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Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 13:53:40 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Shortest note ever...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

No TD work done today.  Grandbaby sitting.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  2 16:51:49 2013
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Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 17:40:38 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] tank straps, spare carrier, seat back mount
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Today I did a little work in the garage.  Specifically, I refinished
the spare tire carrier and the fuel tank straps.  That said,
'refinished' is a little too strong.  The bits have been stripped of
paint and rust, and primered awaiting paint.  I also worked on the
seat back attachments from the inner rear fenders.  Yes, they are
supposed to be chrome but the chrome is trashed.  Therefore, I
stripped and primered them.  I can always replace these with new
chrome units.

As a reminder, here's how the spare carrier and tank straps looked,
just after removing the spare.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1174.JPG

Once removed and on the workbench, the paint was stripped.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_142757.jpg

And here's how it looks after the paint was stripped, the rust sanded
away and a nice coat of primer added.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130502_165920.jpg

The clamp-mounts at the bottom have been cleaned and the bolts
freshened.  The wheel mounting studs are wrapped with masking tape.
The license plate lamp wiring has not been replaced but is in hand, as
is a new plate lamp assembly.  Some PO had installed an aftermarket
light.  That unit is now in the trash.  Once the spare tire frame is
painted, I'll pull in the new wiring and mount the lamp.

Here's a look at the fuel tank straps.  One has been primered, the
other stripped, sanded and ready for primer.  The threaded studs on
the bottom ends have had their threads cleaned and new nuts are now
spun on, awaiting reassembly.  And yes, one stud is bent.  I'll decide
later if its worth the risk of breaking, to straighten it.

Here's the final picture for today.  Its of the seat back attachments
on the rear inner wheel wells.  When I took the picture, the primer
was still wet.  These bits were chromed but the chrome was flaking off
with lots of rust.  After cleaning the brackets on the wire wheel, I
primered them in anticipation of painting either gloss or wrinkle
black.  I may change them out for new chrome units but for now, they
will be fresh and attractive.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130502_161826.jpg

And that concludes today's work.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May  5 10:09:51 2013
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Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 10:53:46 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] XPAG valve clearance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Please share your thoughts on valve clearance of a cold XPAG/TD2 engine.
 In short, what I am wondering is what clearance I should use on a freshly
rebuilt engine, to get it hot enough to do a proper HOT engine valve
clearance setting.  I believe the hot clearance on the later engines is
0.012" so I'm guessing that 0.018" or so cold, would be fine for the
initial warm-up.  I'd much rather suffer valve chatter for a few minutes,
than have the clearance close up due to linear expansion.  Your thoughts?

-rick

PS: No, I'm nowhere near that point.  Its just a question dancing around in
my scattered mind this morning...
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May  5 10:24:39 2013
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Date: Sun, 05 May 2013 12:11:00 -0400
From: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@comcast.net>
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To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, mg-t@autox.team.net
References: <CAOc+-dz2diJCZ0R+vu3YarOnEVGqF64OXnAbQVw68XNK_mVmHQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] XPAG valve clearance
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What camshaft is in the engine?

Bud
Richard Lindsay wrote:
> Hi Friends,
>
> Please share your thoughts on valve clearance of a cold XPAG/TD2 engine.
>   In short, what I am wondering is what clearance I should use on a freshly
> rebuilt engine, to get it hot enough to do a proper HOT engine valve
> clearance setting.  I believe the hot clearance on the later engines is
> 0.012" so I'm guessing that 0.018" or so cold, would be fine for the
> initial warm-up.  I'd much rather suffer valve chatter for a few minutes,
> than have the clearance close up due to linear expansion.  Your thoughts?
>
> -rick
>
> PS: No, I'm nowhere near that point.  Its just a question dancing around in
> my scattered mind this morning...
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/budkrueger@comcast.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May  5 19:24:47 2013
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 01:17:01 GMT
To: richardolindsay@gmail.com
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] XPAG valve clearance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Rick,
   If you know with certainty that the camshaft in the engine is original, its
safe to set clearances as directed by MG. if you are not certain which, of
several once-available cams it is, then identifying it will be necessary.
   The .019 clearance for the earlier cam is plenty loose, so you can set that
cold then adjust again hot. The .012 for the later cam could, one supposes, be
set a thou or two loose initially, then adjusted hot, though I can't recall
anyone doing that.
   Mine is a Crane cam that was so noisy that i called Crane. The engineer
said that the instruction clearance was for hard running and racing, and to
use smaller clearances for normal driving.  I forget what they are, but can
look them up for you if needed.
   Some do the first start with only one spring per valve.
Bob



---------- Original Message ----------
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] XPAG valve clearance
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 10:53:46 -0500

Hi Friends,

Please share your thoughts on valve clearance of a cold XPAG/TD2 engine.
 In short, what I am wondering is what clearance I should use on a freshly
rebuilt engine, to get it hot enough to do a proper HOT engine valve
clearance setting.  I believe the hot clearance on the later engines is
0.012" so I'm guessing that 0.018" or so cold, would be fine for the
initial warm-up.  I'd much rather suffer valve chatter for a few minutes,
than have the clearance close up due to linear expansion.  Your thoughts?

-rick

PS: No, I'm nowhere near that point.  Its just a question dancing around in
my scattered mind this morning...
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May  5 21:28:25 2013
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References: <CAOc+-dz2diJCZ0R+vu3YarOnEVGqF64OXnAbQVw68XNK_mVmHQ@mail.gmail.com>
From: Mike E <redscirocco@hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 23:23:52 -0400
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[235E8080:01CE4A09]
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] XPAG valve clearance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,

This doesn't answer your question about a cold clearance setting, but I
believe John Twist recommends setting later XPAGs with a factory cam at .015
(hot).  He says .012 is too tight. He also recommends the go/no go method, in
which you use a .014 feeler and a .016 feeler - when the .014 feeler will go
in the gap, and the .016 won't, then it's set right.


Here's a video showing how he does it.
http://youtu.be/fezXUwVfH7U

I think .018 or a little less would be fine for the inaugural warmup.

-Mike

Sent from my iPad

On May 5, 2013, at 12:08, "Richard Lindsay" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi Friends,
>
> Please share your thoughts on valve clearance of a cold XPAG/TD2 engine.
> In short, what I am wondering is what clearance I should use on a freshly
> rebuilt engine, to get it hot enough to do a proper HOT engine valve
> clearance setting.  I believe the hot clearance on the later engines is
> 0.012" so I'm guessing that 0.018" or so cold, would be fine for the
> initial warm-up.  I'd much rather suffer valve chatter for a few minutes,
> than have the clearance close up due to linear expansion.  Your thoughts?
>
> -rick
>
> PS: No, I'm nowhere near that point.  Its just a question dancing around in
> my scattered mind this morning...
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco@hotmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May  6 15:49:08 2013
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 16:46:52 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Sand, repair, primer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Back in the garage today.  Yesterday we took the new grandson (and his
parents) to the Houston Polish Festival.  Great fun.  Great food.
Lots of music and dancing.

In the garage this morning my first quest was to remove the hinges
from the side curtain door.  One of the hinges was broken off, the
other so rusty that it would barely move.  I'll replace the hinges
with generic units.  The T-nuts are ruined but are easily replaced
from the bins at Ace hardware.

Here's how the door looks at the hinge point.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130506_103051.jpg

The wood will be repaired, redrilled to match the new hinges, and then
new T-nuts will be installed.  Only then will the door be recovered.

Next step was to remove the right front wing.  Fortunately, it came
off with only a minimal fight.  After that, the bolts holding the
radiator shell to the radiator frame were removed.  Some cake out
without much trouble.  Three had to be drilled out.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130506_105932.jpg

The rear lip of the radiator shell has been abused, all around, but
will be easily repaired with a little hammer and dolly work.

I then moved on to the windscreen mount area where the metal was rust
pitted.  Here's how it looked right after removing the windscreen.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1090.JPG

The paint was stripped and the area was then sanded down to bare metal.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1255.JPG

And then the rust pitted area was coated with Metal Ready then when
dry and cleaned again, it was painted with POR15.  I know there are
various arguments about POR15 but I have had GREAT luck using it under
paint.  After the POR15 cured, I added a tiny bit of body filler to
infill the divots left by the rust.  Yes, most of the damage is under
the windscreen hardware but I did put the mount in place and verified
that the damage was exposed ahead of the mount.  After sanding the
filler down to the metal contour leaving filler in the divots, I
sprayed it with primer - still wet in this picture.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130506_104944.jpg

Moving a bit down and aft, I cleaned and primered the the left front
and left rear sides of the tub.  The sill still needs sanding and a
little more work.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1269.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1271.JPG

Some work is still needed at the leaded joint at the top of the
B-post.  A little careful application of body filler will reshape this
area.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1270.JPG

In that previous picture you can see the inner wheelwell undercoated
with POR15, awaiting sanding and primer.

Before moving back to the workbench to clean things up and put freshly
removed parts in baggies, I cleaned and primered the top of the dash.
Here's how it looks as the first coat of primer begins drying.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1268.JPG

I did do one other test.  A kind listmember told me that the nasty
looking fuel filler would polish up nicely.  Here's a before and after
pair of pictures.  The 'after' picture is has not been polished at
this stage, just cleaned!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1116.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1273.JPG

This work is not the final solution but the primer is a layer of
protection while working on the rest of the tub.  Once all the rusty
bolts are out, I'll lift the tub from the chassis.  Until then, I need
to put order back in the garage...and that's what I'll go do now.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 18:06:02 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Define 'contrast'...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

'Contrast' defined!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130506_173608.jpg

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  7 13:22:02 2013
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 14:19:41 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Some work on the grill
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Today I picked up a lot of clutter in the garage and rebuilt the
radiator shell and grill.  That wasn't my intent this morning, but its
the work that got done.  Pictures follow.

The work started with polishing part of the radiator shell, just as a
test.  Here's how it looked.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1274.JPG

Here are a few pictures of the radiator after the shell and screen
were removed.  These were taken as an aid to reassembly.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1275.JPG

Obviously the grill was resprayed turquoise while in place.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1276.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1277.JPG

Here's how the shell looked, partially polished, sitting on the garage floor.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1278.JPG

Careful disassembly allowed the grill to be removed without damage to
the grill, the studs or the brass nuts.  Here's how the grill looks on
the bench.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1281.JPG

Here is the grill, now coated with paint stripper.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1282.JPG

Once stripped of paint and the rust sanded away, the grill was
primered with Rusoleum Rusty Metal Primer.  The primer is beginning to
dry in this picture.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1283.JPG

Here's another look with a second coat of primer.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1285.JPG

Here's the grill with the first coat of paint - an SEM  color to match
the Honey Tan interior.  In this case, the think coat of red primer is
still showing through the paint.  It got another couple of coats,
leaving it a good match for the leather..

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130507_120026.jpg

And finally, here is the shell and grill, all refinished and reassembled.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1286.JPG

Once there is a super thin coat of black paint on the radiator, the
grill will look great.

And now I just realized that I have tan paint under a couple of
fingernails.  Poo.  Hole in the glove.

Happy Tuesday!

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  7 14:36:12 2013
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From: Gene Gillam <anngene@bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 15:33:47 -0500
References: <CAOc+-dxt56TRzsNUcou8=Rz4QaKnRzmoMyZasyrm4onBwbbrdQ@mail.gmail.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Some work on the grill
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Damn but you work fastor do you get started at 4 am?

Gene Gillam
Saucier, MS

On May 7, 2013, at 2:19 PM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi Friends,
>
> Today I picked up a lot of clutter in the garage and rebuilt the
> radiator shell and grill.  That wasn't my intent this morning, but its
> the work that got done.  Pictures follow.
>
> The work started with polishing part of the radiator shell, just as a
> test.  Here's how it looked.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1274.JPG
>
> Here are a few pictures of the radiator after the shell and screen
> were removed.  These were taken as an aid to reassembly.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1275.JPG
>
> Obviously the grill was resprayed turquoise while in place.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1276.JPG
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1277.JPG
>
> Here's how the shell looked, partially polished, sitting on the garage
floor.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1278.JPG
>
> Careful disassembly allowed the grill to be removed without damage to
> the grill, the studs or the brass nuts.  Here's how the grill looks on
> the bench.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1281.JPG
>
> Here is the grill, now coated with paint stripper.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1282.JPG
>
> Once stripped of paint and the rust sanded away, the grill was
> primered with Rusoleum Rusty Metal Primer.  The primer is beginning to
> dry in this picture.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1283.JPG
>
> Here's another look with a second coat of primer.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1285.JPG
>
> Here's the grill with the first coat of paint - an SEM  color to match
> the Honey Tan interior.  In this case, the think coat of red primer is
> still showing through the paint.  It got another couple of coats,
> leaving it a good match for the leather..
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130507_120026.jpg
>
> And finally, here is the shell and grill, all refinished and reassembled.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1286.JPG
>
> Once there is a super thin coat of black paint on the radiator, the
> grill will look great.
>
> And now I just realized that I have tan paint under a couple of
> fingernails.  Poo.  Hole in the glove.
>
> Happy Tuesday!
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/anngene@bellsouth.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	UTC
From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 14:08:32 -0500
References: <mailman.15.1368036003.17078.mg-t@autox.team.net>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Bulk] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 54
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick, 

I'm curious what you plans for painting the car are.  

