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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2013 15:05:52 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Lift-a-dot, etc.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey Gang,

I'm trying to find the correct 'pegs' for the TD tonneau cover and
top, but Moss doesn't list them.

If my count is correct, the car needs four (4) pegs with nuts below,
and eleven (11) pegs with wood screw studs. Please tell me where one
might find these parts - and the part numbers. Thanks.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Truxtun Southworth <tuck.southworth@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2013 16:41:51 -0400
References: <CAOc+-dxTOwZabM_1deuVBB=DBZQBOU3jMK+JRm8LimASxUyV3Q@mail.gmail.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Lift-a-dot, etc.
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
Try Abingdon Spares (800) 225-0251


On Nov 2, 2013, at 4:05 PM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hey Gang,
>
> I'm trying to find the correct 'pegs' for the TD tonneau cover and
> top, but Moss doesn't list them.
>
> If my count is correct, the car needs four (4) pegs with nuts below,
> and eleven (11) pegs with wood screw studs. Please tell me where one
> might find these parts - and the part numbers. Thanks.
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/tuck.southworth@gmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  2 17:14:30 2013
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Lift-a-dot, etc.
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I might have, Rick.

Lemme know if you want me to check.

Ed
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  3 05:59:20 2013
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To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Lift-a-dot, etc.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Moss Motors
226-408. "LIFT-THE-DOT" Stud. Wood screw.
226-600. "LIFT-THE-DOT" Peg. 10/32 threads
310-040. NUT, for peg. Or, you can buy 10/32 Nylok nuts at the hardware
store.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Nov 2, 2013, at 1:05 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote:

> Hey Gang,
>
> I'm trying to find the correct 'pegs' for the TD tonneau cover and
> top, but Moss doesn't list them.
>
> If my count is correct, the car needs four (4) pegs with nuts below,
> and eleven (11) pegs with wood screw studs. Please tell me where one
> might find these parts - and the part numbers. Thanks.
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  3 06:30:16 2013
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Lift-a-dot, etc.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,

I thought it very strange that Moss would not have them.  I know that 
the online catalogs sometimes make it difficult to find what you want, 
especially if you don't know the exact terminology to do a search.
Here is some interesting information that they provide:
http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/241-220.pdf

Charlie


On 11/3/2013 7:42 AM, John Seim wrote:
> Moss Motors
> 226-408. "LIFT-THE-DOT" Stud. Wood screw.
> 226-600. "LIFT-THE-DOT" Peg. 10/32 threads
> 310-040. NUT, for peg. Or, you can buy 10/32 Nylok nuts at the hardware
> store.
>
> John Seim
> Irvine, CA
>
> On Nov 2, 2013, at 1:05 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Hey Gang,
>>
>> I'm trying to find the correct 'pegs' for the TD tonneau cover and
>> top, but Moss doesn't list them.
>>
>> If my count is correct, the car needs four (4) pegs with nuts below,
>> and eleven (11) pegs with wood screw studs. Please tell me where one
>> might find these parts - and the part numbers. Thanks.
>>
>> -rick
>> ______________________________________________
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  3 13:53:55 2013
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From: John Crawley <alittlemoreink@hotmail.com>
To: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net"
	<mg-t@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 20:40:24 +0000
References: <CAOc+-dxTOwZabM_1deuVBB=DBZQBOU3jMK+JRm8LimASxUyV3Q@mail.gmail.com>,
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	FILETIME=[EC8A3530:01CED8D4]
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Lift-a-dot, etc.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi folks:
Just thought that I would add my method of installing lift-the-dot studs.
When you install them put a small dab of silicon in the hole before inserting
the stud - wipe off excess after the stud is tight. Silicon waterproofs the
metal body from moisture and helps prevent the stud from loosening. Also make
a small rubber washer by punching out a hole in bicycle inner tube rubber the
size of the base of the stud, then a smaller hole in the center for the screw
to go through. This helps with waterproofing and also prevents the stud from
cracking the paint when it is tightened down. Do not over tighten.
Godspeed in Safety Fast
Jc





> Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 08:15:28 -0500
> From: mgcharlie@comcast.net
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Lift-a-dot, etc.
>
> Rick,
>
> I thought it very strange that Moss would not have them.  I know that
> the online catalogs sometimes make it difficult to find what you want,
> especially if you don't know the exact terminology to do a search.
> Here is some interesting information that they provide:
> http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/241-220.pdf
>
> Charlie
>
>
> On 11/3/2013 7:42 AM, John Seim wrote:
> > Moss Motors
> > 226-408. "LIFT-THE-DOT" Stud. Wood screw.
> > 226-600. "LIFT-THE-DOT" Peg. 10/32 threads
> > 310-040. NUT, for peg. Or, you can buy 10/32 Nylok nuts at the hardware
> > store.
> >
> > John Seim
> > Irvine, CA
> >
> > On Nov 2, 2013, at 1:05 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote:
> >
> >> Hey Gang,
> >>
> >> I'm trying to find the correct 'pegs' for the TD tonneau cover and
> >> top, but Moss doesn't list them.
> >>
> >> If my count is correct, the car needs four (4) pegs with nuts below,
> >> and eleven (11) pegs with wood screw studs. Please tell me where one
> >> might find these parts - and the part numbers. Thanks.
> >>
> >> -rick
> >> ______________________________________________
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/alittlemoreink@hotmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  3 19:01:24 2013
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	<CAHv8QJvgGa=zRhk9JoUEJsqWQVEhddcP=eKPKsDCgC4CJbCT4Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAHv8QJt_MzHe5xW+xSjOyPPU6zwCRHF+MDBfKsqn3hF6SiXtGw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAHv8QJskSK6vNzatAd5aBhsOg-Eug5jgsizmiyUvxHLZ9oDe0A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 16:46:28 -0800
From: Barry Ryley <barry.ryley@gmail.com>
To: Mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Studs 226-408
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick, see page 55 of the Moss parts book. When I replaced mine last Spring,
I was able to purchase long ones that gave more bite into the wood, from my
MG dealer.
Cheers
Barry
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 11:19:24 2013
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 11:44:10 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Dash
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Almost ready for testing...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131104_110010.jpg

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 06:33:21 2013
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2013 07:14:57 -0600
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Gearbox oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

I write this morning requesting advice.

I'm not far from starting the TD for the first time. My concern is for the gearbox oil. Should I,

1. Change the oil now and call it 'good'?

2. Change the oil now then change again after running a bit?

3. Leave the old, clean-looking oil in place, for now?

4. Idle the box in neutral until warm, using the old oil to 'clean' the insides, then change?

5. Some other plan?

I'm a gearbox novice. Advice appreciated.B 

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 08:11:20 2013
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	UTC
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Rick Lindsay'" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	<mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <vkor87ns6a1yo6ihbq54h6l3.1383657297325@email.android.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 08:45:48 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac7aK1qsuqmUZao+SKCTN3iuPJKcrwACBTpA
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Gearbox oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Depends....

A. If you re-built the gearbox during this project, I would run it for 200
miles and change it, just like the motor. 
B. If this is old oil, many years, then I would go ahead and change it now,
after a short warm up.
C. If you don't know the history of the gearbox and lube in it at all, then
change it now and call it "good".

Good questions that beg one more.  What is the recommendation of The List on
what lube to use for a TD gearbox?  Moss catalog seems to be selling every
fluid, oil and lube there is with the exception of gearbox lube.  

Personally, I would recommend Red Line MT90 (NFI), what does everyone else
use?

All the best,
Bill


-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rick Lindsay
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2013 7:15 AM
To: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Gearbox oil

Hello Friends,

I write this morning requesting advice.

I'm not far from starting the TD for the first time. My concern is for the
gearbox oil. Should I,

1. Change the oil now and call it 'good'?

2. Change the oil now then change again after running a bit?

3. Leave the old, clean-looking oil in place, for now?

4. Idle the box in neutral until warm, using the old oil to 'clean' the
insides, then change?

5. Some other plan?

I'm a gearbox novice. Advice appreciated.B 

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/wbeech@flash.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 08:51:19 2013
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	<69574C6D6A42476DAF90CCA8B43177E3@bboffice>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 10:40:25 -0500
From: Scott Allen <scottallen3663@gmail.com>
To: wbeech@flash.net
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Gearbox oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I use Castrol or Valvoline 80w90.  I tried to use Red Line, but both times,
when I had occasion to remove the gearbox the clutch was covered in fluid.

So, until they come up with a modern mainshaft seal that synthetic can't
migrate past I'm sticking to old-fashioned dinosaur juice.

~Scott Allen
'52 MGTD


On Tue, Nov 5, 2013 at 9:45 AM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> Depends....
>
> A. If you re-built the gearbox during this project, I would run it for 200
> miles and change it, just like the motor.
> B. If this is old oil, many years, then I would go ahead and change it now,
> after a short warm up.
> C. If you don't know the history of the gearbox and lube in it at all, then
> change it now and call it "good".
>
> Good questions that beg one more.  What is the recommendation of The List
> on
> what lube to use for a TD gearbox?  Moss catalog seems to be selling every
> fluid, oil and lube there is with the exception of gearbox lube.
>
> Personally, I would recommend Red Line MT90 (NFI), what does everyone else
> use?
>
> All the best,
> Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Rick Lindsay
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2013 7:15 AM
> To: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mg-t] Gearbox oil
>
> Hello Friends,
>
> I write this morning requesting advice.
>
> I'm not far from starting the TD for the first time. My concern is for the
> gearbox oil. Should I,
>
> 1. Change the oil now and call it 'good'?
>
> 2. Change the oil now then change again after running a bit?
>
> 3. Leave the old, clean-looking oil in place, for now?
>
> 4. Idle the box in neutral until warm, using the old oil to 'clean' the
> insides, then change?
>
> 5. Some other plan?
>
> I'm a gearbox novice. Advice appreciated.B
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/wbeech@flash.net
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/scottallen3663@gmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  9 17:34:46 2013
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	bits=128/128); Sat, 09 Nov 2013 16:26:14 -0800 (PST)
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2013 18:26:11 -0600
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] XPAG oil pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Does the 1953 vintage XPAG oil pump need to be 'primed' after changing the oil and filter?B 

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 10 02:30:15 2013
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From: "Clive Sherriff" <clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com>
To: "Rick Lindsay" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <1epepl3enhit9vlbsuw5vclq.1384043171097@email.android.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 09:25:15 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] XPAG oil pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

no



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Lindsay" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 12:26 AM
Subject: [Mg-t] XPAG oil pump


> Hello Friends,
>
> Does the 1953 vintage XPAG oil pump need to be 'primed' after changing the 
> oil and filter?B
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 12:36:39 GMT
To: richardolindsay@gmail.com
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] XPAG oil pump
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
   Usually not. It holds prime during regular changes.If one has let the sump
drain for a long period, overnight, say, the pump may drain also.
   I put a pint +/- of oil into the filter so pressure may build faster.
Bob



---------- Original Message ----------
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] XPAG oil pump
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2013 18:26:11 -0600

Hello Friends,

Does the 1953 vintage XPAG oil pump need to be 'primed' after changing the oil
and filter?B

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 10 09:10:54 2013
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 10:03:36 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] TD oil pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey Friends,

Have just a moment to type this morning. NOT a car day.

I was concerned when I started my TD that there was no indicated oil
pressure. I only ran it for a 30 seconds or so. This morning I opened
the prime-port on the pump and flooded it with oil until it was full.
I then spun the engine on the starter only to pump oil out onto my
garage floor. I replaced the plug and called it 'good'.

I started the engine and gave the gauge a few raps with the fingers,
like one sees pilots do in the old war movies. Anyway, it worked and
whatever was stuck inside gave way. At fast idle the engine now makes
an indicated 60psi. The carbs are out of balance, as indicated by the
flow meter, so I've got some fun tuning to do.

That said, you might have noticed that I copy my friend Rui Gigante on
most all my notes. Rui lives in Porto, Portugal and besides being a
dear friend, he is a expert British and Italian car restorer. Rui just
had a terrible evening yesterday. Details are unknown about the
accident at this time but the left rear of his Ferrari 328GTS,
including the drivetrain, is severely damaged. Rui is devastated, as
would be any of us if our precious cars are damaged. Fortunately, no
one was hurt - physically - but Rui is hurting plenty bad emotionally
today. Think of him today please, as you tinker tinker in the garage.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 18:43:28 2013
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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 19:41:46 -0600
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Welt help, please...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Quick question for the TD Brain Trust:

The welt between the wings and tub breaks at the rear of the running boards, right? Then picks up again around the rear wing?

That's the way my car was outfitted when I received it. But as we know, after 60 years, that often means little.

Your advice is appreciated.B 

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 14:25:51 2013
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Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 15:23:54 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] XPAG ignition timing instability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

My '53 TD's XPAG has unstable ignition timing. Its the kind of
instability caused by worn distributor bits (advance mechanism,
bushings, etc.). Static timing is set to TDC but it bounces around
quite a lot at idle. My TR3 had exactly the same problem and a new
distributor made it rock solid - the timing AND the idle.

Is there a distributor rebuild service that you recommend? Moss has a
replacement for $470 but its an upgrade, not a one-for-one
replacement. I don't want to go there AND I don't have the skills or
tools to rebuild my distributor.

Please help.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 14:58:38 2013
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Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 13:54:01 -0800
From: Lawrie <lawrie@britcars.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: mg-t@autox.team.net
References: <CAOc+-dypH=q0NJ_itb_9cJvw=Z94t4DXNEcWGNPauLf4hkcC=w@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] XPAG ignition timing instability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff @ Advanced Distributors will do a terrific job for under $200. 
(www.advanceddistributors.com)

Lawrie

On 11/12/2013 1:23 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote:
> Hi Friends,
>
> My '53 TD's XPAG has unstable ignition timing. Its the kind of
> instability caused by worn distributor bits (advance mechanism,
> bushings, etc.). Static timing is set to TDC but it bounces around
> quite a lot at idle. My TR3 had exactly the same problem and a new
> distributor made it rock solid - the timing AND the idle.
>
> Is there a distributor rebuild service that you recommend? Moss has a
> replacement for $470 but its an upgrade, not a one-for-one
> replacement. I don't want to go there AND I don't have the skills or
> tools to rebuild my distributor.
>
> Please help.
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/lawrie@britcars.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <CAOc+-dypH=q0NJ_itb_9cJvw=Z94t4DXNEcWGNPauLf4hkcC=w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 17:09:36 -0500
From: Scott Allen <scottallen3663@gmail.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] XPAG ignition timing instability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Blair Engle who is a member of this list did mine.  He owns the Classic MG
Shop in Tallahasee and can be reached at engle001@comcast.net.  He also
offers several other rebuild services.

