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Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2013 08:45:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: llennep@verizon.net
To: gmandas@yahoo.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear drums 65 bj8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If you do this I suggest you consider having them balanced as well.  Made a big difference on both my cars.
 
Keith


On 05/31/13, Greg Mandas wrote:

Team.

Any problems, issues, warnings, suggestions about turning the rear drums on a Early Phase II BJ8? Any recommendations for a shop in Southern Connecticut?

As I spin the rears while adjusting the brakes the drums drag for half a rotation and free up. Both sides. I'm guessing they need turning. (?)

I'm thinking this is why I can't get the E-Brake to engage with any authority. Since I can't adjust the rear shoes close enough and the E-Brake doesn't have "That" much travel, they barely engage with the handle straight up.

It would work if the thumb release had another tooth or two on which to grip.

Greg 
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 08:22:21 2013
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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear drums 65 bj8
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<< On 5/31/2013 10:13 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:

A good, reliable parts house I deal with regularly refused to turn my 
BJ8's drums.
Apparently, there no official specs and no reputable shop will turn 
them without specs >>

1st sentence --- good for YOU, Bob (& the rest of motoring public).

2nd --- well yes & no <G> ! !   I have had in my hands drums from 
various LBS (& Chevies <VBG>)
that DO have drum specs stamped on the edge of rim.  That # TELLS the 
mechanic what he
can do.

I totally agree with Rick:  sounds (no pun intended <G>) like they are 
adjusted properly !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:                        www.justbrits.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 08:23:42 2013
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Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 07:14:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "llennep@verizon.net" <llennep@verizon.net>, "gmandas@yahoo.com"
	<gmandas@yahoo.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear drums 65 bj8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Allen Hendrix will turn and balance your drums for about $100 each.
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/services.html  Shipping can be a bit expensive
but I found one of those thick Rubbermaid style storage bins available at all
the home stores is a really good container for shipping.  When drum brakes
were more common, part of a brake job was to "arc" the new shoes to fit the
drums.  Some old shops still have the machine to carry this out.

 
Rick
"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From:
"llennep@verizon.net" <llennep@verizon.net>
To: gmandas@yahoo.com;
healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, June 1, 2013 9:45 AM
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Rear drums 65 bj8
 

If you do this I suggest you consider having
them balanced as well.  Made a big difference on both my cars.

Keith


On
05/31/13, Greg Mandas wrote:

Team.

Any problems, issues, warnings,
suggestions about turning the rear drums on a Early Phase II BJ8? Any
recommendations for a shop in Southern Connecticut?

As I spin the rears while
adjusting the brakes the drums drag for half a rotation and free up. Both
sides. I'm guessing they need turning. (?)

I'm thinking this is why I can't
get the E-Brake to engage with any authority. Since I can't adjust the rear
shoes close enough and the E-Brake doesn't have "That" much travel, they
barely engage with the handle straight up.

It would work if the thumb release
had another tooth or two on which to grip.

Greg 
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 09:55:21 2013
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 08:42:06 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5e3pIIk38salmATq+PsqyBhoo+Mg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] E-brake mount broken - [was Rear drums 65 bj8]
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Greg Mandas wrote:

<<< 

Since I can't adjust the rear shoes close enough and the E-Brake doesn't
have "That" much travel, they barely engage with the handle straight up.

It would work if the thumb release had another tooth or two on which to
grip.

>>>

 

I'd guess the parking brake mount is broken - this because of the lever
rotating so far upward. Mine was weak and broken loose from the frame. I
made a simple clamp-on bracket to hold it from a scrap piece of angle. 

See:

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/140695876

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 16:08:19 2013
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 14:55:39 -0700
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Subject: [Healeys] Brake resolution
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I need to get back to everyone who helped me with my brake bleeding problem
(there have some other things that have kept me from the car lately).  Anyway,
I used sort of a combination of the suggestions, and managed to get it done.
I think I had a bubble in the system that just didn't want to leave.  Once it
started flowing, it all worked fine.  Thanks to all.

Mike
BN2
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 21:21:43 2013
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Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2013 03:15:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?plugs?=
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if i had to choose between bosch and ngk plugs, what would i choose?
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 21:40:49 2013
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Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2013 20:35:55 -0700
From: "rrengineer.mike" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] plugs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

NGK

Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5


Sent via the Samsung Galaxy Sb" III, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: healeymanjim@hansencc.net 
Date:  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] plugs 
 
if i had to choose between bosch and ngk plugs, what would i choose?
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 23:43:51 2013
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 15:38:55 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac5fP7oXgewAujfjSk60Ob8fHwqR7AAE4lKQAAAKZwA=
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Subject: [Healeys] FW:  plugs
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeymanjim@hansencc.net
Sent: Sunday, 2 June 2013 1:15 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] plugs

if i had to choose between bosch and ngk plugs, what would i choose?
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 23:54:44 2013
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:54:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adam Nolde <adamnolde@yahoo.com>
To: John J Einhorn <jnhorn@aol.com>, Jonathan Einhorn
	<einhornlawoffice@gmail.com>, jeptha curtis <jeptha.curtis@yale.edu>,
	"rmessinamd@gmail.com" <rmessinamd@gmail.com>, Jay Healey
	<mga1957ct@aol.com>, Neal Carlson <ncarlson62@earthlink.net>, Peter J
	McCarthy <midnightautopete@embarqmail.com>, Peter Cindy Sturtevant
	<Peter.Sturtevant@Covidien.com>, Peter Cindy Sturtevant
	<healeybn4@comcast.net>, Carole Paye <dpaye@crocker.com>,
	"paye@yahoo.com" <paye@yahoo.com>, Trev LaBorde
	<teluride2@mindspring.com>, Trevor LaBorde <teluride@rmi.net>,
	mack&carol laborde <johnmalcolm@surfbest.net>, Steve Bell
	<scbell@mail.rockland.mec.edu>, Steve Byers BJ8 <sbyers@ec.rr.com>,
	Steve Sue Bell <scbell1@comcast.net>, Steven Landau
	<steven@classiccargallery.com>, David Silberkleit
	<david@bugeyeguy.com>, David Silberkleit <david@empowercoach.com>,
	Karen Doyle <karen.downer-doyle@bankofamerica.com>, Patrick Doyle
	<pdoyle@elm-group.com>, JAMES SMITH <ecnsmith@comcast.net>, bob
	britton <healeybj7@hotmail.com>, Bill Wood
	<healeybill@worldnet.att.net>, William Bill Wood <healeybill@att.net>, 
	"jwwood21@gmail.com" <jwwood21@gmail.com>, Deb Katz
	<DLKATZ_99@hotmail.com>, sandra hunziker <sandrahunziker@yahoo.com>,
	John Thackeray <thackeray_john@yahoo.com>, "monanolde@yahoo.com"
	<monanolde@yahoo.com>, Mark Schmidt-Fellner
	<mark@schmidt-fellner.com>, Healey List List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Selling my Healey BN6, pass it on.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Too many cars, not enough time to drive them all...  One of my Healeys,
unfortunately for me my favorite Healey, is up for sale.  If you know anyone
who might love it as much as I do, please pass it on.

Maybe one of you would
be kind enough to mention the listing to BringATrailer.com in hopes they will
show it.

Would anybody be interested in taking this car to British By The Sea
on June 2?  I'm coaching my sons Tee Ball team, but would really love to get
this car some exposure.  Can't decide yet if I'm going to skip baseball to get
the car more exposure.  Could be a great day of Healey driving for somebody if
the weather is good.

http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/cto/3825215950.html
Thanks,

adam
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 00:11:01 2013
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 18:09:45 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: fogbro1@comcast.net, Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, 
	Michael Salter <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Screw Size
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ed, Mike and All,

I believe that the very early 100's may have had Whitworth and BA fasteners
on the windscreen, but not on the majority of the later cars.  I have
copies of the factory measured drawings of the knurled knob assemblies that
were first used to make up accurate reproductions some 20 years ago, and
the threads are all Unified, UNF to be specific and with UNC used for the
windscreen locating posts.

Regarding the screws for the chrome side pieces to the frame, they were
originally steel.  I used brass 10-32 screws when I replaced them (hardware
store) and I've attached photos of the replacements that I've made.  It was
very simple to turn down the heads using a drill and a file.  You could
also use stainless steel like I did on the windscreen locating posts.

Curt


On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 5:20 AM, <fogbro1@comcast.net> wrote:

> Really? 10-32, not 2BA? Close, but not the same.
>
> Ed

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_3715.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_3716.JPG]

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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Moss Repro knurled knobs (steel) circ. 1989.JPG]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 01:31:04 2013
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Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 15:15:19 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Windshield Screw Size
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All -

If you have part numbers, I can try cross referencing with my A90 list,
which I have deconstructed from the parts manual for all screws, bolts and
nuts.  I know the corresponding BSF/BA sizing to Austin part numbers from
my list.

Sorry I don't have my 100 parts list handy so if someone can pass them to
me I'll see if I can find a comparable.

Best,

Alan


On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 9:09 AM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:

> Ed, Mike and All,
>
> I believe that the very early 100's may have had Whitworth and BA fasteners
> on the windscreen, but not on the majority of the later cars.  I have
> copies of the factory measured drawings of the knurled knob assemblies that
> were first used to make up accurate reproductions some 20 years ago, and
> the threads are all Unified, UNF to be specific and with UNC used for the
> windscreen locating posts.
>
> Regarding the screws for the chrome side pieces to the frame, they were
> originally steel.  I used brass 10-32 screws when I replaced them (hardware
> store) and I've attached photos of the replacements that I've made.  It was
> very simple to turn down the heads using a drill and a file.  You could
> also use stainless steel like I did on the windscreen locating posts.
>
> Curt
>
>
> On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 5:20 AM, <fogbro1@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > Really? 10-32, not 2BA? Close, but not the same.
> >
> > Ed
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_3715.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_3716.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_3717.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_3719.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_3720.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_3721.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_3712.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_3714.JPG]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> Moss Repro knurled knobs (steel) circ. 1989.JPG]
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 02:00:02 2013
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 17:51:17 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac5fP7oXgewAujfjSk60Ob8fHwqR7AAE4lKQAASnjNA=
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  plugs
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Nippondenso-much better than either of them 

John Rowe Qld Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeymanjim@hansencc.net
Sent: Sunday, 2 June 2013 1:15 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] plugs

if i had to choose between bosch and ngk plugs, what would i choose?
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 03:16:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re:  Drum max diameter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe someone was looking for this information a few days ago.  I
remebered this email from Rich Chrysler.  I don't know how you prove it to a
mechanic for liabilitiy reasons though.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

--- On Mon, 2/14/11, Rich Chrysler <richchrysler@quickclic.net> wrote:



The drum inside diameter is 11". I believe the maximum allowance is .060",
that is to say a .030" cut all around.

Rich




Hi,

Does any of You know the max worn diameter of the drums? Cant find it in the
manual.

Gergo
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 10:06:31 2013
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From: Robert Duquette <RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 18:01:31 +0200
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[75E2A5F0:01CE5FAA]
Subject: [Healeys] French Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I saw a white 6 cylinder Healey today stopped with some other motorists not
too far from Amboise.  Was it someone from the list?

Robert
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 12:27:32 2013
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Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 20:22:42 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] French Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I now a Healey guy in Amboise, although he has a red/black BJ8. He is
running the Novotel Amboise.

Gergo


2013/6/2 Robert Duquette <RobertDuquette@sympatico.ca>

> I saw a white 6 cylinder Healey today stopped with some other motorists not
> too far from Amboise.  Was it someone from the list?
>
> Robert
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 09:38:15 2013
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 08:31:23 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have an original  restored adjustable column Trafficator for sale with
new wire harness.
$300.00 + shipping. see the bottom of http://healey6.com/for_sale.htm for
photos.
 contact off list for more info. I can bring it to Rendezvous if you want
to save on shipping.
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 10:24:30 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Austin Healey'" <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
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	<CA+QDXmDCFrd5HivBCzCjSJ8AHSiKuv+bFaOQmBmeXSqwGQuhXA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 17:17:21 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac5fvlqssmeOP5gzQY+BReDtSVnRkgAtnjWQ
Content-Language: en-gb
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] French Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

With regard to Healeys in France, I'm taking my BT7 over to France in a
couple of weeks time. I aim to do some or all of the Route des Grandes
Alpes. (Google it.)
Anyhow, can anyone give me any tips with regard to contacts/telephone
numbers/whatever in France? There's a fairly good network over here and
likewise in, for example, the US. But France, despite being our nearest
continental neighbour, is a complete mystery to me in Healey terms. I know
that there are quite a few enthusiasts over there but am pretty ignorant as
to who is what and where. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Austin Healey
Sent: 02 June 2013 19:23
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] French Healey

I now a Healey guy in Amboise, although he has a red/black BJ8. He is
running the Novotel Amboise.

Gergo


2013/6/2 Robert Duquette <RobertDuquette@sympatico.ca>

> I saw a white 6 cylinder Healey today stopped with some other 
> motorists not too far from Amboise.  Was it someone from the list?
>
> Robert
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
$12.75
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 11:28:15 2013
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, 'Austin Healey'
	<pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 17:23:00 +0000
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	FILETIME=[FF70C750:01CE607E]
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] French Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon:
Probably one of the best person to contact is Didier Mongin, he is a member of
the Healey Club of France, he also has a website that deals with Austin-Healey
100, you can reach him  by: www.austin-healey.fr

Jean


> From: simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> To: pajtamuvek@gmail.com
> Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 17:17:21 +0100
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] French Healey
>
> With regard to Healeys in France, I'm taking my BT7 over to France in a
> couple of weeks time. I aim to do some or all of the Route des Grandes
> Alpes. (Google it.)
> Anyhow, can anyone give me any tips with regard to contacts/telephone
> numbers/whatever in France? There's a fairly good network over here and
> likewise in, for example, the US. But France, despite being our nearest
> continental neighbour, is a complete mystery to me in Healey terms. I know
> that there are quite a few enthusiasts over there but am pretty ignorant as
> to who is what and where. Any ideas would be appreciated.
> Simon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Austin Healey
> Sent: 02 June 2013 19:23
> Cc: Healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] French Healey
>
> I now a Healey guy in Amboise, although he has a red/black BJ8. He is
> running the Novotel Amboise.
>
> Gergo
>
>
> 2013/6/2 Robert Duquette <RobertDuquette@sympatico.ca>
>
> > I saw a white 6 cylinder Healey today stopped with some other
> > motorists not too far from Amboise. Was it someone from the list?
> >
> > Robert
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> > donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
tmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 11:29:42 2013
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 13:25:00 -0400
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Pico Mountain ad on page 124 in the Killington Mountain,VT 4241 Magazine.
Looks like a BT7 grill.

- tom
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 11:57:46 2013
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 10:44:32 -0700
To: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey sighting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't know how many of you saw the latest episode of Overhauling, but Foose
and crew were working on  Lotus Europa from a guy at Jay Leno's garage and
there is a100-6 in thr background being restored. I think part two was
broadcast yesterday
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 10:25 AM, Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com> wrote:

> Pico Mountain ad on page 124 in the Killington Mountain,VT 4241 Magazine.
> Looks like a BT7 grill.
>
> - tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2013 19:45:35 +0200
From: Bob <jagxk120@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.8; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130509 Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>,  Healey List
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU0-SMTP17A973DC7CF929DC44A65BB89C0@phx.gbl>
	<CA+QDXmDCFrd5HivBCzCjSJ8AHSiKuv+bFaOQmBmeXSqwGQuhXA@mail.gmail.com>
	<000001ce6075$d40b17e0$7c2147a0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] French Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon,
I'm near Montlhery (30 mi south of Paris) and know a good shop nearby.
Drop me a line when you're about to cross the pond.
B
HBT7LO244


Le 03/06/13 18:17, Simon Lachlan a icrit :
> With regard to Healeys in  France, I'm taking my BT7 over to France
 > in a couple of weeks time. I aim to do some or all of the Route des
 > Grandes Alpes. (Google it.) Anyhow, can anyone give me any tips with
 > regard to contacts/telephone numbers/whatever in France? There's a
 > fairly good network over here and likewise in, for example, the US.
 > But France, despite being our nearest continental neighbour, is a
 > complete mystery to me in Healey terms. I know that there are quite
 > a few enthusiasts over there but am pretty ignorant as to who is
 > what and where. Any ideas would be appreciated. Simon
 >
 > -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
 > [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin Healey
 > Sent: 02 June 2013 19:23 Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] French
 > Healey
 >
 > I now a Healey guy in Amboise, although he has a red/black BJ8. He is
 > running the Novotel Amboise.
 >
 > Gergo
 >
 >
 > 2013/6/2 Robert Duquette <RobertDuquette@sympatico.ca>
 >
 >> I saw a white 6 cylinder Healey today stopped with some other
 >> motorists not too far from Amboise.  Was it someone from the list?
 >>
 >> Robert _______________________________________________ Support
 >> Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
 >> $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums:
 >> http://www.team.net/forums
 >>
 >> Healeys@autox.team.net
 >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 >>
 >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
 >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
 > $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums:
 > http://www.team.net/forums
 >
 > Healeys@autox.team.net
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 >
 > Unsubscribe/Manage:
 > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
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 >
 > Unsubscribe/Manage:
 > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bcrist@club-internet.fr
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 12:01:49 2013
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Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2013 19:55:34 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <BLU0-SMTP17A973DC7CF929DC44A65BB89C0@phx.gbl>
	<CA+QDXmDCFrd5HivBCzCjSJ8AHSiKuv+bFaOQmBmeXSqwGQuhXA@mail.gmail.com>
	<000001ce6075$d40b17e0$7c2147a0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] French Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon,

Bring some snow chains. There is still a fair bit of snow and not all 
passes are open yet. L'Iseran and Galibier may not be open at the time, 
as may be some others. Be prepared for snow on the high roads this year.
Check:
http://www.infotrafic.com/route.php?region=FRANC&link=cols.php?ALPN
shortly before you set of.

If in trouble in France phone the AA or RAC, which ever you are a member 
of, and they will arrange assistance for you in France. Take the 
necessary tools and spares with you: generator/alternator, fuses, 
points, condenser, coil, spark plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter, V belt, 
electric wire, duct tape, water/coolant, oil as 20W50 is not available 
in most places. Luckily the Healey is an extremely simple machine so any 
local garage should be able to fix it. Make sure you carry some spare 
fuel. Fuel can be found at most hyper/super markets. Very little along 
the roads, beware. Use a TomTom/Garmin etc., it will indicate where to 
find them. Sometimes a normal credit/debit card is not accepted, but 
Visa nearly works every time. Most are self service without cashier.

Stick to the smaller roads, set your TomTom on "avoid motorway's" or 
choose the "shortest route". You will encounter the most beautiful and 
surprising places. Plenty of small, cheap hotels (not always indicated 
on the TomTom), most with an excellent restaurant, but you have to be 
prepared for some disillusions, although this happens only very rarely.

Check: http://www.austin-healey.fr/

You may find some contacts there who can help you out when needed, so 
take your I-pad/pod.

Cheers
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 3-6-2013 18:17, Simon Lachlan schreef:
> With regard to Healeys in France, I'm taking my BT7 over to France in a
> couple of weeks time. I aim to do some or all of the Route des Grandes
> Alpes. (Google it.)
> Anyhow, can anyone give me any tips with regard to contacts/telephone
> numbers/whatever in France? There's a fairly good network over here and
> likewise in, for example, the US. But France, despite being our nearest
> continental neighbour, is a complete mystery to me in Healey terms. I know
> that there are quite a few enthusiasts over there but am pretty ignorant as
> to who is what and where. Any ideas would be appreciated.
> Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 12:16:32 2013
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From: "Charles Rice" <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 13:11:02 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5ghQXrMd6Zt2jDSGKOdZks/96MoQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

     Plan to trailer my BN2 1250 miles to Conclave.  I figure it would be
good to

cover it for protection against various debris, sunlight, rain, etc.
Appreciate advice

on the many choices of covers out there.  

     Thanks - Charles Rice BN2
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 11:38:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
To: Charles Rice <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

During trailering?  Would a cover not cause more issues than it protects
from?  Like abrading paint in areas by flapping in the airstream while going
at speed?
Cars on commercial open trailers are either uncovered or protected
by a film.   There might be paint protection films you can apply yourself,
worth investigating.

Bert



________________________________
 From: Charles
Rice <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday,
June 3, 2013 11:11 AM
Subject: [Healeys] car cover advice
 

     Plan to
trailer my BN2 1250 miles to Conclave.  I figure it would be
good to

cover it
for protection against various debris, sunlight, rain, etc.
Appreciate advice
on the many choices of covers out there.  

     Thanks - Charles Rice BN2
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 13:32:12 2013
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References: <003e01ce6085$b55163d0$1ff42b70$@glasgow-ky.com>
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 12:22:48 -0700
To: "Charles Rice" <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

DO NOT put a car cover on it will flap around and damage the paint on
a open trailer. If you want to put something on the car get some of
the plastic crash wrap and cover the front of the car with that. It
is a static material we use in the shop to protect the paint when
building a car.

o?<


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com




Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Jun 3, 2013, at 11:11 AM, Charles Rice wrote:

>      Plan to trailer my BN2 1250 miles to Conclave.  I figure it
> would be
> good to
>
> cover it for protection against various debris, sunlight, rain, etc.
> Appreciate advice
>
> on the many choices of covers out there.
>
>      Thanks - Charles Rice BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
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References: <mailman.25.1370282405.2060.healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 12:34:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey sighting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That was a 100.  It belongs to one the guys in Jay's garage.  Jay provides
some shop space for the guys that help take care of his fleet.  
 
I would
like to see it finished.  I spoke with the owner, encouraging him to finish it
so he can enjoy it.
 
Dean (I own the blue Europa #41 you might have seen in
the Overhaulin' episode - part 2)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------
Don't know how many of you saw the latest episode
of Overhauling, but Foose
and crew were working on  Lotus Europa from a guy at
Jay Leno's garage and
there is a100-6 in thr background being restored. I
think part two was
broadcast yesterday
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
  _______       
                          _______
    (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
   
    (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 13:50:54 2013
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	<B42F7F09-FDF6-4E5C-BD29-1834B6B53440@sbcglobal.net>
From: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 14:37:00 -0500
To: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
	FILETIME=[B828D050:01CE6091]
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	Charles Rice <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I use Static-cling on my track car. Easy on, easy off and reuse able. I got
mine at a local sign making shop here in Bowling green. Works well for me.
I use a cheap breathable dust cover when parked, non water proof unless I use
a blue tarp over it to protect from heavy rain. Never cover on the road as
paint chaffage  will occur

Regards,
Richard C

Sent from iPhone

On Jun 3, 2013, at 14:27, "David Nock British Car Specialists"
<healeydoc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> DO NOT put a car cover on it will flap around and damage the paint on
> a open trailer. If you want to put something on the car get some of
> the plastic crash wrap and cover the front of the car with that. It
> is a static material we use in the shop to protect the paint when
> building
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 13:52:55 2013
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 15:46:36 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Charles Rice <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If you come thru Pittsburgh, give me a shout--I'll tag along a while in my BJ8.


---- Charles Rice <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com> wrote: 

=============
     Plan to trailer my BN2 1250 miles to Conclave.  I figure it would be
good to

cover it for protection against various debris, sunlight, rain, etc.
Appreciate advice

on the many choices of covers out there.  

     Thanks - Charles Rice BN2
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 14:18:30 2013
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 16:08:02 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: "Dan Dougherty Sr." <globalrc@mindspring.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Original 100-6 side curtains on ebay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Nice set of original 100-6 sidecurtains with brackets and goo glass on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181150849304?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 14:34:44 2013
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	Mon, 03 Jun 2013 15:21:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2013 16:21:07 -0400
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Subject: [Healeys] Comparisons
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The summer issue of Hagerty magazine has an article comparing the 1953
Corvette and Healey 100. Haven't finished reading it yet and it is not yet
posted on their website.

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

www.healey6.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <5861210.1370290083217.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 13:21:36 -0700
To: "Dan Dougherty Sr." <globalrc@mindspring.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original 100-6 side curtains on ebay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Haven't seen my Moss side curtains in a while, but these do not look OEM.
Can someone chime in on weather or not these are OEM or aftermarket?
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 1:08 PM, Dan Dougherty Sr.
<globalrc@mindspring.com>wrote:

> Nice set of original 100-6 sidecurtains with brackets and goo glass on
> ebay.
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/181150849304?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 14:50:25 2013
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From: "George Castleberry" <leavcast@gmail.com>
To: "David Nock British Car Specialists" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
References: <003e01ce6085$b55163d0$1ff42b70$@glasgow-ky.com>
	<B42F7F09-FDF6-4E5C-BD29-1834B6B53440@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 13:41:23 -0700
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

David,

Do you sell this crash wrap?....I'm in nowhere Flagstaff and would like to put
some on for my trip to Tahoe.


George Castleberry
59 Bugeye (going)
54 100 (not)
Flagstaff, AZ
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: David Nock British Car Specialists
  To: Charles Rice
  Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, June 03, 2013 12:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice


  DO NOT put a car cover on it will flap around and damage the paint on
  a open trailer. If you want to put something on the car get some of
  the plastic crash wrap and cover the front of the car with that. It
  is a static material we use in the shop to protect the paint when
  building a car.

  o?<


  David Nock
  British Car Specialists
  Stockton Ca 95205
  209-948-8767

  www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 15:09:35 2013
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References: <007701ce6097$e1ccb2e0$a56618a0$@verizon.net>
From: Don <fsufan1952@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 17:04:19 -0400
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Comparisons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I finished it and the bottom line looks like although the vet is more $$$$$
only because they only made 300 vs 1,274 of the 100-4 they would rather have
the Healey for the fun in driving factor! Something we already know!
              Don , BJ8 and loving it !

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 3, 2013, at 4:21 PM, "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

> The summer issue of Hagerty magazine has an article comparing the 1953
> Corvette and Healey 100. Haven't finished reading it yet and it is not yet
> posted on their website.
>
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
>
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
>
> www.healey6.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 15:10:10 2013
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	<CACPMnYpTncvfa+6_F3PDDA4-4oT=1bzN5TqUwuHShbmxZ0g7Kw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 16:05:24 -0500
From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: "<healeys@Autox.Team.Net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	"Dan Dougherty Sr." <globalrc@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original 100-6 side curtains on ebay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

appear original to me as they are like the ones on my BN6.
cheers,


On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 3:21 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:

> Haven't seen my Moss side curtains in a while, but these do not look OEM.
> Can someone chime in on weather or not these are OEM or aftermarket?
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 1:08 PM, Dan Dougherty Sr.
> <globalrc@mindspring.com>wrote:
>
> > Nice set of original 100-6 sidecurtains with brackets and goo glass on
> > ebay.
> >
> >
> >
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/181150849304?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>


-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 15:52:16 2013
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References: <003e01ce6085$b55163d0$1ff42b70$@glasgow-ky.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 17:40:00 -0400
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Charles Rice <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Charles--

I have been told it is a bad idea to put a cover on a car while towing on
an open trailer as the wind buffeting of the material, etc. can play havoc
with the paint.  I'm sure others will weigh in here with other opinions,
hopefully some based upon personal experience versus hearsay, but that is
what I can add.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 2:11 PM, Charles Rice <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>wrote:

>      Plan to trailer my BN2 1250 miles to Conclave.  I figure it would be
> good to
>
> cover it for protection against various debris, sunlight, rain, etc.
> Appreciate advice
>
> on the many choices of covers out there.
>
>      Thanks - Charles Rice BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 18:59:51 2013
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: Charles Rice <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 00:47:07 +0000
References: <003e01ce6085$b55163d0$1ff42b70$@glasgow-ky.com>
	FILETIME=[0A55BE80:01CE60BD]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bad idea.  I once had a red BJ8 that I parked outside one winter. I had a tarp
on the car to keep the elements out.  However, the wind caused the tarp to
flap around and when I removed the tarp in the spring, it had damaged the
paint in a number of places.

> From: crice_home@glasgow-ky.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 13:11:02 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] car cover advice
>
>      Plan to trailer my BN2 1250 miles to Conclave.  I figure it would be
> good to
>
> cover it for protection against various debris, sunlight, rain, etc.
> Appreciate advice
>
> on the many choices of covers out there.
>
>      Thanks - Charles Rice BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 21:08:49 2013
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 20:03:54 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Trafficator has been claimed.
Thanks for interest.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Jun 3, 2013 8:31 AM, "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have an original  restored adjustable column Trafficator for sale with
> new wire harness.
> $300.00 + shipping. see the bottom of http://healey6.com/for_sale.htm for
> photos.
>  contact off list for more info. I can bring it to Rendezvous if you want
> to save on shipping.
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 23:31:36 2013
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have a top for a BT7, blue in color for sale.  never has been mounted on a frame.  if interested, contact me off list.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 10:54:50 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] The side curtains on ebay //Healey org.
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Hi :Dan:
Howard in Ohio:
I have a set of these side curtains sitting in my garage. They look very
original judging from the hardware that is shown. Mine show the same type of
deterioration (dirt, some rust, discoloration) but the plexiglass windows look
amazing clear. Nice for the price $150.00.
 I have the replacement side curtains from Moss and I have to transfer the
hardware as they are suppose to be OEM replacements but the new hardware does
not match the old hardware configuration. So I would go with these originals
on Ebay.
Cheers
Howard
61 BT7 -Tri-Carb Rally replica
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 13:03:22 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] clutch
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I recently reinstalled my trans/OD in my BJ8. The OD was sent out for a
rebuild. The transmission had been working perfectly, prior to removal. I only
had 25,000 miles on the entire drive train, but while the trans/OD was out I
decided to replace the clutch disc because it would be easy to do. The old
disc looked great. It measured 9.5" diameter which is the specification for a
BJ8 clutch. I picked a new one up at Victoria British, but when I got home it
measured 9-1/16" diameter. I called Moss & they assured me that their clutch
measured 9.5" so I ordered it. When it arrived it was identical in every way
to the Victoria British disc. The exact same product. I knew it was not a big
difference so I installed it. The thickness of the new disc was slightly (less
the 1/32") thicker that the old disc. My problem is that now I am having a lot
of trouble getting into 1st & reverse when stopped, even if I go into 2nd
before trying to  shift into 1st or reverse. It is acting like the clutch has
not fully released even though I have the pedal on the floor & there is no air
in the system. I now have 180 miles on the new clutch. Any ideas what is
causing this issue & will it go away when the clutch gets more broken in?
Gary Hodson
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 13:29:08 2013
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From: "Charles Rice" <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 14:18:01 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
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Thanks for all the advice on car covers.  

Now my next question:  Do "Octane Booster" additives do any good?

 

Charles Rice BN2
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 13:47:52 2013
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References: <020f01ce6158$3b26fbf0$b174f3d0$@glasgow-ky.com>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 12:41:09 -0700
To: Charles Rice <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
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they make the chemical companies a lot of money....
I would rather go to a small plane airport and buy 5 gal. of low lead av
gas and mix that into a tank of unleaded gas..
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 12:18 PM, Charles Rice <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>wrote:

> Thanks for all the advice on car covers.
>
> Now my next question:  Do "Octane Booster" additives do any good?
>
>
>
> Charles Rice BN2
> _______________________________________________
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 12:47:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Pre-ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

<small> 
Anyone ever open their bonnet to see the dashpot damper wire sticking out the top of the dashpot cover?  I'm thinking it was due to backfiring back thruogh the carbs.

Can I get a replacement damper?  
The current one is green with some numbers on it. 

Greg 
65BJ8
</small>
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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 12:53:11 -0700
To: warthodson@aol.com
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <8D02F6C95F2C0E5-21B8-5FCC9@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary,
Does it disengage and reengage like there a sweet spot in the middle 
of the clutch peddle movement where the clutch is fully disengaged? 
With the transmission cover removed and the car running operate the 
clutch and look at the movement of the slave cylinder push rod. Try 
shifting at different times to see if it disengages and reengages. If 
so you may need to shorten the push rod.

John

At 02:58 PM 6/4/2013 -0400, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>I recently reinstalled my trans/OD in my BJ8. The OD was sent out for a
>rebuild. The transmission had been working perfectly, prior to removal. I only
>had 25,000 miles on the entire drive train, but while the trans/OD was out I
>decided to replace the clutch disc because it would be easy to do. The old
>disc looked great. It measured 9.5" diameter which is the specification for a
>BJ8 clutch. I picked a new one up at Victoria British, but when I got home it
>measured 9-1/16" diameter. I called Moss & they assured me that their clutch
>measured 9.5" so I ordered it. When it arrived it was identical in every way
>to the Victoria British disc. The exact same product. I knew it was not a big
>difference so I installed it. The thickness of the new disc was slightly (less
>the 1/32") thicker that the old disc. My problem is that now I am having a lot
>of trouble getting into 1st & reverse when stopped, even if I go into 2nd
>before trying to  shift into 1st or reverse. It is acting like the clutch has
>not fully released even though I have the pedal on the floor & there is no air
>in the system. I now have 180 miles on the new clutch. Any ideas what is
>causing this issue & will it go away when the clutch gets more broken in?
>Gary Hodson
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 14:04:12 2013
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References: <1370375244.79992.YahooMailClassic@web162901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 21:59:14 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre-ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Greg,

Dampers are available new. No problem. Missfiring should be fixed though.

Gergo


2013/6/4 Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>

> Hi,
>
> <small>
> Anyone ever open their bonnet to see the dashpot damper wire sticking out
> the top of the dashpot cover?  I'm thinking it was due to backfiring back
> thruogh the carbs.
>
> Can I get a replacement damper?
> The current one is green with some numbers on it.
>
> Greg
> 65BJ8
> </small>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 14:16:02 2013
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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 22:04:15 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <020f01ce6158$3b26fbf0$b174f3d0$@glasgow-ky.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

No, unless you have a very high compression engine, and even than. If 
you can get high octane leaded petrol it would be much more effective 
than octane boosters. Perhaps available from army, aviation, racing sources.
The whole thing about converted cylinder heads with hardened seats when 
lead free petrol was introduced now shows to be totally unnecessary and 
has earned the industry billions. Only in very few occasions there has 
been excessive wear of the valve seats.
If your car runs OK on unleaded (no pinking) and there is no discernible 
wear of the valve seats (reduced valve clearances) there is absolutely 
no reason to use octane boosters or high octane petrol for that matter.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Op 4-6-2013 21:18, Charles Rice schreef:
> Thanks for all the advice on car covers.
>
> Now my next question:  Do "Octane Booster" additives do any good?
>
>   
>
> Charles Rice BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3343 / Virusdatabase: 3184/6382 - datum van uitgifte: 06/04/13
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 14:16:37 2013
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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 22:09:04 +0200
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8D02F6C95F2C0E5-21B8-5FCC9@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A new clutch plate will often cause some drag as the waved steel centre 
disc will have to settle, which will decrease the total thickness of the 
clutch plate and make disengaging the clutch easier.
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 4-6-2013 20:58, warthodson@aol.com schreef:
> I recently reinstalled my trans/OD in my BJ8. The OD was sent out for a
> rebuild. The transmission had been working perfectly, prior to removal. I only
> had 25,000 miles on the entire drive train, but while the trans/OD was out I
> decided to replace the clutch disc because it would be easy to do. The old
> disc looked great. It measured 9.5" diameter which is the specification for a
> BJ8 clutch. I picked a new one up at Victoria British, but when I got home it
> measured 9-1/16" diameter. I called Moss & they assured me that their clutch
> measured 9.5" so I ordered it. When it arrived it was identical in every way
> to the Victoria British disc. The exact same product. I knew it was not a big
> difference so I installed it. The thickness of the new disc was slightly (less
> the 1/32") thicker that the old disc. My problem is that now I am having a lot
> of trouble getting into 1st & reverse when stopped, even if I go into 2nd
> before trying to  shift into 1st or reverse. It is acting like the clutch has
> not fully released even though I have the pedal on the floor & there is no air
> in the system. I now have 180 miles on the new clutch. Any ideas what is
> causing this issue & will it go away when the clutch gets more broken in?
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3343 / Virusdatabase: 3184/6382 - datum van uitgifte: 06/04/13
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 15:03:36 2013
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 16:58:27 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre-ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Greg, I have seen dampers with the wires through the top, and I have seen
dampers where the top had been repaired with JB Weld after the wire went
through the top.  My carbs will spit back occasionally if I try to move off
too quickly before the engine is warm enough, but fortunately, my complete
damper will blow out top and all -- always the front one.  I think that's
better than blowing the wire through the top.

You can get a new damper from Joe Curto http://www.joecurto.com.
I just bought a replacement set of points and diaphragm for my SU fuel pump
from him.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Mandas
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 3:47 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Pre-ignition

Hi,

<small>
Anyone ever open their bonnet to see the dashpot damper wire sticking out
the top of the dashpot cover?  I'm thinking it was due to backfiring back
thruogh the carbs.

Can I get a replacement damper?  
The current one is green with some numbers on it. 

Greg
65BJ8
</small>
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 15:20:49 2013
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: Charles Rice <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 21:15:51 +0000
References: <020f01ce6158$3b26fbf0$b174f3d0$@glasgow-ky.com>
	FILETIME=[B199E8F0:01CE6168]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

No, not if the car is being trailered..............;)



Jean


> From: crice_home@glasgow-ky.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 14:18:01 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
>
> Thanks for all the advice on car covers.
>
> Now my next question: Do "Octane Booster" additives do any good?
>
>
>
> Charles Rice BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
tmail.com
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	<000f01ce6166$430b5e20$c9221a60$@rr.com>
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 17:21:24 -0400
To: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre-ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve,

Thank you. That's exactly when it happened to me, getting off too quickly when
she was cold.

Greg


Sent from my iPhone.


On Jun 4, 2013, at 4:58 PM, "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Greg, I have seen dampers with the wires through the top, and I have seen
> dampers where the top had been repaired with JB Weld after the wire went
> through the top.  My carbs will spit back occasionally if I try to move off
> too quickly before the engine is warm enough, but fortunately, my complete
> damper will blow out top and all -- always the front one.  I think that's
> better than blowing the wire through the top.
>
> You can get a new damper from Joe Curto http://www.joecurto.com.
> I just bought a replacement set of points and diaphragm for my SU fuel pump
> from him.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Greg Mandas
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 3:47 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Pre-ignition
>
> Hi,
>
> <small>
> Anyone ever open their bonnet to see the dashpot damper wire sticking out
> the top of the dashpot cover?  I'm thinking it was due to backfiring back
> thruogh the carbs.
>
> Can I get a replacement damper?
> The current one is green with some numbers on it.
>
> Greg
> 65BJ8
> </small>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 15:35:38 2013
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	<51AE483F.3090000@chello.nl>
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 14:23:27 -0700
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You are confusing octane boosters with lead replacements.
Octane booster prevent preignition which can destroy an engine if severe
enough.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 4, 2013, at 13:04, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> No, unless you have a very high compression engine, and even than. If you
can get high octane leaded petrol it would be much more effective than octane
boosters. Perhaps available from army, aviation, racing sources.
> The whole thing about converted cylinder heads with hardened seats when lead
free petrol was introduced now shows to be totally unnecessary and has earned
the industry billions. Only in very few occasions there has been excessive
wear of the valve seats.
> If your car runs OK on unleaded (no pinking) and there is no discernible
wear of the valve seats (reduced valve clearances) there is absolutely no
reason to use octane boosters or high octane petrol for that matter.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
>
> Op 4-6-2013 21:18, Charles Rice schreef:
>> Thanks for all the advice on car covers.
>>
>> Now my next question:  Do "Octane Booster" additives do any good?
>>
>>
>> Charles Rice BN2
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2013.0.3343 / Virusdatabase: 3184/6382 - datum van uitgifte:
06/04/13
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 15:50:25 2013
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 17:45:12 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Gary,
I have been struggling with exactly the same issue with the new
(aftermarket) clutch that I installed in my Subaru "winter beater".
The disc was considerably thicker than that which I removed and from the
time it was installed it has been "hanging up" and making the engagement of
reverse (non synchronized) almost impossible without turning the engine
off, engaging reverse then restarting the engine with the clutch depressed
completely to the floor.
The problem is, as Kees pointed out, that there is more compressibility in
your new disc and the standard Healey clutch operating mechanism probably
does not deliver sufficient movement at the release bearing to accommodate
that compressibility.
Although you can engage your synchronized 2nd gear to get the innards of
the gearbox stationary without the gnashing of gears that can actually be
pretty hard on the sychromesh if you have to do it for a prolonged period.
Grinding it into reverse or 1st is a definite no-no. Little pieces of
hardened gear teeth will chip off as you do that and they will eventually
find their way into the gearbox bearings and ruin them.
Assuming that you have ensured that the clutch is delivering a full stroke
you really should bite the bullet and change the disc for something with
less compressibility.
BTW do check for wear on the fork and clevis pin of the master cylinder at
the pedal, that can make quite a difference. I wrote a little article on
that which you can read here. <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=82>
I have now done some 5000 km in the Subaru, without taking my own advice I
might add, and I'm now able to get it into reverse without having to turn
the engine off first then starting it in gear so I can back up.
I should also mention that changing the length of the slave cylinder push
rod may fix the problem BUT lengthening that rod in an effort to do so will
probably result in there being a preload on the release bearing such that
it is forced against the pressure plate at all times resulting in premature
wear of both the bearing and the bearing face on the pressure plate.

Michael S
<http://here.>


On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 2:58 PM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

> I recently reinstalled my trans/OD in my BJ8. The OD was sent out for a
> rebuild. The transmission had been working perfectly, prior to removal. I
> only
> had 25,000 miles on the entire drive train, but while the trans/OD was out
> I
> decided to replace the clutch disc because it would be easy to do. The old
> disc looked great. It measured 9.5" diameter which is the specification
> for a
> BJ8 clutch. I picked a new one up at Victoria British, but when I got home
> it
> measured 9-1/16" diameter. I called Moss & they assured me that their
> clutch
> measured 9.5" so I ordered it. When it arrived it was identical in every
> way
> to the Victoria British disc. The exact same product. I knew it was not a
> big
> difference so I installed it. The thickness of the new disc was slightly
> (less
> the 1/32") thicker that the old disc. My problem is that now I am having a
> lot
> of trouble getting into 1st & reverse when stopped, even if I go into 2nd
> before trying to  shift into 1st or reverse. It is acting like the clutch
> has
> not fully released even though I have the pedal on the floor & there is no
> air
> in the system. I now have 180 miles on the new clutch. Any ideas what is
> causing this issue & will it go away when the clutch gets more broken in?
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 16:05:33 2013
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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 23:52:57 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
References: <020f01ce6158$3b26fbf0$b174f3d0$@glasgow-ky.com>
	<51AE483F.3090000@chello.nl>
	<6A08D665-D4EF-483B-AC53-AA74AA50940C@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

AFAIAC the octane boosters act and are sold as lead replacements over here.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 4-6-2013 23:23, Richard Ewald schreef:
> You are confusing octane boosters with lead replacements.
> Octane booster prevent preignition which can destroy an engine if severe enough.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 4, 2013, at 13:04, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> No, unless you have a very high compression engine, and even than. If you can get high octane leaded petrol it would be much more effective than octane boosters. Perhaps available from army, aviation, racing sources.
>> The whole thing about converted cylinder heads with hardened seats when lead free petrol was introduced now shows to be totally unnecessary and has earned the industry billions. Only in very few occasions there has been excessive wear of the valve seats.
>> If your car runs OK on unleaded (no pinking) and there is no discernible wear of the valve seats (reduced valve clearances) there is absolutely no reason to use octane boosters or high octane petrol for that matter.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>>
>>
>> Op 4-6-2013 21:18, Charles Rice schreef:
>>> Thanks for all the advice on car covers.
>>>
>>> Now my next question:  Do "Octane Booster" additives do any good?
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 16:06:11 2013
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	<000f01ce6166$430b5e20$c9221a60$@rr.com>
	<41E028EE-CB80-4DA0-B45E-794F52CE4519@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 17:53:32 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>, "Gregory M.
	Mandas" <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre-ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Many years back I thought I would resolve that problem by installing the
rod and piston from an AUC8117 (BJ8 damper) into the earlier brass "lid".
It didn't work ....all that happened was that when the engine backfired is
that the whole damper assembly popped up taking the threads from the top of
the suction chamber with it!!!

Michael S


On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 5:21 PM, Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Steve,
>
> Thank you. That's exactly when it happened to me, getting off too quickly
> when
> she was cold.
>
> Greg
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone.
>
>
> On Jun 4, 2013, at 4:58 PM, "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:
>
> > Greg, I have seen dampers with the wires through the top, and I have seen
> > dampers where the top had been repaired with JB Weld after the wire went
> > through the top.  My carbs will spit back occasionally if I try to move
> off
> > too quickly before the engine is warm enough, but fortunately, my
> complete
> > damper will blow out top and all -- always the front one.  I think that's
> > better than blowing the wire through the top.
> >
> > You can get a new damper from Joe Curto http://www.joecurto.com.
> > I just bought a replacement set of points and diaphragm for my SU fuel
> pump
> > from him.
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC  USA
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Greg Mandas
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 3:47 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Pre-ignition
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > <small>
> > Anyone ever open their bonnet to see the dashpot damper wire sticking out
> > the top of the dashpot cover?  I'm thinking it was due to backfiring back
> > thruogh the carbs.
> >
> > Can I get a replacement damper?
> > The current one is green with some numbers on it.
> >
> > Greg
> > 65BJ8
> > </small>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 16:09:53 2013
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Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 00:04:57 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8D02F6C95F2C0E5-21B8-5FCC9@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAB3i7LK2A1QQiKuo_C_AnmjrEOqSZm6oB_uWwwRRnPdz5QQpLQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Startiing an engine, and certainly the old engines, in gear with the 
clutch pressed down to the floor is a bad idea as you will put a heavy 
load on the axial bearing of the crankshaft when there is no lubrication 
yet. Also your carbon release bearing will be quickly destroyed.
Usually selecting second gear slowly with little pressure on the gear 
lever will do the trick without much harm done to the syncro-ring.
The clutch plate usually settles down after use, in town traffic a bit 
faster, motorway only rather slow.
I have had the same trouble on my Jensen Healey and the Impreza (new 
clutch every ca. 100.000 miles) and both settled down after a few 
thousand miles of very dense Dutch traffic.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 4-6-2013 23:45, Michael Salter schreef:
> Hi Gary,
> I have been struggling with exactly the same issue with the new
> (aftermarket) clutch that I installed in my Subaru "winter beater".
> The disc was considerably thicker than that which I removed and from the
> time it was installed it has been "hanging up" and making the engagement of
> reverse (non synchronized) almost impossible without turning the engine
> off, engaging reverse then restarting the engine with the clutch depressed
> completely to the floor.
> The problem is, as Kees pointed out, that there is more compressibility in
> your new disc and the standard Healey clutch operating mechanism probably
> does not deliver sufficient movement at the release bearing to accommodate
> that compressibility.
> Although you can engage your synchronized 2nd gear to get the innards of
> the gearbox stationary without the gnashing of gears that can actually be
> pretty hard on the sychromesh if you have to do it for a prolonged period.
> Grinding it into reverse or 1st is a definite no-no. Little pieces of
> hardened gear teeth will chip off as you do that and they will eventually
> find their way into the gearbox bearings and ruin them.
> Assuming that you have ensured that the clutch is delivering a full stroke
> you really should bite the bullet and change the disc for something with
> less compressibility.
> BTW do check for wear on the fork and clevis pin of the master cylinder at
> the pedal, that can make quite a difference. I wrote a little article on
> that which you can read here. <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=82>
> I have now done some 5000 km in the Subaru, without taking my own advice I
> might add, and I'm now able to get it into reverse without having to turn
> the engine off first then starting it in gear so I can back up.
> I should also mention that changing the length of the slave cylinder push
> rod may fix the problem BUT lengthening that rod in an effort to do so will
> probably result in there being a preload on the release bearing such that
> it is forced against the pressure plate at all times resulting in premature
> wear of both the bearing and the bearing face on the pressure plate.
>
> Michael S
> <http://here.>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 2:58 PM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> I recently reinstalled my trans/OD in my BJ8. The OD was sent out for a
>> rebuild. The transmission had been working perfectly, prior to removal. I
>> only
>> had 25,000 miles on the entire drive train, but while the trans/OD was out
>> I
>> decided to replace the clutch disc because it would be easy to do. The old
>> disc looked great. It measured 9.5" diameter which is the specification
>> for a
>> BJ8 clutch. I picked a new one up at Victoria British, but when I got home
>> it
>> measured 9-1/16" diameter. I called Moss & they assured me that their
>> clutch
>> measured 9.5" so I ordered it. When it arrived it was identical in every
>> way
>> to the Victoria British disc. The exact same product. I knew it was not a
>> big
>> difference so I installed it. The thickness of the new disc was slightly
>> (less
>> the 1/32") thicker that the old disc. My problem is that now I am having a
>> lot
>> of trouble getting into 1st & reverse when stopped, even if I go into 2nd
>> before trying to  shift into 1st or reverse. It is acting like the clutch
>> has
>> not fully released even though I have the pedal on the floor & there is no
>> air
>> in the system. I now have 180 miles on the new clutch. Any ideas what is
>> causing this issue & will it go away when the clutch gets more broken in?
>> Gary Hodson
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 16:22:14 2013
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 18:10:07 -0400
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't mean to hijack the post, but I have been wondering how you evaluate a
clutch disc (drive plate) to determine if it can or could be reused. I am not
a cheapskate, but I know nothing about when this particular disc was
installed. It may be just fine, don't know.

I assume you measure the width of the friction pads but I don't know the
appropriate specs.

Michael, can you or someone else advise me on this?

Lin

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 4, 2013, at 5:45 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Gary,
> I have been struggling with exactly the same issue with the new
> (aftermarket) clutch that I installed in my Subaru "winter beater".
> The disc was considerably thicker than that which I removed and from the
> time it was installed it has been "hanging up" and making the engagement of
> reverse (non synchronized) almost impossible without turning the engine
> off, engaging reverse then restarting the engine with the clutch depressed
> completely to the floor.
> The problem is, as Kees pointed out, that there is more compressibility in
> your new disc and the standard Healey clutch operating mechanism probably
> does not deliver sufficient movement at the release bearing to accommodate
> that compressibility.
> Although you can engage your synchronized 2nd gear to get the innards of
> the gearbox stationary without the gnashing of gears that can actually be
> pretty hard on the sychromesh if you have to do it for a prolonged period.
> Grinding it into reverse or 1st is a definite no-no. Little pieces of
> hardened gear teeth will chip off as you do that and they will eventually
> find their way into the gearbox bearings and ruin them.
> Assuming that you have ensured that the clutch is delivering a full stroke
> you really should bite the bullet and change the disc for something with
> less compressibility.
> BTW do check for wear on the fork and clevis pin of the master cylinder at
> the pedal, that can make quite a difference. I wrote a little article on
> that which you can read here. <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=82>
> I have now done some 5000 km in the Subaru, without taking my own advice I
> might add, and I'm now able to get it into reverse without having to turn
> the engine off first then starting it in gear so I can back up.
> I should also mention that changing the length of the slave cylinder push
> rod may fix the problem BUT lengthening that rod in an effort to do so will
> probably result in there being a preload on the release bearing such that
> it is forced against the pressure plate at all times resulting in premature
> wear of both the bearing and the bearing face on the pressure plate.
>
> Michael S
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 00:47:34 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8D02F6C95F2C0E5-21B8-5FCC9@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAB3i7LK2A1QQiKuo_C_AnmjrEOqSZm6oB_uWwwRRnPdz5QQpLQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<99C39B3B-9D4E-4893-B7B7-8035714EB9F6@mac.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The general rule is tat you replace the complete clutch when the 
transmission is out, unless you know the condition to be very good. A 
clutch assembly is rather cheap compared to a taking a transmission out 
and putting it back in.
Genarally the rivets that hold the ling are about 1,5-2mm below the 
surface of the friction material, depending on the car. Always replace 
the disk if there is/has been any oil contamination, and when the rivet 
are less than 1mm below the surface, when the clutch cover has to be 
renewed and practically always change the release bearing, most 
certainly when it is a carbon ring. Have a look at the flywheel surface, 
if worn, scored or (partly) blued have the surface ground.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 5-6-2013 0:10, Linwood Rose schreef:
> Don't mean to hijack the post, but I have been wondering how you evaluate a
> clutch disc (drive plate) to determine if it can or could be reused. I am not
> a cheapskate, but I know nothing about when this particular disc was
> installed. It may be just fine, don't know.
>
> I assume you measure the width of the friction pads but I don't know the
> appropriate specs.
>
> Michael, can you or someone else advise me on this?
>
> Lin
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 4, 2013, at 5:45 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Gary,
>> I have been struggling with exactly the same issue with the new
>> (aftermarket) clutch that I installed in my Subaru "winter beater".
>> The disc was considerably thicker than that which I removed and from the
>> time it was installed it has been "hanging up" and making the engagement of
>> reverse (non synchronized) almost impossible without turning the engine
>> off, engaging reverse then restarting the engine with the clutch depressed
>> completely to the floor.
>> The problem is, as Kees pointed out, that there is more compressibility in
>> your new disc and the standard Healey clutch operating mechanism probably
>> does not deliver sufficient movement at the release bearing to accommodate
>> that compressibility.
>> Although you can engage your synchronized 2nd gear to get the innards of
>> the gearbox stationary without the gnashing of gears that can actually be
>> pretty hard on the sychromesh if you have to do it for a prolonged period.
>> Grinding it into reverse or 1st is a definite no-no. Little pieces of
>> hardened gear teeth will chip off as you do that and they will eventually
>> find their way into the gearbox bearings and ruin them.
>> Assuming that you have ensured that the clutch is delivering a full stroke
>> you really should bite the bullet and change the disc for something with
>> less compressibility.
>> BTW do check for wear on the fork and clevis pin of the master cylinder at
>> the pedal, that can make quite a difference. I wrote a little article on
>> that which you can read here. <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=82>
>> I have now done some 5000 km in the Subaru, without taking my own advice I
>> might add, and I'm now able to get it into reverse without having to turn
>> the engine off first then starting it in gear so I can back up.
>> I should also mention that changing the length of the slave cylinder push
>> rod may fix the problem BUT lengthening that rod in an effort to do so will
>> probably result in there being a preload on the release bearing such that
>> it is forced against the pressure plate at all times resulting in premature
>> wear of both the bearing and the bearing face on the pressure plate.
>>
>> Michael S
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 16:56:48 2013
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	<51AE6E86.20803@chello.nl>
From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 18:51:31 -0400
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks, Dave and Kees. That took care of my question!
Lin

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 4, 2013, at 6:47 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> The general rule is tat you replace the complete clutch when the
transmission is out, unless you know the condition to be very good. A clutch
assembly is rather cheap compared to a taking a transmission out and putting
it back in.
> Genarally the rivets that hold the ling are about 1,5-2mm below the surface
of the friction material, depending on the car. Always replace the disk if
there is/has been any oil contamination, and when the rivet are less than 1mm
below the surface, when the clutch cover has to be renewed and practically
always change the release bearing, most certainly when it is a carbon ring.
Have a look at the flywheel surface, if worn, scored or (partly) blued have
the surface ground.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 5-6-2013 0:10, Linwood Rose schreef:
>> Don't mean to hijack the post, but I have been wondering how you evaluate
a
>> clutch disc (drive plate) to determine if it can or could be reused. I am
not
>> a cheapskate, but I know nothing about when this particular disc was
>> installed. It may be just fine, don't know.
>>
>> I assume you measure the width of the friction pads but I don't know the
>> appropriate specs.
>>
>> Michael, can you or someone else advise me on this?
>>
>> Lin
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Jun 4, 2013, at 5:45 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Gary,
>>> I have been struggling with exactly the same issue with the new
>>> (aftermarket) clutch that I installed in my Subaru "winter beater".
>>> The disc was considerably thicker than that which I removed and from the
>>> time it was installed it has been "hanging up" and making the engagement
of
>>> reverse (non synchronized) almost impossible without turning the engine
>>> off, engaging reverse then restarting the engine with the clutch
depressed
>>> completely to the floor.
>>> The problem is, as Kees pointed out, that there is more compressibility
in
>>> your new disc and the standard Healey clutch operating mechanism probably
>>> does not deliver sufficient movement at the release bearing to
accommodate
>>> that compressibility.
>>> Although you can engage your synchronized 2nd gear to get the innards of
>>> the gearbox stationary without the gnashing of gears that can actually be
>>> pretty hard on the sychromesh if you have to do it for a prolonged
period.
>>> Grinding it into reverse or 1st is a definite no-no. Little pieces of
>>> hardened gear teeth will chip off as you do that and they will eventually
>>> find their way into the gearbox bearings and ruin them.
>>> Assuming that you have ensured that the clutch is delivering a full
stroke
>>> you really should bite the bullet and change the disc for something with
>>> less compressibility.
>>> BTW do check for wear on the fork and clevis pin of the master cylinder
at
>>> the pedal, that can make quite a difference. I wrote a little article on
>>> that which you can read here. <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=82>
>>> I have now done some 5000 km in the Subaru, without taking my own advice
I
>>> might add, and I'm now able to get it into reverse without having to turn
>>> the engine off first then starting it in gear so I can back up.
>>> I should also mention that changing the length of the slave cylinder push
>>> rod may fix the problem BUT lengthening that rod in an effort to do so
will
>>> probably result in there being a preload on the release bearing such that
>>> it is forced against the pressure plate at all times resulting in
premature
>>> wear of both the bearing and the bearing face on the pressure plate.
>>>
>>> Michael S
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose@mac.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 16:57:56 2013
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From: "Skip Saunders" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "'Charles Rice'" <crice_home@glasgow-ky.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <020f01ce6158$3b26fbf0$b174f3d0$@glasgow-ky.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 18:52:32 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ohhhh NOOOO!!!!.... Don't change the topic without changing the subject
line.

Please end this thread and start a new one on Octane Boosters.

Thanks
-skip-

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Charles Rice
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 3:18 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice

Thanks for all the advice on car covers.  

Now my next question:  Do "Octane Booster" additives do any good?

 

Charles Rice BN2
$12.75
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Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7@mindspring.com
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References: <1370375244.79992.YahooMailClassic@web162901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<000f01ce6166$430b5e20$c9221a60$@rr.com>
	<41E028EE-CB80-4DA0-B45E-794F52CE4519@yahoo.com>
	<CAB3i7L+p5E3kw6MnBFjHS30rWfi6+ByG_pKJDDUqVGbDSxqPBQ@mail.gmail.com>
From: Greg <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 19:02:30 -0400
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre-ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This is the reason for this list.

I thought I had totally screwed something up, come to find out it happens and
thank goodness the cap was plastic so the shaft could pop out the top.

Thanks again.

Greg

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 4, 2013, at 5:53 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:

> Many years back I thought I would resolve that problem by installing the rod
and piston from an AUC8117 (BJ8 damper) into the earlier brass "lid".
> It didn't work ....all that happened was that when the engine backfired is
that the whole damper assembly popped up taking the threads from the top of
the suction chamber with it!!!
>
> Michael S
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 5:21 PM, Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Steve,
>>
>> Thank you. That's exactly when it happened to me, getting off too quickly
when
>> she was cold.
>>
>> Greg
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone.
>>
>>
>> On Jun 4, 2013, at 4:58 PM, "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>> > Greg, I have seen dampers with the wires through the top, and I have
seen
>> > dampers where the top had been repaired with JB Weld after the wire went
>> > through the top.  My carbs will spit back occasionally if I try to move
off
>> > too quickly before the engine is warm enough, but fortunately, my
complete
>> > damper will blow out top and all -- always the front one.  I think
that's
>> > better than blowing the wire through the top.
>> >
>> > You can get a new damper from Joe Curto http://www.joecurto.com.
>> > I just bought a replacement set of points and diaphragm for my SU fuel
pump
>> > from him.
>> >
>> > Steve Byers
>> > HBJ8L/36666
>> > BJ8 Registry
>> > Havelock, NC  USA
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> > On Behalf Of Greg Mandas
>> > Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 3:47 PM
>> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> > Subject: [Healeys] Pre-ignition
>> >
>> > Hi,
>> >
>> > <small>
>> > Anyone ever open their bonnet to see the dashpot damper wire sticking
out
>> > the top of the dashpot cover?  I'm thinking it was due to backfiring
back
>> > thruogh the carbs.
>> >
>> > Can I get a replacement damper?
>> > The current one is green with some numbers on it.
>> >
>> > Greg
>> > 65BJ8
>> > </small>
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >
>> > Healeys@autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>
>
> --
> Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 17:13:14 2013
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	Tue, 04 Jun 2013 18:08:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8D02F6C95F2C0E5-21B8-5FCC9@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAB3i7LK2A1QQiKuo_C_AnmjrEOqSZm6oB_uWwwRRnPdz5QQpLQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 19:08:12 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQJjCT530Qa+Kj9wzpTGs9EyF42ckACiAQXJl/fM0iA=
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Personal experience on the master cylinder forks and clevis pins. When I did
my complete brake job two years ago (Master cylinder, reservoir, wheel
cylinders, fourway, pipes, hoses. I found that the old clevis pin was worn
as in Michael's blog. Through a stroke of genius, I checked the clutch
linkage since my head was already up there and found that the fork holes
were worn into ovals and the clevis pin almost worn through although I had
no indication of anything wrong with the clutch. Clevis pins are very cheap
and not worth being overlooked in a normal annual checkup.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 5:45 PM
To: warthodson@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch

Hi Gary,
I have been struggling with exactly the same issue with the new
(aftermarket) clutch that I installed in my Subaru "winter beater".
The disc was considerably thicker than that which I removed and from the
time it was installed it has been "hanging up" and making the engagement of
reverse (non synchronized) almost impossible without turning the engine off,
engaging reverse then restarting the engine with the clutch depressed
completely to the floor.
The problem is, as Kees pointed out, that there is more compressibility in
your new disc and the standard Healey clutch operating mechanism probably
does not deliver sufficient movement at the release bearing to accommodate
that compressibility.
Although you can engage your synchronized 2nd gear to get the innards of the
gearbox stationary without the gnashing of gears that can actually be pretty
hard on the sychromesh if you have to do it for a prolonged period.
Grinding it into reverse or 1st is a definite no-no. Little pieces of
hardened gear teeth will chip off as you do that and they will eventually
find their way into the gearbox bearings and ruin them.
Assuming that you have ensured that the clutch is delivering a full stroke
you really should bite the bullet and change the disc for something with
less compressibility.
BTW do check for wear on the fork and clevis pin of the master cylinder at
the pedal, that can make quite a difference. I wrote a little article on
that which you can read here. <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=82>
I have now done some 5000 km in the Subaru, without taking my own advice I
might add, and I'm now able to get it into reverse without having to turn
the engine off first then starting it in gear so I can back up.
I should also mention that changing the length of the slave cylinder push
rod may fix the problem BUT lengthening that rod in an effort to do so will
probably result in there being a preload on the release bearing such that it
is forced against the pressure plate at all times resulting in premature
wear of both the bearing and the bearing face on the pressure plate.

Michael S
<http://here.>
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 18:12:01 2013
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	-0700
From: "Dan Stromquist" <dan@warner-associates.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1370375244.79992.YahooMailClassic@web162901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<000f01ce6166$430b5e20$c9221a60$@rr.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 19:06:47 -0500
Thread-Index: AQJTqVUaljuRZSRkssLHZGRDijpHxwITU94HmAsSqIA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre-ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim Taylor used to drill a small hole in the tops of the dampers he
refurbished-at least he did on mine.    Maybe that was to prevent the pin,
etc  from blowing out on a cold start backfire.


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 3:58 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre-ignition

Greg, I have seen dampers with the wires through the top, and I have seen
dampers where the top had been repaired with JB Weld after the wire went
through the top.  My carbs will spit back occasionally if I try to move off
too quickly before the engine is warm enough, but fortunately, my complete
damper will blow out top and all -- always the front one.  I think that's
better than blowing the wire through the top.

You can get a new damper from Joe Curto http://www.joecurto.com.
I just bought a replacement set of points and diaphragm for my SU fuel pump
from him.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Mandas
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 3:47 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Pre-ignition

Hi,

<small>
Anyone ever open their bonnet to see the dashpot damper wire sticking out
the top of the dashpot cover?  I'm thinking it was due to backfiring back
thruogh the carbs.

Can I get a replacement damper?  
The current one is green with some numbers on it. 

Greg
65BJ8
</small>
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dan@warner-associates.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 18:42:02 2013
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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 17:35:56 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <1370375244.79992.YahooMailClassic@web162901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<000f01ce6166$430b5e20$c9221a60$@rr.com>
	<004501ce6180$9336bfb0$b9a43f10$@warner-associates.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre-ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The dampers on my HS4 carbs have the hole.

John Spaur

At 07:06 PM 6/4/2013 -0500, Dan Stromquist wrote:
>Jim Taylor used to drill a small hole in the tops of the dampers he
>refurbished-at least he did on mine.    Maybe that was to prevent the pin,
>etc  from blowing out on a cold start backfire.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 18:59:26 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'john spaur'" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1370375244.79992.YahooMailClassic@web162901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com><000f01ce6166$430b5e20$c9221a60$@rr.com><004501ce6180$9336bfb0$b9a43f10$@warner-associates.com>
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 18:54:14 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre-ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For the record: Some SU's are vented internally and some through the cap.
Also for the record. Not all dampers are the same, either in rate of flow
back or even in diameter. They are not mix and match at your whim. Same goes
for the piston springs.
Dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 6:36 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pre-ignition

The dampers on my HS4 carbs have the hole.

