From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 14 18:41:21 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7FB9D42266 for ; Thu, 14 Feb 2013 18:41:21 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from mail-vc0-f173.google.com (mail-vc0-f173.google.com [209.85.220.173]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B7AB942257 for ; Thu, 14 Feb 2013 18:38:26 -0700 (MST) Received: by mail-vc0-f173.google.com with SMTP id fy7so1935307vcb.18 for ; Thu, 14 Feb 2013 17:32:21 -0800 (PST) d=google.com; s=20120113; h=mime-version:x-received:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type:x-gm-message-state; bh=z2mdZvxa/v2MyXt95lv+w09lYsAOFN7Shrm58O+U3RM=; b=Xk2AH/u52sC2v1bySFIZffkZkEO2Ykxi0gUKuvJlFg8B6RVNzwoUf4jBcUeCgLiFiK 1/n+KNN6M1bX0ICa5iDu1b+vIT8H3QcrSon+5em8xbJxikKxA8c8i8mxUm9kzqUBY5ta k9lrhXV0jf7mQ9mvsGC4xxke/1rUgmKsV0NSPO7sckMmTmDicF7GBbLTpIo8bp3IeKU3 meo1ZfRBtWm2O9MWvgAvD3pXJCN+dBqwmeq4n2EQGFFoAPBTKOHCKIWqfGust/jxem6f VZP9uBF/i3geDQudEfPF4Iok4jB112wfxrzQjYeGVGjzsEcZj3Wiot0F4ehzlSw0poU5 qYZA== w11mr928456vcv.63.1360891941109; Thu, 14 Feb 2013 17:32:21 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.58.234.199 with HTTP; Thu, 14 Feb 2013 17:32:20 -0800 (PST) Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2013 19:32:20 -0600 From: "gunnellj tds.net" To: Mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] Re TD Front Brake Backing Plates Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net What differentiates on front brake backing plate form the other? They have separarte part numbers On my car The backing plate on the left is stamped 4/2RH The backing plate on the right is stamped 25905/_H I see these plates have different LH and RH part numbers in the Moss Catalog, but they look identical to me. I realize there is an extra little hole on one side that must either face forward or rearward (who knows the right direction for sure?), but it seems as if you could just flip one over to get that orientation. Is there really a difference I am missing here? ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 14 18:56:48 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 123664246C for ; Thu, 14 Feb 2013 18:56:48 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from blu0-omc2-s13.blu0.hotmail.com (blu0-omc2-s13.blu0.hotmail.com [65.55.111.88]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id C06CE40424 for ; Thu, 14 Feb 2013 18:52:49 -0700 (MST) Received: from BLU0-SMTP80 ([65.55.111.73]) by blu0-omc2-s13.blu0.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(6.0.3790.4675); Thu, 14 Feb 2013 17:46:44 -0800 Received: from amd ([70.30.108.249]) by BLU0-SMTP80.phx.gbl over TLS secured channel with Microsoft SMTPSVC(6.0.3790.4675); Thu, 14 Feb 2013 17:46:43 -0800 From: BOB GRUNAU To: "gunnellj tds.net" , Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2013 20:56:28 -0500 FILETIME=[4E89C820:01CE0B1E] Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Re TD Front Brake Backing Plates Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mirror images, not the same. Bob -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of gunnellj tds.net Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2013 8:32 PM To: Mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] Re TD Front Brake Backing Plates What differentiates on front brake backing plate form the other? They have separarte part numbers On my car The backing plate on the left is stamped 4/2RH The backing plate on the right is stamped 25905/_H I see these plates have different LH and RH part numbers in the Moss Catalog, but they look identical to me. I realize there is an extra little hole on one side that must either face forward or rearward (who knows the right direction for sure?), but it seems as if you could just flip one over to get that orientation. Is there really a difference I am missing here? ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/grunau.garage@sympatico.ca ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Thu Feb 14 19:27:16 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id F2E0942478 for ; Thu, 14 Feb 2013 19:27:15 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from smtpauth13.mail.atl.earthlink.net (smtpauth13.mail.atl.earthlink.net [209.86.89.73]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E06E540EA1 for ; Thu, 14 Feb 2013 19:21:44 -0700 (MST) Received: from [67.160.163.213] (helo=JQLT070909) by smtpauth13.mail.atl.earthlink.net with esmtpa (Exim 4.67) (envelope-from ) id 1U6Apv-0006Y3-1y for mg-t@autox.team.net; Thu, 14 Feb 2013 21:15:39 -0500 From: "John F. Quilter" To: "MG T List" References: Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2013 18:16:09 -0800 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Re TD Front Brake Backing Plates Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Doesn't it have something to do with making sure the wheel cylinders are fitted correctly to permit a self energizing effect when the shoes and cylinders face the correct way around? John Quilter Eugene, Oregon ----- Original Message ----- From: "BOB GRUNAU" To: "gunnellj tds.net" ; Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2013 5:56 PM Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Re TD Front Brake Backing Plates > Mirror images, not the same. > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of gunnellj tds.net > Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2013 8:32 PM > To: Mg-t@autox.team.net > Subject: [Mg-t] Re TD Front Brake Backing Plates > > > What differentiates on front brake backing plate form the other? They have > separarte part numbers > > On my car > > The backing plate on the left is stamped 4/2RH > > The backing plate on the right is stamped 25905/_H > > I see these plates have different LH and RH part numbers in the Moss > Catalog, but they look identical to me. > > I realize there is an extra little hole on one side that must either face > forward or rearward (who knows the right direction for sure?), but it > seems as if you could just flip one over to get that orientation. > > Is there really a difference I am missing here? > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/grunau.garage@sympatico.ca > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/jquilter@peoplepc.com ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 15 08:23:42 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id D8C604043E for ; Fri, 15 Feb 2013 08:23:42 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net (elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net [209.86.89.67]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AC551403D5 for ; Fri, 15 Feb 2013 08:23:36 -0700 (MST) DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=dk20050327; d=earthlink.net; b=EDgledzO+7fCu7EKDvVrMiaIKXJin3PC0h3zSRlv648008kFGGx1/NbW5YZWRwLE; h=Received:Subject:Mime-Version:Content-Type:From:In-Reply-To:Date:Cc:Content-Transfer-Encoding:Message-Id:References:To:X-Mailer:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP; Received: from [99.186.192.127] (helo=[192.168.1.33]) by elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net with esmtpa (Exim 4.67) (envelope-from ) id 1U6N2W-0003T6-9I; Fri, 15 Feb 2013 10:17:28 -0500 From: John Seim Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 07:17:26 -0800 References: To: gunnellj tds.net Cc: Mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Re TD Front Brake Backing Plates Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Aside from part numbers, I do not know the difference on the front plates. As to the rear plates, the slot for the wheel cylinder must have an arc. Have seen them reversed, and brake cylinder hangs up in slot, unable to move. Moving plates to correct sides corrected problem. John Seim Irvine, CA On Feb 14, 2013, at 5:32 PM, gunnellj tds.net wrote: > What differentiates on front brake backing plate form the other? They have > separarte part numbers > > On my car > > The backing plate on the left is stamped 4/2RH > > The backing plate on the right is stamped 25905/_H > > I see these plates have different LH and RH part numbers in the Moss > Catalog, but they look identical to me. > > I realize there is an extra little hole on one side that must either face > forward or rearward (who knows the right direction for sure?), but it > seems as if you could just flip one over to get that orientation. > > Is there really a difference I am missing here? > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 15 20:54:38 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 67D904043D for ; Fri, 15 Feb 2013 20:54:38 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from mail-vb0-f53.google.com (mail-vb0-f53.google.com [209.85.212.53]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 1A85A403A6 for ; Fri, 15 Feb 2013 20:54:32 -0700 (MST) Received: by mail-vb0-f53.google.com with SMTP id fj18so2565946vbb.40 for ; Fri, 15 Feb 2013 19:48:21 -0800 (PST) d=google.com; s=20120113; h=mime-version:x-received:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type:x-gm-message-state; bh=NaJJZ7PkXtUd6fhbdY1aFq2KIX1tBi5ZZZ8rHjVXa9k=; b=Vk6wS6bdM3eVDlGtMEAz7j+mNWkSNc3BGwPhIIuOK/2VgPvTFBgVdf8r2l6CKeJ0Rv aNggtu2dX72vn7LuS1K6/BAqKy730gm3wxDlqinGww08l6FJGTeK06+4qmbEg0/Hf8f9 D6rIOgfD2/T9YTE7ULxSbgAaPYYyhgyadQjuRrG0ZOy7nLuhBjD0VecpeH4Q5Dvyjk6E fnMmMURCOaSTSKG8Nw1TUeaR+qqbysbrG7r0mq54KGoxy3TLL6IbCwZsdEOlW5tU0FmW VFIkGKGF/2PUsXpz5CDG/o3gY4SRTr8rt6CMHdQhcaNaFcg9euuqgP7ceAbryTUPuDOT mOFQ== w11mr6208714vcv.63.1360986501746; Fri, 15 Feb 2013 19:48:21 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.58.234.199 with HTTP; Fri, 15 Feb 2013 19:48:21 -0800 (PST) Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 21:48:21 -0600 From: "gunnellj tds.net" To: Mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] Restoration Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wow, i was at the body shop today and the '52 MG TD looked like a car for the first time in a long time. The shop owners is asking me questions and I guess it's time to order some parts, too. First question - Is there a spacer or anything between the rear fenders and their mounting bracket on the frame that keeps them from rubbing against the rear "gravel pan?" We can't see anything in the Moss Catalog or shop manual. The second MG (hot rod) has round rubber washers or grommets on both sides of one rear fender, but we don't know if the car is "factory." Second question: A) Are Moss "bolt kits" worthg ordering? Which ones? What don't the kits include? B) Same question for the major body rubber kit ? C) How about body beading? How much does a typical restoration require? C) What else? Third question: Anyone have experience with a product call RSP (Rapid Setting Polyester) which was once the hot ticket in the old-car hobby for fixing cars with wood in them. We have some relatively minor rot at bottom of the right-hand front latch pillar. Wondering is we couldn't just use RSP? John Gunnell Iola, WI ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 16 03:37:20 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 469774043F for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 03:37:20 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from imr-da03.mx.aol.com (imr-da03.mx.aol.com [205.188.105.145]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 22D7E4042E for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 03:37:07 -0700 (MST) Received: from mtaomg-db02.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-db02.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.51.200]) by imr-da03.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id 0B7571C0000AA; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 05:30:55 -0500 (EST) Received: from core-dte003c.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-dte003.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.163.201]) by mtaomg-db02.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id C309EE000085; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 05:30:54 -0500 (EST) From: PopeyMike@aol.com Full-name: PopeyMike Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 05:30:54 -0500 (EST) To: shop@justbrits.com, healeys@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net, Midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com, spridgets@autox.team.net x-aol-global-disposition: G s=20121107; t=1361010654; bh=CAwwDISZqP6cegpoDYKnS1XZ/TmGv1H3P1oS79VWVcA=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=I8wNuO3gxcIMpMhGwMMBJbq4jSdZknBn+1LdfhVM2iI9T2Yf9KUlFm7O13o5IMp+1 2gPGXl/1jNWVI9muPK9T+lCfOEHhCNg6LrDvCctFMhtMR/vOtX0WsZ9/3IGmlUGuhB ciugjzG5sV65kYMDtM79QptUz1etF0ZMvUy1IgEs= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d33c8511f5fde160e Subject: [Mg-t] Engine cleaning - need Help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Have had to pull XPAG engine out of my 53 TD Cylinder head rebuilt formerly by a real amateur - used different diameter valves in every cylinder. Found this because the head gasket gave out and water got in oil. Now to clean the engine block water passages & seperately oil passages need your collective advise. Is it wise to use phosphoric acid in the water galleys? Does it have to be neutralized afterwards and with what solution? Or is it enough just to massively flush out the acid? Is it better to use a caustic solution such as sodium hydroxide (Draino crystals) - and does this need to be neutralized or just flushed? I read about some passage way that needs cleaning behind one of the freeze plugs - any info on this? How much does the engine weigh? Is it safe to lift it with the head bolts without doing damage to the head bolts? ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 16 03:48:50 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6497A4042E for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 03:48:50 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from imr-ma04.mx.aol.com (imr-ma04.mx.aol.com [64.12.206.42]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B345D403A5 for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 03:46:42 -0700 (MST) Received: from mtaomg-da06.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-da06.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.51.142]) by imr-ma04.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id 1A9941C00008A; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 05:40:29 -0500 (EST) Received: from core-dte003c.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-dte003.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.163.201]) by mtaomg-da06.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id E4329E000085; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 05:40:28 -0500 (EST) From: PopeyMike@aol.com Full-name: PopeyMike Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 05:40:28 -0500 (EST) To: gunnellj@tds.net, Mg-t@autox.team.net x-aol-global-disposition: G s=20121107; t=1361011229; bh=xSX665GItqXU5xGFI4I2P9ZwPOz2bQcRkGE5eAefUZ8=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=YCP36tkHYgMtOVoOJumDhTmMJVFqgHb/21UwQu/763Y9Ac3lGyQMnjLLRyrBe3Rvi gblHKbP3tKRk9+HwmOXnl0YtfFuvosJj0F0HJnHx3zSiNVEFqNyHzNOQbITebBjQVi /8/J/MFR7cg64+9pIZ/QGwf+STCcTNLmJie17JgA= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d338e511f621c3058 Subject: [Mg-t] Clean engine water galleys Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sending another request - Need advise Have had to pull XPAG engine out of my 53 TD Cylinder head rebuilt formerly by a real amateur - used different diameter valves in every cylinder. Found this because the head gasket gave out and water got in oil. Now to clean the engine block water passages & seperately oil passages need your collective advise. Is it wise to use phosphoric acid in the water galleys? Does it have to be neutralized afterwards and with what solution? Or is it enough just to massively flush out the acid? Is it better to use a caustic solution such as sodium hydroxide (Draino crystals) - and does this need to be neutralized or just flushed? I read about some passage way that needs cleaning behind one of the freeze plugs - any info on this? How much does the XPAG engine weigh? Is it safe to lift it with the head bolts without doing damage to the head bolts? OR Do you have to use a sling under the oil pan? Will pressure on the oil pan not weaken the pan gasket seal? Thanks for your help Michael Balahutrak 53 TD Houston, TX ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 16 05:18:44 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 653494044C for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 05:18:44 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from mail-la0-f42.google.com (mail-la0-f42.google.com [209.85.215.42]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id CB2DE40431 for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 05:18:16 -0700 (MST) Received: by mail-la0-f42.google.com with SMTP id fe20so4221161lab.29 for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 04:12:03 -0800 (PST) d=google.com; s=20120113; h=mime-version:x-received:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id :subject:from:to:cc:content-type:x-gm-message-state; bh=0mJfBSNWfkjganXZtkKkFAsPeBBRtiFkA4BYCjLCME4=; b=eqGxLWiB2eSfzZCzkGlz5mzwWTDX0lUMqDdMHs8fUlX7OsyrnYsBigM4UWM0ewPYPy Qzotjna9ZeSCjUO8ZQ+FMN7XNxSZ9PACSjJnANk1iEINn/isPE/S+cRY19BtD8s7KJkL x47fhgtDhDJ8sgCUdzbXm/p2CNrcX072dTvDAlvEtU7U18WwfbypJY9cKFxOKMVywfDD NZPvmO8mq4QHSdowShLJQRYCvlCxTyQCy6eIzE9VvXWHALJ/VLCqbQJ1fvyDEHlfBxhB PKNNqR7Mg9ZMt5mBfdYDZyIWBxZ77ae/Xr97a9H6tlBE2CZmRy3+UbTeSxYgqd+c93EQ NZcQ== iq10mr4963850lab.55.1361016722580; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 04:12:02 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.112.110.138 with HTTP; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 04:12:02 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.112.110.138 with HTTP; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 04:12:02 -0800 (PST) References: <31976.19e95851.3e50b9de@aol.com> Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 07:12:02 -0500 From: Ted Jackson To: PopeyMike@aol.com Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net, healeys@autox.team.net, MG-T , Midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Engine cleaning - need Help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net The previous owner of my TD told me he lugged the block to a do-it-yourself car wash and directed a high pressure jet into the water passages. He said that the amount of crap he blew out was quite amazing. My TD has, for the 14 years I've owned it, consistently run cooler than the other TDs I know so he must have done something right. Ted Jackson. On Feb 16, 2013 5:31 AM, wrote: > Have had to pull XPAG engine out of my 53 TD > > Cylinder head rebuilt formerly by a real amateur - used different diameter > valves in every cylinder. Found this because the head gasket gave out and > water got in oil. > > Now to clean the engine block water passages & seperately oil passages > need your collective advise. > > Is it wise to use phosphoric acid in the water galleys? Does it have to > be neutralized afterwards and with what solution? Or is it enough just to > massively flush out the acid? > > Is it better to use a caustic solution such as sodium hydroxide (Draino > crystals) - and does this need to be neutralized or just flushed? > > I read about some passage way that needs cleaning behind one of the freeze > plugs - any info on this? > > How much does the engine weigh? > > Is it safe to lift it with the head bolts without doing damage to the head > bolts? > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ted@the-jacksons.ca ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 16 06:12:07 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AD6B740445 for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 06:12:07 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from outbound-mail02.vgs.untd.com (outbound-mail02.vgs.untd.com [64.136.55.36]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with SMTP id 406D340419 for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 06:12:03 -0700 (MST) s=alpha; t=1361019950; bh=47DEQpj8HBSa+/TImW+5JCeuQeRkm5NMpJWZG3hSuFU=; l=0; h=From:Date:To:Cc:Subject:Message-Id:Content-Type; b=i5fqomFBw1T69fXy/X//3fM/u9OxeQep0ePdYaSD1/vr7mgMtYTFe+Ve1svsiYGKp jmn9eZuSpDWfxPx64udVLE1zm1lfMBYCZ9wStHAtpdhXfq4DtKh0sVjkpBp1W0dcrR 7Fv3BUG751GRvQYGmrk4gVhzE/mgS07KaB8fkJS0= Received: from outbound-bu1.vgs.untd.com (webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com [10.181.12.101]) by smtpout04.vgs.untd.com with SMTP id AABJT9BA5ARKX2V2 for (sender ); Sat, 16 Feb 2013 05:05:31 -0800 (PST) Received: from [108.88.216.197] by webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com with HTTP: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 13:04:44 GMT From: "mgbob@juno.com" Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 13:04:44 GMT To: gunnellj@tds.net Cc: Mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Restoration Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Hi John, There were several (two or three) spacer washers between rear wing and the body that spaced the wing away from the valence. These cars are not identical, so you can use spacers as needed to achieve the 1/8 clearance mine has. I don't know about the bolt kit. Fortunately, all the original fastenings, other than those for the running boards, are sound. The rubber kit question. Two members in our club have bought the kit within the past couple of years. It appears that some of the rubber bits are excellent, but some are oversize and clumsy looking. For my project, I am re-using some of the original rubber and getting what I must from Moss. Beading/welting. I ordered from Moss, whatever it is they have in the package. The others in the club who bought Moss welting found that there was not the smaller welting needed for the front splash pan. I may have to get it made, as the large size used for body to wing attachment looks clumsy. I do not know the RSP product, but have had very successful results in some marine applications with a product named Git-Rot. It penetrates then saturates the punky wood, then hardens into a tough plastic that resembles the plastic of screwdriver handles. Drill and tap, as needed. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "gunnellj tds.net" To: Mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] Restoration Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 21:48:21 -0600 Wow, i was at the body shop today and the '52 MG TD looked like a car for the first time in a long time. The shop owners is asking me questions and I guess it's time to order some parts, too. First question - Is there a spacer or anything between the rear fenders and their mounting bracket on the frame that keeps them from rubbing against the rear "gravel pan?" We can't see anything in the Moss Catalog or shop manual. The second MG (hot rod) has round rubber washers or grommets on both sides of one rear fender, but we don't know if the car is "factory." Second question: A) Are Moss "bolt kits" worthg ordering? Which ones? What don't the kits include? B) Same question for the major body rubber kit ? C) How about body beading? How much does a typical restoration require? C) What else? Third question: Anyone have experience with a product call RSP (Rapid Setting Polyester) which was once the hot ticket in the old-car hobby for fixing cars with wood in them. We have some relatively minor rot at bottom of the right-hand front latch pillar. Wondering is we couldn't just use RSP? John Gunnell Iola, WI ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 16 07:53:55 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 62C8E4043F for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 07:53:55 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from qmta15.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net (qmta15.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net [76.96.59.228]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A3A6140431 for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 07:52:43 -0700 (MST) Received: from omta15.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net ([76.96.62.87]) by qmta15.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net with comcast id 118c1l0011swQuc5F2mVwG; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 14:46:29 +0000 Received: from [10.227.52.154] ([174.228.68.182]) by omta15.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net with comcast id 12m61l00M3vxFeN3b2m9rm; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 14:46:27 +0000 To: "=?utf-8?B?VGVkIEphY2tzb24=?=" ,PopeyMike@aol.com From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 08:46:26 -0600 s=q20121106; t=1361025989; bh=ord1j5DpAi3A4w1rcW5azqbrZCqRtCnRZshdw0WxyQ4=; h=Received:Received:To:From:Subject:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=smA5MIHlPzZBBj5cbaOcIzvOfIE2AfqIrCv9NAYxSF1Di1s4svvIpOobNAxi21PRb pcSWSC/qnXbGE6BLHhViME6syWU2dOL9p8Euh+yksC+OgKEvgMoJ5UDTgThVsaguCH kk+/8jtecI293dzRqeHjuVVcdVAyWDlPIFYI3xJ9KBDYDjXKwL44lBpiBia1TQlffR SsqwV1WEvf41jE6D3UZewdVxShPbdr4mWNTpXe1Hnvm4lQxH8rbwgZ6I+kbsuwbiog l0jKFbWjloogGeVkEpTHEDSRu8y1i7JM7LMway5nCNPViajsNNkDPQe8oxGlrz+FGr 2KBKN9Uj7/okQ== Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net, healeys@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net, =?utf-8?B?CU1HLVQ=?= , Midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?Engine_cleaning_-_need_Help?= Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Yep, Ted, he did it right. We've used high pressure soapy water on block passages for years. Follow it with a clean water rinse, then use pressurized air blown through to dry it. Finish with liberal amount of WD40 to displace anything left and prevent any rust, and you're off to the races! Remember the technology, or lack thereof, when these cars were new..and that's why they're easy to work on. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Ted Jackson" To: Cc: , , , " MG-T" , Subject: [Mg-t] Engine cleaning - need Help Date: Sat, Feb 16, 2013 06:12 The previous owner of my TD told me he lugged the block to a do-it-yourself car wash and directed a high pressure jet into the water passages. He said that the amount of crap he blew out was quite amazing. My TD has, for the 14 years I've owned it, consistently run cooler than the other TDs I know so he must have done something right. Ted Jackson. On Feb 16, 2013 5:31 AM, wrote: > Have had to pull XPAG engine out of my 53 TD > > Cylinder head rebuilt formerly by a real amateur - used different diameter > valves in every cylinder. Found this because the head gasket gave out and > water got in oil. > > Now to clean the engine block water passages & seperately oil passages > need your collective advise. > > Is it wise to use phosphoric acid in the water galleys? Does it have to > be neutralized afterwards and with what solution? Or is it enough just to > massively flush out the acid? > > Is it better to use a caustic solution such as sodium hydroxide (Draino > crystals) - and does this need to be neutralized or just flushed? > > I read about some passage way that needs cleaning behind one of the freeze > plugs - any info on this? > > How much does the engine weigh? > > Is it safe to lift it with the head bolts without doing damage to the head > bolts? > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/ted@the-jacksons.ca ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 16 08:55:30 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8E5CA4044C for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 08:55:30 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from elasmtp-curtail.atl.sa.earthlink.net (elasmtp-curtail.atl.sa.earthlink.net [209.86.89.64]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 075934042A; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 08:55:23 -0700 (MST) DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=dk20050327; d=earthlink.net; b=CQtU/PXABtzEA5oC+4Vt8azok2s1gNDdtAimVJjFojphBvbNMNADk8InJqpojDk5; h=Received:Subject:Mime-Version:Content-Type:From:In-Reply-To:Date:Cc:Content-Transfer-Encoding:Message-Id:References:To:X-Mailer:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP; Received: from [99.17.30.57] (helo=[192.168.1.33]) by elasmtp-curtail.atl.sa.earthlink.net with esmtpa (Exim 4.67) (envelope-from ) id 1U6k0h-0003VG-Nc; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 10:49:07 -0500 From: John Seim Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 07:49:06 -0800 References: <31976.19e95851.3e50b9de@aol.com> To: PopeyMike@aol.com Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net, healeys@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net, Midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Engine cleaning - need Help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Disconnect radiator hoses, before flushing engine. You could use phosphoric acid, just wash out with lots of water afterwards. Or, you could use oxalic acid. Again, wash out with lots of water afterwards. Or, just pressure wash. Raised water passage with two small core plugs, has a hole that passes into main water gallery. This generally is blocked. At bottom of back of opening. About a 3/16" drill opening. If you lift with the cylinder studs, no problem. John Seim Irvine, CA On Feb 16, 2013, at 2:30 AM, PopeyMike@aol.com wrote: > Have had to pull XPAG engine out of my 53 TD > > Cylinder head rebuilt formerly by a real amateur - used different diameter > valves in every cylinder. Found this because the head gasket gave out and > water got in oil. > > Now to clean the engine block water passages & seperately oil passages > need your collective advise. > > Is it wise to use phosphoric acid in the water galleys? Does it have to > be neutralized afterwards and with what solution? Or is it enough just to > massively flush out the acid? > > Is it better to use a caustic solution such as sodium hydroxide (Draino > crystals) - and does this need to be neutralized or just flushed? > > I read about some passage way that needs cleaning behind one of the freeze > plugs - any info on this? > > How much does the engine weigh? > > Is it safe to lift it with the head bolts without doing damage to the head > bolts? > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 16 09:10:15 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0D70840448 for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 09:10:15 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from elasmtp-banded.atl.sa.earthlink.net (elasmtp-banded.atl.sa.earthlink.net [209.86.89.70]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A68824043A for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 09:10:10 -0700 (MST) DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=dk20050327; d=earthlink.net; b=gV9l3k2arfjd1aicBFYL1xOcnVw+wfCzzjEiY+3Jlbu1g3pfVD1zk8qxiMk/WO2j; h=Received:Subject:Mime-Version:Content-Type:From:In-Reply-To:Date:Cc:Content-Transfer-Encoding:Message-Id:References:To:X-Mailer:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP; Received: from [99.17.30.57] (helo=[192.168.1.33]) by elasmtp-banded.atl.sa.earthlink.net with esmtpa (Exim 4.67) (envelope-from ) id 1U6kF3-0001Jg-2b; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 11:03:57 -0500 From: John Seim Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 08:03:56 -0800 References: To: gunnellj tds.net Cc: Mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Restoration Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Nothing really needed to separate the rear fenders from the rear apron. I use a neoprene washer between the rear fender mount, and the chassis bracket. Bolt the fender to the top mount in the body tub, and the one going into the side of the tub first. Then secure to the bracket. Afterwards, you can secure the rest of the rear fender, tightening bolts from the top rear point forward. Have never ordered the Moss Bolt kits, so don't know what to tell you. Major body runner kit is fine. Do not order Suspension rubber kit as well, as A-arm bushing & seal kit is also included in the major body rubber kit. Also, you might want to opt for urethane A-arm bushings over standard rubber. Fender piping. I believe that 10 yards comes in the piping kit. Grommet kit is OK, as you get most of the grommets that you need. The ones in the front fenders, where the wires pass through are not included. G-723 grommet, 3/4" x 1/2" is available from most hardware stores. Hillman group fasteners. I have used West Marine's 2 part epoxy, for some minor wood repair. Sets up in five minutes. If the latch pillar moves, you would be better off replacing it. John Seim Irvine, CA On Feb 15, 2013, at 7:48 PM, gunnellj tds.net wrote: > Wow, i was at the body shop today and the '52 MG TD looked like a car for > the first time in a long time. The shop owners is asking me questions and I > guess it's time to order some parts, too. > > First question - Is there a spacer or anything between the rear fenders and > their mounting bracket on the frame that keeps them from rubbing against > the rear "gravel pan?" We can't see anything in the Moss Catalog or shop > manual. The second MG (hot rod) has round rubber washers or grommets on > both sides of one rear fender, but we don't know if the car is "factory." > > Second question: > > A) Are Moss "bolt kits" worthg ordering? Which ones? What don't the kits > include? > B) Same question for the major body rubber kit ? > C) How about body beading? How much does a typical restoration require? > C) What else? > > Third question: > > Anyone have experience with a product call RSP (Rapid Setting Polyester) > which was once the hot ticket in the old-car hobby for fixing cars with > wood in them. We have some relatively minor rot at bottom of the right-hand > front latch pillar. Wondering is we couldn't just use RSP? > > > John Gunnell > Iola, WI > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 16 10:12:40 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B87A3403F9 for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 10:12:40 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from nm19-vm0.access.bullet.mail.mud.yahoo.com (nm19-vm0.access.bullet.mail.mud.yahoo.com [66.94.236.25]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id EA78F4052A for ; Sat, 16 Feb 2013 10:12:33 -0700 (MST) Received: from [66.94.237.127] by nm19.access.bullet.mail.mud.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 16 Feb 2013 17:06:19 -0000 Received: from [98.139.221.55] by tm2.access.bullet.mail.mud.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 16 Feb 2013 17:06:19 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by smtp108.sbc.mail.bf1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 16 Feb 2013 17:06:19 -0000 a44mHQfJkYXxfaQjcC1QkK5hkKARZqYWiubWCVjXsAnj68wZDvbbfRb9wbT2 W_ToAOmEfDIYsEmQ5coKkHtVRGSBkYtF488PVMIjmUOJc.3.7wkLfHE5GTnw bxDKaM_BwbKL7o4igqeCbcG6PXmEYUMsznbMT_gSkuycm1fnehuysaZ.qRc5 UrVLqvZI4PX55K3W2rDKqCtm7I11DQaZcJeSzTs2s9O8BxENMjK.ZK341W_U 9jyRLzCPjX0pmZ7OrzwtmuixtRoxAPJy2FggU8cJCS.u9CksrF25.P48e3Ep oqpweSHQ_sLD7RDwr1qv5_37UJbS2a1Opo.CVbg.hl5.KzW8waz6RkXbldqo MYi.hIUNHd0ZV1WMNVzh.tFbR7EiieFCVBn17yjb4hIWo3QFqpeLxvPVDKgy rVBMJyIJWtcLbUw9G5YuW.CDN6egI02fvHiO7rVMkXnp0BqUOO4LRy2.SsC1 XbSXcE3qLPV26v0hTsUCbKrBlJRLDbpv1uCIUey.WU4SU2hmQfzbYg8svjlv 2r9m3lCi5o_ySwWogxNfotsYNcek8xtGAIle_KKpFRNGaCdD3S_iqujgQY5y Ts_Gj3iGH5s8- Received: from [192.168.1.65] (mike@99.74.35.122 with plain) by smtp108.sbc.mail.bf1.yahoo.com with SMTP; 16 Feb 2013 09:06:19 -0800 PST From: Duvall Video Productions Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 11:06:14 -0600 References: To: mg-t@autox.team.net, "gunnellj tds.net" Subject: [Mg-t] West Marine Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net John, I've used the West epoxy for a number repairs on my 36 TA wood. It is stronger than wood. www.jamestowndistributors.com has every version of epoxy you can imagine. "Gflex" 655 is what I used which is the thicker stuff. You can also purchase fibre additives but I found the hardness and bonding to be so strong you don't need to add fibers. I did small repairs and also cut new ends to pieces and lapped them to the original frame to repair ends. They sell the thinner materials to inject into wood as well. Jamestown and West Marine have great videos on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTDFF1Vb_2I Epoxy is not good for your skin so wear gloves. Mike On Feb 16, 2013, at 10:10 AM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote: > Anyone have experience with a product call RSP (Rapid Setting Polyester) > which was once the hot ticket in the old-car hobby for fixing cars with > wood in them. We have some relatively minor rot at bottom of the right-hand > front latch pillar. Wondering is we couldn't just use RSP? ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Feb 17 20:47:45 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id F096440560 for ; Sun, 17 Feb 2013 20:47:44 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from imr-db01.mx.aol.com (imr-db01.mx.aol.com [205.188.91.95]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6176C4052F for ; Sun, 17 Feb 2013 20:47:31 -0700 (MST) Received: from mtaomg-da01.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-da01.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.51.137]) by imr-db01.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id 39B7838000086; Sun, 17 Feb 2013 22:41:09 -0500 (EST) Received: from core-dtc005c.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-dtc005.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.163.17]) by mtaomg-da01.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id D6BD6E000082; Sun, 17 Feb 2013 22:41:08 -0500 (EST) From: PopeyMike@aol.com Full-name: PopeyMike Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 22:41:08 -0500 (EST) To: kingseim@earthlink.net x-aol-global-disposition: G s=20121107; t=1361158869; bh=UfnKWmZH05gJlwWn/O06/7tervC0k7uuU3vUl/XKuYw=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=fXT1zj3p5W4oosYNo+22ApvoDxWOgFLAVEmp/Lr26x4Nn64EGi0Lw9VEartJxkTaU MQCoBYo7WiZnJM2GqaEEaiyoxLUUTg5SwdO9VDk/BAC3tVKY6+eExnEt/l7fIK17dG OnF00MESumtzUa3DLhdnZwoUqOYAXZrGDTULh2Nc= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d33895121a2d413d4 Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net, healeys@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net, Midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Engine cleaning - need Help Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Some additional info: Thanks all for the quick response - very generous and good quality - I washed it with Evaporust - seemed to do a very adequate job. However to avoid any other problems I rented and engine hoist and after taking out the engine set it on my bathroom scale. Minus the head but all else intact - the engine was 217 lbs. Like you I had thought it would tip the scales at 400- 500 - and actually I can still lift one side of it by myself. That should have been the big indicator - I could never lift 250. However I am glad I rented the lift ($40.00 all weekend) for it was easier to move around and take out by myself - otherwise I would have had to run up and down the street begging someone to give a hand and that would have cost me some beers. This way I had more for myself. I will continue to throw out questions as I now must tackle the cleaning of the oil side. Below I am resting with my Lefty Thanks Michael Balahutrak 53 TD Houston In a message dated 2/16/2013 9:49:10 A.M. Central Standard Time, kingseim@earthlink.net writes: Disconnect radiator hoses, before flushing engine. You could use phosphoric acid, just wash out with lots of water afterwards. Or, you could use oxalic acid. Again, wash out with lots of water afterwards. Or, just pressure wash. Raised water passage with two small core plugs, has a hole that passes into main water gallery. This generally is blocked. At bottom of back of opening. About a 3/16" drill opening. If you lift with the cylinder studs, no problem. John Seim Irvine, CA On Feb 16, 2013, at 2:30 AM, PopeyMike@aol.com wrote: > Have had to pull XPAG engine out of my 53 TD > > Cylinder head rebuilt formerly by a real amateur - used different diameter > valves in every cylinder. Found this because the head gasket gave out and > water got in oil. > > Now to clean the engine block water passages & seperately oil passages > need your collective advise. > > Is it wise to use phosphoric acid in the water galleys? Does it have to > be neutralized afterwards and with what solution? Or is it enough just to > massively flush out the acid? > > Is it better to use a caustic solution such as sodium hydroxide (Draino > crystals) - and does this need to be neutralized or just flushed? > > I read about some passage way that needs cleaning behind one of the freeze > plugs - any info on this? > > How much does the engine weigh? > > Is it safe to lift it with the head bolts without doing damage to the head > bolts? > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 18 11:35:18 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id AB8C84053B for ; Mon, 18 Feb 2013 11:35:18 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from imr-ma04.mx.aol.com (imr-ma04.mx.aol.com [64.12.206.42]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8936740536 for ; Mon, 18 Feb 2013 11:35:12 -0700 (MST) Received: from mtaomg-db05.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-db05.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.51.203]) by imr-ma04.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id ECB711C00022D; Mon, 18 Feb 2013 13:28:48 -0500 (EST) Received: from core-dtc005c.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-dtc005.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.163.17]) by mtaomg-db05.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id B6EACE00008D; Mon, 18 Feb 2013 13:28:48 -0500 (EST) From: PopeyMike@aol.com Full-name: PopeyMike Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 13:28:48 -0500 (EST) To: mgbob@juno.com, gunnellj@tds.net x-aol-global-disposition: G s=20121107; t=1361212128; bh=FydC388pVdmJwN3w4Y9vW/9s8zbnNGM0r6svNOez+kY=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=gVzarkaopoiWffma82t4waQllPX/0dmYUrWGLqLRRJ2rN/sT5S4sVAnwTqimQm0ap YtC3ZZvLA1VuXSUxIL9SZnmzmj3QGuR7Asnfrf3oP4fqLR/a1Ian7vaqvmCzc0lm1z 5Pnm2kqnwCmYp230DDgjGx6dSo4uAIuF6ii/0PPs= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d33cb512272e05093 Cc: Mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Restoration Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Greetings: In redoing my rear splash pan - I did the unthinkable and deviated from originality by using nylon spacers - they are stiff and strong and do not rust and the bolts were BS because I had to go out and get special ones. Michael 53 TD Houston In a message dated 2/16/2013 7:06:07 A.M. Central Standard Time, mgbob@juno.com writes: Hi John, There were several (two or three) spacer washers between rear wing and the body that spaced the wing away from the valence. These cars are not identical, so you can use spacers as needed to achieve the 1/8 clearance mine has. I don't know about the bolt kit. Fortunately, all the original fastenings, other than those for the running boards, are sound. The rubber kit question. Two members in our club have bought the kit within the past couple of years. It appears that some of the rubber bits are excellent, but some are oversize and clumsy looking. For my project, I am re-using some of the original rubber and getting what I must from Moss. Beading/welting. I ordered from Moss, whatever it is they have in the package. The others in the club who bought Moss welting found that there was not the smaller welting needed for the front splash pan. I may have to get it made, as the large size used for body to wing attachment looks clumsy. I do not know the RSP product, but have had very successful results in some marine applications with a product named Git-Rot. It penetrates then saturates the punky wood, then hardens into a tough plastic that resembles the plastic of screwdriver handles. Drill and tap, as needed. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "gunnellj tds.net" To: Mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] Restoration Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 21:48:21 -0600 Wow, i was at the body shop today and the '52 MG TD looked like a car for the first time in a long time. The shop owners is asking me questions and I guess it's time to order some parts, too. First question - Is there a spacer or anything between the rear fenders and their mounting bracket on the frame that keeps them from rubbing against the rear "gravel pan?" We can't see anything in the Moss Catalog or shop manual. The second MG (hot rod) has round rubber washers or grommets on both sides of one rear fender, but we don't know if the car is "factory." Second question: A) Are Moss "bolt kits" worthg ordering? Which ones? What don't the kits include? B) Same question for the major body rubber kit ? C) How about body beading? How much does a typical restoration require? C) What else? Third question: Anyone have experience with a product call RSP (Rapid Setting Polyester) which was once the hot ticket in the old-car hobby for fixing cars with wood in them. We have some relatively minor rot at bottom of the right-hand front latch pillar. Wondering is we couldn't just use RSP? John Gunnell Iola, WI ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob@juno.com ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/popeymike@aol.com ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Feb 18 23:57:36 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 4D9F740569 for ; Mon, 18 Feb 2013 23:57:36 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from imr-ma06.mx.aol.com (imr-ma06.mx.aol.com [64.12.78.142]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id BB91E4043B for ; Mon, 18 Feb 2013 23:54:40 -0700 (MST) Received: from mtaomg-ma02.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-ma02.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.41.9]) by imr-ma06.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id 82F9B1C0000BE; Tue, 19 Feb 2013 01:48:14 -0500 (EST) Received: from core-dtc005c.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-dtc005.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.163.17]) by mtaomg-ma02.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id 2D0BDE000081; Tue, 19 Feb 2013 01:48:14 -0500 (EST) From: PopeyMike@aol.com Full-name: PopeyMike Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 01:48:14 -0500 (EST) To: shop@justbrits.com, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net x-aol-global-disposition: G s=20121107; t=1361256494; bh=4W7k8veKm4t4sycjFk59I4dZCSH3wrNw3rbK+LT1X1I=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=usC7OxBE3uckVcLCeM2SAWRL0Gc8hoYHlxz04gYKwRoDVmOpkBragFFW//W+fmvGD pKSogO/JO0hPpQwVGswScSG8FSBkXbKEMM+UuUMwPgsiCUxxX04xA24kD160WmUxsB u7gT5LiTxU0ejR6MtYD2XSmnWAkNwjxz4SDHlS9s= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d29095123202e0aa6 Subject: [Mg-t] #2 - Timing chain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Gentlemen: The response was so great last time that I am back for more help. Note the shinny surfaces on the edges of the chain it is wear - is this excessive? Note the position of the tensioner - does this indicate a stretched chain? It appears that maybe the chain is stretched when comparing it to pictures in the books. Looked at the buggered head of the bolt holding the sprocket on the cam. Previous mechanic was Where necessary I replace bolts - except for head bolts is it correct to assume that all the other bolts are standard no special grade designation .?? Michael Balahutrak 53 TD ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 19 08:52:36 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0EB374064C for ; Tue, 19 Feb 2013 08:52:36 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from nm30-vm0.access.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com (nm30-vm0.access.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com [98.139.44.194]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B36804041D for ; Tue, 19 Feb 2013 08:52:08 -0700 (MST) Received: from [98.139.44.103] by nm30.access.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 19 Feb 2013 15:45:40 -0000 Received: from [67.195.22.118] by tm8.access.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 19 Feb 2013 15:45:40 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by smtp113.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 19 Feb 2013 15:45:40 -0000 s=s1024; t=1361288740; bh=xL+WKnmkQGnRTR/jQJlfwZ4k7i9DQtrT6DFo4slvYDI=; h=X-Yahoo-Newman-Id:X-Yahoo-Newman-Property:X-YMail-OSG:X-Yahoo-SMTP:Received:Content-Type:Mime-Version:Subject:From:In-Reply-To:Date:Cc:Content-Transfer-Encoding:Message-Id:References:To:X-Mailer; b=wma1u+meMQcZPy6XlE7OlYAsH5fxaIYLrHdM6cNtEUFtBW/kEzANQ2dqrP9aOj5kc+Baf41k9WBWTohYT7pqtdxjRFaQhsgSJvipHgupZP9ZNmLgd2L8nuK1cKg9F7RSiM2m7O3jH5kozNh7Mmh17gKrZ1sa1UX5GC+nJDoC6bU= bR9ITnFHwJDQ0uegkmt4Snsqkv2.6zNdZLQ5kZfQI4tENgXo7DwnEs5tCj4K UsRoKjJJOgXe1buvkwxRV2Su5EEBTXMF69SCbNVO6ApeUhkmGKL3E_IIGbRM q.PwESskpOb8izP.Bul_eoI1FRPjkhPtjPzhMATMc9SlS987gwmODCmqhWr6 qp5e590eEFPrEyeI4o13Hz3to9u2wcMXeW4PKv6AfzNpnbtAPVa9WmXx8W5A hfABBIG_N63W5HP0ti.pouIDYBsSj4VHyqCqCPViUmEYUP_hVjNk8LQ2HBO0 2.bQRlutduiiveTl5l8r2AOb0tHJ50NHJyIoRDVEvu_orhC8r5KFMDdzDyZb RRMUBrxOzgJ4WNGzSSAbSHq1a53oth.E3EnEssTyNuosPQM6alJM- Received: from [192.168.1.65] (anngene@99.113.249.17 with plain) by smtp113.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with SMTP; 19 Feb 2013 07:45:40 -0800 PST From: Gene Gillam Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 09:45:39 -0600 References: <287b2.5cd62a26.3e547a2d@aol.com> To: PopeyMike@aol.com Cc: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mg-t] #2 - Timing chain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mike, Nothing attached that I can see. Gene On Feb 19, 2013, at 12:48 AM, PopeyMike@aol.com wrote: > Gentlemen: > > The response was so great last time that I am back for more help. > > Note the shinny surfaces on the edges of the chain it is wear - is this > excessive? > > Note the position of the tensioner - does this indicate a stretched chain? > > > > > > > It appears that maybe the chain is stretched when comparing it to pictures > in the books. > > Looked at the buggered head of the bolt holding the sprocket on the cam. > Previous mechanic was > > Where necessary I replace bolts - except for head bolts is it correct to > assume that all the other bolts are standard no special grade designation .?? > > > Michael Balahutrak > 53 TD > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/anngene@bellsouth.net ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 19 09:08:13 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8B81140E41 for ; Tue, 19 Feb 2013 09:08:13 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from oproxy12-pub.bluehost.com (oproxy12-pub.bluehost.com [50.87.16.10]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with SMTP id D217740E27 for ; Tue, 19 Feb 2013 09:06:00 -0700 (MST) Received: (qmail 24863 invoked by uid 0); 19 Feb 2013 15:59:27 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO box609.bluehost.com) (70.40.220.109) by oproxy12.bluehost.com with SMTP; 19 Feb 2013 15:59:27 -0000 d=justbrits.com; s=default; h=Content-Type:In-Reply-To:References:Subject:CC:MIME-Version:From:Date:Message-ID; bh=cMHUK3UYWm+20LKPbT3H0ALUWyOaPw7W0l7nkNi+/Kc=; b=pYSwfpbzEd3UPCrR6T0U9mYt9zQTB0vK3B5Gs1KSWuW/MZPSV58iIMuScdgrfB+AipS7f3OzzqhfXF1wl7USFQwCz7uGKlJD7ruCXTWfjhNQMJbUaue4rqzo2Asne1MP; Received: from [24.15.13.164] (port=35965 helo=[192.168.0.106]) by box609.bluehost.com with esmtpa (Exim 4.80) (envelope-from ) id 1U7pbL-0002hp-48; Tue, 19 Feb 2013 08:59:27 -0700 Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 09:59:29 -0600 From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107 Thunderbird/17.0.2 References: <287b2.5cd62a26.3e547a2d@aol.com> {sentby:smtp auth 24.15.13.164 authed with sales@justbrits.com} Cc: 4 - MGs , mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mg-t] #2 - Timing chain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net << On 2/19/2013 9:45 AM, Gene Gillam wrote: Nothing attached that I can see. >> Can't attach anything for posting to the List, Gene ( & Mike ?) ! ! And YOU should know better ! LOL ! Ed PS: Mike, if you would like to have me put up on my site, just send the pics. PPS: I didn't see Mike's post either ? ! ? ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Feb 19 09:17:20 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 462B240E3E for ; Tue, 19 Feb 2013 09:17:20 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from nm11-vm0.access.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com (nm11-vm0.access.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com [98.139.44.124]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B13DE40E33 for ; Tue, 19 Feb 2013 09:17:16 -0700 (MST) Received: from [98.139.44.105] by nm11.access.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 19 Feb 2013 16:10:46 -0000 Received: from [67.195.22.119] by tm10.access.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 19 Feb 2013 16:10:46 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by smtp114.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 19 Feb 2013 16:10:46 -0000 s=s1024; t=1361290245; bh=n84M2l/BZJ8lmiBqr073kItqzRDitHZ4Pc7xweTFyHc=; h=X-Yahoo-Newman-Id:X-Yahoo-Newman-Property:X-YMail-OSG:X-Yahoo-SMTP:Received:Content-Type:Mime-Version:Subject:From:In-Reply-To:Date:Cc:Content-Transfer-Encoding:Message-Id:References:To:X-Mailer; b=jbZSwVEAU5BEsTNSi+OZ5iWY70mQTJJSTZVnH2AEUyCHXSJfIhrzqqk+pgchiq2t/1Jjah+wogeoQ9AKUi1j6OT3L3F6ypvKbWp1UNOYLXyMJFzjN980558dYzMsx27SsuwP8+qxa94792f6cRnBvKzZSwpKVbalXXIYDHqmk8w= eadcdA5Ld_P35ll2X_QvHBTAioIBEYNs4CxKFsejjqhXKiOeTrVMnWk3yD0X Tw6mJde4DRGG5hDicg9hk_jgiIMUXqQOpvlugCin3a_WDl1SYq5e_0OXXaWI sJv9g9EULdCvebAEieIDovI0ihV2GHtkz4wpHbrlnBjip0Egn38Pn6se6Wi7 rhUwLAuQEdBW0Tf4dEWw_.9KtH2FYkM13A8fzZI0w_6_S6UBvVhyiud_3Ras rf5LiR.NzlliZfIDtgDk2aZppBvzJg94Y0Z6zhvTeyhkCE5XFK_PDKs4g7RL spstIzs4NTwApmBdoA4r.cFR4RzV0BgZBbfsR5iz25PICXVe55hOr16A24Lg hbIFEP8SqUhkFDuw7cWOIUh8xaP_rWUUmEzvtB.7B09Sx5dCZG_yEbMGv5Uq Ed5nwfAUQqQeDk6sH5xw3ZUAbO50- Received: from [192.168.1.65] (anngene@99.113.249.17 with plain) by smtp114.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com with SMTP; 19 Feb 2013 08:10:45 -0800 PST From: Gene Gillam Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 10:10:45 -0600 References: <287b2.5cd62a26.3e547a2d@aol.com> <5123A161.6060702@justbrits.com> To: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" Cc: 4 - MGs , mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mg-t] #2 - Timing chain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net GrinI do know betterjust wasn't thinking. Gene On Feb 19, 2013, at 9:59 AM, "\" Just Brits \" Shop" wrote: > << On 2/19/2013 9:45 AM, Gene Gillam wrote: > > Nothing attached that I can see. >> > > Can't attach anything for posting to the List, Gene ( & Mike ?) ! ! > > And YOU should know better ! LOL ! > > Ed > > PS: Mike, if you would like to have me put up on my site, just send > the pics. > PPS: I didn't see Mike's post either ? ! ? > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/anngene@bellsouth.net ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Feb 22 10:04:59 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7D82E4249B for ; Fri, 22 Feb 2013 10:04:59 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from imr-ma02.mx.aol.com (imr-ma02.mx.aol.com [64.12.206.40]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0B539403E7 for ; Fri, 22 Feb 2013 10:02:30 -0700 (MST) Received: from mtaomg-ma03.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-ma03.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.41.10]) by imr-ma02.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id 1C3D21C000051 for ; Fri, 22 Feb 2013 11:55:48 -0500 (EST) Received: from core-dta005a.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-dta005.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.162.145]) by mtaomg-ma03.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id E4B37E00008C for ; Fri, 22 Feb 2013 11:55:47 -0500 (EST) From: PopeyMike@aol.com Full-name: PopeyMike Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 11:55:47 -0500 (EST) To: mg-t@autox.team.net x-aol-global-disposition: G s=20121107; t=1361552148; bh=4jgXY4lpGCQ1rWniiSZRX5iAqbe7nfadeyGUP8hHNhQ=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=pRRGLgaI4MFdlVug9zc3kPR56bdetYgyERAMuo1G6GY/J4Q+Vl25F0zDM+bjxdnr8 7y4cF5+XRrd4oA2SY9iUIeDiYQbAiXOE9wSl/F9jLwPVU7i6jqz91fUD3x6Vu700ue LKxVNqGUrRcsxqtgN/tB3S5tTRBsdD8Bw+riZnRE= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d290a5127a31352d8 Subject: [Mg-t] Engine internals Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Removing the oil pan found bottom 2" full of thick gunk and no oil - probably where most of oil problems were originating. The oil suction dip tube and screen were removed and found blocked with red silicone gasketing material. 1. All is cleaned up. But when the screen cup is reinstalled should the lip at the top have a rubber o-ring to seal it from the suction dome and minimize vibration? 2. The main journal bearing original is 52mm current main bearing +.010" ~ +0.254mm _____________________________________ combined 51.746mm Current Crank main dia 51.72 Yielding Diametric clearance 0.026 mm Acceptable is 0.020 to 0.075mm according to Horst Schach here is where the problem starts - the mains show a little minor wear that can be dressed up with polishing -so should I just polish and install new same size +0.010" main bearing or choose to grind and resize for new +0.020" main bearings?? 3. The connecting rod bearings similar problem but more delicate Original 45 mm Current rod bearing +0.030" ~ 0.762 mm ___________________________________________ Combined 44.238 mm Current crank rod dia 44.14 Yielding Diametric clearance 0.098 mm Acceptable is 0.11 to 0.056mm according to Horst Schach would you recommend just polishing or installing bigger +0.040 rod bearings 4. Has anyone used the Volvo seal solution for the front with success?? 5. Since I am short on funds and looking for work - I do not want to do the rear screw Archimedes seal - but it shows no signs of leaking after 12,000 miles - so I plan to leave it alone unless someone can recommend a cheap solution that will improve the odds that I will not have leaks. Thanks everyone that has responded on my other problems. MIchael Balahutrak 53 TD engine #10525 Houston, TX ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Feb 23 06:55:03 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id B149840440 for ; Sat, 23 Feb 2013 06:55:03 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from outbound-mail02.vgs.untd.com (outbound-mail02.vgs.untd.com [64.136.55.36]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with SMTP id AE28D40422 for ; Sat, 23 Feb 2013 06:54:58 -0700 (MST) s=alpha; t=1361627290; bh=47DEQpj8HBSa+/TImW+5JCeuQeRkm5NMpJWZG3hSuFU=; l=0; h=From:Date:To:Subject:Message-Id:Content-Type; b=EnWyzDwHdhMKRo2z6bHuxl8AwSvta2EvW4ZJELFJWA7RarrAK/k3fdTVu5xzyTTEt GmgVNpRFfAORDtyIcd2QwciVa2aCS7figGTeiOjhhldvNzkoMOeozpIaCRx7OimIUb IgVQv+C9Yf6h8y8pqGXDq/rsKjiO0TFSmarOoZTc= Received: from outbound-bu1.vgs.untd.com (webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com [10.181.12.103]) by smtpout04.vgs.untd.com with SMTP id AABJUTUDLAKJBTLJ for (sender ); Sat, 23 Feb 2013 05:47:22 -0800 (PST) Received: from [108.88.216.197] by webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com with HTTP: Sat, 23 Feb 2013 13:46:52 GMT From: "mgbob@juno.com" Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2013 13:46:52 GMT To: mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Engine internals Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net There are those who refuse to use detergent oils, presumably because the TDs were not filled with them at Abingdon. The sludge and asphalt found in the sumps can usually be attributed to this obsolete oil. That the screen was blocked with red silicone does not speak well of the engine rebuilder. Rubber o ring might be useful. I've never seen it done, though, and I don't think of vibration there being a problem. I would stay with the 010 mains. Removing metal is something I prefer to avoid. Rod journals are a more difficult decision. You have measured them. I would try Plastigage too, just to check the measurements. My concern is that XPAG cranks are prone to cracking, and the most vulnerable place is at rod journals. The cause is thought to be tight radius. My preference is, again, to avoid removing metal, especially here, as the radius can't easily be relieved, to use 20-50 oil, and to watch its temperature. I am interested to read other thoughts on this question. I recommend having the crankshaft checked for cracks before you invest more effort. The "ring" test is not sufficient for these-- mine rang perfectly with its visible crack at #2 rod. Replacement of front seal is easy. I forget now whose seal I used, but it's quick, cheap, easy and effective. I stuck with original type of rear seal. It does drip, perhaps a quarter-size drip at the end of a long run. That's more than some that have the lip seal conversion and less(a lot less) than some that have it. Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: PopeyMike@aol.com To: mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] Engine internals Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 11:55:47 -0500 (EST) Removing the oil pan found bottom 2" full of thick gunk and no oil - probably where most of oil problems were originating. The oil suction dip tube and screen were removed and found blocked with red silicone gasketing material. 1. All is cleaned up. But when the screen cup is reinstalled should the lip at the top have a rubber o-ring to seal it from the suction dome and minimize vibration? 2. The main journal bearing original is 52mm current main bearing +.010" ~ +0.254mm _____________________________________ combined 51.746mm Current Crank main dia 51.72 Yielding Diametric clearance 0.026 mm Acceptable is 0.020 to 0.075mm according to Horst Schach here is where the problem starts - the mains show a little minor wear that can be dressed up with polishing -so should I just polish and install new same size +0.010" main bearing or choose to grind and resize for new +0.020" main bearings?? 3. The connecting rod bearings similar problem but more delicate Original 45 mm Current rod bearing +0.030" ~ 0.762 mm ___________________________________________ Combined 44.238 mm Current crank rod dia 44.14 Yielding Diametric clearance 0.098 mm Acceptable is 0.11 to 0.056mm according to Horst Schach would you recommend just polishing or installing bigger +0.040 rod bearings 4. Has anyone used the Volvo seal solution for the front with success?? 5. Since I am short on funds and looking for work - I do not want to do the rear screw Archimedes seal - but it shows no signs of leaking after 12,000 miles - so I plan to leave it alone unless someone can recommend a cheap solution that will improve the odds that I will not have leaks. Thanks everyone that has responded on my other problems. MIchael Balahutrak 53 TD engine #10525 Houston, TX ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive