Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 11:32:52 -0400

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Turning off the small valve on the side of the engine will only ensure that
the heater is most definitely OFF and will have no other detrimental
effects.
The 100 has 2 such valves, one on the head and one on the water pump and I
always run with both turned off. My car is usually in winter storage before
it's cold enough to need the heater.

M

On Mon., Jul. 10, 2023, 10:41 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith=E2=80=99s heater. Normal insofar as=
 it never
> seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.
>
> We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and I was wondering about turning
> off the tap in the hose from the block that leads into the cabin for the
> heater.
>
> Would the heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out and fill with a mess o=
f
> rusty crud?
>
> Would the engine run hotter as there was a little less water running
> through the system?
>
> Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I tootle off to the loca=
l
> boozer?
>
> Or, most likely, none of the above, especially the last one?!
>
> I did take the car on quite a long trip the other day (Le Mans Classic!!)
> and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation, we were quite warm=
=E2=80=A6.
>
> The more I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning that tap
> off=E2=80=A6..
>
> The tap does work, before you all shout at once!
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
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<div dir=3D"auto">Turning off the small valve on the side of the engine wil=
l only ensure that the heater is most definitely OFF and will have no other=
 detrimental effects.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto">The 100 has 2 such valves, one=
 on the head and one on the water pump and I always run with both turned of=
f. My car is usually in winter storage before it&#39;s cold enough to need =
the heater.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div=
><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mo=
n., Jul. 10, 2023, 10:41 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, &lt;<a href=3D"mai=
lto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div>=
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-GB" link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=
=3D"#954F72"><div class=3D"m_7399484926794662424WordSection1"><p class=3D"M=
soNormal">I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith=E2=80=99s heater. Normal in=
sofar as it never seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.<u></u><u></u></p>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and I was won=
dering about turning off the tap in the hose from the block that leads into=
 the cabin for the heater.<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Would th=
e heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out and fill with a mess of rusty cr=
ud?<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Would the engine run hotter as =
there was a little less water running through the system?<u></u><u></u></p>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I t=
ootle off to the local boozer?<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Or, =
most likely, none of the above, especially the last one?!<u></u><u></u></p>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">I did take the car on quite a long trip the other da=
y (Le Mans Classic!!) and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation,=
 we were quite warm=E2=80=A6.<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">The m=
ore I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning that tap off=E2=
=80=A6..<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">The tap does work, before =
you all shout at once!<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Simon<u></u>=
<u></u></p></div></div>_______________________________________________<br>
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From: Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 17:36:40 +0200

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Do not turn it off. It might save you from overheating the engine on a 
very hot day or fan failure. When you see the coolant temperature rise 
expectantly turn on the heating with the heater fan full blast for some 
extra cooling of the engine (but over heating the driver and SWMBO). 
However check first if there is any coolant in the system at all.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 10-7-2023 om 16:26 schreef Simon Lachlan via Healeys:
>
> I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith’s heater. Normal insofar as it 
> never seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.
>
> We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and I was wondering about 
> turning off the tap in the hose from the block that leads into the 
> cabin for the heater.
>
> Would the heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out and fill with a 
> mess of rusty crud?
>
> Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I tootle off to the 
> local boozer?
>
> I did take the car on quite a long trip the other day (Le Mans 
> Classic!!) and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation, we 
> were quite warm….
>
> The more I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning that 
> tap off…..
>
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> [email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>

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    <p>Do not turn it off. It might save you from overheating the engine
      on a very hot day or fan failure. When you see the coolant
      temperature rise expectantly turn on the heating with the heater
      fan full blast for some extra cooling of the engine (but over
      heating the driver and SWMBO). However check first if there is any
      coolant in the system at all.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 10-7-2023 om 16:26 schreef Simon
      Lachlan via Healeys:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal">I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith’s
          heater. Normal insofar as it never seems to be turned OFF 100%
          or ON 100%.<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and
          I was wondering about turning off the tap in the hose from the
          block that leads into the cabin for the heater.<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Would the heater box and/or its valve
          semi-dry out and fill with a mess of rusty crud?<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Would the engine run hotter as there was a
          little less water running through the system?<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Or would I find myself basking in cool
          luxury as I tootle off to the local boozer?<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Or, most likely, none of the above,
          especially the last one?!<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">I did take the car on quite a long trip the
          other day (Le Mans Classic!!) and, once the heat had soaked
          through the insulation, we were quite warm….<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">The more I think about this, the less I
          like the idea of turning that tap off…..<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">The tap does work, before you all shout at
          once!<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Simon<o:p></o:p></p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 10:23:57 -0700

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Note the brass valve on the block is quite fragile and if it hasn't been 
'exercised' recently it's likely stuck and you stand a good chance of 
snapping-off the small handle if you manhandle it. Moss has the complete 
valve at $150, and replacement handles are available. If it doesn't move 
easily I recommend soaking with a good penetrant oil and carefully 
applying some heat, and work it little-by-little (IIRC, the valve has 
the 'OFF' direction embossed in the body). A 10/32 machine screw will 
work as a handle in a pinch. IIRC, the valve has the 'OFF' direction 
embossed in the body near the handle.

Both valves on the 100s are large and robust, though still can get stuck 
due to corrosion.

On 7/10/2023 8:32 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Turning off the small valve on the side of the engine will only ensure 
> that the heater is most definitely OFF and will have no other 
> detrimental effects.
> The 100 has 2 such valves, one on the head and one on the water pump 
> and I always run with both turned off. My car is usually in winter 
> storage before it's cold enough to need the heater.
>
> M
>
> On Mon., Jul. 10, 2023, 10:41 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, 
> <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>     I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith’s heater. Normal insofar as
>     it never seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.
>
>     Would the engine run hotter as there was a little less water
>     running through the system?
>
>     Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I tootle off to
>     the local boozer?
>
>     Classic!!) and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation,
>     we were quite warm….
>
>     The more I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning
>     that tap off…..
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>

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    Note the brass valve on the block is quite fragile and if it hasn't
    been 'exercised' recently it's likely stuck and you stand a good
    chance of snapping-off the small handle if you manhandle it. Moss
    has the complete valve at $150, and replacement handles are
    available. If it doesn't move easily I recommend soaking with a good
    penetrant oil and carefully applying some heat, and work it
    little-by-little (IIRC, the valve has the 'OFF' direction embossed
    in the body). A 10/32 machine screw will work as a handle in a
    pinch. IIRC, the valve has the 'OFF' direction embossed in the body
    near the handle.<br>
    <br>
    Both valves on the 100s are large and robust, though still can get
    stuck due to corrosion.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/10/2023 8:32 AM, Michael Salter
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="auto">Turning off the small valve on the side of the
        engine will only ensure that the heater is most definitely OFF
        and will have no other detrimental effects. 
        <div dir="auto">The 100 has 2 such valves, one on the head and
          one on the water pump and I always run with both turned off.
          My car is usually in winter storage before it's cold enough to
          need the heater.</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">M</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon., Jul. 10, 2023, 10:41
          a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, &lt;<a
            href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true"
            class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
          .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
          <div link="#0563C1" vlink="#954F72" lang="EN-GB">
            <div class="m_7399484926794662424WordSection1">
              <p class="MsoNormal">I have a MkII BT7 with a normal
                Smith’s heater. Normal insofar as it never seems to be
                turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">We are in our summer(?!) at the
                moment and I was wondering about turning off the tap in
                the hose from the block that leads into the cabin for
                the heater.</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">Would the heater box and/or its valve
                semi-dry out and fill with a mess of rusty crud?</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">Would the engine run hotter as there
                was a little less water running through the system?</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">Or would I find myself basking in
                cool luxury as I tootle off to the local boozer?</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">Or, most likely, none of the above,
                especially the last one?!</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">I did take the car on quite a long
                trip the other day (Le Mans Classic!!) and, once the
                heat had soaked through the insulation, we were quite
                warm….</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">The more I think about this, the less
                I like the idea of turning that tap off…..</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">The tap does work, before you all
                shout at once!</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal">Simon</p>
            </div>
          </div>
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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 10:36:28 -0700

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Ah, good point Kees. On a road trip coming out of Death Valley on a 
115degF day climbing the Panamint Mountains my BJ8's temp started 
climbing rapidly towards 212. I turned the heater on full blast--not 
fun, but better than boiling. Temp held steady at 212 until we crested 
the mountains and it started to come down and we were back to just 
miserable.

I suppose you could close it if you don't expect hot weather and, if you 
think of it, turn it on if the weather turns.

On 7/10/2023 8:36 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
> expectantly turn on the heating with the heater fan full blast for 
> some extra cooling of the engine (but over heating the driver and 
> SWMBO). However check first if there is any coolant in the system at all.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>

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    Ah, good point Kees. On a road trip coming out of Death Valley on a
    115degF day climbing the Panamint Mountains my BJ8's temp started
    climbing rapidly towards 212. I turned the heater on full blast--not
    fun, but better than boiling. Temp held steady at 212 until we
    crested the mountains and it started to come down and we were back
    to just miserable.<br>
    <br>
    I suppose you could close it if you don't expect hot weather and, if
    you think of it, turn it on if the weather turns.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/10/2023 8:36 AM, Kees Oudesluijs
      via Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <p>Do not turn it off. It might save you from overheating the
        engine on a very hot day or fan failure. When you see the
        coolant temperature rise expectantly turn on the heating with
        the heater fan full blast for some extra cooling of the engine
        (but over heating the driver and SWMBO). However check first if
        there is any coolant in the system at all.<br>
        Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      </p>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 10-7-2023 om 16:26 schreef Simon
        Lachlan via Healeys:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite"
        cite="mid:[email-masked]">
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          <p class="MsoNormal">I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith’s
            heater. Normal insofar as it never seems to be turned OFF
            100% or ON 100%.<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">We are in our summer(?!) at the moment
            and I was wondering about turning off the tap in the hose
            from the block that leads into the cabin for the heater.<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Would the heater box and/or its valve
            semi-dry out and fill with a mess of rusty crud?<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Would the engine run hotter as there was
            a little less water running through the system?<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Or would I find myself basking in cool
            luxury as I tootle off to the local boozer?<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Or, most likely, none of the above,
            especially the last one?!<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">I did take the car on quite a long trip
            the other day (Le Mans Classic!!) and, once the heat had
            soaked through the insulation, we were quite warm….<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">The more I think about this, the less I
            like the idea of turning that tap off…..<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">The tap does work, before you all shout
            at once!<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Simon<o:p></o:p></p>
        </div>
        <br>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 15:43:30 -0400

--===============8575339862806776522==

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Actually Bob, as an aside, the thread on the handle is actually 12- 32 ...
the only 12 - 32 thread on a Healey as far as I'm  aware.
I know you absolutely couldn't continue with life as is without that
incredibly important nugget of information. =F0=9F=A4=A3=F0=9F=A4=A3=F0=9F=
=A4=A3

M

On Mon., Jul. 10, 2023, 3:03 p.m. Bob Spidell, <[email-masked]> wrote=
:

> easily I recommend soaking with a good penetrant oil and carefully applyi=
ng
> some heat, and work it little-by-little (IIRC, the valve has the 'OFF'
> direction embossed in the body). A 10/32 machine screw will work as a
> handle in a pinch. IIRC, the valve has the 'OFF' direction embossed in th=
e
> body near the handle.
> that the heater is most definitely OFF and will have no other detrimental
> effects.
> The 100 has 2 such valves, one on the head and one on the water pump and =
I
> always run with both turned off. My car is usually in winter storage befo=
re
>> I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith=E2=80=99s heater. Normal insofar a=
s it
>> Would the heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out and fill with a mess
>> of rusty crud?
>>
>> I did take the car on quite a long trip the other day (Le Mans Classic!!=
)
=E2=80=A6.
>>
>> The more I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning that ta=
p
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive/healeys
> [email-masked]://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidel=
[email-masked]

--0000000000000a0ee30600273355
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Actually Bob, as an aside, the thread on the handle is ac=
tually 12- 32 ... the only 12 - 32 thread on a Healey as far as I&#39;m=C2=
=A0 aware.<div dir=3D"auto">I know you absolutely couldn&#39;t continue wit=
h life as is without that incredibly important nugget of information. =F0=
=9F=A4=A3=F0=9F=A4=A3=F0=9F=A4=A3</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">M</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_=
quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon., Jul. 10, 2023, 3:03 p=
.m. Bob Spidell, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">bspidell@comca=
st.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"m=
argin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    Note the brass valve on the block is quite fragile and if it hasn&#39;t
    been &#39;exercised&#39; recently it&#39;s likely stuck and you stand a=
 good
    chance of snapping-off the small handle if you manhandle it. Moss
    has the complete valve at $150, and replacement handles are
    available. If it doesn&#39;t move easily I recommend soaking with a goo=
d
    penetrant oil and carefully applying some heat, and work it
    little-by-little (IIRC, the valve has the &#39;OFF&#39; direction embos=
sed
    in the body). A 10/32 machine screw will work as a handle in a
    pinch. IIRC, the valve has the &#39;OFF&#39; direction embossed in the =
body
    near the handle.<br>
    <br>
    Both valves on the 100s are large and robust, though still can get
    stuck due to corrosion.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div>On 7/10/2023 8:32 AM, Michael Salter
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"auto">Turning off the small valve on the side of the
        engine will only ensure that the heater is most definitely OFF
        and will have no other detrimental effects.=C2=A0
        <div dir=3D"auto">The 100 has 2 such valves, one on the head and
          one on the water pump and I always run with both turned off.
          My car is usually in winter storage before it&#39;s cold enough t=
o
          need the heater.</div>
        <div dir=3D"auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir=3D"auto">M</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class=3D"gmail_quote">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon., Jul. 10, 2023, 10:41
          a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@aut=
ox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border=
-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
          <div link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72" lang=3D"EN-GB">
            <div>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">I have a MkII BT7 with a normal
                Smith=E2=80=99s heater. Normal insofar as it never seems to=
 be
                turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">We are in our summer(?!) at the
                moment and I was wondering about turning off the tap in
                the hose from the block that leads into the cabin for
                the heater.</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Would the heater box and/or its valve
                semi-dry out and fill with a mess of rusty crud?</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Would the engine run hotter as there
                was a little less water running through the system?</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Or would I find myself basking in
                cool luxury as I tootle off to the local boozer?</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Or, most likely, none of the above,
                especially the last one?!</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">I did take the car on quite a long
                trip the other day (Le Mans Classic!!) and, once the
                heat had soaked through the insulation, we were quite
                warm=E2=80=A6.</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">The more I think about this, the less
                I like the idea of turning that tap off=E2=80=A6..</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">The tap does work, before you all
                shout at once!</p>
              <p class=3D"MsoNormal">Simon</p>
            </div>
          </div>
          _______________________________________________<br>
          Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=
=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net=
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      <br>
      <fieldset></fieldset>
      <pre>_______________________________________________
nk" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>

Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" target=3D"_blank=
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<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferr=
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[email-masked]

--===============8575339862806776522==--

---

From: BJ8Healeys via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2023 17:05:34 -0400

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I live in the sunny South (90=C2=B0 F and 90% relative humidity today) =
and I used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =E2=80=9Cauxiliary =
engine cooler=E2=80=9D; but I no longer have to use  it that way since I =
had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190=C2=B0 =
sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.

=20

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

=20

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Bob =
Spidell
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2023 1:36 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

=20

Ah, good point Kees. On a road trip coming out of Death Valley on a =
115degF day climbing the Panamint Mountains my BJ8's temp started =
climbing rapidly towards 212. I turned the heater on full blast--not =
fun, but better than boiling. Temp held steady at 212 until we crested =
the mountains and it started to come down and we were back to just =
miserable.

I suppose you could close it if you don't expect hot weather and, if you =
think of it, turn it on if the weather turns.

Do not turn it off. It might save you from overheating the engine on a =
very hot day or fan failure. When you see the coolant temperature rise =
expectantly turn on the heating with the heater fan full blast for some =
extra cooling of the engine (but over heating the driver and SWMBO). =
However check first if there is any coolant in the system at all.
Kees Oudesluijs

I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith=E2=80=99s heater. Normal insofar =
as it never seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON 100%.

We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and I was wondering about turning =
off the tap in the hose from the block that leads into the cabin for the =
heater.

Would the heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out and fill with a mess =
of rusty crud?

Would the engine run hotter as there was a little less water running =
through the system?

Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I tootle off to the =
local boozer?

I did take the car on quite a long trip the other day (Le Mans =
Classic!!) and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation, we were =
quite warm=E2=80=A6.

The more I think about this, the less I like the idea of turning that =
tap off=E2=80=A6..

Simon

=20

=20

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<div class=3DSection1>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I live in the sunny =
South (90</span><span
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>=C2=B0</span><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'> F =
and 90% relative
humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =
=E2=80=9Cauxiliary engine
cooler=E2=80=9D; but I no longer have to use=C2=A0 it that way since I =
had a modern core
installed in the radiator and added a 190</span><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>=C2=B0</span><span
style=3D'color:#1F497D'> sleeved thermostat that I bought from =
Kees.<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Steve =
Byers<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>HBJ8L/36666<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>BJ8 =
Registry<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>AHCA Delegate at =
Large<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Havelock, NC=C2=A0 =
USA<o:p></o:p></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><a name=3D"_MailEndCompose"><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></a></p>

<div>

<div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt =
0in 0in 0in'>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Healeys
[mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob =
Spidell<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, July 10, 2023 1:36 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Heater query<o:p></o:p></span></p>

</div>

</div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Ah, good point Kees. =
On a road
trip coming out of Death Valley on a 115degF day climbing the Panamint
Mountains my BJ8's temp started climbing rapidly towards 212. I turned =
the
heater on full blast--not fun, but better than boiling. Temp held steady =
at 212
until we crested the mountains and it started to come down and we were =
back to
just miserable.<br>
<br>
I suppose you could close it if you don't expect hot weather and, if you =
think
of it, turn it on if the weather turns.<br>
<br>
<o:p></o:p></p>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal>On 7/10/2023 8:36 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>

</div>

<blockquote style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'>

<p>Do not turn it off. It might save you from overheating the engine on =
a very
hot day or fan failure. When you see the coolant temperature rise =
expectantly
turn on the heating with the heater fan full blast for some extra =
cooling of
the engine (but over heating the driver and SWMBO). However check first =
if
there is any coolant in the system at all.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<o:p></o:p></p>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal>Op 10-7-2023 om 16:26 schreef Simon Lachlan via =
Healeys:<o:p></o:p></p>

</div>

<blockquote style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'>

<p class=3DMsoNormal>I have a MkII BT7 with a normal Smith=E2=80=99s =
heater. Normal
insofar as it never seems to be turned OFF 100% or ON =
100%.<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal>We are in our summer(?!) at the moment and I was =
wondering
about turning off the tap in the hose from the block that leads into the =
cabin
for the heater.<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal>Would the heater box and/or its valve semi-dry out =
and fill
with a mess of rusty crud?<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal>Would the engine run hotter as there was a little =
less water
running through the system?<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal>Or would I find myself basking in cool luxury as I =
tootle
off to the local boozer?<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal>Or, most likely, none of the above, especially the =
last one?!<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal>I did take the car on quite a long trip the other =
day (Le
Mans Classic!!) and, once the heat had soaked through the insulation, we =
were
quite warm=E2=80=A6.<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal>The more I think about this, the less I like the =
idea of
turning that tap off=E2=80=A6..<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal>The tap does work, before you all shout at =
once!<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal>Simon<o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times =
New Roman","serif"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>

</blockquote>

</blockquote>

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[email-masked]

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From: Simon Lachlan via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 11:05:14 +0100 boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001A_01D9B3E7.92F41FB0"

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I agree=E2=80=A6the handles are pretty frail. My heater one was solid. =
The one on the block was likewise solid and the radiator one had been =
swapped out for a simple plug.

I took them apart and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you tap the =
cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own handles which are too =
big, but they serve.

=E2=80=9CHeater valve=E2=80=9D shows the valve looking fine but jammed =
solid. =E2=80=9CFigure 3=E2=80=9D shows it after I bust the handle and =
then cleaned it all out and replaced the handle. Of course, if =
I=E2=80=99d known to tap the centre through the valve, I=E2=80=99d never =
have busticated the handle in the first place =
=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6..

(If anyone wants, I could send a few pages on how/why I did what to =
those valves).

Incidentally, I bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. Useless, =
it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the box. Quite =
recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I think it was, had them =
pictured on their site but said that they were withdrawn because they =
all leaked. See =E2=80=9CRadiator Tap=E2=80=9D.

Simon

=20

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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>I agree=E2=80=A6the handles are =
pretty frail. My heater one was solid. The one on the block was likewise =
solid and the radiator one had been swapped out for a simple =
plug.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>I took them apart and redid(?) =
them. They loosen up OK if you tap the cone shaped inner part outwards. =
I made my own handles which are too big, but they =
serve.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>=E2=80=9CHeater valve=E2=80=9D =
shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid. =E2=80=9CFigure =
3=E2=80=9D shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned it all out =
and replaced the handle. Of course, if I=E2=80=99d known to tap the =
centre through the valve, I=E2=80=99d never have busticated the handle =
in the first place =E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6..<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>(If anyone =
wants, I could send a few pages on how/why I did what to those =
valves).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Incidentally, I bought a good =
looking radiator valve on eBay. Useless, it dripped from the moment I =
screwed it in. Back in the box. Quite recently I noticed that =
Ahead4Healeys , I think it was, had them pictured on their site but said =
that they were withdrawn because they all leaked. See =E2=80=9CRadiator =
Tap=E2=80=9D.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div></=
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[email-masked]

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From: Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 13:14:17 +0200

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The leaking of the valve may improve if you lap in the cone with e.g. 
Brass Polish.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 11-7-2023 om 12:05 schreef Simon Lachlan via Healeys:
>
> I agree…the handles are pretty frail. My heater one was solid. The one 
> on the block was likewise solid and the radiator one had been swapped 
> out for a simple plug.
>
> I took them apart and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you tap the 
> cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own handles which are too 
> big, but they serve.
>
> “Heater valve” shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid. “Figure 
> 3” shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned it all out and 
> replaced the handle. Of course, if I’d known to tap the centre through 
> the valve, I’d never have busticated the handle in the first place ………..
>
> (If anyone wants, I could send a few pages on how/why I did what to 
> those valves).
>
> Incidentally, I bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. Useless, 
> it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the box. Quite 
> recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I think it was, had them 
> pictured on their site but said that they were withdrawn because they 
> all leaked. See “Radiator Tap”.
>
> Simon
>
>

-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is met AVG-antivirussoftware gecontroleerd op virussen.
www.avg.com
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    <p>The leaking of the valve may improve if you lap in the cone with
      e.g. Brass Polish.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 11-7-2023 om 12:05 schreef Simon
      Lachlan via Healeys:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
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        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">I
            agree…the handles are pretty frail. My heater one was solid.
            The one on the block was likewise solid and the radiator one
            had been swapped out for a simple plug.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">I
            took them apart and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you
            tap the cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own
            handles which are too big, but they serve.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">“Heater
            valve” shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid.
            “Figure 3” shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned
            it all out and replaced the handle. Of course, if I’d known
            to tap the centre through the valve, I’d never have
            busticated the handle in the first place ………..<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">(If
            anyone wants, I could send a few pages on how/why I did what
            to those valves).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Incidentally,
            I bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. Useless, it
            dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the box.
            Quite recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I think it
            was, had them pictured on their site but said that they were
            withdrawn because they all leaked. See “Radiator Tap”.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

</pre>
    </blockquote>

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[email-masked]

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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 06:22:41 -0700

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Yep. Also, the cone part is held in with a spring under a washer held 
with a small cotter; you can use a thicker washer to get a bit more 
'pull' on the cone. When I have one out, I put a thin smear of wheel 
bearing grease on the cone to help prevent sticking.

I got 'too-clever-by-half' once and used valve lapping compound on the 
cone; it visibly scored the cone though it still sealed. Very fine 
wet/dry sandpaper works OK.

On 7/11/2023 4:14 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
>> I agree…the handles are pretty frail. My heater one was solid. The 
>> one on the block was likewise solid and the radiator one had been 
>> replaced the handle. Of course, if I’d known to tap the centre 
>> through the valve, I’d never have busticated the handle in the first 
>> place ………..
>>
>> Incidentally, I bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. 
>> Useless, it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the box. 
>> Quite recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I think it was, had 
>> them pictured on their site but said that they were withdrawn because 
>> they all leaked. See “Radiator Tap”.
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>

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    Yep. Also, the cone part is held in with a spring under a washer
    held with a small cotter; you can use a thicker washer to get a bit
    more 'pull' on the cone. When I have one out, I put a thin smear of
    wheel bearing grease on the cone to help prevent sticking.<br>
    <br>
    I got 'too-clever-by-half' once and used valve lapping compound on
    the cone; it visibly scored the cone though it still sealed. Very
    fine wet/dry sandpaper works OK.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/11/2023 4:14 AM, Kees Oudesluijs
      via Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <p>The leaking of the valve may improve if you lap in the cone
        with e.g. Brass Polish.<br>
        Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      </p>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 11-7-2023 om 12:05 schreef Simon
        Lachlan via Healeys:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite"
        cite="mid:[email-masked]">
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          charset=UTF-8">
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          <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">I
              agree…the handles are pretty frail. My heater one was
              solid. The one on the block was likewise solid and the
              radiator one had been swapped out for a simple plug.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">I
              took them apart and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if
              you tap the cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own
              handles which are too big, but they serve.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">“Heater
              valve” shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid.
              “Figure 3” shows it after I bust the handle and then
              cleaned it all out and replaced the handle. Of course, if
              I’d known to tap the centre through the valve, I’d never
              have busticated the handle in the first place ………..<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">(If
              anyone wants, I could send a few pages on how/why I did
              what to those valves).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Incidentally,
              I bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. Useless,
              it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the
              box. Quite recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I think
              it was, had them pictured on their site but said that they
              were withdrawn because they all leaked. See “Radiator
              Tap”.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        </div>
        <br>
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    </blockquote>
    <br>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: warthodson--- via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 13:49:42 +0000 (UTC)

--===============3724826008676830730==
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 My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be b=
oiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I=
 am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads =
to the aluminum option.=C2=A0=C2=A0Besides price what are the pros vs. cons=
 of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more effici=
ent than an aluminum radiator?Gary H
    On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <he=
[email-masked]> wrote: =20
=20
=20
I live in the sunny South (90=C2=B0 F and 90% relativehumidity today) and I=
 used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =E2=80=9Cauxiliary enginec=
ooler=E2=80=9D; but I no longer have to use=C2=A0 it that way since I had a=
 modern coreinstalled in the radiator and added a 190=C2=B0 sleeved thermos=
tat that I bought from Kees.
=20
 =C2=A0
=20
Steve Byers
=20
HBJ8L/36666
=20
BJ8 Registry
=20
AHCA Delegate at Large
=20
Havelock, NC=C2=A0 USA
=20
 =C2=A0
=20

 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp3ac0765cyahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">My 100 radiator is in need o=
f some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not re=
place some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring =
but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.&nbsp;=
&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Besides price what are t=
he pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiato=
r is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-s=
etdir=3D"false">Gary H</div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted_9797011705" class=3D"ydp70f=
1316yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys=
 via Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"ydp70f1316yiv6075989256"><div>

<div class=3D"ydp70f1316yiv6075989256Section1">

<p class=3D"ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;=
">I live in the sunny South (90</span><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;">=C2=B0=
</span><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;"> F and 90% relative
humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =E2=
=80=9Cauxiliary engine
cooler=E2=80=9D; but I no longer have to use&nbsp; it that way since I had =
a modern core
installed in the radiator and added a 190</span><span style=3D"color:#1F497=
D;">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;"> sleeved thermostat that I =
bought from Kees.</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;=
"> &nbsp;</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;=
">Steve Byers</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;=
">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;=
">BJ8 Registry</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;=
">AHCA Delegate at Large</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;=
">Havelock, NC&nbsp; USA</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><a shape=3D"rect" name=3D"_Ma=
ilEndCompose"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;"> &nbsp;</span></a></p>=20

<div id=3D"ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt99156" class=3D"ydp70f1316yiv607598925=
6yqt6620226481"><div>

<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in;">

<p class=3D"ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><br></p></div></div></div></d=
iv></div></div></div>
            </div>
        </div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

--===============3724826008676830730==--

---

From: Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 16:58:47 +0200

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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One should use what is in Europe known as "Hahn Fett" which literally 
translates from German to "Tap Grease". It is a graphite or perhaps 
molybdenum based grease which is used to lubricate all kinds of taps.
I have used it for years for domestic, industrial, automotive taps.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 11-7-2023 om 15:22 schreef Bob Spidell:
>>> I took them apart and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you tap 
>>> the cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own handles which are 
>>> too big, but they serve.
>>>
>>> “Heater valve” shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid. 
>>> “Figure 3” shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned it all 
>>> out and replaced the handle. Of course, if I’d known to tap the 
>>> centre through the valve, I’d never have busticated the handle in 
>>> the first place ………..
>>>
>>> Useless, it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the 
>>> box. Quite recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I think it was, 
>>> had them pictured on their site but said that they were withdrawn 
>>> because they all leaked. See “Radiator Tap”.
>>>
>>> Simon
>>>
>>>
>
>

-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is met AVG-antivirussoftware gecontroleerd op virussen.
www.avg.com
--------------MQyE5GwP2cq3Echw4qnSxE03
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>One should use what is in Europe known as "Hahn Fett" which
      literally translates from German to "Tap Grease". It is a graphite
      or perhaps molybdenum based grease which is used to lubricate all
      kinds of taps.<br>
      I have used it for years for domestic, industrial, automotive
      taps.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 11-7-2023 om 15:22 schreef Bob
      Spidell:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      Yep. Also, the cone part is held in with a spring under a washer
      held with a small cotter; you can use a thicker washer to get a
      bit more 'pull' on the cone. When I have one out, I put a thin
      smear of wheel bearing grease on the cone to help prevent
      sticking.<br>
      <br>
      I got 'too-clever-by-half' once and used valve lapping compound on
      the cone; it visibly scored the cone though it still sealed. Very
      fine wet/dry sandpaper works OK.<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/11/2023 4:14 AM, Kees Oudesluijs
        via Healeys wrote:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite"
        cite="mid:[email-masked]">
        <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
          charset=UTF-8">
        <p>The leaking of the valve may improve if you lap in the cone
          with e.g. Brass Polish.<br>
          Kees Oudesluijs<br>
        </p>
        <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 11-7-2023 om 12:05 schreef Simon
          Lachlan via Healeys:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote type="cite"
          cite="mid:[email-masked]">
          <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
            charset=UTF-8">
          <meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 15 (filtered
            medium)">
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          <div class="WordSection1">
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">I agree…the handles
                are pretty frail. My heater one was solid. The one on
                the block was likewise solid and the radiator one had
                been swapped out for a simple plug.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">I took them apart and
                redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you tap the cone
                shaped inner part outwards. I made my own handles which
                are too big, but they serve.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">“Heater valve” shows
                the valve looking fine but jammed solid. “Figure 3”
                shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned it all
                out and replaced the handle. Of course, if I’d known to
                tap the centre through the valve, I’d never have
                busticated the handle in the first place ………..<o:p></o:p></span></p>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">(If anyone wants, I
                could send a few pages on how/why I did what to those
                valves).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Incidentally, I
                bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. Useless,
                it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in the
                box. Quite recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys , I
                think it was, had them pictured on their site but said
                that they were withdrawn because they all leaked. See
                “Radiator Tap”.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
          </div>
          <br>
        </blockquote>
      </blockquote>
      <br>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

</pre>
    </blockquote>

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[email-masked]

--===============5665832659829757158==--

---

From: Harold Manifold <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 09:40:01 -0700

--===============2671163272918878172==

--000000000000c221b9060038c014
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Gary,

I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum
radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to
popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials.
The copper radiator fins on the original Healey radiators have much better
thermal conductivity than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum radiator
is the manufacturing process and the formability of modern aluminum. The
result is more tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about
25% more fin area than the stock radiator. The greater the fin area the
better to expel heat.

Having said that, there is a third option which is to replace the original
core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of the engine
bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum radiator. The high
efficiency core option will be more expensive than a Wizard radiator and
the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core can do
the work.

This website has a good overview: https://usradiator.com/cores

Harold

On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12=E2=80=AFAM warthodson--- via Healeys <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be
> boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored=
.
> I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which lea=
ds
> to the aluminum option.
> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator=
?
> Gary H
>
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <
> I live in the sunny South (90=C2=B0 F and 90% relative humidity today) an=
d I
> used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =E2=80=9Cauxiliary engine=
 cooler=E2=80=9D; but I no
> longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in th=
e
> radiator and added a 190=C2=B0 sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees=
.
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--000000000000c221b9060038c014
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Gary,<div><br></div><div>I had the same options when resto=
ring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum radiators extensively to see what t=
he benefits might be. Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat tran=
sfer properties of the materials. The copper radiator fins on the original =
Healey radiators have much better thermal conductivity=C2=A0than aluminum. =
The advantage of the aluminum radiator is the manufacturing=C2=A0process an=
d the formability of modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area.=
 I estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than the stock=
=C2=A0radiator. The greater the fin area the better to expel=C2=A0heat.</di=
v><div><br></div><div>Having said that, there is a third=C2=A0option which =
is to replace the original core with a high efficiency core. This retains t=
he stock look of the engine bay and will be close in performance to the alu=
minum radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more expensive=C2=
=A0than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a radiator shop tha=
t can access the core can do the work.</div><div><br></div><div>This websit=
e has a good overview:=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://usradiator.com/cores">https:=
//usradiator.com/cores</a></div><div><br></div><div>Harold</div><div><br></=
div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gm=
ail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:=
12=E2=80=AFAM warthodson--- via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox=
.team.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rg=
b(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div><div style=3D"font-family:&quot;Comic=
 Sans MS&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:16px"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr">My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation.=
 It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the dama=
ged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more=
 expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div dir=
=3D"ltr">Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does an=
yone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radia=
tor?</div><div dir=3D"ltr">Gary H</div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted_97970=
11705">
            <div style=3D"font-family:&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,Helvetica,=
Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:rgb(38,40,42)">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys=
 via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank=
">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f1316yiv60759892=
56"><div>

<div>

<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">I live in the sunny South (90</span=
><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:rgb=
(31,73,125)"> F and 90% relative
humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =E2=
=80=9Cauxiliary engine
cooler=E2=80=9D; but I no longer have to use=C2=A0 it that way since I had =
a modern core
installed in the radiator and added a 190</span><span style=3D"color:rgb(31=
,73,125)">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)"> sleeved thermo=
stat that I bought from Kees.</span></p>=20

<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)"> =C2=A0</span></p>=20

<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">Steve Byers</span></p>=20

<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>=20

<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">BJ8 Registry</span></p>=20

<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">AHCA Delegate at Large</span></p>=
=20

<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">Havelock, NC=C2=A0 USA</span></p>=
=20

<p><a shape=3D"rect" name=3D"m_-2269323291578053413__MailEndCompose"><span =
style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)"> =C2=A0</span></a></p>=20

<div id=3D"m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt99156"><div>

<div style=3D"border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-=
top:1pt solid rgb(181,196,223);padding:3pt 0in 0in">

<p><br></p></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
            </div>
        </div></div>_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"h=
ttp://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
eam.net</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 11:07:09 -0700

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Good idea; though I favor silicone products:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-0-5-oz-Silicone-Faucet-Grease-88693/203193536

On 7/11/2023 7:58 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
>> fine wet/dry sandpaper works OK.
>>
>>
>>> The leaking of the valve may improve if you lap in the cone with 
>>> e.g. Brass Polish.
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>>> the cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own handles which 
>>>> are too big, but they serve.
>>>>

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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    Good idea; though I favor silicone products:<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-0-5-oz-Silicone-Faucet-Grease-88693/203193536">https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-0-5-oz-Silicone-Faucet-Grease-88693/203193536</a><br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/11/2023 7:58 AM, Kees Oudesluijs
      via Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <p>One should use what is in Europe known as "Hahn Fett" which
        literally translates from German to "Tap Grease". It is a
        graphite or perhaps molybdenum based grease which is used to
        lubricate all kinds of taps.<br>
        I have used it for years for domestic, industrial, automotive
        taps.<br>
        Kees Oudesluijs</p>
      <p><br>
      </p>
      <p><br>
      </p>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 11-7-2023 om 15:22 schreef Bob
        Spidell:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite"
        cite="mid:[email-masked]">
        <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
          charset=UTF-8">
        Yep. Also, the cone part is held in with a spring under a washer
        held with a small cotter; you can use a thicker washer to get a
        bit more 'pull' on the cone. When I have one out, I put a thin
        smear of wheel bearing grease on the cone to help prevent
        sticking.<br>
        <br>
        I got 'too-clever-by-half' once and used valve lapping compound
        on the cone; it visibly scored the cone though it still sealed.
        Very fine wet/dry sandpaper works OK.<br>
        <br>
        <br>
        <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/11/2023 4:14 AM, Kees
          Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote type="cite"
          cite="mid:[email-masked]">
          <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
            charset=UTF-8">
          <p>The leaking of the valve may improve if you lap in the cone
            with e.g. Brass Polish.<br>
            Kees Oudesluijs<br>
          </p>
          <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 11-7-2023 om 12:05 schreef
            Simon Lachlan via Healeys:<br>
          </div>
          <blockquote type="cite"
            cite="mid:[email-masked]">
            <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
              charset=UTF-8">
            <meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 15 (filtered
              medium)">
            <style>@font-face
	{font-family:"Cambria Math";
	panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}@font-face
	{font-family:Calibri;
	panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}@font-face
	{font-family:Consolas;
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<o:shapedefaults v:ext="edit" spidmax="1026" />
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            <div class="WordSection1">
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">I agree…the handles
                  are pretty frail. My heater one was solid. The one on
                  the block was likewise solid and the radiator one had
                  been swapped out for a simple plug.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">I took them apart
                  and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you tap the
                  cone shaped inner part outwards. I made my own handles
                  which are too big, but they serve.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">“Heater valve”
                  shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid. “Figure
                  3” shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned
                  it all out and replaced the handle. Of course, if I’d
                  known to tap the centre through the valve, I’d never
                  have busticated the handle in the first place ………..<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">(If anyone wants, I
                  could send a few pages on how/why I did what to those
                  valves).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Incidentally, I
                  bought a good looking radiator valve on eBay. Useless,
                  it dripped from the moment I screwed it in. Back in
                  the box. Quite recently I noticed that Ahead4Healeys ,
                  I think it was, had them pictured on their site but
                  said that they were withdrawn because they all leaked.
                  See “Radiator Tap”.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
            </div>
            <br>
          </blockquote>
        </blockquote>
        <br>
      </blockquote>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 21:33:31 +0200

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Have it re-cored with a modern, more efficient core (more rows/tubes). 
Cleaning out a radiator is a waste of money most of the time. Aluminium 
is lighter and cheaper to manufacture but not as durable and usually 
cannot be repaired. Thermal conductivity is also not as good as 
copper/brass. Most of all it does not look right.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 11-7-2023 om 15:49 schreef warthodson--- via Healeys:
> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to 
> be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or 
> re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more 
> expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
> Gary H
>
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys 
> I live in the sunny South (90°F and 90% relative humidity today) and I 
> used to refer to my BJ8’s heater as the “auxiliary engine cooler”; but 
> I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core 
> installed in the radiator and added a 190°sleeved thermostat that I 
> bought from Kees.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>

-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is met AVG-antivirussoftware gecontroleerd op virussen.
www.avg.com
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    <p>Have it re-cored with a modern, more efficient core (more
      rows/tubes). Cleaning out a radiator is a waste of money most of
      the time. Aluminium is lighter and cheaper to manufacture but not
      as durable and usually cannot be repaired. Thermal conductivity is
      also not as good as copper/brass. Most of all it does not look
      right.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 11-7-2023 om 15:49 schreef
      warthodson--- via Healeys:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div class="ydp3ac0765cyahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Comic
        Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
        <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">My 100 radiator is in need of
          some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which
          would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am
          leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive,
          which leads to the aluminum option.  </div>
        <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Besides price what are the
          pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored
          100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?</div>
        <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Gary H</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <div id="ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted_9797011705"
        class="ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted">
        <div style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial,
          sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
          <div> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys
            via Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> wrote: </div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>
            <div id="ydp70f1316yiv6075989256">
              <div>
                <div class="ydp70f1316yiv6075989256Section1">
                  <p class="ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span
                      style="color:#1F497D;">I live in the sunny South
                      (90</span><span style="color:#1F497D;">°</span><span
                      style="color:#1F497D;"> F and 90% relative
                      humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8’s
                      heater as the “auxiliary engine
                      cooler”; but I no longer have to use  it that way
                      since I had a modern core
                      installed in the radiator and added a 190</span><span
                      style="color:#1F497D;">°</span><span
                      style="color:#1F497D;"> sleeved thermostat that I
                      bought from Kees.</span></p>
                  <p class="ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span
                      style="color:#1F497D;">  </span></p>
                  <p class="ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span
                      style="color:#1F497D;">Steve Byers</span></p>
                  <p class="ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span
                      style="color:#1F497D;">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>
                  <p class="ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span
                      style="color:#1F497D;">BJ8 Registry</span></p>
                  <p class="ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span
                      style="color:#1F497D;">AHCA Delegate at Large</span></p>
                  <p class="ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span
                      style="color:#1F497D;">Havelock, NC  USA</span></p>
                  <p class="ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><a
                      shape="rect" name="_MailEndCompose"
                      moz-do-not-send="true"><span
                        style="color:#1F497D;">  </span></a></p>
                  <div id="ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt99156"
                    class="ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt6620226481">
                    <div>
                      <div style="border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF
                        1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in;">
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                        </p>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                  </div>
                </div>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

</pre>
    </blockquote>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: John Spaur via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 14:10:19 -0700

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When I restored my BT7 I put in a high efficiency core, for rows I =
believe. Nothing was difficult. The top and bottom will accept the core =
and almost any competent radiator shop can do the work.

=20

One caveat, I had to flatten the inside of the rail and bend it to =
accept the wider core. Again, that was not difficult. It is hard to see =
the modification.

=20

John

62=E2=80=99 BT7

=20

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of =
Harold Manifold
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:40 AM
To: [email-masked]
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

=20

Gary,

=20

I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum =
radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to =
popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the =
materials. The copper radiator fins on the original Healey radiators =
have much better thermal conductivity than aluminum. The advantage of =
the aluminum radiator is the manufacturing process and the formability =
of modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area. I estimated a =
Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than the stock radiator. The =
greater the fin area the better to expel heat.

=20

Having said that, there is a third option which is to replace the =
original core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look =
of the engine bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum =
radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more expensive than a =
Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can =
access the core can do the work.

=20

=20

Harold

=20

=20

=20

=20

=20

On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12=E2=80=AFAM warthodson--- via Healeys =

My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be =
boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or =
re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more =
expensive, which leads to the aluminum option. =20

Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone =
know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum =
radiator?

