From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Mar 1 12:46:47 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 2AE4B426D8 for ; Fri, 1 Mar 2013 12:46:47 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from mail-vc0-f175.google.com (mail-vc0-f175.google.com [209.85.220.175]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 60E88424C7; Fri, 1 Mar 2013 12:25:00 -0700 (MST) Received: by mail-vc0-f175.google.com with SMTP id p1so1600628vcq.20 for ; Fri, 01 Mar 2013 11:17:43 -0800 (PST) s=20120113; h=mime-version:x-received:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; bh=5leDVXVeehwFH29+ZDI/pZLNTfKyW3+8xSqEPRjTT2g=; b=QN+YF+LEzdeURKgmk4EU7ffnse8lbPhzCB9F7UTUv2wyYrGPrrBlafEUHJMmBpu51Q LFqMVHQ1dCBJfPl6rL1eyX9Kcp1mB4HT7WLinT1NDKeM4lxWw8EQb5ChBn0cqgCxti6e gPib6oESrsUXvh+/fa553U0tUOv2F99q/hPAULVr/BdiY9OmZiorsRkwb9qHb7HtOXDL D5El7lAhsnganF3ad1ueoY1VRvXoudMqJz7ZM26hHrntbJa5gLnelz6CCBsOI8pI4geL KSjpA6tGmo1/lMXFMBI6aSH9J6JujfGkHkbu2+8SyH4Yogl9RpkA8ZfX7WZJZkUIutFF Je0Q== i15mr4402877vcu.15.1362165463399; Fri, 01 Mar 2013 11:17:43 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.58.231.131 with HTTP; Fri, 1 Mar 2013 11:17:43 -0800 (PST) Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2013 13:17:43 -0600 From: Richard Lindsay To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] Weight of a t-series body Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Hello Friends, Rick Lindsay here with a new e-mail address. Question for those wise in the ways of science; What is the approximate weight of a t-series car's body, stripped of trim, wings, running boards, dash, seats, etc.? I am about to buy an electric hoist for moving engines off of my engine stand (The lotus engine on there now is now too heavy for other options) and I'd like to make sure the unit is beefy enough to handle a TD body, as described above. Thanks. -rick ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Mar 1 13:59:54 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id DB8CD4283B for ; Fri, 1 Mar 2013 13:59:54 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from mail-qe0-f41.google.com (mail-qe0-f41.google.com [209.85.128.41]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E67E140E40; Fri, 1 Mar 2013 13:38:17 -0700 (MST) Received: by mail-qe0-f41.google.com with SMTP id 6so2658044qeb.28 for ; Fri, 01 Mar 2013 12:30:59 -0800 (PST) h=x-received:references:mime-version:in-reply-to:content-type :content-transfer-encoding:message-id:cc:x-mailer:from:subject:date :to; bh=YL+CjKznLopoubwR+kYM1xUJ+emNa6jUxi9MqrgPK6g=; b=mA/pNl5qbqSlM/ynnaCMOC60XV9qTMLbo6Vk/fmN7Wm3fx7bGuNBj9rTiTjNh+UFos Xmq16zOxXj0KKtFGdAwgovCzWEU7mzH63uUj3R5+DV5aU1+5yeuf2BefC75thpo7llnp 4Yxcpj44+i6LmsotIl9IYzhy1BBqYkfSS+snQQUmdrTATJTfhIad5obtGPG2kxQLj4rO tWUq4OhjpFkDIs2pAi5PAlgiR4MDijG9cyMbqCUt9Yi33VjKL1mjLQZQVwYtSTXJuAon mH2rGsezINjtMK/wWVz4MrhX/CYkAWYwptag7njFaemVzUnrEhCGcwJQ0SclCcIDwIn8 x3cQ== lf1mr20324185qeb.14.1362169859867; Fri, 01 Mar 2013 12:30:59 -0800 (PST) Received: from [10.253.25.210] (188.sub-174-254-176.myvzw.com. [174.254.176.188]) by mx.google.com with ESMTPS id eb7sm9117193qab.11.2013.03.01.12.30.55 (version=TLSv1 cipher=ECDHE-RSA-RC4-SHA bits=128/128); Fri, 01 Mar 2013 12:30:59 -0800 (PST) References: From: Blair Weiss Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2013 15:30:50 -0500 To: Richard Lindsay Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net" , "mg-t@autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Weight of a t-series body Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net You mean w/o frame... just the tub... Less than 100lbs... Blair Sent from my iPhone On Mar 1, 2013, at 2:17 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > Hello Friends, > > Rick Lindsay here with a new e-mail address. > > Question for those wise in the ways of science; What is the > approximate weight of a t-series car's body, stripped of trim, wings, > running boards, dash, seats, etc.? I am about to buy an electric > hoist for moving engines off of my engine stand (The lotus engine on > there now is now too heavy for other options) and I'd like to make > sure the unit is beefy enough to handle a TD body, as described above. > Thanks. > > -rick > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/blairweiss@gmail.com ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Mar 2 19:57:23 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 23BE6429B9 for ; Sat, 2 Mar 2013 19:57:23 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ee0-f51.google.com (mail-ee0-f51.google.com [74.125.83.51]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 4616740400 for ; Sat, 2 Mar 2013 19:35:20 -0700 (MST) Received: by mail-ee0-f51.google.com with SMTP id d17so3113204eek.10 for ; Sat, 02 Mar 2013 18:27:55 -0800 (PST) d=google.com; s=20120113; h=mime-version:x-received:date:message-id:subject:from:to:cc :content-type:x-gm-message-state; bh=SbrYFh05pPEG1pes6IR/FaZhwvGV+MpBJOq0kNuOu3A=; b=HSEJFqZPqnRzkMiZZXyPqJE4OL5RUJVRe/GKD7SVGbtnXokuxipHY8JqI3y0SJf529 IGaQa5yXDzlE0RAJVzz13NxunhNRBUzG7aQIeAaV7+VURzJkAoCqd0fuYEYAWMjwReJ2 J1oPqHC+4m/S+AIOBNOgcbVLprStKZeekknnpfmwqopTwi5xUY/pCa4w9KO3rMKB4hLZ 6enY4+7kPiBkDzPD8mVdF+pr0O0AeN6KXoHnROCfuNZUK4yUzfjeaFaiGIQkH2DOF+iQ 0/h+wf+A/z/rr3ivEO/FIosINbmltlxFiT2DioTO50DuGQj7pyg4vMLrQ7CLkfP3nXHD NJXA== Sat, 02 Mar 2013 18:27:55 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.15.23.69 with HTTP; Sat, 2 Mar 2013 18:27:55 -0800 (PST) Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2013 20:27:55 -0600 From: "gunnellj tds.net" To: mg-t@autox.team.net Cc: Jesse Gunnell Subject: [Mg-t] TF Wood Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net I removed the gas tank from my TF today in order to get at the two pieces of wood immediately behind the tank. These are the tank backboard (Moss 450-875) and the rear bottom rail (Moss 450-880). While i got the tank out, I could not get the spare tire support off the car. The center attachment is the problem. There are two brackets welded to the round frame rail. There is a specer tube between them. It appears that a single bolt passes through the brackets and the spacer. The bolt appears to be rusted to the spacer. The nut is off the bolt but I cannot pound the bolt out. I can turn the bolt but the spacer turns with it. Has anyone had a problem with this ans how did you solve it? I cannot find any of these parts in the Moss catalog, so I am not sure I'm describing things accurately. I am going to attempt replacement of the tank backboard and the rear bottom rail without taking the tub entirely apart. How can I slide the backboard in place. From the top? From the side? Any suggestions, ideas or advice? I'm sure it is going to take patience, but I think I can do it. As far as the bottom rail, what holds it in place once it is positioned across the frame? Thanks for any help -- "Gunner" John Gunnell PO Box 87 Iola, WI 54945 Ph: 715-445-4262 Cell: 715-281-5925 ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Mar 3 09:02:19 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id BA936424C7 for ; Sun, 3 Mar 2013 09:02:19 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from elasmtp-spurfowl.atl.sa.earthlink.net (elasmtp-spurfowl.atl.sa.earthlink.net [209.86.89.66]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E437F40454 for ; Sun, 3 Mar 2013 08:07:48 -0700 (MST) DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=dk20050327; d=earthlink.net; b=blefA5M3o57gaFlNNyVoR9GVir2QkS6ADU2D/3zqHX/fQA9LN1b8KZMMgjNgTSw1; h=Received:Subject:Mime-Version:Content-Type:From:In-Reply-To:Date:Cc:Content-Transfer-Encoding:Message-Id:References:To:X-Mailer:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP; Received: from [99.17.29.197] (helo=[192.168.1.33]) by elasmtp-spurfowl.atl.sa.earthlink.net with esmtpa (Exim 4.67) (envelope-from ) id 1UCAOi-0004Oz-5W; Sun, 03 Mar 2013 10:00:20 -0500 From: John Seim Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 07:00:19 -0800 References: To: gunnellj tds.net Cc: Jesse Gunnell , MG-T Group Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF Wood Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net John, I had the same problem with a TF. Ended up bending away one of the tabs of the spare tire carrier, to where I could get a hack saw blade in there, to cut the bolt. Think that I had to do the same on both sides of the tube, just to get the spare tire rack off. As to the backboard, and bottom rail, these were put together, then sheet metal added, to cover sections. You might want to take a look at the Horst Schach book on MG TD Restoration. Has one section that covers the body tub. John Seim Irvine, CA On Mar 2, 2013, at 6:27 PM, gunnellj tds.net wrote: > I removed the gas tank from my TF today in order to get at the two pieces > of wood immediately behind the tank. > > These are the tank backboard (Moss 450-875) and the rear bottom rail (Moss > 450-880). > > While i got the tank out, I could not get the spare tire support off the > car. The center attachment is the problem. There are two brackets welded to > the round frame rail. There is a specer tube between them. It appears that > a single bolt passes through the brackets and the spacer. The bolt appears > to be rusted to the spacer. The nut is off the bolt but I cannot pound the > bolt out. I can turn the bolt but the spacer turns with it. Has anyone had > a problem with this ans how did you solve it? I cannot find any of these > parts in the Moss catalog, so I am not sure I'm describing things > accurately. > > I am going to attempt replacement of the tank backboard and the rear bottom > rail without taking the tub entirely apart. How can I slide the backboard > in place. From the top? From the side? Any suggestions, ideas or advice? > I'm sure it is going to take patience, but I think I can do it. As far as > the bottom rail, what holds it in place once it is positioned across the > frame? > > Thanks for any help > > -- > > "Gunner" > > John Gunnell > PO Box 87 > Iola, WI 54945 > Ph: 715-445-4262 > Cell: 715-281-5925 > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Mar 3 22:38:14 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id A00364052F for ; Sun, 3 Mar 2013 22:38:14 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from QMTA11.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net (qmta11.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net [76.96.59.211]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 7D3AA4044B for ; Sun, 3 Mar 2013 22:16:34 -0700 (MST) Received: from omta15.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net ([76.96.62.87]) by QMTA11.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net with comcast id 7H4P1l0051swQuc5BH938P; Mon, 04 Mar 2013 05:09:03 +0000 Received: from [192.168.1.136] ([71.228.236.233]) by omta15.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net with comcast id 7H911l00c52pXB33bH931v; Mon, 04 Mar 2013 05:09:03 +0000 Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2013 23:09:13 -0600 From: Glenn Schnittke User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:8.0) Gecko/20111105 Thunderbird/8.0 To: mg-t@autox.team.net References: s=q20121106; t=1362373743; bh=LMiKTJKuRxxrSZnWryV3FVsJ5ZnYzGjuFx2HgtZlhd0=; h=Received:Received:Message-ID:Date:From:MIME-Version:To:Subject: Content-Type; b=ED4CY7PDP4BA96y7YhWnYJggIKr+aCz+YvFR1CHsVHKNOgnoNVvqY5LN4X40VyhAO DcRnMSJA6G+5Csv/ZTPvotKvIV4Pc/36bYGB1brDRqjvCNatUHLwMiOHeWkYY6gKau uRIcH7uk3yObKFc9E64veOmB5RK53NAs0SycDixXLEP1olVmUyDjxHyfnjmc54PKDd PlIGBCg81X76pisriAwbhJpQYqhl9+l2xJd+fl/0M3Y0i1xhRU3uttCKju0E6qok2h mvsPK5W6EoL9tE6i7GKB+qDMSQKLrtfnmKgfK0PdmQ7YA3TfigJdI2K37rk9rWC/zb +VrvTt9uzgN7Q== Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 15 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mix up a small amount of 50/50 ATF and acetone. Shake until pink and dribble it all over the spacer. Do it again tomorrow. After that has sunk in, try it again. I'm working on a TF now and I'll look at it tomorrow to look at access. If you can get a pair of vice-grips to the pacer that will help. The aforementioned concoction is a highly recommended penetrating oil. Since you're patient, if the ATF/acetone doesn't work by itself, try using it as an wetter to get a heavier agent like Kroil or Rustbuster into the joint. Hope this helps. Glenn On 3/3/2013 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote: > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2013 20:27:55 -0600 > From: "gunnellj tds.net" > To:mg-t@autox.team.net > Cc: Jesse Gunnell > Subject: [Mg-t] TF Wood > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I removed the gas tank from my TF today in order to get at the two pieces > of wood immediately behind the tank. > > These are the tank backboard (Moss 450-875) and the rear bottom rail (Moss > 450-880). > > While i got the tank out, I could not get the spare tire support off the > car. The center attachment is the problem. There are two brackets welded to > the round frame rail. There is a specer tube between them. It appears that > a single bolt passes through the brackets and the spacer. The bolt appears > to be rusted to the spacer. The nut is off the bolt but I cannot pound the > bolt out. I can turn the bolt but the spacer turns with it. Has anyone had > a problem with this ans how did you solve it? I cannot find any of these > parts in the Moss catalog, so I am not sure I'm describing things > accurately. > > I am going to attempt replacement of the tank backboard and the rear bottom > rail without taking the tub entirely apart. How can I slide the backboard > in place. From the top? From the side? Any suggestions, ideas or advice? > I'm sure it is going to take patience, but I think I can do it. As far as > the bottom rail, what holds it in place once it is positioned across the > frame? > > Thanks for any help ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mon Mar 4 09:01:05 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 66B0A424D7 for ; Mon, 4 Mar 2013 09:01:05 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ve0-f181.google.com (mail-ve0-f181.google.com [209.85.128.181]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 15DCA40408 for ; Mon, 4 Mar 2013 08:40:45 -0700 (MST) Received: by mail-ve0-f181.google.com with SMTP id d10so4734098vea.40 for ; Mon, 04 Mar 2013 07:33:13 -0800 (PST) d=google.com; s=20120113; h=mime-version:x-received:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type:x-gm-message-state; bh=ne6DrXCdmykZr6KVEP8h3LXve95iJIOBYaOkLbFUTs4=; b=ftrAuo1zOn8RcejaLj3IxmbG7IqCTZaD13uKhQEKPZC/Qv2lIcdGPdHIkS/YPneas1 neL/Jt1BHUmtBQ5vZQxGznHUXbBqnXPkGunr/wv8TVJuC5bamyng6EdrxCtLZIGAS56X mdTuZlOcDyjlOO3A7xscDwFGlU7r//NGxM42ghZ4Buq0Fl8AyFRD3WGo55TqdprbEbaS hPs8WXRwmq7XQFSQegv63nEvsavIE6UqpfzeEzLGX4R6Hb+g6ZQ6jp4UWdfSG1NFlPJo 1BScrwJudzXDdrBq0aI+zPmtmAtD+5ttffZPU4sCGLbKRsj8U5vBTr1oF19WVgD4Z0pe spRA== fr3mr7817176vcb.6.1362411193733; Mon, 04 Mar 2013 07:33:13 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.58.215.108 with HTTP; Mon, 4 Mar 2013 07:33:12 -0800 (PST) Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 09:33:12 -0600 From: "gunnellj tds.net" To: mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] MG TF Wood Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net OK. I cut the bolt with a hacksaw and got the spare tire carrier off. Now the next step is trying to get the new gas tank backboard in without removing the body or destroying the sheet metal on the top or sides. I was thinking about two possibilities. #1 Cutting the backboard horizontally so I ghet two thinner pieces the width of the car. Then sliding them into place one at a time. And then using Kwick Poly (they used to call it RSP or rapid setting polyester) to bond the board together, possibly with a metal reinforcment along the horizontal cut. To bolt the board in place I think I would have to make access holes in the side sheet metal to get at the bolts for tightening. #2 Cutting the board verticaly. Slipping the right and left pieces i behind the side sheetmetal and bonding the center edges with Kwik Poly (and maybe a metal reinforcement strip). Again, I would have to drill bolt access holes in the sheetmetal on each side. #3 I'm assuming I can lift the top sheet metal rear panel (the piece between the quarter panels) out by removing the nails. I think that removing this panel gives access to 4 additional screw holes that reun across the upper section of the wooden gas tank back board. Note: None of my sheet metal around the back board is in great shape, so I don't mind drilling access holes, making cuts, etc. Someday when the car is "restored" all this will need to be replaced I think. What I have is not terrible, it's just not real good. Also, I note that Moss has the top sheet mnetal rear panel N/.A. Does someone else reproduce this for the TF? -- "Gunner" John Gunnell PO Box 87 Iola, WI 54945 Ph: 715-445-4262 Cell: 715-281-5925 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Repop March 3, 2013 DSC_0013.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Repop March 3, 2013 DSC_0021.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Repop March 3, 2013 DSC_0022.jpg] ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Mar 8 03:46:14 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 4133F428BA for ; Fri, 8 Mar 2013 03:46:14 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from imr-da04.mx.aol.com (imr-da04.mx.aol.com [205.188.105.146]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id F0F564042B for ; Mon, 4 Mar 2013 08:09:49 -0700 (MST) Received: from mtaomg-mb06.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-mb06.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.41.77]) by imr-da04.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id 2832F1C00010D; Mon, 4 Mar 2013 10:02:18 -0500 (EST) Received: from core-dtc003b.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-dtc003.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.163.9]) by mtaomg-mb06.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id AAF67E00009F; Mon, 4 Mar 2013 10:02:16 -0500 (EST) From: PopeyMike@aol.com Full-name: PopeyMike Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 10:02:15 -0500 (EST) To: mg-t@autox.team.net, mgbob@juno.com, shop@justbrits.com, ted@the-jacksons.ca, gunnellj@tds.net, spook01@comcast.net, jquilter@peoplepc.com, kingseim@earthlink.net, anngene@bellsouth.net, laf48@aol.com x-aol-global-disposition: G s=20121107; t=1362409338; bh=6fAnnSaFhLYCOymFHA252VqKmKfowAkpd5xRBV4ByCw=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=Y/I2qJ70S3mZQVufYFMyOqbIf4iAEK5DZkmKpe4t8v8idpePNDe5O3IWKCwq87Q1w wbmnvd6EHWkmZLP+HxriciWdZNMY++aYyr3wWgXn05YOkDqLHT1i7k3ditb3/2pB4C Gs7f53pEjjl1yDpCWmkN6Su17Lku2DgOufvZQ/9k= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d294d5134b778380b Subject: [Mg-t] Cast Iron block lip broken Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net The oil pan lip on the engine block has one triangular piece broken in the bolt area. Theoretically - the other bolts in the area will hold the pan in place and it has never leaked there since the previous rebuilder put massive amounts of Red- RTV on the gasket surfaces. I would like to repair this section - but am afraid of damaging the cast block - anyone have experience doing this kind of work? My solutions are three: 1. Weld in thsi area - but this requires masive amounts of preheat and high local heat - so I have nixed this solution. 2. Fill in with brazing rod & retap - Brazing material is softer and at lower temps then welding - but still required high preheat and slow cooling - being that this area is on an outside lip - I do not believe I will have much to worry about shrinkage creating a crack - since the brazing material should strech enough not to create undue stress on the cast iron. The only problems are the preheat and cooling adn the hardening of the cast iron. 3. USE J-B Weld and reinforcing it with steel screen mesh and retapping - Drill 1/16" holes by 1/8" deep into the flange area near the screw threads and at the flange edge. J-B Weld 1/16" steel rod into these areas to form the bases of support and strength. Then cut pieces of screen to fit and overlay the outside portion of the lip in the area - then fill in with layers of J-B Weld and screen misture. After retapping - install a helicoil for the durability of the therads. This area does not need to be supper strong or super stressed under a high torque value - the pan is very rigid and the purpose is only to screw in a bolt to hold the gasket in place somehat tight. Has anyone had to make such a repair? Is J-B Weld a good strong resin to use with cast iron? or is there a better resin? Or just leave it alone? Michael Balahutrak 53 - TD ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Mar 8 03:47:07 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 88830428CF for ; Fri, 8 Mar 2013 03:47:07 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from nm11.access.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com (nm11.access.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com [98.139.44.138]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 4B85342858 for ; Mon, 4 Mar 2013 17:12:39 -0700 (MST) Received: from [98.139.44.102] by nm11.access.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 05 Mar 2013 00:05:06 -0000 Received: from [98.138.226.240] by tm7.access.bullet.mail.sp2.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 05 Mar 2013 00:05:06 -0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] by smtp111.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with NNFMP; 05 Mar 2013 00:05:06 -0000 s=s1024; t=1362441906; bh=ue1O83E3uYUw9LxlwbUFxmGR5v4AvLn1IOxdhXHl1Ao=; h=X-Yahoo-Newman-Id:X-Yahoo-Newman-Property:X-YMail-OSG:X-Yahoo-SMTP:Received:Content-Type:Mime-Version:Subject:From:In-Reply-To:Date:Cc:Message-Id:References:To:X-Mailer; b=LxR7ECR+0xqRhCPA25KdGRrq+ZI5dU+2xpvgxwhzZs5SkrQh5ua6sXEpVGa2w4m4AOrjOr2PECsoUCQEswRJR96PwUEaJHdoR+4yRt0R/dclylAZmXfZQtdz6D23oPxLp2yZQ1gZQzqCRtBVstEPRexNayLJnoBr9XFPMfYIqdg= .Z3xvUUSG6vFhjHYeXFmeGGK2ps8aTs6xNTUIkJQ7rbuyhs_XcvVScC_.kee vjw1V_o4GbJHSbIHoWu_H71zzm87_CYT.3hbasPVzbdHTLm.gIFXHF_P.L7N R8iZh5FWV5cMXo_gqcTvcvevyVijPkdsuzkNlPjdFxGJLlsmhjLWrXYowWCx lvsHV_uP6GxfwVIn.kNjMebp95tKzA4PhV0r8w_ugqWb3eZEp_CXbF2_.8Us s0jdvh9Vym_Hq8.yEGNG0VnVcF86WJDdbloy7hguKHvTIrdYjCNjh1GPj8Dd YbKLIudSNK3N7EVQ12omGNKaD1X2S0ZqG6s.QghxYm2oV51u3QOE5sYLOu7U FYfa58OFE3UeT4C3FOBY_2sS_0lkeYL5rvYj8_5zH0SMXXIgz8A-- Received: from [192.168.1.65] (anngene@99.113.249.17 with plain) by smtp111.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with SMTP; 04 Mar 2013 16:05:05 -0800 PST From: Gene Gillam Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 18:05:04 -0600 References: <1bed7.241feb57.3e661176@aol.com> To: PopeyMike@aol.com Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Cast Iron block lip broken Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Mike, I have had a couple of blocks rewelded - one was cracked where the starter bolts up and on the other the starter mounting bracket had broken all the way off (thank you UPS). Both times the welder preheated the area and then welded ithe didn't seem to have any problems at all. I've seen a number of blocks where the external water channel (behind the exhaust manifold) that had been repaired by brazing - if you don't want to weld repair the area I would opt for this over JB weld. Gene On Mar 4, 2013, at 9:02 AM, PopeyMike@aol.com wrote: > The oil pan lip on the engine block has one triangular piece broken in the bolt area. > > Theoretically - the other bolts in the area will hold the pan in place and it has never leaked there since the previous rebuilder put massive amounts of Red- RTV on the gasket surfaces. > > I would like to repair this section - but am afraid of damaging the cast block - anyone have experience doing this kind of work? > > My solutions are three: > > 1. Weld in thsi area - but this requires masive amounts of preheat and high local heat - so I have nixed this solution. > > 2. Fill in with brazing rod & retap - Brazing material is softer and at lower temps then welding - but still required high preheat and slow cooling - being that this area is on an outside lip - I do not believe I will have much to worry about shrinkage creating a crack - since the brazing material should strech enough not to create undue stress on the cast iron. The only problems are the preheat and cooling adn the hardening of the cast iron. > > 3. USE J-B Weld and reinforcing it with steel screen mesh and retapping - Drill 1/16" holes by 1/8" deep into the flange area near the screw threads and at the flange edge. J-B Weld 1/16" steel rod into these areas to form the bases of support and strength. Then cut pieces of screen to fit and overlay the outside portion of the lip in the area - then fill in with layers of J-B Weld and screen misture. After retapping - install a helicoil for the durability of the therads. > > This area does not need to be supper strong or super stressed under a high torque value - the pan is very rigid and the purpose is only to screw in a bolt to hold the gasket in place somehat tight. > > Has anyone had to make such a repair? Is J-B Weld a good strong resin to use with cast iron? or is there a better resin? > > Or just leave it alone? > > > > > > > > Michael Balahutrak > 53 - TD ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Mar 8 19:12:03 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 4FD2F428CB for ; Fri, 8 Mar 2013 19:12:03 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from qmta03.