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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 14:36:31 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] first spring reinstalled
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

This afternoon my TD's rubber parts arrived so I reassembled the left
rear spring and installed it on new bushings.  Here's how it looks
now.  ( The domain server has been intermittent today so if you get
'not found' errors, just try again. )

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130604_135514e.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130604_135522e.jpg

The handbrake cable attachment is temporary as I haven't yet rebuilt
the slave cylinders or installed the rubber boots.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130604_135533e.jpg

The suspension bolts at the bushings are just snugged up, not tight,
awaiting the weight of the car on the suspension.  When at the Ferrari
factory a decade or so ago, I picked up on a tip the mechanics use
there.  Any nut or bolt that has been properly torqued, has a dab of
red or yellow paint placed across the nut and threads, or the bolt
head and the part.  That way, (1) It is obvious which parts have been
tightened/torqued, and (2) By observing the alignment of the paint
dab, it is obvious if a nut or bolt has moved.  For example, here is a
look at one of the cam belt tensioners on my 308GTB, right after I
replaced the belts.

http://www.aubard.us/hvac/HPIM0086.JPG

I'll do the same for the TD's suspension bolts, if perhaps a bit more subtly.

The new brake pipes arrived too.  They are from Moss and appear to be
of top quality copper-nickel alloy.  I have done nothing more than
identify and inventory them.  I believe that I will do a little more
cleaning and refinishing before running pipes...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130604_124652.jpg

-rick
PS: Black parts are really hard to photograph!
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 13:05:56 2013
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From: "Gable, Gerry" <GABLEG@ecu.edu>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: TC Master Brake 
Thread-Index: Ac5iHph8Jzf2BqzHSR+D7/genmCL3A==
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 18:57:44 +0000
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Subject: [Mg-t] TC Master Brake
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been comparing note on rebuild with another lister.  He is working on a
TD and cannot help.  None of my reference material deals with rebuild of the
Master Brake and I wondered if anyone on the list has any experience.  Even
Moss' catalog cut are not informative enough.  Any help is greatly
appreciated.
Thanks
Gerry
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 17:39:19 2013
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From: Duvall Video Productions <MIKE@DUVALLVIDEO.COM>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 18:07:52 -0500
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] 165 vs 180 thermostat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

The original style thermostat stuck closed in my TD.   I discovered a 52 mm
thermostat fits between the original housing and the curved pipe going into
the engine.   I found a NAPA THM 185 fits well and opens at 180 degrees (82
celcius).

It seems to operate well- the gauge sits on the low end until the thermostat
opens and then shoots up- eventually it reaches temp and stays there.   It has
a jiggle pin to let a little coolant and air through and I blocked off the
bypass.

I have since found a 160 degree as well ( Triton  TT6-160  and Dayton DT15C. )
that might fit.

Anyone know the original thermostat temp and what does everyone run?   Can you
tell the difference between a 160 and 180 from a running or comfort
standpoint?
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 19:14:12 2013
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 00:56:46 GMT
To: MIKE@DUVALLVIDEO.COM
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] 165 vs 180 thermostat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

  75C was the original stat, which I believe is 160F..
  Many prefer to run the engines at higher temps. My MGB is happy with a 190
stat, year round.
  It is thought that the 160 stat was warm enough for adequate engine
operation, and low enough to keep alcohol antifreeze evaporation at acceptable
amounts. As ethylene glycol antifreeze became the norm, stat temps increased.
   In 25F weather, or colder, the 75C stat may never open. The gauge is likely
to indicate 60 or so. In cold weather, I cover the bottom part of the radiator
slats with a canvas, adjusting to to raise the gauge to 75.

Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Duvall Video Productions <MIKE@DUVALLVIDEO.COM>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] 165 vs 180 thermostat
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 18:07:52 -0500

The original style thermostat stuck closed in my TD.   I discovered a 52 mm
thermostat fits between the original housing and the curved pipe going into
the engine.   I found a NAPA THM 185 fits well and opens at 180 degrees (82
celcius).

It seems to operate well- the gauge sits on the low end until the thermostat
opens and then shoots up- eventually it reaches temp and stays there.   It
has
a jiggle pin to let a little coolant and air through and I blocked off the
bypass.

I have since found a 160 degree as well ( Triton  TT6-160  and Dayton DT15C.
)
that might fit.

Anyone know the original thermostat temp and what does everyone run?   Can
you
tell the difference between a 160 and 180 from a running or comfort
standpoint?
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 06:52:49 2013
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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 05:29:24 -0700
References: <F0552312647DC949AC4CC9399848964DCAEDD8A8@Moe.intra.ecu.edu>
To: "Gable, Gerry" <GABLEG@ecu.edu>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TC Master Brake
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Aside from outward appearance, the internals of the TC and the TD
master cylinder are the same. Get hold of a MG TD/TF Factory Workshop
manual. Has much information on the master cylinder, as well as the
engine.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Jun 5, 2013, at 11:57 AM, Gable, Gerry wrote:

> I have been comparing note on rebuild with another lister.  He is working on
a
> TD and cannot help.  None of my reference material deals with rebuild of
the
> Master Brake and I wondered if anyone on the list has any experience.  Even
> Moss' catalog cut are not informative enough.  Any help is greatly
> appreciated.
> Thanks
> Gerry
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 07:23:50 2013
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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 06:02:26 -0700
References: <536E2133-477E-43C4-B8F1-A9AD17835814@DUVALLVIDEO.COM>
To: Duvall Video Productions <MIKE@DUVALLVIDEO.COM>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] 165 vs 180 thermostat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

The 160 degree thermostat would be closer to factory original.
If you have a heater for your car, you might want the 185 thermostat.

The original bellows type would close off the by-pass opening, as the
thermostat would open. You could block off the by-pass, or make a metal
piece that fits between the housing and the by-pass elbow, with a small
hole for water to pass through. That would duplicate the operation of the
by-pass as to water flow, with the thermostat open.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Jun 5, 2013, at 4:07 PM, Duvall Video Productions wrote:

> The original style thermostat stuck closed in my TD.   I discovered a 52 mm
> thermostat fits between the original housing and the curved pipe going into
> the engine.   I found a NAPA THM 185 fits well and opens at 180 degrees (82
> celcius).
>
> It seems to operate well- the gauge sits on the low end until the
thermostat
> opens and then shoots up- eventually it reaches temp and stays there.   It
has
> a jiggle pin to let a little coolant and air through and I blocked off the
> bypass.
>
> I have since found a 160 degree as well ( Triton  TT6-160  and Dayton DT15C.
)
> that might fit.
>
> Anyone know the original thermostat temp and what does everyone run?   Can
you
> tell the difference between a 160 and 180 from a running or comfort
> standpoint?
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 08:36:43 2013
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 09:31:53 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5iwpSIPdhXug2tSHGkMLI8CWsQhQ==
Subject: [Mg-t] Household MG 'Tools'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

This story starts with a trip to the dentist, doesn't every MG story start
that way? For several years I have had a cheap set, Harbor Freight 6/$3.99
dental picks in my box that have proved very handy for small things,
especially rebuilding SU carbs and electrical components. So on a recent
visit for a checkup I inquired of the young lady what they did with their
old tools. She responded that they re-sharpen them if they can, then they
are discarded. I asked if they had any old ones around and if I might have a
couple. Behold, when she gives my little bag with a new brush and floss
there are a dozen used dental tools in it of all different sizes and
thicknesses.

I also keep a syringe(we have a goat that needs monthly shots) and one of
those bulbs that they use to clean out newborn baby's noses in my toolbox.
Very handy for sucking the last bit of fluid from the brake res, gas from
the float bowl and adding just a little oil to the SU chamber tops.

Would like to hear from the list what other 'Non-Tool tools' you have in
your shop that have proved handy over the years. Things you don't find on
the Snap-On truck.

Open discussion,

Bill
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 09:11:02 2013
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From: Bob Mitchell <skunk149@hotmail.com>
To: "wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net"
	<mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 10:57:08 -0400
References: <930C7085AD5D4A4086CE0CEED1296F43@bboffice>
	FILETIME=[1E468DB0:01CE62C6]
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Household MG 'Tools'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

A cel phone and AAA membership!  Seriously, CT MG Guru Bob Howard once
brandished a tool that I believe he got from Steve Wincze, to pull out the
broken remnant of the inevitable TD rear axle half-shaft breakdown. I thought
that was pretty nifty, perhaps others may have a drawing. Blessedly, I never
needed to see the thing again.Hurrah for Harbour Fright, as a model-builder,
their 'oft less-than-robust tools are perfect for my miniature needs.

Bob Mitchell'53 TD MKII'71 E-Type Series 2 OTS'87 Mercedes 560SL'05 Honda
S2000
> From: wbeech@flash.net
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net; mgs@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 09:31:53 -0500
> Subject: [Mg-t] Household MG 'Tools'
>
> This story starts with a trip to the dentist, doesn't every MG story start
> that way? For several years I have had a cheap set, Harbor Freight 6/$3.99
> dental picks in my box that have proved very handy for small things,
> especially rebuilding SU carbs and electrical components. So on a recent
> visit for a checkup I inquired of the young lady what they did with their
> old tools. She responded that they re-sharpen them if they can, then they
> are discarded. I asked if they had any old ones around and if I might have
a
> couple. Behold, when she gives my little bag with a new brush and floss
> there are a dozen used dental tools in it of all different sizes and
> thicknesses.
>
> I also keep a syringe(we have a goat that needs monthly shots) and one of
> those bulbs that they use to clean out newborn baby's noses in my toolbox.
> Very handy for sucking the last bit of fluid from the brake res, gas from
> the float bowl and adding just a little oil to the SU chamber tops.
>
> Would like to hear from the list what other 'Non-Tool tools' you have in
> your shop that have proved handy over the years. Things you don't find on
> the Snap-On truck.
>
> Open discussion,
>
> Bill
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/skunk149@hotmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 13:12:12 2013
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 12:03:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: S Allen <s4usea@yahoo.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net, wbeech@flash.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Household MG 'Tools'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

And here I thought I was odd using my fly-tying toolkit....


--- On Thu, 6/6/13, wbeech@flash.net <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

From: wbeech@flash.net <wbeech@flash.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Household MG 'Tools'
To: mg-t@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, June 6, 2013, 10:31 AM

This story starts with a trip to the dentist, doesn't every MG story start
that way? For several years I have had a cheap set, Harbor Freight 6/$3.99
dental picks in my box that have proved very handy for small things,
especially rebuilding SU carbs and electrical components. So on a recent
visit for a checkup I inquired of the young lady what they did with their
old tools. She responded that they re-sharpen them if they can, then they
are discarded. I asked if they had any old ones around and if I might have a
couple. Behold, when she gives my little bag with a new brush and floss
there are a dozen used dental tools in it of all different sizes and
thicknesses.

I also keep a syringe(we have a goat that needs monthly shots) and one of
those bulbs that they use to clean out newborn baby's noses in my toolbox.
Very handy for sucking the last bit of fluid from the brake res, gas from
the float bowl and adding just a little oil to the SU chamber tops.

Would like to hear from the list what other 'Non-Tool tools' you have in
your shop that have proved handy over the years. Things you don't find on
the Snap-On truck.

Open discussion,

Bill
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/s4usea@yahoo.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 18:31:08 2013
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From: Douglas Ormrod <Douglas.Ormrod@Neurological.org.nz>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mg-t] Household MG 'Tools'
Thread-Index: Ac5iwpSIPdhXug2tSHGkMLI8CWsQhQAbLOggACnzIUA=
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 23:31:15 +0000
References: <930C7085AD5D4A4086CE0CEED1296F43@bboffice>
	<D7243AD61D83A24BAAC492216B6A9A8B307C6EFB@CORTEX.neuro.local>
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Subject: [Mg-t]  Household MG 'Tools'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a selection of locking artery forceps from my days as a rat surgeon.
All sorts of uses - clamping off pipes, holding small nuts in tight  spaces,
fishing out small parts that have dropped into inaccessible places, holding
electrical cable while soldering - and especially pulling the pin-bones out of
salmon, I keep a separate pair for that! They take a lot of bending without
breaking,

Cheers

Douglas


-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of wbeech@flash.net
Sent: Friday, 7 June 2013 2:32 a.m.
To: mg-t@autox.team.net; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Household MG 'Tools'

This story starts with a trip to the dentist, doesn't every MG story start
that way? For several years I have had a cheap set, Harbor Freight 6/$3.99
dental picks in my box that have proved very handy for small things,
especially rebuilding SU carbs and electrical components. So on a recent visit
for a checkup I inquired of the young lady what they did with their old tools.
She responded that they re-sharpen them if they can, then they are discarded.
I asked if they had any old ones around and if I might have a couple. Behold,
when she gives my little bag with a new brush and floss there are a dozen used
dental tools in it of all different sizes and thicknesses.

I also keep a syringe(we have a goat that needs monthly shots) and one of
those bulbs that they use to clean out newborn baby's noses in my toolbox.
Very handy for sucking the last bit of fluid from the brake res, gas from the
float bowl and adding just a little oil to the SU chamber tops.

Would like to hear from the list what other 'Non-Tool tools' you have in your
shop that have proved handy over the years. Things you don't find on the
Snap-On truck.

Open discussion,

Bill
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/douglas.ormrod@neurological.org.nz
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 20:02:01 2013
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To: Douglas.Ormrod@Neurological.org.nz, mg-t@autox.team.net
From: bmcspares@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Household MG 'Tools'
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On the MGB's the later ones in particular, the headlamp ring is nearly
impossible to remove with most tools. In the shop one found that the bottle
opener/paint can lid opener from the hardware store hooks the rim and having a
ring for the finger to fit through you can gently pry a stuck rim off with out
damage.

Jon Nyhus


-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas Ormrod <Douglas.Ormrod@Neurological.org.nz>
To: mg-t <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jun 7, 2013 5:26 pm
Subject: [Mg-t]  Household MG 'Tools'


I have a selection of locking artery forceps from my days as a rat surgeon.
All sorts of uses - clamping off pipes, holding small nuts in tight  spaces,
fishing out small parts that have dropped into inaccessible places, holding
electrical cable while soldering - and especially pulling the pin-bones out
of
salmon, I keep a separate pair for that! They take a lot of bending without
breaking,

Cheers

Douglas


-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of wbeech@flash.net
Sent: Friday, 7 June 2013 2:32 a.m.
To: mg-t@autox.team.net; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Household MG 'Tools'

This story starts with a trip to the dentist, doesn't every MG story start
that way? For several years I have had a cheap set, Harbor Freight 6/$3.99
dental picks in my box that have proved very handy for small things,
especially rebuilding SU carbs and electrical components. So on a recent
visit
for a checkup I inquired of the young lady what they did with their old
tools.
She responded that they re-sharpen them if they can, then they are discarded.
I asked if they had any old ones around and if I might have a couple. Behold,
when she gives my little bag with a new brush and floss there are a dozen
used
dental tools in it of all different sizes and thicknesses.

I also keep a syringe(we have a goat that needs monthly shots) and one of
those bulbs that they use to clean out newborn baby's noses in my toolbox.
Very handy for sucking the last bit of fluid from the brake res, gas from the
float bowl and adding just a little oil to the SU chamber tops.

Would like to hear from the list what other 'Non-Tool tools' you have in your
shop that have proved handy over the years. Things you don't find on the
Snap-On truck.

Open discussion,

Bill
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/douglas.ormrod@neurological.org.nz
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/bmcspares@aol.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 15:30:24 2013
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Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 16:25:22 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] TD project back on line...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Sorry to leave such a hiatus in the ongoing TD rebuild story.  My
internet connection, via AT&T U-verse failed (noisy incoming line).
And since the MGS and MG-T lists require 'simple text format' AND my
portable devices can only send 'rich formatting', I've been in
read-only mode.  That doesn't mean that I haven't been in the garage!
Here's an update.

When last I wrote, I had cleaned, degreased and refinished about 40%
of the TD's frame and rear suspension.  I have now completed
everything from the hoop back, except the right-rear spring.

Here's about where the story left off, right after removing the spring.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130605_123025.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130605_123037.jpg

A day or so I started work on this corner.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130605_123043.jpg

While other things were going on, I painted the exhaust with the
high-heat paint.  Hopefully it will be reusable.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130605_123057.jpg

Here's how the frame looked after the cleaning, degreasing and painting.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130607_093249.jpg

A day later I installed the first of the new brake lines.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130607_125952.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130607_130003.jpg

The offset around the strap should clear the side-curtain box, but I
will be quite careful when lowering the tub onto the chassis.  If its
too close, I'll reshape the brake line.

Here's how the chassis sits today.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130607_130021.jpg

I was planning work in the garage today but since I cleaned the bench
up nicely yesterday, I decided to take a day off.  Well, that and the
realization that the next two jobs are quite dirty.

First of all, I need to rebuild the spring.  That means taking it all
apart, sanding the leaves, primering and painting,  That's the dirty
bit.  I'll then reassemble it with new rubber bits and bolt it up to
the frame on new bushings.

The next quest is the cleanup and refinishing of the dampers.  They
are heavily coated in grimy dirt.  I have, however, run them through
compression and rebound and they work smoothly, exerting more
resistance in compression, just as designed.  Perhaps tomorrow I'll
get at least one of them refurbished.  Fortunately, I have a nice, new
bottle of Moss shock oil.

Glad to be back, Friends.  Happy Saturday.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 09:57:30 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Somewhere between the schematic and the harness
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

In all my scrounging around on the Internet, I have not been able to
find a diagram of the TD's wiring harness layout and connectivity.
These drawings are common for other British vehicles.  I just can't
find one for THIS car.  Let me explain what I'm talking about.

The TD's wiring is quite simple and schematics are in the workshop
manual.  Harnesses are available from Moss, etc., and they are of high
quality.  What is missing is a sketch of the harness routing and the
breakouts from the harness, indicating which color-code of wires go to
which lugs of the various components.  And yes, one can work this out
pretty easily given the schematic and snapshots taken before
disassembly.  But I think a simple, easy guide would benefit our
community.  If you have one (Bud?), or know of one, please share the
reference.  Otherwise, I will make one as I plan my car's rewiring,
and share it with the T-Series community.

