From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  9 13:12:14 2013
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From: "Gene" <crownwheel@comcast.net>
To: <Mg-t@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2013 15:11:33 -0400
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Subject: [Mg-t] TF For sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List, FYI . . 

I have not personal interest in this car and the usual disclaimers apply.

Gene 

 

I have 2 MGTF cars and would like to find a good home for one. It is a very
early 1250 serial # 0609. Older restoration that has held up really well.
Red with tan interior. I don't know much about the history of the car except
that the previous owner passed away in 2012 and the car was last inspected
5/2011. The paint and body are at least a 9 out of 10. I know the engine was
rebuilt because it got a new cam and I have the spec sheet on that. I think
the restoration was pretty darn thorough and was likely in the late 90's.

The interior is a 9.5/10. The chrome is close to perfect and it has
desirable chrome wire wheels. It needs a new top, some brake work and a
minor repair to the right front fender but it is a car that you could be
proud to display at a car show. Price is variable depending on if I sort it
out or someone takes it and does the work themselves. This is definitely a
nice TF if you know of someone looking for one.

Brett

 

Brett E. Wright

President

Wright Construction Co., Inc.

802-259-2094 Phone

802-259-2689 Fax

Brett Wright [BWright@wrightconstruction.com]
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 12:42:26 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 13:42:13 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] (Not) gone but probably forgotten
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

I got back in the garage today and did a bit more work on the TD. This is
the first time I've worked on the car in a week, or two. Been busy
elsewhere.

Last weekend I had a great time at the Radnor Hunt Concours, just west of
Philadelphia. I didn't post this info in advance because, well, one just
doesn't announce that their home will be vacant for a week.  And yes, I
trust you car guys but nothing posted on the Internet is private. Its ALL
public domain from the moment the 'enter' key hits bottom.

Anyway, today was fun. I cleaned the frame further forward and just onto
the cross-member, on the right side. I then painted it. Once dry, I
installed the new starter.

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130912_100753.jpg

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130912_100813.jpg

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130912_100823.jpg

I next cleaned and refinished the clutch linkage.

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130912_103953.jpg

The bolt loosely threaded into the housing is for the ground strap. I've
left this bolt loose to remind me to re-install the strap.

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130912_104004.jpg

Sorry for the soft focus. And while the paint was curing on the clutch, I
installed a new oil filter element into the refinished filter body.

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130912_103658.jpg

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130912_103900.jpg

I then cleaned and refinished the front body tub upright, plus the
stabilizing rod.

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130912_124706.jpg

The fuel line needs to be touched up where it is attached to the upright.

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130912_130405.jpg

Tomorrow I hope to finish the left side upright and frame, up onto the
cross-member. I'm REALLY close to setting the head. That's a special moment!

Happy to be home!

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 14:33:23 2013
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500
Thread-index: Ac6v9riXZ+Y1VUmATgOQzGTUpy/4nwAAKOJg
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main
on the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy
for this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to
fit some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end is
tight and there are no other real issues here.
 
Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
 
Many thanks,
Bill
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 14:58:17 2013
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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 13:56:42 -0700
References: <062A133E8C6B4B4E9CFCB6E88B5FC7EF@bboffice>
To: <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Just make sure that the rear main cork gasket fits inside the groove on the
rear main cap.
No protrusions. No gasket cement used to hold the cork in the groove.
Apply an amount of silicone gasket maker where the cork seal mates with the
oil pan gaskets.
That's the simple way.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 12, 2013, at 1:33 PM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main
> on the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy
> for this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to
> fit some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end
is
> tight and there are no other real issues here.
>
> Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
> on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
>
> Many thanks,
> Bill
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 17:51:40 2013
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 23:50:00 GMT
To: wbeech@flash.net
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

  If the leak is really bad, it indicates probable wear on the scroll and the
little shield.
  If one can tolerate quarter to half-dollar drip spots, the original seal
will do.
  In our club, six or eight owners have tried the improved seal. Half are
happy and half are not. I used the original seal type, and have no regrets.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500

Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main
on the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy
for this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to
fit some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end is
tight and there are no other real issues here.

Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?

Many thanks,
Bill
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 19:19:32 2013
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References: <20130912.195000.12374.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 20:13:14 -0500
To: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Parked for 20 min, puddle is 6" in diameter.   At idle it almost flows, at
higher revs it slows noticeably.

By "Improved Seal" are you referring to the $235.00 kit sold by Moss?

Thanks,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 12, 2013, at 11:50 PM, "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com> wrote:

>  If the leak is really bad, it indicates probable wear on the scroll and the
little shield.
>  If one can tolerate quarter to half-dollar drip spots, the original seal
will do.
>  In our club, six or eight owners have tried the improved seal. Half are
happy and half are not. I used the original seal type, and have no regrets.
> Bob
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: <wbeech@flash.net>
> To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
> Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500
>
> Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main
> on the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy
> for this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to
> fit some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end
is
> tight and there are no other real issues here.
>
> Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
> on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
>
> Many thanks,
> Bill
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 20:12:39 2013
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From: "ImOZ" <ImOZ@columbus.rr.com>
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 22:12:43 -0400
Thread-index: Ac6wIuBptsxEkWL4Soe+bH8MDmJWKQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Mg-t] Petrol Screen Filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers, 

 

Recently my TF suddenly would not start.  After much electrical system
trouble shooting, I found there was little or no gas getting to the carbs.  

 

The gas tank and fuel lines were reinstalled during restoration without the
mesh screen that protects against debris.  In lieu of that, I cut the fuel
line and installed a modern, clear fuel filter.  

 

This seemed OK until recently.  Significant debris had accumulated in the
filter.  Not a huge problem, I changed the filter.  

 

However, no fuel would enter the line.  I siphoned the fuel from the tank
(or most of it), and removed the fitting at the bottom of the tank.  

 

By means foul or fair, a small round soft ball the consistency of rubber
cement rubbed off one's fingers had caught in the fitting exiting the tank,
blocking the flow of fuel.  

 

I found several others like it when the last gush of petrol exited the tank
into my catch-pan.  I tried cleaning the tank as best I could in situ, and
then hoped there were no more.  

 

Sorry, too bad, the engine choked about 25 miles later, and had to be towed
home.  I presume another little rubbery ball has blocked the orifice to the
fuel line.  

 

I would be grateful for any advice on how to assure the tank is totally rid
of such debris.  

 

But for the rest of the season, I would prefer to get a new screen brazed
onto the brass fitting, or even better, procure a fitting intact with screen
filter.  I see that it is not available from Moss.  

 

Can anyone refer me to a source for that bit, or offer advice on procuring
and fastening a substitute screen?  I believe such an arrangement will block
any further foreign matter left in the tank until I can properly treat the
inside of the tank.  

 

Thank you in advance for your advice.  

 

Dan

54 TF
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 20:28:08 2013
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To: "=?utf-8?B?bWdib2JAanVuby5jb20=?=" <mgbob@juno.com>,wbeech@flash.net
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 21:27:58 -0500
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Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?TD_Engine_Pull?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

You can get good results with a process / procedure using JB Weld to build the worn area up to match the Archimedes screw.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
To: <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Date: Thu, Sep 12, 2013 6:50 pm


  If the leak is really bad, it indicates probable wear on the scroll and the
little shield.
  If one can tolerate quarter to half-dollar drip spots, the original seal
will do.
  In our club, six or eight owners have tried the improved seal. Half are
happy and half are not. I used the original seal type, and have no regrets.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500

Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main
on the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy
for this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to
fit some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end is
tight and there are no other real issues here.

Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?

Many thanks,
Bill
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 22:43:53 2013
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From: "Clive Sherriff" <clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com>
To: "WBEECH" <wbeech@flash.net>, <mgbob@juno.com>
References: <20130912.195000.12374.3@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com>
	<0CC33A8A-D208-4885-86D7-E99D2F060D78@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 05:43:49 +0100
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull Rear Oil Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

The poor old much maligned rear crank oil seal (perfectly OK if fitted 
properly !) is often not the cause of a heavy leak into the bell housing.

This level of leak could mean that there is a leak from either the core plug 
at the back of the cam, or somewhat less likely, the blanking screw at the 
rear of the oil gallery.

I'm assuming you are leaking engine oil, not gearbox oil !

Clive
Oxford, UK
= =======================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "WBEECH" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <mgbob@juno.com>
Cc: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 2:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull


> Parked for 20 min, puddle is 6" in diameter.   At idle it almost flows, at
> higher revs it slows noticeably.
>
> By "Improved Seal" are you referring to the $235.00 kit sold by Moss?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 12, 2013, at 11:50 PM, "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com> wrote:
>
>>  If the leak is really bad, it indicates probable wear on the scroll and 
>> the
> little shield.
>>  If one can tolerate quarter to half-dollar drip spots, the original seal
> will do.
>>  In our club, six or eight owners have tried the improved seal. Half are
> happy and half are not. I used the original seal type, and have no 
> regrets.
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>> From: <wbeech@flash.net>
>> To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
>> Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500
>>
>> Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear 
>> main
>> on the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best 
>> remedy
>> for this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank 
>> to
>> fit some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end
> is
>> tight and there are no other real issues here.
>>
>> Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
>> on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
>>
>> Many thanks,
>> Bill
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob@juno.com
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com
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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 05:39:40 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 06:39:30 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: ImOZ@columbus.rr.com, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Petrol Screen Filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Dan, a screen could be fabricated from bulk copper or brass screen wire, usually available at hardware stores. It has larger 'openings' but that's okay because you only want to trap the bigger stuff; the inline filter catching the fine debris. Both copper and brass can easily be soldered so you could make and install the new filter yourself at home. Hope this helps.B 

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.

-------- Original message --------
From: ImOZ <ImOZ@columbus.rr.com> 
Date: 09/12/2013  9:12 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: Mg-t@autox.team.net 
Subject: [Mg-t] Petrol Screen Filter 
 
Listers, 



Recently my TF suddenly would not start.B  After much electrical system
trouble shooting, I found there was little or no gas getting to the carbs.B  



The gas tank and fuel lines were reinstalled during restoration without the
mesh screen that protects against debris.B  In lieu of that, I cut the fuel
line and installed a modern, clear fuel filter.B  



This seemed OK until recently.B  Significant debris had accumulated in the
filter.B  Not a huge problem, I changed the filter.B  



However, no fuel would enter the line.B  I siphoned the fuel from the tank
(or most of it), and removed the fitting at the bottom of the tank.B  



By means foul or fair, a small round soft ball the consistency of rubber
cement rubbed off one's fingers had caught in the fitting exiting the tank,
blocking the flow of fuel.B  



I found several others like it when the last gush of petrol exited the tank
into my catch-pan.B  I tried cleaning the tank as best I could in situ, and
then hoped there were no more.B  



Sorry, too bad, the engine choked about 25 miles later, and had to be towed
home.B  I presume another little rubbery ball has blocked the orifice to the
fuel line.B  



I would be grateful for any advice on how to assure the tank is totally rid
of such debris.B  



But for the rest of the season, I would prefer to get a new screen brazed
onto the brass fitting, or even better, procure a fitting intact with screen
filter.B  I see that it is not available from Moss.B  



Can anyone refer me to a source for that bit, or offer advice on procuring
and fastening a substitute screen?B  I believe such an arrangement will block
any further foreign matter left in the tank until I can properly treat the
inside of the tank.B  



Thank you in advance for your advice.B  



Dan

54 TF
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 06:06:02 2013
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 11:59:31 GMT
To: wbeech@flash.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

  That is, to me, a bad leak. A Moss improved seal might be the answer for
you.
  Our rear seals rely on a rather precise fitting of seal to crank to scroll
to scraper. Ours are thee main bearing crankshafts, so there is a slight
tendency to wobble. When the rear bearing wears, the wobble increases, and the
movement wears scraper and scroll. Some have found, also, that the crankshaft
centerline is slightly misaligned with the seal.
   My suggestion(s) remove the sump and have a look. You may find the the cork
was cut short, or the little tabs on the gasket were cut off at its
installation. Shake the crankshaft. It's not likely that you will feel any
movement, but if you do, it changes the approach.
    If you see an issue with installation of the seal, just clean it up and
replace; they worked well for thousands of engines for many years and miles.
   If the crank is loose, or oil pressure has been dismal, its time for main
bearings, which is engine out of car. That would give opportunity to measure
the engine and for machine shop to line hone if necessary. It would be
opportunity for the Moss seal too.
    Some have had great success with them, others not. I suspect that the
engine has to be in good order for any seal to work properly, but that the
Moss seal might be a bit more forgiving. Getting the scroll and scraper right
is something to do in either choice.
   Whatever, do remember to keep the jiggling split pin loose in the drain
hole. I have seen a few removed and, in one car, the hole filled.
Bob



---------- Original Message ----------
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 20:13:14 -0500

Parked for 20 min, puddle is 6" in diameter.   At idle it almost flows, at
higher revs it slows noticeably.

By "Improved Seal" are you referring to the $235.00 kit sold by Moss?

Thanks,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 12, 2013, at 11:50 PM, "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com> wrote:

>  If the leak is really bad, it indicates probable wear on the scroll and the
little shield.
>  If one can tolerate quarter to half-dollar drip spots, the original seal
will do.
>  In our club, six or eight owners have tried the improved seal. Half are
happy and half are not. I used the original seal type, and have no regrets.
> Bob
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: <wbeech@flash.net>
> To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
> Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500
>
> Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main
> on the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy
> for this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to
> fit some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end
is
> tight and there are no other real issues here.
>
> Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
> on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
>
> Many thanks,
> Bill
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob@juno.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 06:36:58 2013
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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 05:35:47 -0700
Cc: MG-T Group <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <20130913022812.3FC024040D@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

You can do that, but that requires the engine out of the car, to apply JB-Weld
to the oil thrower cap.
In the car, that cap is on the other side of the crankshaft.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 12, 2013, at 7:27 PM, spook01@comcast.net wrote:

> You can get good results with a process / procedure using JB Weld to build
the worn area up to match the Archimedes screw.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: <wbeech@flash.net>
> To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
> Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500
>
> Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main
> on the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy
> for this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to
> fit some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end
is
> tight and there are no other real issues here.
>
> Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
> on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
>
> Many thanks,
> Bill
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob@juno.com
> ______________________________________________
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 06:52:31 2013
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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 05:51:25 -0700
Cc: MG-T Group <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <o3ltem6eg8ja600yi7dbfuy4.1379072370044@email.android.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Petrol Screen Filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

McMaster-Carr sells the screen, as a roll, with an end. You just have to
figure out what size diameter
that you require.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#

John Seim
Irvine, CA

> -------- Original message --------
> From: ImOZ <ImOZ@columbus.rr.com>
> Date: 09/12/2013  9:12 PM  (GMT-06:00)
> To: Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mg-t] Petrol Screen Filter
>
> Listers,
>
> Recently my TF suddenly would not start.  After much electrical system
> trouble shooting, I found there was little or no gas getting to the carbs.
>
> The gas tank and fuel lines were reinstalled during restoration without the
> mesh screen that protects against debris. In lieu of that, I cut the fuel
> line and installed a modern, clear fuel filter.
>
> This seemed OK until recently.B  Significant debris had accumulated in the
> filter.  Not a huge problem, I changed the filter.
>
> However, no fuel would enter the line.  I siphoned the fuel from the tank
> (or most of it), and removed the fitting at the bottom of the tank.
>
> By means foul or fair, a small round soft ball the consistency of rubber
> cement rubbed off one's fingers had caught in the fitting exiting the tank,
> blocking the flow of fuel.
>
> I found several others like it when the last gush of petrol exited the tank
> into my catch-pan. I tried cleaning the tank as best I could in situ, and
> then hoped there were no more.
>
> Sorry, too bad, the engine choked about 25 miles later, and had to be towed
> home. I presume another little rubbery ball has blocked the orifice to the
> fuel line.
>
> I would be grateful for any advice on how to assure the tank is totally rid
> of such debris.
>
> But for the rest of the season, I would prefer to get a new screen brazed
> onto the brass fitting, or even better, procure a fitting intact with
screen
> filter. I see that it is not available from Moss.
>
> Can anyone refer me to a source for that bit, or offer advice on procuring
> and fastening a substitute screen? I believe such an arrangement will block
> any further foreign matter left in the tank until I can properly treat the
> inside of the tank.
>
> Thank you in advance for your advice.
>
> Dan
> 54 TF
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/richardolindsay@gmail.com
______________________________________________

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	<0CC33A8A-D208-4885-86D7-E99D2F060D78@flash.net>
	<F5B1C84803154712943870F5402CE750@cypress>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 08:33:31 -0500
To: Clive Sherriff <clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com>
Cc: "<mg-t@autox.team.net>" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull Rear Oil Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Definitely engine oil, will check all of these when I get it out.

Thx,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 12, 2013, at 11:43 PM, "Clive Sherriff" <clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

> Bob,
>
> The poor old much maligned rear crank oil seal (perfectly OK if fitted
properly !) is often not the cause of a heavy leak into the bell housing.
>
> This level of leak could mean that there is a leak from either the core plug
at the back of the cam, or somewhat less likely, the blanking screw at the
rear of the oil gallery.
>
> I'm assuming you are leaking engine oil, not gearbox oil !
>
> Clive
> Oxford, UK
> = =======================
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "WBEECH" <wbeech@flash.net>
> To: <mgbob@juno.com>
> Cc: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 2:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
>
>
>> Parked for 20 min, puddle is 6" in diameter.   At idle it almost flows, at
>> higher revs it slows noticeably.
>>
>> By "Improved Seal" are you referring to the $235.00 kit sold by Moss?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 12, 2013, at 11:50 PM, "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com> wrote:
>>
>>> If the leak is really bad, it indicates probable wear on the scroll and
the
>> little shield.
>>> If one can tolerate quarter to half-dollar drip spots, the original seal
>> will do.
>>> In our club, six or eight owners have tried the improved seal. Half are
>> happy and half are not. I used the original seal type, and have no
regrets.
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> ---------- Original Message ----------
>>> From: <wbeech@flash.net>
>>> To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
>>> Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500
>>>
>>> Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear
main
>>> on the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best
remedy
>>> for this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank
to
>>> fit some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end
>> is
>>> tight and there are no other real issues here.
>>>
>>> Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
>>> on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
>>>
>>> Many thanks,
>>> Bill
>>> ______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/mgbob@juno.com
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 07:43:42 2013
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?lawrie?=" <lawrie@britcars.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?B?UmljayBMaW5kc2F5?= <richardolindsay@gmail.com>,
	=?iso-8859-1?B?IiI=?= <ImOZ@columbus.rr.com>, =?iso-8859-1?B?IiI=?=
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 05:43:36 -0800
References: <o3ltem6eg8ja600yi7dbfuy4.1379072370044@email.android.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] =?iso-8859-1?q?Petrol_Screen_Filter?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

But why on earth go to all that trouble when Moss does sell a new adapter with correct mesh screen installed already for only $26.95? Moss part number 376-665.

Lawrie


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
>  To: ImOZ@columbus.rr.com, mg-t@autox.team.net
>  Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Petrol Screen Filter
>  Sent: 13 Sep '13 03:39
>  
>  Dan, a screen could be fabricated from bulk copper or brass screen wire, usually available at hardware stores. It has larger 'openings' but that's okay because you only want to trap the bigger stuff; the inline filter catching the fine debris. Both copper and brass can easily be soldered so you could make and install the new filter yourself at home. Hope this helps.B
>  
>  -rick
>  Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.
>  
>  -------- Original message --------
>  From: ImOZ <ImOZ@columbus.rr.com>
>  Date: 09/12/2013  9:12 PM  (GMT-06:00)
>  To: Mg-t@autox.team.net
>  Subject: [Mg-t] Petrol Screen Filter
>  
>  Listers,
>  
>  
>  
>  Recently my TF suddenly would not start.B  After much electrical system
>  trouble shooting, I found there was little or no gas getting to the carbs.B  
>  
>  
>  
>  The gas tank and fuel lines were reinstalled during restoration without the
>  mesh screen that protects against debris.B  In lieu of that, I cut the fuel
>  line and installed a modern, clear fuel filter.B  
>  
>  
>  
>  This seemed OK until recently.B  Significant debris had accumulated in the
>  filter.B  Not a huge problem, I changed the filter.B  
>  
>  
>  
>  However, no fuel would enter the line.B  I siphoned the fuel from the tank
>  (or most of it), and removed the fitting at the bottom of the tank.B  
>  
>  
>  
>  By means foul or fair, a small round soft ball the consistency of rubber
>  cement rubbed off one's fingers had caught in the fitting exiting the tank,
>  blocking the flow of fuel.B  
>  
>  
>  
>  I found several others like it when the last gush of petrol exited the tank
>  into my catch-pan.B  I tried cleaning the tank as best I could in situ, and
>  then hoped there were no more.B  
>  
>  
>  
>  Sorry, too bad, the engine choked about 25 miles later, and had to be towed
>  home.B  I presume another little rubbery ball has blocked the orifice to the
>  fuel line.B  
>  
>  
>  
>  I would be grateful for any advice on how to assure the tank is totally rid
>  of such debris.B  
>  
>  
>  
>  But for the rest of the season, I would prefer to get a new screen brazed
>  onto the brass fitting, or even better, procure a fitting intact with screen
>  filter.B  I see that it is not available from Moss.B  
>  
>  
>  
>  Can anyone refer me to a source for that bit, or offer advice on procuring
>  and fastening a substitute screen?B  I believe such an arrangement will block
>  any further foreign matter left in the tank until I can properly treat the
>  inside of the tank.B  
>  
>  
>  
>  Thank you in advance for your advice.B  
>  
>  
>  
>  Dan
>  
>  54 TF
>  ______________________________________________
>  
>  Mg-t@autox.team.net
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Suggested annual donationB  $11.47
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/richardolindsay@gmail.com
>  ______________________________________________
>  
>  Mg-t@autox.team.net
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lawrie@britcars.com
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Cc: mg-t <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull Rear Oil Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill, 



I vote for taking a look at that rear oil gallery plug as well as the cam core plug. After removing and replacing a newly rebuilt engine a couple of times, trying to fix what I thought to be a leaking rear seal, I reinstalled the engine w/o the gearbox (maybe w/o the flywheel, it was 30 years ago!), started the engine and found the gallery plug to be the culprit. Thereafter, I always sealed those threads! 



Ed Woods 
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 14 10:00:16 2013
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2013 08:00:50 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: tr3a@yahoogroups.com, mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Autumn
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,B 

My recent trip to Philadelphia reminded me that autumn is just around the corner, although at 93 degrees here in Houston, you couldn't prove it by me!B 

Autumn is my favorite season, B especially in the early morning when there's 'frost on the pumpkin'. Great driving weather, especially in an open sports car, all bundled up with jacket, scarf, cap and gloves. I especially like the country roads strewn with colored leaves - to be avoided when wet and breaking with skinny tires.B 

Sports car engines love oxygen-rich cold, dense air. It seems to make them come alive. There's just something special about a perfectly purring engine under a blue sky and bright sun, with white exhaust steam condensing in the cold air.

But alas, there are very few of those days here on the south coast. Still, one can drive, top down, all winter long. Not a bad trade off, I guess.

-rick, waxing poetically this morning
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 14 11:59:39 2013
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From: "ImOZ" <ImOZ@columbus.rr.com>
To: "'MG-T Group'" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <o3ltem6eg8ja600yi7dbfuy4.1379072370044@email.android.com>
	<0C57F950-FA4E-46CC-A80E-4175EB29DB83@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2013 09:54:50 -0400
Thread-Index: AQJV0GNxkUUrDc6Pxtetj7E9KNoBwAF/i20umKsGG2A=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Petrol Screen Filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you for the several quick and excellent replies.  As always, this list
is invaluable.  

Dan


> Subject: [Mg-t] Petrol Screen Filter
>
> Listers,
>
>
> Can anyone refer me to a source for that bit, or offer advice on 
> procuring and fastening a substitute screen? I believe such an 
> arrangement will block any further foreign matter left in the tank 
> until I can properly treat the inside of the tank.
>
> Thank you in advance for your advice.
>
> Dan
> 54 TF
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donationB  
> $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/richardolindsay@gmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/imoz@columbus.rr.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 14 19:43:07 2013
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2013 18:00:14 -0500
From: "gunnellj tds.net" <gunnellj@tds.net>
To: "Mg-t@autox.team.net" <Mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Racing question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

A friend did some damage to the engine in his MG TF engine at Road America
last week. He wants to go faster and is considering a swap to a Ford V8-60
engine. The T Series cars race in the prewar class. So he has to come up
with proof that a V8-60 was installed in an MG racing car before World War
II. Can any cite such proof?


John Gunnell
Iola, WI

-- 

"Gunner"

John Gunnell
PO Box 87
Iola, WI 54945
Ph: 715-445-4262
Cell: 715-281-5925

LIVIN' THE DREAM

Please visit Gunner's Great Garage

Restoration Shop - Automotive Book Shop - Art Gallery

E6110 Fuhs Rd, Manawa, WI 54949

Cell: 715-281-5925 (anytime)

Take A Slide Show Tour of the Shop at www.gunnersgreatgarage.com

Check my blog Gunner's Garage at www.oldcarsweekly.com

Publications and Websites I Contribute To: Old Cars Weekly, Old Cars
Restoration Guide, For Vettes Only, Amos Auto Enthusiast Weekly (digital),
Auto Enthusiast (print), Towing & Recovery Footnotes, Auto Restorer, Hot
Rod Hotline, Engine Builder, Hot Rod & Restoration, Keith Martin's Sports
Car Market, Vintage Truck, Vette Vues, Free Riders Press, Second Chance
Garage, Garage Style, Ol Skool Rodz, Car Kulture Deluxe, Gunner's Great
Garage News (blog), Gunner's Garage (blog), Super Chevy, Muscle Car Review,
Smoke Signals, Pontiac Registry (Website), Classic Motorsports, Keith
Martin's American Car Collector, Gearhead News, Keith Larsen Show Newstalk
1110 / WBLT Radio Charlotte, N.C., Muzzy Broadcasting System's Legends of
Country B-104.9 Stevens Point WI & Occasional Others.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 15 03:43:20 2013
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From: "Clive Sherriff" <clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com>
To: "gunnellj tds.net" <gunnellj@tds.net>, <Mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <CAL+NFWdexxXsDqRQLg+3G3RcuXbB-xVUWLPRRHo-H4Y4tycxDA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 08:55:16 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Racing question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hopefully Not !  <G>

Clive
Oxford, UK
= =============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "gunnellj tds.net" <gunnellj@tds.net>
To: <Mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 12:00 AM
Subject: [Mg-t] Racing question


>A friend did some damage to the engine in his MG TF engine at Road America
> last week. He wants to go faster and is considering a swap to a Ford V8-60
> engine. The T Series cars race in the prewar class. So he has to come up
> with proof that a V8-60 was installed in an MG racing car before World War
> II. Can any cite such proof?
>
>
> John Gunnell
> Iola, WI
>
> -- 
>
> "Gunner"
>
> John Gunnell
> PO Box 87
> Iola, WI 54945
> Ph: 715-445-4262
> Cell: 715-281-5925
>
> LIVIN' THE DREAM
>
> Please visit Gunner's Great Garage
>
> Restoration Shop - Automotive Book Shop - Art Gallery
>
> E6110 Fuhs Rd, Manawa, WI 54949
>
> Cell: 715-281-5925 (anytime)
>
> Take A Slide Show Tour of the Shop at www.gunnersgreatgarage.com
>
> Check my blog Gunner's Garage at www.oldcarsweekly.com
>
> Publications and Websites I Contribute To: Old Cars Weekly, Old Cars
> Restoration Guide, For Vettes Only, Amos Auto Enthusiast Weekly (digital),
> Auto Enthusiast (print), Towing & Recovery Footnotes, Auto Restorer, Hot
> Rod Hotline, Engine Builder, Hot Rod & Restoration, Keith Martin's Sports
> Car Market, Vintage Truck, Vette Vues, Free Riders Press, Second Chance
> Garage, Garage Style, Ol Skool Rodz, Car Kulture Deluxe, Gunner's Great
> Garage News (blog), Gunner's Garage (blog), Super Chevy, Muscle Car 
> Review,
> Smoke Signals, Pontiac Registry (Website), Classic Motorsports, Keith
> Martin's American Car Collector, Gearhead News, Keith Larsen Show Newstalk
> 1110 / WBLT Radio Charlotte, N.C., Muzzy Broadcasting System's Legends of
> Country B-104.9 Stevens Point WI & Occasional Others.
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 15 07:21:09 2013
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From: Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>
To: "wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net"
	<mg-t@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Thread-Index: Ac6yAwAbyxo0ZfjPTye4FIFxCWC2Rw==
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 11:05:09 +0000
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and installing the
Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is coming
from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the crankshaft
installed?

Ronald Olds
Sales Manager
Plasser American Corporation
PO Box 5464
2001 Myers Road
Chesapeake, VA 23324-0464
 
Phone  (757) 543-3526
Cell      (630) 240-0818
Fax      (757) 494-7186 
 
The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may be
proprietary, privileged or confidential and is intended solely for the use of
the addressee. Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or any other such use
is strictly prohibited. Furthermore, any reviews, dissemination or copying by
anyone other than the intended recipient is expressly prohibited. If you have
received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender and destroy all copies
of the original transmittal.

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of wbeech@flash.net
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2013 4:34 PM
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull

Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main on
the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy for
this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to fit
some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end is tight
and there are no other real issues here.

Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource, on-line,
to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?

Many thanks,
Bill
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/rolds@plausa.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 15 09:05:36 2013
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To: Mg-t@autox.team.net
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 07:33:39 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] =?utf-8?q?Racing_question?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

For enough money I can "document" it for him.  All the way up to the rare 1951 454 chevy!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Clive Sherriff" <clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com>
To: "gunnellj tds.net" <gunnellj@tds.net>, <Mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Racing question
Date: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 2:55 am


Hopefully Not !  <G>

Clive
Oxford, UK
= =============================
----- Original Message ----- From: "gunnellj tds.net" <gunnellj@tds.net>
To: <Mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 12:00 AM
Subject: [Mg-t] Racing question


>A friend did some damage to the engine in his MG TF engine at Road America
> last week. He wants to go faster and is considering a swap to a Ford V8-60
> engine. The T Series cars race in the prewar class. So he has to come up
> with proof that a V8-60 was installed in an MG racing car before World War
> II. Can any cite such proof?
>
>
> John Gunnell
> Iola, WI
>
> -- >
> "Gunner"
>
> John Gunnell
> PO Box 87
> Iola, WI 54945
> Ph: 715-445-4262
> Cell: 715-281-5925
>
> LIVIN' THE DREAM
>
> Please visit Gunner's Great Garage
>
> Restoration Shop - Automotive Book Shop - Art Gallery
>
> E6110 Fuhs Rd, Manawa, WI 54949
>
> Cell: 715-281-5925 (anytime)
>
> Take A Slide Show Tour of the Shop at www.gunnersgreatgarage.com
>
> Check my blog Gunner's Garage at www.oldcarsweekly.com
>
> Publications and Websites I Contribute To: Old Cars Weekly, Old Cars
> Restoration Guide, For Vettes Only, Amos Auto Enthusiast Weekly (digital),
> Auto Enthusiast (print), Towing & Recovery Footnotes, Auto Restorer, Hot
> Rod Hotline, Engine Builder, Hot Rod & Restoration, Keith Martin's Sports
> Car Market, Vintage Truck, Vette Vues, Free Riders Press, Second Chance
> Garage, Garage Style, Ol Skool Rodz, Car Kulture Deluxe, Gunner's Great
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> Smoke Signals, Pontiac Registry (Website), Classic Motorsports, Keith
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> ______________________________________________
>
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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 15 09:07:38 2013
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 08:59:46 -0400
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
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To: mg-t@autox.team.net
References: <CAL+NFWdexxXsDqRQLg+3G3RcuXbB-xVUWLPRRHo-H4Y4tycxDA@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Racing question
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

John, those are some crazy rules since the car itself is close to ten 
years after WW II.  My impression was that they put T series cars in the 
prewar class because they are relatively slow compared to many of their 
contemporaries, or the specific driver's skill level makes him and his 
car a good match for the prewar cars.
On 9/14/2013 7:00 PM, gunnellj tds.net wrote:
> A friend did some damage to the engine in his MG TF engine at Road America
> last week. He wants to go faster and is considering a swap to a Ford V8-60
> engine. The T Series cars race in the prewar class. So he has to come up
> with proof that a V8-60 was installed in an MG racing car before World War
> II. Can any cite such proof?
>
>
> John Gunnell
> Iola, WI
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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 15 10:40:35 2013
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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 06:30:57 -0700
References: <D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E5920BD482@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>
To: Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>
Cc: MG-T Group <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

With the oil pan removed, yes.
There are two tapered pins, that you need to pull out. They, along with four
bolts, secure the flywheel to the crankshaft.
Look to see if the flywheel has been contacting the seal.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 15, 2013, at 4:05 AM, Ron Olds wrote:

> I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and installing
the
> Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is
coming
> from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the
crankshaft
> installed?
>
> Ronald Olds
> Sales Manager
> Plasser American Corporation
> PO Box 5464
> 2001 Myers Road
> Chesapeake, VA 23324-0464
>
> Phone  (757) 543-3526
> Cell      (630) 240-0818
> Fax      (757) 494-7186
>
> The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may be
> proprietary, privileged or confidential and is intended solely for the use
of
> the addressee. Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or any other such
use
> is strictly prohibited. Furthermore, any reviews, dissemination or copying
by
> anyone other than the intended recipient is expressly prohibited. If you
have
> received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender and destroy all
copies
> of the original transmittal.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of wbeech@flash.net
> Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2013 4:34 PM
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
>
> Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main
on
> the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy for
> this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to fit
> some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end is
tight
> and there are no other real issues here.
>
> Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
on-line,
> to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
>
> Many thanks,
> Bill
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/rolds@plausa.com
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 15 10:43:55 2013
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?lawrie?=" <lawrie@britcars.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?B?Um9uIE9sZHM=?= <rolds@plausa.com>,
	=?iso-8859-1?B?d2JlZWNoQGZsYXNoLm5ldA==?= <wbeech@flash.net>,
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 05:52:13 -0800
References: <D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E5920BD482@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] =?iso-8859-1?q?TD_Engine_Pull?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

With difficulty, Ron, (you have to beat it backwards with a heavy plastic hammer to get the drive pins free of the crank flange), but remember you also have to remove the oil pan. 

Lawrie 

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>
>  To: wbeech@flash.net <wbeech@flash.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net <mg-t@autox.team.net>
>  Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
>  Sent: 15 Sep '13 03:05
>  
>  I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and installing the
>  Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is coming
>  from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the crankshaft
>  installed?
>  
>  Ronald Olds
>  Sales Manager
>  Plasser American Corporation
>  PO Box 5464
>  2001 Myers Road
>  Chesapeake, VA 23324-0464
>  
>  Phone  (757) 543-3526
>  Cell      (630) 240-0818
>  Fax      (757) 494-7186
>  
>  The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may be
>  proprietary, privileged or confidential and is intended solely for the use of
>  the addressee. Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or any other such use
>  is strictly prohibited. Furthermore, any reviews, dissemination or copying by
>  anyone other than the intended recipient is expressly prohibited. If you have
>  received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender and destroy all copies
>  of the original transmittal.
>  
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
>  Behalf Of wbeech@flash.net
>  Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2013 4:34 PM
>  To: mg-t@autox.team.net
>  Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
>  
>  Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main on
>  the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy for
>  this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to fit
>  some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end is tight
>  and there are no other real issues here.
>  
>  Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource, on-line,
>  to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
>  
>  Many thanks,
>  Bill
>  ______________________________________________
>  
>  Mg-t@autox.team.net
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/rolds@plausa.com
>  ______________________________________________
>  
>  Mg-t@autox.team.net
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From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 15 18:48:14 2013
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From: "Clive Sherriff" <clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com>
To: "John Seim" <kingseim@earthlink.net>, "Ron Olds" <rolds@plausa.com>
References: <D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E5920BD482@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>
	<E98034CE-B60F-4744-B6A5-3CB6FECE9974@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 23:55:21 +0100
Cc: MG-T Group <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Do not wory about the pins, they are only for location and do not secure the 
flywheel

Clive
= ==========================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Seim" <kingseim@earthlink.net>
To: "Ron Olds" <rolds@plausa.com>
Cc: "MG-T Group" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull


> With the oil pan removed, yes.
> There are two tapered pins, that you need to pull out. They, along with 
> four
> bolts, secure the flywheel to the crankshaft.
> Look to see if the flywheel has been contacting the seal.
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA
>
> On Sep 15, 2013, at 4:05 AM, Ron Olds wrote:
>
>> I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and 
>> installing
> the
>> Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is
> coming
>> from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the
> crankshaft
>> installed?
>>
>> Ronald Olds
>> Sales Manager
>> Plasser American Corporation
>> PO Box 5464
>> 2001 Myers Road
>> Chesapeake, VA 23324-0464
>>
>> Phone  (757) 543-3526
>> Cell      (630) 240-0818
>> Fax      (757) 494-7186
>>
>> The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may be
>> proprietary, privileged or confidential and is intended solely for the 
>> use
> of
>> the addressee. Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or any other 
>> such
> use
>> is strictly prohibited. Furthermore, any reviews, dissemination or 
>> copying
> by
>> anyone other than the intended recipient is expressly prohibited. If you
> have
>> received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender and destroy all
> copies
>> of the original transmittal.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of wbeech@flash.net
>> Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2013 4:34 PM
>> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
>>
>> Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear 
>> main
> on
>> the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy 
>> for
>> this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to 
>> fit
>> some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end is
> tight
>> and there are no other real issues here.
>>
>> Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
> on-line,
>> to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
>>
>> Many thanks,
>> Bill
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/rolds@plausa.com
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 18:46:26 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Rack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

I seek knowledge. My '53 TD2's steering rack has been lubricated with grease, instead if oil. Should I try to disassemble and clean it or stick with the grease? Or add oil, thereby diluting the grease? This car will be used in warm/hot weather only. Advice appreciated.

Thanks,

-rick
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 16 07:05:51 2013
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2013 11:41:51 GMT
To: richardolindsay@gmail.com
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Rack
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
 Good news on this--according to Chip Olds, tech editor of TSO for years, it
doesn't matter.
  While I would use oil for for initial fill or topping up, if there is no
lash in the rack now, no harm has been done.
  1/3 pint is the prescribed initial fill amount.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Rack
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 18:46:26 -0500

Hello Friends,

I seek knowledge. My '53 TD2's steering rack has been lubricated with grease,
instead if oil. Should I try to disassemble and clean it or stick with the
grease? Or add oil, thereby diluting the grease? This car will be used in
warm/hot weather only. Advice appreciated.

Thanks,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 16 08:24:37 2013
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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2013 05:57:22 -0700
References: <vrp95gioxdfwed08upt3713l.1379288786237@email.android.com>
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, MG-T Group <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Rack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Add oil. The damage is already done. Chances are, one, if not both tie rod
swivel ends
could be loose, from lack of lubrication. They can be rebuild, through
disassembly, and
changing some shim thickness. With the car raised up, and moving front and
back one
front wheel at a time, listen for a click, or clunk sound. If you hear one,
that side requires
rebuilding. I have rebuild them on many cars.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 15, 2013, at 4:46 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> Hello Friends,
>
> I seek knowledge. My '53 TD2's steering rack has been lubricated with
grease, instead if oil. Should I try to disassemble and clean it or stick with
the grease? Or add oil, thereby diluting the grease? This car will be used in
warm/hot weather only. Advice appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 07:32:41 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Two-tone paint
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,B 

I intend to paint my '53 TD in a two-tone color scheme; Autumn Red tub, bonnet, tank and rear valence. I am, however, in a quandary about the front valence. Would it look better in red or black? The grill is Honey Tan to match the interior.B 

I'm leaning toward black so as to not make so much of a checker-board motif. You thoughts please?

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:55:18 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] TD - plug wire orientation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

We all know the XPAG's (like most all 4-cylinder L4 engines) firing
order is 1-3-4-2, rotating anti-clockwise, but what is the correct
plug wire orientation. From many of the pictures I see, the ideal
location is for #1 is to be at the lower left distributor post. And of
course, that can easily be achieved by aligning the distributor shaft
in that orientation with #1 at TDC.

However...how did M.G. align the rotor / plug wires? Anyone know? Any
factory pictures revealing the secret?

Thanks,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'John Seim'" <kingseim@earthlink.net>, "'Rick Lindsay'"
	<richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "'MG-T Group'" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <vrp95gioxdfwed08upt3713l.1379288786237@email.android.com>
	<3D4F94C0-5031-43E9-BCF5-243FD03A0435@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 09:41:33 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6y6LIR8DhkHrCXQDesAwKQUp3jOQAyaX9g
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Rack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

While the wheels seem to be tight, I can grebe the tie rod and shake it to
hear, and feel, a click/clunk.  Ends appear to be tight at the wheel.  Does
the whole rack need to come out for rebuilding?  Is this a shim adjustment?
Is it OK, as is?

Thanks,
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Seim
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 7:57 AM
To: Rick Lindsay; MG-T Group
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Rack

Add oil. The damage is already done. Chances are, one, if not both tie rod
swivel ends could be loose, from lack of lubrication. They can be rebuild,
through disassembly, and changing some shim thickness. With the car raised
up, and moving front and back one front wheel at a time, listen for a click,
or clunk sound. If you hear one, that side requires rebuilding. I have
rebuild them on many cars.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 15, 2013, at 4:46 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> Hello Friends,
>
> I seek knowledge. My '53 TD2's steering rack has been lubricated with
grease, instead if oil. Should I try to disassemble and clean it or stick
with the grease? Or add oil, thereby diluting the grease? This car will be
used in warm/hot weather only. Advice appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/wbeech@flash.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 17 08:50:46 2013
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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 07:47:04 -0700
References: <vrp95gioxdfwed08upt3713l.1379288786237@email.android.com>
	<3D4F94C0-5031-43E9-BCF5-243FD03A0435@earthlink.net>
	<F37D6AFAA3494416A863558E3B300D1A@bboffice>
To: <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: MG-T Group <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Rack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

It is a shim adjustment of the tie rod ball ends.
They are held to the steering rack, by a lock washer, that is peened
into the grooves of the ball sleeve. They are right handed, and unscrew
from the rack. Requires special service tools to properly open them up.

There is also a spring and plunger, under a cap, on the rack. Spring has
been in compression for 60+ years, so best to replace. Plunger is made
of brass, and is probably worn as well.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 17, 2013, at 7:41 AM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> While the wheels seem to be tight, I can grebe the tie rod and shake it to
> hear, and feel, a click/clunk.  Ends appear to be tight at the wheel.  Does
> the whole rack need to come out for rebuilding?  Is this a shim adjustment?
> Is it OK, as is?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of John Seim
> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 7:57 AM
> To: Rick Lindsay; MG-T Group
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Rack
>
> Add oil. The damage is already done. Chances are, one, if not both tie rod
> swivel ends could be loose, from lack of lubrication. They can be rebuild,
> through disassembly, and changing some shim thickness. With the car raised
> up, and moving front and back one front wheel at a time, listen for a
click,
> or clunk sound. If you hear one, that side requires rebuilding. I have
> rebuild them on many cars.
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA
>
> On Sep 15, 2013, at 4:46 PM, Rick Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Hello Friends,
>>
>> I seek knowledge. My '53 TD2's steering rack has been lubricated with
> grease, instead if oil. Should I try to disassemble and clean it or stick
> with the grease? Or add oil, thereby diluting the grease? This car will be
> used in warm/hot weather only. Advice appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -rick
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
>> $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/wbeech@flash.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 15:02:33 GMT
To: richardolindsay@gmail.com
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD - plug wire orientation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
   Illustration Fig C 19 shows the wire connection post at about five-five
thirty position.. The flat area of the distributor is not parallel to te
engine. Fig P 1 shows it also.
    My engine is out of the car now, and distributor cap & wires stored
separately, so I can't help with orientation of wires.
    XPAG distributors are gear driven, not with the offset drive plate used in
later MG engines. It may take several insertions of the distributor to get the
rotor aimed at the cap contact you want to use.
Bob




---------- Original Message ----------
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] TD - plug wire orientation
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:55:18 -0500

Hello Friends,

We all know the XPAG's (like most all 4-cylinder L4 engines) firing
order is 1-3-4-2, rotating anti-clockwise, but what is the correct
plug wire orientation. From many of the pictures I see, the ideal
location is for #1 is to be at the lower left distributor post. And of
course, that can easily be achieved by aligning the distributor shaft
in that orientation with #1 at TDC.

However...how did M.G. align the rotor / plug wires? Anyone know? Any
factory pictures revealing the secret?

Thanks,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>
To: Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Thread-Index: Ac6yAwAbyxo0ZfjPTye4FIFxCWC2RwCDutsQ
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 02:47:13 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you everyone for your input. I thought there wasn't room on the back of
the engine casting for the flywheel to come off the crankshaft.  From
everyone's input it can be removed.  I need to pull the transmission to get a
better idea of what is going on.

Ronald Olds

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ron Olds
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:05 AM
To: wbeech@flash.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull

I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and installing the
Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is coming
from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the crankshaft
installed?

Ronald Olds
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 18 07:54:07 2013
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From: BOB GRUNAU <grunau.garage@sympatico.ca>
To: "Ron Olds" <rolds@plausa.com>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 09:56:58 -0400
	FILETIME=[3BEF6B50:01CEB476]
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Ron,
Personally, I would pull the engine. Much easier to work on the bench then
inside the car trying to remove flywheel, seal up rear main and re-install
the sump.
.
Yes the flywheel can come off, after removing sump, clutch, flywheel bolts
and two alignment pins. Might be easier to remove pins if rear main cap is
off and a drift can be used to access the two tapered pins to tap them
backwards.

Small leak?? maybe live with it??
Bob, Canada
-


Thank you everyone for your input. I thought there wasn't room on the back
of
the engine casting for the flywheel to come off the crankshaft.  From
everyone's input it can be removed.  I need to pull the transmission to get
a
better idea of what is going on.

Ronald Olds


I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and installing
the
Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is coming
from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the
crankshaft
installed?

Ronald Olds
_
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <mailman.11.1379527202.18553.mg-t@autox.team.net>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] original or revised seal kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Ron,  Did you install the old or the revised Moss kit?

On Sep 18, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Ron Olds
> Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:05 AM
> To: wbeech@flash.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
>
> I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and installing
the
> Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is
coming
> from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the
crankshaft
> installed?
>
> Ronald Olds
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: John Deikis <johnsfolly@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 18:32:34 -0400
To: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Racing question
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

John:
two comments:
Your friend would be on firmer ground "proving" Americans were road racing
V8-powered TF's in the 50's (I believe they did TD's). He would then be
classed with other specials-- for vintage, usually dependent upon
performance.
Also, if your friend is from the Great Lakes area, he will likely do most of
his racing with VSCDA, which is a membership club and quite flexible. Entry
fees pay the bills, so the rule of the day is "let's be inclusive and all
play."
-- John Deikis

On Sep 15, 2013, at 8:59 AM, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote:

> John, those are some crazy rules since the car itself is close to ten years
after WW II.  My impression was that they put T series cars in the prewar
class because they are relatively slow compared to many of their
contemporaries, or the specific driver's skill level makes him and his car a
good match for the prewar cars.
> On 9/14/2013 7:00 PM, gunnellj tds.net wrote:
>> A friend did some damage to the engine in his MG TF engine at Road America
>> last week. He wants to go faster and is considering a swap to a Ford V8-60
>> engine. The T Series cars race in the prewar class. So he has to come up
>> with proof that a V8-60 was installed in an MG racing car before World War
>> II. Can any cite such proof?
>>
>>
>> John Gunnell
>> Iola, WI
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 17:48:49 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Reassembly re-started
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Going back together...a little bit at a time.

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130918_153623.jpg

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130918_153653.jpg

This weekend, I'll install the head.

I'll rebuild the suspension a little later.  I'm tired of getting filthy dirty.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 18 16:56:07 2013
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From: Murray Arundell <arundell@ghs.com.au>
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 08:55:46 +1000
To: John Deikis <johnsfolly@gmail.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Racing question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Your comment "let's be inclusive" is intetesting. Are you saying we should
include anyone and anything that wants to race?

Murray Arundell
Brisbane Australia


Sent from my iPhone

On 19/09/2013, at 8:32, John Deikis <johnsfolly@gmail.com> wrote:

> John:
> two comments:
> Your friend would be on firmer ground "proving" Americans were road racing
> V8-powered TF's in the 50's (I believe they did TD's). He would then be
> classed with other specials-- for vintage, usually dependent upon
> performance.
> Also, if your friend is from the Great Lakes area, he will likely do most
of
> his racing with VSCDA, which is a membership club and quite flexible. Entry
> fees pay the bills, so the rule of the day is "let's be inclusive and all
> play."
> -- John Deikis
>
> On Sep 15, 2013, at 8:59 AM, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> John, those are some crazy rules since the car itself is close to ten
years
> after WW II.  My impression was that they put T series cars in the prewar
> class because they are relatively slow compared to many of their
> contemporaries, or the specific driver's skill level makes him and his car
a
> good match for the prewar cars.
>> On 9/14/2013 7:00 PM, gunnellj tds.net wrote:
>>> A friend did some damage to the engine in his MG TF engine at Road
America
>>> last week. He wants to go faster and is considering a swap to a Ford
V8-60
>>> engine. The T Series cars race in the prewar class. So he has to come up
>>> with proof that a V8-60 was installed in an MG racing car before World
War
>>> II. Can any cite such proof?
>>>
>>>
>>> John Gunnell
>>> Iola, WI
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/johnsfolly@gmail.com
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/arundell@ghs.com.au
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 18 17:42:29 2013
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 18:41:59 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: raydiesel@verizon.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Reassembly re-started
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

> Looks good, there are a lot of dirty > days ahead ! .ray

B  Indeed. But a lot more behind me now!


-------- Original message --------
From: raydiesel@verizon.net 
Date: 09/18/2013  6:22 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: richardolindsay@gmail.com 
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Reassembly re-started 
 
B  B 
B 
On 09/18/13, Richard Lindsay<richardolindsay@gmail.com> wrote:
B 
Going back together...a little bit at a time.

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130918_153623.jpg

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20130918_153653.jpg

This weekend, I'll install the head.

I'll rebuild the suspension a little later. I'm tired of getting filthy dirty.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 19 01:34:23 2013
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Was working on a TC this afternoon with some running issues.  I was 
trying to avoid removing
the air filter bits, hoping it wasn't necessary.  Wondered if the carbs 
were close to balanced so
used the dashpot tubes with the wire pointer set up.

You know how you can lift the pistons just a hair to see if the carbs 
are rich or lean?  Using the
tubes I could lift the pistons about half an inch or so with minimal 
changes to the overly fast idle.

Wow.

There might be issues with the carbs.  Hope to get it sorted tomorrow.

mjb.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 20 06:46:21 2013
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 05:54:02 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
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Hey Friends,B 

Been trading txt messages with a friend in Singapore. He's sitting on Turn-1 watching F1 Free Practice. I'm so jealous!B 

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 20 06:55:11 2013
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 06:38:22 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Just verbal diarrhea
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Hi Friends,B 

Awake early and just jabbering with friends.B 

Today I 'may' find time to rotate the XPAG to TDC and using my dial gauge, verify that the timing pointer is spot on. B Assuming it is, and I can't imagine that it isn't ("Trust, but verify." seems popular again these days), I will be ready to rotate to #1-on-compression and set the head. Many of you have recommended that I very lightly grease the head gasket before installation. I will do so, I think, because the workshop manual also recommends this - although I don't know why. I've never installed a head gasket any way other than clean and dry. Do you know why its recommended to grease it?

My brother is in town visiting and he is as mechanically minded as a cheese sandwich. I don't expect much garage-interest from him. My weekend may not involve twisting spanners...but a guy can wish.

Happy Friday,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 20 23:17:47 2013
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Subject: [Mg-t] Team.Net planned improvements
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The last few days you may have noticed that it might take 2, 3, 4 or 
more hours for a simple
message to one of the Team.Net lists to get posted.  There have been 
some serious network
problems happening.

I'm hoping that will change soon.  On tuesday, Sep. 24th, a local 
Comcast contractor will be
installing broadband cable.  After 20+ years of DSL based networking, 
I'm going to give cable
a try.  There will be a few days of testing, setting up, getting the 
hang of it and such, but I
hope to have Team.Net running on a network that should be 5  - 10 times 
faster than the current
DSL service.

There will be periods of downtime during the switch, the IP addresses 
involved will be changing
and it takes time for these changes to propagate around the world. I'll 
provide more immediate
notice of service interruptions as they come up, try not to leave all 
you loyal subscribers hanging
for too long.

It should be a change for the better, we shall see.

mjb.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 20 23:25:36 2013
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The last few days you may have noticed that it might take 2, 3, 4 or 
more hours for a simple
message to one of the Team.Net lists to get posted.  There have been 
some serious network
problems happening.

I'm hoping that will change soon.  On tuesday, Sep. 24th, a local 
Comcast contractor will be
installing broadband cable.  After 20+ years of DSL based networking, 
I'm going to give cable
a try.  There will be a few days of testing, setting up, getting the 
hang of it and such, but I
hope to have Team.Net running on a network that should be 5  - 10 times 
faster than the current
DSL service.

There will be periods of downtime during the switch, the IP addresses 
involved will be changing
and it takes time for these changes to propagate around the world. I'll 
provide more immediate
notice of service interruptions as they come up, try not to leave all 
you loyal subscribers hanging
for too long.

It should be a change for the better, we shall see.

mjb.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 22 07:07:50 2013
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From: Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>
To: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mg-t] original or revised seal kit
Thread-Index: AQHOtJoFmRTmxc3uxUOtPFrO1CFWbJnRvAdw
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 12:55:58 +0000
References: <mailman.11.1379527202.18553.mg-t@autox.team.net>
	<19788CAF-CA28-4555-B49D-EB64C0389E3B@duvallvideo.com>
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Mike,

The seal kit I used appears to be the old Moss kit (part number 433-415). This
kit seems to be no longer available.  What was changed between this kit and
the new revised 433-421 kit?  Is the new kit better than the one I used?  Does
anyone know if the kit I have can be modified to make it the new style or I
would have to replace it completely?

Ronald Olds

Ronald Olds

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Duvall Video Productions
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 2:05 PM
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] original or revised seal kit

Ron,  Did you install the old or the revised Moss kit?

On Sep 18, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Ron Olds
> Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:05 AM
> To: wbeech@flash.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
>
> I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and
> installing
the
> Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is
coming
> from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the
crankshaft
> installed?
>
> Ronald Olds
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/rolds@plausa.com
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 22 07:22:19 2013
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From: Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mg-t@autox.team.net"
	<mg-t@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: TD - questions
Thread-Index: Ac63lM4KfGPN+xdfT82gKWtyxcBhlQ==
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 13:10:52 +0000
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Subject: [Mg-t] TD - questions
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Rick,

I have been following and enjoying your diary on the TD rebuilt.  I am very
impressed with the progress you made so far.  I wish I was working as fast as
you have.  I guess that is what retirement gets you.

I do have some questions on your work process.  What methods do you use for
cleaning up the parts before refinishing.  You make very quick progress with
good results. On the body did you completely strip off the paint before
priming or only clean up areas that needed attention then prime the entire
areas?

I am getting to the point that I will be starting on the body.  I have the
drive train, suspension and frame completed.  I still need to find a place to
have my painting done.  I hope to have the body parts painted separately
before assembly. What did you use for primer and will you be doing your body
painting yourself?

I appreciate any advice you can give me.

Ronald Olds
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 22 07:38:28 2013
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From: Lawrie <lawrie@britcars.com>
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To: mg-t@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.11.1379527202.18553.mg-t@autox.team.net>
	<19788CAF-CA28-4555-B49D-EB64C0389E3B@duvallvideo.com>
	<D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E5920C57E3@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] original or revised seal kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Ron,

The 433-415 kit was superseded because it assumed the crankshaft was in 
the exact original location. Most engines, when rebuilt properly, have 
the main bearing saddles line-honed or even line-bored, which almost 
always slightly shifts the position of the crankshaft. The 433-415 seal 
retainer positioned the seal relative to the original centerline so, if 
the line-boring moved the crank more than a few thousandths, the seal 
would not sit properly on the flange. One engine I rebuilt had the crank 
so far off-center that the seal was completely flattened on one side and 
not touching the other side of the flange!

This led to a re-design of the kit which allowed the seal retainer to 
"float" before being properly centered with a special alignment tool 
(included in the kit), as well as a comprehensively revised set of 
instructions which include precise details of how to position everything 
correctly and pictures of each step. Unfortunately, the 433-415 
components cannot be modified to be the equivalent of a 433-421 kit.

So far, the revisions seem to have made the Moss kit into an excellent 
fix for rear engine leaks, based on the fact that reported leaks and 
complaints about difficulty of installation have dwindled to almost zero.

(And, FWIW, last time I checked, the kit sold by B&G in England is a 
direct copy of the 433-415 kit.)

Lawrie

> Mike,
>
> The seal kit I used appears to be the old Moss kit (part number 433-415). This
> kit seems to be no longer available.  What was changed between this kit and
> the new revised 433-421 kit?  Is the new kit better than the one I used?  Does
> anyone know if the kit I have can be modified to make it the new style or I
> would have to replace it completely?
>
> Ronald Olds
>
> Ronald Olds
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Duvall Video Productions
> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 2:05 PM
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mg-t] original or revised seal kit
>
> Ron,  Did you install the old or the revised Moss kit?
>
> On Sep 18, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Ron Olds
>> Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:05 AM
>> To: wbeech@flash.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
>>
>> I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and
>> installing
> the
>> Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is
> coming
>> from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the
> crankshaft
>> installed?
>>
>> Ronald Olds
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/rolds@plausa.com
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lawrie@britcars.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 22 08:57:27 2013
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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 07:32:13 -0700
References: <mailman.11.1379527202.18553.mg-t@autox.team.net>
	<19788CAF-CA28-4555-B49D-EB64C0389E3B@duvallvideo.com>
	<D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E5920C57E3@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>
To: Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>
Cc: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] original or revised seal kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Go to the Moss Motors website, and enter the new part number. You can find
out
what you need, from the info. There are now 9 pages of instructions. Lawrie
Alexander
has done quite a write up of how to install the seal. Kit comes with a spacer,
locating jig,
new seal. Step-by-step instructions.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 22, 2013, at 5:55 AM, Ron Olds wrote:

> Mike,
>
> The seal kit I used appears to be the old Moss kit (part number 433-415).
This
> kit seems to be no longer available.  What was changed between this kit and
> the new revised 433-421 kit?  Is the new kit better than the one I used?
Does
> anyone know if the kit I have can be modified to make it the new style or I
> would have to replace it completely?
>
> Ronald Olds
>
> Ronald Olds
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Duvall Video Productions
> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 2:05 PM
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mg-t] original or revised seal kit
>
> Ron,  Did you install the old or the revised Moss kit?
>
> On Sep 18, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Ron Olds
>> Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:05 AM
>> To: wbeech@flash.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
>>
>> I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and
>> installing
> the
>> Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is
> coming
>> from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the
> crankshaft
>> installed?
>>
>> Ronald Olds
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/rolds@plausa.com
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 22 12:02:10 2013
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 12:33:19 -0500
References: <mailman.11.1379527202.18553.mg-t@autox.team.net>
	<19788CAF-CA28-4555-B49D-EB64C0389E3B@duvallvideo.com>
	<D41EE0DF20A47D48BF555A3204A3B9E5920C57E3@MSERVER.PLASSERUSA.com>
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To: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>, Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] original or revised seal kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

John,  If you have some clarity on the differences more details would be
appreciated.

Ron,  I have been studying what to do as my car leaked much worse after the
kit install.

I tried emailing Moss about the differences but their tech support is so bad
they don't actually answer your questions about what is different. They did
say you could order the parts individually but entering the part numbers into
their web site returns "no matching product"  and I didn't even get a response
when I asked about price on that part.


Here are the new instructions:
http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/instructions/433-421_980-379_INST
.pdf

It appears part# 433-406 Seal Housing Alignment tool is the only difference
aside from the much better and detailed instructions.

>From what I can tell the instructions are much more orderly but the install is
basically the same with the addition of the alignment tool and more additional
information on leakage in general.


Mike



On Sep 22, 2013, at 9:32 AM, John Seim wrote:

> Go to the Moss Motors website, and enter the new part number. You can find
out
> what you need, from the info. There are now 9 pages of instructions. Lawrie
Alexander
> has done quite a write up of how to install the seal. Kit comes with a
spacer, locating jig,
> new seal. Step-by-step instructions.
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA
>
> On Sep 22, 2013, at 5:55 AM, Ron Olds wrote:
>
>> Mike,
>>
>> The seal kit I used appears to be the old Moss kit (part number 433-415).
This
>> kit seems to be no longer available.  What was changed between this kit
and
>> the new revised 433-421 kit?  Is the new kit better than the one I used?
Does
>> anyone know if the kit I have can be modified to make it the new style or
I
>> would have to replace it completely?
>>
>> Ronald Olds
>>
>> Ronald Olds
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Duvall Video Productions
>> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 2:05 PM
>> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Mg-t] original or revised seal kit
>>
>> Ron,  Did you install the old or the revised Moss kit?
>>
>> On Sep 18, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]
>>> On Behalf Of Ron Olds
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:05 AM
>>> To: wbeech@flash.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
>>>
>>> I have a small leak from my engine as well after rebuilding and
>>> installing
>> the
>>> Moss seal.  I have not disassembled anything to see where the drip is
>> coming
>>> from.  Can someone tell me if the flywheel can be removed with the
>> crankshaft
>>> installed?
>>>
>>> Ronald Olds
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/rolds@plausa.com
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 14:19:10 -0500
References: <mailman.15.1379872806.18374.mg-t@autox.team.net>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] new seal kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Lawrie,  So exactly why can't the new tool be used to align the old housing?


After wasting over hundreds of dollars on the first kit,  getting poor tech
support and info from Moss,  I'm still doubtful I should shell out another
$300 to try it again when they can't properly answer questions about their own
product.

Mike



On Sep 22, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mg-t-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Ron,
>
> The 433-415 kit was superseded because it assumed the crankshaft was in
> the exact original location. Most engines, when rebuilt properly, have
> the main bearing saddles line-honed or even line-bored, which almost
> always slightly shifts the position of the crankshaft. The 433-415 seal
> retainer positioned the seal relative to the original centerline so, if
> the line-boring moved the crank more than a few thousandths, the seal
> would not sit properly on the flange. One engine I rebuilt had the crank
> so far off-center that the seal was completely flattened on one side and
> not touching the other side of the flange!
>
> This led to a re-design of the kit which allowed the seal retainer to
> "float" before being properly centered with a special alignment tool
> (included in the kit), as well as a comprehensively revised set of
> instructions which include precise details of how to position everything
> correctly and pictures of each step. Unfortunately, the 433-415
> components cannot be modified to be the equivalent of a 433-421 kit.
>
> So far, the revisions seem to have made the Moss kit into an excellent
> fix for rear engine leaks, based on the fact that reported leaks and
> complaints about difficulty of installation have dwindled to almost zero.
>
> (And, FWIW, last time I checked, the kit sold by B&G in England is a
> direct copy of the 433-415 kit.)
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<D86D739A-4604-4284-97AD-37A43A037D24@ghs.com.au>
From: John Deikis <johnsfolly@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 20:27:31 -0400
To: Murray Arundell <arundell@ghs.com.au>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Racing question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

No, I'm not saying that. I'm saying that vintage clubs in the U.S. are seeing
decreasing fields because of the graying population. Smaller numbers translate
into higher fees and riskier margins for the sanctioning clubs. The trend-- at
least in my club-- has been to try to include as many interested parties whose
approach and vehicles are "in the vintage spirit"  --however one might
interpret that. We have a guy in his 80's who races a Healey 3000 with a Buick
V8 in it. Is his car "correct"? Absolutely not. Did Americans race British
cars with V8's in them back in the 50's and 60's? Lot's of people certainly
did. We also are including people who want to bring obsolete SCCA "Improved
Touring"-class cars. I don't consider rotary-engined Mazdas to be "vintage",
but many run with the under-2.5 litre CanAm cars at our events. And it makes
for good racing.
--JohnD

On Sep 18, 2013, at 6:55 PM, Murray Arundell <arundell@ghs.com.au> wrote:

> Your comment "let's be inclusive" is intetesting. Are you saying we should
include anyone and anything that wants to race?
>
> Murray Arundell
> Brisbane Australia
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 19/09/2013, at 8:32, John Deikis <johnsfolly@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> John:
>> two comments:
>> Your friend would be on firmer ground "proving" Americans were road racing
>> V8-powered TF's in the 50's (I believe they did TD's). He would then be
>> classed with other specials-- for vintage, usually dependent upon
>> performance.
>> Also, if your friend is from the Great Lakes area, he will likely do most
of
>> his racing with VSCDA, which is a membership club and quite flexible.
Entry
>> fees pay the bills, so the rule of the day is "let's be inclusive and all
>> play."
>> -- John Deikis
>>
>> On Sep 15, 2013, at 8:59 AM, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
wrote:
>>
>>> John, those are some crazy rules since the car itself is close to ten
years
>> after WW II.  My impression was that they put T series cars in the prewar
>> class because they are relatively slow compared to many of their
>> contemporaries, or the specific driver's skill level makes him and his car
a
>> good match for the prewar cars.
>>> On 9/14/2013 7:00 PM, gunnellj tds.net wrote:
>>>> A friend did some damage to the engine in his MG TF engine at Road
America
>>>> last week. He wants to go faster and is considering a swap to a Ford
V8-60
>>>> engine. The T Series cars race in the prewar class. So he has to come up
>>>> with proof that a V8-60 was installed in an MG racing car before World
War
>>>> II. Can any cite such proof?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> John Gunnell
>>>> Iola, WI
>>> ______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/johnsfolly@gmail.com
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/arundell@ghs.com.au
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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 20:13:06 -0500
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Seal kit (cont)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Have watched all the responses to the Moss seal kit with great interest and
now think I am ready to jump in.

 From those who have BTDT what is the average time from bonnet removal to
restarting the completed job?

Great list, many thanks !!

Bill

'52 TD
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 08:23:48 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Just because...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

...a part came off in a certain orientation doesn't mean it is correct! PO's (and Os) do many things incorrectly - self included.B 

Quick question for the XPAG gurus:

The oil line from the block up to the head has a tap on one of the banjos for the gauge. A parts diagram that I have seen shows that tap on the upper banjo, the one at the head. When I got it, my engine had the tap at the bottom, at the block. I reinstalled it that way but the new flexible oil line appears too short. I haven't offered it up yet but I am concerned.B 

Please tell me which end of the line should be at the head; the banjo with the gauge tap, or the one without it.

Thank you!

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 06:44:05 -0700
References: <ogce0ffr6g1em4j40f8uvg4g.1380201828579@email.android.com>
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Just because...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

The banjo without the gauge tap should be at the head.
Early TD engines had the oil line without any gauge tap. One of the banjo
bolts had the gauge tap, and that was installed into the head position.
Wanting a truer oil pressure reading, they decided to take the reading from
the block.

Check the banjo bolt fittings, to see if they have been filled in with solder.
Many shops, not understanding that it was a worn rocker arm assembly, would
either fill the banjo bolt with solder, and then redrill a small oil passage
into it, or crimp the oil line between the block and the head, or, in one
case, they placed a plug into the cylinder head hole.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 26, 2013, at 6:23 AM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> ...a part came off in a certain orientation doesn't mean it is correct! PO's
(and Os) do many things incorrectly - self included.B
>
> Quick question for the XPAG gurus:
>
> The oil line from the block up to the head has a tap on one of the banjos
for the gauge. A parts diagram that I have seen shows that tap on the upper
banjo, the one at the head. When I got it, my engine had the tap at the
bottom, at the block. I reinstalled it that way but the new flexible oil line
appears too short. I haven't offered it up yet but I am concerned.B
>
> Please tell me which end of the line should be at the head; the banjo with
the gauge tap, or the one without it.
>
> Thank you!
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 08:55:40 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: kingseim@earthlink.net
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Just because...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Good insight and history John. Thank you. When I cleaned the line it seemed rather congested with something, although nothing 'solid' came out. With repeated application of solvent, the line flowed liquid just fine. Cleaned the banjo bolts the same way. Perhaps I just didn't get the squirt nozzle in properly at first.

-rick

-------- Original message --------
From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net> 
Date: 09/26/2013  8:44 AM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com> 
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Just because... 
 
The banjo without the gauge tap should be at the head.
Early TD engines had the oil line without any gauge tap. One of the banjo bolts had the gauge tap, and that was installed into the head position.
Wanting a truer oil pressure reading, they decided to take the reading from the block.

Check the banjo bolt fittings, to see if they have been filled in with solder. Many shops, not understanding that it was a worn rocker arm assembly, would either fill the banjo bolt with solder, and then redrill a small oil passage into it, or crimp the oil line between the block and the head, or, in one case, they placed a plug into the cylinder head hole. 

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Sep 26, 2013, at 6:23 AM, Rick Lindsay wrote:

> ...a part came off in a certain orientation doesn't mean it is correct! PO's (and Os) do many things incorrectly - self included.B 
> 
> Quick question for the XPAG gurus:
> 
> The oil line from the block up to the head has a tap on one of the banjos for the gauge. A parts diagram that I have seen shows that tap on the upper banjo, the one at the head. When I got it, my engine had the tap at the bottom, at the block. I reinstalled it that way but the new flexible oil line appears too short. I haven't offered it up yet but I am concerned.B 
> 
> Please tell me which end of the line should be at the head; the banjo with the gauge tap, or the one without it.
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
> 
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 26 08:04:54 2013
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From: BOB GRUNAU <grunau.garage@sympatico.ca>
To: "Rick Lindsay" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 10:03:30 -0400
	FILETIME=[758746D0:01CEBAC0]
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Just because...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
oil gauge line connects to the BOTTOM of the oil feed to the head. There is
about 10 psi lower oil pressure reading at thre gauge if connected to the
top, at the head. I guess this is due to restriction in the head feed pipe
or pressure loss through the rockers.
In any case, use the bottom connection which essentially reads oil gallery
pressure in the block.  Makes you feel better to see good oil pressure.
Move the oil feed brass junction fitting lower down to get the flex line to
reach the lower end of the oil feed to head.  I think it lives beside the
battery?
Bob, Canada

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Rick Lindsay
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2013 9:24 AM
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Just because...


...a part came off in a certain orientation doesn't mean it is correct! PO's
(and Os) do many things incorrectly - self included.B

Quick question for the XPAG gurus:

The oil line from the block up to the head has a tap on one of the banjos
for the gauge. A parts diagram that I have seen shows that tap on the upper
banjo, the one at the head. When I got it, my engine had the tap at the
bottom, at the block. I reinstalled it that way but the new flexible oil
line appears too short. I haven't offered it up yet but I am concerned.B

Please tell me which end of the line should be at the head; the banjo with
the gauge tap, or the one without it.

Thank you!

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/grunau.garage@sympatico.ca
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2013 16:13:54 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] TD update for Friday
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

A few more words and pictures of the TD restoration.

First of all, thanks go to Bob (mgbob) for spotting that I had
installed the fan blades backwards. He had reminded me of the correct
orientation earlier and in spite of that good advice, I still screwed
it up. Bob, it has now been corrected and here's the photographic
proof. Thank you.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130927_093004.jpg

After fixing the fan, I adjusted the valves to 0.015" clearance. (This
is a late TD2 XPAG.)  I then installed the distributor and set the
points to 0.015". With the engine at TDC on #1, I verified the correct
distributor rotor orientation then rotated the distributor until the
points were just breaking. A simple VOM made the setting easy. With
that done, I clamped the distributor in place, then marked #1 inside
of the distributor (with a Sharpie) and added the cap. Following that,
I verified that each of the plug gaps were at 0.022" and installed
them in the head. The plug threads were lubricated with copper infused
thread lube.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130927_111313.jpg

The plug wires are in a box at my storage unit. I need to retrieve
them and complete the ignition work.

With the engine adjustments completed, I rocked the engine back and
forth a few times to make sure it was sitting evenly balanced on the
motor mounts. I then carefully adjusted the stabilizer link without
disturbing the engine position. With the lock nuts tight, I put Carter
keys through the castle nuts and bent them securely.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130927_111411.jpg

Following are pictures from a few other operations, unrelated to the
time line. First of all, here's the valve cover with the cap now
chained to the cover.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130927_111426.jpg

Here's a look at the ground strap between the engine and the frame.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130927_111546.jpg

I connected the new oil gauge flex line to the engine and taped over
the other end, awaiting connection to the adapter next to the battery
tray.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130927_111456.jpg

Here's another look at the same area.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130927_111525.jpg

Memory is an ephemeral thing, especially when one is 62 years old! I
racked my brain trying to remember what was connected to that red tab
on the lifter box cover, obvious in the previous photo. Alas, I
couldn't remember so I went back to the early photographs.

Back in April, I took a picture that made me feel better, because
there was nothing connected to the tab. Here it is.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1245.JPG

The question still remains: What SHOULD be attached to that
tab...unless the answer is 'nothing' because its a residual left over
from an earlier XPAG implementation.

Happy Friday,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 28 12:23:46 2013
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Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2013 13:22:36 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Saturday's TD work...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

A bit more work completed today. Here's the a picture taken while
working. Notice the safety wires now installed through the cam lock
bolts.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130928_115654.jpg

Here's a look at the car now that the radiator has been installed and
the radiator shroud is installed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130928_122337.jpg

And more views.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130928_122350.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130928_122603.jpg

I haven't yet installed the other coolant hoses. The metal pipe is
still in need of restoration and refinishing. Don't know how I missed
it. Photos coming of that bit and its installation, once I get it
refinished.

Here's one last 'just for the fun of it' picture.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130928_122425.jpg

I'm off to the shower...

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 29 05:12:29 2013
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From: "Clive Sherriff" <clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com>
To: "MG-MMM at Autox" <mg-mmm@autox.team.net>, "TABC"
	<mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <5245DB20.5000009@mgnuts.com>
	<BAY171-W9537B2A7F290F442EB9739AD2A0@phx.gbl>
	<5246381C.8070507@mgnuts.com>
	<F8D5E8F06C7242458FC9960C83C473AE@cypress>
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2013 12:11:10 +0100
Subject: [Mg-t] Barrie Lyndon's famous book "Combat"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

A few months back I found a copy of Combat in a shop locally.

The bookseller now has another copy of Barrie Lyndon's book the 
record of MG's 1930/31/ and 32 racing seasons, again for sale at 
UK Pounds 65 - It's in good condition, some foxing to the edge as 
is usual on Combat, but pages are clear. Good binding, no dustjacket.   

Any interest contact me offlist and I'll get it and ship at cost.

He also has a nice copy of MG by McComb, with dustjacket (protected 
in a plastic cover) at UK Pounds 38. Though this is a bit high, it does 
not seem outrageous !  Its the one with the racing MGB on the
dustjacket.

I've no connection with the seller

Clive
Oxford, UK
= =============================
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Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 11:37:46 2013
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Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 12:35:59 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] TD plumbing...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

This morning was complex. Yea, that's not supposed to be the case once
retired. But it does happen.

At about 3:00AM, my wife's 85-year-old mom got out of bed to see why
her STUPID-ASS dog wasn't at the foot of her bed. And of course, she
fell and broke her pelvis. Fortunately, it wasn't a hip - which is
actually the head breaking off the femur. The solution is minor
surgery, pain management, rest, and time. Sadly, she missed landing on
the S-A dog.

That occupied much of our morning, trying to synchronize help from
1000 miles away, and planning travel. After that fiasco was
stabilized, Nancy watched the news (FOX, of course) while I went to
the garage. I first refinished the exhaust hangers and the T-pipe
between the radiator, thermostat housing and water pump. I first
cleaned it out carefully (the pipe, not the hangers :-) and cleaned
the exterior on the wire wheel. It then got a coat of gloss black
paint. I should have already refinished this part but alas, no system
is perfect.

I next installed the pipe using new hoses and new clamps. Here's how
it looks now.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130930_114340.jpg

I'll install the exhaust next. Pictures soon...

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 18:04:54 2013
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To: "Mgs@autox.team.net" <Mgs@autox.team.net>, MG <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Vintage MG Club of Southern California ALL MG Parts Exchange
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http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=167


mjb.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