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net (qmta03.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net [76.96.62.32]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 35447428C2 for ; Fri, 8 Mar 2013 19:09:28 -0700 (MST) Received: from omta08.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net ([76.96.62.12]) by qmta03.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net with comcast id 8zd61l00M0Fqzac53E8l32; Sat, 09 Mar 2013 02:08:45 +0000 Received: from [192.168.1.136] ([71.228.236.233]) by omta08.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net with comcast id 9E8j1l00m52pXB33UE8lCp; Sat, 09 Mar 2013 02:08:45 +0000 Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2013 20:08:51 -0600 From: Glenn Schnittke User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:8.0) Gecko/20111105 Thunderbird/8.0 To: mg-t@autox.team.net References: s=q20121106; t=1362794925; bh=+OWCNtAJ9SStYoCXY4I4qcKrgIHJuMDqqzNwRp1GqB0=; h=Received:Received:Message-ID:Date:From:MIME-Version:To:Subject: Content-Type; b=TZs7hUZdT46RLD5y8kQW2aOiMG04quGphf56aAMMsyx2w0+QNU4tQ/Q+ufhH9vv8+ OMxUoPXCBet62RODz1FeDjwxADxKe8TsAx1ztiYrTMMFZtm8dpvXVykGzmw5MDCN1m 0+ByVqYXSb6N6m+0eafQhEJA9z9Y4gStcfHZYDTKIQeco+1z/6DevO96TwLBxf/7Pc yh/4eMVu7Y1dalHRKzXvaFVVjHGMvLhb2FOTUoOgnY7hvsjyotW4Dph6ZcKE5WnIN1 CNc+IDU/bDIHJIqX6oPtSMj8FB9hfw5lVP5UlqobR7NQIOgNKx/E8lBkZccyH5Z/0J hnGmU+oq3CkNQ== Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 17 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net If you decide to go the JB Weld route, yes there is, I think, a better product. It's called Marine-Tex. Not cheap but no good product is. The gray is stiffer than the white and more appropriate for mechanical mends than the white. It's formulated for marine fixes, obviously, and I swear by the stuff. I've mended engine water jackets, radiators and fuel tanks with it with no problems. I was even able to mend my wife's great-grandfather's cane for my mother-in-law to use. And I like my mother-in-law and don't want her to fall down. Use as directed, etc. Any good marine shop should carry it. Which bolt? Embedded jpgs don't come through the list. Glenn On 3/8/2013 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: [Mg-t] Cast Iron block lip broken > Message-ID:<1bed7.241feb57.3e661176@aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > The oil pan lip on the engine block has one triangular piece broken in the > bolt area. > > Theoretically - the other bolts in the area will hold the pan in place and > it has never leaked there since the previous rebuilder put massive amounts > of Red- RTV on the gasket surfaces. > > I would like to repair this section - but am afraid of damaging the cast > block - anyone have experience doing this kind of work? > > My solutions are three: > > 1. Weld in thsi area - but this requires masive amounts of preheat and > high local heat - so I have nixed this solution. > > 2. Fill in with brazing rod& retap - Brazing material is softer and at > lower temps then welding - but still required high preheat and slow > cooling - being that this area is on an outside lip - I do not believe I will > have much to worry about shrinkage creating a crack - since the brazing > material should strech enough not to create undue stress on the cast iron. The > only problems are the preheat and cooling adn the hardening of the cast > iron. > > 3. USE J-B Weld and reinforcing it with steel screen mesh and retapping > - Drill 1/16" holes by 1/8" deep into the flange area near the screw > threads and at the flange edge. J-B Weld 1/16" steel rod into these areas to > form the bases of support and strength. Then cut pieces of screen to fit and > overlay the outside portion of the lip in the area - then fill in with > layers of J-B Weld and screen misture. After retapping - install a helicoil > for the durability of the therads. > > This area does not need to be supper strong or super stressed under a high > torque value - the pan is very rigid and the purpose is only to screw in a > bolt to hold the gasket in place somehat tight. > > Has anyone had to make such a repair? Is J-B Weld a good strong resin to > use with cast iron? or is there a better resin? > > Or just leave it alone? > > > > > > > > Michael Balahutrak > 53 - TD ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Mar 8 20:40:13 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 25371428D8 for ; Fri, 8 Mar 2013 20:40:13 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from qmta13.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net (qmta13.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net [76.96.59.243]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 23C4F4043A for ; Fri, 8 Mar 2013 20:40:03 -0700 (MST) Received: from omta19.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net ([76.96.62.98]) by qmta13.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net with comcast id 9FdG1l00427AodY5DFfJtr; Sat, 09 Mar 2013 03:39:18 +0000 Received: from [10.249.30.194] ([174.229.193.194]) by omta19.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net with comcast id 9Ff81l00N4C7FKA3fFfB4c; Sat, 09 Mar 2013 03:39:16 +0000 To: mg-t@autox.team.net From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2013 21:39:15 -0600 s=q20121106; t=1362800358; bh=ZxdHdzf9VAhYcmgniXec4NYItaRCu/B7tD42kPBP08A=; h=Received:Received:To:From:Subject:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=YMYvAFLrCWCXHlu7VkOsM39mNkVYcknuhNhm0M1JniHgBySpzSzQ8rjBnrBdyOL44 ZrTniJcaB7Gfba4ssgiIN1iU9UBLWJz1H9dibI4e4jRx/0oTbSl+p8er72ecDxzziM m5KkS4mq9w3YQ7zGSsYk+z5T+diHY6vt/5UMXISRkG26teRKnQj33kfEmmqPIiVNZ3 cG/wVMW64FC8F2LGeCKrtFg1qZfN8fBvdvZYod5oQ1Y2xjXXpoos8yb8IGcKQcXmOR K5BQTqgyTOrILkSlvVhGcBenKLK07MfvqBQtH7GFFxFZhgZR5obl410MrjN9UMh4ZL Kox1ohR3YEuqQ== Subject: Re: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?Mg-t_Digest=2C_Vol_7=2C_Issue_17?= Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net The problem of course is that none of these products will stick to contaminated surfaces...like used iron that's been oiled. If possible, get it welded ie. repaired properly. Glenn loves marine tex, which is an epoxy good from -40 to +250 f. JB weld is an epoxy good from -55 to +600 f. There's a time limitation of 10 minutes at +600f....so no frying pan repair. I've used both products. For blocks, JB seems best, for other things, marine-tex works great. I WILL say that I used JB to adhere a patch to the bottom of a gas tank. After six years in constant direct contact with gasohol (10%), the patch leaked. Subsequently, I discovered that no epoxy is proof against what is marketed as "gas" today. Just FYI. It's not the gas, or the alcohol; its the chemicals added to make the two blend. Again, nothing sticks to contaminated surfaces. But, in fact, you really should weld it up and then forget it. Glenn, maybe you should have used chewing gum on that cane! :-) Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Glenn Schnittke" To: Subject: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 17 Date: Fri, Mar 8, 2013 20:08 If you decide to go the JB Weld route, yes there is, I think, a better product. It's called Marine-Tex. Not cheap but no good product is. The gray is stiffer than the white and more appropriate for mechanical mends than the white. It's formulated for marine fixes, obviously, and I swear by the stuff. I've mended engine water jackets, radiators and fuel tanks with it with no problems. I was even able to mend my wife's great-grandfather's cane for my mother-in-law to use. And I like my mother-in-law and don't want her to fall down. Use as directed, etc. Any good marine shop should carry it. Which bolt? Embedded jpgs don't come through the list. Glenn On 3/8/2013 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: [Mg-t] Cast Iron block lip broken > Message-ID:<1bed7.241feb57.3e661176@aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > The oil pan lip on the engine block has one triangular piece broken in the > bolt area. > > Theoretically - the other bolts in the area will hold the pan in place and > it has never leaked there since the previous rebuilder put massive amounts > of Red- RTV on the gasket surfaces. > > I would like to repair this section - but am afraid of damaging the cast > block - anyone have experience doing this kind of work? > > My solutions are three: > > 1. Weld in thsi area - but this requires masive amounts of preheat and > high local heat - so I have nixed this solution. > > 2. Fill in with brazing rod& retap - Brazing material is softer and at > lower temps then welding - but still required high preheat and slow > cooling - being that this area is on an outside lip - I do not believe I will > have much to worry about shrinkage creating a crack - since the brazing > material should strech enough not to create undue stress on the cast iron. The > only problems are the preheat and cooling adn the hardening of the cast > iron. > > 3. USE J-B Weld and reinforcing it with steel screen mesh and retapping > - Drill 1/16" holes by 1/8" deep into the flange area near the screw > threads and at the flange edge. J-B Weld 1/16" steel rod into these areas to > form the bases of support and strength. Then cut pieces of screen to fit and > overlay the outside portion of the lip in the area - then fill in with > layers of J-B Weld and screen misture. After retapping - install a helicoil > for the durability of the therads. > > This area does not need to be supper strong or super stressed under a high > torque value - the pan is very rigid and the purpose is only to screw in a > bolt to hold the gasket in place somehat tight. > > Has anyone had to make such a repair? Is J-B Weld a good strong resin to > use with cast iron? or is there a better resin? > > Or just leave it alone? > > > > > > > > Michael Balahutrak > 53 - TD ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Mar 9 12:34:15 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 3B41A40543 for ; Sat, 9 Mar 2013 12:34:15 -0700 (MST) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from mail-vc0-f176.google.com (mail-vc0-f176.google.com [209.85.220.176]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8D93A4051C for ; Sat, 9 Mar 2013 12:34:09 -0700 (MST) Received: by mail-vc0-f176.google.com with SMTP id fk10so1435095vcb.7 for ; Sat, 09 Mar 2013 11:33:22 -0800 (PST) s=20120113; h=mime-version:x-received:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; bh=V3v3Lu8TbMk9l21HRZKLgHeI9G/l70E+Ko44Y1i62Bc=; b=LRBuDIy8E4HeHiGD4IZmVuRfVNYIyiRqQDYKKmUKNDqdUzInQ4cz3sfGOS/l4i0e7K dNznWGcy6jSEdKUSte2SDpcaT5HFjDJwyETd9IeupCGfcrn12zoQ8wJqK+EGtl/OOGwi gHGr+oPfDGihK5L2P97u2KTRbcRo7FKTUJyymYO084fW+L98+t9plkift7LM8z6POYdI l4HGUdyGGMARruoEXiLYNpQfnVQoExo0RDDpKCu5rAB4JRs4FTNAFWo8fnjxN772vQ1N jPISQW7P9apqNr8oKjTEK+CSPi68JOza0OENZTJKcJIH1xrK3JahE+0i1lMw0467/ePM 6CFg== cz1mr2319784vdc.7.1362857601908; Sat, 09 Mar 2013 11:33:21 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.58.231.131 with HTTP; Sat, 9 Mar 2013 11:33:21 -0800 (PST) Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2013 13:33:21 -0600 From: Richard Lindsay To: mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] TD Workshop Manual Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Hi Friends, I bought the "MG Midget (Series "TD" and Series"TF") Workshop Manual" - the one with the blue cover - but would like to have a digital copy (.pdf format) as that makes for easier use in the garage (sections printed, as needed), keeping the bound paper copy in the house, nice and clean. And since I have already paid the copyright 'intellectual property' rights, does anyone have a digital copy to share? Thanks. -rick, in Houston ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Mar 10 13:50:15 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 17AC44041A for ; Sun, 10 Mar 2013 13:50:15 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from smtpsalv.upv.es (smtpsal1.cc.upv.es [158.42.249.61]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 79CE3403EC for ; Sun, 10 Mar 2013 13:50:02 -0600 (MDT) Received: from smtpx.upv.es (smtpxv.cc.upv.es [158.42.249.46]) by smtpsalv.upv.es (8.14.4/8.14.4) with ESMTP id r2AJSRMt023889 (version=TLSv1/SSLv3 cipher=DHE-RSA-AES256-SHA bits=256 verify=NO); Sun, 10 Mar 2013 20:28:28 +0100 s=default; t=1362943708; bh=SlfLIIGlmoJ0D+1uWhUdaI4ASVH6xmpK11mUjVGyN5Q=; h=From:To:Subject:Date:References:In-Reply-To; b=F7PiLK3ZezA1q2PKJHfyomO2iGs5k5PyQzVNRZ5jGEPWz+nTylnZeaX1JcylQGV1x hHS7kexMB8y77FQU+p/TzgKFEX1gxbZiTJEZ0Ww9XfxcvhUgeplgaB2wsYvuqwF8K0 JWQUMoYFqYyMllAUIKHx5zhn67l/vCDnDbvglkVghoxh6DOP5Nvn+oPUM1sqafQf1H 6Lm7NMBaoQC271Jrd9l0NdeRil5I723J3bxjKhxmN420imGxrP+owHBqwWEour/nZp eLjjOewgZKBvJ0FyrYOVsvAYPp0WRkNuoX/8NmTde/exN0rIoN33eJ1KNeqvTHI0dr mjvjkngxzDzfA== Received: from smtp.upv.es (celaeno.cc.upv.es [158.42.249.55]) by smtpx.upv.es (8.14.3/8.14.3) with ESMTP id r2AJSSYP023423; Sun, 10 Mar 2013 20:28:28 +0100 Received: from AGENDA5.upvnet.upv.es (agenda5.cc.upv.es [158.42.250.131]) by smtp.upv.es (8.13.6/8.13.6) with ESMTP id r2AJSQdQ015956 (version=TLSv1/SSLv3 cipher=AES128-SHA bits=128 verify=FAIL); Sun, 10 Mar 2013 20:28:27 +0100 Received: from AGENDA2.upvnet.upv.es (158.42.250.83) by AGENDA5.upvnet.upv.es (158.42.250.131) with Microsoft SMTP Server (TLS) id 14.1.438.0; Sun, 10 Mar 2013 20:28:04 +0100 Received: from AGENDA1.upvnet.upv.es ([fe80::a821:2613:70b:4291]) by AGENDA2.upvnet.upv.es ([fe80::30aa:8036:1d5b:d4e1%10]) with mapi id 14.03.0123.003; Sun, 10 Mar 2013 20:28:04 +0100 From: Jesus Vicente Benajes Calvo To: Richard Lindsay , "mg-t@autox.team.net" Thread-Topic: [Mg-t] TD Workshop Manual Thread-Index: AQHOHP0BBIZllCpeCkGk2mnb6sfgtpifT9Jl Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 19:28:03 +0000 References: Accept-Language: es-ES, en-US Content-Language: es-ES x-originating-ip: [80.30.184.38] Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Workshop Manual Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Mar 15 15:51:52 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 3288A40EB4 for ; Fri, 15 Mar 2013 15:51:52 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from mail-qa0-f47.google.com (mail-qa0-f47.google.com [209.85.216.47]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E4D8940043; Fri, 15 Mar 2013 15:51:45 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-qa0-f47.google.com with SMTP id j8so597471qah.20 for ; Fri, 15 Mar 2013 14:50:28 -0700 (PDT) h=x-received:date:subject:message-id:importance:from:to:reply-to :mime-version:content-type; bh=vJPN8B5q/J1sJPMY+zqpP6IkxFmhyyhC401diQNIxNs=; b=Jw2DPWhw9GU8iiVe7LVKjsBZPrvBw7qfdyjZzgXjGaEnPvR6/XsGztlRrSMTecE64g /LKwj9wxBC7iOPofrPvQjllVyTEujCcT+Ae8hkAm5y4HySSKOEHfAdLyqTxFS5JTCf9A l4UoMhHqr/9ceeUuHddViHERIJGU8LR5VOhnn1pOJTlQ8hVkVoaRuPpVDKOYClNkUudB SJOuy/wqGelZjaFgYRzLswPxflvEx7DRgo2zp2DUw9zboHl86SeTMEVj9dzZH1FCjUb2 YQsp7OBqw2epwVLEK2moDYByZZjbjxtYRK6zt0/4ssbMOeb1wWF/LyDqU2XN93UcX8rJ QQBQ== t4mr8337246qae.3.1363384228831; Fri, 15 Mar 2013 14:50:28 -0700 (PDT) Received: from [192.168.1.69] (107-192-134-236.lightspeed.hstntx.sbcglobal.net. [107.192.134.236]) by mx.google.com with ESMTPS id c2sm5944048qeg.6.2013.03.15.14.50.26 (version=TLSv1 cipher=ECDHE-RSA-RC4-SHA bits=128/128); Fri, 15 Mar 2013 14:50:27 -0700 (PDT) Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2013 16:50:24 -0500 From: Rick Lindsay To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] XPAG engine + gearbox weight Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Hello Friends, I'm about to buy a hoist for my garage but I don't want to buy one much bigger than I will ever need. B This leads me to ask the weight of an XPAG engine with gearbox attached, but otherwise stripped as per the workshop manual. B Please advise if you know the weight, or have a good estimate. B Thank you. -rick, in Houston. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry. ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Mar 15 19:36:22 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5A46042A23 for ; Fri, 15 Mar 2013 19:36:22 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from imr-da01.mx.aol.com (imr-da01.mx.aol.com [205.188.105.143]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 99F7C4295B for ; Fri, 15 Mar 2013 19:30:45 -0600 (MDT) Received: from mtaomg-da02.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-da02.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.51.138]) by imr-da01.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id C62EC1C0000AC; Fri, 15 Mar 2013 21:29:27 -0400 (EDT) Received: from core-dtc005c.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-dtc005.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.163.17]) by mtaomg-da02.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id 92C4DE000085; Fri, 15 Mar 2013 21:29:27 -0400 (EDT) From: PopeyMike@aol.com Full-name: PopeyMike Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2013 21:29:27 -0400 (EDT) To: mgbob@juno.com, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net x-aol-global-disposition: G s=20121107; t=1363397367; bh=hM6hhIe8CQjJQOoQqNh59S+Y8273WEwlYx7U0rtGFA4=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=x0tpjUCmCNZitfxHCYWQGzcRbDmcxeWsRKEAic3Y+wHLu/pU2+lklo2HkSlXp+uPW Z9Gr10ie7GaMad8MHHydluO2agOYszd5dAdPZ+ZLSsi7QK/W2Wa5t/u49uaiQuydz6 1tTyDEAvZ8jvsbe2dRZl6+v/NQ8NNlrQB06XZpw8= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d338a5143caf74d08 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Mgs] XPAG engine + gearbox weight Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Gents: Had the same question recently - so decided to rented a lift. It was me that weighed the engine block fully assembled - minus the head was 217 lbs. The engine lift was way over - what was needed. But it was possible to move freely about. It was a bit awkward because it was very heavy. But I will rent it again for $45.00 over the weekend to have the convenience of free movement. Michael Balahutrak 53 TD. _________ In a message dated 3/15/2013 7:38:05 P.M. Central Daylight Time, mgbob@juno.com writes: Rick, Engine and gearbox have been thought to weigh approx 450, though someone recently weighed the assembly and found it somewhat less. 500 lbs capacity is the smallest chain hoist I have seen. It would do the job and could be handy for picking up the lawn mower for its maintenance, unless you move north, in which case it could pick up the snow blower for maintenance also. Engine lifting cranes are much easier to use. HF is currently offering a folding one at $180, and its levelling device for $35. Might someone in your club have one you could borrow?Bob ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Rick Lindsay To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] XPAG engine + gearbox weight Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2013 16:50:24 -0500 Hello Friends, I'm about to buy a hoist for my garage but I don't want to buy one much bigger than I will ever need. B This leads me to ask the weight of an XPAG engine with gearbox attached, but otherwise stripped as per the workshop manual. B Please advise if you know the weight, or have a good estimate. B Thank you. -rick, in Houston. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry. _______________________________________________ Mgs@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/popeymike@aol.com ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Fri Mar 15 19:36:41 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 1F50042ABF for ; Fri, 15 Mar 2013 19:36:41 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from imr-da05.mx.aol.com (imr-da05.mx.aol.com [205.188.105.147]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E8F9C428E2 for ; Fri, 15 Mar 2013 19:35:53 -0600 (MDT) Received: from mtaomg-ma01.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-ma01.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.41.8]) by imr-da05.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id 18F3A1C000064; Fri, 15 Mar 2013 21:34:36 -0400 (EDT) Received: from core-dtc005c.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-dtc005.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.163.17]) by mtaomg-ma01.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id DE4C9E000087; Fri, 15 Mar 2013 21:34:35 -0400 (EDT) From: PopeyMike@aol.com Full-name: PopeyMike Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2013 21:34:35 -0400 (EDT) To: richardolindsay@gmail.com, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net x-aol-global-disposition: G s=20121107; t=1363397676; bh=9tyGXqf0FsDaOXcYmomfRJSSsvf20m7N2KmRI8jTT4s=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=N2kkvku4SCRxY1EAQuDBCyUfUSbXdhje3F5eyuoSNuUNTGkZauI6b4/grQS4oXzpP 24S2wyaFubtzzo9DLruSLcwBPzM1H+9rdGp2AKoI5AHItC5fsutp7nhNxDgCIwDiNU 22PCPG9q9R/PnAfvBSGLZzqkzUM+Jgfd682D0qE0= x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d29085143cc2b4682 Subject: Re: [Mg-t] XPAG engine + gearbox weight Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net I think you saw my message 217 lbs for full block minus head and minus transmission. The transmission must not weight too much - since at the age of 62 - I could still unbolt it and lift it out from inside the tub by myself. I would estimate the transmission something less then 100 lbs. If I remember (for at my age I also forget a lot) I will weigh it tomorrow when I am in garage. Michael Balahutrak 53 TD _______________________ In a message dated 3/15/2013 4:50:51 P.M. Central Daylight Time, richardolindsay@gmail.com writes: Hello Friends, I'm about to buy a hoist for my garage but I don't want to buy one much bigger than I will ever need. B This leads me to ask the weight of an XPAG engine with gearbox attached, but otherwise stripped as per the workshop manual. B Please advise if you know the weight, or have a good estimate. B Thank you. -rick, in Houston. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry. ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/popeymike@aol.com ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Mar 16 03:16:16 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id ED43442EE8 for ; Sat, 16 Mar 2013 03:16:15 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from qmta07.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net (qmta07.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net [76.96.62.64]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8D20A42EE5 for ; Sat, 16 Mar 2013 03:16:04 -0600 (MDT) Received: from omta04.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net ([76.96.62.35]) by qmta07.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net with comcast id C9Ek1l0010ldTLk579EkoM; Sat, 16 Mar 2013 09:14:44 +0000 Received: from [127.0.0.1] ([98.229.243.26]) by omta04.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net with comcast id C9Ej1l00B0atUmS3Q9EjQT; Sat, 16 Mar 2013 09:14:44 +0000 Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 05:14:49 -0400 From: Bud Krueger User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:19.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/19.0 SeaMonkey/2.16.2 To: PopeyMike@aol.com, richardolindsay@gmail.com, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net References: <2c3fc.1065cc1.3e75262b@aol.com> s=q20121106; t=1363425284; bh=aIrBrOu0DFoLw9fwCMwROE38uYGXKNhqWhdeuFpJP/4=; h=Received:Received:Message-ID:Date:From:MIME-Version:To:Subject: Content-Type; b=XDWb4GEdlShWxTaS3v0z80wEleprMEEoKw4as5V19jXu4qddnMZM1eARnbmS+7Oai PcI8cga5TITEyNDUXLHuvcpsSR8SmTGBUZZzFQ53qecF1r9uDl9qTDk97CGydpoqc2 Z2ys3ZDk5KbmNw+PmO2QZ6jZdtPmVoMQ8jwaYQJ6zfxoDzeIGTsF8pZ9iutT3C3pKF SzsjEuB1rhBoYhXcLtXGNnjHMyd4bL76FAZYnmeo3UsbzWjYlpWfvRks7aXagNH8wj p6D8HxhCWSqe5akKABXb9lu1nhXWCpMttb4rhewm7/VzYiXJesx8K5ttnsbKyYCYrc CcVr3YQWwRTIQ== Subject: Re: [Mg-t] XPAG engine + gearbox weight Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Gearbox, sans remote, weighs in at 60 pounds. Bud PopeyMike@aol.com wrote: > I think you saw my message 217 lbs for full block minus head and minus > transmission. > > The transmission must not weight too much - since at the age of 62 - I > could still unbolt it and lift it out from inside the tub by myself. I would > estimate the transmission something less then 100 lbs. If I remember (for > at my age I also forget a lot) I will weigh it tomorrow when I am in > garage. > > Michael Balahutrak > 53 TD > _______________________ > > > In a message dated 3/15/2013 4:50:51 P.M. Central Daylight Time, > richardolindsay@gmail.com writes: > > Hello Friends, > > I'm about to buy a hoist for my garage but I don't want to buy one much > bigger than I will ever need. B This leads me to ask the weight of an XPAG > engine with gearbox attached, but otherwise stripped as per the workshop > manual. B > > Please advise if you know the weight, or have a good estimate. B Thank you. > > -rick, in Houston. > > > Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, > just like a BlackBerry. > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/popeymike@aol.com > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/budkrueger@comcast.net ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Mar 17 19:25:22 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id F379542CBD for ; Sun, 17 Mar 2013 19:25:21 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from mail-vc0-f178.google.com (mail-vc0-f178.google.com [209.85.220.178]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 903CA424E4; Sun, 17 Mar 2013 19:19:48 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-vc0-f178.google.com with SMTP id hz11so2609181vcb.9 for ; Sun, 17 Mar 2013 18:18:20 -0700 (PDT) s=20120113; h=mime-version:x-received:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; bh=STz9UCS7kA68BP45ySadI94qkXFvHVCkyz/cMquXdKc=; b=UETLOQSuUmNn6s6a1+1S0EH07Oq05A1sWtjDsrZIYJAqbkv7R3dn6tKyIOitktVYf9 JiEXF+9gOXdIc90PJ0RoRH3+gcKsE9aQ65R5mqS5+ys65Ros+VeGsAiOrC5Zw1A410wm zXYdOBEMq9J3pTGf2hMmz5OZVBuX8Sq9ZeBc8NrGD3RpChHtrEsXHUdCwpPxg/Rgytz3 D/dXOQ2nP3w8Whd2Zz7II5NUa4lUygPg9UcBCbludbWtyrsULfPWSwI7/hxx0TTym0aR sfclp1RPUz7rre/eXgjDQiBydQEwpx8jAuce1gUduqgOVneMT4Z7lxSxd2I4/raeLSyg nDlQ== ge15mr17081480vcb.15.1363569500835; Sun, 17 Mar 2013 18:18:20 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.58.231.131 with HTTP; Sun, 17 Mar 2013 18:18:20 -0700 (PDT) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 20:18:20 -0500 From: Richard Lindsay To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] Back in the club Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Hello Friends, A couple of weeks ago I wrote the the MGS List asking if anyone was interested in trading a T-Series car for my '69 Silver Shadow. Truth is, I wanted a T-Series but didn't really want to get rid of my R-R. At the time I was thinking of a restored T-Series for my restored Silver Shadow. Esteemed MGS Listmember, Mr. Bill Schooler, wrote to me offering an alternative. Bill stated that he has two '53 MG TDs ready for restoration, one LHD and one RHD - and both cars are for sale! I live in Houston where driving is a death sport, so a RHD car, however special, is just not ideal. The RHD car is still available. And in that statement is an easy clue. I have bought the LHD car from Bill. I am once again, a proud MG owner. The car I bought from Bill is complete and mostly original - exactly the way I like my projects to start. As time goes on, I hope to share with you, stories and pictures of the restoration of this car. And since Bill has a RHD '53 MG TD for sale, I encourage someone here to buy it and undertake a parallel restoration effort! With happiness to be back in the club, Rick Lindsay, Houston, TX PS: It is rumored that Bill may have an MGA for sale too! ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Mar 17 19:34:27 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 0A154424D8 for ; Sun, 17 Mar 2013 19:34:27 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from bradakis.com (bradakis.com [166.70.156.35]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id BFD18424C0; Sun, 17 Mar 2013 19:34:09 -0600 (MDT) Received: from bradakis.com (bradakis.com [166.70.156.35]) by bradakis.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 1FD0EA1035; Sun, 17 Mar 2013 19:34:44 -0600 (MDT) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 19:34:44 -0600 From: Mark J Bradakis User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:19.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/19.0 SeaMonkey/2.16 To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net References: Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Mgs] Back in the club Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Very nice. As a reminder the email lists do not allow pictures, but the forums [ link below ] do allow them. Keep us posted, one way or another. mjb. ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Tue Mar 26 07:36:25 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 706E1425B7 for ; Tue, 26 Mar 2013 07:36:25 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from elasmtp-kukur.atl.sa.earthlink.net (elasmtp-kukur.atl.sa.earthlink.net [209.86.89.65]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 1E63440C02 for ; Tue, 26 Mar 2013 07:35:15 -0600 (MDT) DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=dk20050327; d=earthlink.net; b=TEXHItrgO7Dc10mtdbepITsmSuwGykx8flLRZlPU+ZZUwoR5S0yziTJWhikhdYSP; h=Received:From:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding:Subject:Date:Message-Id:To:Mime-Version:X-Mailer:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP; Received: from [108.71.32.118] (helo=[192.168.1.33]) by elasmtp-kukur.atl.sa.earthlink.net with esmtpa (Exim 4.67) (envelope-from ) id 1UKTzu-0008S8-RU; Tue, 26 Mar 2013 09:33:06 -0400 From: John Seim Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2013 06:33:06 -0700 To: MG-TABC GROUP , MG-T Group Subject: [Mg-t] Looking for a 0.120" piston Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net I am looking for a 0.120" piston. Anyone have one? Thanks, John Seim Irvine, CA ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Wed Mar 27 06:42:54 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 31BF34043A for ; Wed, 27 Mar 2013 06:42:54 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from elasmtp-mealy.atl.sa.earthlink.net (elasmtp-mealy.atl.sa.earthlink.net [209.86.89.69]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id CAED1403EE for ; Wed, 27 Mar 2013 06:42:47 -0600 (MDT) DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=dk20050327; d=earthlink.net; b=LshxVAEPHVWSWhZ6O0jV6PTDl0LIbHCfZielxkjGES4X4smd77XciScs/nzyEhBB; h=Received:From:Content-Type:Subject:Date:References:To:Message-Id:Mime-Version:X-Mailer:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP; Received: from [108.71.36.205] (helo=[192.168.1.33]) by elasmtp-mealy.atl.sa.earthlink.net with esmtpa (Exim 4.67) (envelope-from ) id 1UKpeb-0007rW-C4; Wed, 27 Mar 2013 08:40:33 -0400 From: John Seim Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 05:40:31 -0700 References: To: MG-TABC GROUP , MG-T Group Subject: [Mg-t] Fwd: Looking for a 0.120" piston Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Appears that I have found one. mturtu1648 is sending me one. Thanks all for your help. John Seim Begin forwarded message: > From: John Seim > Date: March 26, 2013 6:33:06 AM PDT > To: MG-TABC GROUP , MG-T Group > Subject: Looking for a 0.120" piston > > I am looking for a 0.120" piston. > Anyone have one? > Thanks, > > John Seim > Irvine, CA ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sat Mar 30 18:45:01 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 533824040E for ; Sat, 30 Mar 2013 18:45:01 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from mail-ve0-f181.google.com (mail-ve0-f181.google.com [209.85.128.181]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id E736A403C6; Sat, 30 Mar 2013 18:44:53 -0600 (MDT) Received: by mail-ve0-f181.google.com with SMTP id pa12so1526310veb.26 for ; Sat, 30 Mar 2013 17:42:23 -0700 (PDT) s=20120113; h=mime-version:x-received:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; bh=NDlGawlEyYA+OZZOiOXDsdgFfiA3VKM7w1TXhnf31SE=; b=JRRXoXQvbjvOu8WEpzSvJ3zzZyCXgywHjPWqAq6qVbcSh3scECh9Uv4VrRFulSgn0s OKA0LDQCdY67kHn8A3GnzBDd1k6c+L/0k5RkdKrjt8Th5ewpEiWdHTFJd/vpGI7dlwvT iQN5ejM+SFLevr6VIxKddBM3IAuuS/QJr0Pf5o4U+SlLs6SG8u9XzDpQ8641Ale87vxU y2RhPmHtUEfMwBoT0nX+bT1zPDg0NQ+Ah2sGYoK6VQIgRz1/Md3++5oo1Drrixrlr8xg dg0AgHPwYyFij/T+F3Zpr3FgZljbr4S2gtv/bgs23KKJLqTqtu92f/NJb6rBxqiBkUNv IltQ== bq20mr4728882vdc.128.1364690543121; Sat, 30 Mar 2013 17:42:23 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.58.18.210 with HTTP; Sat, 30 Mar 2013 17:42:23 -0700 (PDT) Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2013 19:42:23 -0500 From: Richard Lindsay To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net, Rui Gigante Subject: [Mg-t] The MG TD arrives in Texas Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Hello Friends, The MG TD I bought from Mr. Bill Schooler has arrived here in Texas. Enclosed Vehicle Transport delivered the car to my garage (Yes, they helped push it up the drive and into the garage.) and here I am with the car. May I proudly say, the car is everything Bill said it would be, and perhaps even better than he described. http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/MG_TD_in_garage.JPG Following below are a number of pictures I took today as work began. First of all, here's the car. http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1029.JPG Yea, it looks really rough - and it is - but its complete and ultimately restorable. Bill couldn't get the car started before loading on the transporter so I decided to examine the fuel pump - the rumored defective link. If I could get it running I could do a hot compression test. Here's how it looked. http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1030.JPG Here are a couple more pictures taken to aid in reassembly. http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1035.JPG http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1036.JPG Upon removal of the filter I discovered a LOT of debris in the filter. Further examination showed that diaphragm to be damaged. And in reality, the engine will get completely rebuild so the intended compression test was just to satisfy my curiosity. It will have to wait. http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1037.JPG I haven't yet decided whether to rebuild this pump or to just replace it with an aftermarket one from Moss. A betting man might benefit from choosing the rebuild option. Next step was to rebuild the high-tone horn. It was not working so a full rebuild was indicated. First of all, I took pictures of the mounting and wiring, again to aid in correct reassembly. http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1038.JPG Inside, the horn was just fine but with heavily corroded contacts. http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1039.JPG Back on the workbench, the contacts were cleaned and refaced, just as one would do with ignition points. I then stripped all the paint and sanded away the rust. The horn was then reassembled with a little lubricant on the moving bits (but not the points, of course) and tested on the bench power supply. Voila! It worked great! http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1040.JPG Once reassembled, a coat of engine primer followed by a coat of gloss black engine paint put it ready for re-installation. Of course, that will have to wait for MONTHS but, when reassembly time comes, this part, like the rest, will be ready for a nice clean rebuild. http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130330_165733.jpg I moved on the the other horn but got no further than disassembly. This horn does work but it too will receive the full process. And with that, the day's work ended. Its a tiny bit of progress but it IS progress. Simple and clean. -rick ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Sun Mar 31 11:45:03 2013 Return-Path: Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net Received: from autox.team.net (localhost [IPv6:::1]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 5DD554040E for ; Sun, 31 Mar 2013 11:45:03 -0600 (MDT) Delivered-To: mg-t@autox.team.net Received: from snt0-omc1-s21.snt0.hotmail.com (snt0-omc1-s21.snt0.hotmail.com [65.55.90.32]) by autox.team.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 01F36403F3; Sun, 31 Mar 2013 11:44:55 -0600 (MDT) Received: from SNT002-W184 ([65.55.90.8]) by snt0-omc1-s21.snt0.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(6.0.3790.4675); Sun, 31 Mar 2013 10:42:21 -0700 From: John Crawley To: Richard Lindsay , LIST , "mg-t@autox.team.net" , Rui Gigante Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2013 17:42:21 +0000 References: FILETIME=[19135760:01CE2E37] Subject: Re: [Mg-t] The MG TD arrives in Texas Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net Nice find Rick . . .May I suggest that as well as this list you join the T-series group at http://www2.mgcars.org.ukthey are a great bunch of guys and the knowledge base is second to none. Ask any T question and you will most likely have an answer within the hour. The archives are immense and you can include a picture with each post. Godspeed in Safety FastJc > Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2013 19:42:23 -0500 > From: richardolindsay@gmail.com > To: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net; rui.gigante@gmail.com > Subject: [Mg-t] The MG TD arrives in Texas > > Hello Friends, > > The MG TD I bought from Mr. Bill Schooler has arrived here in Texas. > Enclosed Vehicle Transport delivered the car to my garage (Yes, they > helped push it up the drive and into the garage.) and here I am with > the car. May I proudly say, the car is everything Bill said it would > be, and perhaps even better than he described. > > http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/MG_TD_in_garage.JPG > > Following below are a number of pictures I took today as work began. > First of all, here's the car. > > http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1029.JPG > > Yea, it looks really rough - and it is - but its complete and > ultimately restorable. > > Bill couldn't get the car started before loading on the transporter so > I decided to examine the fuel pump - the rumored defective link. If I > could get it running I could do a hot compression test. Here's how it > looked. > > http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1030.JPG > > Here are a couple more pictures taken to aid in reassembly. > > http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1035.JPG > > http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1036.JPG > > Upon removal of the filter I discovered a LOT of debris in the filter. > Further examination showed that diaphragm to be damaged. And in > reality, the engine will get completely rebuild so the intended > compression test was just to satisfy my curiosity. It will have to > wait. > > http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1037.JPG > > I haven't yet decided whether to rebuild this pump or to just replace > it with an aftermarket one from Moss. A betting man might benefit > from choosing the rebuild option. > > Next step was to rebuild the high-tone horn. It was not working so a > full rebuild was indicated. First of all, I took pictures of the > mounting and wiring, again to aid in correct reassembly. > > http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1038.JPG > > Inside, the horn was just fine but with heavily corroded contacts. > > http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1039.JPG > > Back on the workbench, the contacts were cleaned and refaced, just as > one would do with ignition points. I then stripped all the paint and > sanded away the rust. The horn was then reassembled with a little > lubricant on the moving bits (but not the points, of course) and > tested on the bench power supply. Voila! It worked great! > > http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1040.JPG > > Once reassembled, a coat of engine primer followed by a coat of gloss > black engine paint put it ready for re-installation. Of course, that > will have to wait for MONTHS but, when reassembly time comes, this > part, like the rest, will be ready for a nice clean rebuild. > > http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130330_165733.jpg > > I moved on the the other horn but got no further than disassembly. > This horn does work but it too will receive the full process. > > And with that, the day's work ended. Its a tiny bit of progress but > it IS progress. Simple and clean. > > -rick > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t@autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/alittlemoreink@hotmail.com ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive