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Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 15:29:38 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>, Neil Shannon <neiltshannon@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Its the first day of my retirement and...wait for it...YES!  I got a
call this afternoon from the company asking about some data I
processed!  No escape!  However, I have had a good day in the garage.
Story follows;

A couple of days ago I wrote to you stating that I would probably
rebuild the '53 TD's fuel pump rather than replacing it - and that is
what I have done.  Here's how the pump looked on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1030.JPG

Here's how it looked on the bench with the filter and the fuel chamber removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1041.JPG

Here's a look at the non-return valve before any cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1042.JPG

Here are the valve parts (almost) ready for reassembly.  I say almost
because the valve disks still need to be cleaned.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1043.JPG

And here's the pump reassembled with new gaskets, the contacts
burnished, and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1044.JPG

It runs great and looks nice.

>From there I moved on to the next component to rebuild; the starter
switch.  Here's how it looked while still on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1050.JPG

Same switch on the bench, awaiting cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1051.JPG

Some fuel pump debris is still on the bench.  All has since been
cleaned up.  Here's a look at the switch, now cleaned up, refinished
and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1054.JPG

And finally, a look back at the car with the parts removed.  This
picture is my guide as to the correct placement / orientation of the
various mounting brackets.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1053.JPG

And that's it for now.  I like sharing the work and I know some of you
probably enjoy seeing the progress.  Please feel free to just hit
'delete' is uninterested.

With kind regards,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  1 14:47:22 2013
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From: "Gene" <crownwheel@comcast.net>
To: "'Richard Lindsay'" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>, "'Rui Gigante'"
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>, "'Neil Shannon'" <neiltshannon@gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dwvL_CCFKfVoUCNOnfNoXHjsER6DrM1-+fG-KcnX6RncQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 16:41:57 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Truly, things of beauty ...
Thanks for the updates. I bet it may help others in the restoration process.
Cheers
Gene

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Lindsay
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2013 4:30 PM
To: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net; Rui Gigante; Neil Shannon
Subject: [Mg-t] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement

Its the first day of my retirement and...wait for it...YES!  I got a call
this afternoon from the company asking about some data I processed!  No
escape!  However, I have had a good day in the garage.
Story follows;

A couple of days ago I wrote to you stating that I would probably rebuild
the '53 TD's fuel pump rather than replacing it - and that is what I have
done.  Here's how the pump looked on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1030.JPG

Here's how it looked on the bench with the filter and the fuel chamber
removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1041.JPG

Here's a look at the non-return valve before any cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1042.JPG

Here are the valve parts (almost) ready for reassembly.  I say almost
because the valve disks still need to be cleaned.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1043.JPG

And here's the pump reassembled with new gaskets, the contacts burnished,
and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1044.JPG

It runs great and looks nice.

>From there I moved on to the next component to rebuild; the starter switch.
Here's how it looked while still on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1050.JPG

Same switch on the bench, awaiting cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1051.JPG

Some fuel pump debris is still on the bench.  All has since been cleaned up.
Here's a look at the switch, now cleaned up, refinished and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1054.JPG

And finally, a look back at the car with the parts removed.  This picture is
my guide as to the correct placement / orientation of the various mounting
brackets.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1053.JPG

And that's it for now.  I like sharing the work and I know some of you
probably enjoy seeing the progress.  Please feel free to just hit 'delete'
is uninterested.

With kind regards,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/crownwheel@comcast.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  1 17:07:07 2013
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Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 17:57:22 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net, schooler
	<schoolerw@comcast.net>,  Neil Shannon <neiltshannon@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Only in our world...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Only in our perverted world would this be called progress!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1057.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1058.JPG

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  1 17:09:13 2013
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 23:02:19 GMT
To: richardolindsay@gmail.com
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Cc: neiltshannon@gmail.com, rui.gigante@gmail.com, mgs@autox.team.net,
	mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

  Thanks for the pics.
   Nice to see these good old components brought back into service.
   The starter switch even has its build date showing.
   What are you using for finish on the switch metal?
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
<rui.gigante@gmail.com>, Neil Shannon <neiltshannon@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 15:29:38 -0500

Its the first day of my retirement and...wait for it...YES!  I got a
call this afternoon from the company asking about some data I
processed!  No escape!  However, I have had a good day in the garage.
Story follows;

A couple of days ago I wrote to you stating that I would probably
rebuild the '53 TD's fuel pump rather than replacing it - and that is
what I have done.  Here's how the pump looked on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1030.JPG

Here's how it looked on the bench with the filter and the fuel chamber
removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1041.JPG

Here's a look at the non-return valve before any cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1042.JPG

Here are the valve parts (almost) ready for reassembly.  I say almost
because the valve disks still need to be cleaned.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1043.JPG

And here's the pump reassembled with new gaskets, the contacts
burnished, and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1044.JPG

It runs great and looks nice.

>From there I moved on to the next component to rebuild; the starter
switch.  Here's how it looked while still on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1050.JPG

Same switch on the bench, awaiting cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1051.JPG

Some fuel pump debris is still on the bench.  All has since been
cleaned up.  Here's a look at the switch, now cleaned up, refinished
and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1054.JPG

And finally, a look back at the car with the parts removed.  This
picture is my guide as to the correct placement / orientation of the
various mounting brackets.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1053.JPG

And that's it for now.  I like sharing the work and I know some of you
probably enjoy seeing the progress.  Please feel free to just hit
'delete' is uninterested.

With kind regards,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  2 11:38:34 2013
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 12:18:19 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] A little more TD progress.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

This morning I cleaned the garage and worked on a few parts.  Its
really humid here today so painting was out of the question, after
opening the garage door.  However, un-painting is viable. :-)

Here's a look at the instrument panel (taken by Bill and cropped by me).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/Instrument_before.jpg

Once removed from the facia and on the bench, I coated it with paint
stripper.  Even the outer edges of the chrome were smeared with black
paint by some PO, when the facia was painted.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_094932.jpg

And 10 minutes later, the paint was stripped and the chrome edge was polished.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_100853.jpg

That guy is going to look really nice!  And that (almost) begs the
question; What is the 'correct' finish on the panel?  I've seen
everything from tan to chrome to body color.  The biggest variability
I have seen, even in Clausager's book, is in the A, B and C series.
The Ds and Fs always seem to be medium-tan.  The finish on my panel
was brown-to-tan and 'may' have been metallic paint.  The interior
will be Moss's Honey Tan so my first thought is a medium brown. BUT,
your advice would be appreciated.

The next project was the horn-push.  Here's how it looks once disassembled.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_101519.jpg

Everything is now restored, the contacts burnished, tested and the
metal repainted (before opening the garage door into Houston's
humidity).  However, the little screw heads are damaged so I'm off to
the hardware store for parts.  I'll share a picture of the restored
switch, complete with new wires, once I have it reassembled.

Regards,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  2 14:42:42 2013
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From: Mike E <redscirocco@hotmail.com>
To: <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 16:15:52 -0400
References: <CAOc+-dyNJisXAs-AaYkBsvj-DMDTham=f6vro-x1EH8V7b4_6g@mail.gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[E01D39E0:01CE2FDE]
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] A little more TD progress.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
The dash panel paint is metallic bronze, Moss part #220-530.  Same for TD and
TF.
-Mike EldredWilmington, VT1951 M38 Jeep
1954 MG TF
(Need a '60s car!)1973 Midget1977 MGB

> Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 12:18:19 -0500
> From: richardolindsay@gmail.com
> To: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net; rui.gigante@gmail.com
> Subject: [Mg-t] A little more TD progress.
>
> Hi Friends,
>
> This morning I cleaned the garage and worked on a few parts.  Its
> really humid here today so painting was out of the question, after
> opening the garage door.  However, un-painting is viable. :-)
>
> Here's a look at the instrument panel (taken by Bill and cropped by me).
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/Instrument_before.jpg
>
> Once removed from the facia and on the bench, I coated it with paint
> stripper.  Even the outer edges of the chrome were smeared with black
> paint by some PO, when the facia was painted.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_094932.jpg
>
> And 10 minutes later, the paint was stripped and the chrome edge was
polished.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_100853.jpg
>
> That guy is going to look really nice!  And that (almost) begs the
> question; What is the 'correct' finish on the panel?  I've seen
> everything from tan to chrome to body color.  The biggest variability
> I have seen, even in Clausager's book, is in the A, B and C series.
> The Ds and Fs always seem to be medium-tan.  The finish on my panel
> was brown-to-tan and 'may' have been metallic paint.  The interior
> will be Moss's Honey Tan so my first thought is a medium brown. BUT,
> your advice would be appreciated.
>
> The next project was the horn-push.  Here's how it looks once disassembled.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_101519.jpg
>
> Everything is now restored, the contacts burnished, tested and the
> metal repainted (before opening the garage door into Houston's
> humidity).  However, the little screw heads are damaged so I'm off to
> the hardware store for parts.  I'll share a picture of the restored
> switch, complete with new wires, once I have it reassembled.
>
> Regards,
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco@hotmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  2 15:29:16 2013
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 21:08:09 GMT
To: redscirocco@hotmail.com
	218d0c214129010c49f90ca52cc1d5e5b1f9e509c5cc81d50d45cdac65ece5fc8de5f928a99528d8a85c95dc989538f865cd35ed98353c4c5888cde19d599905115c7c5c381cac0d1ceca19c0dcc780de9d59dad7171c84de568dcdd71799148c5214d48688915b55d4ca1ac555d252578
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Mgs]  A little more TD progress.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

 Looking better every day, Rick.
 Hardware store is unlikely to have BA (British Association) fasteners, just
something close enough to chew up existing threads.
   Try Jon Caswell, British Tools and Fasteners, for a source that ships
fast.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Mike E <redscirocco@hotmail.com>
To: <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net"
<mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [Mg-t] A little more TD progress.
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 16:15:52 -0400

Rick,
The dash panel paint is metallic bronze, Moss part #220-530.  Same for TD and
TF.
-Mike EldredWilmington, VT1951 M38 Jeep
1954 MG TF
(Need a '60s car!)1973 Midget1977 MGB

> Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 12:18:19 -0500
> From: richardolindsay@gmail.com
> To: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net; rui.gigante@gmail.com
> Subject: [Mg-t] A little more TD progress.
>
> Hi Friends,
>
> This morning I cleaned the garage and worked on a few parts.  Its
> really humid here today so painting was out of the question, after
> opening the garage door.  However, un-painting is viable. :-)
>
> Here's a look at the instrument panel (taken by Bill and cropped by me).
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/Instrument_before.jpg
>
> Once removed from the facia and on the bench, I coated it with paint
> stripper.  Even the outer edges of the chrome were smeared with black
> paint by some PO, when the facia was painted.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_094932.jpg
>
> And 10 minutes later, the paint was stripped and the chrome edge was
polished.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_100853.jpg
>
> That guy is going to look really nice!  And that (almost) begs the
> question; What is the 'correct' finish on the panel?  I've seen
> everything from tan to chrome to body color.  The biggest variability
> I have seen, even in Clausager's book, is in the A, B and C series.
> The Ds and Fs always seem to be medium-tan.  The finish on my panel
> was brown-to-tan and 'may' have been metallic paint.  The interior
> will be Moss's Honey Tan so my first thought is a medium brown. BUT,
> your advice would be appreciated.
>
> The next project was the horn-push.  Here's how it looks once disassembled.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_101519.jpg
>
> Everything is now restored, the contacts burnished, tested and the
> metal repainted (before opening the garage door into Houston's
> humidity).  However, the little screw heads are damaged so I'm off to
> the hardware store for parts.  I'll share a picture of the restored
> switch, complete with new wires, once I have it reassembled.
>
> Regards,
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  2 20:51:53 2013
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References: <CAOc+-dwvL_CCFKfVoUCNOnfNoXHjsER6DrM1-+fG-KcnX6RncQ@mail.gmail.com>
To: richardolindsay@gmail.com, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net, 
	rui.gigante@gmail.com, neiltshannon@gmail.com
From: Sonny Surles <nsurles@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

This is encouragement for many of us.  Thanks for sharing, terrific!


Sonny



-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>; mg-t <mg-t@autox.team.net>; Rui Gigante
<rui.gigante@gmail.com>; Neil Shannon <neiltshannon@gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Apr 1, 2013 4:30 pm
Subject: [Mg-t] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement


Its the first day of my retirement and...wait for it...YES!  I got a
call this afternoon from the company asking about some data I
processed!  No escape!  However, I have had a good day in the garage.
Story follows;

A couple of days ago I wrote to you stating that I would probably
rebuild the '53 TD's fuel pump rather than replacing it - and that is
what I have done.  Here's how the pump looked on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1030.JPG

Here's how it looked on the bench with the filter and the fuel chamber
removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1041.JPG

Here's a look at the non-return valve before any cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1042.JPG

Here are the valve parts (almost) ready for reassembly.  I say almost
because the valve disks still need to be cleaned.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1043.JPG

And here's the pump reassembled with new gaskets, the contacts
burnished, and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1044.JPG

It runs great and looks nice.

>From there I moved on to the next component to rebuild; the starter
switch.  Here's how it looked while still on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1050.JPG

Same switch on the bench, awaiting cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1051.JPG

Some fuel pump debris is still on the bench.  All has since been
cleaned up.  Here's a look at the switch, now cleaned up, refinished
and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1054.JPG

And finally, a look back at the car with the parts removed.  This
picture is my guide as to the correct placement / orientation of the
various mounting brackets.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1053.JPG

And that's it for now.  I like sharing the work and I know some of you
probably enjoy seeing the progress.  Please feel free to just hit
'delete' is uninterested.

With kind regards,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/nsurles@aol.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  2 21:36:17 2013
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 20:10:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Terry Sanders <taterry@pacbell.net>
To: richardolindsay@gmail.com, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	rui.gigante@gmail.com, neiltshannon@gmail.com, Sonny Surles
	<nsurles@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I've restored 5 MGs all of which came to me in baskets...I found that if you
do something each day no matter how small, they finally get done!!
NA, TA, TC, Arnolt, TF1500
Terry in Oakland

--- On Tue, 4/2/13, Sonny Surles <nsurles@aol.com> wrote:h day

From: Sonny Surles <nsurles@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement
To: richardolindsay@gmail.com, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,
rui.gigante@gmail.com, neiltshannon@gmail.com
Date: Tuesday, April 2, 2013, 7:33 PM

This is encouragement for many of us.  Thanks for sharing, terrific!


Sonny



-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>; mg-t <mg-t@autox.team.net>; Rui Gigante
<rui.gigante@gmail.com>; Neil Shannon <neiltshannon@gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Apr 1, 2013 4:30 pm
Subject: [Mg-t] More TD work, a.k.a. First day of retirement


Its the first day of my retirement and...wait for it...YES!  I got a
call this afternoon from the company asking about some data I
processed!  No escape!  However, I have had a good day in the garage.
Story follows;

A couple of days ago I wrote to you stating that I would probably
rebuild the '53 TD's fuel pump rather than replacing it - and that is
what I have done.  Here's how the pump looked on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1030.JPG

Here's how it looked on the bench with the filter and the fuel chamber
removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1041.JPG

Here's a look at the non-return valve before any cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1042.JPG

Here are the valve parts (almost) ready for reassembly.  I say almost
because the valve disks still need to be cleaned.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1043.JPG

And here's the pump reassembled with new gaskets, the contacts
burnished, and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1044.JPG

It runs great and looks nice.

>From there I moved on to the next component to rebuild; the starter
switch.  Here's how it looked while still on the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1050.JPG

Same switch on the bench, awaiting cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1051.JPG

Some fuel pump debris is still on the bench.  All has since been
cleaned up.  Here's a look at the switch, now cleaned up, refinished
and tested.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1054.JPG

And finally, a look back at the car with the parts removed.  This
picture is my guide as to the correct placement / orientation of the
various mounting brackets.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1053.JPG

And that's it for now.  I like sharing the work and I know some of you
probably enjoy seeing the progress.  Please feel free to just hit
'delete' is uninterested.

With kind regards,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/nsurles@aol.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/taterry@pacbell.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  3 06:37:24 2013
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 07:17:54 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Autumn Red
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone have a picture of (any) MG in Autumn Red, to share please? B Google images returns many options but they all seem to be different. B 

I'm looking for a rich dark blood red that is neither orangish nor burgundy. B  Metallics need not apply. :-p

Your advice (and picture) is appreciated.

