From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  1 12:21:55 2013
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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk@godblessthe.us>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 10:55:26 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5GD09Y3BZ/d0KsToqK+zAbgnUpogAhVoGA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

What do you guys do with the left over stripper? Does it dry? I know that it
is not capable of being neutralized.

Crk


This Week's 'Non Compos Mentis' Award: "Being in Watertown right now, the
streets are empty. It's erie. It's as though a bomb had dropped somewhere."
--CNN's star reporter Susan Candiotti on the scene during the man-hunt for
the Boston bomber
another mind like a steel trap


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dwoerpel@wi.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2013 6:53 PM
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.

Could be worse Rick!  5 of us restored the EAA's B-25 back in the 80's.  It
had been in "Catch 22" and had 7 coats of paint and rubberized backing
insulation on the interior.  Got it done with
350 gal. of methylene chloride and 6 months of Wednesday evenings and full
Saturdays.  It's a messy job but somebody's got to do it....all part of the
fun.

Car is going to be great!

Dave W.



> Or investing in a big ol' vat and a couple
gallons of stripper..... ;-)
> 
> Dan D
> Central
NJ USA
> 
> 
> 
>
________________________________
> 
From: Richard Lindsay
> <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
> To: mgs@autox.team.net;
mg-t@autox.team.net; Rui
> Gigante
<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2013 3:42
PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
> 
>

> Hi Friends,
> 
> After hauling all the
> big metal bits to the storage unit, I spent a couple of
hours this afternoon
> stripping paint off of the spare tire
> carrier.  What a P.I.T.A.!  Still, its coming up nicely
and will look
> good.  I keep telling myself that.
> 
> Here's a
> couple of pictures of the carrier in two stages
of paint
> stripping.  The first
> picture was taken about
an hour before the
> second one.
>
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_131837.jpg
>
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130430_142757.jpg
> 
> I
guess, with 20/20 hindsight,
> I should have researched a shop
that
> does sand/media blasting but as I am
> cheap...
> 
> -rick
>
_______________________________________________
>
Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.75
> Archive:
> Forums:
>
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>
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> 
>
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> $12.75
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  1 13:09:14 2013
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Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 13:50:50 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: crk@godblessthe.us
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, after about 5 minutes, I scrape the part with a putty knife,
wiping the goo onto a paper towel.  I then usually wipe the piece with
a town moistened in lacquer thinner, leaving anything on the surface
of the metal to evaporate.  I then sand the part with sandpaper and or
the wire wheel in a drill.  I then spray the part with Restomotive's
Metal Ready.  Once dry, the part can then be primered (I use an etch
or rust neutralizing primer), followed by body filler to even out any
rust dimples and to smooth the surface.

When I first read your note I thought you meant; What do you do with
the stripped off paint and stripper?  I keep a roll of paper towels
handy and wipe the scraped-off goo from my putty knife on the paper.
That then goes into the trash.

Did I answer your question, or just write some words?

-rick

On Wed, May 1, 2013 at 12:55 PM, Clayton Kirkwood <crk@godblessthe.us> wrote:
> What do you guys do with the left over stripper? Does it dry? I know that it
> is not capable of being neutralized.
>
> Crk
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 12:46:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Shortest note ever...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't understand why you wouldn't want him in the garage with you while you
are working with toxic chemicals....! ;-)

Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Wednesday, May 1, 2013 2:53 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Shortest note ever...
 

No TD
work done today.  Grandbaby sitting.

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  1 17:52:00 2013
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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk@godblessthe.us>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, it was good prose:>) What I was meaning to get out, was, the can says
the chemicals used can not be made unposionous and therefore, care must be
used in it's disposal. When you put it on the paint, it loosens the paint
and apparently you can wipe it off. But does it stay a poisounous compound
requiring special handling at the local garbage dump, or does it evaporate
and therefore is no longer a nasty thing?

crk


-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Lindsay [mailto:richardolindsay@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 11:51 AM
To: crk@godblessthe.us
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.

Yes, after about 5 minutes, I scrape the part with a putty knife, wiping the
goo onto a paper towel.  I then usually wipe the piece with a town moistened
in lacquer thinner, leaving anything on the surface of the metal to
evaporate.  I then sand the part with sandpaper and or the wire wheel in a
drill.  I then spray the part with Restomotive's Metal Ready.  Once dry, the
part can then be primered (I use an etch or rust neutralizing primer),
followed by body filler to even out any rust dimples and to smooth the
surface.

When I first read your note I thought you meant; What do you do with the
stripped off paint and stripper?  I keep a roll of paper towels handy and
wipe the scraped-off goo from my putty knife on the paper.
That then goes into the trash.

Did I answer your question, or just write some words?

-rick

On Wed, May 1, 2013 at 12:55 PM, Clayton Kirkwood <crk@godblessthe.us>
wrote:
> What do you guys do with the left over stripper? Does it dry? I know 
> that it is not capable of being neutralized.
>
> Crk
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  1 18:49:11 2013
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Date: Wed, 01 May 2013 19:38:17 -0500
From: dwoerpel <dwoerpel@wi.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Shoulda mentioned that.  The plane was jacked up with 4 layers of heavy 
plastic under it.  It had a 12" lip around the perimeter to catch the 
rinsed stripper which was then pumped into drums to be disposed.  This 
was the 80's  and precautions were taken even then.  Only a small area 
was stripped at a time.  It was rather a mess, however.

So, there's my previous occupation..."stripper".

DW


On 5/1/2013 12:55 PM, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> What do you guys do with the left over stripper? Does it dry? I know that it
> is not capable of being neutralized.
>
> Crk
>
>
> This Week's 'Non Compos Mentis' Award: "Being in Watertown right now, the
> streets are empty. It's erie. It's as though a bomb had dropped somewhere."
> --CNN's star reporter Susan Candiotti on the scene during the man-hunt for
> the Boston bomber
> another mind like a steel trap
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of dwoerpel@wi.net
> Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2013 6:53 PM
> Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Stripping paint, uggg.
>
> Could be worse Rick!  5 of us restored the EAA's B-25 back in the 80's.  It
> had been in "Catch 22" and had 7 coats of paint and rubberized backing
> insulation on the interior.  Got it done with
> 350 gal. of methylene chloride and 6 months of Wednesday evenings and full
> Saturdays.  It's a messy job but somebody's got to do it....all part of the
> fun.
>
> Car is going to be great!
>
> Dave W.
_______________________________________________

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	VwC8jA85HW9UbNhowaNxqF1V_XkV72m9ocE.iMzp1bG6sXHejjc1V4NRxKH5
	qM0GF0w0Mnqv7jaPnoatINW_BgKRLZ4GmspeUxUMP.w8aC.q6QCNjiIOQQJT
	QrWT9wTp7sDTR8jSsGa6E11nYdgOxIQIKYDgriw0DLS9YlTNHUt7xa1PYnYR
	7Xmk7id.IdQ--
	smtp120.sbc.mail.bf1.yahoo.com with SMTP; 02 May 2013 21:39:35 +0000
	UTC
From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 16:39:34 -0500
References: <mailman.1.1367517601.32674.mgs@autox.team.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 72, Issue 2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

You lucky if all comes up after 5 minutes....




On May 2, 2013, at 1:00 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Yes, after about 5 minutes, I scrape the part with a putty knife, wiping
the
> goo onto a paper towel.  I then usually wipe the piece with a town
moistened
> in lacquer thinner, leaving anything on the surface of the metal to
> evaporate.  I then sand the part with sandpaper and or the wire wheel in a
> drill.  I then spray the part with Restomotive's Metal Ready.  Once dry,
the
> part can then be primered (I use an etch or rust neutralizing primer),
> followed by body filler to even out any rust dimples and to smooth the
> surface.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  2 20:45:22 2013
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From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com>
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 19:34:44 -0700
To: "Mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] I'm getting too good at this.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

3 Hours.

It only took three hours to replaces those damned seals at the base of the
windshield pillars.

If you recall a few weeks back, I asked if anybody had a source of seals that
would last. Nobody did, unfortunately. Since the last two sets lasted all of a
year each and were from Moss (who have no returns or complaints on this item,
FWIW), I went with TRF on the hopes that they used a different vendor.

They might. They're clearly smaller than the set I removed from the car and
have markings that the originals didn't.

A year from now, I'll know.

But hey, I removed and reinstalled the windshield in 3 hours. Including the
time to fish the socket I dropped out from under the radio. Add the bonus that
was "found the plug for the courtesy light, so the light turns on when I open
the door" and it was almost productive. Still, I could have spent those three
hours driving, or mountain biking, or...

--
Aaron
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May  3 08:28:05 2013
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From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
To: <Mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <6AE3F102-B903-44D9-9794-CA0FEB86A5BA@ece.rochester.edu><CD2DA2CF.42FB8%mvheim@sonic.net><201301300216.r0U2G9Su016315@nlpi176.prodigy.net><E1U0ZGo-0001Er-8P@theta.look.ca>
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Subject: [Mgs] MGA front wheel bearing removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys, any tips for removing the front bearings on an MGA disk brake
please?

Normally it would be a matter of drifting the bearing out from the back but
with the spacer in the hub between the front and rear bearing I can't get a
drift in.

Is it a case of drilling the bearing cage and pulling them out with a puller?

Many thanks

Tom

1960 MGA 1600 under restoration
1965 AH3000 BJ8
1987 Mini Park Lane
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May  3 11:38:40 2013
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Date: Fri, 03 May 2013 12:31:38 -0500
To: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd"
	<enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>, <Mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <6AE3F102-B903-44D9-9794-CA0FEB86A5BA@ece.rochester.edu>
	<CD2DA2CF.42FB8%mvheim@sonic.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA front wheel bearing removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Push carefully on the inner race spacer to push the outer bearing out 
the outboard end of the hub.  If you use a hammer, tap gently and go 
slowly, not to damage the ball race.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 03:25 PM 5/3/2013 +0100, Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd wrote:
>.... any tips for removing the front bearings on an MGA disk brake please?
>....
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May  4 21:57:53 2013
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Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 20:47:43 -0700
To: "Mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Oil bummer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Well. This was one way to put a damper on an otherwise nice 100 mile drive to
Spokane.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10200479511742513&l=67126cb95d

I think I'm going to make the oil pressure flexible hose a 2 or 3 year
preemptive replacement part. This could have been really really bad. I had no
oil on the dipstick when I was able to pull over.
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Aaron Whiteman" <awhitema@panix.com>, "Mgs@autox.team.net List"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 15:14:34 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
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Is that showing a new braided oil gauge hose?  Or is that the failed one? 
In any event you are likely to get a lot more problems with new rubber than 
old.  Once my first heater valve failed the next one only lasted about five 
years, same as rear slaves.  The bottom hose and the oil gauge hose still on 
the roadster came with the car 23 years ago!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I think I'm going to make the oil pressure flexible hose a 2 or 3 year
> preemptive replacement part. 
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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<< On 5/5/2013 9:14 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:

<snip>

The bottom hose and the oil gauge hose still on the roadster came with 
the car 23 years ago! >>

I agree with you on your prose in <snip>, Paul.

Is it safe to surmise that you have both those items in the boot every 
time you leave home <G> ? ? ?

Ed
Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer and OThers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just like all of the new rubber parts , junk. the orig last , the new ones
crack or fall apart in a few years.

paulo
On May 5, 2013, at 10:14 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:

> Is that showing a new braided oil gauge hose?  Or is that the failed one? In
any event you are likely to get a lot more problems with new rubber than old.
Once my first heater valve failed the next one only lasted about five years,
same as rear slaves.  The bottom hose and the oil gauge hose still on the
roadster came with the car 23 years ago!
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I think I'm going to make the oil pressure flexible hose a 2 or 3 year
>> preemptive replacement part.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com><77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
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Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 16:21:48 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
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I've been carrying spare hoses since I had one fail (not an MG) well over 30 
years ago, ditto fan belt on the same car.  Not had to use either ... yet!!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Is it safe to surmise that you have both those items in the boot every
> time you leave home <G> ? ? ?
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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer and OThers
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<< On 5/5/2013 10:04 AM, Paul Osborne wrote:

.....the new ones crack or fall apart in a few years. >>

Whilst true Paul, at least we HAVE them AND "can" plan to re-place/re-build <G> ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:					
www.justbrits.com
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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
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<< On 5/5/2013 10:21 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> Not had to use either ... yet!!  >>

Forget the "yet" Paul, it is hardly NEVER that the spare you carry are 
needed <G> -
it is what you DON'T have that's needed.  LOL ! ! !

BTDT !

BTW and I have NOT checked it out <G>:

If you take the hose adpator-to-block out, on a 6 cyl. Healey a BOLT 
may be sub'ed <G> ! !
BTDT also ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

PS:  For EVERYBODY ! !  Paul, you will notice you ONLY get ONE (1) of 
this reply ! ! !
        It IS BECAUSE I "Edit" the "To:, CCto: &/or BCCto:" box ! ! ! !
        EVERYONE SHOULD ! ! !
PPS:  And the Footer SHOULD be removed from Replys/Forwards ! ! ! 
"Someday"
          MJB might just turn the "bounce switch" back ON and mails 
WILL get bounced<G> !
         Right Mark ? ? ?
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Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 11:01:47 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: Just Brits Shop <shop@justbrits.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer and OThers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Ed, Paul, et al.,

Anyone using silicone hoses on M.G.s?  The Ferrari community switched
over to silicone a number of years back.  As for belts; A good Gates
belt, not over tightened, and free from oil (Yea, right!) should last
a very long time.  Then again, 'long time' is relative.  Ferrari
recommends belt changes - especially the timing belts - every 3-4
years or 30,000 miles.  Speaking (writing?) as one who BROKE a cam
belt on a Ferrari V8 engine, the costs of Ferrari engine repairs are
insane!  The fan belt on my TR3 is at least 15 years old.  Hoses are
new.  My M.G.TD will get the generic hoses and belts.  They're already
in the new parts box waiting.

-rick

On Sun, May 5, 2013 at 10:38 AM, " Just Brits " Shop <shop@justbrits.com> wrote:
>
> << On 5/5/2013 10:04 AM, Paul Osborne wrote:
>
> .....the new ones crack or fall apart in a few years. >>
>
> Whilst true Paul, at least we HAVE them AND "can" plan to
> re-place/re-build <G> ! ! !
>
> Ed
> Please visit MY site at:
> www.justbrits.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Unsubscribe:
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May  5 12:47:56 2013
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Date: Sun, 05 May 2013 13:22:46 -0500
To: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
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In 1986 I installed a Teflon lined oil pressure hose form Moss 
Motors, life-time guarantee.  It is still hanging in there 27 years 
and 1/4 million miles later (same as the two fuel hoses at the 
carburetors).  Teflon is good stuff in contact with 
petrochemicals.  It predates but survives our switch to 10% ethanol fuel.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.cmo


At 08:47 PM 5/4/2013 -0700, Aaron Whiteman wrote:
>Well. This was one way to put a damper on an otherwise nice 100 mile 
>drive to Spokane.
>
>https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10200479511742513&l=67126cb95d
>
>I think I'm going to make the oil pressure flexible hose a 2 or 3 
>year preemptive replacement part. This could have been really really 
>bad. I had no oil on the dipstick when I was able to pull over.
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From: Geoffrey Gallaway <geoffeg@geoffeg.org>
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 14:44:40 -0500
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Looking for a garage in the St. Louis, MO area
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

I have a '69 MG B GT that needs a place to stay for a while until I can
gather the funds to finish her restoration. Does anyone have a spare spot
in their garage it can use? Bonus points if I can visit her, maybe do a few
minor repairs here and there as I get time+money.

Please email geoffeg@geoffeg.org directly (off-list).

Thanks,
Geoff
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From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com>
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 18:16:22 -0700
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: "Mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On May 5, 2013, at 7:14 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com> wrote:

> Is that showing a new braided oil gauge hose?  Or is that the failed one? In
any event you are likely to get a lot more problems with new rubber than old.
Once my first heater valve failed the next one only lasted about five years,
same as rear slaves.  The bottom hose and the oil gauge hose still on the
roadster came with the car 23 years ago!

Sorry, was busy with Bloomsday (the reason I went to Spokane), so I couldn't
reply earlier.

The braided hose was the failed one. It failed right at the end that attaches
to the hard line to the gauge, and was spilling/spraying oil out down the line
and forward into the engine compartment.  All Four spark plug lines were
soaked, as was all the wiring for the heater fan, windscreen washer, the oil
filter, even the back of the alternator got a little.

All and all, I lost 3 quarts of oil and a little bit of trust in the car,
which is unfortunate. This hose was less than 13 years old, as I replaced the
previous one some time during the time I've owned it. I could look it up, I
suspect 2005 or so.

Does anybody sell a non-braided hose? Or are there any reasons to not go to
the local farm store and have them make me a line that might use materials
that hold up to their intended purpose?

At the moment, the engine side is capped, so I have no gauge, but also no
leaking hose.

--
Aaron
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Aaron Whiteman" <awhitema@panix.com>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 08:51:35 +0100
Cc: "Mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

How old was it?  It looks new, must have been faulty or very poor 
manufacture.  Where did it come from?

----- Original Message ----- 
The braided hose was the failed one. 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May  6 07:14:25 2013
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From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com>
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 06:06:33 -0700
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: "Mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
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Sent from my iPhone

On May 6, 2013, at 12:51 AM, "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com> wrote:

> How old was it?  It looks new, must have been faulty or very poor
manufacture.  Where did it come from?

It was somewhere between 4 and 13 years old. I may have a receipt in my
records, but I haven't started looking yet. I would have gotten it from moss.
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Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 10:50:41 -0500
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To: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
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That's the hose I used when I built the engine in my B over 5 yrs ago.  
So far, so good.

CR
On 5/5/2013 1:22 PM, Barney Gaylord wrote:
> In 1986 I installed a Teflon lined oil pressure hose form Moss Motors, 
> life-time guarantee.  It is still hanging in there 27 years and 1/4 
> million miles later (same as the two fuel hoses at the carburetors).  
> Teflon is good stuff in contact with petrochemicals.  It predates but 
> survives our switch to 10% ethanol fuel.
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.cmo
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May  6 10:06:54 2013
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To: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
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Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
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That's the hose I used when I built the engine in my B over 5 yrs ago. 
So far, so good.

CR

EDIT:  Checked my records;  I built that engine in 1999, so that Teflon 
lined hose has been on there ~14 yrs. Lord, where did all those years go?


On 5/5/2013 1:22 PM, Barney Gaylord wrote:
> In 1986 I installed a Teflon lined oil pressure hose form Moss Motors,
> life-time guarantee.  It is still hanging in there 27 years and 1/4
> million miles later (same as the two fuel hoses at the carburetors).
> Teflon is good stuff in contact with petrochemicals.  It predates but
> survives our switch to 10% ethanol fuel.
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://MGAguru.cmo
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 09:46:33 -0700
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the UK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I landed at Heathrow airport yesterday and drove to my Father's house in
the Midlands (a few miles north of Birmingham). On the way, I saw:
1. MGB -- about a '78, I think (G reg). Saw that before I had left
Heathrow.
2. Reliant Scimitar (haven't seen one of those for a long time)
3. 2 or 3  pre-war race cars. Didn't get a good look to see what they were
but could have been MGs.
4. A 3-wheeler, probably a Morgan.
5. 2 Hillman Imps. Both on the M40 near the Heritage Motor  museum.
6. Also, just past the Heritage museum,  a Clan Crusader (I think) (was
there an Imp meeting at the museum?)
7. Shelby Cobra (probably a replica).
8. Triumph Stag.
9. Healey 30000
10. 2 or 3 VW based Dune/Beach Buggies.

All were seen in the space of a few hours.

Simon
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 10:16:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>, MGS
  <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Wow! I don't think I've seen that variety of cars on ANY day outside of a
show... I did see a white Spitfire in North Andover, MA on
Saturday.... He
earned a toot from the Audi's horn...


Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Simon Matthews
<simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, May
6, 2013 12:46 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars
in the UK
 

I landed at Heathrow airport yesterday and drove to my Father's
house in
the Midlands (a few miles north of Birmingham). On the way, I saw:
1.
MGB -- about a '78, I think (G reg). Saw that before I had left
Heathrow.
2.
Reliant Scimitar (haven't seen one of those for a long time)
3. 2 or 3 
pre-war race cars. Didn't get a good look to see what they were
but could have
been MGs.
4. A 3-wheeler, probably a Morgan.
5. 2 Hillman Imps. Both on the
M40 near the Heritage Motor  museum.
6. Also, just past the Heritage museum, 
a Clan Crusader (I think) (was
there an Imp meeting at the museum?)
7. Shelby
Cobra (probably a replica).
8. Triumph Stag.
9. Healey 30000
10. 2 or 3 VW
based Dune/Beach Buggies.

All were seen in the space of a few hours.

Simon
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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Archive:
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 18:35:52 GMT
To: d_dibiase@yahoo.com, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the UK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

   A good day for sightings.   CT MG Club had 21 MGBs and an MGA at our annual
Cinco de Mayo celebration, yesterday, (Mexican celebration day, not
Hellman's), and the leader took the pack over hill and dale for some 51 miles
from the morning rendezvous.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>, MGS  <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 10:16:08 -0700 (PDT)

Wow! I don't think I've seen that variety of cars on ANY day outside of a
show... I did see a white Spitfire in North Andover, MA on
Saturday.... He
earned a toot from the Audi's horn...
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 11:53:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Breneman <david_breneman@yahoo.com>
To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

  From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>


> I landed at Heathrow
airport yesterday and drove to my Father's house in
> the Midlands (a few
miles north of Birmingham). On the way, I saw:
> 1. MGB -- about a '78, I
think (G reg). Saw that before I had left
> Heathrow.
> 2. Reliant Scimitar
(haven't seen one of those for a long time)
> 3. 2 or 3  pre-war race cars.
Didn't get a good look to see what they were
> but could have been MGs.
> 4. A
3-wheeler, probably a Morgan.
> 5. 2 Hillman Imps. Both on the M40 near the
Heritage Motor  museum.
> 6. Also, just past the Heritage museum,  a Clan
Crusader (I think) (was
> there an Imp meeting at the museum?)
> 7. Shelby
Cobra (probably a replica).
> 8. Triumph Stag.
> 9. Healey 30000
> 10. 2 or 3
VW based Dune/Beach Buggies.
> 
> All were seen in the space of a few hours.
Spectacular weather this weekend in the Puget Sound area.  Temperature
yesterday reached 80, and that's more like July weather for us.  I
had my MGA
out on the road both days but didn't see any other British
sports cars.  Lots
of Mustangs, Camaros, Corvettes, etc, though.
_______________________________________________

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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>, "MGS" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAEUYfyN3M0V0SiHyPiWTGpnHGxhCAF-k3MmVs4u6NEEkApGOYw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 11:02:20 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

You see more than me then when I'm driving around that area.  I used to see 
a few MGBs and MGFs used as daily drivers, but rarely these days.  Sunny 
Sunday mornings when I could expect to see like-minded people enjoying the 
highways and byways also seem to be in the past, these days it's just knots 
of cyclists often being inconsiderate if not offensive.

On another tack it's also noticeable how many MGFs/TFs are for sale on the 
owners mag for less than #3k, one for #500 this month.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>I landed at Heathrow airport yesterday and drove to my Father's house in
> the Midlands (a few miles north of Birmingham). On the way, I saw:
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	<01590E9EC71841FD80A3C18B586D1635@paul>
	{sentby:smtp auth 24.15.13.164 authed with sales@justbrits.com}
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the UK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 5/7/2013 5:02 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
these days it's just knots of cyclists often being inconsiderate if 
not offensive. >>

The UK is NOT alone in the above, Paul  ! ? !

There is one chap (not gent) that stops in my local.  One afternoon 
last late spring he came in an
elbowed his way to the bar between a pal of mine and I that were just 
sitting there having a pint.

So over the din I said rather loudly:  "Bob, how many pedaller points 
you get today?"

He replied: "None, damnit !  Didn't even see any of the arrogant 
bastards (L'dOL).  You??".

Got almost lucky, got 4 points, two down in the grass ! !" !  I went 
on:  "The ass-holes were wheel-
to-wheel and in-line in the CENTER of my lane.  I recognized one of 
them by his spandex <G> so I
'started' to pass - got back of my passenger door even with leader's 
front wheel and gave a good
tug to the right to my steering wheel <G>.  The one I recognized 
already had guessed what was up so
he yelled to his partner and THEY 'tugged to the right' and headed for 
the wild grass/weeds.  That stuff dislikes pedallers worse than me & 
Bob <VBG> so OFF the bikes and go for a skid on their faces/chests <G>."

So Bob says: "Ed, you should get 6 points."  I replied: "No, no, Bob.  
Would have been 6 "IF" they had
landed on tarmac and then skidded into the grass/weeds !".  Bob 
replied: "Damn, forgot.  I guess
'cause I never been lucky enough to get a two-fer !".

So the chap had apparently had enough and said:  "You guys are real 
pricks !   We have legal rights
to ride the roadways with cars."

Bob nodded to me so I said to him:  "yep, you sure do BUT you are 
required to OBEY The Rules of
The Road exactly like motor vehicles."

He got a REAL bad look & frown and just put his pint down (with 2/3rds 
left<G>) and left ! ! !

Bob and I started to LAUGH !s ! !   We were laughing so hard that the 
bartender came over and asked
why.  So Bob gave him a short version of above and he started to laugh 
but not hard enough to forget
to buy us a pint ON THE HOUSE <VBG> ! ! !

The forgoing IS a True story except no biker actually went down nor 
were any hurt (damnit) <G> ! ! !

Ed

PS:  Also Paul, ours are extremely ARROGANT ! ! !
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 09:24:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Breneman <david_breneman@yahoo.com>
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>, Simon Matthews
	<simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>, MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the UK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

 From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>

>On another tack it's also
noticeable how many MGFs/TFs are for sale on the 
>owners mag for less than
#3k, one for #500 this month.

Have they hit the 25-year mark yet?  I wonder
what it costs
to ship one to the US.
_______________________________________________

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From: "David F. Darby" <ddarby@centurytel.net>
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Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 11:59:24 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the oldest ones are from 1995.

David

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David Breneman
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 11:25 AM
To: PaulHunt73; Simon Matthews; MGS
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the UK

 From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>

>On another tack it's also
noticeable how many MGFs/TFs are for sale on the 
>owners mag for less than
#3k, one for #500 this month.

Have they hit the 25-year mark yet?  I wonder
what it costs
to ship one to the US.
_______________________________________________

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From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com>
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 17:38:00 -0700
Cc: "Mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>
	<67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul>
	<B60A8E75-9A6D-47A0-97B3-803DB36CD6F3@panix.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On May 6, 2013, at 6:06 AM, Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com> wrote:

> It was somewhere between 4 and 13 years old. I may have a receipt in my
> records, but I haven't started looking yet. I would have gotten it from
moss.

I didn't find the receipt, but I found a record that indicated the previous
hose had failed in May 2002. So the one that just failed was installed at that
time. I suppose I can't complain too much about 11 years of service.

I had the local guys that the farmers trust for hydraulics make me a new one.
They re-used the ends and fitted new hose and clamps, so I'm back to normal
now. In had them save the old hose, so I got a chance to look at it. After
removing the braided steel cover, as long as the rubber hose are held
straight, it looks good (and holds pressure when I stick my finger on one end
and blow into the other). But as I change the hose into the curved shape it
has when installed, it rapidly shows significant cracking and no longer holds
air.

The new one is made of much more substantial materials and has no braiding to
hide what's going on. Needless to say, I have a new "check" item as part of my
maintenance routines.

--
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May  7 19:07:47 2013
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Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 20:02:09 -0500
To: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
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Cc: "Mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Only 11 years?  Fooey.  If MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) of every 
part on the car was 11 years, you would be fixing something that 
failed almost daily.  I want parts that will last 50 years or more.

That is a very critical part with severe consequences when it 
fails.  When the oil is lost the crankshaft bearings may go away 
before you hear the loud knocking noises, by which time it is too 
late and very expensive to repair the damaged crankshaft.

Go for the Teflon lined hose.

$.03,

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 05:38 PM 5/7/2013 -0700, Aaron Whiteman wrote:
>On May 6, 2013, at 6:06 AM, Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com> wrote:
>
> > It was somewhere between 4 and 13 years old. I may have a receipt in my
> > records, but I haven't started looking yet. I would have gotten it from
>moss.
>
>I didn't find the receipt, but I found a record that indicated the previous
>hose had failed in May 2002. So the one that just failed was installed at that
>time. I suppose I can't complain too much about 11 years of service.
>
>I had the local guys that the farmers trust for hydraulics make me a new one.
>They re-used the ends and fitted new hose and clamps, so I'm back to normal
>now. In had them save the old hose, so I got a chance to look at it. After
>removing the braided steel cover, as long as the rubber hose are held
>straight, it looks good (and holds pressure when I stick my finger on one end
>and blow into the other). But as I change the hose into the curved shape it
>has when installed, it rapidly shows significant cracking and no longer holds
>air.
>
>The new one is made of much more substantial materials and has no braiding to
>hide what's going on. Needless to say, I have a new "check" item as part of my
>maintenance routines.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  8 14:43:57 2013
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Date: Wed, 08 May 2013 15:37:44 -0500
To: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>
	<67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul>
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	<001e01ce4c15$1eb22a60$5c167f20$@planet.nl>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Opinions, as a matter of personal preference, are worth $.02
Opinions based on groundless speculation or rumor are worth $.01
Opinions well founded from the School Of Hard Knocks are worth $.03

Barney


At 07:54 PM 5/8/2013 +0200, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>Barney,
>
>You've become quite expensive!
>Used to be 2 cents if I remember it well....
>....


>-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
>Barney Gaylord
>8 mei 2013 3:02
>....
>
>Only 11 years?  Fooey.  If MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) of every part
>on the car was 11 years, you would be fixing something that failed almost
>daily.  I want parts that will last 50 years or more.
>....
>Go for the Teflon lined hose.
>
>$.03,
>
>Barney Gaylord
>1958 MGA with an attitude
>http://MGAguru.com


>At 05:38 PM 5/7/2013 -0700, Aaron Whiteman wrote:
> >On May 6, 2013, at 6:06 AM, Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com> wrote:
> >....
> >I didn't find the receipt, but I found a record that indicated the
> >previous hose had failed in May 2002. So the one that just failed was
> >installed at that time. I suppose I can't complain too much about 11 years
>of service.
> >....
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May  8 17:45:07 2013
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From: "Stephen West-Fisher" <steve@coastaldatasystems.com>
To: "'Mgs@autox.team.net List'" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
	<9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com>
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Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 19:42:39 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5LiC4Epn9wOBEkRLKtO6lfaLKZdgAvUA1Q
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

My memory could be failing me but I believe in aircraft similar hoses have a
7 year lifespan - at that point they are supposed to be replaced. However,
it is not a requirement. I've had my B since '84, still has the same hoses.
Next service I may pull and inspect them.

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Barney Gaylord
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 9:02 PM
To: Aaron Whiteman
Cc: Mgs@autox.team.net List
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer

Only 11 years?  Fooey.  If MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) of every part
on the car was 11 years, you would be fixing something that failed almost
daily.  I want parts that will last 50 years or more.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 09:21:22 2013
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 10:18:50 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Back of the tub
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

First of all today, I wish to express my thanks to all the folks who
have written to me offering advice and encouragement.  Thank you!  You
are the BEST.

I now write to share a few pictures of the refinishing of the rear of
the tub.  I'm doing as much work as possible with the tub still on the
frame, so as to protect fragile metal and preserve alignment.  Here's
how the back of the tub looked after removing the fuel tank.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130508_141536.jpg

Everything is structurally strong, but there is quite a bit of surface
rust on the tub near where the top of the tank aligns.  Along the
right rear, there is also a strip of surface rust, obvious in the
picture.

Here is the same area with the paint stripped, but before sanding.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130508_150441.jpg

Before closing down work yesterday, I sanded and sprayed the bare
metal with MetalReady to coat the remaining rust with zinc.  First
thing this morning, I washed down the metal to remove deposits left
behind from the MetalReady, and dried the metal with a heat gun.
Later this morning I put a coat of primer on the metal and a thin coat
on the wood, just to encourage adhesion of the paint.

The rusty bits were primered with rusty metal primer while the bare
metal was painted with regular automotive primer.  Here's how it
looked, right after the primers were applied.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130509_080143.jpg

And here's a look at the left rear corner with the primer drying.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130509_080156.jpg

I took this picture about an hour later.  The regular primer has dried
but the anti-rust primer dries much more slowly.  You can easily see
where the rusty metal primer was applied.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130509_093433.jpg

Here's that sale left rear corner with the primers mostly dried.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130509_093444.jpg

Here's another picture of the left rear tub, above the rear wing.
This is going to paint NICELY.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130509_093451.jpg

Moving on, here's how the tank looks, now that it has been washed out
with soap and water.  That is not the final solution but rather, it is
the process to make the tank a 'container', not a 'bomb'!

Michael Balahutrak (PopeyMike) shared with me a great technique for
restoring the tank.  I'll follow his advice and report the progress.
Thank you Mike!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130509_093638.jpg

Off now to play with the grandson. :-)

-rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 10:03:18 2013
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From: Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:00:29 -0500
To: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have an inductive timing light and a dwell meter. I need to determine
when my points are open or closed. Can I use one of the above to do this
and if so, how?

Where exactly do I hook the alligator clips to use each one?


Thanks,
Monte 79B with points dizzy
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Subject: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
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Hello, I am looking for recommendations for body shop or other to help
complete restoration of a TD.  Rolling chassis is completed. Body is off in
pieces so requires prep and painting, maybe some minor dent repair and
re-assembly on frame.  Any suggestions appreciated.

Alan Kellogg
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	09 May 2013 12:30:46 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 12:30:28 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: Alan Kellogg <aekell@aol.com>, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <CAOc+-dw=9z2gmFLdsRQPSBD9xPTH+CY7CKXVKWcbsmECC+ndiQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<8D01AE7746284C0-D2C-4B117@webmail-vd013.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Automotive Restorations in Stratford, CT does very nice work.  It is 
a large shop with a lot of skilled people.  Brooklands Engineering 
Works, also in Stratford, is at the opposite end of the spectrum.  It 
is a small shop run by Jim Perman.  Jim is meticulous and does very 
nice work as well.  Unfortunately, neither of these like to work for 
free, so expect to spend some significant money.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net


At 12:14 PM 5/9/2013, Alan Kellogg wrote:
>Hello, I am looking for recommendations for body shop or other to help
>complete restoration of a TD.  Rolling chassis is completed. Body is off in
>pieces so requires prep and painting, maybe some minor dent repair and
>re-assembly on frame.  Any suggestions appreciated.
>
>Alan Kellogg
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Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:32:55 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>
Cc: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Is the dwell meter analog or digital?


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:00 AM, Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>wrote:

> I have an inductive timing light and a dwell meter. I need to determine
> when my points are open or closed. Can I use one of the above to do this
> and if so, how?
>
> Where exactly do I hook the alligator clips to use each one?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Monte 79B with points dizzy
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 10:50:47 2013
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	09 May 2013 12:48:18 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 12:48:06 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
	mail.com>
To: Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>, MG list
  <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Check out this video on static timing an MG:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpp67aqwM2Y

For what you want to do, it might be possible to use a dwell meter, 
depending on the settings available, but a simple test light is 
easier.    Light on = points closed.  Light off = points open.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 12:00 PM 5/9/2013, Monte Jane Morris wrote:
>I have an inductive timing light and a dwell meter. I need to determine
>when my points are open or closed. Can I use one of the above to do this
>and if so, how?
>
>Where exactly do I hook the alligator clips to use each one?
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 10:57:35 2013
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 11:53:46 -0500
To: Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>, MG list
  <mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
	mail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] points
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Youi need a test light.  Very cheap tool.  See here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/ts129.htm

The contact points are switching the coil wire to ground.  With 
ignition on, when points are open there will be power on the wire 
from coil to distributor.  When points are closed the wire is 
grounded and will have no power, 0-volts, no light.

Alternately, you can disconnect the wire from coil to distributor, 
connect the test light to a live power source (lower fuse for 
instance), and touich the ptobe to the distributor terminal.  When 
points are closed it complets the circuit to ground, and youie get light.

You can also test points with an ohm meter connected between the 
distributor input terminal and ground on the engine block.  With 
points open it will read 50-megaohms (open circuit).  With points 
closed it should read 0-ohms (short to ground).  Resistance with 
points closed should never be higher tham 1/4-ohm 
(250-milliohms).  If resistance is too high you need to clean the 
contact points or fix a faulty connection.  It couid be corroded 
points, or a dirty wire connector, or bad contact between distributor 
body and engine block.


At 11:00 AM 5/9/2013 -0500, Monte Jane Morris wrote:
>I have an inductive timing light and a dwell meter. I need to 
>determine when my points are open or closed. Can I use one of the 
>above to do this and if so, how?
>
>Where exactly do I hook the alligator clips to use each one?
>....
_______________________________________________

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	<0MMJ00BC0IOG1Q20@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 10:07:29 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
Cc: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>, Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve said:

>
>   Light on = points closed.  Light off = points open.
>
>
>> Barney said:
>>The contact points are switching the coil wire to ground.  With ignition
on, when points are open there will be power on the wire from coil to
distributor.  When points are closed the wire is grounded and will have no
power, 0-volts, no light.

One of these is not like the other.  :-)
You can use a dwell meter if you don't have a test light.  With the points
closed, the meter will read 0 degrees of dwell, with the points open it
will read 90 degrees.
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From: Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 12:33:06 -0500
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Cc: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

It's analog.


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:32 AM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>wrote:

> Is the dwell meter analog or digital?
>
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:00 AM, Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> I have an inductive timing light and a dwell meter. I need to determine
>> when my points are open or closed. Can I use one of the above to do this
>> and if so, how?
>>
>> Where exactly do I hook the alligator clips to use each one?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Monte 79B with points dizzy
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 11:46:14 2013
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	09 May 2013 13:43:41 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 13:43:36 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
	mail.com>
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
References: <CAHEsxHpRc9=HXskU0hMbQ0oSCx4QMtzUZQrAZ2zWXGQK6T5PFg@mail.gmail.com>
	<0MMJ00BC0IOG1Q20@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<CACOF-TpD7meh5j0xY2wV4opFY+TaJD7n7AbCqs2BWq2s-ramnw@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>, Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

We are both right!  Read the rest of Barney's post and you will see 
the next thing he says is:

Alternately, you can disconnect the wire from coil to distributor, 
connect the test light to a live power source (lower fuse for 
instance), and touch the probe to the distributor terminal.  When 
points are closed it completes the circuit to ground, and you get light.

This is the method shown in the video.

-Steve

At 01:07 PM 5/9/2013, Richard Ewald wrote:



>Steve said:
>
>   Light on = points closed.  Light off = points open.
>
>
>Barney said:
> >>The contact points are switching the coil wire to ground.  With 
> ignition on, when points are open there will be power on the wire 
> from coil to distributor.  When points are closed the wire is 
> grounded and will have no power, 0-volts, no light.
>
>One of these is not like the other.  :-)
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From: Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 12:55:29 -0500
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Cc: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, Thanks.  I do have a test light!
Monte


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:33 PM, Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>wrote:

> It's analog.
>
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:32 AM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Is the dwell meter analog or digital?
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:00 AM, Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> I have an inductive timing light and a dwell meter. I need to determine
>>> when my points are open or closed. Can I use one of the above to do this
>>> and if so, how?
>>>
>>> Where exactly do I hook the alligator clips to use each one?
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Monte 79B with points dizzy
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 14:50:57 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: David Breneman <david_breneman@yahoo.com>, MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAEUYfyN3M0V0SiHyPiWTGpnHGxhCAF-k3MmVs4u6NEEkApGOYw@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know if you could get a safety sticker on one.  Getting is 
smogged, fer instance.:-(

CR
On 5/7/2013 11:24 AM, David Breneman wrote:
>   From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
>
>> On another tack it's also
> noticeable how many MGFs/TFs are for sale on the
>> owners mag for less than
> #3k, one for #500 this month.
>
> Have they hit the 25-year mark yet?  I wonder
> what it costs
> to ship one to the US.
> _______________________________________________
>
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> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 16:52:45 2013
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Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 17:49:16 -0500
To: David Ambrose <stargazer1@cox.net>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com>
	<77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul>
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Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know if the current Moss oil signal hose is Teflon lined.  It 
doesn't say that in the catalog listing.  Time to ask Moss.  Got your 
ears up, Kelvin?

It seems like such a trivial thing to do in production, and shouldn't 
add much to the cost of the raw hose (compared to total cost of 
manufacturing the hose assembly).  However, while fuel hoses run 
under 10 psi, the oil hoses run up to 100 psi, and hydraulic clutch 
hose runs about 250 psi, and brake hoses more like 500 psi.  Brake 
hoses have thick wall and very small bore size (which is okay for 
very low flow rate).  Clutch hose has larger bore for higher flow 
rate (for quick clutch return).  Fuel hoses have much larger bore and 
thinner wall.  These are all different creatures, so they don't 
necessarily all come from the same production factory.


At 03:22 PM 5/9/2013 -0700, you wrote:
>....
>I looked for that hose in the Moss catalog and don't see it. Do you 
>happen to know the part number?
>....


>On 5/7/2013 6:02 PM, Barney Gaylord wrote:
>>Only 11 years?  Fooey.  If MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) of 
>>every part on the car was 11 years, you would be fixing something 
>>that failed almost daily.  I want parts that will last 50 years or more.
>>
>>That is a very critical part with severe consequences when it fails.
>>When the oil is lost the crankshaft bearings may go away before you 
>>hear the loud knocking noises, by which time it is too late and 
>>very expensive to repair the damaged crankshaft.
>>
>>Go for the Teflon lined hose.
>>....
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May  9 17:40:45 2013
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From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com>
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 16:37:58 -0700
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To: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On May 9, 2013, at 3:49 PM, Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com> wrote:

> I don't know if the current Moss oil signal hose is Teflon lined.  It
doesn't say that in the catalog listing.  Time to ask Moss.  Got your ears up,
Kelvin?

Certainly the one that failed in my car was not.

> It seems like such a trivial thing to do in production, and shouldn't add
much to the cost of the raw hose (compared to total cost of manufacturing the
hose assembly).  However, while fuel hoses run under 10 psi, the oil hoses run
up to 100 psi, and hydraulic clutch hose runs about 250 psi, and brake hoses
more like 500 psi.  Brake hoses have thick wall and very small bore size
(which is okay for very low flow rate).  Clutch hose has larger bore for
higher flow rate (for quick clutch return).  Fuel hoses have much larger bore
and thinner wall.  These are all different creatures, so they don't
necessarily all come from the same production factory.

The hose that failed on my car is a single-walled unreinforced rubber tube
that was then covered in braided steel. The outside diameter is 5/16", with a
1/16" thick wall (3/16" inner diameter).

I've posted a picture here:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/8723754053_7662f98784_c.jpg
(or larger version:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/8723754053_13e399e196_o.jpg)

I was actually pretty shocked at how small the tube was under that steel mesh.
Fuel line, even the stuff that is designed for carbs instead of FI has
significantly more structure.

--
Aaron
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Aaron Whiteman" <awhitema@panix.com>
References: <80DEF434-FD14-43C0-94B2-95011D9083ED@panix.com><77B32E99517E4E1AB968605EEADDEBF7@paul><9AB1F4AD-5F47-4882-ACD7-74E4CCA6A228@panix.com><67581E00DA7F4C45A852FAB847BB6833@paul><B60A8E75-9A6D-47A0-97B3-803DB36CD6F3@panix.com><D6B53B73-7CF2-488A-BE21-372EED5BE87E@panix.com><201305080102.r48129Wi002700@nlpi176.prodigy.net><518C219C.3000606@cox.net><201305092249.r49MnthP023749@nlpi162.prodigy.net>
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 09:04:23 +0100
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Oil bummer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have to say, mesh reinforced or not, I'm not surprised it failed 
considering it needs to take at least 80psi.  My 73 roadster all-rubber 
hose, which is quite possibly original as it is identical in appearance to 
my 75 V8 hose, is just over 1/2" OD and just over 1/8" ID i.e. a wall 
thickness of about 3/8" i.e. six times yours!  As a pal recently had a gauge 
hose failure, although in his case it was a pin-hole in the body, I've been 
looking at alternatives given the age of mine.  Steveson 
http://www.stevsonmotors.co.uk/oilpressurepipes&hoses.html do both rubber 
based and Teflon for competition, but with the Teflon only being #12 to the 
#7 for rubber it would seem foolish not to pay the extra fiver, even though 
their rubber-based come from Cohline of Germany who are OE suppliers to 
Mercedes, BMW, Porsche etc.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> The hose that failed on my car is a single-walled unreinforced rubber tube
> that was then covered in braided steel. The outside diameter is 5/16", 
> with a
> 1/16" thick wall (3/16" inner diameter).
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 05:03:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Alan Kellogg <aekell@aol.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I recommend Rick Lindsey's shop in Houston ;-)

Dan D
'65B
'76B
central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Alan Kellogg <aekell@aol.com>
To:
mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 12:14 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
 

Hello, I am
looking for recommendations for body shop or other to help
complete
restoration of a TD.  Rolling chassis is completed. Body is off in
pieces so
requires prep and painting, maybe some minor dent repair and
re-assembly on
frame.  Any suggestions appreciated.

Alan Kellogg
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	<8D01AE7746284C0-D2C-4B117@webmail-vd013.sysops.aol.com>
	<1368187385.33153.YahooMailNeo@web164904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 08:12:22 -0400
From: Jim Tinkham <tink5775@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net"
	<mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

East Coast Collision and Restoration in Mt Holly VT does outstanding work.
They've been at Stowe the last few years with some of their in progress
projects.  Talk to Jason, you won't be disappointed with anything he does.

http://www.eastcoastcollisionandrestoration.com/

On Fri, May 10, 2013 at 8:03 AM, Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I recommend Rick Lindsey's shop in Houston ;-)
>
> Dan D
> '65B
> '76B
> central NJ USA
> ________________________________
>  From: Alan Kellogg <aekell@aol.com>
> To:
> mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 12:14 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
>
>
> Hello, I am
> looking for recommendations for body shop or other to help
> complete
> restoration of a TD.  Rolling chassis is completed. Body is off in
> pieces so
> requires prep and painting, maybe some minor dent repair and
> re-assembly on
> frame.  Any suggestions appreciated.
>
> Alan Kellogg
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 10 07:38:30 2013
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 08:35:55 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5NdmLWvEBNVDVNR2OBHNlMoJfT3wACrT9Q
	a=jaTmBQM0IqgA:10 a=3WPTVEtZbjMA:10 a=kj9zAlcOel0A:10
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion
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Hear, hear!

DFD

-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dan DiBiase
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 7:03 AM
To: Alan Kellogg; mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Help Connecticut TD project needs completion

I recommend Rick Lindsey's shop in Houston ;-)

Dan D
'65B
'76B
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 10 14:21:07 2013
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Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 16:18:07 -0400
From: "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Z-USANET-MsgId: XID985ReJusH7760X31
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the  UK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

>I don't know if you could get a safety sticker on one. Getting is
>smogged, fer instance.:-(

>> On another tack it's also
> noticeable how many MGFs/TFs are for sale on the
>> owners mag for less than
> #3k, one for #500 this month.
>
> Have they hit the 25-year mark yet? I wonder
> what it costs
> to ship one to the US.

MG RV8 introduced in 1992, so they hit the 25-year mark in 2017
MGF introduced in 1995, so it hits the 25-year mark in 2020

I presume that the prices for both have fallen since Australia tightened up
their restrictions on classic imports.

Here is detail on how to get the car into the USA legally. Getting it legally
registered for road use in your own state is another problem -- easier in
some
than others:
https://help.cbp.gov/app/answers/detail/a_id/278/~/importing-classic-or-antiq
ue-vehicles-%2F-cars-for-personal-use

Douglas
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From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 09:42:41 +0200
Content-language: nl
Thread-index: Ac5OGjB9IlHS/SmDTdGtEyGPAnsAtw==
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Subject: [Mgs] Prewar MG makes lots of damage
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http://www.telegraaf.nl/binnenland/21554335/__Oldtimer_rijdt_feesttent_in__.
html 

 

An MG 1938 drophead coupe made a lot of damage yesterday at a big historic
rally (over 600 people) event in the Netherlands.

Without the driver the MG started to drive and went into a big partytent.

In the tent several people were hit by the car. 

Some of these still are in hospital.

Weird thing was, that the driver was not behind the steering wheel.

 

Hope this does not mean, that MG's will get a bad name overhere.

 

Cheers,

Hans
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <792ReJuRH5136S02.1368217087@web02.cms.usa.net>
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 10:07:27 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Nice weather has brought out the classic cars in the UK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I doubt changes in Australian import rules would be the cause of the current 
low prices in the UK, they were sold new there from 1997.

http://www.goauto.com.au/mellor/mellor.nsf/ganews?readform&make=MG&model=MGF&start=2

----- Original Message ----- 
> I presume that the prices for both have fallen since Australia tightened 
> up
> their restrictions on classic imports.
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <001801ce4e1b$1e4e3b10$5aeab130$@planet.nl>
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 10:15:49 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Prewar MG makes lots of damage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Rolling or actually driving?  (I know, it would need a hill to roll, and 
this is Holland ...).  I've known a couple of cases where vehicles have 
started cranking themselves along when a fault developed in the starting 
system and the driver had left it in gear.  It's one of the reasons I've 
fitted battery cut-off switches to all my cars.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> An MG 1938 drophead coupe made a lot of damage yesterday at a big historic
> rally (over 600 people) event in the Netherlands.
>
> Without the driver the MG started to drive and went into a big partytent.
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>, <MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 11:35:51 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB wiring harness
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

A pal has a harness for a 1969 but it seems to be for the ultra-rare 'Cyclops'
model!

The harness stops by the right-hand headlight, where there are six wires for
the lights plus two wires in a tail for the horns, there is nothing going
across the front of the car to the left-hand headlight.  He does have a
two-wire sub-harness which looks like it is for the second horn, which was
optional until 1970 so I can understand a sub-harness for that, but should
there be a sub-harness for the left-hand lighting as well?  That seems to make
no sense.

PaulH.
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From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'PaulHunt73'" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <001801ce4e1b$1e4e3b10$5aeab130$@planet.nl>
	<CA37880198694D5DA804284B5A53AA9D@paul>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Prewar MG makes lots of damage
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Driving Paul. Somehow it seems the car did not want to start initially. So
the driver went out for a look at the front of the car - I assume under the
bonnet. Suddenly the car started to drive without the driver behind the
wheel.
A passenger still was sitting in his seat, but apparently could not prevent
the damage.

So your thoughts are not far away I think.
I leave my MG always in neutral, when I'm out of the GT.
A cut-off switch is a good extra to consider...

Cheers,
Hans


-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: PaulHunt73 [mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com] 
Verzonden: zaterdag 11 mei 2013 11:16
Aan: Hans Duinhoven; mgs@autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Prewar MG makes lots of damage

Rolling or actually driving?  (I know, it would need a hill to roll, and
this is Holland ...).  I've known a couple of cases where vehicles have
started cranking themselves along when a fault developed in the starting
system and the driver had left it in gear.  It's one of the reasons I've
fitted battery cut-off switches to all my cars.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> An MG 1938 drophead coupe made a lot of damage yesterday at a big 
> historic rally (over 600 people) event in the Netherlands.
>
> Without the driver the MG started to drive and went into a big partytent.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 08:01:59 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: paulhunt73@virginmedia.com, h.duinhoven@planet.nl,
  mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Prewar MG makes lots of damage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey Paul, et al.,

Wouldn't a '37 have a mechanical starter switch like the T-Series cars? B Therefore, self starting could only happen if the switch was stuck 'almost' making AND the ignition was left on, OR, the car died when parked and the owner left the ignition switced on. B Only a small push, if in gear, could have started thr car! B Hummm...

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.

-------- Original message --------
From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com> 
Date: 05/11/2013  4:15 AM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>,mgs@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Prewar MG makes lots of damage 
 
Rolling or actually driving?B  (I know, it would need a hill to roll, and 
this is Holland ...).B  I've known a couple of cases where vehicles have 
started cranking themselves along when a fault developed in the starting 
system and the driver had left it in gear.B  It's one of the reasons I've 
fitted battery cut-off switches to all my cars.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> An MG 1938 drophead coupe made a lot of damage yesterday at a big historic
> rally (over 600 people) event in the Netherlands.
>
> Without the driver the MG started to drive and went into a big partytent.
_______________________________________________

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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 11:23:39 -0500
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've seen the subject of delayed startup oil pressure on here which I have
been experiencing on my 65 B.   I have had to turn it over without the choke
but it takes quite awhile to build up pressure-  15 seconds or so on running.

I'm using a WIX 51374 oil filter which is the filter for an the 75-80 B and it
fits nicely with the oil cooler and adapter.

This filter has the anti drain back valve and WIX filters are supposed to be
very high quality and use a teflon drain back valve which is touted as
better.

Any other causes of a delay in oil pressure?  I thought about it just being
air in the line but the knocking precludes that.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 12 11:00:04 2013
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 09:56:55 -0700
To: mgs@autox.team.net
From: Don <don@napanet.net>
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On the subject of oil pressure delay . . .  My MGs have this issue to 
some extent, but at least I can monitor engine speed with the choke 
knob, and keep RPMs very low until I see the gauge begins showing oil pressure.

I have a '01 Miata with only 18k miles on the car.  If it sits for a 
few days, and I start it, the engine would race and I could hear all 
kinds of rattling going on.  I know it's lack of oil pressure causing 
this for a few moments.  It was a helpless feeling because I couldn't 
reduce RPMs since everything is automated.  I must have had some kind 
of psychic revelation or something, but I figured out a 
solution.  When I first crank the engine, I hold the gas pedal to the 
floor for a few moments and the engine does not fire.   Then I crank 
the car again but with my foot off the gas pedal.  It starts then, 
but has had oil pressure build up from the first cranking, because I 
don't get the rattling sounds now.  Not sure why the engine does not 
start with gas pedal to the floor, but I think this procedure will 
save my engine from an early demise.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars  
_______________________________________________

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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 17:02:11 GMT
To: mike@duvallvideo.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Mike,
   51068 is the one I use on my 1972 18V engine.  Though an inverted spin- on,
it seems to stay filled and I get pressure on the gauge with a second or two
of start-up, even after a couple of weeks inactivity.
   Is 51374 the filter recommended by maker of the spin-on adapter?
    Causes of low pressure can be worn rod bearings, worn mains, worn rocker
bushings and shaft, but slow pressure suggests something between pickup in the
sump and delivery to the bearings--screen, pump, relief valve, filter.  For
six bucks, I would look to the filter first.
Bob





---------- Original Message ----------
From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 11:23:39 -0500

I've seen the subject of delayed startup oil pressure on here which I have
been experiencing on my 65 B.   I have had to turn it over without the choke
but it takes quite awhile to build up pressure-  15 seconds or so on running.

I'm using a WIX 51374 oil filter which is the filter for an the 75-80 B and
it
fits nicely with the oil cooler and adapter.

This filter has the anti drain back valve and WIX filters are supposed to be
very high quality and use a teflon drain back valve which is touted as
better.

Any other causes of a delay in oil pressure?  I thought about it just being
air in the line but the knocking precludes that.
_______________________________________________

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 13:05:48 -0500
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] identifying spin on adapter for 65 B
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone recognize this spin on oil filter adapter for a 65 B?   I can't
find the purchase information on it.


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/k0st24z4jl56hi7/EaA2lvINZj
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 14:20:19 -0400
From: <dannyvarnado@cox.net>
To: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>, mgs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Has the engine been rebuilt? In the rebuild gasket set there are two different oil pump gaskets.  If the wrong one is used, it doesn't cover all of the holes causing a delay in the oil pump getting suction.  The result is a delay in establishing oil pressure. 

---- Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com> wrote: 
> I've seen the subject of delayed startup oil pressure on here which I have
> been experiencing on my 65 B.   I have had to turn it over without the choke
> but it takes quite awhile to build up pressure-  15 seconds or so on running.
> 
> I'm using a WIX 51374 oil filter which is the filter for an the 75-80 B and it
> fits nicely with the oil cooler and adapter.
> 
> This filter has the anti drain back valve and WIX filters are supposed to be
> very high quality and use a teflon drain back valve which is touted as
> better.
> 
> Any other causes of a delay in oil pressure?  I thought about it just being
> air in the line but the knocking precludes that.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 11:34:20 -0700
To: mgs@autox.team.net
From: Don <don@napanet.net>
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Has the engine been rebuilt? In the rebuild gasket set there are two 
different oil pump gaskets.  If the wrong one is used, it doesn't 
cover all of the holes causing a delay in the oil pump getting 
suction.  The result is a delay in establishing oil pressure.



I think if that gasket is the wrong one, there will be no oil 
pressure at all.  I rebuilt my '67 B GT engine years ago, and when I 
went to start the engine, no oil pressure.  I tried a lot of things 
to fix it, and finally took it apart only to discover that I had used 
the wrong oil pump gasket on assembly.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA
1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars  
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 12 13:31:28 2013
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 14:28:43 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
	{sentby:smtp auth 24.15.13.164 authed with sales@justbrits.com}
Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 5/12/2013 11:23 AM, Duvall Video Productions wrote:

but it takes quite awhile to build up pressure-  15 seconds or so on running. >>

That  is just "too long", Mike.

All you gents have missed something rather important, IMHO.

<quote>
...but the knocking precludes that.
</quote>

As in rod or main knock ??  spun a main bearing --- # 3 or 4 ??

There should be NO 'knock' even at 15 seconds ! ! !  Personally,  I 
would stop even trying
to start it; drop the pan and check ALL bearing starting with Mains.   
PITA, but it can be
done <G>.

You might try one thing which may/may not help.  Go to my site  and 
--->"Various Articles"
--->Compression Test for 4 cyls.  Run the Test (with coil disconnected 
<G>), fill out, Scan
and send to me.  I'll 'plug your #s' in and return.  "Might" show a 
'weakness'.
I'll also put up on my site for all to view.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:                    www.justbrits.com
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 17:48:15 -0500
From: "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness@stclegal.com>
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To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] MGA generator bracket failure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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My MGA 1600 seemed to be overheating a bit more than usual at stop 
lights.  So I opened the bonnet and lo and behold  -- both the water 
pump and rear brackets to the generator had sheared off.  What could 
cause this?  Do I need to (or should I) replace the water pump or can it 
be welded (after removal)?
-- 
e-mail signature Robert Guinness
Guinness & Buehler, LLC
2850 West Clay St., Suite 210
St. Charles, MO 63301
636-947-7711

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From: John <mgmagnette@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:20:23 -0400
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Mgs] Anyone going to Carlisle next weekend?
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Just wondering :)

-John
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 12 21:27:52 2013
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Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 22:19:25 -0500
To: "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness@stclegal.com>, MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <51901C2F.3030308@stclegal.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA generator bracket failure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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If it was an aluminum body water pump that failure is common.  I 
broke two of those myself in 1997.  Kind of suprised the rear bracket 
broke.  If it was an iron body water pump I'm way more suprised, as I 
have never heard of one of those breaking like that.


At 05:48 PM 5/12/2013 -0500, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
>My MGA 1600 seemed to be overheating a bit more than usual at stop
>lights.  So I opened the bonnet and lo and behold  -- both the water
>pump and rear brackets to the generator had sheared off.  What could
>cause this?  Do I need to (or should I) replace the water pump or can it
>be welded (after removal)?
>....
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 21:41:57 -0600
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Mgs] Bought a '78 B yesterday!
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I towed it home from Nevada today. Time to get to know the new one now!

Andrew
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	Mon, 13 May 2013 11:16:35 +0100
From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <6AE3F102-B903-44D9-9794-CA0FEB86A5BA@ece.rochester.edu>
	<CD2DA2CF.42FB8%mvheim@sonic.net>
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:16:35 +0100
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Subject: [Mgs] MGA Master Cylinger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi guys, I've just starter to rebuild the master cylinder on the A and have
ordered a complete rebuild kit of seals etc. Over the weekend I noticed the
top gasket is different to the old one I have and questioned this with the
company I bought the kit from. They have come back to me and said that the
master cylinder I have is from an MGZA, ZB and not an MGA.

Does any one know if this was a common replacement and is it detremental in
any way apart from not being original? Are the internal seals the same?

Thanks

Tom
1960 MGA (in total rebuild)
1965 AH 3000 MKIII
1988 Mini Park Lane.
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 08:10:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Bought a '78 B yesterday!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Congrats! What kind of shape is it in?

Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To:
mgs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 11:41 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Bought
a '78 B yesterday!
 

I towed it home from Nevada today. Time to get to know
the new one now!

Andrew
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 13 10:33:52 2013
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	UTC
From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:21:46 -0500
References: <mailman.2394.1368458027.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] delayed oil pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I might not be describing this well,   15 seconds may be an over statement but
the delay is too long- long enough to cause a knock--  the knocking isn't
there all the time.

-Wear was suggested--   it had a rebuild (over a year ago) and I have really
good oil pressure 40 to 60 pounds --   new oil pump....

-I don't think a spun bearing would cause low oil pressure at
startup....correct me if I'm wrong but I think the knock is a symptom of low
pressure at first.

-wrong gasket was suggested but this developed-- didn't happen year ago.

- The oil filter is the early hanging type so I don't think it is the filter.
If the filter simply bypassed, I don't think that would effect oil pressure

- problem with oil pick up or gasket?  hmmmm   ---

-- could a stuck open relief valve or way too weak pressure spring cause this?
If it were open the pump might have to get to maximum output before I got much
pressure....   What do you think?




On May 13, 2013, at 10:13 AM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> All you gents have missed something rather important, IMHO.
>
> <quote>
> ...but the knocking precludes that.
> </quote>
>
> As in rod or main knock ??  spun a main bearing --- # 3 or 4 ??
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 13 14:44:37 2013
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User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/12.36.0.130206
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:14:12 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Inspired...or shamed
Thread-Index: Ac5QFm7gY91MPdQa4UywdIo+gmHxvg==
Subject: [Mgs] Inspired...or shamed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

...by Rick's litany of progress, I actually made an improvement on my MGB
this weekend.

Since before I owned it (at least 25 years) my 66 MGB has sported a 1973
grill. It was somewhat damaged, and recently the badge disappeared.
Saturday, I was looking at it and a light bulb went on -- somebody once gave
me a damaged Mk. 1 grill -- maybe it has a badge. A brief search in the
rafters found it.

It actually wasn't bad -- better than the 73, for the most part, except the
pot metal center post was broken. It turned out the post is interchangeable.
Some twisting to straighten the surround, and a quick swap, and I finally
had the correct grill on the B.

I think it was smiling at me...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 13 16:05:02 2013
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:02:08 -0500
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mvheim@sonic.net, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Inspired...or shamed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Congratulations! B And thank you for the kind words.

Today's update coming shortly.

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just like a BlackBerry.

-------- Original message --------
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net> 
Date: 05/13/2013  3:14 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Mgs] Inspired...or shamed 
 
...by Rick's litany of progress, I actually made an improvement on my MGB
this weekend.

Since before I owned it (at least 25 years) my 66 MGB has sported a 1973
grill. It was somewhat damaged, and recently the badge disappeared.
Saturday, I was looking at it and a light bulb went on -- somebody once gave
me a damaged Mk. 1 grill -- maybe it has a badge. A brief search in the
rafters found it.

It actually wasn't bad -- better than the 73, for the most part, except the
pot metal center post was broken. It turned out the post is interchangeable.
Some twisting to straighten the surround, and a quick swap, and I finally
had the correct grill on the B.

I think it was smiling at me...


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 13 16:37:45 2013
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:34:51 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Working on the body
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Today was a good day in the garage, but it started out kinda weak.
Please allow me to explain.  The first quest this morning was to load
the right front and rear wings, plus the a running board, into the SUV
and headed off to the painter.  A quick stop for coffee had me in a
nice mood.  Upon arrival at the paint shop, the guy met me out front
and said, "My boss told me that we're not taking in any more work."
When questioned further, he stated that he didn't know if that was
because guys were going on vacation, or if the shop was closing!
Either way, I don't have a painter - right now anyway.  Not to worry.
Lots of options here in Houston.

I did get a chance to look through the PPG color book and found the
closest thing to Autumn Red that they offer.  I then went to Tasco and
bought a quart of that color in their ShopLine product.  Its a
urothane paint, single stage, and none too expensive.  I've used it
before and its just fine - especially for a car that was originally
painted with gawd-only-knows what kind of paint.

Back in the garage I decided to work on the body some more.  I
stripped the rest of the paint from the tub (except for under the
bonnet) and sanded the metal smooth.  I then applied a coating of
MetalReady, just to coat the steel with zinc.  While it was drying I
went to the passenger side sill to prepare a thin coating of body
filler over the surface rusted metal, now cleaned, zinc coated and
ready for 'smoothing'.  Here's a picture of the sill with the filler
curing.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_144658.jpg

The wood behind the metal is quite sound so I'm okay with this solution.

After sanding the filler smooth, I applied a coating of primer.
Here's how it looked with the primer still wet.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_155537.jpg

And from another angle.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_155555.jpg

And yet a third.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_155602.jpg

I also did the same process on the driver's side but in that case, the
repair was just a small spot.  Here's how it looked with the primer
starting to dry.  The repair is right above the running board mounting
hole.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_155831.jpg

Of course, everything will get a nice hand sanding with #220 paper
before paint, but its nice to have the bare metal covered and
protected.

In between the various steps, described above, I cleaned and
refinished various mounting brackets (e.g. the horns, starter switch
mount, etc.) and the headlight dimmer switch.  Here's how the dimmer
switch and its mounting panel look after the cleanup.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130513_152039.jpg

Spray can 'gloss black' dries to somewhere between gloss and matte,
despite its name, and that makes it perfect for these bits.

And with that, I swept out the garage, pushed the car back over out of
the way (4-wheel casters are GENIUS!) and pulled Nancy's SUV back into
the garage.

Happy Monday, after a frustrating start,

-rick
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 13 20:45:46 2013
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 21:42:49 -0500
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To: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm convinced that the problem is that the oil in the galleries leaks 
down when the car is parked for an extended period fo time. In the case 
of my '69 B that means more than two days.  I believe that if the oiling 
system isn't hermetically sealed while the engine is shut down, air gets 
in and oil drains to the pan.  Result: no oil in the main gallerie untl 
the engine runs a bit, the passages fill up and the pressure comes up to 
normal.  You hear the almost dry rod bearings rattle until they get oil.

  When my B has sat a few days, I crank it for 15 sec or so to get oil 
up in the galleries and build the pressure before I choke it. Then when 
it starts, no rattles.  If I drive it every day I never have to bother; 
no rattles. It takes a while for the oil to leak down I suppose.

CR

On 5/12/2013 11:23 AM, Duvall Video Productions wrote:
> I've seen the subject of delayed startup oil pressure on here which I have
> been experiencing on my 65 B.   I have had to turn it over without the choke
> but it takes quite awhile to build up pressure-  15 seconds or so on running.
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	22:49:08 -0400
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 21:49:03 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: "Robert J. Guinness" <guinness@stclegal.com>
References: <51901C2F.3030308@stclegal.com>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA generator bracket failure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

When I ran a repair shop the most common cause for this failure was that 
the belt pulleys didn't run in the same plane.  Careful attention has to 
be paid to ensuring that the pulley are aligned and not cocked.

CR
On 5/12/2013 5:48 PM, Robert J. Guinness wrote:
> My MGA 1600 seemed to be overheating a bit more than usual at stop
> lights.  So I opened the bonnet and lo and behold  -- both the water
> pump and rear brackets to the generator had sheared off.  What could
> cause this?  Do I need to (or should I) replace the water pump or can it
> be welded (after removal)?
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 13 20:54:11 2013
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Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 21:49:45 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
References: <CAKr3Jn33+S577ofKQ2qZBZLbvemNkWsQhPqZpUjfVCZC+SEfFw@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Bought a '78 B yesterday!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

GoodOnya, Andy!

CR
On 5/12/2013 10:41 PM, Andrew Lundgren wrote:
> I towed it home from Nevada today. Time to get to know the new one now!
>
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 14 09:09:45 2013
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From: "Michael Singleton" <mike@sportscarslimited.net>
To: "'PaulHunt73'" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	<MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com>
References: <23504C36E3864129B2116618083627AD@paul>
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 08:06:40 -0700
Thread-Index: AQHtNtOulrmLmhYc1KCiQiYwVu+2UZjG+o8w
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB wiring harness
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Paul;
Just looked at my '69. The harness should be long enough to extend to just
short of the bonnet latch area, ie, the middle of the grille. At that point,
the leads from each headlight, running and turn signals join in. the horn
goes to one and from there, by a sub harness, to the other horn.

Mike

Michael Singleton
Sportscars Ltd
10170  Croydon Way
Suite M
Sacramento, CA 95826
(916) 366-0330
mike@Sportscars Limited.net


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of PaulHunt73
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 3:36 AM
To: mgs@autox.team.net; MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Mgs] MGB wiring harness

A pal has a harness for a 1969 but it seems to be for the ultra-rare
'Cyclops'
model!

The harness stops by the right-hand headlight, where there are six wires for
the lights plus two wires in a tail for the horns, there is nothing going
across the front of the car to the left-hand headlight.  He does have a
two-wire sub-harness which looks like it is for the second horn, which was
optional until 1970 so I can understand a sub-harness for that, but should
there be a sub-harness for the left-hand lighting as well?  That seems to
make no sense.

PaulH.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 14 13:54:30 2013
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 13:51:27 -0600
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130510
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The '78 B I just bought came with one set of keys and a story.

The guy who was keeping the car for the guy I bought the car from lost 
the keys.

They called in a lock smith some time ago to make a replacement set.  He 
didn't have the correct blanks.  Rather than order them, he made some 
out of what he had lying about that could be wiggled about into the locks.

I want to get the correct keys now, but am not sure where the lock 
series numbers are located.

Do I pull the cowl off to get to the number off the lock, or is it 
someplace else?

I can see the pattern well enough by looking at the key I have, but as 
it is a jimmied (my apologies to any Jim's out there) key, I am not 
really positive the key will be any better than the one I have.

 From Mosses page here:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=30369&SortOrder=50

It looks like an FS to me...

Thanks!

--
Andrew
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 14 14:07:40 2013
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From: Paul Root <ptroot@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 15:04:43 -0500
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] MG J2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Cool little video. Love the J2 pulling up next to the gigantic Rolls.
http://www.autoweek.com/article/20130513/CARNEWS01/130519926?utm_source=Daily
Drive20130514&utm_medium=enewsletter&utm_term=missedarticle3&utm_content=2013
0513-Watch-a-ridiculously-tall-man-extract-himself-from-a-1932-MG-J2&utm_camp
aign=awdailydrive


Sent from my iPad
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References: <519295BF.5080902@byu.net>
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 13:07:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Google Pete Groh in Ellicott City, MD. He is the MG 'key' guy. He should be
able to help you out.

Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To:
mgs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 3:51 PM
Subject: [Mgs]
Replacement Keys
 

The '78 B I just bought came with one set of keys and a
story.

The guy who was keeping the car for the guy I bought the car from lost
the keys.

They called in a lock smith some time ago to make a replacement
set.  He 
didn't have the correct blanks.  Rather than order them, he made
some 
out of what he had lying about that could be wiggled about into the
locks.

I want to get the correct keys now, but am not sure where the lock
series numbers are located.

Do I pull the cowl off to get to the number off
the lock, or is it 
someplace else?

I can see the pattern well enough by
looking at the key I have, but as 
it is a jimmied (my apologies to any Jim's
out there) key, I am not 
really positive the key will be any better than the
one I have.

>From Mosses page here:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=30369&SortOrder
=50

It looks like an FS to me...

Thanks!

--
Andrew
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Donate:
Archive:
Unsubscribe:
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 14 14:12:57 2013
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 13:01:52 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
Thread-Index: Ac5Q3eA2SFrQSDkFmU6Jj5xpP3jaNQ==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
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Seems plausible -- that profile matches my set. But it's not like you have
to be too accurate. My 66 MGB came with three keys -- glovebox, gas cap,
trunk -- all three of which work in the ignition. None of these unlock the
doors, however.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 5/14/13 12:51 PM, Andrew Lundgren at lundgren@byu.net wrote:

> The '78 B I just bought came with one set of keys and a story.
> 
> The guy who was keeping the car for the guy I bought the car from lost
> the keys.
> 
> They called in a lock smith some time ago to make a replacement set.  He
> didn't have the correct blanks.  Rather than order them, he made some
> out of what he had lying about that could be wiggled about into the locks.
> 
> I want to get the correct keys now, but am not sure where the lock
> series numbers are located.
> 
> Do I pull the cowl off to get to the number off the lock, or is it
> someplace else?
> 
> I can see the pattern well enough by looking at the key I have, but as
> it is a jimmied (my apologies to any Jim's out there) key, I am not
> really positive the key will be any better than the one I have.
> 
>  From Mosses page here:
> 
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=30369&SortOrder=
> 50
> 
> It looks like an FS to me...
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> --
> Andrew
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To: Paul Root <ptroot@gmail.com>
References: <A9892359-5E08-4887-8559-736047FEDCEE@gmail.com>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG J2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The moral: Never put the top up!:-)

CR
On 5/14/2013 3:04 PM, Paul Root wrote:
> Cool little video. Love the J2 pulling up next to the gigantic Rolls.
> http://www.autoweek.com/article/20130513/CARNEWS01/130519926?utm_source=Daily
> Drive20130514&utm_medium=enewsletter&utm_term=missedarticle3&utm_content=2013
> 0513-Watch-a-ridiculously-tall-man-extract-himself-from-a-1932-MG-J2&utm_camp
> aign=awdailydrive
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 14 16:31:13 2013
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	<1368562045.90514.YahooMailNeo@web164901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 17:27:54 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.mgexp.com/phile/1/182525/key%20profiles.jpg

for key profiles - but you probably already knew that.

-rick

On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 3:07 PM, Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Google Pete Groh in Ellicott City, MD. He is the MG 'key' guy. He should be
> able to help you out.
>
> Dan D
> '76 B
> '65 B
> Central NJ USA
> ________________________________
>  From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
> To:
> mgs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 3:51 PM
> Subject: [Mgs]
> Replacement Keys
>
>
> The '78 B I just bought came with one set of keys and a
> story.
>
> The guy who was keeping the car for the guy I bought the car from lost
> the keys.
>
> They called in a lock smith some time ago to make a replacement
> set.  He
> didn't have the correct blanks.  Rather than order them, he made
> some
> out of what he had lying about that could be wiggled about into the
> locks.
>
> I want to get the correct keys now, but am not sure where the lock
> series numbers are located.
>
> Do I pull the cowl off to get to the number off
> the lock, or is it
> someplace else?
>
> I can see the pattern well enough by
> looking at the key I have, but as
> it is a jimmied (my apologies to any Jim's
> out there) key, I am not
> really positive the key will be any better than the
> one I have.
>
> From Mosses page here:
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=30369&SortOrder
> =50
>
> It looks like an FS to me...
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 14 19:19:05 2013
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Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 20:16:34 -0500
To: Paul Root <ptroot@gmail.com>, mgs@autox.team.net
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <A9892359-5E08-4887-8559-736047FEDCEE@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG J2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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We know this guy.  He is Scott Fohrman, a member of Chicagoland MG 
Club.  I sent him the link to the video.  We have more pictures of 
him and his car (along with a bunch more MMM cars) from 2002 here: 
http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/abingdon02

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA wih an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 03:04 PM 5/14/2013 -0500, Paul Root wrote:
>Cool little video. Love the J2 pulling up next to the gigantic Rolls.
>http://www.autoweek.com/article/20130513/CARNEWS01/130519926
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From: "Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk>
To: <Mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <6AE3F102-B903-44D9-9794-CA0FEB86A5BA@ece.rochester.edu>
	<CD2DA2CF.42FB8%mvheim@sonic.net>
	<201301300216.r0U2G9Su016315@nlpi176.prodigy.net>
	<E1U0ZGo-0001Er-8P@theta.look.ca>
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Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 12:00:26 +0100
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Subject: [Mgs] MGA Front Disc Backing plates
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys, has anyone got a part number or a source for the MGA front disk
backing / dust plate similar to the following link for the MGB or will the MGB
backing plate fit the MGA?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/bek072-MGB-BRAKE-DISC-BACK-PLATES-PAIR-BTB413-BTB41
2-/181123136272?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a2bc7bb10

Kindest regards
Tom

1960 MGA1600

1965 AH3000 MKIII BJ8

1988 Mini Park Lane
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 16 17:56:41 2013
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 19:52:52 -0400
From: "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Z-USANET-MsgId: XID304RePX112560X31
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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You probably know this already, but many MGB's still have a copy of the
original key bolted to the passenger side fender well inside the engine
compartment.

Douglas McKinnie
'70 BGT
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 18:54:50 -0600
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To: Douglas McKinnie <d.mckinnie@usa.net>
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Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had forgotten that. I will check it too.

Thanks!
On May 16, 2013 5:54 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net> wrote:

> You probably know this already, but many MGB's still have a copy of the
> original key bolted to the passenger side fender well inside the engine
> compartment.
>
> Douglas McKinnie
> '70 BGT
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren@byu.net
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 20:44:50 -0600
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To: Douglas McKinnie <d.mckinnie@usa.net>
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Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

No joy...  of the three B's I've owned, none of them has had the key
there....
On May 16, 2013 5:54 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net> wrote:

> You probably know this already, but many MGB's still have a copy of the
> original key bolted to the passenger side fender well inside the engine
> compartment.
>
> Douglas McKinnie
> '70 BGT
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren@byu.net
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 16 22:53:08 2013
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 22:49:48 -0600
From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 72, Issue 16
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

That's funny. In the mid-late 90's I had a 69 primrose B. I was working 
at a theater downtown Nashville and discovered that the orchestra pit 
motor control key fit the ignition. Then some years later, I was working 
in a new theater at Vanderbilt University and discovered that all the 
keys for the keyboard locks on the Steinways fit my ignition. Neither 
the glove box or fuel keys would work in the ignition. And of course my 
ignition key wouldn't unlock the pianos. I've never bothered locking the 
doors, so I wouldn't know about that.

Glenn


On 5/15/2013 12:00 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> From: Max Heim<mvheim@sonic.net>
> To: MG List<mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
> Message-ID:<CDB7E640.4616A%mvheim@sonic.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Seems plausible -- that profile matches my set. But it's not like you have
> to be too accurate. My 66 MGB came with three keys -- glovebox, gas cap,
> trunk -- all three of which work in the ignition. None of these unlock the
> doors, however.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 16 23:00:47 2013
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Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 21:57:24 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 72, Issue 16
Thread-Index: Ac5SuwU0acIsv2zgfE2oTuKr27GZoA==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 72, Issue 16
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I think my ignition lock must be pretty worn, because not only do all the
keys fit it, I can take them out while the engine is running. Occasionally
they fall out while driving, then I have to search the floor to switch off.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 5/16/13 9:49 PM, Glenn Schnittke at g.schnittke@comcast.net wrote:

> That's funny. In the mid-late 90's I had a 69 primrose B. I was working
> at a theater downtown Nashville and discovered that the orchestra pit
> motor control key fit the ignition. Then some years later, I was working
> in a new theater at Vanderbilt University and discovered that all the
> keys for the keyboard locks on the Steinways fit my ignition. Neither
> the glove box or fuel keys would work in the ignition. And of course my
> ignition key wouldn't unlock the pianos. I've never bothered locking the
> doors, so I wouldn't know about that.
> 
> Glenn
> 
> 
> On 5/15/2013 12:00 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>> From: Max Heim<mvheim@sonic.net>
>> To: MG List<mgs@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
>> Message-ID:<CDB7E640.4616A%mvheim@sonic.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>> 
>> Seems plausible -- that profile matches my set. But it's not like you have
>> to be too accurate. My 66 MGB came with three keys -- glovebox, gas cap,
>> trunk -- all three of which work in the ignition. None of these unlock the
>> doors, however.
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 05:20:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>, Douglas McKinnie <d.mckinnie@usa.net>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

X2 - neither of mine do. I believe they stopped this practice at some time in
the '70's anyways.

Dan D
'76 B
'65 B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To:
Douglas McKinnie <d.mckinnie@usa.net> 
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday,
May 16, 2013 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Replacement Keys
 

No joy...  of the
three B's I've owned, none of them has had the key
there....
On May 16, 2013
5:54 PM, "Douglas McKinnie" <d.mckinnie@usa.net> wrote:

> You probably know
this already, but many MGB's still have a copy of the
> original key bolted to
the passenger side fender well inside the engine
> compartment.
>
> Douglas
McKinnie
> '70 BGT
> _______________________________________________
>
>
Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested
annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren@byu.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive:
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 13:10:16 -0500
References: <mailman.1.1368813602.8387.mgs@autox.team.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] worn key
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Mine is the same way Max except the only key I can't get to work in the
ignition is the door/trunk key...


>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 21:57:24 -0700
> From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
> To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 72, Issue 16
> Message-ID: <CDBB06C4.462F2%mvheim@sonic.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> I think my ignition lock must be pretty worn, because not only do all the
> keys fit it, I can take them out while the engine is running. Occasionally
> they fall out while driving, then I have to search the floor to switch off.
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 23:20:17 -0500
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Champagne British Car Fest Bloomington IL
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone going to be at the Bloomington Illinois Champagne British Car Fest show
next weekend?
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 18 09:09:06 2013
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Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 10:03:13 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] A little TD work
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends, and good morning,

Here's a picture of the now repaired and refinished middle access
board from over the TD's differential.  The old holes have been
plugged, the new ones drilled, countersunk, and the the final coat of
semi-gloss black paint is drying.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1291.JPG

When I make the changes on the mount location, I'll post some more pictures.

And just for fun, here's a picture of a pile of assorted rusty bolts -
some to be reused, some to be archived, and a few trashed!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1290.JPG

Following that, here are a couple more pictures, just for
documentation, as the engine tear-down begins.  These are taken
specifically to answer some of the niggling questions upon reassembly.
 For example; Which way did the bolt go in?  Which end had the
lockwasher? etc..  That said, it is a mistake to believe without
question, that the way an old car is assembled TODAY is the the way
the mechanics assembled it 60 years ago!  These kinds of pictures and
exploded views in the workshop and parts manuals (and of course, the
MG-T List) should all be used together! :-)

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1293.JPG

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/HPIM1292.JPG

One area needing attention is the fan spacer.  It is broken and a new
piece from Moss will be ordered as soon as I have all the engine parts
needs in hand.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130517_101329.jpg

Here's a picture of the fan blades with the rusty metal primer drying.
 Yes, they were rusty but I cleaned away all the rust.  Still, rust
makes pits and this primer is better for that situation.  I also
straightened both blades where they were a bit distorted, probably by
impact with something.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130517_094605.jpg

I painted the fan blades with gloss black engine paint.  And as I have
said before, 'gloss' paint from a spray can dries to the desired
semi-gloss.

And while the paint was drying, I repaired more wood and screw holes.
Cracks in the wood where over-sized screws were used by some PO, are
repaired.  Once fully dry, the toothpicks are cut off and proper screw
holes will be drilled.   BTW, MinWax brand wood hardener does a nice
job of strengthening the body timbers - especially where screw holes
are drilled.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130517_092008.jpg

That's it for this morning.  This work was done yesterday.  Today,
I'll get a little more time working on the old boy.

-rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 20 11:00:31 2013
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 09:55:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pete Groh <pete_groh@yahoo.com>
To: "Mgs@autox.team.net" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] worn keys- suggestion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Over a period of time, the springs get worn out. May want to go to
a locksmith to get some springs. The early MNR lock insert used
the same key as on the GM cars. The key blank B10. The springs can
be replaced. I can provide you with the wafer sequence and direction
on how to remove the inserts.

The FA and FP lock insert, wafers are no longer available. The lock
insert for the FS keys are still maintain by locksmith since the
heavy duty cranes imported into the USA. The springs should be the same.


At car shows, look for old lock, ignition, glove box, door lock and boot
lock to get the wafers for re-keying locks.

Kind regards
Pete Groh (KeyGuy) Ellicott City MD USA
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 20 13:03:36 2013
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 14:00:09 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
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To: "mgs@Autox.Team.Net" <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <1369068957.5277.YahooMailNeo@web163806.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] worn keys- suggestion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This didn't get on the list for some reason so I'm sending it again with 
an edit.
===============================================================================================================

When I bought my'69B the PO had only one key which wasn't original. The 
local lock shop came up with some blanks that worked.  One side of these 
little silver-colored keys says "Fits National."  The others side says 
"Taylor 71B."  Both ignition keys will turn the switch to Run but not to 
Start unless inserted into the lock with the smooth side up.  The key I 
got from the PO operates both the ignition & boot lock.  Never tried the 
door locks.  Why lock a convertible?

*Edit:*  The key I got from the PO looks similar to a early GM ignition 
key.  It's marked "Cole National" on one side, on the other it's marked 
"EN2."  I just tried the original in the door locks and it works, FWIW.

CR

On 5/20/2013 11:55 AM, Pete Groh wrote:
> Over a period of time, the springs get worn out. May want to go to
> a locksmith to get some springs. The early MNR lock insert used
> the same key as on the GM cars. The key blank B10. The springs can
> be replaced. I can provide you with the wafer sequence and direction
> on how to remove the inserts.
>
> The FA and FP lock insert, wafers are no longer available. The lock
> insert for the FS keys are still maintain by locksmith since the
> heavy duty cranes imported into the USA. The springs should be the same.
>
>
> At car shows, look for old lock, ignition, glove box, door lock and boot
> lock to get the wafers for re-keying locks.
>
> Kind regards
> Pete Groh (KeyGuy) Ellicott City MD USA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 21:41:07 -0600
From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>
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To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Floating axle hub seals leaking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

While investigating the rear brakes on my new to me '78 B, I discovered 
that the rear castle nuts are loose (finger tight would be an 
overstatement...) and that oil has leaked out onto the shoes.

One of the screws holding the drum on was missing, two were stripped so 
badly that if they had been tightened at all then I would have had to 
drill them out and the last screw as damaged, though much less. One 
rebound strap is also torn out.

The drums look like they are in good shape and the brake pistons expand 
without issue.

I am expecting to replace the seals, the drum screws, the shoes and the 
rebound straps.  I am also considering doing the rear bearing since I am 
in there anyway.  Anything else I should do while I have it open?

--
Andrew
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Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 21:48:02 -0600
From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>
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To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

One email per question is a good idea right?  ;)

My '78 has been retro fitted with a single pull electric fan with a temp 
sensor against the radiator.

I have discovered that the relay controlling the fan fried.  It still 
functions, but the wire coming out of the bottom is nearly burned off.  
(Won't be driving until this is resolved.)

The first symptom of the problem was the engined died when the cooling 
fan came on.  While investigating why there was no power going to the 
coil, I found that by tugging on the harness the power came back on.  I 
heard electrical sparks while tugging and my son noticed smoke coming 
off of the fan relay.

It appears to be wired correctly as the fan does come on when the power 
is applied.

Any thoughts as to why the relay fried?

Bad ground?

Isn't the point of the relay to pass more power though than would 
otherwise be possible?

Thanks!
--
Andrew
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Duvall Video Productions" <mike@duvallvideo.com>
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
	<5191A4A9.9060408@ktc.com>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 08:58:59 +0100
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Oil does leak down from the system, be it galleries or filter, the longer it 
is left parked.  The quality of the oil filter has a major impact on this, 
but even switched off fully hot and left for a few days my V8 bearings were 
still swimming on oil when I removed the big ends and main bearings, so to 
say they are 'dry' at start-up is definitely not correct.  That engine is 
notorious for low oil pressure and a slow rise, the factory moved the gauge 
tapping from the output of the oil filter to the output of the pump in order 
to allay customer fears - but making absolutely no difference to the 
bearings of course, even so even when just left overnight it takes several 
seconds for the gauge to even start rising, and takes maybe 10-15 seconds to 
reach full pressure.  Left overnight the roadster is pretty 
well-instantaneous to register pressure, after a couple of weeks or more it 
is about five seconds from the start of cranking, having fired up after 3 or 
4 seconds.

15 seconds to see oil pressure is way too long.  Can you hear the knocking 
straight away?  Or only after a few seconds of running and before pressure 
builds?  If straight away it's likely that worn bearings are the cause of 
the slow rise.  If only after a while then it's likely that the residue of 
oil on the bearings is being lost before oil is available again, and that is 
causing bearing wear.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  Result: no oil in the main gallerie untl the engine runs a bit, the 
> passages fill up and the pressure comes up to normal.  You hear the almost 
> dry rod bearings rattle until they get oil.
_______________________________________________

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References: <519AECD3.2050009@byu.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 03:59:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Floating axle hub seals leaking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe the brake cylinders anyway...... Hate to see them leak and ruin the new
shoes.... Especially if you don't know how old they are.

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA




________________________________
 From: Andrew B. Lundgren
<lundgren@byu.net>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Monday, May 20, 2013 11:41 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Floating axle hub seals leaking
While investigating the rear brakes on my new to me '78 B, I discovered 
that
the rear castle nuts are loose (finger tight would be an 
overstatement...)
and that oil has leaked out onto the shoes.

One of the screws holding the
drum on was missing, two were stripped so 
badly that if they had been
tightened at all then I would have had to 
drill them out and the last screw
as damaged, though much less. One 
rebound strap is also torn out.

The drums
look like they are in good shape and the brake pistons expand 
without issue.
I am expecting to replace the seals, the drum screws, the shoes and the
rebound straps.  I am also considering doing the rear bearing since I am 
in
there anyway.  Anything else I should do while I have it open?

--
Andrew
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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Archive:
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From: Paul Root <ptrmgb@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 06:14:06 -0500
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
To: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The point of the relay is to not pass more power than necessary through the
switch that controls the equipment. It's to save the switch.

You don't say which wire it is.

I'm going to guess that the wire was frayed and came in contact with a
ground.

On May 20, 2013, at 10:48 PM, Andrew B. Lundgren wrote:

> One email per question is a good idea right?  ;)
>
> My '78 has been retro fitted with a single pull electric fan with a temp
sensor against the radiator.
>
> I have discovered that the relay controlling the fan fried.  It still
functions, but the wire coming out of the bottom is nearly burned off.  (Won't
be driving until this is resolved.)
>
> The first symptom of the problem was the engined died when the cooling fan
came on.  While investigating why there was no power going to the coil, I
found that by tugging on the harness the power came back on.  I heard
electrical sparks while tugging and my son noticed smoke coming off of the fan
relay.
>
> It appears to be wired correctly as the fan does come on when the power is
applied.
>
> Any thoughts as to why the relay fried?
>
> Bad ground?
>
> Isn't the point of the relay to pass more power though than would otherwise
be possible?
>
> Thanks!
> --
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ptrmgb@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 12:16:51 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes it's a bad connection, but highly unlikely to be a bad ground.

Any bad connection reduces the amount of current that can flow, and in the 
process a voltage is developed across the bad connection, and hence heat is 
developed where heat would not normally exist.  That heat can cause damage, 
but it would have to be in a high-current circuit to do so.  The only earth 
connection in the vicinity of the relay is for its winding, which only takes 
a very small current, so any bad connection in the winding circuit is only 
likely to affect whether the relay operates or not, not cause heat damage.

The bad connection is likely to be in the fan circuit, i.e. the 12v supply 
spade at the relay, the relay contact itself, or the relay spade that then 
supplies the fan motor.  If it is the insulation board that carries the 
spade that shows heat damage then almost certainly it is the relay contact 
that has gone high-resistance, I've replaced one myself (on a UK V8) for 
that reason.  The relay needs to be replaced, but you should check the 
condition of the wiring to the relay spades.  If that is showing heat damage 
it may have been from a bad connection between wiring connector and spade, 
in which case the spade will need to be replaced and maybe the wiring cut 
back and pieced out.

But you have a non-standard setup anyway.  From September 76 North American 
MGBs had twin cooling fans as standard, operated directly from a 
thermostatic switch in the header tank of the radiator and no relay, unlike 
the UK V8 which did use a relay.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I have discovered that the relay controlling the fan fried.  It still 
> functions, but the wire coming out of the bottom is nearly burned off.
_______________________________________________

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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Michael Singleton" <mike@sportscarslimited.net>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>, <MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com>
References: <23504C36E3864129B2116618083627AD@paul>
	<000601ce50b4$a60fc5f0$f22f51d0$@sportscarslimited.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 13:00:55 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB wiring harness
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Well that's another option I hadn't thought of, so thanks for that.  However 
the headlamp and parking/indicator light wires wouldn't reach anywhere near 
the centre of the grille on either my 73 or 75, and the parts catalogues 
I've looked at only show one headlamp sub-harness for all chrome bumper 
cars.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Just looked at my '69. The harness should be long enough to extend to just
> short of the bonnet latch area, ie, the middle of the grille. At that 
> point,
> the leads from each headlight, running and turn signals join in. 
_______________________________________________

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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <519AECD3.2050009@byu.net>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 12:47:09 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Floating axle hub seals leaking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

If you mean the rear hub nuts they are supposed to be 150 ft lb!  I wouldn't 
replace the bearings unless they need it, they really need to be pressed off 
and back on again, a much bigger job than replacing the oils seal.  If you 
do replace the bearings then grease them prior to installation, even though 
they run in axle oil.

Check the collar that the oil seal rides on, if that shows any damage i.e. 
grooving they will need to be replaced.

The drum screws are only there to stop the drums falling off before the 
wheels are fitted, the stud wheels hold the drums in the correct position 
anyway.  I always slacken mine by a quarter-turn when refitting to stop them 
seizing.

Rebound straps are very iffy, nothing more than elastic bands from most 
places as they have no reinforcing.  If you are lucky they will stretch 
until the axle is hanging on the dampers (assuming you have the dampers 
fitted ...) but often they simply snap the first time they are asked to take 
the weight of the axle.  Some time ago Moss US reckoned to have sourced 
correct straps and a test rig to check them, but I've not heard anything 
more about that.  I've reinforced mine with parcel strapping, but there are 
braided ones available from Strapping Lad, although I've been told his 
response to emails is iffy.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> While investigating the rear brakes on my new to me '78 B, I discovered 
> that the rear castle nuts are loose (finger tight would be an 
> overstatement...) and that oil has leaked out onto the shoes.
> ... 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 14:41:51 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] small steps forward
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

I spent most of today cleaning the garage.  It was an incredible mess
- a mess to the point of loosing parts so...it got cleaned.

After brushing down the benches and shelves, and sweeping the floor,
and after painting the transmission cover...

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130521_100519.jpg

...I went to the 'waiting for clean-up' box and pulled out a few
items.  The first was the accelerator assemble, complete with the
roller, the two pivots and the return spring.  It was stripped and
repainted black.  Its included in a picture I'll reference a little
later.

The next bit were the pedals.  I had previously removed them from the
arms.  Here's a look.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130521_130631.jpg

And here's a look at the pedal assembles after cleaning and
refinishing.  I'll put the new rubber pads on right before installing.
 You can also see the accelerator.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130521_134231.jpg

Where bolts and nuts are easily replaced with modern sizes, I have
done so, saving the salvageable Whitworth bolts and nuts for
applications where that thread pitch is required.  e.g. captive nuts,
studs, etc..  The bolts I used to attach the pedal to the link are
about 1/4" too long.  Yes, they are the same size as the bolts that
came out but I'll replace them with slightly shorter bolts after my
next trip to the hardware store.

I have also cleaned away the rust and grease from the angle irons that
provide the inboard supports for the floorboards.  I've also added
penetrating oil to the captive nuts in the hopes of backing out the
screws whose heads had to be drilled out.  And after the attachments
are managed, I'll paint these two parts black.

Folks, many of you have written to say that they enjoy the ongoing
story and the pictures.  Thank you.  Many of you have offered valuable
tips and they are greatly appreciated.  And a couple of folks have
written rather scathing comments about the techniques I have used.
That too is to be expected.  However, let me state again: I am not
writing to RECOMMEND processes or techniques.  I'm simply sharing my
hobby with my friends.

And that's it for now.

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

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Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 10:21:05 -0600
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130510
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net> <26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I think this matches what I am seeing.

The relay itself is fried and the connection for one of the 12v spades 
is fried.  That spade is toasted all the way up into the relay.

It will actually wiggle around now inside the relay.

Here are some links to the relay.

Here are two bad pictures of the relay:  (one blurry, the other with a 
flash glare...)
http://www.lundgren.us/78/P20May2013Mon_2026-09.jpg
http://www.lundgren.us/78/P22May2013Wed_0841-30.jpg

And the wires on the bottom:
http://www.lundgren.us/78/P22May2013Wed_0841-40.jpg
http://www.lundgren.us/78/P22May2013Wed_0841-48.jpg
http://www.lundgren.us/78/P22May2013Wed_0842-07.jpg 
<http://www.lundgren.us/78/P22May2013Wed_0842-01.jpg>

I am concerned that the wire connected to the fried spade has already 
been replaced once...  It is either the initial connection, or this has 
fried a relay before.

--
Andrew

On 05/21/2013 05:16 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> Yes it's a bad connection, but highly unlikely to be a bad ground.
>
> Any bad connection reduces the amount of current that can flow, and in 
> the process a voltage is developed across the bad connection, and 
> hence heat is developed where heat would not normally exist.  That 
> heat can cause damage, but it would have to be in a high-current 
> circuit to do so.  The only earth connection in the vicinity of the 
> relay is for its winding, which only takes a very small current, so 
> any bad connection in the winding circuit is only likely to affect 
> whether the relay operates or not, not cause heat damage.
>
> The bad connection is likely to be in the fan circuit, i.e. the 12v 
> supply spade at the relay, the relay contact itself, or the relay 
> spade that then supplies the fan motor.  If it is the insulation board 
> that carries the spade that shows heat damage then almost certainly it 
> is the relay contact that has gone high-resistance, I've replaced one 
> myself (on a UK V8) for that reason.  The relay needs to be replaced, 
> but you should check the condition of the wiring to the relay spades.  
> If that is showing heat damage it may have been from a bad connection 
> between wiring connector and spade, in which case the spade will need 
> to be replaced and maybe the wiring cut back and pieced out.
>
> But you have a non-standard setup anyway.  From September 76 North 
> American MGBs had twin cooling fans as standard, operated directly 
> from a thermostatic switch in the header tank of the radiator and no 
> relay, unlike the UK V8 which did use a relay.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I have discovered that the relay controlling the fan fried.  It still 
>> functions, but the wire coming out of the bottom is nearly burned off.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 13:49:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] small steps forward
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

 I am actually taking Friday afternoon off, in the hopes of also cleaning my
garage and workspace and starting to do some
tasks on my '65 B project!

Dan D
'65 B
'76 B
Central NJ USA




________________________________
 From: Richard
Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List"
<mgs@autox.team.net>; mg-t@autox.team.net; Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 3:41 PM
Subject: [Mgs] small steps forward
 

Hi
Friends,

I spent most of today cleaning the garage.  It was an incredible
mess
- a mess to the point of loosing parts so...it got cleaned.

After
brushing down the benches and shelves, and sweeping the floor,
and after
painting the transmission cover...
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130521_100519.jpg

...I went to the 'waiting for
clean-up' box and pulled out a few
items.  The first was the accelerator
assemble, complete with the
roller, the two pivots and the return spring.  It
was stripped and
repainted black.  Its included in a picture I'll reference a
little
later.

The next bit were the pedals.  I had previously removed them
from the
arms.  Here's a look.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130521_130631.jpg
And here's a look at the pedal assembles after cleaning and
refinishing.  I'll
put the new rubber pads on right before installing.
You can also see the
accelerator.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130521_134231.jpg

Where bolts and
nuts are easily replaced with modern sizes, I have
done so, saving the
salvageable Whitworth bolts and nuts for
applications where that thread pitch
is required.  e.g. captive nuts,
studs, etc..  The bolts I used to attach the
pedal to the link are
about 1/4" too long.  Yes, they are the same size as the
bolts that
came out but I'll replace them with slightly shorter bolts after my
next trip to the hardware store.

I have also cleaned away the rust and grease
from the angle irons that
provide the inboard supports for the floorboards. 
I've also added
penetrating oil to the captive nuts in the hopes of backing
out the
screws whose heads had to be drilled out.  And after the attachments
are managed, I'll paint these two parts black.

Folks, many of you have
written to say that they enjoy the ongoing
story and the pictures.  Thank
you.  Many of you have offered valuable
tips and they are greatly
appreciated.  And a couple of folks have
written rather scathing comments
about the techniques I have used.
That too is to be expected.  However, let me
state again: I am not
writing to RECOMMEND processes or techniques.  I'm
simply sharing my
hobby with my friends.

And that's it for now.

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Donate:
Archive:
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:36:18 -0500
To: mg-t@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] another SU needle question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the 158 numbers on my SU needle mean it is a CS1 (teglerizer site) and
the factory needle is an ES.   The CS1 seems to get richer with higher rpm.

Anyone familiar with this needle change?   I'm wondering if someone did it
because they put pancake air cleaners on it.  I put an original air cleaner
back on it.
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 19:34:27 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
	<5191A4A9.9060408@ktc.com> <5C7E48E6558D47119E7517F11C9EA605@paul>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net, Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Paul,

Let me begin by asking if you were responding to an earlier post of mine?

If so, note that  wrote, "almost dry" not  "dry. "   What I meant by 
thet was that the bearings were not floating in oil, as they would have 
been after a day or so of inactivity.

  I think the OP was speaking of a MGB 4 cyl engine.  That's post I 
responded to.

Yes, in the case of my engine and the original OP's,  AIR, if the engine 
isn't cranked for 10 - 15 seconds before allowing it to start,, the rods 
will rattle after starting,  until the oil flow & resulting pressure 
comes up.   That's why I make a practice of cranking the engine for 
10-15 seconds  unchoked, before choking and starting it.  This is only 
if the engine has not been started for more than two days.

I hope this clears any confusion for you,

CR


On 5/21/2013 2:58 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> Oil does leak down from the system, be it galleries or filter, the 
> longer it is left parked.  The quality of the oil filter has a major 
> impact on this, but even switched off fully hot and left for a few 
> days my V8 bearings were still swimming on oil when I removed the big 
> ends and main bearings, so to say they are 'dry' at start-up is 
> definitely not correct.  That engine is notorious for low oil pressure 
> and a slow rise, the factory moved the gauge tapping from the output 
> of the oil filter to the output of the pump in order to allay customer 
> fears - but making absolutely no difference to the bearings of course, 
> even so even when just left overnight it takes several seconds for the 
> gauge to even start rising, and takes maybe 10-15 seconds to reach 
> full pressure.  Left overnight the roadster is pretty 
> well-instantaneous to register pressure, after a couple of weeks or 
> more it is about five seconds from the start of cranking, having fired 
> up after 3 or 4 seconds.
>
> 15 seconds to see oil pressure is way too long.  Can you hear the 
> knocking straight away?  Or only after a few seconds of running and 
> before pressure builds?  If straight away it's likely that worn 
> bearings are the cause of the slow rise.  If only after a while then 
> it's likely that the residue of oil on the bearings is being lost 
> before oil is available again, and that is causing bearing wear.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> ...  Result: no oil in the main gallerie untl the engine runs a bit, 
>> the passages fill up and the pressure comes up to normal.  You hear 
>> the almost dry rod bearings rattle until they get oil.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 22 18:44:57 2013
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Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 19:37:14 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
References: <4EF16D0B-38CE-42FB-9B7F-068CF4D0B2F1@duvallvideo.com>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another SU needle question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

How does it run as-is?

CR
On 5/22/2013 6:36 PM, Duvall Video Productions wrote:
> I think the 158 numbers on my SU needle mean it is a CS1 (teglerizer site) and
> the factory needle is an ES.   The CS1 seems to get richer with higher rpm.
>
> Anyone familiar with this needle change?   I'm wondering if someone did it
> because they put pancake air cleaners on it.  I put an original air cleaner
> back on it.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
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From: Duvall Video Productions <mike@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:18:47 -0500
References: <4EF16D0B-38CE-42FB-9B7F-068CF4D0B2F1@duvallvideo.com>
	<519D64BA.4020701@ktc.com>
To: ccrobins@ktc.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another SU needle question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

flat would be a good word-  sluggish and low torque-  I drove another TD last
summer and it had much more torque.

On May 22, 2013, at 7:37 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:

> How does it run as-is?
>
> CR
> On 5/22/2013 6:36 PM, Duvall Video Productions wrote:
>> I think the 158 numbers on my SU needle mean it is a CS1 (teglerizer site)
and
>> the factory needle is an ES.   The CS1 seems to get richer with higher
rpm.
>>
>> Anyone familiar with this needle change?   I'm wondering if someone did it
>> because they put pancake air cleaners on it.  I put an original air
cleaner
>> back on it.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Andrew Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
	<26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul> <519CF071.9080302@byu.net>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:47:42 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd suspect the problem has happened before but only the heat damaged wire 
was pieced out, the real cause of the problem i.e. the relay was left behind 
to damage the new wire.  You need to do both, changing just the relay now 
may result in a reoccurrence if the wire connector is heat damaged and makes 
a bad connection to the new relay spade.  Unless the motor or its wiring has 
a partial short and is drawing too much current I doubt both were replaced 
last time.  And originally the fan was fused, so a partial short should have 
revealed itself ... unless that has been bypassed because it did keep 
blowing because of a partial short!  You need to check that fuse as well, 
indeed that it does have one, as that relay is not standard for a 4-cylinder 
MGB cooling fan.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I am concerned that the wire connected to the fried spade has already
> been replaced once...  It is either the initial connection, or this has
> fried a relay before.
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Duvall Video Productions" <mike@duvallvideo.com>,
  <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <4EF16D0B-38CE-42FB-9B7F-068CF4D0B2F1@duvallvideo.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:57:30 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] another SU needle question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I doubt any needle gets richer with rpm as such, but they all get richer as 
the piston lifts, which is controlled by the throttle butterfly opening. 
It's that which causes the increase in rpm (usually) hence increasing rpm is 
an effect and not a cause.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...   The CS1 seems to get richer with higher rpm.
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
	<5191A4A9.9060408@ktc.com> <5C7E48E6558D47119E7517F11C9EA605@paul>
	<519D6413.7040806@ktc.com>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:08:31 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

No confusion here.

The difference between a V8 and a 4-cylinder is irrelevant as far as oil 
remaining in the bearings is concerned.

Any oil remaining in the bearings by the time it has cooled down, i.e. a 
matter of a couple of hours, will remain there a very long time.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I hope this clears any confusion for you,
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From: "Michael Singleton" <mike@sportscarslimited.net>
To: "'PaulHunt73'" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>, "'Andrew Lundgren'"
	<lundgren@byu.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
	<26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul> <519CF071.9080302@byu.net>
	<FD19FB687CCF4EE7A2EC05F3C194EB35@paul>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 07:41:00 -0700
Thread-Index: AQGGTZCNDUfQbCaOpkOIKphUC28qfgKYZL/HAUL7VegBoWia9Jl3AOqA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Small addition to your post. The fan in the North American cars I've seen is
protected by a circuit breaker instead of the fuse shown in the wiring
diagrams. This being the case, the breaker could reset itself after tripping
any number of times, possibly eventually damaging the wiring, relay, or
whatever. Of course as you have pointed out, the relay is a non-factory
component, and we do not know how it is wired into the system. If the relay
was installed taking its power directly from the Brown/White wire, it
wouldn't be protected by any fuses and resultant damage could be caused by
any number of issues. Note the factory wiring diagram, 1977 Supplementary
wiring diagram-thermostatically controlled radiator fan (p. Na12  - factory
manual).


Michael Singleton
Sportscars Ltd
10170 Croydon Way
Suite M
Sacramento, CA 95826
(916)366-0330
mike@SportscarsLimited.net



-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of PaulHunt73
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:48 AM
To: Andrew Lundgren; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...

I'd suspect the problem has happened before but only the heat damaged wire
was pieced out, the real cause of the problem i.e. the relay was left behind
to damage the new wire.  You need to do both, changing just the relay now
may result in a reoccurrence if the wire connector is heat damaged and makes
a bad connection to the new relay spade.  Unless the motor or its wiring has
a partial short and is drawing too much current I doubt both were replaced
last time.  And originally the fan was fused, so a partial short should have
revealed itself ... unless that has been bypassed because it did keep
blowing because of a partial short!  You need to check that fuse as well,
indeed that it does have one, as that relay is not standard for a 4-cylinder
MGB cooling fan.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I am concerned that the wire connected to the fried spade has already 
> been replaced once...  It is either the initial connection, or this 
> has fried a relay before.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 10:04:50 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
	<26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul> <519CF071.9080302@byu.net>
	<FD19FB687CCF4EE7A2EC05F3C194EB35@paul>
	<001001ce57c3$8dc01ca0$a94055e0$@sportscarslimited.net>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 16:58:25 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yebutt ... North American cars never had the relay from the factory.  They 
did eventually get the circuit breaker, but that should be able to switch on 
and off repeatedly without causing any damage certainly to the wiring. 
Frequent short pulses to the motor such that it never reaches full speed 
could cause that to overheat (it draws more current while accelerating up to 
full speed).  But in that case it would give inadequate cooling which should 
be indicated on the temperature gauge.  I suppose if a relay were fitted (as 
in this case (but see below)) it would eventually shorten the life of that 
by arcing at the contacts eventually burning them and causing them to go 
high-resistance as seems to be the case here.  But there were differently 
rated rectangular relays, and using the wrong one in an application could 
cause either the winding to burn out, or the contacts.  I don't know if the 
same applied to the cylindrical type as here, but as I say from everything I 
have heard, read and seen it shouldn't have a relay there anyway.

It's just occurred to me that this probably isn't a fan relay at all, but 
the ignition relay.  That did supply the fan, as well as everything else.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Small addition to your post. The fan in the North American cars I've seen 
> is
> protected by a circuit breaker instead of the fuse shown in the wiring
> diagrams. This being the case, the breaker could reset itself after 
> tripping
> any number of times, possibly eventually damaging the wiring, relay, or
> whatever. 
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 10:14:26 2013
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 11:06:25 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net, "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Handbrake and bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

This morning I assembled all the parts of the handbrake assembly
(those bits found in the the cockpit only).  The 'arm' of the
handbrake's chrome was beyond saving so I decided to either have it
re-chromed or replaced at some later date.  Yesterday I sanded the
chrome to rough it up a bit, then applied a high-build primer and
black paint.  Gasp!   Well, for now, it will work and will look okay -
just not correct.  The push button's chrome was fine and left
polished.  The handle/grip got a coat of matte black paint.  The
adjusters are brass and are now nicely polished and clear-coated,
while the rest of the metal bits are painted semi-gloss black,
including the assembly-to-tunnel attachment bolts.

All of the rusty floorboard screws - including the ones whose heads
were drilled off - have now been removed from the captive nuts on the
angle-iron; those parts which supports the inboard edges of the
floorboards and propshaft tunnel.  I did a test using another of the
1/4" captive nuts found elsewhere.  I ran a 1/4-20 tap through the nut
and fitted a 1/4-20 bolt.  It fit nicely and was strong.  My
floorboards will be attached with 1/4-20 countersunk Phillips head
screws for $1.50, not $35.00 'correct' screws!   You have my full
permission to gasp again, as desired. :-)

-rick
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:23:06 -0600
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130510
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net>
	<26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul> <519CF071.9080302@byu.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 05/23/2013 09:58 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> It's just occurred to me that this probably isn't a fan relay at all, 
> but the ignition relay.  That did supply the fan, as well as 
> everything else. 

I would like to hear more about this...  As I mentioned in the original 
thread, when the fan kicks on the car died.

I assumed that the hot line was grounding out and killing the car, are 
you suggesting that all of the power to the ignition and the fan is 
supplied though this relay?

There is no fuse or breaker in line with the fan (that I saw this 
morning in my quick examination of the wires before work).  The line 
that fried is connected to the hot brown line in the harness, so I guess 
there could be one further up the line, but I haven't gotten that far yet.

I was planning on getting a relay and other bits locally tonight to get 
things running again.  This one is available and appears to match the 
requirements:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Relay-Radiator-Cooling-Fan-Motor/_/N-9cj89?itemIdentifier=297371_0_8419_

I can later replace it with another mountable UK one.


--
Andrew
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 12:20:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mg-t@autox.team.net"
	<mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Handbrake and bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

'Gasping' at $35 for nuts n bolts!!

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mg-t@autox.team.net; "mgs@autox.team.net List"
<mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:06 PM
Subject: [Mgs]
Handbrake and bolts
 

Hi Friends,

This morning I assembled all the parts of
the handbrake assembly
(those bits found in the the cockpit only).  The 'arm'
of the
handbrake's chrome was beyond saving so I decided to either have it
re-chromed or replaced at some later date.  Yesterday I sanded the
chrome to
rough it up a bit, then applied a high-build primer and
black paint.  Gasp! 
Well, for now, it will work and will look okay -
just not correct.  The push
button's chrome was fine and left
polished.  The handle/grip got a coat of
matte black paint.  The
adjusters are brass and are now nicely polished and
clear-coated,
while the rest of the metal bits are painted semi-gloss black,
including the assembly-to-tunnel attachment bolts.

All of the rusty
floorboard screws - including the ones whose heads
were drilled off - have now
been removed from the captive nuts on the
angle-iron; those parts which
supports the inboard edges of the
floorboards and propshaft tunnel.  I did a
test using another of the
1/4" captive nuts found elsewhere.  I ran a 1/4-20
tap through the nut
and fitted a 1/4-20 bolt.  It fit nicely and was strong. 
My
floorboards will be attached with 1/4-20 countersunk Phillips head
screws
for $1.50, not $35.00 'correct' screws!   You have my full
permission to gasp
again, as desired. :-)

-rick
_______________________________________________
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 16:09:59 2013
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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 17:06:09 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>,  Mga List
  <Mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <D76C1E1A-7E3A-4DE8-8BB4-6917172C92A8@duvallvideo.com>
	<5191A4A9.9060408@ktc.com> <5C7E48E6558D47119E7517F11C9EA605@paul>
	<519D6413.7040806@ktc.com> <C33EC501E6A64091BC5463AA4C1BE7E2@paul>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil pressure delay question
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Doggone it,  Paul,

   It was all about rod rattling after the engine had sat for over two days.

CR
On 5/23/2013 3:08 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> No confusion here.
>
> The difference between a V8 and a 4-cylinder is irrelevant as far as 
> oil remaining in the bearings is concerned.
>
> Any oil remaining in the bearings by the time it has cooled down, i.e. 
> a matter of a couple of hours, will remain there a very long time.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I hope this clears any confusion for you,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 20:11:21 2013
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From: "Aubrey Schneider" <aschneider@shaw.ca>
To: "mg list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 19:07:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello all,

Have been floating in the background for a while, after being off for a long
time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is still someone who can
help this OF.

In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go thru' what is known as AirCare,
much the same as smog testing. To get my
75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass. Besides
adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float have any
significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.

Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do to
bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle looked
at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the place. The
dist is now 5 BTDC.

Thanks in advance.

Aubrey

75 B
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 22:00:18 2013
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References: <5A7D04B5669848E7AD98C530ACE03339@owneraur2ue3rs>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 20:51:53 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Aubrey Schneider <aschneider@shaw.ca>
Cc: mg list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] float & aircare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Do you know which gasses they are measuring on your car?  Are they doing
just a tailpipe test or are they doing a dyno test?
In general, here are some tips about mixture and exhaust
Too Rich
High HC
High CO
Low NOX
Low CO2

Too Lean
High HC
Low CO
High NOX
High CO2

Timing advanced
High NOX

In general if I have to take a high mileage car though a smog test, I
change the oil, replace the spark plugs, make sure the air filter is clean
and everything is set to spec.  I take the car for a good long drive to
make sure it is totally up to operating temp.  Once I get to the testing
station, I do not turn the car off, as I don't want the cat cooling off.




On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 7:07 PM, Aubrey Schneider <aschneider@shaw.ca>wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Have been floating in the background for a while, after being off for a
> long
> time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is still someone who
> can
> help this OF.
>
> In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go thru' what is known as AirCare,
> much the same as smog testing. To get my
> 75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass.
> Besides
> adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float have any
> significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.
>
> Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do
> to
> bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle
> looked
> at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the place.
> The
> dist is now 5 BTDC.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Aubrey
>
> 75 B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 23 22:05:42 2013
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From: "Aubrey Schneider" <aschneider@shaw.ca>
To: "mg list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 21:01:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aubrey Schneider" <aschneider@shaw.ca>
To: "mg list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 7:07 PM
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare


> Hello all,
>
> Have been floating in the background for a while, after being off for a 
> long
> time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is still someone who 
> can
> help this OF.
>
> In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go thru' what is known as AirCare,
> much the same as smog testing. To get my
> 75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass. 
> Besides
> adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float have any
> significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.
>
> Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do 
> to
> bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle 
> looked
> at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the place. 
> The
> dist is now 5 BTDC.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Aubrey
>
> 75 B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/aschneider@shaw.ca 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 22:27:43 -0600
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
	s=q20121106; t=1369369785;
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Subject: [Mgs] Tighten the distributor after setting the timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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And before driving around the block.

That is all.
_______________________________________________

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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Andrew Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <519AEE72.9090708@byu.net><26E5ABD00B3341E1AD9FA1877254883A@paul>
	<519CF071.9080302@byu.net><FD19FB687CCF4EE7A2EC05F3C194EB35@paul><001001ce57c3$8dc01ca0$a94055e0$@sportscarslimited.net><04B44A31643B47C4A45F270B377BAF18@paul>
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:02:45 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fan Relay fried...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

That is more confirmation that it is the ignition relay then (didn't notice 
that in the original post).  When the fan operates the additional current 
from that causes even more volt-drop through the bad connection at the 
relay, killing the voltage to the ignition and everything else.

That link is for a 'hi/lo blower' relay which looks to me as if it is 
intended for two-speed cooling fan motors as often found on modern cars. 
You just need a basic Bosch 4-terminal 12v/30A relay such as 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RELAY-0332014125-BY-BOSCH-/380569119474.

The circuit breaker should be below the fusebox, brown/white and green 
wires, as shown here 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tes6x4hirjoz9gk/DSC00012.JPG?n=117394008

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> On 05/23/2013 09:58 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>> It's just occurred to me that this probably isn't a fan relay at all, but 
>> the ignition relay.  That did supply the fan, as well as everything else.
>
> I would like to hear more about this...  As I mentioned in the original 
> thread, when the fan kicks on the car died.
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Aubrey Schneider" <aschneider@shaw.ca>, "mg list"
  <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <5A7D04B5669848E7AD98C530ACE03339@owneraur2ue3rs>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:11:58 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] float & aircare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Do you mean float height?  That will effect mixture to some extent, the 
workshop manual gives quite a precise figure for setting.  In my experience 
it makes little difference to driving, but for emissions testing it will be 
more noticeable if it is out.

But there can be many other defects in ignition, carburation and emissions 
controls that will also make it difficult to pass a test, many of which will 
also affect running.

5 degrees BTDC seems low to me, Canada 74 to 76 used the 45D4 41599 
distributor set to 7 degrees static, 13 degrees at 1500 rpm strobe.  That is 
likely to put up emissions as more of the fuel is wasted instead of being 
converted to forward motion.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... To get my
> 75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass. 
> Besides
> adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float have any
> significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.
>
> Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do 
> to
> bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle 
> looked
> at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the place. 
> The
> dist is now 5 BTDC.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 24 05:56:05 2013
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From: "Stephen West-Fisher" <steve@coastaldatasystems.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAKr3Jn10rRv0Q+7xk7Z=HuzT1vOLKm1p5BseUGH27mhHTDotFw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 07:46:49 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5YN10tpWpPgLX1S5+wbLks8XxuLwAPDWbw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Tighten the distributor after setting the timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Back in the '90s SWMBO took over my SUV and I started driving her Sirocco. I
don't remember if it was the day after I had tuned it up or not, but driving
to work I could barely press on the gas without getting all kinds of
vibration, missing, etc. So I would accelerate very slowly and if the
vibration started I would back off the throttle a little and try to
accelerate even more slowly. When I got to my office I popped the bonnet and
the distributer cap was not clipped down :-) I can't believe the thing ran
at all!

--
Stephen West-Fisher
N4IK
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 12:06:44 GMT
To: aschneider@shaw.ca
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

   In mid 1980s, I had a 1975 MGB with the Stromberg, but no catalyst.
   For it to pass emissions testing in Connecticut required careful tweaking.
The settings on the label did not suffice.
   Bob Wanta, a name that may be remembered by some long- time readers, would
poke the sensor of his tester into the tailpipe and work with mixture and
timing until emissions were barely within emissions requirements.
   Then ,with bonnet propped open several inches for additional cooling, I
would drive gently to the testing station. There, if waiting in line, it was
necessary to shut the engine off and on to keep its coolant temp about where
it was when Wanta got it within specs.   Hotter or cooler, it was out of
spec.
   Once through the test, it was a gentle drive back to the shop to adjust so
engine would run properly. The mixture was very lean, and the spark plugs
would show it. Wanta also told me to fill with 91 or 93 octane fuel the two
tanks before testing.
   You might find that the label specs do not get your engine to pass either.
Try his method, and good luck.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Aubrey Schneider" <aschneider@shaw.ca>
To: "mg list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 21:01:55 -0700

----- Original Message -----
From: "Aubrey Schneider" <aschneider@shaw.ca>
To: "mg list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 7:07 PM
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare


> Hello all,
>
> Have been floating in the background for a while, after being off for a
> long
> time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is still someone who
> can
> help this OF.
>
> In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go thru' what is known as AirCare,
> much the same as smog testing. To get my
> 75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass.
> Besides
> adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float have any
> significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.
>
> Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do
> to
> bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle
> looked
> at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the place.
> The
> dist is now 5 BTDC.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Aubrey
>
> 75 B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/aschneider@shaw.ca
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 05:08:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Aubrey Schneider <aschneider@shaw.ca>, mg list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

John Twist has a publication on tuning the Z-S carb - might want to check that
out....
http://www.sterlingbritishmotoringsociety.org/files/zenith%20stromberg%20tech
%20tips.pdf


Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Aubrey Schneider <aschneider@shaw.ca>
To: mg list <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 12:01 AM
Subject:
[Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aubrey
Schneider" <aschneider@shaw.ca>
To: "mg list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent:
Thursday, May 23, 2013 7:07 PM
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare


> Hello all,
>
> Have been floating in the background for a while, after being off for a 
>
long
> time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is still someone
who 
> can
> help this OF.
>
> In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go
thru' what is known as AirCare,
> much the same as smog testing. To get my
>
75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass. 
>
Besides
> adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float
have any
> significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.
>
> Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do 
>
to
> bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle 
>
looked
> at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the
place. 
> The
> dist is now 5 BTDC.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Aubrey
>
> 75 B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/aschneider@shaw.ca
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From: "Schauss, Peter (ESS)" <peter.schauss@ngc.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] float & aircare
Thread-Index: AQHOWH4GmI/P+mvWp0adH5Vd4f7M4A==
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 12:55:53 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] float & aircare
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Aubrey,

On my 1980 B, once I had a working catalytic converter, the car had no
problems passing the New York tailpipe (idle) emissions test.  A few years
after I bought the car, I replaced the Zenith-Stromberg carb with two HS-4s
and spliced an aftermarket catalyst into the exhaust system between the head
pipe and the front muffler. I always tuned the carburetors for best idle and
emissions were always within spec.

Is your air pump connected?

Do you know that your catalyst is good?  Shortly after I bought my car I
discovered that one of the previous owners had removed the guts of my catalyst
in addition to disconnecting the air pump.

Fortunately, New York does not require an emissions test for cars over 25
years old so I do not have to worry about this now.

HTH,
Peter Schauss

-----Original Message-----


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 19:07:01 -0700
From: "Aubrey Schneider" <aschneider@shaw.ca>
To: "mg list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare

Hello all,

Have been floating in the background for a while, after being off for a long
time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is still someone who can
help this OF.

In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go thru' what is known as AirCare,
much the same as smog testing. To get my
75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean enough to pass. Besides
adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does the float have any
significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean mixture.

Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs ) what do I have to do to
bring up the performance to where it should be. I have had the vehicle looked
at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems all over the place.
The
dist is now 5 BTDC.

Thanks in advance.