John Spaur

At 07:06 PM 6/4/2013 -0500, Dan Stromquist wrote:
>Jim Taylor used to drill a small hole in the tops of the dampers he
>refurbished-at least he did on mine.    Maybe that was to prevent the pin,
>etc  from blowing out on a cold start backfire.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 20:07:12 2013
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Subject: [Healeys]  SU Carburettors (was: Pre-ignition)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yup.  Our BN2 had mis-matched dampers, and the carb pistons wouldn't rise and fall in sync.  I managed to cobble two 
with the same characteristics together from some spare carbs.

The small, brass 'pistons' on the end vary.  They function as check valves, allowing the pistons to fall quickly and 
rise slower (upward movement closes the 'valves,' and downward movement opens them).  They are rather intricately cast 
and/or machined--another testament to the sophistication and refinement of SU carbs.

Bob


On 6/4/2013 5:54 PM, David Porter wrote:
> For the record: Some SU's are vented internally and some through the cap.
> Also for the record. Not all dampers are the same, either in rate of flow
> back or even in diameter. They are not mix and match at your whim. Same goes
> for the piston springs.
> Dave
>
> frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
>
> gallery:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
> GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world
>
>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 23:23:16 2013
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	healeys@autox.team.net; Wed, 05 Jun 2013 01:16:39 -0400
From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <003e01ce6085$b55163d0$1ff42b70$@glasgow-ky.com><B42F7F09-FDF6-4E5C-BD29-1834B6B53440@sbcglobal.net>
	<E8FEC74A5ADC4C9C874AAD0FE37078B2@shinynewlaptop>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 22:16:38 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car cover advice
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

George:  I was watching Velocity channel this evening and saw a commercial 
for 3M Paint Defender System.  It is a rattle can spray on liquid that turns 
to film to protect the paint.  It can be peeled off later.  I Googled it and 
all the information is available there.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 23:37:14 2013
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	<000f01ce6166$430b5e20$c9221a60$@rr.com>
	<004501ce6180$9336bfb0$b9a43f10$@warner-associates.com>
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	<51AE96FD.5060006@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 07:30:52 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU Carburettors (was: Pre-ignition)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There is an easy test, I always do with multiple SU installations. I put
the dashpots on a table next to eachother, and visualy check if they fall
approximatly the same same speed or not. I  do the test with and without
springs. This is not a "scientific" test (best would be to test the dampers
with vacuum, but I dont have the instrument yet).
With the most precise efforts You always have some difference between the
carbs, one can see it on a rolling road.
The most wierd was a Mini Cooper, which was working flowlessly up to a
given rpm (5500 aprox), where suddenly one carb dashpot fell in and one
went up completely. I changed the dashpot, the carb without success. I
still dont know what it was.

Gergo


2013/6/5 Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>

> Yup.  Our BN2 had mis-matched dampers, and the carb pistons wouldn't rise
> and fall in sync.  I managed to cobble two with the same characteristics
> together from some spare carbs.
>
> The small, brass 'pistons' on the end vary.  They function as check
> valves, allowing the pistons to fall quickly and rise slower (upward
> movement closes the 'valves,' and downward movement opens them).  They are
> rather intricately cast and/or machined--another testament to the
> sophistication and refinement of SU carbs.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/4/2013 5:54 PM, David Porter wrote:
>
>> For the record: Some SU's are vented internally and some through the cap.
>> Also for the record. Not all dampers are the same, either in rate of flow
>> back or even in diameter. They are not mix and match at your whim. Same
>> goes
>> for the piston springs.
>> Dave
>>
>> frogeye@porterscustom.com
>>
>> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
>> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
>> 505-352-1378
>> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
>> Porter Custom Bicycles
>>
>> gallery:
>> http://picasaweb.google.com/**porterscustombicycles/**
>> PorterCustomBicyclesStuff<http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff>
>>
>> GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world
>>
>>
>>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 00:07:14 2013
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Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 07:53:17 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
References: <51ae6ed7.4655320a.1430.ffffb8fa@mx.google.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have noticed the trend, but I am not sure if we are talking about most 
cars. I am always a bit apprehensive when I drive such a car, but I 
suppose they have solved the problem by fitting a larger/stronger axial 
bearing.
The wearing of the axial bearing has always been an issue on older 
British cars, talk e.g. to the Triumph guys.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 5-6-2013 0:48, Michael Salter schreef:
> Kees you stated the following:
>
> Startiing an engine, and certainly the old engines, in gear with the
> clutch pressed down to the floor is a bad idea as you will put a heavy
> load on the axial bearing of the crankshaft when there is no lubrication
> yet. Also your carbon release bearing will be quickly destroyed.
>
> I don't understand.
>   Most, if not all, modern cars have a switch on the clutch to prevent 
> you starting the engine unless the clutch is fully depressed!!!
>
> Michael S
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Sent: b2013-b06-b04 6:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch
>
> Startiing an engine, and certainly the old engines, in gear with the
> clutch pressed down to the floor is a bad idea as you will put a heavy
> load on the axial bearing of the crankshaft when there is no lubrication
> yet. Also your carbon release bearing will be quickly destroyed.
> Usually selecting second gear slowly with little pressure on the gear
> lever will do the trick without much harm done to the syncro-ring.
> The clutch plate usually settles down after use, in town traffic a bit
> faster, motorway only rather slow.
> I have had the same trouble on my Jensen Healey and the Impreza (new
> clutch every ca. 100.000 miles) and both settled down after a few
> thousand miles of very dense Dutch traffic.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 01:25:28 2013
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Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 09:20:19 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] HD8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I am looing for rebuildable HD8(s). Anybody accidently has such thing?

Gergo
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 06:21:59 2013
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Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 05:13:54 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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	<51AED24D.4@chello.nl>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My Mustang has this 'feature.'  Maybe because modern computer-controlled, fuel-injected engines fire almost immediately 
and don't require much cranking wear is kept to a minimum.

I will admit over the course of my 'career' I've attempted to start cars in gear--causing a lurch--but I've never hit 
anything.

Bob


On 6/4/2013 10:53 PM, Oudesluys wrote:
> I have noticed the trend, but I am not sure if we are talking about most
> cars. I am always a bit apprehensive when I drive such a car, but I
> suppose they have solved the problem by fitting a larger/stronger axial
> bearing.
> The wearing of the axial bearing has always been an issue on older
> British cars, talk e.g. to the Triumph guys.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Op 5-6-2013 0:48, Michael Salter schreef:
>> Kees you stated the following:
>>
>> Startiing an engine, and certainly the old engines, in gear with the
>> clutch pressed down to the floor is a bad idea as you will put a heavy
>> load on the axial bearing of the crankshaft when there is no lubrication
>> yet. Also your carbon release bearing will be quickly destroyed.
>>
>> I don't understand.
>>    Most, if not all, modern cars have a switch on the clutch to prevent
>> you starting the engine unless the clutch is fully depressed!!!
>>
>> Michael S
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Startiing an engine, and certainly the old engines, in gear with the
>> clutch pressed down to the floor is a bad idea as you will put a heavy
>> load on the axial bearing of the crankshaft when there is no lubrication
>> yet. Also your carbon release bearing will be quickly destroyed.
>> Usually selecting second gear slowly with little pressure on the gear
>> lever will do the trick without much harm done to the syncro-ring.
>> The clutch plate usually settles down after use, in town traffic a bit
>> faster, motorway only rather slow.
>> I have had the same trouble on my Jensen Healey and the Impreza (new
>> clutch every ca. 100.000 miles) and both settled down after a few
>> thousand miles of very dense Dutch traffic.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 06:28:09 2013
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Found one set on eBay:

*http://tinyurl.com/lrbxztm

Bob
*

On 6/5/2013 12:20 AM, Austin Healey wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am looing for rebuildable HD8(s). Anybody accidently has such thing?
>
> Gergo
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 06:39:22 2013
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Received: by 10.76.128.205 with HTTP; Wed, 5 Jun 2013 05:24:14 -0700
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Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 07:24:14 -0500
From: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest problem with gmail on the iPhone
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone else having issues with the digest using the gmail for iPhones?

When I use the native iOS mail app, the individual posts in the digest
appear as separate MIME attachments.   When I switched to the gmail app,
everything is cut off after than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."

On Wednesday, June 5, 2013, wrote:

> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
>         healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         healeys-request@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         healeys-owner@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
>


-- 
Patton Dickson  - Plano, TX
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 08:23:36 2013
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	recipients> (version=TLSv1.2 cipher=RC4-SHA bits=128/128); Wed, 05 Jun
	2013 07:09:50 -0700 (PDT)
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>,  "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 10:09:40 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You do have to be careful to get the correct type.
As I recall most Jag SUs are the"horizontal" type.
BJ8s use a different float chamber to make them"semi horizontal" .
Michael S

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
Sent: b2013-b06-b05 8:23 AM
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8

Found one set on eBay:

*http://tinyurl.com/lrbxztm

Bob
*

On 6/5/2013 12:20 AM, Austin Healey wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am looing for rebuildable HD8(s). Anybody accidently has such thing?
>
> Gergo
>
>
>


--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 08:54:43 2013
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  (PDT)
References: <51af46ae.028f3c0a.2a57.ffffe5ba@mx.google.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 16:49:16 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike is spot on as always, but the float bowls are ok, other parts have
gone due to corrosion.

Gergo


2013/6/5 Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>

> You do have to be careful to get the correct type.
> As I recall most Jag SUs are the"horizontal" type.
> BJ8s use a different float chamber to make them"semi horizontal" .
> Michael S
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
> Sent: b 2013-b 06-b 05 8:23 AM
> To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8
>
> Found one set on eBay:
>
> *http://tinyurl.com/lrbxztm
>
> Bob
> *
>
> On 6/5/2013 12:20 AM, Austin Healey wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > I am looing for rebuildable HD8(s). Anybody accidently has such thing?
> >
> > Gergo
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 09:43:45 2013
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Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 15:34:02 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1370446442;
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Wondered about that, too. Couldn't tell for sure from the photo (they looked
to be side-draft). Seller probably cross-referenced 'HD8' and listed whatever
came up.

Still think eBay's the best bet--I don't recall seeing BJ8 carbs for sale
anywhere else, at least in a long time (assuming Gergo's looking for BJ8
carbs, which he didn't specify).

Bob

--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

----- Original Message -----




You do have to be careful to get the correct type.
As I recall most Jag SUs are the"horizontal" type.
BJ8s use a different float chamber to make them"semi horizontal" .
Michael S

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: b2013-b06-b05 8:23 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8

Found one set on eBay:

*http://tinyurl.com/lrbxztm

Bob
*

On 6/5/2013 12:20 AM, Austin Healey wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am looing for rebuildable HD8(s). Anybody accidently has such thing?
>
> Gergo
>
>
>


--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 09:57:23 2013
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References: <51af46ae.028f3c0a.2a57.ffffe5ba@mx.google.com>
	<1978480178.753234.1370446442499.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 17:43:42 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Bob,

I am looking for a set for the Jag. I realy forgot to tell.
Mainly I need 2 dashpot assemblies, and 1 mixture setting piece. Maybe an
auxilary carb will get on the list as at I am still trying to take it
apart, but its frozen.

Gergo


2013/6/5 Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>

> Wondered about that, too. Couldn't tell for sure from the photo (they
> looked
> to be side-draft). Seller probably cross-referenced 'HD8' and listed
> whatever
> came up.
>
> Still think eBay's the best bet--I don't recall seeing BJ8 carbs for sale
> anywhere else, at least in a long time (assuming Gergo's looking for BJ8
> carbs, which he didn't specify).
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
>
> You do have to be careful to get the correct type.
> As I recall most Jag SUs are the"horizontal" type.
> BJ8s use a different float chamber to make them"semi horizontal" .
> Michael S
>
> From: Bob Spidell
> Sent: b 2013-b 06-b 05 8:23 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8
>
> Found one set on eBay:
>
> *http://tinyurl.com/lrbxztm
>
> Bob
> *
>
> On 6/5/2013 12:20 AM, Austin Healey wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > I am looing for rebuildable HD8(s). Anybody accidently has such thing?
> >
> > Gergo
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 10:23:28 2013
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	Wed, 5 Jun 2013 08:58:42 -0700
From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'Austin Healey'" <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
References: <51af46ae.028f3c0a.2a57.ffffe5ba@mx.google.com>
	<1978480178.753234.1370446442499.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<CA+QDXmATLaNjN2ZSOrGYnHiQMmc5jn8C-CuoNnvBEms5K0vUXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 08:58:22 -0700
Thread-Index: AQI1hcXWK9MEizLs9FTXw2xqiMrxqgGJpvi5Ae2aQMmYPUTLcA==
Content-Language: en-us
	FILETIME=[8D50E2D0:01CE6205]
Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gergo,

My XK 150 has 2 HD6 Carbs (1 3/4"), although admittedly it's way
undercarbed.   It's a 3.8L with some hopped up cams.  

 Are you upgrading to HD8's  or do you have a triple HD8 setup currently?

I've been toying with the idea of upgrading to HD8's.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 11:01:27 2013
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From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson@midwestarchaeology.com>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <51af46ae.028f3c0a.2a57.ffffe5ba@mx.google.com>
	<1978480178.753234.1370446442499.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 11:40:42 -0500
Thread-Index: AQI1hcXWK9MEizLs9FTXw2xqiMrxqgGJpvi5Ae2aQMkBtMPs95gvqWEw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought a couple HD8 carbs on Ebay years back, $225 for the pair.  Not a
bad deal.  The issue is as other have stated, the float bowls are parallel
with the carbs and the ones for the Healey need to be canted slightly.  The
carbs I bought were from a Jag most likely.  I found two Healey float bowls
that are correct.  If I'm not mistaken, I should be able to put them on my
BJ7 once I get a 2" manifold.  Right now I have three HS6 carbs on bored out
to 1 3/4 manifolds which work......sometimes.  I guess that most use HD6
carbs for this application.

Randy Dickson
63 BJ7
60 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jonas Payne
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 10:58 AM
To: 'Austin Healey'
Cc: 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8

Gergo,

My XK 150 has 2 HD6 Carbs (1 3/4"), although admittedly it's way
undercarbed.   It's a 3.8L with some hopped up cams.  

 Are you upgrading to HD8's  or do you have a triple HD8 setup currently?

I've been toying with the idea of upgrading to HD8's.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 11:02:09 2013
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Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 12:48:39 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Gergo,
I have quite a selection of disassembled HD8 (BJ8) carburetors.
If you don't need complete assembled carbs but are looking to replace parts
like main bodies, suction champers let me know what you need.

Michael S


On Wed, Jun 5, 2013 at 3:20 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I am looing for rebuildable HD8(s). Anybody accidently has such thing?
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 12:18:55 2013
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 11:13:29 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8 float bowls
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The HD6 slanted float bowls are interchangeable with the Jag HD8 straight
float bowls.

 

I have a spare set of the slanted bowls. If interested contact me offlist.

 

 

--

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 12:19:37 2013
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Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 20:14:24 +0200
To: "Forum Healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] HD8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gergo,

 have you checked with Burlen Fuel Systems http://burlen.co.uk/ . They
sell HD8s new reasonably priced. No need to buy these junk used ones. 
Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 12:33:30 2013
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Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 14:21:34 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: John H <jhomonek@mindspring.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Complete HD8, Intake, Linkage set up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a complete set up that I was going to install on my BN7.  I really don't think I will get around to doing the conversion and would sell the set up.

It includes, from a BJ8:
rebuilt HD8s (with the complete rebuild kit)
Linkage from the firewall back
Intake manifold
Also have a set of exhaust manifolds to go with it...already painted but needs studs.

Contact me offline for more info.
John Homonek
Atlanta AHCA

1958 BN7 - 1974 Jensen Healey
bn7@mindspring.com



John Homonek
bn7@mindspring.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 13:05:33 2013
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Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 14:54:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: carroll phillips <bjcap@optonline.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Healeys] Gergos HD8s
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gergo,

Dont remember if your car had a 3.4 or 3.8,  Irreguardless I think they 
were all thermo carb HD's

Carroll Phillips

Top Down Restorations
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 17:17:31 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] tuning and timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok, I checked the archives but still have questions about timing and 
tuning the 3000 engine with three HS4 carbs.

1. The basics are set the valve clearances then set the breaker points.
2. Static time the car with #1 at TDC and pulley mark lined up with 
the timing cover pointer.
3. Set up the carb jets per the manual.

 From reading the archives it is not clear to me if the static timing 
should be advanced 10-15 degrees or static on the mark as the book states.

Some posts stated it should be advanced as much as 35 degrees. Is 
that not when the engine is running at higher rpm's and the 
mechanical advance and vacuum advance have kicked in or should the 
static advance be higher?

It seems the only way I can get the idle down low enough is to have 
the car static timed on the pointer and pulley marks. The carbs are 
rebuilt and there are no air leaks.

What should the basic timing be when I am tuning the carbs?

Any clues and help people can provide would be appreciated.

John Spaur
San Jose
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 19:14:53 2013
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Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 18:06:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: josef-eckert@t-online.de
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
	TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
	tests=BSF_SC0_MISMATCH_TO, NO_REAL_NAME
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Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If you have read some of my very old emails. Burlens made 15 years ago or so had their own set of problems. Perhaps they have cleaned up their act by now.
I would continue with old original castings and I have. My Burlens are in the closet.
Ken Freese65 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: josef-eckert@t-online.de
To: "Forum Healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 5, 2013 11:14:24 AM
Subject: [Healeys] HD8

Gergo,

 have you checked with Burlen Fuel Systems http://burlen.co.uk/ . They
sell HD8s new reasonably priced. No need to buy these junk used ones. 
Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 23:59:46 -0400
From: Elton Schulz <eschulz@frontiernet.net>
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To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Removing main bearing caps
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Fellow Listers,
Anyone know the thread size of the center hole of the main bearing caps? 
I plan on using a slide hammer to pull them off the crank.
Thanks,
Elton
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 23:55:22 2013
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130605170902.0208f498@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 07:37:09 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] tuning and timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Are You sure that the carbs are rebuilt correctly? The position of the
butterflys is very delicate. If they are not spot on, You cannot close them
perfectly.

Normaly with HS4s, you should be able to set the idle regardless of the
timing.

Can You set the idling too low, soo that the engine stops?

Gergo


2013/6/6 john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>

> Ok, I checked the archives but still have questions about timing and
> tuning the 3000 engine with three HS4 carbs.
>
> 1. The basics are set the valve clearances then set the breaker points.
> 2. Static time the car with #1 at TDC and pulley mark lined up with the
> timing cover pointer.
> 3. Set up the carb jets per the manual.
>
> From reading the archives it is not clear to me if the static timing
> should be advanced 10-15 degrees or static on the mark as the book states.
>
> Some posts stated it should be advanced as much as 35 degrees. Is that not
> when the engine is running at higher rpm's and the mechanical advance and
> vacuum advance have kicked in or should the static advance be higher?
>
> It seems the only way I can get the idle down low enough is to have the
> car static timed on the pointer and pulley marks. The carbs are rebuilt and
> there are no air leaks.
>
> What should the basic timing be when I am tuning the carbs?
>
> Any clues and help people can provide would be appreciated.
>
> John Spaur
> San Jose
> '62 BT7
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 00:53:45 2013
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	<CA+QDXmDQDaM0BG+tWFJtHSXPco6MiL=HSTQhE0TcHUHBk8dAzw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 07:48:37 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] tuning and timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John

With the poor quality of todays fuel I think that 35 degrees advance is too
much for a road car. To answer one of your questions, that would be the
total advance when the mechanical advance is fully operational. The vacuum
advance is a fuel economy measure and only operates when the throttle is
slightly open.

Derek


On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 6:37 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com> wrote:

> Are You sure that the carbs are rebuilt correctly? The position of the
> butterflys is very delicate. If they are not spot on, You cannot close them
> perfectly.
>
> Normaly with HS4s, you should be able to set the idle regardless of the
> timing.
>
> Can You set the idling too low, soo that the engine stops?
>
> Gergo
>
>
> 2013/6/6 john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>
> > Ok, I checked the archives but still have questions about timing and
> > tuning the 3000 engine with three HS4 carbs.
> >
> > 1. The basics are set the valve clearances then set the breaker points.
> > 2. Static time the car with #1 at TDC and pulley mark lined up with the
> > timing cover pointer.
> > 3. Set up the carb jets per the manual.
> >
> > From reading the archives it is not clear to me if the static timing
> > should be advanced 10-15 degrees or static on the mark as the book
> states.
> >
> > Some posts stated it should be advanced as much as 35 degrees. Is that
> not
> > when the engine is running at higher rpm's and the mechanical advance and
> > vacuum advance have kicked in or should the static advance be higher?
> >
> > It seems the only way I can get the idle down low enough is to have the
> > car static timed on the pointer and pulley marks. The carbs are rebuilt
> and
> > there are no air leaks.
> >
> > What should the basic timing be when I am tuning the carbs?
> >
> > Any clues and help people can provide would be appreciated.
> >
> > John Spaur
> > San Jose
> > '62 BT7
> > ______________________________**_________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<
> http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> > options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 01:09:18 2013
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	<2091648009.1026228.1370480819137.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 07:54:31 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: goldengt@cal.net
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gergo,

I don't know if you are aware of this or not but there are at least 20
different types of HD8 carbs, each with slight differences. Jaguar used a
lot of them and so did Aston Martin. On the other hand, I don't know how
much difference it would actually make if you used one type rather than the
'correct' type.

Derek


On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 2:06 AM, <goldengt@cal.net> wrote:

> If you have read some of my very old emails. Burlens made 15 years ago or
> so had their own set of problems. Perhaps they have cleaned up their act by
> now.
> I would continue with old original castings and I have. My Burlens are in
> the closet.
> Ken Freese65 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: josef-eckert@t-online.de
> To: "Forum Healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 5, 2013 11:14:24 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] HD8
>
> Gergo,
>
>  have you checked with Burlen Fuel Systems http://burlen.co.uk/ . They
> sell HD8s new reasonably priced. No need to buy these junk used ones.
> Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/goldengt@cal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 05:56:00 2013
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From: Greg <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 07:32:34 -0400
To: Team Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 headlight ring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone have a BJ8 headlight ring, with the rivet on top, for sale?

Greg

Sent from my iPad
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] tuning and timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I set mine at 32 degrees full advance. I am using premium fuel & have about
9.75:1 compression ratio. The Max. advance is set with the vacuum line
disconnected. If the engine pings when lugging it (I.E. low RPM & pulling up a
hill) retard a few degrees. Most everyone I know has their timing between
30-32 degrees at full advance.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jun 6, 2013 1:49 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] tuning and timing


John

With the poor quality of todays fuel I think that 35 degrees advance is too
much for a road car. To answer one of your questions, that would be the
total advance when the mechanical advance is fully operational. The vacuum
advance is a fuel economy measure and only operates when the throttle is
slightly open.

Derek


On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 6:37 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com> wrote:

> Are You sure that the carbs are rebuilt correctly? The position of the
> butterflys is very delicate. If they are not spot on, You cannot close them
> perfectly.
>
> Normaly with HS4s, you should be able to set the idle regardless of the
> timing.
>
> Can You set the idling too low, soo that the engine stops?
>
> Gergo
>
>
> 2013/6/6 john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>
> > Ok, I checked the archives but still have questions about timing and
> > tuning the 3000 engine with three HS4 carbs.
> >
> > 1. The basics are set the valve clearances then set the breaker points.
> > 2. Static time the car with #1 at TDC and pulley mark lined up with the
> > timing cover pointer.
> > 3. Set up the carb jets per the manual.
> >
> > From reading the archives it is not clear to me if the static timing
> > should be advanced 10-15 degrees or static on the mark as the book
> states.
> >
> > Some posts stated it should be advanced as much as 35 degrees. Is that
> not
> > when the engine is running at higher rpm's and the mechanical advance and
> > vacuum advance have kicked in or should the static advance be higher?
> >
> > It seems the only way I can get the idle down low enough is to have the
> > car static timed on the pointer and pulley marks. The carbs are rebuilt
> and
> > there are no air leaks.
> >
> > What should the basic timing be when I am tuning the carbs?
> >
> > Any clues and help people can provide would be appreciated.
> >
> > John Spaur
> > San Jose
> > '62 BT7
> > ______________________________**_________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<
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> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 07:35:55 2013
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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2013 06:13:23 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Healeys]  Fuel (was:  tuning and timing)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

re: "With the poor quality of todays fuel ..."

What quality issues are we having with today's fuel?  Many modern cars--'family' sedans, even--will do 150MPH and 0-60 
in six seconds or less on 'pump' gas.  I just put 3,773 miles on my BJ8 over 6 states on pump gas--granted, my car is 
not high-compression; nominal at best--with no fuel-related issue.  I generally buy the 'name' brands--Chevron, Shell, 
etc.--but will buy no-name gas if necessary.

AFAIK, the octane-rating tests--motor ('M') and research ('R'); the US uses the average of the two--haven't changed in 
decades, if ever, so today's 91-octane gas has the same anti-detonation quality as 91-octane gas from 1950.  Many, if 
not all, gas stations have had to replace their underground tanks to prevent leakage into the environment; the 
side-effect being there shouldn't be much 50-year-old crud and water sitting on the bottom.  It's only anecdotal, but I 
put pump gas--probably containing ethanol--into an unlined steel can for my lawnmower and have had it sit for 3 years or 
more with no visible deterioration of the can or the gas (and the mower still runs fine on it).

Not heckling here; I'd just like to know what fuel quality-related issues people are having--I haven't heard of any (the 
carping about alcohol is another issue--I'm not a fan of the fuel or the political policy, but I haven't had any trouble 
with it).  Now, if the issue is 95-octane ((R+M)/2) gas isn't available at the pump any more; well that's not a quality 
but a supply&demand or maybe a cost issue (you can get 100-octane avgas at some stations in the southwest if you're 
willing to pay $6+/gal).

Bob


On 6/5/2013 11:48 PM, Derek Job wrote:
> John
>
> With the poor quality of todays fuel I think that 35 degrees advance is too
> much for a road car. To answer one of your questions, that would be the
> total advance when the mechanical advance is fully operational. The vacuum
> advance is a fuel economy measure and only operates when the throttle is
> slightly open.
>
> Derek
>
>
>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 07:48:44 2013
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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2013 15:43:31 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130605170902.0208f498@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CA+QDXmDQDaM0BG+tWFJtHSXPco6MiL=HSTQhE0TcHUHBk8dAzw@mail.gmail.com>
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	<51B08AF3.7060307@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

Do not let you get scared by the industry. They just want to sell additives.
There are very few people who have had problems with fuel, be it E5 or 
E10. If they had, it was mainly because of deteriorating old rubber 
hoses, diaphragms that should have been replaced years ago anyway and/or 
rust/dirt in the tank that dissolved once they started using the car 
again. When a car is well maintained and in regular use, there are 
hardly ever problems if at all.
I have found the same having had petrol in a can for years in the boot 
as a reserve. When I finally needed it there were no problems at all.
The fuel we have today is different from that in the '60s, but is does 
not mean the quality is worse.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 6-6-2013 15:13, Bob Spidell schreef:
> re: "With the poor quality of todays fuel ..."
>
> What quality issues are we having with today's fuel?  Many modern 
> cars--'family' sedans, even--will do 150MPH and 0-60 in six seconds or 
> less on 'pump' gas.  I just put 3,773 miles on my BJ8 over 6 states on 
> pump gas--granted, my car is not high-compression; nominal at 
> best--with no fuel-related issue.  I generally buy the 'name' 
> brands--Chevron, Shell, etc.--but will buy no-name gas if necessary.
>
> AFAIK, the octane-rating tests--motor ('M') and research ('R'); the US 
> uses the average of the two--haven't changed in decades, if ever, so 
> today's 91-octane gas has the same anti-detonation quality as 
> 91-octane gas from 1950.  Many, if not all, gas stations have had to 
> replace their underground tanks to prevent leakage into the 
> environment; the side-effect being there shouldn't be much 50-year-old 
> crud and water sitting on the bottom.  It's only anecdotal, but I put 
> pump gas--probably containing ethanol--into an unlined steel can for 
> my lawnmower and have had it sit for 3 years or more with no visible 
> deterioration of the can or the gas (and the mower still runs fine on 
> it).
>
> Not heckling here; I'd just like to know what fuel quality-related 
> issues people are having--I haven't heard of any (the carping about 
> alcohol is another issue--I'm not a fan of the fuel or the political 
> policy, but I haven't had any trouble with it).  Now, if the issue is 
> 95-octane ((R+M)/2) gas isn't available at the pump any more; well 
> that's not a quality but a supply&demand or maybe a cost issue (you 
> can get 100-octane avgas at some stations in the southwest if you're 
> willing to pay $6+/gal).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/5/2013 11:48 PM, Derek Job wrote:
>> John
>>
>> With the poor quality of todays fuel I think that 35 degrees advance 
>> is too
>> much for a road car. To answer one of your questions, that would be the
>> total advance when the mechanical advance is fully operational. The 
>> vacuum
>> advance is a fuel economy measure and only operates when the throttle is
>> slightly open.
>>
>> Derek
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 08:16:15 2013
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 15:07:37 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was: tuning and timing)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You can call it whatever you want but it is too low octane for our cars and
lower than they were designed for so the shop manual guidelines are not
directly applicable. I run Shell V-Power 99 octane.

BTW most octane boosters do not increase the octane content by the amounts
claimed.

Derek


On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 2:13 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "With the poor quality of todays fuel ..."
>
> What quality issues are we having with today's fuel?  Many modern
> cars--'family' sedans, even--will do 150MPH and 0-60 in six seconds or less
> on 'pump' gas.  I just put 3,773 miles on my BJ8 over 6 states on pump
> gas--granted, my car is not high-compression; nominal at best--with no
> fuel-related issue.  I generally buy the 'name' brands--Chevron, Shell,
> etc.--but will buy no-name gas if necessary.
>
> AFAIK, the octane-rating tests--motor ('M') and research ('R'); the US
> uses the average of the two--haven't changed in decades, if ever, so
> today's 91-octane gas has the same anti-detonation quality as 91-octane gas
> from 1950.  Many, if not all, gas stations have had to replace their
> underground tanks to prevent leakage into the environment; the side-effect
> being there shouldn't be much 50-year-old crud and water sitting on the
> bottom.  It's only anecdotal, but I put pump gas--probably containing
> ethanol--into an unlined steel can for my lawnmower and have had it sit for
> 3 years or more with no visible deterioration of the can or the gas (and
> the mower still runs fine on it).
>
> Not heckling here; I'd just like to know what fuel quality-related issues
> people are having--I haven't heard of any (the carping about alcohol is
> another issue--I'm not a fan of the fuel or the political policy, but I
> haven't had any trouble with it).  Now, if the issue is 95-octane ((R+M)/2)
> gas isn't available at the pump any more; well that's not a quality but a
> supply&demand or maybe a cost issue (you can get 100-octane avgas at some
> stations in the southwest if you're willing to pay $6+/gal).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/5/2013 11:48 PM, Derek Job wrote:
>
>> John
>>
>> With the poor quality of todays fuel I think that 35 degrees advance is
>> too
>> much for a road car. To answer one of your questions, that would be the
>> total advance when the mechanical advance is fully operational. The vacuum
>> advance is a fuel economy measure and only operates when the throttle is
>> slightly open.
>>
>> Derek
>>
>>
>>
>>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
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	<51B08AF3.7060307@comcast.net> <51B09203.6020102@chello.nl>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 16:20:17 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

"The fuel we have today is different from that in the '60s, but is does not
mean the quality is worse."

Thats the key. It is different. You have to keep it in mind when tuning
your engine. The more hps/litre the engine has, the more problems You will
face if using the factory tunning data. Running on maybe the most common
problem, but pinking under load is also an issue. This is not down to
detonation resistence of the fuel, rather down to quicker burning and also
down to different float level (if You set the fuel level according to the
factory data, You usualy get lower than factory, thus running on lean
mixture on partial load.

Gergo
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 00:27:36 +1000
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was:  tuning and timing)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob. With all due respect...
1. What speed average did you cover your 3,773 miles in?
Full throttle?? 3 weeks??
Seriously. Modern cars. Modern fuel. Your car was never designed to run modern
ethanol based fuel.
2. Bob. Run your car on a dyno for 20 mins on 91 octane fuel at the factory
redline. Go on. On a dyno. Why not? Go on.
Well, i wouldn't either. that's not the fuel the factory specified. Is it???
If you believe your own argument. Then just do it. Run your car at factory max
rpm on that crap fuel. If you believe it's all good - just do it. 20 mins.
Why wouldn't you?
Me? I wouldn't run my Healey with 91 Octane (US octane, not UK or AU) for
longer than it took me to drive to a proper service station. And I wouldn't
drive at over 2,000 rpm
BUT - i'd happily put my BJ8 on a dyno at 6,000 rpm for 20 minutes, running
100 octane (AU) fuel. But you have to put yours on a dyno at 5,700 rpm with 91
octane (US) for the same 20 minutes.
Deal??
That should explain the difference... It's not just about octane. It's about
fuel quality.
Sincerely.
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 06/06/2013, at 11:13 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "With the poor quality of todays fuel ..."
>
> What quality issues are we having with today's fuel?  Many modern
cars--'family' sedans, even--will do 150MPH and 0-60 in six seconds or less on
'pump' gas.  I just put 3,773 miles on my BJ8 over 6 states on pump
gas--granted, my car is not high-compression; nominal at best--with no
fuel-related issue.  I generally buy the 'name' brands--Chevron, Shell,
etc.--but will buy no-name gas if necessary.
>
> AFAIK, the octane-rating tests--motor ('M') and research ('R'); the US uses
the average of the two--haven't changed in decades, if ever, so today's
91-octane gas has the same anti-detonation quality as 91-octane gas from 1950.
Many, if not all, gas stations have had to replace their underground tanks to
prevent leakage into the environment; the side-effect being there shouldn't be
much 50-year-old crud and water sitting on the bottom.  It's only anecdotal,
but I put pump gas--probably containing ethanol--into an unlined steel can for
my lawnmower and have had it sit for 3 years or more with no visible
deterioration of the can or the gas (and the mower still runs fine on it).
>
> Not heckling here; I'd just like to know what fuel quality-related issues
people are having--I haven't heard of any (the carping about alcohol is
another issue--I'm not a fan of the fuel or the political policy, but I
haven't had any trouble with it).  Now, if the issue is 95-octane ((R+M)/2)
gas isn't available at the pump any more; well that's not a quality but a
supply&demand or maybe a cost issue (you can get 100-octane avgas at some
stations in the southwest if you're willing to pay $6+/gal).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/5/2013 11:48 PM, Derek Job wrote:
>> John
>>
>> With the poor quality of todays fuel I think that 35 degrees advance is
too
>> much for a road car.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
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Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was: tuning and timing)
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re: "I run Shell V-Power 99 octane." 

'poor quality' fuel? 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----




You can call it whatever you want but it is too low octane for our cars and lower than they were designed for so the shop manual guidelines are not directly applicable. I run Shell V-Power 99 octane. 

BTW most octane boosters do not increase the octane content by the amounts claimed. 

Derek 



On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 2:13 PM, Bob Spidell < bspidell@comcast.net > wrote: 


re: "With the poor quality of todays fuel ..." 

What quality issues are we having with today's fuel? Many modern cars--'family' sedans, even--will do 150MPH and 0-60 in six seconds or less on 'pump' gas. I just put 3,773 miles on my BJ8 over 6 states on pump gas--granted, my car is not high-compression; nominal at best--with no fuel-related issue. I generally buy the 'name' brands--Chevron, Shell, etc.--but will buy no-name gas if necessary. 

AFAIK, the octane-rating tests--motor ('M') and research ('R'); the US uses the average of the two--haven't changed in decades, if ever, so today's 91-octane gas has the same anti-detonation quality as 91-octane gas from 1950. Many, if not all, gas stations have had to replace their underground tanks to prevent leakage into the environment; the side-effect being there shouldn't be much 50-year-old crud and water sitting on the bottom. It's only anecdotal, but I put pump gas--probably containing ethanol--into an unlined steel can for my lawnmower and have had it sit for 3 years or more with no visible deterioration of the can or the gas (and the mower still runs fine on it). 

Not heckling here; I'd just like to know what fuel quality-related issues people are having--I haven't heard of any (the carping about alcohol is another issue--I'm not a fan of the fuel or the political policy, but I haven't had any trouble with it). Now, if the issue is 95-octane ((R+M)/2) gas isn't available at the pump any more; well that's not a quality but a supply&demand or maybe a cost issue (you can get 100-octane avgas at some stations in the southwest if you're willing to pay $6+/gal). 

Bob 


On 6/5/2013 11:48 PM, Derek Job wrote: 

<blockquote>
John 

With the poor quality of todays fuel I think that 35 degrees advance is too 
much for a road car. To answer one of your questions, that would be the 
total advance when the mechanical advance is fully operational. The vacuum 
advance is a fuel economy measure and only operates when the throttle is 
slightly open. 

Derek 






-- 
****************************** ****************************** ******* 
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net 

****************************** ****************************** ******* 


</blockquote>
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 09:12:19 2013
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References: <686771871.787020.1370529783276.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 00:58:15 +1000
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was: tuning and timing)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Short answer..
It has no tetra ethyl lead.
TEL does more than lubricate.
It burns differently than the additives that replace it.
Tell me why modern fuel goes stale and loses up to 5 octane points after 2 or
3 weeks in a drum/ tank????????
Never used to happen with 100 octane 5 star, did it??????
Why is that??
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 07/06/2013, at 12:43 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "I run Shell V-Power 99 octane."
>
> 'poor quality' fuel?
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
>
> You can call it whatever you want but it is too low octane for our cars and
lower than they were designed for so the shop manual guidelines are not
directly applicable. I run Shell V-Power 99 octane.
>
> BTW most octane boosters do not increase the octane content by the amounts
claimed.
>
> Derek
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 2:13 PM, Bob Spidell < bspidell@comcast.net > wrote:
>
>
> re: "With the poor quality of todays fuel ..."
>
> What quality issues are we having with today's fuel? Many modern
cars--'family' sedans, even--will do 150MPH and 0-60 in six seconds or less on
'pump' gas. I just put 3,773 miles on my BJ8 over 6 states on pump
gas--granted, my car is not high-compression; nominal at best--with no
fuel-related issue. I generally buy the 'name' brands--Chevron, Shell,
etc.--but will buy no-name gas if necessary.
>
> AFAIK, the octane-rating tests--motor ('M') and research ('R'); the US uses
the average of the two--haven't changed in decades, if ever, so today's
91-octane gas has the same anti-detonation quality as 91-octane gas from 1950.
Many, if not all, gas stations have had to replace their underground tanks to
prevent leakage into the environment; the side-effect being there shouldn't be
much 50-year-old crud and water sitting on the bottom. It's only anecdotal,
but I put pump gas--probably containing ethanol--into an unlined steel can for
my lawnmower and have had it sit for 3 years or more with no visible
deterioration of the can or the gas (and the mower still runs fine on it).
>
> Not heckling here; I'd just like to know what fuel quality-related issues
people are having--I haven't heard of any (the carping about alcohol is
another issue--I'm not a fan of the fuel or the political policy, but I
haven't had any trouble with it). Now, if the issue is 95-octane ((R+M)/2) gas
isn't available at the pump any more; well that's not a quality but a
supply&demand or maybe a cost issue (you can get 100-octane avgas at some
stations in the southwest if you're willing to pay $6+/gal).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/5/2013 11:48 PM, Derek Job wrote:
>
> <blockquote>
> John
>
> With the poor quality of todays fuel I think that 35 degrees advance is too
> much for a road car. To answer one of your questions, that would be the
> total advance when the mechanical advance is fully operational.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 09:13:01 2013
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel
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Any data? So far, no one has disputed my 'octane is octane' claim; would be interested to know if the Reid vapor pressure spec has changed over the years? If anything, I would expect the RVP to be lower due to emissions standards. 

The only 'factory' tuning data--besides timing--I've seen is to balance the flow by ear using a hose of some sort--very high tech--and lift the carb pistons 1/32" (how the heck do you measure that, BTW?). Oh, and if it pings a little retard using the knob on the distributor. 

I always thought that detonation was in part due to the burn rate of the fuel. Heard once--note: anecdotal info only--that lower-octane fuel actually has a higher nominal energy content since it burns quicker (detonates). Also, there's more energy in an ounce of gasoline than an ounce of dynamite--the gas just burns slower. 

Folks, I'm really not trying to start a war or insult anybody--I only asked if anyone has any actual data on fuel quality issues and cited my own experience. Anybody else put 5K+ miles a year on a Healey? 

BTW, we can get really high octane by loading up our gas with toxic organic lead compounds. I think we all agree the IQ of the younger generations is way too high already. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


"The fuel we have today is different from that in the '60s, but is does not 
mean the quality is worse." 

Thats the key. It is different. You have to keep it in mind when tuning 
your engine. The more hps/litre the engine has, the more problems You will 
face if using the factory tunning data. Running on maybe the most common 
problem, but pinking under load is also an issue. This is not down to 
detonation resistence of the fuel, rather down to quicker burning and also 
down to different float level (if You set the fuel level according to the 
factory data, You usualy get lower than factory, thus running on lean 
mixture on partial load. 

Gergo 
_______________________________________________ 
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was:  tuning and timing)
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Ten days and full throttle as often as possible. Ran for--literally--hours on end at speeds between 70 and 80MPH (the limit is 75 in parts of Colorado and Utah, and in Nevada, well, it's Nevada). Got near 100 a couple times just for shits and grins. I was amazed--the limit was 65 on crappy, windy roads in UT and CO. I toed the line just to keep from shaking my car to pieces. My car was fully loaded with 2 'mature' adult men, luggage and a boot full of spare parts, tools, spare tire, first aid kit, etc. etc. 

I have roughly 100K miles since rebuild on this engine. I have a 3.54 rearend so tach stays between 2K and 3K most of the time. With the miles and the taller rearend I really have to flog it to merge in front of the 18-wheelers doing 75+MPH. 

No offense, Chris--your knowledge and opinions carry weight in my book--but I don't give a flying fuck what my car would do on a dyno. The main thing I worry about is having a breakdown 100 miles from nowhere in the Nevada desert at 100+deg F (and 35degF at night). Main bugaboo remains fuel pumps, BTW--I now carry 2 spares and, yep, had to change one out. 

Anyone want to see photos of my trip? I've got a .zip file on Box.com--it's about a 2G download (and there's a few pictures of me, my copilot and GF in there, too)--send email address if interested. 

Bob 

ps. Please don't tell my BJ8 it wasn't designed to run on modern fuels. 



-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Bob. With all due respect... 
1. What speed average did you cover your 3,773 miles in? 
Full throttle?? 3 weeks?? 
Seriously. Modern cars. Modern fuel. Your car was never designed to run modern ethanol based fuel. 
2. Bob. Run your car on a dyno for 20 mins on 91 octane fuel at the factory redline. Go on. On a dyno. Why not? Go on. 
Well, i wouldn't either. that's not the fuel the factory specified. Is it??? 
If you believe your own argument. Then just do it. Run your car at factory max rpm on that crap fuel. If you believe it's all good - just do it. 20 mins. 
Why wouldn't you? 
Me? I wouldn't run my Healey with 91 Octane (US octane, not UK or AU) for longer than it took me to drive to a proper service station. And I wouldn't drive at over 2,000 rpm 
BUT - i'd happily put my BJ8 on a dyno at 6,000 rpm for 20 minutes, running 100 octane (AU) fuel. But you have to put yours on a dyno at 5,700 rpm with 91 octane (US) for the same 20 minutes. 
Deal?? 
That should explain the difference... It's not just about octane. It's about fuel quality. 
Sincerely. 
Chris 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 09:43:21 2013
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 15:30:30 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was: tuning and timing)
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Chris, 

How are you performing your octane-rating tests? 

Yes, TEL does more than lubricate. If fact, TEL was discovered/developed at the Sloan-Kettering institute (think it was part of GM at the time) in the 1930s in an effort to improve anti-detonation properties of fuel so more powerful aircraft piston engines could be developed (some people saw WWII coming long before it started). The lubrication qualities were a fortunate side effect. 

Anyway, it's a moot point because unleaded gasoline has caused all older engines to blow all their exhaust valves through the head already. 

Don't know that I've ever seen '100 octane 5-star,' but I'm only 60. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Short answer.. 
It has no tetra ethyl lead. 
TEL does more than lubricate. 
It burns differently than the additives that replace it. 
Tell me why modern fuel goes stale and loses up to 5 octane points after 2 or 3 weeks in a drum/ tank???????? 
Never used to happen with 100 octane 5 star, did it?????? 
Why is that?? 
Chris 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 09:55:04 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <austin.healey@gmail.com>, "'Bob Spidell'"
	<bspidell@comcast.net>
References: <686771871.787020.1370529783276.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<24E03B2B-BB15-4917-B051-2572FDB5E779@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 09:39:10 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac5ix9KAVua968IrRIO5Oa3fHCbzhAAA7OJw
Cc: 'Forum' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was: tuning and timing)
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....OK OK I know this sounds like another snake oil.... but I'm really
impressed with a product call Star-tron (Google/Bing) it. Different from
typical petro based additives. It's an enzyme formulation. NFI, I just like
it enough to recommend to my customers..
Dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 8:58 AM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was: tuning and timing)

Short answer..
It has no tetra ethyl lead.
TEL does more than lubricate.
It burns differently than the additives that replace it.
Tell me why modern fuel goes stale and loses up to 5 octane points after 2
or
3 weeks in a drum/ tank????????
Never used to happen with 100 octane 5 star, did it??????
Why is that??
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 07/06/2013, at 12:43 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "I run Shell V-Power 99 octane."
>
> 'poor quality' fuel?
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
>
> You can call it whatever you want but it is too low octane for our cars
and
lower than they were designed for so the shop manual guidelines are not
directly applicable. I run Shell V-Power 99 octane.
>
> BTW most octane boosters do not increase the octane content by the amounts
claimed.
>
> Derek
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 2:13 PM, Bob Spidell < bspidell@comcast.net >
wrote:
>
>
> re: "With the poor quality of todays fuel ..."
>
> What quality issues are we having with today's fuel? Many modern
cars--'family' sedans, even--will do 150MPH and 0-60 in six seconds or less
on
'pump' gas. I just put 3,773 miles on my BJ8 over 6 states on pump
gas--granted, my car is not high-compression; nominal at best--with no
fuel-related issue. I generally buy the 'name' brands--Chevron, Shell,
etc.--but will buy no-name gas if necessary.
>
> AFAIK, the octane-rating tests--motor ('M') and research ('R'); the US
uses
the average of the two--haven't changed in decades, if ever, so today's
91-octane gas has the same anti-detonation quality as 91-octane gas from
1950.
Many, if not all, gas stations have had to replace their underground tanks
to
prevent leakage into the environment; the side-effect being there shouldn't
be
much 50-year-old crud and water sitting on the bottom. It's only anecdotal,
but I put pump gas--probably containing ethanol--into an unlined steel can
for
my lawnmower and have had it sit for 3 years or more with no visible
deterioration of the can or the gas (and the mower still runs fine on it).
>
> Not heckling here; I'd just like to know what fuel quality-related issues
people are having--I haven't heard of any (the carping about alcohol is
another issue--I'm not a fan of the fuel or the political policy, but I
haven't had any trouble with it). Now, if the issue is 95-octane ((R+M)/2)
gas
isn't available at the pump any more; well that's not a quality but a
supply&demand or maybe a cost issue (you can get 100-octane avgas at some
stations in the southwest if you're willing to pay $6+/gal).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/5/2013 11:48 PM, Derek Job wrote:
>
> <blockquote>
> John
>
> With the poor quality of todays fuel I think that 35 degrees advance is
too
> much for a road car. To answer one of your questions, that would be the
> total advance when the mechanical advance is fully operational.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 09:56:59 2013
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I put 25,000 miles on in the last 5 years. We often take long trips & although
we avoid interstate highways when possible, we often drive for 8-10 hours/day
at speeds between 60-80 MPH. We use the highest octane pump fuel available &
have had no problems we can blame on the fuel.
I have a vintage race car that has a full race engine. 20 minutes at red line
on a dyno seems a little harsh on an engine to me.
Gary
_______________________________________________
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	<1385524440.789130.1370532630215.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 16:55:13 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was: tuning and timing)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob

The original point was that with modern fuel (ie low octane, we can debate
whether it is rubbish or not) then the settings per the shop manual are not
necessary valid because they assumed much higher octane fuel. That is still
the case.

Derek


On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 4:30 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Chris,
>
> How are you performing your octane-rating tests?
>
> Yes, TEL does more than lubricate.  If fact, TEL was discovered/developed
> at the Sloan-Kettering institute (think it was part of GM at the time) in
> the 1930s in an effort to improve anti-detonation properties of fuel so
> more powerful aircraft piston engines could be developed (some people saw
> WWII coming long before it started).  The lubrication qualities were a
> fortunate side effect.
>
> Anyway, it's a moot point because unleaded gasoline has caused all older
> engines to blow all their exhaust valves through the head already.
>
> Don't know that I've ever seen '100 octane 5-star,' but I'm only 60.
>
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> Short answer..
> It has no tetra ethyl lead.
> TEL does more than lubricate.
> It burns differently than the additives that replace it.
> Tell me why modern fuel goes stale and loses up to 5 octane points after 2
> or 3 weeks in a drum/ tank????????
> Never used to happen with 100 octane 5 star, did it??????
> Why is that??
> Chris
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>,  Chris Dimmock
	<austin.healey@gmail.com>
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 12:04:39 -0400
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was:  tuning and timing)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Despite the above it is really hard to run the engine in any reasonably
powerful road car for more than a few seconds at full throttle.
A properly tuned BJ8 will reach 100 MPH in  20 seconds or less on a flat road
at full throttle!!
Race cars get a better chance but even they seldom run at full throttle for
very long.
If you really want to experience the effects  of poor or incorrect fuel or
prolonged detonation on an engine put it in a boat.
Don't ask me how I known:-(

Michael S


-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
Sent: b2013-b06-b06 11:23 AM
To: "Chris Dimmock" <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was:  tuning and timing)

Ten days and full throttle as often as possible. Ran for--literally--hours on
end at speeds between 70 and 80MPH (the limit is 75 in parts of Colorado and
Utah, and in Nevada, well, it's Nevada). Got near 100 a couple times just for
shits and grins. I was amazed--the limit was 65 on crappy, windy roads in UT
and CO. I toed the line just to keep from shaking my car to pieces. My car was
fully loaded with 2 'mature' adult men, luggage and a boot full of spare
parts, tools, spare tire, first aid kit, etc. etc.

I have roughly 100K miles since rebuild on this engine. I have a 3.54 rearend
so tach stays between 2K and 3K most of the time. With the miles and the
taller rearend I really have to flog it to merge in front of the 18-wheelers
doing 75+MPH.

No offense, Chris--your knowledge and opinions carry weight in my book--but I
don't give a flying fuck what my car would do on a dyno. The main thing I
worry about is having a breakdown 100 miles from nowhere in the Nevada desert
at 100+deg F (and 35degF at night). Main bugaboo remains fuel pumps, BTW--I
now carry 2 spares and, yep, had to change one out.

Anyone want to see photos of my trip? I've got a .zip file on Box.com--it's
about a 2G download (and there's a few pictures of me, my copilot and GF in
there, too)--send email address if interested.

Bob

ps. Please don't tell my BJ8 it wasn't designed to run on modern fuels.



--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

----- Original Message -----


Bob. With all due respect...
1. What speed average did you cover your 3,773 miles in?
Full throttle?? 3 weeks??
Seriously. Modern cars. Modern fuel. Your car was never designed to run modern
ethanol based fuel.
2. Bob. Run your car on a dyno for 20 mins on 91 octane fuel at the factory
redline. Go on. On a dyno. Why not? Go on.
Well, i wouldn't either. that's not the fuel the factory specified. Is it???
If you believe your own argument. Then just do it. Run your car at factory max
rpm on that crap fuel. If you believe it's all good - just do it. 20 mins.
Why wouldn't you?
Me? I wouldn't run my Healey with 91 Octane (US octane, not UK or AU) for
longer than it took me to drive to a proper service station. And I wouldn't
drive at over 2,000 rpm
BUT - i'd happily put my BJ8 on a dyno at 6,000 rpm for 20 minutes, running
100 octane (AU) fuel. But you have to put yours on a dyno at 5,700 rpm with 91
octane (US) for the same 20 minutes.
Deal??
That should explain the difference... It's not just about octane. It's about
fuel quality.
Sincerely.
Chris
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 10:43:36 2013
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was:  tuning and timing)
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

re: "Despite the above it is really hard to run the engine in any reasonably powerful road car for more than a few seconds at full throttle." 

Not necessarily. I run WOT for up to 10-15 minutes at a time pulling up some very long, steep grades (up to 16% according to the signs). There are quite a few of these in the Sierras and Rockies. That's my 'rolling road' dyno. 

WOT with a full load up a steep grade--sometimes with O/D, sometimes I have to drop into straight 4th or even 3rd--if the engine was going to knock it would do it then. 

On really steep grades I have to run my Mustang GT--315HP--at or near WOT for several minutes (esp. if I don't downshift). 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----




Despite the above it is really hard to run the engine in any reasonably powerful road car for more than a few seconds at full throttle. 
A properly tuned BJ8 will reach 100 MPH in 20 seconds or less on a flat road at full throttle!! 
Race cars get a better chance but even they seldom run at full throttle for very long. 
If you really want to experience the effects of poor or incorrect fuel or prolonged detonation on an engine put it in a boat. 
Don't ask me how I known:-( 

Michael S 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 10:49:46 2013
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 02:33:34 +1000
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was: tuning and timing)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

How does the world measure octane?
Well. There is
MON
And there is
RON
And there is PON
Your 91 octane in the US is PON? MON?
Healeys are British cars. Imperial measurements. We use RON.
Does the manual specify pints and gallons? Is a pint a pint??
should you just assume when the manual says pints/gallons they are US pints??
Or read it closely and see they (being British) refer to Imperial pints?
If I bought a 1960's Mustang, in Australia, I'd probably just assume that
pints/gallons were US gallons. Not "my" pints/gallons. Mine, being Australian,
were Imperial.
I'm 53. 5 star 100 octane?? Imperial 100 octane?? That would be RON - just
like the 100 Octane fuel they sold in England? The 5 star 100 octane referred
to in BMC manuals???? RON.
That's old school leaded 'super'
They only stopped selling that in Australia about 20 years ago.
Sometimes, you need to read the measurement. RON. MON Imperial pints. US
pints.
Anyway. The issue is about the advance of the ignition for the octane.
Thank goodness there aren't US degrees, or this thread would never end......
;-)

Sent from my iPhone

On 07/06/2013, at 1:30 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Chris,
>
> How are you performing your octane-rating tests?
>
> Yes, TEL does more than lubricate.  If fact, TEL was discovered/developed at
the Sloan-Kettering institute (think it was part of GM at the time) in the
1930s in an effort to improve anti-detonation properties of fuel so more
powerful aircraft piston engines could be developed (some people saw WWII
coming long before it started).  The lubrication qualities were a fortunate
side effect.
>
> Anyway, it's a moot point because unleaded gasoline has caused all older
engines to blow all their exhaust valves through the head already.
>
> Don't know that I've ever seen '100 octane 5-star,' but I'm only 60.
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
> Short answer..
> It has no tetra ethyl lead.
> TEL does more than lubricate.
> It burns differently than the additives that replace it.
> Tell me why modern fuel goes stale and loses up to 5 octane points after 2
or 3 weeks in a drum/ tank????????
> Never used to happen with 100 octane 5 star, did it??????
> Why is that??
> Chris
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 11:04:30 2013
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 02:40:44 +1000
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Fuel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

> Fair call Gary.
> I was being a bit "gung ho" with 20 minutes.
> My dear old Mum told me millions of times to not exaggerate.... ;-)
> Max revs with inadequate (low) octane fuel / BMC manual spec ignition
advance wouldn't take more than a couple of minutes, if that long, to prove my
point....
> 20 minutes - yes - exaggeration.
> Yes. Like you, I buy the best fuel available.
> Sincerely.
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 07/06/2013, at 1:49 AM, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I put 25,000 miles on in the last 5 years. We often take long trips &
although
>> we avoid interstate highways when possible, we often drive for 8-10
hours/day
>> at speeds between 60-80 MPH. We use the highest octane pump fuel available
&
>> have had no problems we can blame on the fuel.
>> I have a vintage race car that has a full race engine. 20 minutes at red
line
>> on a dyno seems a little harsh on an engine to me.
>> Gary
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 11:05:57 2013
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 16:43:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
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Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was: tuning and timing)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

re: "Your 91 octane in the US is PON? MON?" 

Our octane rating is always (RON+MON)/2; i.e. the average of RON and MON. Our 91-octane has the same anti-detonation characteristics as Aussie 95-octane (guess Aussies like to use a bigger number--150mm sounds a lot longer than 6inches ;). 

Never heard of PON, and a quick Google search turns up bupkis. 

bs (more appropriate than Bob at this point) 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----



How does the world measure octane? 
Well. There is 
MON 
And there is 
RON 
And there is PON 
Your 91 octane in the US is PON? MON? 
Healeys are British cars. Imperial measurements. We use RON. 
Does the manual specify pints and gallons? Is a pint a pint?? 
should you just assume when the manual says pints/gallons they are US pints?? Or read it closely and see they (being British) refer to Imperial pints? 
If I bought a 1960's Mustang, in Australia, I'd probably just assume that pints/gallons were US gallons. Not "my" pints/gallons. Mine, being Australian, were Imperial. 
I'm 53. 5 star 100 octane?? Imperial 100 octane?? That would be RON - just like the 100 Octane fuel they sold in England? The 5 star 100 octane referred to in BMC manuals???? RON. 
That's old school leaded 'super' 
They only stopped selling that in Australia about 20 years ago. 
Sometimes, you need to read the measurement. RON. MON Imperial pints. US pints. 
Anyway. The issue is about the advance of the ignition for the octane. 
Thank goodness there aren't US degrees, or this thread would never end...... 
;-) 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 11:17:50 2013
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 02:57:35 +1000
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was: tuning and timing)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,
Funny. PON "Pump Octane Number'" is cited in Wikipedia. The same link you
emailed me before.
Here:
"In most countries, including Australia and all of those in Europe, the
"headline" octane rating shown on the pump is the RON, but in Canada, the
United States, Brazil, and some other countries, the headline number is the
average of the RON and the MON, called the Anti-Knock Index(AKI, and often
written on pumps as(R+M)/2). It may also sometimes be called the Pump Octane
Number (PON)."

The PON you are looking for is your US measure closest to 100 RON.
That's higher than 91 POn

Sent from my iPhone

On 07/06/2013, at 2:43 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> re: "Your 91 octane in the US is PON? MON?"
>
> Our octane rating is always (RON+MON)/2; i.e. the average of RON and MON.
Our 91-octane has the same anti-detonation characteristics as Aussie 95-octane
(guess Aussies like to use a bigger number--150mm sounds a lot longer than
6inches ;).
>
> Never heard of PON, and a quick Google search turns up bupkis.
>
> bs (more appropriate than Bob at this point)
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
>
>
> How does the world measure octane?
> Well. There is
> MON
> And there is
> RON
> And there is PON
> Your 91 octane in the US is PON? MON?
> Healeys are British cars. Imperial measurements. We use RON.
> Does the manual specify pints and gallons? Is a pint a pint??
> should you just assume when the manual says pints/gallons they are US
pints??  Or read it closely and see they (being British) refer to Imperial
pints?
> If I bought a 1960's Mustang, in Australia, I'd probably just assume that
pints/gallons were US gallons. Not "my" pints/gallons. Mine, being Australian,
were Imperial.
> I'm 53. 5 star 100 octane?? Imperial 100 octane?? That would be RON - just
like the 100 Octane fuel they sold in England? The 5 star 100 octane referred
to in BMC manuals???? RON.
> That's old school leaded 'super'
> They only stopped selling that in Australia about 20 years ago.
> Sometimes, you need to read the measurement. RON. MON Imperial pints. US
pints.
> Anyway. The issue is about the advance of the ignition for the octane.
> Thank goodness there aren't US degrees, or this thread would never
end......
> ;-)
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 12:56:33 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was: tuning and timing)
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Bob Spidell wrote:
>>>
Anyway, it's a moot point because unleaded gasoline has caused all older
engines to blow all their exhaust valves through the head already.

<<< 

 

IHMO this is a bit strong. My car certainly is running fine (a little tired)
on an old unimproved head. BTW I run regular gas, too. Prolly would tank up
with premium if I were going north on 395 out of Bishop in 90 degree
weather, though.

 

It's my understanding from experienced mechanics that the fears of damage
from unleaded gas were not borne out and that in fact the modern gas keeps
the heads, valves etc. cleaner.

 

Just sayin'.

 

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 13:11:27 2013
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From: RCT2BNC@aol.com
Full-name: RCT2BNC
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 14:59:07 -0400 (EDT)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Healeys] enclosed trailer car hauling help between Tucson,
 AZ and Los  Angeles
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Hi group,
 
I am in a bind, as my hauler of choice has moved  to Florida!
 
If anyone knows a reliable, insured  inclosed hauler that might take on the 
following:
 
I am sending 2 Bugeye Sprites to Los Angeles from  Tucson, AZ. At the drop 
site, I need them to pick up an Elva Courier plus 4  extra wheels/tires, 
clean gas tank and 20 small boxes of bits-n-bobs and return  that load to 
Tucson, AZ. It can go either way...CA---AZ---CA or  AZ---CA---AZ.
 
You can reply off list, so as not to make everyone  crazy.   
_rct2bnc@aol.com_ (mailto:rct2bnc@aol.com) 
 
 
Thanks,
Ben Cohen
 
soon to be 2 Bugeyes less and add an Elva to my  group
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 13:55:42 2013
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Fuel (was: tuning and timing)
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These should keep everyone busy for a couple of hours.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

http://bonzisports.com/images/diagrams/Octane_Measurement_Methods.pdf

And if you really want to be confused, read the following (meat of it is
about 10 pages or so into it.)

http://uotechnology.edu.iq/dep-chem-eng/thesis/eman%20ali.pdf


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 12:44 PM
To: Chris Dimmock
Cc: Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel (was: tuning and timing)

re: "Your 91 octane in the US is PON? MON?" 

Our octane rating is always (RON+MON)/2; i.e. the average of RON and MON.
Our 91-octane has the same anti-detonation characteristics as Aussie
95-octane (guess Aussies like to use a bigger number--150mm sounds a lot
longer than 6inches ;). 

Never heard of PON, and a quick Google search turns up bupkis. 

bs (more appropriate than Bob at this point) 


--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2013 16:19:14 -0400
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Frame gussets
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It seems to me that I recall a fairly comprehensive article done on
strengthening the Big Healey frame with various gussets in multiple locations.
I have a friend who is at the stage in his restoration where he would like to
add these. I have a number of photos of shock tower and motor mount gussets
and I could probably did up some photos of the area around the scuttle/gearbox
tunnel as well, but if someone could point me to one source for all suggested
enhancements it would sure be helpful.

Thanks to all.

Lin

Lin Rose
1959 AN5 Bugeye - pure driving enjoyment, go-kart with a body.
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" - owned since 1971, my first car and still have
it!
1964 Jag MK2 - current project
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 22:31:57 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel
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"Any data?"

If that was addressed to me, I have plenty of data. I always tune my
engines with wide band oxigen sensors, soo I can "see" the mixture, and
also can see what any alteration does. Thats why I say that with modern
gas, one should go for higher float level, and also richer idle mixture to
have a constant safe AFR. On my Healey, I had to limit the vacuum advance
also a bit as it was on the edge, and tended to missfire under engine
braking.
By tha way, 20 minutes of full load should not do much harm to a well built
engine. The same cannot be said for the owner if he is nearby...

Gergo


2013/6/6 Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>

> Any data?  So far, no one has disputed my 'octane is octane' claim; would
> be interested to know if the Reid vapor pressure spec has changed over the
> years?  If anything, I would expect the RVP to be lower due to emissions
> standards.
>
> The only 'factory' tuning data--besides timing--I've seen is to balance
> the flow by ear using a hose of some sort--very high tech--and lift the
> carb pistons 1/32" (how the heck do you measure that, BTW?).  Oh, and if it
> pings a little retard using the knob on the distributor.
>
> I always thought that detonation was in part due to the burn rate of the
> fuel.  Heard once--note: anecdotal info only--that lower-octane fuel
> actually has a higher nominal energy content since it burns quicker
> (detonates).  Also, there's more energy in an ounce of gasoline than an
> ounce of dynamite--the gas just burns slower.
>
> Folks, I'm really not trying to start a war or insult anybody--I only
> asked if anyone has any actual data on fuel quality issues and cited my own
> experience.  Anybody else put 5K+ miles a year on a Healey?
>
> BTW, we can get really high octane by loading up our gas with toxic
> organic lead compounds.  I think we all agree the IQ of the younger
> generations is way too high already.
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> "The fuel we have today is different from that in the '60s, but is does not
> mean the quality is worse."
>
> Thats the key. It is different. You have to keep it in mind when tuning
> your engine. The more hps/litre the engine has, the more problems You will
> face if using the factory tunning data. Running on maybe the most common
> problem, but pinking under load is also an issue. This is not down to
> detonation resistence of the fuel, rather down to quicker burning and also
> down to different float level (if You set the fuel level according to the
> factory data, You usualy get lower than factory, thus running on lean
> mixture on partial load.
>
> Gergo
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 21:21:43 2013
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10 percent ethonal makes it crap in my book.  my car never dieseled before ethanol was added and i sure got better mileage.  i agree with keeping the money at home, but taking foodstuff and making fuel out of it is stupid when there is so many other options.
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From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] tuning and timing - Thanks
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Thanks to everyone that replied to my original post. I adjusted the 
throttle plates to seal better, set the timing to about 6 degrees 
BTDC and was able to get the idle down to around 750 to tune the 
carbs. Things are working better now.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
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	with SMTP; 06 Jun 2013 22:31:30 -0700 PDT
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2013 22:31:15 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] HS4 carb jet head and spitting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have questions concerning a BT7 tricarb.

While tuning the car, it was noticed the two rear jet heads were at 
about the same level but the front jet head was considerably higher 
(all were below the bottom of the Venturi). It is my understanding 
the height of the seat is related to float height setting and 
lean/rich jet adjustment.

Should I recheck the float levels to see if something is amiss and 
adjust so the jet bearing seats are more uniform before I tune the carbs?

The carbs sometimes spit petrol, while cold (common issue I believe) 
and upon acceleration when the engine is hot. Is this an issue 
related to valve timing and/or rocker clearance? I think spitting 
back fuel can be caused by a too lean condition.

Could the valves be staying open too long? I have a Denis Welch road 
cam which is similar to a BJ8. Per DW, the rocker clearance is set to 
.015 cold.

Needing clues to fine tune the healey.

TIA
John Spaur
San Jose
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 00:39:25 2013
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130606201049.0207fea0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 08:15:35 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 carb jet head and spitting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

They should be more or les the same height. Have You checked the needles?
Are they the same for sure? Are they not worn? Float level has instant
effect on the jet heigth. Compare the floats.The slightest air leak at a
carb can cause different jet settings. Although completely lever setting is
also not realistic with theese engines.

Backfiring is an issue this case caused by overly lean mixture. The choke
is there to adjust the mixture while cold. When hot it should not happen at
any circumstance.

Gergo


2013/6/7 john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>

> I have questions concerning a BT7 tricarb.
>
> While tuning the car, it was noticed the two rear jet heads were at about
> the same level but the front jet head was considerably higher (all were
> below the bottom of the Venturi). It is my understanding the height of the
> seat is related to float height setting and lean/rich jet adjustment.
>
> Should I recheck the float levels to see if something is amiss and adjust
> so the jet bearing seats are more uniform before I tune the carbs?
>
> The carbs sometimes spit petrol, while cold (common issue I believe) and
> upon acceleration when the engine is hot. Is this an issue related to valve
> timing and/or rocker clearance? I think spitting back fuel can be caused by
> a too lean condition.
>
> Could the valves be staying open too long? I have a Denis Welch road cam
> which is similar to a BJ8. Per DW, the rocker clearance is set to .015 cold.
>
> Needing clues to fine tune the healey.
>
> TIA
> John Spaur
> San Jose
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 03:47:32 2013
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Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2013 11:13:32 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130606201049.0207fea0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CA+QDXmCAccEqN2UqQ3F378Xu4CRYaWg5Qe2JX0ggUfc23Hk-WQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 carb jet head and spitting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Before setting the mixture, set your float level, valve clearances, ign. 
timing, spark plugs (renew?) and balance the carbs first. Failing to do 
so makes setting the mixture a waste of time.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL




Op 7-6-2013 8:15, Austin Healey schreef:
> They should be more or les the same height. Have You checked the needles?
> Are they the same for sure? Are they not worn? Float level has instant
> effect on the jet heigth. Compare the floats.The slightest air leak at a
> carb can cause different jet settings. Although completely lever setting is
> also not realistic with theese engines.
>
> Backfiring is an issue this case caused by overly lean mixture. The choke
> is there to adjust the mixture while cold. When hot it should not happen at
> any circumstance.
>
> Gergo
>
>
> 2013/6/7 john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>
>> I have questions concerning a BT7 tricarb.
>>
>> While tuning the car, it was noticed the two rear jet heads were at about
>> the same level but the front jet head was considerably higher (all were
>> below the bottom of the Venturi). It is my understanding the height of the
>> seat is related to float height setting and lean/rich jet adjustment.
>>
>> Should I recheck the float levels to see if something is amiss and adjust
>> so the jet bearing seats are more uniform before I tune the carbs?
>>
>> The carbs sometimes spit petrol, while cold (common issue I believe) and
>> upon acceleration when the engine is hot. Is this an issue related to valve
>> timing and/or rocker clearance? I think spitting back fuel can be caused by
>> a too lean condition.
>>
>> Could the valves be staying open too long? I have a Denis Welch road cam
>> which is similar to a BJ8. Per DW, the rocker clearance is set to .015 cold.
>>
>> Needing clues to fine tune the healey.
>>
>> TIA
>> John Spaur
>> San Jose
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/healeys/pajtamuvek@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3343 / Virusdatabase: 3184/6389 - datum van uitgifte: 06/06/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 07:43:01 2013
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From: "Charlie Schott" <schottc@knology.net>
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Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 06:30:11 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 Air Cleaners
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Could someone please tell me if the original air cleaners on a 1960 BT7 were 
chromed. Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie





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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 11:04:20 2013
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Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 11:36:43 -0400
From: R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Has anyone had experience with the Goodrich stainless steel brake line sets
sold by Moss motors?  Worthy?
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 12:30:48 2013
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Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2013 19:12:15 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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References: <CAHx2=qC-9fvsAiRWAiB037-yxCby9op9crfiQKvPjt8KGrZ7AA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have used Goodridge stainless steel braiding PTFE brake lines for 
years on various cars. Durable, looks good and supposedly a slightly 
firmer respons on the brakes as they do not expand. I do not notice much 
difference if at all though. Probably much cheaper than Moss on Ebay.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 7-6-2013 17:36, R Phillips schreef:
> Has anyone had experience with the Goodrich stainless steel brake line sets
> sold by Moss motors?  Worthy?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3343 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6392 - datum van uitgifte: 06/07/13
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 12:40:24 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'R Phillips'" <healeydriver1@gmail.com>, "'healeylist'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAHx2=qC-9fvsAiRWAiB037-yxCby9op9crfiQKvPjt8KGrZ7AA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 18:24:37 +0100
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got Goodrich all round. Didn't buy them from Moss though. Suppose they
are the same.
They are excellent.
Simon


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of R Phillips
Sent: 07 June 2013 16:37
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines

Has anyone had experience with the Goodrich stainless steel brake line sets
sold by Moss motors?  Worthy?
$12.75
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References: <CAHx2=qC-9fvsAiRWAiB037-yxCby9op9crfiQKvPjt8KGrZ7AA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 19:53:06 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes they are good quality. Although on the fron I found them a bit short on
my Healey (drum).

Gergo


2013/6/7 R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>

> Has anyone had experience with the Goodrich stainless steel brake line sets
> sold by Moss motors?  Worthy?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 14:35:22 2013
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From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2013 15:31:13 -0400
References: <CAHx2=qC-9fvsAiRWAiB037-yxCby9op9crfiQKvPjt8KGrZ7AA@mail.gmail.com>
	<001201ce63a3$e476e7e0$ad64b7a0$%lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I prefer to buy from businesses active on this forum. --- Al Malin, Tricarb


On Jun 7, 2013, at 1:24 PM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:

> I've got Goodrich all round. Didn't buy them from Moss though. Suppose they
> are the same.
> They are excellent.
> Simon
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of R Phillips
> Sent: 07 June 2013 16:37
> To: healeylist
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines
>
> Has anyone had experience with the Goodrich stainless steel brake line sets
> sold by Moss motors?  Worthy?
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 16:07:53 2013
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From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 23:07:17 +0200
To: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
	milter-greylist-4.0 (smtpout2.bornet.net [148.160.16.68]); Fri, 07 Jun
	2013 23:07:19 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] The Concours at the 4th European Healey meet in Crieff,
 Scotland
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have posted some impressions from from the Concours in Crieff on my website.
If interested, please click on the link:

http://healeyspecialists.com/4th-european-healey-meet-in-crieff-scotland/

Magnus Karlsson
Boras Motor Corporation AB
www.concourshealeys.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 16:50:11 2013
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Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2013 17:50:19 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130514
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To: Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net>
References: <2091648009.1026228.1370480819137.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
	<623B9BF7EE664011B41E1F2EA85640C8@CharliePC>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 Air Cleaners
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Nope. hammertone painted finish.

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 06/07/2013 09:30 AM, Charlie Schott wrote:
> Could someone please tell me if the original air cleaners on a 1960 BT7
> were chromed. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 18:03:36 2013
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130606201049.0207fea0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
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Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 07:15:42 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 carb jet head and spitting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

  John -

You have to do all the presets for the floats, jet levels and Idle screws
first before tuning (also all the spark plugs etc.).  Failing to do so
means you'll get tuning over-compensation from one carb to others through
the balance tube, and the carbs will falsely appear balanced when tuning,
when in fact one carb will be running too far rich to compensate for others
running too lean at idle.

Once all the presets are done per manual, especially the jet presets level,
then you set idle speed as slow as possible then adjust richness for all
three carbs in unison until roughly correct, lower idle speed a bit more,
then adjust further, in unison as much as possible, then adjust each carb
individually once the general setting is approximated.  If you do this
right, the individual final richness setting for each carb will then
be only within about a turn and a half of the setting nut from each other.

Of course as you are adjusting, make sure your linkages are delinked during
the process.

Best,

Alan


>> 2013/6/7 john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>>  I have questions concerning a BT7 tricarb.
>>>
>>> While tuning the car, it was noticed the two rear jet heads were at about
>>> the same level but the front jet head was considerably higher (all were
>>> below the bottom of the Venturi). It is my understanding the height of
>>> the
>>> seat is related to float height setting and lean/rich jet adjustment.
>>>
>>> Should I recheck the float levels to see if something is amiss and adjust
>>> so the jet bearing seats are more uniform before I tune the carbs?
>>>
>>> The carbs sometimes spit petrol, while cold (common issue I believe) and
>>> upon acceleration when the engine is hot. Is this an issue related to
>>> valve
>>> timing and/or rocker clearance? I think spitting back fuel can be caused
>>> by
>>> a too lean condition.
>>>
>>> Could the valves be staying open too long? I have a Denis Welch road cam
>>> which is similar to a BJ8. Per DW, the rocker clearance is set to .015
>>> cold.
>>>
>>> Needing clues to fine tune the healey.
>>>
>>> TIA
>>> John Spaur
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 18:58:18 2013
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From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 19:11:47 -0500
To: Healey List Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Throttle Pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

How many pounds of force needs to be applied to fully open the throttle on a
late model BJ8?  I am installing cruise control and having problems maintaing
speed. I need about 35 pounds to start movement and more for full throttle. I
put stronger springs on it to insure it came back to a full closed position
when I let off the pedal.

I presume there is very little tension needed if the carbs are working
correctly but...

Thank you.

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 20:04:47 2013
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	<001201ce63a3$e476e7e0$ad64b7a0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
From: Don <fsufan1952@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 21:18:42 -0400
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I got all brake,fuel and clutch lines in stainless from classic tubes, They
all fit the first time.I did send them my lines to copy and keep for future
jobs as they didn't have a set of late BJ 8 lines .And what was I going to do
with them ?
No financial gains, just a satisfied customer.
       Don

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 7, 2013, at 1:24 PM, "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:

> I've got Goodrich all round. Didn't buy them from Moss though. Suppose they
> are the same.
> They are excellent.
> Simon
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of R Phillips
> Sent: 07 June 2013 16:37
> To: healeylist
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines
>
> Has anyone had experience with the Goodrich stainless steel brake line sets
> sold by Moss motors?  Worthy?
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 20:46:31 2013
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From: Jim Lesher <cleona44@hotmail.com>
To: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 19:19:07 -0400
References: <5861210.1370290083217.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net>,
	<CACPMnYpTncvfa+6_F3PDDA4-4oT=1bzN5TqUwuHShbmxZ0g7Kw@mail.gmail.com>,
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	FILETIME=[BF3B53D0:01CE60B0]
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	"Dan Dougherty Sr." <globalrc@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original 100-6 side curtains on ebay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

these side curtains are correct for the later 100-six and early 3000, but not
for the Longbridge BN4

jim lesher

> Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 16:05:24 -0500
> From: jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com
> To: eyera3000@gmail.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net; globalrc@mindspring.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Original 100-6 side curtains on ebay
>
> appear original to me as they are like the ones on my BN6.
> cheers,
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 3:21 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Haven't seen my Moss side curtains in a while, but these do not look OEM.
> > Can someone chime in on weather or not these are OEM or aftermarket?
> > Ira Erbs
> > Portland, OR
> >    _______                                  _______
> >      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
> >          (_________________________)
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 1:08 PM, Dan Dougherty Sr.
> > <globalrc@mindspring.com>wrote:
> >
> > > Nice set of original 100-6 sidecurtains with brackets and goo glass on
> > > ebay.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181150849304?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.
m1558.l2649
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> jerry wall  BN6
> rowlett, tx
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 21:06:11 2013
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	<8D030E49F40DEE8-1DF4-A434@webmail-vd008.sysops.aol.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 01:58:55 +1000
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Fair call Gary.
I was being a bit "gung ho" with 20 minutes.
My dear old Mum told me millions of times to not exaggerate.... ;-)
Max revs with inadequate (low) octane fuel wouldn't take more than a couple of
minutes to prove my point....
20 minutes - yes - exaggeration.
Yes. Like you, I buy the best fuel available.
Sincerely.
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 07/06/2013, at 1:49 AM, warthodson@aol.com wrote:

> I put 25,000 miles on in the last 5 years. We often take long trips &
although
> we avoid interstate highways when possible, we often drive for 8-10
hours/day
> at speeds between 60-80 MPH. We use the highest octane pump fuel available
&
> have had no problems we can blame on the fuel.
> I have a vintage race car that has a full race engine. 20 minutes at red
line
> on a dyno seems a little harsh on an engine to me.
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 21:07:34 2013
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	<8D030E49F40DEE8-1DF4-A434@webmail-vd008.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 17:01:28 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob

I think you are focussing too much on the word 'quality' which I used
originally. I meant low octane, which for my purposes with a Healey, means
poor quality. I appreciate that modern fuels in their own way are no doubt
'high' quality but they aren't ideal for a Healey, particularly one that
has increased performance. I have a Jaguar XF and I couldn't care less what
fuel I put in it, as long as its diesel and not petrol!

Derek


On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 4:49 PM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

> I put 25,000 miles on in the last 5 years. We often take long trips &
> although
> we avoid interstate highways when possible, we often drive for 8-10
> hours/day
> at speeds between 60-80 MPH. We use the highest octane pump fuel available
> &
> have had no problems we can blame on the fuel.
> I have a vintage race car that has a full race engine. 20 minutes at red
> line
> on a dyno seems a little harsh on an engine to me.
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 22:39:28 2013
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	with SMTP; 07 Jun 2013 21:01:27 -0700 PDT
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2013 21:00:58 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
	mail.com>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130606201049.0207fea0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<CA+QDXmCAccEqN2UqQ3F378Xu4CRYaWg5Qe2JX0ggUfc23Hk-WQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<51B1A43C.1080207@chello.nl>
	<CAFBXTkKiWLHreTVmE3aUrsXyiXbT6s31pOkG+MpezaFmp0bNRw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] HS4 carb jet head and spitting - UPDATE
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All the presets; static timing, rocker clearance, points and plugs 
were spot on.

My HS4 tricarbs have plastic floats which are non-adjustable. 
However, there was a very thin fiber washer (stock) under the float 
needle seat. The washer changed the float level so it was out of 
spec. Removing the washer put the float level back to normal. 
Incidentally, the SU tuning manual states that float level is not critical.

Bottom line is I was able to setup the carbs and a little more micro 
advance (the knob on the distributor) resolved the spitting through 
the carbs. All is good.

John Spaur
'62 BT7  
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 00:34:44 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Charlie Schott'" <schottc@knology.net>, <goldengt@cal.net>,
	<josef-eckert@t-online.de>
References: <2091648009.1026228.1370480819137.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
	<623B9BF7EE664011B41E1F2EA85640C8@CharliePC>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 18:25:46 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac5jhGC6pNmfke17QFKjn5Vg+SYoxAAH43bg
Content-Language: en-gb
Cc: 'Forum Healeys' <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 Air Cleaners
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

No. Grey paint, similar to smoothish Hammerite.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Charlie Schott
Sent: 07 June 2013 14:30
To: goldengt@cal.net; josef-eckert@t-online.de
Cc: Forum Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 Air Cleaners

Could someone please tell me if the original air cleaners on a 1960 BT7 were
chromed. Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie





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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 01:08:02 2013
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References: <9999868A-D67B-4AA9-9793-B32C927FAE4D@bornet.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 08:02:42 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Cc: Healey Lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Concours at the 4th European Healey meet in
 Crieff, Scotland
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for posting Magnus. I see you won again with Nils-Frederic's blue
3000. I was chatting to him recently when he was racing at Donnington Park

Derek


On Fri, Jun 7, 2013 at 10:07 PM, Magnus Karlsson
<magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>wrote:

> I have posted some impressions from from the Concours in Crieff on my
> website.
> If interested, please click on the link:
>
> http://healeyspecialists.com/4th-european-healey-meet-in-crieff-scotland/
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> Boras Motor Corporation AB
> www.concourshealeys.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 01:37:00 2013
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Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2013 09:25:12 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <D042FFCB-6C9D-4FC9-A00B-FCE5C3F3FB22@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Throttle Pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

35lbs or around 150N for the throttle pedal?
No way!!
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Op 8-6-2013 2:11, Price Lindsay schreef:
> How many pounds of force needs to be applied to fully open the throttle on a
> late model BJ8?  I am installing cruise control and having problems maintaing
> speed. I need about 35 pounds to start movement and more for full throttle. I
> put stronger springs on it to insure it came back to a full closed position
> when I let off the pedal.
>
> I presume there is very little tension needed if the carbs are working
> correctly but...
>
> Thank you.
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 06:00:03 2013
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Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 7:48:45 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>, Derek Job
	<derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Didn't know the XF was even for sale yet---still in the show phase here.  And really didn't know it was diesel.  Maybe I messed up the designation.

Cheers
tom

---- Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Bob

I think you are focussing too much on the word 'quality' which I used
originally. I meant low octane, which for my purposes with a Healey, means
poor quality. I appreciate that modern fuels in their own way are no doubt
'high' quality but they aren't ideal for a Healey, particularly one that
has increased performance. I have a Jaguar XF and I couldn't care less what
fuel I put in it, as long as its diesel and not petrol!

Derek


On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 4:49 PM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

> I put 25,000 miles on in the last 5 years. We often take long trips &
> although
> we avoid interstate highways when possible, we often drive for 8-10
> hours/day
> at speeds between 60-80 MPH. We use the highest octane pump fuel available
> &
> have had no problems we can blame on the fuel.
> I have a vintage race car that has a full race engine. 20 minutes at red
> line
> on a dyno seems a little harsh on an engine to me.
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 16:35:41 2013
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From: Leonard Berkowitz <drberkowitz@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 18:29:53 -0400
	FILETIME=[B2919E10:01CE6497]
Subject: [Healeys] Jaguar problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi out there

Hopefully one of you can either help me or knows someone who can help me with
my problem.

My 1998 Jaguar XJ8 has about 75000 miles. This is the first Jaguar like
problem I have ever had.

Nothing makes sense.  After the engine is warmed up the following problems all
start at once

1) The temperature gauge rockets up to the top and the warning light comes
on.
2) The air conditioner suddenly shuts off and warm air starts blowing into the
car.
3) The transmission refuses to shift past third gear.  (biggest problem!)
4) When I shut the car off the electric fans continue to run at high speed for
an unusually long period of time

I checked the water level and found it to be topped off properly.  I haven't
checked the transmission oil level since it is a sealed unit and there is no
dipstick, just a fill plug which I haven't crawled under the car to check yet.
I doubt, however, if that is a problem since there are no signs of leakage
under the car.

I thought that perhaps the tranny was overheating or that the temp sensory was
faulty and might be sending an incorrect signal to the computer causing the
tranny to stay at high revs to help cool the engine, but why would the AC shut
down?

I can't see the connection between the problems, other then perhaps a computer
malfunction.

Any ideas would be welcome.

Len B
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 16:47:16 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Leonard Berkowitz'" <drberkowitz@hotmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY175-W349140379DB636B04F8F9EB89A0@phx.gbl>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 16:40:11 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac5kl8d82Y7IP/GPTkWxQYHERkDMuwAAQjAA
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jaguar problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

1st pull the codes. Any/most auto parts stores can do this for you for free.
Go from there. 
Otherwise, replace the temp sensor. Check A/C for refrigerant level. 
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Leonard Berkowitz
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2013 4:30 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Jaguar problem

Hi out there

Hopefully one of you can either help me or knows someone who can help me
with
my problem.

My 1998 Jaguar XJ8 has about 75000 miles. This is the first Jaguar like
problem I have ever had.

Nothing makes sense.  After the engine is warmed up the following problems
all
start at once

1) The temperature gauge rockets up to the top and the warning light comes
on.
2) The air conditioner suddenly shuts off and warm air starts blowing into
the
car.
3) The transmission refuses to shift past third gear.  (biggest problem!)
4) When I shut the car off the electric fans continue to run at high speed
for
an unusually long period of time

I checked the water level and found it to be topped off properly.  I haven't
checked the transmission oil level since it is a sealed unit and there is no
dipstick, just a fill plug which I haven't crawled under the car to check
yet.
I doubt, however, if that is a problem since there are no signs of leakage
under the car.

I thought that perhaps the tranny was overheating or that the temp sensory
was
faulty and might be sending an incorrect signal to the computer causing the
tranny to stay at high revs to help cool the engine, but why would the AC
shut
down?

I can't see the connection between the problems, other then perhaps a
computer
malfunction.

Any ideas would be welcome.

Len B
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 17:48:53 2013
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To: frogeye@porterscustom.com, drberkowitz@hotmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
From: Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jaguar problem
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Check the codes. If the car is overheating the computer will cut off the A/C
to help keep the car cool and sometimes the computer will put you in a limp
home mode which may be your transmission problem (normally it limits the
revs)

I bet you problem is just one thing like a water pump or sensor.


Jim Werner
Louisville, KY



-----Original Message-----
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: 'Leonard Berkowitz' <drberkowitz@hotmail.com>; healeys
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jun 8, 2013 6:42 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jaguar problem


1st pull the codes. Any/most auto parts stores can do this for you for free.
Go from there.
Otherwise, replace the temp sensor. Check A/C for refrigerant level.
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Leonard Berkowitz
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2013 4:30 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Jaguar problem

Hi out there

Hopefully one of you can either help me or knows someone who can help me
with
my problem.

My 1998 Jaguar XJ8 has about 75000 miles. This is the first Jaguar like
problem I have ever had.

Nothing makes sense.  After the engine is warmed up the following problems
all
start at once

1) The temperature gauge rockets up to the top and the warning light comes
on.
2) The air conditioner suddenly shuts off and warm air starts blowing into
the
car.
3) The transmission refuses to shift past third gear.  (biggest problem!)
4) When I shut the car off the electric fans continue to run at high speed
for
an unusually long period of time

I checked the water level and found it to be topped off properly.  I haven't
checked the transmission oil level since it is a sealed unit and there is no
dipstick, just a fill plug which I haven't crawled under the car to check
yet.
I doubt, however, if that is a problem since there are no signs of leakage
under the car.

I thought that perhaps the tranny was overheating or that the temp sensory
was
faulty and might be sending an incorrect signal to the computer causing the
tranny to stay at high revs to help cool the engine, but why would the AC
shut
down?

I can't see the connection between the problems, other then perhaps a
computer
malfunction.

Any ideas would be welcome.

Len B
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwhlyadv@aol.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 18:34:25 2013
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	RLxzLpXVMMz2fMmUurLIpST0gSQ--
	smtp109.mail.bf1.yahoo.com with SMTP; 08 Jun 2013 17:28:12 -0700 PDT
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 17:28:14 -0700
References: <BAY175-W349140379DB636B04F8F9EB89A0@phx.gbl>
To: Leonard Berkowitz <drberkowitz@hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jaguar problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

there probably is air in the cooling system or low on coolant. The ac is
shutting off due to the engine control module sees it is overheating. The
transmission is going into a limp mode you also probably have performance
restriction on the dash.  When the performance restriction is on the
transmission is limited to gears and the vehicle performance is restricted to
protect its self.


On Jun 8, 2013, at 3:29 PM, Leonard Berkowitz <drberkowitz@hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi out there
>
> Hopefully one of you can either help me or knows someone who can help me
with
> my problem.
>
> My 1998 Jaguar XJ8 has about 75000 miles. This is the first Jaguar like
> problem I have ever had.
>
> Nothing makes sense.  After the engine is warmed up the following problems
all
> start at once
>
> 1) The temperature gauge rockets up to the top and the warning light comes
> on.
> 2) The air conditioner suddenly shuts off and warm air starts blowing into
the
> car.
> 3) The transmission refuses to shift past third gear.  (biggest problem!)
> 4) When I shut the car off the electric fans continue to run at high speed
for
> an unusually long period of time
>
> I checked the water level and found it to be topped off properly.  I
haven't
> checked the transmission oil level since it is a sealed unit and there is
no
> dipstick, just a fill plug which I haven't crawled under the car to check
yet.
> I doubt, however, if that is a problem since there are no signs of leakage
> under the car.
>
> I thought that perhaps the tranny was overheating or that the temp sensory
was
> faulty and might be sending an incorrect signal to the computer causing the
> tranny to stay at high revs to help cool the engine, but why would the AC
shut
> down?
>
> I can't see the connection between the problems, other then perhaps a
computer
> malfunction.
>
> Any ideas would be welcome.
>
> Len B
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
>

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
www.britishcarspecialists.com



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
www.britishcarspecialists.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 18:50:02 2013
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Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2013 20:22:19 -0400
From: Steve Feld <stevenergy@optonline.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac5kptwdBqlYyuhBQTC/o2Q57pF6Ow==
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I installed Goodrich brake lines this past winter on my BT7.  They fit
perfectly, look great and the brakes work well as a bonus!.  I got them from
Little British Car Company which gets them from Moss but sells them at a
discount from Moss. 
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 19:06:39 2013
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References: <BAY175-W349140379DB636B04F8F9EB89A0@phx.gbl>
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 17:53:15 -0700
To: Leonard Berkowitz <drberkowitz@hotmail.com>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jaguar problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All the symptoms you list ( high temp, no AC, fans staying on, trans shifting)
indicate the ECM thinks the car is overheating.
You could have an o/ heat issue
Or a bad temp sensor or the wire to the sensor shorting to ground.
I would verify that there isn't an actual overheat issue first.
If you don't have one Harbor Freight sells a laser guided non contact
thermometer for about $25.
Get one. Measure the temps at the water outlet from the engine and at the
outlet from the rad.
Verify the coolant is full in the system not just the overflow bottle.
Then if all of that checks out look at the sensor and wiring.
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 8, 2013, at 15:29, Leonard Berkowitz <drberkowitz@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hi out there
>
> Hopefully one of you can either help me or knows someone who can help me
with
> my problem.
>
> My 1998 Jaguar XJ8 has about 75000 miles. This is the first Jaguar like
> problem I have ever had.
>
> Nothing makes sense.  After the engine is warmed up the following problems
all
> start at once
>
> 1) The temperature gauge rockets up to the top and the warning light comes
> on.
> 2) The air conditioner suddenly shuts off and warm air starts blowing into
the
> car.
> 3) The transmission refuses to shift past third gear.  (biggest problem!)
> 4) When I shut the car off the electric fans continue to run at high speed
for
> an unusually long period of time
>
> I checked the water level and found it to be topped off properly.  I
haven't
> checked the transmission oil level since it is a sealed unit and there is
no
> dipstick, just a fill plug which I haven't crawled under the car to check
yet.
> I doubt, however, if that is a problem since there are no signs of leakage
> under the car.
>
> I thought that perhaps the tranny was overheating or that the temp sensory
was
> faulty and might be sending an incorrect signal to the computer causing the
> tranny to stay at high revs to help cool the engine, but why would the AC
shut
> down?
>
> I can't see the connection between the problems, other then perhaps a
computer
> malfunction.
>
> Any ideas would be welcome.
>
> Len B
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 19:35:44 2013
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Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2013 20:24:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: llennep@verizon.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,
 
I have come across two bulbs and I know not their application.  Maybe one of you can help me.
 
Each is in a orange, black and white box.  Labeled Lumax auto bulbs. Made in England.  Both are identified as
12v    48w   BPF  CC    NO 185
I think they are for spot lamps but not sure.  Can anyone tell me for sure?
 
TIA
Keith
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 21:23:43 2013
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Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 20:13:55 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: llennep@verizon.net
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/12v%7C48w%7Cpygmy28mm%7Cbritish-prefocus-cc%7Caxial%7Cpf6~lumax.html
European headlight bulb

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Jun 8, 2013 6:24 PM, <llennep@verizon.net> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I have come across two bulbs and I know not their application.  Maybe one
> of you can help me.
>
> Each is in a orange, black and white box.  Labeled Lumax auto bulbs. Made
> in England.  Both are identified as
> 12v    48w   BPF  CC    NO 185
> I think they are for spot lamps but not sure.  Can anyone tell me for sure?
>
> TIA
> Keith
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 22:25:21 2013
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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2013 00:15:16 -0400
From: Elton Schulz <eschulz@frontiernet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130215
	Thunderbird/17.0.3
To: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
References: <51B00932.6070800@frontiernet.net>
	<CAA-dtXbeu-0P3HM0j_XvrWyd04AdCA8J+UVXuAohb9WNkJCgTg@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Removing main bearing caps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for replying, Mike.
I thought they might be 1/2"NF but I couldn't get a 1/2" to go in. Turns 
out that on my BJ7 it's a 1/4" pipe thread for the front three main 
bearings and a 1/2" pipe thread for the rear main.
Elton
On 6/8/2013 6:35 AM, Mike Tobin wrote:
>
> Elton,
> Mine just happen to be sitting on the workbench - 1/2 nf (at least 
> that thread cleaner goes right in).
> I just pulled up on them while tapping with a hammer and they came 
> right out or presented a gap I could get a screwdriver in to pry the 
> rest of the way. No real effort.
> Mike Tobin
>
> On Jun 6, 2013 12:00 AM, "Elton Schulz" <eschulz@frontiernet.net 
>
>     Fellow Listers,
>     Anyone know the thread size of the center hole of the main bearing
>     caps? I plan on using a slide hammer to pull them off the crank.
>     Thanks,
>     Elton
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbt71@gmail.com
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Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2013 22:16:42 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I thought I had fixed the oil seal leak at the timing cover crank 
shaft. However, it started leaking. When I took the pulley and timing 
cover off I could see that the seal was off center.

The only way I can think of to center the oil seal is to put the 
cover on loosely with a few bolts and turn the engine over a few 
times. Is this what the experts are doing?

TIA

John Spaur
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 00:01:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John,

Not sure what the experts do but that works for me. Cover goes on
the bolts loosely first, lube and fit the pulley then tighten the bolts. Easy.
Be sure your seal running surface is thoroughly sanded with 240 grit wet-n-dry
to give the correct roughness and that it doesn't have a groove or other
damage.

The only way I have managed to get the gasket face to seal is to
thoroughly clean and apply high quality silicone sealant on both sides of the
gasket. Hylomar and other non-setting ones don't seem to have the bulk to fill
the inevitable unevenness.

Andy.


--- On Sun, 9/6/13, john spaur
<jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>
Subject: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>
Received: Sunday, 9 June, 2013, 5:16 PM
> I thought I had fixed the oil seal
>
leak at the timing cover crank shaft. However, it started
> leaking. When I
took the pulley and timing cover off I could
> see that the seal was off
center.
> 
> The only way I can think of to center the oil seal is to put
>
the cover on loosely with a few bolts and turn the engine
> over a few times.
Is this what the experts are doing?
> 
> TIA
> 
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
>
Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bce257@yahoo.co.nz
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 02:32:18 2013
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 01:25:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] A last few bits
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

After three years I am nearing the end of the first phase of rebuilding BN4 O
40559 which is assembling everything to driving condition to iron out the
inevitable bugs before a full stripdown for final paint.

We took a drive to
the beach last Sunday which was very pleasant. 3.54 diff and OD are a pleasure
to cruise and the Kilmartin chassis is tight and rattle free. A fine winters
day plus fully ceramic coated exhaust system meant that we had the heater and
blower on full hot all the way.
http://tinyurl.com/kkvh3cp

I'm on the hunt
for some good/used parts, please reply in private if anyone has NOS or used
spares of the following:

2 * windscreen pillar to shroud countersunk Philips
screws
2 * dome nuts for the hood toggle latches
1 * fuel pipe end- the part
that solders onto the engine-bay end of the main fuel pipe and has a large hex
on it with a threaded fitting to accept the flexible hose to the carbs. It is
different to the rear/fuel pump end fittings.
2 * RHD wiper arms and blades.
Mine are 'modified' to take a different style of blade and I'd like to have
the original type.
2 * hood frame slider/pivot bolts for BN4 Longbridge. Mine
have been brazed to the frame and aren't quite in the right places.
15 *
header rail wood screws that hold the aluminum retaining rail on
1 * door
checkstrap clevis pin, the one with a screwdriver slot that screws into the
chrome shoe.
[about 40] interior trim screws with Philips head. I can only
find Pozidrive ones online, anyone found a supply of original Philips ones?
Andy.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 05:58:05 2013
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 7:52:27 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A last few bits
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Where in NZ do you live?  If near Wellington, to get to the beach you have to climb over some of the most beautiful mountains on the smallest, most curvey road I've been on in a while, past the Manuka bushes----------georgous country---and the Healey isn't to bad either!:)


---- Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz> wrote: 

=============
After three years I am nearing the end of the first phase of rebuilding BN4 O
40559 which is assembling everything to driving condition to iron out the
inevitable bugs before a full stripdown for final paint.

We took a drive to
the beach last Sunday 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 09:39:25 -0400
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timing cover oil seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That's the advice I've been given. But I found that once I'd got all 
the bolts in place, it didn't have much room for movement and I 
couldn't call it loose. I'm hoping I got it centered, but there 
really wasn't any wiggle room on mine before I tightened the bolts.
Stephen, BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2013 10:29:21 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] MKII front shroud badge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What is the quality of the Moss Austin-Healey 3000 MKII badge?

I checked on having one, which is in fair to good condition, restored 
and it is around $550. The Moss one is $240.

John Spaur
San Jose
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 12:05:26 2013
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From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2013 14:00:05 -0400
References: <20130609075227.RS59R.1775.root@pamxwww04-z01>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] NZ Full Moon Silhouettes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I received the following with a video link. If our NZ members haven't seen
this already I thought they might enjoy this. --- Al Malin, Tricarb


A photographer captured what is one of the most remarkable things I have ever
seen filmed.  It is a 3 minute video clip of the full moon rising over
Wellington NZ. It was shot on a calm summer evening, as people gathered on the
Mt. Victoria Lookout point to watch the moon rise.

The little ripples on the edge of the moon are due to density bubbles in the
atmosphere, and we're looking through a lot of it at this low elevation angle.
You'll notice that the silhouettes of the people are pretty sharp, since there
is a lot less atmosphere from the camera to them than it is from the camera
out to the moon.

This stunning video is one single real-time shot, with no manipulation
whatsoever. The camera was placed on a hillside over 2 kilometers from the
Lookout point, and was shot with the equivalent of a 1300 mm lens.
The amount of planning, trial and error, and luck that went into this are mind
blowing. He has been trying to capture this for over a year with many failed
attempts. But 2 nights ago it seems everything was on his side, and it all
came together in a way even he couldn't have hoped.

I honestly can't say enough good things about this video - from the magnitude
of the visuals, to the intimate stories playing out with the people, to the
sheer humbling nature of seeing the awe-inspiring reality of this giant rock
in the sky that we so often don't stop to appreciate.

One thing I encourage you to do is watch this on the biggest screen you have.

https://vimeo.com/58385453 (sound on)



On Jun 9, 2013, at 7:52 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> Where in NZ do you live?  If near Wellington, to get to the beach you have
to climb over some of the most beautiful mountains on the smallest, most
curvey road I've been on in a while, past the Manuka bushes----------georgous
country---and the Healey isn't to bad either!:)
>
>
> ---- Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz> wrote:
>
> =============
> After three years I am nearing the end of the first phase of rebuilding BN4
O
> 40559 which is assembling everything to driving condition to iron out the
> inevitable bugs before a full stripdown for final paint.
>
> We took a drive to
> the beach last Sunday
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 14:51:23 2013
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From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 21:38:48 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Did anyone see the Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade, It was 22 Healeys, one
for every driver. Where did they get that number of Healeys from?

Tom
AH3000 MKIII BJ8
MGA 1600
Mini Park LAne
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 15:24:36 2013
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 17:19:07 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: [Healeys] Sherwood Car Show in Oregon
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Eight or nine nice AH's at the show yesterday.  Anyone on the list? We were in
the middle of our eldest grandson's graduation party last night when one of
the folks said he had some photos to show me. Nice line up of Healeys in the
bright Oregon sunshine.
Aloha
Perry
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 15:33:48 2013
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 14:24:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] NZ Full Moon Silhouettes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Beautiful.

--- On Sun, 6/9/13, Al Malin <amalin@mac.com> wrote:

> From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] NZ Full Moon Silhouettes
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sunday, June 9, 2013, 2:00 PM
> I received the following with a video
> link. If our NZ members haven't seen
> this already I thought they might enjoy this. --- Al Malin,
> Tricarb
>
>
> A photographer captured what is one of the most remarkable
> things I have ever
> seen filmed.  It is a 3 minute video clip of the full
> moon rising over
> Wellington NZ. It was shot on a calm summer evening, as
> people gathered on the
> Mt. Victoria Lookout point to watch the moon rise.
>
> The little ripples on the edge of the moon are due to
> density bubbles in the
> atmosphere, and we're looking through a lot of it at this
> low elevation angle.
> You'll notice that the silhouettes of the people are pretty
> sharp, since there
> is a lot less atmosphere from the camera to them than it is
> from the camera
> out to the moon.
>
> This stunning video is one single real-time shot, with no
> manipulation
> whatsoever. The camera was placed on a hillside over 2
> kilometers from the
> Lookout point, and was shot with the equivalent of a 1300 mm
> lens.
> The amount of planning, trial and error, and luck that went
> into this are mind
> blowing. He has been trying to capture this for over a year
> with many failed
> attempts. But 2 nights ago it seems everything was on his
> side, and it all
> came together in a way even he couldn't have hoped.
>
> I honestly can't say enough good things about this video -
> from the magnitude
> of the visuals, to the intimate stories playing out with the
> people, to the
> sheer humbling nature of seeing the awe-inspiring reality of
> this giant rock
> in the sky that we so often don't stop to appreciate.
>
> One thing I encourage you to do is watch this on the biggest
> screen you have.
>
> https://vimeo.com/58385453 (sound on)
>
>
>
> On Jun 9, 2013, at 7:52 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Where in NZ do you live?  If near Wellington, to
> get to the beach you have
> to climb over some of the most beautiful mountains on the
> smallest, most
> curvey road I've been on in a while, past the Manuka
> bushes----------georgous
> country---and the Healey isn't to bad either!:)
> >
> >
> > ---- Andrew Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
> wrote:
> >
> > =============
> > After three years I am nearing the end of the first
> phase of rebuilding BN4
> O
> > 40559 which is assembling everything to driving
> condition to iron out the
> > inevitable bugs before a full stripdown for final
> paint.
> >
> > We took a drive to
> > the beach last Sunday
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 15:49:55 2013
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 14:40:49 -0700
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Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  NZ Full Moon Silhouettes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Mandas" <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Al Malin" <amalin@mac.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] NZ Full Moon Silhouettes


> Beautiful.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 16:06:55 2013
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From: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
To: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd"
	<enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <82713C3BB7404FCE950824C00624DC53@TomVistaPC>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 18:01:05 -0400
	FILETIME=[DEB084F0:01CE655C]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade
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>From the Austin-Healey Club of America, Quebec Chapter.  They have been
doing this for over 10 years.  Their Chapter President is Claude Lamontage.
They are the club that is putting on this years biggest annual event,
Conclave Charlevoix 2013, June 23rd b 28th 2013.  Go to our web site for
further details.
Where are you located?  We have local branches of our club in 45 locations
throughout the USA & Canada.  We would love to see you join us.
Gary Brierton
National AHCA President

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 4:38 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade

Did anyone see the Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade, It was 22 Healeys,
one
for every driver. Where did they get that number of Healeys from?

Tom
AH3000 MKIII BJ8
MGA 1600
Mini Park LAne
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 18:55:34 2013
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To: Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd
  <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade
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From

http://www.austinhealeyquebec.com

Gilbert
Le 2013-06-09 ` 16:38, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd a icrit :

> Did anyone see the Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade, It was 22 Healeys,
one
> for every driver. Where did they get that number of Healeys from?
>
> Tom
> AH3000 MKIII BJ8
> MGA 1600
> Mini Park LAne
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 04:27:25 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 11:21:35 +0100
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Subject: [Healeys] Spark plug gap
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I have a BT7 MkII with 123Ignition & a Lucas Sports coil.

On the engine side it has 3 HD6s, a 6 branch big bore exhaust, and a Denis
Welch fast road cam.

 

What spark plug gaps do you experts suggest? (I'll be running NGK's BP 6ES
plugs).

Thanks,

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 04:54:04 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 12:44:36 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <000b01ce65c4$49368bf0$dba3a3d0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark plug gap
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For electronic ignition about 1,2mm should be ok. Standard points 
ignition is generally around 1,0mm.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 10-6-2013 12:21, Simon Lachlan schreef:
> I have a BT7 MkII with 123Ignition & a Lucas Sports coil.
>
> On the engine side it has 3 HD6s, a 6 branch big bore exhaust, and a Denis
> Welch fast road cam.
>
>   
>
> What spark plug gaps do you experts suggest? (I'll be running NGK's BP 6ES
> plugs).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 05:09:34 2013
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From: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
To: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: 10 Jun 2013 13:00:49 +0200
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark plug gap
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Hi Simon,

standard plug gap is more like .7 or .8 mm. I wouldn't widen the gap to more than 1 mm with 123ignition.

Regards

Eric
www.brits-n-pieces.com



I have a BT7 MkII with 123Ignition & a Lucas Sports coil.

On the engine side it has 3 HD6s, a 6 branch big bore exhaust, and a Denis
Welch fast road cam.

 

What spark plug gaps do you experts suggest? (I'll be running NGK's BP 6ES
plugs).

Thanks,

Simon
.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 06:17:05 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 8:11:30 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>,  Tom McCay -
	Classic-Car-World Ltd <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>, 
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Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'll be leaving for there in my BJ8 in a few days!!  Looking so forward to
that drive and the event/location!

tom

---- "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com> wrote:

=============
>From the Austin-Healey Club of America, Quebec Chapter.  They have been
doing this for over 10 years.  Their Chapter President is Claude Lamontage.
They are the club that is putting on this years biggest annual event,
Conclave Charlevoix 2013, June 23rd b 28th 2013.  Go to our web site for
further details.
Where are you located?  We have local branches of our club in 45 locations
throughout the USA & Canada.  We would love to see you join us.
Gary Brierton
National AHCA President

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 4:38 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade

Did anyone see the Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade, It was 22 Healeys,
one
for every driver. Where did they get that number of Healeys from?

Tom
AH3000 MKIII BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 06:43:21 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 13:37:56 +0100
From: Alan Bromfield <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, Forum Healeys
	<Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark plug gap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Phew.
I thought I was going crazy.  I think in imperial 'coz I'm old and
1.2mm instinctively just felt BIG!
 Simon - go to around 30thou (0.030") for the sports coil with 123.
Nice fat spark and very clean firing.


On 10/06/2013, lists <lists@brits-n-pieces.com> wrote:
> Hi Simon,
>
> standard plug gap is more like .7 or .8 mm. I wouldn't widen the gap to more
> than 1 mm with 123ignition.
>
> Regards
>
> Eric
> www.brits-n-pieces.com
>
>
>
> I have a BT7 MkII with 123Ignition & a Lucas Sports coil.
>
> On the engine side it has 3 HD6s, a 6 branch big bore exhaust, and a Denis
> Welch fast road cam.
>
>
>
> What spark plug gaps do you experts suggest? (I'll be running NGK's BP 6ES
> plugs).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon

-- 
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
                (_____bluehealey.com_____)
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 07:04:07 2013
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 08:58:31 -0400
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Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We'll be leaving with 8 cars/couples next Sunday and touring up the northeast
coast for a week and then over to Conclave Charlevoix 2013.

Should be a great event & location.

Drive safe!

Randy Hicks
AHCA 100 Registrar
ahca100registrar@gmail.com


On Jun 10, 2013, at 8:11 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> I'll be leaving for there in my BJ8 in a few days!!  Looking so forward to
> that drive and the event/location!
>
> tom
>
> ---- "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> From the Austin-Healey Club of America, Quebec Chapter.  They have been
> doing this for over 10 years.  Their Chapter President is Claude Lamontage.
> They are the club that is putting on this years biggest annual event,
> Conclave Charlevoix 2013, June 23rd b 28th 2013.  Go to our web site for
> further details.
> Where are you located?  We have local branches of our club in 45 locations
> throughout the USA & Canada.  We would love to see you join us.
> Gary Brierton
> National AHCA President
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd
> Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 4:38 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade
>
> Did anyone see the Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade, It was 22 Healeys,
> one
> for every driver. Where did they get that number of Healeys from?
>
> Tom
> AH3000 MKIII BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@gmail.com
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	<CAO4jdWJG=AYH9_7491ms4u1zQvcGVmTZC5AkoTrTX0GgJxGd5A@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spark plug gap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

30thou is about 0,8mm which is to narrow for electronic ignition with 
sports coil. It will not do any harm but the spark will not be optimal. 
I prefer 1-1,2mm/40-45thou on my Petronix for a fatter spark.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 10-6-2013 14:37, Alan Bromfield schreef:
> Phew.
> I thought I was going crazy.  I think in imperial 'coz I'm old and
> 1.2mm instinctively just felt BIG!
>   Simon - go to around 30thou (0.030") for the sports coil with 123.
> Nice fat spark and very clean firing.
>
>
> On 10/06/2013, lists <lists@brits-n-pieces.com> wrote:
>> Hi Simon,
>>
>> standard plug gap is more like .7 or .8 mm. I wouldn't widen the gap to more
>> than 1 mm with 123ignition.
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Eric
>> www.brits-n-pieces.com
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a BT7 MkII with 123Ignition & a Lucas Sports coil.
>>
>> On the engine side it has 3 HD6s, a 6 branch big bore exhaust, and a Denis
>> Welch fast road cam.
>>
>>
>>
>> What spark plug gaps do you experts suggest? (I'll be running NGK's BP 6ES
>> plugs).
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Simon
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 11:47:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Randy,

In case you take the Taconic Parkway in New York, it's a beautiful drive, but
HEAVELY monitored. They like to come up from behind and match speed. That way
there's no radar signature.

Greg

--- On Mon, 6/10/13, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:

> From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade
> To: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts@windstream.net>
> Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, June 10, 2013, 8:58 AM
> We'll be leaving with 8 cars/couples
> next Sunday and touring up the northeast
> coast for a week and then over to Conclave Charlevoix 2013.
>
> Should be a great event & location.
>
> Drive safe!
>
> Randy Hicks
> AHCA 100 Registrar
> ahca100registrar@gmail.com
>
>
> On Jun 10, 2013, at 8:11 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
> wrote:
>
> > I'll be leaving for there in my BJ8 in a few
> days!!  Looking so forward to
> > that drive and the event/location!
> >
> > tom
> >
> > ---- "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > =============
> > From the Austin-Healey Club of America, Quebec
> Chapter.  They have been
> > doing this for over 10 years.  Their Chapter
> President is Claude Lamontage.
> > They are the club that is putting on this years biggest
> annual event,
> > Conclave Charlevoix 2013, June 23rd b 28th 2013. 
> Go to our web site for
> > further details.
> > Where are you located?  We have local branches of
> our club in 45 locations
> > throughout the USA & Canada.  We would love to
> see you join us.
> > Gary Brierton
> > National AHCA President
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd
> > Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 4:38 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade
> >
> > Did anyone see the Canadian Grand Prix Drivers Parade,
> It was 22 Healeys,
> > one
> > for every driver. Where did they get that number of
> Healeys from?
> >
> > Tom
> > AH3000 MKIII BJ8
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 13:53:12 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 15:42:34 -0400
	FILETIME=[A7D742F0:01CE6612]
Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
	Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I use a Triumph TR6 style distributor cap (Moss # 560-145) on my negative
ground BJ8. I want to buy a spare Pertronix Igniter Electronic Ignition to
carry with me to Charlevoix Conclave.



Should I buy the one made for the Triumph, Moss # 222-395 which says it fits a
negative ground 22 D6 distributor hoping it will fit on the BJ8 shaft & plate;
or should I buy the one made for the negative ground Austin Healey 3000, Moss
# 222-415 which says it fits a negative ground Lucas 23 and 25 D6 distributors
hoping it can fit under the TR6 cap?



Unfortunately I won't have my BJ8 handy for about a week to look and see what
Pertronix is currently installed on it.



Does anyone know the difference between the 2 Pertronix units and would they
please advise me which one to buy for my application?



Thanks!

-Dave Murphy, 66 BJ8

Dearborn Micigan
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 13:53:49 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 15:44:56 -0400
From: George Vernau Sr <gvernau@gmail.com>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Jaguar prablem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had nearly the same problem with a Lincoln LS a few years ago, it turned
out to be two bad coil packs. The miss caused the car to go into limp mode
which also shuts the ac compressor off.
George Vernau
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 14:23:07 2013
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References: <COL127-W1405BFEFD8035E62031648A3840@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 04:17:03 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
Cc: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The fit is about the base plate, not the cap.  If it works, it'll have to
be the AH one, hope it fits under the cap.  It should, the rotor height is
the same so you should be ok.

On Tuesday, June 11, 2013, Dave Murphy wrote:

> I use a Triumph TR6 style distributor cap (Moss # 560-145) on my negative
> ground BJ8. I want to buy a spare Pertronix Igniter Electronic Ignition to
> carry with me to Charlevoix Conclave.
>
>
>
> Should I buy the one made for the Triumph, Moss # 222-395 which says it
> fits a
> negative ground 22 D6 distributor hoping it will fit on the BJ8 shaft &
> plate;
> or should I buy the one made for the negative ground Austin Healey 3000,
> Moss
> # 222-415 which says it fits a negative ground Lucas 23 and 25 D6
> distributors
> hoping it can fit under the TR6 cap?
>
>
>
> Unfortunately I won't have my BJ8 handy for about a week to look and see
> what
> Pertronix is currently installed on it.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know the difference between the 2 Pertronix units and would
> they
> please advise me which one to buy for my application?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Dave Murphy, 66 BJ8
>
> Dearborn Micigan
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 14:43:34 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 20:38:12 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: George Vernau Sr <gvernau@gmail.com>
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Cc: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jaguar prablem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My folks had the same problem with their LS, except the car would die outright instead of just limp (really inconvenient when merging on a busy freeway). Found a website where a pro mechanic had captured the problem with elaborate diagnostic equipment--a failing coil or two can cause a voltage spike on the primary ignition circuit which knocked the ECU unconscious! Eight new coils solved the problem. 

That's a well-known problem with the LS--have heard of people picking up creampuffs on the cheap and installing new coils and getting a really nice car for next-to-nothing (my folks were ready to dump theirs until we found the problem). 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


I had nearly the same problem with a Lincoln LS a few years ago, it turned 
out to be two bad coil packs. The miss caused the car to go into limp mode 
which also shuts the ac compressor off. 
George Vernau 
_______________________________________________ 
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 20:40:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
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Cc: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Call Pertronix and ask for Carl in customer support. He's very helpful, and there's a chance they've encountered this situation before. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


The fit is about the base plate, not the cap. If it works, it'll have to 
be the AH one, hope it fits under the cap. It should, the rotor height is 
the same so you should be ok. 

On Tuesday, June 11, 2013, Dave Murphy wrote: 

> I use a Triumph TR6 style distributor cap (Moss # 560-145) on my negative 
> ground BJ8. I want to buy a spare Pertronix Igniter Electronic Ignition to 
> carry with me to Charlevoix Conclave. 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I buy the one made for the Triumph, Moss # 222-395 which says it 
> fits a 
> negative ground 22 D6 distributor hoping it will fit on the BJ8 shaft & 
> plate; 
> or should I buy the one made for the negative ground Austin Healey 3000, 
> Moss 
> # 222-415 which says it fits a negative ground Lucas 23 and 25 D6 
> distributors 
> hoping it can fit under the TR6 cap? 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I won't have my BJ8 handy for about a week to look and see 
> what 
> Pertronix is currently installed on it. 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the difference between the 2 Pertronix units and would 
> they 
> please advise me which one to buy for my application? 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! 
> 
> -Dave Murphy, 66 BJ8 
> 
> Dearborn Micigan 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 14:46:28 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 15:40:47 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <COL127-W1405BFEFD8035E62031648A3840@phx.gbl>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 6/10/2013 3:17 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> The fit is about the base plate, not the cap.  >>

Whilst true Alan, seems to me there are THREE (3) 'perfect' answers to 
this question <G>:

1]  CONTACT (call or eMail) Pertonix;
2] CONTACT (call or eMail) Moss;
3] Buy the thing and TRY it as not "designed" <VBEG> ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:                    www.justbrits.com

PS:  If I had same situation with a Customers' car(s), I would try all 
of the above IN-ORDER.  LOL
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 15:10:49 2013
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From: "Mark Goodman" <mkgoodman@att.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 17:05:04 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5l4CP+5Srwsu7WRsO+zBsewVD0IgAPdgzg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] FW: BJ8 Front Badge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Dear John,



I bought my front badge from AH SPARES over 12 years ago and it was perfect.
The casting was curved to match the shroud curvature and the red cloisonni
was done by Coates, who did the originals.  I do not know if they still have
any from the original batch, but they are worth contacting.



Mark Goodman

www.austinhealeyessence.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 16:14:32 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] Knock-offs source
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hello ,

just ordered a new set of Dayton 60 spoke wires and vredestein 165/ HR/ 15 tires from universal vintage tire in PA.

has anyone had any dealings with them? good or bad? I would have ordered from Hendrix but Allen is out of town til next month ............I could not wait.

I just bought a 66 BJ8 ..............Driver.....and I want to drive it!!!!!

What vendor is selling the best 2-eared knock-offs now


Mitchell


1959 BN4   (been restoring for years)
1966 BJ8  
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 20:05:06 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 21:56:59 -0400
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Floor Mats on ebay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just listed on ebay. item no. 161043893899

Bob Johnson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 20:35:23 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 22:23:15 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>,  Dave Murphy
	<roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just curious as to why he uses the Tr cap?

tom

---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
The fit is about the base plate, not the cap.  If it works, it'll have to
be the AH one, hope it fits under the cap.  It should, the rotor height is
the same so you should be ok.

On Tuesday, June 11, 2013, Dave Murphy wrote:

> I use a Triumph TR6 style distributor cap (Moss # 560-145) on my negative
> ground BJ8. I want to buy a spare Pertronix Igniter Electronic Ignition to
> carry with me to Charlevoix Conclave.
>
>
>
> Should I buy the one made for the Triumph, Moss # 222-395 which says it
> fits a
_______________________________________________
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From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: caddi5@comcast.net, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock-offs source
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have visited there and bought there-----my experience was very positive.

tom

---- caddi5@comcast.net wrote: 

=============
Hello ,

just ordered a new set of Dayton 60 spoke wires and vredestein 165/ HR/ 15 tires from universal vintage tire in PA.

has anyone had any dealings with them? good or bad? I would have ordered from Hendrix but Allen is out of town til next month ............I could not wait.

I just bought a 66 BJ8 ..............Driver.....and I want to drive it!!!!!

What vendor is selling the best 2-eared knock-offs now


Mitchell


1959 BN4   (been restoring for years)
1966 BJ8  
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 21:37:50 2013
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References: <CAFBXTk+X1i+UdwTZfdi4SY8uXQk-a5tvEKtUmtuCpHs5z078sw@mail.gmail.com>
	<20130610222315.HWSWA.24071.root@pamxwww01-z01>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 11:31:43 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: "healeys
  @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Many people like the TR Cap because you can use modern spec plug wires with
them.  The 25D cap tends to ruin certain types of plug wiring because of
the wire fixing screw.


On Tue, Jun 11, 2013 at 10:23 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> Just curious as to why he uses the Tr cap?
>
> tom
>
> ---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> The fit is about the base plate, not the cap.  If it works, it'll have to
> be the AH one, hope it fits under the cap.  It should, the rotor height is
> the same so you should be ok.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 23:56:24 2013
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	Mon, 10 Jun 2013 22:42:57 -0700
From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>, "healeys @autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 01:42:56 -0400
References: <CAFBXTk+X1i+UdwTZfdi4SY8uXQk-a5tvEKtUmtuCpHs5z078sw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<20130610222315.HWSWA.24071.root@pamxwww01-z01>
	FILETIME=[86C1ACA0:01CE6666]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom,

I use the TR cap, because I am very familiar with that style of cap on my old
Buicks, Oldsmobiles and Chryslers & because I'm afraid of the Healey cap.

A TR style cap was on my car when I bought it 14 years ago, and I stick with
that style each time I change it.

I think the Healey cap is wierd and I look at it suspiciously as something to
be avoided. I guess the Healey style of cap was probably used in other cars
besides the Healey, but I've never encountered any other vehicles that use
this funny looking cap and that tends to make me stay away from it.
I once bought a Healey cap as a spare but I have never been brave enough to
try it. I wonder whether I might be overchallenged to attach the wires with
the correct clamp pressure (what ever that is?) so that i don't damage the
wires but so that they stay reliably attached.

I'm not good at swedging or soldering electrical connectors and often get
others to do these things for me and with my luck I'd probably buy wires that
wouldn't work with the Healey cap.

 -Dave

> Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 22:23:15 -0400
> From: tomfelts@windstream.net
> To: healey.nut@gmail.com; roadwarriordave@hotmail.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
Distributor Cap
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
>
> Just curious as to why he uses the Tr cap?
>
> tom
>
> ---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> The fit is about the base plate, not the cap. If it works, it'll have to
> be the AH one, hope it fits under the cap. It should, the rotor height is
> the same so you should be ok.
>
> On Tuesday, June 11, 2013, Dave Murphy wrote:
>
> > I use a Triumph TR6 style distributor cap (Moss # 560-145) on my negative
> > ground BJ8. I want to buy a spare Pertronix Igniter Electronic Ignition
to
> > carry with me to Charlevoix Conclave.
> >
> >
> >
> > Should I buy the one made for the Triumph, Moss # 222-395 which says it
> > fits a
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 00:11:07 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 01:59:25 -0400
References: <COL127-W1405BFEFD8035E62031648A3840@phx.gbl>
	FILETIME=[D3EF9990:01CE6668]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Dear List,

Thanks for all those who responded to my question!

I did speak to two people at Pertronix and they both said that the correct
unit for my car is the one made for Austin-Healeys (Moss #222-415 ) as the
unit must match the Austin-Healey baseplate inside the distributor. They said
the Pertronix made for the TR6 probably won't fit my distributor baseplate.

Both Pertronix people thought the inside of the distributor caps (TR6 and
Austin-Healey 3000) must be similar enough (because many AH people do use the
TR6 cap) so that the Pertronix for the Austin-Healey baseplate would work with
either cap.

So I've ordered the Moss #222-415 Pertronix as my spare for my trip to
Conclave.

-Dave Murphy


> From: roadwarriordave@hotmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 15:42:34 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
Distributor Cap
>
> I use a Triumph TR6 style distributor cap (Moss # 560-145) on my negative
> ground BJ8. I want to buy a spare Pertronix Igniter Electronic Ignition to
> carry with me to Charlevoix Conclave.
>
>
>
> Should I buy the one made for the Triumph, Moss # 222-395 which says it fits
a
> negative ground 22 D6 distributor hoping it will fit on the BJ8 shaft &
plate;
> or should I buy the one made for the negative ground Austin Healey 3000,
Moss
> # 222-415 which says it fits a negative ground Lucas 23 and 25 D6
distributors
> hoping it can fit under the TR6 cap?
>
>
>
> Unfortunately I won't have my BJ8 handy for about a week to look and see
what
> Pertronix is currently installed on it.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know the difference between the 2 Pertronix units and would
they
> please advise me which one to buy for my application?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Dave Murphy, 66 BJ8
>
> Dearborn Micigan
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 06:06:22 2013
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 04:52:54 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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	Ri+T4ggycTFpg==
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Side note:  I recently bought a second Pertronix as a spare.  My original Ignitor--fitted many years ago--was part# 
LU162P12, the newer one is LU162P12A.  I fit both units with spade connectors to allow easi(er) and quick(er) 
installation, and when doing so noticed the later unit had a different baseplate configuration.  It appears the 
Pertronix 'pickup' sits 'earlier' in the firing sequence; e.g. if the old unit fit at 6 o'clock in the distributor, the 
new one fits at 8 o'clock (the distrbutor cam turns counterclockwise).  I expect if I have to fit the spare in the field 
my timing will be grossly advanced.  I figured I could change the timing to get a decent idle, then drive carefully to 
see if there's any knock and retard from there (or advance until I get knock then retard).  I don't want to carry my 
advance meter at all times, but if necessary I'd buy one--most decent parts houses and Sears--should have them, and set 
the timing correctly.

Bob



On 6/10/2013 10:59 PM, Dave Murphy wrote:
> Dear List,
>
> Thanks for all those who responded to my question!
>
> I did speak to two people at Pertronix and they both said that the correct
> unit for my car is the one made for Austin-Healeys (Moss #222-415 ) as the
> unit must match the Austin-Healey baseplate inside the distributor. They said
> the Pertronix made for the TR6 probably won't fit my distributor baseplate.
>
> Both Pertronix people thought the inside of the distributor caps (TR6 and
> Austin-Healey 3000) must be similar enough (because many AH people do use the
> TR6 cap) so that the Pertronix for the Austin-Healey baseplate would work with
> either cap.
>
> So I've ordered the Moss #222-415 Pertronix as my spare for my trip to
> Conclave.
>
> -Dave Murphy
>
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 06:21:28 2013
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	<51B70F96.8020603@comcast.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 22:11:07 +1000
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thats weird Bob.
My new spare points are at the same orientation as my old ones...
< ducks beer cans >
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 11/06/2013, at 9:52 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Side note:  I recently bought a second Pertronix as a spare.  My original
Ignitor--fitted many years ago--was part# LU162P12, the newer one is
LU162P12A.  I fit both units with spade connectors to allow easi(er) and
quick(er) installation, and when doing so noticed the later unit had a
different baseplate configuration.  It appears the Pertronix 'pickup' sits
'earlier' in the firing sequence; e.g. if the old unit fit at 6 o'clock in the
distributor, the new one fits at 8 o'clock (the distrbutor cam turns
counterclockwise).  I expect if I have to fit the spare in the field my timing
will be grossly advanced.  I figured I could change the timing to get a decent
idle, then drive carefully to see if there's any knock and retard from there
(or advance until I get knock then retard).  I don't want to carry my advance
meter at all times, but if necessary I'd buy one--most decent parts houses and
Sears--should have them, and set the timing correctly.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 6/10/2013 10:59 PM, Dave Murphy wrote:
>> Dear List,
>>
>> Thanks for all those who responded to my question!
>>
>> I did speak to two people at Pertronix and they both said that the correct
>> unit for my car is the one made for Austin-Healeys (Moss #222-415 ) as the
>> unit must match the Austin-Healey baseplate inside the distributor. They
said
>> the Pertronix made for the TR6 probably won't fit my distributor
baseplate.
>>
>> Both Pertronix people thought the inside of the distributor caps (TR6 and
>> Austin-Healey 3000) must be similar enough (because many AH people do use
the
>> TR6 cap) so that the Pertronix for the Austin-Healey baseplate would work
with
>> either cap.
>>
>> So I've ordered the Moss #222-415 Pertronix as my spare for my trip to
>> Conclave.
>>
>> -Dave Murphy
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 06:36:36 2013
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 8:25:22 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bet I can change my spare Pertronix faster than you can change your points:)

But I will admit that all that fiddling to get the Pertronix set correctly is a real treat, especially in low light.:)


---- Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Thats weird Bob.
My new spare points are at the same orientation as my old ones...
< ducks beer cans >
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 11/06/2013, at 9:52 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Side note:  I recently bought a second Pertronix as a spare.  My original
Ignitor--fitted many years ago--was part# LU162P12, the newer one is
LU162P12A.  I fit both units with spade connectors to allow easi(er) and
quick(er) installation, and when doing so noticed the later unit had a
different baseplate configuration.  It appears the Pertronix 'pickup' sits
'earlier' in the firing sequence; e.g. if the old unit fit at 6 o'clock in the
distributor, the new one fits at 8 o'clock (the distrbutor cam turns
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 10:48:00 2013
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 11:41:41 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 6/11/2013 7:11 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
> Thats weird Bob.
> My new spare points are at the same orientation as my old ones...
> < ducks beer cans >
> Chris  >>
'Tain't  "weird", Chris.  Er, as long as beer cans are EMPTY ! ! !    LOL

Oh wait, you're talking about points ! ? !

But I am WITH you <G> ! !  One of the 'spares' I carry (In a gallon 
zip lock bag) is a fully built
dizzy with USED points and base plate.  2 set screws out, dizzy out, 
new dizzy in, 2 set screws,
and motor on <G> ! !

Before you gents get shorts all knotted up from USED (points),  hear 
me out plz.  Part of my
'wake-up-Hortense' <G> IF I going on some long trips (500 round-trip 
miles) IS to check dwell,
timing and how much meat is actually on the points and condition of 
surfaces.  IF all is well (which
is normally the case) bump starter around rotor at # 1 and OUT comes 
the dizzy AS IE and into
zip lock bag.  Put a set of points in the 'spare dizzy', install it 
and check timing & dwell which are
usually normal <G> !  Then if I DO break down, in out & in for a KNOWN 
WORKING dizzy as off
we go.

Side benefit is I also have said unit to fix somebody's elses car ! !  
IIRC it was season of '89
that I 'fixed' half-a-dozen cars.  That dizzy had more miles on it 
than Hortense did ! !
USPS/UPS/FedEx included ! !  LOL  Also, IIRC 'fixed' one Petronix 
equipped car ! ! !
LMAO at that one.  I told the chap - very long time pal - he owed me a 
bunch of beers and that
he WOULD see a very big gloating smile with each beer ! ! !

But the point is that dizzy was a KNOWN, WORKING unit.

Ed
'63 BJ 7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates        AH BJ 7    )
Please visit MY site at:                    www.justbrits.com

PS:  After a few trips I started carrying a 4 cyl for MGBs.
PPS:  MORE ducking for empty beer cans (PLZ as I crush & sell at 
recycle place <VBG>) ! !
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 12:14:27 2013
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 20:01:49 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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	<51B75345.1030309@justbrits.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

One step further: carry a spare distributor with a Petronix already 
fitted. Plenty of old or second hand Petronic units around from old 
Landrovers, Triumphs, Minis, or any old British heap as long as it has a 
D23/5.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 11-6-2013 18:41, " Just Brits " Shop schreef:
> << On 6/11/2013 7:11 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
>> Thats weird Bob.
>> My new spare points are at the same orientation as my old ones...
>> < ducks beer cans >
>> Chris  >>
> 'Tain't  "weird", Chris.  Er, as long as beer cans are EMPTY ! ! !    LOL
>
> Oh wait, you're talking about points ! ? !
>
> But I am WITH you <G> ! !  One of the 'spares' I carry (In a gallon
> zip lock bag) is a fully built
> dizzy with USED points and base plate.  2 set screws out, dizzy out,
> new dizzy in, 2 set screws,
> and motor on <G> ! !
>
> Before you gents get shorts all knotted up from USED (points),  hear
> me out plz.  Part of my
> 'wake-up-Hortense' <G> IF I going on some long trips (500 round-trip
> miles) IS to check dwell,
> timing and how much meat is actually on the points and condition of
> surfaces.  IF all is well (which
> is normally the case) bump starter around rotor at # 1 and OUT comes
> the dizzy AS IE and into
> zip lock bag.  Put a set of points in the 'spare dizzy', install it
> and check timing & dwell which are
> usually normal <G> !  Then if I DO break down, in out & in for a KNOWN
> WORKING dizzy as off
> we go.
>
> Side benefit is I also have said unit to fix somebody's elses car ! !
> IIRC it was season of '89
> that I 'fixed' half-a-dozen cars.  That dizzy had more miles on it
> than Hortense did ! !
> USPS/UPS/FedEx included ! !  LOL  Also, IIRC 'fixed' one Petronix
> equipped car ! ! !
> LMAO at that one.  I told the chap - very long time pal - he owed me a
> bunch of beers and that
> he WOULD see a very big gloating smile with each beer ! ! !
>
> But the point is that dizzy was a KNOWN, WORKING unit.
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ 7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates        AH BJ 7    )
> Please visit MY site at:                    www.justbrits.com
>
> PS:  After a few trips I started carrying a 4 cyl for MGBs.
> PPS:  MORE ducking for empty beer cans (PLZ as I crush & sell at
> recycle place <VBG>) ! !
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6402 - datum van uitgifte: 06/11/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 13:31:35 2013
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From: "Niels Bengaard" <bengaard@850r.dk>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 21:25:05 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] pictures from Danish meeting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi

I have put up a some pictures from a Danish meeting.
We were some Healeys and other British cars that met at a museum and drove
there together.

http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Kastellet%202013/index.html 

Greetings Niels
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 13:37:05 2013
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 15:31:38 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I would think it would be easier to just slip the old Per out and the new one in rather than removing and replacing the entire dist.

tom

---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: 

=============
One step further: carry a spare distributor with a Petronix already 
fitted. Plenty of old or second hand Petronic units around from old 
Landrovers, Triumphs, Minis, or any old British heap as long as it has a 
D23/5.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 11-6-2013 18:41, " Just Brits " Shop schreef:
> << On 6/11/2013 7:11 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
>> Thats weird Bob.
>> My new spare points are at the same orientation as my old ones...
>> < ducks beer cans >
>> Chris  >>
> 'Tain't  "weird", Chris.  Er, as long as beer cans are EMPTY ! ! !    LOL
>
> Oh wait, you're talking about points ! ? !
>
> But I am WITH you <G> ! !  One of the 'spares' I carry (In a gallon
> zip lock bag) is a fully built
> dizzy with USED points and base plate.  2 set screws out, dizzy out,
> new dizzy in, 2 set screws,
> and motor on <G> ! !
>
> Before you gents get shorts all knotted up from USED (points),  hear
> me out plz.  Part of my
> 'wake-up-Hortense' <G> IF I going on some long trips (500 round-trip
> miles) IS to check dwell,
> timing and how much meat is actually on the points and condition of
> surfaces.  IF all is well (which
> is normally the case) bump starter around rotor at # 1 and OUT comes
> the dizzy AS IE and into
> zip lock bag.  Put a set of points in the 'spare dizzy', install it
> and check timing & dwell which are
> usually normal <G> !  Then if I DO break down, in out & in for a KNOWN
> WORKING dizzy as off
> we go.
>
> Side benefit is I also have said unit to fix somebody's elses car ! !
> IIRC it was season of '89
> that I 'fixed' half-a-dozen cars.  That dizzy had more miles on it
> than Hortense did ! !
> USPS/UPS/FedEx included ! !  LOL  Also, IIRC 'fixed' one Petronix
> equipped car ! ! !
> LMAO at that one.  I told the chap - very long time pal - he owed me a
> bunch of beers and that
> he WOULD see a very big gloating smile with each beer ! ! !
>
> But the point is that dizzy was a KNOWN, WORKING unit.
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ 7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates        AH BJ 7    )
> Please visit MY site at:                    www.justbrits.com
>
> PS:  After a few trips I started carrying a 4 cyl for MGBs.
> PPS:  MORE ducking for empty beer cans (PLZ as I crush & sell at
> recycle place <VBG>) ! !
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6402 - datum van uitgifte: 06/11/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 14:01:53 2013
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References: <51B7660D.7070604@chello.nl>
	<20130611153139.9AZOB.66515.root@pamxwww05-z01>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 12:50:05 -0700
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6
 Distributor Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I plan to keep my old dizzy in the boot. I bought a new pentronix unit for
the car.Doe snot look OEM, but it's not a concour (sic) car
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Tue, Jun 11, 2013 at 12:31 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> I would think it would be easier to just slip the old Per out and the new
> one in rather than removing and replacing the entire dist.
>
> tom
>
> ---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
> =============
> One step further: carry a spare distributor with a Petronix already
> fitted. Plenty of old or second hand Petronic units around from old
> Landrovers, Triumphs, Minis, or any old British heap as long as it has a
> D23/5.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 11-6-2013 18:41, " Just Brits " Shop schreef:
> > << On 6/11/2013 7:11 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
> >> Thats weird Bob.
> >> My new spare points are at the same orientation as my old ones...
> >> < ducks beer cans >
> >> Chris  >>
> > 'Tain't  "weird", Chris.  Er, as long as beer cans are EMPTY ! ! !    LOL
> >
> > Oh wait, you're talking about points ! ? !
> >
> > But I am WITH you <G> ! !  One of the 'spares' I carry (In a gallon
> > zip lock bag) is a fully built
> > dizzy with USED points and base plate.  2 set screws out, dizzy out,
> > new dizzy in, 2 set screws,
> > and motor on <G> ! !
> >
> > Before you gents get shorts all knotted up from USED (points),  hear
> > me out plz.  Part of my
> > 'wake-up-Hortense' <G> IF I going on some long trips (500 round-trip
> > miles) IS to check dwell,
> > timing and how much meat is actually on the points and condition of
> > surfaces.  IF all is well (which
> > is normally the case) bump starter around rotor at # 1 and OUT comes
> > the dizzy AS IE and into
> > zip lock bag.  Put a set of points in the 'spare dizzy', install it
> > and check timing & dwell which are
> > usually normal <G> !  Then if I DO break down, in out & in for a KNOWN
> > WORKING dizzy as off
> > we go.
> >
> > Side benefit is I also have said unit to fix somebody's elses car ! !
> > IIRC it was season of '89
> > that I 'fixed' half-a-dozen cars.  That dizzy had more miles on it
> > than Hortense did ! !
> > USPS/UPS/FedEx included ! !  LOL  Also, IIRC 'fixed' one Petronix
> > equipped car ! ! !
> > LMAO at that one.  I told the chap - very long time pal - he owed me a
> > bunch of beers and that
> > he WOULD see a very big gloating smile with each beer ! ! !
> >
> > But the point is that dizzy was a KNOWN, WORKING unit.
> >
> > Ed
> > '63 BJ 7 (Hortense THE Healey wearing STD IL plates        AH BJ 7    )
> > Please visit MY site at:                    www.justbrits.com
> >
> > PS:  After a few trips I started carrying a 4 cyl for MGBs.
> > PPS:  MORE ducking for empty beer cans (PLZ as I crush & sell at
> > recycle place <VBG>) ! !
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> > Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6402 - datum van uitgifte:
> 06/11/13
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Dorpsstraat 183
> 2995XG Heerjansdam
> T: 078-677 1233
> E: coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
> Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
> Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
> www.jensenholland.nl
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 22:33:23 2013
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 21:26:59 -0700
	FILETIME=[1500FC00:01CE6725]
Subject: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry to bother the group with stuff that has been asked a dozen times but I
got a brain fart. I did this two years ago. The books say 18 pints of
antifreeze with out heater. I have a BJ8 with heater. That comes out to more
than 2 gallons of coolant.  How much coolant is needed with a heater? Are
there any preferences between Prestone premixed and  the type diluted 50/50?
Thanks
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 22:47:21 2013
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 21:41:41 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <COL127-W4387ED55AF6AD18067C6F8A4860@phx.gbl>
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	D/8sOg0mv0Mkw==
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If your cooling system is fully drained you'll need about 2.5 (US) gallons of coolant.  I pour a gallon of (undiluted) 
Prestone in then add distilled water until full, then run up to temp and add more if necessary (or let the radiator 
'bleed' any excess).  I've also been adding Water Wetter for years, but may stop doing that given recent negative info.  
IMO, premixed is a rip-off--I carry water for emergencies.

I just drained my BJ8 after about 25K miles and the coolant was pristine.

Bob

On 6/11/2013 9:26 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> Sorry to bother the group with stuff that has been asked a dozen times but I
> got a brain fart. I did this two years ago. The books say 18 pints of
> antifreeze with out heater. I have a BJ8 with heater. That comes out to more
> than 2 gallons of coolant.  How much coolant is needed with a heater? Are
> there any preferences between Prestone premixed and  the type diluted 50/50?
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 22:58:32 2013
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References: <COL127-W4387ED55AF6AD18067C6F8A4860@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 21:52:48 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Unless you are doing a fresh rebuild, you will need less than 2.5 gallons.
You can never get all the coolant out.
Personally I don't like Prestone, but it is probably fine.
Here is an old professional technician's trick.  Take a fresh bottle of
full strength antifreeze and an empty antifreeze bottle.  Make a mark on
the bottle where the level of the antifreeze is, transfer that mark to the
empty bottle.  Pour 1/2 into the empty bottle, and again mark both of those
levels.  Fill both bottles with water to the upper mark.  You now have 2
gallons of 50/50 mix for less than 2 bottles of 50/50 cost.  Fill your
system and what ever is left over can be used to top up the system.
when you run out, go buy another bottle of full strength, pour to the line
and then fill with water to the second line.
Rick



On Tue, Jun 11, 2013 at 9:26 PM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>wrote:

> Sorry to bother the group with stuff that has been asked a dozen times but
> I
> got a brain fart. I did this two years ago. The books say 18 pints of
> antifreeze with out heater. I have a BJ8 with heater. That comes out to
> more
> than 2 gallons of coolant.  How much coolant is needed with a heater? Are
> there any preferences between Prestone premixed and  the type diluted
> 50/50?
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 01:02:29 2013
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	<CACOF-TpVQEiEFzEZj5dNr_p06drvYqtPtVWcm8nomOtN7NduJg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:56:42 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Is this getting all a bit complicated?

Buy some unmixed ant-freeze and mix it with water, anywhere from 30% to 50%
antifreeze will do unless you plan on driving in minus 20 degree
temperatures. Pour it in the radiator until the level is about an inch
below the neck and run the engine. Top up a little if required

Derek


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 5:52 AM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>wrote:

> Unless you are doing a fresh rebuild, you will need less than 2.5 gallons.
> You can never get all the coolant out.
> Personally I don't like Prestone, but it is probably fine.
> Here is an old professional technician's trick.  Take a fresh bottle of
> full strength antifreeze and an empty antifreeze bottle.  Make a mark on
> the bottle where the level of the antifreeze is, transfer that mark to the
> empty bottle.  Pour 1/2 into the empty bottle, and again mark both of those
> levels.  Fill both bottles with water to the upper mark.  You now have 2
> gallons of 50/50 mix for less than 2 bottles of 50/50 cost.  Fill your
> system and what ever is left over can be used to top up the system.
> when you run out, go buy another bottle of full strength, pour to the line
> and then fill with water to the second line.
> Rick
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 11, 2013 at 9:26 PM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com
> >wrote:
>
> > Sorry to bother the group with stuff that has been asked a dozen times
> but
> > I
> > got a brain fart. I did this two years ago. The books say 18 pints of
> > antifreeze with out heater. I have a BJ8 with heater. That comes out to
> > more
> > than 2 gallons of coolant.  How much coolant is needed with a heater? Are
> > there any preferences between Prestone premixed and  the type diluted
> > 50/50?
> > Thanks
> > Rich Kahn
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 01:33:43 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 09:28:03 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <COL127-W4387ED55AF6AD18067C6F8A4860@phx.gbl>
	<CACOF-TpVQEiEFzEZj5dNr_p06drvYqtPtVWcm8nomOtN7NduJg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAAh8etmcKJyptrJEXnbdWdjGs=JxRxPU1G7TmPD2Dxg429yO0w@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It is not as simple as that. There is also the question of inorganic and 
organic anti corrosion additives. In Europe that means that green 
coolant has organic and red/purple coolant has inorganic additives. For 
modern cars you can use the red/purple coolant or the green coolant. You 
cannot mix the two. For older (ca. pre 1990) cars you  should only use 
the green coolant with the organic additives. The red/purple stuff may 
be harmful for the type of seals and gaskets used in older cars.
Why worry about the price of proper coolant? It is cheap and it will 
last at least for two to three years. Anti-freeze has to be mixed with 
demineralized/distilled water and in the end it will cost as much as 
proper coolant. It is also often unknown wat kind of other additives are 
in the anti-freeze, organic or inorganic.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 12-6-2013 8:56, Derek Job schreef:
> Is this getting all a bit complicated?
>
> Buy some unmixed ant-freeze and mix it with water, anywhere from 30% to 50%
> antifreeze will do unless you plan on driving in minus 20 degree
> temperatures. Pour it in the radiator until the level is about an inch
> below the neck and run the engine. Top up a little if required
>
> Derek
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 5:52 AM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>wrote:
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 03:08:02 2013
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	<CACOF-TpVQEiEFzEZj5dNr_p06drvYqtPtVWcm8nomOtN7NduJg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAAh8etmcKJyptrJEXnbdWdjGs=JxRxPU1G7TmPD2Dxg429yO0w@mail.gmail.com>
	<51B82303.4090504@chello.nl>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 19:02:15 +1000
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just move to Sydney Australia and you won't need antifreeze in your Healey...
;-)
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 12/06/2013, at 5:28 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> It is not as simple as that. There is also the question of inorganic and
organic anti corrosion additives. In Europe that means that green coolant has
organic and red/purple coolant has inorganic additives. For modern cars you
can use the red/purple coolant or the green coolant. You cannot mix the two.
For older (ca. pre 1990) cars you  should only use the green coolant with the
organic additives. The red/purple stuff may be harmful for the type of seals
and gaskets used in older cars.
> Why worry about the price of proper coolant? It is cheap and it will last at
least for two to three years. Anti-freeze has to be mixed with
demineralized/distilled water and in the end it will cost as much as proper
coolant. It is also often unknown wat kind of other additives are in the
anti-freeze, organic or inorganic.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 12-6-2013 8:56, Derek Job schreef:
>> Is this getting all a bit complicated?
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 11:17:56 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
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To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
References: <COL127-W4387ED55AF6AD18067C6F8A4860@phx.gbl>
	<CACOF-TpVQEiEFzEZj5dNr_p06drvYqtPtVWcm8nomOtN7NduJg@mail.gmail.com>
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Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You would need coolant though. Water only will eventually destroy the 
cooling system. Tap water will cause mineral deposits and in the end 
blockages, demineralized/distilled water will cause corrosion and also 
in the end blockages. Use the proper coolant (from new or rebuilt) and 
you will never have any such issues.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 12-6-2013 11:02, Chris Dimmock schreef:
> Just move to Sydney Australia and you won't need antifreeze in your Healey...
> ;-)
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 12/06/2013, at 5:28 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> It is not as simple as that. There is also the question of inorganic and organic anti corrosion additives. In Europe that means that green coolant has organic and red/purple coolant has inorganic additives. For modern cars you can use the red/purple coolant or the green coolant. You cannot mix the two. For older (ca. pre 1990) cars you  should only use the green coolant with the organic additives. The red/purple stuff may be harmful for the type of seals and gaskets used in older cars.
>> Why worry about the price of proper coolant? It is cheap and it will last at least for two to three years. Anti-freeze has to be mixed with demineralized/distilled water and in the end it will cost as much as proper coolant. It is also often unknown wat kind of other additives are in the anti-freeze, organic or inorganic.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>>
>> Op 12-6-2013 8:56, Derek Job schreef:
>>> Is this getting all a bit complicated?
>>>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6403 - datum van uitgifte: 06/11/13
>
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 03:26:12 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 11:20:24 +0200
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] Antifreeze 
Thread-Index: Ac5nThHgQ3eeeHkMR7mJPsG+FnqSQg==
References: <COL127-W4387ED55AF6AD18067C6F8A4860@phx.gbl>
	<51B7FC05.3060306@comcast.net>
From: "Thomas Willig" <twillig@ruda.de>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My advice-learned the hard way : Do not use distilled/demineralised water in
your cooling system.  This stuff is very aggressive and together with cast
iron creates the ideal climate for corrosion. I just had to flush my BN2
engine after running it for one year after a complete rebuild. I used a
mixture of antifreeze and demin water. You will not believe the amount of rust
that came out of this  engine after such a short time. I will now use tap
water  and normal antifreeze. That worked well in the "old" days and
everything else seems to me as "over-engineering".


Cheers


Thomas Willig


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 12. Juni 2013 06:42
An: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze

If your cooling system is fully drained you'll need about 2.5 (US) gallons of
coolant.  I pour a gallon of (undiluted) Prestone in then add distilled water
until full, then run up to temp and add more if necessary (or let the radiator
'bleed' any excess).  I've also been adding Water Wetter for years, but may
stop doing that given recent negative info.
IMO, premixed is a rip-off--I carry water for emergencies.

I just drained my BJ8 after about 25K miles and the coolant was pristine.

Bob

On 6/11/2013 9:26 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> Sorry to bother the group with stuff that has been asked a dozen times
> but I got a brain fart. I did this two years ago. The books say 18
> pints of antifreeze with out heater. I have a BJ8 with heater. That
> comes out to more than 2 gallons of coolant.  How much coolant is
> needed with a heater? Are there any preferences between Prestone premixed
and  the type diluted 50/50?
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
>
>


--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 03:51:01 2013
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	<51B7FC05.3060306@comcast.net>
	<4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A116013C6301@dw01.ruda.local>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 10:44:57 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Thomas Willig <twillig@ruda.de>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thomas,

You are correct. There is far too much time spent on worrying about all
kinds of  little things that, given the useage and maintenance levels that
our cars are now subjected to, just don't make a difference in the real
world. You'll be dead before there is any noticeable problem.

Or you can buy modern 'coolant' which seems to cost as much as oil these
days.


Derek


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 10:20 AM, Thomas Willig <twillig@ruda.de> wrote:

> My advice-learned the hard way : Do not use distilled/demineralised water
> in
> your cooling system.  This stuff is very aggressive and together with cast
> iron creates the ideal climate for corrosion. I just had to flush my BN2
> engine after running it for one year after a complete rebuild. I used a
> mixture of antifreeze and demin water. You will not believe the amount of
> rust
> that came out of this  engine after such a short time. I will now use tap
> water  and normal antifreeze. That worked well in the "old" days and
> everything else seems to me as "over-engineering".
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Thomas Willig
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net]
> Gesendet: Mittwoch, 12. Juni 2013 06:42
> An: healeys@autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
>
> If your cooling system is fully drained you'll need about 2.5 (US) gallons
> of
> coolant.  I pour a gallon of (undiluted) Prestone in then add distilled
> water
> until full, then run up to temp and add more if necessary (or let the
> radiator
> 'bleed' any excess).  I've also been adding Water Wetter for years, but may
> stop doing that given recent negative info.
> IMO, premixed is a rip-off--I carry water for emergencies.
>
> I just drained my BJ8 after about 25K miles and the coolant was pristine.
>
> Bob
>
> On 6/11/2013 9:26 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> > Sorry to bother the group with stuff that has been asked a dozen times
> > but I got a brain fart. I did this two years ago. The books say 18
> > pints of antifreeze with out heater. I have a BJ8 with heater. That
> > comes out to more than 2 gallons of coolant.  How much coolant is
> > needed with a heater? Are there any preferences between Prestone premixed
> and  the type diluted 50/50?
> > Thanks
> > Rich Kahn
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 04:06:10 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 11:56:06 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <COL127-W4387ED55AF6AD18067C6F8A4860@phx.gbl>
	<51B7FC05.3060306@comcast.net>
	<4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A116013C6301@dw01.ruda.local>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Use proper coolant, the green stuff. It has the inhibitors/additives 
already mixed in together with the antifreeze. Using tap water in a mix 
will cause some deposits that may react.
You do have to replace the coolant periodically, say every three years. 
When doing so always rinse your engine with clean water, tap water will 
do!!, add a can of radiator cleaner, mostly caustic soda, let the engine 
run for a while, drain, rinse thoroughly, drain and refill with coolant.
Whatever you have used in the past, you will be amazed about the amount 
of sediment that will come out. Probably most of it are old deposits 
that have dissolved/come loose, even if you have had your engine 
rebuilt. It is nigh impossible to clean out all deposits during a rebuild.
When you start of with a brand new engine, replacing the coolant without 
flushing the engine usually suffices. Ever saw a modern, well maintained 
car with deposits? I sure never did.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 12-6-2013 11:20, Thomas Willig schreef:
> My advice-learned the hard way : Do not use distilled/demineralised water in
> your cooling system.  This stuff is very aggressive and together with cast
> iron creates the ideal climate for corrosion. I just had to flush my BN2
> engine after running it for one year after a complete rebuild. I used a
> mixture of antifreeze and demin water. You will not believe the amount of rust
> that came out of this  engine after such a short time. I will now use tap
> water  and normal antifreeze. That worked well in the "old" days and
> everything else seems to me as "over-engineering".
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Thomas Willig
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 06:11:18 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 8:05:33 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>,  Richard Kahn
	<tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just changed the water pump in my BJ8 so I drained all I could drain before pulling it.  Took a little over 2 gallons to fill it---so about 1/2 gallon didn't drain.  I bought full strength AF and diluted it with distilled water before adding it in the car.

tom
---- Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Unless you are doing a fresh rebuild, you will need less than 2.5 gallons.
You can never get all the coolant out.
Personally I don't like Prestone, but it is probably fine.
Here is an old professional technician's trick.  Take a fresh bottle of
full strength antifreeze and an empty antifreeze bottle.  Make a mark on
the bottle where the level of the antifreeze is, transfer that mark to the
empty bottle.  Pour 1/2 into the empty bottle, and again mark both of those
levels.  Fill both bottles with water to the upper mark.  You now have 2
gallons of 50/50 mix for less than 2 bottles of 50/50 cost.  Fill your
system and what ever is left over can be used to top up the system.
when you run out, go buy another bottle of full strength, pour to the line
and then fill with water to the second line.
Rick



On Tue, Jun 11, 2013 at 9:26 PM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>wrote:

> Sorry to bother the group with stuff that has been asked a dozen times but
> I
> got a brain fart. I did this two years ago. The books say 18 pints of
> antifreeze with out heater. I have a BJ8 with heater. That comes out to
> more
> than 2 gallons of coolant.  How much coolant is needed with a heater? Are
> there any preferences between Prestone premixed and  the type diluted
> 50/50?
> Thanks
> Rich Kahn
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 06:54:49 2013
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 05:43:41 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5naneTc4Mdnq0eRPKUgr6gkX/dzQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6  cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom Felts wrote: 

>>>
I would think it would be easier to just slip the old Per out and the new
one in rather than removing and replacing the entire dist.
<<<



If you have a spare distributor, I'd advocate setting it up with points and
condenser, setting the timing and driving the car with it long enough to
verify the condenser is good.

I have an index mark between the base plates of my distributors and the
engine block so they can be removed and replaced without disturbing the
timing. The wires are color coded and I have a wiring diagram on board.

 

It's easy to fry a pertronix swapping it out on the road (I've done it) and
there's always the chance that what fried the original will also fry the
backup - hence the points distributor.

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 07:10:26 2013
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 05:59:35 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
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I recently had my radiator overhauled due to increased running temperatures
due to rust clogging after a couple of years of running purified water and
water-wetter.

 

Never had a problem the previous 8 years running Prestone and water. Tech
support at Royal Purple told me most tap water or filtered drinking water is
less corrosive than distilled or purified drinking water and that 20%
coolant is sufficient for where I live in SoCal.

 

Evidently the important thing is to not allow your coolant pH to get below
8.3. 9.5 - 10.0 is better. 

 

Amazon sells pH testing paper:

http://tinyurl.com/nzlg2pn

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 07:25:44 2013
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	Wed, 12 Jun 2013 08:20:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Mike Garvey" <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: "'Oudesluys'" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <COL127-W4387ED55AF6AD18067C6F8A4860@phx.gbl>
	<51B7FC05.3060306@comcast.net>
	<4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A116013C6301@dw01.ruda.local>
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 09:20:01 -0400
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Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

As a reminder, ethylene glycol based antifreeze not only tastes good (sweet)
to pets and children, it is very toxic.  I am unsure of approved disposal
procedures, but don't leave open containers (or puddles on the driveway).
Mike 
Michael Garvey
1967 BJ8/38046
Swampscott, MA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 5:56 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze

Use proper coolant, the green stuff. It has the inhibitors/additives already
mixed in together with the antifreeze. Using tap water in a mix will cause
some deposits that may react.
You do have to replace the coolant periodically, say every three years. 
When doing so always rinse your engine with clean water, tap water will
do!!, add a can of radiator cleaner, mostly caustic soda, let the engine run
for a while, drain, rinse thoroughly, drain and refill with coolant.
Whatever you have used in the past, you will be amazed about the amount of
sediment that will come out. Probably most of it are old deposits that have
dissolved/come loose, even if you have had your engine rebuilt. It is nigh
impossible to clean out all deposits during a rebuild.
When you start of with a brand new engine, replacing the coolant without
flushing the engine usually suffices. Ever saw a modern, well maintained car
with deposits? I sure never did.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 12-6-2013 11:20, Thomas Willig schreef:
> My advice-learned the hard way : Do not use distilled/demineralised 
> water in your cooling system.  This stuff is very aggressive and 
> together with cast iron creates the ideal climate for corrosion. I 
> just had to flush my BN2 engine after running it for one year after a 
> complete rebuild. I used a mixture of antifreeze and demin water. You 
> will not believe the amount of rust that came out of this  engine 
> after such a short time. I will now use tap water  and normal 
> antifreeze. That worked well in the "old" days and everything else seems
to me as "over-engineering".
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Thomas Willig
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 07:40:34 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 06:31:37 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
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aka litmus paper:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/220816819830?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar


On 6/12/2013 5:59 AM, Steve Gerow wrote:
> I recently had my radiator overhauled due to increased running temperatures
> due to rust clogging after a couple of years of running purified water and
> water-wetter.
>
>   
>
> Never had a problem the previous 8 years running Prestone and water. Tech
> support at Royal Purple told me most tap water or filtered drinking water is
> less corrosive than distilled or purified drinking water and that 20%
> coolant is sufficient for where I live in SoCal.
>
>   
>
> Evidently the important thing is to not allow your coolant pH to get below
> 8.3. 9.5 - 10.0 is better.
>
>   
>
> Amazon sells pH testing paper:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/nzlg2pn
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 08:11:34 2013
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References: <000501ce676c$b100ed80$1302c880$@com>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 00:00:51 +1000
To: Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just to clarify, the issue is the purified water, which can have a Ph of as
low as 6 or 7, not the waterwetter, which has a Ph of 8.6

I've been running tap water and Redline waterwetter in my BJ8 for the past 15
years. No issues. Changed it a few times, and my block & head were
redistripped when the engine was built.

>From the redline website....

"Red Line WaterWetterB. is designed to provide improved metal wetting and
excellent corrosion inhibition when added to plain water or a glycol coolant.
..... Red Line WaterWetterB. will provide the proper corrosion inhibition for
all common cooling system metals, including aluminum, cast iron, steel,
copper, brass, and lead."
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf

Best
Chris
Sent from my iPhone

On 12/06/2013, at 10:59 PM, "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com> wrote:

> I recently had my radiator overhauled due to increased running temperatures
> due to rust clogging after a couple of years of running purified water and
> water-wetter.
>
> Never had a problem the previous 8 years running Prestone and water. Tech
> support at Royal Purple told me most tap water or filtered drinking water
is
> less corrosive than distilled or purified drinking water and that 20%
> coolant is sufficient for where I live in SoCal.
>
> Evidently the important thing is to not allow your coolant pH to get below
> 8.3. 9.5 - 10.0 is better.
>
> Amazon sells pH testing paper:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/nzlg2pn
>
> Steve Gerow
>
> Altadena, CA, USA
>
> BN6
> ______________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 11:16:57 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

hi

what is the best lube for wire wheel splines?  I am thinking about using "permatex  anti seize"  silver.......................this appears to be what the previous owner used  and my hub splines are perfect.............................of course the BJ8 has only 11,000  miles


Mitch

1959 BN4
1966 BJ8
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 11:20:39 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 10:15:11 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: caddi5@comcast.net
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Mitch,

Anti seize compound.... not grease

Curt


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 10:08 AM, <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:

> hi
>
> what is the best lube for wire wheel splines?  I am thinking about using
> "permatex  anti seize"  silver.......................this appears to be
> what the previous owner used  and my hub splines are
> perfect.............................of course the BJ8 has only 11,000  miles
>
>
> Mitch
>
> 1959 BN4
> 1966 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 11:47:20 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 13:35:06 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: caddi5@comcast.net, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That is exactly what I use.

tom

---- caddi5@comcast.net wrote: 

=============
hi

what is the best lube for wire wheel splines?  I am thinking about using "permatex  anti seize"  silver.......................this appears to be what the previous owner used  and my hub splines are perfect.............................of course the BJ8 has only 11,000  miles


Mitch

1959 BN4
1966 BJ8
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 12:02:07 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 17:50:57 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
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Why not grease? 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


Hi Mitch, 

Anti seize compound.... not grease 

Curt 


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 10:08 AM, <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote: 

> hi 
> 
> what is the best lube for wire wheel splines? I am thinking about using 
> "permatex anti seize" silver.......................this appears to be 
> what the previous owner used and my hub splines are 
> perfect.............................of course the BJ8 has only 11,000 miles 
> 
> 
> Mitch 
> 
> 1959 BN4 
> 1966 BJ8 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 12:04:39 2013
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?B?Q2hyaXMgRGltbW9jaw==?= <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 09:57:17 -0800
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	<C9A57B72-FDEF-479C-B475-99851F28B9BF@gmail.com>
Cc: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Antifreeze?=
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Chris,
You must be changing your coolant often enough for the pH to not get too low.

I experienced more corrosion in the last couple of years with water wetter and purified water compared to the previous 8 years with coolant/purified water which was essentially nil. There were enough flakes of rust clogging the radiator tubes to make the car run noticeably hotter.

While the rad was out for service, I did a back flush of the block with water in through the lower water pump hose attachment and put a woman's stocking on the upper hose fitting as a filter. 2 or 3 tablespoons of crud showed up in the stocking along with some more rust bits.

There's a lot of info online in various hotrod forums on how water wetter is no longer being developed; it can result in a peanut-butter-like goo in the coolant; the chemist who developed it no longer works for Redline, etc.

These same folks prefer Royal Purple Ice instead of water wetter because it is evidently a more modern formulation. I was all set to add that to my coolant except it would have required 2 bottles at $15 each so I said the hell with that and just went to the coolant/tap water mix with an Australian Tefba coolant filter for good measure.


-- 
Steve


Chris Dimmock wrote:
>  
>  
>  I've been running tap water and Redline waterwetter in my BJ8 for the past
>  15 years. No issues. Changed it a few times, and my block & head were
>  redistripped when the engine was built.
>  
>  
>  From the redline website....
>  
>  
>  "Red Line WaterWetter. is designed to provide improved metal wetting and
>  excellent corrosion inhibition when added to plain water or a glycol
>  coolant.
>  ..... Red Line WaterWetter. will provide the proper corrosion inhibition
>  for all common cooling system metals, including aluminum, cast iron, steel,
>  copper, brass, and lead."
>  [LINK:
>  http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf]
>  http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 12:18:01 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 19:05:03 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Bring a Trailer
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Any of you guys having a problem with the BaT site?

Google is blocking my access saying the site is harmful and has some virus
problems including infecting Throttleyard.com.

Seems weird, just happened today.

Derek
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 12:18:41 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 19:05:54 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A moly based grease is best.

Derek.


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 6:50 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Why not grease?
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> Hi Mitch,
>
> Anti seize compound.... not grease
>
> Curt
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 10:08 AM, <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > hi
> >
> > what is the best lube for wire wheel splines? I am thinking about using
> > "permatex anti seize" silver.......................this appears to be
> > what the previous owner used and my hub splines are
> > perfect.............................of course the BJ8 has only 11,000
> miles
> >
> >
> > Mitch
> >
> > 1959 BN4
> > 1966 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 12:19:14 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 19:07:55 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I can't really see the point of water wetter. All it will do is temporarily
mask underlying problems that you would otherwise become aware of.

Derek


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 6:57 PM, Steve B. Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>wrote:

> Chris,
> You must be changing your coolant often enough for the pH to not get too
> low.
>
> I experienced more corrosion in the last couple of years with water wetter
> and purified water compared to the previous 8 years with coolant/purified
> water which was essentially nil. There were enough flakes of rust clogging
> the radiator tubes to make the car run noticeably hotter.
>
> While the rad was out for service, I did a back flush of the block with
> water in through the lower water pump hose attachment and put a woman's
> stocking on the upper hose fitting as a filter. 2 or 3 tablespoons of crud
> showed up in the stocking along with some more rust bits.
>
> There's a lot of info online in various hotrod forums on how water wetter
> is no longer being developed; it can result in a peanut-butter-like goo in
> the coolant; the chemist who developed it no longer works for Redline, etc.
>
> These same folks prefer Royal Purple Ice instead of water wetter because
> it is evidently a more modern formulation. I was all set to add that to my
> coolant except it would have required 2 bottles at $15 each so I said the
> hell with that and just went to the coolant/tap water mix with an
> Australian Tefba coolant filter for good measure.
>
>
> --
> Steve
>
>
> Chris Dimmock wrote:
> >
> >
> >  I've been running tap water and Redline waterwetter in my BJ8 for the
> past
> >  15 years. No issues. Changed it a few times, and my block & head were
> >  redistripped when the engine was built.
> >
> >
> >  From the redline website....
> >
> >
> >  "Red Line WaterWetter. is designed to provide improved metal wetting and
> >  excellent corrosion inhibition when added to plain water or a glycol
> >  coolant.
> >  ..... Red Line WaterWetter. will provide the proper corrosion inhibition
> >  for all common cooling system metals, including aluminum, cast iron,
> steel,
> >  copper, brass, and lead."
> >  [LINK:
> >
> http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf
> ]
> >
> http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 19:10:08 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6  cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I would add that it is preferable to install an external condensors. Much
better quality, last much longer and are sheltered from all the vibration
that the cheapo in distributor suffers from

Derek.


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 1:43 PM, Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com> wrote:

> Tom Felts wrote:
>
> >>>
> I would think it would be easier to just slip the old Per out and the new
> one in rather than removing and replacing the entire dist.
> <<<
>
>
>
> If you have a spare distributor, I'd advocate setting it up with points and
> condenser, setting the timing and driving the car with it long enough to
> verify the condenser is good.
>
> I have an index mark between the base plates of my distributors and the
> engine block so they can be removed and replaced without disturbing the
> timing. The wires are color coded and I have a wiring diagram on board.
>
>
>
> It's easy to fry a pertronix swapping it out on the road (I've done it) and
> there's always the chance that what fried the original will also fry the
> backup - hence the points distributor.
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
> Steve Gerow
>
> Altadena, CA, USA
>
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 12:20:18 2013
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	<CAAh8etnpFKVVcLBAMT49vhfW_MMgrbOWOeh+nG4NCCU-8M9bGA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 19:10:58 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix Electronic Ingnition for BJ8 with TR6  cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That's meant to say 'in distributor condenser suffers from'

Derek


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 7:10 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> I would add that it is preferable to install an external condensors. Much
> better quality, last much longer and are sheltered from all the vibration
> that the cheapo in distributor suffers from
>
> Derek.
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 1:43 PM, Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>wrote:
>
>> Tom Felts wrote:
>>
>> >>>
>> I would think it would be easier to just slip the old Per out and the new
>> one in rather than removing and replacing the entire dist.
>> <<<
>>
>>
>>
>> If you have a spare distributor, I'd advocate setting it up with points
>> and
>> condenser, setting the timing and driving the car with it long enough to
>> verify the condenser is good.
>>
>> I have an index mark between the base plates of my distributors and the
>> engine block so they can be removed and replaced without disturbing the
>> timing. The wires are color coded and I have a wiring diagram on board.
>>
>>
>>
>> It's easy to fry a pertronix swapping it out on the road (I've done it)
>> and
>> there's always the chance that what fried the original will also fry the
>> backup - hence the points distributor.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>>
>> Steve Gerow
>>
>> Altadena, CA, USA
>>
>> BN6
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 11:13:22 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 6:50 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
Why not grease?

Bob
------------------------------

Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

Why not grease?  I've seen a number of wheels where the PO used grease and
the wheels had to be cut off of the splines.

Most likely not an issue if you pull the wheels off yearly and re-grease
the splines.  I still prefer the anti seize compound

Curt
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 12:21:54 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 18:16:27 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
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OK, thanks. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----




On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 6:50 PM, Bob Spidell < bspidell@comcast.net > wrote: 
Why not grease? 

Bob 
------------------------------ 

Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 


Why not grease? I've seen a number of wheels where the PO used grease and the wheels had to be cut off of the splines. 


Most likely not an issue if you pull the wheels off yearly and re-grease the splines. I still prefer the anti seize compound 



Curt 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 12:33:47 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 20:19:46 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <000501ce676c$b100ed80$1302c880$@com>
	<C9A57B72-FDEF-479C-B475-99851F28B9BF@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
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Hear, hear!!
If proper coolant cannot do the job there is something amiss and 
remedial action is required.
Forget water wetter, it is rubbish, waterless coolant, idem,  and the 
likes. Use coolant with organic anti-corrosion dopes, the green stuff.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 12-6-2013 20:07, Derek Job schreef:
> I can't really see the point of water wetter. All it will do is temporarily
> mask underlying problems that you would otherwise become aware of.
>
> Derek
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 6:57 PM, Steve B. Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>wrote:
>
>> Chris,
>> You must be changing your coolant often enough for the pH to not get too
>> low.
>>
>> I experienced more corrosion in the last couple of years with water wetter
>> and purified water compared to the previous 8 years with coolant/purified
>> water which was essentially nil. There were enough flakes of rust clogging
>> the radiator tubes to make the car run noticeably hotter.
>>
>> While the rad was out for service, I did a back flush of the block with
>> water in through the lower water pump hose attachment and put a woman's
>> stocking on the upper hose fitting as a filter. 2 or 3 tablespoons of crud
>> showed up in the stocking along with some more rust bits.
>>
>> There's a lot of info online in various hotrod forums on how water wetter
>> is no longer being developed; it can result in a peanut-butter-like goo in
>> the coolant; the chemist who developed it no longer works for Redline, etc.
>>
>> These same folks prefer Royal Purple Ice instead of water wetter because
>> it is evidently a more modern formulation. I was all set to add that to my
>> coolant except it would have required 2 bottles at $15 each so I said the
>> hell with that and just went to the coolant/tap water mix with an
>> Australian Tefba coolant filter for good measure.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Steve
>>
>>
>> Chris Dimmock wrote:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 12:34:20 2013
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To: =?iso-8859-1?B?RGVyZWsgSm9i?= <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 10:27:21 -0800
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When I first installed WW, water and some water pump lube, I seemed to be observing a few degrees temp decrease in my normal running. RedLine's website is full of convincing testimonials on the product lowering temps pulling trailers up mountain grades, etc.


-- 
Steve Gerow



Derek Job wrote:

>  
>  I can't really see the point of water wetter. All it will do is
>  temporarily mask underlying problems that you would otherwise become aware
>  of.
>   
>  Derek
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From: Don <fsufan1952@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 14:28:34 -0400
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been using this grease called Super Impact Grease. # SIG-3000, the tube
says its for fleet and heavy equipment. One of the reasons I chose it was they
say it won't "pound out ".and I was tired of wiping off the grease from my
wire wheels and with me installing chrome wires I was even more concerned .
Well so far it is working out just fine .I live in Florida where it's hot a
lot and I have yet to see the grease on my wires.
         Don

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 12, 2013, at 1:50 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Why not grease?
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> Hi Mitch,
>
> Anti seize compound.... not grease
>
> Curt
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 10:08 AM, <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> hi
>>
>> what is the best lube for wire wheel splines? I am thinking about using
>> "permatex anti seize" silver.......................this appears to be
>> what the previous owner used and my hub splines are
>> perfect.............................of course the BJ8 has only 11,000 miles
>>
>>
>> Mitch
>>
>> 1959 BN4
>> 1966 BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 12:49:47 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 14:43:48 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

not to mention that grease tends to oozo out around the splines--unless, of course you have sealed splines.


---- Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 6:50 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
Why not grease?

Bob
------------------------------

Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA

Why not grease?  I've seen a number of wheels where the PO used grease and
the wheels had to be cut off of the splines.

Most likely not an issue if you pull the wheels off yearly and re-grease
the splines.  I still prefer the anti seize compound

Curt
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 18:46:45 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Don <fsufan1952@yahoo.com>
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Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Seal the inside of the hub around the spoke ends with silicone. No more grease on wires. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


I have been using this grease called Super Impact Grease. # SIG-3000, the tube says its for fleet and heavy equipment. One of the reasons I chose it was they say it won't "pound out ".and I was tired of wiping off the grease from my wire wheels and with me installing chrome wires I was even more concerned . Well so far it is working out just fine .I live in Florida where it's hot a lot and I have yet to see the grease on my wires. 
Don 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 13:38:56 2013
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From: "T+ B Willig" <willig@wtnet.de>
To: "'Steve B. Gerow'" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>, "'Chris Dimmock'"
	<austin.healey@gmail.com>
References: <000501ce676c$b100ed80$1302c880$@com>
	<C9A57B72-FDEF-479C-B475-99851F28B9BF@gmail.com>
	<20130612175717.6372.qmail@hoster902.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 21:23:35 +0200
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
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Gentlemen,

please be very careful when backflushing the engine! I did this,
disconnecting my brain from the working parts of my body (!), and was
wondering why the cockpit was full of water puddles. I busted the  heater
core :-((

Please note that normally the domestic water pressure is too much for the
heater core...you should not use water pressure above 1 bar. My pressure
gauge in the basement showed 4,5 bar! Way too much for a heater core to
survive..

Thomas Willig

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Steve B. Gerow [mailto:steveg@abrazosdata.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 12. Juni 2013 19:57
An: Chris Dimmock
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze

Chris,
You must be changing your coolant often enough for the pH to not get too
low.

I experienced more corrosion in the last couple of years with water wetter
and purified water compared to the previous 8 years with coolant/purified
water which was essentially nil. There were enough flakes of rust clogging
the radiator tubes to make the car run noticeably hotter.

While the rad was out for service, I did a back flush of the block with
water in through the lower water pump hose attachment and put a woman's
stocking on the upper hose fitting as a filter. 2 or 3 tablespoons of crud
showed up in the stocking along with some more rust bits.

There's a lot of info online in various hotrod forums on how water wetter is
no longer being developed; it can result in a peanut-butter-like goo in the
coolant; the chemist who developed it no longer works for Redline, etc.

These same folks prefer Royal Purple Ice instead of water wetter because it
is evidently a more modern formulation. I was all set to add that to my
coolant except it would have required 2 bottles at $15 each so I said the
hell with that and just went to the coolant/tap water mix with an Australian
Tefba coolant filter for good measure.


--
Steve


Chris Dimmock wrote:
>
>
>  I've been running tap water and Redline waterwetter in my BJ8 for the
past
>  15 years. No issues. Changed it a few times, and my block & head were
>  redistripped when the engine was built.
>
>
>  From the redline website....
>
>
>  "Red Line WaterWetter. is designed to provide improved metal wetting and
>  excellent corrosion inhibition when added to plain water or a glycol
>  coolant.
>  ..... Red Line WaterWetter. will provide the proper corrosion inhibition
>  for all common cooling system metals, including aluminum, cast iron,
steel,
>  copper, brass, and lead."
>  [LINK:
>
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf]
>
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 12:27:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>, Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bring a Trailer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm getting the same warning, on and off for the last couple of days.  It's
not the first time that BaT has had problems like this.


 
Rick


"Madman in
a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To:
Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 2:05 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Bring a Trailer
 

Any of you guys having a problem with
the BaT site?

Google is blocking my access saying the site is harmful and has
some virus
problems including infecting Throttleyard.com.

Seems weird, just
happened today.

Derek
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 13:40:35 2013
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?B?VCsgQiBXaWxsaWc=?= <willig@wtnet.de>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 11:27:58 -0800
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Cc: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Antifreeze?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thomas,
Thank you for the timely advice! 

Fortunately my heater was already disconnected.


-- 
Steve Gerow



>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: T+ B Willig <willig@wtnet.de>
>  To: 'Steve B. Gerow' <steveg@abrazosdata.com>, 'Chris Dimmock' <austin.healey@gmail.com>
>  Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>  Subject: AW: [Healeys] Antifreeze
>  Sent: Jun 12 '13 11:23
>  
>  Gentlemen,
>  
>  please be very careful when backflushing the engine! I did this,
>  disconnecting my brain from the working parts of my body (!), and was
>  wondering why the cockpit was full of water puddles. I busted the  heater
>  core :-((
>  
>  Please note that normally the domestic water pressure is too much for the
>  heater core...you should not use water pressure above 1 bar. My pressure
>  gauge in the basement showed 4,5 bar! Way too much for a heater core to
>  survive..
>  
>  Thomas Willig
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 13:41:06 2013
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	Wed, 12 Jun 2013 14:28:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@verizon.net>
To: "Don" <fsufan1952@yahoo.com>,	"Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
References: <382987279.99171.1371059457525.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<064C1C1A-491D-4A2D-94CC-05408DED9E70@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:28:05 -0400
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

When I got my new wires there was an info sheet with them that recommended 
sealing the heads of the spokes with silicone prior to greasing and 
installing.  Has been working for over 20 years, I just use bearing grease.
Pete

-----Original Message----- 
From: Don
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 2:28 PM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube

I have been using this grease called Super Impact Grease. # SIG-3000, the 
tube
says its for fleet and heavy equipment. One of the reasons I chose it was 
they
say it won't "pound out ".and I was tired of wiping off the grease from my
wire wheels and with me installing chrome wires I was even more concerned .
Well so far it is working out just fine .I live in Florida where it's hot a
lot and I have yet to see the grease on my wires.
         Don

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 12, 2013, at 1:50 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Why not grease?
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> Hi Mitch,
>
> Anti seize compound.... not grease
>
> Curt
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 10:08 AM, <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> hi
>>
>> what is the best lube for wire wheel splines? I am thinking about using
>> "permatex anti seize" silver.......................this appears to be
>> what the previous owner used and my hub splines are
>> perfect.............................of course the BJ8 has only 11,000 
>> miles
>>
>>
>> Mitch
>>
>> 1959 BN4
>> 1966 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 13:41:34 2013
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 12:32:34 -0700
	FILETIME=[96BCAA40:01CE67A3]
Subject: [Healeys] water wetterer
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I've been using ww for over ten years with 50/50 antifreeze with out any
problems. The coolants cames out clean with out any rust or flakes. Not the
pretty florescent green but slightly redish.   But I tend to change fluid
every 2-3 years. I've also only used distilled water again without problems.
When the engine and head was flushed about 5 years ago for head resurfacing,
not much came out. Maybe this is the reason I've always run cool (165 to175)
when ambient temps under 95.
I've always heard that Water Wetterer created a closer bond with the the
engine allowing more transfer of heat into the coolant.
Maybe when I refill the rad on Saturday, I'll leave it out and watch the temps
for a while. The 165 is actually too cool for max efficiency anyway. (I use an
infrared meter to verify)
Rich Kahn
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 14:23:43 2013
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 13:11:22 -0700
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

FWIW I crewed on a RX7 SCCA race car. It always overheated. They had been
using water wetter with poor results.
I pulled the rad made sure it was clean ( it was) and refilled the system
50/50 with the factory antifreeze from the shop.
The car no longer o/heated on the track.
Color me unimpressed with water wetter.
R


Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 12, 2013, at 11:27, "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com> wrote:

> When I first installed WW, water and some water pump lube, I seemed to be
observing a few degrees temp decrease in my normal running. RedLine's website
is full of convincing testimonials on the product lowering temps pulling
trailers up mountain grades, etc.
>
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
>
>
>
> Derek Job wrote:
>
>>
>> I can't really see the point of water wetter. All it will do is
>> temporarily mask underlying problems that you would otherwise become aware
>> of.
>>
>> Derek
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 14:26:46 2013
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From: R. Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:21:13 -0500
To: Healey List Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Rostra Cruise Control
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers -

As background, I have recently installed an alternator and pertronix ignition
system in my late model BJ8.  There are no other bells or whistles on the car.
I am now in the process of installing the Rostra 250-1223 Cruise Control unit
along with the 250-3592 switch and 250-4165 signal generator.  I have followed
the wiring and installation directions very carefully and everything seems to
work fine except the car "surges" when the cruise is engaged.  I have tried
several "switch" changes to tune the throttle control but it still surges when
engaged.  By "surge" I mean the car will speed up to the set speed, then coast
for about a second and then surge back to the set speed over and over again.
I have talked with the tech folks at Rostra several times but can't seem to
find a solution.  They tell me it is my car to blame. The latest suggestion
was to ground the unit directly to the negative side of the battery, I presume
to avoid electrical interference.  I did this, but no change.  I did not
ground the control switch to the battery, just the cruise module; could this
allow the interference I'm trying to avoid?

Any suggestions or the contact information of someone in the "know" about
these units would be greatly appreciated.

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 15:24:56 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 23:14:57 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
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Op 12-6-2013 20:27, Steve B. Gerow schreef:
> When I first installed WW, water and some water pump lube, I seemed to be observing a few degrees temp decrease in my normal running. RedLine's website is full of convincing testimonials on the product lowering temps pulling trailers up mountain grades, etc.
>
>


The only thing that should control the engine temperature is the engine thermostat. The engine temp should only be slightly higher than the rated temp on the thermostat, give or take a few degrees. If the temp goes way over it the radiator offers insufficient cooling capacity or the bypass is not blocked of. If the temperature remains below the rated temp the thermostat is at fault and remains fully open at all times.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL
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Thanks to all who replied............................I am going to use permatex "anti seize"...................little thicker than grease


Mitch
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 16:16:33 2013
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 08:10:28 +1000
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Kees,
Can you explain to me, in Sydney Australia, where the lowest ever recorded
temperature was 2.1 degrees Celcius, (35.8F) back in 1932, and the highest
ever recorded temperature was 45.8 degrees Celcius (114.4F), in January this
year, why I should use antifreeze in my Healey???
I just use tap water and waterwetter. I use waterwetter mostly because of its
anti corrosion properties.
I could use any number of products to add to water to lubricate the water
pump, and prevent corrosion, but as I've been using waterwetter for 15 years,
and the car has never overheated, I can't see a reason to change. BTW, it's
never frozen either...

Is there some reason I'm missing as to the benefits of adding ethlene glycol -
a very inefficient coolant compared to water - designed as an antifreeze - to
my Healey??
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 13/06/2013, at 4:19 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Hear, hear!!
> If proper coolant cannot do the job there is something amiss and remedial
action is required.
> Forget water wetter, it is rubbish, waterless coolant, idem,  and the likes.
Use coolant with organic anti-corrosion dopes, the green stuff.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 12-6-2013 20:07, Derek Job schreef:
>> I can't really see the point of water wetter. All it will do is
temporarily
>> mask underlying problems that you would otherwise become aware of.
>>
>> Derek
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References: <1924378868.244896.1371073233671.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 08:21:11 +1000
To: "caddi5@comcast.net" <caddi5@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's a tip.
You can use grease or anti seize - your preference.
But you should grease the WHEEL splines, and the hub and spinner threads, and
lightly wipe all tapered faces with minimal grease.
You DON'T actually grease the splined hub splines themselves.
Try it yourself - here's an experiment.
Grease the splined hub, not the wheel splines. For the sake of your
experiment, fill the valleys of the splined hub with grease. Just to make it
bloody obvious. No grease on the wheel splines.
Push the wheel onto the splined hub, grease lightly your spinner & hub thread
& tapers, and tighten up the wheel with the spinner. Now loosen the spinner,
remove the wheel, and look at the back of the splined hub.
See all that grease at the back of the hub & back of the wheel??????
It ends up in places that do nothing to help your wheels & hubs.
The wheel pushed the grease into the back of the hub/ wheel.
Now test 2.
Degrease everything. Clean & dry. Now pack the WHEEL splines with grease to
the top of the valleys. Grease the splined hub thread & spinner thread, and
lightly grease the tapers.
Now push the wheel on.
This time, the hub pushed the extra/excess grease to the spinner side of the
hub, didn't it??
Now wipe off the excess which was pushed out, put on your spinner & tighten.
No excess grease floating around in your wheel.
Obviously the amount of grease pushed in or out is also dependent on how good
your wheels & hubs are.
Best
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com

Sent from my iPhone

On 13/06/2013, at 7:40 AM, caddi5@comcast.net wrote:

> Thanks to all who replied............................I am going to use
permatex "anti seize"...................little thicker than
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:22:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, caddi5@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm surprised no one mentioned Copaslip compound for the splines.  Moss sells
it and it is recommended all over the web for wire wheel splines due to it's
corrosion prevention and extreme pressure properties.  
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5


--- On Wed, 6/12/13, caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:

From: caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, June 12, 2013, 9:40 PM

Thanks to all who replied............................I am going to use
permatex "anti seize"...................little thicker than grease


Mitch
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 16:59:29 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 18:50:52 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130514
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
References: <1371075728.10304.YahooMailClassic@web181106.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought a tube from Allen Hendrix when he did my wheels/tires.

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 06/12/2013 06:22 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> I'm surprised no one mentioned Copaslip compound for the splines.  Moss sells
> it and it is recommended all over the web for wire wheel splines due to it's
> corrosion prevention and extreme pressure properties.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
>
>
> --- On Wed, 6/12/13, caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> From: caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, June 12, 2013, 9:40 PM
>
> Thanks to all who replied............................I am going to use
> permatex "anti seize"...................little thicker than grease
>
>
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 17:17:18 2013
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:09:58 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5nwfVBctkynFuzSS+jPgmo14jXRA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Adjusting temp gauge accuracy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone know if it's possible to move the temp gauge pointer? Or is it
extremely fragile like the gas gauge pointer?

My gauge is 25-30 degrees high and would like to adjust it back down.

 

--

Steve Gerow
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 17:30:03 2013
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:17:09 -0700
To: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>, "<Healeys@autox.team.net>"
	<Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That was a LOT of years ago. To the best of my knowledge it was legal then.
Legal or not it worked.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 12, 2013, at 14:39, richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com> wrote:

> FWI, anti freeze is illegal to use in SCCA racing.
>
> Richard Mayor
>
> > From: richard.ewald@gmail.com
> > Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 13:11:22 -0700
> > To: steveg@abrazosdata.com
> > CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
> >
> > FWIW I crewed on a RX7 SCCA race car. It always overheated. They had been
> > using water wetter with poor results.
> > I pulled the rad made sure it was clean ( it was) and refilled the system
> > 50/50 with the factory antifreeze from the shop.
> > The car no longer o/heated on the track.
> > Color me unimpressed with water wetter.
> > R
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > On Jun 12, 2013, at 11:27, "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
wrote:
> >
> > > When I first installed WW, water and some water pump lube, I seemed to
be
> > observing a few degrees temp decrease in my normal running. RedLine's
website
> > is full of convincing testimonials on the product lowering temps pulling
> > trailers up mountain grades, etc.
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Steve Gerow
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Derek Job wrote:
> > >
> > >>
> > >> I can't really see the point of water wetter. All it will do is
> > >> temporarily mask underlying problems that you would otherwise become
aware
> > >> of.
> > >>
> > >> Derek
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:21:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting temp gauge accuracy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dt102.htm

Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

--- On Wed, 6/12/13, Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com> wrote:

From: Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Adjusting temp gauge accuracy
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, June 12, 2013, 11:09 PM

Does anyone know if it's possible to move the temp gauge pointer? Or is it
extremely fragile like the gas gauge pointer?

My gauge is 25-30 degrees high and would like to adjust it back down.



--

Steve Gerow
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 18:13:08 2013
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	<51B8BBC2.4050107@chello.nl>
	<B72910AC-BDA2-4FDD-8CB7-3E8CD7096E53@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 07:47:26 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Actually, good quality anti-freeze is great stuff for preserving your
engine block, but it has little to do with the ethylene glycol other than
it helps reduce the acidity in water when it sits in the engine too long.
 The main value of anti-freeze for those of us in warm climates are the
corrosion inhibitors in the anti-freeze.  I believe water wetter has some
in it, but for good measure it would be interesting to call them and ask if
they have any recommendations for corrosion inhibitors.  I put a zinc plug
under my radiator cap...?

I've pulled apart motors that have used too much anti-freeze, and boy, if
there's one thing it does is it helps keep the block passageways clean and
free of crud.

Water wetter?  It definitely works, but you need less than
20% ethylene glycol in the system to see it work properly.  It's
particularly useful in the 6-cylinder healeys in the head, it really does
wonders to keep head temps down.

Alan


On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 6:10 AM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>wrote:

> Kees,
> Can you explain to me, in Sydney Australia, where the lowest ever recorded
> temperature was 2.1 degrees Celcius, (35.8F) back in 1932, and the highest
> ever recorded temperature was 45.8 degrees Celcius (114.4F), in January
> this
> year, why I should use antifreeze in my Healey???
> I just use tap water and waterwetter. I use waterwetter mostly because of
> its
> anti corrosion properties.
> I could use any number of products to add to water to lubricate the water
> pump, and prevent corrosion, but as I've been using waterwetter for 15
> years,
> and the car has never overheated, I can't see a reason to change. BTW, it's
> never frozen either...
>
> Is there some reason I'm missing as to the benefits of adding ethlene
> glycol -
> a very inefficient coolant compared to water - designed as an antifreeze -
> to
> my Healey??
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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	2.2.3.47 r(39787)) with ESMTPA id D6/80-02770-FEE09B15; Wed, 12 Jun
	2013 20:14:39 -0400
From: "Charlie Schott" <schottc@knology.net>
To: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>, "richard mayor"
	<mayorrichard@hotmail.com>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000501ce676c$b100ed80$1302c880$@com><C9A57B72-FDEF-479C-B475-99851F28B9BF@gmail.com><20130612175717.6372.qmail@hoster902.com><CAAh8etniDHoMsAMg5Mg7qiAqoGOnTgPd8hruQEh2etXGQp+VUg@mail.gmail.com><20130612182721.16675.qmail@hoster902.com><560397D9-D40C-46EA-816D-49E47282244E@gmail.com><BAY173-W2F45FE442EAA9FAF13802C0860@phx.gbl>
	<0A6BD3AF-7710-4EAA-9795-1007E870338E@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 17:14:40 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thermal Switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Could someone please tell me how to fix and test the thermal switch for the 
starter carb on a BT7? I put mine in boiling water and it still showed a 
short. It's now disassembled but I'm not sure on how to proceed. Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc@knology.net 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 02:27:09 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
References: <000501ce676c$b100ed80$1302c880$@com>
	<C9A57B72-FDEF-479C-B475-99851F28B9BF@gmail.com>
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Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris,

I am talking about coolant, not antifreeze. Antifreeze is not the same 
as coolant. Coolant contains antifreeze but also a host of other 
chemicals with certain properties, stabilizers, pump lubrication, 
corrosion inhibitors etc. It is a whole package.
In warm countries it is obvious hat the antifreeze properties of the 
coolant do not bear much significance.
If you have problems with cooling an engine water wetter may sound like 
a good idea, but it is not. It may make a horrible mess inside. I have 
seen it react inside an (aluminium) engine that had not been running for 
about a year. It had formed some kind of  gel which was nigh impossible 
to remove

Cheers,
Kees

Op 13-6-2013 0:10, Chris Dimmock schreef:
> Kees,
> Can you explain to me, in Sydney Australia, where the lowest ever recorded temperature was 2.1 degrees Celcius, (35.8F) back in 1932, and the highest ever recorded temperature was 45.8 degrees Celcius (114.4F), in January this year, why I should use antifreeze in my Healey???
> I just use tap water and waterwetter. I use waterwetter mostly because of its anti corrosion properties.
> I could use any number of products to add to water to lubricate the water pump, and prevent corrosion, but as I've been using waterwetter for 15 years, and the car has never overheated, I can't see a reason to change. BTW, it's never frozen either...
>
> Is there some reason I'm missing as to the benefits of adding ethlene glycol - a very inefficient coolant compared to water - designed as an antifreeze - to my Healey??
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 13/06/2013, at 4:19 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> Hear, hear!!
>> If proper coolant cannot do the job there is something amiss and remedial action is required.
>> Forget water wetter, it is rubbish, waterless coolant, idem,  and the likes. Use coolant with organic anti-corrosion dopes, the green stuff.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>>
>> Op 12-6-2013 20:07, Derek Job schreef:
>>> I can't really see the point of water wetter. All it will do is temporarily
>>> mask underlying problems that you would otherwise become aware of.
>>>
>>> Derek
>>>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6404 - datum van uitgifte: 06/12/13
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 17:33:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, caddi5@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

List,

Amazon return 60 hits on "permatex anti seize".

Which one?

Greg

--- On Wed, 6/12/13, caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:

> From: caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, June 12, 2013, 5:40 PM
> Thanks to all who
> replied............................I am going to use
> permatex "anti seize"...................little thicker than
> grease
>
>
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 19:07:05 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 02:36:56 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <001501ce67c1$f80577a0$e81066e0$@com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting temp gauge accuracy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If it is a constant 25-30 degrees of you can lift of the needle and 
reposition it on the spindle.
To do so remove the entire assembly from the car, taking great care with 
the capillary tube, remove bezel and glass, and then lift of the 
hand/needle/pointer with two small screwdrivers under the centre and 
resting on the rim of the gauge. Insert the bulb at the end of the 
capillary tube in boiling water leave it for a few minutes and then 
reposition the needle pointing to 100 degrees C or 212 degrees F and 
press down.

