Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another O/D issue

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2022 20:21:47 -0700

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The switch may be pipe thread, but you set its depth with shims (which 
are just fiber washers), part# 134 in this diagram:

https://mossmotors.com/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift

The lever on the shift rod (#94) bumps the switch; it only presses 
against the switch, closing its contacts, in 3rd & 4th. Pushing the 
lever to the right pushes the shift rod to the left into the switch. If 
you have a 'shim' under the switch, removing it, or putting a thinner 
one in, should solve the problem (the tip of the switch has limited 
travel, you don't want to jam it into the switch). If not, you'll need a 
new switch (contacts worn, maybe). Least likely, but not impossible, is 
a worn shift rod (they're brass).

On 6/15/2022 7:33 PM, [email-masked] wrote:
>
> Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping 
> out of overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the left.  This is 
> without doubt opening the contact in the gearbox switch that only 
> permits the O/D to operate in 3^rd and 4^th thus causing the O/D to 
> disengage.  Pushing the lever to the right re-engages it. I do not 
> recall any adjustment on the switch to screw it in further, in fact I 
> think it is a pipe thread and will only go in so far.  I am not sure 
> what part of the shift lever actually bears on the end of the switch 
> to engage it.  The workshop manual is not much help in figuring it 
> out.  Is it the switch or is it what ever it bears on when in 3^rd or 
> 4^th ?   I have not had the g’box cover off to look at it yet but 
> thought I’d ask the list if anyone had encountered this.
>
> Thoughts and ideas?
>
>

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    The switch may be pipe thread, but you set its depth with shims
    (which are just fiber washers), part# 134 in this diagram:<br>
    <br>
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://mossmotors.com/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift">https://mossmotors.com/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift</a><br>
    <br>
    The lever on the shift rod (#94) bumps the switch; it only presses
    against the switch, closing its contacts, in 3rd &amp; 4th. Pushing
    the lever to the right pushes the shift rod to the left into the
    switch. If you have a 'shim' under the switch, removing it, or
    putting a thinner one in, should solve the problem (the tip of the
    switch has limited travel, you don't want to jam it into the
    switch). If not, you'll need a new switch (contacts worn, maybe).
    Least likely, but not impossible, is a worn shift rod (they're
    brass).<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/15/2022 7:33 PM,
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
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        <p class="MsoNormal">Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e.
          sideshifter) is dropping out of overdrive if I wiggle the
          shift lever to the left.  This is without doubt opening the
          contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to
          operate in 3<sup>rd</sup> and 4<sup>th</sup> thus causing the
          O/D to disengage.  Pushing the lever to the right re-engages
          it. I do not recall any adjustment on the switch to screw it
          in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thread and will only
          go in so far.  I am not sure what part of the shift lever
          actually bears on the end of the switch to engage it.  The
          workshop manual is not much help in figuring it out.  Is it
          the switch or is it what ever it bears on when in 3<sup>rd</sup>
          or 4<sup>th</sup>?   I have not had the g’box cover off to
          look at it yet but thought I’d ask the list if anyone had
          encountered this.  <o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Thoughts and ideas?<o:p></o:p></p>
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        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2022 22:01:46 -0700

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Hi Marek.  Had the same thing happen to me years ago on my BJ8. Same design=
 different arrangement on the centre shifts as on the side shifts =E2=80=93=
 same switch part# for all.  Bob is right =E2=80=93 the switch setting (not=
 a tapered thread) is done with the fibre washer as a shim.  The ball end a=
ctivator on the switch wears with mileage =E2=80=93 the switch has to be mo=
ved a bit inward to make up for the wear.  A thinner washer (or maybe even =
no washer) will do the trick. As Bob says, just don=E2=80=99t jam it.

Earl Kagna

Victoria BC

BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

From: Healeys <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2022 8:22 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another O/D issue

The switch may be pipe thread, but you set its depth with shims (which are =
just fiber washers), part# 134 in this diagram:

The lever on the shift rod (#94) bumps the switch; it only presses against =
the switch, closing its contacts, in 3rd & 4th. Pushing the lever to the ri=
ght pushes the shift rod to the left into the switch. If you have a 'shim' =
under the switch, removing it, or putting a thinner one in, should solve th=
e problem (the tip of the switch has limited travel, you don't want to jam =
it into the switch). If not, you'll need a new switch (contacts worn, maybe=
). Least likely, but not impossible, is a worn shift rod (they're brass).

>  wrote:

Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out of =
overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the left.  This is without doubt o=
pening the contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to opera=
te in 3rd and 4th thus causing the O/D to disengage.  Pushing the lever to =
the right re-engages it. I do not recall any adjustment on the switch to sc=
rew it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thread and will only go in =
so far.  I am not sure what part of the shift lever actually bears on the e=
nd of the switch to engage it.  The workshop manual is not much help in fig=
uring it out.  Is it the switch or is it what ever it bears on when in 3rd =
or 4th?   I have not had the g=E2=80=99box cover off to look at it yet but =
thought I=E2=80=99d ask the list if anyone had encountered this.  

Thoughts and ideas?

 

-- 
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vli=
nk=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div class=3DWordSection1><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal>Hi Marek.=C2=A0 Had the same thing happen to me years ago on=
 my BJ8. Same design different arrangement on the centre shifts as on the s=
ide shifts =E2=80=93 same switch part# for all.=C2=A0 Bob is right =E2=80=
=93 the switch setting (not a tapered thread) is done with the fibre washer=
 as a shim.=C2=A0 The ball end activator on the switch wears with mileage =
=E2=80=93 the switch has to be moved a bit inward to make up for the wear.=
=C2=A0 A thinner washer (or maybe even no washer) will do the trick. As Bob=
 says, just don=E2=80=99t jam it.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&=
nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Earl Kagna<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMso=
Normal>Victoria BC<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>BJ8, BT7 tri-carb<o:p=
></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal> =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div style=3D=
'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p c=
lass=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt=
; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob Spidell<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, June 15, 2022 =
8:22 PM<br><b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healey=
s] Another O/D issue<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>The switc=
h may be pipe thread, but you set its depth with shims (which are just fibe=
r washers), part# 134 in this diagram:<br><br><a href=3D"https://mossmotors=
=2Ecom/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift">https://mossmotors.com/external=
-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift</a><br><br>The lever on the shift rod (#94) bum=
ps the switch; it only presses against the switch, closing its contacts, in=
 3rd &amp; 4th. Pushing the lever to the right pushes the shift rod to the =
left into the switch. If you have a 'shim' under the switch, removing it, o=
r putting a thinner one in, should solve the problem (the tip of the switch=
 has limited travel, you don't want to jam it into the switch). If not, you=
'll need a new switch (contacts worn, maybe). Least likely, but not impossi=
ble, is a worn shift rod (they're brass).<br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><p=
 class=3DMsoNormal>On 6/15/2022 7:33 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:m.g.sharp@sympat=
ico.ca">[email-masked]</a> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote s=
tyle=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal>Hi liste=
rs, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out of overdriv=
e if I wiggle the shift lever to the left.&nbsp; This is without doubt open=
ing the contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to operate =
in 3<sup>rd</sup> and 4<sup>th</sup> thus causing the O/D to disengage.&nbs=
p; Pushing the lever to the right re-engages it. I do not recall any adjust=
ment on the switch to screw it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thr=
ead and will only go in so far. &nbsp;I am not sure what part of the shift =
lever actually bears on the end of the switch to engage it.&nbsp; The works=
hop manual is not much help in figuring it out.&nbsp; Is it the switch or i=
s it what ever it bears on when in 3<sup>rd</sup> or 4<sup>th</sup>?&nbsp; =
&nbsp;I have not had the g=E2=80=99box cover off to look at it yet but thou=
ght I=E2=80=99d ask the list if anyone had encountered this.&nbsp; <o:p></o=
:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Thoug=
hts and ideas?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p c=
lass=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p=
></p></blockquote><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div id=
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[email-masked]

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From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2022 07:41:30 -0400

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Thanks Earl/Bob =E2=80=93 I was hoping the switch would be adjustable.  =
I will find time to get the g=E2=80=99box cover off (ugh!) and adjust =
it.  I have another g=E2=80=99box, so if that does not work I can =
=E2=80=9Cswitch=E2=80=9D some parts =F0=9F=98=8A.

=20

Cheers, Mirek

=20

From: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>=20
Sent: June 16, 2022 1:02 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]; Healey List <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Another O/D issue

=20

Hi Marek.  Had the same thing happen to me years ago on my BJ8. Same =
design different arrangement on the centre shifts as on the side shifts =
=E2=80=93 same switch part# for all.  Bob is right =E2=80=93 the switch =
setting (not a tapered thread) is done with the fibre washer as a shim.  =
The ball end activator on the switch wears with mileage =E2=80=93 the =
switch has to be moved a bit inward to make up for the wear.  A thinner =
washer (or maybe even no washer) will do the trick. As Bob says, just =
don=E2=80=99t jam it.

=20

Earl Kagna

Victoria BC

BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

=20

=20

=20

=20

The switch may be pipe thread, but you set its depth with shims (which =
are just fiber washers), part# 134 in this diagram:

The lever on the shift rod (#94) bumps the switch; it only presses =
against the switch, closing its contacts, in 3rd & 4th. Pushing the =
lever to the right pushes the shift rod to the left into the switch. If =
you have a 'shim' under the switch, removing it, or putting a thinner =
one in, should solve the problem (the tip of the switch has limited =
travel, you don't want to jam it into the switch). If not, you'll need a =
new switch (contacts worn, maybe). Least likely, but not impossible, is =
a worn shift rod (they're brass).

On 6/15/2022 7:33 PM, [email-masked] =

Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out =
of overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the left.  This is without =
doubt opening the contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the =
O/D to operate in 3rd and 4th thus causing the O/D to disengage.  =
Pushing the lever to the right re-engages it. I do not recall any =
adjustment on the switch to screw it in further, in fact I think it is a =
pipe thread and will only go in so far.  I am not sure what part of the =
shift lever actually bears on the end of the switch to engage it.  The =
workshop manual is not much help in figuring it out.  Is it the switch =
or is it what ever it bears on when in 3rd or 4th?   I have not had the =
g=E2=80=99box cover off to look at it yet but thought I=E2=80=99d ask =
the list if anyone had encountered this. =20

=20

Thoughts and ideas?

=20

=20

=20

=20

=20

 =
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm=
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Virus-free.  =
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm=
_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient> www.avast.com=20

=20

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vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Thanks Earl/Bob =E2=80=93 I was =
hoping the switch would be adjustable.=C2=A0 I will find time to get the =
g=E2=80=99box cover off (ugh!) and adjust it.=C2=A0 I have another =
g=E2=80=99box, so if that does not work I can =E2=80=9Cswitch=E2=80=9D =
some parts </span><span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI =
Emoji",sans-serif;mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>&#128522;</span><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Cheers, =
Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><di=
v style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US> [email-masked] =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br><b>Sent:</b> June 16, 2022 1:02 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> 'Bob Spidell' =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> [email-masked]; =
Healey List &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> RE: =
[Healeys] Another O/D issue<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US>Hi Marek.&nbsp; Had the same thing happen to me years ago =
on my BJ8. Same design different arrangement on the centre shifts as on =
the side shifts =E2=80=93 same switch part# for all.&nbsp; Bob is right =
=E2=80=93 the switch setting (not a tapered thread) is done with the =
fibre washer as a shim.&nbsp; The ball end activator on the switch wears =
with mileage =E2=80=93 the switch has to be moved a bit inward to make =
up for the wear.&nbsp; A thinner washer (or maybe even no washer) will =
do the trick. As Bob says, just don=E2=80=99t jam =
it.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US>Earl Kagna<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US>Victoria BC<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US>BJ8, BT7 tri-carb<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US> Healeys =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob =
Spidell<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, June 15, 2022 8:22 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
[email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Another O/D =
issue<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span lang=3DEN-US>The switch may be pipe =
thread, but you set its depth with shims (which are just fiber washers), =
part# 134 in this diagram:<br><br><a =
href=3D"https://mossmotors.com/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift">https=
://mossmotors.com/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift</a><br><br>The =
lever on the shift rod (#94) bumps the switch; it only presses against =
the switch, closing its contacts, in 3rd &amp; 4th. Pushing the lever to =
the right pushes the shift rod to the left into the switch. If you have =
a 'shim' under the switch, removing it, or putting a thinner one in, =
should solve the problem (the tip of the switch has limited travel, you =
don't want to jam it into the switch). If not, you'll need a new switch =
(contacts worn, maybe). Least likely, but not impossible, is a worn =
shift rod (they're brass).<br><br><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US>On 6/15/2022 7:33 PM, <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US>Hi listers, I am finding that my =
BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out of overdrive if I wiggle the =
shift lever to the left.&nbsp; This is without doubt opening the contact =
in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to operate in =
3<sup>rd</sup> and 4<sup>th</sup> thus causing the O/D to =
disengage.&nbsp; Pushing the lever to the right re-engages it. I do not =
recall any adjustment on the switch to screw it in further, in fact I =
think it is a pipe thread and will only go in so far. &nbsp;I am not =
sure what part of the shift lever actually bears on the end of the =
switch to engage it.&nbsp; The workshop manual is not much help in =
figuring it out.&nbsp; Is it the switch or is it what ever it bears on =
when in 3<sup>rd</sup> or 4<sup>th</sup>?&nbsp; &nbsp;I have not had the =
g=E2=80=99box cover off to look at it yet but thought I=E2=80=99d ask =
the list if anyone had encountered this.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US>Thoughts and =
ideas?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></blockquote><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div =
id=3DDAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><table class=3DMsoNormalTable =
border=3D1 cellpadding=3D0 style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #D3D4DE =
1.0pt'><tr><td width=3D55 =
style=3D'width:41.25pt;border:none;padding:9.75pt .75pt .75pt .75pt'><p =
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<o:p></o:p></span></p></td></tr></table><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2022 07:55:04 -0400

--===============3516731309622314321==

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Hi Mirek, normally there are thin fiber washers under the switch which are
used for adjustment.
Most are fitted with 1 washer but occasionally you will find 2.
Removing a washer will effectively move the switch further into the gearbox
which should resolve your issue.
If there are no washers it's probably best to buy a replacement switch. The
switches available from the usual suspects seem to be quite reliable.

M

On Wed., Jun. 15, 2022, 10:33 p.m. , <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out o=
f
> overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the left.  This is without doubt
> opening the contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to
> operate in 3rd and 4th thus causing the O/D to disengage.  Pushing the
> lever to the right re-engages it. I do not recall any adjustment on the
> switch to screw it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thread and wi=
ll
> only go in so far.  I am not sure what part of the shift lever actually
> bears on the end of the switch to engage it.  The workshop manual is not
> much help in figuring it out.  Is it the switch or is it what ever it bea=
rs
> on when in 3rd or 4th?   I have not had the g=E2=80=99box cover off to lo=
ok at it
> yet but thought I=E2=80=99d ask the list if anyone had encountered this.
>
>
>
> Thoughts and ideas?
>
>
>
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--000000000000acee6905e18f4ff4
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<div dir=3D"auto">Hi Mirek, normally there are thin fiber washers under the=
 switch which are used for adjustment.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto">Most are fitt=
ed with 1 washer but occasionally you will find 2.</div><div dir=3D"auto">R=
emoving a washer will effectively move the switch further into the gearbox =
which should resolve your issue.</div><div dir=3D"auto">If there are no was=
hers it&#39;s probably best to buy a replacement switch. The switches avail=
able from the usual suspects seem to be quite reliable.</div><div dir=3D"au=
to"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"=
><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed., Jun. 15, 2022, 10:33 p.m. ,=
 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&g=
t; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 =
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-CA" link=
=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple" style=3D"word-wrap:break-word"><div class=3D"m_1=
991003637696810307WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Hi listers, I am fin=
ding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out of overdrive if I wiggl=
e the shift lever to the left.=C2=A0 This is without doubt opening the cont=
act in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to operate in 3<sup>rd<=
/sup> and 4<sup>th</sup> thus causing the O/D to disengage.=C2=A0 Pushing t=
he lever to the right re-engages it. I do not recall any adjustment on the =
switch to screw it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thread and will=
 only go in so far.=C2=A0 I am not sure what part of the shift lever actual=
ly bears on the end of the switch to engage it.=C2=A0 The workshop manual i=
s not much help in figuring it out.=C2=A0 Is it the switch or is it what ev=
er it bears on when in 3<sup>rd</sup> or 4<sup>th</sup>?=C2=A0 =C2=A0I have=
 not had the g=E2=80=99box cover off to look at it yet but thought I=E2=80=
=99d ask the list if anyone had encountered this.=C2=A0 <u></u><u></u></p><=
p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Though=
ts and ideas?<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u><=
/p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div></div>_____________=
__________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <=
a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferr=
er">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/heal=
eys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><b=
r>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2022 10:19:47 -0400

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Thanks Mike,  I might take the switch off the other g=E2=80=99box first =
and try it.  However, given that the switch has a steel ball on the end =
which engages onto the brass shift fork, I suspect it is the brass that =
wears.  So unless the replacement switches are a smidgen longer, I =
don=E2=80=99t see how that would change things.  Anyhow, I know what the =
problem is, so when I have it apart I will figure out a solution.

=20

Thanks,  Mirek

=20

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>=20
Sent: June 16, 2022 7:55 AM
To: Mirek Sharp <[email-masked]>
Cc: Healey List <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another O/D issue

=20

Hi Mirek, normally there are thin fiber washers under the switch which =
are used for adjustment.=20

Removing a washer will effectively move the switch further into the =
gearbox which should resolve your issue.

If there are no washers it's probably best to buy a replacement switch. =
The switches available from the usual suspects seem to be quite =
reliable.

=20

M

=20

On Wed., Jun. 15, 2022, 10:33 p.m. , <[email-masked] =

=20

Thoughts and ideas?

=20

=20

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-CA link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Thanks Mike,=C2=A0 I might take the =
switch off the other g=E2=80=99box first and try it.=C2=A0 However, =
given that the switch has a steel ball on the end which engages onto the =
brass shift fork, I suspect it is the brass that wears.=C2=A0 So unless =
the replacement switches are a smidgen longer, I don=E2=80=99t see how =
that would change things.=C2=A0 Anyhow, I know what the problem is, so =
when I have it apart I will figure out a =
solution.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Thanks,=C2=A0 =
Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US> Michael Salter =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br><b>Sent:</b> June 16, 2022 7:55 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> Mirek Sharp =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> Healey List =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Another =
O/D issue<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Hi =
Mirek, normally there are thin fiber washers under the switch which are =
used for adjustment.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Most =
are fitted with 1 washer but occasionally you will find =
2.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Removing a washer will =
effectively move the switch further into the gearbox which should =
resolve your issue.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>If =
there are no washers it's probably best to buy a replacement switch. The =
switches available from the usual suspects seem to be quite =
reliable.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>M<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Wed., Jun. 15, 2022, 10:33 p.m. , &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Hi listers, =
I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out of overdrive =
if I wiggle the shift lever to the left.&nbsp; This is without doubt =
opening the contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to =
operate in 3<sup>rd</sup> and 4<sup>th</sup> thus causing the O/D to =
disengage.&nbsp; Pushing the lever to the right re-engages it. I do not =
recall any adjustment on the switch to screw it in further, in fact I =
think it is a pipe thread and will only go in so far.&nbsp; I am not =
sure what part of the shift lever actually bears on the end of the =
switch to engage it.&nbsp; The workshop manual is not much help in =
figuring it out.&nbsp; Is it the switch or is it what ever it bears on =
when in 3<sup>rd</sup> or 4<sup>th</sup>?&nbsp; &nbsp;I have not had the =
g=E2=80=99box cover off to look at it yet but thought I=E2=80=99d ask =
the list if anyone had encountered this.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Thoughts =
and ideas?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;<o:p><=
/o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>__________________________________________=
_____<br>Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested =
annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br><br>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br><br><a =
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[email-masked]

--===============4658854207178336598==--

---

From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2022 06:29:57 -0400

Mirek,

I don't believe the OD 3/4 gear switch touches brass. I think that it 
presses against a flat on the control lever (1B3706) that the bottom of 
the gear shift lever fits in.

Item 94 on the Moss parts diagram: 
https://mossmotors.com/austin-healey-100-100-6-3000/clutch-gearbox-drivetrain/gearbox-driveshaft/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift

Or item # 28 / illus # 123 on page F.4 at John New's online parts list: 
https://lbcdigital.com/bmc_publications/akd1151/

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 6/16/22 10:19 AM, [email-masked] wrote:
>
> Thanks Mike,  I might take the switch off the other g’box first and 
> try it.  However, given that the switch has a steel ball on the end 
> which engages onto the brass shift fork, I suspect it is the brass 
> that wears.  So unless the replacement switches are a smidgen longer, 
> I don’t see how that would change things.  Anyhow, I know what the 
> *From:*Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
> *Sent:* June 16, 2022 7:55 AM
> *To:* Mirek Sharp <[email-masked]>
> *Cc:* Healey List <[email-masked]>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Another O/D issue
>
> Hi Mirek, normally there are thin fiber washers under the switch which 
> are used for adjustment.
>
> Removing a washer will effectively move the switch further into the 
> If there are no washers it's probably best to buy a replacement 
> switch. The switches available from the usual suspects seem to be 
> quite reliable.
>
> M
>
>     Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is
>     dropping out of overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the
>     left.  This is without doubt opening the contact in the gearbox
>     switch that only permits the O/D to operate in 3^rd and 4^th thus
>     causing the O/D to disengage.  Pushing the lever to the right
>     re-engages it. I do not recall any adjustment on the switch to
>     screw it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thread and will
>     only go in so far.  I am not sure what part of the shift lever
>     actually bears on the end of the switch to engage it. The workshop
>     manual is not much help in figuring it out.  Is it the switch or
>     is it what ever it bears on when in 3^rd or 4^th ?   I have not
>     had the g’box cover off to look at it yet but thought I’d ask the
>     list if anyone had encountered this.
>
>     Thoughts and ideas?
>
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