.--are not polarity sensitive (we are talking points-type and not SS-type, right?). 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message ----- 


I've got three fuel pumps left over after selling the car. Two need to be 
rebuilt. Does anyone know if there is a kit for rebuilding the electrics 
that ignores polarity and if so, who has them? 

Bob Johnson 
did have a BJ8 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 12:48:39 2012
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	<1310557583.674357.1354213437447.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 14:45:11 -0500
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Fuel Pump Repair
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Would these work across distributor points?

- Tom


On Thu, Nov 29, 2012 at 1:23 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Bi-polarity transils work as well, if not better, than diodes or caps.
> This guy sells them pre-wired with terminals (transils are just a few
> cents, but for the money these are worth it IMO):
>
> http://ttypes.org/ttt2/extend-the-life-of-your-su-fuel-pump-fit-a-transil
>
> The rest of the electrics--points, etc.--are not polarity sensitive (we
> are talking points-type and not SS-type, right?).
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> I've got three fuel pumps left over after selling the car. Two need to be
> rebuilt. Does anyone know if there is a kit for rebuilding the electrics
> that ignores polarity and if so, who has them?
>
> Bob Johnson
> did have a BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 12:52:42 2012
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 19:52:22 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
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Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Fuel Pump Repair
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I've wondered that myself. Theoretically, yes, they would help suppress arcing across the points. However, I believe the capacitor ('condenser') in points system also affects timing. 

Short answer: don't know. It would actually be pretty easy to test, though; just replace the condenser with a transil. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom" <ah3000me@gmail.com> 
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> 
Cc: "Bob Johnson" <bjsbj8@gmail.com>, "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2012 11:45:11 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Fuel Pump Repair 

Would these work across distributor points? 

- Tom 




On Thu, Nov 29, 2012 at 1:23 PM, Bob Spidell < bspidell@comcast.net > wrote: 


Bi-polarity transils work as well, if not better, than diodes or caps. This guy sells them pre-wired with terminals (transils are just a few cents, but for the money these are worth it IMO): 

http://ttypes.org/ttt2/extend-the-life-of-your-su-fuel-pump-fit-a-transil 

The rest of the electrics--points, etc.--are not polarity sensitive (we are talking points-type and not SS-type, right?). 


Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 



----- Original Message ----- 


I've got three fuel pumps left over after selling the car. Two need to be 
rebuilt. Does anyone know if there is a kit for rebuilding the electrics 
that ignores polarity and if so, who has them? 

Bob Johnson 
did have a BJ8 
_______________________________________________ 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 

Healeys@autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 15:26:58 2012
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 14:25:02 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] classics and Hurricane sandy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hurricane Sandy took a devastating toll on many residents of the East
Coast. Classic car owners recount how they survived the super storm, how
their classic cars fared, and their plans for rebuilding their lives
*http://tinyurl.com/csmrqhp*
*From hagerty's email newsletter. *
*I'm greateful to beliving at 750' elevation. Flloding from heavy storms
expected inmy region, but we will be safe.
*Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 15:55:54 2012
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 17:55:20 -0500
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
References: <CAJTyXLQWKF0nw2r7_6rmAmBsZTNDdjMLzw=_bd2d5h9Q5NUDdA@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Fuel Pump Repair
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Bob,

You can order rebuild kits from the current manufacturer - Burlen Fuel 
Systems in the UK.  They also sell an electronics upgrade kit (polarity 
specific), but I've not had much luck with it - probably me.

Dave DuBois rebuilds SU pumps with an electronic circuit of his design 
that replaces the points and condenser/diode but maintains the wonderful 
tick, tick, tick sound.  His pumps are polarity sensitive, but he'll 
swap the jumpers for you.

Burlen: http://www.sucarb.co.uk/
Dave: http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/index.html

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 11/29/2012 11:47 AM, Bob Johnson wrote:
> I've got three fuel pumps left over after selling the car. Two need to be
> rebuilt. Does anyone know if there is a kit for rebuilding the electrics
> that ignores polarity and if so, who has them?
>
> Bob Johnson
> did have a BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 17:45:26 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Archive search does not work
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Anyone else having problems with the archive search.

This is the link I have been using for years which still come up okay


but when one does a search this appears, which has been ongoing now for over a
week.  It happens on three different PC's.  What gives?

*****************************************************************************
*********************
Server error

The server encountered an internal error and was unable to complete your
request.
Error message:
Premature end of script headers: namazu.cgi
If you think this is a server error, please contact the webmaster.

Error 500
www.team.net
Thu Nov 29 17:39:05 2012
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 17:56:22 2012
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 19:45:48 -0500
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Cc: John Harper <100reg@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [Healeys] #92 BN1 For Sale
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone looking for a very early BN1?  NFI.

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C348727

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M  White/Black
'56 100 M  Florida Green/OEW
'62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
'77 450 SL (wife's - honest!)
Healey100M@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 18:01:25 2012
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 18:02:16 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8CF9CAB0CE72CF6-226C-31A73@webmail-m141.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Archive search does not work
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You mean it hasn't worked since I sent off that message about the major 
server meltdown
and how I cobbled together a quick fix and it would take me a while to 
get everything
working again?

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 18:17:39 2012
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell@earthlink.net>, "Bob Johnson" <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 19:17:18 -0600
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Fuel Pump Repair
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I will give Dave Dubois a plug, I didn't send my pump to him, but when my 
100 pump went on the fritz we ended up in contact and he walked me through a 
rebuild and sent me  a little electronic dohickey that replaced the 
capacitator or diode or whatever it was that is intended to keep the points 
from arcing and pitting,

Know his way around the pump, very helpful.  I have also had good experience 
ordering from Burlen.

Greg Lemon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 18:33:37 2012
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Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 17:33:14 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Ground clearance
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

At what point on the car is the frame ground clearance measured from?

The frame rails taper and the sump hangs down below the frame.

Thank you,

John Spaur
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 18:43:54 2012
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	<50B80598.2000205@bradakis.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 17:42:22 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Archive search does not work
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes since then

I Erbs
Portland, OR
 On Nov 29, 2012 5:02 PM, "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> You mean it hasn't worked since I sent off that message about the major
> server meltdown
> and how I cobbled together a quick fix and it would take me a while to get
> everything
> working again?
>
> mjb.
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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> options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 29 22:37:49 2012
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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Archive search does not work
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Guess the "Rule" deleting my posts or PMs works too well, Mark <G> ! ! !

On 11/14/2012 at 11:19 AM, I wrote in a PM:

<quote>
Mark, a visit to:

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spridgets

Then:
To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the 
Spridgets Archives <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/spridgets/>.
goes to what I suspect is OLD pre-MailMan Archives as there is NO 
"Search" function.

Ed

PS:  Sorry, but for the life of me cannot recall OLD program package 
<G> <F> <G>
</quote>

Would think that leads to something being broke ? ! ?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 30 02:42:57 2012
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From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 10:39:44 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac3OllAWXZ2ZwSVtSdKABY1Esb05DA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heritage trim
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just a thought, but I know that Geoff, son or Rich Chrysler, who worked at
Heritage has left.

He started his own business called Rightway Heritage Trimming.
His add is on the club page:
http://www.britishcarcouncil.com/coms/octcom2012.pdf

Maybe worth contacting for trim?

Heritage itself has been always VERY difficult to reach...

Best Regards,

Tadek




Message: 1
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 05:45:55 +1000
From: Noel and Helen standfast <hstandfa@iinet.net.au>
To: Healeys list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage trim

Hi listers

I'm trying to contact heritage trim in Vancouver and can't make contact by
email or phone, can anyone advise whether they'd be on holidays or having
communication problems?

thanks


Noel Standfast
Brisbane Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 30 08:44:49 2012
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Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 09:44:18 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heritage trim
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If Geoff is anything like his dad I would buy from him in a heartbeat.
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tadeusz Malkiewicz
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2012 3:40 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heritage trim

Just a thought, but I know that Geoff, son or Rich Chrysler, who worked at
Heritage has left.

He started his own business called Rightway Heritage Trimming.
His add is on the club page:
http://www.britishcarcouncil.com/coms/octcom2012.pdf

Maybe worth contacting for trim?

Heritage itself has been always VERY difficult to reach...

Best Regards,

Tadek




Message: 1
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 05:45:55 +1000
From: Noel and Helen standfast <hstandfa@iinet.net.au>
To: Healeys list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage trim

Hi listers

I'm trying to contact heritage trim in Vancouver and can't make contact by
email or phone, can anyone advise whether they'd be on holidays or having
communication problems?

thanks


Noel Standfast
Brisbane Australia
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 30 08:59:24 2012
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 10:58:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Heritage trim
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Geoff has found full-time employment for the time being at Diamond Trim in
Aurora, Ontario. Very long commute, though, so he's not sure how long it will
last.

Peter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 30 10:29:23 2012
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
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Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 09:23:41 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?BN1_on_eBay?=
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This car used to be part of our local LA-area LBC crowd and I have seen it up close and personal many times - it is a nice clean car and deserves to find a good home:
ebay item #221158227900


-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 30 10:34:28 2012
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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heritage trim
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<< On 11/30/2012 9:44 AM, Dan Stromquist wrote:

If Geoff is anything like his dad I would buy from him in a heartbeat. >>

He is, Dan  8-)   ! ! !

It was told to me MANY years ago that Groff DID 99+% of the Healey Orders that Heritage received ! ! !  Sources were very reliable  :-X  ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www,justbrits.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 30 10:43:40 2012
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From: Kenny J <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: Healeys Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 09:39:37 -0800
	FILETIME=[AB36FB30:01CDCF21]
Subject: [Healeys] Heat shield kit BJ8
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I have a heat shield kit for a BJ8 for sale or trade for a kit for a BT7.   I
bought the heat shield kit a couple years ago from AH Spares in England.  I
recently realized it is for a BJ8 and not for my BT7.  It will cost too much
to ship it back to England.  I'm in the SF Bay Area.   Contact me off the
list.  Thanks. Kenny'61 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 30 10:45:35 2012
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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 on eBay
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Nice car, Steve !  Thanks !

Here's another [which I love 8-) ]:

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C348727#

Problem, to me a fair amount of 'mistakes' in the description leans me 
towards thinking the listing is bogus :-( !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 30 11:15:31 2012
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From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 10:10:36 -0800
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heritage trim
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Geoff trimmed and fitted the seats for my early BN1 last spring using
Moss leather and foam,  and my other seat parts, all of which I
provided.  The results were very satisfactory.  I would recommend him
without reservation.  He can do this work from home, regardless of
what his 'day job' might be.  Ask him.

-Roland

On Fri, 30 Nov 2012 10:39:44 +0100, Tadek wrote:

::Just a thought, but I know that Geoff, son or Rich Chrysler, who worked at
::Heritage has left.
::
::He started his own business called Rightway Heritage Trimming.
::His add is on the club page:
::http://www.britishcarcouncil.com/coms/octcom2012.pdf
::
::Maybe worth contacting for trim?
::
::Heritage itself has been always VERY difficult to reach...
::
::Best Regards,
::
::Tadek
::
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 30 13:08:36 2012
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Subject: [Healeys] Heritage trim
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  I've made contact with Tony from Heritage trim who has been busy 
shifting house, all good now, thanks to the help from listers


Noel S
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 30 14:59:06 2012
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	<50B8F064.8040903@justbrits.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 16:53:59 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Just Brits Shop <shop@justbrits.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 on eBay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Interesting car and And from what I can see it appears to be well restored.
Some unusual and possibly incorrect items I noted are
The bonnet (hood) appears to be from a 100S and it has the lightened frame
and louvers for a bonnet strap.
An ammeter has been fitted
The alignment of the cockpit trims at the front of the left door is a bit
off
Incorrect radiator and heater hose clamps
Incorrect Radiator cap
Incorrect fresh air duct
Incorrect rocker cover nuts and washers
Incorrect plug wire boots at the plugs
Incorrect coil
Incorrect engine fan although I have some pics taken during its restoration
which show the correct round end aluminuim fan.
Chrome rather than painted wire wheels
Later style 48 spoke wheels










On Fri, Nov 30, 2012 at 12:44 PM, " Just Brits " Shop <shop@justbrits.com>wrote:

> Nice car, Steve !  Thanks !
>
> Here's another [which I love 8-) ]:
>
> http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C348727#
>
> Problem, to me a fair amount of 'mistakes' in the description leans me
> towards thinking the listing is bogus :-( !
>
> Ed
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> _______________________________________________
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-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 30 15:32:47 2012
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	<CAB3i7LJHFus4MT+YWvGpMw5nSmsqZoOkVWYvYPAsFad4AfdNEg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 17:13:03 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 on eBay
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> Interesting car and and from what I can see the quality of the restoration
> work appears to be very good..
> Some unusual and possibly incorrect items I noted are:
>
The bonnet (hood) appears to be from a 100S as it has the lightened frame
> and louvers for a bonnet strap.
> An ammeter has been fitted
> The alignment of the cockpit trims at the front of the left door leaves
> something to be desired.
> Incorrect radiator and heater hose clamps
> Incorrect radiator cap (should have a hollow head rivet)
> Incorrect fresh air duct
> Incorrect rocker cover nuts and washers
> Incorrect plug wire boots at the plugs
> Incorrect coil
>
Incorrect engine fan although I have some pics taken during its restoration
> (kindly provided by the vendor) which show the correct round end aluminum
> fan at that time.
> Chrome rather than painted wire wheels
> Later style 48 spoke wheels
> Also I'm not sure about the colour... Would like to see some original
> paint pieces as the (very rare) grey I have found is much bluer (if that is
> a word)!!
>
Windshield hold down springs appear to be missing.
Incorrect routing of radiator overflow tube
The heater pipe above the manifolds should be painted aluminium colour.


I don't want to appear to be overly picky but at the asking price of  #
97,500.($US156,000) I would expect the car to be correct!!


--
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 30 15:48:31 2012
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2012 14:19:42 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] trafficator for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

*Adjustable Column Trafficator - Rebuilt - $350.00 USD plus Shipping*
Ira Erbs *eyera3@gmail.com*
*See it on John's site*
*http://healey6.com/for_sale.htm*
*Near the bottom*
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
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