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 18:34:29 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Neil Shannon
	<neiltshannon@gmail.com>, Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>,  Ed
	Helsing <jlhceh@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

...I did play with our new grandbaby!!!  Woohoo!

Hello Friends,

I did make progress this afternoon so I'll share that work.

First of all, I cleaned the choke cable, inside and out, and cleaned
away a little surface rust on the outer sheath.  I also cleaned and
sprayed the knob with clear acrylic.  Once dry, the cable got lightly
oiled.  Here are the two cables, ready to re-install.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1073.JPG

I next cleaned, refinished and tested the turn signal switch.  When
some PO painted the dash black, the handle also got painted - kinda.
Here it is refinished and ready to reassemble and re-install.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1072.JPG

I next cleaned and evaluated the power sockets from the instrument
panel.  The metal bits are fine but the black and red insulators are
shot (falling apart) - and they're expensive.  I also don't expect to
reconnect them so I went for an alternative; two grommets in the holes
with the metal bits re-installed.  One of the grommets is now red.
Later, if I (or someone) wants to reconnect these sockets, the parts
are available.  Picture of the grommet follows, and in a later picture
with the other bits.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1074.JPG

The next repairs were made to the 'ignition', 'low fuel' and 'turn
signal' lights.  As many of you might know, the lamps are 2-1/2 volt
units in series with a coils of wire serving as a dropping resistors.
Unfortunately, the resistive wires were damaged on all sockets and
were damaged further upon removal from the instrument panel.  Instead
of buying replacements or fighting many feet of tiny wire, I modified
the lamp holders by jumpering across the ballast contacts and
switching to 12 volt bulbs.  Testing verified that the assemblies work
fine.  That said, I have seen indicators like this with the plastic
lens melted by contact with the hot lamp.  To address that issue, I am
going to use very low wattage bulbs.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1077.JPG

Here are the rest of the refurbished bits.  From left-to-right; the
kludged auxiliary power fittings, the fog lights switch, and the LEAST
useful bit of any British car: the dash light dimmer.  Really?!
Actually, its damaged inside and will be bypassed.  The knob hasn't
been acrylic coated because its broken.  I'll replace it with the
push-on aftermarket part from Moss.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1078.JPG

And finally, here is the license plate currently on the car.  The
first owner, in the mid-'50s, held some position on the consular staff
in Jordan.  I can easily read the 'C.C.125' but the Arabic text is
beyond me.  Any of you able to read it?

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1075.JPG

Happy Wednesday,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  3 19:02:17 2013
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 18:37:50 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
References: <CAOc+-dyXDcAZRL=t719OJu2h5qRZnvRf=u_zFocjbnQWGA8FAw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Mgs] Didn't get a lot done today BUT...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Richard Lindsay wrote:
> ...I did play with our new grandbaby!!!  Woohoo!
>
>
>

Nice.

I really need to get busy on a project or two.  As was mentioned doing 
even just one
thing a day gets you closer to the final goal.  The weather here in Salt 
Lake is getting
nice and warm, I need to get in the habit of spending at least half in 
hour in the
garage every day.

mjb.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 20:36:01 2013
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 21:09:14 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>, Ed Helsing <jlhceh@gmail.com>,  Neil Shannon
	<neiltshannon@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Combo oil pressure / coolant temperature gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Today was a grandbaby hugging day so not a lot of car work got done.
This evening I did clean the combo gauge and while its LOTS better, it
still has a lot of 'patina' on the face.  Here's how it looked when I
started.  (The website is REALLY slow this evening so if you can't get
to the pictures, please try a little later.  The ghost's in the
machine!)

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1070.JPG

Here it is, as it looks after tonight's work.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1080.JPG

I'll paint the gauge hands before final reassembly and put a new wrap
of green cellophane around the light opening.  These little buggers
are really expensive so I don't want to mess with it too much and risk
damage.  I think it will be just fine as is, if showing a little
character.  If I change my mind later, there are reputable shops who
can restore the instrument.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 03:43:33 2013
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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2013 05:19:11 -0400
From: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@comcast.net>
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	Firefox/19.0 SeaMonkey/2.16.2
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, mgs@autox.team.net, 
	mg-t@autox.team.net, Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>,  Ed Helsing
	<jlhceh@gmail.com>, Neil Shannon <neiltshannon@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Combo oil pressure / coolant temperature gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,

While you have it out you might as well check its calibration.  Just put 
the temperature sensor bulb into a pan of boiling water and see where 
the needle goes.

Bud
Richard Lindsay wrote:
> Hello Friends,
>
> Today was a grandbaby hugging day so not a lot of car work got done.
> This evening I did clean the combo gauge and while its LOTS better, it
> still has a lot of 'patina' on the face.  Here's how it looked when I
> started.  (The website is REALLY slow this evening so if you can't get
> to the pictures, please try a little later.  The ghost's in the
> machine!)
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1070.JPG
>
> Here it is, as it looks after tonight's work.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1080.JPG
>
> I'll paint the gauge hands before final reassembly and put a new wrap
> of green cellophane around the light opening.  These little buggers
> are really expensive so I don't want to mess with it too much and risk
> damage.  I think it will be just fine as is, if showing a little
> character.  If I change my mind later, there are reputable shops who
> can restore the instrument.
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/budkrueger@comcast.net
______________________________________________

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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  6 00:05:08 2013
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Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 16:19:36 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Neil Shannon
	<neiltshannon@gmail.com>, Ed Helsing <jlhceh@gmail.com>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Friday's TD work
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

More work today.  Retirement is fun. :-P  After cleaning up the
workbench, work began on the facia.  Here's how it looked just as I
removed it from the car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1081.JPG

The vinyl has been sprayed black - along with parts of the chrome
trim.  In this next close-up you can see better the original interior
green color.  The exterior of the car was originally Woodland Green.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1082.JPG

The first disassembly work started at the glove box door.  I had
previously removed the hinges.  Here's how it looked on the bench with
the chrome trim and the vinyl removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1083.JPG

In that last picture you can just see the split wood allowing screws
to work loose.  In this next picture you can easily see the wood
delaminating and splitting from years of use stressing at the wood
screw holes.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1084.JPG

Before affecting repairs to the wood, I took three photos of the facia
with the trim removed but the vinyl in place, just as a reminder of
how the factory attached the vinyl.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1085.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1086.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1087.JPG

I then set about repairing the glove box door wood.  After a good
cleaning, I flowed waterproof wood glue between the laminae and into
the splits.  I then clamped the wood closed and wiped away any glue
oozing from the repairs.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1088.JPG

Working all around the door (until I ran out of clamps) I repeated the process.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1089.JPG

That work is now drying and won't be touched until later tomorrow.  I
then removed the windscreen and the mounts.  Here's how the metal
looks.  Yes, I have some work to do here.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1090.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1091.JPG

In the second picture, you may have noticed that the inside rear-view
mirror has also been removed.  It looked TERRIBLE and I felt that it
was a goner - until I attacked it with Semichrome polish and fine
steel wool.  Its totally restored now and looks awesome.  I didn't get
a picture after I finished but here's a look at it just after
discovering that it WOULD clean up nicely.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130405_143922.jpg

And that's where work ended for today.  Time for the shower.  Nancy
says I stink. :-o

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 14:51:56 2013
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Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 15:50:48 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Okay, this is just weird.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Today, I removed the trim from the TD's doors.  Inside I found one
plastic chopstix laying on the bottom timber of each door.  Yes, BOTH
doors!

Freekin' weird.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 15:02:23 2013
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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 15:59:56 -0500
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>,
	"mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Okay, this is just weird.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Just now, someone is having nice giggle over something they did 20 years ago.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Apr 7, 2013, at 3:50 PM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:

Today, I removed the trim from the TD's doors.  Inside I found one
plastic chopstix laying on the bottom timber of each door.  Yes, BOTH
doors!

Freekin' weird.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/wbeech@flash.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 15:08:18 2013
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References: <CAOc+-dwBJQrnOECHRoWBhRHOzO27zBjWVjZfoYgLrjTqaPhu_Q@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Mgs] Okay, this is just weird.
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Richard Lindsay wrote:
> Today, I removed the trim from the TD's doors.  Inside I found one
> plastic chopstix laying on the bottom timber of each door.  Yes, BOTH
> doors!
>

Gotta keep the weight distribution even from side to side.

mjb.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  8 10:19:54 2013
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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 11:18:56 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] '53 M.G. TD documentation pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Today I just took a lot of 'documentation' pictures.  At reassembly
time, there can NEVER be TOO MANY pictures - although I do take a
lot...

If you would like to see more 'before' pictures of the '53 TD's
various bits, go to www.aubard.us/MGTD and start at picture:

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1092.JPG

...through...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1176.JPG

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  9 17:41:11 2013
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 18:40:05 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Thank you List!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

I'd like to thank the list-member who argued that I should bite the
bullet and buy the correct Moss paint for the TD's instrument cluster.
 Sadly, I can't remember who it was.  I was leaning toward using some
kind of paint from the garage shelf, probably because of my Scottish
ancestry (read: being CHEAP).  However, I did order the correct paint
and here are the results.

First of all, I stripped the old finish with Aircraft Stripper...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_094932.jpg

..., then polished the chrome edges of the panel.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_100853.jpg

I then taped and primered with an automotive primer that adheres
better to bare metal, like chrome.  I then applied the first mist coat
of paint.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130409_171710.jpg

And here's how it looks now with two coats of the Moss finish and the
masking tape removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130409_172451_1.jpg

I think it looks AWESOME.  Thank you MG List!

And now, I have a question for you same great guys.

What color are the blind-headed screws used to attach the panel?  I've
seen pictures of black screws and screws painted with the bronze
paint.  Which is 'correct', if either?

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  9 17:48:58 2013
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2013 19:45:24 -0400
From: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:20.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/20.0 SeaMonkey/2.17
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, mgs@autox.team.net, 
	mg-t@autox.team.net, Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dw0ZFnRFCVFAtSabADvuEOM+RTbcEQ0gU-UXz4uz06X+w@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Thank you List!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

The heads of the screws are black, Rick.  Panel looks great.

Bud
http://www.ttalk.info/
Richard Lindsay wrote:
> Hello Friends,
>
> I'd like to thank the list-member who argued that I should bite the
> bullet and buy the correct Moss paint for the TD's instrument cluster.
>   Sadly, I can't remember who it was.  I was leaning toward using some
> kind of paint from the garage shelf, probably because of my Scottish
> ancestry (read: being CHEAP).  However, I did order the correct paint
> and here are the results.
>
> First of all, I stripped the old finish with Aircraft Stripper...
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_094932.jpg
>
> ..., then polished the chrome edges of the panel.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_100853.jpg
>
> I then taped and primered with an automotive primer that adheres
> better to bare metal, like chrome.  I then applied the first mist coat
> of paint.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130409_171710.jpg
>
> And here's how it looks now with two coats of the Moss finish and the
> masking tape removed.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130409_172451_1.jpg
>
> I think it looks AWESOME.  Thank you MG List!
>
> And now, I have a question for you same great guys.
>
> What color are the blind-headed screws used to attach the panel?  I've
> seen pictures of black screws and screws painted with the bronze
> paint.  Which is 'correct', if either?
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/budkrueger@comcast.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 10 10:05:15 2013
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From: Mike E <redscirocco@hotmail.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>, Rui
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	FILETIME=[062D1FC0:01CE3605]
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Thank you List!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

It looks great.  I really need to do the one in my TF.  -Mike
EldredWilmington, VT

> Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 18:40:05 -0500
> From: richardolindsay@gmail.com
> To: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net; rui.gigante@gmail.com
> Subject: [Mg-t] Thank you List!
>
> Hello Friends,
>
> I'd like to thank the list-member who argued that I should bite the
> bullet and buy the correct Moss paint for the TD's instrument cluster.
>  Sadly, I can't remember who it was.  I was leaning toward using some
> kind of paint from the garage shelf, probably because of my Scottish
> ancestry (read: being CHEAP).  However, I did order the correct paint
> and here are the results.
>
> First of all, I stripped the old finish with Aircraft Stripper...
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_094932.jpg
>
> ..., then polished the chrome edges of the panel.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130402_100853.jpg
>
> I then taped and primered with an automotive primer that adheres
> better to bare metal, like chrome.  I then applied the first mist coat
> of paint.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130409_171710.jpg
>
> And here's how it looks now with two coats of the Moss finish and the
> masking tape removed.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130409_172451_1.jpg
>
> I think it looks AWESOME.  Thank you MG List!
>
> And now, I have a question for you same great guys.
>
> What color are the blind-headed screws used to attach the panel?  I've
> seen pictures of black screws and screws painted with the bronze
> paint.  Which is 'correct', if either?
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco@hotmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 15:01:39 2013
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 16:57:10 -0400
From: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:20.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/20.0 SeaMonkey/2.17
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, mgs@autox.team.net, 
	mg-t@autox.team.net, Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dxBi0T34EARHdzoO6+ED2QQq-87danjXUNPPuHc47LtiA@mail.gmail.com>
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	z6Pq4jstpqcTA==
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Thursday TD progress
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
See http://www.ttalk.info/Directionals.htm - there is a tab between 
terminals 6 & 7 to assure cover orientation.
Bud
Richard Lindsay wrote:
> Hi again Friends,
>
> Little by little the TD project is moving along.  As I'm sure you are
> aware, this is an EVERYTHING restoration.  Nothing on the car should
> be by-passed.  That said, a lot of the stuff works with simple
> cleaning / maintenance.  The latest in that quest is the turn signal
> relay box.  Here's how it looks with the cover off.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1179.JPG
>
> And there are two points I wish to make about this refurbishment.  (1)
> The cover comes right off allowing cleaning and refinishing, BUT, it
> is not keyed to fit only one way.  That means, when you take it off,
> if you loose track of how it came off, you have to figure out which
> side is 1-4 and which side is 5-8!  Trust me.  I learned the hard way.
>   I had to go back to the wiring diagram to work it out!  (2) The
> little craftsman metric wrench with the goofy box-end arrangement
> works GREAT for those of us who attach rusty Whitworth bolts and nuts!
>   WELL worth the investment.  (Got mine for Christmas and thought I'd
> never use them!)
>
> I cleaned the relay cover on the wire wheel then gave it a thin coat
> of 'cast-coat aluminum' engine paint.  That stuff is great.  I also
> burnished the relay contacts and verified that they both work, as
> advertised, using my bench power supply.  Here's how the bits look
> cleaned up and painted but before assembly.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1180.JPG
>
> And after assembly (the right way around)!
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1181.JPG
>
> After that work was done, I removed the fuse block and voltage
> regulator.  I have new units for both, thanks to Bill including them
> with the car, so I have not spent time cleaning up these bits.  I did
> repaint the mounting screw heads black (yea, I'm pathetic and need a
> life).  Here's how that area looks now that the electrical bits are
> removed (sans coil).
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1184.JPG
>
> I have applied rust eater to a bunch of bolts and nuts so that has to
> set for a while.  In the mean time, and just for completeness, I took
> a few more documentation pictures.  There's no such things as too many
> pictures.  Here are a few odds and ends.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1185.JPG
>
> Those floorboards are going to be a P.I.T.A. to remove as the nuts are
> on the bottom exposed to rust-city!
>
> The handbrake adjusters are soaking in rust eater.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1186.JPG
>
> Same with the rear tunnel bolts.  They're soaking.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1187.JPG
>
> Other bits.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1188.JPG
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1189.JPG
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/budkrueger@comcast.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 15:02:43 2013
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 16:01:23 -0500
From: Mark Stolzenburg <stolzy40@gmail.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] A couple pictures from yesterday
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
I am absolutely astonished by your progress and determination. And you even
have time to take pictures and do write-up's of your progress on the
Internet. You are making me feel really guilty :>).
I also recent purchased an unrestored MG, a 1954 MGTF 1500. It's a
California black plate car that is an original "survivor" car. I'm
currently working on the mechanical items, brakes, motor mounts, pedal
shaft/bushing etc. The body on this car is solid enough that I might just
get it street worthy and have some fun before a full restoration.
Anyway, one of your pictures showed you using Simi Chrome Polish which I
believe is a German product. I've never heard of it before.What can you
tell me about it.
Thanks and keep the progress reports coming!
Mark Stolzenburg
Chesterfield, Missouri
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 14 11:49:22 2013
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 12:47:51 -0500
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] distributor gear pin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

On an early Lucas distributor, can I use a spring pin instead of a dowel pin
to hold the gear on?
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 01:58:39 2013
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From: "Clive Sherriff" <clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com>
To: "Duvall Video Productions" <mike@duvallvideo.com>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <56F71ED7-8FA4-400A-A6EE-74552DE2B3A4@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 08:47:50 +0100
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] distributor gear pin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I have used spring pins for the distributor gear  with no problems.  The 
drive of the distributor does not take any significant load, unlike the oil 
pump drive, and in fact, the strength of the higher quality spring steel 
material, over the plain mild steel original pin, probably means that the 
spring pin may actually be stronger.

Clive
= ====================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Duvall Video Productions" <mike@duvallvideo.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>; <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 6:47 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] distributor gear pin


> On an early Lucas distributor, can I use a spring pin instead of a dowel 
> pin
> to hold the gear on?
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 20 10:02:10 2013
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 11:01:14 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Thank you again. Even better than expected!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

This note is intended to share a technique and to thank Mr. Bud K.,
who once again had the right answer!

Earlier I posted a picture (or twelve) of the tach and speedo
cleanups.  If interested, you might remember that I painted the inner
trim rings brown, resulting in this appearance.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1066.JPG

While some might argue that the look is 'attractive' or perhaps just
'acceptable', Mr. K wrote, "...it just won't look right." and that
prompted me to take his sage advice and rework the gauges.

Bud recommended a Valspar paint from Lowe's but the only option they
offered me was a QUART of flat latex in the color recommended.
Nothing in spray can format.  Instead, I took a color sample card to
my neighborhood Ace Hardware (  a.k.a. my generic autoparts store. :-P
 ) and had a half-pint 'sample' mixed in a nearly-perfect match to the
Lowe's color.  The little can of paint was mixed in egg-shell so its a
soft semi-gloss.  With this paint, I applied the base-coat to the trim
rings.

After a night of drying I took the rings out into the driveway and
gave them a very light dusting of aluminum spray paint over the
teal-green - just to add that metallic luster found on the gauge
faces.  When sprayed from about half a meter away, in short bursts,
here's how the rings looked.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_100130.jpg

And here's how the trim rings look re-installed in the gauges.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_100506.jpg

Bud was right - again.  I think they look just fantastic.  His color
and the light dusting of aluminum made for an excellent match.
Thanks everyone!

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 20 10:36:23 2013
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 12:33:34 -0400
From: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:20.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/20.0 SeaMonkey/2.17.1
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, mgs@autox.team.net, 
	mg-t@autox.team.net, Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dwQH33ki-rGYK7yBFf1B4D6_XBRN13boO6SFx1SYYOCjQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Thank you again. Even better than expected!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you for the kudos, Richard.  Your dusting of aluminum spray was a 
great idea to tone down the green.

Bud
Richard Lindsay wrote:
> Hello Friends,
>
> This note is intended to share a technique and to thank Mr. Bud K.,
> who once again had the right answer!
>
> Earlier I posted a picture (or twelve) of the tach and speedo
> cleanups.  If interested, you might remember that I painted the inner
> trim rings brown, resulting in this appearance.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1066.JPG
>
> While some might argue that the look is 'attractive' or perhaps just
> 'acceptable', Mr. K wrote, "...it just won't look right." and that
> prompted me to take his sage advice and rework the gauges.
>
> Bud recommended a Valspar paint from Lowe's but the only option they
> offered me was a QUART of flat latex in the color recommended.
> Nothing in spray can format.  Instead, I took a color sample card to
> my neighborhood Ace Hardware (  a.k.a. my generic autoparts store. :-P
>   ) and had a half-pint 'sample' mixed in a nearly-perfect match to the
> Lowe's color.  The little can of paint was mixed in egg-shell so its a
> soft semi-gloss.  With this paint, I applied the base-coat to the trim
> rings.
>
> After a night of drying I took the rings out into the driveway and
> gave them a very light dusting of aluminum spray paint over the
> teal-green - just to add that metallic luster found on the gauge
> faces.  When sprayed from about half a meter away, in short bursts,
> here's how the rings looked.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_100130.jpg
>
> And here's how the trim rings look re-installed in the gauges.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_100506.jpg
>
> Bud was right - again.  I think they look just fantastic.  His color
> and the light dusting of aluminum made for an excellent match.
> Thanks everyone!
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/budkrueger@comcast.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 20 15:32:23 2013
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 16:30:38 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Experiments with metal, etc.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

This afternoon I took a look at the wood and metal on the right-rear
side of the tub.  This pictures shows the good and the bad of the body
tub.  Fortunately, the bad is easily repaired.  The good is, well,
...good.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_154459.jpg

The view above, inside the rear quarter, shows the wood to be in great
condition except for the zillions of nail and screw holes.  Some PO
years ago, installed this interior without removing the tacks from the
previous installation - which may or may not have been the original.
That means that after pulling all those tacks, the wood is left full
of holes!  The screw holes are wallowed out or have split the wood.
Fortunately, it has no wood rot!  Therefore, the solution will be to
glue and clamp the splits and glue wooden toothpicks in all the holes
- including the screw holes.  Then, at installation time, a proper
wood screw drill bit will be used to drill new correct-size holes.

Please notice that the inner wheel-well has surface rust but the metal
is beautifully sound!  I'll clean it with MetalReady then coat it with
POR15.

Because the body metal here has bits of surface rust where the paint
has chipped off, I experimented with stripping a little of the paint
and sanding the metal.  Here's how it looks.  I've only done the upper
edge.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_154442.jpg

Here's another look where you can see the leaded corner, carefully
stripped of paint,

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_154447.jpg

And by this time, I was really tired so I put a light coat of red
primer on the bare metal and called it a day.  Sorry for the poor
focus.  In this picture the primer was not yet dry.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130420_155057.jpg

One last comment:  The screws securing the wood panel over the
differential, are terribly rusted and will almost certainly have to be
drilled out.  With a little luck, I'll be able to re-tap the threaded
metal and use new screws.  If not, I'll find some other cool way of
attaching the panel.  That's it.  Good evening.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 09:58:14 2013
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From: "Gable, Gerry" <GABLEG@ecu.edu>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Parts
Thread-Index: Ac4/cedkE6C6n3VcRNSt4wck5xJCXg==
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 15:57:03 +0000
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Subject: [Mg-t] Parts
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Can anyone help me out with a replacement seat cage for a MG-TC?
Thanks
Gerry
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 11:19:00 2013
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 12:17:55 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: wbeech@flash.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] replacement timbers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey Friends, a friend from over on the TR3 list has a wood shop where
he makes quality ash body timbers (wood).  He has made numerous TR3
parts and has offered to make TD parts for me, if needed.  I have all
I need right now, having already purchased new wood BUT...

Bill can make wood parts for you at a reduced (below Moss) price.  His
e-mail address is included on this post and repeated here:
wbeech@flash.net .

-rick
PS: I have no commercial connection with Bill.  He's just a good guy
with the same addictions we enjoy.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 12:50:46 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>, schooler <schoolerw@comcast.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Been stripping (paint
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

I spent some time this morning stripping paint and assessing rust
damage.  And of course, I took a few pictures.  To start, here's the
passenger rear quarter with the running board off and the rear wing
partially removed (read: loose).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1192.JPG

In that picture I have done nothing other than strip the paint and
wipe the metal clean.  No sanding, no grinding.  That will come later.

Here's a look at the worst damage on the entire car.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1193.JPG

The metal is rusted away and 'some' of the wood is decayed.  However,
this timber is about 2" thick so the 1/8" of wood that's
surface-eroded, is not (in my opinion) a real issue.  When poked with
a screwdriver, the wood is sound everywhere.  I'll vacuum this whole
area out, seal the timber with a wood preservative then replace the
metal.

Here's another look at the door opening.  I would have removed the
rear wing BUT, the damned previously-captive nut has broken out of its
cage.  Its also NOT available to be held, being deep down between
welded panels. :-(   Gurrrr.  I hate rusted bolts.  And in this case,
I'm going to have to cut this rusted bugger off!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1194.JPG

Here's another look.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1195.JPG

The running board came off pretty easily, for rusted bolts.  It is
beautifully undamaged and will be easily refinished.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1196.JPG

Before realizing that the front once-captive nut broke free from its
'captivity', I removed the tail light and left the wing hanging on one
top bolt (and the stuck one).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1197.JPG

After getting cleaned up, I clipped the toothpick-wood-repairs off but
haven't yet sanded the surface.  I'll wait until I've repaired the
remaining tack holes, the screw holes and any gouged wood, before
refinishing that inner surface with wood sealer.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1199.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1200.JPG

And finally, I can't believe I've gone this long - over 45 years -
restoring cars without owning a set of these wheel dollys!!!  They're
genius!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1198.JPG

Best regards from a dirty garage in Houston,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 18:04:23 2013
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 20:03:17 -0400
From: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@comcast.net>
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	mg-t@autox.team.net, Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>,  schooler
	<schoolerw@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Been stripping (paint
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Rick,

Maybe you need to slow up a bit.  For instance, the section of the hinge 
pillar that is mortised into the bottom main side isn't much more than a 
quarter inch thick.  The wooden components of the TD's frame have a 
symbiotic relationship that is important to the tub's rigidity and 
support.  These 1/8 inches can be the difference in doors latching or 
popping open.  Do you have sort of deadline that you're working toward?

Bud
Richard Lindsay wrote:
> The metal is rusted away and 'some' of the wood is decayed.  However,
> this timber is about 2" thick so the 1/8" of wood that's
> surface-eroded, is not (in my opinion) a real issue.  When poked with
> a screwdriver, the wood is sound everywhere.  I'll vacuum this whole
> area out, seal the timber with a wood preservative then replace the
> metal.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 09:07:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Well, I'm back in the fold...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Tue, Apr 23, 2013 at 9:01 AM
9:01 AM
Message starred
from Scott
Fisher to 1 recipient
I'm back in the fold...
Hide Details
From
	* Scott
Fisher
To
	* mg-t@autox.team.net 
After roughly 15 years owning Italian,
German, and Japanese cars, I'm once again a devotee of the great god Mowog.
(If we don't know each other, we will; just look through the archives for
sfisher.)

This time, I come bearing -- or borne by -- a 1951 M.G. TD. It's
incredibly original -- paint and interior just as it left the Pavlova Leather
Works 62 years ago. It's close to the color I'd call Almond Green on a Mini,
but with just a hint of sparkle to it, and a few minor touched-up scratches
here and there but no bodywork damage, apparently ever. The interior is tan;
the leather seating surfaces are cracked and the cracks are dark with years of
dust and grime, but no rips or tears. I've given it one good dousing with
leather lotion but it needs saddle soap and a soft brush first, I think.
Carpets are decent, with some wear in the passenger's heel, but I won't start
with the Moss carpet set just yet; we'll see what Woolite can do first.

The
top and side curtains were replaced some time ago; I haven't looked at either
yet, it being that rarest of things, a sunny spring day in Portland, Oregon. 
The car was brought to my attention by a longtime friend, Jeff Zurschmeide,
who currently owns his father's '59 MGA (the very car illustrated in Fred
Puhn's "How To Make Your Car Handle," with a caption to the effect that the
driver of this MGA -- Jeff's dad, at a San Diego area autocross in the Sixties
-- would enjoy his car more if it had an anti-sway bar. It still doesn't, and
the owner says it never will.) Jeff found it on the Portland Craigslist and
sent me the link. I wrote to the seller, saw it that afternoon, and agreed on
a price.

Yesterday I went back with a cashier's check and we chatted, as
Britcar folks tend to do, and after a while I took the key and started her up.
Caught immediately; I selected first, let out the clutch (it's quick to
catch!) and motored off.

I immediately noticed it was only running on three
cylinders, but kept driving in hope that it was a fouling plug that would
clear up. About a mile and a half down the road the car lost virtually all
power so I coasted to the side of the road. My wife had followed me in The
Simulator (a reference to my first drive in one of those cars -- surely you'd
recognize it, it looks like a Lotus Elan scaled up to 150%, they made a
million of 'em) so she put on the emergency flashers. I got out and was
greeted by a smiling local -- this being out in the country -- who happily
announced he had once owned a Gazelle. Took me a while to remember, they were
the Mercedes replica on Ford running gear. We popped the ignition side of the
bonnet and the problem was immediately obvious: the #1 plug had broken the
ceramic clear through, and the wire (with the insulator still in it!) was
hanging just aft of the generator. 

I went to the trunk of the Miata and took
out my tool kit. (The Miata is old enough that it's needed a couple of
roadside repairs of its own, including one time when the #1 plug actually
backed out of the head, but that's another story.) Julie, my wife (and if you
were expecting a different name, write me separately), found a couple of
spare, used plugs in the box that came with the TD, so in a moment or two I
had the old half-a-plug out and the whole one in its place. It ran, about like
you'd expect a car to run with the plug that was probably taken out because it
was running badly, but it ran.

And oh, what joy! My previous experiences with
the Sacred Octagon were all post-1965 cars, three and a half MGBs and a
chrome-bumper Midget, The Car That Started It All. Everything about those cars
made sense as I wound around the bends in the country roads between Scholls
and my home in Tualatin. The Armstrong lever shocks (...wait: T Series cars
switched TO Armstrong from something else, and I haven't looked yet) gave it a
wonderful ride with the independent front suspension (perhaps in part because
the Simulator is also my track day and autocross toy... it's a bit stiff at
the moment). The steering is amazing, it really does take only about 6" of
travel on the wheel to negotiate a 90-degree corner. And the sounds! The
smells! It's like coming home.

More later to avoid the 5K limit (yep, it's
Fisher all right, his first post is too big...)

--Scott Fisher
  Tualatin,
Oregon
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:05:22 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <1366733260.97532.YahooMailNeo@web121901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Well, I'm back in the fold...
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Welcome back.

By the way I think the yahoo, sbcglobal and btinternet snafu is under 
control.

mjb.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 16:39:05 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Here's what I found...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

...under all that rust and ugly turquoise paint: METAL

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/Hpim1210e.jpg

The dark areas are where the Restomotive's MetalReady has attacked
rust, yet to be removed, neutralized, and coated with rust sealing
primer.

Here are a couple other pictures showing the leaded ends of the facia metal.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1217.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1216.JPG

I sent an update earlier but I had too many addressees so it bounced,
awaiting admin approval.  Hopefully it will get posted soon.

-rick

PS: Just a look into the garage (before cleanup):
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1222.JPG
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 16:58:59 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] As it sits today...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

I'm writing to share a few documentation pictures of my '53 M.G.TD.
Please know that I photograph everything for MY use, not to tell you
what to do.   That's not a disclaimer, just a statement.  I write
because I like sharing the experience.  Here's how the project looks
today.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1201.JPG

I pulled a few more carpet tacks from the timbers, removed the spare
tire carrier and tank straps and removed the remaining tail light.  I
then stopped, cleaned up and took some pictures to aid in rerouting
the new electrical harness.  Here's a look at the harness area where
it exits the left-hand side frame rail.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1202.JPG

The five wires there terminate in a knot of splices.  From there a
sub-harness exits to the right where the first breakout is left-hand
brake/turn/parking light wires.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1205.JPG

In about the center-line of the car there is another breakout for the
fuel sensor and license plate lamp.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1204.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1203.JPG

You can see that the fuel outlet has been weeping.  My 5 gallon gas
can is over in the storage unit so I have not yet gotten around to
draining the tank.  It has about a gallon of old, terribly nasty
smelling fuel onboard.

Further on to the right the remaining wires from the harness dive over
the frame and under the corner of the wing, supplying power to the
right hand lighting.  I didn't get a picture of that but it is a
mirror image of the left hand side.

The harness is secured at the rear wing mounting bolt.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1207.JPG

You can see that some ugly splicing has been done.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1208.JPG

Here's another look at the harness on its way up to the left hand
lighting (opening).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1207.JPG

The insides of the wings are remarkably rust free.  When I refinish
the undersides, I'll paint them with POR15 before spraying on primer
and body color (Autumn Red).

That's it for now.  Happy Wednesday.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 24 21:18:51 2013
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] As it sits today...
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Hi Rick,


I do look forward to your posts.  It is a great encouragement!


Thanks,


Sonny



-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Apr 24, 2013 5:59 pm
Subject: [Mg-t] As it sits today...


Hello Friends,

I'm writing to share a few documentation pictures of my '53 M.G.TD.
Please know that I photograph everything for MY use, not to tell you
what to do.   That's not a disclaimer, just a statement.  I write
because I like sharing the experience.  Here's how the project looks
today.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1201.JPG

I pulled a few more carpet tacks from the timbers, removed the spare
tire carrier and tank straps and removed the remaining tail light.  I
then stopped, cleaned up and took some pictures to aid in rerouting
the new electrical harness.  Here's a look at the harness area where
it exits the left-hand side frame rail.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1202.JPG

The five wires there terminate in a knot of splices.  From there a
sub-harness exits to the right where the first breakout is left-hand
brake/turn/parking light wires.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1205.JPG

In about the center-line of the car there is another breakout for the
fuel sensor and license plate lamp.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1204.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1203.JPG

You can see that the fuel outlet has been weeping.  My 5 gallon gas
can is over in the storage unit so I have not yet gotten around to
draining the tank.  It has about a gallon of old, terribly nasty
smelling fuel onboard.

Further on to the right the remaining wires from the harness dive over
the frame and under the corner of the wing, supplying power to the
right hand lighting.  I didn't get a picture of that but it is a
mirror image of the left hand side.

The harness is secured at the rear wing mounting bolt.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1207.JPG

You can see that some ugly splicing has been done.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1208.JPG

Here's another look at the harness on its way up to the left hand
lighting (opening).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1207.JPG

The insides of the wings are remarkably rust free.  When I refinish
the undersides, I'll paint them with POR15 before spraying on primer
and body color (Autumn Red).

That's it for now.  Happy Wednesday.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/nsurles@aol.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 25 15:11:07 2013
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 16:09:42 -0500
References: <mailman.11.1366912803.20966.mg-t@autox.team.net>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 44
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick -   Adhesion of he brand finish paint you use is an issue so POR15 isn't
the best under color.  If your not careful, you will get pin holes with
POR15.

Here is the manufacture's description of POR15

POR-15. is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for
application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to an
incredible rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and
it prevents rust from recurring by protecting metal from further exposure to
moisture. Use it to coat rusty frames, floor pans, farm equipment, marine
equipment, or even a heavily corroded battery tray.





On Apr 25, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:

>
> The insides of the wings are remarkably rust free.  When I refinish
> the undersides, I'll paint them with POR15 before spraying on primer
> and body color (Autumn Red).
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 16:12:24 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] A little progress, lots left to do
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Today I spent most of my ergs repairing the garage wall at my son's
house where his wife proved once again that the car and the wall
cannot occupy the same physical space.  Once back home, and rather
pooped, I worked on the TD a little.  Specifically, I stripped more
paint from the tub and sanded away a little rust.

The wooden timbers are generally very healthy on this car, with the
exception of the one timber below the driver's door.  The aft end of
it is rotted away.  Over on the passenger side, the tub metal is
rusted through at the running board and a bit below.  I have the
replacement timbers but haven't yet begun the replacements.  So far, I
am trying to repair everything possible on the tub, using the
installation on the frame to maintain the alignment.  Both doors close
beautifully and the latches engage fully and I want to keep it that
way.

Here's a picture of that rotted timber.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1224.JPG

Despite the wood debris laying below, the timber along the bottom of
the tub is in perfectly sound shape!  Therefore, the strength of the
tub is still there.

Most of the wood elsewhere in the car is sound, such as the plywood
behind the seats.  Here's how it looks.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1225.JPG

All of the screws holding these parts together are rusted into solid
chunks.  I won't disturb the two outer bits, other than sanding, but I
will drill out the screws holding the center panel over the
differential so it will be removable for fluid-servicing the diff.

While looking around in the cockpit, here are a couple of pictures
inside the tub.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1226.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1227.JPG

This metal in these hidden places will be lightly sanded and coated
with POR15, then just primered and painted.

Moving on around the tub, here's the A-pillar.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1228.JPG

Despite looking rather ugly, this area is really sound.  I'll tighten
the wood screws and clean this area up with a wire wheel in the drill.
 I'll reinforce any holes with the toothpicks and wood glue before
reinstalling the door latches.

Here's a look at the pedals.  The rubber draft excluder is perished
but I have a new one.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1229.JPG

Back on the right rear, here's a slightly out-of-focus look at the tub
where the little tack strip ends attach.  You can see that the screws
have split the wood.  I'll put strong wood glue into those cracks then
clamp the wood back together.  Same toothpick treatment in the screw
holes, if needed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1232.JPG

Here's a look at the left rear side, where no work has been done.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1233.JPG

Here's a look at the point on the rear of the tub where one of the
tank straps and spare tire carrier attaches.  All metal damage is just
surface rust.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1234.JPG

And while on the rear end, here are two looks at the fuel tank filler.
 They will need a lot of cleaning and polishing.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1235.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1236.JPG

I still haven't gone to my storage area to get the gas can.  Into that
can, I'll drain the gallon or so of fuel from the tank.  I'll then
disconnect it and lift it away for repairs and refinishing.  BTW, its
really hard to find someone to take/recycle old gasoline!

Back in the garage today, I didn't feel like attacking rusty bolts so
I stripped paint instead.  I first removed the paint behind the door
on the passenger side, then did the same on the driver's side.  Here's
how the later looks.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1237.JPG

I have sanded the upper half of the panel, mostly to see how easily
the rust is removed.  The bad news is that its hard to remove.  The
good news is that it DOES come off leaving a nice surface for paint.
One could do the whole tub is one long, painful day.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1239.JPG

Most of the paint on the panel ahead of the door has been removed but
not yet sanded.  Same with the rest of the tub.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1238.JPG

The final two pictures for today are, first of all, of the lower left
edge of the dash top showing the leaded corner.  This side is pretty
messy, unlike the passenger side.  I'll sand and possibly fill this
area to make the surface smooth.  I suck at lead work.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1240.JPG

On the leaded corner at the rear end of the door opening, the lead
needs a little filing to reshape the joint.  Otherwise, it too will be
fine.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1241.JPG

And that's it for today.

With best regards,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 10:20:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] The TD Is Revived...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

So after nursing my new-to-me '51 TD home last Monday (swapping in a spark
plug at the roadside, to replace the one on which the ceramic had snapped in
two), I set about making a few discreet inquiries, as they say, into what was
up with it.

The dashpots were not quite dry, but certainly very low. Adding a
little light oil (actually, ATF, which I understand to be the active
ingredient in Marvel Mystery Oil) brought the level up above the brass dampers
on the rods. I still suspected much of the trouble to be in the ignition, so I
pulled the distributor cap.

The cap had no cracking or tracing, but the
carbon brush didn't retract very far when I tested its spring, suggesting it
was quite worn. The rotor had the usual discoloration indicating it was
well-used, but didn't seem abnormally so. The points gap seemed appropriate at
0.012" but my feeler gauges (which have spent many happy hours under the
rocker arms of my Midget and MGBs) are a little large to fit into the TD's
dizzy.


I was a bit more concerned with the advance mechanism. The rotor
WOULD turn when twisted, but there seemed to be some slop before the weights
and springs engaged. (I've had a distributor wear so much that the pivot holes
in the advance weights were oval, making for scattered timing at full
advance.) I simply added some more light oil down the central shaft and
returned the cap.

The car ran significantly better after this, but still had
some backfiring on acceleration about 3500 RPM. So when I went to the auto
parts store to buy rags, a soft brush, and some other bits for the cleaning, I
also ordered four spark plugs of the appropriate size (Champion L 10,
available at the warehouse, shipped to my local shop the next day). I also
bought a feeler gauge with smaller blades.


On installing the new plugs,
after gapping them to 0.022" as per the manual, I noticed that the #1 plug --
the one which had broken at the roadside, and which I replaced with an old
spare from the box the seller included -- was broken AGAIN, this time in my
plug socket. VERY odd. I think this might be due to the condition of the plug
wires, which are so old and stiff that they barely bend out of the way to get
to the plugs. Could the vibration be transferred into the #1 plug (it being
the longest wire) and weakening the porcelain? 


When I pulled the #4 plug
lead, the wire separated from the clip that holds it to the plug. Damn. I
shoved it back in as best I could and held it in place with some duct tape --
only because I had the car's first official outing the next morning. I had
already ordered the full tune-up gear from Moss, including new plug wires with
the correct screw-on ends, new cap, new rotor, new plate in the distributor
with points and soldered-in condensor, and just for fun, a new Lucas Sport
coil. (Next year: bumblebee plug wires!)

The car started as it always has,
even with only three plugs: a gentle tug on the starter switch and the car
roared to life. But even backing out of the driveway I could tell there was
more throttle response. Motoring down the road, the car felt like an M.G.
again, brisk acceleration and that wonderful straight-cut gear whine in first!
The car pulled strongly past the 5000 mark on the chronometric tach, no
backfiring apart from an incredible snap and burble from the well-worn
exhaust. (It appears to have a single cherry-bomb glass pack in the straight
tube.)

More later, including the car's first public outing and a bit of
"interior design" work...

--Scott Fisher
  Tualatin, Oregon
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	UTC
From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 13:19:26 -0500
References: <mailman.19.1367258403.11749.mg-t@autox.team.net>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 46
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rust is a difficult---  even if it looks good you should acid etch with
something like Eastwood's Fast Etch,  (then filler if needed and after sanding
acid etch metal again),  then epoxy primer then high build primer.....


On Apr 29, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:

>  have sanded the upper half of the panel, mostly to see how easily
> the rust is removed.  The bad news is that its hard to remove.  The
> good news is that it DOES come off leaving a nice surface for paint.
> One could do the whole tub is one long, painful day.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 16:08:44 2013
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 17:02:35 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Monday's TD progress
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Today I just disassembled more car, stripped more paint, created more
clutter, swept more garage.  Instead of weaving a tail, here are a
bunch of new pictures with minimal comment.

First up was the removal of the headlights.  Here's the wiring inside
the left pod.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1242.JPG

And a look at the front end with the bumper, front valance and
headlights removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1243.JPG

Here's the left front wing, now on the garage floor.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1244.JPG

The frame is in great shape and access to the engine is superb.  All
bolts on the front wing came out easily - exactly the same way the
rear ones didn't!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1245.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1246.JPG

The following pictures are included to demonstrate proper alignment of
the rubber trim.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1247.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1248.JPG

Here are a couple of pictures of the left front suspension, taken just
because this was the first time I got a good look at it.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1249.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1250.JPG

Here's a look at the left front of the tub bolts.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1251.JPG

I stopped for a moment to show you how cluttered the garage is getting.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1252.JPG

Here's the car now with most of the paint stripped from the tub and
the floor swept.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1254.JPG

The next three pictures are just documentation of the tub steel,
stripped but not sanded.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1255.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1256.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1257.JPG

Here's just another look at the car, as of 29 April 2013.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1260.JPG

Lots of coats of paint, primer and who-knows-what on the left rear
wing.  I stripped a little of the paint just for a look underneath.
There's at least three different colors of primer and two colors of
paint!  The ugly top-coat of turquoise paint is directly over the
Woodland Green, without primer.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1262.JPG

Here's the front valance, just removed.  The radiator in the box if
from the Lotus Elan.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1263.JPG

Here's a box-o-lights.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1264.JPG

And finally, just a look into the car's grill, as it sits today.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1265.JPG

I'm tired, but happy.

On top of our recent Houston flooding, we're expecting more rain.  Or
as Shmi said, "Storm's a commin' Annie."

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 17:24:43 2013
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References: <1367256011.66508.YahooMailNeo@web121906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 18:17:08 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com>, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] The TD Is Revived...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Scott, its time to check your car's compression.  Warm it up then pull
all plugs.  Remove the distributor cap or just remove the rotor.  Open
the throttle 100% and block it open.  Spin the engine on the starter
for about 4-5 revolutions with a compression gauge held into each plug
hole in turn, and record the pressures.  Gauge available at Harbor
Freight quite inexpensively.  After making the 'dry' measurements, add
about 1 teaspoon of motor oil into each cylinder, through the plug
holes, and make the 'wet' measurements, again recording the pressures.
 THEN, post the results here please.

-rick
PS: Remember, "Diagnose BEFORE surgery."

On Mon, Apr 29, 2013 at 12:20 PM, Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com> wrote:
> So after nursing my new-to-me '51 TD home last Monday (swapping in a spark
> plug at the roadside, to replace the one on which the ceramic had snapped in
> two), I set about making a few discreet inquiries, as they say, into what was
> up with it.
>
> The dashpots were not quite dry, but certainly very low. Adding a
> little light oil (actually, ATF, which I understand to be the active
> ingredient in Marvel Mystery Oil) brought the level up above the brass dampers
> on the rods. I still suspected much of the trouble to be in the ignition, so I
> pulled the distributor cap.
>
> The cap had no cracking or tracing, but the
> carbon brush didn't retract very far when I tested its spring, suggesting it
> was quite worn. The rotor had the usual discoloration indicating it was
> well-used, but didn't seem abnormally so. The points gap seemed appropriate at
> 0.012" but my feeler gauges (which have spent many happy hours under the
> rocker arms of my Midget and MGBs) are a little large to fit into the TD's
> dizzy.
>
>
> I was a bit more concerned with the advance mechanism. The rotor
> WOULD turn when twisted, but there seemed to be some slop before the weights
> and springs engaged. (I've had a distributor wear so much that the pivot holes
> in the advance weights were oval, making for scattered timing at full
> advance.) I simply added some more light oil down the central shaft and
> returned the cap.
>
> The car ran significantly better after this, but still had
> some backfiring on acceleration about 3500 RPM. So when I went to the auto
> parts store to buy rags, a soft brush, and some other bits for the cleaning, I
> also ordered four spark plugs of the appropriate size (Champion L 10,
> available at the warehouse, shipped to my local shop the next day). I also
> bought a feeler gauge with smaller blades.
>
>
> On installing the new plugs,
> after gapping them to 0.022" as per the manual, I noticed that the #1 plug --
> the one which had broken at the roadside, and which I replaced with an old
> spare from the box the seller included -- was broken AGAIN, this time in my
> plug socket. VERY odd. I think this might be due to the condition of the plug
> wires, which are so old and stiff that they barely bend out of the way to get
> to the plugs. Could the vibration be transferred into the #1 plug (it being
> the longest wire) and weakening the porcelain?
>
>
> When I pulled the #4 plug
> lead, the wire separated from the clip that holds it to the plug. Damn. I
> shoved it back in as best I could and held it in place with some duct tape --
> only because I had the car's first official outing the next morning. I had
> already ordered the full tune-up gear from Moss, including new plug wires with
> the correct screw-on ends, new cap, new rotor, new plate in the distributor
> with points and soldered-in condensor, and just for fun, a new Lucas Sport
> coil. (Next year: bumblebee plug wires!)
>
> The car started as it always has,
> even with only three plugs: a gentle tug on the starter switch and the car
> roared to life. But even backing out of the driveway I could tell there was
> more throttle response. Motoring down the road, the car felt like an M.G.
> again, brisk acceleration and that wonderful straight-cut gear whine in first!
> The car pulled strongly past the 5000 mark on the chronometric tach, no
> backfiring apart from an incredible snap and burble from the well-worn
> exhaust. (It appears to have a single cherry-bomb glass pack in the straight
> tube.)
>
> More later, including the car's first public outing and a bit of
> "interior design" work...
>
> --Scott Fisher
>   Tualatin, Oregon
> ______________________________________________
>
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 14:42:30 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Stripping paint, uggg.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

After hauling all the big metal bits to the storage unit, I spent a
couple of hours this afternoon stripping paint off of the spare tire
carrier.  What a P.I.T.A.!  Still, its coming up nicely and will look
good.  I keep telling myself that.

Here's a couple of pictures of the carrier in two stages of paint
stripping.  The first picture was taken about an hour before the
second one.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_131837.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_142757.jpg

I guess, with 20/20 hindsight, I should have researched a shop that
does sand/media blasting but as I am cheap...

-rick
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