However, please be advised when he did mine he had to replace the case as
well as re-bush it.  It's made of pot metal and the shaft will wear an oval
pattern in it over time rather than staying round, causing the back two
cylinders to run rich no matter what adjustment I made.

~Scott
'52 MG


On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 4:23 PM, Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay@gmail.com>wrote:

> Hi Friends,
>
> My '53 TD's XPAG has unstable ignition timing. Its the kind of
> instability caused by worn distributor bits (advance mechanism,
> bushings, etc.). Static timing is set to TDC but it bounces around
> quite a lot at idle. My TR3 had exactly the same problem and a new
> distributor made it rock solid - the timing AND the idle.
>
> Is there a distributor rebuild service that you recommend? Moss has a
> replacement for $470 but its an upgrade, not a one-for-one
> replacement. I don't want to go there AND I don't have the skills or
> tools to rebuild my distributor.
>
> Please help.
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/scottallen3663@gmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 16:31:20 2013
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	UTC
From: Gene Gillam <anngene@bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 17:10:07 -0600
References: <CAOc+-dypH=q0NJ_itb_9cJvw=Z94t4DXNEcWGNPauLf4hkcC=w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAGy6XXSr58=yKx6Bycu0_MsHZduvR7e1mg4wuk4TL6AO6fsJ7Q@mail.gmail.com>
To: Scott Allen <scottallen3663@gmail.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] XPAG ignition timing instability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe Blair has fully retired from the MG repair business now.

Gene Gillam
Saucier, MS
anngene@bellsouth.net


On Nov 12, 2013, at 4:09 PM, Scott Allen <scottallen3663@gmail.com> wrote:

> Blair Engle who is a member of this list did mine.  He owns the Classic MG
> Shop in Tallahasee and can be reached at engle001@comcast.net.  He also
> offers several other rebuild services.
>
> However, please be advised when he did mine he had to replace the case as
> well as re-bush it.  It's made of pot metal and the shaft will wear an oval
> pattern in it over time rather than staying round, causing the back two
> cylinders to run rich no matter what adjustment I made.
>
> ~Scott
> '52 MG
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 4:23 PM, Richard Lindsay
> <richardolindsay@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Hi Friends,
>>
>> My '53 TD's XPAG has unstable ignition timing. Its the kind of
>> instability caused by worn distributor bits (advance mechanism,
>> bushings, etc.). Static timing is set to TDC but it bounces around
>> quite a lot at idle. My TR3 had exactly the same problem and a new
>> distributor made it rock solid - the timing AND the idle.
>>
>> Is there a distributor rebuild service that you recommend? Moss has a
>> replacement for $470 but its an upgrade, not a one-for-one
>> replacement. I don't want to go there AND I don't have the skills or
>> tools to rebuild my distributor.
>>
>> Please help.
>>
>> -rick
>> ______________________________________________
>>
>> Mg-t@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/scottallen3663@gmail.com
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/anngene@bellsouth.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 16:33:04 2013
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To: richardolindsay@gmail.com, mg-t@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] XPAG ignition timing instability
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I rebuild & re curve advance in  distributors as well.
Most under $ 200 as well
Powder coatings
Component rebuilding
Custom cylinder head porting
And of course Roller lifter camshaft kits
5 grinds, "A roller cam will always out perform a flat lifter cam of the same
duration!"
and roller rocker arms.
Len Fanelli
Abingdon Performance
914 420 8699



-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Nov 12, 2013 4:26 pm
Subject: [Mg-t] XPAG ignition timing instability


Hi Friends,

My '53 TD's XPAG has unstable ignition timing. Its the kind of
instability caused by worn distributor bits (advance mechanism,
bushings, etc.). Static timing is set to TDC but it bounces around
quite a lot at idle. My TR3 had exactly the same problem and a new
distributor made it rock solid - the timing AND the idle.

Is there a distributor rebuild service that you recommend? Moss has a
replacement for $470 but its an upgrade, not a one-for-one
replacement. I don't want to go there AND I don't have the skills or
tools to rebuild my distributor.

Please help.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 13 17:38:20 2013
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 18:36:50 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] D2A4 40368F
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

I found a cool site that has info on my XPAG's distributor. For those
of you who are as geeky as me...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130807_072413.jpg

Its a D2A4 model 40368F

Distributor     Timing
Speed rpm    Advance
---------------+--------------------------
200                0 degrees
500                1-1/2 to 3-1/2 degrees
1150              9-1/2 to 11-1/2 degrees
2600              14 to 16 degrees

Note: Remember, distributor speed is half the crank speed.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 14 14:44:51 2013
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Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Floor boards
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Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

<<  On 11/14/2013 2:49 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote:

I'm sending my TD's distributor off for repairs and recalibration.  >>

To Jeff at Advanced, I 'hope' Rick <G> ? ? ?

Ed
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 14 17:14:09 2013
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 18:12:19 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Floorboard trial fit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

With the TD's floorboards' urethane finish now dry, I set the floors
in place for a trial-fit. Its excellent. Here's a look.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131114_180432.jpg

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 01:22:59 2013
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From: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
To: "Scott Allen" <scottallen3663@gmail.com>
Date: 15 Nov 2013 09:22:03 +0100
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] XPAG ignition timing instability
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Scott,

how can a maladjusted distributor be the cause for cylinders running rich? I always thought that the carbs were responsible for the mixture.

Eric

bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
Von	Scott Allen [scottallen3663@gmail.com]	
An	Richard Lindsay[richardolindsay@gmail.com]	
CC	mg-t@autox.team.net	
Datum	12.11.2013 23:48:14	
Betreff	Re: [Mg-t] XPAG ignition timing instability	
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
Blair Engle who is a member of this list did mine.  He owns the Classic MG
Shop in Tallahasee and can be reached at engle001@comcast.net.  He also
offers several other rebuild services.

However, please be advised when he did mine he had to replace the case as
well as re-bush it.  It's made of pot metal and the shaft will wear an oval
pattern in it over time rather than staying round, causing the back two
cylinders to run rich no matter what adjustment I made.

~Scott
'52 MG
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 16 08:48:46 2013
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2013 09:47:52 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Bodywork to paint
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

I visited the paint shop this morning. They have begun stripping and
grinding away all the old paint, primer and Bondo from my TD's wings.
Here's a look at the metal below the crud.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131116_090035.jpg

The guys are going to clean it all up and apply a rust-killing acid
etch primer. They'll then apply a skim of filler where the surface
rust has eaten deeper than what a high build-up primer should fill.

Here's a look at the front end of the left-front wing where previous
damage has been (kinda) repaired. This is a good example of where the
metal will be fixed and any remaining little 'dimples' will be
infilled.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131116_085331.jpg

Progress, if slowly. The shop expects the job to be finished by the
middle of next week.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 16 16:36:46 2013
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2013 17:35:51 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Fuel tank straps and spare carrier
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Up until today, my TD's fuel tank was just setting in place (and
plumbed). Today, I painted the spare tire carrier and installed it
along with the tank straps, on the rear of the tub. I then installed
and wired the license plate light, and the plate.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131116_172414.jpg

Tomorrow, I'll connect the wire to the low-fuel sender and strap the
harness in place.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2013 10:06:02 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Just a few TD pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

No work in the garage today but I have a few pictures to share. First
of all, here's a look at the driver's footwell.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1479.JPG

Draft excluders are now installed on the steering column and the
pedals, as well as new pedal pads. The floor pan will be added after
bleeding the brakes. The screws for the pedal rubber retainer, before.

Just another look at the progress. Note the foam insulation inserted
between the tranny cover and the tunnel. Its just home weatherstrip
but will help keep fumes out of the cockpit. (Yea, like there's no
other way for fumes to get in!)

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1480.JPG

Presented in no particular order other than me walking around the
garage, are more pictures. Here's a look at the end of the fuel tank.
That's anti-rust red primer. I'll paint this area by brush with POR15
before installing the pretty end caps.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1481.JPG

I couldn't resist wiring the light and mounting the license plate -
just for a look. I need to replace the screws with pretty stainless
steel hardware, but for now, it in place.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1482.JPG

Here's the back of the tank with the harness wires waiting to be
strapped to the frame. The line to the license plate lamp is installed
and connected. The tank level switch wire has not yet been connected
because my acid reflux today told me NOT to lay on my back and fight
wires. The remaining wires await the installation of the wings.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1483.JPG

The main harness snap connectors were a little further back on the
original harness but the location of the new connectors is just fine.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1484.JPG

Here's a close-up picture of a tank attachment strap and spare
carrier. I need to change out the washer and lockwasher for stainless
then decide if I want to reinstall the chrome luggage carrier. A lot
of that decision will ride upon whether I can straighten a bend in the
metal. It looks like the carrier was used to push the car, then bent.
I did not clean the paint before taking the picture.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1486.JPG

Again, wildly out of order, here's a look at the gearbox cover. The
accelerator linkage had to be disconnected to fit the cover. That's
why the 'pedal' is down on the floor.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1488.JPG

I have yet to decide whether to replace the shifter, or to just clean
and polish it, thereby leaving a bit of patina. Either way, the moving
parts will get lubed nicely before to boot is installed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1489.JPG

Just another look at the pedals with the new pads installed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1490.JPG

And to finish off today's offering, here are a few looks at just how
trashed the garage has become. Restoring TWO cars at the same time is
MESSY.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1492.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1493.JPG

'53 TD in the foreground, '73 Volvo 1800ES project in driveway right behind it.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1496.JPG

The Toyota doesn't count - until I need to carry parts to/from storage!

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 13:42:27 2013
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References: <n78n714bdhvygevrk7c5winy.1384719499116@email.android.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2013 15:41:29 -0500
From: Scott Allen <scottallen3663@gmail.com>
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Chrome
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

I used Graves Plating in AL.

That was after I had some sub-standard work done.  Good shops are hard to
find.

~Scott
'52 TD


On Sun, Nov 17, 2013 at 3:18 PM, Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>wrote:

> Hello Friends,
>
> Anyone here have a dependable chrome shop that do my TD's windshield frame
> and the headlight pods?
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/scottallen3663@gmail.com
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 14:20:18 2013
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References: <n78n714bdhvygevrk7c5winy.1384719499116@email.android.com>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2013 15:19:17 -0600
To: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Chrome
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
I have a friend that has recommended Speed Sport Chrome in Houston,
713.921.0235.  I have not used them but intend to give them a try on my
current project in a few months.

NFI,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 17, 2013, at 2:18 PM, Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
> Hello Friends,
>
> Anyone here have a dependable chrome shop that do my TD's windshield frame
and the headlight pods?
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/wbeech@flash.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 18 01:42:41 2013
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From: Jesus Vicente Benajes Calvo <jbenajes@mot.upv.es>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mg-t] Just a few TD pictures
Thread-Index: AQHO468NOg4MxMMTeUe8v2b0F17l1JoqpN+A
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 08:36:47 +0000
References: <CAOc+-dwyFNg6Ps7SN8ASJsgzaZppJiDBL2mdZDRzNSi4dk6+dA@mail.gmail.com>
Accept-Language: es-ES, en-US
Content-Language: es-ES
x-originating-ip: [158.42.90.164]
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Just a few TD pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Rick,

I do not see clearly in your photos, but a good recommendation is to let the
rear light harness to make a loop downwards at the exit from the support pipe,
before turning upwards towards the light. This should avoid the ingress of
rain water into the pipe that may trickle down along the harness.

Jeszs



Escurrir

> -----Mensaje original-----
> De: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] En
> nombre de Richard Lindsay
> Enviado el: domingo, 17 de noviembre de 2013 17:06
> Para: mgs@autox.team.net List; mg-t@autox.team.net; Rui Gigante
> Asunto: [Mg-t] Just a few TD pictures
>
> Hi Friends,
>
> No work in the garage today but I have a few pictures to share. First of
> all, here's a look at the driver's footwell.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1479.JPG
>
> Draft excluders are now installed on the steering column and the pedals, as
> well as new pedal pads. The floor pan will be added after bleeding the
> brakes. The screws for the pedal rubber retainer, before.
>
> Just another look at the progress. Note the foam insulation inserted
> between the tranny cover and the tunnel. Its just home weatherstrip but
> will help keep fumes out of the cockpit. (Yea, like there's no other way
> for fumes to get in!)
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1480.JPG
>
> Presented in no particular order other than me walking around the garage,
> are more pictures. Here's a look at the end of the fuel tank.
> That's anti-rust red primer. I'll paint this area by brush with POR15
> before installing the pretty end caps.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1481.JPG
>
> I couldn't resist wiring the light and mounting the license plate - just
> for a look. I need to replace the screws with pretty stainless steel
> hardware, but for now, it in place.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1482.JPG
>
> Here's the back of the tank with the harness wires waiting to be strapped
> to the frame. The line to the license plate lamp is installed and
> connected. The tank level switch wire has not yet been connected because my
> acid reflux today told me NOT to lay on my back and fight wires. The
> remaining wires await the installation of the wings.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1483.JPG
>
> The main harness snap connectors were a little further back on the original
> harness but the location of the new connectors is just fine.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1484.JPG
>
> Here's a close-up picture of a tank attachment strap and spare carrier. I
> need to change out the washer and lockwasher for stainless then decide if I
> want to reinstall the chrome luggage carrier. A lot of that decision will
> ride upon whether I can straighten a bend in the metal. It looks like the
> carrier was used to push the car, then bent.
> I did not clean the paint before taking the picture.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1486.JPG
>
> Again, wildly out of order, here's a look at the gearbox cover. The
> accelerator linkage had to be disconnected to fit the cover. That's why the
> 'pedal' is down on the floor.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1488.JPG
>
> I have yet to decide whether to replace the shifter, or to just clean and
> polish it, thereby leaving a bit of patina. Either way, the moving parts
> will get lubed nicely before to boot is installed.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1489.JPG
>
> Just another look at the pedals with the new pads installed.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1490.JPG
>
> And to finish off today's offering, here are a few looks at just how
> trashed the garage has become. Restoring TWO cars at the same time is
> MESSY.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1492.JPG
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1493.JPG
>
> '53 TD in the foreground, '73 Volvo 1800ES project in driveway right behind
> it.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1496.JPG
>
> The Toyota doesn't count - until I need to carry parts to/from storage!
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-
> t/jbenajes@mot.upv.es
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 15:04:03 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Minimal TD work
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Here's an early look at my TD's interior.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/1953%20TD%20018.jpg

The seats are vinyl and appear to be homemade. Upon opening the
driver's seat, the homemade interpretation is probably confirmed.

Here are a couple of looks at the wooden frame with the foam and raffia removed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1498.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1497.JPG

I'll use wood filler in all the nail and staple holes followed by
MinWax Wood Hardner on everything. One can tell by the light weight
that a lot of the wood's strength is reduced. Wood Hardner infills the
voids in old wood and re-hardens it. This process, like paint, also
seals the surface of the porous material, and prevents that 'old car'
smell. Now, to us, that smell says, "Yeehaa, another cool car
project!", but to my wife it evokes, "I'm not getting in that old car.
It stinks."

Here's a look at the underside of the old upholstery. The rose print
is a nice touch!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1499.JPG

Just for giggles, I placed the spare tire on carrier.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1500.JPG

And before someone gets offended, yes that is my license plate and I
don't mind who sees it. After all, it IS on the outside of my car as
required by law.

And speaking of issues that offend, I have chosen to install the
'incorrect' sill plates on my TD.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1502.JPG

And just for eye-candy, here's a look at the instrument panel, as received.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/Instrument_before.jpg

And after.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1504.JPG

Fun!

Happy Tuesday,

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 16:59:42 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] A little more work on the TD seat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi again Friends,

This afternoon, after posting the seat pictures to the list, I went
back to the garage for a little more work. I wanted to do some work to
prep for tomorrow.

First up, I drilled out the totally-rusted-solid screws and removed
the seat rails. Here's how it looked.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1505.JPG

I then pulled the last of the tacks and staples out, as well as the
t-nuts, and sanded the wood a bit, mostly to clean it.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1506.JPG

I then applied masking tape to the bottom of the T-nut holes, flipped
it over and applied wood filler.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1507.JPG

I flipped it over and filled the 3.28125x10^23 tack holes, leaving
everything to dry until tomorrow. I'll then sand again, drill out neat
new holes for new t-nuts and paint it with Wood Hardener.

I cleaned the seat back attachment and its ready for paint.

And before giving up for the day, I cleaned the seat rails on the wire
wheel. They came out nicely but I didn't get any photos. Tomorrow I'll
get a thin coat of aluminum paint on them and mount them back on the
wooden base. The other half of the seat rail assembly is remarkably
clean. A tiny bit of attention on the wheel and a blast of aluminum
paint and the rails will be done! A trip to Ace for new hardware and
the base will be ready to mount. Well, after reupholstering.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 20 06:51:52 2013
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 07:49:48 -0600
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net, tr3a@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Mg-t] Almost marketing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

I know 'For Sale' posts are frowned upon on most car lists, but nice opportunities may be acceptable. We shall see.B 

Many of you may know that I bought my '53 TD from listmember, Bill Schooler, up in Maryland. Bill is a good and trustworthy guy. The car I bought from him is a project and was described expertly, just as it existed. If anything, my car was a little better than Bill described it. I bought it sight-unseen, except for pictures. Why am I telling you all this?

Bill has another TD that I considered before buying mine. Its a quite rare and complete RHD '53 TD, B and that had great appeal. I don't buy cars as investments but neither do I like throwing money away. My classic car restoration addiction has to self-fund or my retirement scheme collapses. In the end, I bought the LHD car but only because I live in Houston, Texas, the land of 80mph pickups and SUVs. A 54hp car can't get out of their way very easily. This is a challenge for any small car here, especially for one with mirror-image symmetry. B Okay, again I ask; Why am I telling you this?

The answer is simple. I have learned that Bill still has the RHD '53 TD and it would make a great, valuable project for someone - especially the kind of restorer who does his own work. So there is the (almost) 'For Sale' part of my note. I hope you read this as exposing an opportunity to acquire an intriguing project. I just wish I had room for another car. Sadly, I have NINE. I think I said I'm an addict...

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 20 09:49:05 2013
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 10:47:51 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Wood eye?!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey Friends,

Just one picture for now. I found it interesting that in addition to
the plywood, the factory used just any wood they had for the seat
base. In this picture you can see that two thirds of the seat's
support frame is pine, or some other white wood, while one side of the
support is mahogany! Its just a cool quirk of the time. They used what
they had. Kinda makes one think that the white wood may be cut from
left-over pallets. Certainly looks like it.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131120_100447.jpg

The glossiness is from the wood hardener, still wet in this flash picture.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 20 12:31:13 2013
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 13:22:17 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] TD seat foam
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

I just opened my Moss seat foam kit (640-348) only to find the foam
noticeably larger than the base. For those of you who have used this
product, do you just work the foam into the space available, kinda
like pre-loading? Or are these 'sponges' trim-to-fit? My gut tells me
the former but I ask for your sage knowledge. Thanks.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 20 12:37:26 2013
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	HTTP: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 19:34:32 GMT
From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 19:34:32 GMT
To: richardolindsay@gmail.com
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD seat foam
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

  Foams from that source may vary.
  Many MGB people say that their new Moss foams were much taller than the old
foams, and that their legs don't fit under the steering wheel.  The MGB foams
I got a year or two ago were fine as received, though , and fit perfectly.
  No experience with TD foams.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] TD seat foam
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 13:22:17 -0600

Hi Friends,

I just opened my Moss seat foam kit (640-348) only to find the foam
noticeably larger than the base. For those of you who have used this
product, do you just work the foam into the space available, kinda
like pre-loading? Or are these 'sponges' trim-to-fit? My gut tells me
the former but I ask for your sage knowledge. Thanks.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 20 14:36:56 2013
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From: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 13:24:29 -0800
References: <CAOc+-dwJtKfgjTn4LNqgNpBX8oTqrsO7Oo43eX1DZDzoFCWH_g@mail.gmail.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD seat foam
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

The foam that I have received from Moss Motors, is a heavy density foam.
The Dunlop Pillowblock foam that was used by the factory would be
classified as a medium density foam. Compresses more than high density.
You want to side below the top of the windshield, not at eye level with it.

You can get medium density foam at most upholstery stores. And, you can
cut it with an electric carving knife.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Nov 20, 2013, at 11:22 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote:

> Hi Friends,
>
> I just opened my Moss seat foam kit (640-348) only to find the foam
> noticeably larger than the base. For those of you who have used this
> product, do you just work the foam into the space available, kinda
> like pre-loading? Or are these 'sponges' trim-to-fit? My gut tells me
> the former but I ask for your sage knowledge. Thanks.
>
> -rick
> ______________________________________________
>
> Mg-t@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/kingseim@earthlink.net
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 17:35:17 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Seat bases and garages
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Here's a look at the driver's seat base with the new t-nuts installed.
I went further and installed the nicely refinished seat rails on the
base to verify alignment. The rails move smoothly along their entire
path. Once everything is done, I'll lightly grease them.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131120_124700.jpg

Humidity has gone through the roof and now its raining. I used the
last of my time today cleaning the garage and guess what?! I found a
concrete floor under all that debris!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131120_164808.jpg

Tomorrow, I'll see what's under the parts on the workbenches.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 21 09:32:30 2013
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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 10:28:29 -0600
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Changes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Took my TD's bonnet and doors to the paint shop. Good news is that my wings and valences haven't yet been painted. That was the plan for today.

I have decided to have everything painted Autumn Red, rather than paint the wings black.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 21 17:53:34 2013
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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 18:47:54 -0600
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Wings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys,

I got to see my TD's front wings, sans paint, this morning. One wing has seen 'a little action'. Its been bent (a little) and straightened (nicely) and one edge had been braised to repair a split (about a half inch long). Otherwise, B the metal's good.

If you have followed any of my notes you know that I painted the tub in the garage. It came out great (Not my first rodeo.) but the smell almost cost me a divorce! Therefore, everything else is getting painted professionally.B 

Everything else should be back B from the painter within two (more) weeks.

-rick
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 22 04:56:48 2013
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From: "Clive Sherriff" <clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com>
To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
References: <m3obb2bcv60ovm5fupnw1pl6.1385081274366@email.android.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2013 11:55:27 -0000
Subject: [Mg-t] Instrument Glasses - Flat, Curved?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net

Here is one I'm quite stumped on.

Some Speedos and Tachos sometimes have flat glass, others convex curved away 
from the instrument dash. I have seen have seen various dials on TA through 
TB, TC and TD that have either a flat or a curved glass.

Similarly for Ammeters, Oil gauges etc.

Were, perhaps pre war flat and post war curved?  were they all curved?  was 
flat original ? etc. etc. (At least I've definately never seen a concave 
one!)

Obviously it's much easier to replace a broken glass with a flat one, and 
cheaper.

So can anyone give a definitive originality view on this please, great 
articles by Doug P and John Marks etc I've seen don't refer to this.

Clive
Oxford, UK
= =============================== 
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