Mike


> 
> Once stripped of paint and the rust sanded away, the grill was
> primered with Rusoleum Rusty Metal Primer.  The primer is beginning to
> dry in this picture.
> 
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1283.JPG
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  8 15:24:35 2013
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2013 16:22:07 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mike@duvallvideo.com, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Bulk] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 54
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh man. B What a question! B  Until today, my mind was made up. B Now I'm waffling - a littleB 

The interior will be Honey Tan with Honey Tan carpet. B That's already in the garage in storage. B I took advantage of that 30% Moss discount, offered earlier.

The most likely color will be Autumn Red. B I know that color was not an option in 1953, but I really like it! B  But also in the running is medium gray metallic and two-tone gray (light gray body, darker gray wings). B Dark red will probably win. B After all red/tan is a Ferrari standard. B :-P

Today I talked with a paint shop about media blasting, etch primer, infilling the rubbley surface rust areas and painting the wings, running boards and doors with me painting the tub. B I'll use the same paint the shop uses. B It will be a single stage, non-metallic paint. B Cost estimate was $1500. B 

Given what I paid to have my 308GTB painted, $1500 is free!

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.

-------- Original message --------
From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com> 
Date: 05/08/2013  2:08 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: mg-t@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Bulk] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 54 
 
Rick, 

I'm curious what you plans for painting the car are.B  

Mike


> 
> Once stripped of paint and the rust sanded away, the grill was
> primered with Rusoleum Rusty Metal Primer.B  The primer is beginning to
> dry in this picture.
> 
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1283.JPG
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  8 16:04:42 2013
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 16:59:13 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Fuel tank removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Today I removed the fuel tank from my TD.  The tank is sound but has a
coating of surface rust.  Inside its pretty clean and it doesn't leak.

Step one was draining the gallon or so of nasty old fuel.  My wife
HATES the smell of old gasoline so I did that job while she was out
for coffee with a friend.  After the tank was empty, by removing the
drain plug, I removed the fuel outlet assembly.  The filter is
completely plugged.  I'll soak it in carb cleaner to see if it will
clean up acceptably well.  More on that later.

I also removed the fuel level switch and found that it wouldn't move.
That's a project for another day.  I'll report back on that later
also.

Here's a look at the tank, laying in the driveway, washed inside and
out with soap and water.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130508_141523.jpg

Once it dries on the outside, I'll route my shop-vac's output air into
the tank until it dries thoroughly.  Then I'll look in the tank
carefully with my bore scope and decide if it needs to be coated.  I
have a Moss kit, if needed.

Here's how the rear of the car looks with the tank removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130508_141536.jpg

I have since stripped the paint from the metal on the tub.  In this
picture, I had not yet sanded the metal but have since done so.  Its
currently drying with a coat of MetalReady on it, neutralizing rust.
Here's how it looked after the first strip.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130508_150441.jpg

I don't plan on stripping the wood or removing the the tank pads.
I'll just sand the wood, mask the pads, primer and paint.

And that's it for Wednesday.  Fun work on the bench coming, fixing the
fuel sensor and the fuel outlet filter.  Woohoo.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  8 16:20:07 2013
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From: Gene Gillam <anngene@bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 17:15:03 -0500
References: <CAOc+-dw=9z2gmFLdsRQPSBD9xPTH+CY7CKXVKWcbsmECC+ndiQ@mail.gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fuel tank removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,

Fuel sending units are notoriously hard to seal to the gas tankand the
sending units are basically useless since they're simply a "You got gas"/"You
ain't got a lot of gas" indicator.  I highly recommend you blank off the tank
sending unit area and use a stick as your gas gauge.  IF you succeed in
getting your sending unit to work take extra care making sure the surface
against the tank it perfectly straight OR IT WILL NOT SEAL and you'll have gas
leaking all the time.

Been there, done that
Gene Gillam
Saucier, MS



On May 8, 2013, at 4:59 PM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi Friends,
>
> I also removed the fuel level switch and found that it wouldn't move.
> That's a project for another day.  I'll report back on that later
> also.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 06:38:14 2013
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From: "Gable, Gerry" <GABLEG@ecu.edu>
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mike@duvallvideo.com"
	<mike@duvallvideo.com>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mg-t] [Bulk] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 54
Thread-Index: AQHOTDIXFQ3Y3k7fw0uCQmCg1L8Z7Zj8yV5w
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 12:35:36 +0000
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Accept-Language: en-US
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Bulk] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 54
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Speaking of paints I wondered if anyone could tell what paint and the color
formula for the yellowish TC - which was it original color - to use.
Thanks
Gerry


-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rick Lindsay
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 5:22 PM
To: mike@duvallvideo.com; mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Bulk] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 54

Oh man. B What a question! B  Until today, my mind was made up. B Now I'm
waffling - a littleB

The interior will be Honey Tan with Honey Tan carpet. B That's already in the
garage in storage. B I took advantage of that 30% Moss discount, offered
earlier.

The most likely color will be Autumn Red. B I know that color was not an
option in 1953, but I really like it! B  But also in the running is medium
gray metallic and two-tone gray (light gray body, darker gray wings). B Dark
red will probably win. B After all red/tan is a Ferrari standard. B :-P

Today I talked with a paint shop about media blasting, etch primer, infilling
the rubbley surface rust areas and painting the wings, running boards and
doors with me painting the tub. B I'll use the same paint the shop uses. B It
will be a single stage, non-metallic paint. B Cost estimate was $1500. B

Given what I paid to have my 308GTB painted, $1500 is free!

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just
like a BlackBerry.

-------- Original message --------
From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: 05/08/2013  2:08 PM  (GMT-06:00)
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Bulk] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 54

Rick,

I'm curious what you plans for painting the car are.B

Mike


>
> Once stripped of paint and the rust sanded away, the grill was
> primered with Rusoleum Rusty Metal Primer.B  The primer is beginning
> to dry in this picture.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1283.JPG
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/richardolindsay@gmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:31:09 -0500
References: <c8n9fwxgr993v5cf8077umel.1368048127814@email.android.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Bulk] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 54
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hard to beat red!


On May 8, 2013, at 4:22 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> Oh man.  What a question!   Until today, my mind was made up.  Now I'm
waffling - a little
>
> The interior will be Honey Tan with Honey Tan carpet.  That's already in the
garage in storage.  I took advantage of that 30% Moss discount, offered
earlier.
>
> The most likely color will be Autumn Red.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 10:42:09 2013
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:37:41 -0500
References: <c8n9fwxgr993v5cf8077umel.1368048127814@email.android.com>
	<F0552312647DC949AC4CC9399848964DCAED8158@Moe.intra.ecu.edu>
To: "Gable, Gerry" <GABLEG@ecu.edu>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Bulk] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 54
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Go here for paint formulas....

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgtd/mgtd_finishes.htm#Ivory

On May 9, 2013, at 7:35 AM, Gable, Gerry wrote:

> Speaking of paints I wondered if anyone could tell what paint and the color
formula for the yellowish TC - which was it original color - to use.
> Thanks
> Gerry
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 18:44:37 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Some work on the Cowl
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Spent some time in the garage today.  First of all, I got out all the
new parts that I bought back when Moss was having that big sale.  I
then paired them with the parts previously removed.  For example, I
had cleaned and refinished the seat-back attachments previously.  I
got those bits back out, selected bolts and nuts, and the all the new
chrome hardware I got on sale, and then put the assemblies into
'kits'.

I next sanded the body tub below the running board line, on the left
hand side.  I then primered it and once dry, filled the rubbley pits
will a thin film of body filler.  More on that in a minute.  While all
of that was drying and curing, I removed all the various bits from the
cowl.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130511_151418.jpg

I then cleaned those various mounts in preparation for repainting
black.  Here's how they look now, mostly cleaned up on the wire wheel.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130511_175552.jpg

Disclaimer:  I don't care for Starbucks politics, but the do make good coffee.

I then sanded the metal clean on the left hand side of the cowl, and
applied primer.  Its still drying in this picture, leading to the
mottled appearance in the photo.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130511_175607.jpg

I'll work my way across the cowl, cleaning and primering as I go.
Here's another look at the whole area.  The quarter ahead of the rear
wing mount still needs a little filler to bring the repair up to
level.  In this picture, the primer there was still drying.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130511_175625.jpg

And now, everything is resting - including me. The last picture is of
the VIN, from the left front frame horn: TD28464.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130510_140951.jpg

Tomorrow morning, after the Spanish F1 Grand Prix, I'll primer then
paint the various cowl brackets and the headlight dimmer switch.  I'll
then select new bolts and nuts to attach these bits and assemble them
into kits, awaiting reassembly.  Yea, I know its kinda OCD, but hey,
this IS a hobby.

Happy Saturday,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 12:48:58 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] TD running board treads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

My TD's running boards are in good shape but of course, they'll get painted with the rest of the car. B And the aluminum strips are in good condition...and riveted on. B  There is no rust at the strips. This leads me to the question; Do I drill out the rivets and install the new Al strips, OR, just use the strips I have after media blasting? B They will be matte aluminum after media blasting BUT, the new strips I have now are also matte finish! B I'm thinking I should leave them in place, mask them off before primer and paint, then install the new rubber treads after the paint cures. B 

Thoughts? B Advice? B Thanks.

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.
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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 10:52:56 -0700
References: <rulrtjuag4sm9wrn1egrr8vw.1368380938339@email.android.com>
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD running board treads
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I would recommend removing them. Easier to paint.
You could buff, or scotchbright after blasting, to give a shine.
I place a #10 nylon washer between the strips and the running board.
Easier to clean under the strips, once attached again.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On May 12, 2013, at 10:48 AM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> Hi Friends,
>
> My TD's running boards are in good shape but of course, they'll get painted
with the rest of the car. B And the aluminum strips are in good
condition...and riveted on. B  There is no rust at the strips. This leads me
to the question; Do I drill out the rivets and install the new Al strips, OR,
just use the strips I have after media blasting? B They will be matte aluminum
after media blasting BUT, the new strips I have now are also matte finish! B
I'm thinking I should leave them in place, mask them off before primer and
paint, then install the new rubber treads after the paint cures. B
>
> Thoughts? B Advice? B Thanks.
>
> -rick
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just
like a BlackBerry.
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
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From: Gene Gillam <anngene@bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 13:01:28 -0500
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	<8C9A0144-0B9F-40B6-87D2-DC3D32E75071@earthlink.net>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD running board treads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Agree with John
Gene


On May 12, 2013, at 12:52 PM, John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net> wrote:

> I would recommend removing them. Easier to paint.
> You could buff, or scotchbright after blasting, to give a shine.
> I place a #10 nylon washer between the strips and the running board.
> Easier to clean under the strips, once attached again.
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Gene Gillam" <anngene@bellsouth.net>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] TD running board treads
Date: Sun, May 12, 2013 13:01


Agree with John
Gene


On May 12, 2013, at 12:52 PM, John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net> wrote:

> I would recommend removing them. Easier to paint.
> You could buff, or scotchbright after blasting, to give a shine.
> I place a #10 nylon washer between the strips and the running board.
> Easier to clean under the strips, once attached again.
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD running board treads
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 5/12/2013 12:52 PM, John Seim wrote:

I would recommend removing them. Easier to paint. >>

ABSOLUTELY, Rick.  If you don't you (painter <G>) will NEVER get a good
layer of any spray under the strips !  ! !  Begs for rust <G> ! !

Ed

PS:  And YEP to John's:
<quote>
I place a #10 nylon washer between the strips and the running board.
</quote>

PPS:  You also have the ARCHIVES for checking the Oil Filter <VBG> !
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 17:43:52 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD running board treads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks everyone.

On Sun, May 12, 2013 at 2:24 PM, spook01@comcast.net
<spook01@comcast.net> wrote:
> Yep.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Gene Gillam" <anngene@bellsouth.net>
> To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mg-t] TD running board treads
> Date: Sun, May 12, 2013 13:01
>
>
> Agree with John
> Gene
>
>
> On May 12, 2013, at 12:52 PM, John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>> I would recommend removing them. Easier to paint.
>> You could buff, or scotchbright after blasting, to give a shine.
>> I place a #10 nylon washer between the strips and the running board.
>> Easier to clean under the strips, once attached again.
>>
>> John Seim
>> Irvine, CA
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
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> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 09:27:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com>
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mg-t@autox.team.net"
	<mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD running board treads
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

> I'm thinking I should leave them in place, mask them off before primer 
and
> paint, then install the new rubber treads after the paint cures.

When I
used to put together 1/24-scale cars instead of 1/1-scale, I learned a Great
Truth:

The eye can see where the brush can't reach.

There is a time and
place for masking carefully and painting "in situ," and this isn't it, not
with everything else you're doing to the car. Aside from it being The Right
Thing, it will probably take less time. Every time I try to take a shortcut,
it causes so many other issues that I usually give up and do it the right way.
I've finally learned to do that right off the bat.


Take 'em off, brush and
polish to the finish you like, but paint the running boards with the
al-you-minnie-um tread bits off the car, then install them.

--Scott Fisher
 
The Last Homely House East of the Sea
  Tualatin, Oregon
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 14 11:03:21 2013
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 11:59:15 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Small bits of progress
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Good morning Friends,

This morning I cleaned out the interior.  It had filled up with
debris, sanding dust, worn out sandpaper, cut off bolts, nails, tacks,
strips of carpet, etc..  I picked up the big pieces, stuff larger than
a quarter, then vacuumed everything out.  With that done, I could sit
on the floorboards and unscrew the transmission cover screws and
passenger foot rest.  All but two of the remaining traney cover screws
came out okay but two are rusted solid.  They will be drilled out.

After completing the clean up, I removed the radiator.  I had to cut
the hoses but everything else lifted out just fine.  Here's how the
front of the engine looks now.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_093841.jpg

A tiny bit of coolant spilled, but I had drained the system earlier.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_093910.jpg

Here's a look at the front engine mount.  Grimy oil is a good rust
preventative, in places.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_093930.jpg

I don't know if the stock thermostat will clean up and work properly,
but that's a pretty easy test.  I'll replace, if I need to do so.
Here's how it looks right after cutting the hose free.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_093939.jpg

The next couple of pictures are just documentation of the engine, in situ.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_094026.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_094035.jpg

I'll continue cleaning the front of the tub after lifting the engine
and transmission free.

And finally, here's just a quick picture of the radiator, leaning
against a tire.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_094044.jpg

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 14 11:13:08 2013
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 12:10:16 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Electric fan
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

I live in the blast furnace known as 'summertime in Houston, Texas'.
Around here, old British cars suffer in the summer heat without a
little modern help.  To that end, I would like to add an electric fan
to my TD upon reassembly.  Those puppies can draw a lot of current so
matching the fan to the capacity of the electrical system will be
paramount.

Another question arises; Is there room to fit an electric pancake fan
between the radiator and the grill?  I could certainly fit one behind
the radiator if I omit the mechanical fan, but I would rather have the
electric fan out of sight.

What have you guys done, if anything?

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 14 12:07:24 2013
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 18:01:06 GMT
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Electric fan
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

  TDs have large radiators for their size. Overheating, if engine and cooling
system are in good nick, is rare. My engine ran happily in Richmond VA for
years, then in Sarasota FL, both places in all seasons, and its temp gauge has
never hit 100.  That is with the standard fan, and 40-50% ethylene glycol
antifreeze.  Some TD owners have installed the plastic fan used on MGBs. It is
said to be a direct bolt-on, though I have not tried it.  You may not need an
electric fan.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Electric fan
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 12:10:16 -0500

Hello Friends,

I live in the blast furnace known as 'summertime in Houston, Texas'.
Around here, old British cars suffer in the summer heat without a
little modern help.  To that end, I would like to add an electric fan
to my TD upon reassembly.  Those puppies can draw a lot of current so
matching the fan to the capacity of the electrical system will be
paramount.

Another question arises; Is there room to fit an electric pancake fan
between the radiator and the grill?  I could certainly fit one behind
the radiator if I omit the mechanical fan, but I would rather have the
electric fan out of sight.

What have you guys done, if anything?

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 14 12:23:55 2013
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User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/12.30.0.110427
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 14:20:56 -0400
From: Stuart Keen <simbafish@comcast.net>
To: Bob HOWARD <mgbob@juno.com>, MG <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mg-t] Electric fan
Thread-Index: Ac5Qz8aOH3Q2C8kZxUe+ng1Whr8VmQ==
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Electric fan
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I can vouch for the fact that the 7 blade plastic MGB fan is a direct
replacement. I installed one about 10 years ago and have been contented with
the radiator9s performance ever since. It is much lighter and therefore
possibly less wear and tear on bearings, bushings etc. The only problem is
that it9s Bright Yellow! My TD (MKII) runs all over Florida in peak summer
(ambient 95+ deg F) and the water rarely exceeds 87 dg C. The only time it
has exceeded that was ten years ago driving across the Mojave Desert in
October. The ambient temperature in the shade was 110 deg F, and the TD9s
water exceeded 100 deg C (boiling) - resulting in a hole in #2 piston.

Stu Keen
1951 MG TD Mk II
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 15 14:55:44 2013
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 15:45:26 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Wheels seal?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey friends,

Quick question: B Will YD steel wheels, reconditioned, work with tubless tires? B That is, will they seal? B Or must tubes be used?

Thanks,

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 16 04:25:23 2013
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References: <tjf93iqiynxa6outvcmkaqtl.1368650726077@email.android.com>
From: Mike E <redscirocco@hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 06:22:21 -0400
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[3FE5ED60:01CE521F]
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Wheels seal?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick, I've been using tubeless tires on my TF OEM steel wheels for several
decades with no problems.

Mike Eldred

Sent from my iPod Touch

On May 15, 2013, at 16:53, "Rick Lindsay" <richardolindsay@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey friends,
>
> Quick question: B Will YD steel wheels, reconditioned, work with tubless
tires? B That is, will they seal? B Or must tubes be used?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -rick
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just
like a BlackBerry.
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 10:27:54 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Resolution, was: Wheels seal?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks everyone for the valued responses.

My decision is to go for radial tires in 165R15 size, tubeless on
media blasted, trued (as needed) and refinished wheels, using new
stems.  If the metal is pitted in any way around the stem opening,
I'll use metal bolt-in stems as they may seal better.  Again, thanks
everyone.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 17:42:54 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Almost ready to lift the tub
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

I've removed the floor boards from my '53 TD, mostly by drilling out
the heads of the bolts!  The new boards will be either re-drilled to
use new holes in the supports, or the the old rusty screws will be
drilled out and re-tapped.  But I'm not there yet.  However, its time
to start pulling the tub bolts.  The first one was a nightmare and is
going to have to be cut off.  I don't expect the next five to be any
easier.  I do have to admit that there is light at the end of the
tub-removal-tunnel.

I do have a few pictures to share.  Here's how the gearbox and prop
shaft look after removing the tunnel and tranny cover.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130515_154105.jpg

And here's a look from the other side.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130515_154145.jpg

You may notice that I have already removed (and left laying almost in
place) the two angle frames that support the inner edges of the floor
boards.  I'll cut the screws off and re-tap the holes if I can't back
the screw shanks out with oil and heat.

I took a few pictures of the pedal assembly and master cylinder but
they're poor focus and I'll have better pictures when I address that
area.

The last project for this abbreviated day, was to repair the wooden
panel over the differential.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130515_154208.jpg

Again, the screws are rusted in place so I will cut them off.  Instead
of trying to replace the T-Nuts into damaged wood, I chose to drill
new holes nearby, install new T-Nuts in the supports below.  Here's
how the board looks now with the old holes filled and new holes
drilled and countersunk.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130516_160307.jpg

Here's the same area with a new screw resting in place.  I chose
Phillips because the screw heads are stronger.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130516_160332.jpg

And here's how the entire board looks while the wood filler is still
still curing but with the new holes ready.  I'll refinish the board in
satin black after sanding, especially at the infilled areas.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130516_162252.jpg

Once everything is cured and dried I'll put the board in place and
drill through the open holes to locate the T-Nuts that will be
installed below.

-rick
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Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 17 15:27:33 2013
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From: "Gene" <crownwheel@comcast.net>
To: "'Richard Lindsay'" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>,
  <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOc+-dybAkQ3TS_Sp-50ZiiJK0ZSLisrZ7SSYrsg-6zyy-ZaQA@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Resolution, was: Wheels seal?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

A cautionary note. Looking at this in the loss-prevention line, I would not
want to be involved in an accident as a result of having tubeless tyres on a
wheel designed for tube type tyres and having the insurance carrier refuse
coverage.
Gene
Vermont

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Lindsay
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 11:28 AM
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Resolution, was: Wheels seal?

Thanks everyone for the valued responses.

My decision is to go for radial tires in 165R15 size, tubeless on media
blasted, trued (as needed) and refinished wheels, using new stems.  If the
metal is pitted in any way around the stem opening, I'll use metal bolt-in
stems as they may seal better.  Again, thanks everyone.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/crownwheel@comcast.net
______________________________________________

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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 18 09:55:22 2013
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 09:50:05 -0600
From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 61
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

On the subject of pulling old bolts when you REALLY don't want to 
destroy things, try a solution of 50% ATF and 50% acetone. Shake it till 
it's pink and brush it on. It's the best penetrating oil I've found. 
I've had fasteners that wouldn't give up to it, but very few. As with 
any other penetrating oil, let soak until you get movement in either 
direction, let soak some more. If you've got movement in either 
direction, the thread WILL give way unless something is horribly wrong.

How you take things apart has a direct bearing on how they get put back 
together again. I know it's old wisdom, but it bears repeating.

Glenn


On 5/17/2013 12:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Hello Friends,
>
> I've removed the floor boards from my '53 TD, mostly by drilling out
> the heads of the bolts!  The new boards will be either re-drilled to
> use new holes in the supports, or the the old rusty screws will be
> drilled out and re-tapped.  But I'm not there yet.  However, its time
> to start pulling the tub bolts.  The first one was a nightmare and is
> going to have to be cut off.  I don't expect the next five to be any
> easier.  I do have to admit that there is light at the end of the
> tub-removal-tunnel.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 18 13:10:08 2013
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	<5197A32D.8070102@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 14:06:48 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 61
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Glenn,

You wrote,

> On the subject of pulling old bolts when you REALLY don't want to destroy
> things, try a solution of 50% ATF and 50% acetone... If you've got movement
> in either direction, the thread WILL give way unless something is horribly wrong.

Thanks for the advice Glenn.  I doubt that ANY magic solution would
address this level of rust damage.  See attached.

> How you take things apart has a direct bearing on how they get put back
> together again. I know it's old wisdom, but it bears repeating.

I don't know whether this is a statement of general philosophy or
admonishment of my work techniques.  I assure you, and I don't know
why, that anything original to this car that can be saved is being
saved.  However, a rusty, stretched bolt is going to get replaced,
independent of how it is removed.  Did I misread your intent?

-rick
attachment

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of rusty_bolt.jpg]
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Tuck Southworth <tuck.southworth@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 17:42:33 -0400
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Mgs] A little TD work
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
Really like following your posts and the pics.  One phrase you used has me
concerned.  Distorted fan blades.  On more then one occasion I have seen
distorted fan blades shear off and dig right into the radiator.  Considering
the cost I'd think about replacing that fan.  You even have some options on
what to replace it with.
just my 2 cnt's
Tuck

Sent from my iPad

On May 18, 2013, at 11:03 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi Friends, and good morning,
>
> Here's a picture of the now repaired and refinished middle access
> board from over the TD's differential.  The old holes have been
> plugged, the new ones drilled, countersunk, and the the final coat of
> semi-gloss black paint is drying.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1291.JPG
>
>
>
> And just for fun, here's a picture of a pile of assorted rusty bolts -
> some to be reused, some to be archived, and a few trashed!
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1290.JPG
>
> Following that, here are a couple more pictures, just for
> documentation, as the engine tear-down begins.  These are taken
> specifically to answer some of the niggling questions upon reassembly.
> For example; Which way did the bolt go in?  Which end had the
> lockwasher? etc..  That said, it is a mistake to believe without
> question, that the way an old car is assembled TODAY is the the way
> the mechanics assembled it 60 years ago!  These kinds of pictures and
> exploded views in the workshop and parts manuals (and of course, the
> MG-T List) should all be used together! :-)
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1293.JPG
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1292.JPG
>
> One area needing attention is the fan spacer.  It is broken and a new
> piece from Moss will be ordered as soon as I have all the engine parts
> needs in hand.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130517_101329.jpg
>
> Here's a picture of the fan blades with the rusty metal primer drying.
> Yes, they were rusty but I cleaned away all the rust.  Still, rust
> makes pits and this primer is better for that situation.  I also
> straightened both blades where they were a bit distorted, probably by
> impact with something.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130517_094605.jpg
>
> I painted the fan blades with gloss black engine paint.  And as I have
> said before, 'gloss' paint from a spray can dries to the desired
> semi-gloss.
>
> And while the paint was drying, I repaired more wood and screw holes.
> Cracks in the wood where over-sized screws were used by some PO, are
> repaired.  Once fully dry, the toothpicks are cut off and proper screw
> holes will be drilled.   BTW, MinWax brand wood hardener does a nice
> job of strengthening the body timbers - especially where screw holes
> are drilled.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130517_092008.jpg
>
> That's it for this morning.  This work was done yesterday.  Today,
> I'll get a little more time working on the old boy.
>
> -rick
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/tuck.southworth@gmail.com
______________________________________________

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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 19 09:55:48 2013
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Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 10:52:28 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] A morning puttering in the garage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

A few more words and pictures follow.

This morning I cleaned the propshaft tunnel in preparation for repairs
and paint.  Here's how it looked on the under-side after degreasing
and the zinc phosphate treatment.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_075011.jpg

You can see in that photo that the metal is rusted through in places,
at the bend.  The damage is not so bad as to need replacement of the
part, as this is not a structural piece.  I will repair it with
fiberglass, bonded with POR15 rather than epoxy - maybe.  Still
haven't decided.  In any case, the part will be repaired, not
replaced.

Here's how the tunnel looks from the top side, with a coat of POR15 on
the metal.  Once cured, I'll paint the underside similarly.  Then,
I'll make repairs.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_091106.jpg

The transmission cover is in the queue behind the propshaft tunnel.
It has no damage other than surface rust.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_091127.jpg

The brass clamping block for the handbrake cables has been cleaned and
refinished as well but I forgot to take a picture.  It is, however, in
another picture referenced later.

While the POR15 and engine paint were drying, I removed the air
cleaner.  I cleaned and painted the wing nut and forgot to photograph
it too.  Here is the air cleaner cover/element with the paint
stripped.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_082022.jpg

The paint came off with nothing more violent than lacquer thinner and
ScotchBrite.  Here's that same piece with a fresh coat of black paint
over primer.  The higher gloss is because the paint is still wet.
Sorry for the soft focus.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_090126.jpg

I then moved on to the air cleaner body.  Here it is still on the
engine.  I was pleased to see the clean oil in the filter.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_082746.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_082742.jpg

And on the workbench while being stripped.  Again, crappy focus.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_083709.jpg

Here's that same part with a coat of primer.  Despite the can resting
in the rear of the picture, this part is sprayed with conventional
engine primer.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_091023.jpg

Also in that picture you can see the hand brake cable block.  I left
the front shiny brass just for fun.

Finally, here are the parts of the air cleaner with the paint drying.
The top/element is dry so you can see the proper sheen of the paint.
The paint on the body of the filter is still wet.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130519_091729.jpg

That's it for this morning.  I may not get back to the garage this
afternoon.  Other home duties call.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 20 08:58:14 2013
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From: Mike E <redscirocco@hotmail.com>
To: Gene <crownwheel@comcast.net>, 'Richard Lindsay'
	<richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 10:53:49 -0400
References: <CAOc+-dybAkQ3TS_Sp-50ZiiJK0ZSLisrZ7SSYrsg-6zyy-ZaQA@mail.gmail.com>,
	<014901ce5344$e695edb0$b3c1c910$@net>
	FILETIME=[D674A9E0:01CE5569]
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Resolution, was: Wheels seal?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

There are many and varying opinions on which tires to use, and whether to use
tubes or not.  The best solution might be to find bias ply tires that are
designed for tubes and that don't have a bead for modern wheels.   Good luck!

Otherwise, I don't see any improvement in putting a tube in a modern tire that
wasn't designed to have a tube.  The surface and sidewalls of a tire are
constantly flexing and releasing as they come in contact with the surface of
the road.  There is tremendous centrifugal force exerted on the outer portion
of the tire.  Tube tires have a different inner profile (smooth, round) than a
tube tire (not not smooth, not round, but flatish on the bottom and rounded on
the sides).  The idea of adding an air bladder that is unnecessary for
maintaining air pressure inside a tire that isn't designed to have a tube
wouldn't make me feel confident at all.

And what of the tire pressure?  Would you use the one recommended in the
manual that was originally intended for bias-ply tube tires?  That could be a
pretty bad idea since, again, the tire isn't shaped, designed, or constructed
like the original tube-type tire.  You'll need more, but how much more?   How
much more will you need to ensure that the tube isn't flopping around or
rubbing a rough spot in the tubeless tire?
I don't know that any insurance company is going to reject a claim because of
non-OEM-spec tires, but if they do, I don't think sticking a tube in a
tubeless, beaded tire on a tube-type wheel is going to gain you much traction
(pun intended) with the adjuster over a tubeless, beaded tire on a tube-type
wheel.

My TF has had modern tubeless radial tires on the stock steel wheels for at
least 30 years, and I've never had an unexplained air leak or any problem with
spirited driving.  I run them at about 25 PSI.
-Mike


> From: crownwheel@comcast.net
> To: richardolindsay@gmail.com; mg-t@autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 17:24:22 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Resolution, was: Wheels seal?
>
> A cautionary note. Looking at this in the loss-prevention line, I would not
> want to be involved in an accident as a result of having tubeless tyres on
a
> wheel designed for tube type tyres and having the insurance carrier refuse
> coverage.
> Gene
> Vermont
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Richard Lindsay
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 11:28 AM
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mg-t] Resolution, was: Wheels seal?
>
> Thanks everyone for the valued responses.
>
> My decision is to go for radial tires in 165R15 size, tubeless on media
> blasted, trued (as needed) and refinished wheels, using new stems.  If the
> metal is pitted in any way around the stem opening, I'll use metal bolt-in
> stems as they may seal better.  Again, thanks everyone.
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/crownwheel@comcast.net
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco@hotmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 20 10:49:27 2013
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To: "=?utf-8?B?TWlrZSBF?=" <redscirocco@hotmail.com>,"Gene"
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From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 11:45:59 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?Resolution=2C_was=3A_Wheels_seal=3F?=
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Just FYI, those two ridges around tubeless tire type wheels is to prevent sudden deflation of a tire when subjected to side loads.
It's a safety item.
Now, I know the list will be inundated with "I've been driving on tubeless tires since 1622 with no trouble, so that's baloney".
I've been flying airplanes since 1968, never had any accident or incident outside of a systems failure.
I still use those checklists.  A conservative mode of operation is the safest way.
Besides, just think how stupid you would feel as the wheel dug in and the car started to turn over!
Dying is one thing.  Dying stupid is another.
No dog in the hunt, so do as you will.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Mike E" <redscirocco@hotmail.com>
To: "Gene" <crownwheel@comcast.net>, "'Richard" <Lindsay'	<richardolindsay@gmail.com>, <>>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Resolution, was: Wheels seal?
Date: Mon, May 20, 2013 09:53


There are many and varying opinions on which tires to use, and whether to use
tubes or not.  The best solution might be to find bias ply tires that are
designed for tubes and that don't have a bead for modern wheels.   Good luck!

Otherwise, I don't see any improvement in putting a tube in a modern tire that
wasn't designed to have a tube.  The surface and sidewalls of a tire are
constantly flexing and releasing as they come in contact with the surface of
the road.  There is tremendous centrifugal force exerted on the outer portion
of the tire.  Tube tires have a different inner profile (smooth, round) than a
tube tire (not not smooth, not round, but flatish on the bottom and rounded on
the sides).  The idea of adding an air bladder that is unnecessary for
maintaining air pressure inside a tire that isn't designed to have a tube
wouldn't make me feel confident at all.

And what of the tire pressure?  Would you use the one recommended in the
manual that was originally intended for bias-ply tube tires?  That could be a
pretty bad idea since, again, the tire isn't shaped, designed, or constructed
like the original tube-type tire.  You'll need more, but how much more?   How
much more will you need to ensure that the tube isn't flopping around or
rubbing a rough spot in the tubeless tire?
I don't know that any insurance company is going to reject a claim because of
non-OEM-spec tires, but if they do, I don't think sticking a tube in a
tubeless, beaded tire on a tube-type wheel is going to gain you much traction
(pun intended) with the adjuster over a tubeless, beaded tire on a tube-type
wheel.

My TF has had modern tubeless radial tires on the stock steel wheels for at
least 30 years, and I've never had an unexplained air leak or any problem with
spirited driving.  I run them at about 25 PSI.
-Mike


> From: crownwheel@comcast.net
> To: richardolindsay@gmail.com; mg-t@autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 17:24:22 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Resolution, was: Wheels seal?
>
> A cautionary note. Looking at this in the loss-prevention line, I would not
> want to be involved in an accident as a result of having tubeless tyres on
a
> wheel designed for tube type tyres and having the insurance carrier refuse
> coverage.
> Gene
> Vermont
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Richard Lindsay
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 11:28 AM
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mg-t] Resolution, was: Wheels seal?
>
> Thanks everyone for the valued responses.
>
> My decision is to go for radial tires in 165R15 size, tubeless on media
> blasted, trued (as needed) and refinished wheels, using new stems.  If the
> metal is pitted in any way around the stem opening, I'll use metal bolt-in
> stems as they may seal better.  Again, thanks everyone.
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/crownwheel@comcast.net
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco@hotmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 20 14:07:51 2013
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 15:04:26 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Tunnel repair
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

This morning I applied the repair to the propshaft tunnel.  Here's how
it looks with the repair in place and curing.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130520_135726.jpg

The fiberglass cloth is being cemented in place with POR15.  This
product cures REALLY hard, yet it does not get overly brittle.  The
mounting lip will now be adequately strong and will not allow fumes
into the cockpit..well, at lease not through those rusty cracks.  The
glass fiber will be trimmed from the edges of the flange once the
product has cured and new mounting holes will be drilled.

A small can of POR15 has a very short pot life after opening; perhaps
two days, even tightly closed.  So to use up the whole can, I cleaned
and coated the outside of the transmission cover.  Here's how it looks
with the finish still wet.  There are no rusted through holes in this
part, probably thanks to the greasy environment of the 60-year-old
transmission.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130520_135715.jpg

Folks, I have no financial (or otherwise) connection with Restomotive,
the makers of MetalPrep and POR15, but I am a satisfied customer.
I've used the products for over a decade.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 22 04:59:41 2013
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 05:56:09 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] a couple of questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Morning Friends,

Please help me if you know the answer to these questions;

1) On a LHD late TD (1953) with the floor-mounted headlight dimmer
switch (which is actually mounted on the inside of the cowl), which
way are the three mounting bolts oriented - bolts inside with nuts in
the engine compartment, or visa-versa?  My car had the bolts in the
cockpit and the nuts under the bonnet - but we all know that 'the way
it is' is not always 'the way it was' in a 60-year-old car!

2) Same car.  There is an oblong cover on the transmission cover that
when removed, provides access to the gearbox dipstick and filler port.
 My car had this little steel cover covered with black carpet - and a
rather sloppy job of it.  When new, was this cover carpeted, covered
in Rexine or simply painted?

Thanks,

-rick, up early
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 22 05:48:04 2013
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From: "Gene" <crownwheel@comcast.net>
To: "'Richard Lindsay'" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>,
  <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOc+-dzVthGKhU5Hv-X=qh39HP6NgGJfO3hmDYuKYToh4h2T0w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 07:44:41 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] a couple of questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Good morning Rick ...

1) I just looked at Eliot, our 1953 unrestored TD and find that the nuts are
in the engine compartment. No lock washers are in evidence.
2) Eliot has some carpet material on that steel cover.

Cheers
Gene, 
Vermont

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Lindsay
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 6:56 AM
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] a couple of questions

Morning Friends,

Please help me if you know the answer to these questions;

1) On a LHD late TD (1953) with the floor-mounted headlight dimmer switch
(which is actually mounted on the inside of the cowl), which way are the
three mounting bolts oriented - bolts inside with nuts in the engine
compartment, or visa-versa?  My car had the bolts in the cockpit and the
nuts under the bonnet - but we all know that 'the way it is' is not always
'the way it was' in a 60-year-old car!

2) Same car.  There is an oblong cover on the transmission cover that when
removed, provides access to the gearbox dipstick and filler port.
 My car had this little steel cover covered with black carpet - and a rather
sloppy job of it.  When new, was this cover carpeted, covered in Rexine or
simply painted?

Thanks,

-rick, up early
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/crownwheel@comcast.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 22 06:16:15 2013
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	<006301ce56e1$bfa699c0$3ef3cd40$@net>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 07:12:44 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: Gene <crownwheel@comcast.net>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] a couple of questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

And Good morning to you Gene,

Thank you.

> Good morning Rick ...
>
> 1) I just looked at Eliot, our 1953 unrestored TD and find that the nuts are
> in the engine compartment. No lock washers are in evidence.

Thanks.  Here's my switch, tested good, refinished and ready for
re-installation.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_152039.jpg

When I removed the switch bracket I discovered that the holes are
dished in, the equivalent of countersunk.  See photo.  My bolts did
have lockwashers under the nuts but they were the tiny ones and almost
fit within the countersink.  Perhaps your car has them too, just
hidden?

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130511_175607.jpg

> 2) Eliot has some carpet material on that steel cover.

Very good.  Thanks.  I will cover my car's plate similarly.  I chose
an incorrect but pretty Honey Tan interior for my car, including the
carpet.  My TR3b has a black interior and living here in south Texas,
its like a dark oven all summer - which in Houston, is 8 months long!
:-P  Perhaps the light tan interior in the TD may be a little cooler,
or at least seem that way.

> Cheers
> Gene,
> Vermont

Best regards and again, thanks,

Rick, Houston
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 22 14:48:30 2013
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:43:13 GMT
To: richardolindsay@gmail.com
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] a couple of questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Rick,
   In mine, bolt heads were in the cockpit, nuts on outside of the footwell,
and the gearbox cover is carpeted with same material as the tunnel and
floorboards.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] a couple of questions
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 05:56:09 -0500

Morning Friends,

Please help me if you know the answer to these questions;

1) On a LHD late TD (1953) with the floor-mounted headlight dimmer
switch (which is actually mounted on the inside of the cowl), which
way are the three mounting bolts oriented - bolts inside with nuts in
the engine compartment, or visa-versa?  My car had the bolts in the
cockpit and the nuts under the bonnet - but we all know that 'the way
it is' is not always 'the way it was' in a 60-year-old car!

2) Same car.  There is an oblong cover on the transmission cover that
when removed, provides access to the gearbox dipstick and filler port.
 My car had this little steel cover covered with black carpet - and a
rather sloppy job of it.  When new, was this cover carpeted, covered
in Rexine or simply painted?

Thanks,

-rick, up early
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 22 17:12:58 2013
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:04:26 -0500
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] SU needle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

The needle in my TD H2 SU is stamped 158 which is a number I can't seem to
reference.  Does anyone recognize that number of needle?
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 16:11:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mg-t@autox.team.net"
	<mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] a couple of questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,

My idle-moment reading material of late has been "Original MG T Series"
by Anders Ditlev Clausager. I thought I remembered reading something about the
dipstick cover, and sure enough, on page 81, the book says:

"However, the
gearbox tunnel was now carpeted (over a steel pressing) and the exposed carpet
edges behind the gearlever, over the handbrake bracket, were bound in Rexine.
There was a small plug with carpet cover, giving access to the gearbox
dipstick."

So the official BMIHT historian says it should be carpeted.


I
did learn that my '51 TD is slightly unusual in its color scheme -- as
Clausager says:

"Some TDs finished in Almond Green had metallic paint on the
body and matching solid green paint on the wings and valances (as had been the
case with the pre-war Metallic Grey colour on the TA andf TB models)." -p.
100. That's the way mine is now, and now I have indication that it came from
Abingdon that way. (I'm pretty certain, for instance, that the white paint
under the fenders is NOT original... but it's kind of charming.)

Best,
--Scott Fisher
  Tualatin, OR



----- Original Message -----
From: Richard
Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
[...]
2) Same
car.  There is an oblong cover on the transmission cover that
when removed,
provides access to the gearbox dipstick and filler port.
My car had this
little steel cover covered with black carpet - and a
rather sloppy job of it. 
When new, was this cover carpeted, covered
in Rexine or simply painted?
Thanks,

-rick, up early
______________________________________________
Mg-t@autox.team.net
Suggested annual
donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/sfisher71@yahoo.com
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 16:20:28 -0700
From: Lawrie <lawrie@britcars.com>
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To: mg-t@autox.team.net
References: <512D0FD0-7DF1-4A4E-B8C0-C05C91F79AD3@duvallvideo.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] SU needle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

No. 158 is equivalent to SU's ES needle

Lawrie

> The needle in my TD H2 SU is stamped 158 which is a number I can't seem to
> reference.  Does anyone recognize that number of needle?
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Duvall Video Productions'" <mike@duvallvideo.com>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <512D0FD0-7DF1-4A4E-B8C0-C05C91F79AD3@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:41:03 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5XQXNY+xeHRVWXT/m9KBLLlqwwOQAA+QPw
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] SU needle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

My SU Tuning Guide, with full needle charts and specs, does not list that
number.  There is a "156" shank for the numbered needles, but you should
still be able to find another imprint on your needle.
Bill

 

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Duvall Video Productions
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 6:04 PM
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] SU needle

The needle in my TD H2 SU is stamped 158 which is a number I can't seem to
reference.  Does anyone recognize that number of needle?
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/wbeech@flash.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 09:33:38 2013
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:29:47 -0500
To: <wbeech@flash.net>,"'Duvall Video Productions'"
	<mike@duvallvideo.com>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>
From: Peter Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>
References: <512D0FD0-7DF1-4A4E-B8C0-C05C91F79AD3@duvallvideo.com>
	<8D26A6AD95F0482193B4324EA7B3D9A4@bboffice>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] SU needle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Attached is the catalog page from an old Beck/Arnley catalog who used 
a different numbering system for needles. This is the equivalency chart.
         I know attachments don't work on this list, but maybe one of 
the two to whom this is also addressed can post it somewhere useful?
         Peter C

At 06:41 PM 5/22/2013, wbeech@flash.net wrote:
>My SU Tuning Guide, with full needle charts and specs, does not list that
>number.  There is a "156" shank for the numbered needles, but you should
>still be able to find another imprint on your needle.
>Bill
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of Duvall Video Productions
>Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 6:04 PM
>To: mg-t@autox.team.net
>Subject: [Mg-t] SU needle
>
>The needle in my TD H2 SU is stamped 158 which is a number I can't seem to
>reference.  Does anyone recognize that number of needle?

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of BA-suCat.pdf]
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:44:04 -0500
References: <512D0FD0-7DF1-4A4E-B8C0-C05C91F79AD3@duvallvideo.com>
	<8D26A6AD95F0482193B4324EA7B3D9A4@bboffice>
	<20130523152959.C3DF7F441B2@mx2.netinteraction.com>
To: Peter Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] SU needle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you much Peter-  On this chart,  158 is listed as ES which is the
original so I have likely been on a wild goose chase....



On May 23, 2013, at 10:29 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote:

> Attached is the catalog page from an old Beck/Arnley catalog who used a
different numbering system for needles. This is the equivalency chart.
>        I know attachments don't work on this list, but maybe one of the two
to whom this is also addressed can post it somewhere useful?
>        Peter C
>
> At 06:41 PM 5/22/2013, wbeech@flash.net wrote:
>> My SU Tuning Guide, with full needle charts and specs, does not list that
>> number.  There is a "156" shank for the numbered needles, but you should
>> still be able to find another imprint on your needle.
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Duvall Video Productions
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 6:04 PM
>> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Mg-t] SU needle
>>
>> The needle in my TD H2 SU is stamped 158 which is a number I can't seem to
>> reference.  Does anyone recognize that number of needle?
> <BA-suCat.pdf>
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <512D0FD0-7DF1-4A4E-B8C0-C05C91F79AD3@duvallvideo.com>
	<8D26A6AD95F0482193B4324EA7B3D9A4@bboffice>
	<20130523152959.C3DF7F441B2@mx2.netinteraction.com>
	<735EC2F2-12EF-4033-9565-F55695871783@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:47:00 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] SU needle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Mike, et al.,

It seems to me that the T-Series cars are made out of 'wild geese' so
we are all in your shoes. :-P

-rick

On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 10:44 AM, Duvall Video Productions
<mike@duvallvideo.com> wrote:
> Thank you much Peter-  On this chart,  158 is listed as ES which is the
> original so I have likely been on a wild goose chase....
>
>
>
> On May 23, 2013, at 10:29 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote:
>
>> Attached is the catalog page from an old Beck/Arnley catalog who used a
> different numbering system for needles. This is the equivalency chart.
>>        I know attachments don't work on this list, but maybe one of the two
> to whom this is also addressed can post it somewhere useful?
>>        Peter C
>>
>> At 06:41 PM 5/22/2013, wbeech@flash.net wrote:
>>> My SU Tuning Guide, with full needle charts and specs, does not list that
>>> number.  There is a "156" shank for the numbered needles, but you should
>>> still be able to find another imprint on your needle.
>>> Bill
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
>>> Behalf Of Duvall Video Productions
>>> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 6:04 PM
>>> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
>>> Subject: [Mg-t] SU needle
>>>
>>> The needle in my TD H2 SU is stamped 158 which is a number I can't seem to
>>> reference.  Does anyone recognize that number of needle?
>> <BA-suCat.pdf>
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/richardolindsay@gmail.com
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Peter Caldwell'" <peter@nosimport.com>, "'Duvall Video
	Productions'" <mike@duvallvideo.com>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <512D0FD0-7DF1-4A4E-B8C0-C05C91F79AD3@duvallvideo.com>
	<8D26A6AD95F0482193B4324EA7B3D9A4@bboffice>
	<20130523152959.C3DF7F441B2@mx2.netinteraction.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 12:12:00 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5XynGGirdtg4QASkePCuwJ2URucAADbwvQ
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] SU needle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, I have attached it to the Links page on our club site:
http://www.bcbco.org/About-Us.html

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Caldwell [mailto:peter@nosimport.com] 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
To: wbeech@flash.net; 'Duvall Video Productions'; mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] SU needle

Attached is the catalog page from an old Beck/Arnley catalog who used a
different numbering system for needles. This is the equivalency chart.
         I know attachments don't work on this list, but maybe one of the
two to whom this is also addressed can post it somewhere useful?
         Peter C

At 06:41 PM 5/22/2013, wbeech@flash.net wrote:
>My SU Tuning Guide, with full needle charts and specs, does not list 
>that number.  There is a "156" shank for the numbered needles, but you 
>should still be able to find another imprint on your needle.
>Bill
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] 
>On Behalf Of Duvall Video Productions
>Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 6:04 PM
>To: mg-t@autox.team.net
>Subject: [Mg-t] SU needle
>
>The needle in my TD H2 SU is stamped 158 which is a number I can't seem 
>to reference.  Does anyone recognize that number of needle?
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 12:20:41 2013
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	<519D52BC.6020802@britcars.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 11:17:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Walton Smith <waltonps@yahoo.com>
To: Lawrie <lawrie@britcars.com>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] SU needle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Over the years I have found with certainty that when Mr. Alexander speaks;
it is prudent to listen.
Always affirming to see everyone's confirmation. 
Walt
1951 TD 
California
Walton Smith



>________________________________
>
From: Lawrie <lawrie@britcars.com>
>To: mg-t@autox.team.net 
>Sent: Wednesday,
May 22, 2013 4:20 PM
>Subject: Re: [Mg-t] SU needle
> 
>
>No. 158 is
equivalent to SU's ES needle
>
>Lawrie
>
>> The needle in my TD H2 SU is
stamped 158 which is a number I can't seem to
>> reference.  Does anyone
recognize that number of needle?
>>
______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>>
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lawrie@britcars.com
>______________________________________________
>
>Mg-t@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/waltonps@yahoo.com
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 13:39:37 2013
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	<1369336851.35866.YahooMailNeo@web164901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 14:35:59 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Mgs] Handbrake and bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Yea Dan.  Less than a dozen!  And that's for bolts only!  And if one
wishes to make the restoration totally correct, that would be the way
to go.  Its also the way to invest more in the restoration than the
final result is worth!

BTW, here's a look at the handbrake after refinishing.  A new one is
not available (from Moss) so some day, I may have this one re-chromed.
 Until then...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130523_142433.jpg

-rick

On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 2:20 PM, Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 'Gasping' at $35 for nuts n bolts!!
>
> Dan D
> '76B
> '65B
> Central NJ USA
>
> ________________________________
> From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net; "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:06 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Handbrake and bolts
>
> Hi Friends,
>
> This morning I assembled all the parts of the handbrake assembly
> (those bits found in the the cockpit only).  The 'arm' of the
> handbrake's chrome was beyond saving so I decided to either have it
> re-chromed or replaced at some later date.  Yesterday I sanded the
> chrome to rough it up a bit, then applied a high-build primer and
> black paint.  Gasp!  Well, for now, it will work and will look okay -
> just not correct.  The push button's chrome was fine and left
> polished.  The handle/grip got a coat of matte black paint.  The
> adjusters are brass and are now nicely polished and clear-coated,
> while the rest of the metal bits are painted semi-gloss black,
> including the assembly-to-tunnel attachment bolts.
>
> All of the rusty floorboard screws - including the ones whose heads
> were drilled off - have now been removed from the captive nuts on the
> angle-iron; those parts which supports the inboard edges of the
> floorboards and propshaft tunnel.  I did a test using another of the
> 1/4" captive nuts found elsewhere.  I ran a 1/4-20 tap through the nut
> and fitted a 1/4-20 bolt.  It fit nicely and was strong.  My
> floorboards will be attached with 1/4-20 countersunk Phillips head
> screws for $1.50, not $35.00 'correct' screws!  You have my full
> permission to gasp again, as desired. :-)
>
> -rick
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase@yahoo.com
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 19:09:54 2013
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 21:02:02 -0400
From: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@comcast.net>
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To: wbeech@flash.net, 'Peter Caldwell' <peter@nosimport.com>, 
	mg-t@autox.team.net
References: <512D0FD0-7DF1-4A4E-B8C0-C05C91F79AD3@duvallvideo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] SU needle
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

And, it's at http://www.ttalk.info/BA-SU.html.

Bud
wbeech@flash.net wrote:
> OK, I have attached it to the Links page on our club site:
> http://www.bcbco.org/About-Us.html
>
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Caldwell [mailto:peter@nosimport.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
> To: wbeech@flash.net; 'Duvall Video Productions'; mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] SU needle
>
> Attached is the catalog page from an old Beck/Arnley catalog who used a
> different numbering system for needles. This is the equivalency chart.
>           I know attachments don't work on this list, but maybe one of the
> two to whom this is also addressed can post it somewhere useful?
>           Peter C
>
> At 06:41 PM 5/22/2013, wbeech@flash.net wrote:
>> My SU Tuning Guide, with full needle charts and specs, does not list
>> that number.  There is a "156" shank for the numbered needles, but you
>> should still be able to find another imprint on your needle.
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Duvall Video Productions
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 6:04 PM
>> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Mg-t] SU needle
>>
>> The needle in my TD H2 SU is stamped 158 which is a number I can't seem
>> to reference.  Does anyone recognize that number of needle?
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/budkrueger@comcast.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 24 23:08:16 2013
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 23:03:51 -0600
From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition puzzle on a TF 1500
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

     Ran into an interesting IQ test today. After a full engine rebuild 
(ran fine on the test rack and in the car) and some transmission work, 
we took the car out on a test drive down the street today. In mid run 
the car died as if you'd turned the key off. I went through the entire 
ignition system and found nothing wrong. But no spark out of the coil or 
a replacement coil, condenser seemed fine, no continuity to ground with 
the points open, and the distro checked out fine on the Sun tester.

Then I noticed a black spot on the back side of the points spring where 
it comes closest to the distributor body right next to the terminal 
screw. It seems it had been arcing to ground between the spring and the 
diz body. I cleaned it off, massaged a flatter curve into the spring and 
added a flat washer between the leather insulator and the end of the 
spring to try to increase the distance between the apex of the spring 
curve and the diz body. Plugged everything back into the car and it runs 
fine again.I could probably relieve the slot in the end of the spring 
that goes under the terminal screw but I'd rather not at this point. I 
want to keep it regularly serviceable without special notes if possible.

Anybody else run across this happening? If so how did you deal with it?

Glenn
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 12:51:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: S Allen <s4usea@yahoo.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net, Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Ignition puzzle on a TF 1500
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I know you probably don't want to hear this, but I put a Petronix unit in my
dizzy fifteen years ago, and said good-bye to points forever.



--- On Sat, 5/25/13, Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net> wrote:

From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition puzzle on a TF 1500
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, May 25, 2013, 1:03 AM

    Ran into an interesting IQ test today. After a full engine rebuild (ran
fine on the test rack and in the car) and some transmission work, we took the
car out on a test drive down the street today. In mid run the car died as if
you'd turned the key off. I went through the entire ignition system and found
nothing wrong. But no spark out of the coil or a replacement coil, condenser
seemed fine, no continuity to ground with the points open, and the distro
checked out fine on the Sun tester.

Then I noticed a black spot on the back side of the points spring where it
comes closest to the distributor body right next to the terminal screw. It
seems it had been arcing to ground between the spring and the diz body. I
cleaned it off, massaged a flatter curve into the spring and added a flat
washer between the leather insulator and the end of the spring to try to
increase the distance between the apex of the spring curve and the diz body.
Plugged everything back into the car and it runs fine again.I could probably
relieve the slot in the end of the spring that goes under the terminal screw
but I'd rather not at this point. I want to keep it regularly serviceable
without special notes if possible.

Anybody else run across this happening? If so how did you deal with it?

Glenn
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/s4usea@yahoo.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 14:45:36 2013
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 15:39:56 -0500
References: <mailman.15.1369504803.3277.mg-t@autox.team.net>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net, g.schnittke@comcast.net
Subject: [Mg-t]  Ignition puzzle on a TF 1500
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I would first replace the condenser.... a continuity test doesn't tell you if
it is storing energy.

On May 25, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 23:03:51 -0600
> From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mg-t] Ignition puzzle on a TF 1500
> Message-ID: <51A04637.3050202@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>     Ran into an interesting IQ test today. After a full engine rebuild
> (ran fine on the test rack and in the car) and some transmission work,
> we took the car out on a test drive down the street today. In mid run
> the car died as if you'd turned the key off. I went through the entire
> ignition system and found nothing wrong. But no spark out of the coil or
> a replacement coil, condenser seemed fine, no continuity to ground with
> the points open, and the distro checked out fine on the Sun tester.
>
> Then I noticed a black spot on the back side of the points spring where
> it comes closest to the distributor body right next to the terminal
> screw. It seems it had been arcing to ground between the spring and the
> diz body. I cleaned it off, massaged a flatter curve into the spring and
> added a flat washer between the leather insulator and the end of the
> spring to try to increase the distance between the apex of the spring
> curve and the diz body. Plugged everything back into the car and it runs
> fine again.I could probably relieve the slot in the end of the spring
> that goes under the terminal screw but I'd rather not at this point. I
> want to keep it regularly serviceable without special notes if possible.
>
> Anybody else run across this happening? If so how did you deal with it?
>
> Glenn
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 15:01:09 2013
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Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 14:52:32 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:20.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/20.0 SeaMonkey/2.17.1
To: MG <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] A bit behind...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Finally getting around to sending out some Thank You notes to folks who 
donated
during the Team.Net spring fund drive.  Only about a month and a half 
behind.
I guess it is a good way to spend Decoration Day weekend.

mjb.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 26 08:54:23 2013
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Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 09:44:12 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Tub lift comments and request for your thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

We all know that the TD's tub doesn't weigh much but the 60-year-old
unit also not a rigid structure.  And my tub requires a couple of
timber replacements.  I'm at the point of lifting the tub and I'd like
to share an idea.

My car's tub timbers still need some repairs so the tub is not as
strong as a healthy unit.  Instead of lifting with ropes around the
tub, I believe that I will fit angle iron strips below the inner four
mount points, lifting the tub gently and just enough to fit the angle
iron under the metal body structure.  I can then bolt the tub to the
angle iron and lift the tub from four ropes attached to the angle
iron.  Doing so should avoid flexing the tub unnecessarily.  Perhaps
I'll also place a stiffener across each door opening, near the top,
just to avoid undue flex on the sills. I have a hoist in the garage so
I can lift the tub easily and safely after all that.

I encourage and appreciate any comments that you might have to offer.  Thanks.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 26 09:08:17 2013
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Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 09:55:06 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] OT Rant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

What the #e!! was NBC thinking?!  They time delayed the Monaco F1
Grand Prix then ran the POST RACE SHOW before the race, spoiling it!
The local NBC channel here in Houston (or someone, network?) also
edited the race coverage to fit their time slot.  If their goal was to
alienate the F1 fans, they certainly succeeded!  And why was it
delayed?  To air a FISHING show!  What a bunch of losers.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] OT Rant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

it was a great race though! 


"Life's tough....It's even tougher if you're stupid." 
-John Wayne 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Lindsay" <richardolindsay@gmail.com> 
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 9:55:06 AM 
Subject: [Mg-t] OT Rant 

What the #e!! was NBC thinking?! They time delayed the Monaco F1 
Grand Prix then ran the POST RACE SHOW before the race, spoiling it! 
The local NBC channel here in Houston (or someone, network?) also 
edited the race coverage to fit their time slot. If their goal was to 
alienate the F1 fans, they certainly succeeded! And why was it 
delayed? To air a FISHING show! What a bunch of losers. 

-rick 
______________________________________________ 

Mg-t@autox.team.net 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 26 12:58:38 2013
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 13:54:44 -0500
References: <mailman.13.1369591202.2518.mg-t@autox.team.net>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Tub lift comments and request for your thoughts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Get your tub all lined up accurately first.  Put cross braces all over it;
essentially build a cage within it.  The various pieces of the tub provide
support, if you start taking it apart, it will be tough to get it lined up
again.   A lot of it depends on how bad your tub is....

It is really easier to do the major work sitting on the frame then pull it off
to do the frame once the tub is done.





>
>
>
> We all know that the TD's tub doesn't weigh much but the 60-year-old
> unit also not a rigid structure.  And my tub requires a couple of
> timber replacements.  I'm at the point of lifting the tub and I'd like
> to share an idea.
>
> My car's tub timbers still need some repairs so the tub is not as
> strong as a healthy unit.  Instead of lifting with ropes around the
> tub, I believe that I will fit angle iron strips below the inner four
> mount points, lifting the tub gently and just enough to fit the angle
> iron under the metal body structure.  I can then bolt the tub to the
> angle iron and lift the tub from four ropes attached to the angle
> iron.  Doing so should avoid flexing the tub unnecessarily.  Perhaps
> I'll also place a stiffener across each door opening, near the top,
> just to avoid undue flex on the sills. I have a hoist in the garage so
> I can lift the tub easily and safely after all that.
>
> I encourage and appreciate any comments that you might have to offer.
Thanks.
>
> -rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 26 19:51:18 2013
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Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 19:45:59 -0600
From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 71
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At least you got to  see the entire race. In ENGLISH. Our satellite pack 
doesn't include NBC sports so I'm forced to watch the races on 
Univision. I don't speak or understand Spanish and I'm not about to try. 
I had the blasted recorder set to record "until the end of event" and it 
cut off just after the rear-ender going into the chicane. I had to read 
the rest of the race on the F1.com page where it's not easy to find 
actual race results and standings. Am I wrong in assuming that Kimi 
finished fifth? And didn't lose out in the points standings?

Glenn

On 5/26/2013 12:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> From: Richard Lindsay<richardolindsay@gmail.com>
> To:"mgs@autox.team.net List"  <mgs@autox.team.net>,
> 	mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mg-t] OT Rant
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAOc+-dwPjRzzB=XjFFhAcYDVKVJBQ44pZAJfqR=XwDVcdcBWsQ@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> What the #e!! was NBC thinking?!  They time delayed the Monaco F1
> Grand Prix then ran the POST RACE SHOW before the race, spoiling it!
> The local NBC channel here in Houston (or someone, network?) also
> edited the race coverage to fit their time slot.  If their goal was to
> alienate the F1 fans, they certainly succeeded!  And why was it
> delayed?  To air a FISHING show!  What a bunch of losers.
>
> -rick
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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True, but it will tell you if it has shorted. I was in the process of 
replacing it when I discovered the carbon on the spring.

Again , anyone ever had a points spring short to ground? And if so, what 
was your fix?



Glenn


On 5/26/2013 12:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 15:39:56 -0500
> From: Duvall Video Productions<mike@duvallvideo.com>
> To:mg-t@autox.team.net,g.schnittke@comcast.net
> Subject: [Mg-t]  Ignition puzzle on a TF 1500
> Message-ID:<538F3515-438F-44BC-9707-6CBBC989933E@duvallvideo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> I would first replace the condenser.... a continuity test doesn't tell you if
> it is storing energy.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 26 20:36:07 2013
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Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 22:23:21 -0400
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 71
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Glenn,

I can't say that I have ever had that happen, but it could have 
something to do with the not quite right points sets that we can get 
nowadays.  I've heard of a lot of various problems with points, and 
rotors because what was once on every car is now on so few.  The 
companies that used to make that stuff no longer do, so they are being 
made in places like the far east where things may not be made exactly to 
spec.

Couldn't you just wrap some electrical tape around it a couple times at 
the location where it shorted.  Of maybe glue a piece of thin insulating 
material to the distributor body at that point.

Good luck with it.

Charlie


On 5/26/2013 9:59 PM, Glenn Schnittke wrote:
> True, but it will tell you if it has shorted. I was in the process of 
> replacing it when I discovered the carbon on the spring.
>
> Again , anyone ever had a points spring short to ground? And if so, 
> what was your fix?
>
>
>
> Glenn
>
>
> On 5/26/2013 12:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 15:39:56 -0500
>> From: Duvall Video Productions<mike@duvallvideo.com>
>> To:mg-t@autox.team.net,g.schnittke@comcast.net
>> Subject: [Mg-t]  Ignition puzzle on a TF 1500
>> Message-ID:<538F3515-438F-44BC-9707-6CBBC989933E@duvallvideo.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>>
>> I would first replace the condenser.... a continuity test doesn't 
>> tell you if
>> it is storing energy.
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 21:06:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Now that I'm back in the loving arms of the Sacred Octagon, I need something
more than the metric wrenches and sockets that have stood me in good stead
with the cars I've been working on since my last MGB went to its new owner
some 15 years ago.

I seem to recall that most of the work I did on the MGB
required 7/16", 1/2", and 9/16" wrenches, with a few odds and ends larger and
smaller. So of course, I'm planning to buy two each of those, in combination
and gear wrenches, as well as an assortment of sockets. 


But then there's
the Whitworth question. I never required Whitworth wrenches for the B or
Midget, but I'm wondering how much of the TD's hardware is held on with
something the SAE stuff won't fit. 

Moss sells a couple of Whitworth tool
packages. Have any of you purchased them, and how critical/useful have they
been? Or was the TD's connection with the "modern" Y-type chassis enough to
make the Whitworth tools a historical oddity? I really don't know.

Would love
any and all advice, including a Whitworth to SAE (or metric) conversion chart
on line -- c'mon, there HAS to be one, right?

Best,

--Scott Fisher
  1951 TD
  Tualatin, Oregon
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	UTC
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 23:59:27 -0500
From: Charles Hill <chillmog@sbcglobal.net>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
References: <1369627615.81143.YahooMailNeo@web121905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Scott,
You are in for quite an education.

Almost everything on the TD should be British Standard Fine (BSF).  A 
lot of people call them Whitworth but Whitworth is a coarse thread while 
BSF is of course a fine thread.  The use the same set of wrenches but 
usually the BSF wrench is one size smaller than the Whitworth for the 
corresponding size bolt.  For example, a 1/4 Whitworth and a 5/16 BSF 
use the same size wrench as the wrenches are marked according to the 
size of the bolt, not the size of the bolt head.  To confuse you even 
more, the XPAG engine in the TD is a metric engine.  All the fasteners 
are metric - mostly 8 or 10mm but the heads are machined to fit British 
wrenches.

Here is the chart you are looking for: 
http://www.britishfasteners.com/images/nuts_bolts_key.pdf

British Fasteners also has a good selection of British tools and 
fasteners at reasonable prices and very good service.

Charles Hill

    On 5/26/2013 11:06 PM, Scott Fisher wrote:
> Now that I'm back in the loving arms of the Sacred Octagon, I need something
> more than the metric wrenches and sockets that have stood me in good stead
> with the cars I've been working on since my last MGB went to its new owner
> some 15 years ago.
>
> I seem to recall that most of the work I did on the MGB
> required 7/16", 1/2", and 9/16" wrenches, with a few odds and ends larger and
> smaller. So of course, I'm planning to buy two each of those, in combination
> and gear wrenches, as well as an assortment of sockets.
>
>
> But then there's
> the Whitworth question. I never required Whitworth wrenches for the B or
> Midget, but I'm wondering how much of the TD's hardware is held on with
> something the SAE stuff won't fit.
>
> Moss sells a couple of Whitworth tool
> packages. Have any of you purchased them, and how critical/useful have they
> been? Or was the TD's connection with the "modern" Y-type chassis enough to
> make the Whitworth tools a historical oddity? I really don't know.
>
> Would love
> any and all advice, including a Whitworth to SAE (or metric) conversion chart
> on line -- c'mon, there HAS to be one, right?
>
> Best,
>
> --Scott Fisher
>    1951 TD
>    Tualatin, Oregon
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 27 06:01:47 2013
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 11:51:29 GMT
To: sfisher71@yahoo.com
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
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Scott,
   To add to Charles Hill's notes:
    Don't try to use a mix of US and Metric wrenches. Yes, it can be done, but
the mess made of nuts and bolts will not offset the cost of the few wrenches
needed. A basic set of Whitworth 3/8 dive sockets and combination wrenches
will handle almost anything in the car except instruments and some electrical
component internals, which are BA.
   If your wheel nuts have a notch at the corner of each flat, they are
Unified size, which fits US wrenches, but earlier cars had Whitworth sizes.
   Last time I saw their catalogue, British Tool had a moderately priced line
of tools, Everest brand. King Dick brand is their premium line and is priced
like Snap On.  TD fasteners don't seem to be as strong as US grade 5, so avoid
yanking and cranking on them as might be done with newer fasteners.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 21:06:55 -0700 (PDT)

Now that I'm back in the loving arms of the Sacred Octagon, I need something
more than the metric wrenches and sockets that have stood me in good stead
with the cars I've been working on since my last MGB went to its new owner
some 15 years ago.

I seem to recall that most of the work I did on the MGB
required 7/16", 1/2", and 9/16" wrenches, with a few odds and ends larger and
smaller. So of course, I'm planning to buy two each of those, in combination
and gear wrenches, as well as an assortment of sockets.


But then there's
the Whitworth question. I never required Whitworth wrenches for the B or
Midget, but I'm wondering how much of the TD's hardware is held on with
something the SAE stuff won't fit.

Moss sells a couple of Whitworth tool
packages. Have any of you purchased them, and how critical/useful have they
been? Or was the TD's connection with the "modern" Y-type chassis enough to
make the Whitworth tools a historical oddity? I really don't know.

Would love
any and all advice, including a Whitworth to SAE (or metric) conversion chart
on line -- c'mon, there HAS to be one, right?

Best,

--Scott Fisher
  1951 TD
  Tualatin, Oregon
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 27 12:41:14 2013
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 13:37:14 -0500
References: <mailman.19.1369677604.9667.mg-t@autox.team.net>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 72
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, when you capacitor is bad.... 

On May 27, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 19:59:22 -0600
> From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 71
> Message-ID: <51A2BDFA.1020100@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> True, but it will tell you if it has shorted. I was in the process of 
> replacing it when I discovered the carbon on the spring.
> 
> Again , anyone ever had a points spring short to ground? And if so, what 
> was your fix?
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 27 16:11:07 2013
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 17:02:47 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Just some tub-off pictures
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi again Friends,

I haven't done any more spanner-twisting today, but I have taken a
large number of pictures, just to document the as-found condition.
Here are those pictures, should you find yourself interested in
below-the-tub goodies.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1295.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1296.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1297.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1298.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1299.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1300.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1301.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1302.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1303.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1304.JPG

And before you look at the next picture, I must state a disclaimer:  I
do NOT usually wear black socks with shorts!  Actually, my long pant
legs are rolled up because I fell this morning and scraped up my knees
on the concrete sidewalk.  My heart is healthier but my knees are
buggered.  They're coated in Neosporin, even as I type...  Okay, now
you can look at the picture. :-)

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1305.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1306.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1307.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1308.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1309.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1310.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1311.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1312.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1313.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1314.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1315.JPG

Regards,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 27 18:59:30 2013
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 18:51:58 -0600
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To: MG <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <F57471DD6E3441CD81E77034784E4972@hpd530>
Subject: [Mg-t] Fwd: [Fot] Whitworth wrenches
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Gee, a timely post from another list.

mjb.



-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	[Fot] Whitworth wrenches
Date: 	Mon, 27 May 2013 20:46:19 -0400
From: 	Bill Tobin <william.tobin31@verizon.net>
To: 	



Hi All, someone inquired a while ago about my  Whitworth wrenches.
I finally found them, right where I left them. 'Cept I'd forgotten where I
left them!
Most are Blue Point, Snap-on's brand. A few King Dick. Some box, some open.
If any interest, let me know and I'll send you a list.
Thanks, Bill
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 10:49:31 2013
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From: "Gable, Gerry" <GABLEG@ecu.edu>
To: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>, "sfisher71@yahoo.com"
	<sfisher71@yahoo.com>
Thread-Topic: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
Thread-Index: AQHOWtCGE9kCkygCEkCbg/vjSW8wypkazktQ
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 16:40:36 +0000
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Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Please correct me in I am wrong, but my recollection is that the engine is a
tractor engine out of France and therefor is metric.
Thanks
Gerry

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of mgbob@juno.com
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 7:51 AM
To: sfisher71@yahoo.com
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?

Scott,
   To add to Charles Hill's notes:
    Don't try to use a mix of US and Metric wrenches. Yes, it can be done, but
the mess made of nuts and bolts will not offset the cost of the few wrenches
needed. A basic set of Whitworth 3/8 dive sockets and combination wrenches
will handle almost anything in the car except instruments and some electrical
component internals, which are BA.
   If your wheel nuts have a notch at the corner of each flat, they are
Unified size, which fits US wrenches, but earlier cars had Whitworth sizes.
   Last time I saw their catalogue, British Tool had a moderately priced line
of tools, Everest brand. King Dick brand is their premium line and is priced
like Snap On.  TD fasteners don't seem to be as strong as US grade 5, so avoid
yanking and cranking on them as might be done with newer fasteners.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 21:06:55 -0700 (PDT)

Now that I'm back in the loving arms of the Sacred Octagon, I need something
more than the metric wrenches and sockets that have stood me in good stead
with the cars I've been working on since my last MGB went to its new owner
some 15 years ago.

I seem to recall that most of the work I did on the MGB required 7/16", 1/2",
and 9/16" wrenches, with a few odds and ends larger and smaller. So of course,
I'm planning to buy two each of those, in combination and gear wrenches, as
well as an assortment of sockets.


But then there's
the Whitworth question. I never required Whitworth wrenches for the B or
Midget, but I'm wondering how much of the TD's hardware is held on with
something the SAE stuff won't fit.

Moss sells a couple of Whitworth tool
packages. Have any of you purchased them, and how critical/useful have they
been? Or was the TD's connection with the "modern" Y-type chassis enough to
make the Whitworth tools a historical oddity? I really don't know.

Would love
any and all advice, including a Whitworth to SAE (or metric) conversion chart
on line -- c'mon, there HAS to be one, right?

Best,

--Scott Fisher
  1951 TD
  Tualatin, Oregon
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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	<F0552312647DC949AC4CC9399848964DCAEDBA18@Moe.intra.ecu.edu>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 10:00:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com>
To: "Gable, Gerry" <GABLEG@ecu.edu>, "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Gerry - let's see if I've internalized it yet: the threads in the XPAG/XPEG
are in fact metric (the engine being of Hotchkiss design from France, though I
thought the tractor slur was reserved for Triumphs :-), but the flats on the
bolt and nut faces were remachined to use wrenches measured in good old
inches. So for cleaning out the threads in an engine rebuild I will want to
keep my metric tap-and-die set, but I can't, for example, throw my 11mm gear
wrench over a nut or bolt on the block to take it out.

So far, the only tools
I've needed to use on the car are my spark plug wrench and a screwdriver --
and that just to pop the springs on the distributor cap when I installed the
new cap, rotor, plugs and wires. But sooner or later I'll be taking things off
to clean them up, and actually, Bob's comment about the wheel nuts is very
timely as I need to adjust the brakes soon. The car stops well but with a
longish pedal travel, and the LF wheel locks up early. Getting the brakes
adjusted will make the car a lot more pleasant to drive.

Thanks, all!
--Scott




----- Original Message -----
From: "Gable, Gerry" <GABLEG@ecu.edu>
To: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>; "sfisher71@yahoo.com"
<sfisher71@yahoo.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 28, 2013 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?

Please
correct me in I am wrong, but my recollection is that the engine is a tractor
engine out of France and therefor is metric.
Thanks
Gerry

-----Original
Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mgbob@juno.com
Sent: Monday,
May 27, 2013 7:51 AM
To: sfisher71@yahoo.com
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject:
Re: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?

Scott,
   To add to Charles Hill's notes:
   
Don't try to use a mix of US and Metric wrenches. Yes, it can be done, but the
mess made of nuts and bolts will not offset the cost of the few wrenches
needed. A basic set of Whitworth 3/8 dive sockets and combination wrenches
will handle almost anything in the car except instruments and some electrical
component internals, which are BA.
   If your wheel nuts have a notch at the
corner of each flat, they are Unified size, which fits US wrenches, but
earlier cars had Whitworth sizes.
   Last time I saw their catalogue, British
Tool had a moderately priced line of tools, Everest brand. King Dick brand is
their premium line and is priced like Snap On.  TD fasteners don't seem to be
as strong as US grade 5, so avoid yanking and cranking on them as might be
done with newer fasteners.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From:
Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net"
<mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
Date: Sun, 26 May
2013 21:06:55 -0700 (PDT)

Now that I'm back in the loving arms of the Sacred
Octagon, I need something more than the metric wrenches and sockets that have
stood me in good stead with the cars I've been working on since my last MGB
went to its new owner some 15 years ago.

I seem to recall that most of the
work I did on the MGB required 7/16", 1/2", and 9/16" wrenches, with a few
odds and ends larger and smaller. So of course, I'm planning to buy two each
of those, in combination and gear wrenches, as well as an assortment of
sockets.


But then there's
the Whitworth question. I never required Whitworth
wrenches for the B or Midget, but I'm wondering how much of the TD's hardware
is held on with something the SAE stuff won't fit.

Moss sells a couple of
Whitworth tool
packages. Have any of you purchased them, and how
critical/useful have they been? Or was the TD's connection with the "modern"
Y-type chassis enough to make the Whitworth tools a historical oddity? I
really don't know.

Would love
any and all advice, including a Whitworth to
SAE (or metric) conversion chart on line -- c'mon, there HAS to be one, right?
Best,

--Scott Fisher
  1951 TD
  Tualatin, Oregon
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Donate:
Archive:
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Donate:
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______________________________________________

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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 11:05:08 2013
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 5/28/2013 11:40 AM, Gable, Gerry wrote:
>   therefor is metric.  >>

HeeHee, but with a TWIST (NO pun intended <G>) Gerry.

Some is "French Metric" ! !

Lawrie, Kelvin, Bud, mgbob, Gene G., and I KNOW I am missing some others
that KNOW --- youse guys may NOT pipe-up <VBG> ! ! !

Rest are free to guess the "Some..." ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:                    www.justbrits.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 11:10:14 2013
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 17:04:41 GMT
To: GABLEG@ecu.edu
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

  No, not a tractor engine at all. When developed, it was thought quite modern
and efficient, though it still had the long stroke/bore relationship that
resulted from the formula for calculating taxable horsepower. 10.97, if
someone asks you.
   Mr Morris bought, after the War, a factory set up by a French manufacturer
in the UK, when it was feared that his factories would be overrun by the
Huns.
   It would be interesting to have a cost accountant work out if using the
French tooling resulted in savings over the years.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Gable, Gerry" <GABLEG@ecu.edu>
To: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>, "sfisher71@yahoo.com"
<sfisher71@yahoo.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 16:40:36 +0000

Please correct me in I am wrong, but my recollection is that the engine is a
tractor engine out of France and therefor is metric.
Thanks
Gerry

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of mgbob@juno.com
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 7:51 AM
To: sfisher71@yahoo.com
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?

Scott,
   To add to Charles Hill's notes:
    Don't try to use a mix of US and Metric wrenches. Yes, it can be done, but
the mess made of nuts and bolts will not offset the cost of the few wrenches
needed. A basic set of Whitworth 3/8 dive sockets and combination wrenches
will handle almost anything in the car except instruments and some electrical
component internals, which are BA.
   If your wheel nuts have a notch at the corner of each flat, they are
Unified size, which fits US wrenches, but earlier cars had Whitworth sizes.
   Last time I saw their catalogue, British Tool had a moderately priced line
of tools, Everest brand. King Dick brand is their premium line and is priced
like Snap On.  TD fasteners don't seem to be as strong as US grade 5, so avoid
yanking and cranking on them as might be done with newer fasteners.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] What's a Whit worth?
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 21:06:55 -0700 (PDT)

Now that I'm back in the loving arms of the Sacred Octagon, I need something
more than the metric wrenches and sockets that have stood me in good stead
with the cars I've been working on since my last MGB went to its new owner
some 15 years ago.

I seem to recall that most of the work I did on the MGB required 7/16", 1/2",
and 9/16" wrenches, with a few odds and ends larger and smaller. So of course,
I'm planning to buy two each of those, in combination and gear wrenches, as
well as an assortment of sockets.


But then there's
the Whitworth question. I never required Whitworth wrenches for the B or
Midget, but I'm wondering how much of the TD's hardware is held on with
something the SAE stuff won't fit.

Moss sells a couple of Whitworth tool
packages. Have any of you purchased them, and how critical/useful have they
been? Or was the TD's connection with the "modern" Y-type chassis enough to
make the Whitworth tools a historical oddity? I really don't know.

Would love
any and all advice, including a Whitworth to SAE (or metric) conversion chart
on line -- c'mon, there HAS to be one, right?

Best,

--Scott Fisher
  1951 TD
  Tualatin, Oregon
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 10:27:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Fisher <sfisher71@yahoo.com>
To: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Brake adjustment (was Re:  What's a Whit worth?)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

*Blink blink*... Really? Excellent! I was remembering adjusting the rear drums
on my MGB, which involved spinning the drum, tightening the adjuster till it
wouldn't turn, and THEN backing off one click. This is great news! I can do
that today! Now if only we have a break in the thunderstorms, I won't also
have to suss out putting the top up while standing out in the rain
somewhere... :-)


Thanks!

--Scott



----- Original Message -----
From:
"mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
To: sfisher71@yahoo.com
Cc: GABLEG@ecu.edu;
mg-t@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t]
What's a Whit worth?


Hi Scott,
   Provision for adjustment of brakes was
cleverly thought out, so that it requires only a flat screwdriver. It's not
even necessary to jack the car.
   Under the hubcap is a hole in the wheel.
This should be set over the corresponding hole in the brake drum. The holes
are moved over the adjusting snail, the screwdriver turned clockwise until the
adjuster stops, then rotated back one click.
   A flashlight is handy to peer
into the hole. Handbook calls for one click back. I have found that two clicks
ensures free rotation of the drum, and the pedal is quite high enough.
Bob
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 10:29:28 -0700
From: Dave and Liz DuBois <ddubois@sinclair.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
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To: mg-t@autox.team.net
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8626,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-05-28_08:2013-05-28,2013-05-28,1970-01-01
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Subject: [Mg-t] History of the XPAG engine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

As Bob stated, not a tractor engine at all.  Below is an article written 
by Jerry Felper, tracing the origin of the engine right back to the good 
old USA!

THE ORIGIN OF THE XPAG ENGINE

Jerry Felper

Did you ever wonder why the threads on a XPAG and XPEG engines are 
French Metric or where this great engine came from.Well here is the 
whole story.

It all started in Connecticut in 1826 with the birth of Benjamin Berkely 
Hotchkiss.Benjamin served an apprenticeship as a machinist and worked in 
the Sharps Rifle Factory.He participated in the development of the early 
Colt Revolver.

In the mid 1850, he and his older brother returned to the family 
business, where the two spent their spare time experimenting with cannon 
shells.Hotchkiss projectiles were especially lethal and after proving 
themselves in the Mexican War, small orders came from the U.S. 
government and Japan.With the advent of the Civil War, their new 
enterprise grew into a giant.By 1865 they were filthy rich.

Their problem was that peace kept breaking out, so Benjamin traveled to 
Europe in search of additional markets. Here he met Napoleon III. 
Emperor of France, who sensing a threat from the East persuaded him to 
set up an armament factory in France, this was 1867.It was located in 
St. Denis, also home of the famous boiler and steam engine builder 
Delaunay-Belleville.

France was soundly trounced in the Franco Prussian War and it was not 
until 1872 that the new Hotchkiss gas-operated automatic "rapid- firing" 
gun, the first modern machine gun, was adopted by Chile, China, Britain, 
Russia and the USA.By this time there were five Hotchkiss factories 
operating in Europe.

When peace broke out again, Hotchkiss found themselves with too much 
production floor space and not enough production.By this time Benjamin 
died and there were a number of creative Presidents of Hotchkiss.In 
1898, President Mr. Parsons figured that any company that could turn out 
precision gun parts could just as well turn out parts for the new auto 
industry.By the turn of the century, the slack on armaments had been 
taken up by large component orders from Panhard and De Dietrich. Parson 
hired George Terrasse who was an experienced auto designer and Hotchkiss 
started to build autos.

One of their first cars had a 19L Engine.Their autos had many state of 
the art features and were very reliable. Now the connection with our 
engines starts.Hotchkiss built autos until the First World War broke out 
and were back making guns.The French decided it would be best to move 
the Hotchkiss armaments factory to England to keep it away from German 
hands.The plant was moved to Coventry.

After the war they needed some thing to build, since they saturated the 
machine gun market.They built 1,100cc engines for BSA and in 1921 they 
took a contract with Morris to build copies of the American Continental 
engines that were originally built for the Morris Cowley.

This proved to be a big operation and 1923 William Morris purchased 
Hotchkiss-Coventry.

*Editor's Insert:* Since the factory had been moved from France, all the 
tooling was French Metric.It was considered too expensive to convert all 
the tooling to British specifications.So Leonard Lord came up with the 
idea of using Whitworth heads on the metric bolts and nuts so British 
mechanics could use their regular tools on the engines.Thus was born the 
"Nuffield Mad Metric" nuts and bolts used on all engines and 
transmissions made from 1923 thru 1956 in the now Morris Coventry engine 
factory.

/The overhead cam engines used in the early MGs all were this strange 
combination of French Metric threads with Whitworth heads./

/In 1936 MG adapted a Wolseley overhead valve engine for the new series 
MG, the TA/

This is where the XPA- series engines came from and why they use French 
Metric Threads.Our engines were derived from copies of an engine of the 
1920s, built by Continental in the USA (The Continental engine was a 
version of the engine designed before WW I by William Morris).

If you would like to read more about Hotchkiss please get a copy of 
Skinned Knuckles Vol. 30 No.] A UG. 2005, Foreign Affairs by John 
Kuerzi. This is where most of my information came from and l thank 
Skinned Knuckles for allowing me to copy much of the article.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 12:58:52 2013
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From: Ulla & Sven Ordell <bispmotala@hotmail.com>
To: "'Dave and Liz DuBois'" <ddubois@sinclair.net>,
	<mg-t@autox.team.net>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <51A4E978.5030607@sinclair.net>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 20:32:01 +0200
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] History of the XPAG engine
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Friends
Good Daid nearly full points.
Not quite as I remember and as far as I can check the history. In essential
yes, but

	/The overhead cam engines used in the early MGs all were this
strange combination of French Metric threads with Whitworth 	heads./

The MMM overhead cam engines were not a Morris design but a Wolseley one
before Morris bought the Wolseley works, thus all threads are "BSF related"
not Si metric. The inspiration for those OHC was another effect from WW1
when Wolseley built Hispano-Suiza aero engines.

	/In 1936 MG adapted a Wolseley overhead valve engine for the new
series MG, the TA/

That engine however was a Morris design, the Wolseley adaption came later,
and that uses the French SI metric threads and was developed into the XPAG
It was built at Morris engines branch (or whatever the old Hotchkiss factory
might have been called at that time).


-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] Fvr
Dave and Liz DuBois
Skickat: den 28 maj 2013 19:29
Till: mg-t@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
Dmne: [Mg-t] History of the XPAG engine

As Bob stated, not a tractor engine at all.  Below is an article written by
Jerry Felper, tracing the origin of the engine right back to the good old
USA!

All the best to all of you.
Sven
Sweden
TC 2085 and L types.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 29 10:40:39 2013
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 11:36:28 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Nuts, etc...
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Yes I put the rear of the frame up on jack stands and removed the left
rear wheel and - wait for it - cleaned and painted the lug nuts.  I
like to refinish as I go.  It gives a bit of variety to the work, not
to mention sitting versus standing and visa-versa.

The next step was to remove the left rear damper.  It was quite
heavily coated in dirt and grease.  And quite honestly, that's a good
thing.  It precludes rust!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_080633.jpg

A few Whitworth spanner twists later, the damper was free.  All bolts
and nuts came free somewhat easily.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_082638.jpg

I did discover that the bolt threads were damaged so I have bought
replacements in 3/8" - fine x 3" length, grade 5 bolts, washers and
nuts.  The mounting point on the frame is just fine.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_082646.jpg

With the damper free and upright on the workbench, I moved on the to
spring.  With the axle hanging on the straps, I broke the nuts loose
on the U-bolts.  I had soaked them yesterday with Liquid Wrench.
Here's a look at the area, just for documentation.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_082651.jpg

Another couple of documentation pictures.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_082709.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_082718.jpg

While the nuts and U-bolts soaked, I removed the rear shackle.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_084022.jpg

And with a few more spanner twists, the spring was free.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_092350e.jpg

Here's a look at the front spring mount point, before cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_094159.jpg

If it wasn't a bit of a PITA, this would be funny: After removing the
nut from the front spring bolt, I used a drift pin/punch to push the
bolt out.  A few taps on the drift broke the bolt free and sent it
flying INTO THE TUBULAR CROSSMEMBER!  I did say a few ugly words upon
discovering that!  Without much worry, I realized that I could just
feed a length of old hose through the tube and push the bolt out.

I had spent enough time fighting bolts (and looking for old water
hose) so I stopped and cleaned, sanded and primered another bit of the
frame.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_104247.jpg

Here's a little closer look.  Primer still drying.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_104252.jpg

And with that, I cleaned myself up and went for a drive in the E-Type
(read: went to the hardware store for those new damper bolts).  Fun!

This afternoon I hope to clean the rest of that run of frame, clear to
the end, then start the cleanup and refinishing of all the hardware
and bits I have since removed.

With best regards,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 29 14:19:37 2013
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:56:48 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Completed today's quest...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

As intended, I finished the top, outer side and bottom of the left
middle-to-rear frame.  Its now cleaned and primered from the scuttle
hoop to the rear bumper mount.  The inside of that rail, where the
brake line and harness run, will be addressed next.  And when
everything is cleaned and primered, I'll put on a nice coat of chassis
black.

Here are a couple of pictures of the work, in progress.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_142054.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_142108.jpg

In that second picture you can see a paper towel stuffed in the
bushing opening, just to keep extra paint out of there.

Here's another look.  I'll put a jack stand under the axle and R&R the
loop when next I get to the garage.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130529_142116.jpg

And as the day's work concluded, I rolled the car aside, and swept up
the debris.  In the background is my E-Type.  I rotate through the
cars, as long as the weather is nice, keeping the batteries charged
and the seals wet.  I also try to never forget how lucky I am to have
these cars.

I have to say, those Whitworth tools are the second best shop tools
I've ever bought.  The first, without doubt, is those four casters
under the car, allowing easy movement for cleanup.  They are genius!

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 30 03:56:08 2013
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Subject: [Mg-t] Roller Cams & Rocker Arms
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Hello Group,
I have roller lifter camshaft kits, 5 grinds from stock to race.
More power with better drive ability than any other camshaft on the market.
No cam, lifter wear.No ZDDP needed
All made in USA..
A period correct upgrade.
Roller rocker arms also.
Len Fanelli
Abingdon Performance
914 420 8699
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