Gary H

=20

On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys =

=20

=20

=20

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

=20

=20

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>When I restored my BT7 I put in a high efficiency core, for rows I =
believe. Nothing was difficult. The top and bottom will accept the core =
and almost any competent radiator shop can do the =
work.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>One caveat, I had to flatten the inside of the rail and bend it to =
accept the wider core. Again, that was not difficult. It is hard to see =
the modification.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>John<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>62=E2=80=99 BT7<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Harold Manifold<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:40 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Cc:</b> =
[email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Heater =
query<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Gary,<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I =
had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum =
radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to =
popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the =
materials. The copper radiator fins on the original Healey radiators =
have much better thermal conductivity&nbsp;than aluminum. The advantage =
of the aluminum radiator is the manufacturing&nbsp;process and the =
formability of modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area. I =
estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than the =
stock&nbsp;radiator. The greater the fin area the better to =
expel&nbsp;heat.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Having said that, there is a third&nbsp;option which =
is to replace the original core with a high efficiency core. This =
retains the stock look of the engine bay and will be close in =
performance to the aluminum radiator. The high efficiency core option =
will be more expensive&nbsp;than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is =
finding a radiator shop that can access the core can do the =
work.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>This website has a good overview:&nbsp;<a =
href=3D"https://usradiator.com/cores">https://usradiator.com/cores</a><o:=
p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Harold<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12=E2=80=AFAM warthodson--- via Healeys &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans MS"'>My 100 =
radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled =
out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am =
leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads =
to the aluminum option.&nbsp;&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans MS"'>Besides =
price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if =
re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum =
radiator?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans MS"'>Gary =
H<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS"'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div></div><div =
id=3D"m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted_9797011705"><div><div>=
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'>On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote: =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><div =
id=3D"m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f1316yiv6075989256"><div><div><p><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#1F497=
D'>I live in the sunny South (90=C2=B0 F and 90% relative humidity =
today) and I used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =
=E2=80=9Cauxiliary engine cooler=E2=80=9D; but I no longer have to =
use&nbsp; it that way since I had a modern core installed in the =
radiator and added a 190=C2=B0 sleeved thermostat that I bought from =
Kees.</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#1F497=
D'>&nbsp;</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#1F497=
D'>Steve Byers</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#1F497=
D'>HBJ8L/36666</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#1F497=
D'>BJ8 Registry</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#1F497=
D'>AHCA Delegate at Large</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#1F497=
D'>Havelock, NC&nbsp; USA</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p><a =
name=3D"m_-2269323291578053413__MailEndCompose"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#1F497=
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style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#26282=
A'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div =
id=3D"m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt99156"><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
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A'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>=
</div></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>__________________________________________=
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---

From: Bob Haskell via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 17:19:20 -0400

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As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to pull 
sufficient air through the radiator.

Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar

On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrote:
> Gary,
>
> I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into 
> aluminum radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. 
> Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties 
> of the materials. The copper radiator fins on the original Healey 
> radiators have much better thermal conductivity than aluminum. The 
> advantage of the aluminum radiator is the manufacturing process and 
> the formability of modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin 
> area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than 
> the stock radiator. The greater the fin area the better to expel heat.
>
> Having said that, there is a third option which is to replace the 
> original core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look 
> of the engine bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum 
> radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more expensive than 
> a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that 
> can access the core can do the work.
>
> On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12 AM warthodson--- via Healeys 
>     My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs
>     to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged
>     fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be
>     more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.
>     Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does
>     anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an
>     aluminum radiator?
>     Gary H
>
>     On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via
>     Healeys <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>
>     I live in the sunny South (90°F and 90% relative humidity today)
>     and I used to refer to my BJ8’s heater as the “auxiliary engine
>     cooler”; but I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a
>     modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190°sleeved
>     thermostat that I bought from Kees.
>
>     Steve Byers
>
>     HBJ8L/36666
>
>     BJ8 Registry
>
>     AHCA Delegate at Large
>
>     Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
--------------Ct04rtqWsiRFW8M7IwNTdlva
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to
      pull sufficient air through the radiator.<br>
    </p>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">Gary,
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked
          into aluminum radiators extensively to see what the benefits
          might be. Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat
          transfer properties of the materials. The copper radiator fins
          on the original Healey radiators have much better thermal
          conductivity than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum
          radiator is the manufacturing process and the formability of
          modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area. I
          estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than
          the stock radiator. The greater the fin area the better to
          expel heat.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Having said that, there is a third option which is to
          replace the original core with a high efficiency core. This
          retains the stock look of the engine bay and will be close in
          performance to the aluminum radiator. The high efficiency core
          option will be more expensive than a Wizard radiator and the
          difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core
          can do the work.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>This website has a good overview: <a
            href="https://usradiator.com/cores" moz-do-not-send="true"
            class="moz-txt-link-freetext">https://usradiator.com/cores</a></div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Harold</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at
          9:12 AM warthodson--- via Healeys &lt;<a
            href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true"
            class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div>
            <div style="font-family:&quot;Comic Sans
              MS&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:16px">
              <div dir="ltr">My 100 radiator is in need of some
                rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which
                would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored.
                I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more
                expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.  </div>
              <div dir="ltr">Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of
                these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator
                is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?</div>
              <div dir="ltr">Gary H</div>
              <div><br>
              </div>
            </div>
            <div
              id="m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted_9797011705">
              <div style="font-family:&quot;Helvetica
Neue&quot;,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:rgb(38,40,42)">
                <div> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT,
                  BJ8Healeys via Healeys &lt;<a
                    href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
                    moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                  wrote: </div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div>
                  <div
                    id="m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f1316yiv6075989256">
                    <div>
                      <div>
                        <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">I live in
                            the sunny South (90</span><span
                            style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">°</span><span
                            style="color:rgb(31,73,125)"> F and 90%
                            relative
                            humidity today) and I used to refer to my
                            BJ8’s heater as the “auxiliary engine
                            cooler”; but I no longer have to use  it
                            that way since I had a modern core
                            installed in the radiator and added a 190</span><span
                            style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">°</span><span
                            style="color:rgb(31,73,125)"> sleeved
                            thermostat that I bought from Kees.</span></p>
                        <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">  </span></p>
                        <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">Steve
                            Byers</span></p>
                        <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>
                        <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">BJ8
                            Registry</span></p>
                        <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">AHCA
                            Delegate at Large</span></p>
                        <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">Havelock,
                            NC  USA</span></p>
                        <p><a shape="rect"
                            name="m_-2269323291578053413__MailEndCompose"
                            moz-do-not-send="true"><span
                              style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">  </span></a></p>
                        <div
                          id="m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt99156">
                          <div>
                            <div
style="border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-top:1pt
                              solid rgb(181,196,223);padding:3pt 0in
                              0in">
                              <p><br>
                              </p>
                            </div>
                          </div>
                        </div>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                  </div>
                </div>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
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      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

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[email-masked]

--===============2517115487736656881==--

---

From: Robert Markovich via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 21:52:15 +0000 (UTC)

--===============5806997902764512939==
	boundary="----=_Part_2771748_1054217486.1689112335595"

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Certainly a good shop can recite the stock rad=C2=A0to better-than-new perf=
ormance. What I did: Put the stock rad aside and bought a Wizard unit, whic=
h follows the original shape closely, sheds heat far better as it is alloy,=
 cools better, and is made in=C2=A0upstate NY, rather than China. Cost:abou=
t $750 a couple of years ago.=C2=A0Truly a bolt-in affair. I also=C2=A0use =
an alloy=C2=A0head, performance water pump, Texas cooler fan (in red), and =
a Spaal auxiliary fan mounted in front of the radiator with a control switc=
h for sitting in traffic or waiting to enter shows. The Wizard cools so wel=
l it required a 180-degree F thermostat for proper warmup on cooler spring =
and fall mornings=E2=80=94even with the block over bored. Wizard also suppl=
ied the electric aux fan. Can=E2=80=99t recommend them enough!

Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

On Tuesday, July 11, 2023, 12:30 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys@aut=
ox.team.net> wrote:

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e/healeys

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

------=_Part_2771748_1054217486.1689112335595
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microso=
ft-com:vml" xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"><head><!--[=
if gte mso 9]><xml><o:OfficeDocumentSettings><o:AllowPNG/><o:PixelsPerInch>=
96</o:PixelsPerInch></o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--></head><bo=
dy>
Certainly a good shop can recite the stock rad&nbsp;to better-than-new perf=
ormance. What I did: Put the stock rad aside and bought a Wizard unit, whic=
h follows the original shape closely, sheds heat far better as it is alloy,=
 cools better, and is made in&nbsp;upstate NY, rather than China. Cost:abou=
t $750 a couple of years ago.&nbsp;Truly a bolt-in affair. I also&nbsp;use =
an alloy&nbsp;head, performance water pump, Texas cooler fan (in red), and =
a Spaal auxiliary fan mounted in front of the radiator with a control switc=
h for sitting in traffic or waiting to enter shows. The Wizard cools so wel=
l it required a 180-degree F thermostat for proper warmup on cooler spring =
and fall mornings=E2=80=94even with the block over bored. Wizard also suppl=
ied the electric aux fan. Can=E2=80=99t recommend them enough!<br><br><br><=
div class=3D"yahoo-signature"><a href=3D"https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-=
news-email-weather-video/id646100661">Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS=
</a><br></div><br><p class=3D"yahoo-quoted-begin" style=3D"font-size: 15px;=
 color: #715FFA; padding-top: 15px; margin-top: 0">On Tuesday, July 11, 202=
3, 12:30 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote=
:</p><blockquote class=3D"iosymail"><div id=3D"yiv9130451398"><div><div sty=
le=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" class=3D"yiv91=
30451398ydp3ac0765cyahoo-style-wrap"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr">My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation.=
 It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the dama=
ged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more=
 expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div dir=
=3D"ltr">Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does an=
yone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radia=
tor?</div><div dir=3D"ltr">Gary H</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted_9797011705" cl=
ass=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div id=3D"yiv9130451398yqtfd06599" class=3D"yiv9130451398y=
qt1357646508"><div>
                    On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys=
 via Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br clear=3D"none"></div>
                <div><br clear=3D"none"></div>
                <div><div id=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256"><div>

<div class=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256Section1">

<p class=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"c=
olor:#1F497D;">I live in the sunny South (90</span><span style=3D"color:#1F=
497D;">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;"> F and 90% relative
humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =E2=
=80=9Cauxiliary engine
cooler=E2=80=9D; but I no longer have to use&nbsp; it that way since I had =
a modern core
installed in the radiator and added a 190</span><span style=3D"color:#1F497=
D;">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:#1F497D;"> sleeved thermostat that I =
bought from Kees.</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"c=
olor:#1F497D;"> &nbsp;</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"c=
olor:#1F497D;">Steve Byers</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"c=
olor:#1F497D;">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"c=
olor:#1F497D;">BJ8 Registry</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"c=
olor:#1F497D;">AHCA Delegate at Large</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"c=
olor:#1F497D;">Havelock, NC&nbsp; USA</span></p>=20

<p class=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><a rel=3D"nofoll=
ow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" name=3D"_MailEndCompose"><span style=
=3D"color:#1F497D;"> &nbsp;</span></a></p>=20

<div id=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt99156" class=3D"yiv913045=
1398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt6620226481"><div>

<p class=3D"yiv9130451398ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><br clear=3D"non=
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0451398yqt1357646508">
        </div></div></div></div><div class=3D"yqt1357646508" id=3D"yqtfd031=
70">_______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">Suppo=
rt Team.Net <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" targ=
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--===============5806997902764512939==
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[email-masked]

--===============5806997902764512939==--

---

From: Harold Manifold <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2023 15:42:28 -0700

--===============4746271637514835348==

--000000000000fee9ca06003dd041
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Bob,

As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan will not have any
issues pulling air through the rad. The fan does little for air flow at
anything above 15 mph.

Harold

On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 2:19=E2=80=AFPM Bob Haskell <[email-masked]=
t> wrote:

> popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials=
.
> The copper radiator fins on the original Healey radiators have much bette=
r
> thermal conductivity than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum radiato=
r
> Having said that, there is a third option which is to replace the origina=
l
> core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of the engi=
ne
>> boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-core=
d.
>> I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which le=
ads
>> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiato=
r?
>> I live in the sunny South (90=C2=B0 F and 90% relative humidity today) a=
nd I
>> used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =E2=80=9Cauxiliary engin=
e cooler=E2=80=9D; but I no
>> longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed in t=
he
>> radiator and added a 190=C2=B0 sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kee=
s.
ive/healeys
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaske=
[email-masked]

--000000000000fee9ca06003dd041
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob,<div><br></div><div>As long as the side baffles are fi=
tted properly the fan will not have any issues pulling air through the rad.=
 The fan does little for air flow at anything above 15 mph.</div><div><br><=
/div><div>Harold</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr"=
 class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 2:19=E2=80=AFPM Bob Haskell &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&g=
t; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0p=
x 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    <p>As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to
      pull sufficient air through the radiator.<br>
    </p>
    <pre cols=3D"72">Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
    <div>On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"ltr">Gary,
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked
          into aluminum radiators extensively to see what the benefits
          might be. Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat
          transfer properties of the materials. The copper radiator fins
          on the original Healey radiators have much better thermal
          conductivity=C2=A0than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum
          radiator is the manufacturing=C2=A0process and the formability of
          modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area. I
          estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than
          the stock=C2=A0radiator. The greater the fin area the better to
          expel=C2=A0heat.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Having said that, there is a third=C2=A0option which is to
          replace the original core with a high efficiency core. This
          retains the stock look of the engine bay and will be close in
          performance to the aluminum radiator. The high efficiency core
          option will be more expensive=C2=A0than a Wizard radiator and the
          difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core
          can do the work.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>This website has a good overview:=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://usra=
diator.com/cores" target=3D"_blank">https://usradiator.com/cores</a></div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Harold</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class=3D"gmail_quote">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at
          9:12=E2=80=AFAM warthodson--- via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:h=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div>
            <div>
              <div dir=3D"ltr">My 100 radiator is in need of some
                rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which
                would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored.
                I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more
                expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.=C2=A0=C2=A0<=
/div>
              <div dir=3D"ltr">Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of
                these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator
                is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?</div>
              <div dir=3D"ltr">Gary H</div>
              <div><br>
              </div>
            </div>
            <div id=3D"m_1223842865389656808m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f131=
6yahoo_quoted_9797011705">
              <div>
                <div> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT,
                  BJ8Healeys via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@auto=
x.team.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                  wrote: </div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div>
                  <div id=3D"m_1223842865389656808m_-2269323291578053413ydp=
70f1316yiv6075989256">
                    <div>
                      <div>
                        <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">I live in
                            the sunny South (90</span><span style=3D"color:=
rgb(31,73,125)">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)"> F and 90=
%
                            relative
                            humidity today) and I used to refer to my
                            BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =E2=80=9Cauxiliary =
engine
                            cooler=E2=80=9D; but I no longer have to use=C2=
=A0 it
                            that way since I had a modern core
                            installed in the radiator and added a 190</span=
><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:rgb=
(31,73,125)"> sleeved
                            thermostat that I bought from Kees.</span></p>
                        <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)"> =C2=A0</sp=
an></p>
                        <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">Steve
                            Byers</span></p>
                        <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">HBJ8L/36666=
</span></p>
                        <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">BJ8
                            Registry</span></p>
                        <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">AHCA
                            Delegate at Large</span></p>
                        <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">Havelock,
                            NC=C2=A0 USA</span></p>
                        <p><a shape=3D"rect" name=3D"m_1223842865389656808_=
m_-2269323291578053413__MailEndCompose"><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)=
"> =C2=A0</span></a></p>
                        <div id=3D"m_1223842865389656808m_-2269323291578053=
413ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt99156">
                          <div>
                            <div style=3D"border-right:none;border-bottom:n=
one;border-left:none;border-top:1pt solid rgb(181,196,223);padding:3pt 0in =
0in">
                              <p><br>
                              </p>
                            </div>
                          </div>
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nk">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>

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--000000000000fee9ca06003dd041--

--===============4746271637514835348==
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[email-masked]

--===============4746271637514835348==--

---

From: Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2023 13:11:08 +0200

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============2473511525753924840==
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--------------Td00awMJBK2em2fmIqg7AjPI
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You would need a thermostatically  controlled electric fan in modern 
traffic anyway. The original fan is fairly useless nowadays.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 12-7-2023 om 00:42 schreef Harold Manifold:
> Bob,
>
> As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan will not have 
> any issues pulling air through the rad. The fan does little for air 
> flow at anything above 15 mph.
>
> Harold
>
> On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 2:19 PM Bob Haskell <[email-masked]> 
> wrote:
>
>     As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to
>     pull sufficient air through the radiator.
>
>     Bob Haskell
>>     Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat transfer
>>     properties of the materials. The copper radiator fins on the
>>     original Healey radiators have much better thermal
>>     estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than the
>>     stock radiator. The greater the fin area the better to expel heat.
>>
>>     original core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock
>>     look of the engine bay and will be close in performance to the
>>     aluminum radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more
>>     expensive than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a
>>     radiator shop that can access the core can do the work.
>>
>>         My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either
>>         needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the
>>         damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but
>>         that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum
>>         option.
>>         Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options?
>>         Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient
>>         than an aluminum radiator?
>>         Gary H
>>
>>         I live in the sunny South (90°F and 90% relative humidity
>>         today) and I used to refer to my BJ8’s heater as the
>>         “auxiliary engine cooler”; but I no longer have to use  it
>>         that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator
>>         and added a 190°sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
>>
>>         Steve Byers
>>
>>         HBJ8L/36666
>>
>>         BJ8 Registry
>>
>>         AHCA Delegate at Large
>>
>>         Havelock, NC  USA
>>
>>

-- 
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--------------Td00awMJBK2em2fmIqg7AjPI
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>You would need a thermostatically  controlled electric fan in
      modern traffic anyway. The original fan is fairly useless
      nowadays.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 12-7-2023 om 00:42 schreef Harold
      Manifold:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">Bob,
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan
          will not have any issues pulling air through the rad. The fan
          does little for air flow at anything above 15 mph.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Harold</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at
          2:19 PM Bob Haskell &lt;<a
            href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true"
            class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div>
            <p>As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is
              able to pull sufficient air through the radiator.<br>
            </p>
            <pre cols="72">Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
            <div>On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote type="cite">
              <div dir="ltr">Gary,
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div>I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I
                  looked into aluminum radiators extensively to see what
                  the benefits might be. Contrary to popular belief it
                  is not better heat transfer properties of the
                  materials. The copper radiator fins on the original
                  Healey radiators have much better thermal
                  conductivity than aluminum. The advantage of the
                  aluminum radiator is the manufacturing process and the
                  formability of modern aluminum. The result is more
                  tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has
                  about 25% more fin area than the stock radiator. The
                  greater the fin area the better to expel heat.</div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div>Having said that, there is a third option which is
                  to replace the original core with a high efficiency
                  core. This retains the stock look of the engine bay
                  and will be close in performance to the aluminum
                  radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more
                  expensive than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is
                  finding a radiator shop that can access the core can
                  do the work.</div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div>This website has a good overview: <a
                    href="https://usradiator.com/cores" target="_blank"
                    moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">https://usradiator.com/cores</a></div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div>Harold</div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
              </div>
              <br>
              <div class="gmail_quote">
                <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 11, 2023
                  at 9:12 AM warthodson--- via Healeys &lt;<a
                    href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
                    moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                  wrote:<br>
                </div>
                <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
                  0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
                  rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
                  <div>
                    <div>
                      <div dir="ltr">My 100 radiator is in need of some
                        rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled
                        out, which would not replace some of the damaged
                        fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring
                        but that would be more expensive, which leads to
                        the aluminum option.  </div>
                      <div dir="ltr">Besides price what are the pros vs.
                        cons of these options? Does anyone know if
                        re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an
                        aluminum radiator?</div>
                      <div dir="ltr">Gary H</div>
                      <div><br>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                    <div
id="m_1223842865389656808m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted_9797011705">
                      <div>
                        <div> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM
                          CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys &lt;<a
                            href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                            target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
                            class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                          wrote: </div>
                        <div><br>
                        </div>
                        <div><br>
                        </div>
                        <div>
                          <div
                            id="m_1223842865389656808m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f1316yiv6075989256">
                            <div>
                              <div>
                                <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">I
                                    live in the sunny South (90</span><span
                                    style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">°</span><span
                                    style="color:rgb(31,73,125)"> F and
                                    90% relative humidity today) and I
                                    used to refer to my BJ8’s heater as
                                    the “auxiliary engine cooler”; but I
                                    no longer have to use  it that way
                                    since I had a modern core installed
                                    in the radiator and added a 190</span><span
                                    style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">°</span><span
                                    style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">
                                    sleeved thermostat that I bought
                                    from Kees.</span></p>
                                <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">  </span></p>
                                <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">Steve
                                    Byers</span></p>
                                <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>
                                <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">BJ8
                                    Registry</span></p>
                                <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">AHCA
                                    Delegate at Large</span></p>
                                <p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">Havelock,
                                    NC  USA</span></p>
                                <p><a shape="rect"
                                    name="m_1223842865389656808_m_-2269323291578053413__MailEndCompose"
                                    moz-do-not-send="true"><span
                                      style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">  </span></a></p>
                                <div
id="m_1223842865389656808m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt99156">
                                  <div>
                                    <div
style="border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-top:1pt
                                      solid rgb(181,196,223);padding:3pt
                                      0in 0in">
                                      <p><br>
                                      </p>
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Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href="http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: "m.g.sharp--- via Healeys" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2023 07:19:05 -0400

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I agree with Kees; over here it is called plumber=E2=80=99s grease and I =
have used it for years on both the brass taps on British cars and the =
fuel taps on my old bikes, which are or identical design.  As Kees says, =
it works a treat.  It is available at most hardware outlets that sell =
plumbing fittings.

=20

Mirek

=20

From: Healeys <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Kees =
Oudesluijs via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 10:59 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

=20

One should use what is in Europe known as "Hahn Fett" which literally =
translates from German to "Tap Grease". It is a graphite or perhaps =
molybdenum based grease which is used to lubricate all kinds of taps.
I have used it for years for domestic, industrial, automotive taps.
Kees Oudesluijs

=20

=20

Yep. Also, the cone part is held in with a spring under a washer held =
with a small cotter; you can use a thicker washer to get a bit more =
'pull' on the cone. When I have one out, I put a thin smear of wheel =
bearing grease on the cone to help prevent sticking.

I got 'too-clever-by-half' once and used valve lapping compound on the =
cone; it visibly scored the cone though it still sealed. Very fine =
wet/dry sandpaper works OK.

The leaking of the valve may improve if you lap in the cone with e.g. =
Brass Polish.
Kees Oudesluijs

Simon

=20

=20

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
=20

=20

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<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&=
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Virusvrij. =
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pre
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--></style><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-CA link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>I agree with Kees; over here it is =
called plumber=E2=80=99s grease and I have used it for years on both the =
brass taps on British cars and the fuel taps on my old bikes, which are =
or identical design.=C2=A0 As Kees says, it works a treat.=C2=A0 It is =
available at most hardware outlets that sell plumbing =
fittings.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><di=
v style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US> Healeys =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Kees =
Oudesluijs via Healeys<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July 11, 2023 10:59 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] =
Heater query<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p>One should use what is in =
Europe known as &quot;Hahn Fett&quot; which literally translates from =
German to &quot;Tap Grease&quot;. It is a graphite or perhaps molybdenum =
based grease which is used to lubricate all kinds of taps.<br>I have =
used it for years for domestic, industrial, automotive taps.<br>Kees =
Oudesluijs<o:p></o:p></p><p><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Op 11-7-2023 om 15:22 schreef Bob =
Spidell:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Yep. Also, the cone part is held in with =
a spring under a washer held with a small cotter; you can use a thicker =
washer to get a bit more 'pull' on the cone. When I have one out, I put =
a thin smear of wheel bearing grease on the cone to help prevent =
sticking.<br><br>I got 'too-clever-by-half' once and used valve lapping =
compound on the cone; it visibly scored the cone though it still sealed. =
Very fine wet/dry sandpaper works OK.<br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 7/11/2023 4:14 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p>The leaking of the =
valve may improve if you lap in the cone with e.g. Brass Polish.<br>Kees =
Oudesluijs<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Op 11-7-2023 om 12:05 =
schreef Simon Lachlan via Healeys:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>I =
agree=E2=80=A6the handles are pretty frail. My heater one was solid. The =
one on the block was likewise solid and the radiator one had been =
swapped out for a simple plug.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>I took them =
apart and redid(?) them. They loosen up OK if you tap the cone shaped =
inner part outwards. I made my own handles which are too big, but they =
serve.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>=E2=80=9CHeater valve=E2=80=9D =
shows the valve looking fine but jammed solid. =E2=80=9CFigure =
3=E2=80=9D shows it after I bust the handle and then cleaned it all out =
and replaced the handle. Of course, if I=E2=80=99d known to tap the =
centre through the valve, I=E2=80=99d never have busticated the handle =
in the first place =E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6..</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>(If anyone =
wants, I could send a few pages on how/why I did what to those =
valves).</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Incidentally, I bought a good =
looking radiator valve on eBay. Useless, it dripped from the moment I =
screwed it in. Back in the box. Quite recently I noticed that =
Ahead4Healeys , I think it was, had them pictured on their site but said =
that they were withdrawn because they all leaked. See =E2=80=9CRadiator =
Tap=E2=80=9D.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Simon</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></blockquote></blockquote><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><pre>_______________________=
________________________<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Support Team.Net <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
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ive/healeys</a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><o:p></o=
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Chris Scholz via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2023 11:22:13 +0000

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[email-masked]

--===============2673710800395651914==--

---

From: Robert Markovich via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2023 12:32:51 +0000 (UTC)

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Agree. Especially without a shroud=C2=A0

On Wednesday, July 12, 2023, 7:39 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys@=
autox.team.net> wrote:

=20
You would need a thermostatically=C2=A0 controlled electric fan in modern t=
raffic anyway. The original fan is fairly useless nowadays.
 Kees Oudesluijs
=20
 Op 12-7-2023 om 00:42 schreef Harold Manifold:
 =20
=20
Bob,=20
  As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan will not have any=
 issues pulling air through the rad. The fan does little for air flow at an=
ything above 15 mph.=20
  Harold =20
  On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 2:19=E2=80=AFPM Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.=
net> wrote:
 =20
 =20
As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to pull suffi=
cient air through the radiator.
=20
 Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wro=
te:
 =20
 Gary,=20
  I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum =
radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to popula=
r belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials. The co=
pper radiator fins on the original Healey radiators have much better therma=
l conductivity=C2=A0than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum radiator i=
s the manufacturing=C2=A0process and the formability of modern aluminum. Th=
e result is more tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about=
 25% more fin area than the stock=C2=A0radiator. The greater the fin area t=
he better to expel=C2=A0heat.=20
  Having said that, there is a third=C2=A0option which is to replace the or=
iginal core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of the=
 engine bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum radiator. The =
high efficiency core option will be more expensive=C2=A0than a Wizard radia=
tor and the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core =
can do the work.=20
  This website has a good overview:=C2=A0https://usradiator.com/cores=20
  Harold=20
 =20
 =20
 =20
  =20
  On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12=E2=80=AFAM warthodson--- via Healeys <healey=
[email-masked]> wrote:
 =20
   My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be=
 boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored.=
 I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which lead=
s to the aluminum option.=C2=A0=C2=A0 Besides price what are the pros vs. c=
ons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more eff=
icient than an aluminum radiator? Gary H=20
      On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <=
[email-masked]> wrote: =20
 =20
     =20
I live in the sunny South (90=C2=B0 F and 90% relative humidity today) and =
I used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =E2=80=9Cauxiliary engine=
 cooler=E2=80=9D; but I no longer have to use=C2=A0 it that way since I had=
 a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190=C2=B0 sleeved ther=
mostat that I bought from Kees.
=20
 =C2=A0
=20
Steve Byers
=20
HBJ8L/36666
=20
BJ8 Registry
=20
AHCA Delegate at Large
=20
Havelock, NC=C2=A0 USA
=20
 =C2=A0
   =20

=20
           _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75
=20
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve/healeys
=20
 [email-masked]
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
=20
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold=
@telus.net
=20
=20
 =20
  _______________________________________________

[email-masked]

@earthlink.net

=20
 =20
 =20
  _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.t=
eam.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeysHealeys@auto=
x.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage:=
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]=20

|  | Virusvrij.www.avg.com |

[email-masked]

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microso=
ft-com:vml" xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"><head><!--[=
if gte mso 9]><xml><o:OfficeDocumentSettings><o:AllowPNG/><o:PixelsPerInch>=
96</o:PixelsPerInch></o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--></head><bo=
dy>
Agree. Especially without a shroud&nbsp;<br><br><br><div class=3D"yahoo-sig=
nature"><a href=3D"https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-vid=
eo/id646100661" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">Sent from the=
 all new AOL app for iOS</a><br></div><br><p class=3D"yahoo-quoted-begin" s=
tyle=3D"font-size: 15px; color: #715FFA; padding-top: 15px; margin-top: 0">=
On Wednesday, July 12, 2023, 7:39 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys &lt;heale=
[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</p><blockquote class=3D"iosymail"><div id=3D"y=
iv0440412576"><div>
    <p>You would need a thermostatically&nbsp; controlled electric fan in
      modern traffic anyway. The original fan is fairly useless
      nowadays.<br clear=3D"none">
      Kees Oudesluijs<br clear=3D"none">
    </p>
    <div id=3D"yiv0440412576yqtfd96586" class=3D"yiv0440412576yqt6452103304=
"><div class=3D"yiv0440412576moz-cite-prefix">Op 12-7-2023 om 00:42 schreef=
 Harold
      Manifold:<br clear=3D"none">
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
      </blockquote></div></div><div id=3D"yiv0440412576yqtfd36538" class=3D=
"yiv0440412576yqt6452103304"></div><div><div id=3D"yiv0440412576yqtfd15143"=
 class=3D"yiv0440412576yqt6452103304"><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob,
        <div><br clear=3D"none">
        </div>
        <div>As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan
          will not have any issues pulling air through the rad. The fan
          does little for air flow at anything above 15 mph.</div>
        <div><br clear=3D"none">
        </div>
        <div>Harold</div>
      </div>
      <br clear=3D"none">
      <div class=3D"yiv0440412576gmail_quote">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"yiv0440412576gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 11, =
2023 at
          2:19=E2=80=AFPM Bob Haskell &lt;<a shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mail=
to:[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=
=3D"yiv0440412576moz-txt-link-freetext" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer=
 noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
        </div>
        <blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid=
 rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class=3D"yiv0440412576gmail_quote">
          <div>
            <p>As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is
              able to pull sufficient air through the radiator.<br clear=3D=
"none">
            </p>
            <pre>Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
            <div>On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrote:<br clear=3D"none"=
            </div>
            <blockquote type=3D"cite">
              <div dir=3D"ltr">Gary,
                <div><br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <div>I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I
                  looked into aluminum radiators extensively to see what
                  the benefits might be. Contrary to popular belief it
                  is not better heat transfer properties of the
                  materials. The copper radiator fins on the original
                  Healey radiators have much better thermal
                  conductivity&nbsp;than aluminum. The advantage of the
                  aluminum radiator is the manufacturing&nbsp;process and t=
he
                  formability of modern aluminum. The result is more
                  tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has
                  about 25% more fin area than the stock&nbsp;radiator. The
                  greater the fin area the better to expel&nbsp;heat.</div>
                <div><br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <div>Having said that, there is a third&nbsp;option which i=
s
                  to replace the original core with a high efficiency
                  core. This retains the stock look of the engine bay
                  and will be close in performance to the aluminum
                  radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more
                  expensive&nbsp;than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty =
is
                  finding a radiator shop that can access the core can
                  do the work.</div>
                <div><br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <div>This website has a good overview:&nbsp;<a shape=3D"rec=
t" href=3D"https://usradiator.com/cores" class=3D"yiv0440412576moz-txt-link=
-freetext" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">https://usradiator=
.com/cores</a></div>
                <div><br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <div>Harold</div>
                <div><br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <div><br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <div><br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <div><br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
              </div>
              <br clear=3D"none">
              <div class=3D"yiv0440412576gmail_quote">
                <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"yiv0440412576gmail_attr">On Tue, =
Jul 11, 2023
                  at 9:12=E2=80=AFAM warthodson--- via Healeys &lt;<a shape=
=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:healeys@=
autox.team.net" class=3D"yiv0440412576moz-txt-link-freetext" target=3D"_bla=
nk" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                  wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1=
px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class=3D"yiv0440412576gmail_qu=
ote">
                  <div>
                    <div>
                      <div dir=3D"ltr">My 100 radiator is in need of some
                        rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled
                        out, which would not replace some of the damaged
                        fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring
                        but that would be more expensive, which leads to
                        the aluminum option.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>
                      <div dir=3D"ltr">Besides price what are the pros vs.
                        cons of these options? Does anyone know if
                        re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an
                        aluminum radiator?</div>
                      <div dir=3D"ltr">Gary H</div>
                      <div><br clear=3D"none">
                      </div>
                    </div>
                    <div id=3D"yiv0440412576m_1223842865389656808m_-2269323=
291578053413ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted_9797011705">
                      <div>
                        <div> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM
                          CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys &lt;<a shape=3D"rect"=
 ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
m.net" class=3D"yiv0440412576moz-txt-link-freetext" target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                          wrote: </div>
                        <div><br clear=3D"none">
                        </div>
                        <div><br clear=3D"none">
                        </div>
                        <div>
                          <div id=3D"yiv0440412576m_1223842865389656808m_-2=
269323291578053413ydp70f1316yiv6075989256">
                            <div>
                              <div>
                                <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">I
                                    live in the sunny South (90</span><span=
 style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,7=
3,125);"> F and
                                    90% relative humidity today) and I
                                    used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heate=
r as
                                    the =E2=80=9Cauxiliary engine cooler=E2=
=80=9D; but I
                                    no longer have to use&nbsp; it that way
                                    since I had a modern core installed
                                    in the radiator and added a 190</span><=
span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:rgb(=
31,73,125);">
                                    sleeved thermostat that I bought
                                    from Kees.</span></p>
                                <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);"> &=
nbsp;</span></p>
                                <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">St=
eve
                                    Byers</span></p>
                                <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">HB=
J8L/36666</span></p>
                                <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">BJ=
8
                                    Registry</span></p>
                                <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">AH=
CA
                                    Delegate at Large</span></p>
                                <p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">Ha=
velock,
                                    NC&nbsp; USA</span></p>
                                <p><a shape=3D"rect" name=3D"m_122384286538=
9656808_m_-2269323291578053413__MailEndCompose" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"no=
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</body></html>
------=_Part_3005987_284679821.1689165171566--

--===============1767529107718965788==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============1767529107718965788==--

---

From: Robert Markovich via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2023 13:33:51 +0000 (UTC)

--===============7407604850447296763==
	boundary="----=_Part_3022194_1597883639.1689168831341"

------=_Part_3022194_1597883639.1689168831341
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Just as it should work!

On Wednesday, July 12, 2023, 8:47 AM, Chris Scholz via Healeys <healeys@aut=
ox.team.net> wrote:

I have the aluminum dual pass wizard radiator from New York also in my 100-=
6 and love it. =C2=A0I have a single electric 15=E2=80=9D spal fan, no vent=
s in the hood and I am cooling an aluminum 5.7L LS1 with 350hp. =C2=A0Never=
 overheats and idles thru parades on 100 degree days and never goes over 19=
5 degrees. =C2=A0

Sent from my iPhoneChris Scholz OD

On Jul 12, 2023, at 2:59 AM, Harold Manifold <[email-masked]> wrote:

=EF=BB=BFBob,
As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan will not have any i=
ssues pulling air through the rad. The fan does little for air flow at anyt=
hing above 15 mph.
Harold
On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 2:19=E2=80=AFPM Bob Haskell <[email-masked]=
t> wrote:

Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrarOn 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrot=
e:

Gary,
I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum ra=
diators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to popular =
belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials. The copp=
er radiator fins on the original Healey radiators have much better thermal =
conductivity=C2=A0than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum radiator is =
the manufacturing=C2=A0process and the formability of modern aluminum. The =
result is more tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about 2=
5% more fin area than the stock=C2=A0radiator. The greater the fin area the=
 better to expel=C2=A0heat.
Having said that, there is a third=C2=A0option which is to replace the orig=
inal core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of the e=
ngine bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum radiator. The hi=
gh efficiency core option will be more expensive=C2=A0than a Wizard radiato=
r and the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core ca=
n do the work.
This website has a good overview:=C2=A0https://usradiator.com/cores
Harold

On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12=E2=80=AFAM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys@=
autox.team.net> wrote:

My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be bo=
iled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I =
am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads t=
o the aluminum option.=C2=A0=C2=A0Besides price what are the pros vs. cons =
of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficie=
nt than an aluminum radiator?Gary H
On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healey=
[email-masked]> wrote:

=C2=A0

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC=C2=A0 USA

=C2=A0

[email-masked]

telus.net

[email-masked]

@earthlink.net

[email-masked]

visioncenterpc.com

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

------=_Part_3022194_1597883639.1689168831341
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microso=
ft-com:vml" xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"><head><!--[=
if gte mso 9]><xml><o:OfficeDocumentSettings><o:AllowPNG/><o:PixelsPerInch>=
96</o:PixelsPerInch></o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--></head><bo=
dy>
Just as it should work!<br><br><br><div class=3D"yahoo-signature"><a href=
=3D"https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661"=
>Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS</a><br></div><br><p class=3D"yahoo-q=
uoted-begin" style=3D"font-size: 15px; color: #715FFA; padding-top: 15px; m=
argin-top: 0">On Wednesday, July 12, 2023, 8:47 AM, Chris Scholz via Healey=
s &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</p><blockquote class=3D"iosymail"><=
div id=3D"yiv4909641555"><div>
I have the aluminum dual pass wizard radiator from New York also in my 100-=
6 and love it. &nbsp;I have a single electric 15=E2=80=9D spal fan, no vent=
s in the hood and I am cooling an aluminum 5.7L LS1 with 350hp. &nbsp;Never=
 overheats and idles thru parades on 100 degree days
 and never goes over 195 degrees. &nbsp;<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone
<div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div id=3D"yiv4909641555yqtfd01448" class=3D"yiv4909641555=
yqt8013912022"><br clear=3D"none">
<blockquote type=3D"cite">On Jul 12, 2023, at 2:59 AM, Harold Manifold &lt;=
[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
</blockquote>
</div></div><div id=3D"yiv4909641555yqtfd30104" class=3D"yiv4909641555yqt80=
13912022">
</div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div id=3D"yiv4909641555yqtfd38984" class=
=3D"yiv4909641555yqt8013912022">
</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div id=3D"yiv4909641555yqtfd39403" class=3D"yiv4909=
641555yqt8013912022">=EF=BB=BF
<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob,
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan will not have =
any issues pulling air through the rad. The fan does little for air flow at=
 anything above 15 mph.</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Harold</div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv4909641555gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"yiv4909641555gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at =
2:19=E2=80=AFPM Bob Haskell &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" sha=
pe=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote=
:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class=3D"yiv4909641555gmail_quote">
<div>
<p>As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to pull su=
fficient air through the radiator.<br clear=3D"none">
</p>
<pre>Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
<div>On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Gary,
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into alumin=
um radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to pop=
ular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials. The=
 copper radiator fins on the original
 Healey radiators have much better thermal conductivity&nbsp;than aluminum.=
 The advantage of the aluminum radiator is the manufacturing&nbsp;process a=
nd the formability of modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area=
. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about
 25% more fin area than the stock&nbsp;radiator. The greater the fin area t=
he better to expel&nbsp;heat.</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Having said that, there is a third&nbsp;option which is to replace the=
 original core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of =
the engine bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum radiator. T=
he high efficiency core option will be
 more expensive&nbsp;than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a=
 radiator shop that can access the core can do the work.</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>This website has a good overview:&nbsp;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener nor=
eferrer" shape=3D"rect" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://usradiator.com/co=
res">https://usradiator.com/cores</a></div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Harold</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv4909641555gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"yiv4909641555gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at =
9:12=E2=80=AFAM warthodson--- via Healeys &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener n=
oreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</=
a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class=3D"yiv4909641555gmail_quote">
<div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It eith=
er needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins=
, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensi=
ve, which leads to the aluminum option.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options?=
 Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an alumin=
um radiator?</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Gary H</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"yiv4909641555m_1223842865389656808m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f13=
16yahoo_quoted_9797011705">
<div>
<div>On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys &l=
t;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"yiv4909641555m_1223842865389656808m_-2269323291578053413ydp70f13=
16yiv6075989256">
<div>
<div>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">I live in the sunny South (90</spa=
n><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:r=
gb(31,73,125);"> F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to =
my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =E2=80=9Cauxiliary engine cooler=E2=80=9D;
 but I no longer have to use&nbsp; it that way since I had a modern core in=
stalled in the radiator and added a 190</span><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,7=
3,125);">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);"> sleeved thermo=
stat that I bought from Kees.</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">Steve Byers</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">BJ8 Registry</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">AHCA Delegate at Large</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125);">Havelock, NC&nbsp; USA</span></p>
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[email-masked]

--===============7407604850447296763==--

---

From: Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 13:43:55 +0000

--===============1959135011782396841==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_DM4PR11MB72086C26A6DBA5424605B936B837ADM4PR11MB7208namp_"

--_000_DM4PR11MB72086C26A6DBA5424605B936B837ADM4PR11MB7208namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil c=
oolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored =
with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower i=
s thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator has b=
een in for at least 15-20 years.  I have driven under almost every conditio=
n- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engin=
e temps stay where they should be.  Strongly recommend this option, especia=
lly since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock or=
iginal and it has worked to perfection.
Len B
________________________________
From: Healeys <[email-masked]> on behalf of warthodson--- v=
ia Healeys <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>; BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.=
rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be bo=
iled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I =
am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads t=
o the aluminum option.
Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know=
 if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
Gary H

I live in the sunny South (90=B0 F and 90% relative humidity today) and I u=
sed to refer to my BJ8=92s heater as the =93auxiliary engine cooler=94; but=
 I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core installed i=
n the radiator and added a 190=B0 sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kee=
s.

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

--_000_DM4PR11MB72086C26A6DBA5424605B936B837ADM4PR11MB7208namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DWindows-1=
252">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"elementToProof">
I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil c=
oolers, &quot;Texas fans&quot;, and electric fans. I finally had my origina=
l recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but t=
he lower is thicker, which made installation
 a little challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years. &=
nbsp;I have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, hi=
gh speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they shoul=
d be. &nbsp;Strongly recommend this option,
 especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator from the =
stock original and it has worked to perfection. &nbsp;</div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" class=3D"elementToProof">
Len B</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size: 11pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><b>From:</b> Healeys &lt;heal=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys &lt;h=
[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> [email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; BJ8Healey=
s &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Heater query</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div class=3D"x_ydp3ac0765cyahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:Comic San=
s MS,sans-serif; font-size:16px">
<div></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">My 100 radiator is in need of some r=
ehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace so=
me of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that=
 would be more expensive, which leads
 to the aluminum option.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Besides price what are the pros vs. =
cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more ef=
ficient than an aluminum radiator?</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Gary H</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"x_ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted_9797011705" class=3D"x_ydp70f1316yahoo_=
quoted">
<div style=3D"font-family: &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, Helvetica, Arial, sa=
ns-serif; font-size: 13px; color: rgb(38, 40, 42);">
<div>On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys &l=
t;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256">
<div>
<div class=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256Section1">
<p class=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: rgb(3=
1, 73, 125);">I live in the sunny South (90</span><span style=3D"color: rgb=
(31, 73, 125);">=B0</span><span style=3D"color: rgb(31, 73, 125);"> F and 9=
0% relative humidity today) and I used to
 refer to my BJ8=92s heater as the =93auxiliary engine cooler=94; but I no =
longer have to use&nbsp; it that way since I had a modern core installed in=
 the radiator and added a 190</span><span style=3D"color: rgb(31, 73, 125);=
">=B0</span><span style=3D"color: rgb(31, 73, 125);">
 sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.</span></p>
<p class=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: rgb(3=
1, 73, 125);">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p class=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: rgb(3=
1, 73, 125);">Steve Byers</span></p>
<p class=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: rgb(3=
1, 73, 125);">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>
<p class=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: rgb(3=
1, 73, 125);">BJ8 Registry</span></p>
<p class=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: rgb(3=
1, 73, 125);">AHCA Delegate at Large</span></p>
<p class=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color: rgb(3=
1, 73, 125);">Havelock, NC&nbsp; USA</span></p>
<p class=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><a shape=3D"rect" name=3D"x=
__MailEndCompose"><span style=3D"color: rgb(31, 73, 125);">&nbsp;</span></a=
></p>
<div id=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt99156" class=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv60759=
89256yqt6620226481">
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none; border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt; padding:3.0pt 0i=
n 0in 0in">
<p class=3D"x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><br>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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</div>
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</body>
</html>

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[email-masked]

--===============1959135011782396841==--

---

From: David Nock BCS via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 09:08:07 -0700

--===============5719542577199630391==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0063_01D9B569.8BB97140"

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	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We have been dealing with the British  Car industry for only about 70 =
years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer in =
the 70s and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing =
strictly British Cars the entire time. =20

WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up until =
about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high efficency =
radiator core in all our radiators. We would not paint the cores, change =
the necks to a short neck allowing a higher pressure cap, correct =
thermostats, installed air ducts correctly. All of these things helped.=20

I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my =
own personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a =
highly upgraded motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, perfomance =
MSD ignition and much more. I was continually having hot running =
problems here in the central valley of California with the summer temps =
always in the high 90s and upto 110.=20

I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium =
radiator, with 2 rows of  1=94 tubes. The original Healey radiator is a =
2 row core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing is =
a 3 row core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially gave =
us more tube to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.

Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube to =
fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.

Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and =
immediately the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees =
depending on the day. However I still had an issue with slow traffic =
speeds. It was much better  but I wanted to make it better. So I =
installed a pusher fan on a thermostat set at 180 degrees, and now all =
the heating issues are gone.

So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and tubes, =
the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test in my =
car proved to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.

David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys=20
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM
To: [email-masked]=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query

I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried =
oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original =
recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but =
the lower is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The =
radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.  I have driven under =
almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) =
traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they should be.  Strongly =
recommend this option, especially since it almost impossible to =
distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it has worked to =
perfection. =20
Len B

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------

From: Healeys <[email-masked]> on behalf of =
warthodson--- via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>; BJ8Healeys =
<[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query=20

On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys =
<[email-masked]> wrote:=20

I live in the sunny South (90=B0 F and 90% relative humidity today) and =
I used to refer to my BJ8=92s heater as the =93auxiliary engine =
cooler=94; but I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern =
core installed in the radiator and added a 190=B0 sleeved thermostat =
that I bought from Kees.

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
_______________________________________________

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

------=_NextPart_000_0063_01D9B569.8BB97140
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3DWindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<STYLE style=3D"DISPLAY: none"=20
type=3Dtext/css> P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} </STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>We have been dealing with the British&nbsp; Car industry for only =
about 70=20
years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer in =
the 70s=20
and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing strictly =
British Cars=20
the entire time.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up =
until=20
about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high efficency =
radiator core=20
in all our radiators. We would not paint the cores, change the necks to =
a short=20
neck allowing a higher pressure cap, correct thermostats, installed air =
ducts=20
correctly. All of these things helped. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in =
my own=20
personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a highly =
upgraded=20
motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, perfomance MSD ignition and =
much=20
more. I was continually having hot running problems here in the central =
valley=20
of California with the summer temps always in the high 90s and upto 110. =
</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium=20
radiator, with 2 rows of&nbsp; 1=94 tubes. The original Healey radiator =
is a 2 row=20
core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing is a 3 =
row core=20
with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially gave us more tube =
to fin=20
area as well as more fin to air surface.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more =
tube to=20
fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and =
immediately=20
the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees depending on =
the day.=20
However I still had an issue with slow traffic speeds. It was much =
better&nbsp;=20
but I wanted to make it better. So I installed a pusher fan on a =
thermostat set=20
at 180 degrees, and now all the heating issues are gone.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and =
tubes,=20
the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test in my =
car proved=20
to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>David Nock<BR>British Car=20
Specialists<BR>209-948-8767<BR>www.britishcarspecialists.com</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
title=[email-masked]>Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]>[email-masked]</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] Heater query</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV class=3DelementToProof=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">I=20
do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil =
coolers,=20
"Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored with =
a core=20
that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower is =
thicker, which=20
made installation a little challenging. The radiator has been in for at =
least=20
15-20 years.&nbsp; I have driven under almost every condition- very hot =
ambient=20
temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay =
where they=20
should be.&nbsp; Strongly recommend this option, especially since it =
almost=20
impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it has =
worked=20
to perfection.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV id=3Dappendonsend></DIV>
<DIV class=3DelementToProof=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Len=20
B</DIV>
<HR tabIndex=3D-1 style=3D"WIDTH: 98%; DISPLAY: inline-block">

<DIV id=3DdivRplyFwdMsg dir=3Dltr><FONT style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: =
rgb(0,0,0)"=20
face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif"><B>From:</B> Healeys=20
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of warthodson--- via =
Healeys=20
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, July 11, 2023 =
9:49=20
AM<BR><B>To:</B> [email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]&gt;;=20
BJ8Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] =
Heater=20
query</FONT>=20
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV class=3Dx_ydp3ac0765cyahoo-style-wrap=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: comic sans ms,sans-serif">
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr data-setdir=3D"false">My 100 radiator is in need of some=20
rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not =
replace some=20
of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that =
would=20
be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr data-setdir=3D"false">Besides price what are the pros vs. =
cons of=20
these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more =
efficient than=20
an aluminum radiator?</DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr data-setdir=3D"false">Gary H</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV id=3Dx_ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted_9797011705 =
class=3Dx_ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 13px; FONT-FAMILY: "Helvetica Neue", helvetica, =
arial, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(38,40,42)'>
<DIV>On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys =

&lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote: </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV id=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256>
<DIV>
<DIV class=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256Section1>
<P class=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D"COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)">I live in the sunny South =
(90</SPAN><SPAN=20
style=3D"COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)">=B0</SPAN><SPAN style=3D"COLOR: =
rgb(31,73,125)"> F and=20
90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8=92s heater as =
the=20
=93auxiliary engine cooler=94; but I no longer have to use&nbsp; it that =
way since I=20
had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190</SPAN><SPAN=20
style=3D"COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)">=B0</SPAN><SPAN style=3D"COLOR: =
rgb(31,73,125)">=20
sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.</SPAN></P>
<P class=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D"COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)"></SPAN>&nbsp;</P>
<P class=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D"COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)">Steve Byers</SPAN></P>
<P class=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D"COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)">HBJ8L/36666</SPAN></P>
<P class=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D"COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)">BJ8 Registry</SPAN></P>
<P class=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D"COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)">AHCA Delegate at Large</SPAN></P>
<P class=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal><SPAN=20
style=3D"COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)">Havelock, NC&nbsp; USA</SPAN></P>
<P class=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal><A shape=3Drect=20
name=3Dx__MailEndCompose><SPAN style=3D"COLOR: =
rgb(31,73,125)"></SPAN></A>&nbsp;</P>
<DIV id=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt99156=20
class=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt6620226481>
<DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BORDER-TOP: #b5c4df 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; =
BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 3pt; =
PADDING-LEFT: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in">
<P=20
class=3Dx_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal>&nbsp;</P></DIV></DIV></DIV></=
DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
_______________________________________________<BR>Support Team.Net=20
$12.75<BR><BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys=20
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys<BR><BR>[email-masked]<BR>ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<BR><BR>Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<BR>=
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--===============5719542577199630391==
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[email-masked]

--===============5719542577199630391==--

---

From: Curtis Arndt <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 11:24:23 -0700

--===============8696853107256986682==

--000000000000cf508f06006271e2

--000000000000cf508e06006271e1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Leonard

I recently purchased a very high quality semi-custom aluminum Radiator from
ProAlloy in England. At the time, the US dollar rate to the British Pound
was at an all time low of $1.07 to =C2=A31.00, so the radiator delivered to
SoCal was just under $900 USD.

Compare the quality of the welding to the crap offered by Moss, AH Spares
etc... let alone a price that is double what I paid. The welding from
others used looks like it was done by a HS shop student on Meth!

30% more cooling than a stock brass radiator. OUTSTANDING customer service
and fast shipping [shipping alone was =C2=A3147 and the price was still und=
er
$900 USD delivered!] Additionally, they retapped the drain valve for a
proper reproduction one that Moss currently offers [one that I sent them].
Their standard brass drain is a Sprite screw type that uses a BSPT thread
[tapered] versus a BSPP thread [parallel] as per original, see the three
attached photos.

Austin Healey 100-4 Radiator - Pro Alloy
<https://www.proalloy.co.uk/products/austin-healey-100-4-radiator>

Austin Healey 3000 Radiator - Pro Alloy
<https://www.proalloy.co.uk/products/austin-healey-3000-radiator>

Cheers,

Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)

On Thu, Jul 13, 2023 at 7:59=E2=80=AFAM Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil
> coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recor=
ed
> with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower
> is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator ha=
s
> been in for at least 15-20 years.  I have driven under almost every
> condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and
> the engine temps stay where they should be.  Strongly recommend this
> option, especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator
> from the stock original and it has worked to perfection.
> Len B
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <[email-masked]> on behalf of
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
> *To:* [email-masked] <[email-masked]>; BJ8Healeys <
> [email-masked]>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
>
.
ds
?
d I
e
.
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--000000000000cf508e06006271e1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Leonard<div><br></div><div>I recently purchased a very hig=
h quality semi-custom aluminum Radiator from ProAlloy in England. At the ti=
me, the US dollar rate to the British Pound was at an all time low of $1.07=
 to=C2=A0<span style=3D"color:rgb(32,33,36)"><font face=3D"arial, sans-seri=
f" style=3D"">=C2=A3</font></span>1.00, so the radiator delivered to SoCal =
was just under $900 USD.</div><div><br></div><div>Compare the quality of th=
e welding to the crap offered by Moss, AH Spares etc... let alone a price t=
hat is double what I paid. The welding from others used looks like it was d=
one by a HS shop student on Meth!</div><div><br></div><div>30% more cooling=
 than a stock brass radiator. OUTSTANDING customer service and fast shippin=
g [shipping alone was=C2=A0<span style=3D"color:rgb(32,33,36);font-family:a=
rial,sans-serif">=C2=A3</span>147 and the price was still under $900 USD de=
livered!] Additionally, they retapped the drain valve for a proper reproduc=
tion one that Moss currently offers [one that I sent them]. Their=C2=A0stan=
dard brass drain is a Sprite screw type that uses=C2=A0a BSPT thread [taper=
ed] versus a BSPP thread [parallel] as per original, see the three attached=
 photos.</div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D"https://www.proalloy.co.uk/pro=
ducts/austin-healey-100-4-radiator">Austin Healey 100-4 Radiator - Pro Allo=
y</a><br></div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D"https://www.proalloy.co.uk/pr=
oducts/austin-healey-3000-radiator">Austin Healey 3000 Radiator - Pro Alloy=
</a><br></div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div><br></div><div>Curt Arn=
dt</div><div>Carlsbad, CA=C2=A0</div><div>&#39;55 BN1, &#39;60 AN5 :{)</div=
><div><br></div><div><img src=3D"cid:ii_lk1gruel0" alt=3D"IMG_20230103_1312=
33_050.jpg" width=3D"517" height=3D"517"><br></div><div><img src=3D"cid:ii_=
lk1gsocn1" alt=3D"IMG_20230103_130922_359.jpg" width=3D"517" height=3D"517"=
><br></div><div><img src=3D"cid:ii_lk1h0n6d2" alt=3D"IMG_20230103_130815_34=
1.jpg" width=3D"517" height=3D"517"><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div=
 class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Jul 13=
, 2023 at 7:59=E2=80=AFAM Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mail=
to:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-l=
eft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div class=3D"msg349614380=
3028887700">

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil c=
oolers, &quot;Texas fans&quot;, and electric fans. I finally had my origina=
l recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but t=
he lower is thicker, which made installation
 a little challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.=
=C2=A0 I have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, =
high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they sho=
uld be.=C2=A0 Strongly recommend this option,
 especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator from the =
stock original and it has worked to perfection. =C2=A0</div>
<div id=3D"m_4869603808946771523appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Len B</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"m_4869603808946771523divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Ca=
libri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)"><b>From:</b> H=
ealeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_bla=
nk">[email-masked]</a>&gt; on behalf of warthodson--- via H=
ealeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">heal=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">heal=
[email-masked]</a> &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;; BJ8Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailt=
o:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Heater query</font>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div>
<div style=3D"font-family:&quot;Comic Sans MS&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:16=
px">
<div></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It eith=
er needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins=
, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensi=
ve, which leads
 to the aluminum option.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options?=
 Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an alumin=
um radiator?</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Gary H</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"m_4869603808946771523x_ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted_9797011705">
<div style=3D"font-family:&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,Helvetica,Arial,sans-s=
erif;font-size:13px;color:rgb(38,40,42)">
<div>On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys &l=
t;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox=
.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"m_4869603808946771523x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256">
<div>
<div>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">I live in the sunny South (90</span=
><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:rgb=
(31,73,125)"> F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to
 refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =E2=80=9Cauxiliary engine cooler=
=E2=80=9D; but I no longer have to use=C2=A0 it that way since I had a mode=
rn core installed in the radiator and added a 190</span><span style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(31,73,125)">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">
 sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">=C2=A0</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">Steve Byers</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">BJ8 Registry</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">AHCA Delegate at Large</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">Havelock, NC=C2=A0 USA</span></p>
<p><a shape=3D"rect" name=3D"m_4869603808946771523_x__MailEndCompose"><span=
 style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">=C2=A0</span></a></p>
<div id=3D"m_4869603808946771523x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt99156">
<div>
<div style=3D"border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-=
top:1pt solid rgb(181,196,223);padding:3pt 0in 0in">
<p><br>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"h=
ttp://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
eam.net</a><br>
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r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
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m.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
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</div></blockquote></div>

--000000000000cf508e06006271e1--

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[email-masked]

--===============8696853107256986682==--

---

From: Curtis Arndt <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 11:34:45 -0700

--===============0785021397733205782==

--000000000000d9404a0600629616

--000000000000d940470600629615
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Regarding ProAlloy, I just checked their website and not only have their
prices increased, but the dollar to pound rate is not as good as it was
when I purchased mine. Still, a better product for less money.

On Thu, Jul 13, 2023 at 11:24=E2=80=AFAM Curtis Arndt <[email-masked]> =
wrote:

> Leonard
>
> I recently purchased a very high quality semi-custom aluminum Radiator
> from ProAlloy in England. At the time, the US dollar rate to the British
> Pound was at an all time low of $1.07 to =C2=A31.00, so the radiator deli=
vered
> to SoCal was just under $900 USD.
>
> 30% more cooling than a stock brass radiator. OUTSTANDING customer servic=
e
> and fast shipping [shipping alone was =C2=A3147 and the price was still u=
nder
> proper reproduction one that Moss currently offers [one that I sent them]=
.
>> I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oi=
l
>> coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original reco=
red
>> with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lowe=
r
>> is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator h=
as
>> condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. an=
d
d.
ads
r?
nd I
he
s.
>> Havelock, NC  USA

--000000000000d940470600629615
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Regarding ProAlloy, I just checked their website and not o=
nly have their prices increased, but the dollar to pound rate is not as goo=
d as it was when I purchased mine. Still, a better product for less money.<=
/div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">O=
n Thu, Jul 13, 2023 at 11:24=E2=80=AFAM Curtis Arndt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px sol=
id rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Leonard<div><br></di=
v><div>I recently purchased a very high quality semi-custom aluminum Radiat=
or from ProAlloy in England. At the time, the US dollar rate to the British=
 Pound was at an all time low of $1.07 to=C2=A0<span style=3D"color:rgb(32,=
33,36)"><font face=3D"arial, sans-serif">=C2=A3</font></span>1.00, so the r=
adiator delivered to SoCal was just under $900 USD.</div><div><br></div><di=
v>Compare the quality of the welding to the crap offered by Moss, AH Spares=
 etc... let alone a price that is double what I paid. The welding from othe=
rs used looks like it was done by a HS shop student on Meth!</div><div><br>=
</div><div>30% more cooling than a stock brass radiator. OUTSTANDING custom=
er service and fast shipping [shipping alone was=C2=A0<span style=3D"color:=
rgb(32,33,36);font-family:arial,sans-serif">=C2=A3</span>147 and the price =
was still under $900 USD delivered!] Additionally, they retapped the drain =
valve for a proper reproduction one that Moss currently offers [one that I =
sent them]. Their=C2=A0standard brass drain is a Sprite screw type that use=
s=C2=A0a BSPT thread [tapered] versus a BSPP thread [parallel] as per origi=
nal, see the three attached photos.</div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D"htt=
ps://www.proalloy.co.uk/products/austin-healey-100-4-radiator" target=3D"_b=
lank">Austin Healey 100-4 Radiator - Pro Alloy</a><br></div><div><br></div>=
<div><a href=3D"https://www.proalloy.co.uk/products/austin-healey-3000-radi=
ator" target=3D"_blank">Austin Healey 3000 Radiator - Pro Alloy</a><br></di=
v><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div><br></div><div>Curt Arndt</div><div=
>Carlsbad, CA=C2=A0</div><div>&#39;55 BN1, &#39;60 AN5 :{)</div><div><br></=
div><div><img src=3D"cid:ii_lk1gruel0" alt=3D"IMG_20230103_131233_050.jpg" =
width=3D"517" height=3D"517"><br></div><div><img src=3D"cid:ii_lk1gsocn1" a=
lt=3D"IMG_20230103_130922_359.jpg" width=3D"517" height=3D"517"><br></div><=
div><img src=3D"cid:ii_lk1h0n6d2" alt=3D"IMG_20230103_130815_341.jpg" width=
=3D"517" height=3D"517"><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gm=
ail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Jul 13, 2023 at 7:=
59=E2=80=AFAM Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@a=
utox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><=
/div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bo=
rder-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil c=
oolers, &quot;Texas fans&quot;, and electric fans. I finally had my origina=
l recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but t=
he lower is thicker, which made installation
 a little challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.=
=C2=A0 I have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, =
high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they sho=
uld be.=C2=A0 Strongly recommend this option,
 especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator from the =
stock original and it has worked to perfection. =C2=A0</div>
<div id=3D"m_8551830816887354730m_4869603808946771523appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Len B</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"m_8551830816887354730m_4869603808946771523divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"=
ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0=
,0,0)"><b>From:</b> Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
m.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; on behalf o=
f warthodson--- via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" t=
arget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">heal=
[email-masked]</a> &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;; BJ8Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailt=
o:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Heater query</font>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div>
<div style=3D"font-family:&quot;Comic Sans MS&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:16=
px">
<div></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It eith=
er needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins=
, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensi=
ve, which leads
 to the aluminum option.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options?=
 Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an alumin=
um radiator?</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Gary H</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"m_8551830816887354730m_4869603808946771523x_ydp70f1316yahoo_quot=
ed_9797011705">
<div style=3D"font-family:&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,Helvetica,Arial,sans-s=
erif;font-size:13px;color:rgb(38,40,42)">
<div>On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys &l=
t;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox=
.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"m_8551830816887354730m_4869603808946771523x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989=
256">
<div>
<div>
<p><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">I live in the sunny South (90</span=
<p><a shape=3D"rect" name=3D"m_8551830816887354730_m_4869603808946771523_x_=
_MailEndCompose"><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">=C2=A0</span></a></p>
<div id=3D"m_8551830816887354730m_4869603808946771523x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989=
256yqt99156">

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[email-masked]

--===============0785021397733205782==--

---

From: Robert Markovich via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2023 18:39:24 +0000 (UTC)

--===============0136652426027816286==
	boundary="----=_Part_3727486_1448600916.1689273564113"

------=_Part_3727486_1448600916.1689273564113
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dave Nock=E2=80=99s upgrades sound much like mine: alloy (Wizard) radiator =
with two large tubes, proper thermostat, pusher fan, high volume water pump=
, plus alloy head (the original 100/4 heads are often shot by now). Never o=
verheats even in 90 deg weather. And the aux pusher fan is a godsend in tra=
ffic.=C2=A0

On Thursday, July 13, 2023, 12:35 PM, David Nock BCS via Healeys <healeys@a=
utox.team.net> wrote:

#yiv4617816978 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}We have been dealing with t=
he British=C2=A0 Car industry for only about 70 years, from an independent =
shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer in the 70s and 80s. Then back to =
an independent repair shop dealing strictly British Cars the entire time.=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time=
. Up until about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high efficen=
cy radiator core in all our radiators. We would not paint the cores, change=
 the necks to a short neck allowing a higher pressure cap, correct thermost=
ats, installed air ducts correctly. All of these things helped. =C2=A0I am =
personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my own perso=
nal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a highly upgraded =
motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, perfomance MSD ignition and mu=
ch more. I was continually having hot running problems here in the central =
valley of California with the summer temps always in the high 90s and upto =
110. =C2=A0I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an allumini=
um radiator, with 2 rows of=C2=A0 1=E2=80=9D tubes. The original Healey rad=
iator is a 2 row core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been instal=
ling is a 3 row core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially g=
ave us more tube to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.=C2=A0Now w=
ith the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube to fin and=
 more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.=C2=A0Now for the test=
, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and immediately the running tem=
perature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees depending on the day. However I =
still had an issue with slow traffic speeds. It was much better=C2=A0 but I=
 wanted to make it better. So I installed a pusher fan on a thermostat set =
at 180 degrees, and now all the heating issues are gone.=C2=A0So maybe if y=
ou compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and tubes, the copper bras=
s radiators are better. But my own personal test in my car proved to me tha=
t the alloy radiator was the cure.=C2=A0
=C2=A0David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com=C2=A0From: Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys Sent=
: Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AMTo: [email-masked] Subject: Re: [H=
ealeys] Heater query=C2=A0I do not have any experience with aluminum radiat=
ors but I have tried oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finall=
y had my original recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank i=
s original but the lower is thicker, which made installation a little chall=
enging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.=C2=A0 I have dri=
ven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90=
MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they should be.=C2=A0 Str=
ongly recommend this option, especially since it almost impossible to disti=
nguish my radiator from the stock original and it has worked to perfection.=
=C2=A0 Len BFrom: Healeys <[email-masked]> on behalf of war=
thodson--- via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>; BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.=
rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater query =C2=A0My 100 radiator is in need of som=
e rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace=
 some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but t=
hat would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.=C2=A0 Besi=
des price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if =
re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?Gary H=C2=
=A0On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <hea=
[email-masked]> wrote: =C2=A0=C2=A0
I live in the sunny South (90=C2=B0 F and 90% relative humidity today) and =
I used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater as the =E2=80=9Cauxiliary engine=
 cooler=E2=80=9D; but I no longer have to use=C2=A0 it that way since I had=
 a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190=C2=B0 sleeved ther=
mostat that I bought from Kees.

=C2=A0

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC=C2=A0 USA

=C2=A0

=C2=A0

[email-masked]

@sbcglobal.net

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

------=_Part_3727486_1448600916.1689273564113
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microso=
ft-com:vml" xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"><head><!--[=
if gte mso 9]><xml><o:OfficeDocumentSettings><o:AllowPNG/><o:PixelsPerInch>=
96</o:PixelsPerInch></o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--></head><bo=
dy>
Dave Nock=E2=80=99s upgrades sound much like mine: alloy (Wizard) radiator =
with two large tubes, proper thermostat, pusher fan, high volume water pump=
, plus alloy head (the original 100/4 heads are often shot by now). Never o=
verheats even in 90 deg weather. And the aux pusher fan is a godsend in tra=
ffic.&nbsp;<br><br><br><div class=3D"yahoo-signature"><a href=3D"https://ap=
ps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661">Sent from the=
 all new AOL app for iOS</a><br></div><br><p class=3D"yahoo-quoted-begin" s=
tyle=3D"font-size: 15px; color: #715FFA; padding-top: 15px; margin-top: 0">=
On Thursday, July 13, 2023, 12:35 PM, David Nock BCS via Healeys &lt;healey=
[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</p><blockquote class=3D"iosymail"><div id=3D"yi=
v4617816978"><style type=3D"text/css">#yiv4617816978 P {margin-top:0;margin=
-bottom:0;}</style><div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:'Century';COLOR:#000000;">
<div>We have been dealing with the British&nbsp; Car industry for only abou=
t 70=20
years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer in the=
 70s=20
and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing strictly British C=
ars=20
the entire time.&nbsp; </div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up unt=
il=20
about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high efficency radiator=
 core=20
in all our radiators. We would not paint the cores, change the necks to a s=
hort=20
neck allowing a higher pressure cap, correct thermostats, installed air duc=
ts=20
correctly. All of these things helped. </div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my=
 own=20
personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a highly upgr=
aded=20
motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, perfomance MSD ignition and mu=
ch=20
more. I was continually having hot running problems here in the central val=
ley=20
of California with the summer temps always in the high 90s and upto 110. </=
div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium=20
radiator, with 2 rows of&nbsp; 1=E2=80=9D tubes. The original Healey radiat=
or is a 2 row=20
core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing is a 3 row c=
ore=20
with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially gave us more tube to f=
in=20
area as well as more fin to air surface.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube =
to=20
fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and immedi=
ately=20
the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees depending on the =
day.=20
However I still had an issue with slow traffic speeds. It was much better&n=
bsp;=20
but I wanted to make it better. So I installed a pusher fan on a thermostat=
 set=20
at 180 degrees, and now all the heating issues are gone.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and tube=
s,=20
the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test in my car p=
roved=20
to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>David Nock<br clear=3D"none">British Car=20
Specialists<br clear=3D"none">209-948-8767<br clear=3D"none">www.britishcar=
specialists.com</div>
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-WEIGHT:normal;COLOR=
:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline;">
<div style=3D"FONT:10pt tahoma;">
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"BACKGROUND:#f5f5f5;">
<div id=3D"yiv4617816978yqtfd77350" class=3D"yiv4617816978yqt5595643449"><d=
iv style=3D""><b>From:</b> <a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D=
"rect" title=3D"[email-masked]">Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys</a> <=
/div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" titl=
e=3D"[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>=20
</div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Heater query</div></div></div></div><div=
 id=3D"yiv4617816978yqtfd52836" class=3D"yiv4617816978yqt5595643449">
<div>&nbsp;</div></div></div><div id=3D"yiv4617816978yqtfd86651" class=3D"y=
iv4617816978yqt5595643449">
</div><div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:small;TEXT-DECORATION:none;FONT-WEIGHT:normal=
;COLOR:#000000;FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline;"><div id=3D"yiv4617816978y=
qtfd72785" class=3D"yiv4617816978yqt5595643449">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:calibri, helvetica, sans-serif;COL=
OR:rgb(0,0,0);" class=3D"yiv4617816978elementToProof">I=20
do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil coo=
lers,=20
"Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored with a c=
ore=20
that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower is thicker, w=
hich=20
made installation a little challenging. The radiator has been in for at lea=
st=20
15-20 years.&nbsp; I have driven under almost every condition- very hot amb=
ient=20
temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where t=
hey=20
should be.&nbsp; Strongly recommend this option, especially since it almost=
=20
impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it has wo=
rked=20
to perfection.&nbsp; </div>
<div id=3D"yiv4617816978appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:calibri, helvetica, sans-serif;COL=
OR:rgb(0,0,0);" class=3D"yiv4617816978elementToProof">Len=20
B</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"WIDTH:98%;DISPLAY:inline-block;">

<div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yiv4617816978divRplyFwdMsg"><b>From:</b> Healeys=20
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of warthodson--- via Heale=
ys=20
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br clear=3D"none"><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July=
 11, 2023 9:49=20
AM<br clear=3D"none"><b>To:</b> [email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]=
am.net&gt;;=20
BJ8Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br clear=3D"none"><b>Subject:</b> Re: [=
Healeys] Heater=20
query=20
<div>&nbsp;</div></div>
<div>
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:16px;FONT-FAMILY:comic sans ms, sans-serif;" class=
=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp3ac0765cyahoo-style-wrap">
<div></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">My 100 radiator is in need of some=20
rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace s=
ome=20
of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that wo=
uld=20
be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.&nbsp; </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of=20
these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient =
than=20
an aluminum radiator?</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Gary H</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div></div>
<div id=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted_9797011705" class=3D"yiv46=
17816978x_ydp70f1316yahoo_quoted">
<div style=3D"FONT-SIZE:13px;FONT-FAMILY:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;COLOR=
:rgb(38,40,42);">
<div>On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys=20
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote: </div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256">
<div>
<div class=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256Section1">
<p class=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D=
"COLOR:rgb(31,73,125);">I live in the sunny South (90</span><span style=3D"=
COLOR:rgb(31,73,125);">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"COLOR:rgb(31,73,125);"> =
F and=20
90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8=E2=80=99s heater=
 as the=20
=E2=80=9Cauxiliary engine cooler=E2=80=9D; but I no longer have to use&nbsp=
; it that way since I=20
had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190</span><span sty=
le=3D"COLOR:rgb(31,73,125);">=C2=B0</span><span style=3D"COLOR:rgb(31,73,12=
5);">=20
sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.</span></p>
<p class=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D=
"COLOR:rgb(31,73,125);"></span>&nbsp;</p>
<p class=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D=
"COLOR:rgb(31,73,125);">Steve Byers</span></p>
<p class=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D=
"COLOR:rgb(31,73,125);">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>
<p class=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D=
"COLOR:rgb(31,73,125);">BJ8 Registry</span></p>
<p class=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D=
"COLOR:rgb(31,73,125);">AHCA Delegate at Large</span></p>
<p class=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><span style=3D=
"COLOR:rgb(31,73,125);">Havelock, NC&nbsp; USA</span></p>
<p class=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal"><a rel=3D"nofo=
llow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" name=3D"x__MailEndCompose"><span s=
tyle=3D"COLOR:rgb(31,73,125);"></span></a>&nbsp;</p>
<div id=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt99156" class=3D"yiv4617=
816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256yqt6620226481">
<div>
<div style=3D"BORDER-TOP:#b5c4df 1pt solid;BORDER-RIGHT:medium none;BORDER-=
BOTTOM:medium none;PADDING-BOTTOM:0in;PADDING-TOP:3pt;PADDING-LEFT:0in;BORD=
ER-LEFT:medium none;PADDING-RIGHT:0in;">
<p class=3D"yiv4617816978x_ydp70f1316yiv6075989256MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p></di=
v></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
<p>
</p><hr>
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