-rick.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 11:25:41 2013
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References: <CAOc+-dzkYbtyuKaJ2Wv7S9addZ+L6bjj3H6fuXODdX8tttHNuA@mail.gmail.com>
From: Tuck Southworth <tuck.southworth@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 13:17:32 -0400
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Somewhere between the schematic and the harness
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
I'm guessing this might be after the fact but when I replaced the wire harness
on my TF I snipped off all but about two inches of old wire from each
connection.  I used what I left in place as a guide when I installed the new
harness.  It's pretty straight forward and as you noted having reference
photos makes routing the various breakouts fairly simple.
Tuck

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 9, 2013, at 10:57 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hello Friends,
>
> In all my scrounging around on the Internet, I have not been able to
> find a diagram of the TD's wiring harness layout and connectivity.
> These drawings are common for other British vehicles.  I just can't
> find one for THIS car.  Let me explain what I'm talking about.
>
> The TD's wiring is quite simple and schematics are in the workshop
> manual.  Harnesses are available from Moss, etc., and they are of high
> quality.  What is missing is a sketch of the harness routing and the
> breakouts from the harness, indicating which color-code of wires go to
> which lugs of the various components.  And yes, one can work this out
> pretty easily given the schematic and snapshots taken before
> disassembly.  But I think a simple, easy guide would benefit our
> community.  If you have one (Bud?), or know of one, please share the
> reference.  Otherwise, I will make one as I plan my car's rewiring,
> and share it with the T-Series community.
>
> -rick.
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/tuck.southworth@gmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 11:59:41 2013
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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2013 13:54:33 -0400
From: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@comcast.net>
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	wbVtVTQMHTE9g==
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Somewhere between the schematic and the harness
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick, I suspect that such a wiring harness layout diagram is uncommon is 
because of the simplicity, and consistency, of the TD's wiring.  
Observance of the wiring color code is all that you really need.  Just 
take the wiring harness and lay it out on the floor. You can picture the 
components along the chassis and, if you look at the wiring color code, 
you can readily pinpoint what goes where. Very few wires aren't 
specified, e.g., the wire from the coil to the distributor and the power 
lead for the clock.  The sub-harness for the rear wiring identifies 
itself by its colors.  The only one that really causes a second OSH is 
the dash harness, but after a bit even it becomes obvious.

Just give it a try,

Bud
Richard Lindsay wrote:
> Hello Friends,
>
> In all my scrounging around on the Internet, I have not been able to
> find a diagram of the TD's wiring harness layout and connectivity.
> These drawings are common for other British vehicles.  I just can't
> find one for THIS car.  Let me explain what I'm talking about.
>
> The TD's wiring is quite simple and schematics are in the workshop
> manual.  Harnesses are available from Moss, etc., and they are of high
> quality.  What is missing is a sketch of the harness routing and the
> breakouts from the harness, indicating which color-code of wires go to
> which lugs of the various components.  And yes, one can work this out
> pretty easily given the schematic and snapshots taken before
> disassembly.  But I think a simple, easy guide would benefit our
> community.  If you have one (Bud?), or know of one, please share the
> reference.  Otherwise, I will make one as I plan my car's rewiring,
> and share it with the T-Series community.
>
> -rick.
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/budkrueger@comcast.net
______________________________________________

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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 16:10:08 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 17:01:53 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] As promised
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

I finished the rear brake plumbing and have a few pictures to share.
Here they are.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130610_161409.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130610_161423.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130610_161436.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130610_161501.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130610_161524.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130610_161534.jpg

And you know I'm a physicist (read: geek) but in case your opinion has
atrophied, here's renewed proof:

I think this is just beautiful.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130610_162644.jpg

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 07:18:17 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 08:07:11 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Out with the old...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Out with the old...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130613_074409.jpg

In with the new...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130613_074431.jpg

Well, not 'in' yet, per se.  But almost ready.  The metal floor pan is
now being sanded and refinished.  The wood will be painted with Minwax
Wood Hardener then painted black, and the metal pan installed.

Bonus question: What classic British car has a boot large enough to
carry TD floorboards?!

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 14:10:48 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
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Subject: [Mg-t] water pump rebuilding
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List, 



Who are the recommended rebuilders for T series water pumps? 



TIA, 



Ed Woods 
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <1197711286.327770.1371132648079.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
From: Tuck Southworth <tuck.southworth@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 11:46:08 -0400
To: "fogbro1@comcast.net" <fogbro1@comcast.net>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] water pump rebuilding
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I had mine rebuilt by Phil Marino who adds a sealed bearing to the design.  I
would have said he's the goto guy but understand he is no longer in business
(can anyone confirm??) and that Butch Taras has taken over and supplies the
same redesigned pump.

Butch can be reached at mgowner@yahoo.com
Tuck

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 13, 2013, at 10:10 AM, fogbro1@comcast.net wrote:

> List,
>
>
>
> Who are the recommended rebuilders for T series water pumps?
>
>
>
> TIA,
>
>
>
> Ed Woods
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/tuck.southworth@gmail.com
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 15:27:09 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net, "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Rusty thermostat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey Friends,

The XPAG thermostat is a different beast, as we all know.  I'd like to
save mine if possible - if for no other reason, to avoid the high cost
of a new one!  Right now at an ambient temperature of 98 degrees F, it
is stuck open.  Yea, its freekin' hot in Houston!  Anyway, the unit is
also rusty.  Please tell me if there is a compound in which I can soak
the thermostat to clean away the rusty deposits and perhaps make it
serviceable again.  Thanks.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <CAOc+-dwourKnFzDGYwAL6iA35EUPJuCtvQsFhUqWP=jUb6+Q3Q@mail.gmail.com>
From: Gene Gillam <anngene@bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 17:43:48 -0400
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Rusty thermostat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Try white vinegar...but not for too long.

Gene
Pardon the brevity, this was sent from my iPad

On Jun 13, 2013, at 16:27, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com> wrote:

Hey Friends,

The XPAG thermostat is a different beast, as we all know.  I'd like to
save mine if possible - if for no other reason, to avoid the high cost
of a new one!  Right now at an ambient temperature of 98 degrees F, it
is stuck open.  Yea, its freekin' hot in Houston!  Anyway, the unit is
also rusty.  Please tell me if there is a compound in which I can soak
the thermostat to clean away the rusty deposits and perhaps make it
serviceable again.  Thanks.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/anngene@bellsouth.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 17:08:05 2013
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 21:43:18 GMT
To: richardolindsay@gmail.com, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] [Mgs] Rusty thermostat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

  Try soaking in Citric Acid solution.  Powdered citric acid is used when
canning low-acid tomatoes, and it's in the Ball-jar section of TruVal hardware
stores, probably in the grocery store too.  I used it to remove some light
rust accumulation of TD bolts.  CocaCola would be a milder acid.   Stronger
acid is Muriatic Acid. It's in the swimming pool section of hardware stores.
The trick is to eat away the rust w/o eating away the brass and copper.  In a
recent issue of Totally T Type was an article by a guy who used it to clean
the rust from the block of an MG, and he said that he planned to use a weaker
solution in his radiator.  He must know a lot more about Chemistry than I
do.....  I found the citric acid to work on the rust of TD bolts, but muriatic
worked so much faster that it's what I have been using recently.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net, "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Rusty thermostat
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 15:27:09 -0500

Hey Friends,

The XPAG thermostat is a different beast, as we all know.  I'd like to
save mine if possible - if for no other reason, to avoid the high cost
of a new one!  Right now at an ambient temperature of 98 degrees F, it
is stuck open.  Yea, its freekin' hot in Houston!  Anyway, the unit is
also rusty.  Please tell me if there is a compound in which I can soak
the thermostat to clean away the rusty deposits and perhaps make it
serviceable again.  Thanks.

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 14 19:12:59 2013
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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 13:13:57 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] OT , tablet test
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Please excuse this test.  I'm trying to make my tablet send e-mail as
simple ASCII text.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 08:38:09 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 09:36:22 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Thermostat replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

My '53 M.G.TD's thermostat is stuck open.  Even after 12 hours soaking
in vinegar, soaking in hot water for a while, and a couple of hours in
the freezer (e.g. exercising through extremes) the thermostat
diaphragms do not move.  Yes, I can force the diaphragm a little
toward the shut position, after time in the freezer.  It feels like
the 'frozen' diaphragm mechanism is just corroded and stuck.

So the questions are:

1. Should I continue to try to exercise the diaphragm through
temperature extremes?

2. Should I gut the thermostat and use the 160 degree F, 2"
conventional unit between the angle fitting and the old thermostat?

3. Should I buy a new 'correct' thermostat?

Mind you, I am not building a show car, nor am I building a daily
driver.  I'm building a car to play with on the weekends when the
weather allows.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 09:47:06 2013
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From: "Clive Sherriff" <clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com>
To: "Richard Lindsay" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOc+-dyeLKd4BhbY-WuC-wJKKzgsCsS2affGhny8Z898CxT-DQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 16:43:53 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Thermostat replacement  Solution.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,

Thats a no brainer - action sequence is :-

1, for a short time just to make you happy and content that at least you 
tried,

followed immediately by either 2. or 3. selected most easily by just 
flipping a coin.

Best Regards,

Clive
Oxford, UK
 = ===================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Lindsay" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2013 3:36 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] Thermostat replacement


> Hello Friends,
>
> My '53 M.G.TD's thermostat is stuck open.  Even after 12 hours soaking
> in vinegar, soaking in hot water for a while, and a couple of hours in
> the freezer (e.g. exercising through extremes) the thermostat
> diaphragms do not move.  Yes, I can force the diaphragm a little
> toward the shut position, after time in the freezer.  It feels like
> the 'frozen' diaphragm mechanism is just corroded and stuck.
>
> So the questions are:
>
> 1. Should I continue to try to exercise the diaphragm through
> temperature extremes?
>
> 2. Should I gut the thermostat and use the 160 degree F, 2"
> conventional unit between the angle fitting and the old thermostat?
>
> 3. Should I buy a new 'correct' thermostat?
>
> Mind you, I am not building a show car, nor am I building a daily
> driver.  I'm building a car to play with on the weekends when the
> weather allows.
>
> -rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 10:01:24 2013
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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 08:56:13 -0700
References: <CAOc+-dyeLKd4BhbY-WuC-wJKKzgsCsS2affGhny8Z898CxT-DQ@mail.gmail.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Thermostat replacement
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I found this while doing a search.
Jim Otto - Fulton Sylphon Bellows Engineer
SYLENGR@aol.com
865-966-9494

10700 Alameda Drive
Knoxville, TN 37932

Have not had any work done with Jim, but he says that he can
rebuild the bellows thermostats.
I had sent him an inquiry about his supplying replacement bellows
units, but did not hear back on that request.
Maybe he can rebuild, based on components being there, but cannot
supply missing components.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Jun 15, 2013, at 7:36 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote:

> Hello Friends,
>
> My '53 M.G.TD's thermostat is stuck open.  Even after 12 hours soaking
> in vinegar, soaking in hot water for a while, and a couple of hours in
> the freezer (e.g. exercising through extremes) the thermostat
> diaphragms do not move.  Yes, I can force the diaphragm a little
> toward the shut position, after time in the freezer.  It feels like
> the 'frozen' diaphragm mechanism is just corroded and stuck.
>
> So the questions are:
>
> 1. Should I continue to try to exercise the diaphragm through
> temperature extremes?
>
> 2. Should I gut the thermostat and use the 160 degree F, 2"
> conventional unit between the angle fitting and the old thermostat?
>
> 3. Should I buy a new 'correct' thermostat?
>
> Mind you, I am not building a show car, nor am I building a daily
> driver.  I'm building a car to play with on the weekends when the
> weather allows.
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 12:04:56 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net, "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Thermostat, cont.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

I have given my TD's thermostat ample opportunity to impress me but
alas, it has thumbed its non-op nose at me.  I now look for other
options.  But until then, here are some pictures to document the
journey.

Here's how the thermostat looked back in May, right after removing the radiator.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130514_093939.jpg

Following the advice of the kind MG-T List members here, I soaked the
thermostat in vinegar for 12 hours or so and that removed A LOT of
corrosion.  Here's how it looked at the end of 12 hours, still in the
vinegar.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130615_075752.jpg

Obviously, a lot of crud came out of the unit!  After washing with
soap and warm water, this is how it looked (still a little damp).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130615_080235.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130615_080243.jpg

I poured boiling water into the thermostat with it resting in a
plastic jar.  After that soak, and no obvious diaphragm movement, I
put the dried off unit in the freezer where it lived overnight.  Nancy
was not amused.  Here's how it looked fresh from the meat locker this
morning, but I could press the disk closed a little.  There was
movement.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130615_105540.jpg

Its now resting in boiling water again, and the diaphragm is open, as
it should be.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130615_112823.jpg

Obviously, crud is still coming out!

At this point, I think I am going to un-solder the diaphragm disk and
see of I can mechanically clean the movement.  I'm not above
disassembling the whole thing in the hopes of a repair.  Worst I can
do is trash it completely and either use a conventional element below
it or order a replacement at $130usd.  The best result might even
surprise even the doubters here. :-)

On another front, I visited my local Ace Hardware yesterday and bought
two rubber stoppers to fit in the fuel tank outlet and drain holes.  I
now need to make a blanking plate for the sender port.  Once all
that's done, I can add the Marine-Clean to the tank and start the
swamping-out process.

Starting next week, I will be visiting my great friend, Rui Gigante,
in Porto Portugal.  Rui is a Ferrari guy like me, but he also has an
M.G. addiction.  With a beautifully restored '60 MGA in the garage, he
has now turned his attention to a modified B-GT to use as a daily
driver.  That car started from totally-dead, just the way I like to
start projects.  :-P  There's great fun in bringing them back to life!
 I look forward to seeing all the progress he's made on that project -
and driving his 328GTS! :-P

And while totally OT, have any of you seen the new Alfa C4?  It looks
way-cool but for the same money, I think the Porsche Cayman is a
better deal: That's reliability speaking, not art.

Happy Saturday!

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 05:34:04 2013
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From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

I'm sure oil threads cause as much hate-n-discontent here as on any other
List, so I write with a degree of trepidation.  Actually, I seek only your
opinion, not science.  Please share yours.

As I ponder the reassembly if my '53 TD2, I am considering fluids.  For the
rack, gearbox and diff, I believe the consensus is #90 hypoid oil.  I've
always found that an interesting way to say "oil with a very high film tear
strength suitable for hypoid gear mating."  Redline is probably my
brand-of-choice but I'm open to suggestion.

Engine oil is another matter all together.  Since this will be a full
rebuild with new bearings and new rings in freshly honed cylinders, I need
an oil that will lubricate properly and promote bedding-in.

I live in a climate where the temperature extremes are 50F-90F, for any day
when the car might be used.  And I believe the workshop manual recommends
straight 30-weight oil.  For this temperature range, that sounds about
right.  In later M.G.s I've always used Castrol GTX (20w50).

For the break-in / bedding-in period, would you use straight #30 mineral
oil?  Detergent or non-detergent?And after the break-in period, the same
specification (fresh) oil?

Sharing your opinions and experiences would be appreciated.  Thank you.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <CAOc+-dxki4r=s4++1NsVK7bnaCrOvqk7VBvX3ejp8xiToSEGGQ@mail.gmail.com>
From: Tuck Southworth <tuck.southworth@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 10:56:07 -0400
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
You will receive many opinions as this subject has been much discussed on the
forum over the years.  Heres my 2c's
I agree that you should use 90 hypoid for the steering rack, gearbox and diff.
Several years ago I switched over to a synthetic for the gearbox as I was led
to believe it would be better for an aging set of gears.  It does seem to
shift smoother.

I'll leave the break-in oils to others who know better but I would include a
zinc additive such as found in the Lucus' break in oils.

For normal everyday engine oil I use Valvoline VR1 20/50.  It has a high zinc
formula which is much needed in our pushrod engines.  I think they still
produce two versions, a road and race formula.

Tuck

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 17, 2013, at 7:30 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hello Friends,
>
> I'm sure oil threads cause as much hate-n-discontent here as on any other
> List, so I write with a degree of trepidation.  Actually, I seek only your
> opinion, not science.  Please share yours.
>
> As I ponder the reassembly if my '53 TD2, I am considering fluids.  For the
> rack, gearbox and diff, I believe the consensus is #90 hypoid oil.  I've
> always found that an interesting way to say "oil with a very high film tear
> strength suitable for hypoid gear mating."  Redline is probably my
> brand-of-choice but I'm open to suggestion.
> ar
> Engine oil is another matter all together.  Since this will be a full
> rebuild with new bearings and new rings in freshly honed cylinders, I need
> an oil that will lubricate properly and promote bedding-in.
>
> I live in a climate where the temperature extremes are 50F-90F, for any day
> when the car might be used.  And I believe the workshop manual recommends
> straight 30-weight oil.  For this temperature range, that sounds about
> right.  In later M.G.s I've always used Castrol GTX (20w50).
>
> For the break-in / bedding-in period, would you use straight #30 mineral
> oil?  Detergent or non-detergent?And after the break-in period, the same
> specification (fresh) oil?
>
> Sharing your opinions and experiences would be appreciated.  Thank you.
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/tuck.southworth@gmail.com
______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:10:29 -0400
From: Ted Jackson <ted@the-jacksons.ca>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130510
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
References: <CAOc+-dxki4r=s4++1NsVK7bnaCrOvqk7VBvX3ejp8xiToSEGGQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<5CB1849C-5298-45A4-B8F5-A18974010078@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

FWIW in my 1951 MGTD I use Redline MT90 in the gearbox, Redline 75W90 in 
the differential, and I add a can of GM EOS part # 992869 with every oil 
change, where I use Castrol 20W50 whenever I find it on sale. In the 
steering rack I use Motomaster 80W90 Extreme Pressure Gear Oil. 
(Canadian Tire)

I'm pasting in an article from the Ontario MG T Register where Frank 
Mount, a noted MGT racer, made a recommendation which I follow.

Like Tuck I'll leave engine rebuilds/break-in for the experts.

Ted Jackson


  ZDDT Oil Additive

<http://www.omgtr.ca/technical/ZDDT%20Oil%20Additive/supplement.jpg>There has 
been much discussion on the web about the fact that the latest oil 
formulations have reduced, or eliminated, their ZDDT and Phosphorus 
content. There are still specialty oils available which have ZDDT levels 
at 1200ppm or above. However modern oils, even our beloved Castrol 
20W50, fall far below this mark.

Frank Mount advises me that he uses one can (500ml) of AC Delco Engine 
Oil Supplement with each oil change. AC Delco EOS contains 6221ppm of 
ZDDT and 5762ppm of Phosphorus. It is readily available at GM 
dealerships and retails for $8.20. On November 20, 2010 I bought 3 cans 
at City Buick and was given a volume discount to $6.50 per can!

I, for what that's worth, am following Frank's advice.

AC Delco Engine Oil Supplement is available at GM dealers as Part # 992869

For a treatise on how ZDDP works, (and what ZDDP stands for!) I suggest 
that you look at http://www.sherbournemews.com/oil.pdf.


Ted Jackson

On 13-06-17 10:56 AM, Tuck Southworth wrote:
> I'll leave the break-in oils to others who know better but I would include a
> zinc additive such as found in the Lucus' break in oils.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of ted.vcf]
______________________________________________

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From: Mike E <redscirocco@hotmail.com>
To: Tuck Southworth <tuck.southworth@gmail.com>, Richard Lindsay
	<richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:55:55 -0400
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Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I have no argument with using 90 weight hypoid in the steering rack, but
according to one of Richard Knudsen's publications, the reason oil was used in
the steering rack was because grease would harden.  Today you can buy grease
that doesn't harden and which, according to Knudsen, you can use in your
steering rack.  This saves you from having to have a specially modified ,
oil-filled grease gun in your garage.  The other benefit is that it won't all
run out if there's a tear in your rack boots, leaving the rack dry.  Another
fellow told me he has always used a slurry of gear oil and grease.  It's worth
exploring further and making your own decision.

That said, I have always used gear oil, and right now my steering rack is
properly filled with oil - last time it was in the shop for another issue, I
had the rack boots replaced.  Being a British specialty shop, they have an
oil-filled grease gun on hand.
You'll hear lots of talk about engine oil and zinc (ZDDP), and some people are
quite passionate about it.  I use plain old 10W 30 (I buy Castrol, but any
brand name should work), which was recommended to me by my mechanic, who has
30+ years experience with British cars.  Since the engine was rebuilt
including a new camshaft and tappets several years ago (after I dropped a
valve!), everything appears to be fine.

The intertubes (and various lists) are abound with people who will insist that
using modern oil will lead to catastrophic wear, and just as many who say the
concern is grossly overblown.  I'm not claiming any expertise, but I've done
my own research, read reports (that are available online), looked at who is
saying what and why, and decided that I would not be overly concerned about
the amount of ZDDP in my oil.

-Mike

> From: tuck.southworth@gmail.com
> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 10:56:07 -0400
> To: richardolindsay@gmail.com
> CC: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] oil
>
> Rick,
> You will receive many opinions as this subject has been much discussed on
the
> forum over the years.  Heres my 2c's
> I agree that you should use 90 hypoid for the steering rack, gearbox and
diff.
> Several years ago I switched over to a synthetic for the gearbox as I was
led
> to believe it would be better for an aging set of gears.  It does seem to
> shift smoother.
>
> I'll leave the break-in oils to others who know better but I would include
a
> zinc additive such as found in the Lucus' break in oils.
>
> For normal everyday engine oil I use Valvoline VR1 20/50.  It has a high
zinc
> formula which is much needed in our pushrod engines.  I think they still
> produce two versions, a road and race formula.
>
> Tuck
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 17, 2013, at 7:30 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hello Friends,
> >
> > I'm sure oil threads cause as much hate-n-discontent here as on any other
> > List, so I write with a degree of trepidation.  Actually, I seek only
your
> > opinion, not science.  Please share yours.
> >
> > As I ponder the reassembly if my '53 TD2, I am considering fluids.  For
the
> > rack, gearbox and diff, I believe the consensus is #90 hypoid oil.  I've
> > always found that an interesting way to say "oil with a very high film
tear
> > strength suitable for hypoid gear mating."  Redline is probably my
> > brand-of-choice but I'm open to suggestion.
> > ar
> > Engine oil is another matter all together.  Since this will be a full
> > rebuild with new bearings and new rings in freshly honed cylinders, I
need
> > an oil that will lubricate properly and promote bedding-in.
> >
> > I live in a climate where the temperature extremes are 50F-90F, for any
day
> > when the car might be used.  And I believe the workshop manual recommends
> > straight 30-weight oil.  For this temperature range, that sounds about
> > right.  In later M.G.s I've always used Castrol GTX (20w50).
> >
> > For the break-in / bedding-in period, would you use straight #30 mineral
> > oil?  Detergent or non-detergent?And after the break-in period, the same
> > specification (fresh) oil?
> >
> > Sharing your opinions and experiences would be appreciated.  Thank you.
> >
> > -rick
> > ______________________________________________
> >
> > Mg-t@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/tuck.southworth@gmail.com
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/redscirocco@hotmail.com
______________________________________________

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	UTC
From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 13:37:34 -0500
References: <mailman.17.1371492004.5553.mg-t@autox.team.net>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] engine oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,   If your rebuilding your engine with new tappets or cam,  you need to
follow the manufacture's recommendation on break in procedures.   This seems
to entail mineral break in oil that contains the adequate chemical
formulations for ensuring proper hardness.

For example,  you might note Crane says the first 20 minutes is the critical
period, they then recommend (not require) mineral oil for the first 5000 miles
before switching to synthetic.  (no where do they say a ZDDP additive is
required)

CRANE FLAT TAPPET CAMSHAFT RECOMMENDED BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
Due to the EPAs mandate for zinc removal from most motor oils, proper flat
tappet camshaft break-in procedure
is more critical than ever before. This is true for both hydraulic and
mechanical flat tappet Camshafts. As a point of
interest, the most critical time in the life of a flat tappet camshaft is the
first 20 minutes of break-in during which the
bottoms of the tappets mate-in with the cam lobes.
There are some oils with additive packages that are better for camshaft
break-in. These include, but are not limited
to: (Brad Penn or Maxima) or a race only petroleum- based oil and include
Crane Cams Part # 99003-1
Super Lube additive. Do not use API rated SL or SM oil
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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	<27421112-B5AB-407C-8364-A733580FD739@duvallvideo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] engine oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 6/17/2013 1:37 PM, Duvall Video Productions wrote:

(no where do they say a ZDDP additive is required)  >>

Because IIRC the Brad Penn ( along with Joe Gibbs Oils---3 time winner of Super Bowl ! ! ! ) IS/ARE
formulated WITH correct++ ZZDP in quantities required to protect our motors, Mike <G> ! !

This is also true with the 'new' Castrol GT 20/50 (which I use exclusively !).

For 'after-break-in' I do NOT recommend synthetics for general motor use.  Far TOO many leaks<G> !
Brits motors leak enough <G> !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:					www.justbrits.com
[50+ <sigh> years experience <G>]
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<27421112-B5AB-407C-8364-A733580FD739@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 14:09:14 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] engine oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks everyone, for the lubricant advice.  Of course, it is a more complex
issue than, "Always use XYZ."  When I get closer (in 3 months or so) I'll
ask again.  I have lots to consider now and lots of measurements to do yet!

-rick
______________________________________________

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	{sentby:smtp auth 24.15.13.164 authed with sales@justbrits.com}
Subject: [Mg-t] Fwd: F/S
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Holiday SPECIAL --- FOR SALE

Carpet Set (includes footwell insert)

454-478 
<http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=454-478&WebCatalogID=0>

 From 4237 TD & MGTF, BLACK  (all LHD) [and in case item link doesn't 
work -:) ]

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=454-478&WebCatalogID=0

NORMAL & AS OF 12/26/2010
    .... List Price ============ $ 389.95

My NORMAL. eMail Price = $ 330.11

Your PRE-listing on ebay, craigslist, amazon, etc., etc, meaning the 
EXTRA SPECIAL,

My "get it OUT of HERE" price is $ 194.975 + ACTUAL shipping ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:                        www.justbrits.com

PS:  Few more "T" things coming soon !
______________________________________________

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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 13:52:48 -0500
References: <mailman.19.1371578404.7460.mg-t@autox.team.net>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 91
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

You miss the point Ed,  no where does Crane cams recommend ZDDP additives to
protect their cams--  they only require special oil during the break in....


On Jun 18, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Because IIRC the Brad Penn ( along with Joe Gibbs Oils---3 time winner of
Super Bowl ! ! ! ) IS/ARE
> formulated WITH correct++ ZZDP in quantities required to protect our motors,
Mike <G> ! !
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 13:52:43 -0500
References: <mailman.19.1371578404.7460.mg-t@autox.team.net>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 91
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

You miss the point Ed,  no where does Crane cams recommend ZDDP additives to
protect their cams--  they only require special oil during the break in....


On Jun 18, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Because IIRC the Brad Penn ( along with Joe Gibbs Oils---3 time winner of
Super Bowl ! ! ! ) IS/ARE
> formulated WITH correct++ ZZDP in quantities required to protect our motors,
Mike <G> ! !
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 13:42:45 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 15:41:18 -0400
From: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@comcast.net>
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To: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>, mg-t@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.19.1371578404.7460.mg-t@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 91
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Mike, I think that you're the one missing Crane's point.  They are 
suggesting that users avoid the use of 'modern oils', i.e., SLor SM.  
These are the oils virtually without the critical ZDDP additives.  It's 
the tappets that are in trouble, not the cam lobes.

Bud


Duvall Video Productions wrote:
> You miss the point Ed,  no where does Crane cams recommend ZDDP additives to
> protect their cams--  they only require special oil during the break in....
>
>
> On Jun 18, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>
>> Because IIRC the Brad Penn ( along with Joe Gibbs Oils---3 time winner of
> Super Bowl ! ! ! ) IS/ARE
>> formulated WITH correct++ ZZDP in quantities required to protect our motors,
> Mike <G> ! !
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/budkrueger@comcast.net
______________________________________________

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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 13:53:26 2013
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 14:50:39 -0500
References: <mailman.19.1371578404.7460.mg-t@autox.team.net>
	<D36B2795-2B66-4E88-B7AD-E8E24B0380D0@duvallvideo.com>
	<51C0B7DE.5010703@comcast.net>
To: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@comcast.net>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 91
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

No Bud,  read the sheet again-  the no SL SM is under the break in period.


"There are some oils with additive packages that are better for camshaft
break-in. These include, but are not limited to: (Brad Penn or Maxima) or a
race only petroleum- based oil and include Crane Cams Part # 99003-1 Super
Lube additive. Do not use API rated SL or SM oil."


On Jun 18, 2013, at 2:41 PM, Bud Krueger wrote:

> Mike, I think that you're the one missing Crane's point.  They are
suggesting that users avoid the use of 'modern oils', i.e., SLor SM.  These
are the oils virtually without the critical ZDDP additives.  It's the tappets
that are in trouble, not the cam lobes.
>
> Bud
>
>
> Duvall Video Productions wrote:
>> You miss the point Ed,  no where does Crane cams recommend ZDDP additives
to
>> protect their cams--  they only require special oil during the break
in....
>>
>>
>> On Jun 18, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>>
>>> Because IIRC the Brad Penn ( along with Joe Gibbs Oils---3 time winner of
>> Super Bowl ! ! ! ) IS/ARE
>>> formulated WITH correct++ ZZDP in quantities required to protect our
motors,
>> Mike <G> ! !
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/budkrueger@comcast.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 08:34:32 2013
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 09:30:38 -0500
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] fuel line flare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

My friend's TD had an odd looking flare on his fuel line going into the pump.
Can anyone tell me about the flare type?   Is there a place to buy a tool?
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 19:13:31 2013
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From: BOB GRUNAU <grunau.garage@sympatico.ca>
To: "Duvall Video Productions" <mike@duvallvideo.com>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 21:15:32 -0400
	FILETIME=[286E6640:01CE6D53]
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] fuel line flare
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Fuel line is 5/16" copper tube. Original end connections were a soldered
special end. No need for that. Go to any hardware or plumbing store and buy
some 5/16" round tubing ferrules. These will work just fine on 5/16" tubing
into the pump.
Bob, Canada

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Duvall Video Productions
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 10:31 AM
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] fuel line flare


My friend's TD had an odd looking flare on his fuel line going into the
pump.
Can anyone tell me about the flare type?   Is there a place to buy a tool?
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/grunau.garage@sympatico.ca
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 27 07:14:05 2013
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Subject: [Mg-t] Fwd: Finned Find: 1959 Cadillac Convertible
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	Finned Find: 1959 Cadillac Convertible
Date: 	Thu, 27 Jun 2013 00:17:08 -0400
From: 	BarnFinds.com <mail@barnfinds.com>
To: 	Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>



Rick, HERE is the car you shoulda 'done' instead of the TD <G> ! ! !


  -------------ant Updates

<http://www.barnfinds.com/>

<snip - Barn Finds Logo>


    Finned Find: 1959 Cadillac Convertible
    <http://www.barnfinds.com/finned-garage-find-1959-cadillac-convertible/>

<snip - picture>

If you like your classic cars to have fins, then this 1959 Cadillac 
Series 62 Convertible might be right up your alley, as it has the 
largest fins ever fitted to a factory built car. The current owner has 
had it in storage for the past 30 years, but has decided to let it go 
because they lack the time to restore it. Over the years it has had a 
couple of homes, including a barn and this garage in Idaho. Have a 
look here on eBay <http://www.barnfinds.com/ebay.php?id=190861540487>.

The post Finned Find: 1959 Cadillac Convertible 
<http://www.barnfinds.com/finned-garage-find-1959-cadillac-convertible/> 
appeared first on Barn Finds <http://www.barnfinds.com>.

Read more at barnfinds.com
<http://www.barnfinds.com/finned-garage-find-1959-cadillac-convertible/>
Click here to subscribe <http://www.barnfinds.com/subscribe/> or 
change frequency of updates.
1448 O'Dell Court, Sheridan, WY 82801, USA
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