From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 05:29:48 2013
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Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2012 08:25:41 -0600
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Happy .................
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

New Year to all our "downunder" pals ! ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com


PS:  Especially me mate Patrick 8-) !
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 07:36:25 2013
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 09:30:25 -0500
From: key <bjcap@optonline.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] caliper body needed
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I need a driver (left side) 16p caliper body), I have the seal kit and s.s. pistons. Was ready to go with the rebuilding and found out someone had installed a 16pb on that side ! This is for a BJ8 I have in the shop.

Happy New Year
Carroll Phillips
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 07:56:59 2013
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 08:54:10 -0600 (CST)
From: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: Skip Saunders <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
	(Win)/5.0.19_GA_3083.RHEL5_64)
Cc: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Parts Washer Degreaser
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Have you tried nitrile gloves?

Tim Davis BN7

----- Original Message -----
From: "Skip Saunders" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, "List Healey"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2012 8:15:03 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Parts Washer Degreaser

I use a mixture of kerosene and an engine degreaser (3:1) .... I know you
said "no brand names" but just in case anyone is interested I use Gunk as
the engine degreaser fluid. B  I'm sure it is not safe for hands; but it eats
every glove material I've considered using if I work too long with the
stuff. B  I just use disposable gloves and change gloves regularly if I'm
using it for a long period of time. B  And, wash up very well after using
(since every once in a while the glove fingers dissolve before I make the
change to fresh gloves.)

-skip-
BJ7 in parts, BJ8 driver

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2012 6:37 AM
To: 'List Healey'
Subject: [Healeys] Parts Washer Degreaser

G'day

B 

I hope Santa was kind to you all.

B 

He was to me, with one of the things left under the tree being a parts
washer. You know one of those red troughs with a lid and a submersible
electric pump to squirt the solution up a flexible pipe.

B 

It's not set up as yet as it's occurred to me that it would be pretty dumb
to use my normal petroleum based degreaser due to the electrically driven
pump.

B 

Does anyone out there have a parts washer and what degreaser do you use?

B 

Please no brand names as the chances of what's available in the US being
also available in Australia would be pretty slim.

B 

Hoo Roo
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tld6008@mchsi.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 09:40:18 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 09:32:58 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac3oPahj0OnDNkh8Tjey6ZIQnErlJg==
Subject: [Healeys] The Bloody Beast 3000 MK I
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 My bookmark to this owners web site (whose name I've forgotten-sorry) no
longer seems to find the excellent pictures of his hardtop restoration. I'd
like to 

Use his pictures again. anyone know of which I speak? Thanks and Happy New
Year. cliff and all..

dave

 

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 09:41:25 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 09:38:41 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac3oPnS9Yss02S4sTr69NQxrfBYnig==
Subject: [Healeys] Bloody beast
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It is Mr. Lin Rose.  Capital club. 

dave

 

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 10:00:05 2013
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 08:57:10 -0800 (PST)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Bloody Beast 3000 MK I
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here you go Dave.  Lin Rose - http://valvechatter.us/?cat=3

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Tue, 1/1/13, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com> wrote:


From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Subject: [Healeys] The Bloody Beast 3000 MK I
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Received: Tuesday, January 1, 2013, 11:32 AM


My bookmark to this owners web site (whose name I've forgotten-sorry) no
longer seems to find the excellent pictures of his hardtop restoration. I'd
like to

Use his pictures again. anyone know of which I speak? Thanks and Happy New
Year. cliff and all..

dave



frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jstmorris@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 10:27:30 2013
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	Tue, 01 Jan 2013 11:24:36 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'David Porter'" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <DA54B97D1C834DFBA5FD046B78D2E3BA@oscar>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 12:24:36 -0500
Thread-index: AQGsArOUsrGYMyVAmQbtmbUuNFyVMZh4hCQg
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Bloody Beast 3000 MK I
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It, as well as many other Hardtop articles, can be found on the Technical
page, body section of my site.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Porter
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 11:33 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] The Bloody Beast 3000 MK I

 My bookmark to this owners web site (whose name I've forgotten-sorry) no
longer seems to find the excellent pictures of his hardtop restoration. I'd
like to 

Use his pictures again. anyone know of which I speak? Thanks and Happy New
Year. cliff and all..

dave

 

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world _______________________________________________
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 11:01:19 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There are two white wires going to the OD relay. One comes from the 
fuse block at A3.

The other goes from the relay down to the overdrive switch on the 
dash. Is this the correct wire to fuse?

TIA
John Spaur
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 12:06:47 2013
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130101105800.02051580@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 11:03:58 -0800
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Only items downstream from the fuse will be protected by that fuse.  So if
you put the fuse downstream of the relay, the relay won't be covered.  If
you put it upstream on the relay the relay will be protected.


On Tue, Jan 1, 2013 at 11:01 AM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> There are two white wires going to the OD relay. One comes from the fuse
> block at A3.
>
> The other goes from the relay down to the overdrive switch on the dash. Is
> this the correct wire to fuse?
>
> TIA
> John Spaur
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 12:08:43 2013
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 14:05:55 -0500
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 on ebay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just checked my VSCCA Roster and Charlie is correct:  Racing number 810
is indeed assigned to Bruce Earle.  I raced with this car a few years ago
at the VIR Gold Cups and recall its being pretty fast.  It will be
interesting to see what it goes for, if at all.

Best--Michael Oritt
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 13:27:17 2013
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From: linwoodrose@mac.com
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 15:23:45 -0500
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Bloody Beast 3000 MK I
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Dave,
Here is the link to take you directly to the Hardtop page. In the first paragraph there is a link that will also give you a printable PDF of the process. The advantage of the web page is that you can click on the photos (If I recall correctly you can click twice for real close ups) to see larger images. Glad you found it helpful.

http://valvechatter.us/?p=3272

Happy New Year.

Lin

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 1, 2013, at 11:32 AM, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com> wrote:

> My bookmark to this owners web site (whose name I've forgotten-sorry) no
> longer seems to find the excellent pictures of his hardtop restoration. I'd
> like to 
> 
> Use his pictures again. anyone know of which I speak? Thanks and Happy New
> Year. cliff and all..
> 
> dave
> 
> 
> 
> frogeye@porterscustom.com
> 
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
> 
> cars:
> www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
> gallery:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
> 
> GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
> pictures-fun facts-my world
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> 
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 12:34:50 -0800
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
	mail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130101105800.02051580@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CACOF-ToffDM2jtau0TMVsf-7afLaSJv8HfbjwMeP34kgJq1xQA@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If I understand you correctly the fuse needs to be placed between 
terminal A3 (which is one side of an existing fuse) and C1 on the 
overdrive relay. Correct?

David Nock stated the white wire needs to be protected but I think he 
may have meant the white with green wire coming off for terminal C2 
on the OD relay because the relay should be protected at A3 on the fuse block.

John

At 11:03 AM 1/1/2013 -0800, Richard Ewald wrote:
>Only items downstream from the fuse will be protected by that 
>fuse.  So if you put the fuse downstream of the relay, the relay 
>won't be covered.  If you put it upstream on the relay the relay 
>will be protected.
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 16:07:30 -0500
From: Bob <robertlarson@att.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121010
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To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130101105800.02051580@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CACOF-ToffDM2jtau0TMVsf-7afLaSJv8HfbjwMeP34kgJq1xQA@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Conceptually this concept is flawed.   The fuse does not protect anything 
downstream of the
fuse except the wire!   If he fuse blows it does so because the device, the 
relay in this case,
has already failed or there is a wire short.  The fuse is sized to allow normal 
working with the
device or devices downstream.

To look at it another way...  In the Kitchen one tries to run the toaster, 
microwave, and the
coffee maker at the same time.  The fuse/breaker trips not because it protected 
any device but
it protected the wire from overload and the potential of an overheated wire from 
stating a fire.

That is the fuse function, to protect you and the wire, not the device....

Bob
55BN1

On 1/1/2013 2:03 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
> Only items downstream from the fuse will be protected by that fuse.  So if
> you put the fuse downstream of the relay, the relay won't be covered.  If
> you put it upstream on the relay the relay will be protected.
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 1, 2013 at 11:01 AM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> There are two white wires going to the OD relay. One comes from the fuse
>> block at A3.
>>
>> The other goes from the relay down to the overdrive switch on the dash. Is
>> this the correct wire to fuse?
>>
>> TIA
>> John Spaur
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To: robertlarson@att.net
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 13:20:21 -0800
From: rd_parker@juno.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

Thank you for your clear, common sense answer to the subject.

Bob P.
Bellflower, CA.
1961 BT7. 
On Tue, 01 Jan 2013 16:07:30 -0500 Bob <robertlarson@att.net> writes:
> Conceptually this concept is flawed.   The fuse does not protect 
> anything 
> downstream of the
> fuse except the wire!   If he fuse blows it does so because the 
> device, the 
> relay in this case,
> has already failed or there is a wire short.  The fuse is sized to 
> allow normal 
> working with the
> device or devices downstream.
> 
> To look at it another way...  In the Kitchen one tries to run the 
> toaster, 
> microwave, and the
> coffee maker at the same time.  The fuse/breaker trips not because 
> it protected 
> any device but
> it protected the wire from overload and the potential of an 
> overheated wire from 
> stating a fire.
> 
> That is the fuse function, to protect you and the wire, not the 
> device....
> 
> Bob
> 55BN1
> 
> On 1/1/2013 2:03 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
> > Only items downstream from the fuse will be protected by that 
> fuse.  So if
> > you put the fuse downstream of the relay, the relay won't be 
> covered.  If
> > you put it upstream on the relay the relay will be protected.
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Jan 1, 2013 at 11:01 AM, john spaur 
> <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> >
> >> There are two white wires going to the OD relay. One comes from 
> the fuse
> >> block at A3.
> >>
> >> The other goes from the relay down to the overdrive switch on the 
> dash. Is
> >> this the correct wire to fuse?
> >>
> >> TIA
> >> John Spaur
> _______________________________________________
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> 
 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 15:06:28 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
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I agree with the below & would add that I would put the fuse in the line
leading from the relay to the solenoid. This assumes your wiring harness is in
good overall condition. It is the solenoid that draws a high current during
the initial engagement of the OD & can continue to draw high current if it
does not engage the holding coil circuit due to maladjustment of the OD
solenoid linkage. This could either melt the wire or fry the OD solenoid &
either condition is what I want to prevent with the fuse. My harness is new &
I am not particularly concerned about shorts in the wiring.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <robertlarson@att.net>
To: Richard Ewald richard.ewald@gmail.com
Conceptually this concept is flawed.   The fuse does not protect anything
downstream of the
fuse except the wire!   If he fuse blows it does so because the device, the
relay in this case,
has already failed or there is a wire short.  The fuse is sized to allow
normal
working with the
device or devices downstream.

To look at it another way...  In the Kitchen one tries to run the toaster,
microwave, and the
coffee maker at the same time.  The fuse/breaker trips not because it
protected
any device but
it protected the wire from overload and the potential of an overheated wire
from

stating a fire.

That is the fuse function, to protect you and the wire, not the device....

Bob

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 05:50:59 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Healeys@Autox. Team. Net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 12:47:40 -0000
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Subject: [Healeys] wind deflector
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Has anyone tried a wind deflector for a 3000? Like this item on eBay:-
150827739785

 

I don't see how it could be universal; but I for example, with a MkII BT7,
could slot it into the two holes for the hardtop or for the hood. But then I
wouldn't be able to drive with a tonneau....?

Of course, I could do without.

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 06:07:27 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Healeys@Autox. Team. Net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 13:04:29 -0000
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Subject: [Healeys] Gunson's Eezibleed
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Hi,

Does a Gunson's Eezibleed 4062 fit a 3000 MkII? Looks like it should, but
one site said that it didn't.

Or, which one does fit??

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 06:13:09 2013
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 14:09:36 +0100
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gunson's Eezibleed
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It will always "fit", but you may have to modify an old reservoir cap 
that fits the car.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 2-1-2013 14:04, Simon Lachlan schreef:
> Hi,
>
> Does a Gunson's Eezibleed 4062 fit a 3000 MkII? Looks like it should, but
> one site said that it didn't.
>
> Or, which one does fit??
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
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>
>


-- 
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E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 07:25:24 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gunson's Eezibleed
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The one I bought Approx. 10 years ago fit the remote reservoir, but to get an
air tight seal between the cap & the reservoir I have to install two rubber
cap gaskets. I use a tire pressure of about 12 PSI. It works very well.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: 'Healeys@Autox. Team. Net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jan 2, 2013 7:04 am
Subject: [Healeys] Gunson's Eezibleed


Hi,

Does a Gunson's Eezibleed 4062 fit a 3000 MkII? Looks like it should, but
one site said that it didn't.

Or, which one does fit??

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 09:12:03 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'Per Schoerner'" <healeyguy@bredband.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Transmission Rebuild
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

To those that answered - thanks - yes there are in fact two relieved teeth
on the mainshaft approximately 90 degrees apart that should correspond with
the plunger locations on the hub.  This condition is pretty typical on lots
of transmissions, it wasn't noted in my manual so I absolutely wasn't
looking for it.  

I would have hoped that I'd have enough common sense to look for it after
handling the plungers in the 1st place.



Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Per Schoerner
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2012 4:02 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Transmission Rebuild

Jonas, Michael
The BJ8 gearbox I have on the bench right now have two plungers in the 3/4th
hub. This is a very late (1967) BJ8 though. If you have disassembled the
hub, you have to be very observant when assembling it again, there is only
ONE way that the parts fit together.

Per

Michael Salter skrev 2012-12-31 18:59:
>> From memory the 3/4th hub on the BJ8 box is different from the 
>> earlier ones
> in that it has an extra plunger which must be aligned correctly with 
> the 3rd motion shaft groove..
$12.75
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 11:41:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>, Richard Ewald
	<richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Richard, John, Not a true statement >>>>> a fuse protects the compete circuit
in which it is inserted. 
 
There is NO downstream vs upstream protection differentiation.  A circuit is a
circuit.  The end points of a 'circuit' are the + and the - connections [live
and earth connections].  If the current flowing between those terminal points
through relays, bulbs, wires - whatever, exceeds the max current rating of the
fuse inserted in that circuit [eg 15 amps] then the fuse will blow and open
that circuit and cause any further undesirable current rise to cease
immediately.

So if there is a short inside the relay coil as an example and the current
flowing in that circuit rises above the 15 amps, the fuse blows and no further
current flows as the circuit is then 'open'.  By that time the relay coil may
or may not be damaged [whatever caused the sudden increase in the current up
to the 15 amps trigger/blow point will be probably damaged], but the chances
are there will be no fire caused by a potentially prolonged higher current
with consequential heating and ignition of plastic, gas or whatever.

Fuses are simply 'goodness', and can protect valuable old elctrical devices
from total burnout and more importantly from igniting fires that can spread
rapidly.  Obviously the value of the fuse in any circuits should have a value
that is 'slightly' higher than the total current that is designed to flow in
that circuit.  So if 2 driving lights will normally take 10 amps when both are
switched on, the fuse in the power circuit to the bulbs should be 15 amps
max - not 50 amps.
 











Robert N. Blair
  Yellow 65BJ8
  RNBmail@yahoo.com

 



--- On Tue, 1/1/13, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com> wrote:


From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
To: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, January 1, 2013, 11:03 AM


Only items downstream from the fuse will be protected by that fuse.  So if
you put the fuse downstream of the relay, the relay won't be covered.  If
you put it upstream on the relay the relay will be protected.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 13:04:11 2013
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	<CACOF-ToffDM2jtau0TMVsf-7afLaSJv8HfbjwMeP34kgJq1xQA@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 11:56:44 -0800
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: robertlarson@att.net
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You and Robert are both wrong.
Picture the two following circuits
Batt---------switch----------X--fuse----light bulb--gnd
wire rubs to ground at point X. The switch and wiring upstream of the
failure will burn out due to the excess current running through it.  it is
not protected by the fuse.
Now look at this circuit
Batt---fuse----switch---X----light bulb---gnd.
failure is in the same place, point X.  Only this time the switch and the
wiring is protected by the fuse blowing before the switch is damaged.  The
switch and wiring is protected by the fuse.
I stand by my comments.



On Tue, Jan 1, 2013 at 1:07 PM, Bob <robertlarson@att.net> wrote:

> Conceptually this concept is flawed.   The fuse does not protect anything
> downstream of the
> fuse except the wire!
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 13:29:03 2013
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 15:25:46 -0500
From: R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>
To: healeylist <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Great history of introduction of the Austin Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If you haven't seen the enclosed BBC history of the British sports car with
much Healey coverage, you'll enjoy the enclosed

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYV1ceBBtJw&feature=player_embedded

Part2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGDNk4nVjdM&feature=player_embedded

Part3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZWl6XHwCQo&feature=player_embedded

Part4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cY44nAJLb34&feature=channel&list=UL
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 14:22:36 2013
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'healeylist'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <50DFDBBD.9070902@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2012 06:50:14 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3mVQ2yfGmdk7/pQTK8lQSYtdtI5wALejqA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob, I calibrated my gauge just as Kees recommends:  I found it reading 10
degrees too high (kind of explains my "overheating" problem).  Putting the
needle back on so that it was exactly between the two dots at 212 deg.
while the sensor was immersed in boiling water fixed it.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2012 1:14 AM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge

Anyone got info on how to calibrate the Smiths temp gauge?  I know about
immersing in boiling water, etc., but I think there might be a couple screws
or a wire to bend or something.

Bob
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 14:24:04 2013
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 13:04:29 -0800
From: Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com>
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CC: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
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A3 offers no fuse protection. The fuel pump and OD white wires are on 
the same side as the ignition power lead. Only wires on the other side 
of the fuse (green wires) will be protected.
>
> David Nock stated the white wire needs to be protected but I think he 
> may have meant the white with green wire coming off for terminal C2 on 
> the OD relay because the relay should be protected at A3 on the fuse 
> block.
>
> John
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
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References: <B7339B71-2DA5-431A-AFE9-CC4ACD09BD1A@gmail.com>
	<50E0103F.5090801@chello.nl>
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2012 19:08:13 -0600
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have an old model train transformer for testing small electrics, it 
supplies 12 volts DC, you can get a cheap one on E-bay or local train shows 
for $5 bucks or so, trickle charger would probably work as well.  As far as 
the pump itself, maybe I missed something, everyone seems to be assuming it 
is something electrical, if it you replaced the diaphragm the "throw" is 
critical, there are is a static adjustment in the manuals, but usually best 
to check and adjust for optimal reliable operation with the cover off (see 
above for power source, you can also run wires from the car/battery).

When I rebuilt mine I used some hoses to make a return system and had it 
pump some marvel mystery oil for various intervals on the transformer from 
15 minutes to half an hour, turned it off and on etc., when it was all 
starting and running reliably  put it back in the car.

Greg Lemon
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	Jan 2013 20:18:14 +0000
From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130101105800.02051580@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 15:18:10 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3oUnh8VVaSxRQUQUa0ZBsGRD6pUgACI1fQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It depends on what you want to protect with the fuse, John.  
The white wire that goes to the dash switch is a part of the circuit that
activates the relay coil via the white/purple wire to relay terminal W2.
If you put a fuse in the white wire, you are protecting the wiring from a
short in the relay coil.  
If you want to protect the wiring in case of the overdrive solenoid burning
up, you should put the fuse between relay terminal C2 and the white/green
wire that goes to the overdrive.
I made up a wire with an in-line 20A fuse to connect to relay terminal C2 on
one end and to the white/green wires normally connected to C2 at the other
end (I prefer "adapter" wires to cutting into the original wiring).
A few years ago, I actually had a solenoid melt-down before I installed the
fuse.  It didn't damage the wiring, but seeing what it did to the solenoid
rubber cap, I feel better about having the fuse there.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 2:01 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Another con - fused question

There are two white wires going to the OD relay. One comes from the fuse
block at A3.

The other goes from the relay down to the overdrive switch on the dash. Is
this the correct wire to fuse?

TIA
John Spaur
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 15:00:55 2013
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Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 08:32:02 +0800
From: John Rowe <jarowe@westnet.com.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,  Healey List
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <E97E04B0D41940459113DF2818E18975@PatrickQuinnPC>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Parts Washer Degreaser Solution
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Patrick and and all the list

We, from Western Australia, wish you all a Happy and Prosperous New Year.

In our industrial parts washer the washing fluid appears to be a 
paraffin (kerosene for Australians) based product with other hydrocarbons.

It works better than straight kerosene, more like what you get in the 
cheap aerosol 'Export' brand degreaser cans here.

The degreaser can be recycled quite easily as all the crud settles out 
in the bottom of the reservoir and it's just a matter of decanting the 
degreaser fluid to a temporary container and digging out the settled 
crud and disposing of it thoughtfully.

cheer

John Rowe
Perth



On 31/12/2012 7:37 PM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote:
> G'day
>
>   
>
> I hope Santa was kind to you all.
>
>   
>
> He was to me, with one of the things left under the tree being a parts
> washer. You know one of those red troughs with a lid and a submersible
> electric pump to squirt the solution up a flexible pipe.
>
>   
>
> It's not set up as yet as it's occurred to me that it would be pretty dumb
> to use my normal petroleum based degreaser due to the electrically driven
> pump.
>
>   
>
> Does anyone out there have a parts washer and what degreaser do you use?
>
>   
>
> Please no brand names as the chances of what's available in the US being
> also available in Australia would be pretty slim.
>
>   
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>   
>
> Patrick
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 15:23:57 2013
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 23:18:48 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
Organization: Hemma
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:10.0.1)
	Gecko/20120208 Thunderbird/10.0.1
To: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
References: <BAY173-DS176BC916951B94EF9264F1C63C0@phx.gbl>
	<CAB3i7LLsBDRLU8yY7Zi8y90RYF6D48X-ZJ__TPKSd42u4UJP9A@mail.gmail.com>
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	<BAY173-DS23C5BF5761B07B542B2D3AC6220@phx.gbl>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Transmission Rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Jonas
As David Nock pointed out there are cutouts in the splines on the outer 
ring that corresponds to the positions of the plungers. If you didn't 
take the hub apart you can ignore this. But if you did take it apart, 
you must check that it has been put together correctly. Remember there 
is ONLY ONE way, although at first glance it looks like it doesn't 
matter which way you put on the outer ring because it is symmetric. On 
the older boxes it doesn't matter, they have no plungers.

Per

Jonas Payne skrev 2013-01-02 17:06:
> To those that answered - thanks - yes there are in fact two relieved teeth
> on the mainshaft approximately 90 degrees apart that should correspond with
> the plunger locations on the hub.  This condition is pretty typical on lots
> of transmissions, it wasn't noted in my manual so I absolutely wasn't
> looking for it.
>
> I would have hoped that I'd have enough common sense to look for it after
> handling the plungers in the 1st place.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<36DAA8EF-9044-4CDD-91B6-AE0A60091B92@gmail.com>
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 17:36:49 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: VOLKSWAGEN LEVITATING CAR - NEW TECHNOLOGY - Non
 Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

But it is still really cute.

Bob Johnson
looking for levitating Healey

On Sun, Dec 30, 2012 at 1:18 PM, F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>wrote:

> http://www.snopes.com/photos/technology/levitatingcar.asp
>
> On Sun, Dec 30, 2012 at 8:46 AM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > This is pretty cool. Could be great fun!
> > Randy
>  _______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2012 19:34:48 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3m7qO5LWywNEQKTEuQbyGAljO/RA==
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Subject: [Healeys] Looking for BJ8 cockpit rear molding
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello, Healeyphiles -
 
A BJ8 owner is looking for the chrome molding that curves around the rear
cockpit of a BJ8.  The usual sources don't seem to have one.  According to
the parts manual, there was an earlier version applicable to BJ7s up to
chassis 220XX and another for later BJ7s and BJ8s.  The earlier part number
has the note:  "When exhausted, use the later part number" or words to that
effect, so apparently either an early or late BJ7 part could be used as
well.
 
If anyone knows of a source, please let me know and I'll pass on the info.
 
Thanks,
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
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References: <006a01cde6ee$a4083a60$ec18af20$@rr.com>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 15:09:04 -0800
To: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for BJ8 cockpit rear molding
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve, we have a couple of used ones available.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Dec 30, 2012, at 4:34 PM, BJ8 Healeys wrote:

> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> A BJ8 owner is looking for the chrome molding that curves around  
> the rear
> cockpit of a BJ8.  The usual sources don't seem to have one.   
> According to
> the parts manual, there was an earlier version applicable to BJ7s  
> up to
> chassis 220XX and another for later BJ7s and BJ8s.  The earlier  
> part number
> has the note:  "When exhausted, use the later part number" or words  
> to that
> effect, so apparently either an early or late BJ7 part could be  
> used as
> well.
>
> If anyone knows of a source, please let me know and I'll pass on  
> the info.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 07:55:03 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] OD Solenoid rebuilding?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All -

These new OD solenoids from Taiwan/China or wherever aren't as robust as
the old Lucas ones (they tend to be much more sensitive to burning out), I
was wondering if any of you have had experience rebuilding an old one at a
electrical shop using proper materials?

Thanks,

Alan
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 08:04:51 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Greg is correct here.  On any white wire on any british car (including all
austin healeys), it is switched power, unfused.

http://www.kabel-schmidt.ch/PDF/lucas.pdf

Note what this says about white color on the second page.

I don't know which car you have, but "terminal A3" could very well be
simply a junction block, not a fuse block.

You can put a fuse on the white wire between the junction and the solenoid.

Alan

On Wed, Jan 2, 2013 at 5:04 AM, Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com
> wrote:

> A3 offers no fuse protection. The fuel pump and OD white wires are on the
> same side as the ignition power lead. Only wires on the other side of the
> fuse (green wires) will be protected.
>
>
>> David Nock stated the white wire needs to be protected but I think he may
>> have meant the white with green wire coming off for terminal C2 on the OD
>> relay because the relay should be protected at A3 on the fuse block.
>>
>> John
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 08:05:30 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

sorry I mean the last page.

On Thu, Jan 3, 2013 at 8:04 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> Greg is correct here.  On any white wire on any british car (including all
> austin healeys), it is switched power, unfused.
>
> http://www.kabel-schmidt.ch/PDF/lucas.pdf
>
> Note what this says about white color on the second page.
>
> I don't know which car you have, but "terminal A3" could very well be
> simply a junction block, not a fuse block.
>
> You can put a fuse on the white wire between the junction and the solenoid.
>
> Alan
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 2, 2013 at 5:04 AM, Greg Wilkinson <
> gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>
>> A3 offers no fuse protection. The fuel pump and OD white wires are on the
>> same side as the ignition power lead. Only wires on the other side of the
>> fuse (green wires) will be protected.
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From: "Charlie Schott" <schottc@knology.net>
To: "Bob Johnson" <bjsbj8@gmail.com>, "F Ronald Rader"
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 16:57:53 -0800
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjustable stator tube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have a used stator tube for a BT7 adjustable steering wheel that 
they want to sell? Thanks.  schottc@knology.net

Regards,

Charlie Schott






>  _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 17:32:52 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Cc: 'healeylist' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My gauge is reading pretty close at running temp (180), but stays above 90 when the engine's cold (we've had a cold snap 
here in the SF Bay Area--some nights it even gets down below 40--pretty rough).

So ... anything I do to get the 'bottom end' recagibritated?

Bob




On 12/30/2012 3:50 AM, BJ8 Healeys wrote:
> Bob, I calibrated my gauge just as Kees recommends:  I found it reading 10
> degrees too high (kind of explains my "overheating" problem).  Putting the
> needle back on so that it was exactly between the two dots at 212 deg.
> while the sensor was immersed in boiling water fixed it.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2012 1:14 AM
> To: healeylist
> Subject: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
>
> Anyone got info on how to calibrate the Smiths temp gauge?  I know about
> immersing in boiling water, etc., but I think there might be a couple screws
> or a wire to bend or something.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
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>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjustable stator tube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Are you wanting the short tube that the control head attaches to or the 
long one that goes through the steering box?


On 01/02/2013 07:57 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:
> Does anyone have a used stator tube for a BT7 adjustable steering wheel
> that they want to sell? Thanks.  schottc@knology.net
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 17:58:50 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Milestone and setback
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I started the engine today after not having run it for 10 years. 
However, it was recently rebuilt. It ran smoothly but there is an oil 
leak. Most likely the rear seal but I won't know until I pull the engine out.

Bummer,

John Spaur
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 19:07:21 2013
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 21:04:22 -0500
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130102175724.020807c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Milestone and setback
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Not in a Healey!!!!!  An oil leak!   :-) 

Randy


On Jan 2, 2013, at 8:58 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> It ran smoothly but there is an oil leak.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 19:25:00 2013
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130102175724.020807c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<3483350F-7E6A-4C19-AF81-558EA24E901F@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 18:21:57 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Milestone and setback
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Felt or o ring conversion rear seal? If felt it may need to run in a bit.
Was there a lot of oil? Or drips?
Conditional congratulations.

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant.
Portland, OR
On Jan 2, 2013 6:04 PM, "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:

> Not in a Healey!!!!!  An oil leak!   :-)
>
> Randy
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2013, at 8:58 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> > It ran smoothly but there is an oil leak.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 19:26:13 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130102175724.020807c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<3483350F-7E6A-4C19-AF81-558EA24E901F@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 20:23:11 -0600
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Milestone and setback
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

How bad? Could there be some sort of pressure build up in the crankcase, my 
100 motor was puking out quite a bit of oil before the rings seated, then 
got much better, but didn't go away entirely..  Just a thought, Greg Lemon
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 19:34:47 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com>, "'Randy Hicks'" <Healey100M@gmail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130102175724.020807c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<3483350F-7E6A-4C19-AF81-558EA24E901F@gmail.com>
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Cc: 'Ahealey help' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Milestone and setback
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Not entirely uncommon for freshly rebuild engines to leak out the front lip
seal or the rear main until they properly bed in.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 6:22 PM
To: Randy Hicks
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Milestone and setback

Felt or o ring conversion rear seal? If felt it may need to run in a bit.
Was there a lot of oil? Or drips?
Conditional congratulations.

Ira Erbs
IT Consultant.
Portland, OR
On Jan 2, 2013 6:04 PM, "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:

> Not in a Healey!!!!!  An oil leak!   :-)
>
> Randy
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2013, at 8:58 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> > It ran smoothly but there is an oil leak.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
$12.75
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagmog@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 20:04:13 2013
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 18:58:59 -0800
To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130102175724.020807c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<3483350F-7E6A-4C19-AF81-558EA24E901F@gmail.com>
	<E348167BCCC4406B8CBAA3DFE3E9355C@livingroompc>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Milestone and setback
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The oil leak is from the bottom of the bell housing and is most 
likely the after market rear seal. I don't think pistons would cause 
a leak from the bell housing. Moreover I did not have the breather 
hose connected to the carb. If it was from the transmission I think 
it would have leak a little by now.

At 08:23 PM 1/2/2013 -0600, you wrote:
>How bad? Could there be some sort of pressure build up in the 
>crankcase, my 100 motor was puking out quite a bit of oil before the 
>rings seated, then got much better, but didn't go away 
>entirely..  Just a thought, Greg Lemon
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 20:04:58 2013
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 18:59:49 -0800
To: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130102175724.020807c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<3483350F-7E6A-4C19-AF81-558EA24E901F@gmail.com>
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Cc: 'Ahealey help' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Milestone and setback
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Good to know. I intend to tune the engine so I will run it some more.

John Spaur

At 06:31 PM 1/2/2013 -0800, Jonas Payne wrote:
>Not entirely uncommon for freshly rebuild engines to leak out the front lip
>seal or the rear main until they properly bed in.
>
>Jonas Payne
>PBR Consulting
>702-882-6711
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of I Erbs
>Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 6:22 PM
>To: Randy Hicks
>Cc: Ahealey help
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Milestone and setback
>
>Felt or o ring conversion rear seal? If felt it may need to run in a bit.
>Was there a lot of oil? Or drips?
>Conditional congratulations.
>
>Ira Erbs
>IT Consultant.
>Portland, OR
>On Jan 2, 2013 6:04 PM, "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Not in a Healey!!!!!  An oil leak!   :-)
> >
> > Randy
> >
> >
> > On Jan 2, 2013, at 8:58 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> >
> > > It ran smoothly but there is an oil leak.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> > donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 19:01:00 -0800
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
	mail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130102175724.020807c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
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Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Milestone and setback
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 20:10:09 2013
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	<3483350F-7E6A-4C19-AF81-558EA24E901F@gmail.com>
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 11:07:12 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Milestone and setback
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John -

You shouldn't be getting a leak here unless you have crankcase pressure
building up.  I'd give it a bit of time to bed in first before ripping into
it.  also a PCV valve will help a great deal with this.

Alan

On Thu, Jan 3, 2013 at 10:58 AM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> The oil leak is from the bottom of the bell housing and is most likely the
> after market rear seal. I don't think pistons would cause a leak from the
> bell housing. Moreover I did not have the breather hose connected to the
> carb. If it was from the transmission I think it would have leak a little
> by now.
>
>
> At 08:23 PM 1/2/2013 -0600, you wrote:
>
>> How bad? Could there be some sort of pressure build up in the crankcase,
>> my 100 motor was puking out quite a bit of oil before the rings seated,
>> then got much better, but didn't go away entirely..  Just a thought, Greg
>> Lemon
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 19:18:39 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Timing light electrical
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have an inductive timing light. The car is positive ground. I 
presume ground attaches to the frame. What point in the engine 
compartment would be good to connect the negative voltage lead too? 
Would terminal A1 be good?

It has been a long time since I used one.

John Spaur
Electrically challenged
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 20:34:19 2013
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing light electrical
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

re: "I presume ground attaches to the frame"

Yup.  Connect to something unpainted, like one of the P-clips on the wiring harness.   I always use the big terminal on 
the starter solenoid--the one that connects to the battery--for a power source.  Don't let the clip contact the chassis 
anywhere.

Also, if your timing light has a metal case it's probably 'hot;' i.e. if it touches the chassis you'll spark (unless you 
have a special, 'positive ground timing light,' which I've never seen nor heard of).  Either be very careful or wrap the 
case with electrical tape, or both.

Bob


On 1/2/2013 7:18 PM, john spaur wrote:
> I have an inductive timing light. The car is positive ground. I presume ground attaches to the frame. What point in 
> the engine compartment would be good to connect the negative voltage lead too? Would terminal A1 be good?
>
> It has been a long time since I used one.
>
> John Spaur
> Electrically challenged
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 20:34:56 2013
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing light electrical
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Found this:

http://www.mossmotoring.com/induction-timing-lights-positive-ground-cars/


On 1/2/2013 7:18 PM, john spaur wrote:
> I have an inductive timing light. The car is positive ground. I presume ground attaches to the frame. What point in 
> the engine compartment would be good to connect the negative voltage lead too? Would terminal A1 be good?
>
> It has been a long time since I used one.
>
> John Spaur
> Electrically challenged
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130102191208.01fe7d40@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<50E4FB71.9060100@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 12:18:52 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing light electrical
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just attach it to the solenoid terminals.

On Thu, Jan 3, 2013 at 11:30 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Found this:
>
> http://www.mossmotoring.com/**induction-timing-lights-**
> positive-ground-cars/<http://www.mossmotoring.com/induction-timing-lights-positive-ground-cars/>
>
>
>
> On 1/2/2013 7:18 PM, john spaur wrote:
>
>> I have an inductive timing light. The car is positive ground. I presume
>> ground attaches to the frame. What point in the engine compartment would be
>> good to connect the negative voltage lead too? Would terminal A1 be good?
>>
>> It has been a long time since I used one.
>>
>> John Spaur
>> Electrically challenged
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 23:21:26 2013
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 early type top
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, I've checked out the websites suggested, and some have photos of the top
frame, but nothing that really shows the top header bar area with clarity.
Anyone else out here with good photos of that area on the early BN4 top?

 - Paul B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fiat500f <fiat500f@aol.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Dec 15, 2012 7:29 pm
Subject: 100-6 BN4 early type top


Does anyone have directions/photos of how to attach the top material to the
header bar?
And, is it correct that the top frame strapping continues forward of the frame
and attaches to the header bar?

 - Thanks,
Paul B.
AH100-6 BN4 35517
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 01:21:19 2013
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 09:17:45 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <50DFDBBD.9070902@comcast.net>
	<002a01cde683$d4e1e250$7ea5a6f0$@rr.com>
	<50E4DFC4.1000704@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Check the gauge also at 210-220F. This is the critical area. These 
mechanical gauges don't really register accurately, if at all, below 
90F. Engine wise these low temperatures are of no relevance, and if your 
radiator should freeze the engine will overheat.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 3-1-2013 2:32, Bob Spidell schreef:
> My gauge is reading pretty close at running temp (180), but stays 
> above 90 when the engine's cold (we've had a cold snap here in the SF 
> Bay Area--some nights it even gets down below 40--pretty rough).
>
> So ... anything I do to get the 'bottom end' recagibritated?
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> On 12/30/2012 3:50 AM, BJ8 Healeys wrote:
>> Bob, I calibrated my gauge just as Kees recommends:  I found it 
>> reading 10
>> degrees too high (kind of explains my "overheating" problem). Putting 
>> the
>> needle back on so that it was exactly between the two dots at 212 deg.
>> while the sensor was immersed in boiling water fixed it.
>>
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666
>> BJ8 Registry
>> Havelock, NC  USA
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net 
>> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
>> Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2012 1:14 AM
>> To: healeylist
>> Subject: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
>>
>> Anyone got info on how to calibrate the Smiths temp gauge?  I know about
>> immersing in boiling water, etc., but I think there might be a couple 
>> screws
>> or a wire to bend or something.
>>
>> Bob
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 07:11:45 2013
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References: <D94326BC-DE43-49DA-A23B-44AEFB345999@gmail.com>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 10:20:11 -0800
To: R. Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuelPump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The brass rollers is only on the earlier pumps. On the later pumps  
they replaced the brass washers with an integrated plastic piece that  
is part of the diaphgram \



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Dec 29, 2012, at 11:19 AM, R. Price Lindsay wrote:

> i have the fuel pump from my late model BJ8 apart.  one of the  
> instructions
> was to carefully remove the diaphragm and spindle assembly so not  
> to loose the
> 11 brass rollers.  i was careful but there weren't any rollers.  is  
> this
> correct on some pumps?
>
> thank you.
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 08:00:34 2013
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From: "Richard McGavern" <rmcgaver@rochester.rr.com>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "'john spaur'"
	<jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130102191208.01fe7d40@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<50E4FB17.7040404@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 09:57:20 -0500
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac3pYtaYcOP+QSpQSeOYBTZbol7qQgAX7bow
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing light electrical
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I power my timing light with my battery charger, no confusion on polarity or
chance to ground out.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 10:29 PM
To: john spaur
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing light electrical

re: "I presume ground attaches to the frame"

Yup.  Connect to something unpainted, like one of the P-clips on the wiring
harness.   I always use the big terminal on 
the starter solenoid--the one that connects to the battery--for a power
source.  Don't let the clip contact the chassis anywhere.

Also, if your timing light has a metal case it's probably 'hot;' i.e. if it
touches the chassis you'll spark (unless you have a special, 'positive
ground timing light,' which I've never seen nor heard of).  Either be very
careful or wrap the case with electrical tape, or both.

Bob


On 1/2/2013 7:18 PM, john spaur wrote:
> I have an inductive timing light. The car is positive ground. I 
> presume ground attaches to the frame. What point in the engine compartment
would be good to connect the negative voltage lead too? Would terminal A1 be
good?
>
> It has been a long time since I used one.
>
> John Spaur
> Electrically challenged
>
>


--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Internal Virus Database is out of date.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 08:33:23 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing light electrical
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I use a small 12v battery from a clapped out ride on lawn mower. When the
engine seized for the last time, its new battery was the only thing worth
keeping!
Or the little charger that came with my new mower..
Or the little trickle charger/conditioner that I use on the Healey during
the winter....
Or, what I used to do, a cable to the back of the car with colour coded
crocodile clips that go straight onto the battery... 

I'd guess that most of our garages could yield some similar solution.....

Simon

Simon
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References: <8CFA93B89269A2F-838-14AFE@webmail-m042.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CFB7912D1EF0D2-11F0-7EBD0@webmail-d130.sysops.aol.com>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 08:01:18 -0800
To: fiat500f@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 BN4 early type top
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What are you looking for. We have a photo set of an early BN4  
restoration that include the top install.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Jan 2, 2013, at 10:17 PM, fiat500f@aol.com wrote:

> OK, I've checked out the websites suggested, and some have photos  
> of the top
> frame, but nothing that really shows the top header bar area with  
> clarity.
> Anyone else out here with good photos of that area on the early BN4  
> top?
>
>  - Paul B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fiat500f <fiat500f@aol.com>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Dec 15, 2012 7:29 pm
> Subject: 100-6 BN4 early type top
>
>
> Does anyone have directions/photos of how to attach the top  
> material to the
> header bar?
> And, is it correct that the top frame strapping continues forward  
> of the frame
> and attaches to the header bar?
>
>  - Thanks,
> Paul B.
> AH100-6 BN4 35517
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 11:45:54 2013
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 10:42:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing light electrical
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I use a 12 volt power supply from my radio control hobby.  It is used for
powering battery chargers at home that only have connections for use in the
field connected to your car battery.  Very stable current supply.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

--- On Thu, 1/3/13, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:

I use a small 12v battery from a clapped out ride on lawn mower. When the
engine seized for the last time, its new battery was the only thing worth
keeping!
Or the little charger that came with my new mower..
Or the little trickle charger/conditioner that I use on the Healey during
the winter....
Or, what I used to do, a cable to the back of the car with colour coded
crocodile clips that go straight onto the battery...

I'd guess that most of our garages could yield some similar solution.....

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 17:35:01 2013
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From: "Charlie Schott" <schottc@knology.net>
To: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>, "'healeylist'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <50DFDBBD.9070902@comcast.net>
	<002a01cde683$d4e1e250$7ea5a6f0$@rr.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 16:31:45 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve,

Thanks for the reply on adjusting the temperature gauge. Unfortunately, on 
mine the mounting nut was frozen to the sensor so I applied heat to expand 
and, subsequently, loosen it. Now the needle is pegged at 230 degrees. Did I 
ruin the gauge or is there something that can be done to salvage it? Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott

-----Original Message----- 
From: BJ8 Healeys
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2012 3:50 AM
To: 'healeylist'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge

Bob, I calibrated my gauge just as Kees recommends:  I found it reading 10
degrees too high (kind of explains my "overheating" problem).  Putting the
needle back on so that it was exactly between the two dots at 212 deg.
while the sensor was immersed in boiling water fixed it.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2012 1:14 AM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge

Anyone got info on how to calibrate the Smiths temp gauge?  I know about
immersing in boiling water, etc., but I think there might be a couple screws
or a wire to bend or something.

Bob
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knology.net 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 19:44:59 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Test no reply needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My Transmission-clutch messages may not be reaching the list.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 20:55:46 2013
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 19:52:02 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] TRANSMISSION Clutch issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My apologies if this message is received more than once; it seems to 
have been lost on the Internet several times but my test was not.
_________________________________

I installed a lightened Denis Welch flywheel and throw-out bearing 
along with BJ8 clutch disk and housing which is all supposed to work 
together. However there are some issues I don't understand.

The first motion shaft will rotate in neutral which I think is normal.

When I depress the clutch pedal (it is bleed properly) I can engage 
the transmission in first or second gear only when the pedal is about 
1/2 way through its travel. If I floor the clutch pedal the first 
motion shaft starts to turn and I cannot shift into gear without grinding

I cannot shift into reverse or third and forth. I could when the 
transmission was on the bench and ready to reinstall.

Any ideas of what I should trouble shoot?

TIA,
John Spaur
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 20:02:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
To: Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net>, BJ8 Healeys
	<sbyers@ec.rr.com>, 'healeylist' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Charlie,

These capillary gauges are very simple but reasonably easily
repaired.  You probably heated the nut and bulb way above 230F expanding the
Bourdon tube in the gauge beyond what it was designed for and I hope for you
it's just "stuck" in this position.   The Bourdon tube pushes/pulls a little
curved "rack" which rotates a little gear on the shaft where the needle
connects to, so you might just have pushed it beyond it's range.   if this is
the case and the bourdon tube is not too stretched or damaged then the
gear/rack could be re-engaged and re-calibrated.  Accuracy after this
operation?  Who knows?  Also the hairspring that is supposed to bring the
needle back might not be operating properly.  A lot's of "if's".   I hope you
didn't smell any ether which could point to a leak. 

Scroll down on this page
for a nice pic of the mechanism:  http://www.eddinsmoto.com/id119.htm

Bert
________________________________
 From: Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net>
To: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>; 'healeylist' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2013 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp
Gauge
 
Steve,

Thanks for the reply on adjusting the temperature gauge.
Unfortunately, on mine the mounting nut was frozen to the sensor so I applied
heat to expand and, subsequently, loosen it. Now the needle is pegged at 230
degrees. Did I ruin the gauge or is there something that can be done to
salvage it? Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott

-----Original Message-----
From: BJ8 Healeys
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2012 3:50 AM
To: 'healeylist'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge

Bob, I calibrated my gauge just as
Kees recommends:  I found it reading 10
degrees too high (kind of explains my
"overheating" problem).  Putting the
needle back on so that it was exactly
between the two dots at 212 deg.
while the sensor was immersed in boiling
water fixed it.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday,
December 30, 2012 1:14 AM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
Anyone got info on how to calibrate the Smiths temp gauge?  I know about
immersing in boiling water, etc., but I think there might be a couple screws
or a wire to bend or something.

Bob
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 21:57:45 2013
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	Jan 2013 14:54:01 +0000
From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130101105800.02051580@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CACOF-ToffDM2jtau0TMVsf-7afLaSJv8HfbjwMeP34kgJq1xQA@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 09:53:51 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3pRq4CWxovFLYwRL2XugCAcnskngAeHa6w
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What raised this discussion in the first place was fusing the overdrive
circuit.  The O/D solenoid has a pull-in coil that draws high current and a
holding coil that draws less current.  The solenoids can fail in such a way
that the internal switch from the pull-in coil to the holding coil does not
work, leaving the pull-in coil continuously activated and drawing high
current.  The concern is that the high current can damage the wiring to the
O/D.  I had such a failure once that burned up the solenoid but it did not
damage the wiring, fortunately.  But the possibility that it could have
convinced me to put a fuse in the circuit.  The ultimate purpose of a fuse
is to protect the wiring, because it's much easier to replaced a failed
component than melted wire in the harness.

You can put a fuse in the white wire, but the white wire is a heavier gauge
than the wire to the O/D solenoid.  I preferred to put the fuse in the
white/green wire to the gearshift switch and solenoid so that the smaller
gauge wire is protected.  Plus, if the fuse blows, I can be pretty sure the
problem is either in the O/D wire or the solenoid.  A blown fuse in the
white wire leaves several other possibilities to have to investigate (relay,
throttle switch, dash switch and wiring to them).'

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 7:05 PM
To: gregwilkinson@roadrunner.com
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question

Greg is correct here.  On any white wire on any british car (including all
austin healeys), it is switched power, unfused.

You can put a fuse on the white wire between the junction and the solenoid.

Alan
_______________________________________________
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 10:26:30 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3pxrQ+vs/6FVgdT265DYyWE6zkQQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Chrome cockpit molding
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello, Healeyphiles -
 
I have forwarded the responses I received concerning the BJ7/BJ8 chrome
cockpit molding to the person who needs the part.  Thanks very much to all
for your help.
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  4 00:03:12 2013
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130103195015.0208a2c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 14:54:49 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] TRANSMISSION Clutch issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

by any chance have you installed a BJ8 brake master as your clutch master
by mistake?  They look the same but are smaller diameter.


On Fri, Jan 4, 2013 at 11:52 AM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> My apologies if this message is received more than once; it seems to have
> been lost on the Internet several times but my test was not.
> ______________________________**___
>
> I installed a lightened Denis Welch flywheel and throw-out bearing along
> with BJ8 clutch disk and housing which is all supposed to work together.
> However there are some issues I don't understand.
>
> The first motion shaft will rotate in neutral which I think is normal.
>
> When I depress the clutch pedal (it is bleed properly) I can engage the
> transmission in first or second gear only when the pedal is about 1/2 way
> through its travel. If I floor the clutch pedal the first motion shaft
> starts to turn and I cannot shift into gear without grinding
>
> I cannot shift into reverse or third and forth. I could when the
> transmission was on the bench and ready to reinstall.
>
> Any ideas of what I should trouble shoot?
>
> TIA,
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  4 02:22:20 2013
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130103195015.0208a2c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 10:12:47 +0100
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
	milter-greylist-4.0 (smtpout2.bornet.net [148.160.16.68]); Fri, 04 Jan
	2013 10:12:52 +0100 (CET)
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] TRANSMISSION Clutch issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sometimes it happens that the diaphragm of the pressure plate touches the
clutch disc when the pedal is fully engaged. This is probably due to wrong
tolerances on repro parts. However the easiest fix for this is simply to
shorten the push rod in the slave cylinder.

Magnus Karlsson
Sweden

Skickat frC%n min iPad

4 jan 2013 kl. 04:52 skrev john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>:

> My apologies if this message is received more than once; it seems to have
been lost on the Internet several times but my test was not.
> _________________________________
>
> I installed a lightened Denis Welch flywheel and throw-out bearing along
with BJ8 clutch disk and housing which is all supposed to work together.
However there are some issues I don't understand.
>
> The first motion shaft will rotate in neutral which I think is normal.
>
> When I depress the clutch pedal (it is bleed properly) I can engage the
transmission in first or second gear only when the pedal is about 1/2 way
through its travel. If I floor the clutch pedal the first motion shaft starts
to turn and I cannot shift into gear without grinding
>
> I cannot shift into reverse or third and forth. I could when the
transmission was on the bench and ready to reinstall.
>
> Any ideas of what I should trouble shoot?
>
> TIA,
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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	<2D1D2E29D6E34335840BA9F6544E39BD@CharliePC>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 08:24:09 -0800
To: Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net>
Cc: 'healeylist' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Due to the excessive you applied you have damaged the bimetal spring  
inside the temp gauge. The only thing to do now is have the gauge  
rebuilt correctly.

Any time the temp probe will not come out DO NOT APPLY  HEAT.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Jan 3, 2013, at 4:31 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:

> Steve,
>
> Thanks for the reply on adjusting the temperature gauge.  
> Unfortunately, on mine the mounting nut was frozen to the sensor so  
> I applied heat to expand and, subsequently, loosen it. Now the  
> needle is pegged at 230 degrees. Did I ruin the gauge or is there  
> something that can be done to salvage it? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
> -----Original Message----- From: BJ8 Healeys
> Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2012 3:50 AM
> To: 'healeylist'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
>
> Bob, I calibrated my gauge just as Kees recommends:  I found it  
> reading 10
> degrees too high (kind of explains my "overheating" problem).   
> Putting the
> needle back on so that it was exactly between the two dots at 212 deg.
> while the sensor was immersed in boiling water fixed it.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- 
> bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2012 1:14 AM
> To: healeylist
> Subject: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
>
> Anyone got info on how to calibrate the Smiths temp gauge?  I know  
> about
> immersing in boiling water, etc., but I think there might be a  
> couple screws
> or a wire to bend or something.
>
> Bob
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> schottc@knology.net _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  4 09:55:07 2013
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2013 17:51:50 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <50DFDBBD.9070902@comcast.net>
	<002a01cde683$d4e1e250$7ea5a6f0$@rr.com>
	<2D1D2E29D6E34335840BA9F6544E39BD@CharliePC>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If the bourdon spring is OK inside the gauge a new aether bulb and 
capillary tube can be fitted or, if you are expert enough you can locate 
the leak, probably one of the solder joints gone because of the heat 
applied and rectify the damage taking great care not to block up the 
capillary tube and refill the system with aether.
If the bourdon spring has blown a new gauge is at hand.
There is no temperature sensitive bi-metal spring involved in these 
gauges as there is in electric temperature gauges.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 4-1-2013 1:31, Charlie Schott schreef:
> Steve,
>
> Thanks for the reply on adjusting the temperature gauge. 
> Unfortunately, on mine the mounting nut was frozen to the sensor so I 
> applied heat to expand and, subsequently, loosen it. Now the needle is 
> pegged at 230 degrees. Did I ruin the gauge or is there something that 
> can be done to salvage it? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
> -----Original Message----- From: BJ8 Healeys
> Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2012 3:50 AM
> To: 'healeylist'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
>
> Bob, I calibrated my gauge just as Kees recommends:  I found it 
> reading 10
> degrees too high (kind of explains my "overheating" problem). Putting the
> needle back on so that it was exactly between the two dots at 212 deg.
> while the sensor was immersed in boiling water fixed it.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2012 1:14 AM
> To: healeylist
> Subject: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
>
> Anyone got info on how to calibrate the Smiths temp gauge?  I know about
> immersing in boiling water, etc., but I think there might be a couple 
> screws
> or a wire to bend or something.
>
> Bob
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knology.net 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2805 / Virusdatabase: 2637/6007 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 01/03/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  4 09:57:13 2013
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 16:54:11 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
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Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Isn't the temp gauge driven by a Bourdon tube? Or is there a bimetal spring as well, or instead of? 

Inquiring minds ... 

bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Due to the excessive you applied you have damaged the bimetal spring 
inside the temp gauge. The only thing to do now is have the gauge 
rebuilt correctly. 

Any time the temp probe will not come out DO NOT APPLY HEAT. 




David Nock 
British Car Specialists 
Stockton Ca 95205 
209-948-8767 

www.britishcarspecialists.com 

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 
Enjoy 
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs 
. 
. 

On Jan 3, 2013, at 4:31 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: 

> Steve, 
> 
> Thanks for the reply on adjusting the temperature gauge. 
> Unfortunately, on mine the mounting nut was frozen to the sensor so 
> I applied heat to expand and, subsequently, loosen it. Now the 
> needle is pegged at 230 degrees. Did I ruin the gauge or is there 
> something that can be done to salvage it? Thanks. 
> 
> Regards, 
> 
> Charlie Schott 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <1576309044.1905548.1357318451293.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 09:20:17 -0800
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Smith's Temp Gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry i meant the Bouron tube in the gauge not a Bimetal spring.

On Jan 4, 2013, at 8:54 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:

> Isn't the temp gauge driven by a Bourdon tube?  Or is there a  
> bimetal spring as well, or instead of?
>
> Inquiring minds ...
>
> bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
> Due to the excessive you applied you have damaged the bimetal spring
> inside the temp gauge. The only thing to do now is have the gauge
> rebuilt correctly.
>
> Any time the temp probe will not come out DO NOT APPLY  HEAT.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
>         Enjoy
> www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
> .
> .
>
> On Jan 3, 2013, at 4:31 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:
>
> > Steve,
> >
> > Thanks for the reply on adjusting the temperature gauge.
> > Unfortunately, on mine the mounting nut was frozen to the sensor so
> > I applied heat to expand and, subsequently, loosen it. Now the
> > needle is pegged at 230 degrees. Did I ruin the gauge or is there
> > something that can be done to salvage it? Thanks.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Charlie Schott
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 18:38:21 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch transmission issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I installed a lightened Denis Welch flywheel and throw-out bearing 
along with BJ8 clutch disk and housing which is all supposed to work 
together. However there are some issues I don't understand.

The first motion shaft will rotate in neutral which I think is normal.

When I depress the clutch pedal (it is bleed properly) I can engage 
the transmission in first or second gear only when the pedal is about 
1/2 way through its travel. If I floor the clutch pedal the first 
motion shaft starts to turn and I cannot shift into gear without grinding

I cannot shift into reverse or third and forth. I could when the 
transmission was on the bench and ready to reinstall.

Any ideas of what I should trouble shoot?

TIA,
John Spaur
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 14:33:14 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch-transmission issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I installed a lightened Denis Welch flywheel and throw-out bearing 
along with BJ8 clutch disk and housing which is all supposed to work 
together. However there are some issues I don't understand.

The first motion shaft will rotate in neutral which I think is normal.

When I depress the clutch pedal (it is bleed properly) I can engage 
the transmission in first or second gear only when the pedal is about 
1/2 way through its travel. If I floor the clutch pedal the first 
motion shaft starts to turn and I cannot shift into gear without grinding

I cannot shift into reverse or third and forth. I could when the 
transmission was on the bench and ready to reinstall.

Any ideas of what I should trouble shoot?

TIA,
John Spaur
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  4 11:02:13 2013
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130103183800.020859b8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 12:59:11 -0500
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch transmission issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Since this is a diaphragm clutch if the problem were the same in all gears
I would suggest that perhaps you are overstroking the clutch and pushing
the fingers in when depressing the pedal beyond a certain point.  However I
cannot reconcile that theory with your statement that in no case can you
engage reverse, 3rd or 4th.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Thu, Jan 3, 2013 at 9:38 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I installed a lightened Denis Welch flywheel and throw-out bearing along
> with BJ8 clutch disk and housing which is all supposed to work together.
> However there are some issues I don't understand.
>
> The first motion shaft will rotate in neutral which I think is normal.
>
> When I depress the clutch pedal (it is bleed properly) I can engage the
> transmission in first or second gear only when the pedal is about 1/2 way
> through its travel. If I floor the clutch pedal the first motion shaft
> starts to turn and I cannot shift into gear without grinding
>
> I cannot shift into reverse or third and forth. I could when the
> transmission was on the bench and ready to reinstall.
>
> Any ideas of what I should trouble shoot?
>
> TIA,
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2013 11:05:54 -0800
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
	mail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130103195015.0208a2c0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CAFBXTkLT8tidb0Sy-HWKVTaOM_3RJQ_VhJ46oqJYJJoWZihnwA@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] TRANSMISSION Clutch issues
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2013 11:31:42 -0800
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
	mail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130103183800.020859b8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CAPTa0B5jRxVvncW7GJSCtp+0HKhtU0FxxH=Hnfqav9GkQ3UyHQ@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch transmission issue
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2013 11:45:39 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130103183800.020859b8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch transmission issue
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Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2013 12:37:51 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130103183800.020859b8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CAPTa0B5jRxVvncW7GJSCtp+0HKhtU0FxxH=Hnfqav9GkQ3UyHQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20130104112827.02076740@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20130104114435.01fe8560@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch transmission issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

>Sending again because the text below did not reach the list in the 
>last message I sent.
>John
>_________________________
>
>Magnus suggested I shorten the slave cylinder push rod which would 
>resolve the problem you are suggesting. I believe that would work. 
>As for reverse, I think the reverse plunger is stuck. I don't know 
>what is up with third and fourth but will look at is this weekend 
>and report back to the list when I know more.
>
>Thanks--John Spaur
>
>At 12:59 PM 1/4/2013 -0500, Michael Oritt wrote:
>>Since this is a diaphragm clutch if the problem were the same in 
>>all gears I would suggest that perhaps you are overstroking the 
>>clutch and pushing the fingers in when depressing the pedal beyond 
>>a certain point.  However I cannot reconcile that theory with your 
>>statement that in no case can you engage reverse, 3rd or 4th.
>>
>>Best--Michael Oritt
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 12:48:48 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] another clutch question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The talk about slave actuation pin length has got me to thinking about my
Smitty 5 speed conversion. I need to fabricate  a new pin for the slave
calendar, Anyone have an idea on what length I should start with?
6 cyl engine
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 15:54:12 -0500
From: R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] SU Carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm looking for a pair of cam shoe and rod assemblies for HD8 SU carbs for
my BJ8.  Any ideas.  Moss shoes them NA.

Thanks,

Ric
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  4 14:06:42 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'R Phillips'" <healeydriver1@gmail.com>, "'healeylist'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAHx2=qBEnM0pzhq9NtTBzL3fHpUju8RiehK+Y9LdhvNxi9WMyA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 13:03:28 -0800
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	FILETIME=[F6C16E10:01CDEABE]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Call Joe Curto - he remanufactures many parts and/or may have them sitting
around.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of R Phillips
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2013 12:54 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] SU Carbs

I'm looking for a pair of cam shoe and rod assemblies for HD8 SU carbs for
my BJ8.  Any ideas.  Moss shoes them NA.

Thanks,

Ric
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  4 14:16:09 2013
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From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 22:12:20 +0100
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To: R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>
	milter-greylist-4.0 (smtpout2.bornet.net [148.160.16.68]); Fri, 04 Jan
	2013 22:12:25 +0100 (CET)
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You can order them from Burlen in the UK. You need to use the correct part no
from the BJ8 parts list.

Magnus Karlsson
Sweden
4 jan 2013 kl. 21:54 skrev R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>:

> I'm looking for a pair of cam shoe and rod assemblies for HD8 SU carbs for
> my BJ8.  Any ideas.  Moss shoes them NA.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ric
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 19:44:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch transmission issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

almost sounds like an imploding flexible hose...?
Best
JK


------------------------------
On Thu, Jan 3, 2013 9:38 PM EST john spaur wrote:

>I installed a lightened Denis Welch flywheel and throw-out bearing along with BJ8 clutch disk and housing which is all supposed to work together. However there are some issues I don't understand.
>
>The first motion shaft will rotate in neutral which I think is normal.
>
>When I depress the clutch pedal (it is bleed properly) I can engage the transmission in first or second gear only when the pedal is about 1/2 way through its travel. If I floor the clutch pedal the first motion shaft starts to turn and I cannot shift into gear without grinding
>
>I cannot shift into reverse or third and forth. I could when the transmission was on the bench and ready to reinstall.
>
>Any ideas of what I should trouble shoot?
>
>TIA,
>John Spaur
>'62 BT7
>_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  5 13:37:50 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] master clyinders
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Pursuant to the recent discussion concerning how to identify master cylinder
sizes from the outside, I stumbled upon this in a Moss Catalog:
"Cylinders are identified by rings cast in the bodies. one ring = .75", two
rings = .70".
I am not sure if this applies only to cylinders with integral reservoirs or
also to remote reservoir cylinders. Also are there external identifying rings
for the other sizes of cylinders?
Gary Hodson
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  5 13:51:45 2013
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2013 12:43:08 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8CFB99A86C69BEE-444-12741@webmail-d092.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] master cylinders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have new Moss Classic Gold cylinders. No rings but they are stamped 
0.625 leaving no doubt about the size.

John Spaur
San Jose, CA

At 03:29 PM 1/5/2013 -0500, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>Pursuant to the recent discussion concerning how to identify master cylinder
>sizes from the outside, .....
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] master cylinders
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I should have said the the information would be applicable to original Girling
master cylinders. Who knows what you might find on reproductions!
Gary


-----Original Message-----
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jan 5, 2013 2:48 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] master cylinders


I have new Moss Classic Gold cylinders. No rings but they are stamped
0.625 leaving no doubt about the size.

John Spaur
San Jose, CA

At 03:29 PM 1/5/2013 -0500, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>Pursuant to the recent discussion concerning how to identify master cylinder
>sizes from the outside, .....
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  5 15:24:13 2013
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2013 23:20:38 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8CFB99A86C69BEE-444-12741@webmail-d092.sysops.aol.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20130105124022.01fc53d8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<8CFB9A34FA9BBAE-1D50-15084@webmail-d046.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] master cylinders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The only sure way is using a vernier gauge, quick and easy.
Bodies can have another internal diameter than is stamped or cast on the 
outside as a result of a rebuild or error from the manufacturer. These 
are not as uncommon as one might think.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 5-1-2013 22:32, warthodson@aol.com schreef:
> I should have said the the information would be applicable to original Girling
> master cylinders. Who knows what you might find on reproductions!
> Gary
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Jan 5, 2013 2:48 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] master cylinders
>
>
> I have new Moss Classic Gold cylinders. No rings but they are stamped
> 0.625 leaving no doubt about the size.
>
> John Spaur
> San Jose, CA
>
> At 03:29 PM 1/5/2013 -0500, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>> Pursuant to the recent discussion concerning how to identify master cylinder
>> sizes from the outside, .....
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 07:34:56 2013
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 09:30:36 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Dipping vs Blasting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the considered responses. I've decided to have the BT7 dipped.
Talked to the guy at length and he'll be ready for it in a couple weeks.
 Time for me to get the shop back in shape after it too long being a
storage area.

I apologize for taking so long to respond.  The usual excuse in these parts
is that "life got in the way".  I'm delighted to say that this time the
Healey got in the way - I've been spending all my spare time working on the
beast!  Build a rotisserie for it which made welding on the outer sills and
removing the last of the rusty/greasey bits a bunch easier.  Can't wait to
get started putting clean pieces together instead of taking grungy pieces
apart.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
Pepperell, Mass
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 18:23:39 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Electrics
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Positive ground (they meant "earth")  depends on proper circuit 
functioning, which is the transmission of negative  ions by retention of the visible 
spectral manifestation known as  smoke.

Smoke is the thing that makes electrical circuits work. We know  this to be 
true because every time one lets the smoke out of an electrical  circuit, 
it stops working. This can be verified repeatedly through empirical  testing.

For example, if one places a copper bar across the terminals of  a battery, 
prodigious quantities of smoke are liberated and the battery shortly  
ceases to function. In addition, if one observes smoke escaping from an  
electrical component such as a Lucas voltage regulator, it will also be observed  
that the component no longer functions. The logic is elementary and  
inescapable!

The function of the wiring harness is to conduct the smoke  from one device 
to another. 

When the wiring springs a leak and lets all  the smoke out of the system, 
nothing works afterward.

Starter motors were  considered unsuitable for British motorcycles for some 
time largely because they  consumed large quantities of smoke, requiring 
very unsightly large  wires.

It has been reported that Lucas electrical components are possibly  more 
prone to electrical leakage than their Bosch, Japanese or American  
counterparts. Experts point out that this is because Lucas is British, and all  things 
British leak. British engines leak oil, British shock absorbers,  hydraulic 
forks and disk brake systems leak fluid, British tires leak air and  
British Intelligence leaks national defense secrets.

Therefore, it  follows that British electrical systems must leak smoke. 
Once again, the logic  is clear and inescapable.

In conclusion, the basic concept of  transmission of electrical energy in 
the form of smoke provides a logical  explanation of the mysteries of 
electrical components especially British units  manufactured by Joseph Lucas, Ltd.

And remember: A gentleman does not  motor about after dark. 

Joseph Lucas - The Prince of Darkness 

A  few Lucas quips:

The Lucas motto: Get home before dark. 

Lucas is  the patent holder for the short circuit.
Lucas - Inventor of the first  intermittent wiper.
Lucas - Inventor of the self-dimming headlamp.

The  three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF. The other three 
switch  settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.

The Original Anti-Theft Device -  Lucas Electrics.

If Lucas made guns, wars would not start either.  

Back in the '70s, Lucas decided to diversify its product line and began  
manufacturing vacuum cleaners. It was the only product they offered which did  
not suck.

Q: Why do the British drink warm beer? 
A: Because Lucas  makes their refrigerators.
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dipping vs Blasting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 1/6/2013 8:30 AM, Mike Tobin wrote:

Thanks for the considered responses. >>

Sorry I wasn't one of them Mike, so see below <VBG> !!!

<< I've decided to have the BT7 dipped. >>

I also would have recommend dipping (acid or Redi-Strip ??).

Does dipper 'offer' (extra $$, of course  ;-)    :'(    :-)  ) a "drying 'service ??  Take it <G>)

How HOT can you get your shop/separate garage ??

Ed
Please visit MY shop at:
www.justbrits.com
Forty (40) year Member, AHCA [be GLAD to say ACTUALLY how many but NO Officer can tell me<F>! !]
  BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL Plates		AH BJ 7		) ! !
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 02:10:17 -0800 (PST)
From: John Roesle <lostboys65@yahoo.com>
To: mac@corporateinsgroup.com, addons2000@sbcglobal.net,
	mschmidt3@emporia.com, 2spgt-3511118029@sale.craigslist.org,
	jakask30@yahoo.com, healeys@autox.team.net,
	monica_m_hernandez@yahoo.com, boneal@kumc.edu, wspaur@fnbnevada.com
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://shankarlogistics.com/wp-content/dwncst.php?dpsf=dpsf
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 06:37:08 2013
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 07:33:33 -0600
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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	{sentby:smtp auth 24.15.13.164 authed with sales@justbrits.com}
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)
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OMG, another sucker that uses FREE POS yahoo has been HACKED <g> <f> <g>,
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 07:10:32 2013
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 06:07:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Lynn and Jean Neff <lnjn36@sbcglobal.net>
To: jdh1525@sbcglobal.net, LLBean@e.llbean.com, howard62712@comcast.net,
	susan@cherryhillsfamily.org, cneff@lcmhb.org, r.y@sbcglobal.net,
	mmmau@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net, mthornto@gte.net
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://safahost.com/js/addht.php
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 08:34:09 2013
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 09:27:03 -0600
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1357567626.42543.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	{sentby:smtp auth 24.15.13.164 authed with sales@justbrits.com}
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Huuun, this is about the 5th or 6th sbcglobal I've seen in as many 
weeks and I 'think' I recall 1 or 2 following a POS yahoo hack.  I 
wonder............<F> ? ! ?

Ed
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 09:53:35 2013
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From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: BJ8 steering column parts positions
Thread-Index: Ac3s9pneLczreiy1QnOX8LHsB92ByA==
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 16:46:54 +0000
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Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 steering column parts positions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What are the approximate positions of the felt bush and the two O'rings on the
steering shaft? I can guess on the felt, but no clue on the O'rings.
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 11:24:23 2013
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From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healeyguy@aol.com'" <healeyguy@aol.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] BJ8 steering column parts positions
Thread-Index: Ac3s9pneLczreiy1QnOX8LHsB92ByAATMhaAAA/yXKA=
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 18:20:15 +0000
References: <D1E28C6D7CCA26409A188BB6DC7555C8019B71@SACMBX01.corp.aerojet.com>
	<8CFBB1775EAF8C4-FB8-1F297@webmail-m180.sysops.aol.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 steering column parts positions
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Roger, will do.
Thanks,
Ken

From: healeyguy@aol.com [mailto:healeyguy@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2013 9:57 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: Freese, Ken
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 steering column parts positions

Felt at top of column. o-rings at about middle and a bit above the box.
Aloha
Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>

What are the approximate positions of the felt bush and the two O'rings on
the

steering shaft?
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 12:57:06 2013
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 04:39:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Glenn Dolese <gdolese@att.net>
To: pdolese@earthlink.net, Reply-gy5dyginrcgnjymgg1b@candlefactorygirl.info,
	kayclarke@sbcglobal.net, sla77356@yahoo.com, jodiaz11@satx.rr.com,
	Sheilafrag1@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net, NoReply@ancestry.com,
	pat.ladner@akaerospace.com
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://hst-eastanglia.co.uk/tutors/addht.php
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 13:03:49 2013
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From: "Charles Rice" <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 14:00:19 -0600
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Subject: [Healeys] Insurance
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Has anyone had claim experience with "Classic Automobile Insurance Agency
Inc" 

which seems to be a division of "American Modern Home Insurance Co" of
Amelia, OH?

Thanks - 
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130107154730.04ac0608@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 09:24:10 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Discovery's - Engine Milestone and setback
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John -

I was thinking if this is blow back from the #4 cam oil galley, it might
lessen over time as the cam bearings bed in (i.e. reducing back pressure).
 You might also want to check the #4 cam bearing and make sure the oil feed
holes are properly lined up.

I think using Hylomar blue or soft Hylomar should be enough to make up for
gaps on the backplate, maybe you just had a spot you missed somewhere.

Keep us posted on this.

Best,

Alan

On Tue, Jan 8, 2013 at 8:00 AM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I pulled the engine out. The Denis Welch rear seal was good. The oil leak
> was coming from the bottom of the number 4 cam oil galley between the back
> of the engine and the rear engine plate. Oil had flowed down between the
> gasket and the back of the engine, then out through the crankshaft cut-out.
>
> I had sealed it with Hylomar Blue Racing gasket sealer (this type hardens
> somewhat). I am not sure what caused the leak. Alan suggested that
> excessive crankcase pressure could cause the rear seal to leak if the
> rocker shaft banjo bolt was loose. In fact the rocker shaft oil pipe bolt
> to the head was loose. In addition I had poured a small bottle of ZDDP into
> the top of the head prior to starting the engine.
>
> Could the loose bolt and/or the ZDDP have caused the oil leak at rear cam
> bearing oil galley? The gasket surfaces are flat.
>
> I will be using a different type of gasket sealer this time. Either
> Wellseal or Form-a-Gastet 2 and a slightly thicker gasket material.
>
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 19:55:44 2013
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 18:52:05 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
	mail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130107154730.04ac0608@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CAFBXTkK09UEK6C-m7cKoPAX2D9nYu9-eeC8qvFaYoqFvgRZ69A@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Discovery's - Engine Milestone and setback - more info
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I forgot to mention I have a DW cam. It is line bored the full length 
and plugged at the end of the line at the rear bearing.

The shop manual states that the second oil way (from the oil pump on 
the right hand side of the engine) supplies oil to the #3 cam 
bearing. In my case the oil would be forced through the center of the 
cam shaft to the other three bearings too. I presume oil would flow 
out around the bearing into the hollow at the back of the engine and 
then flow into the crankcase through the 1/4" round or so hole at the 
bottom of the hollow.

I can't see how enough pressure could build up in the hollow to blow 
the gasket unless the hole was plugged.

John

At 09:24 AM 1/8/2013 +0800, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>Hi John -
>
>I was thinking if this is blow back from the #4 cam oil galley, it 
>might lessen over time as the cam bearings bed in (i.e. reducing 
>back pressure).  You might also want to check the #4 cam bearing and 
>make sure the oil feed holes are properly lined up.
>
>I think using Hylomar blue or soft Hylomar should be enough to make 
>up for gaps on the backplate, maybe you just had a spot you missed somewhere.
>
>Keep us posted on this.
>
>Best,
>
>Alan
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 14:08:33 +1100
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Discovery's - Engine Milestone and setback - more info
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John,
The DW cam is also drilled in the cam lobes. The cam becomes an oil gallery
and it lubricates the cam followers, via the holes in the cam lobes, solving
the issue of the biggest single wear related issue in the C series design.
I don't think it has anything to do with the DW camshaft design.
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 08/01/2013, at 1:52 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I forgot to mention I have a DW cam. It is line bored the full length and
plugged at the end of the line at the rear bearing.
>
> The shop manual states that the second oil way (from the oil pump on the
right hand side of the engine) supplies oil to the #3 cam bearing. In my case
the oil would be forced through the center of the cam shaft to the other three
bearings too. I presume oil would flow out around the bearing into the hollow
at the back of the engine and then flow into the crankcase through the 1/4"
round or so hole at the bottom of the hollow.
>
> I can't see how enough pressure could build up in the hollow to blow the
gasket unless the hole was plugged.
>
> John
>
> At 09:24 AM 1/8/2013 +0800, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> Hi John -
>>
>> I was thinking if this is blow back from the #4 cam oil galley, it might
lessen over time as the cam bearings bed in (i.e. reducing back pressure).
You might also want to check the #4 cam bearing and make sure the oil feed
holes are properly lined up.
>>
>> I think using Hylomar blue or soft Hylomar should be enough to make up for
gaps on the backplate, maybe you just had a spot you missed somewhere.
>>
>> Keep us posted on this.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alan
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 22:23:38 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [Healeys] Positive to negative gnd---Pertronix question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

OK---thinking strongly of converting my late BJ8 to negative earth.  I know the steps-------but-------not sure about the Pertronix.  I have been using Pertronix under positive ground conditions for a long time.

When I convert to neg gnd, must I change Pertronix to a neg gnd one, or is it OK to continue to use the one in the car now that was operating under pos gnd conditions?

Thanks for any advice.

tom
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References: <20130107222338.54EYU.5857.root@pamxwww07-z01>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 11:31:04 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Positive to negative gnd---Pertronix question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am pretty sure you have to change over the ignitor unit... it is wired
differently.

On Tue, Jan 8, 2013 at 11:23 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> OK---thinking strongly of converting my late BJ8 to negative earth.  I
> know the steps-------but-------not sure about the Pertronix.  I have been
> using Pertronix under positive ground conditions for a long time.
>
> When I convert to neg gnd, must I change Pertronix to a neg gnd one, or is
> it OK to continue to use the one in the car now that was operating under
> pos gnd conditions?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> tom
> ____
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 19:42:28 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission - rear shifter plunger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Previously I mentioned that I could not shift into reverse. I pulled 
the transmission and removed the reverse fork. What I found is the 
larger reverse plunger is extremely hard to push in. It seems to be 
hanging up on the smaller detent plunger. When the springs are 
removed both plungers move freely in there bores. The contact 
surfaces where the plungers interface are relatively smooth and not 
galled at all. The springs are fine although the detent spring seems 
very stiff but it is original as far as I know.

Should I bevel the edges of the larger plunger where it interfaces 
with the detent plunger to help it ease over the detent head?

Has anyone else had this problem and solved it?

Thank you,

John Spaur
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 21:57:31 2013
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	Mon, 07 Jan 2013 22:53:58 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Alan Seigrist'" <healey.nut@gmail.com>, "'Tom Felts'"
	<tomfelts@windstream.net>
References: <20130107222338.54EYU.5857.root@pamxwww07-z01>
	<CAFBXTkKsajh_OELGggfHLGMK_NhHBW8LxZWbG2oCeGnHrCR3xQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 23:53:45 -0500
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Positive to negative gnd---Pertronix question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Pertronix units are polarity sensitive.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2013 10:31 PM
To: Tom Felts
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Positive to negative gnd---Pertronix question

I am pretty sure you have to change over the ignitor unit... it is wired
differently.

On Tue, Jan 8, 2013 at 11:23 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> OK---thinking strongly of converting my late BJ8 to negative earth.  I 
> know the steps-------but-------not sure about the Pertronix.  I have 
> been using Pertronix under positive ground conditions for a long time.
>
> When I convert to neg gnd, must I change Pertronix to a neg gnd one, 
> or is it OK to continue to use the one in the car now that was 
> operating under pos gnd conditions?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> tom
> ____
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 00:24:45 2013
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Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 23:19:28 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Engine mounting plate gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have noticed the gaskets on the healey vary in thickness from 
almost paper thin to medium and then thick; however I am not meaning 
as thick as cork in this instance.

I had a somewhat medium thick gasket fail at the rear mounting plate 
below the cam oil return. I was going to install a slightly thicker 
gasket but now I am thinking a very thin gasket much like the ones at 
the rear hub should be used. The Moss catalog does not list the 
gasket so I will cut one out.

What thickness of gasket material should I use for between the rear 
mounting plate and engine?

Thank you,

John Spaur
San Jose, CA
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
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References: <20130107222338.54EYU.5857.root@pamxwww07-z01>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 02:16:17 -0800 (PST)
From: John Kuzman <jjkbj7@yahoo.com>
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Positive to negative gnd---Pertronix question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just did this to install an alternator in place of the generator. Yes, you
must change to the negative ground Pertronix.


From: Tom Felts
<tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, January 7,
2013 10:23 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Positive to negative gnd---Pertronix question
OK---thinking strongly of converting my late BJ8 to negative earth.  I know
the steps-------but-------not sure about the Pertronix.  I have been using
Pertronix under positive ground conditions for a long time.

When I convert to
neg gnd, must I change Pertronix to a neg gnd one, or is it OK to continue to
use the one in the car now that was operating under pos gnd conditions?
Thanks for any advice.

tom
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 03:59:31 2013
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2013 11:55:08 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
Organization: Hemma
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:10.0.1)
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130107193437.020d3f58@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission - rear shifter plunger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John
Last week I worked on a box with the "same" problem. The problem in this 
case was that it was very hard to shift to reverse, and when it did it 
was with a noisy click sound. You know, the design is that you need to 
hit the gear lever slightly to get the bigger plunger to pass the 
smaller. But in this case you needed to hit the lever too hard, at least 
for my taste. I polished the plungers so that the surfaces were very 
smooth, but it didn't help. I then tried with a spring for the smaller 
plunger that was a little weaker than original, and results were good.

Per

john spaur skrev 2013-01-08 04:42:
> Previously I mentioned that I could not shift into reverse. I pulled the
> transmission and removed the reverse fork. What I found is the larger
> reverse plunger is extremely hard to push in. It seems to be hanging up
> on the smaller detent plunger. When the springs are removed both
> plungers move freely in there bores. The contact surfaces where the
> plungers interface are relatively smooth and not galled at all. The
> springs are fine although the detent spring seems very stiff but it is
> original as far as I know.
>
> Should I bevel the edges of the larger plunger where it interfaces with
> the detent plunger to help it ease over the detent head?
>
> Has anyone else had this problem and solved it?
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 06:24:50 2013
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 8:21:12 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Positive to negative gnd---Pertronix question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Alan----that makes sense and if it has to be rewired, my bet is that it would take a different Per unit.  I'll talk to them on which unit to use.

thanks
tom

---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
I am pretty sure you have to change over the ignitor unit... it is wired
differently.

On Tue, Jan 8, 2013 at 11:23 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> OK---thinking strongly of converting my late BJ8 to negative earth.  I
> know the steps-------but-------not sure about the Pertronix.  I have been
> using Pertronix under positive ground conditions for a long time.
>
> When I convert to neg gnd, must I change Pertronix to a neg gnd one, or is
> it OK to continue to use the one in the car now that was operating under
> pos gnd conditions?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> tom
> ____
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 07:26:22 2013
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 06:22:07 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3tq4m29EbJyDMLSLmizXdJeHfIuA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Mounting Gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

IMHO the thicker the gasket the more likely to fail. I installed my rear
plate with Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket in Feb 2008 and it still only
leaks a drop every couple of weeks from the seal. The cam area is a
non-issue.

I also sealed the edges of the seal carrier with the same. I masked off the
outline of the engine and sprayed the rear plate mating surface with 4 or 5
coats of Permatex Copper Spray-a-Gasket.

No paper gasket at all.

 

See:

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/97270433

 

>>> 

Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 23:19:28 -0800
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> >
To: healeys@autox.team.net
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=healeys@autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] Engine mounting plate gasket
<https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=6.2.3.4.2.20130107231036.0203f710
@pop.att.yahoo.com> >



John Spaur wrote: 

What thickness of gasket material should I use for between the rear 
mounting plate and engine?




--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 07:33:47 2013
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References: <000001cdedab$8cb0f410$a612dc30$@com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 22:29:13 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Mounting Gasket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes I actually agree on this.  Either the original style thin gasket or no
gasket at all is required here.

On Tue, Jan 8, 2013 at 10:22 PM, Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com> wrote:

> John,
>
> IMHO the thicker the gasket the more likely to fail. I installed my rear
> plate with Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket in Feb 2008 and it still only
> leaks a drop every couple of weeks from the seal. The cam area is a
> non-issue.
>
> I also sealed the edges of the seal carrier with the same. I masked off the
> outline of the engine and sprayed the rear plate mating surface with 4 or 5
> coats of Permatex Copper Spray-a-Gasket.
>
> No paper gasket at all.
>
>
>
> See:
>
> http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/97270433
>
>
>
> >>>
>
> Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 23:19:28 -0800
> From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
> <https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> >
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> <https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Engine mounting plate gasket
> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20130107231036.0203f710@pop.att.yahoo.com
> <
> https://mbox.hoster902.com/compose.php?to=6.2.3.4.2.20130107231036.0203f710
> @pop.att.yahoo.com> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>
>
> John Spaur wrote:
>
> What thickness of gasket material should I use for between the rear
> mounting plate and engine?
>
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
> Steve Gerow
>
> Altadena, CA, USA
>
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 08:38:17 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'Per Schoerner'" <healeyguy@bredband.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130107193437.020d3f58@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<50EBFB0C.8050805@bredband.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 07:34:22 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission - rear shifter plunger
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Went through the same thing on my trans rebuild 2 weeks ago.  Spent some
time cleaning and polishing the parts, when that still didn't work, I filed
the small plunger to a rounder shape and also rounded off the edges of the
recess in the large plunger.  Works like a champ now.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Per Schoerner
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2013 2:55 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission - rear shifter plunger

John
Last week I worked on a box with the "same" problem. The problem in this
case was that it was very hard to shift to reverse, and when it did it was
with a noisy click sound. You know, the design is that you need to hit the
gear lever slightly to get the bigger plunger to pass the smaller. But in
this case you needed to hit the lever too hard, at least for my taste. I
polished the plungers so that the surfaces were very smooth, but it didn't
help. I then tried with a spring for the smaller plunger that was a little
weaker than original, and results were good.

Per

john spaur skrev 2013-01-08 04:42:
> Previously I mentioned that I could not shift into reverse. I pulled 
> the transmission and removed the reverse fork. What I found is the 
> larger reverse plunger is extremely hard to push in. It seems to be 
> hanging up on the smaller detent plunger. When the springs are removed 
> both plungers move freely in there bores. The contact surfaces where 
> the plungers interface are relatively smooth and not galled at all. 
> The springs are fine although the detent spring seems very stiff but 
> it is original as far as I know.
>
> Should I bevel the edges of the larger plunger where it interfaces 
> with the detent plunger to help it ease over the detent head?
>
> Has anyone else had this problem and solved it?
$12.75
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 10:56:02 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does this sound reasonable? So I took my truck in to get a front end
alignment and inspection (in NC) at the same time. They did not do the
alignment because the lower ball joints were to worn to do an alignmnet.
New ball joints are almost $560 installed. But then, however, the ball
joints were not so worn that the truck did pass inspection. Really?

Bob Johnson
who obviously kept the Healey so I could work on it because I have a big
distrust for repair shops maybe?
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 09:09:00 2013
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2013 17:05:32 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAJTyXLQ-NQP0hpF8F2Z8Y=wgZxNwxmKA+8g3X75sjmiCDbTDsA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints
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Sounds quite plausible to mee. The US Tech inspection does not count for 
much and is not very strickt.
If there is any obvious play, which may satify the inspector, front 
wheel alignment is not going to work. For that you need as good as no 
play to get a proper result.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 8-1-2013 16:56, Bob Johnson schreef:
> Does this sound reasonable? So I took my truck in to get a front end
> alignment and inspection (in NC) at the same time. They did not do the
> alignment because the lower ball joints were to worn to do an alignmnet.
> New ball joints are almost $560 installed. But then, however, the ball
> joints were not so worn that the truck did pass inspection. Really?
>
> Bob Johnson
> who obviously kept the Healey so I could work on it because I have a big
> distrust for repair shops maybe?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
>
> -----
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2805 / Virusdatabase: 2637/6016 - datum van uitgifte: 01/07/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 09:37:02 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Bob Johnson'" <bjsbj8@gmail.com>, "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAJTyXLQ-NQP0hpF8F2Z8Y=wgZxNwxmKA+8g3X75sjmiCDbTDsA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 09:33:16 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Newer ball joints now have wear mark indicators so techs can easily spot
those in need of replacment. It is often a CYA response for shops to
"recommend" this service even if the only visible damage is external. A
recent grease job (if applicable) will often yield within limits results.
Ask the shop how they determined the "need".
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2013 8:56 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints

Does this sound reasonable? So I took my truck in to get a front end
alignment and inspection (in NC) at the same time. They did not do the
alignment because the lower ball joints were to worn to do an alignmnet.
New ball joints are almost $560 installed. But then, however, the ball
joints were not so worn that the truck did pass inspection. Really?

Bob Johnson
who obviously kept the Healey so I could work on it because I have a big
distrust for repair shops maybe?
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
_______________________________________________
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130107193437.020d3f58@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<50EBFB0C.8050805@bredband.net>
	<BAY173-DS1266294B4A062AB6476124C6240@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 09:28:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
To: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>, 'Per Schoerner'
	<healeyguy@bredband.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission - rear shifter plunger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Same here, had to do this two years ago when I rebuild my BN2 4 -speed
gearbox.   

Filing/polishing plungers and tweaking spring for the small
plunger.

I still left it a tad hard to engage on the workbench and it works
great now in the car.


Good to know I am not alone in this.

Bert
________________________________
 From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To:
'Per Schoerner' <healeyguy@bredband.net>; healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Tuesday, January 8, 2013 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Transmission - rear
shifter plunger
 
Went through the same thing on my trans rebuild 2 weeks
ago.  Spent some
time cleaning and polishing the parts, when that still didn't
work, I filed
the small plunger to a rounder shape and also rounded off the
edges of the
recess in the large plunger.  Works like a champ now.

Jonas
Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711


Per

john spaur skrev 2013-01-08 04:42:
>
Previously I mentioned that I could not shift into reverse. I pulled 
> the
transmission and removed the reverse fork. What I found is the 
> larger
reverse plunger is extremely hard to push in. It seems to be 
> hanging up on
the smaller detent plunger. When the springs are removed 
> both plungers move
freely in there bores. The contact surfaces where 
> the plungers interface
are relatively smooth and not galled at all. 
> The springs are fine although
the detent spring seems very stiff but 
> it is original as far as I know.
>
>
Should I bevel the edges of the larger plunger where it interfaces 
> with the
detent plunger to help it ease over the detent head?
>
> Has anyone else had
this problem and solved it?
$12.75
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 10:35:50 -0800 (PST)
From: jerry adams <cjerryadams@yahoo.com>
To: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>, Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,
 
Do an inspection yourself.  Jack front wheels off ground and grab a
tire top and bottom and push back and forth hard and inspect for play. Then do
same with front and back grab of tire and push back and forth and inspect for
play.  This will check for ball joint play and tie rod ball joint play. 
Daughter was told that her ball joints needed replacement also on her
Explorer.  I replaced her brakes and inspected the ball joints.  They were
tight but the rubber boots were split and exposed the joints and the boots
can't be replaced seperately. I have her have the ball joints greased more
frequently than required to keep the surfaces of the joint clean as long as
possible.  She wiil eventially have to have the ball joints replaced but not
until she puts many more miles on the Explorer.  The brakes are another story.
 
Jerry
BN2

From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys
<healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, January 8, 2013 9:56 AM
Subject:
[Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints

Does this sound reasonable? So
I took my truck in to get a front end
alignment and inspection (in NC) at the
same time. They did not do the
alignment because the lower ball joints were to
worn to do an alignmnet.
New ball joints are almost $560 installed. But then,
however, the ball
joints were not so worn that the truck did pass inspection.
Really?

Bob Johnson
who obviously kept the Healey so I could work on it
because I have a big
distrust for repair shops maybe?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 13:13:25 2013
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	<1357670150.9418.YahooMailNeo@web125404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 15:09:42 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Interesting, Jerry. The guys comment was he had a low mileage Explorer and
that he had just had to do the same thing (replace) to it.

Bob Johnson

On Tue, Jan 8, 2013 at 1:35 PM, jerry adams <cjerryadams@yahoo.com> wrote:

>  Bob,
>
> Do an inspection yourself.  Jack front wheels off ground and grab a tire
> top and bottom and push back and forth hard and inspect for play. Then do
> same with front and back grab of tire and push back and forth and inspect
> for play.  This will check for ball joint play and tie rod ball joint
> play.  Daughter was told that her ball joints needed replacement also on
> her Explorer.  I replaced her brakes and inspected the ball joints.  They
> were tight but the rubber boots were split and exposed the joints and the
> boots can't be replaced seperately. I have her have the ball joints greased
> more frequently than required to keep the surfaces of the joint clean as
> long as possible.  She wiil eventially have to have the ball joints
> replaced but not until she puts many more miles on the Explorer.  The
> brakes are another story.
>
> Jerry
> BN2
>
>   *From:* Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
> *To:* Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 8, 2013 9:56 AM
>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints
>
> Does this sound reasonable? So I took my truck in to get a front end
> alignment and inspection (in NC) at the same time. They did not do the
> alignment because the lower ball joints were to worn to do an alignmnet.
> New ball joints are almost $560 installed. But then, however, the ball
> joints were not so worn that the truck did pass inspection. Really?
>
> Bob Johnson
> who obviously kept the Healey so I could work on it because I have a big
> distrust for repair shops maybe?
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
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From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 13:47:38 -0500
To: Healey List Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Billet Clutch & Brake Reservour
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have a recommendation for a Billet clutch/brake reservoir for a BJ
8?

Price Lindsay

630-841-6300 Cell
New Email Address:
050.rpl@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 13:30:18 2013
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 15:26:38 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [Healeys] Any chance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

one of you might have an old blue touneau cover or hood cover that  you will never use and you would be willing to cut me some strips from it?  I purchased a pretty good BJ8 touneau cover BUT it has a few holes in it that i need to patch.

Thanks
tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 15:25:04 2013
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From: "Skip Saunders" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "'Tom Felts'" <tomfelts@windstream.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20130109152639.0I0Y3.12129.root@pamxwww03-z01>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 17:20:05 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Any chance
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just use duct tape....:-)

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 3:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Any chance

one of you might have an old blue touneau cover or hood cover that  you will
never use and you would be willing to cut me some strips from it?  I
purchased a pretty good BJ8 touneau cover BUT it has a few holes in it that
i need to patch.

Thanks
tom
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 15:55:34 2013
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 17:51:38 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Skip Saunders <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Any chance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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LOL---might work--they make several colors of it now!!

tom
---- Skip Saunders <tfsbj7@mindspring.com> wrote: 

=============
Just use duct tape....:-)

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 3:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Any chance

one of you might have an old blue touneau cover or hood cover that  you will
never use and you would be willing to cut me some strips from it?  I
purchased a pretty good BJ8 touneau cover BUT it has a few holes in it that
i need to patch.

Thanks
tom
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7@mindspring.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 17:10:13 2013
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From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20130109152639.0I0Y3.12129.root@pamxwww03-z01>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 16:05:55 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Any chance
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom:  I just happen to have the old blue tonneau cover that I replaced with 
a new one a few years ago.  If no one else has responded, I would be willing 
cut some strips out of it for you.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 12:26 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Any chance


> one of you might have an old blue touneau cover or hood cover that  you 
> will never use and you would be willing to cut me some strips from it?  I 
> purchased a pretty good BJ8 touneau cover BUT it has a few holes in it 
> that i need to patch.
>
> Thanks
> tom
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 16:42:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Don Day <fsufan1952@yahoo.com>
To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 1991 Sturbridge Conclave Badge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 
 
Just a shot in the dark. The first AHCA conclave that our Healey ever
attended was the July 27,1991  Sturbridge  Ma. Conclave. 22 years later and a
full restoration later I want to buy a badge bar for our Healey. I would love
to find a badge that I could attach to our healey from that conclave.  SO if
anyone has this and would  be willing to sell it I would love to add it to our
car. Please contact me off the list if you can help me.
             Thanks,
Don 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 18:00:31 2013
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From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20130109152639.0I0Y3.12129.root@pamxwww03-z01>
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	<n22se8he2r7i4j3dkekhd2nkubdgr1soua@4ax.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 16:56:47 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Any chance
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I am pretty sure it would not substitute for Tom's.  It had been cut and 
zippers sewn in so it would fit around the roll bar that is installed.

See  https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0cbn8zwwf0yzuro/eFyE1MZxTK?m

(This photo was taken to show how the car cover was shedding blue powder)

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Cc: "AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Any chance


Before you do, Len, check if your   old blue tonneau is better than
the one that Tom has :-)

-Roland
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 23:01:26 2013
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 11:30:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Tech Tip Article on Ring & Pinion installation?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have a copy of Don Lenschow's article titled "Installation of new 3.55 gears into a Healey Differential".

It is listed on the North Texas AHC Web Site Tech Tips page but doesn't come up when I click on the link.

Ron Mitchell
BN7
BN6
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 23:38:21 2013
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 17:22:31 +1100
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net, healeyron@yahoo.com
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	more information
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tech Tip Article on Ring & Pinion installation?
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Hi Ron, If you are using the Lempert gears, having just completed doing 
2 of these I can tell you that you only need to follow the instructions 
in the Healey workshop manual. The tolerances were excellent and only 
took a little adjustment of the pinion preload shims, which was expected 
with new bearings etc. Backlash was spot on without adjustment of the 
spacers, and one of the 2 is now in a friends BJ8 and working fine. The 
one for my car will take a little longer to see any use, lol
Cheers
Larry
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/

On 10/01/2013 6:30 AM, Ron Mitchell wrote:
> Does anyone have a copy of Don Lenschow's article titled "Installation of new 3.55 gears into a Healey Differential".
>
> It is listed on the North Texas AHC Web Site Tech Tips page but doesn't come up when I click on the link.
>
> Ron Mitchell
> BN7
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 23:49:41 2013
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 07:45:14 +0100
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Any_chance?=
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Stitching? 

 Von: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
An: Skip Saunders <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Any chance
Datum: Wed, 09 Jan 2013 23:51:38 +0100

 LOL---might work--they make several colors of it now!!

tom
---- Skip Saunders <tfsbj7@mindspring.com [1]> wrote: 

=============
Just use duct tape....:-)

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [2]
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 3:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net [3]
Subject: [Healeys] Any chance

one of you might have an old blue touneau cover or hood cover that you
will
never use and you would be willing to cut me some strips from it? I
purchased a pretty good BJ8 touneau cover BUT it has a few holes in it
that
i need to patch.

Thanks
tom
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [4]

Healeys@autox.team.net [6]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [7]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7@mindspring.com
[8]
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Healeys@autox.team.net [12]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [13]

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[14]

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[9]
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[12] javascript:void(0)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 01:23:44 2013
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	<50EE5E27.1000602@cosmos.net.au>
From: F Ronald Rader <f.ronald.rader@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 00:19:53 -0800
To: "varley@cosmos.net.au" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tech Tip Article on Ring & Pinion installation?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

rear end gears
we're installed in my BJ8 and Nash Healey
buy Eric Gundren.
ron

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 9, 2013, at 10:22 PM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> Hi Ron, If you are using the Lempert gears, having just completed doing 2 of
these I can tell you that you only need to follow the instructions in the
Healey workshop manual. The tolerances were excellent and only took a little
adjustment of the pinion preload shims, which was expected with new bearings
etc. Backlash was spot on without adjustment of the spacers, and one of the 2
is now in a friends BJ8 and working fine. The one for my car will take a
little longer to see any use, lol
> Cheers
> Larry
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
>
> On 10/01/2013 6:30 AM, Ron Mitchell wrote:
>> Does anyone have a copy of Don Lenschow's article titled "Installation of
new 3.55 gears into a Healey Differential".
>>
>> It is listed on the North Texas AHC Web Site Tech Tips page but doesn't
come up when I click on the link.
>>
>> Ron Mitchell
>> BN7
>> BN6
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 02:58:07 2013
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To: Healeys@autox.team.net
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?_Any_chance?=
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Stitching? 

 Von: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
An: Skip Saunders <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Any chance
Datum: Wed, 09 Jan 2013 23:51:38 +0100

 LOL---might work--they make several colors of it now!!

tom
---- Skip Saunders <tfsbj7@mindspring.com> wrote: 

=============
Just use duct tape....:-)

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 3:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Any chance

one of you might have an old blue touneau cover or hood cover that you
will
never use and you would be willing to cut me some strips from it? I
purchased a pretty good BJ8 touneau cover BUT it has a few holes in it
that
i need to patch.

Thanks
tom
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 04:33:52 2013
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	UTC
From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: Len and/or Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2013 16:17:09 -0800
References: <20130109152639.0I0Y3.12129.root@pamxwww03-z01>
	<16A8DCD1AAA74C93B3ACB6F85CB3BCBB@LeonardPCPC>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Any chance
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Before you do, Len, check if your   old blue tonneau is better than
the one that Tom has :-)

-Roland

On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 16:05:55 -0800, you wrote:

::Tom:  I just happen to have the old blue tonneau cover that I replaced with
::a new one a few years ago.  If no one else has responded, I would be willing
::cut some strips out of it for you.
::
::(The Other) Len
::Vacaville, CA, USA
::1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
::
::
::----- Original Message -----
::From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts@windstream.net>
::To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
::Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 12:26 PM
::Subject: [Healeys] Any chance
::
::
::> one of you might have an old blue touneau cover or hood cover that  you
::> will never use and you would be willing to cut me some strips from it?  I
::> purchased a pretty good BJ8 touneau cover BUT it has a few holes in it
::> that i need to patch.
::>
::> Thanks
::> tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 06:07:01 2013
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 8:03:15 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>, 
	Healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Any chance
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Won't work---have a few holes to fill.


---- "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote: 

=============
Stitching? 

 Von: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
An: Skip Saunders <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Any chance
Datum: Wed, 09 Jan 2013 23:51:38 +0100

 LOL---might work--they make several colors of it now!!

tom
---- Skip Saunders <tfsbj7@mindspring.com [1]> wrote: 

=============
Just use duct tape....:-)

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [2]
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 3:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net [3]
Subject: [Healeys] Any chance

one of you might have an old blue touneau cover or hood cover that you
will
never use and you would be willing to cut me some strips from it? I
purchased a pretty good BJ8 touneau cover BUT it has a few holes in it
that
i need to patch.

Thanks
tom
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [4]

Healeys@autox.team.net [6]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [7]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7@mindspring.com
[8]
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [10]

Healeys@autox.team.net [12]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [13]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef-eckert@t-online.de
[14]

Links:
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[2] javascript:void(0)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 07:28:23 2013
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From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: "'Bob Johnson'" <bjsbj8@gmail.com>, "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAJTyXLQ-NQP0hpF8F2Z8Y=wgZxNwxmKA+8g3X75sjmiCDbTDsA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 06:24:37 -0800
Thread-Index: AQJmkUReUArz9/oFvTikSNfYvg12gJcRWX+w
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

Same as F150s and 250s I believe.

I replaced a pair last year.  About 75$ in parts and 2 hours per side.
These are notoriously high wear for some reason.

Tracy

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2013 7:56 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints

Does this sound reasonable? So I took my truck in to get a front end
alignment and inspection (in NC) at the same time. They did not do the
alignment because the lower ball joints were to worn to do an alignmnet.
New ball joints are almost $560 installed. But then, however, the ball
joints were not so worn that the truck did pass inspection. Really?

Bob Johnson
who obviously kept the Healey so I could work on it because I have a big
distrust for repair shops maybe?
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 09:10:44 2013
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	<004a01cdef3e$38b79aa0$aa26cfe0$@charter.net>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 08:06:43 -0800
To: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Remember always when checking ball joints that you can not have the  
suspension hanging under tension. You need to take the weight on the  
lower control arm the there is no weight on the ball joint and then  
fell the play.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Jan 10, 2013, at 6:24 AM, Tracy Drummond wrote:

> Bob,
>
> Same as F150s and 250s I believe.
>
> I replaced a pair last year.  About 75$ in parts and 2 hours per side.
> These are notoriously high wear for some reason.
>
> Tracy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys- 
> bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
> Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2013 7:56 AM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints
>
> Does this sound reasonable? So I took my truck in to get a front end
> alignment and inspection (in NC) at the same time. They did not do the
> alignment because the lower ball joints were to worn to do an  
> alignmnet.
> New ball joints are almost $560 installed. But then, however, the ball
> joints were not so worn that the truck did pass inspection. Really?
>
> Bob Johnson
> who obviously kept the Healey so I could work on it because I have  
> a big
> distrust for repair shops maybe?
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 13:41:52 2013
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	<D0F7EA8C-365F-4BAA-81B6-D52E01768D26@sbcglobal.net>
From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 12:37:52 -0800
To: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Perfect.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 10, 2013, at 8:06 AM, David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Remember always when checking ball joints that you can not have the
suspension hanging under tension. You need to take the weight on the lower
control arm the there is no weight on the ball joint and then fell the play.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
> 	Enjoy
> www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
> .
> .
>
> On Jan 10, 2013, at 6:24 AM, Tracy Drummond wrote:
>
>> Bob,
>>
>> Same as F150s and 250s I believe.
>>
>> I replaced a pair last year.  About 75$ in parts and 2 hours per side.
>> These are notoriously high wear for some reason.
>>
>> Tracy
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2013 7:56 AM
>> To: Healeys
>> Subject: [Healeys] No Healey question- Ford ball joints
>>
>> Does this sound reasonable? So I took my truck in to get a front end
>> alignment and inspection (in NC) at the same time. They did not do the
>> alignment because the lower ball joints were to worn to do an alignmnet.
>> New ball joints are almost $560 installed. But then, however, the ball
>> joints were not so worn that the truck did pass inspection. Really?
>>
>> Bob Johnson
>> who obviously kept the Healey so I could work on it because I have a big
>> distrust for repair shops maybe?
>> $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 17:35:22 2013
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From: "Christine Atkinson" <satkinson7314@charter.net>
To: "'healey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 19:31:23 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3vkvwN+hvs62LWRS+Svd/dzxVgyg==
Cc: "'Atkinson, Simon'" <Simon.Atkinson@CapitolLight.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Seats Rails and Muffler Heat Insulation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Finally getting back into the restoration after a 18month break!

Could really use some help in how to locate the correct places to drill
holes for the seat rails/slides and also the muffler insulation panel. I
searched the archives and online and could not find anything!

If you have any advice on measurements from X etc. and also the best order
to do this. Seat rails first etc.

 

If you could also copy your response to simon.atkinson@capitollight.com

 

Thanks for the help!!

 

Simon

 

1959 BT7 Left Hand Drive
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 18:10:09 2013
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References: <5CF9704B4D6F416F915DB0091DAF05D4@AtkinsonPC>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 09:05:19 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314@charter.net>
Cc: healey help <healeys@autox.team.net>, "Atkinson,
	Simon" <Simon.Atkinson@capitollight.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seats Rails and Muffler Heat Insulation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On the bt7 floor pan shouldn't there be a stamped area that the outside
rail bolts to, then the inside rail is determined by bolting the frame
together

On Friday, January 11, 2013, Christine Atkinson wrote:

> Finally getting back into the restoration after a 18month break!
>
> Could really use some help in how to locate the correct places to drill
> holes for the seat rails/slides and also the muffler insulation panel. I
> searched the archives and online and could not find anything!
>
> If you have any advice on measurements from X etc. and also the best order
> to do this. Seat rails first etc.
>
>
>
> If you could also copy your response to simon.atkinson@capitollight.com<javascript:;>
>
>
>
> Thanks for the help!!
>
>
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> 1959 BT7 Left Hand Drive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 19:30:57 2013
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References: <5CF9704B4D6F416F915DB0091DAF05D4@AtkinsonPC>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 21:27:08 -0500
From: Michael J Maloney <mikljmal@gmail.com>
To: Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314@charter.net>
Cc: healey help <healeys@autox.team.net>, "Atkinson,
	Simon" <Simon.Atkinson@capitollight.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seats Rails and Muffler Heat Insulation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Christine/Simon;
Scott Morris sent me,"Heat Shield Dimensions and Patterns," which I used
after seat rail holes were drilled. The 2--1" holes in the heat shield line
up with seat rail bolts.BTW I used riv-nuts to mount all of my heat shields.
The picture of the floor that I have with the dimensions,I think came from
Greg Mandas. Try Him. Because I don't know how to get it in to my
computer,to send it to you.
Mike Maloney 66 HLY
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 03:06:44 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 10:01:09 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anybody else having problems with SC? They appear to be totally
re-organising their distribution system, I ordered 3 Webers that were 'in
stock' about 2 weeks ago and they still have not been dispatched from a
warehouse in Germany! I can't seem to get any sensible answers or any
action., other than 'they will be dispatched the middle of next week,'
...which was the same answer as last week.

I don't plan on using them again.

Derek
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 03:41:20 2013
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From: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
To: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: 11 Jan 2013 11:36:56 +0100
Cc: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
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Derek,

SC Parts (in GB) have been taken over by Limora (in Germany) some years ago. I have not purchased from either personally, but what I've heard from other people (in Germany and UK) is exactly what you're experiencing. They've been offering parts (which I can proof have never existed) for years now (and still do), pretending to have these parts in stock and collecting funds for these parts. The only department not functioning properly is the one in charge of reimbursements. I have spoken to people struggling more than half a year for their reimbursement. Again, no personal experience, but multiple experiences from others.

Good luck!

Eric

Anybody else having problems with SC? They appear to be totally
re-organising their distribution system, I ordered 3 Webers that were 'in
stock' about 2 weeks ago and they still have not been dispatched from a
warehouse in Germany! I can't seem to get any sensible answers or any
action., other than 'they will be dispatched the middle of next week,'
....which was the same answer as last week.

I don't plan on using them again.

Derek
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 04:36:31 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 11:32:06 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: lists <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
Cc: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric,

Thanks for the info even though it's not what I want to hear!

If this has been going on for some time why are The AH Club UK publishing
full page adds in Revcounter every month!

Anybody from the Club care to comment?

Derek


On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 10:36 AM, lists <lists@brits-n-pieces.com> wrote:

> Derek,
>
> SC Parts (in GB) have been taken over by Limora (in Germany) some years
> ago. I have not purchased from either personally, but what I've heard from
> other people (in Germany and UK) is exactly what you're experiencing.
> They've been offering parts (which I can proof have never existed) for
> years now (and still do), pretending to have these parts in stock and
> collecting funds for these parts. The only department not functioning
> properly is the one in charge of reimbursements. I have spoken to people
> struggling more than half a year for their reimbursement. Again, no
> personal experience, but multiple experiences from others.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Eric
>
> Anybody else having problems with SC? They appear to be totally
> re-organising their distribution system, I ordered 3 Webers that were 'in
> stock' about 2 weeks ago and they still have not been dispatched from a
> warehouse in Germany! I can't seem to get any sensible answers or any
> action., other than 'they will be dispatched the middle of next week,'
> ....which was the same answer as last week.
>
> I don't plan on using them again.
>
> Derek
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 04:40:36 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 06:35:07 -0500
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
References: <CAAh8etkgr4BAFUXaDoG0GUbvaktHYa0nKie6ZaLC4WQ5pF9k+g@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
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I had the same problem a couple of years ago.  Never knew when/if parts 
would ship.  Ordered a set of push rods for a Mini - received 4 OEM 
style and 4 tubular. Took a couple of phone calls to straighten that 
out.  So, I've not dealt with them since.

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 01/11/2013 05:01 AM, Derek Job wrote:
> Anybody else having problems with SC? They appear to be totally
> re-organising their distribution system, I ordered 3 Webers that were 'in
> stock' about 2 weeks ago and they still have not been dispatched from a
> warehouse in Germany! I can't seem to get any sensible answers or any
> action., other than 'they will be dispatched the middle of next week,'
> ...which was the same answer as last week.
>
> I don't plan on using them again.
>
> Derek
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 06:39:45 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Derek Job'" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>, "'Forum'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAAh8etkgr4BAFUXaDoG0GUbvaktHYa0nKie6ZaLC4WQ5pF9k+g@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 13:35:36 -0000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
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Yes, problems. Ongoing.
No, won't use them again.
Wouldn't advise others to use them. 
Were OK for a while after the Limora takeover, then right downhill.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Derek Job
Sent: 11 January 2013 10:01
To: Forum
Subject: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts

Anybody else having problems with SC? They appear to be totally
re-organising their distribution system, I ordered 3 Webers that were 'in
stock' about 2 weeks ago and they still have not been dispatched from a
warehouse in Germany! I can't seem to get any sensible answers or any
action., other than 'they will be dispatched the middle of next week,'
...which was the same answer as last week.

I don't plan on using them again.

Derek
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 06:44:44 2013
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	<50f0152b.270bc20a.54bc.0530SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 13:41:04 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Simon.

I only used them because of the 20% discount. Big mistake. The only other
time was when I bought 6 small bolts all of the same type. When they
arrived there were three different sizes included in the 6!

Does anyone know if the parent company Limora is still in good shape?

Has anyone actually received any kindof large order from them recently?

If they are really are as bad as it seems the Club must stop taking their
ads.

Derek




On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> wrote:

> Yes, problems. Ongoing.
> No, won't use them again.
> Wouldn't advise others to use them.
> Were OK for a while after the Limora takeover, then right downhill.
> Simon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Derek Job
> Sent: 11 January 2013 10:01
> To: Forum
> Subject: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
>
> Anybody else having problems with SC? They appear to be totally
> re-organising their distribution system, I ordered 3 Webers that were 'in
> stock' about 2 weeks ago and they still have not been dispatched from a
> warehouse in Germany! I can't seem to get any sensible answers or any
> action., other than 'they will be dispatched the middle of next week,'
> ...which was the same answer as last week.
>
> I don't plan on using them again.
>
> Derek
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 07:20:04 2013
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	Fri, 11 Jan 2013 08:15:52 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Derek Job'" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>, "'Simon Lachlan'"
	<simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <CAAh8etkgr4BAFUXaDoG0GUbvaktHYa0nKie6ZaLC4WQ5pF9k+g@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have added a caveat on their listing on my site. Limora also.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Derek Job
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2013 8:41 AM
To: Simon Lachlan
Cc: Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts

Thanks Simon.

I only used them because of the 20% discount. Big mistake. The only other
time was when I bought 6 small bolts all of the same type. When they arrived
there were three different sizes included in the 6!

Does anyone know if the parent company Limora is still in good shape?

Has anyone actually received any kindof large order from them recently?

If they are really are as bad as it seems the Club must stop taking their
ads.

Derek
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 10:08:33 2013
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From: "Mark Goodman" <mkgoodman@att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 12:04:35 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3wG9HVJYvw3vZBQLeT0EoctU9wFg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] SC Parts is going out of Business
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just got an email informing me that SC parts has a 20% off sale on
everything and they are going out of business.  That is a sad thing since
there are not that many suppliers to begin with.  Please be careful if you
are going to place an order with them.

 

Also, I know of someone that has a BN1 overdrive and a BN2 - BJ8 overdrive
in near new condition if you are interested.  I do not know the prices.

 

Mark Goodman

66BJ8 35503

www.austinhealeyessence.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 10:24:46 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Mark Goodman'" <mkgoodman@att.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <007e01cdf01d$bc323fe0$3496bfa0$@att.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 17:20:59 -0000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] SC Parts is going out of Business
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Was it from a "reliable" source? I spoke to them today. (re the
non-appearance of something!). No hint of closure, not that one wld expect
much. People who wld know are other suppliers. Steve at Cape loves a
gossip......
Simon.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Goodman
Sent: 11 January 2013 17:05
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] SC Parts is going out of Business

I just got an email informing me that SC parts has a 20% off sale on
everything and they are going out of business.  That is a sad thing since
there are not that many suppliers to begin with.  Please be careful if you
are going to place an order with them.

 

Also, I know of someone that has a BN1 overdrive and a BN2 - BJ8 overdrive
in near new condition if you are interested.  I do not know the prices.

 

Mark Goodman

66BJ8 35503

www.austinhealeyessence.com
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 10:25:52 2013
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 12:22:15 -0500
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1357924934;
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Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windshield glass
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi all, looking for recommendations for BN2 windshield glass replacement.

One vendor seems to be $100 less than 2 others.  ($130 vs. $230.) ????

Looking for most correct and correct fit without complications.

TIA.

Randy

Randy Hicks
www.austinhealey100m.com
'56 100 M  White/Black
'56 100 M  Florida Green/OEW
'62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop
'65 BJ8
'53 MGTD
'77 450 SL  (wife's - honest!)
Healey100M@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 10:50:10 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 09:46:09 -0800 (PST)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314@charter.net>,
  healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seats Rails and Muffler Heat Insulation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Simon;  Here are some heat shield diagrams that may help somewhat. 
 
The first file can also be found at John Sims website.
See:  http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Dimensions%20&%20Patterns.pdf
 
For Greg Newton's heat shields, you can also get contact information in his ad
on the Ancaster British Car Flea Market website
 http://www.ancasterbritish.ca/ 
 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Thu, 1/10/13, Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314@charter.net> wrote:


From: Christine Atkinson <satkinson7314@charter.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Seats Rails and Muffler Heat Insulation
To: "'healey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "'Atkinson, Simon'" <Simon.Atkinson@CapitolLight.com>
Received: Thursday, January 10, 2013, 7:31 PM


Finally getting back into the restoration after a 18month break!

Could really use some help in how to locate the correct places to drill
holes for the seat rails/slides and also the muffler insulation panel. I
searched the archives and online and could not find anything!

If you have any advice on measurements from X etc. and also the best order
to do this. Seat rails first etc.

If you could also copy your response to simon.atkinson@capitollight.com

Thanks for the help!!

Simon           1959 BT7 Left Hand Drive

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Dimensions]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Floor-MkII]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Sources-Greg]
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 10:59:36 2013
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References: <007e01cdf01d$bc323fe0$3496bfa0$@att.net>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 09:55:50 -0800
To: "Mark Goodman" <mkgoodman@att.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SC Parts is going out of Business
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The 20% off sale e mail that we received says they are consolidating  
to the German warehouse





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Jan 11, 2013, at 9:04 AM, Mark Goodman wrote:

> I just got an email informing me that SC parts has a 20% off sale on
> everything and they are going out of business.  That is a sad thing  
> since
> there are not that many suppliers to begin with.  Please be careful  
> if you
> are going to place an order with them.
>
>
warehouse
>
>
> Also, I know of someone that has a BN1 overdrive and a BN2 - BJ8  
> overdrive
> in near new condition if you are interested.  I do not know the  
> prices.
>
>
>
> Mark Goodman
>
> 66BJ8 35503
>
> www.austinhealeyessence.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 10:42:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, Derek Job
	<derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Had bad experience last year with an exhaust system.  Price was good.... 
Parts were mix/match and needed cutting.  Ended up getting a refund.  I do not
have good confidence in them at this time.   R.













Robert N. Blair
  Yellow 65BJ8
  RNBmail@yahoo.com

 



--- On Fri, 1/11/13, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:


From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
To: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: "Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, January 11, 2013, 5:41 AM


Thanks Simon.

I only used them because of the 20% discount. Big mistake. The only other
time was when I bought 6 small bolts all of the same type. When they
arrived there were three different sizes included in the 6!

Does anyone know if the parent company Limora is still in good shape?

Has anyone actually received any kindof large order from them recently?

If they are really are as bad as it seems the Club must stop taking their
ads.

Derek




On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> wrote:

> Yes, problems. Ongoing.
> No, won't use them again.
> Wouldn't advise others to use them.
> Were OK for a while after the Limora takeover, then right downhill.
> Simon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Derek Job
> Sent: 11 January 2013 10:01
> To: Forum
> Subject: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
>
> Anybody else having problems with SC? They appear to be totally
> re-organising their distribution system, I ordered 3 Webers that were 'in
> stock' about 2 weeks ago and they still have not been dispatched from a
> warehouse in Germany! I can't seem to get any sensible answers or any
> action., other than 'they will be dispatched the middle of next week,'
> ...which was the same answer as last week.
>
> I don't plan on using them again.
>
> Derek
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 12:35:32 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 20:31:41 +0100
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Fw=3A_Re=3A__Problems_with_SC_Parts?=
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric, 

	its seems your company is a competitor to Limora. So please be quiet
on these things or you can proof what you say. 

	Josef Eckert  

	Germany 

	  Von: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
 An: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
 Cc: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
 Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
 Datum: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 11:36:56 +0100

 Derek,

 SC Parts (in GB) have been taken over by Limora (in Germany) some
years ago. I have not purchased from either personally, but what I've
heard from other people (in Germany and UK) is exactly what you're
experiencing. They've been offering parts (which I can proof have
never existed) for years now (and still do), pretending to have these
parts in stock and collecting funds for these parts. The only
department not functioning properly is the one in charge of
reimbursements. I have spoken to people struggling more than half a
year for their reimbursement. Again, no personal experience, but
multiple experiences from others.

 Good luck!

 Eric
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 12:46:00 2013
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References: <000301cdf020$0666c2f0$133448d0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 20:42:13 +0100
To: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>,
  healeys@autox.team.net
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?SC_Parts_is_going_out_of_Business?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Its not at all true SC Parts is going out of business. As I am
involved I can only say Limora and SC Parts are in good health and
Limora is going to build a new bigger head quarter`s building in a few
months. 

	I am trying to solve Derek`s problem. 

	Josef Eckert 

	Germany  

	  Von: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
 An: "'Mark Goodman'" <mkgoodman@att.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
 Betreff: Re: [Healeys] SC Parts is going out of Business
 Datum: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 18:20:59 +0100

 Was it from a "reliable" source? I spoke to them today. (re the
 non-appearance of something!). No hint of closure, not that one wld
expect
 much. People who wld know are other suppliers. Steve at Cape loves a
 gossip......
 Simon.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 12:57:31 2013
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 06:42:03 +1100
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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	more information
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SC Parts is going out of Business
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

To create a little balance here I can add from personal experience, a 
little while ago I ordered over $2500.00 worth of parts from SC when 
they had one of their free international shipping offers going, it was a 
whole range of parts for my BT7, bulky items and small parts. Everything 
was in stock and it all arrived in just over a week. I'm sure there will 
be people on the list that have had problems at times with all of the 
companies supplying Healey parts.
Cheers
Larry Varley
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 13:02:09 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 20:58:17 +0100
To: "Forum Healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?_SC_Parts_is_going_out_of_Business?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Its not at all true SC Parts is going out of business. As I am
involved I can only say Limora and SC Parts are in good health and
Limora is going to build a new bigger head quarter`s building in a few
months.   

	I am trying to solve Derek`s problem. 

	Josef Eckert 

	Germany
_______________________________________________
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References: <1Ttkk5-0N6Nl20@fwd01.aul.t-online.de>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 20:48:40 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SC Parts is going out of Business
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Josef,

Thanks for the input.

I'm pleased to hear what you have to say regarding Limora, that makes me
feel a lot more comfortable. I will wait until next week and hopefully the
Webers will arrive as promised. What is crazy is that they said they had
them in stock in England. It seems they have shipped them to Germany to be
re-distributed back to the UK.

best regards

Derek


On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 7:58 PM, josef-eckert@t-online.de <
josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote:

> Its not at all true SC Parts is going out of business. As I am
> involved I can only say Limora and SC Parts are in good health and
> Limora is going to build a new bigger head quarter`s building in a few
> months.
>
>         I am trying to solve Derek`s problem.
>
>         Josef Eckert
>
>         Germany
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From: "Mark Goodman" <mkgoodman@att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 17:11:37 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3wSF483aAfbqxqQPm8cR5MWro2dQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] SC PARTS
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I must apologize.  my source must have been wrong.  Please forgive me.

 

Mark
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 16:27:33 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 17:35:33 +0100
To: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>, Healeys@autox.team.net
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Problems_with_SC_Parts?=
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Eric, 

	its seems your company is a competitor to Limora. So please be quiet
on these things or you can proof what you say. 

	Josef Eckert  

	Germany 

	  Von: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
 An: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
 Cc: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
 Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
 Datum: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 11:36:56 +0100

 Derek,

 SC Parts (in GB) have been taken over by Limora (in Germany) some
years ago. I have not purchased from either personally, but what I've
heard from other people (in Germany and UK) is exactly what you're
experiencing. They've been offering parts (which I can proof have
never existed) for years now (and still do), pretending to have these
parts in stock and collecting funds for these parts. The only
department not functioning properly is the one in charge of
reimbursements. I have spoken to people struggling more than half a
year for their reimbursement. Again, no personal experience, but
multiple experiences from others.

 Good luck!

 Eric

 Anybody else having problems with SC? They appear to be totally
 re-organising their distribution system, I ordered 3 Webers that were
'in
 stock' about 2 weeks ago and they still have not been dispatched from
a
 warehouse in Germany! I can't seem to get any sensible answers or any
 action., other than 'they will be dispatched the middle of next
week,'
 ....which was the same answer as last week.

 I don't plan on using them again.

 Derek
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 16:39:11 2013
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 09:35:26 +1000
From: Noel and Helen standfast <hstandfa@iinet.net.au>
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To: Healeys list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Beware of SC parts
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Hi listers

I paid for $180 worth of parts from SC Parts last September and they 
still haven't arrived.  They refused a refund as they claim the shipment 
wasn't trackable or insured but offered me an equivalent discount if I 
place another largish order!  My advice is avoid them like brown snakes

cheers


Noel S
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 16:54:48 2013
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To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
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Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 17:10:45 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 16:05:34 -0800
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: robertlarson@att.net
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another con - fused question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry but  you said
>>The fuse does not protect anything downstream of the
fuse except the wire!
This is incorrect as I showed in my diagram, when correctly placed this is
an incorrect statement.  Any and all components downstream from the fuse
are protected.  If we take your statement and change the word from wire to
component(s) it would be a correct statement.

But what the hell do I know, I just taught this stuff for about 20 years
and edited the electrical fault tracing course manual for a major car
company.
:::shrug:::


On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 3:50 PM, Bob <robertlarson@att.net> wrote:

>  Hi Richard,
>
>                  Been away from this for a few days.
>
>                  I will stand by my comments too.
>
>                  The fact that the fuse blows is indicative of an overload
> condition.  It acts as a safety to prevent damage to the wire or wiring.
> You are correct in your example that the switch may be protected.  However
> that is incidental to the fuse's primary function.   Best practices place
> the fuse as close to the current source as possible.  All is subject to
> Kirchoff's 1st or current law.
>
> Bob
> 55BN1
>
>
> On 1/2/2013 2:56 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
>
> You and Robert are both wrong.
> Picture the two following circuits
> Batt---------switch----------X--fuse----light bulb--gnd
> wire rubs to ground at point X. The switch and wiring upstream of the
> failure will burn out due to the excess current running through it.  it is
> not protected by the fuse.
> Now look at this circuit
> Batt---fuse----switch---X----light bulb---gnd.
> failure is in the same place, point X.  Only this time the switch and the
> wiring is protected by the fuse blowing before the switch is damaged.  The
> switch and wiring is protected by the fuse.
> I stand by my comments.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 1, 2013 at 1:07 PM, Bob <robertlarson@att.net> wrote:
>
>> Conceptually this concept is flawed.   The fuse does not protect anything
>> downstream of the
>> fuse except the wire!
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 17:30:50 2013
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From: "Charlie Schott" <schottc@knology.net>
To: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>, "Christine Atkinson"
	<satkinson7314@charter.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1357926369.81471.YahooMailClassic@web162603.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 16:26:59 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A couple of Healey questions
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Can someone please tell me if the water bottle holder is above or below the 
carpet on the BT7 parcel shelf. Also, could someone please send me a picture 
of the location of the spare tire belt staple since I can't find any 
pre-existing holes showing where it goes. Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 21:42:14 2013
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From: George Haywood <haywoodone@hotmail.com>
To: <schottc@knology.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 23:37:57 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] A couple of Healey questions
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Here you go Charlie, My car is a bj8 but the trunk (boot) floor is the same
for this purpose.  Look at the picture and on the right side of the picture
between the hoop support/ frame extension and the center support you can see a
hole in the floor.  Just to the left of the hole notice two smaller holes in
the floor.  Captive nuts are welded there to the bottom of the boot floor to
attach the coach loop that the tire strap goes through. Take care, George
Haywood'65 bj8


> Can someone please tell me if the water bottle holder is above or below the
> carpet on the BT7 parcel shelf. Also, could someone please send me a picture
> of the location of the spare tire belt staple since I can't find any
> pre-existing holes showing where it goes. Thanks.

> Charlie

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 02:11:56 2013
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From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'List Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 20:07:27 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac3wpD54ncIncy+5TpSasMfUuyb+Sw==
Subject: [Healeys] Camshaft Chain Wheel Nut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

Another warm day in the Great South Land with temperatures over the 100 F or
38 C degree mark.

 

It's time to remove the camshaft from the early C-series engine fitted to
the Quinn Austin-Healey.

 

Would someone know the size of the socket needed to remove the camshaft
chain wheel nut? That's the nut holding the timing chain sprocket in place.

 

Many thanks.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 04:27:06 2013
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From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Dimensions for seat slide holes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Earlier this week someone asked for the dimension of the seat slide holes. I
have posted a photo with all measurements needed on my website. The photo is
of an original floorpan from a rust free original car. the link to the page:
http://healeyspecialists.com/high-quality-resto/

Magnus Karlsson

www.concourshealeys.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 05:43:56 2013
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 06:38:37 -0600
From: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] SC Parts is going out of Business/Now safe buying
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm surprised at the number of people who don't know their credit card
company is on their side. If you have trouble with an order just put it in
dispute with your credit card company. You are their client, not the
vendor. It can usually be done over the phone.

Non delivery is an easy one. Items not as specified another. I bought a
bunch of batteries that turned out to be defective. The vendor refused to
refund my money. I filed a protest,, and my credit card company gave me the
refund.

I always try to use my credit card when purchasing parts. It is essential
on eBay.I rarely get stung, but I always have someone on my side in a
dispute.

Jack
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 07:38:49 2013
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 09:34:48 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
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Probably like most of you, I receive frequent "specials" notifications from SC
Parts. Often the same notification twice the same day. They do not provide any
way to opt out of the mailings & I have emailed them 5 or 6 times requesting
to be removed from their mass mailings but they just keep coming. I am about
to add them to my spam blocker list.
Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 09:11:59 2013
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	<50EFF8EB.7070807@earthlink.net>
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	<8CFBEE91B4E0D28-22D4-11F04@webmail-d154.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 17:08:04 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: warthodson@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

"I am about to add them to my spam blocker list."

I already done it. I was also unfortunate to pay for something and got
another item. They told me it is a "direct replacement". Oh yes: 1.5 degree
negative arm "replaces" the 2.5 degree arm. Ermm.... no.

Gergo

2013/1/12 <warthodson@aol.com>

> Probably like most of you, I receive frequent "specials" notifications
> from SC
> Parts. Often the same notification twice the same day. They do not provide
> any
> way to opt out of the mailings & I have emailed them 5 or 6 times
> requesting
> to be removed from their mass mailings but they just keep coming. I am
> about
> to add them to my spam blocker list.
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 09:43:23 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] USA manufacturer of replica Raydyot mirrors
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Does anyone know the name of the USA manufacturer of the replica "Raydyot"
mirrors?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 10:04:58 2013
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References: <8CFBEFA85317195-1C18-134D7@webmail-m041.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 09:01:05 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA manufacturer of replica Raydyot mirrors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Gary,

Replicas are all over the place as they are big with the kit Cobra
builders eg: 
http://www.finishlineaccessories.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=42  If you want
ones with the "Raydyot" marking, they get expensive fast; 
http://www.billkempercobras.com/Pages/partsforsale.aspx  Don't know where they
are manufactured though.  

Almost got into a forum fistfight with a Cobra guy
who insisted they were "Raydots".  That one gets me right where "Sterling'
Moss does.


 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From:
"warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Saturday, January 12, 2013 11:39 AM
Subject: [Healeys] USA manufacturer of
replica Raydyot mirrors
 
Does anyone know the name of the USA manufacturer of
the replica "Raydyot"
mirrors?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 11:42:08 2013
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 10:37:32 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

*THIS IS LOTS OF FUN, BUT IT SURE IS DIFFICULT. . ENJOY!!*
50's Car Test
*All right you young & older whipper-snappers, lets see how you do. Be
honest with yourself.no cheating. See how you do.*
*The average score is 73%*
*This will really rattle the cobwebs in the 'ol brain.*
*
*
*I missed 8.  Have fun. I did

Car Show Game - 1950s - American Torque
.com<http://www.americantorque.com/game/car-show-50s/>
*
Ira Erbs
IT Teacher and Consultant
LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
Upgrades and general troubleshooting
Portland, OR

*Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines.*

Enzo Ferrari
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 11:52:53 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA manufacturer of replica Raydyot mirrors
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Rick,
Thanks, but I want to get in contact with the actual manufacturer, not
distributors/retailers.
Hopefully, someone can point me in the right direction of give me a lead.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: warthodson <warthodson@aol.com>; healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jan 12, 2013 11:01 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA manufacturer of replica Raydyot mirrors


Hi Gary,

Replicas are all over the place as they are big with the kit Cobra builders
eg:  http://www.finishlineaccessories.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=42 ; If
you want ones with the "Raydyot" marking, they get expensive fast;
http://www.billkempercobras.com/Pages/partsforsale.aspx ; Don't know where
they are manufactured though.

Almost got into a forum fistfight with a Cobra guy who insisted they were
"Raydots".  That one gets me right where "Sterling' Moss does.




Rick
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 12:09:14 2013
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	Sat, 12 Jan 2013 13:05:26 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'HealeyRick'" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>,	<warthodson@aol.com>,
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8CFBEFA85317195-1C18-134D7@webmail-m041.sysops.aol.com>
	<1358010065.85859.YahooMailNeo@web124702.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 14:05:17 -0500
Thread-index: AQHUnswyaE03jJXOKJxDh53wlXcXUwKcv+DsmCPIZwA=
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA manufacturer of replica Raydyot mirrors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Use this link:

http://www.companiesintheuk.co.uk/ltd/truck-lite-co

If you scroll down the page, you will see that Raydyot is the former name of
this company.

I found a catalog on a vendors web site:

http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/raydyot.htm



John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2013 12:01 PM
To: warthodson@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA manufacturer of replica Raydyot mirrors

Hi Gary,

Replicas are all over the place as they are big with the kit Cobra builders
eg: 
http://www.finishlineaccessories.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=42  If you
want ones with the "Raydyot" marking, they get expensive fast;
http://www.billkempercobras.com/Pages/partsforsale.aspx  Don't know where
they are manufactured though.  

Almost got into a forum fistfight with a Cobra guy who insisted they were
"Raydots".  That one gets me right where "Sterling'
Moss does.


 
Rick
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 12:14:05 2013
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References: <CACPMnYrw5gF8T-xAf2jtdBGsMxkBh1phVm7iNweQpYEedPmpDg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 14:10:21 -0500
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I got 92%--I have finally found something at which I excel!

Best--Michael Oritt


On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 1:37 PM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:

> *THIS IS LOTS OF FUN, BUT IT SURE IS DIFFICULT. . ENJOY!!*
> 50's Car Test
> *All right you young & older whipper-snappers, let s see how you do. Be
> honest with yourself .no cheating. See how you do.*
> *The average score is 73%*
> *This will really rattle the cobwebs in the 'ol brain.*
> *
> *
> *I missed 8.  Have fun. I did
>
> Car Show Game - 1950s - American Torque
> .com<http://www.americantorque.com/game/car-show-50s/>
> *
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher and Consultant
> LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
> Upgrades and general troubleshooting
> Portland, OR
>
> *Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines.*
>
> Enzo Ferrari
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 12:28:16 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA manufacturer of replica Raydyot mirrors
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John,
Thanks, but I am trying to locate the manufacturer in the USA that is making
replica Raydyot mirrors.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: 'HealeyRick' <healeyrick@yahoo.com>; warthodson <warthodson@aol.com>;
healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jan 12, 2013 1:05 pm
Subject: RE: [Healeys] USA manufacturer of replica Raydyot mirrors


Use this link:

http://www.companiesintheuk.co.uk/ltd/truck-lite-co

If you scroll down the page, you will see that Raydyot is the former name of
this company.

I found a catalog on a vendors web site:

http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/raydyot.htm



John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2013 12:01 PM
To: warthodson@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] USA manufacturer of replica Raydyot mirrors

Hi Gary,

Replicas are all over the place as they are big with the kit Cobra builders
eg:
http://www.finishlineaccessories.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=42  If you
want ones with the "Raydyot" marking, they get expensive fast;
http://www.billkempercobras.com/Pages/partsforsale.aspx  Don't know where
they are manufactured though.

Almost got into a forum fistfight with a Cobra guy who insisted they were
"Raydots".  That one gets me right where "Sterling'
Moss does.



Rick
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 12:39:40 2013
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 12:37:36 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:11.0) Gecko/20120315
	Firefox/11.0 SeaMonkey/2.8
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYrw5gF8T-xAf2jtdBGsMxkBh1phVm7iNweQpYEedPmpDg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I did that a while back.  As I recall I did okay with Chrysler and 
DeSoto, but really
kissed the turf on GM products.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 12:43:16 2013
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 20:39:25 +0100
To: "Forum Healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Strange for me, most replies are from US members. Why you do not buy
from your usual supliers in the US and take risks of intercontinental
shipping, customs declarations, no legal possibilities, etc.? I think
you have more, perhaps even better, parts suppliers in the US than we
have here in Europe. 

	My own conclusions on this: There are too many cutomers looking for
cheap rather than high  quality parts. This majority makes the policy
of the parts suppliers and as long  as customers do not change their
behaviour, there is no change by the bigger parts suppliers who make
their money by high throughputs.. 

	Josef Eckert 

	Germany
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 13:28:42 2013
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From: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 15:24:51 -0500
	FILETIME=[E2610490:01CDF102]
Subject: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I missed one, the 55 grey hot rod Chevy; I called it a 56, like the Bel Aire
above it.  Should have realized that the four pics would have no duplicates!
GaryB
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 13:31:53 2013
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 12:28:16 -0800
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	A00NEaC9F4YyEm+4m/UbUcdNTu1EVWnua6tqXI3Qz35N2H4doXunjIWHNigA3f10oA
	v4fUA+ouVGesVyk87DYnlOxRQpVnHFNqqfKXIKkrHe+1xFPjJTYJ5D1VMEsU2xiGMW
	w0U8PH69c9YS54nTHd01OhfomV2d/OtHb4ibCNuK/9KG5JZTcd9qpGMWOJsSoEg1l3
	T1xc64XNOQWV3slrBasxUwo9dRGJsyBrQ84itsPjKX8Mxxvx2aRN2eNBxWnXgzAvTi
	R/D/5udFMpxRw==
Subject: [Healeys] car game
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

100%!  Man, I must be old!  But on the other hand I can't remember what
happened yesterday.


Mike
BN2
======================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2013 10:37 AM
Subject: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game


> *THIS IS LOTS OF FUN, BUT IT SURE IS DIFFICULT. . ENJOY!!*
> 50's Car Test
> *All right you young & older whipper-snappers, lets see how you do. Be
> honest with yourself.no cheating. See how you do.*
> *The average score is 73%*
> *This will really rattle the cobwebs in the 'ol brain.*
> *
> *
> *I missed 8.  Have fun. I did
>
> Car Show Game - 1950s - American Torque
> .com<http://www.americantorque.com/game/car-show-50s/>
> *
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 14:25:50 2013
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From: "Dick Matson" <medlabinc@msn.com>
To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 13:21:53 -0800
Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 13:21:53 -0800
	FILETIME=[DB563780:01CDF10A]
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  car game
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45 out of 48.
That was fun.
Thanks for the link.  It did shake out a few cobwebs.
One I knew only because the superintendent of the grade schools drove one to
all the country schools in the 50s.  That would have been in the Midwest.

Dick Matson
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2013 12:28 PM
Subject: [Healeys] car game


100%!  Man, I must be old!  But on the other hand I can't remember what
happened yesterday.


Mike
BN2
======================
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2013 10:37 AM
Subject: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game


> *THIS IS LOTS OF FUN, BUT IT SURE IS DIFFICULT. . ENJOY!!*
> 50's Car Test
> *All right you young & older whipper-snappers, lets see how you do. Be
> honest with yourself.no cheating. See how you do.*
> *The average score is 73%*
> *This will really rattle the cobwebs in the 'ol brain.*
> *
> *
> *I missed 8.  Have fun. I did
>
> Car Show Game - 1950s - American Torque
>
.com<http://www.americantorque.com/game/car-show-50s/<http://www.americantorq
ue.com/game/car-show-50s/>>
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 15:08:05 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <josef-eckert@t-online.de>, "'Forum Healeys'"
  <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1Tu6vN-1sBA800@fwd10.aul.t-online.de>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 22:04:12 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac3w/KVXtmbJQLJZSQeByZ2KnMQ+jgAEp63Q
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Well, Josef, I live about 150 miles from SC and I'm getting the runaround
too. Something which I ordered on the 4th and they said they had in stock
for immediate despatch still has not arrived. I rang them and they said
they'd posted it on the 7th. It's the 12th today. This item is so small and
cheap that its price is completely irrelevant. I only, rather against my
better judgement, ordered it for SC because they're the only ones who claim
to have it in stock.
Simonm

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of josef-eckert@t-online.de
Sent: 12 January 2013 19:39
To: Forum Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts

Strange for me, most replies are from US members. Why you do not buy from
your usual supliers in the US and take risks of intercontinental shipping,
customs declarations, no legal possibilities, etc.? I think you have more,
perhaps even better, parts suppliers in the US than we have here in Europe. 

	My own conclusions on this: There are too many cutomers looking for
cheap rather than high  quality parts. This majority makes the policy of the
parts suppliers and as long  as customers do not change their behaviour,
there is no change by the bigger parts suppliers who make their money by
high throughputs.. 

	Josef Eckert 

	Germany
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 15:13:24 2013
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	<50f1ddfc.464b420a.50b1.fffffa09SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 22:09:31 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon,

Thats my problem too. I'm only about 100 miles away. Quality may be an
issue, I've heard others mention it, but I can't even get the parts I
ordered which is a completely different issue. It's just bad business
practice pure and simple. I have only dealt with SC parts twice and they
have a 100% record of poor performance.

Derek


On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 10:04 PM, Simon Lachlan <
simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:

> Well, Josef, I live about 150 miles from SC and I'm getting the runaround
> too. Something which I ordered on the 4th and they said they had in stock
> for immediate despatch still has not arrived. I rang them and they said
> they'd posted it on the 7th. It's the 12th today. This item is so small and
> cheap that its price is completely irrelevant. I only, rather against my
> better judgement, ordered it for SC because they're the only ones who claim
> to have it in stock.
> Simonm
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of josef-eckert@t-online.de
> Sent: 12 January 2013 19:39
> To: Forum Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
>
> Strange for me, most replies are from US members. Why you do not buy from
> your usual supliers in the US and take risks of intercontinental shipping,
> customs declarations, no legal possibilities, etc.? I think you have more,
> perhaps even better, parts suppliers in the US than we have here in Europe.
>
>         My own conclusions on this: There are too many cutomers looking for
> cheap rather than high  quality parts. This majority makes the policy of
> the
> parts suppliers and as long  as customers do not change their behaviour,
> there is no change by the bigger parts suppliers who make their money by
> high throughputs..
>
>         Josef Eckert
>
>         Germany
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 15:38:33 2013
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From: Quentin Schweninger <quenty2@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 17:34:31 -0500
References: <CACPMnYrw5gF8T-xAf2jtdBGsMxkBh1phVm7iNweQpYEedPmpDg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAPTa0B7LXV53p5vLu979m8URwFDNtDq1XCUnfBqABJibmLgX9Q@mail.gmail.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, Healey List
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael, I got 92% also. I should have known that leadsled was Caddi. Fun!
There is some advantage to bring an old F**t.



On Jan 12, 2013, at 2:10 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:

I got 92%--I have finally found something at which I excel!

Best--Michael Oritt


On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 1:37 PM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:

> *THIS IS LOTS OF FUN, BUT IT SURE IS DIFFICULT. . ENJOY!!*
> 50's Car Test
> *All right you young & older whipper-snappers, let s see how you do. Be
> honest with yourself .no cheating. See how you do.*
> *The average score is 73%*
> *This will really rattle the cobwebs in the 'ol brain.*
> *
> *
> *I missed 8.  Have fun. I did
>
> Car Show Game - 1950s - American Torque
> .com<http://www.americantorque.com/game/car-show-50s/>
> *
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher and Consultant
> LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
> Upgrades and general troubleshooting
> Portland, OR
>
> *Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines.*
>
> Enzo Ferrari
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 15:50:47 2013
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References: <BLU166-ds15BE149BCB51D9B4002683B3280@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:46:50 +1100
From: keith taylor <ktee20@gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

WOW  I got 44.....................consider that almost NONE of these cars
were sold in AUSTRALIA
IS THERE A SCOREAVERAGE  FOR NON RESIDENTS ?

Keith Taylor
WAMBERAL  OZ

On 13 January 2013 07:24, Gary R. Brierton <gbrierton@hotmail.com> wrote:

> I missed one, the 55 grey hot rod Chevy; I called it a 56, like the Bel
> Aire
> above it.  Should have realized that the four pics would have no
> duplicates!
> GaryB
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 16:17:38 2013
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Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 18:13:48 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I got 100%---eat your heart out!!!:)

tom

---- I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:

=============
*THIS IS LOTS OF FUN, BUT IT SURE IS DIFFICULT. . ENJOY!!*
50's Car Test
*All right you young & older whipper-snappers, lets see how you do. Be
honest with yourself.no cheating. See how you do.*
*The average score is 73%*
*This will really rattle the cobwebs in the 'ol brain.*
*
*
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 16:23:41 2013
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From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>,  Forum
	Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
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I haven't been a part of this discussion, but it surprises me that anyone thinks any of us might be looking for cheap parts---certainly not me.

Tom

---- "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote: 

=============
Strange for me, most replies are from US members. Why you do not buy
from your usual supliers in the US and take risks of intercontinental
shipping, customs declarations, no legal possibilities, etc.? I think
you have more, perhaps even better, parts suppliers in the US than we
have here in Europe. 

	My own conclusions on this: There are too many cutomers looking for
cheap rather than high  quality parts. This majority makes the policy
of the parts suppliers and as long  as customers do not change their
behaviour, there is no change by the bigger parts suppliers who make
their money by high throughputs.. 

	Josef Eckert 

	Germany
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 16:30:08 2013
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From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: josef-eckert@t-online.de, Simon Lachlan
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It also begs the question of how in the world would SC know so many people want "cheap: parts?  Do they tell them when they order, and after X number of "cheap" requests, they just start selling all cheap parts??  

Selling inferior parts is a lack of quality concern on the part of the seller and if they want to stay in business, they will do as much as possible to keep quality at a high level.

tom

---- Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote: 

==========
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 17:16:43 2013
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re: " ... after X number of "cheap" requests, they just start selling all cheap parts??"

Not exactly.  The order takers pass the cost complaints on to management.  Or, one part vendor is selling a more 
expensive, (presumably) higher-quality part and another is selling a cheaper version--guess who gets the orders?  
Eventually, the first vendor decides the customer--us--wants the cheap stuff (this is called capitalism--witness 
Walmart, Harbor Freight, etc.).

I talked to a small local vendor one time about this.  He told me he once had a NOS Big Healey bumper for sale; I think 
he was asking $300 or so for it.  No one would buy it--instead, they bought his cheaper aftermarket (read: Chinese) 
copies and complained about the quality.  I've talked to Moss people who say similar.

This was 10 years or so ago, as our cars have become more valuable I believe the vendors and manufacturers are more 
willing to make a higher quality, because we now have valuable collectors' cars instead of jalopies.  For example, Moss 
commissioned manufacture of a quality 6-cyl gas tank to address quality issues from their other suppliers (and they 
aren't gouging on the price, either--wish they had them for the 4-cyl cars).

Bob




On 1/12/2013 3:26 PM, Tom Felts wrote:
> It also begs the question of how in the world would SC know so many people want "cheap: parts?  Do they tell them when they order, and after X number of "cheap" requests, they just start selling all cheap parts??
>
> Selling inferior parts is a lack of quality concern on the part of the seller and if they want to stay in business, they will do as much as possible to keep quality at a high level.
>
> tom
>
> ---- Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>
> ==========
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 17:22:26 2013
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Gotta ask, Tom, when you order parts do you always tell the vendor you want the highest quality parts possible, and 
price is of no concern?

Or, do you ask the price, and grumble a bit if you think it's 'out of line?'


Bob


On 1/12/2013 3:26 PM, Tom Felts wrote:
> It also begs the question of how in the world would SC know so many people want "cheap: parts?  Do they tell them when they order, and after X number of "cheap" requests, they just start selling all cheap parts??
>
> Selling inferior parts is a lack of quality concern on the part of the seller and if they want to stay in business, they will do as much as possible to keep quality at a high level.
>
> tom
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 19:26:44 2013
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I didn't know it was customary to even ask that question.  And, If I have a concern about whether a part is too costly, I will check several other sources--not ask if he has a cheaper version.  When I go to what I believe to be a quality supplier I believe they will sell me quality parts---not cheap stuff.  If they want to play that game, then they should make an effort to give us a choice---a quality part and a not so quality part.  Of course, doubt if many can afford to do that.  

Still can't imagine any quality supplier consciously stocking inferior parts because he "believes" that is what most want.

What kicked off this discussion was the assertion that we get cheap parts because that is what we want, a thought I cannot accept.  We all want the best price we can get for a quality part, so shop around---don't settle for cheap.

tom


---- Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
Gotta ask, Tom, when you order parts do you always tell the vendor you want the highest quality parts possible, and 
price is of no concern?

Or, do you ask the price, and grumble a bit if you think it's 'out of line?'


Bob


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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 20:02:50 2013
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I fail to see how buying based on price will ever do anything but drive 
the quality down. How can you shop on price unless you know all of the 
suppliers use the same manufacturer? Which obviously they don't. This 
list would serve everyone better and maintain the standard if more 
people asked "where will I get the best part X or Y" I don't see this 
happening here. If you want quality ask around. I don't mind naming 
names, I know Moss now do the most correct bumper overrider for the 100, 
and Ahead 4 Healeys are having excellent rear springs made in Europe for 
cars prior to BJ8. I'm sure there are lots of people on the list with 
experience in where the best quality comes from and it will be spread 
across all of the suppliers.
Cheers
Larry Varley
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 20:44:52 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
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One problem is if you don't have any indication of quality many buyers will 
by based upon price (what else do you have to compare?).  The two biggest 
suppliers in the US, Moss and Victoria British, have very nice catalogs with 
exploded diagrams of the various components, and for the most part just a 
parts number and a price.  The Roadster Factory, that specializes in Triumph 
and also does MGB, often offers a cheaper reproduction and a more expensive 
part that is more correct, they are not perfect, but it is nice to have this 
type of explanation and choice, however,  it does make a comprehensive 
catalog more cumbersome, and I am sure also makes the supplier have to carry 
more overhead in the form of inventory, but as a customer it is very nice to 
have a choice.

Greg Lemon
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw:  car game
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It sounds like the one I did a while back, the only ones that confused me 
were some of the old MoPars (Chrysler products).  Couldn't tell my Dodge 
from my Desoto.  Greg Lemon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 12 22:05:00 2013
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 15:49:13 +1100
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
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I think everyone has to keep in mind we are not trying to buy parts for 
a current model Ford, I'm sure there are plenty on the list that 
remember when it was almost impossible to find any parts for a Healey, 
today we are spoiled for choice. Try getting parts for a Nash Healey and 
see how you go. All of the suppliers are try to source parts that are 
required in low volumes, so there will be hold ups, stock shortages etc. 
However I do think that any of the suppliers with online purchasing 
should not accept payment unless they have the parts in stock and can 
ship in reasonable time. The concept of offering a store credit for 
parts they can't supply in reasonable time isn't acceptable.
As an added 2 cents worth, the quality of parts made in China is 
comparable to anywhere else in the world, as always it comes down to, 
you get what you pay for. As a small volume manufacturer myself, I have 
never had a problem with parts I have had made there, but I don't look 
for the cheapest price.....
Cheers
Larry Varley
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 01:24:52 2013
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To: "Forum Healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Larry, 

	I can give an example out of the MG B world. 

	MG Bs are fitted with panel light dimmers. These panel light dimmers
are available from LUCAS for a lets say net vendor price of  $11 and
will be sold for $14 + VAT. These are  well made dimmers made in
China?, I don`t know. Then as a vendor you get offers from Chinese
companies selling dimmers for which they say they ccan be used for the
same purpose. These dimmers are net vendor price 50 Cent and can be
sold for $5 + VAT. A quantity of 100 LUCAS dimmers is to pay $1100
upfront before you have sold them to customers. A quantity of 1000 of
these cheap dimmers are $ 500 and you have even a better profit /
part. And if you have both versions in stock, the cheap ones sells 10
times more than the LUCAS one. Even the cheap one is crap, not working
properly and fails often. 

	Joseff Eckert 

	Germany 

	  Von: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
 An: healeys@autox.team.net
 Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
 Datum: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 05:49:13 +0100

 I think everyone has to keep in mind we are not trying to buy parts
for 
 a current model Ford, I'm sure there are plenty on the list that 
 remember when it was almost impossible to find any parts for a
Healey, 
 today we are spoiled for choice. Try getting parts for a Nash Healey
and 
 see how you go. All of the suppliers are try to source parts that are

 required in low volumes, so there will be hold ups, stock shortages
etc. 
 However I do think that any of the suppliers with online purchasing 
 should not accept payment unless they have the parts in stock and can

 ship in reasonable time. The concept of offering a store credit for 
 parts they can't supply in reasonable time isn't acceptable.
 As an added 2 cents worth, the quality of parts made in China is 
 comparable to anywhere else in the world, as always it comes down to,

 you get what you pay for. As a small volume manufacturer myself, I
have 
 never had a problem with parts I have had made there, but I don't
look 
 for the cheapest price.....
 Cheers
 Larry Varley
 ____
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 01:35:12 2013
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:31:11 +0100
To: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, "Forum Healeys"
	<Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Problems_with_SC_Parts?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon, 

	its all about human beings.Lets tell a short story. A big company
decides to have their stock in parts better organised and centralized.
You do a reorganization and conzentrate your storage and take most of
the storage of a company you brought under enterprise control to the
main stock location. Stuff in the subsidiary you did the change and
took their store of parts off, are lets say it friendly "demotivated",
as they realize they are no more the middle of the world. So they may
change their behaviour also to customers and use it as a valve for
their irritation.  Perhaps such things are currently going on. 

	So it has something to do with streamlining within nowadays big
enterprises. Not nice, but top management driven and they do not care
as they see the better profit at the end of the line. Perhaps stuff in
these now less important subsidiary will be transposed, if they keep
to their unfriendly customer face behaviour. 

	Josef Eckert 

	Germany  

	  Von: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
 An: <josef-eckert@t-online.de>, "'Forum Healeys'"
<Healeys@autox.team.net>
 Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
 Datum: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 23:04:12 +0100

 Well, Josef, I live about 150 miles from SC and I'm getting the
runaround
 too. Something which I ordered on the 4th and they said they had in
stock
 for immediate despatch still has not arrived. I rang them and they
said
 they'd posted it on the 7th. It's the 12th today. This item is so
small and
 cheap that its price is completely irrelevant. I only, rather against
my
 better judgement, ordered it for SC because they're the only ones who
claim
 to have it in stock.
 Simonm
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 01:49:31 2013
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:45:26 +0100
To: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts@windstream.net>, "Forum Healeys"
	<Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Problems_with_SC_Parts?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom, 

	They know, see my previous mail to MG B dimmers. You have both in
stock and just follow what customers are doing. Any propper organised
company has records of their sale over time and who bought the parts,
even customer behaviour and structure records. They know if you are a
friendly customer or a critical one, how much you have bought over
time, how much you send back complaining. Where do you live? 

	I can only say for most customers "cheap is beautiful" buying a cheap
part gives one the kick of the day. 

	I know customers coming to the counter having lists off prices of
competitors with them comparing simultaniously and only buy those
parts which  are cheaper than at the competitor. This is true!! 

	Josef Eckert 

	Germany  

	  Von: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
 An: josef-eckert@t-online.de, Simon Lachlan
<simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>,  'Forum Healeys'
<Healeys@autox.team.net>
 Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
 Datum: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 00:26:20 +0100

 It also begs the question of how in the world would SC know so many
people want "cheap: parts?  Do they tell them when they order, and
after X number of "cheap" requests, they just start selling all cheap
parts??  

 Selling inferior parts is a lack of quality concern on the part of
the seller and if they want to stay in business, they will do as much
as possible to keep quality at a high level.

 tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 01:59:39 2013
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 08:55:18 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Basically as far as SC Parts goes, they are no longer a British
supplier.They are a branch office of Limora which is the largest supplier
of British car parts in Europe although a lot of people on the list have
never heard of them or bought from them. (They are also expensive)

SC Parts  no longer hold any stock in the UK so if you are a UK resident
it's pointless using them even if they were providing a decent service,
which they are not.

Derek



On Sun, Jan 13, 2013 at 8:31 AM, josef-eckert@t-online.de <
josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote:

> Simon,
>
>         its all about human beings.Lets tell a short story. A big company
> decides to have their stock in parts better organised and centralized.
> You do a reorganization and conzentrate your storage and take most of
> the storage of a company you brought under enterprise control to the
> main stock location. Stuff in the subsidiary you did the change and
> took their store of parts off, are lets say it friendly "demotivated",
> as they realize they are no more the middle of the world. So they may
> change their behaviour also to customers and use it as a valve for
> their irritation.  Perhaps such things are currently going on.
>
>         So it has something to do with streamlining within nowadays big
> enterprises. Not nice, but top management driven and they do not care
> as they see the better profit at the end of the line. Perhaps stuff in
> these now less important subsidiary will be transposed, if they keep
> to their unfriendly customer face behaviour.
>
>         Josef Eckert
>
>         Germany
>
>           Von: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
>  An: <josef-eckert@t-online.de>, "'Forum Healeys'"
> <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>  Betreff: RE: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
>  Datum: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 23:04:12 +0100
>
>  Well, Josef, I live about 150 miles from SC and I'm getting the
> runaround
>  too. Something which I ordered on the 4th and they said they had in
> stock
>  for immediate despatch still has not arrived. I rang them and they
> said
>  they'd posted it on the 7th. It's the 12th today. This item is so
> small and
>  cheap that its price is completely irrelevant. I only, rather against
> my
>  better judgement, ordered it for SC because they're the only ones who
> claim
>  to have it in stock.
>  Simonm
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 02:12:35 2013
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 10:08:43 +0100
To: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>, "Forum Healeys"
	<Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Problems_with_SC_Parts?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Derek, 

	You and I are the minority of customers buying most of the parts
needed over the counter. To have a look on the part and decide if you
really want the quality presented. I really try to avoid to buy parts
by postal order and let them delivered. My experience is so bad, I
learnt my lesson. But coming to statistics, more than 97% of goods
value are sold by postal order, less than 3% over the counter. It
doesn`t matter, if you ship from the UK or Germany. Sorry it does.
Shipping costs are cheaper from Germany. 

	Josef Eckert 

	Germany  

	Von: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> 

	An: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de> 

	Cc: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, Forum Healeys
<Healeys@autox.team.net> 

	Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts 

	Datum: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:55:18 +0100 

	     Basically as far as SC Parts goes, they are no longer a British
supplier.They are a branch office of Limora which is the largest
supplier of British car parts in Europe although a lot of people on
the list have never heard of them or bought from them. (They are also
expensive)   SC Parts  no longer hold any stock in the UK so if you
are a UK resident it's pointless using them even if they were
providing a decent service, which they are not.   Derek
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 02:52:38 2013
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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	<1TuJYZ-44Hozw0@fwd56.aul.t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There may be an other option. Try to figure out if the main company is 
on the stock market. If it is do not buy, they only act in the interest 
of the share holders. Buy from a private company if at all possible. 
There lies the biggest chance of interest in selling quality goods as 
these small companies are usually run by enthusiasts. Do not expect a 
computer run parts lists,  expensive catalogues or a decent store/shop 
here. They also usually have rare NOS parts in tatty boxes and second 
hand stuff..
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 13-1-2013 10:08, josef-eckert@t-online.de schreef:
> Derek,
>
> 	You and I are the minority of customers buying most of the parts
> needed over the counter. To have a look on the part and decide if you
> really want the quality presented. I really try to avoid to buy parts
> by postal order and let them delivered. My experience is so bad, I
> learnt my lesson. But coming to statistics, more than 97% of goods
> value are sold by postal order, less than 3% over the counter. It
> doesn`t matter, if you ship from the UK or Germany. Sorry it does.
> Shipping costs are cheaper from Germany.
>
> 	Josef Eckert
>
> 	Germany
>
> 	Von: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
>
> 	An: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
>
> 	Cc: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, Forum Healeys
> <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>
> 	Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
>
> 	Datum: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:55:18 +0100
>
> 	     Basically as far as SC Parts goes, they are no longer a British
> supplier.They are a branch office of Limora which is the largest
> supplier of British car parts in Europe although a lot of people on
> the list have never heard of them or bought from them. (They are also
> expensive)   SC Parts  no longer hold any stock in the UK so if you
> are a UK resident it's pointless using them even if they were
> providing a decent service, which they are not.   Derek
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6027 - datum van uitgifte: 01/12/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 03:36:34 2013
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	<1TuJYZ-44Hozw0@fwd56.aul.t-online.de> <50F282F6.3030901@chello.nl>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 21:32:33 +1100
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Is this a new problem?
14 years ago, when I restored my BJ8, and after I'd bought "new" brake master,
clutch master,rear wheel slave cylinders, clutch slave cylinder etc... My
brake mate said "perfect. Now let's send them all away to get them resleeved
in stainless steel, and then they will be round, won't leak, can be rekitted,
and won't fail".
I did. He was right.
I don't know what the issue is, but a new alloy wheel cylinder on EBay or
whatever, is no comparison to a 48 year old original.
I blame the recent rise in technology like chrome plated plastic....
;-)
Me

Sent from me

On 13/01/2013, at 8:48 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> There may be an other option. Try to figure out if the main company is on
the stock market. If it is do not buy, they only act in the interest of the
share holders. Buy from a private company if at all possible. There lies the
biggest chance of interest in selling quality goods as these small companies
are usually run by enthusiasts. Do not expect a computer run parts lists,
expensive catalogues or a decent store/shop here. They also usually have rare
NOS parts in tatty boxes and second hand stuff..
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 13-1-2013 10:08, josef-eckert@t-online.de schreef:
>> Derek,
>>
>>    You and I are the minority of customers buying most of the parts
>> needed over the counter. To have a look on the part and decide if you
>> really want the quality presented. I really try to avoid to buy parts
>> by postal order and let them delivered. My experience is so bad, I
>> learnt my lesson. But coming to statistics, more than 97% of goods
>> value are sold by postal order, less than 3% over the counter. It
>> doesn`t matter, if you ship from the UK or Germany. Sorry it does.
>> Shipping costs are cheaper from Germany.
>>
>>    Josef Eckert
>>
>>    Germany
>>
>>    Von: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
>>
>>    An: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
>>
>>    Cc: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, Forum Healeys
>> <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>>
>>    Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
>>
>>    Datum: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:55:18 +0100
>>
>>         Basically as far as SC Parts goes, they are no longer a British
>> supplier.They are a branch office
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 04:06:02 2013
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 21:50:23 +1100
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
References: <1TuIo2-0q88rA0@fwd50.aul.t-online.de>
	more information
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Josef, yes I understand how it works, but if everyone who owns an MGB 
tells everyone else that owns an MGB that they are no good, then they 
stop buying them. That is where lists like this should help. For 
instance all of the Healey rubber exhaust mounts we see here in 
Australia are complete rubbish. The vulcanising fails quickly to the 
point that many owns carry spares. Does anyone else have this problem 
and is there a supplier of decent quality?
Cheers
Larry Varley
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 04:21:46 2013
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 12:17:56 +0100
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1TuIo2-0q88rA0@fwd50.aul.t-online.de>
	<50F2916F.2000008@cosmos.net.au>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

See if you can change the construction of the brackets so you can use a 
silent block being compressed by making up to U or L shaped brackets 
with the silent block in between. Another frequently used adaptation is 
to use reinforced straps, usually effective but not very neat or 
pleasing to the eye.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 13-1-2013 11:50, Larry Varley schreef:
> Hi Josef, yes I understand how it works, but if everyone who owns an 
> MGB tells everyone else that owns an MGB that they are no good, then 
> they stop buying them. That is where lists like this should help. For 
> instance all of the Healey rubber exhaust mounts we see here in 
> Australia are complete rubbish. The vulcanising fails quickly to the 
> point that many owns carry spares. Does anyone else have this problem 
> and is there a supplier of decent quality?
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6027 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 01/12/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 07:25:19 2013
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 22:21:10 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone who's ever owned a late model MGB would never buy a panel dimmer if
they knew it was cheap.  The Lucas ones were bad enough as they were, I
certainly would never go cheaper on that part!

Look, the problem with SC parts is the same problem that Limora has as well
as Moss.  They serve multiple marques, which means they never did any
specific marque particularly well or completely.  Moss, of late, has been
making strides to improve here as their customers have demanded better
quality for their cars which are worth close to 6 digits now, but
ultimately I've learned to order from the Healey specialists because they
know what parts are good out there and what isn't.  Plus they get a shop
discount so I know they still make a bit of profit whilst having the same
prices as the big parts shops.

So rather than ordering from Moss, order from David Nock/BCS or Autofarm.
 Rather than ordering from SC parts, order from Steve Norton or AH Spares
or Ahead.  Save yourself the headache!

On Sun, Jan 13, 2013 at 4:20 PM, josef-eckert@t-online.de <
josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote:

> Larry,
>
>         I can give an example out of the MG B world.
>
>         MG Bs are fitted with panel light dimmers. These panel light
> dimmers
> are available from LUCAS for a lets say net vendor price of  $11 and
> will be sold for $14 + VAT. These are  well made dimmers made in
> China?, I don`t know. Then as a vendor you get offers from Chinese
> companies selling dimmers for which they say they ccan be used for the
> same purpose. These dimmers are net vendor price 50 Cent and can be
> sold for $5 + VAT. A quantity of 100 LUCAS dimmers is to pay $1100
> upfront before you have sold them to customers. A quantity of 1000 of
> these cheap dimmers are $ 500 and you have even a better profit /
> part. And if you have both versions in stock, the cheap ones sells 10
> times more than the LUCAS one. Even the cheap one is crap, not working
> properly and fails often.
>
>         Joseff Eckert
>
>         Germany
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:35:46 -0500
From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAAh8etm8PtvTccSkm0iwRpYk8bThVA4yYqJZiH03EzeG6q=JVg@mail.gmail.com>
	<1TuJYZ-44Hozw0@fwd56.aul.t-online.de> <50F282F6.3030901@chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am with Kees here.  That is why I mostly buy from Healey Surgeons or 
British Car Specialists in this country, as I know they know what is 
quality and what is crap, and will tell you when you ask.  Crap parts 
are not cheap, if you have to replace them twice.  Think about an oil 
pump; you might have to do the whole engine over.

John
64/66 Bj8s

On 1/13/2013 4:48 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> There may be an other option. Try to figure out if the main company is 
> on the stock market. If it is do not buy, they only act in the 
> interest of the share holders. Buy from a private company if at all 
> possible. There lies the biggest chance of interest in selling quality 
> goods as these small companies are usually run by enthusiasts. Do not 
> expect a computer run parts lists,  expensive catalogues or a decent 
> store/shop here. They also usually have rare NOS parts in tatty boxes 
> and second hand stuff..
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 07:54:42 2013
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From: linwoodrose@mac.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:50:48 -0500
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone installed the Dutch developed EZ electric power steering in their Big Healey? Apparently these folks are an American agent for the company.
http://www.thedrivenman.com/ez-solo.htm

 Most all of the reports from those who have installed the units are positive, I am just wondering about self installation and any issues encountered by those who may have installed a unit. 

Don't know that I want to go this way - just researching at this point. Wasn't there an article in the Marque or Healey Magazine about an install? If so, I can't seem to find it.

Thanks, 

Lin

Sent from my iPad
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 08:11:40 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Alan Seigrist'" <healey.nut@gmail.com>, <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
References: <1TuIo2-0q88rA0@fwd50.aul.t-online.de>
	<CAFBXTkKzaP0jNew7sty9zD3Uyzh58=sEznQneoxmZVf9AsDF6g@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 08:07:45 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac3xmUj2VLUi1T+3SvGWKG5AZoBZvQABCoVQ
Cc: 'Forum Healeys' <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Problems with SC Parts
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A short story, recently my dog chased a neighbors dog off my property and
took a mouthful of hide out of it, rather than discuss the issue, the
neighbor went on the neighborhood email list and started making untrue
accusations about my dog. Since I didn't respond publicly to her allegations
I can feel the tension from the recipients of her emails. 
 I think you all get the point I'm making. Aside from being bad business
practice to bad mouth your competition, there is always the other side of
the story. 
 The truth is that there ARE multiple suppliers for cars that are over 50
years old is astounding on its face. Are they all perfect, no. The point
here is that with a little knowledge that the parts may require extra time
to fit should not come as a surprise and be accepted to a degree. The adage
that you get what you pay for still holds true. Of course if you never get
the part (order) well yes that's another issue altogether.
 End of soapbox opinion.
Regards, dave


frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2013 7:21 AM
To: josef-eckert@t-online.de
Cc: Forum Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Problems with SC Parts

Anyone who's ever owned a late model MGB would never buy a panel dimmer if
they knew it was cheap.  The Lucas ones were bad enough as they were, I
certainly would never go cheaper on that part!

Look, the problem with SC parts is the same problem that Limora has as well
as Moss.  They serve multiple marques, which means they never did any
specific marque particularly well or completely.  Moss, of late, has been
making strides to improve here as their customers have demanded better
quality for their cars which are worth close to 6 digits now, but
ultimately I've learned to order from the Healey specialists because they
know what parts are good out there and what isn't.  Plus they get a shop
discount so I know they still make a bit of profit whilst having the same
prices as the big parts shops.

So rather than ordering from Moss, order from David Nock/BCS or Autofarm.
 Rather than ordering from SC parts, order from Steve Norton or AH Spares
or Ahead.  Save yourself the headache!

On Sun, Jan 13, 2013 at 4:20 PM, josef-eckert@t-online.de <
josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote:

> Larry,
>
>         I can give an example out of the MG B world.
>
>         MG Bs are fitted with panel light dimmers. These panel light
> dimmers
> are available from LUCAS for a lets say net vendor price of  $11 and
> will be sold for $14 + VAT. These are  well made dimmers made in
> China?, I don`t know. Then as a vendor you get offers from Chinese
> companies selling dimmers for which they say they ccan be used for the
> same purpose. These dimmers are net vendor price 50 Cent and can be
> sold for $5 + VAT. A quantity of 100 LUCAS dimmers is to pay $1100
> upfront before you have sold them to customers. A quantity of 1000 of
> these cheap dimmers are $ 500 and you have even a better profit /
> part. And if you have both versions in stock, the cheap ones sells 10
> times more than the LUCAS one. Even the cheap one is crap, not working
> properly and fails often.
>
>         Joseff Eckert
>
>         Germany
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 08:25:39 2013
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	<50F2916F.2000008@cosmos.net.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: warthodson@aol.com
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Yes, everyone I know has had trouble with the rubber exhauast mounts. I am
reasonably sure we have purchased them from most of the suppliers, even some
suppliers who claim theirs are superior. If there is a source of good ones I
would also like to know.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Varley varley@cosmos.net.au


Hi Josef, yes I understand how it works, but if everyone who owns an MGB
tells everyone else that owns an MGB that they are no good, then they
stop buying them. That is where lists like this should help. For
instance all of the Healey rubber exhaust mounts we see here in
Australia are complete rubbish. The vulcanising fails quickly to the
point that many owns carry spares. Does anyone else have this problem
and is there a supplier of decent quality?
Cheers
Larry Varley
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 08:46:33 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] Problems with parts
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I will say something nice about a recent experience with Moss.
I reported to Moss & to this list that the instructions for their offset
camber bushings appeared to be incorrect (backwards).
Moss contacted me to say they were going to look into it in the near future &
just wanted me to know they received the email.
Later they contacted me to report that their investigation confirmed that the
instructions were incorrect & that they were revising the instructions.
That is good customer service & what I expect from every supplier.
I also know for a fact that many times customers never report problems with
parts & that is why inferior parts continue to be shipped.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist healey.nut@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Problems with SC Parts


I've learned to order from the Healey specialists because they
know what parts are good out there and what isn't.  Plus they get a shop
discount so I know they still make a bit of profit whilst having the same
prices as the big parts shops.

So rather than ordering from Moss, order from David Nock/BCS or Autofarm.
 Rather than ordering from SC parts, order from Steve Norton or AH Spares
or Ahead.  Save yourself the headache!
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 09:46:03 2013
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To: linwoodrose@mac.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 08:40:30 -0800
From: rd_parker@juno.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Lin,

Logically, why would a power assisted steering be needed in such a light
vehicle as the AH?  I could possibly for see PS for parking, but that is
all.  It seems like a colossal waste of money in my opinion.

Bob P.
Bellflower, CA. 
On Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:50:48 -0500 linwoodrose@mac.com writes:
> Anyone installed the Dutch developed EZ electric power steering in 
> their Big Healey? Apparently these folks are an American agent for 
> the company.
> http://www.thedrivenman.com/ez-solo.htm
> 
>  Most all of the reports from those who have installed the units are 
> positive, I am just wondering about self installation and any issues 
> encountered by those who may have installed a unit. 
> 
> Don't know that I want to go this way - just researching at this 
> point. Wasn't there an article in the Marque or Healey Magazine 
> about an install? If so, I can't seem to find it.
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Lin
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker@juno.com
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <31ABE286-B8D6-4C34-9380-5DD35DBF43D8@mac.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If you are intending to install the power steering yourself it might be 
of interest to investigate if you can convert an existing system 
yourself. Apparently you need a completely self sustaining system that 
does not require the main overall control unit in the car.
I have heard that the power steering from an Opel/vauxhall Corsa is 
often used by EZ and the likes, but there should be others. I presume 
one could look at the smaller Japanese and Korean cars like Toyota, 
Nissan, Suzuki, Honda, Chevrolet, Hyundai and perhaps some of the small 
French and Italian cars: Fiat, Peugeot, Citroen, Renault.
See if you can also introduce a collapsible section in the steering column.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 13-1-2013 15:50, linwoodrose@mac.com schreef:
> Anyone installed the Dutch developed EZ electric power steering in their Big Healey? Apparently these folks are an American agent for the company.
> http://www.thedrivenman.com/ez-solo.htm
>
>   Most all of the reports from those who have installed the units are positive, I am just wondering about self installation and any issues encountered by those who may have installed a unit.
>
> Don't know that I want to go this way - just researching at this point. Wasn't there an article in the Marque or Healey Magazine about an install? If so, I can't seem to find it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lin
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
>
> -----
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> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6027 - datum van uitgifte: 01/12/13
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>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 14:05:01 -0500
From: dwflagg@juno.com
	dddc61dd61c8dc4848712931e1b8752c75f99d28a99dcd3535a8a9c511d9d195a19dd8dd6cc8a9dcb1e57dfcb1657d9865f82d38c84c01b54ca549417168e191e1f9cc78e181191909
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

I totally agree. Like having AC. Put the hood down !! It amazes me that
people will spend all kinds of money on these "extras", but are cheap
when it comes to the necessities. As Dave said "You get what you pay
for". The only way a supplier knows they have a quality control problem
is if you tell them. IMHO.

Cheers,

Doug

> Lin,
> 
> Logically, why would a power assisted steering be needed in such a 
> light
> vehicle as the AH?  I could possibly for see PS for parking, but 
> that is
> all.  It seems like a colossal waste of money in my opinion.
> 
> Bob P.
> Bellflower, CA. 
> On Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:50:48 -0500 linwoodrose@mac.com writes:
> > Anyone installed the Dutch developed EZ electric power steering in 
> 
> > their Big Healey? Apparently these folks are an American agent for 
> 
> > the company.
> > http://www.thedrivenman.com/ez-solo.htm
> > 
> >  Most all of the reports from those who have installed the units 
> are 
> > positive, I am just wondering about self installation and any 
> issues 
> > encountered by those who may have installed a unit. 
> > 
> > Don't know that I want to go this way - just researching at this 
> > point. Wasn't there an article in the Marque or Healey Magazine 
> > about an install? If so, I can't seem to find it.
> > 
> > Thanks, 
> > 
> > Lin
> > 
> > Sent from my iPad
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > 
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker@juno.com
> > 
> > 
>  
> ____________________________________________________________
> Woman is 53 But Looks 25
> Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/50f2e3ae71e4863ad6a41st02vuc
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> 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 12:24:38 2013
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 14:20:47 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>,  Forum
	Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
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I think I am interpretating your use of the word "cheap" in a different concept.  I think you mean inexpensive---that I can relate to.  For some reason (my fault), I thought you were talking about cheap parts---as in inferior quality.

We all want good parts at the best (least expensive) price we can get------now---if a supplier interprets that as cheapening down the quality of parts to meet our less expensive demands, that is not good---for us anyway.

TRom



---- "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote: 

=============
Tom, 

	They know, see my previous mail to MG B dimmers. You have both in
stock and just follow what customers are doing. Any propper organised
company has records of their sale over time and who bought the parts,
even customer behaviour and structure records. They know if you are a
friendly customer or a critical one, how much you have bought over
time, how much you send back complaining. Where do you live? 

	I can only say for most customers "cheap is beautiful" buying a cheap
part gives one the kick of the day. 

	I know customers coming to the counter having lists off prices of
competitors with them comparing simultaniously and only buy those
parts which  are cheaper than at the competitor. This is true!! 

	Josef Eckert 

	Germany  
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 12:48:41 2013
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 11:42:21 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <1TuIo2-0q88rA0@fwd50.aul.t-online.de>
	<50F2916F.2000008@cosmos.net.au>
	<8CFBFB8AF480D19-1D38-17787@webmail-m075.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] rubber exhaust mounts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the problem with the stock muffler hangers is inherent in the design.

I designed new muffler mounts for the BT7. They replace the front one 
where the exhaust pipes meet the muffler and the back one where the 
pipes hold up the muffler. They use the existing bolt holes and some 
currently produced stock muffler hanger parts. However, one does have 
to have portions of the metal hangers fabricated and a rod needs to 
be welded to the muffler for the front hanger. They can be installed 
and removed easily. Another benefit is the rear one can be removed 
and the muffler will rotate downward while the front one is left in 
place. I have not driven the car yet but I did start the car and they 
did not fall off and there did not seem to be any undesirable vibration.

I will send some pictures to John Sim's in the next few days.

John, thank you for hosting all of the Healey information on your web site.

John Spaur
San Jose, CA
'62 BT7

At 10:20 AM 1/13/2013 -0500, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>Yes, everyone I know has had trouble with the rubber exhauast mounts. I am
>reasonably sure we have purchased them from most of the suppliers, even some
>suppliers who claim theirs are superior. If there is a source of good ones I
>would also like to know.
>Gary Hodson
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Larry Varley varley@cosmos.net.au
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	<6.2.3.4.2.20130113105249.020353b0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 15:26:04 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] rubber exhaust mounts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

In one of Geoff's books he makes brief mention of exhaust mount failures on
one of the "specials", apparently the problem was solved once the Dunlop
engineers became involved and demonstrated just how to properly bond rubber
to steel.
We used to have endless failures of after market mounts but a one time I
had some OEM mounts and took the time to put one to the test.
The rubber of the mount tore apart, did not separate from the steel, at a
load of well over 100 lbs. Design is not the problem however the
manufacturing of the currently available mounts may be suspect.

Michael S


On Sun, Jan 13, 2013 at 2:42 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I think the problem with the stock muffler hangers is inherent in the
> design.
>
> I designed new muffler mounts for the BT7. They replace the front one
> where the exhaust pipes meet the muffler and the back one where the pipes
> hold up the muffler. They use the existing bolt holes and some currently
> produced stock muffler hanger parts. However, one does have to have
> portions of the metal hangers fabricated and a rod needs to be welded to
> the muffler for the front hanger. They can be installed and removed easily.
> Another benefit is the rear one can be removed and the muffler will rotate
> downward while the front one is left in place. I have not driven the car
> yet but I did start the car and they did not fall off and there did not
> seem to be any undesirable vibration.
>
> I will send some pictures to John Sim's in the next few days.
>
> John, thank you for hosting all of the Healey information on your web site.
>
> John Spaur
> San Jose, CA
> '62 BT7
>
>
> At 10:20 AM 1/13/2013 -0500, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Yes, everyone I know has had trouble with the rubber exhauast mounts. I am
>> reasonably sure we have purchased them from most of the suppliers, even
>> some
>> suppliers who claim theirs are superior. If there is a source of good
>> ones I
>> would also like to know.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Larry Varley varley@cosmos.net.au
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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>
>


-- 
Michael Salter

                         *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 12:32:47 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
	mail.com>
References: <1TuIo2-0q88rA0@fwd50.aul.t-online.de>
	<50F2916F.2000008@cosmos.net.au>
	<8CFBFB8AF480D19-1D38-17787@webmail-m075.sysops.aol.com>
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	<CAB3i7LL+hBPWjz3OgkXGZUrLpqQ_G6p-+u0_h1hzjcvag3UfWw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] rubber exhaust mounts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net


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From: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 07:58:47 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac3xz/2ssmlH4Wl3S3aNM2FcXiEZ3A==
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Subject: [Healeys] Rubber exhaust mounts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have fixed a few with a less than ideal solution for friends who want to
retain an original look, by drilling through the mount and fitting a
countersunk screw from the rear, tapped through the front plate, then
riveted over and dressed off flush. I haven't noticed any extra vibration in
my 100, and seems to also be fine in a friend's BJ8. Link to an image of the
modified mount below.

Cheers

Larry Varley

http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/mount.jpg
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 14:20:43 2013
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i deal mostly with moss and i have found when i get a part i do not feel is correct, i talk to blaine in tech support or someone in customer service.  they always make it right, either returning my money or sending me a new part.  a reputable company stays in business that way.
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From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 06:01:34 +0800
To: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

To be fair Lin isn't cheap about anything on his car!

Alan

On Jan 14, 2013, at 3:05 AM, dwflagg@juno.com wrote:

> Bob,
>
> I totally agree. Like having AC. Put the hood down !! It amazes me that
> people will spend all kinds of money on these "extras", but are cheap
> when it comes to the necessities. As Dave said "You get what you pay
> for". The only way a supplier knows they have a quality control problem
> is if you tell them. IMHO.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Doug
>
>> Lin,
>>
>> Logically, why would a power assisted steering be needed in such a
>> light
>> vehicle as the AH?  I could possibly for see PS for parking, but
>> that is
>> all.  It seems like a colossal waste of money in my opinion.
>>
>> Bob P.
>> Bellflower, CA.
>> On Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:50:48 -0500 linwoodrose@mac.com writes:
>>> Anyone installed the Dutch developed EZ electric power steering in
>>
>>> their Big Healey? Apparently these folks are an American agent for
>>
>>> the company.
>>> http://www.thedrivenman.com/ez-solo.htm
>>>
>>> Most all of the reports from those who have installed the units
>> are
>>> positive, I am just wondering about self installation and any
>> issues
>>> encountered by those who may have installed a unit.
>>>
>>> Don't know that I want to go this way - just researching at this
>>> point. Wasn't there an article in the Marque or Healey Magazine
>>> about an install? If so, I can't seem to find it.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Lin
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker@juno.com
>>
>> ____________________________________________________________
>> Woman is 53 But Looks 25
>> Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
>> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/50f2e3ae71e4863ad6a41st02vuc
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg@juno.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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References: <000001cdf1d0$c8b2e030$5a18a090$@cosmos.net.au>
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 06:07:07 +0800
To: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rubber exhaust mounts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think on the 100 if everything lines up properly, the original mount works
just fine.  The BJ8 system, however, is such a snug fit and requires force to
fit properly, this option is needed!  I use reinforced exhaust straps but
admittedly this looks more original.

I used this same mod on my Jag Mk IX, the exhaust system weighs as much as a
baby elephant.

Alan

On Jan 14, 2013, at 4:58 AM, "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> I have fixed a few with a less than ideal solution for friends who want to
> retain an original look, by drilling through the mount and fitting a
> countersunk screw from the rear, tapped through the front plate, then
> riveted over and dressed off flush. I haven't noticed any extra vibration
in
> my 100, and seems to also be fine in a friend's BJ8. Link to an image of
the
> modified mount below.
>
> Cheers
>
> Larry Varley
>
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/mount.jpg
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 15:49:53 -0600
To: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

100+ degree Texas summers days with nighttime lows in the 80s make AC a extra
luxury I would love to have.

On Jan 13, 2013, at 1:05 PM, dwflagg@juno.com wrote:

> Bob,
>
> I totally agree. Like having AC. Put the hood down !! It amazes me that
> people will spend all kinds of money on these "extras", but are cheap
> when it comes to the necessities. As Dave said "You get what you pay
> for". The only way a supplier knows they have a quality control problem
> is if you tell them. IMHO.
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 16:34:34 2013
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From: linwoodrose@mac.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 18:29:32 -0500
To: "rd_parker@juno.com" <rd_parker@juno.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob and others,
I have been on this list for years. I love it. I have learned from it. I have developed good friends as a result of it, and from time to time I have tried to contribute to help someone else. I have built a pretty nice car due in large measure to the knowledge I have garnered from others on this list.

I respect that everyone is entitled to their opinion and should be free to express it; however, I am often amused but some times irritated when people offer their views with no applicable experience or knowledge base. I asked to hear from someone who might have knowledge of the EZ system and preferably someone who has actually installed one on their car, I didn't ask to hear from people who have uninformed opinions with no first hand knowledge.

I specifically said that I had not made a decision to purchase or install a unit, I merely asked for information so that I might learn more about it before forming an opinion. 

I absolutely love perfectly ORIGINAL restored and unrestored Healeys. When I go to car shows it is the concours cars I seek out first to appreciate what was so great about the vintage. I love modified Healeys, too. I really like that some people thought it might be cool to replace our original but arcane steering box with rack and pinion, (as in my Bugeye), and I really liked that someone thought it might make sense to use a throttle cable in their Big Healey (again, as in my Bugeye) instead of the Rube Goldberg mechanical linkage. I REALLY like that someone thought it might be exciting to install EFI in that big hunk of iron we sit behind, and it was certainly nice that someone put together a kit to mount a Toyota five speed in our cars. 

None of these modifications might be well suited for a particular Healey owner, but I for one like to hear and learn about innovations and creative thoughts, whether I adopt them or not.

Now, sorry for that. But is there any brave soul out their with first-hand knowledge of these EZ electric power steering systems in a Big Healey? :o)

Lin

1959 AN5 Sprite Bugeye
1960 BT7 3000 MkI - first car I ever owned and still have it!
1964 Jaguar MK2 - current project
Sent from my iPad

On Jan 13, 2013, at 11:40 AM, rd_parker@juno.com wrote:

> Lin,
> 
> Logically, why would a power assisted steering be needed in such a light
> vehicle as the AH?  I could possibly for see PS for parking, but that is
> all.  It seems like a colossal waste of money in my opinion.
> 
> Bob P.
> Bellflower, CA. 
> On Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:50:48 -0500 linwoodrose@mac.com writes:
>> Anyone installed the Dutch developed EZ electric power steering in 
>> their Big Healey? Apparently these folks are an American agent for 
>> the company.
>> http://www.thedrivenman.com/ez-solo.htm
>> 
>> Most all of the reports from those who have installed the units are 
>> positive, I am just wondering about self installation and any issues 
>> encountered by those who may have installed a unit. 
>> 
>> Don't know that I want to go this way - just researching at this 
>> point. Wasn't there an article in the Marque or Healey Magazine 
>> about an install? If so, I can't seem to find it.
>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> 
>> Lin
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> 
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker@juno.com
> 
> ____________________________________________________________
> Woman is 57 But Looks 27
> Mom publishes simple facelift trick that angered doctors...
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/50f2e3ae71dd863ad7150st04vuc
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Lin,

Very well put.  If you get any good info on the system, please share it 
with the list.  It is interesting to note that on the website that you 
provided a link to, there appears to be a big Healey in the next bay 
over from where the video is shot, and the picture of the system looks 
like it has a Jaguar steering wheel.

Someone with a system like this stopped and gave me a brochure about it 
at Hershey this year while I was standing next to the XKE that we have 
for sale.  Unfortunately, when I cleaned the car out later, I threw it away.

Take care.

Charlie

On 1/13/2013 6:29 PM, linwoodrose@mac.com wrote:
> Bob and others,
> I have been on this list for years. I love it. I have learned from it. I have developed good friends as a result of it, and from time to time I have tried to contribute to help someone else. I have built a pretty nice car due in large measure to the knowledge I have garnered from others on this list.
>
> I respect that everyone is entitled to their opinion and should be free to express it; however, I am often amused but some times irritated when people offer their views with no applicable experience or knowledge base. I asked to hear from someone who might have knowledge of the EZ system and preferably someone who has actually installed one on their car, I didn't ask to hear from people who have uninformed opinions with no first hand knowledge.
>
> I specifically said that I had not made a decision to purchase or install a unit, I merely asked for information so that I might learn more about it before forming an opinion.
>
> I absolutely love perfectly ORIGINAL restored and unrestored Healeys. When I go to car shows it is the concours cars I seek out first to appreciate what was so great about the vintage. I love modified Healeys, too. I really like that some people thought it might be cool to replace our original but arcane steering box with rack and pinion, (as in my Bugeye), and I really liked that someone thought it might make sense to use a throttle cable in their Big Healey (again, as in my Bugeye) instead of the Rube Goldberg mechanical linkage. I REALLY like that someone thought it might be exciting to install EFI in that big hunk of iron we sit behind, and it was certainly nice that someone put together a kit to mount a Toyota five speed in our cars.
>
> None of these modifications might be well suited for a particular Healey owner, but I for one like to hear and learn about innovations and creative thoughts, whether I adopt them or not.
>
> Now, sorry for that. But is there any brave soul out their with first-hand knowledge of these EZ electric power steering systems in a Big Healey? :o)
>
> Lin
>
> 1959 AN5 Sprite Bugeye
> 1960 BT7 3000 MkI - first car I ever owned and still have it!
> 1964 Jaguar MK2 - current project
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jan 13, 2013, at 11:40 AM, rd_parker@juno.com wrote:
>
>> Lin,
>>
>> Logically, why would a power assisted steering be needed in such a light
>> vehicle as the AH?  I could possibly for see PS for parking, but that is
>> all.  It seems like a colossal waste of money in my opinion.
>>
>> Bob P.
>> Bellflower, CA.
>> On Sun, 13 Jan 2013 09:50:48 -0500 linwoodrose@mac.com writes:
>>> Anyone installed the Dutch developed EZ electric power steering in
>>> their Big Healey? Apparently these folks are an American agent for
>>> the company.
>>> http://www.thedrivenman.com/ez-solo.htm
>>>
>>> Most all of the reports from those who have installed the units are
>>> positive, I am just wondering about self installation and any issues
>>> encountered by those who may have installed a unit.
>>>
>>> Don't know that I want to go this way - just researching at this
>>> point. Wasn't there an article in the Marque or Healey Magazine
>>> about an install? If so, I can't seem to find it.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Lin
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker@juno.com
>> ____________________________________________________________
>> Woman is 57 But Looks 27
>> Mom publishes simple facelift trick that angered doctors...
>> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/50f2e3ae71dd863ad7150st04vuc
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 16:58:18 2013
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	<50F2E66C.8050404@chello.nl>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 07:53:54 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Kees -

Opel/Vauxhall power steering units you are talking about are
electro-hydraulic pumps.  They are only good to retrofit to cars that had
older mechanical style hydraulic pumps (as what I've fitted to my Jag Mk
IX), and a steering box or rack that is hydraulically assisted.  What Lin
is talking about is the modern pure electrical motor assist - it's a big
job because you aren't just redoing a bit of hydraulic plumbing, you are
also dealing with the shaft gearing and mounts, etc.  This type of
conversion should only be done as a complete kit from someone else who's
engineered the system.

Strangely enough, I think the only guy in the world that I know that does
this is in your neck of the woods:

http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/car/7/5/Austin-Healey.html

Best regards,

Alan

On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 12:53 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> If you are intending to install the power steering yourself it might be of
> interest to investigate if you can convert an existing system yourself.
> Apparently you need a completely self sustaining system that does not
> require the main overall control unit in the car.
> I have heard that the power steering from an Opel/vauxhall Corsa is often
> used by EZ and the likes, but there should be others. I presume one could
> look at the smaller Japanese and Korean cars like Toyota, Nissan, Suzuki,
> Honda, Chevrolet, Hyundai and perhaps some of the small French and Italian
> cars: Fiat, Peugeot, Citroen, Renault.
> See if you can also introduce a collapsible section in the steering column.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Op 13-1-2013 15:50, linwoodrose@mac.com schreef:
>
>> Anyone installed the Dutch developed EZ electric power steering in their
>> Big Healey? Apparently these folks are an American agent for the company.
>> http://www.thedrivenman.com/**ez-solo.htm<http://www.thedrivenman.com/ez-solo.htm>
>>
>>   Most all of the reports from those who have installed the units are
>> positive, I am just wondering about self installation and any issues
>> encountered by those who may have installed a unit.
>>
>> Don't know that I want to go this way - just researching at this point.
>> Wasn't there an article in the Marque or Healey Magazine about an install?
>> If so, I can't seem to find it.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Lin
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/healeys/coudesluijs@**chello.nl<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6027 - datum van uitgifte:
>> 01/12/13
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Dorpsstraat 183
> 2995XG Heerjansdam
> T: 078-677 1233
> E: coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
> Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
> Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
> www.jensenholland.nl
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 08:08:11 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] parts
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I agree with this, Moss has always been excellent about processing returns
and informing customers about back orders.  My main complaint with them (in
the past) is they shipped alot of stuff that didn't fit properly or wasn't
properly made.  Recently they've done a pretty good job of fixing many of
these problems, and are now stocking a great deal more high quality
merchandise - but for my money I still order direct from a Healey
specialist like David Nock rather than direct from Moss.

On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 5:16 AM, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:

> i deal mostly with moss and i have found when i get a part i do not feel
> is correct, i talk to blaine in tech support or someone in customer
> service.  they always make it right, either returning my money or sending
> me a new part.  a reputable company stays in business that way.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 17:36:44 2013
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Alan,

You could also order from a Moss dealer, who is also a Healey specialist,
like Ed at JustBrits!! 

Cheers,

Doug


> I agree with this, Moss has always been excellent about processing 
> returns
> and informing customers about back orders.  My main complaint with 
> them (in
> the past) is they shipped alot of stuff that didn't fit properly or 
> wasn't
> properly made.  Recently they've done a pretty good job of fixing 
> many of
> these problems, and are now stocking a great deal more high quality
> merchandise - but for my money I still order direct from a Healey
> specialist like David Nock rather than direct from Moss.
> 
> On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 5:16 AM, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:
> 
> > i deal mostly with moss and i have found when i get a part i do 
> not feel
> > is correct, i talk to blaine in tech support or someone in 
> customer
> > service.  they always make it right, either returning my money or 
> sending
> > me a new part.  a reputable company stays in business that way.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 18:13:37 2013
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i never install a new exhaust hanger until i drill a 1/4 inch hole all the way through the steel and rubber and put a 1/4 bolt through and tighten the nut until it just touches the steel then peen it over so the nut will not come off.  this leaves enough room for the rubber to flex but it does not seperate. an extreme shock will be taken up by the bolt. have had them both cars for years with no problems of separation.  works for me.
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Lin,

 

I do not meet all your conditions in your query, but at least some.. J

I have installed the EZ steering in a Volvo 1800.

 

I have also drawings of a Jaguar xk150 installation.

 

What would you like to know? Maybe I could help?

 

 

Regards, Tadek

 

PS. I can also say I would not install it in my BN2 ;-)
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	<50F2916F.2000008@cosmos.net.au>
	<8CFBFB8AF480D19-1D38-17787@webmail-m075.sysops.aol.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20130113105249.020353b0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CAB3i7LL+hBPWjz3OgkXGZUrLpqQ_G6p-+u0_h1hzjcvag3UfWw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 09:21:58 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] rubber exhaust mounts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think this goes without saying.  I've noted over the years some mounts
seem to work extremely well, and others are absolutely worthless.  Some
I've had separate within minutes of mounting, with very light loads.  If I
knew who is doing these mount correctly, I'd buy it from them.

Most british cars use these same mounts including Jags.  I would have to
imagine someone around is doing them correctly.  I might ask Bassets Jag if
they are doing their own, they make alot of rubber parts for Jags.

On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 4:26 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> In one of Geoff's books he makes brief mention of exhaust mount failures on
> one of the "specials", apparently the problem was solved once the Dunlop
> engineers became involved and demonstrated just how to properly bond rubber
> to steel.
> We used to have endless failures of after market mounts but a one time I
> had some OEM mounts and took the time to put one to the test.
> The rubber of the mount tore apart, did not separate from the steel, at a
> load of well over 100 lbs. Design is not the problem however the
> manufacturing of the currently available mounts may be suspect.
>
> Michael S
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 13, 2013 at 2:42 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
> > I think the problem with the stock muffler hangers is inherent in the
> > design.
> >
> > I designed new muffler mounts for the BT7. They replace the front one
> > where the exhaust pipes meet the muffler and the back one where the pipes
> > hold up the muffler. They use the existing bolt holes and some currently
> > produced stock muffler hanger parts. However, one does have to have
> > portions of the metal hangers fabricated and a rod needs to be welded to
> > the muffler for the front hanger. They can be installed and removed
> easily.
> > Another benefit is the rear one can be removed and the muffler will
> rotate
> > downward while the front one is left in place. I have not driven the car
> > yet but I did start the car and they did not fall off and there did not
> > seem to be any undesirable vibration.
> >
> > I will send some pictures to John Sim's in the next few days.
> >
> > John, thank you for hosting all of the Healey information on your web
> site.
> >
> > John Spaur
> > San Jose, CA
> > '62 BT7
> >
> >
> > At 10:20 AM 1/13/2013 -0500, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >> Yes, everyone I know has had trouble with the rubber exhauast mounts. I
> am
> >> reasonably sure we have purchased them from most of the suppliers, even
> >> some
> >> suppliers who claim theirs are superior. If there is a source of good
> >> ones I
> >> would also like to know.
> >> Gary Hodson
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Larry Varley varley@cosmos.net.au
> >>
> > ______________________________**_________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<
> http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> > options/healeys/michaelsalter@**gmail.com<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>                          *I have BJ8 water pump kits!!*
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 20:27:04 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: <phoenix722@comcast.net>, "healeys @autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 22:22:56 -0500
References: <3D2525B1720C49288347B867D15C21F0@Mike>
	FILETIME=[726A3120:01CDF206]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car game
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I got 100% That was easy because all the cars back then were very different
from one another - not so today! I only guessed once between the '54 and '52
Mercury - and it was sort of an educated guess based on the '54 looking more
like the '55 and the '52 looking more like the '51 and I guessed correctly .

-Dave Murphy

 Dearborn Michigan
 '66 BJ8

> From: phoenix722@comcast.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 12:28:16 -0800
> Subject: [Healeys] car game
>
> 100%! Man, I must be old! But on the other hand I can't remember what
> happened yesterday.
>
>
> Mike
> BN2
> ======================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "I Erbs" <eyera3@gmail.com>
> To: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2013 10:37 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game
>
>
> > *THIS IS LOTS OF FUN, BUT IT SURE IS DIFFICULT. . ENJOY!!*
> > 50's Car Test
> > *All right you young & older whipper-snappers, lets see how you do. Be
> > honest with yourself.no cheating. See how you do.*
> > *The average score is 73%*
> > *This will really rattle the cobwebs in the 'ol brain.*
> > *
> > *
> > *I missed 8. Have fun. I did
> >
> > Car Show Game - 1950s - American Torque
> > .com<http://www.americantorque.com/game/car-show-50s/>
> > *
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 20:32:41 2013
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From: linwoodrose@mac.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 22:28:43 -0500
To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tadek,
1. Is the installation a job to be accomplished by a hobbyist mechanic or are there technical aspects/special tools that would require a professional?
2. What disassembly of the steering mechanism is required prior to installing the new components?
3. Do you have close up photos of an installation, perhaps the Jag drawings would be the closest?
4. What are the electrical requirements? How is the system wired into the Healey's wiring - fuses, relays?
5. I suppose that the grille would need to be removed?
6. Why is the system a good choice for the Volvo but not for a BN1?
7. Is the stator tube (horn, turn signals wiring) affected?
7. What are your general thoughts about the quality of the product and what do you see as its shortcomings?

That is probably a good start. Thanks so much, Tadek!

Lin
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 20:50:01 2013
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 22:45:47 -0500
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think that the system would be good for a Volvo 1800 E or ES because 
if mine is any indication, they steer very hard.  I had a 122S that 
steered easily, and a 142E that steered hard like the 1800E.  An 1800S 
may be easy like the 122S.  I've done everything to make sure that the 
ball joints and everything else work easily, but there must be something 
in the geometry to make it steer hard when the weight of the front end 
is on it.

Compared to that car, my tricarb steers very easily, even with the big 
heavy engine in the Healey.

Charlie
On 1/13/2013 10:28 PM, linwoodrose@mac.com wrote:
> Tadek,
> 1. Is the installation a job to be accomplished by a hobbyist mechanic or are there technical aspects/special tools that would require a professional?
> 2. What disassembly of the steering mechanism is required prior to installing the new components?
> 3. Do you have close up photos of an installation, perhaps the Jag drawings would be the closest?
> 4. What are the electrical requirements? How is the system wired into the Healey's wiring - fuses, relays?
> 5. I suppose that the grille would need to be removed?
> 6. Why is the system a good choice for the Volvo but not for a BN1?
> 7. Is the stator tube (horn, turn signals wiring) affected?
> 7. What are your general thoughts about the quality of the product and what do you see as its shortcomings?
>
> That is probably a good start. Thanks so much, Tadek!
>
> Lin
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 20:22:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey restoration cartoon
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I am looking for a Healey cartoon drawing I've seen before, a friend gave
me a photocopy years ago.  It features a 6 cylinder fully dismantled on jack
stands in a messy garage and the owner-restorer sitting in the driver
position, perched over the steering wheel, feet sticking through the
floorboards, feigning to drive at speed.  

When i dismantled my BN2 7.5 years
ago, i re-enacted that cartoon and would love to find that cartoon drawing
again.  It's from before internet times probably from a club newsletter.

I
hope somebody knows which cartoon I am talking about, I'll post a link to the
cartoon and my pic.

cheers, 

Bert
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 21:44:49 2013
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From: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
To: "Bert Van Brande" <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>, "List Healey"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1358137350.80069.YahooMailNeo@web125203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 23:40:46 -0500
	FILETIME=[54BCD640:01CDF211]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey restoration cartoon
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, I know it was in the AHCA Magazine, The Chatter, about 200 years ago 
;<)
I'll research it tonight.
GaryB
-----Original Message----- 
From: Bert Van Brande
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2013 11:22 PM
To: List Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Healey restoration cartoon

Hi,

I am looking for a Healey cartoon drawing I've seen before, a friend gave
me a photocopy years ago.  It features a 6 cylinder fully dismantled on jack
stands in a messy garage and the owner-restorer sitting in the driver
position, perched over the steering wheel, feet sticking through the
floorboards, feigning to drive at speed.

When i dismantled my BN2 7.5 years
ago, i re-enacted that cartoon and would love to find that cartoon drawing
again.  It's from before internet times probably from a club newsletter.

I
hope somebody knows which cartoon I am talking about, I'll post a link to 
the
cartoon and my pic.

cheers,

Bert
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 08:57:16 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
References: <31ABE286-B8D6-4C34-9380-5DD35DBF43D8@mac.com>
	<50F2E66C.8050404@chello.nl>
	<CAFBXTkLqvfiZvrrr1gGYQ9tn=GZ9S7=HFQx91OxAQNBT+9ecRQ@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Alan,

I am not 100% sure but AFAIK the Opel Corsa power steering is pure 
electric with its own ECU. It goes without saying that anything 
(electro) hydraulic would be useless in a sensible power steering 
conversion. I have seen the EZ power steering conversions, I vaguely 
know the owner of the firm, and I have driven a TR6 equipped with 
one.Very comfortable at parking speeds but not much feel at speed, a bit 
like an American barge. Ideal if you get a bit older (arthritis etc) or 
have some physical issues. Our youngsters would love it as well as even 
the smallest cars have PS nowadays. My children are even complaining 
about the heavy steering in my Jensen Healey, which in my opinion has 
very acceptable steering, even with a smaller steering wheel.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 14-1-2013 0:53, Alan Seigrist schreef:
> Hi Kees -
>
> Opel/Vauxhall power steering units you are talking about are 
> electro-hydraulic pumps.  They are only good to retrofit to cars that 
> had older mechanical style hydraulic pumps (as what I've fitted to my 
> Jag Mk IX), and a steering box or rack that is hydraulically assisted. 
>  What Lin is talking about is the modern pure electrical motor assist 
> - it's a big job because you aren't just redoing a bit of hydraulic 
> plumbing, you are also dealing with the shaft gearing and mounts, etc. 
>  This type of conversion should only be done as a complete kit from 
> someone else who's engineered the system.
>
> Strangely enough, I think the only guy in the world that I know that 
> does this is in your neck of the woods:
>
> http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/car/7/5/Austin-Healey.html
>
> Best regards,
>
> Alan
>
> On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 12:53 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl 
>
>     If you are intending to install the power steering yourself it
>     might be of interest to investigate if you can convert an existing
>     system yourself. Apparently you need a completely self sustaining
>     system that does not require the main overall control unit in the car.
>     I have heard that the power steering from an Opel/vauxhall Corsa
>     is often used by EZ and the likes, but there should be others. I
>     presume one could look at the smaller Japanese and Korean cars
>     like Toyota, Nissan, Suzuki, Honda, Chevrolet, Hyundai and perhaps
>     some of the small French and Italian cars: Fiat, Peugeot, Citroen,
>     Renault.
>     See if you can also introduce a collapsible section in the
>     steering column.
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>     NL
>
>     Op 13-1-2013 15:50, linwoodrose@mac.com
>
>         Anyone installed the Dutch developed EZ electric power
>         steering in their Big Healey? Apparently these folks are an
>         American agent for the company.
>         http://www.thedrivenman.com/ez-solo.htm
>
>           Most all of the reports from those who have installed the
>         units are positive, I am just wondering about self
>         installation and any issues encountered by those who may have
>         installed a unit.
>
>         Don't know that I want to go this way - just researching at
>         this point. Wasn't there an article in the Marque or Healey
>         Magazine about an install? If so, I can't seem to find it.
>
>         Thanks,
>
>         Lin
>
>         Sent from my iPad
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
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>
>
>         -----
>         Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>         Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>         Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6027 - datum van
>         uitgifte: 01/12/13
>
>
>
>
>     -- 
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>     Dorpsstraat 183
>     2995XG Heerjansdam
>     T: 078-677 1233
>
>     Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
>     Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
>     www.jensenholland.nl <http://www.jensenholland.nl>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6030 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 01/13/13
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 02:00:21 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 16:56:19 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Kees -

Kids these days!  Their idea of "modding" their rice rockets means putting
a fancy air filter on the car, a new "chip" and fart-can exhaust.  No need
to understand the first thing about how anything actually works.

Cheers!

Alan

On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 3:57 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

>  Alan,
>
> I am not 100% sure but AFAIK the Opel Corsa power steering is pure
> electric with its own ECU. It goes without saying that anything (electro)
> hydraulic would be useless in a sensible power steering conversion. I have
> seen the EZ power steering conversions, I vaguely know the owner of the
> firm, and I have driven a TR6 equipped with one.Very comfortable at parking
> speeds but not much feel at speed, a bit like an American barge. Ideal if
> you get a bit older (arthritis etc) or have some physical issues. Our
> youngsters would love it as well as even the smallest cars have PS
> nowadays. My children are even complaining about the heavy steering in my
> Jensen Healey, which in my opinion has very acceptable steering, even with
> a smaller steering wheel.
> Cheers,
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 14-1-2013 0:53, Alan Seigrist schreef:
>
> Hi Kees -
>
>  Opel/Vauxhall power steering units you are talking about are
> electro-hydraulic pumps.  They are only good to retrofit to cars that had
> older mechanical style hydraulic pumps (as what I've fitted to my Jag Mk
> IX), and a steering box or rack that is hydraulically assisted.  What Lin
> is talking about is the modern pure electrical motor assist - it's a big
> job because you aren't just redoing a bit of hydraulic plumbing, you are
> also dealing with the shaft gearing and mounts, etc.  This type of
> conversion should only be done as a complete kit from someone else who's
> engineered the system.
>
>  Strangely enough, I think the only guy in the world that I know that
> does this is in your neck of the woods:
>
>  http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/car/7/5/Austin-Healey.html
>
>  Best regards,
>
>  Alan
>
> On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 12:53 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> If you are intending to install the power steering yourself it might be
>> of interest to investigate if you can convert an existing system yourself.
>> Apparently you need a completely self sustaining system that does not
>> require the main overall control unit in the car.
>> I have heard that the power steering from an Opel/vauxhall Corsa is often
>> used by EZ and the likes, but there should be others. I presume one could
>> look at the smaller Japanese and Korean cars like Toyota, Nissan, Suzuki,
>> Honda, Chevrolet, Hyundai and perhaps some of the small French and Italian
>> cars: Fiat, Peugeot, Citroen, Renault.
>> See if you can also introduce a collapsible section in the steering
>> column.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>> Op 13-1-2013 15:50, linwoodrose@mac.com schreef:
>>
>>>  Anyone installed the Dutch developed EZ electric power steering in
>>> their Big Healey? Apparently these folks are an American agent for the
>>> company.
>>> http://www.thedrivenman.com/ez-solo.htm
>>>
>>>   Most all of the reports from those who have installed the units are
>>> positive, I am just wondering about self installation and any issues
>>> encountered by those who may have installed a unit.
>>>
>>> Don't know that I want to go this way - just researching at this point.
>>> Wasn't there an article in the Marque or Healey Magazine about an install?
>>> If so, I can't seem to find it.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Lin
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6027 - datum van uitgifte:
>>> 01/12/13
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> Dorpsstraat 183
>> 2995XG Heerjansdam
>> T: 078-677 1233
>> E: coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>
>> Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
>> Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
>> www.jensenholland.nl
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
>>
>>
>  Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6030 - datum van uitgifte:
> 01/13/13
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 03:25:35 2013
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From: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Date: 14 Jan 2013 11:20:53 +0100
Cc: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Josef,
 
1) true, our company is a competitor to Limora
2) Besides from being owner of Brits 'n' Pieces I'm a private person and Healey enthusiast (driving a 3000 privately), having established my business from an enthusiast for enthusiasts
3) I've already stated in my 1st mail, that I can proof it, so your wagging finger is unnecessary
4) I've always been very quiet when it came across competitors. If people on this list think, I should be quiet on this, they can tell me and I keep my mouth shut in future
 
Eric
Germany

 


Eric,
its seems your company is a competitor to Limora. So please be quiet on these things or you can proof what you say.
 
 
Josef Eckert

Germany
 Derek,SC Parts (in GB) have been taken over by Limora (in Germany) some years ago. I have not purchased from either personally, but what I've heard from other people (in Germany and UK) is exactly what you're experiencing. They've been offering parts (which I can proof have never existed) for years now (and still do), pretending to have these parts in stock and collecting funds for these parts. The only department not functioning properly is the one in charge of reimbursements. I have spoken to people struggling more than half a year for their reimbursement. Again, no personal experience, but multiple experiences from others.Good luck!EricAnybody else having problems with SC? They appear to be totallyre-organising their distribution system, I ordered 3 Webers that were 'instock' about 2 weeks ago and they still have not been dispatched from awarehouse in Germany! I can't seem to get any sensible answers or anyaction., other than 'they will be dispatched the middle of next week,'....which was the same answer as last week.I don't plan on using them again.Derek
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 03:41:11 2013
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Well, the missing part arrived today. It doesn't fit!
Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 04:19:39 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 06:15:41 -0500
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
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	<BLU166-ds8D1D407764D193DA648E3B32E0@phx.gbl>
Cc: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey restoration cartoon
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bert,

There's the Great Expectations cartoon on the front cover of the 
October/November 1980 issue of Chatter (AHCA's magazine).  It is of a 
fellow "driving" his 100 around some pylons with the windshield folded 
down, and his hair and scarf blowing straight back.  The car is sitting 
on wooden blocks and there's a fan sitting on the bonnet providing the 
wind in his face.

This was the first issue of Chatter I received - kinda sums up my Healey 
ownership. :)

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 01/13/2013 11:40 PM, Gary R. Brierton wrote:
> Well, I know it was in the AHCA Magazine, The Chatter, about 200 years
> ago ;<)
> I'll research it tonight.
> GaryB
> -----Original Message----- From: Bert Van Brande
> Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2013 11:22 PM
> To: List Healey
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey restoration cartoon
>
> Hi,
>
> I am looking for a Healey cartoon drawing I've seen before, a friend gave
> me a photocopy years ago.  It features a 6 cylinder fully dismantled on
> jack
> stands in a messy garage and the owner-restorer sitting in the driver
> position, perched over the steering wheel, feet sticking through the
> floorboards, feigning to drive at speed.
>
> When i dismantled my BN2 7.5 years
> ago, i re-enacted that cartoon and would love to find that cartoon drawing
> again.  It's from before internet times probably from a club newsletter.
>
> I
> hope somebody knows which cartoon I am talking about, I'll post a link
> to the
> cartoon and my pic.
>
> cheers,
>
> Bert
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 05:10:46 2013
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From: Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey restoration cartoon
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I have a copy of it on my Facebook page in the album Healey Cartoons and have
attached a copy to Bert,


Jim Werner
Louisville, KY



-----Original Message-----
From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jan 13, 2013 11:23 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Healey restoration cartoon


Hi,

I am looking for a Healey cartoon drawing I've seen before, a friend gave
me a photocopy years ago.  It features a 6 cylinder fully dismantled on jack
stands in a messy garage and the owner-restorer sitting in the driver
position, perched over the steering wheel, feet sticking through the
floorboards, feigning to drive at speed.

When i dismantled my BN2 7.5 years
ago, i re-enacted that cartoon and would love to find that cartoon drawing
again.  It's from before internet times probably from a club newsletter.

I
hope somebody knows which cartoon I am talking about, I'll post a link to the
cartoon and my pic.

cheers,

Bert
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwhlyadv@aol.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of great ex.jpg]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 05:14:38 2013
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From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
To: <linwoodrose@mac.com>
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	<B624A181-C68D-435B-B2FA-F54A4A60FCD5@mac.com>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Lin,

The answers are inline, some for Volvo, some as I would imagine it for
Healey. I also introduced another question,  I thought you might ask. :-)

Here it goes:

1. Is the installation a job to be accomplished by a hobbyist mechanic or
are there technical aspects/special tools that would require a professional?
Volvo: The column shaft is divided in 2 parts, separated by a rubber
doughnut. Only the upper part is affected.  It does require good few hours
of work, and you have to be relatively skilled. No special tools necessary,
fits fairly well and ads extra 20lb to your car.
Healey: I am pretty sure you have to take out the entire steering column,
cut it to fit the EPS and than fi it back in. I would also imagine you have
to fit it back in 2 sections - first under the hood, then under the dash.
Not a 1 day job, definitely.


2. What disassembly of the steering mechanism is required prior to
installing the new components?
- described above

3. Do you have close up photos of an installation, perhaps the Jag drawings
would be the closest?
- attached

4. What are the electrical requirements? How is the system wired into the
Healey's wiring - fuses, relays?
3 connections:
- connect the EPS with 50amp fuse (and appropriate cable) to the battery or
starter. 
- connect the EPS controller to ignition switched output (I would just add
another connection to the fuse box).
- reroute stator tube wring.

5. I suppose that the grille would need to be removed?
Oh YES... and more - everything to take out the steering column...

6. Why is the system a good choice for the Volvo but not for a BN1?
Well, the Volvo is a fairly heavy, coupe car. Parking it requires a bit of
sweating...
Healey is lighter and so is the steering..
Also, this is a pretty permanent change, unless you have a spare steering
column. In a Volvo the upper section of the steering costs $60 on ebay..
The change on the Healey would also be much more visible, I would imagine.

7. Is the stator tube (horn, turn signals wiring) affected?
YES. EZ devised a set of sliding contacts (photo attached). A similar idea
is used on a Jaguar XK150.

8. What are your general thoughts about the quality of the product and what
do you see as its shortcomings?
I have mixed feelings.
 The EZ steering system is regulated  by a knob - in  a normal car it's
progressive, dependent on car speed. It's relatively heavy (weight wise), at
least in the Volvo.
The EPS itself is a quality Japanese product, I would not worry there.
It does it's job though and if you really do not care about originality,
then it's an interesting choice..
I would also imagine it introduces more stress to the ball joints which are
not designed for power steering.

9. What is the solution based on?
The systems I have seen are all based on NSK (Japanese) solution.
The Volvo system is based on one from Opel Corsa D,
The Jaguar one is more interesting and it's lighter - it's based on MGF.
It's better suited for solid columns like Jaguar XK or a Healey.
All these systems comprise of:
- the engine that helps the steering to move (the main assembly)
- ECU unit that requires inputs form the engine speed and engine revs.
- in a custom design we are talking about the two inputs are generated  by
pulse generators, one is also controlled in adition by the knob.

The Jaguar solution by a fellow in UK is more ingenious - he actually build
in progressiveness, taking impulses from his angle drive. I liked it.

Let me know if you need more info - I did study this subject a bit.


Tadek


That is probably a good start. Thanks so much, Tadek!

Lin

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of jaguar xk150 c.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of jaguar xk150 a.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of jaguar xk150 b.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Jaguar XK150 EPAS.pdf]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Volvo.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/bmp which had a name of sliding spring loaded contacts.bmp]
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 05:26:34 2013
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From: linwoodrose@mac.com
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 07:22:41 -0500
To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you Tadek! I will study the Jag paper a bit more. The information you provided was very helpful. Does the control head (trafficator) continue to function as designed? 
Lin

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 14, 2013, at 6:59 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl> wrote:

> Lin,
> 
> The answers are inline, some for Volvo, some as I would imagine it for
> Healey. I also introduced another question,  I thought you might ask. :-)
> 
> Here it goes:
> 
> 1. Is the installation a job to be accomplished by a hobbyist mechanic or
> are there technical aspects/special tools that would require a professional?
> Volvo: The column shaft is divided in 2 parts, separated by a rubber
> doughnut. Only the upper part is affected.  It does require good few hours
> of work, and you have to be relatively skilled. No special tools necessary,
> fits fairly well and ads extra 20lb to your car.
> Healey: I am pretty sure you have to take out the entire steering column,
> cut it to fit the EPS and than fi it back in. I would also imagine you have
> to fit it back in 2 sections - first under the hood, then under the dash.
> Not a 1 day job, definitely.
> 
> 
> 2. What disassembly of the steering mechanism is required prior to
> installing the new components?
> - described above
> 
> 3. Do you have close up photos of an installation, perhaps the Jag drawings
> would be the closest?
> - attached
> 
> 4. What are the electrical requirements? How is the system wired into the
> Healey's wiring - fuses, relays?
> 3 connections:
> - connect the EPS with 50amp fuse (and appropriate cable) to the battery or
> starter. 
> - connect the EPS controller to ignition switched output (I would just add
> another connection to the fuse box).
> - reroute stator tube wring.
> 
> 5. I suppose that the grille would need to be removed?
> Oh YES... and more - everything to take out the steering column...
> 
> 6. Why is the system a good choice for the Volvo but not for a BN1?
> Well, the Volvo is a fairly heavy, coupe car. Parking it requires a bit of
> sweating...
> Healey is lighter and so is the steering..
> Also, this is a pretty permanent change, unless you have a spare steering
> column. In a Volvo the upper section of the steering costs $60 on ebay..
> The change on the Healey would also be much more visible, I would imagine.
> 
> 7. Is the stator tube (horn, turn signals wiring) affected?
> YES. EZ devised a set of sliding contacts (photo attached). A similar idea
> is used on a Jaguar XK150.
> 
> 8. What are your general thoughts about the quality of the product and what
> do you see as its shortcomings?
> I have mixed feelings.
> The EZ steering system is regulated  by a knob - in  a normal car it's
> progressive, dependent on car speed. It's relatively heavy (weight wise), at
> least in the Volvo.
> The EPS itself is a quality Japanese product, I would not worry there.
> It does it's job though and if you really do not care about originality,
> then it's an interesting choice..
> I would also imagine it introduces more stress to the ball joints which are
> not designed for power steering.
> 
> 9. What is the solution based on?
> The systems I have seen are all based on NSK (Japanese) solution.
> The Volvo system is based on one from Opel Corsa D,
> The Jaguar one is more interesting and it's lighter - it's based on MGF.
> It's better suited for solid columns like Jaguar XK or a Healey.
> All these systems comprise of:
> - the engine that helps the steering to move (the main assembly)
> - ECU unit that requires inputs form the engine speed and engine revs.
> - in a custom design we are talking about the two inputs are generated  by
> pulse generators, one is also controlled in adition by the knob.
> 
> The Jaguar solution by a fellow in UK is more ingenious - he actually build
> in progressiveness, taking impulses from his angle drive. I liked it.
> 
> Let me know if you need more info - I did study this subject a bit.
> 
> 
> Tadek
> 
> 
> That is probably a good start. Thanks so much, Tadek!
> 
> Lin
> <jaguar xk150 c.jpg>
> <jaguar xk150 a.jpg>
> <jaguar xk150 b.jpg>
> <Jaguar XK150 EPAS.pdf>
> <Volvo.jpg>
> <sliding spring loaded contacts.bmp>
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 05:38:42 2013
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To: <linwoodrose@mac.com>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 13:34:32 +0100
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Content-Language: en-us
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Most welcome :-)

I am not sure, but I believe EZ steering would not make it otherwise - So, I
am 95% sure the trafficator functions normally..


Tadek

-----Original Message-----
From: linwoodrose@mac.com [mailto:linwoodrose@mac.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 1:23 PM
To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EZ electric power steering

Thank you Tadek! I will study the Jag paper a bit more. The information you
provided was very helpful. Does the control head (trafficator) continue to
function as designed? 
Lin

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 14, 2013, at 6:59 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz
<Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl> wrote:

> Lin,
> 
> The answers are inline, some for Volvo, some as I would imagine it for 
> Healey. I also introduced another question,  I thought you might ask. 
> :-)
> 
> Here it goes:
> 
> 1. Is the installation a job to be accomplished by a hobbyist mechanic 
> or are there technical aspects/special tools that would require a
professional?
> Volvo: The column shaft is divided in 2 parts, separated by a rubber 
> doughnut. Only the upper part is affected.  It does require good few 
> hours of work, and you have to be relatively skilled. No special tools 
> necessary, fits fairly well and ads extra 20lb to your car.
> Healey: I am pretty sure you have to take out the entire steering 
> column, cut it to fit the EPS and than fi it back in. I would also 
> imagine you have to fit it back in 2 sections - first under the hood, then
under the dash.
> Not a 1 day job, definitely.
> 
> 
> 2. What disassembly of the steering mechanism is required prior to 
> installing the new components?
> - described above
> 
> 3. Do you have close up photos of an installation, perhaps the Jag 
> drawings would be the closest?
> - attached
> 
> 4. What are the electrical requirements? How is the system wired into 
> the Healey's wiring - fuses, relays?
> 3 connections:
> - connect the EPS with 50amp fuse (and appropriate cable) to the 
> battery or starter.
> - connect the EPS controller to ignition switched output (I would just 
> add another connection to the fuse box).
> - reroute stator tube wring.
> 
> 5. I suppose that the grille would need to be removed?
> Oh YES... and more - everything to take out the steering column...
> 
> 6. Why is the system a good choice for the Volvo but not for a BN1?
> Well, the Volvo is a fairly heavy, coupe car. Parking it requires a 
> bit of sweating...
> Healey is lighter and so is the steering..
> Also, this is a pretty permanent change, unless you have a spare 
> steering column. In a Volvo the upper section of the steering costs $60 on
ebay..
> The change on the Healey would also be much more visible, I would imagine.
> 
> 7. Is the stator tube (horn, turn signals wiring) affected?
> YES. EZ devised a set of sliding contacts (photo attached). A similar 
> idea is used on a Jaguar XK150.
> 
> 8. What are your general thoughts about the quality of the product and 
> what do you see as its shortcomings?
> I have mixed feelings.
> The EZ steering system is regulated  by a knob - in  a normal car it's 
> progressive, dependent on car speed. It's relatively heavy (weight 
> wise), at least in the Volvo.
> The EPS itself is a quality Japanese product, I would not worry there.
> It does it's job though and if you really do not care about 
> originality, then it's an interesting choice..
> I would also imagine it introduces more stress to the ball joints 
> which are not designed for power steering.
> 
> 9. What is the solution based on?
> The systems I have seen are all based on NSK (Japanese) solution.
> The Volvo system is based on one from Opel Corsa D, The Jaguar one is 
> more interesting and it's lighter - it's based on MGF.
> It's better suited for solid columns like Jaguar XK or a Healey.
> All these systems comprise of:
> - the engine that helps the steering to move (the main assembly)
> - ECU unit that requires inputs form the engine speed and engine revs.
> - in a custom design we are talking about the two inputs are generated  
> by pulse generators, one is also controlled in adition by the knob.
> 
> The Jaguar solution by a fellow in UK is more ingenious - he actually 
> build in progressiveness, taking impulses from his angle drive. I liked
it.
> 
> Let me know if you need more info - I did study this subject a bit.
> 
> 
> Tadek
> 
> 
> That is probably a good start. Thanks so much, Tadek!
> 
> Lin
> <jaguar xk150 c.jpg>
> <jaguar xk150 a.jpg>
> <jaguar xk150 b.jpg>
> <Jaguar XK150 EPAS.pdf>
> <Volvo.jpg>
> <sliding spring loaded contacts.bmp>
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 07:03:37 2013
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	<50f3e004.a94e420a.4d04.ffffb725SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 05:59:32 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

LOL

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
On Jan 14, 2013 2:37 AM, "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:

> Well, the missing part arrived today. It doesn't fit!
> Simon
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From: "Richard J. Hockert" <rjhco@att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <EADMIN-925158704-25841097-2013.01.14-10.05.37--rjh#hockertlaw.us@lists.n-email1.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 09:49:19 -0600
Thread-Index: AQGAdO2YAt9m7xdrcVJJusai9bR8aZjj8rSg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] FW: 1967 Austin-Healey 3000 MKIII from The Collins
 Collection at Kissimmee - Where The Cars Are
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

From: Mecum Infonet [mailto:info@mecumauction.com]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 9:06 AM
To: Jim Hockert
Subject: 1967 Austin-Healey 3000 MKIII from The Collins Collection at
Kissimmee - Where The Cars Are



To view an online version of this email, click
<http://tracking.mecum.com/t/25841097/925158704/55314379/0/?b44ed14b=MTg3NGM3
YTMtYmIwMC00ZmQyLTgzNjQtZDNhNzY5ODhiZTg0&x=a09c782b> here.



 <http://tracking.mecum.com/t/25841097/925158704/55210682/0/?c4e129f6=RkwwMTE
yX1MxNTM%3d&x=460fd2a7> Kissimmee 2013


 <http://tracking.mecum.com/t/25841097/925158704/55314380/0/?c4e129f6=RkwwMTE
yX1MxNTM%3d&x=ab7657c3> Mecum Auction: Muscle Cars & More



1967 Austin-Healey 3000 MKIII Convertible - One Owner Car


Presented as Lot S153
<http://tracking.mecum.com/t/25841097/925158704/55314380/0/?c4e129f6=RkwwMTEy
X1MxNTM%3d&x=ab7657c3> , this Austin-Healey is scheduled to cross the block at
3:35PM on Saturday, January 27.


 <http://tracking.mecum.com/t/25841097/925158704/55210685/0/?c4e129f6=RkwwMTE
yX1MxNTM%3d&x=fd28e789>





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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 09:54:01 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 08:49:33 -0800 (PST)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>, Bert Van Brande
	<bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey restoration cartoon
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Good Day Bert;  I think what you are looking for can be found on the Ancaster
British Car Flea Market flyer for this year.  Check it out at
http://www.ancasterbritish.ca/Flyer.pdf  on the ABC-FM website
at http://www.ancasterbritish.ca
 
When I made the flyer last year I looked all over but could not find the
artist's name.  I had used it for a tech project back in 1992 and tried to
find the name at that time also.  If this is the cartoon you are searching for
and do find out who drew it, please let me know.  It is a great drawing and
the person who drew it should be recognized. 

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Sun, 1/13/13, Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey restoration cartoon
To: "List Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Received: Sunday, January 13, 2013, 11:22 PM

Hi,

I am looking for a Healey cartoon drawing I've seen before, a friend gave me a
photocopy years ago.  It features a 6 cylinder fully dismantled on jack stands
in a messy garage and the owner-restorer sitting in the driver position,
perched over the steering wheel, feet sticking through the floorboards,
feigning to drive at speed. 

When i dismantled my BN2 7.5 years ago, i re-enacted that cartoon and would
love to find that cartoon drawing again.  It's from before internet times
probably from a club newsletter.

I hope somebody knows which cartoon I am talking about, I'll post a link to
the cartoon and my pic.

cheers,   Bert

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of ABC-FM 2013 Flyer-Colour.pdf]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of RESTORATION DREAMING.01B.JPG]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 12:48:26 2013
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To: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 19:44:26 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?healey_cartoon?=
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for at least 20 years or so i have had the "Shoe" cartoon in my garage about the healey.  it is the one where the old mechanic takes the "professor" out to the yard to show the totally wrecked, upside down car and tells the professor it is a 68 healey and when the professor asks how can you tell, the old mechanic states "by the classic lines".   i love it.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 13:35:05 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 15:31:05 -0500
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: caahc@yahoogroups.com, Bob Tourville <tourv@erols.com>,  Doug Merch
	<douglas.merch@navy.mil>, bcvaughan@juno.com,  Jeb McCarthy
	<mccarthykjeb@md.metrocast.net>, Tom Surles <pvaurochs@gmail.com>, 
	Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Watch this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=LuDN2bCIyus&feature=related

Best--Michael
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 13:53:09 2013
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References: <CAPTa0B479Z=Cb9e2=EHmTP9yATL_baUT1y0AsjzX7KrRyOpHWw@mail.gmail.com>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 12:48:32 -0800
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't know what's more amazing,,,, the driving or the fact that that many
streets in San Francisco were blocked off? :)

I have done some street jumping in the City before, but never got that much
air!! wow!!

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 12:31 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>wrote:

> Watch this:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=LuDN2bCIyus&feature=related
>
> Best--Michael
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 14:53:15 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 13:48:57 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "caahc@yahoogroups.com"
	<caahc@yahoogroups.com>, Bob Tourville <tourv@erols.com>, Doug Merch
	<douglas.merch@navy.mil>, "bcvaughan@juno.com" <bcvaughan@juno.com>,
	Jeb McCarthy <mccarthykjeb@md.metrocast.net>, Tom Surles
	<pvaurochs@gmail.com>, Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This guy should take a lesson:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=mvyIExP14j4

 
Rick
"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From: Michael
Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: caahc@yahoogroups.com; Bob Tourville
<tourv@erols.com>; Doug Merch <douglas.merch@navy.mil>; bcvaughan@juno.com;
Jeb McCarthy <mccarthykjeb@md.metrocast.net>; Tom Surles
<pvaurochs@gmail.com>; Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday,
January 14, 2013 3:31 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
 
Watch
this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=LuDN2bCIyus&feature=related
Best--Michael
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 14:57:08 2013
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From: Richard Korn <cynicbass@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 21:57:21 +0000
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Cc: "bcvaughan@juno.com" <bcvaughan@juno.com>,
	Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	"caahc@yahoogroups.com" <caahc@yahoogroups.com>,
	Tom Surles <pvaurochs@gmail.com>, Doug Merch <douglas.merch@navy.mil>,
	Bob Tourville <tourv@erols.com>,
	JebMcCarthy <mccarthykjeb@md.metrocast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Lol

Sent from Ricky's iPad

On Jan 14, 2013, at 21:48, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> This guy should take a lesson:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=mvyIExP14j4
>
>
> Rick
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
> http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Michael
> Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> To: caahc@yahoogroups.com; Bob Tourville
> <tourv@erols.com>; Doug Merch <douglas.merch@navy.mil>; bcvaughan@juno.com;
> Jeb McCarthy <mccarthykjeb@md.metrocast.net>; Tom Surles
> <pvaurochs@gmail.com>; Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday,
> January 14, 2013 3:31 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
>
> Watch
> this:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=LuDN2bCIyus&feature=related
> Best--Michael
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 15:36:27 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 22:32:04 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Tom Felts
  <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: 'Forum Healeys' <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Bob, Tom,

Surely this is the classic "chicken and the egg".  We want
the best quality parts but we don't want to pay very much, and how do you tell
what the quality is until you have the parts in your hand/tried them for fit,
etc.  If a supplier finds that a part isn't selling, he will drop the price or
offer free shipping or other inducement to to get rid of them, but I have to
say that if I come across a REALLY cheap part my immediate reaction is: why?
We all buy very much on trust - witness the current SC correspondence here -
as all the suppliers, especially in North America, are usually a long distance
away, and I have to say that even though I've just started on the restoration
of my BJ8, the quality of parts available compared to a couple of other cars I
happen to be involved with is very impressive indeed and there is rarely a
vast difference in price.  Something to do with the value of our cars I
suppose.  Just my two penn'orth.

Regards, Lodge

--- On Sun, 13/1/13, Tom
Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> From: Tom Felts
<tomfelts@windstream.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
> Cc: "'Forum Healeys'"
<Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, 13 January, 2013, 2:22
> I didn't
know it was customary to
> even ask that question.  And, If I have a concern
about
> whether a part is too costly, I will check several other
>
sources--not ask if he has a cheaper version.  When I
> go to what I believe
to be a quality supplier I believe they
> will sell me quality parts---not
cheap stuff.  If they
> want to play that game, then they should make an
effort to
> give us a choice---a quality part and a not so quality
> part.  Of
course, doubt if many can afford to do
> that.  
> 
> Still can't imagine any
quality supplier consciously
> stocking inferior parts because he "believes"
that is what
> most want.
> 
> What kicked off this discussion was the
assertion that we
> get cheap parts because that is what we want, a thought I
> cannot accept.  We all want the best price we can get
> for a quality part,
so shop around---don't settle for
> cheap.
> 
> tom
> 
> 
> ---- Bob Spidell
<bspidell@comcast.net>
> wrote: 
> 
> =============
> Gotta ask, Tom, when you
order parts do you always tell the
> vendor you want the highest quality parts
possible, and 
> price is of no concern?
> 
> Or, do you ask the price, and
grumble a bit if you think
> it's 'out of line?'
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> -- 
>
*******************************************************************
> Bob
Spidell           San
> Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
> 
>
*******************************************************************
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
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> 
>
Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 15:54:04 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 17:48:46 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My wife asked if I was deaf as the video ended. Guess I had the volume up a
bit to hear the turbo. My answer to her was, WHAT!!!!!
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 00:21:28 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
Organization: Hemma
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Felt sealing strips
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi
Have installed new main bearings. The two in the middle took a couple of 
minutes, but the front and rear took the best part of the day. The felt 
sealing strips were very difficult, and at some stage I almost gave up, 
felt tempted to reuse my old ones. The front seems OK now, but the rear 
still have some material from the strip squeezed between the block and 
the cap. Will have to redo that tomorrow.
Does anyone have any good tips on how to do this? I seem to remember 
that these strips originally were made of cork, but even the workshop 
manual says to install new cork or felt strips.

Per in Sweden
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 16:27:04 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 23:22:23 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "caahc@yahoogroups.com"
	<caahc@yahoogroups.com>, Bob Tourville <tourv@erols.com>, Doug Merch
	<douglas.merch@navy.mil>, "bcvaughan@juno.com" <bcvaughan@juno.com>,
	Jeb McCarthy <mccarthykjeb@md.metrocast.net>, Tom Surles
	<pvaurochs@gmail.com>, Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ah, the disadvantage of rear-wheel drive!

--- On Mon, 14/1/13, HealeyRick
<healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
> To: "Michael Oritt"
<michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "caahc@yahoogroups.com" <caahc@yahoogroups.com>,
"Bob Tourville" <tourv@erols.com>, "Doug Merch" <douglas.merch@navy.mil>,
"bcvaughan@juno.com" <bcvaughan@juno.com>, "Jeb McCarthy"
<mccarthykjeb@md.metrocast.net>, "Tom Surles" <pvaurochs@gmail.com>, "Austin
Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, 14 January, 2013, 21:48
>
This guy should take a lesson:
>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=mvyIExP14j4
> 
>  
>
Rick
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
>
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> 
> 
> ________________________________
>  From:
Michael
> Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> To: caahc@yahoogroups.com;
> Bob
Tourville
> <tourv@erols.com>;
> Doug Merch <douglas.merch@navy.mil>;
>
bcvaughan@juno.com;
> Jeb McCarthy <mccarthykjeb@md.metrocast.net>;
> Tom
Surles
> <pvaurochs@gmail.com>;
> Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> 
>
Sent: Monday,
> January 14, 2013 3:31 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Quite amazing
driving
>  
> Watch
> this:
> 
>
http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=LuDN2bCIyus&feature=related
>
Best--Michael
> _______________________________________________
> Support
Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
>
Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 16:32:47 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 18:28:44 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: 'Forum Healeys' <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That was my point I guess-----I tend to think, naively maybe, that the the
suppliers that most of us use and trust, will do the best they can to get us
quality parts, and won't consciously sell us "cheap" parts.  I don't want to
have to wait till I get the part to tell if it is "cheap".  It is a matter of
trust--and, if trust cannot be gained, people will stop buying from that
vendor and he will go out of business.

I understand that all of us want to get a deal or bargain, just not "cheap"
parts.

So---if us asking for bargain prices causes the supplier to compromise on
quality, we have done a disservice to outselves---shot ourselves in the foot.
And---"asking" doesn't make it so unless no products are sold at the original
asking price.

Anyway---where is this thread going? :):)

tom


---- David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

=============
Hello Bob, Tom,

Surely this is the classic "chicken and the egg".  We want the best quality
parts but we don't want to pay very much, and how do you tell what the quality
is until you have the parts in your hand/tried them for fit, etc.  If a
supplier finds that a part isn't selling, he will drop the price or offer free
shipping or other inducement to to get rid of them, but I have to say that if
I come across a REALLY cheap part my immediate reaction is: why?  We all buy
very much on trust - witness the current SC correspondence here - as all the
suppliers, especially in North America, are usually a long distance away, and
I have to say that even though I've just started on the restoration of my BJ8,
the quality of parts available compared to a couple of other cars I happen to
be involved with is very impressive indeed and there is rarely a vast
difference in price.  Something to do with the value of our cars I suppose.
Just my two penn'orth.

Regards, Lodge

--- On Sun, 13/1/13, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
> To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
> Cc: "'Forum Healeys'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, 13 January, 2013, 2:22
> I didn't know it was customary to
> even ask that question.B  And, If I have a concern about
> whether a part is too costly, I will check several other
> sources--not ask if he has a cheaper version.B  When I
> go to what I believe to be a quality supplier I believe they
> will sell me quality parts---not cheap stuff.B  If they
> want to play that game, then they should make an effort to
> give us a choice---a quality part and a not so quality
> part.B  Of course, doubt if many can afford to do
> that.B 
>
> Still can't imagine any quality supplier consciously
> stocking inferior parts because he "believes" that is what
> most want.
>
> What kicked off this discussion was the assertion that we
> get cheap parts because that is what we want, a thought I
> cannot accept.B  We all want the best price we can get
> for a quality part, so shop around---don't settle for
> cheap.
>
> tom
>
>
> ---- Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> =============
> Gotta ask, Tom, when you order parts do you always tell the
> vendor you want the highest quality parts possible, and
> price is of no concern?
>
> Or, do you ask the price, and grumble a bit if you think
> it's 'out of line?'
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob SpidellB  B  B  B  B B B San
> Jose, CAB  B  B  B  B  B  bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 16:36:51 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 18:31:50 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeyguy@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm almost embarrased to ask this, but is this race a spoof?  Empty SF?  No people?  No cars?

OK--go ahead-----make me feel silly:)

tom

---- healeyguy@aol.com wrote: 

=============
My wife asked if I was deaf as the video ended. Guess I had the volume up a
bit to hear the turbo. My answer to her was, WHAT!!!!!
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt michael.oritt@gmail.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 15:39:40 -0800
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <8CFC0C072146BA6-328-2404C@webmail-m136.sysops.aol.com>
	<20130114183151.TKJTT.14158.root@pamxwww09-z01>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Probably very earlier in the morning. See:

http://mvpperformance.wordpress.com/tag/ford-fiesta/

John

At 06:31 PM 1/14/2013 -0500, Tom Felts wrote:
>I'm almost embarrased to ask this, but is this race a spoof?  Empty 
>SF?  No people?  No cars?
>
>OK--go ahead-----make me feel silly:)
>
>tom
>
>---- healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
>
>=============
>My wife asked if I was deaf as the video ended. Guess I had the volume up a
>bit to hear the turbo. My answer to her was, WHAT!!!!!
>Aloha
>Perry
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Oritt michael.oritt@gmail.com
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 16:46:34 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 15:42:41 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <8CFC0C072146BA6-328-2404C@webmail-m136.sysops.aol.com>
	<20130114183151.TKJTT.14158.root@pamxwww09-z01>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
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I seem to recall the Bay Bridge was also closed for a few days when 
the were doing some work on the new eastern span to reroute the road.

John

At 06:31 PM 1/14/2013 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm almost embarrased to ask this, but is this race a spoof?  Empty 
>SF?  No people?  No cars?
>
>OK--go ahead-----make me feel silly:)
>
>tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 16:56:21 2013
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From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 15:52:15 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
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There was an article in the newspaper explaining it all.  It's been a while 
so I don't recall the details.  It was filmed over a period of five or more 
days.  The parts of the course were filmed individually and then spliced 
together.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

  ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: <healeyguy@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving


> I'm almost embarrased to ask this, but is this race a spoof?  Empty SF? 
> No people?  No cars?
>
> OK--go ahead-----make me feel silly:)
>
> tom
>
> ---- healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
>
> =============
> My wife asked if I was deaf as the video ended. Guess I had the volume up 
> a
> bit to hear the turbo. My answer to her was, WHAT!!!!!
> Aloha
> Perry
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Oritt michael.oritt@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 16:58:50 2013
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From: "Skip Saunders" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "'Tom Felts'" <tomfelts@windstream.net>, <healeyguy@aol.com>,
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8CFC0C072146BA6-328-2404C@webmail-m136.sysops.aol.com>
	<20130114183151.TKJTT.14158.root@pamxwww09-z01>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 18:54:50 -0500
thread-index: AQG5esMNbmYn/Lu1mlcgWZlxPIYjP5hyby+Q
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
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There are cars and people in the background.... but not a lot of traffic.
It seems to me like a typical Sunday morning in my home town.... I used to
drive my Healey on some of those same roads albeit not quite with the same
amount of wasted tire rubber.



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 6:32 PM
To: healeyguy@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving

I'm almost embarrased to ask this, but is this race a spoof?  Empty SF?  No
people?  No cars?

OK--go ahead-----make me feel silly:)

tom

---- healeyguy@aol.com wrote: 

=============
My wife asked if I was deaf as the video ended. Guess I had the volume up a
bit to hear the turbo. My answer to her was, WHAT!!!!!
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 17:51:33 2013
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 08:47:32 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Cc: bcvaughan@juno.com, Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	caahc@yahoogroups.com, Tom Surles <pvaurochs@gmail.com>,
	Doug Merch <douglas.merch@navy.mil>, Bob Tourville <tourv@erols.com>,
	Jeb McCarthy <mccarthykjeb@md.metrocast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All -

I had a good laugh with this because this is the exact route I used to take
daily using my '64 BJ8 & '66 Ford Bronco Sport back when I was getting my
MBA at Cal then driving home across the bridge to my apartment on Russian
Hill.  Well... it was the same all the way up to the cable cars (which are,
incidentally, fake in this video).  I used to go quite fast down that bay
bridge offramp in my Healey because it actually handled through there quite
well.  After the cable car it's rather disjointed - so they were all filmed
at different times.  Its kind of like one minute your on Wall Street and
then the next shot you're in Queens.  The part where he gets air in the
car, I actually filmed myself getting (some) air in my '66 Bronco almost on
the same spot... but to be fair, with its crap suspension it wasn't that
hard to get air in the Bronco.  Driving the wrong way up Lombard St was
fun, would love to do that one day!  The section next to Lombard, on
Filbert, is one of the steepest road sections in the entire US, good fun to
drive it at 15 mph, looks like you are driving off a cliff as you crest
over the lip onto the hill.

Cheers,

Alan

On Tue, Jan 15, 2013 at 4:31 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>wrote:

> Watch this:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=LuDN2bCIyus&feature=related
>
> Best--Michael
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 18:15:28 2013
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	Sat, 12 Jan 2013 18:52:40 -0800
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <phoenix722@comcast.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 02:52:40 +0000
References: <3D2525B1720C49288347B867D15C21F0@Mike>
	FILETIME=[0DC1B180:01CDF139]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car game
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

After the Broncos, Ravens game tonight I'm praying for alzheimers...

> From: phoenix722@comcast.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 12:28:16 -0800
> Subject: [Healeys] car game
>
> 100%!  Man, I must be old!  But on the other hand I can't remember what
> happened yesterday.
>
>
> Mike
> BN2
> ======================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "I Erbs" <eyera3@gmail.com>
> To: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2013 10:37 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game
>
>
> > *THIS IS LOTS OF FUN, BUT IT SURE IS DIFFICULT. . ENJOY!!*
> > 50's Car Test
> > *All right you young & older whipper-snappers, lets see how you do. Be
> > honest with yourself.no cheating. See how you do.*
> > *The average score is 73%*
> > *This will really rattle the cobwebs in the 'ol brain.*
> > *
> > *
> > *I missed 8.  Have fun. I did
> >
> > Car Show Game - 1950s - American Torque
> > .com<http://www.americantorque.com/game/car-show-50s/>
> > *
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 18:24:58 2013
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <eyera3@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 02:50:10 +0000
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	FILETIME=[B4527DA0:01CDF138]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

100% I guess I'm showing my age...

> From: eyera3@gmail.com
> Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 10:37:32 -0800
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] non lbc fun car ID game
>
> *THIS IS LOTS OF FUN, BUT IT SURE IS DIFFICULT. . ENJOY!!*
> 50's Car Test
> *All right you young & older whipper-snappers, lets see how you do. Be
> honest with yourself.no cheating. See how you do.*
> *The average score is 73%*
> *This will really rattle the cobwebs in the 'ol brain.*
> *
> *
> *I missed 8.  Have fun. I did
>
> Car Show Game - 1950s - American Torque
> .com<http://www.americantorque.com/game/car-show-50s/>
> *
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher and Consultant
> LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
> Upgrades and general troubleshooting
> Portland, OR
>
> *Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines.*
>
> Enzo Ferrari
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From: Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 20:30:57 -0500
To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Best street racing: Paris Rendezvous in the 1970s
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hmdR6B1DPac
_______________________________________________
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From: "Skip Saunders" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "'Alan Seigrist'" <healey.nut@gmail.com>, "'Michael Oritt'"
	<michael.oritt@gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B479Z=Cb9e2=EHmTP9yATL_baUT1y0AsjzX7KrRyOpHWw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkJF1g116kPEDxf=DeDYh9cd5dk-URtxYJKEoTzdUYNoNQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 21:26:40 -0500
Thread-Index: AQIQ6Wh8gMjXsIy+AdpuJAa3oN8/1wIsAtakl7JcbUA=
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: bcvaughan@juno.com, 'Austin Healey' <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	caahc@yahoogroups.com, 'Tom Surles' <pvaurochs@gmail.com>, 'Doug
	Merch' <douglas.merch@navy.mil>, 'Bob Tourville' <tourv@erols.com>,
	'Jeb McCarthy' <mccarthykjeb@md.metrocast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The trees on Lombard street have grown considerably since my days at Cal...
used to be quite a view going down the street... :-)


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 7:48 PM
To: Michael Oritt
Cc: bcvaughan@juno.com; Austin Healey; caahc@yahoogroups.com; Tom Surles;
Doug Merch; Bob Tourville; Jeb McCarthy
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving

All -

I had a good laugh with this because this is the exact route I used to take
daily using my '64 BJ8 & '66 Ford Bronco Sport back when I was getting my
MBA at Cal then driving home across the bridge to my apartment on Russian
Hill.  Well... it was the same all the way up to the cable cars (which are,
incidentally, fake in this video).  I used to go quite fast down that bay
bridge offramp in my Healey because it actually handled through there quite
well.  After the cable car it's rather disjointed - so they were all filmed
at different times.  Its kind of like one minute your on Wall Street and
then the next shot you're in Queens.  The part where he gets air in the car,
I actually filmed myself getting (some) air in my '66 Bronco almost on the
same spot... but to be fair, with its crap suspension it wasn't that hard to
get air in the Bronco.  Driving the wrong way up Lombard St was fun, would
love to do that one day!  The section next to Lombard, on Filbert, is one of
the steepest road sections in the entire US, good fun to drive it at 15 mph,
looks like you are driving off a cliff as you crest over the lip onto the
hill.

Cheers,

Alan

On Tue, Jan 15, 2013 at 4:31 AM, Michael Oritt
<michael.oritt@gmail.com>wrote:

> Watch this:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=LuDN2bCIyus&feature=related
>
> Best--Michael
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 04:19:57 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Tom Felts
  <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: 'Forum Healeys' <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

"Anyway---where is this thread going? :):)"  Around in circles probably, if my
experience on other lists is anything to go by!



--- On Mon, 14/1/13, Tom
Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> From: Tom Felts
<tomfelts@windstream.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "David Lodge"
<emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
> Cc: "'Forum Healeys'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>
Date: Monday, 14 January, 2013, 23:28
> That was my point I guess-----I tend
>
to think, naively maybe, that the the suppliers that most of
> us use and
trust, will do the best they can to get us
> quality parts, and won't
consciously sell us "cheap"
> parts.  I don't want to have to wait till I get
the
> part to tell if it is "cheap".  It is a matter of
> trust--and, if trust
cannot be gained, people will stop
> buying from that vendor and he will go
out of business.
> 
> I understand that all of us want to get a deal or
bargain,
> just not "cheap" parts.
> 
> So---if us asking for bargain prices
causes the supplier to
> compromise on quality, we have done a disservice to
>
outselves---shot ourselves in the foot.  And---"asking"
> doesn't make it so
unless no products are sold at the
> original asking price. 
> 
>
Anyway---where is this thread going? :):)
> 
> tom
> 
> 
> ---- David Lodge
<emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
> wrote: 
> 
> =============
> Hello Bob, Tom,
> 
>
Surely this is the classic "chicken and the egg".  We
> want the best quality
parts but we don't want to pay very
> much, and how do you tell what the
quality is until you have
> the parts in your hand/tried them for fit, etc. 
If a
> supplier finds that a part isn't selling, he will drop the
> price or
offer free shipping or other inducement to to get
> rid of them, but I have to
say that if I come across a
> REALLY cheap part my immediate reaction is:
why?  We
> all buy very much on trust - witness the current SC
>
correspondence here - as all the suppliers, especially in
> North America, are
usually a long distance away, and I have
> to say that even though I've just
started on the restoration
> of my BJ8, the quality of parts available
compared to a
> couple of other cars I happen to be involved with is very
>
impressive indeed and there is rarely a vast difference in
> price.  Something
to do with the value of our cars I
> suppose.  Just my two penn'orth.
> 
>
Regards, Lodge
> 
> --- On Sun, 13/1/13, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
>
wrote:
> 
> > From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
> > Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
> > To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
> > Cc: "'Forum Healeys'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Sunday, 13
January, 2013, 2:22
> > I didn't know it was customary to
> > even ask that
question.  And, If I have a concern
> about
> > whether a part is too costly,
I will check several
> other
> > sources--not ask if he has a cheaper
version.  When I
> > go to what I believe to be a quality supplier I believe
>
they
> > will sell me quality parts---not cheap stuff.  If
> they
> > want to
play that game, then they should make an effort
> to
> > give us a choice---a
quality part and a not so quality
> > part.  Of course, doubt if many can
afford to do
> > that.  
> > 
> > Still can't imagine any quality supplier
consciously
> > stocking inferior parts because he "believes" that is
> what
>
> most want.
> > 
> > What kicked off this discussion was the assertion that
>
we
> > get cheap parts because that is what we want, a thought
> I
> > cannot
accept.  We all want the best price we can get
> > for a quality part, so shop
around---don't settle for
> > cheap.
> > 
> > tom
> > 
> > 
> > ---- Bob
Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> > wrote: 
> > 
> > =============
> > Gotta
ask, Tom, when you order parts do you always tell
> the
> > vendor you want
the highest quality parts possible, and
> 
> > price is of no concern?
> > 
>
> Or, do you ask the price, and grumble a bit if you
> think
> > it's 'out of
line?'
> > 
> > 
> > Bob
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> >
>
*******************************************************************
> > Bob
Spidell           San
> > Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
> > 
> >
>
*******************************************************************
> >
_______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > 
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 21:36:52 2013
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	Mon, 14 Jan 2013 22:30:49 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAPTa0B479Z=Cb9e2=EHmTP9yATL_baUT1y0AsjzX7KrRyOpHWw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkJF1g116kPEDxf=DeDYh9cd5dk-URtxYJKEoTzdUYNoNQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 23:30:37 -0500
Thread-index: AQIQ6Wh8gMjXsIy+AdpuJAa3oN8/1wIsAtakAfAKpVOXovsaAIAAAynA
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Quite amazing driving
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Nothing was so much fun as learning how to drive in San Francisco with a
stick shift praying that I did not have to stop halfway up one of those
hills. Think Parnassas Street at UC Med School in SF.

John Sims, BN6 (another Cal grad)
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Skip Saunders
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 9:27 PM
To: 'Alan Seigrist'; 'Michael Oritt'
Cc: bcvaughan@juno.com; 'Austin Healey'; caahc@yahoogroups.com; 'Tom
Surles'; 'Doug Merch'; 'Bob Tourville'; 'Jeb McCarthy'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving

The trees on Lombard street have grown considerably since my days at Cal...
used to be quite a view going down the street... :-)


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 7:48 PM
To: Michael Oritt
Cc: bcvaughan@juno.com; Austin Healey; caahc@yahoogroups.com; Tom Surles;
Doug Merch; Bob Tourville; Jeb McCarthy
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving

All -

I had a good laugh with this because this is the exact route I used to take
daily using my '64 BJ8 & '66 Ford Bronco Sport back when I was getting my
MBA at Cal then driving home across the bridge to my apartment on Russian
Hill.  Well... it was the same all the way up to the cable cars (which are,
incidentally, fake in this video).  I used to go quite fast down that bay
bridge offramp in my Healey because it actually handled through there quite
well.  After the cable car it's rather disjointed - so they were all filmed
at different times.  Its kind of like one minute your on Wall Street and
then the next shot you're in Queens.  The part where he gets air in the car,
I actually filmed myself getting (some) air in my '66 Bronco almost on the
same spot... but to be fair, with its crap suspension it wasn't that hard to
get air in the Bronco.  Driving the wrong way up Lombard St was fun, would
love to do that one day!  The section next to Lombard, on Filbert, is one of
the steepest road sections in the entire US, good fun to drive it at 15 mph,
looks like you are driving off a cliff as you crest over the lip onto the
hill.

Cheers,

Alan

On 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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	Mon, 14 Jan 2013 22:36:27 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20130114194426.1991.qmail@server278.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 23:36:16 -0500
Thread-index: AQFMqMq/QfDiH927EdWjkhFGQnjQsplMXd8A
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey cartoon
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Or the one where a guy is rifling through a box of Crayons and lamenting
that there isn't one that is British Racing Green. The whole lot, (about 20
or so of them) thanks to Jim Werner are now on the Humor page of my site.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeymanjim@hansencc.net
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 2:44 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] healey cartoon

for at least 20 years or so i have had the "Shoe" cartoon in my garage about
the healey.  it is the one where the old mechanic takes the "professor" out
to the yard to show the totally wrecked, upside down car and tells the
professor it is a 68 healey and when the professor asks how can you tell,
the old mechanic states "by the classic lines".   i love it.
_______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 21:23:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
To: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>, List Healey
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey restoration cartoon
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for all the cartoons, the 6-cyl is the one I was talking about though
I have a 100 BN2 and I should re-enact that one too before the car is
finished.

I'll post a link to my photos.

Bert
________________________________
 From: J. Scott Morris <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>; Bert Van Brande
<bertvanbrande@yahoo.com> 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 8:49 AM
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Healey restoration cartoon
 

Good Day Bert;  I think what you are
looking for can be found on the Ancaster British Car Flea Market flyer for
this year.  Check it out at http://www.ancasterbritish.ca/Flyer.pdf  on the
ABC-FM website at http://www.ancasterbritish.ca
 
When I made the flyer last
year I looked all over but could not find the artist's name.  I had used it
for a tech project back in 1992 and tried to find the name at that time also. 
If this is the cartoon you are searching for and do find out who drew it,
please let me know.  It is a great drawing and the person who drew it should
be recognized. 

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling,
Murphy Lives

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of healey_start.jpg]
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 02:00:02 2013
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 19:43:09 +1100
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
	more information
Subject: [Healeys] Safety Check
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys, I suggest you check your front lower suspension arm inner pivot 
nuts, after seeing 2 cars have the special bolts come out after the nuts 
had worked their way off in a short space of time. It seems the 
reproductions with nylok nuts are a bit short on thread and the nylon 
doesn't bite in, rather than the castellated nut and split pin used on 
the originals. A few minutes with a spanner could save a disaster.
Cheers
Larry Varley
_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 16:59:54 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I should say I have had some success with SC parts when I call them and
clarify specifically if they have the part in stock and can they ship it
immediately.  That being said I've generally found their staff to be
comparatively less knowledgeable because they are serving several marques.


On Tue, Jan 15, 2013 at 12:19 PM, David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

> "Anyway---where is this thread going? :):)"  Around in circles probably,
> if my
> experience on other lists is anything to go by!
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 02:32:14 2013
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From: "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com>, "'Michael Oritt'"
	<michael.oritt@gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B479Z=Cb9e2=EHmTP9yATL_baUT1y0AsjzX7KrRyOpHWw@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 15:21:04 +1300
Thread-Index: Ac3ywbvSXAObc+B/R0y9V0vizRRwRwABNvjw
Cc: 'Austin Healey' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ken Block is always fun to watch.

I enjoyed the very last line at the end of the credits:   PLEASE HOON
RESPONSIBLY.    <VBG>

 

Mark

Auckland, NZ

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3000@gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, 15 January 2013 9:49 a.m.
To: Michael Oritt
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quite amazing driving

 

Don't know what's more amazing,,,, the driving or the fact that that
many

streets in San Francisco were blocked off? :)

 

I have done some street jumping in the City before, but never got that
much

air!! wow!!

 

Ira Erbs

Portland, OR

   _______                                  _______

     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)

         (_________________________)

 

 

On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 12:31 PM, Michael Oritt
<michael.oritt@gmail.com>wrote:

 

> Watch this:

> 

> http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=LuDN2bCIyus
<http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=LuDN2bCIyus&feature=related>
&feature=related

 

> 

> Best--Michael

> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 04:03:33 2013
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 10:59:08 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problems with SC Parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That is exactly what I did but apparantly my Webers are now in a truck in
Germany two and a half weeks after I ordered them from 'stock' in the UK.

I just hope they finally arrive. After that I will never use SC again.

Derek


On Tue, Jan 15, 2013 at 8:59 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> I should say I have had some success with SC parts when I call them and
> clarify specifically if they have the part in stock and can they ship it
> immediately.  That being said I've generally found their staff to be
> comparatively less knowledgeable because they are serving several marques.
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 15, 2013 at 12:19 PM, David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk
> >wrote:
>
> > "Anyway---where is this thread going? :):)"  Around in circles probably,
> > if my
> > experience on other lists is anything to go by!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 10:39:59 2013
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 12:35:33 -0500
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety Check
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This makes me wonder if it would be better to put the castellated 
nuts back on, and drill a hole for the pin...reproducing the original 
set-up. I don't think they EVER came undone!

Stephen, BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 11:10:00 2013
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References: <50F5169D.3030102@cosmos.net.au>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 13:05:55 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety Check
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I discovered that problem a few years back and the only solution that I
could figure was to install nyloc thin nuts if staying with the repop pins.
Seemed to work fine as I don't think there is very much axial load on those
special bolts.
Raced a few events like that and things seemed to stay in place.
Eventually I changed them all for good used parts with the castellated nut
and split pin..just seemed safer.

Michael S


On Tue, Jan 15, 2013 at 3:43 AM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> Hi Guys, I suggest you check your front lower suspension arm inner pivot
> nuts, after seeing 2 cars have the special bolts come out after the nuts
> had worked their way off in a short space of time. It seems the
> reproductions with nylok nuts are a bit short on thread and the nylon
> doesn't bite in, rather than the castellated nut and split pin used on the
> originals. A few minutes with a spanner could save a disaster.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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> options/healeys/michaelsalter@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com>
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 11:24:44 2013
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From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
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Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety Check
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Mike and Stephen, yes I thought the nyloc half nuts would have a 
better chance of staying in place also. It's probably worth saving the 
castellated nuts of old units if the repros have the same thread. I 
didn't check that. Probably not easy to get them these days. They 
certainly never came off.
Cheers
Larry

On 16/01/2013 5:05 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> I discovered that problem a few years back and the only solution that 
> I could figure was to install nyloc thin nuts if staying with the 
> repop pins.
> Seemed to work fine as I don't think there is very much axial load on 
> those special bolts.
> Raced a few events like that and things seemed to stay in place.
> Eventually I changed them all for good used parts with the castellated 
> nut and split pin..just seemed safer.
>
> Michael S
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 15, 2013 at 3:43 AM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au 
>
>     Hi Guys, I suggest you check your front lower suspension arm inner
>     pivot nuts, after seeing 2 cars have the special bolts come out
>     after the nuts had worked their way off in a short space of time.
>     It seems the reproductions with nylok nuts are a bit short on
>     thread and the nylon doesn't bite in, rather than the castellated
>     nut and split pin used on the originals. A few minutes with a
>     spanner could save a disaster.
>     Cheers
>     Larry Varley
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>     Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Michael Salter
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Version: 2013.0.2890 / Virus Database: 2638/6033 - Release Date: 01/14/13
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 12:08:33 2013
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i have 4 of the old ones i took off an old front end, along with a lot of other front end parts.  contact me off list if you need something.
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From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: 'Austin Healey list' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 15:15:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 front fender beading question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What is different between the front fender beading for Hundreds and
the six-cylinder Healeys?   Moss says that the original type for
Hundreds is not available but offer the 100-6 and later type instead.
Is it just the length and the fact that the Hundreds have the beading
in two pieces (in front of and behind the forward windshield feet)?
Since I have the originals I ought to be able to trim and fit to match
if that is the only difference.

If the tabs were in better shape I would just clean up and refit the
old ones.

-Roland
BN1 #724
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 front fender beading question
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Roland
Just cut up the six cylinder beading to match your original.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: 'Austin Healey list' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jan 15, 2013 6:15 pm
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 front fender beading question


What is different between the front fender beading for Hundreds and
he six-cylinder Healeys?   Moss says that the original type for
undreds is not available but offer the 100-6 and later type instead.
s it just the length and the fact that the Hundreds have the beading
n two pieces (in front of and behind the forward windshield feet)?
ince I have the originals I ought to be able to trim and fit to match
f that is the only difference.
If the tabs were in better shape I would just clean up and refit the
ld ones.
-Roland
N1 #724
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 16:50:29 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 00:42:46 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
Organization: Hemma
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Felt sealing strips
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, I have discussed the issue with Magnus Karlsson, and we came to the 
conclution that I have been given sealing strips for a 4 cylinder 
engine. The 4 cylinder engine uses strips that are approximately 10 mm 
diameter, while the 6 cylinder engine needs them to be some 7,5 mm. I 
ended up reusing my old ones.
Will take it up with the company I bought the gasket set from.

Per

Per Schoerner skrev 2013-01-15 00:21:
> Hi
> Have installed new main bearings. The two in the middle took a couple of
> minutes, but the front and rear took the best part of the day. The felt
> sealing strips were very difficult, and at some stage I almost gave up,
> felt tempted to reuse my old ones. The front seems OK now, but the rear
> still have some material from the strip squeezed between the block and
> the cap. Will have to redo that tomorrow.
> Does anyone have any good tips on how to do this? I seem to remember
> that these strips originally were made of cork, but even the workshop
> manual says to install new cork or felt strips.
>
> Per in Sweden
> _______________________________________________
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References: <r7obf81debdhspgmvfnv40eiohe2hjnfe2@4ax.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 10:14:23 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Austin Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 front fender beading question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, you are correct.  the strips are the same with the exception of the
lengths.  You may want to practice a bit on how to get a nice finished tip
on the beading after you've nipped it off.

On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 7:15 AM, Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> What is different between the front fender beading for Hundreds and
> the six-cylinder Healeys?   Moss says that the original type for
> Hundreds is not available but offer the 100-6 and later type instead.
> Is it just the length and the fact that the Hundreds have the beading
> in two pieces (in front of and behind the forward windshield feet)?
> Since I have the originals I ought to be able to trim and fit to match
> if that is the only difference.
>
> If the tabs were in better shape I would just clean up and refit the
> old ones.
>
> -Roland
> BN1 #724
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 21:26:02 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 05:21:38 +0100
To: "Forum Healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For my 3000 MK2 engine I need new engine bearings, main and big ends,
both +10" oversize. There was no chance to get any Vandervell,
Glazier, AE, or similar known quality bearings. It seems only
available are County/KIng bearing shells. Those who did an engine
overhaul recently, what kind of bearings have you used? 

	Thanks, 

	Josef Eckert 

	Konigswinter/Germany
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 23:04:26 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 07:00:09 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1TvKVO-0VXwsS0@fwd04.aul.t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Josef,
Often ebay can be a good source:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-A105-A110-A95-A99-MAIN-BEARINGS-010-/370476131108?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5642192324
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 16-1-2013 5:21, josef-eckert@t-online.de schreef:
> For my 3000 MK2 engine I need new engine bearings, main and big ends,
> both +10" oversize. There was no chance to get any Vandervell,
> Glazier, AE, or similar known quality bearings. It seems only
> available are County/KIng bearing shells. Those who did an engine
> overhaul recently, what kind of bearings have you used?
>
> 	Thanks,
>
> 	Josef Eckert
>
> 	Konigswinter/Germany
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6034 - datum van uitgifte: 01/15/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 23:09:32 2013
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References: <50F641E9.3040307@chello.nl>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 07:05:19 +0100
To: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, "Forum Healeys"
	<Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Engine_Bearings?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Kees, 

	The ones you refer to are the County bearings I like to avoid. 

	Josef  

 Von: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
An: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
Datum: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 07:00:09 +0100

 Josef,
Often ebay can be a good source:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-A105-A110-A95-A99-MAIN-BEARINGS-010-/370476131108?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5642192324
[1]
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6034 - datum van uitgifte:
01/15/13
>
>

-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl [2]

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [4]

Healeys@autox.team.net [6]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [7]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef-eckert@t-online.de
[8]

Links:
------
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 23:11:19 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:07:19 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the ones from county are fine as long as they are tri-metal.  If
they are tin bearings then that's when they are a bit suspect.

On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 12:21 PM, josef-eckert@t-online.de <
josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote:

> For my 3000 MK2 engine I need new engine bearings, main and big ends,
> both +10" oversize. There was no chance to get any Vandervell,
> Glazier, AE, or similar known quality bearings. It seems only
> available are County/KIng bearing shells. Those who did an engine
> overhaul recently, what kind of bearings have you used?
>
>         Thanks,
>
>         Josef Eckert
>
>         Konigswinter/Germany
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 23:40:27 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 07:36:17 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
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To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
References: <50F641E9.3040307@chello.nl> <1TvM7j-1ixTRw0@fwd09.aul.t-online.de>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Josef,
Sorry, you are right, I was a bit to quick to hit the button. They are 
also rather expensive at that.
However it is worth your while to check ebay every so often. Also search 
or other cars with the same engine. Ebay.co.uk or ebay.com is the best 
bet. Perhaps ebay.com.au will also be a candidate.
There are one set of  Glacier rod bearing shells and one set of 
Vandervell main bearing shells, both 20 thou under size, on at the 
moment for a AH 100.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 16-1-2013 7:05, josef-eckert@t-online.de schreef:
>
> Kees,
>
> The ones you refer to are the County bearings I like to avoid.
>
> Josef
>
>
> *Von:* Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
> *An:* healeys@autox.team.net
> *Betreff:* Re: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
> *Datum:* Wed, 16 Jan 2013 07:00:09 +0100
>
> Josef,
> Often ebay can be a good source:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-A105-A110-A95-A99-MAIN-BEARINGS-010-/370476131108?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5642192324
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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	SSBhbSB1c2luZyBBQ0wgbWFpbnMgYW5kIEtpbmcgdHJpbWV0YWwgYmlnIGVuZHMgYW5kIHNvIGZhciBub3RoaW5nIGhhcyBleHBsb2RlZCBhZnRlciBhIGZldyBob3VycyBkeW5vIHJ1bm5pbmcuIFRoZSBjb2xvdXIgb2YgdGhlIGJlYXJpbmdzIGlzIGFuIGluZGljYXRvciBvZiB3aGV0aGVyIHRoZSBLaW5ncyBhcmUgYmkgb3IgdHJpIG1ldGFsLSBkdWxsIGdyZXkgYXMgb3Bwb3NlZCB0byBsaWdodCBhbHVtaW5pdW0gY29sb3VyIGZvciB0aGUgYmktbWV0YWwgZnJvbSBtZW1vcnkuCgpUaGUgS2luZyBiZWFyaW4BMAEBAQE-
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 22:45:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am using ACL mains and King trimetal big ends and so far nothing has
exploded after a few hours dyno running. The colour of the bearings is an
indicator of whether the Kings are bi or tri metal- dull grey as opposed to
light aluminium colour for the bi-metal from memory.

The King bearings had
quite a number of small lumps on both the back and front faces which I gently
scraped off and smoothed with 1500 grit sandpaper before installation. The
ACL's went straight in.

More important than the manufacture of the bearing is
the clearance and I'd strongly recommend determining the installed bearing
diameters before grinding the crank. Mine were all on the bigger side of ok so
the crank journals are ground between 0.06 and 1.00 thou bigger than the max
book spec to compensate.

Andy.


> Received: Wednesday, 16 January, 2013,
7:07 PM
> I think the ones from county are fine
> as long as they are
tri-metal.  If
> they are tin bearings then that's when they are a bit
>
suspect.
> 
> On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 12:21 PM, josef-eckert@t-online.de
> <
>
josef-eckert@t-online.de>
> wrote:
> 
> > For my 3000 MK2 engine I need new
engine bearings, main
> and big ends,
> > both +10" oversize. There was no
chance to get any
> Vandervell,
> > Glazier, AE, or similar known quality
bearings. It
> seems only
> > available are County/KIng bearing shells. Those
who did
> an engine
> > overhaul recently, what kind of bearings have you
>
used?
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 02:14:30 2013
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From: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Date: 16 Jan 2013 10:09:39 +0100
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Josef,

we have several sets Vandervell/Glacier bearings for the 6 cylinder (and 4 cylinder) Healey engine in stock.

Eric
Brits 'n' Pieces
Heinsberg/Germany

For my 3000 MK2 engine I need new engine bearings, main and big ends,
both " oversize. There was no chance to get any Vandervell,
Glazier, AE, or similar known quality bearings. It seems only
available are County/KIng bearing shells. Those who did an engine
overhaul recently, what kind of bearings have you used? 

	Thanks, 

	Josef Eckert 

	Konigswinter/Germany
.
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 06:23:57 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:19:26 +0100
To: "Forum Healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Engine_Bearings?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Many thanks to all responded. I already bought the trimetal
King/County bearings and after a short chat with my machine shop I am
confident the bearings are ok. Also Ahead4Healeys and AH Spares sell
them, so they should be alright. 

	My machine shop also mentioned they measured the bearing diameters as
they also have their experience with County bearings and grinding the
crank journals according to the bearing diameters. 

	Otherwise they also see no reason not to go with them. 

	So thanks to all, I am now relieved and go forward with the bearings
I have.   Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GermanyAn:
"josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
Datum: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 07:45:16 +0100

 I am using ACL mains and King trimetal big ends and so far nothing
has exploded after a few hours dyno running. The colour of the
bearings is an indicator of whether the Kings are bi or tri metal-
dull grey as opposed to light aluminium colour for the bi-metal from
memory.

The King bearings had quite a number of small lumps on both the back
and front faces which I gently scraped off and smoothed with 1500 grit
sandpaper before installation. The ACL's went straight in.

More important than the manufacture of the bearing is the clearance
and I'd strongly recommend determining the installed bearing diameters
before grinding the crank. Mine were all on the bigger side of ok so
the crank journals are ground between 0.06 and 1.00 thou bigger than
the max book spec to compensate.

Andy.

> Received: Wednesday, 16 January, 2013, 7:07 PM
> I think the ones from county are fine
> as long as they are tri-metal.  If
> they are tin bearings then that's when they are a bit
> suspect.
> 
> On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 12:21 PM, josef-eckert@t-online.de [1]
> <
> josef-eckert@t-online.de [2]>
> wrote:
> 
> > For my 3000 MK2 engine I need new engine bearings, main
> and big ends,
> > both +10" oversize. There was no chance to get any
> Vandervell,
> > Glazier, AE, or similar known quality bearings. It
> seems only
> > available are County/KIng bearing shells. Those who did
> an engine
> > overhaul recently, what kind of bearings have you
> used?

Links:
------
[1] javascript:void(0)
[2] javascript:void(0)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 12:12:41 2013
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From: "Alan Bromfield" <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 18:58:23 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac30G2zezdAgKkC1SmG5K1cgqLu/RQ==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Alternative kingpins?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Team.
I am working on further (potential) modifications to 'BlueHealey' replacing
the drum brakes with a disk setup. If I am successful then the drum setup
will be passed down to my AH100 project.

I have discovered that the MGB swivel axle, which is readily available for
low, or even no,  money, can be mated to a Healey front suspension by using
a different kingpin.  BMC Part number '8G 4207' is  a perfect fit with the
correct trunnion eye at the bottom.

Does anyone have access to a parts list that can advise what cars (or
taxi's?) this might have been fitted to?

Many thanks

  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
                (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 12:27:08 2013
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References: <001201cdf41b$7650e600$62f2b200$@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 11:22:57 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Alan Bromfield <bluehealey@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Alternative kingpins?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mgc disk brakes set up will fit

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
On Jan 16, 2013 10:58 AM, "Alan Bromfield" <bluehealey@gmail.com> wrote:

> Team.
> I am working on further (potential) modifications to 'BlueHealey' replacing
> the drum brakes with a disk setup. If I am successful then the drum setup
> will be passed down to my AH100 project.
>
> I have discovered that the MGB swivel axle, which is readily available for
> low, or even no,  money, can be mated to a Healey front suspension by using
> a different kingpin.  BMC Part number '8G 4207' is  a perfect fit with the
> correct trunnion eye at the bottom.
>
> Does anyone have access to a parts list that can advise what cars (or
> taxi's?) this might have been fitted to?
>
> Many thanks
>
>   _________________________________________
> (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
>         (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
>                 (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 17:47:16 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 16:38:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Rich <rich_holman@yahoo.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle gasket question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

________________________________
 My Healey has developed a minor rear
axle leak and I am replacing 
the rear oil seal and the paper gasket on the
axle shaft.

My question:   Is sealant required on the paper gasket?  If so
recommendation.
.
Thanks,

Rich
57 BN4
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References: <1358182173.79283.YahooMailClassic@web162606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<1358383101.57776.YahooMailNeo@web141103.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 19:52:08 -0500
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Rich <rich_holman@yahoo.com>
Cc: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle gasket question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sealant is not required if the paper gasket it used.  Soak it in water to
make it flexible before installing.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 7:38 PM, Rich <rich_holman@yahoo.com> wrote:

> ________________________________
>  My Healey has developed a minor rear
> axle leak and I am replacing
> the rear oil seal and the paper gasket on the
> axle shaft.
>
> My question:   Is sealant required on the paper gasket?  If so
> recommendation.
> .
> Thanks,
>
> Rich
> 57 BN4
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 18:03:53 2013
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	2013 19:59:43 -0500
From: "Charlie Schott" <schottc@knology.net>
To: "Rich" <rich_holman@yahoo.com>, "List Healey"
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1358182173.79283.YahooMailClassic@web162606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<1358383101.57776.YahooMailNeo@web141103.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 16:59:43 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 Registration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have lost the e-mail where I can enter data (car numbers, previous owners, 
etc) on my BT7. Would the person who is collecting that information, or 
anyone else, please send me the link? Thanks. schottc@knology.net

Regards,

Charlie Schott
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From: Gbouff1@aol.com
Full-name: Gbouff1
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 20:15:48 -0500 (EST)
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1358385348;
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Subject: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It's winter (in Connecticut), so I working on things that I can do in  the 
warmth of the basement.  The ring gear on the flywheel of my 60  BN7  has 
about 5 inched of teeth which look a bit ragged.
 
Has anyone out there changed their own ring rear?  If so, what method  did 
you use to remove the old and replace the new ring gear.
 
Gary Bouffard
60 BN7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 18:24:05 2013
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: <josef-eckert@t-online.de>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 01:20:04 +0000
References: <1TvKVO-0VXwsS0@fwd04.aul.t-online.de>
	FILETIME=[C76A0EB0:01CDF450]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For those folks here in the States,  I have a number of sets of ACL rod and
tri-metal main bearings for the 6 cylinder engines in both .010 and .020.
Contact me directly for pricing.

Richard Mayor
Portland, Oregon

> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 05:21:38 +0100
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net
> From: josef-eckert@t-online.de
> Subject: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
>
> For my 3000 MK2 engine I need new engine bearings, main and big ends,
> both +10" oversize. There was no chance to get any Vandervell,
> Glazier, AE, or similar known quality bearings. It seems only
> available are County/KIng bearing shells. Those who did an engine
> overhaul recently, what kind of bearings have you used?
>
> 	Thanks,
>
> 	Josef Eckert
>
> 	Konigswinter/Germany
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 18:47:18 2013
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	Wed, 16 Jan 2013 17:42:00 -0800
From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: <healeyguy@bredband.net>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 01:42:00 +0000
References: <50F492F8.3060600@bredband.net>
	FILETIME=[D7C160D0:01CDF453]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Felt sealing strips
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have built many engines for racing. I do not use the round cork, or felt,
plugs that come with those gasket sets.  I use cotton string.  I take a large
nail,  16p I think, and grind off the sharp tip. I now have something to tamp
down the string as I feed it into the hole between the main caps and the
block. I use a small lightweight ball-pein hammer to tamp down the string.
When I have filled the hole with compacted string I use a dab of silicone to
seal the end and keep the wadding in place. It only takes a minute or so per
hole.  This has always worked well for me.

Richard Mayor
Portland, Oregon

gives a good seal and none of the headache associated with trying to use the
cylindrical era i beliebe 9pek alargest

> Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 00:21:28 +0100
> From: healeyguy@bredband.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Felt sealing strips
>
> Hi
> Have installed new main bearings. The two in the middle took a couple of
> minutes, but the front and rear took the best part of the day. The felt
> sealing strips were very difficult, and at some stage I almost gave up,
> felt tempted to reuse my old ones. The front seems OK now, but the rear
> still have some material from the strip squeezed between the block and
> the cap. Will have to redo that tomorrow.
> Does anyone have any good tips on how to do this? I seem to remember
> that these strips originally were made of cork, but even the workshop
> manual says to install new cork or felt strips.
>
> Per in Sweden
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 19:03:42 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 17:59:02 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: Gbouff1@aol.com
References: <1f663.1d4a98db.3e28aac4@aol.com>
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Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We did it with an oxy-acetylne torch. Heat the ring almost red hot and it'll fall off the flywheel (stand the flywheel 
on a cinder block).  Set the new ring on a flat surface with the flywheel positioned squarely above it and heat the 
ring.  'Encourage' the flywheel and ring to mate up square.

Bob




On 1/16/2013 5:15 PM, Gbouff1@aol.com wrote:
> It's winter (in Connecticut), so I working on things that I can do in  the
> warmth of the basement.  The ring gear on the flywheel of my 60  BN7  has
> about 5 inched of teeth which look a bit ragged.
>   
> Has anyone out there changed their own ring rear?  If so, what method  did
> you use to remove the old and replace the new ring gear.
>   
> Gary Bouffard
> 60 BN7
> _______________________________________________
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 19:06:29 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 18:02:07 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
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To: Gbouff1@aol.com
References: <1f663.1d4a98db.3e28aac4@aol.com> <50F75AE6.6040903@comcast.net>
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Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh, and make sure the ring gear is oriented properly (the teeth are beveled on one edge).


On 1/16/2013 5:59 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> We did it with an oxy-acetylne torch. Heat the ring almost red hot and it'll fall off the flywheel (stand the flywheel 
> on a cinder block).  Set the new ring on a flat surface with the flywheel positioned squarely above it and heat the 
> ring.  'Encourage' the flywheel and ring to mate up square.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> On 1/16/2013 5:15 PM, Gbouff1@aol.com wrote:
>> It's winter (in Connecticut), so I working on things that I can do in  the
>> warmth of the basement.  The ring gear on the flywheel of my 60 BN7  has
>> about 5 inched of teeth which look a bit ragged.
>>   Has anyone out there changed their own ring rear?  If so, what method  did
>> you use to remove the old and replace the new ring gear.
>>   Gary Bouffard
>> 60 BN7
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 20:38:39 2013
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	Jan 2013 03:34:18 +0000
From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1f663.1d4a98db.3e28aac4@aol.com> <50F75AE6.6040903@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 22:34:17 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac30Vl5LwafWOXfJRD6L/hF640X87gAC7NaQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I used a cold chisel on mine to get the old one off.  Heated the new one in
the kitchen oven and chilled the flywheel in the refrigerator and tapped the
ring gear on.  I had some wood blocks set up on the floor near the oven so I
could get it done quickly.  Also used a length of 2 x 4 that spanned the
diameter of the flywheel, and tapped on that to get the ring gear seated
properly.  Note which way the teeth are beveled on your old one and make
sure you get it right the first time. 

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA


On 1/16/2013 5:15 PM, Gbouff1@aol.com wrote:
> It's winter (in Connecticut), so I working on things that I can do in  
> the warmth of the basement.  The ring gear on the flywheel of my 60  
> BN7  has about 5 inched of teeth which look a bit ragged.
>   
> Has anyone out there changed their own ring rear?  If so, what method  
> did you use to remove the old and replace the new ring gear.
>   
> Gary Bouffard
> 60 BN7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 21:38:56 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 23:33:50 -0500
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net>
References: <1358182173.79283.YahooMailClassic@web162606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<1358383101.57776.YahooMailNeo@web141103.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<7C03BCB6A453490E9D75C6687B07CD09@CharliePC>
Cc: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 Registration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Charlie,

I'm handling the 3000 MkI registry - see the link in my signature.  Bill 
Bolton (tricarb@aol.com) does the MkII (BT7/BN7) registry.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 01/16/2013 07:59 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:
> I have lost the e-mail where I can enter data (car numbers, previous
> owners, etc) on my BT7. Would the person who is collecting that
> information, or anyone else, please send me the link? Thanks.
> schottc@knology.net
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 03:32:08 2013
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References: <1358318716.24057.YahooMailClassic@web124906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<1TvStq-2CGpg80@fwd19.aul.t-online.de>
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 18:27:26 +0800
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Josef -

If you can believe it, a set of vandervel bearings +.10 just showed up on EBay
today

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Austin-Healey-100-6-3000-Vandervell-Main-Bearings-VP7
71-010-NOS-/400390350480?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123

Alan

On Jan 16, 2013, at 9:19 PM, "josef-eckert@t-online.de"
<josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote:

> Many thanks to all responded. I already bought the trimetal
> King/County bearings and after a short chat with my machine shop I am
> confident the bearings are ok. Also Ahead4Healeys and AH Spares sell
> them, so they should be alright.
>
>    My machine shop also mentioned they measured the bearing diameters as
> they also have their experience with County bearings and grinding the
> crank journals according to the bearing diameters.
>
>    Otherwise they also see no reason not to go with them.
>
>    So thanks to all, I am now relieved and go forward with the bearings
> I have.   Josef Eckert Konigswinter/GermanyAn:
> "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
> Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Engine Bearings
> Datum: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 07:45:16 +0100
>
> I am using ACL mains and King trimetal big ends and so far nothing
> has exploded after a few hours dyno running. The colour of the
> bearings is an indicator of whether the Kings are bi or tri metal-
> dull grey as opposed to light aluminium colour for the bi-metal from
> memory.
>
> The King bearings had quite a number of small lumps on both the back
> and front faces which I gently scraped off and smoothed with 1500 grit
> sandpaper before installation. The ACL's went straight in.
>
> More important than the manufacture of the bearing is the clearance
> and I'd strongly recommend determining the installed bearing diameters
> before grinding the crank. Mine were all on the bigger side of ok so
> the crank journals are ground between 0.06 and 1.00 thou bigger than
> the max book spec to compensate.
>
> Andy.
>
>> Received: Wednesday, 16 January, 2013, 7:07 PM
>> I think the ones from county are fine
>> as long as they are tri-metal.  If
>> they are tin bearings then that's when they are a bit
>> suspect.
>>
>> On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 12:21 PM, josef-eckert@t-online.de [1]
>> <
>> josef-eckert@t-online.de [2]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> For my 3000 MK2 engine I need new engine bearings, main
>> and big ends,
>>> both +10" oversize. There was no chance to get any
>> Vandervell,
>>> Glazier, AE, or similar known quality bearings. It
>> seems only
>>> available are County/KIng bearing shells. Those who did
>> an engine
>>> overhaul recently, what kind of bearings have you
>> used?
>
> Links:
> ------
> [1] javascript:void(0)
> [2] javascript:void(0)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 04:58:10 2013
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 12:52:07 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1f663.1d4a98db.3e28aac4@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

To remove the ring gear use a cold chisel between two teeth  to break 
the ring. Remove all burrs and rust and clean the new gear ring and 
flywheel to perfection. Wait until the Missus is out for a day or two. 
Leave the flywheel in the freezer overnight and  heat up the ring gear  
to the maximum in the oven for about an hour. Before you start the job 
make sure you have all the required tools etc. at hand. Prepare some 
blocks on the floor near the oven and lay down the cold flywheel flat on 
those. Remove the ring gear from the oven using oven gloves and slide it 
on to the flywheel, making sure it is in the right orientation and that 
it is seated squarely and fully home. It will probably fall in its place 
straight away but be prepared to use a copper faced hammer to lightly 
tap it home. Work relaxed but be quick as the ring gear will cool down 
pretty fast.
A very simple but satisfying job.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 17-1-2013 2:15, Gbouff1@aol.com schreef:
> It's winter (in Connecticut), so I working on things that I can do in  the
> warmth of the basement.  The ring gear on the flywheel of my 60  BN7  has
> about 5 inched of teeth which look a bit ragged.
>   
> Has anyone out there changed their own ring rear?  If so, what method  did
> you use to remove the old and replace the new ring gear.
>   
> Gary Bouffard
> 60 BN7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6037 - datum van uitgifte: 01/16/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 04:59:11 2013
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 12:54:05 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1358182173.79283.YahooMailClassic@web162606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<1358383101.57776.YahooMailNeo@web141103.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<CAPTa0B6U3=fgwShjqw0vDo438xn4Bx7a8fzhA05N37CLT6V0yg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle gasket question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Do not soak it in water but use thin oil instead to prevent corrosion.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 17-1-2013 1:52, Michael Oritt schreef:
> Sealant is not required if the paper gasket it used.  Soak it in water to
> make it flexible before installing.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 7:38 PM, Rich <rich_holman@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> ________________________________
>>   My Healey has developed a minor rear
>> axle leak and I am replacing
>> the rear oil seal and the paper gasket on the
>> axle shaft.
>>
>> My question:   Is sealant required on the paper gasket?  If so
>> recommendation.
>> .
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Rich
>> 57 BN4
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6037 - datum van uitgifte: 01/16/13
_______________________________________________
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	<50F7E65D.8060908@chello.nl>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 07:22:19 -0500
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle gasket question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I must disagree with Kees:

Soaking the gasket in water for a few minutes prior to installation makes
it more flexible and--especially in the case of the third member
gasket--much less susceptible to tearing during installation.  Normal oil
seepage takes care of corrosion.

And though not necessary a bit of RTV never hurts.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 6:54 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Do not soak it in water but use thin oil instead to prevent corrosion.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 17-1-2013 1:52, Michael Oritt schreef:
>
>> Sealant is not required if the paper gasket it used.  Soak it in water to
>> make it flexible before installing.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 7:38 PM, Rich <rich_holman@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>  ______________________________**__
>>>   My Healey has developed a minor rear
>>> axle leak and I am replacing
>>> the rear oil seal and the paper gasket on the
>>> axle shaft.
>>>
>>> My question:   Is sealant required on the paper gasket?  If so
>>> recommendation.
>>> .
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Rich
>>> 57 BN4
>>> ______________________________**_________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/healeys/michael.oritt@**
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>>>
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>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6037 - datum van uitgifte:
>> 01/16/13
>>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 07:57:55 2013
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 22:53:22 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axle gasket question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree with Michael here, there is absolutely no need for any sealant,
especially if you have a new gasket and o ring.

I would actually argue against the RTV simply because I watch for small
leaks out of the rear hub, which if I see them then I know this is an
indicator that the wheel nuts on the spline hub might be loose.

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 8:22 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>wrote:

> I must disagree with Kees:
>
> Soaking the gasket in water for a few minutes prior to installation makes
> it more flexible and--especially in the case of the third member
> gasket--much less susceptible to tearing during installation.  Normal oil
> seepage takes care of corrosion.
>
> And though not necessary a bit of RTV never hurts.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 6:54 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
> > Do not soak it in water but use thin oil instead to prevent corrosion.
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> > NL
> >
> >
> > Op 17-1-2013 1:52, Michael Oritt schreef:
> >
> >> Sealant is not required if the paper gasket it used.  Soak it in water
> to
> >> make it flexible before installing.
> >>
> >> Best--Michael Oritt
> >>
> >>
> >> On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 7:38 PM, Rich <rich_holman@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>  ______________________________**__
> >>>   My Healey has developed a minor rear
> >>> axle leak and I am replacing
> >>> the rear oil seal and the paper gasket on the
> >>> axle shaft.
> >>>
> >>> My question:   Is sealant required on the paper gasket?  If so
> >>> recommendation.
> >>> .
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> Rich
> >>> 57 BN4
> >>> ______________________________**_________________
> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<
> http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> >>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>>
> >>> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >>>
> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/healeys/michael.oritt@**
> >>> gmail.com<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> >>>
> >> ______________________________**_________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<
> http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> >> options/healeys/coudesluijs@**chello.nl<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -----
> >> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6037 - datum van uitgifte:
> >> 01/16/13
> >>
> > ______________________________**_________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<
> http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> > options/healeys/michael.oritt@**gmail.com<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 11:26:14 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If you want to avoid the wrath of "She who must be obeyed" may I recommend
the barbeque for heating ones ringgear.

Michael S


On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 6:52 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> To remove the ring gear use a cold chisel between two teeth  to break the
> ring. Remove all burrs and rust and clean the new gear ring and flywheel to
> perfection. Wait until the Missus is out for a day or two. Leave the
> flywheel in the freezer overnight and  heat up the ring gear  to the
> maximum in the oven for about an hour. Before you start the job make sure
> you have all the required tools etc. at hand. Prepare some blocks on the
> floor near the oven and lay down the cold flywheel flat on those. Remove
> the ring gear from the oven using oven gloves and slide it on to the
> flywheel, making sure it is in the right orientation and that it is seated
> squarely and fully home. It will probably fall in its place straight away
> but be prepared to use a copper faced hammer to lightly tap it home. Work
> relaxed but be quick as the ring gear will cool down pretty fast.
> A very simple but satisfying job.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 17-1-2013 2:15, Gbouff1@aol.com schreef:
>
>> It's winter (in Connecticut), so I working on things that I can do in  the
>> warmth of the basement.  The ring gear on the flywheel of my 60  BN7  has
>> about 5 inched of teeth which look a bit ragged.
>>   Has anyone out there changed their own ring rear?  If so, what method
>>  did
>> you use to remove the old and replace the new ring gear.
>>   Gary Bouffard
>> 60 BN7
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/healeys/coudesluijs@**chello.nl<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6037 - datum van uitgifte:
>> 01/16/13
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Dorpsstraat 183
> 2995XG Heerjansdam
> T: 078-677 1233
> E: coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
> Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
> Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
> www.jensenholland.nl
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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> options/healeys/michaelsalter@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com>
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 10:09:49 2013
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 12:02:37 -0500 (EST)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1358442161;
	bh=YgsXsGGLU+ki2Xz2g+Du3Tt3NGcmNoej3WlsO9Wuejk=;
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Subject: [Healeys] Race Photos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For those of you who don't get the weekly Sports Car Digest email,  here's 
a link to their top fifty vintage race photos of 2012. There are  five 
photos per page and all of them are quite stunning. Of particular  interest on 
page 8 is the 100S at Goodwood and on page 10 there is a great shot  of an E 
type going through a corner. Like I said though all of the shots are  really 
nice, so take a look if you like and enjoy!
_http://www.sportscardigest.com/best-vintage-car-racing-photo-of-2012/_ 
(http://www.sportscardigest.com/best-vintage-car-racing-photo-of-2012/) 
 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 10:30:12 2013
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From: linwoodrose@mac.com
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 12:25:51 -0500
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh Michael you are so sensitive! 

Having "cooked" a radiator in the kitchen oven to cure high temp paint, only to have the soldered pieces fall apart and produce mega smoke followed by fire trucks when the smoke detectors went off, I learned long ago that kitchens and car parts are best not mixed!

:o)

Lin

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 17, 2013, at 11:26 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:

> If you want to avoid the wrath of "She who must be obeyed" may I recommend
> the barbeque for heating ones ringgear.
> 
> Michael S
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 6:52 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
> 
>> To remove the ring gear use a cold chisel between two teeth  to break the
>> ring. Remove all burrs and rust and clean the new gear ring and flywheel to
>> perfection. Wait until the Missus is out for a day or two. Leave the
>> flywheel in the freezer overnight and  heat up the ring gear  to the
>> maximum in the oven for about an hour. Before you start the job make sure
>> you have all the required tools etc. at hand. Prepare some blocks on the
>> floor near the oven and lay down the cold flywheel flat on those. Remove
>> the ring gear from the oven using oven gloves and slide it on to the
>> flywheel, making sure it is in the right orientation and that it is seated
>> squarely and fully home. It will probably fall in its place straight away
>> but be prepared to use a copper faced hammer to lightly tap it home. Work
>> relaxed but be quick as the ring gear will cool down pretty fast.
>> A very simple but satisfying job.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <1f663.1d4a98db.3e28aac4@aol.com> <50F7E5E7.4090206@chello.nl>
	<CAB3i7LL3U6TWxvCnMHWCnxGRzgyf=7MME=4y4DwJ9czBvkEuSw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 11:27:07 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac30z2yJRMCklgkTRbqhFvophEGcgQAEMeXQ
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Best advice I've seen in years...
dp

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 9:26 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear

If you want to avoid the wrath of "She who must be obeyed" may I recommend
the barbeque for heating ones ringgear.

Michael S


On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 6:52 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> To remove the ring gear use a cold chisel between two teeth  to break the
> ring. Remove all burrs and rust and clean the new gear ring and flywheel
to
> perfection. Wait until the Missus is out for a day or two. Leave the
> flywheel in the freezer overnight and  heat up the ring gear  to the
> maximum in the oven for about an hour. Before you start the job make sure
> you have all the required tools etc. at hand. Prepare some blocks on the
> floor near the oven and lay down the cold flywheel flat on those. Remove
> the ring gear from the oven using oven gloves and slide it on to the
> flywheel, making sure it is in the right orientation and that it is seated
> squarely and fully home. It will probably fall in its place straight away
> but be prepared to use a copper faced hammer to lightly tap it home. Work
> relaxed but be quick as the ring gear will cool down pretty fast.
> A very simple but satisfying job.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 17-1-2013 2:15, Gbouff1@aol.com schreef:
>
>> It's winter (in Connecticut), so I working on things that I can do in
the
>> warmth of the basement.  The ring gear on the flywheel of my 60  BN7  has
>> about 5 inched of teeth which look a bit ragged.
>>   Has anyone out there changed their own ring rear?  If so, what method
>>  did
>> you use to remove the old and replace the new ring gear.
>>   Gary Bouffard
>> 60 BN7
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Support Team.Net
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailm
an/listinfo/healeys>
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>
options/healeys/coudesluijs@**chello.nl<http://autox.team.net/mailman/option
s/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2638/6037 - datum van uitgifte:
>> 01/16/13
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Dorpsstraat 183
> 2995XG Heerjansdam
> T: 078-677 1233
> E: coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
> Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
> Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
> www.jensenholland.nl
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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ons/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com>
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 11:43:43 2013
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	UTC
References: <1f663.1d4a98db.3e28aac4@aol.com>
From: David Nock <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 10:38:46 -0800
To: Gbouff1@aol.com
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Drill a hole in the ring gear stopping before you get into the  
flywheel directly under one of the lower part of a tooth. Then fit  
the gear in the tooth over the hole with a cold chisle and the ring  
gear will snap open and come off.

The set the new ring gear on a couple of jack stands and heat it up  
with a torch until solder will melt on the side of the gear, Then  
place the gear on the flywheel with a pair of pliers.

Be sure and look which way the gear is installed the chamfered side  
of the gear goes towards the starter gear.

There is an article in our Tech Talk book showing this installation  
on page 179



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Jan 16, 2013, at 5:15 PM, Gbouff1@aol.com wrote:

> It's winter (in Connecticut), so I working on things that I can do  
> in  the
> warmth of the basement.  The ring gear on the flywheel of my 60   
> BN7  has
> about 5 inched of teeth which look a bit ragged.
>
> Has anyone out there changed their own ring rear?  If so, what  
> method  did
> you use to remove the old and replace the new ring gear.
>
> Gary Bouffard
> 60 BN7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 14:10:29 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 21:05:34 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac309mL8Zffzk1SfSAWwe5hAvYkPgw==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake cylinders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I've been immersed(?) in a project recently to upgrade my MkII's brakes.
(Seemingly immersed in brake fluid sometimes too; there's always a couple
more drips which will get you every time).

Anyhow, I've - hopefully - finished at the front and - almost - at the rear.
Had the customary battle taking those ghastly little sliding plates off the
drums' backplates and rebuilt the cylinders, replaced the plates and seals
etc. Question:- the cylinder sits in a slot which is long enough to allow it
to slide up and down. Hence the white grease to facilitate this. Both
cylinders will slide, but one needs some force to make it move. (Nothing
much, but it won't move if one simply pushes. A little tap will do it.) So,
how readily should it slide? It's not meant to slide all the time....just to
take up the slack as the shoes wear. However, I can't put the project to bed
until it's right.......

Something to think about. One spring on each side showed considerable signs
of wear in the middle. One was almost half worn away. I can't see failure
there as being too serious, but worth a thought when one's in the area?

Simon.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 14:58:48 2013
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 22:53:31 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
Organization: Hemma
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:10.0.1)
	Gecko/20120208 Thunderbird/10.0.1
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1f663.1d4a98db.3e28aac4@aol.com> <50F7E5E7.4090206@chello.nl>
	<CAB3i7LL3U6TWxvCnMHWCnxGRzgyf=7MME=4y4DwJ9czBvkEuSw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi
I have an kiln controlled by a computer. I can set it to any temperature 
I like, up to I think 1400 degrees Celsius. I seem to remember the ring 
gear should be heated to 280 degrees C, or 380. When I did this I took 
the heated gear, put it on the cold flywheel, there was a several 
millimeter gap between the gear and flywheel and it took several minutes 
for it to cool down and stick to the wheel.

Per

Michael Salter skrev 2013-01-17 17:26:
> If you want to avoid the wrath of "She who must be obeyed" may I recommend
> the barbeque for heating ones ringgear.
>
> Michael S
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 18:04:54 2013
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From: Gbouff1@aol.com
Full-name: Gbouff1
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 20:00:24 -0500 (EST)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
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All,
 
Thanks for the great advice. Looks like a job I can easily handle.  

However, against all common agreement with the list and at my own  peril, I 
will use our kitchen oven as it will heat to 550 F.  SWMBO  won't get too 
upset with only a ring gear heating in the oven.   She was much more upset a 
few years ago, when she came home earlier than I  expected and found a 
freshly painted wheel "curing" in the oven. 
 
Thanks for all of the great responses.
 
Gary Bouffard
Southington, Connecticut
60 BN7
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 20:31:32 2013
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never tried it, but would a propane or MAPP gas torch put out enough heat to expand the ring gear enough to drop on to the flywheel?
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 20:35:38 2013
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References: <50f867d6.2255420a.42b1.39b0SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 11:31:29 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear brake cylinders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hydraulic pressure on the brakes is much higher than hand pressure, I
wouldn't worry, it will slide.

On Fri, Jan 18, 2013 at 5:05 AM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I've been immersed(?) in a project recently to upgrade my MkII's brakes.
> (Seemingly immersed in brake fluid sometimes too; there's always a couple
> more drips which will get you every time).
>
> Anyhow, I've - hopefully - finished at the front and - almost - at the
> rear.
> Had the customary battle taking those ghastly little sliding plates off the
> drums' backplates and rebuilt the cylinders, replaced the plates and seals
> etc. Question:- the cylinder sits in a slot which is long enough to allow
> it
> to slide up and down. Hence the white grease to facilitate this. Both
> cylinders will slide, but one needs some force to make it move. (Nothing
> much, but it won't move if one simply pushes. A little tap will do it.) So,
> how readily should it slide? It's not meant to slide all the time....just
> to
> take up the slack as the shoes wear. However, I can't put the project to
> bed
> until it's right.......
>
> Something to think about. One spring on each side showed considerable signs
> of wear in the middle. One was almost half worn away. I can't see failure
> there as being too serious, but worth a thought when one's in the area?
>
> Simon.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 21:12:06 2013
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 21:09:43 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Healeys@autox.team.net
References: <50f867d6.2255420a.42b1.39b0SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
	<CAFBXTkJYinUwBVr=C+YnNfr9b0q_qDSPFzQyuwyntj-F94oQFg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear brake cylinders
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Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Hydraulic pressure on the brakes is much higher than hand pressure, I
> wouldn't worry, it will slide.
>
>
On the order of 800 - 1,000 psi in a proper system.

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 21:43:18 2013
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The only time I've done a ring gear was on my Sunbeam Imp. We used an oxy
ecetelyn torch to heat the gear after freezing the flywheel. I don't think
map gas will get it hot enough.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
On Jan 17, 2013 7:27 PM, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:

> never tried it, but would a propane or MAPP gas torch put out enough heat
> to expand the ring gear enough to drop on to the flywheel?
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 20:43:40 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20130118032711.32206.qmail@server278.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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With MAPP gas you would not be able to evenly heat the ring gear fast 
enough without it cooling down. BTW, true MAPP gas is no longer manufactured.

At 03:27 AM 1/18/2013 +0000, you wrote:
>never tried it, but would a propane or MAPP gas torch put out enough 
>heat to expand the ring gear enough to drop on to the flywheel?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 03:17:25 2013
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 11:12:52 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
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You will not be able to heat a ringgear evenly and at an predestined 
temperature. That is why using a household oven or other 
thermostatically controlled oven is preferable.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 18-1-2013 4:27, healeymanjim@hansencc.net schreef:
> never tried it, but would a propane or MAPP gas torch put out enough heat to expand the ring gear enough to drop on to the flywheel?
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 06:47:31 2013
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 08:42:46 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
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A good place to locate a thermostatically controlled oven is a potters
studio or a place where they fire clay pots.  Also, if you have a glass
blowing artist studio near you they can put it into the annealing oven.  If
you guys have a significant other who his involved in arts and crafts, they
would know these artists.

Regards,

Bob Begani
BJ8 Punta Gorda, Florida

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 5:13 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear

You will not be able to heat a ringgear evenly and at an predestined
temperature. That is why using a household oven or other thermostatically
controlled oven is preferable.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 18-1-2013 4:27, healeymanjim@hansencc.net schreef:
> never tried it, but would a propane or MAPP gas torch put out enough heat
to expand the ring gear enough to drop on to the flywheel?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2639/6039 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 01/17/13
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 07:41:00 2013
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2013 01:33:58 +1100
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My advice?
Never boil Diff oil on your mother's stove so you can easily slip a bearing on
your 1975 Toyota Corolla rear axle.
Oh. And don't use your Mum's best saucepan to boil the diff oil...
A lesson learnt long ago.....
Mum's now 88.... This was 33 years ago - But I reckon she is still haunted by
that rank smell of hot diff oil......
Baking plated nuts and bolts to remove hydrogen? Never an issue - even with my
ex wife.
But boiling diff oil?
Just don't go there......
Dry metal is fine. But never boil diff oil...
;-)
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 18/01/2013, at 3:26 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:

> If you want to avoid the wrath of "She who must be obeyed" may I recommend
> the barbeque for heating ones ringgear.
>
> Michael S
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 6:52 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> To remove the ring gear use a cold chisel between two teeth  to break the
>> ring. Remove all burrs and rust and clean the new gear ring and flywheel
to
>> perfection. Wait until the Missus is out for a day or two. Leave the
>> flywheel in the freezer overnight and  heat up the ring gear  to the
>> maximum in the oven for about an hour. Before you start the job make sure
>> you have all the required tools etc. at hand. Prepare some blocks on the
>> floor near the oven and lay down the cold flywheel flat on those. Remove
>> the ring gear from the oven using oven gloves and slide it on to the
>> flywheel, making sure it is in the right orientation and that it is seated
>> squarely and fully home. It will probably fall in its place straight away
>> but be prepared to use a copper faced hammer to lightly tap it home. Work
>> relaxed but be quick as the ring gear will cool down pretty fast.
>> A very simple but satisfying job.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>>
>> Op 17-1-2013 2:15, Gbouff1@aol.com schreef:
>>
>>> It's winter (in Connecticut), so I working on things that I can do in
the
>>> warmth of the basement.  The ring gear on the flywheel of my 60  BN7  has
>>> about 5 inched of teeth which look a bit ragged.
>>>  Has anyone out there changed their own ring rear?  If so, what method
>>> did
>>> you use to remove the old and replace the new ring gear.
>>>  Gary Bouffard
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <austin.healey@gmail.com>, "'Michael Salter'"
	<michaelsalter@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1f663.1d4a98db.3e28aac4@aol.com> <50F7E5E7.4090206@chello.nl>
	<CAB3i7LL3U6TWxvCnMHWCnxGRzgyf=7MME=4y4DwJ9czBvkEuSw@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 06:44:22 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Did the "heat treatment" for a VHT paint on some Harley Davidson Jugs and
Heads in my wife's oven over 20 years ago, if you want to see her get really
mad, mention it in conversation.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 08:26:44 2013
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References: <20130118032711.32206.qmail@server278.com>
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 06:46:14 -0800
To: "healeymanjim@hansencc.net" <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ring gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes we do it all the time. Takes about 5 minutes to heat it up


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 17, 2013, at 7:27 PM, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:

> never tried it, but would a propane or MAPP gas torch put out enough heat to
expand the ring gear enough to drop on to the flywheel?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 10:16:04 2013
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 09:08:03 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] relay install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.bits4brits.net/Relays.html

Has anyone installed this kit onour beloved marque?

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher and Consultant
LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
Upgrades and general troubleshooting
Portland, OR

*Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines.*

Enzo Ferrari
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 11:24:31 2013
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 18:19:33 +0000 (GMT)
From: mike brooks <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Re - Rear brake cylinders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon,

As it happens, I've just rebuilt the rear brakes on my BN2 (same set
up as yours for the rears) and with everything cleaned up, both cylinders
slide quite easily. Whilst I agree with others that they don't need to be that
free, I've had many similar rear drum/single cylinder set-ups over the years,
and in my experience, if they are not free when you rebuild them, they will
soon seize up completely.

Mike

 
Reply
to: mike.brooks@alumni.warwick.ac.uk 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 13:49:40 2013
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	Fri, 18 Jan 2013 14:44:31 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3@gmail.com>,	"'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYq4qmdYqbN9H0ygxO+nbELXzeoF0wnMBh+xtspSZ-91VA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 15:44:29 -0500
Thread-index: AQF+Unm0ban6v57CEFfxxrdbQhmZpJju08hw
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

IRA, they are moving and a note on their web site says:

"Unfortunately, this means I cannot accept new orders until I have my
workshop set up at our new home.  I expect this will be around the middle of
April."



John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 12:08 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] relay install

http://www.bits4brits.net/Relays.html

Has anyone installed this kit onour beloved marque?

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher and Consultant
LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
Upgrades and general troubleshooting
Portland, OR

*Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines.*

Enzo Ferrari
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 13:57:24 2013
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From: "Team.net" <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
To: "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>, "'I Erbs'" <eyera3@gmail.com>,
	"'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYq4qmdYqbN9H0ygxO+nbELXzeoF0wnMBh+xtspSZ-91VA@mail.gmail.com>
	<000301cdf5bc$9de527b0$d9af7710$@verizon.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 15:53:01 -0500
thread-index: AQF+Unm0ban6v57CEFfxxrdbQhmZpJju08hwgAACvOA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I did so on my MGB; nice product.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 3:44 PM
To: 'I Erbs'; 'Ahealey help'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install

IRA, they are moving and a note on their web site says:

"Unfortunately, this means I cannot accept new orders until I have my
workshop set up at our new home.  I expect this will be around the middle of
April."



John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 12:08 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] relay install

http://www.bits4brits.net/Relays.html

Has anyone installed this kit onour beloved marque?

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher and Consultant
LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
Upgrades and general troubleshooting
Portland, OR

*Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines.*

Enzo Ferrari
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 20:07:12 2013
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 19:01:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: 'John Sims' <ahbn6@verizon.net>, 'I Erbs' <eyera3@gmail.com>,
	'Ahealey help' <healeys@autox.team.net>, "Team.net"
	<lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I can't get the web site to work.
Mike MacLean

--- On Fri, 1/18/13, Team.net <lawrence.swift@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Team.net <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install
To: "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>, "'I Erbs'" <eyera3@gmail.com>,
"'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, January 18, 2013, 8:53 PM

I did so on my MGB; nice product.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 3:44 PM
To: 'I Erbs'; 'Ahealey help'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install

IRA, they are moving and a note on their web site says:

"Unfortunately, this means I cannot accept new orders until I have my
workshop set up at our new home.  I expect this will be around the middle of
April."



John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 12:08 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] relay install

http://www.bits4brits.net/Relays.html

Has anyone installed this kit onour beloved marque?

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher and Consultant
LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
Upgrades and general troubleshooting
Portland, OR

*Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines.*

Enzo Ferrari
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift@gmail.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 20:23:51 2013
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From: "John Rowe" <jkrowe46@bigpond.net.au>
To: "'Michael MacLean'" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
References: <003001cdf5bd$cedbae60$6c930b20$@com>
	<1358564515.75126.YahooMailClassic@web181104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2013 13:19:22 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac318Y1KDmaltiHrSimtgNMq4gXJcQAAfIzQ
Content-Language: en-au
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike
 I had to google for the site. Don't worry about it though as all you will
get is a home page-no links work (at least not for me)
Cheers
John Rowe  Qld Aust
Bn1 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: Saturday, 19 January 2013 1:02 PM
To: 'John Sims'; 'I Erbs'; 'Ahealey help'; Team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install

I can't get the web site to work.
Mike MacLean

--- On Fri, 1/18/13, Team.net <lawrence.swift@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Team.net <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install
To: "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>, "'I Erbs'" <eyera3@gmail.com>,
"'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, January 18, 2013, 8:53 PM

I did so on my MGB; nice product.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 3:44 PM
To: 'I Erbs'; 'Ahealey help'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install

IRA, they are moving and a note on their web site says:

"Unfortunately, this means I cannot accept new orders until I have my
workshop set up at our new home.  I expect this will be around the middle of
April."



John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 12:08 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] relay install

http://www.bits4brits.net/Relays.html

Has anyone installed this kit onour beloved marque?

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher and Consultant
LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
Upgrades and general troubleshooting
Portland, OR

*Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines.*

Enzo Ferrari
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift@gmail.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jkrowe46@bigpond.net.au
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 20:40:46 2013
Return-Path: <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net>
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	<0MGU00I1RSOEE790@vms173011.mailsrvcs.net> for healeys@autox.team.net; 
	Fri, 18 Jan 2013 21:36:15 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Michael MacLean'" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, "'I Erbs'"
	<eyera3@gmail.com>,	"'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	"'Team.net'" <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
References: <003001cdf5bd$cedbae60$6c930b20$@com>
	<1358564515.75126.YahooMailClassic@web181104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 22:36:15 -0500
Thread-index: AQFPDvXgKq4RZ8Sde8ZmtMYodmvTf5lNzY6Q
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You won't get their web site to work. See my note below. They are in the
middle of moving and have deleted links to all pages except their home page
<http://www.bits4brits.net> www.bits4brits.net

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

www.healey6.com

 

From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net] 
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 10:02 PM
To: 'John Sims'; 'I Erbs'; 'Ahealey help'; Team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install

 


I can't get the web site to work.
Mike MacLean

--- On Fri, 1/18/13, Team.net <lawrence.swift@gmail.com> wrote:


From: Team.net <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install
To: "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>, "'I Erbs'" <eyera3@gmail.com>,
"'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, January 18, 2013, 8:53 PM

I did so on my MGB; nice product.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 3:44 PM
To: 'I Erbs'; 'Ahealey help'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install

IRA, they are moving and a note on their web site says:

"Unfortunately, this means I cannot accept new orders until I have my
workshop set up at our new home.  I expect this will be around the middle of
April."



John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 12:08 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] relay install

http://www.bits4brits.net/Relays.html

Has anyone installed this kit onour beloved marque?

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher and Consultant
LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
Upgrades and general troubleshooting
Portland, OR

*Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines.*
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 23:06:36 2013
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 22:02:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: 'I Erbs' <eyera3@gmail.com>, 'Ahealey help'
	<healeys@autox.team.net>, "'Team.net'" <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>,
	John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh.

--- On Sat, 1/19/13, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

From: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] relay install
To: "'Michael MacLean'" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, "'I Erbs'"
<eyera3@gmail.com>, "'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>, "'Team.net'"
<lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
Date: Saturday, January 19, 2013, 3:36 AM

You wonbt get their web site to work. See my note below. They are in the
middle of moving and have deleted links to all pages except their home page
www.bits4brits.net B John Sims, BN6Aberdeen, NJ B www.healey6.com B From:
Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net]
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 10:02 PM
To: 'John Sims'; 'I Erbs'; 'Ahealey help'; Team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install B I can't get the web site to work.
Mike MacLean

--- On Fri, 1/18/13, Team.net <lawrence.swift@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Team.net <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install
To: "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>, "'I Erbs'" <eyera3@gmail.com>,
"'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, January 18, 2013, 8:53 PMI did so on my MGB; nice product.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 3:44 PM
To: 'I Erbs'; 'Ahealey help'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] relay install

IRA, they are moving and a note on their web site says:

"Unfortunately, this means I cannot accept new orders until I have my
workshop set up at our new home.B  I expect this will be around the middle of
April."



John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 12:08 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] relay install

http://www.bits4brits.net/Relays.html

Has anyone installed this kit onour beloved marque?

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher and Consultant
LINUX, A+ Certification, Networking,
Upgrades and general troubleshooting
Portland, OR

*Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines.*

 B 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 19 07:15:13 2013
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2013 06:09:13 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Indirect_interest_xpost=3A_Laycock_moved?=
	=?iso-8859-1?q?_to_El_Cajon=2C_CA?=
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Laycock de Normanville technology is now owned by Gear Vendors, Inc. of El Cajon, CA [source Wikipedia]:

http://www.gearvendors.com/index.html

The site has lots of interesting setups on classic cars, such as Leno's Bentley Speed Six and LaFrance fire engine.

Evidently our overdrives can be used in very high-horsepower setups such as dragsters and supercharged musclecars.

There is a lot of information about the theory and practice of over/underdrives.

No financial interest - just enthused about the site. Always happy to see somebody actually, you know, Doing Something here in California.


-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 19 11:29:33 2013
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	Sat, 19 Jan 2013 12:24:50 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2013 13:24:48 -0500
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Subject: [Healeys] Clean up time
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I found the following squirreled away that I want to part with ASAP and am
putting them here before I eBay them:

 

Set of HD6 carbs with linkages -- $300.

 

Rear exhaust manifold $20

 

6-port intake manifold $100

 

2 Tecelmet oil filter assemblies $50 each

 

Set of wood seat sliders (new) $20

 

Heater control switch $50 (New)

 

Heater Valve $20 (New)

 

Original fuse block $20

 

OD Throttle Switch $15

 

OD Relay (new) $15

 

Original parts book AKD855 $100

 

Original parts book AKD865 $100

 

Original workshop manual AKD1179a $100

 

Original workshop manual AKD 1179H covers BN4 to BJ8 $100

 

2 Original drivers manual dated February 1958 996J plus one supplement $50
each

 

All plus shipping and all used unless it says new but all in very good
shape. I will have more.

 

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

www.healey6.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 08:33:44 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Mk3 dash top questions - fitting and restoring
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Trying to redo the padded dash top,  There is a little metal angle bracket
that attaches (via split rivets)  to the plywood on each end.  Which way do
they go?  Mine the brackets were attached with the flange on top of the
plywood with the split rivet head on the metal going through the plywood with
the tangs bent underneath.  Yet a photo in the Heritage Upholstery web site
shows the bracket attached under the plywood?  Which is correct?


I do not know is mine was redone ever, but the plywood is shot and we made a
new piece.


Also what actually attaches the dash pad to the car.  I seem as only the two
screws the hold the rear-view mirror down hold it in place.  It has been so
long since the car was assembled that I am not sure anymore.  Does the front
of the pad get captured by the bottom of the windshield frame?  I am not to
that point yet.


Thanks


Jeff
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 08:50:07 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] Healey for Keeneland Concours
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I am helping the selection committee of the Keeneland Concours
http://www.keenelandconcours.com/

Looking for a Healey (Silverstone, Westland etc) for the Keeneland Concours in
July. Also early 100 or unique Healeys. This is a very nice weekend event held
at the historic Keeneland Race Track in the middle of Horse farm region in
Lexington KY.


http://www.keenelandconcours.com/


Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 08:53:31 2013
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 10:49:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Dash Top
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Jeff

I've just double-checked with my loose original dash top, and yes, the metal
brackets on the side fit over TOP of the plywood, but UNDERNEATH the foam
padding. The smooth split-rivet heads are on the top.

Not much attaches the pad to the car apart from the mirror screws and the
close fit of the windshield frame.

Don't forget the three tee-nuts fitted under the plywood to take the
lift-the-dot pegs for the tonneau cover once the piece has been trimmed.

Best regards
Peter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 10:40:10 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] re dash top
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Thanks for those who have replied thus far.  Looks like the metal angle pieces
do go on top of the plywood and under the foam.  Look at the photo on Heritage
site and they clearly show it underneath!  Wonder why they would change it?


Thank


Jeff

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DashTop.jpg]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 10:50:19 2013
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: <jjsandsms@cs.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 17:45:54 +0000
References: <8CFC54BB1A8E3C5-2178-18AE6@webmail-d082.sysops.aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] re dash top
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Not everything that Heritage does is completely like the original would be my
first guess.

Jean


> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> From: jjsandsms@cs.com
> Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 12:35:37 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] re dash top
>
> Thanks for those who have replied thus far. Looks like the metal angle
pieces
> do go on top of the plywood and under the foam. Look at the photo on
Heritage
> site and they clearly show it underneath! Wonder why they would change it?
>
>
> Thank
>
>
> Jeff
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
DashTop.jpg]
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Mk3 dash top questions - fitting and  restoring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't forget the metal tabs that are screwed to the dash top wood bow about
1-1/2 inches from either end.  They get bent under the rear of the shroud/cowl
to hold the dash top down.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: jjsandsms <jjsandsms@cs.com>

Also what actually attaches the dash pad to the car.  I seem as only the two
crews the hold the rear-view mirror down hold it in place.  It has been so
ong since the car was assembled that I am not sure anymore.  Does the front
f the pad get captured by the bottom of the windshield frame?  I am not to
hat point yet.
hanks
eff
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 11:04:29 2013
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From: "Bruce Starke" <bstarke@telus.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 10:55:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] ? NOS front fender on Vancouver Craigslist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/van/pts/3557830300.html
Hello everyone, I spoke to the fellow ( Dave Waters) who is selling this for a
friend. Can anyone tell me if this really is NOS or a later replacement
fender? It has a sticker on it saying BMC Canada along with some numbers.
Looks like it was airfreighted from Heathrow (LHR) and may be valuable to a
concours restoration
I will pass on any comments to Dave
NFI , just trying to get this to someone who needs it!
Bruce Starke
Golden BC
1962 Tricarb
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 11:11:34 2013
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 13:07:07 -0500 (EST)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1358705227;
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Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and  
there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And also, 
it  seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did not 
know.  Enjoy.
 
_http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_ 
(http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)    
Steven Kingsbury  
BN1 #598
_______________________________________________
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 13:18:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Top
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Perry's right, of course.  Forgot those little tabs. The holes are there. Next
to them, a half inch  towards the outside, are  split rivets on the vertical
face going through the wood "D" section.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <7af.664b970c.3e2d8c4b@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 10:47:03 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "ATIGHTPROD@aol.com" <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve,

The story behind the Mobil station with the Healey in it is quite
interesting.  The station itself is across from Disneyland and there is an
incredibly evocative color photo with magnificent composition that serves as
my screensaver. Here's the link to the whole story: 
http://thechicaneblog.com/2012/07/11/just-a-healey-pulling-in-for-a-fill-up/
 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From:
"ATIGHTPROD@aol.com" <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Sunday, January 20, 2013 1:07 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
 
Here's
a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and  
there's even
an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And also, 
it  seems
they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did not 
know.  Enjoy.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 11:54:43 2013
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References: <AB23937384994D85B4DECCBF63C1A3C8@BruceStarkePC>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 13:50:20 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Bruce Starke <bstarke@telus.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ? NOS front fender on Vancouver Craigslist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

4B1088 is the correct part number for a 6 cylinder left front fender so
it's probably the real deal..

Michael S


On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 12:55 PM, Bruce Starke <bstarke@telus.net> wrote:

> http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/van/pts/3557830300.html
> Hello everyone, I spoke to the fellow ( Dave Waters) who is selling this
> for a
> friend. Can anyone tell me if this really is NOS or a later replacement
> fender? It has a sticker on it saying BMC Canada along with some numbers.
> Looks like it was airfreighted from Heathrow (LHR) and may be valuable to a
> concours restoration
> I will pass on any comments to Dave
> NFI , just trying to get this to someone who needs it!
> Bruce Starke
> Golden BC
> 1962 Tricarb
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 12:09:55 2013
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 11:05:32 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: healeyguy@aol.com
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Bt 7 dash
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All thus talk about bj8 dash got me to thinking about how I line up the
holes to attach my BT7 dash to the metal cowl?

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
On Jan 20, 2013 9:47 AM, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:

> Don't forget the metal tabs that are screwed to the dash top wood bow about
> 1-1/2 inches from either end.  They get bent under the rear of the
> shroud/cowl
> to hold the dash top down.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jjsandsms <jjsandsms@cs.com>
>
> Also what actually attaches the dash pad to the car.  I seem as only the
> two
> crews the hold the rear-view mirror down hold it in place.  It has been so
> ong since the car was assembled that I am not sure anymore.  Does the front
> f the pad get captured by the bottom of the windshield frame?  I am not to
> hat point yet.
> hanks
> eff
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 12:52:50 2013
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	Sun, 20 Jan 2013 13:44:54 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <7af.664b970c.3e2d8c4b@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 14:44:53 -0500
Thread-index: AQIpQb7M3kdpAuWmHIlmRk5Vviki2ZecCYfw
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
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I remember buying gas at the Bomber station when I lived in a suburb of
Portland, OR in the late 60's. Believe it still may be there.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 1:07 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations

Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
also, it  seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did
not know.  Enjoy.
 
_http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_ 
(http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)    
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 12:54:31 2013
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>
References: <7af.664b970c.3e2d8c4b@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 11:46:46 -0800
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Cc: Healey Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks, Steve.  A lot more nostalgia than just the old cars.  We don't have 
"service" stations any more.

Mike
BN2
=========================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 10:07 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations


> Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
> there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And 
> also,
> it  seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did not
> know.  Enjoy.
>
> _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
> (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722@comcast.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 12:59:47 2013
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From: Jim McDermott <jmcd206@msn.com>
To: <ahbn6@verizon.net>, <atightprod@aol.com>, Austin_Healey Healey_Net
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 11:55:08 -0800
References: <7af.664b970c.3e2d8c4b@aol.com>,
	<004301cdf746$9ea3f8d0$dbebea70$@verizon.net>
	FILETIME=[0C9834E0:01CDF748]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The bomber is still there but the service station is gone. Jim McDermott100
Six BN4Cascade Austin Healey Club
 > From: ahbn6@verizon.net
> To: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 14:44:53 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
>
> I remember buying gas at the Bomber station when I lived in a suburb of
> Portland, OR in the late 60's. Believe it still may be there.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
>
> Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
> there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
> also, it  seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did
> not know.  Enjoy.
>
> _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
> (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmcd206@msn.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 15:29:28 2013
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References: <7af.664b970c.3e2d8c4b@aol.com>
	<004301cdf746$9ea3f8d0$dbebea70$@verizon.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 14:24:45 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It's still there. Just missing the engines. It's no longer a gas station.
But it is a landmark. Milwaukie, OR.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
On Jan 20, 2013 11:44 AM, "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

> I remember buying gas at the Bomber station when I lived in a suburb of
> Portland, OR in the late 60's. Believe it still may be there.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
>
> Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
> there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
> also, it  seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did
> not know.  Enjoy.
>
> _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
> (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 15:57:32 2013
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References: <7af.664b970c.3e2d8c4b@aol.com>
	<004301cdf746$9ea3f8d0$dbebea70$@verizon.net>
	<CACPMnYrL2yg5rYEVmGiSnigJhR4J27OnaTiKRK0VYxwC_NUC6A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 23:48:32 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for sharing theese pics.

Gergo

2013/1/20 I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>

> It's still there. Just missing the engines. It's no longer a gas station.
> But it is a landmark. Milwaukie, OR.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> On Jan 20, 2013 11:44 AM, "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> > I remember buying gas at the Bomber station when I lived in a suburb of
> > Portland, OR in the late 60's. Believe it still may be there.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> > www.healey6.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> > healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
> > Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 1:07 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
> >
> > Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
> > there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
> > also, it  seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I
> did
> > not know.  Enjoy.
> >
> > _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
> > (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
> > Steven Kingsbury
> > BN1 #598
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 19:56:00 2013
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: <ahbn6@verizon.net>, <atightprod@aol.com>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 02:51:24 +0000
References: <7af.664b970c.3e2d8c4b@aol.com>,
	<004301cdf746$9ea3f8d0$dbebea70$@verizon.net>
	FILETIME=[335A2F90:01CDF782]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just drove by the Bomber on Friday in Milwaukie,Oregon . The plane is still
there, in the same place .. about 15 feet off the ground. But, it looks real
sad now. It's now just an ugly shell of a plane. I remember when we would go
out of our way just to go to the Bomber for gas. Then it still had its engines
and  looked like a great WW II warplane. Now it's just an ugly reminder of
good times gone bye.



> From: ahbn6@verizon.net
> To: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 14:44:53 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
>
> I remember buying gas at the Bomber station when I lived in a suburb of
> Portland, OR in the late 60's. Believe it still may be there.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
>
> Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
> there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
> also, it  seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did
> not know.  Enjoy.
>
> _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
> (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 20:13:56 2013
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 22:09:21 -0500 (EST)
To: mayorrichard@hotmail.com, ahbn6@verizon.net, healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
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Sorry to hear that, but it seems to be the way things go nowadays. Just too 
 expensive to keep up I guess.
Steven
 
In a message dated 1/20/2013 6:51:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
mayorrichard@hotmail.com writes:

I just  drove by the Bomber on Friday in Milwaukie,Oregon . The plane is 
still there,  in the same place .. about 15 feet off the ground. But, it looks 
real sad now.  It's now just an ugly shell of a plane. I remember when we 
would go out of our  way just to go to the Bomber for gas. Then it still had 
its engines and   looked like a great WW II warplane. Now it's just an ugly 
reminder of good  times gone bye.  
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 21:53:51 2013
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From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'List Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:49:14 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac33kqmKQBu1tV5zRk6YJ483G6MP4Q==
Subject: [Healeys] Casting Numbers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

I am going to look at a cache of six-cylinder spares tomorrow and would like
to know the main casting numbers before I go.

 

I know the number for the early 2,912cc block is AEC 861 with AEC 960 for
the head, but I would also like to know for the BJ8 block/head and BN4 & 6
blocks/heads.

 

Can anyone assist please?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 23:49:55 2013
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From: Don Joy <britcar1@msn.com>
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, AustinHealey List
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 22:44:56 -0800
References: <2CE82AB8D14D4ADCAE35BAD740CCD32A@PatrickQuinnPC>
	FILETIME=[D363D430:01CDF7A2]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Casting Numbers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Patrick, I looked at an extra BJ8 engine that I have, 29K/RU/H2373, and the
number on the head is AEC960, while the number on the block looks like 12B766.
There is also a number towards the rear of the block that is 45 in larger
numbers.  Hope this helps. We are planning a trip to Oz and were wondering if
mid-Oct to mid-Nov is a good time to visit.  Any suggestions as to the time of
year would be appreciated. Cheers, Don JoyWashington State, USA
 > From: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:49:14 +1100
> Subject: [Healeys] Casting Numbers
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> I am going to look at a cache of six-cylinder spares tomorrow and would
like
> to know the main casting numbers before I go.
>
>
>
> I know the number for the early 2,912cc block is AEC 861 with AEC 960 for
> the head, but I would also like to know for the BJ8 block/head and BN4 & 6
> blocks/heads.
>
>
>
> Can anyone assist please?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Sydney, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 00:31:25 2013
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From: "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 17:26:48 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Hole cutting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day list

I'm currently making the dashboard for my 100 based Ausca race car. I'm using
the Alfa instruments that came from the same sedan from which I sourced the
1750 motor. The tach and speed are 130mm Veglia instruments, the oil pressure
and water temperature 50mm. I can cut the holes for the smaller gauges with a
hole saw (I'm using 1.6mm aluminium) but the holes for the bigger gauges are a
bit of a problem. I have a scroll saw, but I find the blades aren't really up
to metal. Likewise I have a jigsaw that will handle the aluminium, but the
blades are a bit wide for the arc of these holes. Anyone got any ideas for
making a neat job of this?

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
BN1 Holden V6
BN1 Ausca Alfa
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 00:47:27 2013
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	<BAY173-W488CA87CE8D3B21AE9BBC0C0170@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:42:54 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Richard -

Good news!  Actually, the motors and nose are off the plane because they
are in the process of restoring the B-17 back to flying condition:

http://www.b17wingsoffreedom.org/

http://www.b17wingsoffreedom.org/about.htm

By the way, if any of you ever want to see the B-17 my dad flew, it is in
McMinnville Oregon sitting under the Spruce Goose.  My dad was
the operational commander and flight captain on the very last US
operational mission ever flown in a B-17 (in that very B-17) in 1961.  I
used to hitch rides on it when I was a kid in the 1960s, and got to fly in
it (probably for the last time) around 2000.

Cheers,

Alan

On Mon, Jan 21, 2013 at 10:51 AM, richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>wrote:

> I just drove by the Bomber on Friday in Milwaukie,Oregon . The plane is
> still
> there, in the same place .. about 15 feet off the ground. But, it looks
> real
> sad now. It's now just an ugly shell of a plane. I remember when we would
> go
> out of our way just to go to the Bomber for gas. Then it still had its
> engines
> and  looked like a great WW II warplane. Now it's just an ugly reminder of
> good times gone bye.
>
>
>
> > From: ahbn6@verizon.net
> > To: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 14:44:53 -0500
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
> >
> > I remember buying gas at the Bomber station when I lived in a suburb of
> > Portland, OR in the late 60's. Believe it still may be there.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> > www.healey6.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
> > Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 1:07 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
> >
> > Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
> > there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
> > also, it  seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I
> did
> > not know.  Enjoy.
> >
> > _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
> > (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
> > Steven Kingsbury
> > BN1 #598
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 01:11:58 2013
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 09:06:06 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <D9E7C72BDB0F41BDAFACC9A049EA1070@Notebook>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole cutting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A jigsaw with fine teeth should be fine for the job. If you have 
difficulty with the radius, grind down the back of the blade to about 
4mm but don't let the blade heat up to much during grinding. Round of 
the edges at the rear of the blade, this will help as well.
As you are cutting aluminium use some diesel/paraffin or WD40 while 
cutting, to prevent the aluminium to clog up the saw. Move slowly at 
high saw speed but with little pressure on the blade.
Finish with a large half round file using paraffin, WD40 or chalk crayon.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 21-1-2013 8:26, Peter & Veronica schreef:
> G'day list
>
> I'm currently making the dashboard for my 100 based Ausca race car. I'm using
> the Alfa instruments that came from the same sedan from which I sourced the
> 1750 motor. The tach and speed are 130mm Veglia instruments, the oil pressure
> and water temperature 50mm. I can cut the holes for the smaller gauges with a
> hole saw (I'm using 1.6mm aluminium) but the holes for the bigger gauges are a
> bit of a problem. I have a scroll saw, but I find the blades aren't really up
> to metal. Likewise I have a jigsaw that will handle the aluminium, but the
> blades are a bit wide for the arc of these holes. Anyone got any ideas for
> making a neat job of this?
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> BN1 Holden V6
> BN1 Ausca Alfa
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2639/6045 - datum van uitgifte: 01/20/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 01:38:04 2013
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	Mon, 21 Jan 2013 19:33:18 +1100
From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Oudesluys'" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <D9E7C72BDB0F41BDAFACC9A049EA1070@Notebook>
	<50FCF6EE.2080709@chello.nl>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 19:33:13 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac33rmmAdZDP3vZ9TVaJ595CK7Ng4gAAoSVg
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole cutting
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

Good advice Kees. 

Just last week I used a jigsaw to cut a number of small diameter holes into
aluminium sheeting (a very sophisticated dolls house - don't ask) and used a
fine blade with the jigsaw set upside down in a saw table (Triton).

Using a jigsaw normally the other way around would also work quite easily
followed by a little filing with a round file. I never thought about filing
the blades or using paraffin(kero) or WD40 as a lubricant. I will next time.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Monday, 21 January 2013 7:06 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole cutting

A jigsaw with fine teeth should be fine for the job. If you have 
difficulty with the radius, grind down the back of the blade to about 
4mm but don't let the blade heat up to much during grinding. Round of 
the edges at the rear of the blade, this will help as well.
As you are cutting aluminium use some diesel/paraffin or WD40 while 
cutting, to prevent the aluminium to clog up the saw. Move slowly at 
high saw speed but with little pressure on the blade.
Finish with a large half round file using paraffin, WD40 or chalk crayon.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 21-1-2013 8:26, Peter & Veronica schreef:
> G'day list
>
> I'm currently making the dashboard for my 100 based Ausca race car. I'm
using
> the Alfa instruments that came from the same sedan from which I sourced
the
> 1750 motor. The tach and speed are 130mm Veglia instruments, the oil
pressure
> and water temperature 50mm. I can cut the holes for the smaller gauges
with a
> hole saw (I'm using 1.6mm aluminium) but the holes for the bigger gauges
are a
> bit of a problem. I have a scroll saw, but I find the blades aren't really
up
> to metal. Likewise I have a jigsaw that will handle the aluminium, but the
> blades are a bit wide for the arc of these holes. Anyone got any ideas for
> making a neat job of this?
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> BN1 Ward Spl coupe
> BN1 Holden V6
> BN1 Ausca Alfa
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
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>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2639/6045 - datum van uitgifte:
01/20/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 06:50:32 2013
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 07:44:02 -0600
From: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] . Re: Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I wish yo folks hadn't reminded me of the days when a fill-up for my Bugeye
was less than two dollars.

My favorite gas station was in the shape of a Chinese pagoda on Touhey and
Western(?) in Chicago. Naturally long gone.

Jack
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 07:05:44 2013
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From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 08:58:03 -0500
References: <CAGhWe-ehRP9KQZMAiUU1jiv539Amg_KiUqhLkC0zMCc+2KQgEQ@mail.gmail.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] . Re: Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The last U.S. quarter coin minted with silver was 1964:

 - In 1964, with that quarter, one could buy a gallon of gas
 - Today, with the silver from a 1964 quarter, one can buy a gallon of gas

Have prices gone up, or has the value of our currency gone down?

Al Malin
Tricarb


On Jan 21, 2013, at 8:44 AM, Jack Feldman wrote:

> I wish yo folks hadn't reminded me of the days when a fill-up for my Bugeye
> was less than two dollars.
> 
> My favorite gas station was in the shape of a Chinese pagoda on Touhey and
> Western(?) in Chicago. Naturally long gone.
> 
> Jack
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin@mac.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 07:21:28 2013
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 06:13:15 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac334XRATPlROKY7RbqCE6t6TyXDyw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole cutting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

By hand method: draw the holes as you want them with a compass on a piece of
paper. Glue the paper to the dash with contact cement or spray glue.

Take a small drill and drill a series of holes inside of the circles as
close together as you can get them. Maybe a 3/32" drill with 1/16" between
the holes. Take wire cutters and cut the gaps between the holes, removing
the nasty, jagged center disc which looks like a ninja throwing star.

Take a half round file or "barrel" sanding drum and file/sand the openings
outward until the instruments fit.

 

>>> 

Peter Linn wrote:


. Anyone got any ideas for
making a neat job of this?




 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 07:26:01 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000a01cdf7e1$7701c780$65055680$@com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 07:21:36 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac334XRATPlROKY7RbqCE6t6TyXDywAAOVIw
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole cutting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A jewelers saw works very well. Finish edges with the drum sander as Steve
suggested.
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Gerow
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 7:13 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole cutting

By hand method: draw the holes as you want them with a compass on a piece of
paper. Glue the paper to the dash with contact cement or spray glue.

Take a small drill and drill a series of holes inside of the circles as
close together as you can get them. Maybe a 3/32" drill with 1/16" between
the holes. Take wire cutters and cut the gaps between the holes, removing
the nasty, jagged center disc which looks like a ninja throwing star.

Take a half round file or "barrel" sanding drum and file/sand the openings
outward until the instruments fit.

 

>>> 

Peter Linn wrote:


. Anyone got any ideas for
making a neat job of this?




 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 07:36:31 2013
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	<63E80B9C-2A0C-4655-9922-11DE37C5E2E8@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 22:27:45 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
Cc: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] . Re: Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

the latter.  Also, was it 35 dollars bought an ounce of gold?

On Mon, Jan 21, 2013 at 9:58 PM, Al Malin <amalin@mac.com> wrote:

> The last U.S. quarter coin minted with silver was 1964:
>
>  - In 1964, with that quarter, one could buy a gallon of gas
>  - Today, with the silver from a 1964 quarter, one can buy a gallon of gas
>
> Have prices gone up, or has the value of our currency gone down?
>
> Al Malin
> Tricarb
>
>
> On Jan 21, 2013, at 8:44 AM, Jack Feldman wrote:
>
> > I wish yo folks hadn't reminded me of the days when a fill-up for my
> Bugeye
> > was less than two dollars.
> >
> > My favorite gas station was in the shape of a Chinese pagoda on Touhey
> and
> > Western(?) in Chicago. Naturally long gone.
> >
> > Jack
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin@mac.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 08:43:49 2013
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	<004301cdf746$9ea3f8d0$dbebea70$@verizon.net>
	<BAY173-W488CA87CE8D3B21AE9BBC0C0170@phx.gbl>
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 07:39:10 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks
Good to know the plane looks so sad in it's current state. I drive by it
regularly. I'll need to stop by the museum.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
On Jan 20, 2013 11:42 PM, "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> Richard -
>
> Good news!  Actually, the motors and nose are off the plane because they
> are in the process of restoring the B-17 back to flying condition:
>
> http://www.b17wingsoffreedom.org/
>
> http://www.b17wingsoffreedom.org/about.htm
>
> By the way, if any of you ever want to see the B-17 my dad flew, it is in
> McMinnville Oregon sitting under the Spruce Goose.  My dad was
> the operational commander and flight captain on the very last US
> operational mission ever flown in a B-17 (in that very B-17) in 1961.  I
> used to hitch rides on it when I was a kid in the 1960s, and got to fly in
> it (probably for the last time) around 2000.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Mon, Jan 21, 2013 at 10:51 AM, richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com
> >wrote:
>
> > I just drove by the Bomber on Friday in Milwaukie,Oregon . The plane is
> > still
> > there, in the same place .. about 15 feet off the ground. But, it looks
> > real
> > sad now. It's now just an ugly shell of a plane. I remember when we would
> > go
> > out of our way just to go to the Bomber for gas. Then it still had its
> > engines
> > and  looked like a great WW II warplane. Now it's just an ugly reminder
> of
> > good times gone bye.
> >
> >
> >
> > > From: ahbn6@verizon.net
> > > To: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 14:44:53 -0500
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
> > >
> > > I remember buying gas at the Bomber station when I lived in a suburb of
> > > Portland, OR in the late 60's. Believe it still may be there.
> > >
> > > John Sims, BN6
> > > Aberdeen, NJ
> > >
> > > www.healey6.com
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> > > On Behalf Of ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
> > > Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 1:07 PM
> > > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
> > >
> > > Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
> > > there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
> > > also, it  seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I
> > did
> > > not know.  Enjoy.
> > >
> > > _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
> > > (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
> > > Steven Kingsbury
> > > BN1 #598
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 08:46:12 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "atightprod@aol.com" <atightprod@aol.com>, "healeys @autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 10:41:46 -0500
References: <7af.664b970c.3e2d8c4b@aol.com>
	FILETIME=[D1E359A0:01CDF7ED]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Notice that picture Number 14 seems to be hoping to be a Tucker dealership.
Can anyone confirm?
-Dave Murphy, SEMAHC
Dearborm MI
'66 BJ8



> From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
> Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 13:07:07 -0500
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
>
> Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
> there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
also,
> it seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did not
> know. Enjoy.
>
> _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
> (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roadwarriordave@hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 09:59:58 2013
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From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net>
To: <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 08:55:52 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Need a project car
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey group,
I have a friend that needs a new project.  He is looking for a Healey and has
restored them previously.  He lives in Northern California so if you see
something , send me a note and I will pass it on.  He is not computer savvy.
He is looking for something to work on so does not want a finished project.
His previous Healeys have all been 6 cylinder, but he would consider anything.

thanks

Jerry
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 11:07:17 2013
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 10:02:23 -0800
To: "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <000a01cdf7e1$7701c780$65055680$@com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole cutting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Peter,

The method below works well. However, you can use a larger drill bit, 
say 3/16" if you move the bit center point an appropriate distance 
away from the desired finished inside diameter. After drilling a 
series of 3/16" holes, change the bit to a 1/4" bit and carefully 
re-drill the holes. This will do most of the cutting and you will 
then need to file. I just made the large steel lock washer on the 
front of the transmission bearing using this method.

John

At 06:13 AM 1/21/2013 -0800, Steve Gerow wrote:
>By hand method: draw the holes as you want them with a compass on a piece of
>paper. Glue the paper to the dash with contact cement or spray glue.
>
>Take a small drill and drill a series of holes inside of the circles as
>close together as you can get them. Maybe a 3/32" drill with 1/16" between
>the holes. Take wire cutters and cut the gaps between the holes, removing
>the nasty, jagged center disc which looks like a ninja throwing star.
>
>Take a half round file or "barrel" sanding drum and file/sand the openings
>outward until the instruments fit.
>
>  >>>
>
>Peter Linn wrote:
>
>. Anyone got any ideas for
>making a neat job of this?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 18:10:50 2013
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 11:04:56 +1000
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Thanks for your responses - I think I'll try the pared down jigsaw blade 
first. Incidentally Patrick - I bought the jigsaw when commissioned to make 
a dolls house for my grand-daughter!

Cheers

Peter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 18:56:44 2013
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 01:48:31 +0000
	FILETIME=[94C2B250:01CDF842]
Subject: [Healeys] Early BN4 cylinder head
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A while back, someone on the list was looking for an early style BN4 cylinder
head with the cast-in intake manifold. I just acquired one as part of a larger
purchase and I am ready to sell it.

Richard Mayor, Portland, Oregon
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 19:10:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: roadwarriordave@hotmail.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That photo is interesting to me also. I have a strong feeling that it's the corner of 17th st and 6th ave. as I remember there is, but probably 'was', a little round front gas station converted to convenience store there. Once upon a time there was a row of auto dealers on 6th ave between 14th st and 23rd st. The address at bottom of photo is hard to read but I think it says "582-590 Sixth ave". I'll check it out soon.
  The corn gas station also looks like NYC and my gut feeling is that it was on 10th ave. The background buildings are key to figuring this out.
These little stations used to be all over the place in NYC but mostly all gone now with some surviving by being converted for other use.
I can think of 2 small pagoda style stations that have been preserved on 7th ave south but are fenced off for private use. I had heard that there was a historical/zoning clause that prevented them from being torn down.
Now, if I could get at least one of my Healeys on the road these old stations would be great background subjects for a photo shoot.
Best
JK
NYC





------------------------------
On Mon, Jan 21, 2013 10:41 AM EST Dave Murphy wrote:

>Notice that picture Number 14 seems to be hoping to be a Tucker dealership.
>Can anyone confirm?
>-Dave Murphy, SEMAHC
>Dearborm MI
>'66 BJ8
>
>
>
>> From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
>> Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 13:07:07 -0500
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
>>
>> Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
>> there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
>also,
>> it seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did not
>> know. Enjoy.
>>
>> _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
>> (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
>> Steven Kingsbury
>> BN1 #598
>> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 19:12:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: roadwarriordave@hotmail.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That photo is interesting to me also. I have a strong feeling that it's the corner of 17th st and 6th ave. as I remember there is, but probably 'was', a little round front gas station converted to convenience store there. Once upon a time there was a row of auto dealers on 6th ave between 14th st and 23rd st. The address at bottom of photo is hard to read but I think it says "582-590 Sixth ave". I'll check it out soon.
  The corn gas station also looks like NYC and my gut feeling is that it was on 10th ave. The background buildings are key to figuring this out.
These little stations used to be all over the place in NYC but mostly all gone now with some surviving by being converted for other use.
I can think of 2 small pagoda style stations that have been preserved on 7th ave south but are fenced off for private use. I had heard that there was a historical/zoning clause that prevented them from being torn down.
Now, if I could get at least one of my Healeys on the road these old stations would be great background subjects for a photo shoot.
Best
JK
NYC





------------------------------
On Mon, Jan 21, 2013 10:41 AM EST Dave Murphy wrote:

>Notice that picture Number 14 seems to be hoping to be a Tucker dealership.
>Can anyone confirm?
>-Dave Murphy, SEMAHC
>Dearborm MI
>'66 BJ8
>
>
>
>> From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
>> Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 13:07:07 -0500
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
>>
>> Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
>> there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
>also,
>> it seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did not
>> know. Enjoy.
>>
>> _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
>> (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
>> Steven Kingsbury
>> BN1 #598
>> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 20:54:49 2013
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	<SNT133-W5B91CC290F8F13346CC1EA3170@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 10:25:46 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
Cc: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The picture is dated 1948, so the timing is correct.  It would have only
been that year that you would have seen a sign like this.

On Mon, Jan 21, 2013 at 11:41 PM, Dave Murphy
<roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>wrote:

> Notice that picture Number 14 seems to be hoping to be a Tucker dealership.
> Can anyone confirm?
> -Dave Murphy, SEMAHC
> Dearborm MI
> '66 BJ8
>
>
>
> > From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
> > Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 13:07:07 -0500
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
> >
> > Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
> > there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
> also,
> > it seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did not
> > know. Enjoy.
> >
> > _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
> > (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
> > Steven Kingsbury
> > BN1 #598
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roadwarriordave@hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 21:06:48 2013
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	<CAFBXTk+b6Ca-14tjCq-5GykeocEk0n0EXw0pE_M7a45M7szTtA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 20:02:11 -0800
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys
  @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The Casa de Petrol was located in Sherman Oaks California next door to Casa
de Cadillac (Which is still there)  CdP was torn down sometime in the
70-80s to build another Casa de car dealership.


On Mon, Jan 21, 2013 at 6:25 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> The picture is dated 1948, so the timing is correct.  It would have only
> been that year that you would have seen a sign like this.
>
> On Mon, Jan 21, 2013 at 11:41 PM, Dave Murphy
> <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>wrote:
>
> > Notice that picture Number 14 seems to be hoping to be a Tucker
> dealership.
> > Can anyone confirm?
> > -Dave Murphy, SEMAHC
> > Dearborm MI
> > '66 BJ8
> >
> >
> >
> > > From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
> > > Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 13:07:07 -0500
> > > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
> > >
> > > Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
> > > there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
> > also,
> > > it seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did not
> > > know. Enjoy.
> > >
> > > _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
> > > (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
> > > Steven Kingsbury
> > > BN1 #598
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roadwarriordave@hotmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 09:51:47 2013
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From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net>
To: <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <D8CA409433A44430B371B3DFDB2E3776@JerryPC>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 08:47:33 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need a project car
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

List,

I received about 10 cars for sale which I have forwarded to my friend Dave. 
He will contact those cars which interest him.  Great response, thank you 
for your time.

Jerry

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jerry Costanzo
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:55 AM
To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] Need a project car

Hey group,
I have a friend that needs a new project.  He is looking for a Healey and 
has
restored them previously.  He lives in Northern California so if you see
something , send me a note and I will pass it on.  He is not computer savvy.
He is looking for something to work on so does not want a finished project.
His previous Healeys have all been 6 cylinder, but he would consider 
anything.

thanks

Jerry 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 13:36:00 2013
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 12:26:31 -0800
	FILETIME=[C3EF7210:01CDF8DE]
Subject: [Healeys] J B's whire wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone know if J B's Wire Wheels is still around in Santa Cruz, CA? He did
some work for me 10 years ago. I need some information from him.
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 14:28:55 2013
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 21:24:17 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1358889857;
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] J B's whire wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Rich, 

John did some mounting and repair work for me last spring. He was recovering from an industrial injury but thinking about reviving his business (he was working out of his garage last I saw him). 

Here is the number I have for him: 831.465.0617 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey@hotmail.com> 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 12:26:31 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] J B's whire wheels 

Anyone know if J B's Wire Wheels is still around in Santa Cruz, CA? He did 
some work for me 10 years ago. I need some information from him. 
Rich Kahn 
_______________________________________________
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 16:56:58 2013
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 15:50:52 -0800
References: <COL121-W4B5290DD0ABA8F1274670A4160@phx.gbl>,
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Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] J B's whire wheels
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That is the same as he told me 9 years ago when he did mine. I cannot reach
him at his number, only a tape with no name on it. A web search gave no
information.
Thanks,
Rich

Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 21:24:17 +0000
From: bspidell@comcast.net
To: tahoehealey@hotmail.com
CC: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] J B's whire wheels

Rich,

John did some mounting and repair work for me last spring.  He
was recovering from an industrial injury but thinking about reviving his
 business (he was working out of his garage last I saw him).

Here is the number I have for him:  831.465.0617

Bob

--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

From: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 12:26:31 PM
Subject: [Healeys] J B's whire wheels

Anyone know if J B's Wire Wheels is still around in Santa Cruz, CA? He did
some work for me 10 years ago. I need some information from him.
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 17:27:15 2013
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 19:18:01 -0500
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
To: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Wonderful old photographs.  I love the art deco styling in those old
service stations.

- Tom

On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 1:07 PM, <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com> wrote:

> Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
> there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
> also,
> it  seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did not
> know.  Enjoy.
>
> _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
> (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 18:04:32 2013
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 16:59:41 -0800
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Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] J B's whire wheels
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John called me back and is still working. Thanks.

Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 21:24:17 +0000
From: bspidell@comcast.net
To: tahoehealey@hotmail.com
CC: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] J B's whire wheels

Rich,

John did some mounting and repair work for me last spring.  He
was recovering from an industrial injury but thinking about reviving his
 business (he was working out of his garage last I saw him).

Here is the number I have for him:  831.465.0617

Bob

--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

From: "Richard Kahn" <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 12:26:31 PM
Subject: [Healeys] J B's whire wheels

Anyone know if J B's Wire Wheels is still around in Santa Cruz, CA? He did
some work for me 10 years ago. I need some information from him.
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 19:05:09 2013
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys]  Old Gas Stations
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Folks in the Seattle area will remember the cowboy station on First Avenue. 
The station itself was a giant ten-gallon hat, and the restrooms were housed 
in a pair of equally giant cowboy boots.  It sat idle for many, many years, 
and was finally relocated to a small park in the Georgetown area (Oxbow 
Park).  The whole thing was rather kitschy, but somewhat typical of the 
quest for customers back in the '50's.  For more info, see:

http://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/2235 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 19:15:37 2013
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 02:10:55 +0000
	FILETIME=[E0C61A30:01CDF90E]
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque  -
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

List:
Has anyone received the January 2013 Healey Marque and the 2013 Calendar and
if so when?
None in our Club here in Manitoba have received theirs, so before I contact
anyone in the AHCA, I'd like to find out from others.

Jean Caron
Winnipeg
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 19:38:40 2013
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 21:34:05 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>, 
	healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Marque  -
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have the calendar---not the Marque.


---- Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com> wrote: 

=============
List:
Has anyone received the January 2013 Healey Marque and the 2013 Calendar and
if so when?
None in our Club here in Manitoba have received theirs, so before I contact
anyone in the AHCA, I'd like to find out from others.

Jean Caron
Winnipeg
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 20:31:48 2013
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 19:22:17 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Jute underlayment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a Heritage interior kit for my BT7. It came with the jute 
underlayment but it is very thick. The jute is supposed to be 
installed under the seat tracks and under the wood filler and metal 
strip that goes over the tar paper or whatever material people use in 
lieu of the tar paper.

Are people installing the jute as described?

Are people cutting slots in the jute like the carpet is slotted for 
the seat runners?

Are thicker wood strips needed? Mine are 5/16" thick?

Many thanks for any guidance provided.

John Spaur
San Jose, CA
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 23:10:34 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 07:05:33 +0100
To: "Jean Caron" <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>,
	Healeys@autox.team.net
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Healey_Marque__-?=
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Jean, 

	I also have not received November 2012  Healey Marque and Calender,
but living in Germany. Also not received January 2013 so far. I asked
the Membership Director "Mike Membership Director AHCA mjsbn2@att.net
[1]" to send me a copy. So I hope I will have them soon.   Josef
Eckert Konigswinter/Germany  

 Von: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
An: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Betreff: [Healeys] Healey Marque -
Datum: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 03:10:55 +0100

 List:
Has anyone received the January 2013 Healey Marque and the 2013
Calendar and
if so when?
None in our Club here in Manitoba have received theirs, so before I
contact
anyone in the AHCA, I'd like to find out from others.

Jean Caron
Winnipeg

Links:
------
[1]
javascript:parent..NGCS.showWriteMail({&quot;recipientsStringTo&quot;:&quot;mjsbn2@att.net&quot;})
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 23:20:38 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 07:15:34 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <7af.664b970c.3e2d8c4b@aol.com>
	<CANQM1PKCGOAa8gMgQd64Lq22Pjg0YGMmNoA3b1rFtSzDmh9faw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
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Well, who is complaining about modern petrol/gasoline containing 
alcohol. I saw several pictires  that said 10% corn ethanol, ethyl. So 
nothing new under the sun.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 23-1-2013 1:18, Tom schreef:
> Wonderful old photographs.  I love the art deco styling in those old
> service stations.
>
> - Tom
>
> On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 1:07 PM, <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Here's a link to some old gas station photos. Kinda fun to look at and
>> there's even an Austin-Healey in the background of the third photo. And
>> also,
>> it  seems they were even adding corn to the fuel in 1933, that I did not
>> know.  Enjoy.
>>
>> _http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html_
>> (http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html)
>> Steven Kingsbury
>> BN1 #598
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.2890 / Virusdatabase: 2639/6049 - datum van uitgifte: 01/21/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 06:49:56 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:44:51 -0000
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Subject: [Healeys] Spark plugs
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I have a 3000 MkII with a Denis Welch cam & 123Ignition.

Does my car take the same plugs as a BJ8, the plugs from which I have been
offered?

Thanks,

Simon.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 06:53:27 2013
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References: <001201cdf96f$d1a99390$74fcbab0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
From: Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 08:47:47 -0500
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: "<Healeys@autox.team.net>" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark plugs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Call dennis welch and ask !

Sent from my iPad

On 23/01/2013, at 8:44 a.m., "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:

> I have a 3000 MkII with a Denis Welch cam & 123Ignition.
>
> Does my car take the same plugs as a BJ8, the plugs from which I have been
> offered?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 06:55:08 2013
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From: Richard Korn <cynicbass@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:55:02 +0000
To: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Marque  -
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I got my january Healey Marque yesterday (Iceland) but not the calender. Never
got nov. or dec. but I think I forgot to renew my subscription. Which makes me
wonder why I got January??

Richard

Sent from Ricky's iPad

On Jan 23, 2013, at 2:10, Jean Caron
<vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com> wrote:

> List:
> Has anyone received the January 2013 Healey Marque and the 2013 Calendar
and
> if so when?
> None in our Club here in Manitoba have received theirs, so before I contact
> anyone in the AHCA, I'd like to find out from others.
>
> Jean Caron
> Winnipeg
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 07:08:23 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 14:03:36 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac35cm6VvT2heoZIRC+0Stqnz8H6Sw==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Heater hoses
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

Talking about a 3000, MkII....Can one just buy a length of = hose and use
it to replace the two standard heater hoses? I see that one supplier offers
hose by the foot for the hose that comes out of the block.

I thought of buying some black silicone pipe and replacing both.

(Im beginning various swaps/upgrades/replacements before taking the car on
a long trip).

Thanks,

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 07:24:48 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 06:19:32 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
	Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <001701cdf972$702f52f0$508df8d0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
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Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater hoses
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the original hose might have been molded--or have an internal 'spring'--where it makes the 90deg bends into the 
heater.  These days, I think all the suppliers--I may be wrong--just sell 'generic' heater hose by the foot.  IIRC, it's 
3/8" ID hose.  If you make the bend radius as large as possible, it works fine.

Bob



On 1/23/2013 6:03 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Talking about a 3000, MkII....Can one just buy a length of = hose and use
> it to replace the two standard heater hoses? I see that one supplier offers
> hose by the foot for the hose that comes out of the block.
>
> I thought of buying some black silicone pipe and replacing both.
>
> (Im beginning various swaps/upgrades/replacements before taking the car on
> a long trip).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 08:06:42 2013
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From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'Simon Lachlan' <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>,
	"Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] Heater hoses
Thread-Index: Ac35cm6VvT2heoZIRC+0Stqnz8H6SwACASHQ
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 15:01:52 +0000
References: <001701cdf972$702f52f0$508df8d0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
x-originating-ip: [10.97.32.139]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater hoses
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The only hose that I have found that will properly fit the firewall grommets
and have the 90 degree bend is sold by David Nock.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 6:04 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Heater hoses

Hi,

Talking about a 3000, MkII....Can one just buy a length of = hose and use
it to replace the two standard heater hoses? I see that one supplier offers
hose by the foot for the hose that comes out of the block.

I thought of buying some black silicone pipe and replacing both.

(Im beginning various swaps/upgrades/replacements before taking the car on
a long trip).

Thanks,

Simon
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kendall.freese@aerojet.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 08:18:23 2013
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From: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
To: "Richard Korn" <cynicbass@gmail.com>, "Jean Caron"
	<vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
References: <BLU173-W20A924B8B53B68EA9CEAD2D1150@phx.gbl>
	<BB1FBF06-0998-4BB2-9710-0407EE77E424@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 10:09:29 -0500
	FILETIME=[A80DC220:01CDF97B]
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Marque  -
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You can get your membership and Healey Marque questions answered by contacting
Mike Schneider at membership@healeyclub.org .  This contact info can also be
found page 4 of each issue of the Healey Marque (right across from my
column!).
I can tell you that the January issue was a bit delayed but the calendar went
out long ago.  When we follow-up on missing issues, it is almost always
traceable to onebs local post office...either equipment failures or sports
car enthusiastic mail delivery staff!
GaryB



-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Korn
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 8:55 AM
To: Jean Caron
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Marque -

I got my january Healey Marque yesterday (Iceland) but not the calender.
Never
got nov. or dec. but I think I forgot to renew my subscription. Which makes
me
wonder why I got January??

Richard

Sent from Ricky's iPad

On Jan 23, 2013, at 2:10, Jean Caron
<vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com> wrote:

> List:
> Has anyone received the January 2013 Healey Marque and the 2013 Calendar
and
> if so when?
> None in our Club here in Manitoba have received theirs, so before I contact
> anyone in the AHCA, I'd like to find out from others.
>
> Jean Caron
> Winnipeg
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 08:30:33 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 16:21:58 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
Organization: Hemma
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <001701cdf972$702f52f0$508df8d0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	<50FFF174.4000002@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater hoses
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon
Inner diameter should be 1/2 inch. At the time I replaced mine I could 
only find 13 mm ID. They were a little difficult to get through the 
firewall grommets, but with a little patient, and some soap, it worked.

Per

Bob Spidell skrev 2013-01-23 15:19:
> IRC, it's 3/8" ID hose.  If you make the bend radius as l
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 09:10:29 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 10:05:25 -0600
From: "E.A. Driver" <edriver@sasktel.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <BLU173-W20A924B8B53B68EA9CEAD2D1150@phx.gbl>
	<BB1FBF06-0998-4BB2-9710-0407EE77E424@gmail.com>
	<BLU166-ds9242C31599C8A9957BFF0B3150@phx.gbl>
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	reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Marque  -
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary
How would that explain more than five individuals and I suspect all in AHCM
did not receive either the November 2012 issue and the 2013 Calendar.
Although the membership is primarily centred in Winnipeg, there are
members like myself who live in other provinces (Alberta, Ontario
and two of us in Saskatchewan).
Regards
Ed

E.A. Driver
Historian, AHCUSA


On 23/01/2013 9:09 AM, Gary R. Brierton wrote:
> You can get your membership and Healey Marque questions answered by contacting
> Mike Schneider at membership@healeyclub.org .  This contact info can also be
> found page 4 of each issue of the Healey Marque (right across from my
> column!).
> I can tell you that the January issue was a bit delayed but the calendar went
> out long ago.  When we follow-up on missing issues, it is almost always
> traceable to onebs local post office...either equipment failures or sports
> car enthusiastic mail delivery staff!
> GaryB
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 09:37:53 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 16:33:03 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater hoses
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My bad. I know the breather hoses are larger ID than the heater hoses (the breather hoses are 5/8", heater would be 1/2") . 

Three-eighths hose would make our heaters even more anemic. 

bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Per Schoerner" <healeyguy@bredband.net> 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 7:21:58 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater hoses 

Simon 
Inner diameter should be 1/2 inch. At the time I replaced mine I could 
only find 13 mm ID. They were a little difficult to get through the 
firewall grommets, but with a little patient, and some soap, it worked. 

Per 

Bob Spidell skrev 2013-01-23 15:19: 
> IRC, it's 3/8" ID hose. If you make the bend radius as l 
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130122191736.0205cfa8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 08:46:55 -0800
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jute underlayment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The Jute is original but not really a good heat insulator. If you are  
looking to block as much heat as you can I would recomend using  
Dynamat on the entire  floor first rather than the tar paper. Include  
covering the transmission tunnel and vertical panel on both sides as  
well as behind the front kick panels especialy on the drivers side.  
Then use Dynaliner on the floor in front of the seats and foot box  
area. There really is no need to install any insulation under the  
seats it will interfere with the seat tracks.

I now have put on my fire suit because there are probably 1000  
different opinions about this.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Jan 22, 2013, at 7:22 PM, john spaur wrote:

> I have a Heritage interior kit for my BT7. It came with the jute  
> underlayment but it is very thick. The jute is supposed to be  
> installed under the seat tracks and under the wood filler and metal  
> strip that goes over the tar paper or whatever material people use  
> in lieu of the tar paper.
>
> Are people installing the jute as described?
>
> Are people cutting slots in the jute like the carpet is slotted for  
> the seat runners?
>
> Are thicker wood strips needed? Mine are 5/16" thick?
>
> Many thanks for any guidance provided.
>
> John Spaur
> San Jose, CA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 09:54:36 2013
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References: <001701cdf972$702f52f0$508df8d0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 08:49:48 -0800
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater hoses
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If you use standard straight 1/2 heater hose the hose that comes  off
the right side of the heater box will kink due to the space between
the heater and the shroud.

We have a pre formed 1/2 heater hose that fits and will not rub on
the shroud.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Jan 23, 2013, at 6:03 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Talking about a 3000, MkII....Can one just buy a length of = hose
> and use
> it to replace the two standard heater hoses? I see that one
> supplier offers
> hose by the foot for the hose that comes out of the block.
>
> I thought of buying some black silicone pipe and replacing both.
>
> (Im beginning various swaps/upgrades/replacements before taking
> the car on
> a long trip).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130122191736.0205cfa8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<B45740F3-F59D-4645-9115-827AD7AB4E88@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 18:26:05 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jute underlayment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John

I not sure that concours guidelines have the jute under the seat rails.
Heritage also supply their carpets without the cut outs for the rails but I
believe this is so that each owner can cut the materials to suit the exact
position of the rails in their particular car.

Derek


On Wed, Jan 23, 2013 at 4:46 PM, David Nock British Car Specialists <
healeydoc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> The Jute is original but not really a good heat insulator. If you are
> looking to block as much heat as you can I would recomend using
> Dynamat on the entire  floor first rather than the tar paper. Include
> covering the transmission tunnel and vertical panel on both sides as
> well as behind the front kick panels especialy on the drivers side.
> Then use Dynaliner on the floor in front of the seats and foot box
> area. There really is no need to install any insulation under the
> seats it will interfere with the seat tracks.
>
> I now have put on my fire suit because there are probably 1000
> different opinions about this.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
>         Enjoy
> www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
> .
> .
>
> On Jan 22, 2013, at 7:22 PM, john spaur wrote:
>
> > I have a Heritage interior kit for my BT7. It came with the jute
> > underlayment but it is very thick. The jute is supposed to be
> > installed under the seat tracks and under the wood filler and metal
> > strip that goes over the tar paper or whatever material people use
> > in lieu of the tar paper.
> >
> > Are people installing the jute as described?
> >
> > Are people cutting slots in the jute like the carpet is slotted for
> > the seat runners?
> >
> > Are thicker wood strips needed? Mine are 5/16" thick?
> >
> > Many thanks for any guidance provided.
> >
> > John Spaur
> > San Jose, CA
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
> > healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 11:53:36 2013
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 05:34:16 +1100
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
	Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130122191736.0205cfa8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<B45740F3-F59D-4645-9115-827AD7AB4E88@sbcglobal.net>
	more information
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jute underlayment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi David, not a flame, just my experience with Dynamat. I used it on my 
V8 powered Vanguard ute extensively. The small cabin has tremendous heat 
build up, and it is really no better with the Dynamat. I found it was 
great for noise insulation, which reduced dramatically, however the 
floors above the mufflers got just as hot as before installing it. It is 
an excellent product to use, it bonds and forms well over the steel, but 
for heat insulation it would need to be on the outside of the car rather 
than the inside, in my opinion.
Cheers
Larry

On 24/01/2013 3:46 AM, David Nock British Car Specialists wrote:
> The Jute is original but not really a good heat insulator. If you are
> looking to block as much heat as you can I would recomend using
> Dynamat on the entire  floor first rather than the tar paper. Include
> covering the transmission tunnel and vertical panel on both sides as
> well as behind the front kick panels especialy on the drivers side.
> Then use Dynaliner on the floor in front of the seats and foot box
> area. There really is no need to install any insulation under the
> seats it will interfere with the seat tracks.
>
> I now have put on my fire suit because there are probably 1000
> different opinions about this.
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> Stockton Ca 95205
> 209-948-8767
>
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
> 	Enjoy	
> www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
> .
> .
>
> On Jan 22, 2013, at 7:22 PM, john spaur wrote:
>
>> I have a Heritage interior kit for my BT7. It came with the jute
>> underlayment but it is very thick. The jute is supposed to be
>> installed under the seat tracks and under the wood filler and metal
>> strip that goes over the tar paper or whatever material people use
>> in lieu of the tar paper.
>>
>> Are people installing the jute as described?
>>
>> Are people cutting slots in the jute like the carpet is slotted for
>> the seat runners?
>>
>> Are thicker wood strips needed? Mine are 5/16" thick?
>>
>> Many thanks for any guidance provided.
>>
>> John Spaur
>> San Jose, CA
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
>> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley@cosmos.net.au
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2890 / Virus Database: 2639/6051 - Release Date: 01/22/13
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 11:05:12 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Seat back material
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

When I took apart the seat back there was a fiber mat material used 
to pad the back of the seat. It appeared to be original. There might 
be similar products available. I also saw sheet neoprene that might work.

What material is recommended to replace the fiber mat?

Thank you,
John Spaur
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 12:49:16 2013
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 14:44:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Seat back material
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

The "fiber mat material" was 1/8" brown industrial felt on the roadster seats,
changing to 1/8" foam sheet on the BJ 8. It was also used on wheelarches,
etc.

Both these materials offer quite a bit of friction when pulling on a tight set
of covers, so a dose of silicone spray in addition to the normal plastic dry
cleaning bag might help when using the thin foam, which you can still find..

Trim shops or suppliers stock a smooth felt-like 1/8" insulation used in
headliners, or I think you might still get the spongy white landau padding
used on vinyl roofs. The 1/8"landau padding is especially smooth and makes for
a nice pull.

Peter
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 15:16:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Seat back material
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John

Yes, the tape was quite important in that it was attached to the foam, and you
pulled the oversized foam edge over and around the pan wire quite tightly so
that the stretched foam formed a thin smooth padded edge. The tape was glued
to the metal seat back and the thin felt or foam back panel smoothed over the
inevitable tape wrinkles.

Peter
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 12:32:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seat back material
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I used 'bamboo batting' which is used for making quilts and is available from
sewing/fabric shops. Cotton and polyester battings are cheaper. Bamboo was the
closest thing I could find to replace the original material and it is not
grippy like synthetic materials so the cover is easy to get on and off... on
and off... on and off... Getting the seat back covers to sit and look right is
a very time consuming task.

--- On Thu, 24/1/13, john spaur
<jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>
Subject: [Healeys] Seat back material
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Received:
Thursday, 24 January, 2013, 8:05 AM
> When I took apart the seat back there
>
was a fiber mat material used to pad the back of the seat.
> It appeared to be
original. There might be similar products
> available. I also saw sheet
neoprene that might work.
> 
> What material is recommended to replace the
fiber mat?
> 
> Thank you,
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
>
Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bce257@yahoo.co.nz
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130123105750.020530b8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 12:41:06 -0800
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Seat back material
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John, we have these in stock/



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Jan 23, 2013, at 11:05 AM, john spaur wrote:

> When I took apart the seat back there was a fiber mat material used  
> to pad the back of the seat. It appeared to be original. There  
> might be similar products available. I also saw sheet neoprene that  
> might work.
>
> What material is recommended to replace the fiber mat?
>
> Thank you,
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 14:50:13 2013
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130122191736.0205cfa8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<B45740F3-F59D-4645-9115-827AD7AB4E88@sbcglobal.net>
	<51002D28.6020705@cosmos.net.au>
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 16:44:47 -0500
To: "varley@cosmos.net.au" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jute underlayment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Larry

When I installed dynamat in my 100 I sandwiched both the floor under the
driver's seat and the transmission tunnel with creating a very effective heat
barrier.

Best--Michael oritt

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 23, 2013, at 1:34 PM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> Hi David, not a flame, just my experience with Dynamat. I used it on my V8
powered Vanguard ute extensively. The small cabin has tremendous heat build
up, and it is really no better with the Dynamat. I found it was great for
noise insulation, which reduced dramatically, however the floors above the
mufflers got just as hot as before installing it. It is an excellent product
to use, it bonds and forms well over the steel, but for heat insulation it
would need to be on the outside of the car rather than the inside, in my
opinion.
> Cheers
> Larry
>
> On 24/01/2013 3:46 AM, David Nock British Car Specialists wrote:
>> The Jute is original but not really a good heat insulator. If you are
>> looking to block as much heat as you can I would recomend using
>> Dynamat on the entire  floor first rather than the tar paper. Include
>> covering the transmission tunnel and vertical panel on both sides as
>> well as behind the front kick panels especialy on the drivers side.
>> Then use Dynaliner on the floor in front of the seats and foot box
>> area. There really is no need to install any insulation under the
>> seats it will interfere with the seat tracks.
>>
>> I now have put on my fire suit because there are probably 1000
>> different opinions about this.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> Stockton Ca 95205
>> 209-948-8767
>>
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>>
>> Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
>>    Enjoy
>> www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
>> .
>> .
>>
>> On Jan 22, 2013, at 7:22 PM, john spaur wrote:
>>
>>> I have a Heritage interior kit for my BT7. It came with the jute
>>> underlayment but it is very thick. The jute is supposed to be
>>> installed under the seat tracks and under the wood filler and metal
>>> strip that goes over the tar paper or whatever material people use
>>> in lieu of the tar paper.
>>>
>>> Are people installing the jute as described?
>>>
>>> Are people cutting slots in the jute like the carpet is slotted for
>>> the seat runners?
>>>
>>> Are thicker wood strips needed? Mine are 5/16" thick?
>>>
>>> Many thanks for any guidance provided.
>>>
>>> John Spaur
>>> San Jose, CA
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
>>> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley@cosmos.net.au
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2013.0.2890 / Virus Database: 2639/6051 - Release Date: 01/22/13
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 15:18:11 2013
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From: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
To: "'Michael Oritt'" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130122191736.0205cfa8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<B45740F3-F59D-4645-9115-827AD7AB4E88@sbcglobal.net>
	<51002D28.6020705@cosmos.net.au>
	<52D48BB7-4868-4EEA-AEC1-7C4E819F10DE@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 09:11:32 +1100
Thread-Index: AQI9hOSZb6hoadnTuWCIRh5v1VtdpQD9kbJnAV+b5WoBk/tMU5dY2CSQ
Content-Language: en-au
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jute underlayment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Michael. I would expect that it would work much better under the car
where the foil faces the heat. I know the Dynamat sticks well, I just wonder
about having anything glued under the floor where water ingress could happen
and set up rust. Mind you with all that heat under there it would probably
dry out quickly :) perhaps not an issue on the under side or the tunnel.
Cheers
Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt [mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, 24 January 2013 8:45 AM
To: varley@cosmos.net.au
Cc: David Nock British Car Specialists; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jute underlayment

Larry

When I installed dynamat in my 100 I sandwiched both the floor under the
driver's seat and the transmission tunnel with creating a very effective
heat barrier.

Best--Michael oritt

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 23, 2013, at 1:34 PM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> Hi David, not a flame, just my experience with Dynamat. I used it on my V8
powered Vanguard ute extensively. The small cabin has tremendous heat build
up, and it is really no better with the Dynamat. I found it was great for
noise insulation, which reduced dramatically, however the floors above the
mufflers got just as hot as before installing it. It is an excellent product
to use, it bonds and forms well over the steel, but for heat insulation it
would need to be on the outside of the car rather than the inside, in my
opinion.
> Cheers
> Larry
> 
> On 24/01/2013 3:46 AM, David Nock British Car Specialists wrote:
>> The Jute is original but not really a good heat insulator. If you are 
>> looking to block as much heat as you can I would recomend using 
>> Dynamat on the entire  floor first rather than the tar paper. Include 
>> covering the transmission tunnel and vertical panel on both sides as 
>> well as behind the front kick panels especialy on the drivers side.
>> Then use Dynaliner on the floor in front of the seats and foot box 
>> area. There really is no need to install any insulation under the 
>> seats it will interfere with the seat tracks.
>> 
>> I now have put on my fire suit because there are probably 1000 
>> different opinions about this.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> Stockton Ca 95205
>> 209-948-8767
>> 
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>> 
>> Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
>>    Enjoy    
>> www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
>> .
>> .
>> 
>> On Jan 22, 2013, at 7:22 PM, john spaur wrote:
>> 
>>> I have a Heritage interior kit for my BT7. It came with the jute 
>>> underlayment but it is very thick. The jute is supposed to be 
>>> installed under the seat tracks and under the wood filler and metal 
>>> strip that goes over the tar paper or whatever material people use 
>>> in lieu of the tar paper.
>>> 
>>> Are people installing the jute as described?
>>> 
>>> Are people cutting slots in the jute like the carpet is slotted for 
>>> the seat runners?
>>> 
>>> Are thicker wood strips needed? Mine are 5/16" thick?
>>> 
>>> Many thanks for any guidance provided.
>>> 
>>> John Spaur
>>> San Jose, CA
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
>>> donation  $12.75
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>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
>>> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
>> donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>> 
>> -----
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>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 16:23:34 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 15:18:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, Jean Caron
	<vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Marque  -
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Not yet - last was Nov 2012.

 











Robert N. Blair, Calif.
  Yellow 65BJ8
  RNBmail@yahoo.com

 



--- On Tue, 1/22/13, Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
wrote:


From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque -
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, January 22, 2013, 6:10 PM


List:
Has anyone received the January 2013 Healey Marque and the 2013 Calendar and
if so when?
None in our Club here in Manitoba have received theirs, so before I contact
anyone in the AHCA, I'd like to find out from others.

Jean Caron
Winnipeg
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rnbmail@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 21:06:13 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Healey Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>, Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Old Gas Stations
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You can see the hat briefly in the opening credits of  a programme called
"Almost Live" at 1.30 am Sunday on KING-TV Seattle.  Insomniacs delight!
Regards,  Lodge BJ8 in Vancouver.



--- On Wed, 23/1/13, Mike
<phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:

> From: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
>
Subject: [Healeys]  Old Gas Stations
> To: "Healey Forum"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, 23 January, 2013, 2:00
> Folks in
the Seattle area will
> remember the cowboy station on First Avenue. The
station
> itself was a giant ten-gallon hat, and the restrooms were
> housed
in a pair of equally giant cowboy boots.  It sat
> idle for many, many years,
and was finally relocated to a
> small park in the Georgetown area (Oxbow
Park).  The
> whole thing was rather kitschy, but somewhat typical of the
>
quest for customers back in the '50's.  For more info,
> see:
> 
>
http://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/2235
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
>
Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 19:04:09 2013
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 01:54:53 +0000
	FILETIME=[CDB6EC40:01CDF9D5]
Subject: [Healeys] Jute - BJ8 heat shield for earlier cars
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All this talk of jute underlayment got me thinking about using an under floor
BJ8 heat shield.  I have considered buying a BJ8 heat shield to install above
the muffler on an early 3000.  Was it really effective to reduce the heat on
the BJ8 floor?  Anyone put it on an earlier car?  Fitment issues?
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 19:10:20 2013
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  (PST)
References: <BAY173-W1227AA69345A46B400EA22C0140@phx.gbl>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 10:05:40 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jute - BJ8 heat shield for earlier cars
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It definitely helps on trips under an hour, but really the best you can do
is make sure all the holes around the tunnel and firewall are properly
sealed, that's where most of the heat comes from.  The heat pads definitely
fit on all 3000s and 100s for that matter.

On Thu, Jan 24, 2013 at 9:54 AM, richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>wrote:

> All this talk of jute underlayment got me thinking about using an under
> floor
> BJ8 heat shield.  I have considered buying a BJ8 heat shield to install
> above
> the muffler on an early 3000.  Was it really effective to reduce the heat
> on
> the BJ8 floor?  Anyone put it on an earlier car?  Fitment issues?
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 19:40:34 2013
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From: "Charlie Schott" <schottc@knology.net>
To: "richard mayor" <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>, "healeys"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY173-W1227AA69345A46B400EA22C0140@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 18:35:54 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trnsmission tunnel carpet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Would someone please tell or show me how the carpet and vinyl is fitted to 
the front part of the transmission tunnel on a BT7. I've seen pictures where 
vinyl covers the flange part of the tunnel, but I don't know if the screw 
heads are on top of or below the vinyl. Also, does the vinyl fold over the 
flange or is it trimmed flush with the edge of the flange? That's assuming 
that screws are used to attach the tunnel to the shroud. Also, since the 
floor carpet is not permanently attached, am I correct in assuming that it 
goes on top of the tunnel mounting flange? And also the padding? Thanks in 
advance for your help.

Regards,

Charlie Schott
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 20:25:51 2013
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From: "Charlie Schott" <schottc@knology.net>
To: "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com>, <healeyguy@aol.com>
References: <CACPMnYr95kVKJn_v+GBzcHJ1pEBxv-bBZHQWYFVYG2yAk9u8eg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 19:20:58 -0800
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bt 7 dash
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira,

I have the same situation in that I will be soon trying to install my dash 
on my BT7. I would appreciate if you would share any information you receive 
with me. I'm hoping that when I try to fit it to the car that there will be 
holes that line up and, therefore, make the installation very obvious. Or 
maybe not. Thanks. schottc@knology.net

Regards,

Charlie Schott

-----Original Message----- 
From: I Erbs
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 11:05 AM
To: healeyguy@aol.com
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] Bt 7 dash

All thus talk about bj8 dash got me to thinking about how I line up the
holes to attach my BT7 dash to the metal cowl?

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
On Jan 20, 2013 9:47 AM, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:

> Don't forget the metal tabs that are screwed to the dash top wood bow 
> about
> 1-1/2 inches from either end.  They get bent under the rear of the
> shroud/cowl
> to hold the dash top down.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jjsandsms <jjsandsms@cs.com>
>
> Also what actually attaches the dash pad to the car.  I seem as only the
> two
> crews the hold the rear-view mirror down hold it in place.  It has been so
> ong since the car was assembled that I am not sure anymore.  Does the 
> front
> f the pad get captured by the bottom of the windshield frame?  I am not to
> hat point yet.
> hanks
> eff
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 20:43:26 2013
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	<69DA15F74808423DB26DE601FEE45D47@CharliePC>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 19:38:11 -0800
To: Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bt 7 dash
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I got this from Perry:
Easier than the BJ8.  The demister vents have posts that pop into the
shroud.  The rear view mirror can be marked through the holes from under
the dash. That leaves just the tonneau turnbuttons.  Make a template of the
holes in the shroud and transfer to the dash pad.
Aloha
Perry
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Wed, Jan 23, 2013 at 7:20 PM, Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net> wrote:

> Ira,
>
> I have the same situation in that I will be soon trying to install my dash
> on my BT7. I would appreciate if you would share any information you
> receive with me. I'm hoping that when I try to fit it to the car that there
> will be holes that line up and, therefore, make the installation very
> obvious. Or maybe not. Thanks. schottc@knology.net
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: I Erbs
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 11:05 AM
> To: healeyguy@aol.com
> Cc: Ahealey help
> Subject: [Healeys] Bt 7 dash
>
>
> All thus talk about bj8 dash got me to thinking about how I line up the
> holes to attach my BT7 dash to the metal cowl?
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> On Jan 20, 2013 9:47 AM, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:
>
>  Don't forget the metal tabs that are screwed to the dash top wood bow
>> about
>> 1-1/2 inches from either end.  They get bent under the rear of the
>> shroud/cowl
>> to hold the dash top down.
>> Aloha
>> Perry
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: jjsandsms <jjsandsms@cs.com>
>>
>> Also what actually attaches the dash pad to the car.  I seem as only the
>> two
>> crews the hold the rear-view mirror down hold it in place.  It has been so
>> ong since the car was assembled that I am not sure anymore.  Does the
>> front
>> f the pad get captured by the bottom of the windshield frame?  I am not to
>> hat point yet.
>> hanks
>> eff
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com>
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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> options/healeys/schottc@**knology.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knology.net>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 23:09:38 2013
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Get Dayco part number 80397.  Ebay - cheap, fits great.  Comes with the 90
degree bend as needed, you just cut to length.  Less than half the price of
BCS, same part.

 - Paul
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 24 01:14:05 2013
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From: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
To: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: 24 Jan 2013 09:08:39 +0100
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark plugs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon,
the 123ignition does not play a role when it comes to choose the right spark plugs. The DW cam might have an influence, but don't know. Sorry!
Eric


I have a 3000 MkII with a Denis Welch cam & 123Ignition.

Does my car take the same plugs as a BJ8, the plugs from which I have been
offered?

Thanks,

Simon.
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	<B7E048D8E33F4144BF580F06BDC1F740@CharliePC>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 08:37:20 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trnsmission tunnel carpet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Charlie

The transmission tunnel is held in place by the screws that attach it to
the floor. The front flange is covered on both sides by the vinyl. There
are no screws in it.

The carpet is attached to the tunnel by four snaps and should extend to the
edges of the floor flanges. The floor carpets then lie over the carpetted
tunnel flanges.

Derek


On Thu, Jan 24, 2013 at 2:35 AM, Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net> wrote:

> Would someone please tell or show me how the carpet and vinyl is fitted to
> the front part of the transmission tunnel on a BT7. I've seen pictures
> where vinyl covers the flange part of the tunnel, but I don't know if the
> screw heads are on top of or below the vinyl. Also, does the vinyl fold
> over the flange or is it trimmed flush with the edge of the flange? That's
> assuming that screws are used to attach the tunnel to the shroud. Also,
> since the floor carpet is not permanently attached, am I correct in
> assuming that it goes on top of the tunnel mounting flange? And also the
> padding? Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 10:06:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Transmission Tunnel Carpet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Charlie,

Derek is correct in that there are no screws from the tunnel flange to the
vertical bulkhead.  This is true of the majority of the metal tunnels which
have just a single narrow flange at the front of the tunnel.

But if yours is a late sideshift, around the time of the cranked shift lever,
the factory did make an effort to improve the tunnel seal.  Late sideshift
transmission covers had a much wider double-bend flange at the front, about
2", and I'm pretty sure these wide flanges had screws going into the vertical
bulkhead. Its not documented in the Parts List, though.

Front flanges were covered on both sides with a 3" vinyl strip matching the
carpet colour folded over the edge.  The jute insulation and carpet butted up
against the vertical flange so that some of the vinyl edge could be seen
against the bulkhead. There was no attempt to "curl up" the carpet at the
front to cover the flange. If it was a wide flange tunnel, the three screws
just passed through the vinyl strip.

The rear tunnel flange had a black vinyl strip folded around the edge as well
as a thin felt sealing strip where it seated over top of the fixed tunnel.

The metal side flanges of the tunnel seat on top of the jute floor insulation
and were held down by four screws originally, but on many cars more screws
have been added over the years. The jute tunnel insulation, which was glued to
the carpet only at the middle top, came down the sides but didn't turn the
corner. The carpet did turn and made a horizontal edge of about 1.5" along the
fore-aft sides of the tunnel, which was overlapped generously by the floor
carpets.

Your dash top should be fitted before the windshield goes on. The roadsters
have machine screws for the mirror and tonneau cover peg, as well as
countersunk self tappers in cup washers on the extreme outer edges (impossible
to get at with the windshield in place) and for the turnbutton fasteners.
Don't forget to do the complex rubber cowl seal installation and edge piping
first.

Best regards
Peter
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 11:03:08 -0500
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1359043386;
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Subject: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi guys, I need to replace the fabric trim (not rubber) pieces on the
windshield posts, and on the top around the windows & header rail on my BJ8.

Who has quality replacements and item number (if possible)?

Thanks,
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 24 10:09:36 2013
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: <healey100m@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 16:59:52 +0000
References: <80750A30-4B5C-43CF-B76C-A74B1976364A@gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[3A9CBDC0:01CDFA54]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Randy:
Unfortunately the original material for the windshield posts, as far as I
know, is no longer available unless David Nock still has some pieces of it.
The replacement you can get for it from Bristleflex is not at all like the
original stuff. Recently I was talking to a list member from NY state who owns
a restoration shop and he is trying to have some of the stuff made. I have
some material that is very similar that you could attempt to glue in place of
your used material but the weaving is not exactly like the original if that is
what you are looking for.

Jean Caron
Winnipeg

> From: Healey100M@gmail.com
> Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 11:03:08 -0500
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement
>
> Hi guys, I need to replace the fabric trim (not rubber) pieces on the
> windshield posts, and on the top around the windows & header rail on my
BJ8.
>
> Who has quality replacements and item number (if possible)?
>
> Thanks,
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
tmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 24 10:55:57 2013
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: <healey100m@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:47:46 +0000
References: <80750A30-4B5C-43CF-B76C-A74B1976364A@gmail.com>,
	<BLU173-W4541E95B736F6B886B237FD1140@phx.gbl>
	FILETIME=[EB51CE20:01CDFA5A]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Randy:
I want to clarify my previous message here, the original material is not being
made anymore, from what David Nock had told me a while back was because the
type of glue used was flammable or something like that. The material used by
Bristleflex first of all holds on far better than the original stuff and
without the need for pop rivets on the windshield posts which was needed on
the original material. As well where it bends to attach to the top lip of the
fender, you have lot less hassle with the Bristleflex and it holds in place,
the colour of the material used by Bristleflex is correct, the texture of the
material is different simply because the material is not available anywhere. I
have used the Bristleflex which is supplied by Martin MacGregor from Ontario
on several cars for the doors and windshield posts(for BJ7 & 8) and for me
anyway, it's the way to go simply because it stay in place, it grips far
better. If you can get samples from Martin, you will see the difference.

Jean Caron
Winnipeg


> From: vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com
> To: healey100m@gmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 16:59:52 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement
>
> Randy:
> Unfortunately the original material for the windshield posts, as far as I
> know, is no longer available unless David Nock still has some pieces of it.
> The replacement you can get for it from Bristleflex is not at all like the
> original stuff. Recently I was talking to a list member from NY state who
owns
> a restoration shop and he is trying to have some of the stuff made. I have
> some material that is very similar that you could attempt to glue in place
of
> your used material but the weaving is not exactly like the original if that
is
> what you are looking for.
>
> Jean Caron
> Winnipeg
>
> > From: Healey100M@gmail.com
> > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 11:03:08 -0500
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement
> >
> > Hi guys, I need to replace the fabric trim (not rubber) pieces on the
> > windshield posts, and on the top around the windows & header rail on my
> BJ8.
> >
> > Who has quality replacements and item number (if possible)?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
> tmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
tmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 24 11:44:07 2013
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From: "Ed Orr" <eorr@cogeco.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 13:38:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Windshield & Top trim replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Orr" <eorr@cogeco.ca>
To: "Jean Caron" <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2013 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement


> Jean have you encountered the fuzzy stuff wearing off , this happened to 
> me on booth the driver and passenger side at the bottom where I guess your 
> feet touch getting in and out of the car . I have only driven about 5000 
> mles since installation . I spoke to Martin at a car show but he did'nt 
> offer much help . I intend to follow this up next season .
>
> Ed Orr
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jean Caron" <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
> To: <healey100m@gmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2013 12:47 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement
>
>
>> Randy:
>> I want to clarify my previous message here, the original material is not 
>> being
>> made anymore, from what David Nock had told me a while back was because 
>> the
>> type of glue used was flammable or something like that. The material used 
>> by
>> Bristleflex first of all holds on far better than the original stuff and
>> without the need for pop rivets on the windshield posts which was needed 
>> on
>> the original material. As well where it bends to attach to the top lip of 
>> the
>> fender, you have lot less hassle with the Bristleflex and it holds in 
>> place,
>> the colour of the material used by Bristleflex is correct, the texture of 
>> the
>> material is different simply because the material is not available 
>> anywhere. I
>> have used the Bristleflex which is supplied by Martin MacGregor from 
>> Ontario
>> on several cars for the doors and windshield posts(for BJ7 & 8) and for 
>> me
>> anyway, it's the way to go simply because it stay in place, it grips far
>> better. If you can get samples from Martin, you will see the difference.
>>
>> Jean Caron
>> Winnipeg
>>
>>
>>> From: vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com
>>> To: healey100m@gmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net
>>> Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 16:59:52 +0000
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement
>>>
>>> Randy:
>>> Unfortunately the original material for the windshield posts, as far as 
>>> I
>>> know, is no longer available unless David Nock still has some pieces of 
>>> it.
>>> The replacement you can get for it from Bristleflex is not at all like 
>>> the
>>> original stuff. Recently I was talking to a list member from NY state 
>>> who
>> owns
>>> a restoration shop and he is trying to have some of the stuff made. I 
>>> have
>>> some material that is very similar that you could attempt to glue in 
>>> place
>> of
>>> your used material but the weaving is not exactly like the original if 
>>> that
>> is
>>> what you are looking for.
>>>
>>> Jean Caron
>>> Winnipeg
>>>
>>> > From: Healey100M@gmail.com
>>> > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 11:03:08 -0500
>>> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
>>> > Subject: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement
>>> >
>>> > Hi guys, I need to replace the fabric trim (not rubber) pieces on the
>>> > windshield posts, and on the top around the windows & header rail on 
>>> > my
>>> BJ8.
>>> >
>>> > Who has quality replacements and item number (if possible)?
>>> >
>>> > Thanks,
>>> > _______________________________________________
>>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> >
>>> > Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> >
>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
>>> tmail.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
>> tmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr@cogeco.ca
>>
> 


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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw:  Windshield & Top trim replacement
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Ed,
The fuzzy stuff wore off of my door trim in a vry short time, too.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Orr <eorr@cogeco.ca>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jan 24, 2013 12:39 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Windshield & Top trim replacement


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Orr" <eorr@cogeco.ca>
To: "Jean Caron" <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2013 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement

f
> Jean have you encountered the fuzzy stuff wearing off , this happened to
> me on booth the driver and passenger side at the bottom where I guess your
> feet touch getting in and out of the car . I have only driven about 5000
> mles since installation . I spoke to Martin at a car show but he did'nt
> offer much help . I intend to follow this up next season .
>
> Ed Orr
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 24 12:35:43 2013
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References: <4A9AF6055ED04836B2116164A4587CAE@ED>
	<8CFC87EEDB86F73-1C34-7FEF@webmail-m162.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 14:31:02 -0500
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: warthodson@aol.com
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Windshield & Top trim replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Perhaps someone can make the weatherstripping out of chia pets and it will
grow back when worn down?

Best--Michael Oritt


On Thu, Jan 24, 2013 at 2:19 PM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

> Ed,
> The fuzzy stuff wore off of my door trim in a vry short time, too.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Orr <eorr@cogeco.ca>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Jan 24, 2013 12:39 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Windshield & Top trim replacement
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Orr" <eorr@cogeco.ca>
> To: "Jean Caron" <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2013 1:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement
>
> f
> > Jean have you encountered the fuzzy stuff wearing off , this happened to
> > me on booth the driver and passenger side at the bottom where I guess
> your
> > feet touch getting in and out of the car . I have only driven about 5000
> > mles since installation . I spoke to Martin at a car show but he did'nt
> > offer much help . I intend to follow this up next season .
> >
> > Ed Orr
> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 24 12:43:20 2013
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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 11:34:03 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jute - BJ8 heat shield for earlier cars
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Has anyone tried the new Moss muffler heat shield? It is expensive.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=110225
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 24 13:03:42 2013
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From: "Richard McGavern" <rmcgaver@rochester.rr.com>
To: "'Randy Hicks'" <Healey100M@gmail.com>, "'Healey List'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <80750A30-4B5C-43CF-B76C-A74B1976364A@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 14:58:46 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac36TFe7LjQclJznRlmvAjIZEoAwTwAIJe5Q
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Try Martin MacGregor, Dundas Ontario, Toronto..He has the good
stuff!www.macgregorukcarparts.com/mjmbritish@execulink.com and he knows what
you need and how to install it.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randy Hicks
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2013 11:03 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Windshield & Top trim replacement

Hi guys, I need to replace the fabric trim (not rubber) pieces on the
windshield posts, and on the top around the windows & header rail on my BJ8.

Who has quality replacements and item number (if possible)?

Thanks,
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rmcgaver@rochester.rr.com

-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Internal Virus Database is out of date.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 24 13:15:31 2013
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130124113301.01fec228@pop.att.yahoo.com>
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 12:07:27 -0800
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jute - BJ8 heat shield for earlier cars
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes we have installed them on several cars both BJ8s as well as a  
BT7. Work great they do need a little adjusting but no bid deal.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Jan 24, 2013, at 11:34 AM, john spaur wrote:

> Has anyone tried the new Moss muffler heat shield? It is expensive.
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=110225
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 24 18:40:20 2013
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 20:35:21 -0500 (EST)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1359077721;
	bh=nGeleK0QxwAjKagl/nZirU01caXkmG6cfKVWl05Tt7o=;
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Subject: [Healeys] No Healey-Just Sir Sterling Moss
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This video link was posted to my facebook page and so I went and took a  
look. I think it's really, really good. It's almost an hour long and kept me  
interested all the way so I thought I'd pass it along. Enjoy.
_http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8_ 
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8) 
 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 25 04:32:47 2013
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 21:27:39 +1000
From: Noel and Helen standfast <hstandfa@iinet.net.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
	Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: Healeys list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 on the road again but problems with jumping out of
 second gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi listers

this week we registered our BN1 after a two year restoration and it's 
great to be in a big Healey again.  The car had been sitting in pieces 
in Brisbane since 1977 and without the help of fellow Queensland Healey 
Club  members and members of this list, it would still be that way.  
We've had a few six cylinder Healeys over the years but this is our 
first 100 and I'm surprised what a pleasantly different driving 
experience the four is.  Still a long list of things to finish and bugs 
to sort out as usual but generally all systems work as they should.  
Only disappointment is despite having the standard three speed gearbox 
reconditioned it jumps out of second gear on the over-run, I'm told this 
is a common problem with the BN1s.  I note the manual mentions the 
selector forks/spring as the likely problem, is this where I should 
start and can it be fixed with the box in place?

thanks


Noel S
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 25 08:04:49 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Noel and Helen standfast'" <hstandfa@iinet.net.au>, "'Healeys
	list'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <51026C2B.6020109@iinet.net.au>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 07:59:34 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac367xYwKb3gxd+USsWnxQ/6stjnrQAHRlpQ
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 on the road again but problems with jumping out
 of second gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Noel,
 No it has to come out. My experience with the early box has shown that
issue to be with excessive thrust clearance. There are 2 thrust washers,
rather than Bellville washers. They are not easy to come by in all sizes and
it may be that a new original will do the job.
Dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Noel and Helen standfast
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2013 4:28 AM
To: Healeys list
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 on the road again but problems with jumping out of
second gear

Hi listers

this week we registered our BN1 after a two year restoration and it's 
great to be in a big Healey again.  The car had been sitting in pieces 
in Brisbane since 1977 and without the help of fellow Queensland Healey 
Club  members and members of this list, it would still be that way.  
We've had a few six cylinder Healeys over the years but this is our 
first 100 and I'm surprised what a pleasantly different driving 
experience the four is.  Still a long list of things to finish and bugs 
to sort out as usual but generally all systems work as they should.  
Only disappointment is despite having the standard three speed gearbox 
reconditioned it jumps out of second gear on the over-run, I'm told this 
is a common problem with the BN1s.  I note the manual mentions the 
selector forks/spring as the likely problem, is this where I should 
start and can it be fixed with the box in place?

thanks


Noel S
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 25 09:22:38 2013
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:17:37 -0500
From: Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] rotisseries
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This link was posted to another list, but there was too much there not 
to share.  Build your own rotisseries and other home-made tools.

<http://www.homemadetools.net/category/rotisseries.

--
Kent McLean
1956 100 BN2
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 25 12:24:44 2013
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 19:11:40 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] rotisseries
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My dad built one out of wood: 

http://home.comcast.net/~bspidell/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-2709231.html 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent McLean" <kentmclean@comcast.net> 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2013 8:17:37 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] rotisseries 

This link was posted to another list, but there was too much there not 
to share. Build your own rotisseries and other home-made tools. 

<http://www.homemadetools.net/category/rotisseries. 

-- 
Kent McLean 
1956 100 BN2 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 26 07:01:07 2013
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 08:55:41 -0500
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
To: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] heater box in BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I undid the six screws holding the heater box to the firewall, undid the
cables, lowered the heater box to the tunnel, unhooked all the air ducts,
and removed the two (probably original!) heater hoses.  I'd like remove the
heater from the car to repaint it (the PO brushed it with gray paint).  I
don't think there's quite enough room to get the heater out without
removing the transmission cover or unscrewing the instrument cluster,
center panel with the switches, and the glove box.  Is that true, or is
there some way to wiggle it out without taking more of the car apart?

thanks!

- Tom
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 26 14:37:43 2013
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 22:21:40 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
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References: <CANQM1PJ=C-fjsbh+DcqaVyim_wkmfKzvX7ssCJgtJZ5ovxbvnA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heater box in BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom
I have removed the heater without taking my car apart. I have a BT7 
though, so if you need to remove something it would be the center panel. 
Wouldn't it be possible to remove it sideways, away from the dteering wheel?

Per

Tom skrev 2013-01-26 14:55:
   I
> don't think there's quite enough room to get the heater out without
> removing the transmission cover or unscrewing the instrument cluster,
> center panel with the switches, and the glove box.  Is that true, or is
> there some way to wiggle it out without taking more of the car apart?
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 26 14:52:12 2013
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heater box in BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It's been many moons ago, but IIRC when I took the heater out of my BJ8 I had to remove the transmission tunnel cover.

Bob



On 1/26/2013 1:21 PM, Per Schoerner wrote:
> Tom
> I have removed the heater without taking my car apart. I have a BT7 though, so if you need to remove something it 
> would be the center panel. Wouldn't it be possible to remove it sideways, away from the dteering wheel?
>
> Per
>
> Tom skrev 2013-01-26 14:55:
>   I
>> don't think there's quite enough room to get the heater out without
>> removing the transmission cover or unscrewing the instrument cluster,
>> center panel with the switches, and the glove box.  Is that true, or is
>> there some way to wiggle it out without taking more of the car apart?
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 26 16:22:20 2013
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From: "Charlie Schott" <schottc@knology.net>
To: "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com>, <healeyguy@aol.com>
References: <CACPMnYr95kVKJn_v+GBzcHJ1pEBxv-bBZHQWYFVYG2yAk9u8eg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 15:08:39 -0800
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Automatic Choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've read where my BT7 may have originally been equipped with an automatic 
choke. Since I recently purchased it completely disassembled, I don't know 
how it was. There was a hole in the dash for the choke cable, but it was 
cobbled out and not in the correct location (although close). I had it 
welded up but before I drill one in the correct location, I thought that I 
better check. Is there a way of knowing by looking at the carburetors? If 
someone changed it to a cable, maybe that evidence is gone. Or am I better 
off to just go with the cable for the reliability? By the way, it is a 1960 
and the VIN is HBT7L04455. Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 26 16:37:58 2013
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 18:30:22 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Automatic Choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Charlie
Thermo choke introduced in July 1959 at BT7 2194. Manual choke reintroduced in
Nov 1959 at 6369 with all cars having them at 6395. Sounds like your car
should have had the thermo choke.
Aloha
Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>; healeyguy <healeyguy@aol.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jan 26, 2013 6:08 pm
Subject: Re: Automatic Choke



I've read where my BT7 may have originally been equipped with an automatic
hoke. Since I recently purchased it completely disassembled, I don't know
ow it was. There was a hole in the dash for the choke cable, but it was
obbled out and not in the correct location (although close). I had it
elded up but before I drill one in the correct location, I thought that I
etter check. Is there a way of knowing by looking at the carburetors? If
omeone changed it to a cable, maybe that evidence is gone. Or am I better
ff to just go with the cable for the reliability? By the way, it is a 1960
nd the VIN is HBT7L04455. Thanks.
Regards,
Charlie Schott
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 15:55:40 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Seat covers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

When I disassembled the rear jump seats the foam was glued to the 
entire bucket.

The front seats bottom was glued only at the middle insert portion.

Is that the way it should be done?

Thanks in advance,

John Spaur

'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 26 17:40:10 2013
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 19:35:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Seat Covers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John

The original roadster rear seat pans had a "D" shaped stiff horsehair pad
glued to the metal pan under the pleated portion of the seat, with thin cotton
wadding under the smooth horseshoe part.  The piping between the two parts
lined up with the series of holes in the metal pan, which were for a number of
butcher's cord stringsattached to the cover piping. These passed through the
holes and tied to each other, pulling the piping firmly down to the pan. The
strings, holes and knots were covered by vinyl strips for waterproofing.

The edges of the seat covers were turned over the edges of the metal pan and
glued to the back of the pan.  So really no part of the rear seat cover faces
was actually glued to the front face of the pan.

Nowdays the horsehair has been replaced by a 1/2" foam pad and the cotton
wadding by 1/8" foam.

Best
Peter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 26 18:27:20 2013
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <healeyguy@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 01:20:58 +0000
References: <8CFCA343E86CA9F-1D34-2236C@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>
	FILETIME=[8FD1BBE0:01CDFC2C]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Automatic Choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The BJ8s may have had a hole to secure the choke cable in the dash or the
center console, but the earlier cars didn't. The choke cable on the earlier
cars was secured to a bracket on one of the dash supports under the dash.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> From: healeyguy@aol.com
> Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 18:30:22 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Automatic Choke
>
> Charlie
> Thermo choke introduced in July 1959 at BT7 2194. Manual choke reintroduced
in
> Nov 1959 at 6369 with all cars having them at 6395. Sounds like your car
> should have had the thermo choke.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net>
> To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>; healeyguy <healeyguy@aol.com>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Jan 26, 2013 6:08 pm
> Subject: Re: Automatic Choke
>
>
>
> I've read where my BT7 may have originally been equipped with an automatic
> hoke. Since I recently purchased it completely disassembled, I don't know
> ow it was. There was a hole in the dash for the choke cable, but it was
> obbled out and not in the correct location (although close). I had it
> elded up but before I drill one in the correct location, I thought that I
> etter check. Is there a way of knowing by looking at the carburetors? If
> omeone changed it to a cable, maybe that evidence is gone. Or am I better
> ff to just go with the cable for the reliability? By the way, it is a 1960
> nd the VIN is HBT7L04455. Thanks.
> Regards,
> Charlie Schott
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 26 18:39:33 2013
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 20:27:27 -0500
Thread-index: Ac38LXdV9GjVKEEdS56XIUhaygeoNg==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] 4th European Healey Meeting in Scotland
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello, Healeyphiles -
 
I'm passing on a question from a friend in Poland:  Is anyone on the list
planning to attend the 4th European Healey Meeting in Scotland?
If anyone is, please let me know.
 
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 26 19:30:16 2013
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	<BDDC0C46820249B7933D113438B01CE2@CharliePC>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 10:25:10 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Automatic Choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Charlie -

The Auxiliary Enrichment Device, as it is called, is actually quite nice to
have provided you don't use the Otter switch to activate it.  Just rig up a
switch to activate it and it works quite well.  The downsides of it is you
have to make sure it is all buttoned up correctly (or it can leak) and your
float bowls need to be adjusted properly or your carbs run too rich.  It's
all fairly easy to deal with provided you know the one or two tricks to
keep the AED from leaking fuel + disconnect the otter switch (which was a
fix advisory issued by the factory).

Best,

Alan

On Sun, Jan 27, 2013 at 7:08 AM, Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net> wrote:

> I've read where my BT7 may have originally been equipped with an automatic
> choke. Since I recently purchased it completely disassembled, I don't know
> how it was. There was a hole in the dash for the choke cable, but it was
> cobbled out and not in the correct location (although close). I had it
> welded up but before I drill one in the correct location, I thought that I
> better check. Is there a way of knowing by looking at the carburetors? If
> someone changed it to a cable, maybe that evidence is gone. Or am I better
> off to just go with the cable for the reliability? By the way, it is a 1960
> and the VIN is HBT7L04455. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 26 21:00:03 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 03:55:01 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?automatic_choke?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

i am not going to be the first to display my ignorance of an "otter switch".  i will let someone have that experience.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 26 21:14:35 2013
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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 20:09:17 -0800
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To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
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Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That's easy ... it's the one you 'otter' turn on.

bs


On 1/26/2013 7:55 PM, healeymanjim@hansencc.net wrote:
> i am not going to be the first to display my ignorance of an "otter switch".  i will let someone have that experience.
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 09:39:16 +0100
To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink@msn.com>, "Forum Healeys"
	<Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] Automatic Choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill, 

	I need to correct you. The 100/6s had the choke cable secured to a
bracket on the dash support. 

	When manual choke was reintroduced on the 3000 MK1s they put a hole
in the dash 
to secure the choke cable. This was till the end of the BJ7s and
followed on with the new dash on the BJ8s. 

	Josef eckert 

	Konigswinter/Germany 

	  Von: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
An: <healeyguy@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Automatic Choke
Datum: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 02:20:58 +0100

 The BJ8s may have had a hole to secure the choke cable in the dash or
the
center console, but the earlier cars didn't. The choke cable on the
earlier
cars was secured to a bracket on one of the dash supports under the
dash.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 02:34:13 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 09:20:06 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Automatic Choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The automatic choke was an answer to a question that nobody asked. Thats
why they junked it.

Derek


On Sun, Jan 27, 2013 at 8:39 AM, josef-eckert@t-online.de <
josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote:

> Bill,
>
>         I need to correct you. The 100/6s had the choke cable secured to a
> bracket on the dash support.
>
>         When manual choke was reintroduced on the 3000 MK1s they put a hole
> in the dash
> to secure the choke cable. This was till the end of the BJ7s and
> followed on with the new dash on the BJ8s.
>
>         Josef eckert
>
>         Konigswinter/Germany
>
>           Von: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
> An: <healeyguy@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Automatic Choke
> Datum: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 02:20:58 +0100
>
>  The BJ8s may have had a hole to secure the choke cable in the dash or
> the
> center console, but the earlier cars didn't. The choke cable on the
> earlier
> cars was secured to a bracket on one of the dash supports under the
> dash.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 05:39:05 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 13:33:02 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4th European Healey Meeting in Scotland
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Steve
Yes.

Per

BJ8 Healeys skrev 2013-01-27 02:27:
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> I'm passing on a question from a friend in Poland:  Is anyone on the list
> planning to attend the 4th European Healey Meeting in Scotland?
> If anyone is, please let me know.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 05:53:28 2013
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	<5104A86D.7000005@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 20:46:23 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob -

You're confused.  It's not that switch you are talking about, it's the
otter one.

Alan

On Sunday, January 27, 2013, Bob Spidell wrote:

> That's easy ... it's the one you 'otter' turn on.
>
> bs
>
>
> On 1/26/2013 7:55 PM, healeymanjim@hansencc.net wrote:
>
>> i am not going to be the first to display my ignorance of an "otter
>> switch".  i will let someone have that experience.
>> ______________________________**_________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/healey.nut@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 07:26:03 2013
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	<510448E4.2030801@bredband.net> <51044EDB.10003@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 09:16:42 -0500
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heater box in BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

Thanks for all of your advice.   This is a great place to go when the
service manual runs out of information.

- Tom

On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 4:47 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> It's been many moons ago, but IIRC when I took the heater out of my BJ8 I
> had to remove the transmission tunnel cover.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> On 1/26/2013 1:21 PM, Per Schoerner wrote:
>
>> Tom
>> I have removed the heater without taking my car apart. I have a BT7
>> though, so if you need to remove something it would be the center panel.
>> Wouldn't it be possible to remove it sideways, away from the dteering wheel?
>>
>> Per
>>
>> Tom skrev 2013-01-26 14:55:
>>   I
>>
>>> don't think there's quite enough room to get the heater out without
>>> removing the transmission cover or unscrewing the instrument cluster,
>>> center panel with the switches, and the glove box.  Is that true, or is
>>> there some way to wiggle it out without taking more of the car apart?
>>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 10:25:19 -0500
Thread-index: Ac38ooPBiC5sVMumQVm6RKjwyMXy+A==
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4th European Healey Meeting
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Thanks to all for your responses concerning the 4th European Healey Meeting.
It will be held in Crieff, Scotland 26 May - 1 June 2013.
Unfortunately, I will not be able to attend myself - much as I would like
to, but was asked by a non-lister BJ8 owner from Poland if I knew of anyone
who would be attending.  The list is a great way to take a survey for such
questions for our worldwide Healey community.
 
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
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Subject: [Healeys] Correct finish for throttle linkage BJ8??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What is the correct finish for the throttle linkage on the firewall on BJ8
Phase 2?  Where they painted, plated (zinc?) or what? Thanks


jjs 64 BJ8
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 09:32:45 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] OT:  Galloping Ghost ...
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

... was the highly-modified P-51D that crashed at the Reno Air Races in 2011, killing the pilot and 10 spectators, and 
injuring many others.  I just finished reading a 'Plane & Pilot' article summarizing the NTSB's determination of the 
cause of the crash: six small screws holding the elevator trim tabs to their hinges had come loose, two had broken 
allowing one of the tabs to separate causing loss of control with extreme G-loading causing pilot incapacitation.  The 
NTSB determined that that screws had come loose in their locknuts, which had some sort of insert (usually, these are the 
locknuts with metal inserts, but I've seen the 'nylock' type used as well).  The plane had extensive and, presumably, 
expensive speed mods including a 'boil-off' cooling system that let the alcohol/water coolant boil and vaporize in order 
to cool the engine.

Bottom line: the plane, with probably hundreds of thousands if not millions of dollars worth of mods, was brought down 
by a few bucks' worth of screws and locknuts (and, though it was unsaid in the article, it can be assumed sloppy or 
inattentive maintenance).

Healey content?  Next time you're bolting (or screwing) something up on your Healey give some thought to the 
appropriateness and condition of the fasteners you're using and their proper installation.

Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 10:59:14 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] Paint
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How about a discussion of the pros & cons of current paint product types &
brands available today? Of particular interest to me, in the category of base
coat, clear coat products, are there some types or brands that produce a
harder, more chip resistant finish than others?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 11:01:02 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
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That's otterly ridiculous but fun!!



-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jan 27, 2013 7:48 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke


Bob -
You're confused.  It's not that switch you are talking about, it's the
tter one.
Alan
On Sunday, January 27, 2013, Bob Spidell wrote:
> That's easy ... it's the one you 'otter' turn on.

 bs
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 11:14:38 2013
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To: "Healey Help List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] 5# striker spring from wolffs - Google Search
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<http://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=5%23+striker+spring+from+wolffs&sourceid=opera&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&channel=suggest>

-- 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 11:15:12 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint
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For a end product that more closely resembles original Austin Healey paint
finishes, I lean towards single stage urethane. Can be color sanded and buffed
for a smooth finish, is durable and just looks good. Opinions will very,
greatly!
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: warthodson <warthodson@aol.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jan 27, 2013 12:54 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Paint


How about a discussion of the pros & cons of current paint product types &
rands available today? Of particular interest to me, in the category of base
oat, clear coat products, are there some types or brands that produce a
arder, more chip resistant finish than others?
hanks,
ary Hodson
______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 11:17:03 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 12:12:05 -0600 (CST)
From: llennep@verizon.net
To: healey.nut@gmail.com, bspidell@comcast.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On come on guys.  Surely there are some otter more appropriate comments out there!


On 01/27/13, Alan Seigrist wrote:

Bob -

You're confused. It's not that switch you are talking about, it's the
otter one.

Alan

On Sunday, January 27, 2013, Bob Spidell wrote:

> That's easy ... it's the one you 'otter' turn on.
>
> bs
>
>
> On 1/26/2013 7:55 PM, healeymanjim@hansencc.net wrote:
>
>> i am not going to be the first to display my ignorance of an "otter
>> switch". i will let someone have that experience.
>> ______________________________**_________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 12:18:47 2013
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Perry,

You beat me to it.  I watch some of the auction action on TV and I gotta say I'm just plain tired of over-glossy 
'customs.'  But, it's well-known that fancy paint helps separate suckers from their money.  If you need to tart up a '53 
Chevy with glossy paint and ugly 20" chrome wheels to get the big bucks so be it but, IMO, you don't need glossy paint 
on a car that's beautiful in primer (my BJ8's well on its way to being a 'rat rod').

Been doing a bit of painting myself lately and, yes, you're probably going to have to use some type of urethane.  
Haven't seen any that claim extra chip resistance; urethane is, of course, a type of plastic and is going to be pretty 
resilient.  We sometimes put down sheets of plastic under the items we're painting, and just from the overspray after 
drying the paint peels off just like a sheet of plastic (albeit more brittle).

We use PPG Omni, one of the 'cheaper' paints (if you consider $200+/gal to be cheap).

Bob


On 1/27/2013 10:08 AM, healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
> For a end product that more closely resembles original Austin Healey paint
> finishes, I lean towards single stage urethane. Can be color sanded and buffed
> for a smooth finish, is durable and just looks good. Opinions will very,
> greatly!
> Aloha
> Perry
>
>
>
>
>
> How about a discussion of the pros & cons of current paint product types &
> rands available today? Of particular interest to me, in the category of base
> oat, clear coat products, are there some types or brands that produce a
> arder, more chip resistant finish than others?
> hanks,
> ary Hodson
> ______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 12:46:26 2013
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 11:33:49 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] off list for a while
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy all,
 I'm going in  for surgery tomorrow and have changed to digest format for a
while. Hopefully just a week. It should take 3-4 months for me to be well
enough to get back to my car in time to get it back on the road this
summer. I have prostate cancer with fantastic prognosis for recovery. Not
trying to generate a lot of email, just keeping you all in the loop. You
all have become a part of my extended family.
Happy Drives and garage time to you all.
Cheers
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 12:47:04 2013
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From: Bob Yule <autofarm@xplornet.ca>
To: "HEALEY LIST" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 14:45:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] auctions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

    Has anybody been able to find a list of the Healeys sold at the Scotsdale
auctions recently?  All the auction house web sites are proving impossible to
navigate, for me anyway.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 12:47:38 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>, <healeyguy@aol.com>
References: <8CFCACDC6FC077B-178C-2728E@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com><8CFCAD06FA54BFB-63C-29627@webmail-m056.sysops.aol.com>
	<51057C62.8040402@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 13:42:27 -0600
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree with Bob and Perry, a single stage urethane is a nice compromise to 
achieving the goal of getting more of a period look while still using a 
modern, superior paint product (I have painted with both acrylic lacquer and 
urethane enamel, the urethane is far better to work with).  It works easily 
(sand and polish) sticks very well, and is very durable, the adhesion and 
durability is where it is superior to older paints.  Spot touch ups will 
also polish out completely until the paint is fully cured (weeks to months 
after it goes on, however only on solids not on metallics).

It should also save a few bucks in labor and materials.

The look you want is matter of personal preference, but too (obviously) 
prefer the single stage urethane.

Greg Lemon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 13:02:11 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 11:46:44 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
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Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] off list for a while
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira,

Here's wishing you a speedy recovery.

Bob


On 1/27/2013 11:33 AM, I Erbs wrote:
> Howdy all,
>   I'm going in  for surgery tomorrow and have changed to digest format for a
> while. Hopefully just a week. It should take 3-4 months for me to be well
> enough to get back to my car in time to get it back on the road this
> summer. I have prostate cancer with fantastic prognosis for recovery. Not
> trying to generate a lot of email, just keeping you all in the loop. You
> all have become a part of my extended family.
> Happy Drives and garage time to you all.
> Cheers
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>     _______                                  _______
>       (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>           (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 13:16:46 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 12:02:21 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <8CFCACDC6FC077B-178C-2728E@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I was told base coat clear systems are required for metallic colors. 
However, I never researched it. It may have been a requirement with 
the particular metallic color I used which was Aston Martin almond pearl green.

John

At 12:49 PM 1/27/2013 -0500, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>How about a discussion of the pros & cons of current paint product types &
>brands available today? Of particular interest to me, in the category of base
>coat, clear coat products, are there some types or brands that produce a
>harder, more chip resistant finish than others?
>Thanks,
>Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 13:17:28 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 12:05:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] off list for a while
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira, 
  Take good care of yourself, get well and back in that Healey real
soon.
Ray Juncal




________________________________
 From: Bob Spidell
<bspidell@comcast.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> 
Cc: Ahealey help
<healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2013 11:46 AM
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] off list for a while
 
Ira,

Here's wishing you a speedy recovery.
Bob


On 1/27/2013 11:33 AM, I Erbs wrote:
> Howdy all,
>   I'm going in  for
surgery tomorrow and have changed to digest format for a
> while. Hopefully
just a week. It should take 3-4 months for me to be well
> enough to get back
to my car in time to get it back on the road this
> summer. I have prostate
cancer with fantastic prognosis for recovery. Not
> trying to generate a lot
of email, just keeping you all in the loop. You
> all have become a part of my
extended family.
> Happy Drives and garage time to you all.
> Cheers
> Ira
Erbs
> Portland, OR
>     _______                                  _______
> 
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>         
(_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual
donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
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>
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>
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>
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--
*******************************************************************
Bob
Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 13:35:20 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 12:30:12 -0800
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To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <8CFCACDC6FC077B-178C-2728E@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20130127115808.01fff810@pop.att.yahoo.com>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If my antediluvian memory cells are functioning at all, I believe that's because modern metallics use a larger 'metal' 
flake, thus needing the clear to smooth and protect.  Single-stage metallics of long ago used a more finely-ground flake 
and, possibly, could even be sanded and polished (not sure about that).  Of course, the earlier metallics could not be 
made as garish as some of the modern stuff.  Metallic paints were around a long time before 2-stage paint systems.

I believe, but can't prove, that 2-stage paint systems became popular not just because of the glossy look, but they 
allowed the manufacturers to use much less base/color paint which is more expensive, due to the solids, than a clear.  A 
new car's paint is primer, just enough base to cover the primer, and a thick coat of clear that can be sanded and 
polished if necessary.

In a 2-stage job, the clear has to be applied within a half-hour or so after the base--if you've got orange peel or 
fisheye in the base too bad, unless you wait until it dries to sand it off and start over.

Bob


On 1/27/2013 12:02 PM, john spaur wrote:
> I was told base coat clear systems are required for metallic colors. However, I never researched it. It may have been 
> a requirement with the particular metallic color I used which was Aston Martin almond pearl green.
>
> John
>
> At 12:49 PM 1/27/2013 -0500, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>> How about a discussion of the pros & cons of current paint product types &
>> brands available today? Of particular interest to me, in the category of base
>> coat, clear coat products, are there some types or brands that produce a
>> harder, more chip resistant finish than others?
>> Thanks,
>> Gary Hodson
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 13:47:20 2013
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	<51058424.5090805@comcast.net>
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 21:39:59 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] off list for a while
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Quick recovery Ira.

Gergo

2013/1/27 Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>

> Ira,
>   Take good care of yourself, get well and back in that Healey real
> soon.
> Ray Juncal
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>  From: Bob Spidell
> <bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
> Cc: Ahealey help
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2013 11:46 AM
> Subject: Re:
> [Healeys] off list for a while
>
> Ira,
>
> Here's wishing you a speedy recovery.
> Bob
>
>
> On 1/27/2013 11:33 AM, I Erbs wrote:
> > Howdy all,
> >   I'm going in  for
> surgery tomorrow and have changed to digest format for a
> > while. Hopefully
> just a week. It should take 3-4 months for me to be well
> > enough to get back
> to my car in time to get it back on the road this
> > summer. I have prostate
> cancer with fantastic prognosis for recovery. Not
> > trying to generate a lot
> of email, just keeping you all in the loop. You
> > all have become a part of my
> extended family.
> > Happy Drives and garage time to you all.
> > Cheers
> > Ira
> Erbs
> > Portland, OR
> >     _______                                  _______
> >
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
> >
> (_________________________)
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob
> Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 13:49:19 2013
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Hang in there, Ira.  We're with you.

Mike in Seattle
BN2
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 12:49:55 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8CFCACDC6FC077B-178C-2728E@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20130127115808.01fff810@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<51058E54.10104@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The metallic flakes in the particular color I choose are very fine. 
The final finish is not achieved until the clear coat is sanded and 
polished. When I watched the finishing process there did not seem to 
be a half-hour limitation.

John

At 12:30 PM 1/27/2013 -0800, Bob Spidell wrote:
>If my antediluvian memory cells are functioning at all, I believe 
>that's because modern metallics use a larger 'metal' flake, thus 
>needing the clear to smooth and protect.  Single-stage metallics of 
>long ago used a more finely-ground flake and, possibly, could even 
>be sanded and polished (not sure about that).  Of course, the 
>earlier metallics could not be made as garish as some of the modern 
>stuff.  Metallic paints were around a long time before 2-stage paint systems.
>
>I believe, but can't prove, that 2-stage paint systems became 
>popular not just because of the glossy look, but they allowed the 
>manufacturers to use much less base/color paint which is more 
>expensive, due to the solids, than a clear.  A new car's paint is 
>primer, just enough base to cover the primer, and a thick coat of 
>clear that can be sanded and polished if necessary.
>
>In a 2-stage job, the clear has to be applied within a half-hour or 
>so after the base--if you've got orange peel or fisheye in the base 
>too bad, unless you wait until it dries to sand it off and start over.
>
>Bob
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 15:06:35 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 23:00:19 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <healeyguy@bredband.net>
Organization: Hemma
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:10.0.1)
	Gecko/20120208 Thunderbird/10.0.1
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20130127035501.18027.qmail@server278.com>
	<5104A86D.7000005@comcast.net>
	<CAFBXTkLtfjOXZ1nR1nN3RdX-4KcCsub8RcfX4SYbcpNKvyd4HA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, to me an otter is an animal living near running water, eating fish 
and playing all the time.

Per

Alan Seigrist skrev 2013-01-27 13:46:
> Bob -
>
> You're confused.  It's not that switch you are talking about, it's the
> otter one.
>
> Alan
>
> On Sunday, January 27, 2013, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
>> That's easy ... it's the one you 'otter' turn on.
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:13:37 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: jjsandsms@cs.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Correct finish for throttle linkage BJ8??
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All throttle linkage pieces on the BJ8 should be grey zinc finish.


On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 1:18 AM, <jjsandsms@cs.com> wrote:

> What is the correct finish for the throttle linkage on the firewall on BJ8
> Phase 2?  Where they painted, plated (zinc?) or what? Thanks
>
>
> jjs 64 BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 19:57:26 2013
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: <bspidell@comcast.net>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 02:52:09 +0000
References: <510564BD.6030106@comcast.net>
	FILETIME=[76D2C9A0:01CDFD02]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OT:  Galloping Ghost ... condition of fasteners
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Immediately after my first full fledged vintage race weekend in 1984 I learned
that under race conditions, things wear out and break exponentially.  In those
days I drove my Healey to the track. After the second day of racing my front
brake pads were gone (but I didn't know it yet) and as I drove to the Safeway
store to get something for dinner that evening, it went metal to metal.

Things that will last 20 to 30 thousand miles under normal street driving
conditions will wear out or break in a matter of hours under hard racing.
Fasteners will come loose. That's why we safety wire and paint mark bolt
heads.  Racers inspect their cars constantly for cracks, leaks and loose
fittings.  Just like pilots.

 Even with our street Healeys, we should be occasionally checking fasteners on
the motor mounts, front and rear shocks. Checking for play in the wheel
bearings and tie rod ends.

Richard

> Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 09:32:45 -0800
> From: bspidell@comcast.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] OT:  Galloping Ghost ...
>
> ... was the highly-modified P-51D that crashed at the Reno Air Races in
2011, killing the pilot and 10 spectators, and
> injuring many others.  I just finished reading a 'Plane & Pilot' article
summarizing the NTSB's determination of the
> cause of the crash: six small screws holding the elevator trim tabs to their
hinges had come loose, two had broken
> allowing one of the tabs to separate causing loss of control with extreme
G-loading causing pilot incapacitation.  The
> NTSB determined that that screws had come loose in their locknuts, which had
some sort of insert (usually, these are the
> locknuts with metal inserts, but I've seen the 'nylock' type used as well).
The plane had extensive and, presumably,
> expensive speed mods including a 'boil-off' cooling system that let the
alcohol/water coolant boil and vaporize in order
> to cool the engine.
>
> Bottom line: the plane, with probably hundreds of thousands if not millions
of dollars worth of mods, was brought down
> by a few bucks' worth of screws and locknuts (and, though it was unsaid in
the article, it can be assumed sloppy or
> inattentive maintenance).
>
> Healey content?  Next time you're bolting (or screwing) something up on your
Healey give some thought to the
> appropriateness and condition of the fasteners you're using and their proper
installation.
>
> Bob
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 19:58:23 2013
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 02:53:28 +0000
References: <20130127035501.18027.qmail@server278.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
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Well, since ignorance seems to be my strong suite, I'll ask... What the hell
is an otter valve?

Bill Lawrence

> From: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 03:55:01 +0000
> Subject: [Healeys] automatic choke
>
> i am not going to be the first to display my ignorance of an "otter switch".
i will let someone have that experience.
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 20:11:48 2013
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in the early 80s four thunderbirds in their T-38 slammed into the ground north of las vegas, killing all four.  investigation revealed a nut had come off and lodged in the elevator bellcrank on the lead aircraft.  he was unable to apply enough g force to pull out of the dive.  a 2 cent cotter pin had not been put in the bolt and the nut came off, falling into the bellcrank.  if it calls for a pin, put it in.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 20:14:33 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
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Bill
Well an otter valve may be the part of the plumbing that keeps otters from
soiling their lair. However the otter switch is the device that turns the
automatic choke (thermo choke, Auxiliary Enrichment Device, etc) on and off in
Jags, Austin Healeys, MGCs and other British cars during a moment of
engineering genius in the British Car Industry.
Aloha
Perry.



-----Original Message-----
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: healeymanjim <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>; healeys
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jan 27, 2013 9:53 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke


Well, since ignorance seems to be my strong suite, I'll ask... What the hell
s an otter valve?
Bill Lawrence
> From: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
 To: healeys@autox.team.net
 Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 03:55:01 +0000
 Subject: [Healeys] automatic choke

 i am not going to be the first to display my ignorance of an "otter switch".
 will let someone have that experience.
 _______________________________________________



-----Original Message-----
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: healeymanjim <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>; healeys
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jan 27, 2013 9:53 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke


Well, since ignorance seems to be my strong suite, I'll ask... What the hell
s an otter valve?
Bill Lawrence
> From: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
 To: healeys@autox.team.net
 Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 03:55:01 +0000
 Subject: [Healeys] automatic choke

 i am not going to be the first to display my ignorance of an "otter switch".
 will let someone have that experience.
 _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 20:24:54 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 11:10:42 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All -

Actually, the otter switch has a technical connection with Westlake head in
the Healey.

Ok, you know the bit in the head where the water temperature sender goes
into the engine?  On most 3000s the temperature sender is difficult to get
to because there's this square hunk of water gallery located directly above
the temp sender. That's because this bit of water gallery was designed to
take the Lucas otter switch for the AED.  Prior to this "developmental
improvement", the Westlake head didn't have this water pocket above the
temperature sender, and the sender is MUCH easier to access as a result.
 That means BN6s and some early 3000s had Westlake heads without the water
gallery pocket for the otter switch.

So, next time you are boogering up the temp sender bolt head, you can blame
Lucas and their otter switch (which was famous for its cutting-edge
intermittent-function technology).

Best,

Alan

On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 10:53 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>wrote:

> Well, since ignorance seems to be my strong suite, I'll ask... What the
> hell
> is an otter valve?
>
> Bill Lawrence
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
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My '69 XKE has an otter switch, the thermostatically controlled switch 
for the electric radiator fans.  Perhaps the thermostatic feature makes 
it an otter switch.  I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with cute 
furry critters that like to swim.
Charlie


On 1/27/2013 9:53 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> Well, since ignorance seems to be my strong suite, I'll ask... What the hell
> is an otter valve?
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
>> From: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 03:55:01 +0000
>> Subject: [Healeys] automatic choke
>>
>> i am not going to be the first to display my ignorance of an "otter switch".
> i will let someone have that experience.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 20:26:01 2013
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i have used both base/clear and single stage.  i like the single stage as it not as "glassy" as base/clear, and is easy to put on.  i used a quart of the cheapest single stage i could find for first coat, figuring i would find plenty of places i had to do over.  it came out fine and all i had to do was buff it in a few places.  i think the quart cost me about 25 bucks, plus the hardner and thinner, less than 100 bucks overall.  i am not counting the primer, sandpaper, etc, as i have lots of that around.  BTW, has anyone used the new water based primer.  my brother gave me a quart and said it works great, but i am a little afraid of using it on something like my healey.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 20:26:36 2013
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From: <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
To: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 03:21:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?paint?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

i also find that there is too much metallic in the modern paints.  i asked my paint guy to cut the metallic by 50% and i like the look a lot better. 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 20:39:52 2013
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <healeyguy@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 03:30:16 +0000
References: <8CFCB1C08BBBE37-B14-2C4E4@Webmail-d116.sysops.aol.com>
	FILETIME=[CA7BECD0:01CDFD07]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you Perry,

I had a pretty good idea of it's description and function from context, so I
guess the real question is about nomenclature...

Bill Lawrence

> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> From: healeyguy@aol.com
> Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 22:09:35 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
>
> Bill
> Well an otter valve may be the part of the plumbing that keeps otters from
> soiling their lair. However the otter switch is the device that turns the
> automatic choke (thermo choke, Auxiliary Enrichment Device, etc) on and off
in
> Jags, Austin Healeys, MGCs and other British cars during a moment of
> engineering genius in the British Car Industry.
> Aloha
> Perry.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
> To: healeymanjim <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>; healeys
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Jan 27, 2013 9:53 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
>
>
> Well, since ignorance seems to be my strong suite, I'll ask... What the
hell
> s an otter valve?
> Bill Lawrence
> > From: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
>  To: healeys@autox.team.net
>  Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 03:55:01 +0000
>  Subject: [Healeys] automatic choke
>
>  i am not going to be the first to display my ignorance of an "otter
switch".
>  will let someone have that experience.
>  _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
> To: healeymanjim <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>; healeys
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Jan 27, 2013 9:53 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
>
>
> Well, since ignorance seems to be my strong suite, I'll ask... What the
hell
> s an otter valve?
> Bill Lawrence
> > From: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
>  To: healeys@autox.team.net
>  Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 03:55:01 +0000
>  Subject: [Healeys] automatic choke
>
>  i am not going to be the first to display my ignorance of an "otter
switch".
>  will let someone have that experience.
>  _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 21:57:42 2013
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	Sun, 27 Jan 2013 22:52:29 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: <healeyguy@aol.com>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8CFCB1C08BBBE37-B14-2C4E4@Webmail-d116.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 23:52:29 -0500
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQGuz8FvlLthS7W9Nlmz7tUstLvktpichneA
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You can see one at:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROVER-JAGUAR-ALVIS-GENUINE-NEW-original-OTTER-SWITCH
-/140900046892?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20ce4c182c

or:

http://tinyurl.com/bz7zynt


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeyguy@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2013 10:10 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke

Bill
Well an otter valve may be the part of the plumbing that keeps otters from
soiling their lair. However the otter switch is the device that turns the
automatic choke (thermo choke, Auxiliary Enrichment Device, etc) on and off
in Jags, Austin Healeys, MGCs and other British cars during a moment of
engineering genius in the British Car Industry.
Aloha
Perry.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 05:12:43 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Lodge <emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Surely a water otter is a kettle?............................................I
know, sorry!

Regards, Lodge, BJ8, in currently water-abundant Vancouver.

---
On Mon, 28/1/13, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote:

> From:
Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic
choke
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, 28 January, 2013, 3:14
> My
'69 XKE has an otter switch, the
> thermostatically controlled switch 
> for
the electric radiator fans.  Perhaps the
> thermostatic feature makes 
> it an
otter switch.  I'm pretty sure it has nothing to
> do with cute 
> furry
critters that like to swim.
> Charlie
> 
> 
> On 1/27/2013 9:53 PM, WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE wrote:
> > Well, since ignorance seems to be my strong suite, I'll
>
ask... What the hell
> > is an otter valve?
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> >>
From: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
> >> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >> Date:
Sun, 27 Jan 2013 03:55:01 +0000
> >> Subject: [Healeys] automatic choke
> >>
>
>> i am not going to be the first to display my
> ignorance of an "otter
switch".
> > i will let someone have that experience.
> >>
_______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>>
> >> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
> >
_______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie@comcast.net
>
_______________________________________________
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
>
Healeys@autox.team.net
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> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/emmgeeteecee@yahoo.co.uk
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 23:03:40 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 22:55:42 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:18.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1359349963.39047.YahooMailClassic@web171805.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I otter just shut down this list until you folks settle down!

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 01:46:16 2013
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	<002401cdfd13$471b2660$d5517320$@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 16:38:40 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey John -

Thanks for this!

The great thing about getting these NOS Otter switches ... is when you open
the box and pull the switch out out of its protective plastic bag, you can
save yourself a great deal of time and effort by throwing it away first,
before installing it on your car.

Best Regards,

Alan

On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 12:52 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

> You can see one at:
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROVER-JAGUAR-ALVIS-GENUINE-NEW-original-OTTER-SWITCH
> -/140900046892?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20ce4c182c
>
> or:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/bz7zynt
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of healeyguy@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2013 10:10 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
>
> Bill
> Well an otter valve may be the part of the plumbing that keeps otters from
> soiling their lair. However the otter switch is the device that turns the
> automatic choke (thermo choke, Auxiliary Enrichment Device, etc) on and off
> in Jags, Austin Healeys, MGCs and other British cars during a moment of
> engineering genius in the British Car Industry.
> Aloha
> Perry.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 06:22:23 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 05:13:47 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "ATIGHTPROD@aol.com" <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Healey-Just Sir Sterling Moss
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This was a really enjoyable program, thanks for posting.  There's also an
equally good one in the same series on Jackie Stewart:
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M09A3Iu-qfk



Rick


"Madman in a death
machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: "ATIGHTPROD@aol.com"
<ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, January 24,
2013 8:35 PM
Subject: [Healeys] No Healey-Just Sir Sterling Moss
 
This video
link was posted to my facebook page and so I went and took a  
look. I think
it's really, really good. It's almost an hour long and kept me  
interested
all the way so I thought I'd pass it along. Enjoy.
_http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8_
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8) 

Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 07:08:00 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 8:55:00 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just had to replace the "otter" on my 66 E--the first only lasted 43 years:)


---- Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
My '69 XKE has an otter switch, the thermostatically controlled switch 
for the electric radiator fans.  Perhaps the thermostatic feature makes 
it an otter switch.  I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with cute 
furry critters that like to swim.
Charlie
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 07:38:36 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 08:25:28 -0600
From: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Otter Switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

Thanks for the link. I have a blanking plate on my BT7 in the rear of the
engine that looks just like the mounting for a switch like

The "electrical choke" on the XK140, and it never worked, at least in
Madison, Wisconsin.

Jack


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 23:52:29 -0500
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: <healeyguy@aol.com>,        <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] automatic choke
d5517320$@verizon.net>

You can see one at:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROVER-JAGUAR-ALVIS-GENUINE-NEW-original-OTTER-SWITCH
-/140900046892?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20ce4c182c<http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROVER-JAGUAR-ALVIS-GENUINE-NEW-original-OTTER-SWITCH-/140900046892?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20ce4c182c>

or:

http://tinyurl.com/bz7zynt


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 08:26:38 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] paints
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So far most of the comments have been in favor of single stage because it
looks more like the original paint or is cheaper. At Conclave for instance, I
am not sure I can distinguish between cars painted with a single stage paint &
ones painted with a base coat/clear coat system. I can identify cars with
excellent paint jobs from ones with lower quality paint jobs, but that is
something completely different. An anecdotal or is it an empirical example: A
friend in our local Healey club has been telling us for years that his car was
painted with a single stage paint. It is a high quality paint job. We all
thought the paint looked "original". After a recent accident, the body shop
told him that his car had a base coat/clear coat paint job. The owner was as
surprised as the rest of us. The shop was able to match the paint
(non-metallic) exactly & we cannot tell which panels have been repainted &
which have not.

Not much about hardness/chip resistance. Recently, I saw a frame being painted
black with Dupont Imron which I read is a polyester enamel, what ever that is.
It looked beautiful. I was told it was chosen because it is very hard/chip
resistant. Comments?
Thanks,
Gary
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 08:27:44 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:22:39 -0600
To: Jack Feldman <qualitas.jack@gmail.com>,healeys@autox.team.net
From: Peter Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>
	mail.com>
References: <CAGhWe-f3HMsdj4WBwvkWuST1TUZ-z6e0zn-piD6xPHsrpuwscw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Otter Switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

At 08:25 AM 1/28/2013, Jack Feldman wrote:
>John,
>
>Thanks for the link. I have a blanking plate on my BT7 in the rear of the
>engine that looks just like the mounting for a switch like
>
>The "electrical choke" on the XK140, and it never worked, at least in
>Madison, Wisconsin.
>
>Jack
-------------
Not many things work in Madison Wisconsin, including me, at the moment.

My Land Rovers have an otter switch to turn a choke warning light on 
when engine temp is up and the cable is out. On diesel Landies it is 
a glow plug light.

Those otters get around!


Peter C 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 09:11:56 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 08:04:02 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] HS-4 choke free play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On the HS-4 carburetor there is about 1/2" of rotational movement in 
the choke lever before it will start to move the jet.

I am wondering how the choke cables should be adjusted to account for 
the free play.

Should the levers be moved to the point just before they start to 
move the jets and then tighten the cables so there is not any slack?

Adjust the cables to there is a little slack?

What is recommended for ease of operation on the chock?

Thank you,
John Spaur
San Jose, CA
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 09:42:00 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'john spaur'" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130127213336.01fe1488@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:31:28 -0700
Thread-index: Ac39cgN5/3JNrHydTv2abw/LGuUxEAAAsZGA
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS-4 choke free play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The more the jet moves the more the choke works.. as usual, more is better..
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 9:04 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] HS-4 choke free play

On the HS-4 carburetor there is about 1/2" of rotational movement in 
the choke lever before it will start to move the jet.

I am wondering how the choke cables should be adjusted to account for 
the free play.

Should the levers be moved to the point just before they start to 
move the jets and then tighten the cables so there is not any slack?

Adjust the cables to there is a little slack?

What is recommended for ease of operation on the chock?

Thank you,
John Spaur
San Jose, CA
'62 BT7
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 09:59:37 2013
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From: "Dick Matson" <medlabinc@msn.com>
To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 08:48:41 -0800
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 08:48:42 -0800
	FILETIME=[54191D40:01CDFD77]
Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  HS-4 choke free play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I recently got a report saying now it turns out that more is actually more.

Dick Matson / WA State


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS-4 choke free play


The more the jet moves the more the choke works.. as usual, more is better..
dave


Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 10:15:02 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Dick Matson'" <medlabinc@msn.com>, "'AustinHealey List'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <COL125-DS16FC1B10022805972992E8A2180@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 10:08:55 -0700
Thread-index: Ac39eC7/+6sKFGHhQ++F7ug42KpfQQAAdx6w
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw:  HS-4 choke free play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Indubitably. 

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dick Matson
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 9:49 AM
To: AustinHealey List
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: HS-4 choke free play

I recently got a report saying now it turns out that more is actually more.

Dick Matson / WA State


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS-4 choke free play


The more the jet moves the more the choke works.. as usual, more is better..
dave


Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 11:50:15 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw:  HS-4 choke free play
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I believe the choke cable on HS carbs actually performs two separate functions
as it is pulled out.
First is fast idle. Second is enrichment, I.E. choke.
If you adjust the cable such that is just beginning to move the main jet, then
you will always have the carb set to fast idle.
As I recall, the work shop manual explains the correct adjustment of the choke
cable. It goes something like this: With no fast idle & no choke, I.E. the
linkage & cable NOT engaging either fast idle or choke, the dash choke knob
should be approx. 1/16" away from the dash. This slight gap will assure that
when you release the choke/fast idle that there is no residual tension on the
cable.
The manual does a lot better job of explaining this. If you do not have one,
you should.
Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 17:07:47 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 15:55:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Bob Brown <blkbt7@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: David Ayer <dbayer@swbell.net>, Tim Moran <timoran@verizon.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Texas Engine Rebuilder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Texas friends,
Got a call today from a Healey(BJ7) owner in the Dallas area looking for a shop 
to rebuild his engine. I'm in Chicago and have a recommendation near me. 
However, I'd like to offer suggestions of a shop closer to north Texas. Any 
recommendations or warnings?
Thanks
Bob
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <1359417339.58791.YahooMailRC@web181002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 16:33:00 -0800
To: Bob Brown <blkbt7@yahoo.com>
Cc: David Ayer <dbayer@swbell.net>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	Tim Moran <timoran@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Texas Engine Rebuilder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

there are several shops all over the country and they are all only a  
transporter away.

The most important thing is have a shop the knows Healey's do it.  
There are a lot of things that we have learned over the years of  
building these engines.

We have had people pull there engines and transmissions and shipped  
them out to us. We rebuild them and then they install the engine. If  
he is looking to remove and install the engine.





David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy	
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Jan 28, 2013, at 3:55 PM, Bob Brown wrote:

> Texas friends,
> Got a call today from a Healey(BJ7) owner in the Dallas area  
> looking for a shop
> to rebuild his engine. I'm in Chicago and have a recommendation  
> near me.
> However, I'd like to offer suggestions of a shop closer to north  
> Texas. Any
> recommendations or warnings?
> Thanks
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 18:38:51 2013
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From: Jim Lesher <cleona44@hotmail.com>
To: Bob Yule <autofarm@cyg.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:32:53 -0500
References: <648295DDAFAD4508B7F6E9C94EDA83C8@OFFICE>
	FILETIME=[8F1F1720:01CDFDC0]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] auctions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob - a couple of fellas from the Phila region of AHSTC went and at the Jan
meeting passed out a excel list of the auctions, car auction #'s and the sale
prices. I will check my circular file and send it you in a couple of days jim
how is the weather?
 > From: autofarm@xplornet.ca
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 14:45:34 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] auctions
>
>     Has anybody been able to find a list of the Healeys sold at the
Scotsdale
> auctions recently?  All the auction house web sites are proving impossible
to
> navigate, for me anyway.
> Cheers.......Bob
> Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44@hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 18:56:10 2013
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From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Jim Lesher'" <cleona44@hotmail.com>, "'Bob Yule'"
	<autofarm@cyg.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <648295DDAFAD4508B7F6E9C94EDA83C8@OFFICE>
	<SNT002-W1578D5B245D007CF4C0FC4AC51F0@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 12:50:55 +1100
Thread-index: Ac39wLs1KxZRCoudTu2XbLYPyC34uAAAZ33Q
Subject: Re: [Healeys] auctions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

Please find below a few paragraphs I wrote for our next AH magazine about
the 3 Austin-Healeys and 1 Nash-Healey that sold at the Gooding's Scottsdale
auction.

The first car was a 1955 100 BN1 fitted with a Le Mans kit. Erroneously
labelled as a 100M, to a well trained eye there were a few things awry with
the car. Nevertheless bidding was spirited and US$82,500 (Aus$79,135) later
it was sold. The next car of interest was a recently restored genuine Old
English White 100M with known history. Again bidding was spirited, but
slowed towards the end with the car realising US$154,000 (Aus$147,715). What
I found amusing during the bidding was that a Gooding employee walked
amongst bidders distributing bags of popcorn.

Next was a BJ8 that was described as "one of the best in the country, if not
the world." Originally Healey Blue with blue trim it was sold new in Germany
and found its way to the US where it was restored. It is finished in
Opalescent Maroon and tan trim, which I think didn't do the car justice,
however that's just a personal opinion. It's price? US$104,500
(Aus$100,230)! So perhaps some think the same as I do.

The last car of interest was a 1953 Nash-Healey Roadster in very bright red,
which was probably nothing like its original colour. It sold for a healthy
US$115,500 (Aus$110,780).

Hoo Roo

Patrick

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Lesher
Sent: Tuesday, 29 January 2013 12:33 PM
To: Bob Yule; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] auctions

Bob - a couple of fellas from the Phila region of AHSTC went and at the Jan
meeting passed out a excel list of the auctions, car auction #'s and the
sale
prices. I will check my circular file and send it you in a couple of days
jim
how is the weather?
 > From: autofarm@xplornet.ca
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 14:45:34 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] auctions
>
>     Has anybody been able to find a list of the Healeys sold at the
Scotsdale
> auctions recently?  All the auction house web sites are proving impossible
to
> navigate, for me anyway.
> Cheers.......Bob
> Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 20:47:03 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 19:24:30 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130127213336.01fe1488@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<5C612766734740C2AF56BC3257DDA847@oscar>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS-4 choke free play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If the choke function is achieved by moving the jet down, the choke 
lever can only move the jet down about 1/4" which is the limit of 
its' travel; at least on an HS-4 carb.

At 09:31 AM 1/28/2013 -0700, David Porter wrote:
>The more the jet moves the more the choke works.. as usual, more is better..
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 21:27:28 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:14:03 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <COL125-DS16FC1B10022805972992E8A2180@phx.gbl>
	<8CFCB9EB3A5C3F2-1D74-32A89@webmail-d100.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw:  HS-4 choke free play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have an SU workshop manual, which does not deal with setting the 
choke, one BMC reprint of the shop manual and two original factory 
service manuals. No shortage of manuals. Section DDD.6, which is for 
the HS-4 carb, are issue 4 and issue 1 (36201).

In section DDD.6 there is no mention of 1/16" clearance for the choke 
cable or anything about residual tension on the choke cable. The 
manual does mention this issue in relation to the throttle 
butterfly's and spindles.

However, upon reading the manual more closely, it states that the 
choke knob should move about 5/8", without moving the jets, and then 
the fast idle is set to 1,000 rpm hot. That's the answer to my question!

John Spaur

At 01:44 PM 1/28/2013 -0500, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>I believe the choke cable on HS carbs actually performs two separate functions
>as it is pulled out.
>First is fast idle. Second is enrichment, I.E. choke.
>If you adjust the cable such that is just beginning to move the main jet, then
>you will always have the carb set to fast idle.
>As I recall, the work shop manual explains the correct adjustment of the choke
>cable. It goes something like this: With no fast idle & no choke, I.E. the
>linkage & cable NOT engaging either fast idle or choke, the dash choke knob
>should be approx. 1/16" away from the dash. This slight gap will assure that
>when you release the choke/fast idle that there is no residual tension on the
>cable.
>The manual does a lot better job of explaining this. If you do not have one,
>you should.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 21:28:12 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:19:49 -0800
To: warthodson@aol.com
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20130128031724.24289.qmail@server278.com>
	<8CFCB822C471777-23B8-2F061@webmail-m062.sysops.aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] paints
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There is probably more to hardness and chip resistance that just the 
type of paint. When Healey's were factory painted I would presume the 
paint was applied over primed metal with very little, if any, bondo 
or whatever product they used to smooth over minor dings. Most likely lead.

The restorers that I am familiar with want to coat the metal with a 
polyester product similar to bondo. I think that material is very 
soft. So the material under the paint can affect overall hardness of 
the finish.

John

At 10:20 AM 1/28/2013 -0500, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>Not much about hardness/chip resistance. Recently, I saw a frame being painted
>black with Dupont Imron which I read is a polyester enamel, what ever that is.
>It looked beautiful. I was told it was chosen because it is very hard/chip
>resistant. Comments?
>Thanks,
>Gary
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 01:48:38 2013
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References: <648295DDAFAD4508B7F6E9C94EDA83C8@OFFICE>
	<SNT002-W1578D5B245D007CF4C0FC4AC51F0@phx.gbl>
	<2B21135596734D63A1A18A4CC3F81E09@PatrickQuinnPC>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 08:41:58 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] auctions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mindboggling that someone would pay 104,000 for a BJ8!

Derek


On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 1:50 AM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
> Please find below a few paragraphs I wrote for our next AH magazine about
> the 3 Austin-Healeys and 1 Nash-Healey that sold at the Gooding's
> Scottsdale
> auction.
>
> The first car was a 1955 100 BN1 fitted with a Le Mans kit. Erroneously
> labelled as a 100M, to a well trained eye there were a few things awry with
> the car. Nevertheless bidding was spirited and US$82,500 (Aus$79,135) later
> it was sold. The next car of interest was a recently restored genuine Old
> English White 100M with known history. Again bidding was spirited, but
> slowed towards the end with the car realising US$154,000 (Aus$147,715).
> What
> I found amusing during the bidding was that a Gooding employee walked
> amongst bidders distributing bags of popcorn.
>
> Next was a BJ8 that was described as "one of the best in the country, if
> not
> the world." Originally Healey Blue with blue trim it was sold new in
> Germany
> and found its way to the US where it was restored. It is finished in
> Opalescent Maroon and tan trim, which I think didn't do the car justice,
> however that's just a personal opinion. It's price? US$104,500
> (Aus$100,230)! So perhaps some think the same as I do.
>
> The last car of interest was a 1953 Nash-Healey Roadster in very bright
> red,
> which was probably nothing like its original colour. It sold for a healthy
> US$115,500 (Aus$110,780).
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Jim Lesher
> Sent: Tuesday, 29 January 2013 12:33 PM
> To: Bob Yule; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] auctions
>
> Bob - a couple of fellas from the Phila region of AHSTC went and at the Jan
> meeting passed out a excel list of the auctions, car auction #'s and the
> sale
> prices. I will check my circular file and send it you in a couple of days
> jim
> how is the weather?
>  > From: autofarm@xplornet.ca
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 14:45:34 -0500
> > Subject: [Healeys] auctions
> >
> >     Has anybody been able to find a list of the Healeys sold at the
> Scotsdale
> > auctions recently?  All the auction house web sites are proving
> impossible
> to
> > navigate, for me anyway.
> > Cheers.......Bob
> > Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 02:20:29 2013
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From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Derek Job'" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
References: <648295DDAFAD4508B7F6E9C94EDA83C8@OFFICE><SNT002-W1578D5B245D007CF4C0FC4AC51F0@phx.gbl><2B21135596734D63A1A18A4CC3F81E09@PatrickQuinnPC>
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 20:08:49 +1100
Thread-index: Ac39/IWudI2/E7S3QrWlODuKpIkPYgAA7TdA
Cc: 'Forum' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] auctions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

There are a couple of BJ8s for sale in Australia right now for Aus$125,000
or US$130,735 using today's exchange rate.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

 

 

  _____  

From: Derek Job [mailto:derek.c.job@gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, 29 January 2013 7:42 PM
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Cc: Jim Lesher; Bob Yule; Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] auctions

 

Mindboggling that someone would pay 104,000 for a BJ8!

 

Derek

 

On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 1:50 AM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn
<p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

G'day

Please find below a few paragraphs I wrote for our next AH magazine about
the 3 Austin-Healeys and 1 Nash-Healey that sold at the Gooding's Scottsdale
auction.

The first car was a 1955 100 BN1 fitted with a Le Mans kit. Erroneously
labelled as a 100M, to a well trained eye there were a few things awry with
the car. Nevertheless bidding was spirited and US$82,500 (Aus$79,135) later
it was sold. The next car of interest was a recently restored genuine Old
English White 100M with known history. Again bidding was spirited, but
slowed towards the end with the car realising US$154,000 (Aus$147,715). What
I found amusing during the bidding was that a Gooding employee walked
amongst bidders distributing bags of popcorn.

Next was a BJ8 that was described as "one of the best in the country, if not
the world." Originally Healey Blue with blue trim it was sold new in Germany
and found its way to the US where it was restored. It is finished in
Opalescent Maroon and tan trim, which I think didn't do the car justice,
however that's just a personal opinion. It's price? US$104,500
(Aus$100,230)! So perhaps some think the same as I do.

The last car of interest was a 1953 Nash-Healey Roadster in very bright red,
which was probably nothing like its original colour. It sold for a healthy
US$115,500 (Aus$110,780).

Hoo Roo

Patrick


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Lesher
Sent: Tuesday, 29 January 2013 12:33 PM
To: Bob Yule; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] auctions

Bob - a couple of fellas from the Phila region of AHSTC went and at the Jan
meeting passed out a excel list of the auctions, car auction #'s and the
sale
prices. I will check my circular file and send it you in a couple of days
jim
how is the weather?
 > From: autofarm@xplornet.ca
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 14:45:34 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] auctions
>
>     Has anybody been able to find a list of the Healeys sold at the
Scotsdale
> auctions recently?  All the auction house web sites are proving impossible
to
> navigate, for me anyway.
> Cheers.......Bob
> Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 04:43:49 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
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Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] auctions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Agreed!   They should go for at least a half-million.

Bob
BJ8 I'll let go for a bargain $400,000


On 1/29/2013 12:41 AM, Derek Job wrote:
> Mindboggling that someone would pay 104,000 for a BJ8!
>
> Derek
>
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 06:55:03 2013
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From: healeyguy@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 08:42:14 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] paints - Imron
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary
I used to use Imron in the late 70's/ early 80's and can say that my
experiences where not that good. Product produces a very smooth, hard finish
but you can't do anything to it should there be any flaws in the paint. Forget
minor repairs for runs or chips. Paint strippers hardly touch the stuff.
Couple that to some of the worst paint fumes that could be generated at the
time, I swore off using it.  Boat repair shops liked using Imron on hulls but
I'm not sure that is still the case.
Aloha
Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: warthodson <warthodson@aol.com>

I saw a frame being painted black with Dupont Imron which I read is a
polyester enamel, what ever that is.
t looked beautiful. I was told it was chosen because it is very hard/chip
esistant. Comments?
hanks,
ary
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 07:41:10 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: <healeyguy@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20130128031724.24289.qmail@server278.com><8CFCB822C471777-23B8-2F061@webmail-m062.sysops.aol.com>
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 07:32:31 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac3+J4mj6u3mHUlKR5WOo34eN7wZ/AABNXvQ
Subject: Re: [Healeys] paints - Imron
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Perry,
 I disagree. I've been using Imron for the last 40 years. Repairs are
possible and it can be buffed out as the new base/clear blends. It can be
removed with strippers. Problem now is that DuPont is shrinking many of the
Imron blends and reformulating with new toners and catalysis's, so most of
my stock is becoming obsolete.. so thousands of bucks down the drain..
sigh.. Imron is a urethane (plastic like, in essence).
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

cars:
 www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeyguy@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 6:42 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] paints - Imron

Gary
I used to use Imron in the late 70's/ early 80's and can say that my
experiences where not that good. Product produces a very smooth, hard finish
but you can't do anything to it should there be any flaws in the paint.
Forget
minor repairs for runs or chips. Paint strippers hardly touch the stuff.
Couple that to some of the worst paint fumes that could be generated at the
time, I swore off using it.  Boat repair shops liked using Imron on hulls
but
I'm not sure that is still the case.
Aloha
Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: warthodson <warthodson@aol.com>

I saw a frame being painted black with Dupont Imron which I read is a
polyester enamel, what ever that is.
t looked beautiful. I was told it was chosen because it is very hard/chip
esistant. Comments?
hanks,
ary
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 09:44:24 2013
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 11:36:42 -0500
From: ggilliam@usol.com
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/0.8.1
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite on ebay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just saw this listing of a Bur Eye Sprite barn find in the Phoenix 
area:

  A morris minor also...

ebay.com/ebaymotors/Austin-Healey-Sprite-Bugeye-No-Reserve-/140909292220?item=140909292220&ViewItem=&forcev4exp=true
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To: ggilliam@usol.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite on ebay
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Link doesn't work for me. 




-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: ggilliam@usol.com 
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 8:36:42 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite on ebay 

Just saw this listing of a Bur Eye Sprite barn find in the Phoenix 
area: 

A morris minor also... 

ebay.com/ebaymotors/Austin-Healey-Sprite-Bugeye-No-Reserve-/140909292220?item=140909292220&ViewItem=&forcev4exp=true 
_______________________________________________ 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 

Healeys@autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 11:19:15 2013
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite on ebay
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Try this:

http://tinyurl.com/an75xq4


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 12:07 PM
To: ggilliam@usol.com
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite on ebay

Link doesn't work for me. 




--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: ggilliam@usol.com
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 8:36:42 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite on ebay 

Just saw this listing of a Bur Eye Sprite barn find in the Phoenix
area: 

A morris minor also... 

ebay.com/ebaymotors/Austin-Healey-Sprite-Bugeye-No-Reserve-/140909292220?ite
m=140909292220&ViewItem=&forcev4exp=true

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 12:34:53 2013
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 14:27:51 -0500
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] paints - Imron
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Many boat shops use Imron on hulls (topsides) and Awlgrip on houses and
decks (superstructure) because the latter areas are more likely to require
patching, etc. and Awlgrip is more easily repaired.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 9:32 AM, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>wrote:

> Perry,
>  I disagree. I've been using Imron for the last 40 years. Repairs are
> possible and it can be buffed out as the new base/clear blends. It can be
> removed with strippers. Problem now is that DuPont is shrinking many of the
> Imron blends and reformulating with new toners and catalysis's, so most of
> my stock is becoming obsolete.. so thousands of bucks down the drain..
> sigh.. Imron is a urethane (plastic like, in essence).
> dave
>
> frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
>
> cars:
>  www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html
> gallery:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
> GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of healeyguy@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 6:42 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] paints - Imron
>
> Gary
> I used to use Imron in the late 70's/ early 80's and can say that my
> experiences where not that good. Product produces a very smooth, hard
> finish
> but you can't do anything to it should there be any flaws in the paint.
> Forget
> minor repairs for runs or chips. Paint strippers hardly touch the stuff.
> Couple that to some of the worst paint fumes that could be generated at the
> time, I swore off using it.  Boat repair shops liked using Imron on hulls
> but
> I'm not sure that is still the case.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: warthodson <warthodson@aol.com>
>
> I saw a frame being painted black with Dupont Imron which I read is a
> polyester enamel, what ever that is.
> t looked beautiful. I was told it was chosen because it is very hard/chip
> esistant. Comments?
> hanks,
> ary
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 14:35:21 2013
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 13:25:18 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Surgery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy all. Came through great. Prognosis is? Excellent.
thanks to all who sent kind words. Hope to be home tomorrow.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 14:37:37 2013
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To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Surgery
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I Erbs wrote:
> Howdy all. Came through great. Prognosis is? Excellent.
> thanks to all who sent kind words. Hope to be home tomorrow.
>

Sweet!!

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 15:10:02 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Surgery
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Good news!
 
Howdy all. Came through great. Prognosis is? Excellent.
thanks to  all who sent kind words. Hope to be home tomorrow.

Ira Erbs
Portland,  OR
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 16:24:23 2013
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Cc: Austin Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Surgery
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Great to hear Ira!  Take it easy during the recovery
process.

Warm regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Historian, AHCUSA


On 29/01/2013 3:25 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> Howdy all. Came through great. Prognosis is? Excellent.
> thanks to all who sent kind words. Hope to be home tomorrow.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 21:34:01 2013
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i had a healey painted with imron back in the seventies when i was in alabama.  i did not know diddly about body work so the paint showed every flaw as it was very shiny.  it was very hard paint (used on airplanes mostly) and when it chipped there was not much i could do.  my brother bought the car and he said it was a real bear to sand off the imron for repainting.
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 8:22:56 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Surgery
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great news!
tom
---- Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote: 

=============
I Erbs wrote:
> Howdy all. Came through great. Prognosis is? Excellent.
> thanks to all who sent kind words. Hope to be home tomorrow.
>

Sweet!!

mjb.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20130130042835.29196.qmail@server278.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] imron paint
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This attribute of very hard paint is why I am planning on repainting the 
chassis of my 64 with imron.  The single stage urethane I had painted it 
with did not hold up very well; especially with my gravel driveway.  
These days I notice it is used mostly on trucks around here.

John
64/66 BJ8s
On 1/29/2013 11:28 PM, healeymanjim@hansencc.net wrote:
> i had a healey painted with imron back in the seventies when i was in alabama.  i did not know diddly about body work so the paint showed every flaw as it was very shiny.  it was very hard paint (used on airplanes mostly) and when it chipped there was not much i could do.  my brother bought the car and he said it was a real bear to sand off the imron for repainting.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 08:00:23 2013
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To: "=?utf-8?B?Sm9obiBWcnVndG1hbg==?=" <javrugtman@htcnet.org>,
	healeys@autox.team.net
From: "=?utf-8?B?cHJ5bmVyQHZlcml6b24ubmV0?=" <pryner@verizon.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 09:52:31 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?imron_paint?=
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Personally I wouldn't recommend imron.  Although hard it chips very easily.  Por 15 is a much better product for a chasis or frame.  Powder coat is also super hard and won't chip
Pete

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone

----- Reply message -----
From: "John Vrugtman" <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] imron paint
Date: Wed, Jan 30, 2013 9:22 am


This attribute of very hard paint is why I am planning on repainting the chassis of my 64 with imron.  The single stage urethane I had painted it with did not hold up very well; especially with my gravel driveway.  These days I notice it is used mostly on trucks around here.

John
64/66 BJ8s
On 1/29/2013 11:28 PM, healeymanjim@hansencc.net wrote:
> i had a healey painted with imron back in the seventies when i was in alabama.  i did not know diddly about body work so the paint showed every flaw as it was very shiny.  it was very hard paint (used on airplanes mostly) and when it chipped there was not much i could do.  my brother bought the car and he said it was a real bear to sand off the imron for repainting.
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 11:05:40 2013
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 12:52:39 -0500
thread-index: Ac3/EpgO3hF6eZpsS/KOZEsRrDA+4g==
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Subject: [Healeys] Moss Motors brake master cyl. rebuild kit
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello, Healeyphiles -
 
I have just installed a rebuild kit, Moss P/N 513-147, for the BJ8 brake
master with servo.  The rubber boot around the pushrod is too large to go
through the hole in the firewall as installed on the master cylinder neck.
The boot that I removed was obviously much thinner and marked "Girling".
Has anyone come across this problem?  
I measured the O.D. of the boot (installed) with calipers and it is just
about exactly 1-1/2".  The hole in the firewall won't pass the prongs of the
calipers at that measurement.  The difference is enough (appears to be about
1/16") that I don't see how the boot can be forced through the hole,
especially given the lack of access.
I reported the problem to Moss but am waiting for their technical section to
call me back.  A little feedback from the list would be helpful.
 
I rebuilt the clutch master as well, but it went through its hole just fine
with the new boot.
 
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 11:36:15 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 19:26:42 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Surgery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thx God!

G

2013/1/30 Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>

> great news!
> tom
> ---- Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> I Erbs wrote:
> > Howdy all. Came through great. Prognosis is? Excellent.
> > thanks to all who sent kind words. Hope to be home tomorrow.
> >
>
> Sweet!!
>
> mjb.
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 13:08:51 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 19:58:01 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss Motors brake master cyl. rebuild kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Think the last time I did that Installed the MC, then installed the boot over the pushrod from inside the footwell. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Hello, Healeyphiles - 

I have just installed a rebuild kit, Moss P/N 513-147, for the BJ8 brake 
master with servo. The rubber boot around the pushrod is too large to go 
through the hole in the firewall as installed on the master cylinder neck. 
The boot that I removed was obviously much thinner and marked "Girling". 
Has anyone come across this problem? 
I measured the O.D. of the boot (installed) with calipers and it is just 
about exactly 1-1/2". The hole in the firewall won't pass the prongs of the 
calipers at that measurement. The difference is enough (appears to be about 
1/16") that I don't see how the boot can be forced through the hole, 
especially given the lack of access. 
I reported the problem to Moss but am waiting for their technical section to 
call me back. A little feedback from the list would be helpful. 

I rebuilt the clutch master as well, but it went through its hole just fine 
with the new boot. 

Thanks, 
Steve Byers 
HBJ8L/36666 
BJ8 Registry 
Havelock, NC USA 
_______________________________________________ 
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 13:24:02 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 12:14:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] imron paint
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

While on the subject of tough paints- Google LIC40. I am using it as a dtm
tinted to the original brown primer colour then wet-on-wet overcoat with body
colour on the chassis. 

LIC40 is what bulldozers are painted in and can be
left as the final topcoat or used as a base for pretty much any modern paint
system. So far I like it a lot.

Andy.

--- On Thu, 31/1/13, John Vrugtman
<javrugtman@htcnet.org> wrote:

> From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] imron paint
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Received:
Thursday, 31 January, 2013, 3:22 AM
> This attribute of very hard paint is
>
why I am planning on repainting the chassis of my 64 with
> imron.  The single
stage urethane I had painted it with
> did not hold up very well; especially
with my gravel
> driveway.  These days I notice it is used mostly on
> trucks
around here.
> 
> John
> 64/66 BJ8s
> On 1/29/2013 11:28 PM,
healeymanjim@hansencc.net
> wrote:
> > i had a healey painted with imron back
in the seventies
> when i was in alabama.  i did not know diddly about
> body
work so the paint showed every flaw as it was very
> shiny.  it was very hard
paint (used on airplanes
> mostly) and when it chipped there was not much i
could
> do.  my brother bought the car and he said it was a
> real bear to
sand off the imron for repainting.
> >
_______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net
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> >
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> 
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > 
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman@htcnet.org
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 14:08:39 2013
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From: "Bruce Starke" <bstarke@telus.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 14:02:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sought
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi everyone, David Quiring in Saskatchewan is looking for a Healey along the 
following lines---
please contact him directly if anyone has a lead on a car that would suit 
him
thanks
Bruce Starke
Golden BC
1962 tricarb


"At this point, the ideal Healey for me would be one that does not require a 
complete restoration. I would like to find a well done older restoration or 
a survivor in decent condition. Upgrading various components, but without 
taking the car totally apart, would be fine with me. I do prefer a fairly 
original (or at least correct) car.

.

 I would appreciate any help you can give.

Best wishes,

David Quiring
dquiring@sasktel.net
306-982-4811"
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 15:44:04 2013
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000d01cdff12$98a4be00$c9ee3a00$@rr.com>
	<1266842253.518932.1359575881023.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 17:38:29 -0500
thread-index: Ac3/JDb7wKOAV+eLS5OdCvxzdcewewAEySjw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss Motors brake master cyl. rebuild kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all who have responded so far.  Several of you recommended
installing the boot from inside the car after the cylinder is inserted through
the hole.   Ibm not the sharpest blade in the toolbox, but I did think of
that.  However, given the problem I had installing the boot with the cylinder
clamped in a vise b using two hands and a screwdriver to pry the lip of the
boot over the neck of the cylinder while holding it to prevent it from coming
off on the other side b I donbt think I can do it from inside the car.
The mismatch in diameters is too great and the rubber too stiff.  It would be
easier to grind the hole larger, but I donbt want to do that before hearing
from more folks who have actually done this job recently with a Moss kit, or
from Moss what they think of the issue.  Ibm still waiting for their call
back.

The boot I removed from the cylinder was stamped bGirlingb, and it is much
thinner and more flexible than the new Moss boot (bMade in Englandb).   I
rebuilt the brake master in September 1992, and at that time Moss provided the
rebuild kit including the Girling boot.

By the way, there was no corrosion or pitting at all in the cylinder bores of
either the brake or clutch master.  Slick as ice.  Thanks, Silicone Fluid.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 17:47:03 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000d01cdff12$98a4be00$c9ee3a00$@rr.com><1266842253.518932.1359575881023.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 18:41:40 -0600
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss Motors brake master cyl. rebuild kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve, is the old boot in good shape? the boot's job isn't quite as critical 
as the internal seals, if the new boot is the only problem....

--------------------------------------------------
From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 4:38 PM
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss Motors brake master cyl. rebuild kit

> Thanks to all who have responded so far.  Several of you recommended
> installing the boot from inside the car after the cylinder is inserted 
> through
> the hole.   Ibm not the sharpest blade in the toolbox, but I did think of
> that.  However, given the problem I had installing the boot with the 
> cylinder
> clamped in a vise b using two hands and a screwdriver to pry the lip of 
> the
> boot over the neck of the cylinder while holding it to prevent it from 
> coming
> off on the other side b I donbt think I can do it from inside the car.
> The mismatch in diameters is too great and the rubber too stiff.  It would 
> be
> easier to grind the hole larger, but I donbt want to do that before 
> hearing
> from more folks who have actually done this job recently with a Moss kit, 
> or
> from Moss what they think of the issue.  Ibm still waiting for their call
> back.
>
> The boot I removed from the cylinder was stamped bGirlingb, and it is 
> much
> thinner and more flexible than the new Moss boot (bMade in Englandb). 
> I
> rebuilt the brake master in September 1992, and at that time Moss provided 
> the
> rebuild kit including the Girling boot.
>
> By the way, there was no corrosion or pitting at all in the cylinder bores 
> of
> either the brake or clutch master.  Slick as ice.  Thanks, Silicone Fluid.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon@neb.rr.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 18:08:13 2013
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'Greg Lemon'" <glemon@neb.rr.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000d01cdff12$98a4be00$c9ee3a00$@rr.com><1266842253.518932.1359575881023.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 20:02:48 -0500
thread-index: Ac3/S7uuDiMZPcR5QeejfrvLlQMmhwAAsvqg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss Motors brake master cyl. rebuild kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, it was 21 years old and had a small split on the cylinder end, with
others obviously in the making in the bellows.



-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Lemon [mailto:glemon@neb.rr.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 7:42 PM
To: BJ8 Healeys; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss Motors brake master cyl. rebuild kit

Steve, is the old boot in good shape? the boot's job isn't quite as critical
as the internal seals, if the new boot is the only problem....
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 31 01:49:49 2013
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2013 16:44:07 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss Motors brake master cyl. rebuild kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Try boiling the rubber and then installing it while it's still warm.  It
should make it easier.  If it's a little wet, that should be ok to help get
it on, although it may cause a bit of surface corrosion.  if you have some
Girling rubber grease in an old packet, it's good to use that to help get
the boot on.

On Thu, Jan 31, 2013 at 6:38 AM, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Thanks to all who have responded so far.  Several of you recommended
> installing the boot from inside the car after the cylinder is inserted
> through
> the hole.   Ib m not the sharpest blade in the toolbox, but I did think of
> that.  However, given the problem I had installing the boot with the
> cylinder
> clamped in a vise b  using two hands and a screwdriver to pry the lip of
> the
> boot over the neck of the cylinder while holding it to prevent it from
> coming
> off on the other side b  I donb t think I can do it from inside the car.
> The mismatch in diameters is too great and the rubber too stiff.  It would
> be
> easier to grind the hole larger, but I donb t want to do that before
> hearing
> from more folks who have actually done this job recently with a Moss kit,
> or
> from Moss what they think of the issue.  Ib m still waiting for their call
> back.
>
> The boot I removed from the cylinder was stamped b Girlingb , and it is
> much
> thinner and more flexible than the new Moss boot (b Made in Englandb ).   I
> rebuilt the brake master in September 1992, and at that time Moss provided
> the
> rebuild kit including the Girling boot.
>
> By the way, there was no corrosion or pitting at all in the cylinder bores
> of
> either the brake or clutch master.  Slick as ice.  Thanks, Silicone Fluid.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 31 10:01:14 2013
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2013 16:55:44 +0000
From: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
Organization: Summa Ventures Ltd
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
	Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
References: <CAAh8etn58165KEHVrdWiXTqCEy1UvFMRtP_K3teVsYKSHrfuew@mail.gmail.com>
	<5038B382.2040009@chello.nl>
Cc: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nice 'Nasty Boy' 100 for sale.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Pretty much my reaction. Handling ought to be awful, but if it has been driven
on the back roads in southern France the suspension would need serious sorting
and possibly the chassis too!

The BOLD (Buick-Oldsmobile-Leyland-Dodge)"Rover" V8 with an overbore and a good
cam would have been a much better match for the rest.  I had one in an MGB GT V8
once and that really was a fun drive.

Peter

On 25/08/2012 12:14, Oudesluys wrote:
> The wheels might be from a later era but they are far superior to the originals
> which would be torn to shreds. I think they may be BBS from around the 70's-80's.
> I would be suspicious about the road behaviour of this car. Way to much power
> and a very heavy lump of cast iron in the engine bay. The Rover V8 would have
> suited the car far better. I like the conversion to a rack&pinion steering.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
> 
> Op 25-8-2012 11:12, Derek Job schreef:
>> On E-Bay in the Uk at a reasonable price.
>>
>> If I was buying a Nasty Boy I would want something like this. Just need to
>> change the wheels.
>>
>> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1954-Austin-Healey-100-with-a-difference-/190710549808?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2c673c0d30
>>
>>
>>
>> Derek
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2012.0.2197 / Virusdatabase: 2437/5222 - datum van uitgifte: 08/24/12
>>
>>
> 
> 

-- 

===========================================================
Dr Peter Dzwig				
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