It the deviation is not constant you may have to adjust the small U 
shaped section between the bourdon spring and gear.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 13-6-2013 1:09, Steve Gerow schreef:
> Does anyone know if it's possible to move the temp gauge pointer? Or is it
> extremely fragile like the gas gauge pointer?
>
> My gauge is 25-30 degrees high and would like to adjust it back down.
>
>   
>
> --
>
> Steve Gerow
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6404 - datum van uitgifte: 06/12/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 19:08:42 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 02:43:56 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1371075728.10304.YahooMailClassic@web181106.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<51B8FB4C.2080209@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have used Copaslip for years as an anti seize compound. However as it 
contains pure copper particles it may cause electrolytic corrosion of 
steel, although it never happened to me. That is why I changed lately to 
an aluminium based anti seize compound.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 13-6-2013 0:50, Bob Haskell schreef:
> I bought a tube from Allen Hendrix when he did my wheels/tires.
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 06/12/2013 06:22 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
>> I'm surprised no one mentioned Copaslip compound for the splines.  
>> Moss sells
>> it and it is recommended all over the web for wire wheel splines due 
>> to it's
>> corrosion prevention and extreme pressure properties.
>> Mike MacLean
>> 56 BN2
>> 60 AN5
>>
>>
>> --- On Wed, 6/12/13, caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> From: caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Date: Wednesday, June 12, 2013, 9:40 PM
>>
>> Thanks to all who replied............................I am going to use
>> permatex "anti seize"...................little thicker than grease
>>
>>
>> Mitch
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6404 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 06/12/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 19:32:46 2013
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From: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
To: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, "Chris Dimmock"
	<austin.healey@gmail.com>
References: <000501ce676c$b100ed80$1302c880$@com><C9A57B72-FDEF-479C-B475-99851F28B9BF@gmail.com><20130612175717.6372.qmail@hoster902.com><CAAh8etniDHoMsAMg5Mg7qiAqoGOnTgPd8hruQEh2etXGQp+VUg@mail.gmail.com><51B8BBC2.4050107@chello.nl><B72910AC-BDA2-4FDD-8CB7-3E8CD7096E53@gmail.com>
	<51B911DD.8020300@chello.nl>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 21:03:03 -0400
	FILETIME=[CAF988E0:01CE67D1]
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Please pardon my naiveti, but can you name a USA supplier of what you are
calling "coolant"?
GaryB

-----Original Message-----
From: Oudesluys
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 8:27 PM
To: Chris Dimmock
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze

Chris,

I am talking about coolant, not antifreeze. Antifreeze is not the same
as coolant. Coolant contains antifreeze but also a host of other
chemicals with certain properties, stabilizers, pump lubrication,
corrosion inhibitors etc. It is a whole package.
In warm countries it is obvious hat the antifreeze properties of the
coolant do not bear much significance.
If you have problems with cooling an engine water wetter may sound like
a good idea, but it is not. It may make a horrible mess inside. I have
seen it react inside an (aluminium) engine that had not been running for
about a year. It had formed some kind of  gel which was nigh impossible
to remove

Cheers,
Kees

Op 13-6-2013 0:10, Chris Dimmock schreef:
> Kees,
> Can you explain to me, in Sydney Australia, where the lowest ever recorded
> temperature was 2.1 degrees Celcius, (35.8F) back in 1932, and the highest
> ever recorded temperature was 45.8 degrees Celcius (114.4F), in January
> this year, why I should use antifreeze in my Healey???
> I just use tap water and waterwetter. I use waterwetter mostly because of
> its anti corrosion properties.
> I could use any number of products to add to water to lubricate the water
> pump, and prevent corrosion, but as I've been using waterwetter for 15
> years, and the car has never overheated, I can't see a reason to change.
> BTW, it's never frozen either...
>
> Is there some reason I'm missing as to the benefits of adding ethlene
> glycol - a very inefficient coolant compared to water - designed as an
> antifreeze - to my Healey??
> Chris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 13/06/2013, at 4:19 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> Hear, hear!!
>> If proper coolant cannot do the job there is something amiss and remedial
>> action is required.
>> Forget water wetter, it is rubbish, waterless coolant, idem,  and the
>> likes. Use coolant with organic anti-corrosion dopes, the green stuff.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> NL
>>
>>
>> Op 12-6-2013 20:07, Derek Job schreef:
>>> I can't really see the point of water wetter. All it will do is
>>> temporarily
>>> mask underlying problems that you would otherwise become aware of.
>>>
>>> Derek
>>>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6404 - datum van uitgifte:
> 06/12/13
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gbrierton@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 19:33:33 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 03:17:42 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
References: <000501ce676c$b100ed80$1302c880$@com><C9A57B72-FDEF-479C-B475-99851F28B9BF@gmail.com><20130612175717.6372.qmail@hoster902.com><CAAh8etniDHoMsAMg5Mg7qiAqoGOnTgPd8hruQEh2etXGQp+VUg@mail.gmail.com><51B8BBC2.4050107@chello.nl><B72910AC-BDA2-4FDD-8CB7-3E8CD7096E53@gmail.com>
	<51B911DD.8020300@chello.nl>
	<BLU166-DS6E651B2CA7AECDAC38709B3870@phx.gbl>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

  Sorry Gary, but I do not know the USA market. I suppose all main oil 
companies can supply coolant? They do overhere, but there are also many 
other suppliers e.g. Halfords, Comma, Brezan etc.
Kees Oudesluijs


Op 13-6-2013 3:03, Gary R. Brierton schreef:
> Please pardon my naiveti, but can you name a USA supplier of what you 
> are calling "coolant"?
> GaryB
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys
> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 8:27 PM
> To: Chris Dimmock
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
>
> Chris,
>
> I am talking about coolant, not antifreeze. Antifreeze is not the same
> as coolant. Coolant contains antifreeze but also a host of other
> chemicals with certain properties, stabilizers, pump lubrication,
> corrosion inhibitors etc. It is a whole package.
> In warm countries it is obvious hat the antifreeze properties of the
> coolant do not bear much significance.
> If you have problems with cooling an engine water wetter may sound like
> a good idea, but it is not. It may make a horrible mess inside. I have
> seen it react inside an (aluminium) engine that had not been running for
> about a year. It had formed some kind of  gel which was nigh impossible
> to remove
>
> Cheers,
> Kees
>
> Op 13-6-2013 0:10, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>> Kees,
>> Can you explain to me, in Sydney Australia, where the lowest ever 
>> recorded temperature was 2.1 degrees Celcius, (35.8F) back in 1932, 
>> and the highest ever recorded temperature was 45.8 degrees Celcius 
>> (114.4F), in January 
>
>> this year, why I should use antifreeze in my Healey???
>> I just use tap water and waterwetter. I use waterwetter mostly 
>> because of its anti corrosion properties.
>> I could use any number of products to add to water to lubricate the 
>> water pump, and prevent corrosion, but as I've been using waterwetter 
>> for 15 years, and the car has never overheated, I can't see a reason 
>> to change. BTW, it's never frozen either...
>>
>> Is there some reason I'm missing as to the benefits of adding ethlene 
>> glycol - a very inefficient coolant compared to water - designed as 
>> an antifreeze - to my Healey??
>> Chris
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On 13/06/2013, at 4:19 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>>
>>> Hear, hear!!
>>> If proper coolant cannot do the job there is something amiss and 
>>> remedial action is required.
>>> Forget water wetter, it is rubbish, waterless coolant, idem, and the 
>>> likes. Use coolant with organic anti-corrosion dopes, the green stuff.
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>> NL
>>>
>>>
>>> Op 12-6-2013 20:07, Derek Job schreef:
>>>> I can't really see the point of water wetter. All it will do is 
>>>> temporarily
>>>> mask underlying problems that you would otherwise become aware of.
>>>>
>>>> Derek
>>>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6404 - datum van uitgifte: 
>> 06/12/13
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gbrierton@hotmail.com
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6404 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 06/12/13
>
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 09:35:58 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Thermal Switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Charlie -

You fix the otter switch by purchasing a new one, opening the package,
putting the new otter switch in your hand, and throwing it as far as you
can out the window.

These otter switches are notorious, and frankly even when operating have
a tendency to waste a huge amount of fuel.  The only way to fix this is to
disconnect the otter switch and link the starter carb (aka Automatic
Enrichment Device) direct to ground with a hand operated switch which cuts
the ground when you don't want it to be on.  This was the standard factory
fix, issued by both Austin Healey as well as Jaguar... even the factory
hated the otter switch.

For my Jaguar Mk IX, I have a nice push pull switch installed... works very
well... when it's out, I know the AED is on, and push in to be off.  No
need for the AED after to get up to speed, saving fuel.

Best,

Alan



On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 8:14 AM, Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net> wrote:

> Could someone please tell me how to fix and test the thermal switch for
> the starter carb on a BT7? I put mine in boiling water and it still showed
> a short. It's now disassembled but I'm not sure on how to proceed. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 21:51:02 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
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Kees,
Here is a hint.  It's the same stuff.  It lowers the freezing point and
raises the boiling point of water.  It has various chemicals added to act
as corrosion inhibitors.


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 5:27 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Chris,
>
> I am talking about coolant, not antifreeze. Antifreeze is not the same as
> coolant. Coolant contains antifreeze but also a host of other chemicals
> with certain properties, stabilizers, pump lubrication, corrosion
> inhibitors etc. It is a whole package.
> In warm countries it is obvious hat the antifreeze properties of the
> coolant do not bear much significance.
> If you have problems with cooling an engine water wetter may sound like a
> good idea, but it is not. It may make a horrible mess inside. I have seen
> it react inside an (aluminium) engine that had not been running for about a
> year. It had formed some kind of  gel which was nigh impossible to remove
>
> Cheers,
> Kees
>
> Op 13-6-2013 0:10, Chris Dimmock schreef:
>
>> Kees,
>> Can you explain to me, in Sydney Australia, where the lowest ever
>> recorded temperature was 2.1 degrees Celcius, (35.8F) back in 1932, and the
>> highest ever recorded temperature was 45.8 degrees Celcius (114.4F), in
>> January this year, why I should use antifreeze in my Healey???
>> I just use tap water and waterwetter. I use waterwetter mostly because of
>> its anti corrosion properties.
>> I could use any number of products to add to water to lubricate the water
>> pump, and prevent corrosion, but as I've been using waterwetter for 15
>> years, and the car has never overheated, I can't see a reason to change.
>> BTW, it's never frozen either...
>>
>> Is there some reason I'm missing as to the benefits of adding ethlene
>> glycol - a very inefficient coolant compared to water - designed as an
>> antifreeze - to my Healey??
>> Chris
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On 13/06/2013, at 4:19 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>>
>>  Hear, hear!!
>>> If proper coolant cannot do the job there is something amiss and
>>> remedial action is required.
>>> Forget water wetter, it is rubbish, waterless coolant, idem,  and the
>>> likes. Use coolant with organic anti-corrosion dopes, the green stuff.
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>> NL
>>>
>>>
>>> Op 12-6-2013 20:07, Derek Job schreef:
>>>
>>>> I can't really see the point of water wetter. All it will do is
>>>> temporarily
>>>> mask underlying problems that you would otherwise become aware of.
>>>>
>>>> Derek
>>>>
>>>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6404 - datum van uitgifte:
>> 06/12/13
>>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 23:08:40 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 21:57:57 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

When I was turning wrenches for a living, this bottle lived on top of my
tool box.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000AAJTXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371099210&sr=8-1&keywords=permatex+anti+seize
For a hobbyist, it is a life time supply.  I would still recommend it over
the smaller tubes for one reason, it has a brush inside the bottle so you
can apply it on whatever without getting it all over your hands.
It also has the advantage that it is about the same color as a silver
painted wire wheel.
I would not use the copper stuff for that reason.
Rick


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 5:33 PM, Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com> wrote:

> List,
>
> Amazon return 60 hits on "permatex anti seize".
>
> Which one?
>
> Greg
>
> --- On Wed, 6/12/13, caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > From: caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net>
> > Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Date: Wednesday, June 12, 2013, 5:40 PM
> > Thanks to all who
> > replied............................I am going to use
> > permatex "anti seize"...................little thicker than
> > grease
> >
> >
> > Mitch
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 23:50:57 2013
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When I was in industry the company Lubrication Engineer gave me a tin of 
'anti-freting grease' to apply to the splines.  Their high wear is due 
the high load on the vertical faces of the spline.  A dry spline will 
often shown flakes of metal from the cyclic load from accelerating and 
then braking. This can also be seen on the hub tapered face if there is 
movement relative to the wheel tapered face.The tapered faces at back of 
the hub and at the knock off end keep the wheel splines concentric to 
the hub splines to avoid excessive freting of the driving/ braking  
faces of the splines.
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Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
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Richard,

Which hint????

Kees


Op 13-6-2013 6:51, Richard Ewald schreef:
> Kees,
> Here is a hint.  It's the same stuff.  It lowers the freezing point 
> and raises the boiling point of water.  It has various chemicals added 
> to act as corrosion inhibitors.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 03:57:09 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 11:46:20 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <001501ce67c1$f80577a0$e81066e0$@com> <51B91428.3060701@chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adjusting temp gauge accuracy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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This is not entirely correct. I should have said: if the deviation is a 
constant sector/distance.
Kees


Op 13-6-2013 2:36, Oudesluys schreef:
> If it is a constant 25-30 degrees of you can lift of the needle and 
> reposition it on the spindle.
> To do so remove the entire assembly from the car, taking great care 
> with the capillary tube, remove bezel and glass, and then lift of the 
> hand/needle/pointer with two small screwdrivers under the centre and 
> resting on the rim of the gauge. Insert the bulb at the end of the 
> capillary tube in boiling water leave it for a few minutes and then 
> reposition the needle pointing to 100 degrees C or 212 degrees F and 
> press down.
>
> It the deviation is not constant you may have to adjust the small U 
> shaped section between the bourdon spring and gear.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 13-6-2013 1:09, Steve Gerow schreef:
>> Does anyone know if it's possible to move the temp gauge pointer? Or 
>> is it
>> extremely fragile like the gas gauge pointer?
>>
>> My gauge is 25-30 degrees high and would like to adjust it back down.
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> Steve Gerow 
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To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>, Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
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That is what I have been using for a long time.


---- Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
When I was turning wrenches for a living, this bottle lived on top of my
tool box.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000AAJTXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371099210&sr=8-1&keywords=permatex+anti+seize
For a hobbyist, it is a life time supply.  I would still recommend it over
the smaller tubes for one reason, it has a brush inside the bottle so you
can 
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 04:57:05 -0700
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Coolant = antifreeze.
Two names same stuff.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 13, 2013, at 2:39, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Richard,
>
> Which hint????
>
> Kees
>
>
> Op 13-6-2013 6:51, Richard Ewald schreef:
>> Kees,
>> Here is a hint.  It's the same stuff.  It lowers the freezing point and
raises the boiling point of water.  It has various chemicals added to act as
corrosion inhibitors.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 06:05:11 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 7:59:41 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

re-sent---first didn't go thry.


Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze

Chris,
Not sure where made, but BMW, which makes "special" "everything" for their cars, makes what they call Antifreeze/coolent made for the BMW.

I don't have any containers of the stuff I put in my Healey, but at least someone makes a "coolent"

tom


I am talking about coolant, not antifreeze. Antifreeze is not the same
as coolant. Coolant contains antifreeze but also a host of other
chemicals with certain properties, stabilizers, pump lubrication,
corrosion inhibitors etc. It is a whole package.
In warm countries it is obvious hat the antifreeze properties of the
coolant do not bear much significance.
If you have problems with cooling an engine water wetter may sound like
a>
=============
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 06:16:06 2013
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From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
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To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
References: <000501ce676c$b100ed80$1302c880$@com>
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Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Not correct,
Antifreeze is only one component of coolant,
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 13-6-2013 13:57, Richard Ewald schreef:
> Coolant = antifreeze.
> Two names same stuff.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 13, 2013, at 2:39, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> Richard,
>>
>> Which hint????
>>
>> Kees
>>
>>
>> Op 13-6-2013 6:51, Richard Ewald schreef:
>>> Kees,
>>> Here is a hint.  It's the same stuff.  It lowers the freezing point and raises the boiling point of water.  It has various chemicals added to act as corrosion inhibitors.
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6406 - datum van uitgifte: 06/12/13
>
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 06:21:47 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 05:16:07 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20130613075941.OF5SJ.30524.root@pamxwww03-z01>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, as a self-anointed semanticist I'm going to jump in here.  Technically, 'coolant' would be whatever you put in an 
engine's temperature moderating system.  It could be water, water + soluble oil, water + WW, alcohol (old school) + 
water, 'antifreeze' + water, etc .  'Antifreeze' would be an agent added to coolant to lower the freezing point of the 
coolant so, technically alcohol, store-bought 'antifreeze'--which, typically, is either (mostly) ethylene glycol or 
(mostly) propylene glycol (kinder to animals and the environment, supposedly)--or something BMW sells for twice the 
price but is likely just ethylene or propylene glycol with a BMW logo which, of course, adds great value to the liquid.  
The stuff that's sold as 'waterless' coolant is, I believe a mixture of both propylene and ethylene glycol. Antifreeze 
also contains rust inhibitors and/or pH moderators; aka 'buffers.'

So, technically, if you put only pure antifreeze in your radiator it would also be the 'coolant.'

Bob



On 6/13/2013 4:59 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
> re-sent---first didn't go thry.
>
>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
>
> Chris,
> Not sure where made, but BMW, which makes "special" "everything" for their cars, makes what they call Antifreeze/coolent made for the BMW.
>
> I don't have any containers of the stuff I put in my Healey, but at least someone makes a "coolent"
>
> tom
>
>
> I am talking about coolant, not antifreeze. Antifreeze is not the same
> as coolant. Coolant contains antifreeze but also a host of other
> chemicals with certain properties, stabilizers, pump lubrication,
> corrosion inhibitors etc. It is a whole package.
> In warm countries it is obvious hat the antifreeze properties of the
> coolant do not bear much significance.
> If you have problems with cooling an engine water wetter may sound like
> a>
> =============
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 06:38:01 2013
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 05:32:10 -0700
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Then provide a cite from an recognized authority that says they are different.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 13, 2013, at 5:06, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Not correct,
> Antifreeze is only one component of coolant,
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 13-6-2013 13:57, Richard Ewald schreef:
>> Coolant = antifreeze.
>> Two names same stuff.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jun 13, 2013, at 2:39, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>>
>>> Richard,
>>>
>>> Which hint????
>>>
>>> Kees
>>>
>>>
>>> Op 13-6-2013 6:51, Richard Ewald schreef:
>>>> Kees,
>>>> Here is a hint.  It's the same stuff.  It lowers the freezing point and
raises the boiling point of water.  It has various chemicals added to act as
corrosion inhibitors.
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6406 - datum van uitgifte:
06/12/13
>
>
> --
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Dorpsstraat 183
> 2995XG Heerjansdam
> T: 078-677 1233
> E: coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
> Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
> Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
> www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 06:50:57 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 8:35:54 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Antifreeze
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://autorepair.about.com/od/autorepairdictionary/a/def_antifreeze.htm






---- Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Then provide a cite from an recognized authority that says they are different.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 13, 2013, at 5:06, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Not correct,
> Antifreeze is only one component of coolant,
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 13-6-2013 13:57, Richard Ewald schreef:
>> Coolant = antifreeze.
>> Two names same stuff.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jun 13, 2013, at 2:39, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>>
>>> Richard,
>>>
>>> Which hint????
>>>
>>> Kees
>>>
>>>
>>> Op 13-6-2013 6:51, Richard Ewald schreef:
>>>> Kees,
>>>> Here is a hint.  It's the same stuff.  It lowers the freezing point and
raises the boiling point of water.  It has various chemicals added to act as
corrosion inhibitors.
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6406 - datum van uitgifte:
06/12/13
>
>
> --
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Dorpsstraat 183
> 2995XG Heerjansdam
> T: 078-677 1233
> E: coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
> Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
> Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
> www.jensenholland.nl
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Subject: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
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As an editor (of a car magazine), I just love these semantic battles:
Are antifreeze and coolant the same thing by different names? And who sez?

One person's quick-and-dirty wikipedish online source says they're the same.


BUT, my primary reference for this kind of information, the Road & Track
Automotive Dictionary (John Dinkel, Bentley Publishers, 2000), says:

"Antifreeze: Any of several substances (commonly liquids and typically
ethylene glycolo) mixed with water and added to a car's cooling system to
lower the freezing point of the coolant and to inhibit formation of rust and
other deposits."

Note that according to them, the two terms are obviously different, and also
note, according to them, Antifreeze DOES NOT RAISE THE BOILING POINT OF THE
COOLANT. Only something like Water Wetter can actually do that.

So there, for what it's worth.

Gary

Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Editor-at-large, Austin-Healey Magazine
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 13:42:02 2013
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
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See:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://hellafunctional.com/wp-content/up
loads/2011/11/boilpt.gif&imgrefurl=http://hellafunctional.com/?p%3D629&h=395
&w=620&sz=30&tbnid=UOITpTaaMnxGoM:&tbnh=87&tbnw=137&zoom=1&usg=__e49vC07imee
gXb98FVGWrsxgz3Q=&docid=Pn0JlHBXXYobNM&sa=X&ei=ZBS6UdvIBKns0gGRsIHADA&ved=0C
C8Q9QEwAA&dur=1182

I wonder sometimes about the journalistic excellence of some car magazine
writers....maybe there is a semantic difference to be claimed? 

(sorry for the long URL, but a quick google of "antifreeze boiling point"
will reveal that indeed (regardless of whatever scientific credentials
claimed by journalists) antifreeze does indeed elevate the boiling point.)

Thanks
-skip-

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 2:15 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things

As an editor (of a car magazine), I just love these semantic battles:
Are antifreeze and coolant the same thing by different names? And who sez?

One person's quick-and-dirty wikipedish online source says they're the same.


BUT, my primary reference for this kind of information, the Road & Track
Automotive Dictionary (John Dinkel, Bentley Publishers, 2000), says:

"Antifreeze: Any of several substances (commonly liquids and typically
ethylene glycolo) mixed with water and added to a car's cooling system to
lower the freezing point of the coolant and to inhibit formation of rust and
other deposits."

Note that according to them, the two terms are obviously different, and also
note, according to them, Antifreeze DOES NOT RAISE THE BOILING POINT OF THE
COOLANT. Only something like Water Wetter can actually do that.

So there, for what it's worth.

Gary

Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Editor-at-large, Austin-Healey Magazine
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7@mindspring.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 13:47:21 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Well---there you have it-----your quick and dirty is better that others:)


---- editorgary@aol.com wrote: 

=============
As an editor (of a car magazine), I just love these semantic battles:
Are antifreeze and coolant the same thing by different names? And who sez?

One person's quick-and-dirty wikipedish online source says they're the same.


BUT, my primary reference for this kind of information, the Road & Track
Automotive Dictionary (John Dinkel, Bentley Publishers, 2000), says:

"Antifreeze: Any of several substances (commonly liquids and typically
ethylene glycolo) mixed with water and added to a car's cooling system to
lower the freezing point of the coolant and to inhibit formation of rust and
other deposits."

Note that according to them, the two terms are obviously different, and also
note, according to them, Antifreeze DOES NOT RAISE THE BOILING POINT OF THE
COOLANT. Only something like Water Wetter can actually do that.

So there, for what it's worth.

Gary

Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Editor-at-large, Austin-Healey Magazine
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 14:23:42 2013
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It's journalists like us who despair of readers like you who don't read
carefully. Note that I made no claim of my credentials, scientific or
otherwise.
What I wrote was that "according to them [Road & Track], antifreeze doesn't
raise the boiling point."
Which is a reasonable interpretation, given that the definition noted that
antifreeze in coolant did lower the freezing point of the coolant.
G.







Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz Club of America





-----Original Message-----
From: Skip Saunders <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: editorgary <editorgary@aol.com>; healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jun 13, 2013 11:54 am
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things


See:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://hellafunctional.com/wp-content/up
loads/2011/11/boilpt.gif&imgrefurl=http://hellafunctional.com/?p%3D629&h=395
&w=620&sz=30&tbnid=UOITpTaaMnxGoM:&tbnh=87&tbnw=137&zoom=1&usg=__e49vC07imee
gXb98FVGWrsxgz3Q=&docid=Pn0JlHBXXYobNM&sa=X&ei=ZBS6UdvIBKns0gGRsIHADA&ved=0C
C8Q9QEwAA&dur=1182

I wonder sometimes about the journalistic excellence of some car magazine
writers....maybe there is a semantic difference to be claimed?

(sorry for the long URL, but a quick google of "antifreeze boiling point"
will reveal that indeed (regardless of whatever scientific credentials
claimed by journalists) antifreeze does indeed elevate the boiling point.)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 15:01:48 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 6/13/2013 1:53 PM, Skip Saunders wrote:
> (sorry for the long URL, but a quick google of "antifreeze boiling point"
> will reveal that indeed...>>
that had you taken a minute to  (PREFERRED) used www.tinyurl.com or at 
LEAST
EDITED what that MESS of a url (it might of worked <G>), we ALL we be 
reading
the EXACT article you wanted us to read, Skip.

So Here:            http://tinyurl.com/llsezga

Interesting.    Thanks.

Ed
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 13:21:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Found a copy of the BMC flat rate manual for the BJ7 on John Sims' excellent
Healey6 site

Here's some times to try for on your next job:

Engine and
gearbox, remove from frame, fit replacement
power unit, change over all
ancillary equipment, including
cleaning and adjusting carburetters,
distributor, and
air cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . 11h  30m 

BDC.41 Door
window winder assembly, remove and refit or fit new . . . . 3h  15m 

12,000
miles service . . . . . . . . . . 10h  30m

SS.17 Swivel pin, remove and fit
new and rebush, one side . . . . 4h --

Find the full sheet here under
MISCELLANEOUS/  "Schedule of Repair Times" http://healey6.com/technical.htm
 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 13:38:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Schedule of Repair Times
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Found a copy of the BMC flat rate manual for the BJ7 on John Sims' excellent
Healey6 site

Here's some times to try for on your next job:

Engine and
gearbox, remove from frame, fit replacement
power unit, change over all
ancillary equipment, including
cleaning and adjusting carburetters,
distributor, and
air cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . 11h  30m 

BDC.41 Door
window winder assembly, remove and refit or fit new . . . . 3h  15m 

12,000
miles service . . . . . . . . . . 10h  30m

SS.17 Swivel pin, remove and fit
new and rebush, one side . . . . 4h --

Find the full sheet here under
MISCELLANEOUS/  "Schedule of Repair Times" http://healey6.com/technical.htm
 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 16:17:02 2013
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17.1371146404.32366.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<8D036790C1E2CA3-1EBC-D24F@webmail-m221.sysops.aol.com>
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 17:03:06 -0400
Thread-index: AQKLL4q49d8Ik+lDY9R5qzpmae1AywGnYRvVAetSjaMCwS0hyZeH9D5A
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

How about if we give this a rest for a day or two so I can concentrate on
other things. As it is now, I am down to once a day review of my emails and
just delete like crazy without reading any more on this subject.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 3:37 PM
To: tfsbj7@mindspring.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things

It's journalists like us who despair of readers like you who don't read
carefully. Note that I made no claim of my credentials, scientific or
otherwise.
What I wrote was that "according to them [Road & Track], antifreeze doesn't
raise the boiling point."
Which is a reasonable interpretation, given that the definition noted that
antifreeze in coolant did lower the freezing point of the coolant.
G.







Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz Club of America
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 16:27:02 2013
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From: "Skip Saunders" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: <editorgary@aol.com>
References: <mailman.17.1371146404.32366.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<8D036790C1E2CA3-1EBC-D24F@webmail-m221.sysops.aol.com>
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 17:30:22 -0400
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Content-Language: en-us
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Actually, I was not trying to discredit you so much . (in a sense you are
merely repeating nonsense.something quite common among everyone).   I was
actually commenting on the Road and Track which was actually professionally
published, with an editor, and with all kinds of "checks" supposedly in
place to prevent poor information from spreading.   (you had no such
"backup" for your posting. so a certain amount of leeway is granted to you.)

 

You are merely the John Q. Public that might believe what he hears/reads
from Fox News.   ( or from NBC for that matter .. Just to be "fair and
balanced")

 

In any case it is Not a reasonable conclusion. maybe that is the difference
between a journalist and a scientist.   Just because the freezing point
lowers does not imply anything about the boiling point.   It is always
worthwhile to go to an original (and creditable) source. apparently Road and
Track is not.

 

Try this instead?

http://www.meglobal.biz/media/product_guides/MEGlobal_MEG.pdf

 

Thanks

-skip-

 

 

From: editorgary@aol.com [mailto:editorgary@aol.com] 
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 3:37 PM
To: tfsbj7@mindspring.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things

 

It's journalists like us who despair of readers like you who don't read
carefully. Note that I made no claim of my credentials, scientific or
otherwise.
What I wrote was that "according to them [Road & Track], antifreeze doesn't
raise the boiling point."
Which is a reasonable interpretation, given that the definition noted that
antifreeze in coolant did lower the freezing point of the coolant.
G.



 

 

Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz Club of America

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Skip Saunders <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: editorgary <editorgary@aol.com>; healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jun 13, 2013 11:54 am
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things

See:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://hellafunctional.com/wp-content/up
loads/2011/11/boilpt.gif&imgrefurl=http://hellafunctional.com/?p%3D629
<http://hellafunctional.com/?p%3D629&h=395> &h=395
&w=620&sz=30&tbnid=UOITpTaaMnxGoM:&tbnh=87&tbnw=137&zoom=1&usg=__e49vC07imee
gXb98FVGWrsxgz3Q=&docid=Pn0JlHBXXYobNM&sa=X&ei=ZBS6UdvIBKns0gGRsIHADA&ved=0C
C8Q9QEwAA&dur=1182
 
I wonder sometimes about the journalistic excellence of some car magazine
writers....maybe there is a semantic difference to be claimed? 
 
(sorry for the long URL, but a quick google of "antifreeze boiling point"
will reveal that indeed (regardless of whatever scientific credentials
claimed by journalists) antifreeze does indeed elevate the boiling point.)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 17:01:46 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 17:37:48 -0400
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ed,
if you want to be EXACT, you wouldn't have written "(it might of 
worked <G>)", when you meant "it might have worked", or even "it 
might've worked".

Just being exact.

Stephen, BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 17:10:56 2013
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	Jun 2013 17:52:20 -0400
From: "Skip Saunders" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "'\" Just Brits \" Shop'" <shop@justbrits.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17.1371146404.32366.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<8D036790C1E2CA3-1EBC-D24F@webmail-m221.sysops.aol.com>
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 17:52:04 -0400
thread-index: AQKLL4q49d8Ik+lDY9R5qzpmae1AywGnYRvVAetSjaMBTYacqpeTn3mA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Ed.... it is nice to have quality backup who can compensate for my
deficiencies...:-)

Thanks
-skip-

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of " Just Brits " Shop
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 3:49 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things

<< On 6/13/2013 1:53 PM, Skip Saunders wrote:
> (sorry for the long URL, but a quick google of "antifreeze boiling point"
> will reveal that indeed...>>
that had you taken a minute to  (PREFERRED) used www.tinyurl.com or at LEAST
EDITED what that MESS of a url (it might of worked <G>), we ALL we be
reading the EXACT article you wanted us to read, Skip.

So Here:            http://tinyurl.com/llsezga

Interesting.    Thanks.

Ed
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7@mindspring.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 17:51:10 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 17:22:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: llennep@verizon.net
To: healey.nut@gmail.com, Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd:  Thermal Switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Charlie,
 
This is what I have done as well.
 
Keith


On 06/12/13, Alan Seigrist wrote:

Hi Charlie -

You fix the otter switch by purchasing a new one, opening the package,
putting the new otter switch in your hand, and throwing it as far as you
can out the window.

These otter switches are notorious, and frankly even when operating have
a tendency to waste a huge amount of fuel. The only way to fix this is to
disconnect the otter switch and link the starter carb (aka Automatic
Enrichment Device) direct to ground with a hand operated switch which cuts
the ground when you don't want it to be on. This was the standard factory
fix, issued by both Austin Healey as well as Jaguar... even the factory
hated the otter switch.

For my Jaguar Mk IX, I have a nice push pull switch installed... works very
well... when it's out, I know the AED is on, and push in to be off. No
need for the AED after to get up to speed, saving fuel.

Best,

Alan



On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 8:14 AM, Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net> wrote:

> Could someone please tell me how to fix and test the thermal switch for
> the starter carb on a BT7? I put mine in boiling water and it still showed
> a short. It's now disassembled but I'm not sure on how to proceed. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 17:55:50 2013
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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 06:52:57 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We used to use Permatex anti-seize on everything when I worked as a pipe
fitters' assistant doing geothermal energy work.  If you know anything
about geothermal steam, it's far more corrosive than sea water.   Permatex
NEVER seized.  Love that stuff.

On Thursday, June 13, 2013, Richard Ewald wrote:

> When I was turning wrenches for a living, this bottle lived on top of my
> tool box.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000AAJTXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371099210&sr=8-1&keywords=permatex+anti+seize
> For a hobbyist, it is a life time supply.  I would still recommend it over
> the smaller tubes for one reason, it has a brush inside the bottle so you
> can apply it on whatever without getting it all over your hands.
> It also has the advantage that it is about the same color as a silver
> painted wire wheel.
> I would not use the copper stuff for that reason.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Greg <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 18:59:05 -0400
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It's on the way and it's Amazon Prime, too!

Greg

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 13, 2013, at 12:57 AM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com> wrote:

> When I was turning wrenches for a living, this bottle lived on top of my
tool box.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000AAJTX
Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371099210&sr=8-1&keywords=permatex+anti+seize
> For a hobbyist, it is a life time supply.  I would still recommend it over
the smaller tubes for one reason, it has a brush inside the bottle so you can
apply it on whatever without getting it all over your hands.
> It also has the advantage that it is about the same color as a silver
painted wire wheel.
> I would not use the copper stuff for that reason.
> Rick
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 5:33 PM, Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> List,
>>
>> Amazon return 60 hits on "permatex anti seize".
>>
>> Which one?
>>
>> Greg
>>
>> --- On Wed, 6/12/13, caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> > From: caddi5@comcast.net <caddi5@comcast.net>
>> > Subject: [Healeys] Wire wheel spline lube
>> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> > Date: Wednesday, June 12, 2013, 5:40 PM
>> > Thanks to all who
>> > replied............................I am going to use
>> > permatex "anti seize"...................little thicker than
>> > grease
>> >
>> >
>> > Mitch
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >
>> > Healeys@autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 18:33:30 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 19:22:04 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: editorgary@aol.com, tfsbj7@mindspring.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry Gary, but "how" you presented it was that others rushed to judgement using an obviously not credible internet source, but you had the answer--complete with THE only valid source----- I took it exactly as did Skip.  Then again, it is difficult to tell from e-mails---so, who knows.

Cheers
tom

---- editorgary@aol.com wrote: 

=============
It's journalists like us who despair of readers like you who don't read
carefully. Note that I made no claim of my credentials, scientific or
otherwise.
What I wrote was that "according to them [Road & Track], antifreeze doesn't
raise the boiling point."
Which is a reasonable interpretation, given that the definition noted that
antifreeze in coolant did lower the freezing point of the coolant.
G.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 19:59:20 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17.1371146404.32366.healeys@autox.team.net><8D036790C1E2CA3-1EBC-D24F@webmail-m221.sysops.aol.com><002501ce6867$5930be90$0b923bb0$@mindspring.com><51BA2213.1040703@justbrits.com>
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 19:49:40 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Language is simply a convention ( see definition #5 at 
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/convention ), the letters or sounds 
we put together work for communication if we agree on what they mean.  I 
always get a kick out of people who say "what it technically means", or "the 
proper usage".  If the sender and the recipient agree on the meaning we have 
effective communication, things mean what the masses agree on what they 
mean.

If I walk into the auto parts store, any auto parts store in the USA, and I 
ask for "anti-freeze" they will point me to the various gallon containers of 
stuff, perhaps ready to use (50/50 with water) or full strength, that 
includes chemicals which help keep the liquid you use in your cooling system 
from freezing, but also from boiling, and it will also have some 
anti-corrosive and lubrication additives, and in fact that is what I and 
most of you (from my part of the world anyway) will expect to get, and if 
you just got something that kept the stuff in your cooling system from 
freezing and no lubricant and your water pump failed you would be very 
unhappy, and if the auto parts guy came back with "well you just said you 
wanted "anti-freeze" so that's all you got", you probably wouldn't feel that 
much better about the whole thing.  So from a practical, and, in my opinion, 
actual standpoint the above described broad definition is what "anti-freeze" 
means here in the states.

I can't speak to the other parts of the world, but I suspect some of the 
terminology might be different, and I also suspect that that is how this 
whole thread got started.

Greg Lemon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 20:55:00 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 21:49:37 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Healey List List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I always got a giggle out of this one...

Wiring, disconnect and remove all wiring, fit new front
and rear harness complete, reassemble, and test . . . . . . 12

MATE YOU'RE DREAMIN' !!!

I'll take my hat off to anyone who can do that job in 12 hours!!

Michael S


On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 4:21 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Found a copy of the BMC flat rate manual for the BJ7 on John Sims'
> excellent
> Healey6 site
>
> Here's some times to try for on your next job:
>
> Engine and
> gearbox, remove from frame, fit replacement
> power unit, change over all
> ancillary equipment, including
> cleaning and adjusting carburetters,
> distributor, and
> air cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . 11h  30m
>
> BDC.41 Door
> window winder assembly, remove and refit or fit new . . . . 3h  15m
>
> 12,000
> miles service . . . . . . . . . . 10h  30m
>
> SS.17 Swivel pin, remove and fit
> new and rebush, one side . . . . 4h --
>
> Find the full sheet here under
> MISCELLANEOUS/  "Schedule of Repair Times"
> http://healey6.com/technical.htm
>
> Rick
>
>
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
> http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Boiling Point of Ethylene Glycol Solutions
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The most list activity in a long time. Had to change the thread subject.
Try this:
Boiling Points Ethylene Glycol Solutions


Boiling Point

Ethylene Glycol/ Water Solution
(% by volume)
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100


Temperature
(oF)
212
214
216
220
220
225
232
245
260
288
386

(oC)
100
101.1
102.2
104.4
104.4
107.2
111.1
118
127
142
197


However note that:

The specific heat capacity of ethylene glycol based water solutions are less
than the specific heat capacity of clean water. For a heat transfer system
(radiator) with ethylene glycol the circulated volume must be increased
compared to a system with clean water.
In a 50% solution with operational temperatures above 36 oF the specific heat
capacity is decreased approximately 20%. The reduced heat capacity must be
compensated by circulating more fluid.

Just sayin'  :)
Aloha
Perry
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	<8D036790C1E2CA3-1EBC-D24F@webmail-m221.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 20:15:28 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: editorgary@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary,
As a professional in the automotive repair business for the last 46 years
(as of August) I love people that argue that I don't know what I am talking
about.  OK, I'll play.
That R&T definition was out of date as of 2000, and oh by the way what the
hell is glycolo?  The word is glycol.
There are several different types of antifreeze on the market.  The stuff
GM uses is not the same as what Ford uses or Chrysler, or Mercedes for that
matter.  Their definition mentions none of that.  Here is a fairly simple
explanation of some of the different types of coolant on the market today. *
http://tinyurl.com/mzu2usu*
As far as who sez
Well there are these guys: *http://tinyurl.com/kc2zkrt
*
*Or maybe you have heard of this family: **
http://tinyurl.com/or-this-family-business
*
*These guys are tight with Ferrari I hear: **http://tinyurl.com/kuh9te9
*
*Here is another small company you might have heard of:  **
http://tinyurl.com/mx6cbyc*
Oh look a 3 pointed star:  *http://tinyurl.com/mlj9f46*
I can keep this up all night.  Googling antifreeze/coolant brings up
848,000 hits and who knows how many pictures.
I stand by my comment that antifreeze and coolant are the same thing.
the ball is now in  your side of the court.
Rick



On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 11:14 AM, <editorgary@aol.com> wrote:

> As an editor (of a car magazine), I just love these semantic battles:
> Are antifreeze and coolant the same thing by different names? And who sez?
>
> One person's quick-and-dirty wikipedish online source says they're the
> same.
>
>
> BUT, my primary reference for this kind of information, the Road & Track
> Automotive Dictionary (John Dinkel, Bentley Publishers, 2000), says:
>
> "Antifreeze: Any of several substances (commonly liquids and typically
> ethylene glycolo) mixed with water and added to a car's cooling system to
> lower the freezing point of the coolant and to inhibit formation of rust
> and
> other deposits."
>
> Note that according to them, the two terms are obviously different, and
> also
> note, according to them, Antifreeze DOES NOT RAISE THE BOILING POINT OF THE
> COOLANT. Only something like Water Wetter can actually do that.
>
> So there, for what it's worth.
>
> Gary
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
> Editor-at-large, Austin-Healey Magazine
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 22:18:06 2013
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	<CAB3i7L+xWrjP9AZVcG1ccayX9-oN0O2YVra8Zzaa2Fno52TSoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 20:25:22 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The engine R & R time is actually pretty good.  Back in the 80's I only got
about 14 hours to do a Volvo Diesel remove REBUILD, and reinstall.  (lost
my ass on those)
3.25 hours for a window regulator?  Gravy.
12K service for 10.5?  Line them up.
Rebush for 4 hours?  OUCH!


On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 6:49 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> I always got a giggle out of this one...
>
> Wiring, disconnect and remove all wiring, fit new front
> and rear harness complete, reassemble, and test . . . . . . 12
>
> MATE YOU'RE DREAMIN' !!!
>
> I'll take my hat off to anyone who can do that job in 12 hours!!
>
> Michael S
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 4:21 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Found a copy of the BMC flat rate manual for the BJ7 on John Sims'
> > excellent
> > Healey6 site
> >
> > Here's some times to try for on your next job:
> >
> > Engine and
> > gearbox, remove from frame, fit replacement
> > power unit, change over all
> > ancillary equipment, including
> > cleaning and adjusting carburetters,
> > distributor, and
> > air cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . 11h  30m
> >
> > BDC.41 Door
> > window winder assembly, remove and refit or fit new . . . . 3h  15m
> >
> > 12,000
> > miles service . . . . . . . . . . 10h  30m
> >
> > SS.17 Swivel pin, remove and fit
> > new and rebush, one side . . . . 4h --
> >
> > Find the full sheet here under
> > MISCELLANEOUS/  "Schedule of Repair Times"
> > http://healey6.com/technical.htm
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> > "Madman in a death machine"
> > Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
> > http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Michael Salter
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 13:28:59 +1000
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: "editorgary@aol.com" <editorgary@aol.com>,
	"healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi all,

Let me clarify my point that ethlene glycol is not as efficient a coolant as
water...

Here's a reference;

"The specific heat capacity of ethylene glycol based water solutions are less
than the specific heat capacity of clean water. For a heat transfer system
with ethylene glycol the circulated volume must be increased compared to a
system with clean water."

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html

There is even a chart, which indicates running 50% ethlene glycol as a
"coolant" requires an increase in your coolant capacity of 14%, assuming your
engine is running at around 185 F

My owners handbook refers to using water as a coolant, and only adding ethlene
glycol as an antifreeze in freezing conditions. But what would the blokes that
built the cooling system know??
I think most people who have owned Healeys for a while, in a hot climate, not
subject to freezing conditions, have realised they have less overheating
related issues with water and some kind of anti corrosion protection, than
they do with 50% or so ethylene glycol.
I solved all my bugeye sprite cooling issues when I changed back to water 30
years ago. I'd put 60% ethylene glycol in it to drive down to the snowy
mountains. It overheated all the way there, and all the way back.... No
problems when I switched back to water. And yes, it was a heavily modified
sprite, 1220cc, 1.5 in SU's etc
Best
Chris
Sent from my iPhone

On 14/06/2013, at 5:02 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> Well---there you have it-----your quick and dirty is better that others:)
>
>
> ---- editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> =============
> As an editor (of a car magazine), I just love these semantic battles:
> Are antifreeze and coolant the same thing by different names? And who sez?
>
> One person's quick-and-dirty wikipedish online source says they're the
same.
>
>
> BUT, my primary reference for this kind of information, the Road & Track
> Automotive Dictionary (John Dinkel, Bentley Publishers, 2000), says:
>
> "Antifreeze: Any of several substances (commonly liquids and typically
> ethylene glycolo) mixed with water and added to a car's cooling system to
> lower the freezing point of the coolant and to inhibit formation of rust
and
> other deposits."
>
> Note that according to them, the two terms are obviously different, and
also
> note, according to them, Antifreeze DOES NOT RAISE THE BOILING POINT OF THE
> COOLANT. Only something like Water Wetter can actually do that.
>
> So there, for what it's worth.
>
> Gary
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 20:44:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey for sale?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

List
    There is a car for sale at "the Beverly Hills Car Club" site.  They
say it is a West coast car, red 100-6.  Anyone know history on this?  I have
been asked to look at it for a potential buyer.  Have a look. 
Thanks
Ray
Juncal
http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1958-austin-healey-bn4--c-1876.htm
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 20:49:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Roesle <lostboys65@yahoo.com>
To: "editorgary@aol.com" <editorgary@aol.com>, "tfsbj7@mindspring.com"
	<tfsbj7@mindspring.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Much ado about nothing, on all sides.  Take the arcane cat fights elsewhere
and save us all the space and time for more important matters.


John Roesle
Shawnee, KS. 66227
913-687-1654
lostboys65@yahoo.com
________________________________
 From: "editorgary@aol.com"
<editorgary@aol.com>
To: tfsbj7@mindspring.com; healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Thursday, June 13, 2013 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over
Silly Things
  

It's journalists like us who despair of readers like you who
don't read
carefully. Note that I made no claim of my credentials, scientific
or
otherwise.
What I wrote was that "according to them [Road & Track],
antifreeze doesn't
raise the boiling point."
Which is a reasonable
interpretation, given that the definition noted that
antifreeze in coolant did
lower the freezing point of the coolant.
G.







Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz Club of America
-----Original Message-----
From: Skip Saunders <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To:
editorgary <editorgary@aol.com>; healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu,
Jun 13, 2013 11:54 am
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly
Things


See:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://hellafunctional.com/wp-content/up
loads/2011/11/boilpt.gif&imgrefurl=http://hellafunctional.com/?p%3D629&h=395
&w=620&sz=30&tbnid=UOITpTaaMnxGoM:&tbnh=87&tbnw=137&zoom=1&usg=__e49vC07imee
gXb98FVGWrsxgz3Q=&docid=Pn0JlHBXXYobNM&sa=X&ei=ZBS6UdvIBKns0gGRsIHADA&ved=0C
C8Q9QEwAA&dur=1182

I wonder sometimes about the journalistic excellence of
some car magazine
writers....maybe there is a semantic difference to be
claimed?

(sorry for the long URL, but a quick google of "antifreeze boiling
point"
will reveal that indeed (regardless of whatever scientific credentials
claimed by journalists) antifreeze does indeed elevate the boiling point.)
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 22:58:17 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 23:49:59 -0400
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I remember thinking as I put my new harness on a stripped 
frame..."Thank God I don't have to do this on an assembled car!"

Stephen

>I always got a giggle out of this one...
>
>Wiring, disconnect and remove all wiring, fit new front
>and rear harness complete, reassemble, and test . . . . . . 12
>
>MATE YOU'RE DREAMIN' !!!
>
>I'll take my hat off to anyone who can do that job in 12 hours!!
>
>Michael S
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References: <8D036BB7EC430EA-21F8-EEB5@webmail-d257.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 20:52:11 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: healeyguy@aol.com
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Boiling Point of Ethylene Glycol Solutions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If I confess to crimes I never committed will you all please stop!

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Jun 13, 2013 7:10 PM, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:

> The most list activity in a long time. Had to change the thread subject.
> Try this:
> Boiling Points Ethylene Glycol Solutions
>
>
> Boiling Point
>
> Ethylene Glycol/ Water Solution
> (% by volume)
> 0
> 10
> 20
> 30
> 40
> 50
> 60
> 70
> 80
> 90
> 100
>
>
> Temperature
> (oF)
> 212
> 214
> 216
> 220
> 220
> 225
> 232
> 245
> 260
> 288
> 386
>
> (oC)
> 100
> 101.1
> 102.2
> 104.4
> 104.4
> 107.2
> 111.1
> 118
> 127
> 142
> 197
>
>
> However note that:
>
> The specific heat capacity of ethylene glycol based water solutions are
> less
> than the specific heat capacity of clean water. For a heat transfer system
> (radiator) with ethylene glycol the circulated volume must be increased
> compared to a system with clean water.
> In a 50% solution with operational temperatures above 36 oF the specific
> heat
> capacity is decreased approximately 20%. The reduced heat capacity must be
> compensated by circulating more fluid.
>
> Just sayin'  :)
> Aloha
> Perry
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 00:43:11 -0400 (EDT)
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My argument is that this is a dumb argument -- that was the point I was trying
to make from the start. What you call it DOESN'T MATTER. What matters is that
you use it, you use it properly, you flush the radiator at reasonable
intervals and replace the coolant/antifreeze/radiator liquid/whatever
following the manufacturer's instructions and good common sense -- no
miracles, no ignorance, no magic potions, no old wives' tales told by shade
tree mechanics over the counter of the long-gone auto parts store.

I think our work here is done.





Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz Club of America





-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: editorgary <editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jun 13, 2013 8:15 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things






Gary,
As a professional in the automotive repair business for the last 46 years (as
of August) I love people that argue that I don't know what I am talking about.
OK, I'll play.
That R&T definition was out of date as of 2000, and oh by the way what the
hell is glycolo?  The word is glycol.

There are several different types of antifreeze on the market.  The stuff GM
uses is not the same as what Ford uses or Chrysler, or Mercedes for that
matter.  Their definition mentions none of that.  Here is a fairly simple
explanation of some of the different types of coolant on the market today.
http://tinyurl.com/mzu2usu
As far as who sez
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From: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Full-Name: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 14:11:42 GMT
To: eyera3@gmail.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Boiling Point of Ethylene Glycol Solutions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Now you know what it is like in Congress!!

---------- Original Message ----------
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: healeyguy@aol.com
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Boiling Point of Ethylene Glycol Solutions
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 20:52:11 -0700

If I confess to crimes I never committed will you all please stop!

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Jun 13, 2013 7:10 PM, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:

> The most list activity in a long time. Had to change the thread subject.
> Try this:
> Boiling Points Ethylene Glycol Solutions
>
>
> Boiling Point
>
> Ethylene Glycol/ Water Solution
> (% by volume)
> 0
> 10
> 20
> 30
> 40
> 50
> 60
> 70
> 80
> 90
> 100
>
>
> Temperature
> (oF)
> 212
> 214
> 216
> 220
> 220
> 225
> 232
> 245
> 260
> 288
> 386
>
> (oC)
> 100
> 101.1
> 102.2
> 104.4
> 104.4
> 107.2
> 111.1
> 118
> 127
> 142
> 197
>
>
> However note that:
>
> The specific heat capacity of ethylene glycol based water solutions are
> less
> than the specific heat capacity of clean water. For a heat transfer system
> (radiator) with ethylene glycol the circulated volume must be increased
> compared to a system with clean water.
> In a 50% solution with operational temperatures above 36 oF the specific
> heat
> capacity is decreased approximately 20%. The reduced heat capacity must be
> compensated by circulating more fluid.
>
> Just sayin'  :)
> Aloha
> Perry
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 14 19:37:54 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 00:24:20 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8D036BB7EC430EA-21F8-EEB5@webmail-d257.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Boiling Point of Ethylene Glycol Solutions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Op 14-6-2013 4:10, healeyguy@aol.com schreef:
> In a 50% solution with operational temperatures above 36 oF the specific heat
> capacity is decreased approximately 20%. The reduced heat capacity must be
> compensated by circulating more fluid.
Or you can increase the working temperature of the engine by fitting a 
hotter thermostat, thus increasing the delta T and heat transfer.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL
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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 18:24:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Black specs on the trunk lid.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I get black specs on the trunk near the exhaust.

The plugs a tan, not black.

I just found out the dashpot dampers were for a Tri-Carb.

I'm wondering if the Tri-Carb dampers made the carbs run too rich on acceleration and that's why I get the black spots.

I have new/correct dampers, but the car is in the shop, so I haven't had time to test out the new dampers.

Greg 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 14 20:04:45 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Ray Juncal'" <healeyray@yahoo.com>, "'List Healey'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1371181449.85124.YahooMailNeo@web124505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 17:14:21 +1000
Thread-Index: AQKe0Z+DfKgaXaI5espU/KK+mea76JeT+apA
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey for sale?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Ray

Looks good for the $$$ being asked.

Just a couple of things drastically wrong - no front flashes and the
steering wheel is on the wrong side.

To be safe make sure you check whether it has coolant or anti-freeze in the
radiator.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

Ps. Did you receive the Donington Riley pics I sent you?

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ray Juncal
Sent: Friday, 14 June 2013 1:44 PM
To: List Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Healey for sale?

List
    There is a car for sale at "the Beverly Hills Car Club" site.  They say
it is a West coast car, red 100-6.  Anyone know history on this?  I have
been asked to look at it for a potential buyer.  Have a look. 
Thanks
Ray
Juncal
http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1958-austin-healey-bn4--c-1876.htm
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 14 20:16:54 2013
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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 19:14:45 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Black specs on the trunk lid.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Black spots are usually watery soot spat out the exhaust when the engine and exhaust are cold (I have a few on some pant 
legs).  Why they end up on the trunk I don't know, unless your tailpipe is too short; i.e. it doesn't extend beyond the 
bumper.

Bob


On 6/14/2013 6:24 PM, Greg Mandas wrote:
> I get black specs on the trunk near the exhaust.
>
> The plugs a tan, not black.
>
> I just found out the dashpot dampers were for a Tri-Carb.
>
> I'm wondering if the Tri-Carb dampers made the carbs run too rich on acceleration and that's why I get the black spots.
>
> I have new/correct dampers, but the car is in the shop, so I haven't had time to test out the new dampers.
>
> Greg
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 14 20:19:24 2013
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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 19:17:22 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

re: "I stand by my comment that antifreeze and coolant are the same thing."

So, if you run pure water--an effective coolant, we all seem to agree--in your cooling system then water is antifreeze?

Dang, why have I been paying $15/gal for Prestone?

Bob


On 6/13/2013 8:15 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
> Gary,
> As a professional in the automotive repair business for the last 46 years
> (as of August) I love people that argue that I don't know what I am talking
> about.  OK, I'll play.
> That R&T definition was out of date as of 2000, and oh by the way what the
> hell is glycolo?  The word is glycol.
> There are several different types of antifreeze on the market.  The stuff
> GM uses is not the same as what Ford uses or Chrysler, or Mercedes for that
> matter.  Their definition mentions none of that.  Here is a fairly simple
> explanation of some of the different types of coolant on the market today. *
> http://tinyurl.com/mzu2usu*
> As far as who sez
> Well there are these guys: *http://tinyurl.com/kc2zkrt
> *
> *Or maybe you have heard of this family: **
> http://tinyurl.com/or-this-family-business
> *
> *These guys are tight with Ferrari I hear: **http://tinyurl.com/kuh9te9
> *
> *Here is another small company you might have heard of:  **
> http://tinyurl.com/mx6cbyc*
> Oh look a 3 pointed star:  *http://tinyurl.com/mlj9f46*
> I can keep this up all night.  Googling antifreeze/coolant brings up
> 848,000 hits and who knows how many pictures.
> I stand by my comment that antifreeze and coolant are the same thing.
> the ball is now in  your side of the court.
> Rick
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 14 21:44:06 2013
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From: Bob Yule <autofarm@xplornet.ca>
To: "HEALEY LIST" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 12:35:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] PROBLEM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

    OH wise ones,we have a 100 with an aluminum head, good compression, lots
of spark, and fuel pressure is 3.5psi. float levels are where they should be.
It will start cold.  It will not start very well hot.  But the part that has
us scratching is this, when the start button is pushed it just cranks over and
over, as soon as the button is released it fires and starts. Any ideas? We are
running out of things to check.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 14 22:32:00 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Richard Ewald'" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>, "'Michael Salter'"
	<michaelsalter@gmail.com>
References: <1371154861.97333.YahooMailNeo@web124702.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><CAB3i7L+xWrjP9AZVcG1ccayX9-oN0O2YVra8Zzaa2Fno52TSoQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<CACOF-TqJh=oXxACGNYdR2-UKedR5N-bEt==Nx2Cs3g6-MqY5AQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 06:38:16 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac5otYuNzBW3UTGBTHGYXH6yPNWHFwARkc1g
Cc: 'Healey List List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just billed 12.6hrs for a timing cover seal on a TR3... No fun at all when
half the captive nuts are gone...

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Ewald
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 9:25 PM
To: Michael Salter
Cc: Healey List List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)

The engine R & R time is actually pretty good.  Back in the 80's I only got
about 14 hours to do a Volvo Diesel remove REBUILD, and reinstall.  (lost
my ass on those)
3.25 hours for a window regulator?  Gravy.
12K service for 10.5?  Line them up.
Rebush for 4 hours?  OUCH!


On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 6:49 PM, Michael Salter
<michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> I always got a giggle out of this one...
>
> Wiring, disconnect and remove all wiring, fit new front
> and rear harness complete, reassemble, and test . . . . . . 12
>
> MATE YOU'RE DREAMIN' !!!
>
> I'll take my hat off to anyone who can do that job in 12 hours!!
>
> Michael S
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 13, 2013 at 4:21 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Found a copy of the BMC flat rate manual for the BJ7 on John Sims'
> > excellent
> > Healey6 site
> >
> > Here's some times to try for on your next job:
> >
> > Engine and
> > gearbox, remove from frame, fit replacement
> > power unit, change over all
> > ancillary equipment, including
> > cleaning and adjusting carburetters,
> > distributor, and
> > air cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . 11h  30m
> >
> > BDC.41 Door
> > window winder assembly, remove and refit or fit new . . . . 3h  15m
> >
> > 12,000
> > miles service . . . . . . . . . . 10h  30m
> >
> > SS.17 Swivel pin, remove and fit
> > new and rebush, one side . . . . 4h --
> >
> > Find the full sheet here under
> > MISCELLANEOUS/  "Schedule of Repair Times"
> > http://healey6.com/technical.htm
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> > "Madman in a death machine"
> > Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
> > http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Michael Salter
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 14 23:24:44 2013
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From: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
To: "editorgary@aol.com" <editorgary@aol.com>
Date: 14 Jun 2013 10:08:45 +0200
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary,

English is not my native language, but I dare to say that the thesis "antifreeze doesn't raise the boiling point" is far from being a reasonable interpretation of the definition "antifreeze in coolant does lower the freezing point of the coolant".

It's readers like us who despair of editors like you who don't do correct deductive reasoning (tongue-in-cheek).

Eric

It's journalists like us who despair of readers like you who don't read
carefully. Note that I made no claim of my credentials, scientific or
otherwise.
What I wrote was that "according to them [Road & Track], antifreeze doesn't
raise the boiling point."
Which is a reasonable interpretation, given that the definition noted that
antifreeze in coolant did lower the freezing point of the coolant.
G.

.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 00:16:57 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Forum Healeys'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 06:58:23 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac5pjAdyQevUaeGjRyCphHND61YwmA==
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Subject: [Healeys] Tyre pressures
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My MkII BT7's handbook suggests 20lbs, front, and 25lbs rear. Or 25 & 30 for
"maximum performance speeds".

But that was for radials?

What do you guys suggest for a long motorway run at 65-75 mph? With  driver
and one passenger plus a load of spares and tools?

Thanks,

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 01:00:40 2013
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  (PDT)
References: <F486A79EB3714622B1F4F44F7960BED0@OFFICE>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 07:51:17 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Cc: HEALEY LIST <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] PROBLEM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Not enough spark energy. When cranking the starter takes the energy, when
You stop cranking - and lucky - the engine turns a bit and the next spark
starts the engine.
Check the current at the battery when cranking. It should not drop too much.
If thats ok, try with copper leads with non resisitor type plugs or try a
stronger coil.

Gergo




2013/6/14 Bob Yule <autofarm@xplornet.ca>

>     OH wise ones,we have a 100 with an aluminum head, good compression,
> lots
> of spark, and fuel pressure is 3.5psi. float levels are where they should
> be.
> It will start cold.  It will not start very well hot.  But the part that
> has
> us scratching is this, when the start button is pushed it just cranks over
> and
> over, as soon as the button is released it fires and starts. Any ideas? We
> are
> running out of things to check.
> Cheers.......Bob
> Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 01:23:36 2013
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References: <51bc0c66.c3fb440a.272e.ffffa105SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 08:20:58 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre pressures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For regular road use I run around the 28-30 lbs range.

Derek


On Sat, Jun 15, 2013 at 6:58 AM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> wrote:

> My MkII BT7's handbook suggests 20lbs, front, and 25lbs rear. Or 25 & 30
> for
> "maximum performance speeds".
>
> But that was for radials?
>
> What do you guys suggest for a long motorway run at 65-75 mph? With  driver
> and one passenger plus a load of spares and tools?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 01:29:48 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 09:27:53 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1371259465.12783.YahooMailClassic@web162906.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Black specs on the trunk lid.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On short runs and during warming up the exhaust will spray water with 
soot condensed from the exhaust gasses. This is probably what has 
settled on the bodywork near the exhaust. Perfectly normal.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 15-6-2013 3:24, Greg Mandas schreef:
> I get black specs on the trunk near the exhaust.
>
> The plugs a tan, not black.
>
> I just found out the dashpot dampers were for a Tri-Carb.
>
> I'm wondering if the Tri-Carb dampers made the carbs run too rich on acceleration and that's why I get the black spots.
>
> I have new/correct dampers, but the car is in the shop, so I haven't had time to test out the new dampers.
>
> Greg
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6411 - datum van uitgifte: 06/14/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 01:36:09 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 09:33:45 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <F486A79EB3714622B1F4F44F7960BED0@OFFICE>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] PROBLEM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Did you change the coil recently? If so did you use the correct one?
Did you check the tightness of the battery cable clamps and engine earth 
strap?
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Op 14-6-2013 18:35, Bob Yule schreef:
>      OH wise ones,we have a 100 with an aluminum head, good compression, lots
> of spark, and fuel pressure is 3.5psi. float levels are where they should be.
> It will start cold.  It will not start very well hot.  But the part that has
> us scratching is this, when the start button is pushed it just cranks over and
> over, as soon as the button is released it fires and starts. Any ideas? We are
> running out of things to check.
> Cheers.......Bob
> Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6411 - datum van uitgifte: 06/14/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 01:43:33 2013
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From: andy pole <ampole@hotmail.com>
To: <autofarm@cyg.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 07:37:28 +0000
References: <F486A79EB3714622B1F4F44F7960BED0@OFFICE>
	FILETIME=[300D52F0:01CE699B]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] PROBLEM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob
Sounds like the starter or button is at fault and pulling too much current not
allowing any to the coil, when you release the residual current provides power
for coil to fire up. Could also be a bad connection in the above cct.

> From: autofarm@xplornet.ca
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 12:35:44 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] PROBLEM
>
>     OH wise ones,we have a 100 with an aluminum head, good compression,
lots
> of spark, and fuel pressure is 3.5psi. float levels are where they should
be.
> It will start cold.  It will not start very well hot.  But the part that
has
> us scratching is this, when the start button is pushed it just cranks over
and
> over, as soon as the button is released it fires and starts. Any ideas? We
are
> running out of things to check.
> Cheers.......Bob
> Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ampole@hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 01:49:02 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 09:29:57 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.17.1371146404.32366.healeys@autox.team.net>
	<8D036790C1E2CA3-1EBC-D24F@webmail-m221.sysops.aol.com>
	<CACOF-Tq1CrnDsn6_=PggH3fmJpBQNrmopt+h3GrGYQ6N45Qk3A@mail.gmail.com>
	<51BBCEB2.4020002@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Semantic Battles over Silly Things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had given up, but I like this one.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 15-6-2013 4:17, Bob Spidell schreef:
> re: "I stand by my comment that antifreeze and coolant are the same 
> thing."
>
> So, if you run pure water--an effective coolant, we all seem to 
> agree--in your cooling system then water is antifreeze?
>
> Dang, why have I been paying $15/gal for Prestone?
>
> Bob 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 02:17:57 2013
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From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>, <healeyray@yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.20.1371262734.2541.healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 10:14:18 +0200
Thread-Index: AQHzXXWxb6KRm/NZ6SMHh4Y7tmkQX5jshEpg
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 305
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ray,

Is this a ivory white? I might have seen it.

I was in California few weeks ago and actually looked at a car at Beverly
Hills Club (Jaguar xk150).
My observations were as follows:
- negotiate. I reduced the price from 54k to 46k.
- ask for a title. Although the sale as agreed, BHC was not able to produce
a title for the car and turned down the sale after 6 weeks of waiting.


Regards,

Tadek





Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 20:44:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey for sale?
Message-ID:
	<1371181449.85124.YahooMailNeo@web124505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

List
    There is a car for sale at "the Beverly Hills Car Club" site.  They say
it is a West coast car, red 100-6.  Anyone know history on this?  I have
been asked to look at it for a potential buyer.  Have a look. 
Thanks
Ray
Juncal
http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1958-austin-healey-bn4--c-1876.htm


------------------------------
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 03:21:12 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 17:17:35 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Bob Yule <autofarm@cyg.net>
Cc: HEALEY LIST <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] PROBLEM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like a bad connection or bad ground somewhere.

Check wiring and grounding straps.


On Saturday, June 15, 2013, Bob Yule wrote:

>     OH wise ones,we have a 100 with an aluminum head, good compression,
> lots
> of spark, and fuel pressure is 3.5psi. float levels are where they should
> be.
> It will start cold.  It will not start very well hot.  But the part that
> has
> us scratching is this, when the start button is pushed it just cranks over
> and
> over, as soon as the button is released it fires and starts. Any ideas? We
> are
> running out of things to check.
> Cheers.......Bob
> Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 04:18:07 2013
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	-0700 (PDT)
From: Bob Yule <autofarm@xplornet.ca>
To: "HEALEY LIST" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 06:18:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Problem follow up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

    Thanks to all who responded.  However, my post took over 12 hours to
appear on the list and by then the car was fixed and gone.  The problem turned
out to be the coil.  We checked all the circuits and at idle everything was
good.  Once the coil got hot and got some higher rpm to deal with it just
couldn't cope.  This was a recent (two years) coil so didn't raise too much
interest.  Coils do not go bad very often, but once we changed this one,
problem solved.
Cheers.......Bob
Check out our web site www.autofarm.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 06:00:35 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 7:56:44 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>,  Simon Lachlan
	<simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: Forum Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre pressures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I run 34 all around.  

tom

---- Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
For regular road use I run around the 28-30 lbs range.

Derek


On Sat, Jun 15, 2013 at 6:58 AM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> wrote:

> My MkII BT7's handbook suggests 20lbs, front, and 25lbs rear. Or 25 & 30
> for
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 7:59:48 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Black specs on the trunk lid.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Funny story---well unless it happened to you-----------We were at a Brit car show and a friend got in his BJ8 to start it so someone could hear the engine---------his wife had parked herself in a chair ----directly behind the exhaust pipes.  Guess what she looked like after the engine started?

She was not happy---neither was he:)


---- 
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From: Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 07:59:30 -0500
To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 305
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had the same problem with bhcc a few months ago on another car. No title
after 3 months. Dissapointing...

Sent from my iPad

On 15/06/2013, at 3:14 a.m., "Tadeusz Malkiewicz"
<Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl> wrote:

> Ray,
>
> Is this a ivory white? I might have seen it.
>
> I was in California few weeks ago and actually looked at a car at Beverly
> Hills Club (Jaguar xk150).
> My observations were as follows:
> - negotiate. I reduced the price from 54k to 46k.
> - ask for a title. Although the sale as agreed, BHC was not able to produce
> a title for the car and turned down the sale after 6 weeks of waiting.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Tadek
>
>
>
>
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 20:44:09 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
> To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey for sale?
> Message-ID:
>    <1371181449.85124.YahooMailNeo@web124505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> List
>    There is a car for sale at "the Beverly Hills Car Club" site.  They say
> it is a West coast car, red 100-6.  Anyone know history on this?  I have
> been asked to look at it for a potential buyer.  Have a look.
> Thanks
> Ray
> Juncal
> http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1958-austin-healey-bn4--c-1876.htm
>
>
> ------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 07:54:37 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 09:52:07 -0400
From: Richard Berman <richberman@verizon.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] extra remote unit bar anyone
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am looking for the horizontal bar which connects the inner remote door
opener to the door lock on my 57 BN4.  I seem to only have one.  Also, on
the one I have the bar is not connected to the inner remote unit assembly.
 Anyone know what type of fastener to use here.
thanks,
Rich Berman
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 08:30:34 2013
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References: <1371155930.60038.YahooMailNeo@web124703.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 00:25:32 +1000
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Schedule of Repair Times
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My personal favourite?
The original Sprite Schedule of repair times.
Item BD2. Basically, remove everything, and replace into a new  Bodyshell.
Then road test and adjust. 62 hours.
If anyone can remove everything from a  Bugeye Sprite, and refit it to a fully
restored Bodyshell, in 62 hours, a mate of mine will keep you employed for the
next week and a bit... and you don't even have to remove anything....

Sent from my iPhone

On 14/06/2013, at 6:38 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Found a copy of the BMC flat rate manual for the BJ7 on John Sims'
excellent
> Healey6 site
>
> Here's some times to try for on your next job:
>
> Engine and
> gearbox, remove from frame, fit replacement
> power unit, change over all
> ancillary equipment, including
> cleaning and adjusting carburetters,
> distributor, and
> air cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . 11h  30m
>
> BDC.41 Door
> window winder assembly, remove and refit or fit new . . . . 3h  15m
>
> 12,000
> miles service . . . . . . . . . . 10h  30m
>
> SS.17 Swivel pin, remove and fit
> new and rebush, one side . . . . 4h --
>
> Find the full sheet here under
> MISCELLANEOUS/  "Schedule of Repair Times" http://healey6.com/technical.htm
>
> Rick
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 08:47:09 2013
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	<E1F8D510-7E42-4D69-BB86-DA6AA6A67F2F@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 07:37:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Schedule of Repair Times
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Took me about 10 years to do that on my Bugeye.

 
Rick


"Madman in a death
machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Chris Dimmock
<austin.healey@gmail.com>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> 
Cc: Healey
List List <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2013 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Schedule of Repair Times
 

My personal favourite?
The
original Sprite Schedule of repair times. 
Item BD2. Basically, remove
everything, and replace into a new  Bodyshell. 
Then road test and adjust. 62
hours. 
If anyone can remove everything from a  Bugeye Sprite, and refit it to
a fully restored Bodyshell, in 62 hours, a mate of mine will keep you employed
for the next week and a bit... and you don't even have to remove anything....
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 09:23:17 2013
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, <healeyray@yahoo.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 15:20:21 +0000
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	<001901ce68ce$cbd7eb00$6387c100$@tpg.com.au>
	FILETIME=[D9D803D0:01CE69DB]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey for sale?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Carbs appear to be HD8s. I wonder if it has a 29D engine. Good for the road,
not so much for originality if you're into such things...

> From: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> To: healeyray@yahoo.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 17:14:21 +1000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey for sale?
>
> G'day Ray
>
> Looks good for the $$$ being asked.
>
> Just a couple of things drastically wrong - no front flashes and the
> steering wheel is on the wrong side.
>
> To be safe make sure you check whether it has coolant or anti-freeze in the
> radiator.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> Ps. Did you receive the Donington Riley pics I sent you?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Ray Juncal
> Sent: Friday, 14 June 2013 1:44 PM
> To: List Healey
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey for sale?
>
> List
>     There is a car for sale at "the Beverly Hills Car Club" site.  They say
> it is a West coast car, red 100-6.  Anyone know history on this?  I have
> been asked to look at it for a potential buyer.  Have a look.
> Thanks
> Ray
> Juncal
> http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1958-austin-healey-bn4--c-1876.htm
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 10:17:42 2013
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References: <1371181449.85124.YahooMailNeo@web124505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<001901ce68ce$cbd7eb00$6387c100$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 09:14:27 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey for sale?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Could be me, but it looks like hd8 carbs and choke set up...

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Jun 14, 2013 12:14 AM, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> G'day Ray
>
> Looks good for the $$$ being asked.
>
> Just a couple of things drastically wrong - no front flashes and the
> steering wheel is on the wrong side.
>
> To be safe make sure you check whether it has coolant or anti-freeze in the
> radiator.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> Ps. Did you receive the Donington Riley pics I sent you?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Ray Juncal
> Sent: Friday, 14 June 2013 1:44 PM
> To: List Healey
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey for sale?
>
> List
>     There is a car for sale at "the Beverly Hills Car Club" site.  They say
> it is a West coast car, red 100-6.  Anyone know history on this?  I have
> been asked to look at it for a potential buyer.  Have a look.
> Thanks
> Ray
> Juncal
> http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1958-austin-healey-bn4--c-1876.htm
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 11:31:43 2013
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User-Agent: Microsoft-MacOutlook/14.10.0.110310
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 13:24:43 -0400
From: "Thomas J. Morrione" <tjmorrio@colby.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: I can't resist: now the top topics are:
Subject: [Healeys] I can't resist: now the top topics are:
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've added the "Is it coolant or is it not coolant" discussion to: 1. "What
IS the real Healey Blue color?" 2. "What is the best engine oil and
weight?"3. "Which side is the LEFT side of the car?"  FWIW, I actually do
enjoy these discussions. Undoubtedly I've left out out other "classic"
topics?

Seriously, I've learned a great deal from each of the exchanges. All I
really knew about coolants other than water is that they should be disposed
of "properly." And, we all know what that means . . .
Tom
'65 BJ8
'67 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 13:35:59 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 13:34:55 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:20.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/20.0 SeaMonkey/2.17.1
To: HEALEY LIST <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <A1E302EA6C674351B6402C98C732DFB9@OFFICE>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Problem follow up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob Yule wrote:
>      Thanks to all who responded.  However, my post took over 12 hours to
> appear on the list and by then the car was fixed and gone.

Yes, I am having network issues, sometimes it works, sometimes
it doesn't.  Just got back from British Field Day here in Salt Lake.
Several Bugeyes, didn't see any big Healeys.

Anyway, I hope to have the network dropouts resolved, assuming it doesn't
require purchasing parts not available on weekends.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 13:48:48 2013
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References: <CDE21B9B.37A03%tjmorrio@colby.edu>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 20:46:05 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: "Thomas J. Morrione" <tjmorrio@colby.edu>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I can't resist: now the top topics are:
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You forgot:

'Should I fit a Texas Cooler'

Derek


On Sat, Jun 15, 2013 at 6:24 PM, Thomas J. Morrione <tjmorrio@colby.edu>wrote:

> I've added the "Is it coolant or is it not coolant" discussion to: 1. "What
> IS the real Healey Blue color?" 2. "What is the best engine oil and
> weight?"3. "Which side is the LEFT side of the car?"  FWIW, I actually do
> enjoy these discussions. Undoubtedly I've left out out other "classic"
> topics?
>
> Seriously, I've learned a great deal from each of the exchanges. All I
> really knew about coolants other than water is that they should be disposed
> of "properly." And, we all know what that means . . .
> Tom
> '65 BJ8
> '67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 14:26:38 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 21:23:50 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey for sale - misleading ad
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Read this ad

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C397007

Very annoying. So misleading and just plain wrong. I have had several
conversations with the owner over the last 2 years and I've told him that
what he is claiming isn't correct.

Derek
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 17:17:09 2013
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References: <1371181449.85124.YahooMailNeo@web124505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<001901ce68ce$cbd7eb00$6387c100$@tpg.com.au>
	<CACPMnYqAh1pKWT8Q9ZLxF6h76ZEM8N6DL3PT8opUPf9Fz_Nuaw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 16:05:19 -0700
From: "m.fawcett" <m.fawcett@verizon.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey for sale?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the grill surround is from a BJ8. Maybe it's just I eyes.

Mark Fawcett


On Sat, Jun 15, 2013 at 9:14 AM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:

> Could be me, but it looks like hd8 carbs and choke set up...
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
> On Jun 14, 2013 12:14 AM, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
> wrote:
>
> > G'day Ray
> >
> > Looks good for the $$$ being asked.
> >
> > Just a couple of things drastically wrong - no front flashes and the
> > steering wheel is on the wrong side.
> >
> > To be safe make sure you check whether it has coolant or anti-freeze in
> the
> > radiator.
> >
> > Hoo Roo
> >
> > Patrick Quinn
> > Blue Mountains, Australia
> >
> > Ps. Did you receive the Donington Riley pics I sent you?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> > healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Ray Juncal
> > Sent: Friday, 14 June 2013 1:44 PM
> > To: List Healey
> > Subject: [Healeys] Healey for sale?
> >
> > List
> >     There is a car for sale at "the Beverly Hills Car Club" site.  They
> say
> > it is a West coast car, red 100-6.  Anyone know history on this?  I have
> > been asked to look at it for a potential buyer.  Have a look.
> > Thanks
> > Ray
> > Juncal
> > http://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1958-austin-healey-bn4--c-1876.htm
> > $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 17:37:19 2013
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	<healeys@autox.team.net>; Sun, 16 Jun 2013 09:24:04 +1000
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 09:24:02 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac5qHnkDcyB56/j5SVajoMSuuLvKyg==
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] Two-inch Blocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

No doubt we all know about the 2in blocks that should be placed under the
front shock absorbers arms when an Austin-Healey is off the ground.

 

Well yesterday I refitted the front springs to the BN3. Apart from having
lots of fun lining up the holes for the bottom spring plates and the
wishbone arms, it all went well.

 

However it was when I was half way through when I remembered about the 2in
blocks. So one side has the block and on the other the shock arm is pressing
down hard on the new rebound rubber.

 

Normally it would be a simple matter of just placing the trolley jack under
the spring plate and lifting it up, but there is no engine in the car and
all that happens is that the whole front of the car just lifts.

 

Any suggestions? Apart from getting a couple of burly blokes to stand on the
chassis rail I can't think of what to do. No I do know want to take the
spring out and start again.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 18:05:18 2013
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References: <003501ce6a1f$6d2d9f80$4788de80$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:57:04 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Two-inch Blocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Run a couple of very long bolts on the A-Arm plate (in opposing corners)
and de stress the spring by letting it down a bit, then try again, that
should work.


On Sun, Jun 16, 2013 at 7:24 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> No doubt we all know about the 2in blocks that should be placed under the
> front shock absorbers arms when an Austin-Healey is off the ground.
>
>
>
> Well yesterday I refitted the front springs to the BN3. Apart from having
> lots of fun lining up the holes for the bottom spring plates and the
> wishbone arms, it all went well.
>
>
>
> However it was when I was half way through when I remembered about the 2in
> blocks. So one side has the block and on the other the shock arm is
> pressing
> down hard on the new rebound rubber.
>
>
>
> Normally it would be a simple matter of just placing the trolley jack under
> the spring plate and lifting it up, but there is no engine in the car and
> all that happens is that the whole front of the car just lifts.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions? Apart from getting a couple of burly blokes to stand on
> the
> chassis rail I can't think of what to do. No I do know want to take the
> spring out and start again.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 19:21:50 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Derek Job'" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAAh8etn6QDb537zezaRySnRKO2r0MetDSmkEewBUTQNgfB=5oQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 11:13:20 +1000
Thread-Index: AQGK/TazjUY+PrdUm8MFvCpCHIXIH5m+XqZA
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey for sale - misleading ad
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Derek

This gets filed away in the 'Oh Dear!' department.

Is it the rarest of all Austin-Healey? No, of course not. If you look at the
production Austin-Healeys that prize goes to the 3000 BN7 Mk2 in RHD with a
centre shift box. Just 12 were made and 6 of these went to the BMC
Competitions Department. I'm not going to make mention of the non-production
Austin-Healeys.

Only 130 RHD BN6s produced!!!!! Well according to Clausager there were 133
built for the home market (UK) and 130 for export including 85 in CKD.

Were there 50 BN6s fitted with disc brakes in 1958? I doubt it!

There was a four wheel disc brake option available from the Donald Healey
Motor Company on both the BN4 and BN6 that was available almost throughout
the whole range of both Longbridge and Abingdon produced cars. It cost 85
Pounds or US$245 in $$$ of the day. The brakes were made by Dunlop, but not
quite the same as fitted to the 100S. They were more akin to that available
as an option for the Jaguar Mk1 and fitted as standard to the Mk2.

100/6 S? Is there such an animal, let alone 50 of them? Can't find any
reference to any, besides the Mille Miglia (MM) conversion available direct
from the DHMC. 

Interesting bits of Healey History arise all the time. What I do know that
if you had enough $$$ the DHMC was more than happy to oblige your wishes.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Derek Job
Sent: Sunday, 16 June 2013 6:24 AM
To: Forum
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey for sale - misleading ad

Read this ad

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C397007

Very annoying. So misleading and just plain wrong. I have had several
conversations with the owner over the last 2 years and I've told him that
what he is claiming isn't correct.

Derek
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 19:23:27 2013
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <003501ce6a1f$6d2d9f80$4788de80$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 11:18:32 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac5qHnkDcyB56/j5SVajoMSuuLvKygAEJTHA
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Two-inch Blocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Patrick
I used a length of 4x2 pine which I stood vertically between the chassis
rail and the rafters of the shed (cut to length of course).This held the
chassis down while I jacked up the wishbones. Quick and effective
Cheers
John

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Sunday, 16 June 2013 9:24 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Two-inch Blocks

G'day

 

No doubt we all know about the 2in blocks that should be placed under the
front shock absorbers arms when an Austin-Healey is off the ground.

 

Well yesterday I refitted the front springs to the BN3. Apart from having
lots of fun lining up the holes for the bottom spring plates and the
wishbone arms, it all went well.

 

However it was when I was half way through when I remembered about the 2in
blocks. So one side has the block and on the other the shock arm is pressing
down hard on the new rebound rubber.

 

Normally it would be a simple matter of just placing the trolley jack under
the spring plate and lifting it up, but there is no engine in the car and
all that happens is that the whole front of the car just lifts.

 

Any suggestions? Apart from getting a couple of burly blokes to stand on the
chassis rail I can't think of what to do. No I do know want to take the
spring out and start again.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 22:43:52 2013
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 04:40:58 +0000
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

when i was stationed in germany in the mid 80s a bunch of wine bottlers in bingen am rhine got a few years in the slammer when they put antifreeze in the wine to sweeten it up.  used a little too much and some people got sick.  apparently they bought the wine from the austrians, but that was no defense.  the standard joke at service stations in the area was "we have no wine in our antifreeze".
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 23:08:54 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 21:57:09 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] antifreeze/coolant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The Spanish dud the same thing...

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Jun 15, 2013 9:40 PM, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:

> when i was stationed in germany in the mid 80s a bunch of wine bottlers in
> bingen am rhine got a few years in the slammer when they put antifreeze in
> the wine to sweeten it up.  used a little too much and some people got
> sick.  apparently they bought the wine from the austrians, but that was no
> defense.  the standard joke at service stations in the area was "we have no
> wine in our antifreeze".
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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	(jmsdarch@69.106.234.181 with login) by smtp110.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
	with SMTP; 15 Jun 2013 22:18:58 -0700 PDT
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 22:18:50 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
	mail.com>
References: <003501ce6a1f$6d2d9f80$4788de80$@tpg.com.au>
	<CAFBXTkJ9FtHKkKLrvNyMH1Jbp9bsY-pZjfWC-urDWb78bmXFsA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Two-inch Blocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Make sure to use bolts that are same diameter as the plate bolts. 
That will help align all four spring plate base holes and make the job easier.

John Spaur

At 07:57 AM 6/16/2013 +0800, you wrote:
>Run a couple of very long bolts on the A-Arm plate (in opposing corners)....
>
>On Sun, Jun 16, 2013 at 7:24 AM
>Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> > .... Apart from having lots of fun lining up the holes for the 
> bottom spring plates....
> >
> > Patrick Quinn
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 05:32:23 2013
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	<000901ce6a2f$6b347450$419d5cf0$@com.au>
From: Greg <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:29:31 -0400
To: John Rowe <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Two-inch Blocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does someone have a picture or two of the 2" blocks in place you could send
me?

And what's the purpose?

I have doubts.

Thanks

Greg

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 15, 2013, at 9:18 PM, "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au> wrote:

> Hi Patrick
> I used a length of 4x2 pine which I stood vertically between the chassis
> rail and the rafters of the shed (cut to length of course).This held the
> chassis down while I jacked up the wishbones. Quick and effective
> Cheers
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn
> Sent: Sunday, 16 June 2013 9:24 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Two-inch Blocks
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> No doubt we all know about the 2in blocks that should be placed under the
> front shock absorbers arms when an Austin-Healey is off the ground.
>
>
>
> Well yesterday I refitted the front springs to the BN3. Apart from having
> lots of fun lining up the holes for the bottom spring plates and the
> wishbone arms, it all went well.
>
>
>
> However it was when I was half way through when I remembered about the 2in
> blocks. So one side has the block and on the other the shock arm is
pressing
> down hard on the new rebound rubber.
>
>
>
> Normally it would be a simple matter of just placing the trolley jack under
> the spring plate and lifting it up, but there is no engine in the car and
> all that happens is that the whole front of the car just lifts.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions? Apart from getting a couple of burly blokes to stand on
the
> chassis rail I can't think of what to do. No I do know want to take the
> spring out and start again.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 06:22:11 2013
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	Sun, 16 Jun 2013 22:20:24 +1000
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Greg'" <gmandas@yahoo.com>, "'John Rowe'" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
References: <003501ce6a1f$6d2d9f80$4788de80$@tpg.com.au>
	<000901ce6a2f$6b347450$419d5cf0$@com.au>
	<62529C92-A56C-4FB3-9BDA-B71BAE9870F7@yahoo.com>
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Content-Language: en-au
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Two-inch Blocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Greg

O ye of little faith!

In 41 years of Austin-Healey ownership I have learnt that Workshop Manuals
were not written and printed just to use up excess ink and paper.

BMC Part No. AKD 1179H at Section L.5 (3) states:

"The assembly must next be set in the normal loaded position. This can be
accomplished by placing a distance piece between the shock absorber arm and
the upper spring plate at a point opposite the rubber buffer. The length of
the distance piece must be 2 in."

There is even a photo (Fig. L.7.) for those who don't believe what they
read.

Now that's for the 6 cylinder cars.

In publication AKD4851 for 4-cylinder cars the same information (and photo)
is contained on P J/7.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg [mailto:gmandas@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Sunday, 16 June 2013 9:30 PM
To: John Rowe
Cc: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Two-inch Blocks

Does someone have a picture or two of the 2" blocks in place you could send
me?

And what's the purpose?

I have doubts.

Thanks

Greg

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 15, 2013, at 9:18 PM, "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au> wrote:

> Hi Patrick
> I used a length of 4x2 pine which I stood vertically between the 
> chassis rail and the rafters of the shed (cut to length of 
> course).This held the chassis down while I jacked up the wishbones. 
> Quick and effective Cheers John
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn
> Sent: Sunday, 16 June 2013 9:24 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Two-inch Blocks
> 
> G'day
> 
> 
> 
> No doubt we all know about the 2in blocks that should be placed under 
> the front shock absorbers arms when an Austin-Healey is off the ground.
> 
> 
> 
> Well yesterday I refitted the front springs to the BN3. Apart from 
> having lots of fun lining up the holes for the bottom spring plates 
> and the wishbone arms, it all went well.
> 
> 
> 
> However it was when I was half way through when I remembered about the 
> 2in blocks. So one side has the block and on the other the shock arm 
> is pressing down hard on the new rebound rubber.
> 
> 
> 
> Normally it would be a simple matter of just placing the trolley jack 
> under the spring plate and lifting it up, but there is no engine in 
> the car and all that happens is that the whole front of the car just
lifts.
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions? Apart from getting a couple of burly blokes to stand 
> on the chassis rail I can't think of what to do. No I do know want to 
> take the spring out and start again.
> 
> 
> 
> Hoo Roo
> 
> 
> 
> Patrick Quinn
> 
> Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 11:37:01 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 13:33:30 -0400
	FILETIME=[9E5EB790:01CE6AB7]
Subject: [Healeys] Installation of Moss Luggage Rack on BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My Moss 644-730 luggage rack arrived yesterday without any photos or
instruction.  The low resolution photo in the cataloge offers no good view of
what thew rubber capped feet sit on and no indication of what holds the front
of the rack to the car, or the back of the rack to the trunk lid. They sent
me:

1 trunk rack,

2 rubber capped legs about 15" long,

2 acorn nuts (which I think I see in the cataloge photo) threaded on to what
amounts to be around 1/4" bolt about 1/2 " long with a smooth 1.5" long 1/8"
diameter shaft coming out of the bolt head,

1 strip of rubber about 5" x 1-3/4",

2  hex  3/8" or 5/16" bolts about 3/4" long with hex nuts and

2 partially threaded studs, each with a 2 holed paddle welded to one end, a
tube clamp in the middle between a standard hex nut and a special 3/4" long
hex nut.



I assume the front of the rack either mounts to the trunk hinge (but I don't
know how as my hinge uses what looks like a rivet) or to the paddle ended
studs.



I assume the back of the rack either just sits on the the bumper frame
brackets (which would make it scrach the paint when the lid is raised) or uses
the paddle studs (which then forces the front of the rack to somehow mount to
the trunk hinge). I have no guesses as to what the protruding little smooth
shafts of the acorn nut assembly are for or where to put the 5" long strip of
1-1/2" rubber.

Maybe I'm missing some parts?



I was planning to install the rack today. If anyone has instructions or photos
available, would they please e-mail them to me?

Thanks!

-Dave Murphy,

Dearborn MI , SEMAHC

'66 BJ8
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	with SMTP; 16 Jun 2013 18:13:19 +0000 UTC
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 11:13:15 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet heat barrier
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have some silicone gloves that are resistant to heat up to 500 
degrees F. Has anyone found or do you know of any silicone based heat 
barriers that would be suitable to place under the carpet; perhaps in 
lieu of the padding?

John Spaur
San Jose
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 12:43:14 2013
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 11:41:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
	TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
	tests=NO_REAL_NAME
	Rule breakdown below pts rule name              description ----
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	From: does not include a real name
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet heat barrier
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Kool-Mat is a silicone layer plus other stuff and is sort of thin. There is also a pre-cut kit for Healey's out there.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 11:13:15 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet heat barrier

I have some silicone gloves that are resistant to heat up to 500 
degrees F. Has anyone found or do you know of any silicone based heat 
barriers that would be suitable to place under the carpet; perhaps in 
lieu of the padding?

John Spaur
San Jose
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 12:47:42 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>, "healeys @autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 14:46:11 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Installation of Moss Luggage Rack on BJ8
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Rick,

Thanks for the higher resolution photo. It looks like the little acorn nut
assemblies with the smooth shafts mount at the front and the smooth shafts
replace the hinge pivot. I wonder how to get the old pivot out of the hinge
and these smooth pivots installed in their place.



I see what looks like the special 3/4 long hex nut securing the tube clamp to
the legs, but I don't see the longish stud with the paddle.

-Dave








Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 10:57:38 -0700
From: healeyrick@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Installation of Moss Luggage Rack on BJ8
To: roadwarriordave@hotmail.com


Here's a link to a photo:
http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/Products/Google_PLA_Images/644-730_1.jpg


Hope it's of some help


Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo





From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 1:33 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Installation of Moss Luggage Rack on BJ8


My Moss 644-730 luggage rack arrived yesterday without any photos or
instruction.  The low resolution photo in the cataloge offers no good view of
what thew rubber capped feet sit on and no indication of what holds the front
of the rack to the car, or the back of the rack to the trunk lid. They sent
me:

1 trunk rack,

2 rubber capped legs about 15" long,

2 acorn nuts (which I think I see in the cataloge photo) threaded on to what
amounts to be around 1/4" bolt about 1/2 " long with a smooth 1.5" long 1/8"
diameter shaft coming out of the bolt head,

1 strip of rubber about 5" x 1-3/4",

2  hex  3/8" or 5/16" bolts about 3/4" long with hex nuts and

2 partially threaded studs, each with a 2 holed paddle welded to one end, a
tube clamp in the middle between a standard hex nut and a special 3/4" long
hex nut.



I assume the front of the rack either mounts to the trunk hinge (but I don't
know how as my hinge uses what looks like a rivet) or to the paddle ended
studs.



I assume the back of the rack either just sits on the the bumper frame
brackets (which would make it scrach the paint when the lid is raised) or
uses
the paddle studs (which then forces the front of the rack to somehow mount to
the trunk hinge). I have no guesses as to what the protruding little smooth
shafts of the acorn nut assembly are for or where to put the 5" long strip of
1-1/2" rubber.

Maybe I'm missing some parts?



I was planning to install the rack today. If anyone has instructions or
photos
available, would they please e-mail them to me?

Thanks!

-Dave Murphy,

Dearborn MI , SEMAHC

'66 BJ8
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Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Luggage Rack
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-----Original Message-----
From: editorgary <editorgary@aol.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jun 16, 2013 12:40 pm
Subject: Luggage Rack


 Your biggest potential problem will be the hinges. If they are the stock
originals, they rotate on a serrated press-fit pin that can be pushed out from
the smaller diameter end, and then the large bolt is inserted in place,
fastening the luggage rack so it lifts with the boot lid. (And be sure that
you don't lose those little pins, so figure out where you'll put them for when
you want to remove the rack.)

If your hinges are, in fact, fitted with rivets, then they're the cheap
aftermarket replacements sold from some third-rate suppliers, and you will not
be able to mount the luggage rack until you buy new original-spec hinges.

As originally intended, the legs are fastened with the chrome brackets to the
bottom lip of the boot lid in such a way that the rubber legs rest on the
bumper brackets. It's a bit complicated, but does work and positions the
luggage rack parallel with the ground. However, on the roadsters, that means
you can't see over anything fastened to the rack -- but then, with the
convertible you already have that problem whenever the top is put down.

Instead of fitting as original, some of us simply have rotated the rear legs
180 degrees so that instead of going out and down, they go down then out, and
can be rested into the bumper guards, with the rack at an angle parallel to
the boot lid. The only thing you have to do then is bungee the rack to the
bumper once the luggage is put on it, so it stays stuck down into the bumper
guards.

Good luck with the hinges.

G.



Gary Anderson
Editor-at-Large
Austin-Healey Magaziner





the rack to the trunk lid. They sentme:1 trunk rack,2 rubber capped legs about
15" long,2 acorn nuts (which I think I see in the cataloge photo) threaded on
to whatamounts to be around 1/4" bolt about 1/2 " long with a smooth 1.5" long
1/8"diameter shaft coming out of the bolt head,1 strip of rubber about 5" x
1-3/4",2  hex  3/8" or 5/16" bolts about 3/4" long with hex nuts and2
partially threaded studs, each with a 2 holed paddle welded to one end, atube
clamp in the middle between a standard hex nut and a special 3/4" longhex
nut.I assume the front of the rack either mounts to the trunk hinge (but I
don'tknow how as my hinge uses what looks like a rivet) or to the paddle
endedstuds.I assume the back of the rack either just sits on the the bumper
framebrackets (which would make it scrach the paint when the lid is raised) or
usesthe paddle studs (which then forces the front of the rack to somehow mount
tothe trunk hinge). I have no guesses as to what the protruding little
smoothshafts of the acorn nut assembly are for or where to put the 5" long
strip of1-1/2" rubber.Maybe I'm missing some parts?I was planning to install
the rack today. If anyone has instructions or photosavailable, would they
please e-mail them to me?Thanks!-Dave Murphy,Dearborn MI , SEMAHC'66
BJ8------------------------------____________________________________________
___Healeys mailing
listHealeys@autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysEnd of
Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 309***************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 14:51:13 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "editorgary@aol.com" <editorgary@aol.com>, "healeys @autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 16:49:12 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Luggage Rack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Gary.

I think my hinges probably have headless tapered pins rather than rivets, but
finding a way to press those pins out without maring the chrome is goint be
fun.

But at the bottom edge there is too little gap for those paddle ends to fit
without at least snagging the paint on the shroud everytime I shut the lid. An
the bumper looks to be right behind the gap so that the studs on the end of
the paddles looks like it will catch the bumper.

I'm interested in reversing the legs and angling them into the overriders.
Does that obviate the need for attaching the spades to the lower lip?

-Dave




> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> From: editorgary@aol.com
> Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 15:43:26 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Luggage Rack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: editorgary <editorgary@aol.com>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Jun 16, 2013 12:40 pm
> Subject: Luggage Rack
>
>
> Your biggest potential problem will be the hinges. If they are the stock
> originals, they rotate on a serrated press-fit pin that can be pushed out
from
> the smaller diameter end, and then the large bolt is inserted in place,
> fastening the luggage rack so it lifts with the boot lid. (And be sure that
> you don't lose those little pins, so figure out where you'll put them for
when
> you want to remove the rack.)
>
> If your hinges are, in fact, fitted with rivets, then they're the cheap
> aftermarket replacements sold from some third-rate suppliers, and you will
not
> be able to mount the luggage rack until you buy new original-spec hinges.
>
> As originally intended, the legs are fastened with the chrome brackets to
the
> bottom lip of the boot lid in such a way that the rubber legs rest on the
> bumper brackets. It's a bit complicated, but does work and positions the
> luggage rack parallel with the ground. However, on the roadsters, that
means
> you can't see over anything fastened to the rack -- but then, with the
> convertible you already have that problem whenever the top is put down.
>
> Instead of fitting as original, some of us simply have rotated the rear
legs
> 180 degrees so that instead of going out and down, they go down then out,
and
> can be rested into the bumper guards, with the rack at an angle parallel to
> the boot lid. The only thing you have to do then is bungee the rack to the
> bumper once the luggage is put on it, so it stays stuck down into the
bumper
> guards.
>
> Good luck with the hinges.
>
> G.
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor-at-Large
> Austin-Healey Magaziner
>
>
>
>
>
> the rack to the trunk lid. They sentme:1 trunk rack,2 rubber capped legs
about
> 15" long,2 acorn nuts (which I think I see in the cataloge photo) threaded
on
> to whatamounts to be around 1/4" bolt about 1/2 " long with a smooth 1.5"
long
> 1/8"diameter shaft coming out of the bolt head,1 strip of rubber about 5" x
> 1-3/4",2 hex 3/8" or 5/16" bolts about 3/4" long with hex nuts and2
> partially threaded studs, each with a 2 holed paddle welded to one end,
atube
> clamp in the middle between a standard hex nut and a special 3/4" longhex
> nut.I assume the front of the rack either mounts to the trunk hinge (but I
> don'tknow how as my hinge uses what looks like a rivet) or to the paddle
> endedstuds.I assume the back of the rack either just sits on the the bumper
> framebrackets (which would make it scrach the paint when the lid is raised)
or
> usesthe paddle studs (which then forces the front of the rack to somehow
mount
> tothe trunk hinge). I have no guesses as to what the protruding little
> smoothshafts of the acorn nut assembly are for or where to put the 5" long
> strip of1-1/2" rubber.Maybe I'm missing some parts?I was planning to
install
> the rack today. If anyone has instructions or photosavailable, would they
> please e-mail them to me?Thanks!-Dave Murphy,Dearborn MI , SEMAHC'66
>
BJ8------------------------------____________________________________________
> ___Healeys mailing
> listHealeys@autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysEnd
of
> Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 309***************************************
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 16:26:38 2013
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 22:24:42 +0000
References: <003501ce6a1f$6d2d9f80$4788de80$@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Two-inch Blocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The purpose of installing the two inch block on assembly is so that the rubber
bushings in the suspension will be set in a neutral position when you tighten
the set pins. Without them the bushings will be set at the lowest limit of
suspension travel and when the car is assembled and sitting on the ground the
bushings will be stressed beyond their limits and destroyed. This may not
apply to nylon or hard plastic bushings which are free to turn in their
seats.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

> From: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 09:24:02 +1000
> Subject: [Healeys] Two-inch Blocks
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> No doubt we all know about the 2in blocks that should be placed under the
> front shock absorbers arms when an Austin-Healey is off the ground.
>
>
>
> Well yesterday I refitted the front springs to the BN3. Apart from having
> lots of fun lining up the holes for the bottom spring plates and the
> wishbone arms, it all went well.
>
>
>
> However it was when I was half way through when I remembered about the 2in
> blocks. So one side has the block and on the other the shock arm is
pressing
> down hard on the new rebound rubber.
>
>
>
> Normally it would be a simple matter of just placing the trolley jack under
> the spring plate and lifting it up, but there is no engine in the car and
> all that happens is that the whole front of the car just lifts.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions? Apart from getting a couple of burly blokes to stand on
the
> chassis rail I can't think of what to do. No I do know want to take the
> spring out and start again.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 16:39:23 2013
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 15:36:32 -0700
From: Michael Hartfield <hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
To: <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Installation of Moss Luggage Rack on BJ8
Subject: [Healeys] Installation of Moss Luggage Rack on BJ8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

> The rack mounts to the hinges of the trunk lid.  The legs fall in the junction
> of the bumper guard and the bumper.
> On my rack, I found translucent hose and fitted the first 10" of the legs into
> the hose to protect the paint.
> 
> Good luck in the installation.
> 
> Michael
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 21:22:25 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?diode?=
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

where can i get a diode that goes in the fuel pump? radio shack no go.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 22:50:13 2013
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 21:47:20 -0700
To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20130617032015.6089.qmail@server278.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] diode
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Contact John James and order a "Transil". The link will take you to 
an article about them.

>From: "John James" <jj@octagon.fsbusiness.co.uk>
>
>http://ttypes.org/ttt2/extend-the-life-of-your-su-fuel-pump-fit-a-transil

At 03:20 AM 6/17/2013 +0000, healeymanjim@hansencc.net wrote:
>where can i get a diode that goes in the fuel pump? radio shack no go.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 04:07:50 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 10:05:46 +0000 (UTC)
From: caddi5@comcast.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Healeys] 2" distance block
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am currently beginning work on the front suspension 1966 BJ8 .............What is the actual measurement of this wood block (spacer)	 is it 2" tall ??

Thanks
Mitch
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 04:38:40 2013
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	Mon, 17 Jun 2013 20:36:18 +1000
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <caddi5@comcast.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1173083374.359979.1371463546562.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 20:36:14 +1000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Mitch

Speaking from very recent experience I can tell you that it's 2in from the
horizontal suspension post (where the shock is bolted) and the flat pad of
the shock absorber arm.

All I did was to cut a small piece of wood to size.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of caddi5@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, 17 June 2013 8:06 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 2" distance block

I am currently beginning work on the front suspension 1966 BJ8
.............What is the actual measurement of this wood block (spacer)	 is
it 2" tall ??

Thanks
Mitch
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 05:03:51 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <caddi5@comcast.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1173083374.359979.1371463546562.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:59:45 +0100
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Content-Language: en-gb
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I made mine 2" by 2".
Worth drilling a hole through them* and attaching lengths of cord. Thus,
when you jack it up to finish the job, you just pull them out without having
to grovel in the brake fluid again.
*Might as well make two while you're at it.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of caddi5@comcast.net
Sent: 17 June 2013 11:06
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 2" distance block

I am currently beginning work on the front suspension 1966 BJ8
.............What is the actual measurement of this wood block (spacer)	 is
it 2" tall ??

Thanks
Mitch
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 05:26:26 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 04:23:46 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

In the spirit of over-engineering, I bought a 2" bolt (think it's 5/8" dia. thread).

Bob



On 6/17/2013 3:05 AM, caddi5@comcast.net wrote:
> I am currently beginning work on the front suspension 1966 BJ8 .............What is the actual measurement of this wood block (spacer)	 is it 2" tall ??
>
> Thanks
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 05:36:02 2013
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From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>, <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 13:34:05 +0200
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet heat barrier
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If I was doing my Healey now, I would go for Pyrogel XT.

Back when I did it, I went for Kool Mat...

Careful though, Pyrogel is expensive..

Tadek
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From: "Dallas Congleton" <dcongleton@embarqmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1173083374.359979.1371463546562.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<51BEF1C2.7030100@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 07:37:13 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think here should be a week long discussion whether the correct term is 2 
inch "block" or 2 inch "spacer", or whether a block is really a spacer, or 
if ......  :^)

Dallas




On 6/17/2013 3:05 AM, caddi5@comcast.net wrote:
> I am currently beginning work on the front suspension 1966 BJ8 
> .............What is the actual measurement of this wood block (spacer) is 
> it 2" tall ??
>
> Thanks
> Mitch 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 06:05:40 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 7:59:59 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, caddi5@comcast.net, 
	healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm coming in late to this discussion.  I don't have a clue what you are talking about re this 2" block of wood and what it prevents.  I have never used one and I've jacked my BJ8 up MANY times in the last 33 years.

I know Ed---VVVBG----yes, I can go back and read ALL the posts, but risking risking your wrath, I hope someone will jot down a simple explanation for me.

Thanks
tom




---- Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote: 

=============
G'day Mitch

Speaking from very recent experience I can tell you that it's 2in from the
horizontal suspension post (where the shock is bolted) and the flat pad of
the shock absorber arm.

All I did was to cut a small piece of wood to size.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of caddi5@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, 17 June 2013 8:06 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 2" distance block

I am currently beginning work on the front suspension 1966 BJ8
.............What is the actual measurement of this wood block (spacer)	 is
it 2" tall ??

Thanks
Mitch
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 06:23:17 2013
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <dcongleton@embarqmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:21:35 +0000
References: <1173083374.359979.1371463546562.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<51BEF1C2.7030100@comcast.net>,
	<4AE83C41B4E4459FB45741F67A8823B7@DallasPC>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Dallas,

It's a "distance piece" please use the correct terminology. /s

Bill Lawrence

> From: dcongleton@embarqmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 07:37:13 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
>
> I think here should be a week long discussion whether the correct term is 2
> inch "block" or 2 inch "spacer", or whether a block is really a spacer, or
> if ......  :^)
>
> Dallas
>
>
>
>
> On 6/17/2013 3:05 AM, caddi5@comcast.net wrote:
> > I am currently beginning work on the front suspension 1966 BJ8
> > .............What is the actual measurement of this wood block (spacer) is
> > it 2" tall ??
> >
> > Thanks
> > Mitch
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 06:27:48 2013
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 22:25:44 +1000
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom,
When you replace your front suspension bushes, with original metalistic
bushes, in order to not destroy them before your tyre hits the ground, you set
a standard suspension height.
While your car is in the air...
By putting in a 2 inch block, to hold your shock arm at a standard height. For
a standard Healey. To simulate the height of the shock arm, at at standard
ride height, as defined in 1960 something.
Otherwise, you rip the rubber metalistic bush apart. Because it can't move
that far.
Of course, you have just explained your shock bushings are stuffed and broken.
Because they are 33 years old!!
;-)
And, in the Spirit of imperial measurement, NO ONE will entertain a metric
conversion of a historical imperial measurement, except that 50.8 mm sounds
like a made up measurement.
Ok?
;-)
Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com


Sent from my iPhone

On 17/06/2013, at 9:59 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> I'm coming in late to this discussion.  I don't have a clue what you are
talking about re this 2" block of wood and what it prevents.  I have never
used one and I've jacked my BJ8 up MANY times in the last 33 years
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 06:55:27 2013
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From: Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:52:56 +0000
	FILETIME=[966313E0:01CE6B59]
Subject: [Healeys] Race Series Question
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Can someone tell me the official name of the 1990 Austin-Healey races held in
the US featuring British and American Healeys. I seen it referred to as the
Healey Challenge and the Conclave Challenge. What was it "officially" called.
Thanks
Rick Swain'59 BN4
ps Is everybody ready for Conclave Charlevoix?
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 07:15:45 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 09:14:02 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Race Series Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Rick,
I believe it was called *The North American Austin Healey Challenge.
*
I understand that some idiot actually raced a genuine 100S in some of the
races!!!*

*
*Michael S
*


On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 8:52 AM, Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Can someone tell me the official name of the 1990 Austin-Healey races held
> in
> the US featuring British and American Healeys. I seen it referred to as the
> Healey Challenge and the Conclave Challenge. What was it "officially"
> called.
> Thanks
> Rick Swain'59 BN4
> ps Is everybody ready for Conclave Charlevoix?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 07:22:02 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:18:08 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Race Series Question
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Op 17-6-2013 15:14, Michael Salter schreef:
> I understand that some idiot actually raced a genuine 100S in some of the
> races!!!*
That is what they were made for!!
Kees Oudesluijs
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 08:30:10 2013
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	<51BF0C90.70103@chello.nl>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:28:05 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Race Series Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike

There are several 100Ss that race regularly here in the UK. Bruce and Ian
Montgomery own one of them, which a couple of weeks ago at Donington,  had
a coming together with a 100M that is raced by some guys who have a
'stable' of race Healeys close to where I live. The ex Mille Miglia car OON
440, even more valuable, also races from time to time.

Derek


On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 2:18 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Op 17-6-2013 15:14, Michael Salter schreef:
>
>  I understand that some idiot actually raced a genuine 100S in some of the
>> races!!!*
>>
> That is what they were made for!!
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com>
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 01:24:10 +1000
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Race Series Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

"Woooosh......"

Sent from my iPhone

On 17/06/2013, at 11:14 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Rick,
> I believe it was called *The North American Austin Healey Challenge.
> *
> I understand that some idiot actually raced a genuine 100S in some of the
> races!!!*
>
> *
> *Michael S
> *
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 8:52 AM, Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Can someone tell me the official name of the 1990 Austin-Healey races held
>> in
>> the US featuring British and American Healeys. I seen it referred to as
the
>> Healey Challenge and the Conclave Challenge. What was it "officially"
>> called.
>> Thanks
>> Rick Swain'59 BN4
>> ps Is everybody ready for Conclave Charlevoix?
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>
> --
> Michael Salter
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 10:10:29 2013
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	5D/54-06197-2743FB15; Mon, 17 Jun 2013 16:08:19 +0000
From: "Alex" <alexmm@roadrunner.com>
To: <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20130617032015.6089.qmail@server278.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:08:18 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] diode
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim, what diode number are you looking for? I have many here and can send 
you one. For example, a 1N4007 is a 2.5A 1000-volt silicon diode. That 
should be more than adequate.

Electronics distributors stock them, but distys are few and far between 
these days. Mail order from Jameco or Digikey is another route to go.

== Alex in Maine

     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 11:20 PM
Subject: [Healeys] diode


> where can i get a diode that goes in the fuel pump? radio shack no go.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 10:32:16 2013
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	<CAB3i7LJvGHmDnN80=ghTJCseJS+rmewrNXOnSWQrPLTGudcM2w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:30:34 -0400
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Race Series Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I try not to differ with Michael Salter but--assuming you are talking about
the event that took place in 2005--in this case I must.  The Official Name
was the Australian-United States Healey Challenge (AUHC).

I had the pleasure of hosting a bunch of the Aussies at my place between
the Summit Point and VIR events.  We did a tour of DC which culminated at a
party at the Australian embassy.  What a fine bunch of people and great
racers.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 9:14 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> Hi Rick,
> I believe it was called *The North American Austin Healey Challenge.
> *
> I understand that some idiot actually raced a genuine 100S in some of the
> races!!!*
>
> *
> *Michael S
> *
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 8:52 AM, Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Can someone tell me the official name of the 1990 Austin-Healey races
> held
> > in
> > the US featuring British and American Healeys. I seen it referred to as
> the
> > Healey Challenge and the Conclave Challenge. What was it "officially"
> > called.
> > Thanks
> > Rick Swain'59 BN4
> > ps Is everybody ready for Conclave Charlevoix?
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Michael Salter
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 10:57:22 2013
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	<CAB3i7LJvGHmDnN80=ghTJCseJS+rmewrNXOnSWQrPLTGudcM2w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAPTa0B7-DJ-vc8k7jv5A5EntUf1t6pJH=pt-9oYSm-NDmj0wSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:55:37 -0400
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Race Series Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Had the pleasure of being at the VIR event. Had a newspaper photographer
ask where he should be to see some "action". I told him turn 3. Someone
always misses that turn, have since the day the track opened, there for
that, too. BTW, he was not disappointed.

Bob Johnson


On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 12:30 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>wrote:

> I try not to differ with Michael Salter but--assuming you are talking about
> the event that took place in 2005--in this case I must.  The Official Name
> was the Australian-United States Healey Challenge (AUHC).
>
> I had the pleasure of hosting a bunch of the Aussies at my place between
> the Summit Point and VIR events.  We did a tour of DC which culminated at a
> party at the Australian embassy.  What a fine bunch of people and great
> racers.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 9:14 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com
> >wrote:
>
> > Hi Rick,
> > I believe it was called *The North American Austin Healey Challenge.
> > *
> > I understand that some idiot actually raced a genuine 100S in some of the
> > races!!!*
> >
> > *
> > *Michael S
> > *
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 8:52 AM, Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Can someone tell me the official name of the 1990 Austin-Healey races
> > held
> > > in
> > > the US featuring British and American Healeys. I seen it referred to as
> > the
> > > Healey Challenge and the Conclave Challenge. What was it "officially"
> > > called.
> > > Thanks
> > > Rick Swain'59 BN4
> > > ps Is everybody ready for Conclave Charlevoix?
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Michael Salter
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bjsbj8@gmail.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:04:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Race Series Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Good Day Michael;
 
The original question by Rick Swain referred to the 1990 series and it was
called The North American Team Healey Challenge.  Michael Salter was right on
and he was the guy running around in the 100S.  As I recall, he did alright
for himself. 
 
I very much enjoyed attending some of those races.  Somewhere, I have all
kinds of photos of the Healey races and some of Mike in his 100S.  It was a
great series and one writeup was done by Ron Yates that appeared in the AHCUSA
'Austin Healey Magazine' December 1990.  If you are a member, I believe the
article is posted on that club's website  http://www.healey.org/  .
 
--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada   - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives

--- On Mon, 6/17/13, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote: << I try
not to differ with Michael Salter but--assuming you are talking about the
event that took place in 2005--in this case I must.  ......>>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 12:13:26 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 19:11:49 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac5rhiKMqqPLa1m1SpuwjAJ0vg7Tuw==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Coolant.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not going to tell anyone, but my big container here says "Anti-freeze
and summer coolant"! Keep it quiet; don't tell a soul.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 12:27:44 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 14:26:03 -0400
	FILETIME=[2038F110:01CE6B88]
Subject: [Healeys] Big Healey Trunk Hinge Spacing Outside to outside
 Measurement Survey Needed.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all of those who replied to my emails headed by the initial title, "[Healeys] Installation of Moss Luggage Rack on BJ8"~.
But I have a problem with the dimensions of the upper mounting tabs on the rack Moss sent me and was unable to get it to fit because the upper mounting tabs on the rack were almost 1/2" too close together for my car. 
 
The mounting tabs on the rack reasure about 26-3/4" to 26-13/32" apart (inside edge to inside edge) which is about the same as how my trunk hinges are spaced outside edge to outside edge. 
 
But bolting on the the hinge mount adapters provided with the rack requires 7/16 inch additional room be available between the two mounting tabs on the rack to allow for two hex heads that are integral with the hinge mount adapters. 
 
Thus either my trunk lid hinges need to measure about 26-5/16 inches outside to outside to use this Moss Rack, or I need a rack with the upper mounting tab weldments measuring about 27-3/16 inch to perhaps 27-5/16 inch apart. 
 
I'd like to know if my '66 BJ8 boot lid hinges are more broadly spaced than typical. 
Would some of you please measure the spacing of your boot/trunk lid hinges for me? What is the boot lid hinge spacing on your cars, from left side of left hinge to right side of right hinge?
Thanks
-Dave Murphy, Dearborn MI 		 	   		  
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 13:37:06 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 20:34:17 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Race Series Question
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Apologies to Mike!

Didn't realise that you were the crazy guy driving the 100S

Derek


On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 7:04 PM, J. Scott Morris <jstmorris@yahoo.com>wrote:

> Good Day Michael;
>
> The original question by Rick Swain referred to the 1990 series and it was
> called The North American Team Healey Challenge.  Michael Salter was right
> on
> and he was the guy running around in the 100S.  As I recall, he did alright
> for himself.
>
> I very much enjoyed attending some of those races.  Somewhere, I have all
> kinds of photos of the Healey races and some of Mike in his 100S.  It was a
> great series and one writeup was done by Ron Yates that appeared in the
> AHCUSA
> 'Austin Healey Magazine' December 1990.  If you are a member, I believe the
> article is posted on that club's website  http://www.healey.org/  .
>
> --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada   - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
>
> --- On Mon, 6/17/13, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote: << I
> try
> not to differ with Michael Salter but--assuming you are talking about the
> event that took place in 2005--in this case I must.  ......>>
> _______________________________________________
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 13:43:31 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:36:14 -0400
From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>,  "healeys
	@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Big Healey Trunk Hinge Spacing Outside to outside
 Measurement Survey Needed.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

26-9/16" outside LH hinge to outside RH hinge, measured at the hinge pins.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
---- Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com> wrote: 
> Thanks to all of those who replied to my emails headed by the initial title, "[Healeys] Installation of Moss Luggage Rack on BJ8"~.
> But I have a problem with the dimensions of the upper mounting tabs on the rack Moss sent me and was unable to get it to fit because the upper mounting tabs on the rack were almost 1/2" too close together for my car. 
>  
> The mounting tabs on the rack reasure about 26-3/4" to 26-13/32" apart (inside edge to inside edge) which is about the same as how my trunk hinges are spaced outside edge to outside edge. 
>  
> But bolting on the the hinge mount adapters provided with the rack requires 7/16 inch additional room be available between the two mounting tabs on the rack to allow for two hex heads that are integral with the hinge mount adapters. 
>  
> Thus either my trunk lid hinges need to measure about 26-5/16 inches outside to outside to use this Moss Rack, or I need a rack with the upper mounting tab weldments measuring about 27-3/16 inch to perhaps 27-5/16 inch apart. 
>  
> I'd like to know if my '66 BJ8 boot lid hinges are more broadly spaced than typical. 
> Would some of you please measure the spacing of your boot/trunk lid hinges for me? What is the boot lid hinge spacing on your cars, from left side of left hinge to right side of right hinge?
> Thanks
> -Dave Murphy, Dearborn MI 		 	   		  
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 14:13:33 2013
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From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
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References: <COL127-W365E1C68A963536BDDF310A3830@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 13:07:27 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Big Healey Trunk Hinge Spacing Outside to outside
 Measurement Survey Needed.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave:  More than you asked for:
Outside to outside:  26 3/4 inches.  Inside to inside:  24 7/8 inches.

I remove the pins with either a small drift or the pin that I use to replace 
them.  Those are Cotterless hitch pins also known as detent or ring pins, 
3/16 X 2 inches. I have modified my rack to be easily removable.  The legs 
rest on the inside of the bumper (more detail available if needed) and the 
rack is held down by a bungee cord that goes around the trunk handle.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Murphy" <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 11:26 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Big Healey Trunk Hinge Spacing Outside to outside 
Measurement Survey Needed.


> Thanks to all of those who replied to my emails headed by the initial 
> title, "[Healeys] Installation of Moss Luggage Rack on BJ8"~.
>.
>
> I'd like to know if my '66 BJ8 boot lid hinges are more broadly spaced 
> than typical.
> Would some of you please measure the spacing of your boot/trunk lid hinges 
> for me? What is the boot lid hinge spacing on your cars, from left side of 
> left hinge to right side of right hinge?
> Thanks
> -Dave Murphy, Dearborn MI
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 14:22:26 2013
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	Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:20:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Mike Garvey" <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: "'Dave Murphy'" <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>, "'healeys
	@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <COL127-W365E1C68A963536BDDF310A3830@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 16:20:39 -0400
Thread-index: Ac5riC8Vgo/JDMl2RBqIzmlABYaZVgAD7FpQ
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Big Healey Trunk Hinge Spacing Outside to outside
 Measurement Survey Needed.
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

26 3/4 inches, outside to outside, measured at the hinge pin.

Michael Garvey
1967 BJ8/38046
Swampscott, MA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Murphy
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 2:26 PM
To: healeys @autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Big Healey Trunk Hinge Spacing Outside to outside
Measurement Survey Needed.

Thanks to all of those who replied to my emails headed by the initial title,
"[Healeys] Installation of Moss Luggage Rack on BJ8"~.
But I have a problem with the dimensions of the upper mounting tabs on the
rack Moss sent me and was unable to get it to fit because the upper mounting
tabs on the rack were almost 1/2" too close together for my car. 
 
The mounting tabs on the rack reasure about 26-3/4" to 26-13/32" apart
(inside edge to inside edge) which is about the same as how my trunk hinges
are spaced outside edge to outside edge. 
 
But bolting on the the hinge mount adapters provided with the rack requires
7/16 inch additional room be available between the two mounting tabs on the
rack to allow for two hex heads that are integral with the hinge mount
adapters. 
 
Thus either my trunk lid hinges need to measure about 26-5/16 inches outside
to outside to use this Moss Rack, or I need a rack with the upper mounting
tab weldments measuring about 27-3/16 inch to perhaps 27-5/16 inch apart. 
 
I'd like to know if my '66 BJ8 boot lid hinges are more broadly spaced than
typical. 
Would some of you please measure the spacing of your boot/trunk lid hinges
for me? What is the boot lid hinge spacing on your cars, from left side of
left hinge to right side of right hinge?
Thanks
-Dave Murphy, Dearborn MI 		 	   		  
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/r3m1g4@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 17:46:58 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 19:40:59 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] bench bleed master cylinder?
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All,

I've fitted a new 5/8" brake master cylinder to the tri-carb.  The part 
number on the box is PMB120X.  I've also rebuilt the two front calipers, 
including the square/quad o-ring between the halves.  After bleeding the 
system with an eezibleed, the brake pedal still has too much travel.  It 
doesn't go all the way to the floor and the travel doesn't change after 
pumping the pedal for a bit.  Thoughts?

On the box, it states that the master cylinder must be bench bleed 
before installation.  How is this different than using the eezibleed?

The box also says that the warranty is void if silicone fluid is used - 
fwiw.  I'm using Castrol GTLMA.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 18:35:22 2013
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References: <51BF9E8B.2050609@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 17:33:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>, Forum
  <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bench bleed master cylinder?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

I had a similar problem after installing a new M/C.  Rather than
removing it again to bench bleed it, I disconnected the outlet pipe on the M/C
and replaced it with a short length of pipe without a fitting on one end.  I
put a length of plastic tubing over the pipe end and the other end of the
tubing into a can of brake fluid with about an inch of fluid in the bottom. 
You can then bleed the master using the brake pedal.  Make sure you don't let
the brake reservoir run dry when you pump the brake pedal.  Strangely enough
when I was bleeding the M/C some grease came out with the brake fluid.  After
you get all the air out of the M/C replace the original outlet pipe and finish
bleeding the calipers as before.   Good luck!


 
Rick


"Madman in a death
machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
________________________________
 From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 7:40 PM
Subject: [Healeys] bench bleed master cylinder?
 

All,

I've fitted a new
5/8" brake master cylinder to the tri-carb.  The part 
number on the box is
PMB120X.  I've also rebuilt the two front calipers, 
including the square/quad
o-ring between the halves.  After bleeding the 
system with an eezibleed, the
brake pedal still has too much travel.  It 
doesn't go all the way to the
floor and the travel doesn't change after 
pumping the pedal for a bit. 
Thoughts?

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 19:22:15 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 20:20:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
	(Win)/5.0.19_GA_3083.RHEL5_64)
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

" All I did was to cut a small piece of wood to size. "

It can't be that simple.

Tim Davis BN7

----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: caddi5@comcast.net, healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 5:36:14 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block

G'day Mitch

Speaking from very recent experience I can tell you that it's 2in from the
horizontal suspension post (where the shock is bolted) and the flat pad of
the shock absorber arm.

All I did was to cut a small piece of wood to size.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of caddi5@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, 17 June 2013 8:06 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 2" distance block

I am currently beginning work on the front suspension 1966 BJ8
.............What is the actual measurement of this wood block (spacer)	 is
it 2" tall ??

Thanks
Mitch
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 19:26:44 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 18:24:59 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <51BF9E8B.2050609@earthlink.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1371518710;
	bh=pRZ0BIReP9tyzrMs7QnC7geAXzirkreOn+9lZldiS34=;
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	h/ngJCxXq7GmQ==
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bench bleed master cylinder?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

re: "The box also says that the warranty is void if silicone fluid is used"

So did mine (before I bench bled it with DoT 5 and installed it). No problems (but I've only got about 25K miles on it).

BTW, who would honor the warranty?  Have to send it to England?

Bob


On 6/17/2013 4:40 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> All,
>
> I've fitted a new 5/8" brake master cylinder to the tri-carb.  The part number on the box is PMB120X.  I've also 
> rebuilt the two front calipers, including the square/quad o-ring between the halves.  After bleeding the system with 
> an eezibleed, the brake pedal still has too much travel.  It doesn't go all the way to the floor and the travel 
> doesn't change after pumping the pedal for a bit.  Thoughts?
>
> On the box, it states that the master cylinder must be bench bleed before installation.  How is this different than 
> using the eezibleed?
>
> The box also says that the warranty is void if silicone fluid is used - fwiw.  I'm using Castrol GTLMA.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
> _______________________________________________
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 19:28:26 2013
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	Tue, 18 Jun 2013 11:26:46 +1000
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Tim Davis BN7'" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
References: <010301ce6b46$7f3ba0a0$7db2e1e0$@tpg.com.au>
	<1081910278.4170981371518418458.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 11:26:42 +1000
Thread-index: AQHPJoblnH8sEZdz2Y0Sy6EcT/h3PJk5N+MA
Content-language: en-au
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Tim

Is it that simple. In fact all I did was use some left over offcuts from a
desk I made, cut them so that they were 2in tall and narrow enough to fit
between the horizontal suspension post and the round pad of the shock absorber
arm.

Don't let anyone try an complicate matters for you as it's dead simple.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Davis BN7 [mailto:tld6008@mchsi.com]
Sent: Tuesday, 18 June 2013 11:20 AM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Cc: caddi5@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block

" All I did was to cut a small piece of wood to size. "

It can't be that simple.

Tim Davis BN7

----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: caddi5@comcast.net, healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 5:36:14 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block

G'day Mitch

Speaking from very recent experience I can tell you that it's 2in from the
horizontal suspension post (where the shock is bolted) and the flat pad of the
shock absorber arm.

All I did was to cut a small piece of wood to size.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of caddi5@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, 17 June 2013 8:06 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 2" distance block

I am currently beginning work on the front suspension 1966 BJ8
.............What is the actual measurement of this wood block (spacer)	 is
it 2" tall ??

Thanks
Mitch
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 19:33:31 2013
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	<1081910278.4170981371518418458.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 18:31:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>, Patrick & Caroline Quinn
	<p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think we need to discuss what kind of wood would be best :)

 
Rick
"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From: Tim Davis
BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 9:20 PM
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] 2" distance block
 

" All I did was to cut a small piece of wood to
size. "

It can't be that simple.

Tim Davis BN7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 19:48:41 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

...I attached a piece of fluorescent surveyor's tape to mine which I drape 
over the wheels, after the nth time I drove off to hear them clatter round 
the wheels arches!

Cheers

Peter

-----Original Message----- 
From: HealeyRick
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2013 11:31 AM
To: Tim Davis BN7 ; Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block

I think we need to discuss what kind of wood would be best :)


Rick
"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
From: Tim Davis
BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 9:20 PM
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] 2" distance block


" All I did was to cut a small piece of wood to
size. "

It can't be that simple.

Tim Davis BN7
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn@ozemail.com.au
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 20:03:52 2013
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From: <gturl@sympatico.ca>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 02:00:48 +0000
	FILETIME=[A704D9E0:01CE6BC7]
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Lubrication question
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Its time for an oil change and I'm wondering what kind of engine oil would be
most appropriate for a big Healey. I think someone once recommended 5W50
Synthetic but I cant be sure (ie I cant find my notes!).
While I'm on the subject, what gearbox lubricant do most people use? I
understand I should avoid anything containing teflon for fear of interfering
with the synchromesh.
Thanks in advance..
Carol and Geoff
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 20:04:50 2013
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	Tue, 18 Jun 2013 12:02:12 +1000
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'HealeyRick'" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>, "'Tim Davis BN7'"
	<tld6008@mchsi.com>
References: <010301ce6b46$7f3ba0a0$7db2e1e0$@tpg.com.au>
	<1081910278.4170981371518418458.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>
	<1371519108.45126.YahooMailNeo@web124701.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 12:02:09 +1000
Thread-index: AQD7s4fEXGTm+ouNZL16+kEYwxpPIgHPJoblAs/nrQmauy/P4A==
Content-language: en-au
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

Yes we could have a debate of whether hardwood or softwood would be best.

 

I used pine and didn't stain or paint it beforehand.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrick@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, 18 June 2013 11:32 AM
To: Tim Davis BN7; Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block

 

I think we need to discuss what kind of wood would be best :)

 

Rick

"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

  _____  

From: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> 
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block


" All I did was to cut a small piece of wood to size. "

It can't be that simple.

Tim Davis BN7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 20:07:09 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Healey List List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 20:05:24 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac5ryEtrGi8QZpwVTPq3OKoOnUMWTg==
Subject: [Healeys] I'm stumped
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

BJ7 sat for 40 odd years. Fuel line from pump to carbs clear. Tried two new
pumps. One SU square body (tried two different bodies) . Replaced
steel/brass banjos to rubber hose with nipples and installed a facet LP
pump. Replaced fuel tank believing the pick up tube was rusted through on
old tank. Checked filler breather. 

 Symptom: car runs for a couple miles and the pump stops pumping (looses
suction) However will pump a steady/adequate quantity when disconnected from
float bowls. Floats and level adjustment at spec. New needles and seat. Hot
or cold.. tried every fix know to man. 3 times at least..still no joy

 What is going on?

dave

 

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 20:51:30 2013
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here we go again!!!
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 20:53:18 2013
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have a driver side seat back foam, never used, to give away.  had it about 5 years and realized i would never use it, only used the bottom foam.  yours for the shipping cost.  
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References: <DA893A42C76B489C8CA30AE2F7DD5FA2@oscar>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 19:57:18 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Dave Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I'm stumped
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Are floats filling with fuel?
Needle/seat not aligned?
Ghost in the machine?
Frozen 2"block of oak wood stuck in the wrong weight oil.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Jun 17, 2013 7:05 PM, "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com> wrote:

> BJ7 sat for 40 odd years. Fuel line from pump to carbs clear. Tried two new
> pumps. One SU square body (tried two different bodies) . Replaced
> steel/brass banjos to rubber hose with nipples and installed a facet LP
> pump. Replaced fuel tank believing the pick up tube was rusted through on
> old tank. Checked filler breather.
>
>  Symptom: car runs for a couple miles and the pump stops pumping (looses
> suction) However will pump a steady/adequate quantity when disconnected
> from
> float bowls. Floats and level adjustment at spec. New needles and seat. Hot
> or cold.. tried every fix know to man. 3 times at least..still no joy
>
>  What is going on?
>
> dave
>
>
>
> frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
>
> gallery:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
> GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
> pictures-fun facts-my world
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 21:09:41 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3@gmail.com>
References: <DA893A42C76B489C8CA30AE2F7DD5FA2@oscar>
	<CACPMnYqb8Sycrk-QJzNyGe9GYTs26wRVomxWarOG-RFE2OVkug@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 21:07:31 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac5rz4vo1ayqT9FtRwOk3AC2yPDX0QAATjFg
Cc: 'Ahealey help' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I'm stumped
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Floats not in play. Whether they work or not, flow or no flow it doesn't
make the pump loose suction..  Got to be leak between tank and pump, but it
isn't to be found..

 

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world

  _____  

From: I Erbs [mailto:eyera3@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 8:57 PM
To: Dave Porter
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I'm stumped

 

Are floats filling with fuel?
Needle/seat not aligned?
Ghost in the machine?
Frozen 2"block of oak wood stuck in the wrong weight oil.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone

On Jun 17, 2013 7:05 PM, "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com> wrote:

BJ7 sat for 40 odd years. Fuel line from pump to carbs clear. Tried two new
pumps. One SU square body (tried two different bodies) . Replaced
steel/brass banjos to rubber hose with nipples and installed a facet LP
pump. Replaced fuel tank believing the pick up tube was rusted through on
old tank. Checked filler breather.

 Symptom: car runs for a couple miles and the pump stops pumping (looses
suction) However will pump a steady/adequate quantity when disconnected from
float bowls. Floats and level adjustment at spec. New needles and seat. Hot
or cold.. tried every fix know to man. 3 times at least..still no joy

 What is going on?

dave



frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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	with login) by smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com with SMTP; 17 Jun 2013
	21:54:54 -0700 PDT
From: "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>
To: "'BJ8 Healeys'" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>, "'Dave Murphy'"
	<roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <COL127-W365E1C68A963536BDDF310A3830@phx.gbl>
	<20130617193614.M3RMX.32035.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 16:54:54 +1200
Thread-index: Ac5r0TgyBU+blNCtS0ydR5fitkq7jwADY4Hw
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Big Healey Trunk Hinge Spacing Outside to outside
 Measurement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The outside measurements are the same on my 1962 tri-carb  -  26-9/16"
Luggage rack purchased in England in 1979 fitted perfectly with no
gaps.
My uprights actually rest on the bumper blade (not the brackets) and
the rack is horizontal with that set-up. When touring we used to hold
the spare wheel on the rack with a bungee cord, and put the luggage in
the boot.

Mark
Auckland, NZ


-----Original Message-----
From: BJ8 Healeys [mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, 18 June 2013 7:36 a.m.
To: Dave Murphy; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Big Healey Trunk Hinge Spacing Outside to
outside Measurement Survey Needed.

26-9/16" outside LH hinge to outside RH hinge, measured at the hinge
pins.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

---- Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com> wrote: 
> Thanks to all of those who replied to my emails headed by the
initial title, "[Healeys] Installation of Moss Luggage Rack on BJ8"~.
> But I have a problem with the dimensions of the upper mounting tabs
on the rack Moss sent me and was unable to get it to fit because the
upper mounting tabs on the rack were almost 1/2" too close together
for my car. 
>  
> The mounting tabs on the rack reasure about 26-3/4" to 26-13/32"
apart (inside edge to inside edge) which is about the same as how my
trunk hinges are spaced outside edge to outside edge. 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 00:46:38 2013
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References: <BAY172-W40B0EE2D038988A290F1ABC98C0@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 07:44:36 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: gturl@sympatico.ca
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Lubrication question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Geoff

The simplest solution is to go with a good 20/50 'Classic' oil. Millers,
Castrol, Penrite etc. The old engines need the higher viscosity and a 5/50
synthetic isn't really suitable. You can use the same oil in the gearbox as
a non-detergent oil is best for the overdrive. 'Modern' oils have
detergents which suspend small particles that can interfere with the o/d.

Derek


On Tue, Jun 18, 2013 at 3:00 AM, <gturl@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Its time for an oil change and I'm wondering what kind of engine oil would
> be
> most appropriate for a big Healey. I think someone once recommended 5W50
> Synthetic but I cant be sure (ie I cant find my notes!).
> While I'm on the subject, what gearbox lubricant do most people use? I
> understand I should avoid anything containing teflon for fear of
> interfering
> with the synchromesh.
> Thanks in advance..
> Carol and Geoff
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 01:47:40 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 09:45:45 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <51BF9E8B.2050609@earthlink.net>
	<1371515595.78479.YahooMailNeo@web124705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bench bleed master cylinder?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Not to worry about the warranty. It is cheap enough.
The grease coming out initially is the grease that is used during 
assembly. It is usually red (e.g.Girling) or blue (e.g. Ati). It is 
perfectly compatible with DOT 3/4 but I do not know if it will go with 
silicone/DOT5 brake fluid.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 18-6-2013 2:33, HealeyRick schreef:
> Bob,
>
> I had a similar problem after installing a new M/C.  Rather than
> removing it again to bench bleed it, I disconnected the outlet pipe on the M/C
> and replaced it with a short length of pipe without a fitting on one end.  I
> put a length of plastic tubing over the pipe end and the other end of the
> tubing into a can of brake fluid with about an inch of fluid in the bottom.
> You can then bleed the master using the brake pedal.  Make sure you don't let
> the brake reservoir run dry when you pump the brake pedal.  Strangely enough
> when I was bleeding the M/C some grease came out with the brake fluid.  After
> you get all the air out of the M/C replace the original outlet pipe and finish
> bleeding the calipers as before.   Good luck!
>
>
>   
> Rick
>
>
> "Madman in a death
> machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> ________________________________
>   From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
> To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 7:40 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] bench bleed master cylinder?
>   
>
> All,
>
> I've fitted a new
> 5/8" brake master cylinder to the tri-carb.  The part
> number on the box is
> PMB120X.  I've also rebuilt the two front calipers,
> including the square/quad
> o-ring between the halves.  After bleeding the
> system with an eezibleed, the
> brake pedal still has too much travel.  It
> doesn't go all the way to the
> floor and the travel doesn't change after
> pumping the pedal for a bit.
> Thoughts?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 02:26:13 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 10:20:37 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <BAY172-W40B0EE2D038988A290F1ABC98C0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Lubrication question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Best to use the recommended oil, 20W50 non synthetic, 
Pennrite/Valvoline/Castrol/Millers/Duckhams/Comma/Kroon etc. in the 
engine and if you have OverDrive also in the gearbox. In the gearbox you 
can also use straight 30 oil. If you have bronze synchro-rings in the 
gearbox do not use EP oil as they usually contain Cl or Ph based dopes 
that may effect bronze/brass which is also present in ODs.
Never use oil with teflon in any engine or gearbox, most certainly not 
in an OD or limited slip differential. Also graphite or MS in the oil is 
a nono with OD and limited slip. These substances reduce the friction 
necesary in synchrohubs and OD clutch.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 18-6-2013 4:00, gturl@sympatico.ca schreef:
> Its time for an oil change and I'm wondering what kind of engine oil would be
> most appropriate for a big Healey. I think someone once recommended 5W50
> Synthetic but I cant be sure (ie I cant find my notes!).
> While I'm on the subject, what gearbox lubricant do most people use? I
> understand I should avoid anything containing teflon for fear of interfering
> with the synchromesh.
> Thanks in advance..
> Carol and Geoff
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6418 - datum van uitgifte: 06/17/13
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 04:08:09 2013
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To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>,  'Healey List List'
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 06:05:47 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I'm stumped
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It can be a bit of a pain to do but I would suggest making an adapter (I used
an old cap) that will allow you to apply about 3 p.s.i. to the fuel tank.
Apply the pressure and wait.
Eventually fuel will appear where there is a leak between the tank and the
pump.

Michael S

-----Original Message-----
From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Sent: b2013-b06-b17 10:05 PM
To: "'Healey List List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] I'm stumped

BJ7 sat for 40 odd years. Fuel line from pump to carbs clear. Tried two new
pumps. One SU square body (tried two different bodies) . Replaced
steel/brass banjos to rubber hose with nipples and installed a facet LP
pump. Replaced fuel tank believing the pick up tube was rusted through on
old tank. Checked filler breather.

 Symptom: car runs for a couple miles and the pump stops pumping (looses
suction) However will pump a steady/adequate quantity when disconnected from
float bowls. Floats and level adjustment at spec. New needles and seat. Hot
or cold.. tried every fix know to man. 3 times at least..still no joy

 What is going on?

dave



frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world
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Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 03:44:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Supercar?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ebay item 300918114314.  Nice car, but look what else is on the showroom floor
to the right and behind the Maserati.  In good company.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 04:58:56 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] 2" wood block
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Thanks to all!

Now onto the fun of removing  everything to replace kingpin bushings and everything else..................AND a huge THANKS to Mr. Bob Yule (Auto farm in Canada)  who is going to ream and fit bushings on very short notice..................thanks again Bob you are the BEST!!!!!


Mitch  


1966  BJ8
1959 BN4
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 04:59:30 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 12:55:19 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <DA893A42C76B489C8CA30AE2F7DD5FA2@oscar>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I'm stumped
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Vacuum in fuel tank because of a blocked ventilation?
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 18-6-2013 4:05, David Porter schreef:
> BJ7 sat for 40 odd years. Fuel line from pump to carbs clear. Tried two new
> pumps. One SU square body (tried two different bodies) . Replaced
> steel/brass banjos to rubber hose with nipples and installed a facet LP
> pump. Replaced fuel tank believing the pick up tube was rusted through on
> old tank. Checked filler breather.
>
>   Symptom: car runs for a couple miles and the pump stops pumping (looses
> suction) However will pump a steady/adequate quantity when disconnected from
> float bowls. Floats and level adjustment at spec. New needles and seat. Hot
> or cold.. tried every fix know to man. 3 times at least..still no joy
>
>   What is going on?
>
> dave
>
>   
>
> frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
>
> gallery:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
> GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
> pictures-fun facts-my world
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6418 - datum van uitgifte: 06/17/13
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 05:03:28 2013
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	Tue, 18 Jun 2013 21:01:49 +1000
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <51c0317c.5180320a.64df.104a@mx.google.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 21:01:46 +1000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
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bBloody Kiwisb



Ha! Ha!



Depends on whether itbs metric or imperial!



Hoo Roo



Patrick



From: Michael Salter [mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Salter
Sent: Tuesday, 18 June 2013 8:08 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; 'HealeyRick'; 'Tim Davis BN7'
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] 2" distance block



I though that was what big sockets were for!!!!!

  _____

Sent: b2013-b06-b17 10:03 PM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block

G'day



Yes we could have a debate of whether hardwood or softwood would be best.



I used pine and didn't stain or paint it beforehand.



Hoo Roo



Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia



From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrick@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, 18 June 2013 11:32 AM
To: Tim Davis BN7; Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block



I think we need to discuss what kind of wood would be best :)



Rick

"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo

  _____

From: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block


" All I did was to cut a small piece of wood to size. "

It can't be that simple.

Tim Davis BN7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 05:10:18 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 19:08:10 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: Healey List List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I'm stumped
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like bad check valves.

On Tuesday, June 18, 2013, David Porter wrote:

> BJ7 sat for 40 odd years. Fuel line from pump to carbs clear. Tried two new
> pumps. One SU square body (tried two different bodies) . Replaced
> steel/brass banjos to rubber hose with nipples and installed a facet LP
> pump. Replaced fuel tank believing the pick up tube was rusted through on
> old tank. Checked filler breather.
>
>  Symptom: car runs for a couple miles and the pump stops pumping (looses
> suction) However will pump a steady/adequate quantity when disconnected
> from
> float bowls. Floats and level adjustment at spec. New needles and seat. Hot
> or cold.. tried every fix know to man. 3 times at least..still no joy
>
>  What is going on?
>
> dave
>
>
>
> frogeye@porterscustom.com <javascript:;>
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
>
> gallery:
> PorterCustomBicyclesStuff | porterscustombicycles<http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff>
>
> GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
> pictures-fun facts-my world
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 06:05:58 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 7:59:59 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] I'm stumped
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Couldn't it also be a partially blocked fuel line somewhere between the fuel pump and tha carbs.  Seems like it is pumping a while then stops-----kinda like saying--OK---"the bowls are full now so I don't need to pump any more"

tom
---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: 

=============
Vacuum in fuel tank because of a blocked ventilation?
Kees Oudesluijs
NL
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 06:31:25 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 05:26:39 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Supercar?
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Recommended engine oil is 10W-60!  Must have some loose tolerances.

Where would you even get that weight oil?

Bob


On 6/18/2013 3:44 AM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> Ebay item 300918114314.  Nice car, but look what else is on the showroom floor
> to the right and behind the Maserati.  In good company.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 06:38:29 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 14:36:46 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1371552294.3336.YahooMailClassic@web181106.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<51C051FF.3030003@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Supercar?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a few cans of 20W60 which is available through a number of 
suppliers in Europe. Don't know the situation across the big pond.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 18-6-2013 14:26, Bob Spidell schreef:
> Recommended engine oil is 10W-60!  Must have some loose tolerances.
>
> Where would you even get that weight oil?
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/18/2013 3:44 AM, Michael MacLean wrote:
>> Ebay item 300918114314.  Nice car, but look what else is on the 
>> showroom floor
>> to the right and behind the Maserati.  In good company.
>> Mike MacLean
>> 56 BN2
>> 60 AN5
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To: "caddi5@comcast.net" <caddi5@comcast.net>,  "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 08:56:45 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" wood block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Be sure to have the stub axles crack checked first.
Cracks at the root area are very common!!

-----Original Message-----
From: "caddi5@comcast.net" <caddi5@comcast.net>
Sent: b2013-b06-b18 6:57 AM
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 2" wood block

Thanks to all!

Now onto the fun of removing  everything to replace kingpin bushings and
everything else..................AND a huge THANKS to Mr. Bob Yule (Auto farm
in Canada)  who is going to ream and fit bushings on very short
notice..................thanks again Bob you are the BEST!!!!!


Mitch


1966  BJ8
1959 BN4
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 07:04:10 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 13:00:16 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] I'm stumped
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

List,

B 

If there's a leak between the pump and the tank, the pump will run
continuously w/o pumping fuel, right? If the pump stops, it has created
pressure on the delivery side, correct? Sounds to me like there is a partial
blockage on the delivery side of the pump, like within the pipe from the pump
to the flex line at in the engine bay. A partial blockage will allow the fuel
bowls to be filled at stop or idle, but not enough for a drive down the road.
Opening the fuel line at the carbs will show fuel delivery (pump continues to
run), but not enough fuel to operate the car.

B 

Had the same problem on my brother's TR6 earlier this year. Replacing the tank
to pump steel line solved the problem. Pump engine mounted on the TR6.B 

B 

Ed
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 08:22:34 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 08:20:34 -0600
Thread-index: Ac5sLv7sX2OeOSqeTdO1f60j6GIlHg==
Subject: [Healeys] fuel delivery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Found it..back side of delivery pipe is crushed just below the r side motor
mount bracket.. blended in with all the dirt and grease.. pretty hard to
see..

Thanks for all the suggestions, pay back is hell.. :~)

dave

 

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 12:53:47 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 16:25:15 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <425AEFF73E1D4490A8DCD77E36027B5A@oscar>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel delivery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Old bangers are such fun.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 18-6-2013 16:20, David Porter schreef:
> Found it..back side of delivery pipe is crushed just below the r side motor
> mount bracket.. blended in with all the dirt and grease.. pretty hard to
> see..
>
> Thanks for all the suggestions, pay back is hell.. :~)
>
> dave
>
>   
>
> frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
> Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
> Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
> 505-352-1378
> 1954 BN2  1959 AN5
> Porter Custom Bicycles
>
> gallery:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff
>
> GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
> pictures-fun facts-my world
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 13:02:05 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 09:47:51 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Supercar?
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<< On 6/18/2013 5:44 AM, Michael MacLean wrote:

Ebay item 300918114314.  Nice car  >>

INDEED ! !  I am not really avid about just about anything these days but this one would make my 'list' <G> ! !

But, WHAT is up with the red & blue center caps - 2 per side ?  New version of knock-offs which are 'on-off' (Do NOT start/continue 'thread' ref names on knock-offs, PLZ !  LOL)? ? ?

<snip>

<<  In good company. >>

INDEED, Mike.  Thanks for post <G> !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:				www.justbrits.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 13:56:22 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel delivery
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<< On 6/18/2013 9:20 AM, David Porter wrote:

pay back is hell.. >>

Gee Dave, I thought the 100 'did' it ? ! ?	LOL

Anon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 15:49:02 2013
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221236412580

In Southhampton, NY - Dealer car


-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 16:11:14 2013
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To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>,  "healeys@autox.team.net"
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Very nice indeed---but $90K??


---- "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com> wrote: 

=============
221236412580

In Southhampton, NY - Dealer car


-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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	<steveg@abrazosdata.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20130618214526.17553.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<20130618180504.SQTVS.1905.root@pamxwww07-z01>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 08:22:11 +1000
Thread-Index: AQHWDaa2PqEXeRsXeBiRvTJ2lbYhqZksx/iw
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Very nice BN7 on eBay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

As an avid watcher of Healey and Austin-Healey prices as it always makes for
a good page in our club magazine I would have thought that US$90K to be
high.

The attention to detail by the restorer wasn't 100% either. It is a US
delivered car and therefore carries a chassis number of BN7L/xxxx, but the L
is missing from the reproduced chassis plate.

Am I a pedant? Yes I suppose I am especially when such big $$$ is being
asked.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Wednesday, 19 June 2013 8:05 AM
To: Steve B. Gerow; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Very nice BN7 on eBay

Very nice indeed---but $90K??


---- "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com> wrote: 

=============
221236412580

In Southhampton, NY - Dealer car


--
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 16:29:18 2013
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References: <002101ce6c71$39dfb6f0$ad9f24d0$@com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 12:23:04 -1000
From: Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: FW: craigslist post 3879655121: "1959 Austin Healey
	3000"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, I'm selling my BT7, please see Craigslist link attached. Included in
the sale to list members is a Concourse,  THE LIST  cap, Lake Tahoe 2002.
Email me or call Jim Briske 808-572-2602.  Aloha,  Jim



* *

* *


*Subject:* craigslist post 3879655121: "1959 Austin Healey 3000"****

** **

Posting ID # 3879655121:****

"1959 Austin Healey 3000" (cars & trucks - by owner)****

Should now be viewable at the following URL:****

http://honolulu.craigslist.org/mau/cto/3879655121.html****

Index pages and search results are updated every 15 minutes.****

To edit or delete, please log in to your account.****

If you are having trouble finding your ad in the listings:****

http://www.craigslist.org/about/help/how_to_find_your_post_in_the_listings**
**

For other questions or help:****

http://www.craigslist.org/about/help/****

Safety tips and avoiding scams:****

http://www.craigslist.org/about/safety
http://www.craigslist.org/about/scams****

Thanks for using craigslist!****
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 16:57:35 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 16:57:55 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:20.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: FW: craigslist post 3879655121: "1959 Austin
 Healey 3000"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Kimo Briske wrote:
> Hi, I'm selling my BT7, please see Craigslist link attached. Included in
> the sale to list members is a Concourse,  THE LIST  cap, Lake Tahoe 2002.
>
I've got one of those hats as well:

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=156

Not in pristine condition, though.


mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 17:03:21 2013
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Received: (qmail 4617 invoked by uid 2007); 18 Jun 2013 23:01:26 -0000
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 15:01:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Temp_gauge_30_degrees_off_-_why=3F?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello listers,

Last weekend I adjusted my temp gauge pointer - it was showing 30+ degrees hot. 

I removed the thermostat and fan belt and inserted a cooking thermometer of known accuracy next to the temp gauge pickup bulb. Then removed the needle from the gauge and ran the engine to 190 degrees re-attaching the needle at 190 indicated. This appears to have worked properly.

Does anyone know how the gauge gets out of adjustment, especially that far?

-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 16:10:17 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Dynaliner for heat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Has anyone used Dynaliner (a foam insulator) instead of jute or 
another carpet pad? If so what are your comments?

Thank you,
John Spaur
San Jose, CA
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130618160907.02024a60@pop.att.yahoo.com>
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 16:29:52 -0700
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dynaliner for heat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We install Dynamat and Dynaliner in all the interiors we install
unless the owner insists on not using it.
The cars that we have used it in have had no complaints about heat.
Remember to line the transmission tunnel on both sides with Dynamat




David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

o?<


Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

On Jun 18, 2013, at 4:10 PM, john spaur wrote:

> Has anyone used Dynaliner (a foam insulator) instead of jute or
> another carpet pad? If so what are your comments?
>
> Thank you,
> John Spaur
> San Jose, CA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 16:46:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys]
 =?utf-8?q?=EF=BB=BFTemp_gauge_30_degrees_off_-_why=3F?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve,

I wouldn't be too concerned.B  I think you've single handedly found
the solution to years of Healey over heating.B  All we need to do is remove
our temp needles and replace them to an acceptable temperature point.B 
Problem solved!




B 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy
Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From:
Steve B. Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net"
<healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2013 7:01 PM
Subject:
[Healeys] o;?Temp gauge 30 degrees off - why?
 

Hello listers,

Last weekend
I adjusted my temp gauge pointer - it was showing 30+ degrees hot. 

I removed
the thermostat and fan belt and inserted a cooking thermometer of known
accuracy next to the temp gauge pickup bulb. Then removed the needle from the
gauge and ran the engine to 190 degrees re-attaching the needle at 190
indicated. This appears to have worked properly.

Does anyone know how the
gauge gets out of adjustment, especially that far?

-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena,
CA
BN6
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 18:07:47 2013
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130618160907.02024a60@pop.att.yahoo.com>
From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 17:00:46 -0700
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dynaliner for heat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes.  Works wonders

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 18, 2013, at 4:10 PM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Has anyone used Dynaliner (a foam insulator) instead of jute or another
carpet pad? If so what are your comments?
>
> Thank you,
> John Spaur
> San Jose, CA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 18:19:16 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 19:03:01 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: FW: craigslist post 3879655121: "1959 Austin
 Healey 3000"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 6/18/2013 5:23 PM, Kimo Briske wrote:

Included in the sale to list members is a Concourse, >>

Shopping mall, grand hotel, Broadway theater, or where, Kimo ? ?

Ed
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 18:22:23 2013
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From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 17:04:01 -0700
To: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
Cc: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>,
	"healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp gauge 30 degrees off - why?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Remember to test it at 20, 50 and 80%   If possible.   Otherwise you might
only be accurate at the low or high end of the scale.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 18, 2013, at 4:46 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Steve,
>
> I wouldn't be too concerned.B  I think you've single handedly found
> the solution to years of Healey over heating.B  All we need to do is remove
> our temp needles and replace them to an acceptable temperature point.B
> Problem solved!
>
>
>
>
> B
> Rick
>
>
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy
> Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
>
>
> ________________________________
> From:
> Steve B. Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
> To: "healeys@autox.team.net"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2013 7:01 PM
> Subject:
> [Healeys] o;?Temp gauge 30 degrees off - why?
>
>
> Hello listers,
>
> Last weekend
> I adjusted my temp gauge pointer - it was showing 30+ degrees hot.
>
> I removed
> the thermostat and fan belt and inserted a cooking thermometer of known
> accuracy next to the temp gauge pickup bulb. Then removed the needle from
the
> gauge and ran the engine to 190 degrees re-attaching the needle at 190
> indicated. This appears to have worked properly.
>
> Does anyone know how the
> gauge gets out of adjustment, especially that far?
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Altadena,
> CA
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 18:33:13 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 17:09:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Healey List List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 



I'm thinking the boffins at Abingdon used English Yew.  It worked a
treat  at Agincourt.


 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty
Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au;
healeyrick@yahoo.com; tld6008@mchsi.com 
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Tuesday, June 18, 2013 7:21 PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] 2" distance block
"didn't stain or paint it beforehand" Barbarian!

> From: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> To: healeyrick@yahoo.com; tld6008@mchsi.com
> Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013
12:02:09 +1000
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2"
distance block
> 
> G'day
> 
> 
> 
> Yes we could have a debate of whether
hardwood or softwood would be best.
> 
> 
> 
> I used pine and didn't stain or
paint it beforehand.
> 
> 
> 
> Hoo Roo
> 
> 
> 
> Patrick Quinn
> 
> Blue
Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 18:34:07 2013
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 16:14:16 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Temp_gauge_30_degrees_off_-_why=3F?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tracy,
Thanks for the suggestions. 

I ran it to 190, installed the needle, turned off the motor; it coasted up a few degrees then I observed it down to below 160 before I buttoned up the t-stat. The gauge stayed in coincidence with the cooking thermometer. Harbor freight laser thermometer confirms same temp from outside. So it's a lot closer than before.

I was going to have it overhauled but couldn't get the bulb nut out. Think I rounded it a little. Decided to do it the above way. Still a lot better than being 30 degrees off.


-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena CA
BN6


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>

>  
>  Remember to test it at 20, 50 and 80%   If possible.   Otherwise you might only be accurate at the low or high end of the scale.    
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 18:34:40 2013
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From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 17:15:19 -0700
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp gauge 30 degrees off - why?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yea. Lets go drive.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 18, 2013, at 5:14 PM, "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com> wrote:

> Tracy,
> Thanks for the suggestions.
>
> I ran it to 190, installed the needle, turned off the motor; it coasted up a
few degrees then I observed it down to below 160 before I buttoned up the
t-stat. The gauge stayed in coincidence with the cooking thermometer. Harbor
freight laser thermometer confirms same temp from outside. So it's a lot
closer than before.
>
> I was going to have it overhauled but couldn't get the bulb nut out. Think I
rounded it a little. Decided to do it the above way. Still a lot better than
being 30 degrees off.
>
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Altadena CA
> BN6
>
>
>> -------Original Message-------
>> From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
>
>>
>> Remember to test it at 20, 50 and 80%   If possible.   Otherwise you might
only be accurate at the low or high end of the scale.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 19:31:01 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Temp_gauge_30_degrees_off_-_why=3F?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,

With overheating one would expect the gauge to read low. One would think the needle would hit the stop and the shaft would keep rotating.

Now if it was in very cold weather, the shaft would go the other way and the needle would read high.

-- 
Steve Gerow



Healey Rick wrote -
>  
>  I wouldn't be too concerned.  I think you've single handedly found the
>  solution to years of Healey over heating.  All we need to do is remove our
>  temp needles and replace them to an acceptable temperature point.  Problem
>  solved!
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 19:31:40 2013
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References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130618160907.02024a60@pop.att.yahoo.com>
From: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 20:24:45 -0500
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
	FILETIME=[CBD0DD40:01CE6C8B]
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dynaliner for heat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I used dynamat on my BN7 and it works

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 18, 2013, at 6:15 PM, "john spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Has anyone used Dynaliner (a foam insulator) instead of jute or another
carpet pad? If so what are your comments?
>
> Thank you,
> John Spaur
> San Jose, CA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 19:33:07 2013
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	<51C0E5F3.6070705@bradakis.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 18:29:15 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: FW: craigslist post 3879655121: "1959 Austin
 Healey 3000"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mine is in great shape. Plan to wear it next week at Lake Tahoe.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Jun 18, 2013 3:57 PM, "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> Kimo Briske wrote:
>
>> Hi, I'm selling my BT7, please see Craigslist link attached. Included in
>> the sale to list members is a Concourse,  THE LIST  cap, Lake Tahoe 2002.
>>
>>  I've got one of those hats as well:
>
> http://www.team.net/forums/**viewtopic.php?f=13&t=156<http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=156>
>
> Not in pristine condition, though.
>
>
> mjb.
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 20:09:25 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp gauge 30 degrees off - why?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

re: "Now if it was in very cold weather, the shaft would go the other way and the needle would read high. "

Only if you used coolant instead of antifreeze.



Sorry.

bs



On 6/18/2013 6:23 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
> Rick,
>
> With overheating one would expect the gauge to read low. One would think the needle would hit the stop and the shaft would keep rotating.
>
> Now if it was in very cold weather, the shaft would go the other way and the needle would read high.
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 21:48:40 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 20:43:31 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Temp gauge 30 degrees off - why?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I was a passenger in a Jag sedan that had a serious water leak.
The driver would pull over when the engine temp read 70PSI.  Yes the needle
would go past 180 degrees.
Rick

On Tue, Jun 18, 2013 at 6:23 PM, Steve B. Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>wrote:

> Rick,
>
> With overheating one would expect the gauge to read low. One would think
> the needle would hit the stop and the shaft would keep rotating.
>
> Now if it was in very cold weather, the shaft would go the other way and
> the needle would read high.
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
>
>
>
> Healey Rick wrote -
> >
> >  I wouldn't be too concerned.  I think you've single handedly found the
> >  solution to years of Healey over heating.  All we need to do is remove
> our
> >  temp needles and replace them to an acceptable temperature point.
>  Problem
> >  solved!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 23:09:48 2013
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	<51C01855.8020003@chello.nl>
From: Greg <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 00:57:49 -0400
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Lubrication question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I use 20/50 Valvoline Racing oil as it has the requisite ZDDT, and straight 30
in the tranny fitted with OD. Both available at the local auto store.

Greg

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 18, 2013, at 4:20 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Best to use the recommended oil, 20W50 non synthetic,
Pennrite/Valvoline/Castrol/Millers/Duckhams/Comma/Kroon etc. in the engine and
if you have OverDrive also in the gearbox. In the gearbox you can also use
straight 30 oil. If you have bronze synchro-rings in the gearbox do not use EP
oil as they usually contain Cl or Ph based dopes that may effect bronze/brass
which is also present in ODs.
> Never use oil with teflon in any engine or gearbox, most certainly not in an
OD or limited slip differential. Also graphite or MS in the oil is a nono with
OD and limited slip. These substances reduce the friction necesary in
synchrohubs and OD clutch.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
> Op 18-6-2013 4:00, gturl@sympatico.ca schreef:
>> Its time for an oil change and I'm wondering what kind of engine oil would
be
>> most appropriate for a big Healey. I think someone once recommended 5W50
>> Synthetic but I cant be sure (ie I cant find my notes!).
>> While I'm on the subject, what gearbox lubricant do most people use? I
>> understand I should avoid anything containing teflon for fear of
interfering
>> with the synchromesh.
>> Thanks in advance..
>> Carol and Geoff
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6418 - datum van uitgifte:
06/17/13
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmandas@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 01:48:16 2013
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 17:46:09 +1000
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: FW: craigslist post 3879655121: "1959 Austin
 Healey 3000"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira,
If anyone asks about your concours 2002 Tahoe hat, tell them you broke down,
and are 11 years late ......
;-)
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 19/06/2013, at 11:29 AM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:

> Mine is in great shape. Plan to wear it next week at Lake Tahoe.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
> On Jun 18, 2013 3:57 PM, "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:
>
>> Kimo Briske wrote:
>>
>>> Hi, I'm selling my BT7, please see Craigslist link attached. Included in
>>> the sale to list members is a Concourse,  THE LIST  cap, Lake Tahoe 2002.
>>>
>>> I've got one of those hats as well:
>>
>>
http://www.team.net/forums/**viewtopic.php?f=13&t=156<http://www.team.net/for
ums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=156>
>>
>> Not in pristine condition, though.
>>
>>
>> mjb.
>> ______________________________**_______________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 10:56:09 2013
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From: "Bruce Starke" <bstarke@telus.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 10:53:16 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] travel gree+question for Dutch listers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am hoping to be in Amsterdam for a couple of days in September and wonder
how to get to the Healey museum from Central Station? I also want to go to
s'Gravenmoer which is a bit further away. ( my old BJ7 is now there and fully
restored and would love to see it!)  Would it be possible to get to both
easily using public transport or would it be better to rent a car? I have
travelled in the Netherlands several times previously but not for 20 years!
thanks
Bruce Starke
Golden BC
1962 Tricarb
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 14:14:51 2013
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Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 22:08:55 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <3FF64B7AA2994419BC06C957E5940B0E@BruceStarkePC>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] travel gree+question for Dutch listers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Op 19-6-2013 18:53, Bruce Starke schreef:
> I am hoping to be in Amsterdam for a couple of days in September and wonder
> how to get to the Healey museum from Central Station? I also want to go to
> s'Gravenmoer which is a bit further away. ( my old BJ7 is now there and fully
> restored and would love to see it!)  Would it be possible to get to both
> easily using public transport or would it be better to rent a car? I have
> travelled in the Netherlands several times previously but not for 20 years!
> thanks
> Bruce Starke
> Golden BC
> 1962 Tricarb
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6422 - datum van uitgifte: 06/18/13
>
>
This public transport site in English should get you there. It will not 
be easy though.

http://9292.nl/en#
Kees Oudesluijs

NL
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 18:04:49 2013
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 23:57:33 +0000
References: <010301ce6b46$7f3ba0a0$7db2e1e0$@tpg.com.au>,
	<1081910278.4170981371518418458.JavaMail.root@dsmdc-mail-mbs14>,
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	FILETIME=[C3FF6290:01CE6D48]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Or hearts of oak...

Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 16:42:31 -0700
From: healeyrick@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
To: ynotink@msn.com; tld6008@mchsi.com

I'm thinking the boffins at Abingdon used English Yew.  It worked at
Agincourt.

 Rick

"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
        From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
 To: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au; healeyrick@yahoo.com; tld6008@mchsi.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
 Sent: Tuesday,
 June 18, 2013 7:21 PM
 Subject: RE: [Healeys] 2" distance block





"didn't stain or paint it beforehand" Barbarian!

> From: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> To: healeyrick@yahoo.com; tld6008@mchsi.com
> Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 12:02:09 +1000
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2" distance block
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> Yes we could have a debate of whether hardwood or softwood would be best.
>
>
>
> I used pine and didn't stain or paint it beforehand.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 07:08:03 2013
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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 09:04:59 -0400
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Vehicle Auction (No LBC)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

but lots of American Iron from 1906 forward, including lots of Cushman
scooters. I'm am not sure if you can get to this without signing up with
Proxibid, but it is kinda interesting.

https://www.proxibid.com/asp/catalog.asp?aid=65670


NFI.

Bob Johnson
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 07:45:47 2013
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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 08:43:55 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vehicle Auction (No LBC)
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W O W ! ! !

<<  On 6/20/2013 8:04 AM, Bob Johnson wrote:

I'm am not sure if you can get to this without signing up with Proxibid, >>

I did Bob.  <VBG>

<< but it is kinda interesting. >>
  
THAT is an UNDERSTATEMENT (as long as one has open 'car' mind - LOL).

There are some GREAT 'steals' going on (if<G> prices 'hold' or don't go up
toooo far<G>). ! !

THANKS ! !

Ed
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 07:11:16 2013
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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 09:08:36 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Quantum Mechanics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been trying, both via email and phone, to contact John Esposito of
Quantum Mechanics for several weeks and can get no response.
Does anyone on the list know if he is still around?

-- 
Michael Salter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 07:27:50 2013
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LLKtHEp5YnaFy6RpMrmSzU650pU+_jVYQcWuKs2R9Wi0w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 09:25:49 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quantum Mechanics
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Web site with a 2013 date has a new phone and address:

We've Moved!
315 Riggs St. Bldg. A Unit 3
Oxford, Conn. 06478
Phone 203-463-8299
Fax 203-828-6039

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 9:09 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Quantum Mechanics

I have been trying, both via email and phone, to contact John Esposito of
Quantum Mechanics for several weeks and can get no response.
Does anyone on the list know if he is still around?

--
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 08:20:19 2013
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To: michaelsalter@gmail.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 07:17:32 -0700
From: rd_parker@juno.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quantum Mechanics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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He might have become caught up in a string of subatomic particles; after
all he is associated with 'Quantum Mechanics!. Sorry, I just could not
resist the urge.

BP.
Bellflower, CA. 
On Fri, 21 Jun 2013 09:08:36 -0400 Michael Salter
<michaelsalter@gmail.com> writes:
> I have been trying, both via email and phone, to contact John 
> Esposito of
> Quantum Mechanics for several weeks and can get no response.
> Does anyone on the list know if he is still around?
> 
> -- 
> Michael Salter
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker@juno.com
> 
> 
 
____________________________________________________________
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Get the latest details on the new BlackBerry 10 smartphone.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 10:02:12 2013
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From: Simon Griffin <simon_grif@msn.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 10:59:56 -0500
	FILETIME=[60A08520:01CE6E98]
Subject: [Healeys] The 100 engine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My attention is turning back to the 100.   The MGB is now running to my
satisfaction and will provide summer driving fun, so I can now focus on my
real mistress!!

I am going to pull the engine and and clean it up and inspect it.  It has not
run for a very long time so I don't really know what horrors I will encounter.
So plan to strip down and rebuild the engine.  Anyway, what is the current
thinking on the head?

Mine is still the original Westlake cast iron, leaded fuel era.   Is it best
to work with this head and use fuel additives or convert over to the modern
unleaded head?  Of course if it turns out that my head is cracked and
un-useable the decision is somewhat made, but at least for now I am rather
conflicted.  On the one hand my heart says stay original, on the other, my
head says that perhaps now is the time to upgrade the engine.   I would really
appreciate some insight into this?

Thanks
Simon
Troy, IL
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 10:10:18 2013
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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 16:07:55 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Simon Griffin <simon_grif@msn.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1371830876;
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The 100 engine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Others will provide good technical answers. Here's the psychological one: 

Since the head will be in your hands, take it to a good machine shop and get hardened seats and Stellite (or similar) exhaust valves installed. If you don't, you'll always wonder if you should have; if you do, well, you won't. 

Bob 

ps. I had hardened seats installed in my BJ8 at rebuild about 100K miles ago. I check the rocker clearances every 10-15K miles or so and, near as I can tell, the gaps haven't changed. 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


My attention is turning back to the 100. The MGB is now running to my 
satisfaction and will provide summer driving fun, so I can now focus on my 
real mistress!! 

I am going to pull the engine and and clean it up and inspect it. It has not 
run for a very long time so I don't really know what horrors I will encounter. 
So plan to strip down and rebuild the engine. Anyway, what is the current 
thinking on the head? 

Mine is still the original Westlake cast iron, leaded fuel era. Is it best 
to work with this head and use fuel additives or convert over to the modern 
unleaded head? Of course if it turns out that my head is cracked and 
un-useable the decision is somewhat made, but at least for now I am rather 
conflicted. On the one hand my heart says stay original, on the other, my 
head says that perhaps now is the time to upgrade the engine. I would really 
appreciate some insight into this? 

Thanks 
Simon 
Troy, IL 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 11:26:36 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quantum Mechanics
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<< On 6/21/2013 9:17 AM, rd_parker@juno.com wrote:
> .....string of subatomic particles;  .... >>
Bob, having totally forgotten everything learnt in physics ('Physics 
101' H.S. & Collage versions) classes
(except minor stuff like 'inertia' <G>) I need to ask would each 
subatomic particles be 'rotating', would a cluster of subatomic 
particles be 'rotating' or would the string of subatomic particles be 
'rotating' ? ? ?

Sorry, I also just could not resist the urge.

Ed
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<51C47EBC.2050105@justbrits.com>
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 09:51:38 -0700
To: Just Brits Shop <shop@justbrits.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quantum Mechanics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I started out as a quantum mechanic, but then I found that auto mechanics paid
better.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 21, 2013, at 9:26, "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com> wrote:

> << On 6/21/2013 9:17 AM, rd_parker@juno.com wrote:
>> .....string of subatomic particles;  .... >>
> Bob, having totally forgotten everything learnt in physics ('Physics
> 101' H.S. & Collage versions) classes
> (except minor stuff like 'inertia' <G>) I need to ask would each
> subatomic particles be 'rotating', would a cluster of subatomic
> particles be 'rotating' or would the string of subatomic particles be
> 'rotating' ? ? ?
>
> Sorry, I also just could not resist the urge.
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Whereabouts of Esposito
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 Sorry, but we can tell you his momentum or his location but not both.
G>



Gary Anderson
Editor-at-Large
Austin-Healey Magazine





-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-request <healeys-request@autox.team.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jun 21, 2013 11:04 am
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 319


Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Quantum Mechanics (Michael Salter)
   2. Re: Quantum Mechanics (John Sims)
   3. Re: Quantum Mechanics (rd_parker@juno.com)
   4. The 100 engine (Simon Griffin)
   5. Re: The 100 engine (Bob Spidell)
   6. Re: Quantum Mechanics (" Just Brits " Shop)
   7. Re: Quantum Mechanics (Richard Ewald)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 09:08:36 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Quantum Mechanics
Message-ID:
	<CAB3i7LLKtHEp5YnaFy6RpMrmSzU650pU+_jVYQcWuKs2R9Wi0w@mail.gmail.com>

I have been trying, both via email and phone, to contact John Esposito of
Quantum Mechanics for several weeks and can get no response.
Does anyone on the list know if he is still around?

--
Michael Salter




End of Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 319
***************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 15:28:24 2013
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 17:25:20 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quantum Mechanics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Many thanks to everyone for your insightful and instructive comments.
It would appear that Mr Esposito's whereabouts are as well defined as those of
the Higg's Boson.
If anyone does happen to come across him, in their personal large hadron
collider, or  elsewhere please let me know.

-----Original Message-----
From: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Sent: b2013-b06-b21 12:51 PM
To: "Just Brits Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quantum Mechanics

I started out as a quantum mechanic, but then I found that auto mechanics
paid
better.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 21, 2013, at 9:26, "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com> wrote:

> << On 6/21/2013 9:17 AM, rd_parker@juno.com wrote:
>> .....string of subatomic particles;  .... >>
> Bob, having totally forgotten everything learnt in physics ('Physics
> 101' H.S. & Collage versions) classes
> (except minor stuff like 'inertia' <G>) I need to ask would each
> subatomic particles be 'rotating', would a cluster of subatomic
> particles be 'rotating' or would the string of subatomic particles be
> 'rotating' ? ? ?
>
> Sorry, I also just could not resist the urge.
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 17:20:08 2013
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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 16:17:57 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Door plugs - BT7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On one door, on the bottom, there are three 3/4" round holes. On the 
other door, which was a replacement at some time, there is one hole.

Should these holes receive a rubber plug similar to some on the fire wall?

They are not shown in the parts book but I have a small bag of door 
parts and there is one such plug in the bag.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 18:28:24 2013
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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 17:22:05 -0700
From: "rrengineer.mike" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Bracket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Can someone send me a picture of how the shroud is connected to the frame at the bottom where the bumper brackets go?
Mike MacLean
rrengineer.mike@att.net


Sent via the Samsung Galaxy Sb" III, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 18:24:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
To: Austin Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Source for Sidescreen parts?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I'm in the process of restoring the Sidescreens on my AH MkII 3000 BN7
and have not been able to find a source for three parts.  The rubber bumpers
on the RH & LH rear mounting brackets. The rubber bumpers in the upper corner
of the Sidescreens and the aluminum drip ledges on the lower rear outside of
the Sidescreens.  For clarification I have post pictures of these components
at the following URL:
http://semahc.com/Austin%20Healey%20Side%20Screen%20Parts.htm

Any help on
finding a source for these parts will greatly appreciated

Ron Mitchell
BN6
BN7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 21:27:34 2013
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From: Simon Griffin <simon_grif@msn.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 22:25:03 -0500
References: <SNT131-W16698363E32A8F8A22E0D5F68F0@phx.gbl>,
	<002b01ce6ef6$b1b6cb00$15246100$@de>
	FILETIME=[15A3BC80:01CE6EF8]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The 100 engine
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Thanks everyone for the feedback and thoughts.   I appreciate it as I ponder
the plans for the restoration.   Key here seems to be to make sure that the
head is properly inspected for cracks by someone that knows what they are
doing.  The results of such an inspection will influence heavily the next
steps.  Thanks again. Simon
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	(jmsdarch@69.106.234.181 with login) by smtp119.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
	with SMTP; 22 Jun 2013 05:38:03 +0000 UTC
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 22:38:01 -0700
To: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
  >
References: <1371864297.24069.YahooMailNeo@web121805.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Cc: Austin Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Source for Sidescreen parts?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ron,

Back in 1999 I bought some parts from Steele Rubber Products:

http://www.steelerubber.com

I am not entirely certain which ones I used on my sidescreens but you 
can check the part numbers below and call them if you need more info.

33-0127-41
33-0136-42
33-0349-87
33-1285-42

John
'62 BT7

At 06:24 PM 6/21/2013 -0700, Ron Mitchell wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'm in the process of restoring the Sidescreens on my AH MkII 3000 BN7
>and have not been able to find a source for three parts.  The rubber bumpers
>on the RH & LH rear mounting brackets. The rubber bumpers in the upper corner
>of the Sidescreens and the aluminum drip ledges on the lower rear outside of
>the Sidescreens.  For clarification I have post pictures of these components
>at the following URL:
>http://semahc.com/Austin%20Healey%20Side%20Screen%20Parts.htm
>
>Any help on
>finding a source for these parts will greatly appreciated
>
>Ron Mitchell
>BN6
>BN7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 19:22:22 2013
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Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 20:16:31 -0500
Thread-Topic: 1959 100-6 Healey
thread-index: Ac5vr0sRj5U9s3lnS4mosbDOYRkkow==
From: "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello, I am new to this list.  Just purchased a 1959 austin healey 100-6 which
has a newly rebuilt engine, and underwent a full restoration in 1990.  I have
some questions on things I found wrong on the car:

1.  The car runs better with choke half out, high idle.  I put the choke in,
and it eventually stalls.  Tonight, it may have flooded, or vapor locked
because I cannot get it restarted.  I will let it sit for a couple hours.  Is
this a simple carb tune-up issue?

2.  The clutch makes a howling noise intermittently when fully engaged, and it
is hard to shift into gear--this in intermittent.  It is almost like the
hydraulic fluid may be low, so the clutch is not fully disengaging.  But why
is it so intermittent?

3.  This newly rebuilt engine has only a few hundred miles on it--I have the
build sheet from the specialty British shop that did the work.  But the car
has some mild oil leaks.  The seller says this is normal bbutecause of the
leather gaskets--I noticed the biggest leak is on the passenger side, where
the distributor assembly bolts to the block.  Is it normal for all Healeys to
leak some oil?

The car is in great shape, but I don't feel comfortable driving it because of
the worry it may quit or flood or vapor lock, or something.

Looking forward to your opinions.

Chris in Iowa.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 21:40:58 2013
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 13:41:17 +1000
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To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys at LeMans Classic 2013
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just watched the classic sports car race ( 1948 - 65 )  held prior to 
the 24 Hour race, shown on Speedweek live.
I saw two white and Lobiela 100.S and a dark green 100.S  ( was not a 
clear image ). Also shown several times was DD300.
At the same time there was a film on another station of the 1955 LeMans 
race with interviews with John Fitch and Norman Dewis etc and a frame by 
frame digital image of the accident

Healeys ran at LeMans from the 1949 to 1970, a long time for a small 
outfit. Starting with production cars and progressing to rear engined 
prototypes.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 22:04:47 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 14:02:05 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac5vxlG4X0ZQMJjoRt6DPt91moBcdg==
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] Metallic Green Suspension
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

This morning I started to strip the black paint from the front wheel/brake
backing plates of the BN3 and was reminded of when I last did it in the late
1970s.

 

Back then I found that the plates had been originally painted metallic
green, along with rest of the suspension and steering arms.

 

That some of the metallic green paint is still on one of the backing plates
shows how diligent I was thirty plus years ago.

 

Perhaps someone on the list (like a John Harper) has come across metallic
green suspension components before and can tell me where the suspension
comes from? I've always known that there is something slightly different
with the car's suspension and brakes.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 23:52:40 2013
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References: <004a01ce6fc6$6dcfb660$496f2320$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 15:46:59 +1000
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Metallic Green Suspension
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Patrick

I have a set of stub axles/king pins that came with my (now V6) BN1 which 
are painted light metallic green. This appears to be the original colour ie 
there doesn't appear to be anything underneath. They are the same as BN1 
parts, but I was told they were from a sedan (A40?)

Cheers

Peter

-----Original Message----- 
From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 2:02 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Metallic Green Suspension

G'day



This morning I started to strip the black paint from the front wheel/brake
backing plates of the BN3 and was reminded of when I last did it in the late
1970s.



Back then I found that the plates had been originally painted metallic
green, along with rest of the suspension and steering arms.



That some of the metallic green paint is still on one of the backing plates
shows how diligent I was thirty plus years ago.



Perhaps someone on the list (like a John Harper) has come across metallic
green suspension components before and can tell me where the suspension
comes from? I've always known that there is something slightly different
with the car's suspension and brakes.



Hoo Roo
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 02:36:00 2013
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References: <D6A64D75CE0E5D4B885C03FD707DB4A6B6369E@server.visioncenter.local>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 10:33:32 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Chris,

Welcome on board!

I think I am unable to do any real diagnosis through the net, but if You
are not fully prepared to do the work on the car, it is my best advice that
You should find a good specialist in your neighbourhood who will help You
with the issues. Theese are oldschool mechanics, they need maintenance and
care, but if they are looked after, they will make many problemfree miles
for You.

Best wishes:
Gergo


2013/6/23 Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>

> Hello, I am new to this list.  Just purchased a 1959 austin healey 100-6
> which
> has a newly rebuilt engine, and underwent a full restoration in 1990.  I
> have
> some questions on things I found wrong on the car:
>
> 1.  The car runs better with choke half out, high idle.  I put the choke
> in,
> and it eventually stalls.  Tonight, it may have flooded, or vapor locked
> because I cannot get it restarted.  I will let it sit for a couple hours.
>  Is
> this a simple carb tune-up issue?
>
> 2.  The clutch makes a howling noise intermittently when fully engaged,
> and it
> is hard to shift into gear--this in intermittent.  It is almost like the
> hydraulic fluid may be low, so the clutch is not fully disengaging.  But
> why
> is it so intermittent?
>
> 3.  This newly rebuilt engine has only a few hundred miles on it--I have
> the
> build sheet from the specialty British shop that did the work.  But the car
> has some mild oil leaks.  The seller says this is normal bbutecause of the
> leather gaskets--I noticed the biggest leak is on the passenger side, where
> the distributor assembly bolts to the block.  Is it normal for all Healeys
> to
> leak some oil?
>
> The car is in great shape, but I don't feel comfortable driving it because
> of
> the worry it may quit or flood or vapor lock, or something.
>
> Looking forward to your opinions.
>
> Chris in Iowa.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 12:12:31 2013
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 11:09:47 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'll take a stab, but there are more accomplished mechanical types on the list.

Comments below.



On 6/22/2013 6:16 PM, Chris Scholz wrote:
> Hello, I am new to this list.  Just purchased a 1959 austin healey 100-6 which
> has a newly rebuilt engine, and underwent a full restoration in 1990.  I have
> some questions on things I found wrong on the car:
>
> 1.  The car runs better with choke half out, high idle.  I put the choke in,
> and it eventually stalls.  Tonight, it may have flooded, or vapor locked
> because I cannot get it restarted.  I will let it sit for a couple hours.  Is
> this a simple carb tune-up issue?

The first half of the choke travel should only open the throttles, the second half should lower the jets inducing a 
richer mixture. Sounds like your throttles are not set properly.
>
> 2.  The clutch makes a howling noise intermittently when fully engaged, and it
> is hard to shift into gear--this in intermittent.  It is almost like the
> hydraulic fluid may be low, so the clutch is not fully disengaging.  But why
> is it so intermittent?

Could be hydraulic fluid level, air in the line, etc.  Sometimes, things are intermittent even thought they logically 
seem like they shouldn't be.  Also, the throwout 'bearing' is a carbon disk, if it wasn't replaced at engine rebuild--it 
should have been--you may be getting metal-to-metal contact between the 'bearing' housing and the clutch actuating disk.
>
> 3.  This newly rebuilt engine has only a few hundred miles on it--I have the
> build sheet from the specialty British shop that did the work.  But the car
> has some mild oil leaks.  The seller says this is normal bbutecause of the
> leather gaskets--I noticed the biggest leak is on the passenger side, where
> the distributor assembly bolts to the block.  Is it normal for all Healeys to
> leak some oil?

I don't know of any 'leather' gaskets on a Healey engine.  The front seal is a 'rope' type, the rear main has a 'reverse 
Archimedes' scroll that is supposed to channel oil back into the engine (if sort-of works).   If your rebuilder told you 
there are leather gaskets I'd be questioning his knowledge and/or truthiness (but, there may, if fact, be leather 
gaskets somewhere but I can't recall one).
>
> The car is in great shape, but I don't feel comfortable driving it because of
> the worry it may quit or flood or vapor lock, or something.
>
> Looking forward to your opinions.
>
> Chris in Iowa.
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From: "Alan Garrison" <a2garrison@charter.net>
To: "'Austin Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1371864297.24069.YahooMailNeo@web121805.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 15:03:43 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Source for Sidescreen parts?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ron

When I rebuilt my sidescreens 15 years ago I used the following stem bumpers
from Steele Rubber Products (steelerubber.com):

#33-0507-62 for the sidescreen bumper

#33-0349-87 for the bracket bumper

You'll have to trim off the ends of the stem to make them fit. I attached
the sidescreen bumper with a #5 S.S. Phillips Truss Head sheetmetal screw.

I can't help on a source for the drip ledges.

Alan Garrison
BN6

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 9:25 PM
To: Austin Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Source for Sidescreen parts?

Hi,

I'm in the process of restoring the Sidescreens on my AH MkII 3000 BN7 and
have not been able to find a source for three parts.  The rubber bumpers on
the RH & LH rear mounting brackets. The rubber bumpers in the upper corner
of the Sidescreens and the aluminum drip ledges on the lower rear outside of
the Sidescreens.  For clarification I have post pictures of these components
at the following URL:
http://semahc.com/Austin%20Healey%20Side%20Screen%20Parts.htm

Any help on
finding a source for these parts will greatly appreciated
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 13:10:20 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <D6A64D75CE0E5D4B885C03FD707DB4A6B6369E@server.visioncenter.local>
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 13:08:16 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac5wPPKN22vB+HjeRp6A0AdxQb4aZwAB+xdQ
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That loud howl is likely the grease in/on the pilot bearing is dried up..
not easy fix...
dave

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/  nice pictures-fun facts-my world


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 12:10 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey

I'll take a stab, but there are more accomplished mechanical types on the
list.

Comments below.



On 6/22/2013 6:16 PM, Chris Scholz wrote:
> Hello, I am new to this list.  Just purchased a 1959 austin healey 100-6
which
> has a newly rebuilt engine, and underwent a full restoration in 1990.  I
have
> some questions on things I found wrong on the car:
>
> 1.  The car runs better with choke half out, high idle.  I put the choke
in,
> and it eventually stalls.  Tonight, it may have flooded, or vapor locked
> because I cannot get it restarted.  I will let it sit for a couple hours.
Is
> this a simple carb tune-up issue?

The first half of the choke travel should only open the throttles, the
second half should lower the jets inducing a 
richer mixture. Sounds like your throttles are not set properly.
>
> 2.  The clutch makes a howling noise intermittently when fully engaged,
and it
> is hard to shift into gear--this in intermittent.  It is almost like the
> hydraulic fluid may be low, so the clutch is not fully disengaging.  But
why
> is it so intermittent?

Could be hydraulic fluid level, air in the line, etc.  Sometimes, things are
intermittent even thought they logically 
seem like they shouldn't be.  Also, the throwout 'bearing' is a carbon disk,
if it wasn't replaced at engine rebuild--it 
should have been--you may be getting metal-to-metal contact between the
'bearing' housing and the clutch actuating disk.
>
> 3.  This newly rebuilt engine has only a few hundred miles on it--I have
the
> build sheet from the specialty British shop that did the work.  But the
car
> has some mild oil leaks.  The seller says this is normal bbutecause of the
> leather gaskets--I noticed the biggest leak is on the passenger side,
where
> the distributor assembly bolts to the block.  Is it normal for all Healeys
to
> leak some oil?

I don't know of any 'leather' gaskets on a Healey engine.  The front seal is
a 'rope' type, the rear main has a 'reverse 
Archimedes' scroll that is supposed to channel oil back into the engine (if
sort-of works).   If your rebuilder told you 
there are leather gaskets I'd be questioning his knowledge and/or truthiness
(but, there may, if fact, be leather 
gaskets somewhere but I can't recall one).
>
> The car is in great shape, but I don't feel comfortable driving it because
of
> the worry it may quit or flood or vapor lock, or something.
>
> Looking forward to your opinions.
>
> Chris in Iowa.
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 14:13:16 2013
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 13:10:48 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5wTcC5JBoLoIpWSxWEAxRQy2Yfdw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris,

To the mechanic suggestion, would add - join the local Austin Healey Club,
see

https://healeyclub.org/clubs/

They can also point you to favorite mechanics.

--

Steve Gerow
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 15:12:39 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] 1966 BJ8 REAR leaf springs
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

Has anyone recently bought rear leaf springs from Moss? are they quality..............or junk??   Who sells the best?

thanks
Mitch
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <D6A64D75CE0E5D4B885C03FD707DB4A6B6369E@server.visioncenter.local>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 18:43:34 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Chris, welcome to the Healey fraternity.
I have a lot of experience on Healeys, as a professional so will try to
answer as best I can.

*1.  The car runs better with choke half out, high idle.  I put the choke
in,
and it eventually stalls.  Tonight, it may have flooded, or vapor locked
because I cannot get it restarted.  I will let it sit for a couple hours.
 Is
this a simple carb tune-up issue?*
This sounds like carb set up to me however before you start on them check
the ignition timing, if it is wrong you will never get it to run correctly.
The ignition timing should be about 5/8" BTDC static on the timing marks on
the front pulley.
As for setting up the carbs I would strongly recommend that you do some
reading. I would recommend this site
http://www.triumphclub.co.nz/?page_id=26

*2.  The clutch makes a howling noise intermittently when fully engaged,
and it
is hard to shift into gear--this in intermittent.  It is almost like the
hydraulic fluid may be low, so the clutch is not fully disengaging.  But why
is it so intermittent?*
I need a better description. By "engaged" do you mean pedal depressed
(clutch disengaged) or pedal released (clutch engaged). If the clutch makes
a noise when the pedal is depressed there are a few possibilities. The
carbon clutch release bearing may be worn down but that would usually make
a noise as soon as you started to press the clutch pedal. An over sized
master cylinder may have been fitted causing the clutch to "overstroke",
but I think the most likely cause is that the pilot bush in the end of the
crankshaft is dry and seizing or chattering. To fix that the gearbox and
clutch have to come out.

*3.  This newly rebuilt engine has only a few hundred miles on it--I have
the
build sheet from the specialty British shop that did the work.  But the car
has some mild oil leaks.  The seller says this is normal bbutecause of the
leather gaskets--I noticed the biggest leak is on the passenger side, where
the distributor assembly bolts to the block.  Is it normal for all Healeys
to
leak some oil?
*
The only leather gasket that I know of on a Healey is on the gauge end of
the oil pressure line. Some minor oil leakage (a couple of drops after a
run) would be considered normal. There should be a paper gasket between the
distributor pedestal and the block. Oil leaks there are easily fixed. There
is an oil feed pipe to the pedestal from the main oil gallery and the banjo
fittings on either end use fiber washers either side of the banjo. If those
washers are damaged or missing or either of the banjo bolts is stripped
there will be a significant leak around them.*

*
Hope that helps,
Michael S


On Sat, Jun 22, 2013 at 9:16 PM, Chris Scholz
<drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>wrote:

> Hello, I am new to this list.  Just purchased a 1959 austin healey 100-6
> which
> has a newly rebuilt engine, and underwent a full restoration in 1990.  I
> have
> some questions on things I found wrong on the car:
>
> 1.  The car runs better with choke half out, high idle.  I put the choke
> in,
> and it eventually stalls.  Tonight, it may have flooded, or vapor locked
> because I cannot get it restarted.  I will let it sit for a couple hours.
>  Is
> this a simple carb tune-up issue?
>
> 2.  The clutch makes a howling noise intermittently when fully engaged,
> and it
> is hard to shift into gear--this in intermittent.  It is almost like the
> hydraulic fluid may be low, so the clutch is not fully disengaging.  But
> why
> is it so intermittent?
>
> 3.  This newly rebuilt engine has only a few hundred miles on it--I have
> the
> build sheet from the specialty British shop that did the work.  But the car
> has some mild oil leaks.  The seller says this is normal bbutecause of the
> leather gaskets--I noticed the biggest leak is on the passenger side, where
> the distributor assembly bolts to the block.  Is it normal for all Healeys
> to
> leak some oil?
>
> The car is in great shape, but I don't feel comfortable driving it because
> of
> the worry it may quit or flood or vapor lock, or something.
>
> Looking forward to your opinions.
>
> Chris in Iowa.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 17:07:15 2013
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 16:04:59 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You'll need to check for vacuum leaks or adjust carbs or both.
They all leak a bit. Keeps them from getting rustythe only leather gasket
is between oil se Der and hard line.
Join a local Healey or British car club and get advice on a good mechanic.
Many folks are traveling to Healey meets and the list should be slow.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Jun 23, 2013 11:09 AM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> I'll take a stab, but there are more accomplished mechanical types on the
> list.
>
> Comments below.
>
>
>
> On 6/22/2013 6:16 PM, Chris Scholz wrote:
>
>> Hello, I am new to this list.  Just purchased a 1959 austin healey 100-6
>> which
>> has a newly rebuilt engine, and underwent a full restoration in 1990.  I
>> have
>> some questions on things I found wrong on the car:
>>
>> 1.  The car runs better with choke half out, high idle.  I put the choke
>> in,
>> and it eventually stalls.  Tonight, it may have flooded, or vapor locked
>> because I cannot get it restarted.  I will let it sit for a couple hours.
>>  Is
>> this a simple carb tune-up issue?
>>
>
> The first half of the choke travel should only open the throttles, the
> second half should lower the jets inducing a richer mixture. Sounds like
> your throttles are not set properly.
>
>>
>> 2.  The clutch makes a howling noise intermittently when fully engaged,
>> and it
>> is hard to shift into gear--this in intermittent.  It is almost like the
>> hydraulic fluid may be low, so the clutch is not fully disengaging.  But
>> why
>> is it so intermittent?
>>
>
> Could be hydraulic fluid level, air in the line, etc.  Sometimes, things
> are intermittent even thought they logically seem like they shouldn't be.
>  Also, the throwout 'bearing' is a carbon disk, if it wasn't replaced at
> engine rebuild--it should have been--you may be getting metal-to-metal
> contact between the 'bearing' housing and the clutch actuating disk.
>
>>
>> 3.  This newly rebuilt engine has only a few hundred miles on it--I have
>> the
>> build sheet from the specialty British shop that did the work.  But the
>> car
>> has some mild oil leaks.  The seller says this is normal bbutecause of the
>> leather gaskets--I noticed the biggest leak is on the passenger side,
>> where
>> the distributor assembly bolts to the block.  Is it normal for all
>> Healeys to
>> leak some oil?
>>
>
> I don't know of any 'leather' gaskets on a Healey engine.  The front seal
> is a 'rope' type, the rear main has a 'reverse Archimedes' scroll that is
> supposed to channel oil back into the engine (if sort-of works).   If your
> rebuilder told you there are leather gaskets I'd be questioning his
> knowledge and/or truthiness (but, there may, if fact, be leather gaskets
> somewhere but I can't recall one).
>
>>
>> The car is in great shape, but I don't feel comfortable driving it
>> because of
>> the worry it may quit or flood or vapor lock, or something.
>>
>> Looking forward to your opinions.
>>
>> Chris in Iowa.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> ***********************************************************************
> ______________________________**_________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 17:07:51 2013
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 16:04:59 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  1959 100-6 Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: eyera3@gmail.com
Date: Jun 23, 2013 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>

You'll need to check for vacuum leaks or adjust carbs or both.
They all leak a bit. Keeps them from getting rustythe only leather gasket
is between oil se Der and hard line.
Join a local Healey or British car club and get advice on a good mechanic.
Many folks are traveling to Healey meets and the list should be slow.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Jun 23, 2013 11:09 AM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

I'll take a stab, but there are more accomplished mechanical types on the
list.

Comments below.




On 6/22/2013 6:16 PM, Chris Scholz wrote:

> Hello, I am new to this list.  Just purchased a 1959 austin healey 100-6
> which
> has a newly rebuilt engine, and underwent a full restoration in 1990.  I
> have
> some questions on things I found wrong on the car:
>
> 1.  The car runs better with choke half out, high idle.  I put the choke
> in,
> and it eventually stalls.  Tonight, it may have flooded, or vapor locked
> because I cannot get it restarted.  I will let it sit for a couple hours.
>  Is
> this a simple carb tune-up issue?
>

The first half of the choke travel should only open the throttles, the
second half should lower the jets inducing a richer mixture. Sounds like
your throttles are not set properly.


> 2.  The clutch makes a howling noise intermittently when fully engaged,
> and it
> is hard to shift into gear--this in intermittent.  It is almost like the
> hydraulic fluid may be low, so the clutch is not fully disengaging.  But
> why
> is it so intermittent?
>

Could be hydraulic fluid level, air in the line, etc.  Sometimes, things
are intermittent even thought they logically seem like they shouldn't be.
 Also, the throwout 'bearing' is a carbon disk, if it wasn't replaced at
engine rebuild--it should have been--you may be getting metal-to-metal
contact between the 'bearing' housing and the clutch actuating disk.


> 3.  This newly rebuilt engine has only a few hundred miles on it--I have
> the
> build sheet from the specialty British shop that did the work.  But the car
> has some mild oil leaks.  The seller says this is normal bbutecause of the
> leather gaskets--I noticed the biggest leak is on the passenger side, where
> the distributor assembly bolts to the block.  Is it normal for all Healeys
> to
> leak some oil?
>

I don't know of any 'leather' gaskets on a Healey engine.  The front seal
is a 'rope' type, the rear main has a 'reverse Archimedes' scroll that is
supposed to channel oil back into the engine (if sort-of works).   If your
rebuilder told you there are leather gaskets I'd be questioning his
knowledge and/or truthiness (but, there may, if fact, be leather gaskets
somewhere but I can't recall one).


> The car is in great shape, but I don't feel comfortable driving it because
> of
> the worry it may quit or flood or vapor lock, or something.
>
> Looking forward to your opinions.
>
> Chris in Iowa.
>
>
>
>

-- 
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

***********************************************************************

______________________________**_________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 19:00:37 2013
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 17:58:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris,

One novice to another ...

Get copies of the
   Mechanical Service Parts List, and
   BMC Workshop Manual,

Both are easily available.

I also suggest you contact British Car Specialists (David is on the list) and
get a copy of
   Norm Nock's Tech Talk.
It has a great section on tune ups.

Greg

--- On Sat, 6/22/13, Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com> wrote:

> From: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
> Subject: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 Healey
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, June 22, 2013, 9:16 PM
> Hello, I am new to this list. 
> Just purchased a 1959 austin healey 100-6 which
> has a newly rebuilt engine, and underwent a full restoration
> in 1990.  I have
> some questions on things I found wrong on the car:
>
> 1.  The car runs better with choke half out, high
> idle.  I put the choke in,
> and it eventually stalls.  Tonight, it may have
> flooded, or vapor locked
> because I cannot get it restarted.  I will let it sit
> for a couple hours.  Is
> this a simple carb tune-up issue?
>
> 2.  The clutch makes a howling noise intermittently
> when fully engaged, and it
> is hard to shift into gear--this in intermittent.  It
> is almost like the
> hydraulic fluid may be low, so the clutch is not fully
> disengaging.  But why
> is it so intermittent?
>
> 3.  This newly rebuilt engine has only a few hundred
> miles on it--I have the
> build sheet from the specialty British shop that did the
> work.  But the car
> has some mild oil leaks.  The seller says this is
> normal bbutecause of the
> leather gaskets--I noticed the biggest leak is on the
> passenger side, where
> the distributor assembly bolts to the block.  Is it
> normal for all Healeys to
> leak some oil?
>
> The car is in great shape, but I don't feel comfortable
> driving it because of
> the worry it may quit or flood or vapor lock, or something.
>
> Looking forward to your opinions.
>
> Chris in Iowa.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 19:53:30 2013
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	<healeys@autox.team.net>; Mon, 24 Jun 2013 11:51:10 +1000
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 11:51:09 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac5wfSKqBCIJ+OIATqCsfuqn8Ear8g==
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

Enjoy the music and the 100.



 <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o


		

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 20:04:20 2013
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References: <007601ce707d$4d85a470$e890ed50$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 22:02:02 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ravel would have been delighted :-)


On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 9:51 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> Enjoy the music and the 100.
>
>
>
>  <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
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Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 20:07:18 2013
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	Mon, 24 Jun 2013 12:05:10 +1000
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
References: <007601ce707d$4d85a470$e890ed50$@tpg.com.au>
	<CAB3i7LKJ4Jbt8CSDAMHLmXC8b=z=6oHOZxtKS1zW4Aohro8Hwg@mail.gmail.com>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100
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Yes I know I spelt Ravel wrong. Just testing!

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick

Cold Blue Mountains, Australia

 

 

From: michael.salter@gmail.com [mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com] On Behalf
Of Michael Salter
Sent: Monday, 24 June 2013 12:02 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100

 

Ravel would have been delighted :-)

 

On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 9:51 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn
<p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

G'day



Enjoy the music and the 100.



 <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o






Hoo Roo



Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com




-- 

Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 20:17:16 2013
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 19:15:24 -0700
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Subject: [Healeys] Fw:  Revel's Bolero and a 100
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Who wouldn't be delighted to ride in a Healey!


Mike
BN2


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100


> Ravel would have been delighted :-)
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 9:51 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
> p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
>> G'day
>>
>>
>>
>> Enjoy the music and the 100.
>>
>>
>>
>>  <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hoo Roo
>>
>>
>>
>> Patrick Quinn
>>
>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Michael Salter
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722@comcast.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 21:47:09 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 13:43:10 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac5wjNXHMvGMvQ6sQ9OwG7rUm+anlA==
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Subject: [Healeys] 2013 24 Hours of Le Mans Historic Legends
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

If you have an hour to spare you might like to look at this:

 

2013 24 Hours of Le Mans Historic Legends

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sGi9SuTXrk

 

Three Austin-Healeys (DD 300 and two 100Ss) running amongst other lovely
machines.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 01:46:38 2013
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References: <004a01ce6fc6$6dcfb660$496f2320$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 08:44:12 +0100
From: John Harper <ah100register@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, greylinn@ozemail.com.au
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Metallic Green Suspension
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Dear Patrick and Peter

I believe that we might be considering two different issues here. The BN1
stub axles, lower links etc. are the same as the A40 Somerset that Peter
mentioned but also the A70 Hereford, A90 Atlantic and others. Austin tended
to colour code some items that were similar but not quite the same such as
coil springs so as not to get them fitted to the wrong cars.

However the later versions of stub axles as fitted to BN2 and presumably
Patrick's car and later models were heavier and such things as the lower
links were handed and cranked. These started life on the A90 Westminster
and were in my view BMC parts not Austin.

Assuming that Patrick's suspension is the later heavier, BN2 on version,
then I have not heard of this colour coding continuing but who knows what
might have happened with a 'special'.

Sorry that I could not help more

Best regards




On 23 June 2013 05:02, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> This morning I started to strip the black paint from the front wheel/brake
> backing plates of the BN3 and was reminded of when I last did it in the
> late
> 1970s.
>
>
>
> Back then I found that the plates had been originally painted metallic
> green, along with rest of the suspension and steering arms.
>
>
>
> That some of the metallic green paint is still on one of the backing plates
> shows how diligent I was thirty plus years ago.
>
>
>
> Perhaps someone on the list (like a John Harper) has come across metallic
> green suspension components before and can tell me where the suspension
> comes from? I've always known that there is something slightly different
> with the car's suspension and brakes.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 03:54:08 2013
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References: <007601ce707d$4d85a470$e890ed50$@tpg.com.au>
From: Richard Korn <cynicbass@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 09:51:17 +0000
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

No symphony orchestra should be without one! :)

Richard
BN2 blue over white
Iceland Symphony


Sent from my iPad

On Jun 24, 2013, at 1:51, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> Enjoy the music and the 100.
>
>
>
> <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 06:11:43 2013
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Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 08:08:47 -0400
From: Michael J Maloney <mikljmal@gmail.com>
To: caddi5@comcast.net
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1966 BJ8 REAR leaf springs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mitch;
I got rear leaf springs from Martin Jensen (Jule),Mar 2012, with my frame
and superstructure.
Have since done a few 50-100 mile trips as well 3 laps on the road track at
Callabogie Motorsport Park.
I am very satisfied with the performance of these springs.No commercial
interest!
Have no knowledge of Moss springs

Mike Maloney 66-HLY


On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 5:10 PM, <caddi5@comcast.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Has anyone recently bought rear leaf springs from Moss? are they
> quality..............or junk??   Who sells the best?
>
> thanks
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mikljmal@gmail.com
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From: Don <fsufan1952@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 09:28:11 -0400
To: "caddi5@comcast.net" <caddi5@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1966 BJ8 REAR leaf springs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I got my new rear leaf springs along with new front coils from Dennis
Welch,for my 67 BJ-8. The car sits just right and rides and handles great.
                                        Don

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 23, 2013, at 5:10 PM, caddi5@comcast.net wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Has anyone recently bought rear leaf springs from Moss? are they
quality..............or junk??   Who sells the best?
>
> thanks
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 07:48:22 2013
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Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 9:46:08 -0400
From: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1966 BJ8 REAR leaf springs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mitch, I can't speak for the quality of Moss's springs now, but when I was in the market for springs in 2010 I avoided the Moss springs due to reports on the list that they began to sag soon after installation.  Perhaps Moss has fixed that problem by now.
I chose to buy my springs from Bob Yule at Autofarm (http://www.autofarm.net).  Those springs came from A-Head 4 Healeys in the UK.  I have 9,000 miles on them now and they are just fine.  Due to the exchange rate at the time and shipping cost, they turned out to be a bit expensive, but I'm happy with them.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
---- caddi5@comcast.net wrote: 
> Hello,
> 
> Has anyone recently bought rear leaf springs from Moss? are they quality..............or junk??   Who sells the best?
> 
> thanks
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers@ec.rr.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 08:11:04 2013
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From: "Alex" <alexmm@roadrunner.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <007601ce707d$4d85a470$e890ed50$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 10:08:38 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you, Patrick! What a most enjoyable celebration!

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 9:51 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100


> G'day
>
>
>
> Enjoy the music and the 100.
>
>
>
> <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alexmm@roadrunner.com
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.3345 / Virus Database: 3199/6430 - Release Date: 06/21/13
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 10:04:01 2013
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Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 09:00:57 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] PM '100 Most Attractive'
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#45 & #78

Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 10:31:46 2013
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	<20130624134608.L35MC.56594.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 09:27:16 -0700
From: "m.fawcett" <m.fawcett@verizon.net>
To: caddi5@comcast.net
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1966 BJ8 REAR leaf springs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I put Moss leaf springs on in 2003 and haven't had a problem.

Mark Fawcett


On Mon, Jun 24, 2013 at 6:46 AM, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Mitch, I can't speak for the quality of Moss's springs now, but when I was
> in the market for springs in 2010 I avoided the Moss springs due to reports
> on the list that they began to sag soon after installation.  Perhaps Moss
> has fixed that problem by now.
> I chose to buy my springs from Bob Yule at Autofarm (
> http://www.autofarm.net).  Those springs came from A-Head 4 Healeys in
> the UK.  I have 9,000 miles on them now and they are just fine.  Due to the
> exchange rate at the time and shipping cost, they turned out to be a bit
> expensive, but I'm happy with them.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC  USA
> ---- caddi5@comcast.net wrote:
> > Hello,
> >
> > Has anyone recently bought rear leaf springs from Moss? are they
> quality..............or junk??   Who sells the best?
> >
> > thanks
> > Mitch
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers@ec.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.fawcett@verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 04:12:02 2013
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Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 12:09:16 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130621161455.01ffb6c8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door plugs - BT7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Never plug holes in door bottoms ot in any bottom for that matter. They 
are there for drainage, ventilation and passage of other matter.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 22-6-2013 1:17, john spaur schreef:
> On one door, on the bottom, there are three 3/4" round holes. On the 
> other door, which was a replacement at some time, there is one hole.
>
> Should these holes receive a rubber plug similar to some on the fire 
> wall?
>
> They are not shown in the parts book but I have a small bag of door 
> parts and there is one such plug in the bag.
>
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6425 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 06/19/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 05:09:08 2013
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	Tue, 25 Jun 2013 21:06:47 +1000
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Oudesluys'" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130621161455.01ffb6c8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<51C96C4C.2010601@chello.nl>
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 21:06:46 +1000
Thread-Index: AQJAX8u6iQIvmrzTn7/DTt28ipDAWgIgVJBCmFFlROA=
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door plugs - BT7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

I am sorely tempted to say something highly risqui or even rude in response,
but as this is a family list I have decided not to.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 8:09 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door plugs - BT7

Never plug holes in door bottoms ot in any bottom for that matter. They are
there for drainage, ventilation and passage of other matter.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 22-6-2013 1:17, john spaur schreef:
> On one door, on the bottom, there are three 3/4" round holes. On the
> other door, which was a replacement at some time, there is one hole.
>
> Should these holes receive a rubber plug similar to some on the fire
> wall?
>
> They are not shown in the parts book but I have a small bag of door
> parts and there is one such plug in the bag.
>
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 15:30:41 2013
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Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 12:22:17 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I tried to install the Goodridge brake lines and ran into a problem. 
I have stainless steel main lines and it is recommended to use a 
copper crush washer wherever the stainless steel flare meets with 
another brake line fitting. Because the Goodridge line meets with a 
stainless steel flare at each end a copper crush washer is needed.

The problem is the Goodridge fitting at each end of the line is not 
machined the same as the original rubber line fitting. The Goodridge 
fitting is about 1/16" longer, from the end of the threaded portion, 
to the end of the fitting. This only allows for the engagement of 
about two threads making the fitting unsafe in my opinion.

I sent a letter to Goodridge with a copy to Moss Motors informing 
them of the issue.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 19:14:34 2013
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References: <007601ce707d$4d85a470$e890ed50$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 21:12:06 -0400
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Patrick,

That was great; thanks for sending it to the list.

Do you know what the car before the 100 was?

- tom

On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 9:51 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> Enjoy the music and the 100.
>
>
>
>  <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 19:39:22 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Tom'" <ah3000me@gmail.com>
References: <007601ce707d$4d85a470$e890ed50$@tpg.com.au>
	<CANQM1P+vGpw-RWVpssB64O-WQ3Ra5-xkw2u+g-E7WFbLk53oBA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 11:36:54 +1000
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Tom

 

I am pretty sure it was a Citroen DS23 EFI Pallas. I drove one a few years
back for an article I was writing and it would have to be the most
comfortable car I have ever been in. It was just amazing how no road
undulations were felt at all.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

 

From: tfwilliams@gmail.com [mailto:tfwilliams@gmail.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Sent: Wednesday, 26 June 2013 11:12 AM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100

 

Patrick,

That was great; thanks for sending it to the list.

Do you know what the car before the 100 was?

- tom

On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 9:51 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn
<p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

G'day



Enjoy the music and the 100.



 <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o






Hoo Roo



Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 00:27:51 2013
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From: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Date: 26 Jun 2013 08:24:19 +0200
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door plugs - BT7
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Patrick,

that's really a good one. Had a good laugh in the morning. You've made my day! Thanks

Eric
Heinsberg, Germany


G'day

I am sorely tempted to say something highly risqui or even rude in response,
but as this is a family list I have decided not to.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia


Never plug holes in door bottoms ot in any bottom for that matter. They are
there for drainage, ventilation and passage of other matter.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 05:27:10 2013
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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 13:24:27 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130621161455.01ffb6c8@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<51C96C4C.2010601@chello.nl>
	<01af01ce7194$16602020$43206060$@tpg.com.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door plugs - BT7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Come on, don't be shy.
Kees

Op 25-6-2013 13:06, Patrick & Caroline Quinn schreef:
> G'day
>
> I am sorely tempted to say something highly risqui or even rude in response,
> but as this is a family list I have decided not to.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Oudesluys
> Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 8:09 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door plugs - BT7
>
> Never plug holes in door bottoms ot in any bottom for that matter. They are
> there for drainage, ventilation and passage of other matter.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Op 22-6-2013 1:17, john spaur schreef:
>> On one door, on the bottom, there are three 3/4" round holes. On the
>> other door, which was a replacement at some time, there is one hole.
>>
>> Should these holes receive a rubber plug similar to some on the fire
>> wall?
>>
>> They are not shown in the parts book but I have a small bag of door
>> parts and there is one such plug in the bag.
>>
>> John Spaur
>> '62 BT7
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3199/6438 - datum van uitgifte: 06/24/13
>
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 07:46:17 2013
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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 09:43:33 -0400
From: ggilliam@usol.com
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/0.8.1
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Distant Cousin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Appeared today on Barnfinds:

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Barn Finds Daily Review
Date: 6/26/2013 5:04 AM
 From: "BarnFinds.com" <mail@barnfinds.com>
To: ggilliam@usol.com



DAILY REVIEW

  [1]

PINT SIZE BARN FIND: 1931 AMERICAN AUSTIN ROADSTER [2]

  [2]

This tiny 1931 American Austin Roadster has been in a barn for the past 
50 years or so and needs to go to a new home. The American Austin Car 
Company built these under license from Austin in Britain in the early 
1930b2s, but the Great Depression forced the company to go into 
bankruptcy. Before closing its doors, the company managed to build about 
20k cars, but only a small handful were roadsters. The seller claims 
there are only 64 left and this one can be found here on eBay [3].

The post Pint Size Barn Find: 1931 American Austin Roadster [2] 
appeared first on Barn Finds [4].
MAILSCANNER HAS DETECTED A POSSIBLE FRAUD ATTEMPT FROM 
"WWW.BARNFINDS.COM" CLAIMING TO BE Read more at barnfinds.com B; [2]
Click here to subscribe [5] or change frequency of updates.

  1448 O'Dell Court, Sheridan, WY 82801, USA

  Unsubscribe [6] | Change Subscriber Options [6]



Links:
------
[1] 
http://www.barnfinds.com/#utm_source=rss&amp;utm_medium=rss&amp;utm_campaign=home
[2] 
http://www.barnfinds.com/pint-size-barn-find-1931-american-austin-roadster/
[3] http://www.barnfinds.com/ebay.php?id=261235905997
[4] http://www.barnfinds.com
[5] http://www.barnfinds.com/subscribe/
[6] http://www.aweber.com/z/r/?TIysrBxM7LSsjCxsrOxMzLRGtIycTAwMHOws
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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 09:05:34 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Distant Cousin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 6/26/2013 8:43 AM, ggilliam@usol.com wrote:
> Appeared today on Barnfinds:  >>


KEWL ! ! !

Tnx ! !
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	bits=128 verify=NO); Wed, 26 Jun 2013 20:15:18 +0200
From: "T+ B Willig" <willig@wtnet.de>
To: "'Tom'" <ah3000me@gmail.com>, "'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'"
	<p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
References: <007601ce707d$4d85a470$e890ed50$@tpg.com.au>
	<CANQM1P+vGpw-RWVpssB64O-WQ3Ra5-xkw2u+g-E7WFbLk53oBA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 20:15:16 +0200
Thread-Index: Ac5yCixfHsJkscXrQ5mxWVjYuS1bhAAjpDRw
Content-Language: de
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom,

it's a coachbuild Citroen DS convertible by Ateliers Henri Chapron

Kind regards


Thomas Willig

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tom [mailto:ah3000me@gmail.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 26. Juni 2013 03:12
An: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Revel's Bolero and a 100

Patrick,

That was great; thanks for sending it to the list.

Do you know what the car before the 100 was?

- tom

On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 9:51 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> Enjoy the music and the 100.
>
>
>
>  <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn7CYzPMf2o
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 15:36:30 2013
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 13:33:51 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Goodridge_Brake_Lines_-_Warning?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John,
Did you get the Goodridge lines from Moss?

Hard to believe they wouldn't have the correct ends.
-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6-29D w disc brakes & Moss Cobalt SS hoses
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 15:42:41 2013
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	with SMTP; 26 Jun 2013 21:37:15 +0000 UTC
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 14:37:08 -0700
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20130626213351.26905.qmail@hoster902.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The lines came from Moss.

I want to reiterate the lines fit unless you have stainless steel 
main lines with copper crush washers.

John

At 01:33 PM 6/26/2013 -0800, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
>John,
>Did you get the Goodridge lines from Moss?
>
>Hard to believe they wouldn't have the correct ends.
>--
>Steve Gerow
>Altadena, CA
>BN6-29D w disc brakes & Moss Cobalt SS hoses
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 15:46:30 2013
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?B?am9obiBzcGF1cg==?= <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 13:44:09 -0800
References: <20130626213351.26905.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20130626143541.02082238@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Cc: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Goodridge_Brake_Lines_-_Warning?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

These people have a world of adapters:
http://www.anplumbing.com/

I bought this one there to extend my rear hose by a little:
http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/149084084


-- 
Steve Gerow


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>  To: Steve B. Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
>  Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
>  Sent: Jun 26 '13 13:37
>  
>  The lines came from Moss.
>  
>  I want to reiterate the lines fit unless you have stainless steel
>  main lines with copper crush washers.
>  
>  John
>  
>  At 01:33 PM 6/26/2013 -0800, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
>  >John,
>  >Did you get the Goodridge lines from Moss?
>  >
>  >Hard to believe they wouldn't have the correct ends.
>  >--
>  >Steve Gerow
>  >Altadena, CA
>  >BN6-29D w disc brakes & Moss Cobalt SS hoses
>  >_______________________________________________
>  >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  >Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>  >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>  >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  >
>  >Healeys@autox.team.net
>  >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>  >
>  >Unsubscribe/Manage:
>  >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 15:53:43 2013
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?B?am9obiBzcGF1cg==?= <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 13:51:17 -0800
References: <20130626213351.26905.qmail@hoster902.com>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20130626143541.02082238@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Cc: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Goodridge_Brake_Lines_-_Warning?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John,
If you need any extra help, you could send me a photo of what you're talking about. I spent a great deal of time studying this stuff when I was working on my Toyota 4-piston brake conversion.

PS - what kind of flares are on the SS main lines?

-- 
Steve Gerow



>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>  To: Steve B. Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
>  Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
>  Sent: Jun 26 '13 13:37
>  
>  The lines came from Moss.
>  
>  I want to reiterate the lines fit unless you have stainless steel
>  main lines with copper crush washers.
>  
>  John
>  
>  At 01:33 PM 6/26/2013 -0800, Steve B. Gerow wrote:
>  >John,
>  >Did you get the Goodridge lines from Moss?
>  >
>  >Hard to believe they wouldn't have the correct ends.
>  >--
>  >Steve Gerow
>  >Altadena, CA
>  >BN6-29D w disc brakes & Moss Cobalt SS hoses
>  >_______________________________________________
>  >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  >Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>  >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>  >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  >
>  >Healeys@autox.team.net
>  >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>  >
>  >Unsubscribe/Manage:
>  >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 17:01:11 2013
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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 22:55:38 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
	s=q20121106; t=1372287338;
	bh=6XabCfL8a4FGqYbsP6K1fHUg/6eWHNJDzryz2Kl33f4=;
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Am I the only one thinking you shouldn't need copper crush washers on brake lines (seems to me the flares should do the job)? If you're relying on the threads and crush washers to seal that don't seem right. 

bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----


The lines came from Moss. 

I want to reiterate the lines fit unless you have stainless steel 
main lines with copper crush washers. 

John 

At 01:33 PM 6/26/2013 -0800, Steve B. Gerow wrote: 
>John, 
>Did you get the Goodridge lines from Moss? 
> 
>Hard to believe they wouldn't have the correct ends. 
>-- 
>Steve Gerow 
>Altadena, CA 
>BN6-29D w disc brakes & Moss Cobalt SS hoses 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 16:30:50 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
	ville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130626143541.02082238@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<124798631.561804.1372287338030.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob - I have stainless steel main supply lines. Copper crush washers 
are recommended to prevent the harder stainless steel from galling 
the softer steel fittings. BTW, the treads don't seal the line they 
hold the flare against the seat to seal the line.

John

At 10:55 PM 6/26/2013 +0000, you wrote:
>Am I the only one thinking you shouldn't need copper crush washers 
>on brake lines (seems to me the flares should do the job)? If you're 
>relying on the threads and crush washers to seal that don't seem right.
>
>bob
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 19:20:58 2013
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From: "Kerry Gauvin" <kerrygl@shaw.ca>
To: "'john spaur'" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130625121212.02082150@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 18:18:26 -0700
Thread-Index: AQG+OfZSOLqkyKxCQoNBZ0LCBz65gJlpM5fQ
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a BT7 as well and have just received the same brake lines from
moss...will not take to get installed until i hear further about the issue
from your posts
Moss also sells a less expensive set ..has anyone had experience with them /

Kerry
1960 BT7
Victoria BC

-----Original Message-----
From: john spaur [mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: June-25-13 12:22 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning

I tried to install the Goodridge brake lines and ran into a problem. 
I have stainless steel main lines and it is recommended to use a copper
crush washer wherever the stainless steel flare meets with another brake
line fitting. Because the Goodridge line meets with a stainless steel flare
at each end a copper crush washer is needed.

The problem is the Goodridge fitting at each end of the line is not machined
the same as the original rubber line fitting. The Goodridge fitting is about
1/16" longer, from the end of the threaded portion, to the end of the
fitting. This only allows for the engagement of about two threads making the
fitting unsafe in my opinion.

I sent a letter to Goodridge with a copy to Moss Motors informing them of
the issue.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 20:03:03 2013
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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 19:00:04 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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	<124798631.561804.1372287338030.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The harder SS will gall the flats where the fittings meet, but won't gall the flares?  If the flares do indeed seal, why 
would minor galling of the flats or threads be a problem?

Bob

On 6/26/2013 4:30 PM, john spaur wrote:
> Bob - I have stainless steel main supply lines. Copper crush washers are recommended to prevent the harder stainless 
> steel from galling the softer steel fittings. BTW, the treads don't seal the line they hold the flare against the seat 
> to seal the line.
>
> John
>
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 23:55:11 2013
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	(jmsdarch@69.106.234.181 with login) by smtp101.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
	with SMTP; 26 Jun 2013 22:52:29 -0700 PDT
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 22:43:19 -0700
To: "Kerry Gauvin" <kerrygl@shaw.ca>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130625121212.02082150@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<002201ce72d4$39b6fd50$ad24f7f0$@shaw.ca>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It should only be an issue if you have stainless steel lines and the 
recommended crush washers installed.

John

At 06:18 PM 6/26/2013 -0700, Kerry Gauvin wrote:
>I have a BT7 as well and have just received the same brake lines from
>moss...will not take to get installed until i hear further about the issue
>from your posts
>Moss also sells a less expensive set ..has anyone had experience with them /
>
>Kerry
>1960 BT7
>Victoria BC
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: john spaur [mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net]
>Sent: June-25-13 12:22 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
>
>I tried to install the Goodridge brake lines and ran into a problem.
>I have stainless steel main lines and it is recommended to use a copper
>crush washer wherever the stainless steel flare meets with another brake
>line fitting. Because the Goodridge line meets with a stainless steel flare
>at each end a copper crush washer is needed.
>
>The problem is the Goodridge fitting at each end of the line is not machined
>the same as the original rubber line fitting. The Goodridge fitting is about
>1/16" longer, from the end of the threaded portion, to the end of the
>fitting. This only allows for the engagement of about two threads making the
>fitting unsafe in my opinion.
>
>I sent a letter to Goodridge with a copy to Moss Motors informing them of
>the issue.
>
>John Spaur
>'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 23:56:04 2013
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	with SMTP; 26 Jun 2013 22:52:30 -0700 PDT
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 22:52:16 -0700
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130626143541.02082238@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<124798631.561804.1372287338030.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20130626161918.020c5610@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<51CB9CA4.1080901@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This thread is all about the flare connections. It is not about the 
flats where copper washers are standard.

The pertinent question is "if the flares do indeed seal". I have 
found SS lines to be hard to seal. Conical copper crush washers seal 
well but are difficult to install. Galling of seats, such as in the 
front calipers, is not good. At the very least there could be leaks 
in subsequent repairs and at the worst... a brake failure.

John

At 07:00 PM 6/26/2013 -0700, you wrote:
>The harder SS will gall the flats where the fittings meet, but won't 
>gall the flares?  If the flares do indeed seal, why would minor 
>galling of the flats or threads be a problem?
>
>Bob
>
>On 6/26/2013 4:30 PM, john spaur wrote:
>>Bob - I have stainless steel main supply lines. Copper crush 
>>washers are recommended to prevent the harder stainless steel from 
>>galling the softer steel fittings. BTW, the treads don't seal the 
>>line they hold the flare against the seat to seal the line.
>>
>>John
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>--
>*******************************************************************
>Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
>*******************************************************************
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 27 02:48:01 2013
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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 10:44:41 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20130626143541.02082238@pop.att.yahoo.com>
	<124798631.561804.1372287338030.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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	<51CB9CA4.1080901@comcast.net>
	<6.2.3.4.2.20130626224543.0203fdb0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

At first glance stainless steel brake lines seem to be a good idea. 
However they are not. Technically they may be illegal in many countries 
as you cannot have a double ended flare. There may also be a problem 
with metal fatigue and last but not least, if you use copper washers to 
seal you may have electrolytic corrosion of either the stainless steel, 
or the zinc/cadmium on the steel parts. In most climates cadmium/zinc 
plated standard brake line are the best. In damp climates with salted 
roads consider Cunifer or another copper/nickel based pipe. However 
brake lines, whatever they are made from, need to be checked over every 
year, but we do that anyway, don4t we.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 27-6-2013 7:52, john spaur schreef:
> This thread is all about the flare connections. It is not about the 
> flats where copper washers are standard.
>
> The pertinent question is "if the flares do indeed seal". I have found 
> SS lines to be hard to seal. Conical copper crush washers seal well 
> but are difficult to install. Galling of seats, such as in the front 
> calipers, is not good. At the very least there could be leaks in 
> subsequent repairs and at the worst... a brake failure.
>
> John
>
> At 07:00 PM 6/26/2013 -0700, you wrote:
>> The harder SS will gall the flats where the fittings meet, but won't 
>> gall the flares?  If the flares do indeed seal, why would minor 
>> galling of the flats or threads be a problem?
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 6/26/2013 4:30 PM, john spaur wrote:
>>> Bob - I have stainless steel main supply lines. Copper crush washers 
>>> are recommended to prevent the harder stainless steel from galling 
>>> the softer steel fittings. BTW, the treads don't seal the line they 
>>> hold the flare against the seat to seal the line.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> *******************************************************************
>> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
>>
>> *******************************************************************
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3204/6442 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 06/26/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 05:35:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ralph Cap <rjcapo1@yahoo.com>
To: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] petronix
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

has anyone installed a petronix flamethrower dist and had their tach converted by nisionger ,is it really necessary to have the tach done since it is a costly option 
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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 05:41:49 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry, I was confused.  Guess the SS lines require a crush washer between flares.   Haven't done any brake lines in a 
while and forgot there's a copper washer.

Theoretically, you shouldn't need the copper washer--is it there for 'backup?'


Bob


On 6/26/2013 10:52 PM, john spaur wrote:
> This thread is all about the flare connections. It is not about the flats where copper washers are standard.
>
> The pertinent question is "if the flares do indeed seal". I have found SS lines to be hard to seal. Conical copper 
> crush washers seal well but are difficult to install. Galling of seats, such as in the front calipers, is not good. At 
> the very least there could be leaks in subsequent repairs and at the worst... a brake failure.
>
> John
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 27 06:59:21 2013
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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 14:56:00 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net >> 4 - Healeys" <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <51CC351F.6000402@justbrits.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: [..H..ealeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ed's private comments!!
Kees Oudesluijs



-------- Origineel bericht --------
Onderwerp: 	Re: [..H..ealeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
Datum: 	Thu, 27 Jun 2013 07:50:39 -0500
Van: 	" Just Brits " Shop <shop@justbrits.com>
Aan: 	Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>



<< On 6/27/2013 3:44 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> but we do that anyway, don4t we.
> Kees Oudesluijs  >>

Where did the ?????? go, Kees ???????

LOL and you ARE incorrect fore 90% (or better <F>) of the List <F> <G> <F>

Ed

Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3204/6444 - datum van uitgifte: 
06/26/13
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 27 07:32:19 2013
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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 09:29:33 -0400
From: Michael J Maloney <mikljmal@gmail.com>
To: Ralph Cap <rjcapo1@yahoo.com>
Cc: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ralph;
I have had my tach rebuilt and calibrated by nisonger, approx 6 weeks
turnaround. I am very pleased.
This conversion gives me the capability to use points or electronic
ignition.
When I went to petronix,originally, my tach response was between erratic
and zero.
This is not an ad,it is for info only.

Mike Maloney, 66 HLY



On Thu, Jun 27, 2013 at 8:35 AM, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1@yahoo.com> wrote:

> has anyone installed a petronix flamethrower dist and had their tach
> converted by nisionger ,is it really necessary to have the tach done since
> it is a costly option
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mikljmal@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 27 10:08:13 2013
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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 11:05:31 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: [..H..ealeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
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<< On 6/27/2013 7:56 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> Ed's private comments!!
> Kees Oudesluijs  >>

That IS rude;  even for a Dutchman, Kees.

Ed
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 27 11:17:32 2013
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From: CAWS52803@aol.com
Full-name: CAWS52803
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 13:11:19 -0400 (EDT)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Healeys] Healey on a magazine cover
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I just picked up a copy of the August Blue Ridge Country magazine.  The 
cover is a beautiful Healey Blue 100/Six or maybe and early 3000.
I have contacted the magazine for permission to use it in our Healey Marque 
Magazine, but here is their website which shows it too.
 
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
 
www Blue Ridge Country com
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 03:32:04 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Michael J Maloney <mikljmal@gmail.com>
Cc: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

l'd say only maybe 20% of the time the tach needs to be redone.  Usually it
should work with the pertronix... my BJ8 works with it just fine.


On Thu, Jun 27, 2013 at 9:29 PM, Michael J Maloney <mikljmal@gmail.com>wrote:

> Ralph;
> I have had my tach rebuilt and calibrated by nisonger, approx 6 weeks
> turnaround. I am very pleased.
> This conversion gives me the capability to use points or electronic
> ignition.
> When I went to petronix,originally, my tach response was between erratic
> and zero.
> This is not an ad,it is for info only.
>
> Mike Maloney, 66 HLY
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 27, 2013 at 8:35 AM, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > has anyone installed a petronix flamethrower dist and had their tach
> > converted by nisionger ,is it really necessary to have the tach done
> since
> > it is a costly option
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mikljmal@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 27 14:14:04 2013
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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 22:11:18 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1372336553.39633.YahooMailNeo@web125503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CAK8B1p3t=6oVW62DHz0DpZGsqRnELZA8FgjM9SBEE67NEukFHQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFBXTkJfbxvu8ng0T8UZmbBMW5rGjkfmEoT0d_rQehABV8Zz+g@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] petronix
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This is my experience as well. To me it is a total mystery why this
happens.
If you have a tacho with a loop at the back, doubling this loop may do
the trick. It is worth a try as it is a free of charge fix.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 27-6-2013 21:32, Alan Seigrist schreef:
> l'd say only maybe 20% of the time the tach needs to be redone.  Usually it
> should work with the pertronix... my BJ8 works with it just fine.
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 27, 2013 at 9:29 PM, Michael J Maloney <mikljmal@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Ralph;
>> I have had my tach rebuilt and calibrated by nisonger, approx 6 weeks
>> turnaround. I am very pleased.
>> This conversion gives me the capability to use points or electronic
>> ignition.
>> When I went to petronix,originally, my tach response was between erratic
>> and zero.
>> This is not an ad,it is for info only.
>>
>> Mike Maloney, 66 HLY
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 27, 2013 at 8:35 AM, Ralph Cap <rjcapo1@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>> has anyone installed a petronix flamethrower dist and had their tach
>>> converted by nisionger ,is it really necessary to have the tach done
>> since
>>> it is a costly option
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mikljmal@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3204/6445 - datum van uitgifte: 06/27/13
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 27 15:07:09 2013
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	<dwflagg@juno.com>); Thu, 27 Jun 2013 13:59:45 -0700 (PDT)
To: shop@justbrits.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 16:58:46 -0400
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: [..H..ealeys] Goodridge Brake Lines - Warning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm with Ed on this one. 
 
On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 11:05:31 -0500 "\" Just Brits \" Shop"
<shop@justbrits.com> writes:
> << On 6/27/2013 7:56 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> > Ed's private comments!!
> > Kees Oudesluijs  >>
> 
> That IS rude;  even for a Dutchman, Kees.
> 
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg@juno.com
> 
> 
 

____________________________________________________________
1 Odd spice that FIGHTS diabetes
Can this unusual &#34;super spice&#34; control your blood sugar and fight diabetes&#63
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/51cca7c1e281c27c15fbast02duc
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 01:50:51 2013
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From: Graham Wilkie <glwilkie1@bigpond.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 07:43:20 +0000
	FILETIME=[28F98D20:01CE73D3]
Subject: [Healeys] New Brake Calipers For Late BJ8 ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Listers,

I have not been on the Healeys Mailing List for a couple of years, due to
various reasons, and the Healey has sat idle.

I have decided to replace the clutch flex hose and the three brake flex hoses
(as well as attend to other items) before driving the car again. While
contemplating the two front brake hoses, it occurred to me that it would be
prudent to rebuild the two brake calipers while the front end is up on the
stands.

However I noticed that Moss Motors are offering new brake calipers for late
BJ8's (from 26705) for only $87.95 each, on sale.

If anyone has recently purchased a set of these, I would be most grateful if
you would share your thoughts and experiences with these new calipers?

(I have checked the archives and a similar question was raised back in 2009,
but it seems nobody back then had tried these out, as the performance or
quality was not addressed in the various responses).

Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
HBJ8L 32382.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 02:52:45 2013
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 16:52:01 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey - Dordogne, France
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All -

Was heading from the Dordogne to Toulouse to pick someone up from the
airport when I saw a dark green BT7 or possibly BN6 heading north on one of
the little French roads we all love.

Stab in the dark... anyone on the list?

Best,

Alan
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 05:40:15 2013
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From: "Dallas Congleton" <dcongleton@embarqmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 07:37:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Body Number Part for 100-6 and 3000
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If any one on the list has the car with the hood (Bonnet) and trunk lid that
has Jensen numbers U-694 stamped into the  prop brackets , you may be interest
in reclaiming the hood latch bracket, which has the number for the shroud.
It is for sale on eBay-

I have no financial interest, blah,blah.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Austin-Healey-100-6-3000-Hood-Latch-Bracket-/15107173
0253?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232c93aa4d&vxp=mtr
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 06:12:31 2013
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	Fri, 28 Jun 2013 07:06:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Graham Wilkie'" <glwilkie1@bigpond.com>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU177-W3E850DF2705A7538D4B0EE3760@phx.gbl>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 08:06:44 -0400
Thread-index: AQIqOsKtYUdf2a9N1ELt0qB6muAPepiTeZqQ
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Brake Calipers For Late BJ8 ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And while you are at it, it would be prudent to install a clutch bleeder
extension available from Doug Reid.
http://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca/technical/brakelines.html

Will save you a lot of work and profanity.


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Graham Wilkie
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 3:43 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] New Brake Calipers For Late BJ8 ?

Hi Listers,

I have not been on the Healeys Mailing List for a couple of years, due to
various reasons, and the Healey has sat idle.

I have decided to replace the clutch flex hose and the three brake flex
hoses (as well as attend to other items) before driving the car again. While
contemplating the two front brake hoses, it occurred to me that it would be
prudent to rebuild the two brake calipers while the front end is up on the
stands.

However I noticed that Moss Motors are offering new brake calipers for late
BJ8's (from 26705) for only $87.95 each, on sale.

If anyone has recently purchased a set of these, I would be most grateful if
you would share your thoughts and experiences with these new calipers?

(I have checked the archives and a similar question was raised back in 2009,
but it seems nobody back then had tried these out, as the performance or
quality was not addressed in the various responses).

Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
HBJ8L 32382.
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 09:00:52 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'Graham Wilkie'" <glwilkie1@bigpond.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU177-W3E850DF2705A7538D4B0EE3760@phx.gbl>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 07:52:08 -0700
Thread-Index: AQIqOsKtYUdf2a9N1ELt0qB6muAPepiTqGdw
Content-Language: en-us
	FILETIME=[247B12A0:01CE740F]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Brake Calipers For Late BJ8 ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought them and put them on my car, they were cheaper than rebuilding the
old ones.

They matched up fine and worked great.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Graham Wilkie
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 12:43 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] New Brake Calipers For Late BJ8 ?

Hi Listers,

I have not been on the Healeys Mailing List for a couple of years, due to
various reasons, and the Healey has sat idle.

I have decided to replace the clutch flex hose and the three brake flex
hoses (as well as attend to other items) before driving the car again. While
contemplating the two front brake hoses, it occurred to me that it would be
prudent to rebuild the two brake calipers while the front end is up on the
stands.

However I noticed that Moss Motors are offering new brake calipers for late
BJ8's (from 26705) for only $87.95 each, on sale.

If anyone has recently purchased a set of these, I would be most grateful if
you would share your thoughts and experiences with these new calipers?

(I have checked the archives and a similar question was raised back in 2009,
but it seems nobody back then had tried these out, as the performance or
quality was not addressed in the various responses).

Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
HBJ8L 32382.
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 20:45:11 2013
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 19:41:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Where to put my mirrors.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Team,

I have have what I believe are called Lucas style mirrors.

Like these:  http://www.victoriabritish.com/Features/T6/T6MR1.htm

They are mounted on the doors just aft of the wing vents.

They are useless. I get a good view of the rear tires and that's as high as they go.

I'd like to move them, but to where? I thought on the fenders out over the tires was cool but the body shop guy says they're not that functional out there and it visually screws up the lines of the fender which are an important design element of the BJ8.

Lastly, I am 6'0" tall.  I had to get the rearview mirror extension to raise it up enough to see out the back.

All that being said, where do I put the mirrors.

Greg
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 21:31:08 2013
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 11:29:07 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Greg Mandas <gmandas@yahoo.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Where to put my mirrors.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Buy the vent window clip ons, very nice....

On Saturday, June 29, 2013, Greg Mandas wrote:

> Team,
>
> I have have what I believe are called Lucas style mirrors.
>
> Like these:  http://www.victoriabritish.com/Features/T6/T6MR1.htm
>
> They are mounted on the doors just aft of the wing vents.
>
> They are useless. I get a good view of the rear tires and that's as high
> as they go.
>
> I'd like to move them, but to where? I thought on the fenders out over the
> tires was cool but the body shop guy says they're not that functional out
> there and it visually screws up the lines of the fender which are an
> important design element of the BJ8.
>
> Lastly, I am 6'0" tall.  I had to get the rearview mirror extension to
> raise it up enough to see out the back.
>
> All that being said, where do I put the mirrors.
>
> Greg
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 22:02:01 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 22:55:41 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Where to put my mirrors.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think mirrors on the fender look classy and period correct, if you use 
convex they give you a broad view of the road behind you, no blindpsot 
whatsoever,  and you don't have to move your eyes as far off the road as you 
do for door mirrors.  Yes the mirror is a little far away and things look 
small, but for me anyway I don't need to read the license plate, just see if 
there is a car in the lane I am contemplating changing too.

downside they get bumped when you work under the hood, and adjustment is 
trial and error without a buddy or significant other to help adjust them.

But opinions do differ on ideal location.

Greg Lemon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 22:31:40 2013
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 12:26:54 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Where to put my mirrors.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I actually have one-bolt talbot-style convex mirrors over the front wheel
wells.  I used to have Lucas mirrors there but they were a pain in the ass.
 The Talbots look more appropriate on a sports car anyway, are lower
profile, and they don't change position when bumped because a screw anchors
the mirror to the Talbot bullet.  Increasing the height of the dash mirror
does block the view of the passenger mirror, so I use a handy suction cup
mount mirror at the top edge of the windshield, gives a much better field of
view anyway.  These mirrors can be had in the OEM style rectangular shape.

On Saturday, June 29, 2013, Greg Lemon wrote:

> I think mirrors on the fender look classy and period correct, if you use
> convex they give you a broad view of the road behind you, no blindpsot
> whatsoever,  and you don't have to move your eyes as far off the road as
> you do for door mirrors.  Yes the mirror is a little far away and things
> look small, but for me anyway I don't need to read the license plate, just
> see if there is a car in the lane I am contemplating changing too.
>
> downside they get bumped when you work under the hood, and adjustment is
> trial and error without a buddy or significant other to help adjust them.
>
> But opinions do differ on ideal location.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 23:21:51 2013
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 22:20:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Work stand
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Every time I think the body of my BN2 is going to get painted, we find
something that needs to be fixed, welded or adjusted.  It is very close just
for the fact that the painter is tired of seeing it in his shop.  Now I have
the problem of what to do when it comes home.  It is just a body.  There is no
suspension in it yet.  What did some of you guys use during the restoration to
support the body while you worked on it before you installed the suspension? 
I would like to keep it lifted off the ground a few feet while I work on it
just to make it easier on my back.  When I was working on my Bugeye I built a
dolly from 2 X 6s that just fit under the car inside the wheel wells.  It had
caster wheels to move it around the garage and I am considering building
another one for the BN2.  It worked for the Bugeye because of the unibody
construction.  I'm not so sure how this will work for the BN2.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5
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From: Graham Wilkie <glwilkie1@bigpond.com>
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 06:54:51 +0000
References: <BLU177-W3E850DF2705A7538D4B0EE3760@phx.gbl>,
	<000c01ce73f7$f5b85de0$e12919a0$@verizon.net>
	FILETIME=[8D7139C0:01CE7495]
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Brake Calipers For Late BJ8 ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John,

Thank you; that is sound advice. However, the work and profanities are behind
me now, as I have already replaced the clutch slave cylinder, and flex hose,
and bled the system.

Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
HBJ8 32382


> From: ahbn6@verizon.net
> To: glwilkie1@bigpond.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] New Brake Calipers For Late BJ8 ?
> Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 08:06:44 -0400
>
> And while you are at it, it would be prudent to install a clutch bleeder
> extension available from Doug Reid.
> http://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca/technical/brakelines.html
>
> Will save you a lot of work and profanity.
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Graham Wilkie
> Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 3:43 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] New Brake Calipers For Late BJ8 ?
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I have not been on the Healeys Mailing List for a couple of years, due to
> various reasons, and the Healey has sat idle.
>
> I have decided to replace the clutch flex hose and the three brake flex
> hoses (as well as attend to other items) before driving the car again.
While
> contemplating the two front brake hoses, it occurred to me that it would be
> prudent to rebuild the two brake calipers while the front end is up on the
> stands.
>
> However I noticed that Moss Motors are offering new brake calipers for late
> BJ8's (from 26705) for only $87.95 each, on sale.
>
> If anyone has recently purchased a set of these, I would be most grateful
if
> you would share your thoughts and experiences with these new calipers?
>
> (I have checked the archives and a similar question was raised back in
2009,
> but it seems nobody back then had tried these out, as the performance or
> quality was not addressed in the various responses).
>
> Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
> HBJ8L 32382.
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 01:06:25 2013
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From: Graham Wilkie <glwilkie1@bigpond.com>
To: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 07:05:45 +0000
References: <BLU177-W3E850DF2705A7538D4B0EE3760@phx.gbl>,
	<BAY173-DS1986CCCB5BBB3D3DE4A85AC6760@phx.gbl>
	FILETIME=[13832A90:01CE7497]
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Brake Calipers For Late BJ8 ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Jonas,

Thank you to yourself and Jerry Costanzo for your positive feedback on these
new calipers.

I will go ahead and order a set and install them with added confidence.

Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
HBJ8L 32382.

> From: jagmog@hotmail.com
> To: glwilkie1@bigpond.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] New Brake Calipers For Late BJ8 ?
> Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 07:52:08 -0700
>
> I bought them and put them on my car, they were cheaper than rebuilding the
> old ones.
>
> They matched up fine and worked great.
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting
> 702-882-6711
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Graham Wilkie
> Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 12:43 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] New Brake Calipers For Late BJ8 ?
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I have not been on the Healeys Mailing List for a couple of years, due to
> various reasons, and the Healey has sat idle.
>
> I have decided to replace the clutch flex hose and the three brake flex
> hoses (as well as attend to other items) before driving the car again.
While
> contemplating the two front brake hoses, it occurred to me that it would be
> prudent to rebuild the two brake calipers while the front end is up on the
> stands.
>
> However I noticed that Moss Motors are offering new brake calipers for late
> BJ8's (from 26705) for only $87.95 each, on sale.
>
> If anyone has recently purchased a set of these, I would be most grateful
if
> you would share your thoughts and experiences with these new calipers?
>
> (I have checked the archives and a similar question was raised back in
2009,
> but it seems nobody back then had tried these out, as the performance or
> quality was not addressed in the various responses).
>
> Cheers, Graham Wilkie.
> HBJ8L 32382.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jagmog@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 02:25:48 2013
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 10:24:59 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1372473684.55947.YahooMailClassic@web162901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Where to put my mirrors.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Put mirrors always as near to the eyes as possible to get the widest 
view angle. If possible get convex mirrors to increase the view angle 
even more. The down side is that with convex mirrors the cars coming up 
from behind appear much smaller/further away than they really are, but 
one get soon accustomed to that.
The old style mirrors that are clamped to the side window frame may be a 
good solution and do not need holes in the bodywork.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Op 29-6-2013 4:41, Greg Mandas schreef:
> Team,
>
> I have have what I believe are called Lucas style mirrors.
>
> Like these:  http://www.victoriabritish.com/Features/T6/T6MR1.htm
>
> They are mounted on the doors just aft of the wing vents.
>
> They are useless. I get a good view of the rear tires and that's as high as they go.
>
> I'd like to move them, but to where? I thought on the fenders out over the tires was cool but the body shop guy says they're not that functional out there and it visually screws up the lines of the fender which are an important design element of the BJ8.
>
> Lastly, I am 6'0" tall.  I had to get the rearview mirror extension to raise it up enough to see out the back.
>
> All that being said, where do I put the mirrors.
>
> Greg
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2013.0.3345 / Virusdatabase: 3204/6448 - datum van uitgifte: 06/28/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 02:36:29 2013
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 10:29:05 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1372473684.55947.YahooMailClassic@web162901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Where to put my mirrors.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Another good idea is using a wide angle interior mirror that clips over 
the existing interior mirror. I have used one for years and showes that 
when driving with the top down you do not need a passenger side mirror 
at al and it even covers a large part of the view on the drivers side.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 29-6-2013 4:41, Greg Mandas schreef:
> Team,
>
> I have have what I believe are called Lucas style mirrors.
>
> Like these:  http://www.victoriabritish.com/Features/T6/T6MR1.htm
>
> They are mounted on the doors just aft of the wing vents.
>
> They are useless. I get a good view of the rear tires and that's as high as they go.
>
> I'd like to move them, but to where? I thought on the fenders out over the tires was cool but the body shop guy says they're not that functional out there and it visually screws up the lines of the fender which are an important design element of the BJ8.
>
> Lastly, I am 6'0" tall.  I had to get the rearview mirror extension to raise it up enough to see out the back.
>
> All that being said, where do I put the mirrors.
>
> Greg
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 05:44:26 2013
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 7:43:45 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Where to put my mirrors.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

After having already driven 1400 miles and still 600 to go--going to and around Conclave, I can vouch strongly for the clip-on side view mirror.  You actually can see the right side pretty good as well as the left---and yesterday we drove 0ver 300 miles of solid rain with luggage strapped to the luggage rack.  Happy to have had the clip-on side view mirror

tom


---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: 

=============
Another good idea is using a wide angle interior mirror that clips over 
the existing interior mirror. I have used one for years and showes that 
when driving with the top down you do not need a passenger side mirror 
at al and it even covers a 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 06:10:30 2013
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From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: "'Greg Mandas'" <gmandas@yahoo.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <00a501ce708c$f3a719b0$daf54d10$@tpg.com.au>
	<1372473684.55947.YahooMailClassic@web162901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 05:04:56 -0700
Thread-Index: AQLS9OwqZQo7jUiy6DuA8JaLa3cY+pdDlsnA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Where to put my mirrors.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have two sets of mirrors for my BT7.  One is a set of 72 Harley mirrors
for when I am not running side curtains, the other a set of Raydots that I
made an aluminum gizmo to mount on the side curtains.  If I had a BJ8 then I
would probably get the high mount clip ons.  I saw a few sets at Rendezvous
and they looked very functional although not too stylish.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg Mandas
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 7:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Where to put my mirrors.

Team,

I have have what I believe are called Lucas style mirrors.

Like these:  http://www.victoriabritish.com/Features/T6/T6MR1.htm

They are mounted on the doors just aft of the wing vents.

They are useless. I get a good view of the rear tires and that's as high as
they go.

I'd like to move them, but to where? I thought on the fenders out over the
tires was cool but the body shop guy says they're not that functional out
there and it visually screws up the lines of the fender which are an
important design element of the BJ8.

Lastly, I am 6'0" tall.  I had to get the rearview mirror extension to raise
it up enough to see out the back.

All that being said, where do I put the mirrors.

Greg
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 10:31:22 2013
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 09:24:14 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Work stand
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike,

It should work equally well on your BN2.

Curt


On Fri, Jun 28, 2013 at 10:20 PM, Michael MacLean
<rrengineer.mike@att.net>wrote:

> Every time I think the body of my BN2 is going to get painted, we find
> something that needs to be fixed, welded or adjusted.  It is very close
> just
> for the fact that the painter is tired of seeing it in his shop.  Now I
> have
> the problem of what to do when it comes home.  It is just a body.  There
> is no
> suspension in it yet.  What did some of you guys use during the
> restoration to
> support the body while you worked on it before you installed the
> suspension?
> I would like to keep it lifted off the ground a few feet while I work on it
> just to make it easier on my back.  When I was working on my Bugeye I
> built a
> dolly from 2 X 6s that just fit under the car inside the wheel wells.  It
> had
> caster wheels to move it around the garage and I am considering building
> another one for the BN2.  It worked for the Bugeye because of the unibody
> construction.  I'm not so sure how this will work for the BN2.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 12:47:52 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Supporting a painted BN2 body
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I wonder if you're overthinking this. When I restored my BN7, while the body
was in the paint shop, I restored the steering shaft, idler arm, front
springs, A-arms, and shocks, rear end and axle, in other words, the minimum
number of components so that the car could sit on the ground and roll around
on its own wheels as needed. In fact, the paint shop allowed me to install the
suspension on its rack before bringing it home so I could simply roll it on
the trailer and come home. The problem with a support rack is that it prevents
easy access to things under the car.
And about the only thing you can install before the engine goes in -- which
means the suspension has to be on -- is the wiring harness and interior. So
why not just alter the order slightly, install the suspension immediately
after the painting is done, and then work from there?


G.

Gary Anderson
Editor-at-Large
Austin-Healey Magazine






----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 09:24:14 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Work stand
Message-ID:
	<CAJKrNeRtpyQrmQQGkWpmxv9rNED=1Qy-DofPxBJVk+m9KF=59g@mail.gmail.com>

Mike,

It should work equally well on your BN2.

Curt


On Fri, Jun 28, 2013 at 10:20 PM, Michael MacLean
<rrengineer.mike@att.net>wrote:

> Every time I think the body of my BN2 is going to get painted, we find
> something that needs to be fixed, welded or adjusted.  It is very close
> just
> for the fact that the painter is tired of seeing it in his shop.  Now I
> have
> the problem of what to do when it comes home.  It is just a body.  There
> is no
> suspension in it yet.  What did some of you guys use during the
> restoration to
> support the body while you worked on it before you installed the
> suspension?
> I would like to keep it lifted off the ground a few feet while I work on it
> just to make it easier on my back.  When I was working on my Bugeye I
> built a
> dolly from 2 X 6s that just fit under the car inside the wheel wells.  It
> had
> caster wheels to move it around the garage and I am considering building
> another one for the BN2.  It worked for the Bugeye because of the unibody
> construction.  I'm not so sure how this will work for the BN2.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 14:25:42 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 14:24:50 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac51BrTbUZg4MLJsQRSECL9jEjlNxQ==
Subject: [Healeys] Triumph Stag
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 A local competition is closing up shop and has a  Stag for sale. All
original, says the top is new. No pictures.. call me if you are REALLY
wanting it. It's priced really cheap.. ~$3000.00 US

dave

 

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 14:55:53 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Supporting a painted BN2 body
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Where you install the suspension doesn't matter. If you construct a moveable
frame, do it before you take the car to the body shop, but all it has to do is
give you a way to get the car on and off a trailer for those trips. Once it
gets back home, the best thing to do is to make the installation of the
suspension your first order of business. So that temporary stand doesn't need
to be anything special, and your sprite rack can probably work just fine.




Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz Club of America





-----Original Message-----
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: editorgary <editorgary@aol.com>
Sent: Sat, Jun 29, 2013 11:59 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Supporting a painted BN2 body




Gary,
     Thanks for the suggestion.  I doubt I would be able to use the paint shop
to install anything.  This guy is very busy and cramped for space as he is
working on six other Healeys in a shop he rents from a stone mason.  The stone
mason still uses part of the shop on a limited basis, so it can get very
hectic at times. He rents a paint booth from the body shop across the way to
paint the cars.  As soon as it is painted, it is coming home.
Mike
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 15:07:26 2013
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 15:06:58 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Triumph Stag
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David Porter wrote:
>   A local competition is closing up shop and has a  Stag for sale. All
> original, says the top is new. No pictures.. call me if you are REALLY
> wanting it. It's priced really cheap.. ~$3000.00 US
>
>

I sent this info to the triumph list.  I'd buy it myself, except for
2 small details.  I can't afford the car, I can't afford the ensuing 
divorce.

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 16:53:26 2013
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 15:52:53 -0700
	FILETIME=[63E87AB0:01CE751B]
Subject: [Healeys] Check for water in boot
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For those of you who enjoyed the free car wash at the car show in Tahoe, you
may want to check under the "carpet" in the boot and other hidden places in
our cars (like the seats).  I had a little moisture under the battery (BJ8).
Not much but considering the amount of rain for two days.
Rich Kahn
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 18:10:10 2013
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<< On 6/29/2013 4:06 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> I can't afford the ensuing divorce. >>

A "LOT" of us have THAT problem, Mark ! ! !   LOL  <or? cry, sob, sob??>

Ed
Please visit MY site at:                    www.justbrits.com
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From: Joan Yow <joan_yow@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes squeeling
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Hi Healey friends - just returned from Conclave, managed to scare many Healey drivers and lots of Canadians, every touch of the brakes produced long squeels. Had the sounds before, replaced the pads with ones recommended, installed shims, nothing seems to work, Mike Salter had rebuilt the calipers so I am sure they are fine. Suggestions?? Frank Yow BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 12:58:33 2013
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Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 11:55:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: Forum Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
	TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
	tests=NO_REAL_NAME
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Subject: [Healeys] Mal Doherty RIP
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At the Lake Tahoe meet I found out that Mal had died in Feb. Perhaps others do not know this either. He was a valuable contributor to the Austin Healey scene in Southern California since the mid 50's. He was a multiple slalom champion in his black 100. I met him in 1976, naturally at a slalom. He made his Healey dance through the cones. He gave me great advice and great stories since then.
Condolences to Ruth and the family.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 03:38:21 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Joan Yow <joan_yow@yahoo.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brakes squeeling
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Try shims from a different supplier.  Also, I really like Redstuff or
Greenstuff pads, they don't squeak!

On Sunday, June 30, 2013, Joan Yow wrote:

> Hi Healey friends - just returned from Conclave, managed to scare many
> Healey drivers and lots of Canadians, every touch of the brakes produced
> long squeels. Had the sounds before, replaced the pads with ones
> recommended, installed shims, nothing seems to work, Mike Salter had
> rebuilt the calipers so I am sure they are fine. Suggestions?? Frank Yow BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 13:51:05 2013
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From: Randy Hicks <healey100m@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 15:50:28 -0400
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: Joan Yow <joan_yow@yahoo.com>,
	"healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brakes squeeling
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've been using the Greenstuff pads also and no issues or squeals at all. Good
life also.

Randy

On Jun 30, 2013, at 3:38 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> Try shims from a different supplier.  Also, I really like Redstuff or
> Greenstuff pads, they don't squeak!
>
> On Sunday, June 30, 2013, Joan Yow wrote:
>
>> Hi Healey friends - just returned from Conclave, managed to scare many
>> Healey drivers and lots of Canadians, every touch of the brakes produced
>> long squeels. Had the sounds before, replaced the pads with ones
>> recommended, installed shims, nothing seems to work, Mike Salter had
>> rebuilt the calipers so I am sure they are fine. Suggestions?? Frank Yow
BT7
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 13:59:47 2013
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	<CAFBXTkKHZhw1Opmys+s0Ca5e6zhnXm5RM134_1VFPZrUBRiFhQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 12:58:43 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: Joan Yow <joan_yow@yahoo.com>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brakes squeeling
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Make sure rotors are smooth, no circle marks from having them turned. Soft
pads too. Grooves and hard pads create a harmonic result.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
please excuse typos. Sent from my phone
On Jun 30, 2013 12:38 PM, "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> Try shims from a different supplier.  Also, I really like Redstuff or
> Greenstuff pads, they don't squeak!
>
> On Sunday, June 30, 2013, Joan Yow wrote:
>
> > Hi Healey friends - just returned from Conclave, managed to scare many
> > Healey drivers and lots of Canadians, every touch of the brakes produced
> > long squeels. Had the sounds before, replaced the pads with ones
> > recommended, installed shims, nothing seems to work, Mike Salter had
> > rebuilt the calipers so I am sure they are fine. Suggestions?? Frank Yow
> BT7
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 16:17:45 2013
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From: Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 22:14:22 +0000
References: <1372618211.74850.YahooMailNeo@web162204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<CAFBXTkKHZhw1Opmys+s0Ca5e6zhnXm5RM134_1VFPZrUBRiFhQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brakes squeeling
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Frank
Others have suggested replacing the pads with other material and/or trying
other shims. How about some anti-squeal spray on the back of the pads? That
has cured squealing for me on other cars. I once had a TR7 with a persistent
squeal and tried the other fixes without any success. Someone suggested
chamfering the leading edge of the pads and that finally cured the problem.
Are you sure the problem wasn't all the rain??
Good to meet you at Conclave.
Rick Swain'59 BN4
Back home in soggy Nova Scotia with carpets hanging in front of a fan and a
heater going full blast in the car to try to dry out the underlay

> > Hi Healey friends - just returned from Conclave, managed to scare many
> > Healey drivers and lots of Canadians, every touch of the brakes produced
> > long squeels. Had the sounds before, replaced the pads with ones
> > recommended, installed shims, nothing seems to work, Mike Salter had
> > rebuilt the calipers so I am sure they are fine. Suggestions?? Frank Yow
BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 16:34:33 2013
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To: "AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1808821263.2314701.1372618521396.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 15:32:09 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mal Doherty RIP
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Very sad news, indeed, to hear of Mal's passing.

I met Mal at the Fresno, CA, Healey Daze '77.  There was an Autocrosse (sic) 
held in the Convention Center parking lot.  This lot was a series of 
parallel rows divided by concrete parking blocks and with a curbing all 
around the perimeter.  When it was time to start the event, no one wanted to 
go first.  Having participated in a few autocrosses previously, I 
volunteered to do so.  My time was 1 minute, 42.0  seconds.  As the event 
progressed, my time held up keeping me in first place.  Some over-ambitious, 
and perhaps over-lubricated, contestants got too enthusiastic and ran over 
the concrete blocks and/or curbs doing some major damage to their Healeys. 
Then along came Mal.  With a time of 1 minute, 40.9 seconds, Mal relegated 
me to second place for the event.  Third place driver is unknown but turned 
a time of 1 minute, 43 seconds.

Mal and I both drove, showed, and/or participated in driving events at 
various Healey meets after that.  I will miss him and his beautiful Hundred.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <goldengt@cal.net>
To: "Forum Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 11:55 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Mal Doherty RIP


> At the Lake Tahoe meet I found out that Mal had died in Feb. Perhaps 
> others do not know this either. He was a valuable contributor to the 
> Austin Healey scene in Southern California since the mid 50's. He was a 
> multiple slalom champion in his black 100. I met him in 1976, naturally at 
> a slalom. He made his Healey dance through the cones. He gave me great 
> advice and great stories since then.
> Condolences to Ruth and the family.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 17:19:19 2013
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From: Don Joy <britcar1@msn.com>
To: Joan Yow <joan_yow@yahoo.com>, AustinHealey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 16:13:39 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brakes squeeling
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I had terrible squealing problems with the brakes on my '67 BJ8 until a
British shop here in town told me to try some  pads made by TRW.  They are
part number GDB 541 and says for Austin Healey, Morgan, and Morgan Plus on the
box.  They also have Lucas on the box.  Since then I have had no problems with
squealing.

Don Joy
Yakima, WA

> Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 11:50:11 -0700
> From: joan_yow@yahoo.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Brakes squeeling
>
> Hi Healey friends - just returned from Conclave, managed to scare many
Healey drivers and lots of Canadians, every touch of the brakes produced long
squeels. Had the sounds before, replaced the pads with ones recommended,
installed shims, nothing seems to work, Mike Salter had rebuilt the calipers
so I am sure they are fine. Suggestions?? Frank Yow BT7
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Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 21:20:42 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Healeys] Conclave
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Just got back home from Conclave today---2065 total miles driven in the BJ8.  she ran exceptionally strong thru pouring rain almost all the way back----and------leaked VERY little---true:)

What a great experience at Conclave.  The Quebec group did a fine job of setting up this event.  Beautiful country and hotel!

Thanks to all of you for working so hard on this event.

Tom
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