Aubrey

75 B
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 08:50:30 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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<< On 5/24/2013 7:06 AM, mgbob@juno.com wrote:

  Wanta also told me to fill with 91 or 93 octane fuel the two tanks before testing. >>

ABSOLUTELY ! ! !   Over the years and because somebody told me <G> I have told Customers
(after leaning carb out approx = between running great and hardly running - LOL -) to fill-up
with SHELL (only) Hi-test and go drive about 170 miles south and fill up with SHELL (ONLY) Hi-test and come back;  re-fill & do same drive & then go directly to Testing Station & get tested.  "If" car fails
(which has proved to be in serious minority <G>) go around block and lean-out further and return to Station.
Cars have NOT failed after the foregoing <G> <G> <G> ! ! !

I have had ONE (1) Customer that "knew better" and used Amoco Hi-test and did above then FAILED.
He did the "further lean out" to the point car would hardly run and barely made it into Test Lane;
he STILL FAILED ! ! !

He did the above Shell + drives and PASSED <VBG> ! ! !   He stopped by later same day and told me
"PLEASE go ahead and say 'I TOLD YOU SO' ".  We had a great laugh ! ! !

AND  << On 5/24/2013 7:55 AM, Schauss, Peter (ESS) wrote:
Shortly after I bought my car I discovered that one of the previous owners had removed the guts of
my catalyst ....>>

Common 'operation' around here.  Easier to just replace with "Test Pipe" (see Moss Catalog <G>) as long
as 'visual' doesn't count <VBG> !  Additional benefit is dissipation of exhaust heat ! ! !  Empty cats RETAIN
*HEAT* (read CHERRY RED & directly under carb <F>) ! ! !

Also, be SURE you have some sort of Heat Shield;  even if you have to make one (roofing flashing tin
works GREAT <G>),

Ed
Please visit MY site at:					www.justbrits.com
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 24 10:41:21 2013
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	Fri, 24 May 2013 12:35:41 -0400
From: "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb@nni.com>
To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>,Aubrey Schneider
	<aschneider@shaw.ca>, mg list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 12:35:41 -0400
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
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Has anyone on the list actually used this procedure to tune
their Z-S carb ?   If so, how did it go ? 

This is the same technique as published in the Moss
catalog.  I wish John Twist had made a video of it.

Gene
80 B

On Fri, 24 May 2013 05:08:54 -0700 (PDT)
 Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com> wrote:
> John Twist has a publication on tuning the Z-S carb -
> might want to check that
> out....
>
http://www.sterlingbritishmotoringsociety.org/files/zenith%20stromberg%20tech
> %20tips.pdf
> 
> 
> Dan D
> '76B
> '65B
> Central NJ USA
> ________________________________
>  From: Aubrey Schneider <aschneider@shaw.ca>
> To: mg list <mgs@autox.team.net> 
> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 12:01 AM
> Subject:
> [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
>  
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Aubrey
> Schneider" <aschneider@shaw.ca>
> To: "mg list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent:
> Thursday, May 23, 2013 7:07 PM
> Subject: [Mgs] float & aircare
> 
> 
> > Hello all,
> >
> > Have been floating in the background for a while, after
> being off for a 
> >
> long
> > time. The site seems to have changed but maybe there is
> still someone
> who 
> > can
> > help this OF.
> >
> > In British Columbia, Canada, we have to go
> thru' what is known as AirCare,
> > much the same as smog testing. To get my
> >
> 75 B thru' I have to get the carb ( Stromberg ) lean
> enough to pass. 
> >
> Besides
> > adjusting the mixture on the carb to lean it out, does
> the float
> have any
> > significant adjustments to assist in achieving the lean
> mixture.
> >
> > Also, once I have passed the test ( holding thumbs )
> what do I have to do 
> >
> to
> > bring up the performance to where it should be. I have
> had the vehicle 
> >
> looked
> > at & worked upon by 3 different dealers & now it seems
> all over the
> place. 
> > The
> > dist is now 5 BTDC.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Aubrey
> >
> > 75 B
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Mgs@autox.team.net
> >
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> Unsubscribe:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/aschneider@shaw.ca
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> 
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 24 11:20:45 2013
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:52:14 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Thread-Index: Ac5YnwqH4ycsnh5Er02Re586A43VfA==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm glad Shell seems to work for you in your area. But here in Northern
California, the Chevron refinery sells gasoline to all the stations, so it
doesn't matter whose name is on the sign. It all has 10% ethanol, anyway,
and tops out at 91.

All things considered, it saves a lot of hassle to own a 74 or older MG in
California, and avoid the whole smog test rigmarole. I like to think one
gets a "purer" MG experience, also.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 5/24/13 6:50 AM, shop@justbrits.com at shop@justbrits.com wrote:

> << On 5/24/2013 7:06 AM, mgbob@juno.com wrote:
> 
>   Wanta also told me to fill with 91 or 93 octane fuel the two tanks before
> testing. >>
> 
> ABSOLUTELY ! ! !   Over the years and because somebody told me <G> I have told
> Customers
> (after leaning carb out approx = between running great and hardly running -
> LOL -) to fill-up
> with SHELL (only) Hi-test and go drive about 170 miles south and fill up with
> SHELL (ONLY) Hi-test and come back;  re-fill & do same drive & then go
> directly to Testing Station & get tested.  "If" car fails
> (which has proved to be in serious minority <G>) go around block and lean-out
> further and return to Station.
> Cars have NOT failed after the foregoing <G> <G> <G> ! ! !
> 
> I have had ONE (1) Customer that "knew better" and used Amoco Hi-test and did
> above then FAILED.
> He did the "further lean out" to the point car would hardly run and barely
> made it into Test Lane;
> he STILL FAILED ! ! !
> 
> He did the above Shell + drives and PASSED <VBG> ! ! !   He stopped by later
> same day and told me
> "PLEASE go ahead and say 'I TOLD YOU SO' ".  We had a great laugh ! ! !
> 
> AND  << On 5/24/2013 7:55 AM, Schauss, Peter (ESS) wrote:
> Shortly after I bought my car I discovered that one of the previous owners had
> removed the guts of
> my catalyst ....>>
> 
> Common 'operation' around here.  Easier to just replace with "Test Pipe" (see
> Moss Catalog <G>) as long
> as 'visual' doesn't count <VBG> !  Additional benefit is dissipation of
> exhaust heat ! ! !  Empty cats RETAIN
> *HEAT* (read CHERRY RED & directly under carb <F>) ! ! !
> 
> Also, be SURE you have some sort of Heat Shield;  even if you have to make one
> (roofing flashing tin
> works GREAT <G>),
> 
> Ed
> Please visit MY site at:     www.justbrits.com
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 24 11:41:57 2013
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From: "Schauss, Peter (ESS)" <peter.schauss@ngc.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Thread-Index: AQHOWKVcBNuXFkp5xkmDNb0ldDt+HQ==
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 17:37:27 +0000
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Ed,

Exactly what I did - aluminum flashing for a heat shield.  The heat shield
also kept the oil which leaked from rear gearbox seal from dripping on the hot
catalytic converter.  Before I added the shield, the smoke from the oil on the
cat was a bit disconcerting.  I left the air pump connected which may have
helped keep the cat from getting too hot.

I removed the catalyst seven years ago when New York exempted my from the
emission inspection because it was over 25 years old.

Peter Schauss


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 08:50:30 -0500
From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare

...

Also, be SURE you have some sort of Heat Shield;  even if you have to make one
(roofing flashing tin
works GREAT <G>),

Ed
Please visit MY site at:					www.justbrits.com
_______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

<< On 5/24/2013 12:37 PM, Schauss, Peter (ESS) wrote:

The heat shield also kept the oil which leaked from rear gearbox seal from dripping on the hot
catalytic converter. >>

HUH ? ? ?  HOW does the CARB (with cat directly below) even get NEAR the rear of the
GEARBOX, Peter ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

Ed
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	<519FE862.7080408@justbrits.com>
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 15:38:17 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Just Brits Shop <shop@justbrits.com>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw: float & aircare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

HUH ? ? ?  HOW does the CARB (with cat directly below) even get NEAR the
rear of the
GEARBOX, Peter ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
Drive backwards at speed!
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 00:11:15 2013
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Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 01:06:50 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
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I got to looking at Craigs list today.  Couldn't believe the asking 
prices for most of the MGBs for sale.  I know the value will vary 
according to condition.  Makes me wonder how much they're really selling 
for.

CR
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 00:55:48 2013
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Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 23:50:39 -0700
To: "mgs-autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Don <don@napanet.net>
References: <51A054FA.9040207@ktc.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This isn't the perfect market check, but it will give you a rough 
idea as to values.  You can adjust the year range.  Early ones bring 
a lot more money in most cases.

http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/years/1962-1973/

---------------------------------------------

Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA  / 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 
1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


At 11:06 PM 5/24/2013, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:

>I got to looking at Craigs list today.  Couldn't believe the asking 
>prices for most of the MGBs for sale.  I know the value will vary 
>according to condition.  Makes me wonder how much they're really selling for.
>
>CR
_______________________________________________

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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Richard Ewald" <richard.ewald@gmail.com>, "Just Brits Shop"
	<shop@justbrits.com>
References: <mailman.3464.1369415621.1864.mgs@autox.team.net><8AE45871F749FC4CBBE053CF2F8A493C0D16540E@XMBVAG74.northgrum.com><519FE862.7080408@justbrits.com>
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Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 09:19:23 +0100
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw: float & aircare
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In Australia

----- Original Message ----- 

> HUH ? ? ?  HOW does the CARB (with cat directly below) even get NEAR the
> rear of the
> GEARBOX, Peter ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
> Drive backwards at speed!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulhunt73@virginmedia.com 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 11:41:16 2013
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From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 13:32:55 -0400
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Cc: Magnette ZAZB <zmagnette@mgcars.org.uk>
Subject: [Mgs] British Car week
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Listers,
Today starts :
MAY 25- JUNE 2, 2013 Annual British Car Week. Nationwide -
www.britishcarweek.org

Get in those cars and Drive "em!
Cheers,
Dave Houser
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 11:41:33 2013
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Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 12:37:25 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] bulkhead refinishing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Just a couple of pictures to share today.  While still on the quest of
lifting the tub away, I removed the lower firewall bulkhead yesterday
and freshened it.

Here's how the piece looked after degreasing and stripping what
remained of the black paint, followed by a coat of primer.  In this
picture, the primer is still wet.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130524_093215.jpg

You can see in that picture that a couple of the bolt holes are
deformed and one flange is slightly bent.  After the primer dried, I
straightened all the deformities before painting.  Here's how it
looks, hanging in the garage while the black paint dries.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130525_094340.jpg

Perhaps its worth stating that I am not building a show car, or even a
restored 'correct' car.  I'm building a driver.  And with that said, I
am not making big changes either, like 5-speed gearboxes or worse.
I'm just saving a rusty old relic, to be pretty, to run well, and just
to putter around the neighborhood.  I have other cars for
'frighteningly quick', 'super luxurious', and 'truly correct'.  This
car, like my TR3, if just for play time.

Probably didn't need to say any of that - but I did.

-rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 11:47:03 2013
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Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 12:42:51 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: Don <don@napanet.net>
References: <51A054FA.9040207@ktc.com>
	<mailman.3508.1369464869.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
Cc: "mgs-autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks, that's insightful.

CR
On 5/25/2013 1:50 AM, Don wrote:
> This isn't the perfect market check, but it will give you a rough
> idea as to values.  You can adjust the year range.  Early ones bring
> a lot more money in most cases.
>
> http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/years/1962-1973/
>
> ---------------------------------------------
>
> Don Scott,  Calistoga CA USA  / 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB,
> 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc. Japanese cars
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> At 11:06 PM 5/24/2013, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>
>> I got to looking at Craigs list today.  Couldn't believe the asking
>> prices for most of the MGBs for sale.  I know the value will vary
>> according to condition.  Makes me wonder how much they're really selling for.
>>
>> CR
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
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Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 11:21:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>, MGList List
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
Cc: Magnette ZAZB <zmagnette@mgcars.org.uk>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] British Car week
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dang not today, raining and 54 degrees here in Central NJ! But I have my
window stickers in the Audi and am doing some work in
the garage....

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA




________________________________
 From: W. David
Houser <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Cc:
Magnette ZAZB <zmagnette@mgcars.org.uk> 
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 1:32 PM
Subject: [Mgs] British Car week
 

Listers,
Today starts :
MAY 25- JUNE 2,
2013 Annual British Car Week. Nationwide -
www.britishcarweek.org

Get in
those cars and Drive "em!
Cheers,
Dave Houser
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Donate:
Archive:
Unsubscribe:
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 13:44:47 2013
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From: "David Councill" <dcouncill@karamursel.org>
To: <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 12:31:45 -0700
thread-index: Ac5Zejw6SHi5KFIxQWKzgjlKiLlPEw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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The odds are fairly good that I will attend the MG2013 car show in Oregon as
I am now moving to the adjacent state of Washington and will only be maybe
450 miles away. I have a few questions but I need to put in a bit of context
first. I have owned several MGBs and MGBGTs almost continuously over the
past 37 years. They have proven to be economical and fun vehicles to drive.
On the car show side, I have had some limited exposure. I attended the
Colorado Conclave British car show once about 10-12 years ago and have been
to the Portland (Oregon) British Field Meet twice over the past five years,
all as an observer (and to buy car parts). I have never put a car in a car
show, although people have asked me about it - my cars have always been to
drive. Technically, there isn't anything really show worthy about them, they
are mostly kept original and not necessarily pretty. As this is a NAMGBR
event, I would guess that there could be hundreds  (??) of cars, all MGBs
(GTs and Midgets?). I am looking for some insights from those who have been
to these events in the past relative to some of my many questions below?

 

What would be included in the $100 registration besides 1 car and two
people? Is there a charge just for observers? (I ask because at the Portland
meet, there is a charge for attendees such that I am probably better off
going in with a car plus two - me and my son).

 

When are the swap meet events typically held since I'd mostly be looking for
parts?

 

And I have noticed that some people sell or try to sell their cars at these
meets. Would MG2013 be a good place to sell a car to get a good sell price?
This I ask because I am moving into a smaller house/lot in Washington since
my kids have grown up and left. I have 3 MGs currently plus my son has 2 for
restoration so I am thinking about thinning it out a bit. In particular, I
have a 1967 BGT mostly original including very faded paint, restored
interior, strong original engine/drive train that I have been thinking of
selling (but may change my mind). It is hard to say its value using the
recently posted link from Don but if I could get at least $3500 USD for it,
I'd probably sell it right away, but the lower the price under that, the
greater the reluctance to part with it. I just have too many cars right now,
it is hard to truly enjoy all of them although that will change when I am a
bit further away from where I work.

 

David Councill

64 B

67 BGT

72 B

01 Land Rover Discovery II
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 14:17:11 2013
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Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 14:14:53 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: mgs <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Mgs] A bit behind...
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Finally getting around to sending out some Thank You notes to folks who 
donated
during the Team.Net spring fund drive.  Only about a month and a half 
behind.
I guess it is a good way to spend Decoration Day weekend.

mjb.
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References: <9F552E3B-7851-4F4F-A559-C1205B64DF71@tampabay.rr.com>
From: Robinson Charley <charleyrob@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 17:03:32 -0400
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Cc: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>, Magnette ZAZB <zmagnette@mgcars.org.uk>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] British Car week
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

You Fla. guys are funny. 49 & raining in CT

Sent from my iPhone

On May 25, 2013, at 1:32 PM, "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
wrote:

> Listers,
> Today starts :
> MAY 25- JUNE 2, 2013 Annual British Car Week. Nationwide -
> www.britishcarweek.org
>
> Get in those cars and Drive "em!
> Cheers,
> Dave Houser
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charleyrob@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 14:28:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Breneman <david_breneman@yahoo.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--- On Sat, 5/25/13, David Councill <dcouncill@karamursel.org> wrote:

> The odds are fairly good that I will
> attend the MG2013 car show in Oregon as
> I am now moving to the adjacent state of Washington and will
> only be maybe
> 450 miles away. I have a few questions...


I've got a question - when and where is it?

First I've heard of it.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 15:33:53 2013
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From: dcouncill@karamursel.org
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 21:30:03 +0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Corvallis, Oregon July 17-20

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: David Breneman <david_breneman@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 14:28:18 
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon

--- On Sat, 5/25/13, David Councill <dcouncill@karamursel.org> wrote:

> The odds are fairly good that I will
> attend the MG2013 car show in Oregon as
> I am now moving to the adjacent state of Washington and will
> only be maybe
> 450 miles away. I have a few questions...


I've got a question - when and where is it?

First I've heard of it.
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dcouncill@karamursel.org
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 25 17:19:29 2013
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From: "Peter Schauss" <rpschauss@gmail.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 19:05:59 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5ZcTQQc3yyriXoSeq19QZo0GbrnQAALyRQ
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 72, Issue 29
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ed,

When I converted my '80 B to dual HS4s I replaced the stock intake/exhaust
manifold with the old style intake and exhaust manifolds.  Then, in order to
get the car past emissions inspection, I bought a generic catalytic
converter from J.C. Whitney and spliced it into the exhaust system in front
of the front muffler.  IIRC, this placed the cat near the rear seal of my
overdrive.  I made a heat shield out of a piece of aluminum flashing which I
fastened to the frame cross pieces with sheet metal screws and fender
washers.

When my car aged out of the New York emission inspection requirement, I
decided that the easiest way to remove the catalyst was to replace the
entire exhaust system with an unmodified one. I am keeping the one with the
catalyst in case New York decides to change the law some time in the future.

- Peter Schauss
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 17:23:30 -0500
> From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
> To: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
> Message-ID: <519FE862.7080408@justbrits.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> << On 5/24/2013 12:37 PM, Schauss, Peter (ESS) wrote:
> 
> The heat shield also kept the oil which leaked from rear gearbox seal from
> dripping on the hot
> catalytic converter. >>
> 
> HUH ? ? ?  HOW does the CARB (with cat directly below) even get NEAR the
> rear of the
> GEARBOX, Peter ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
> 
> Ed
> 
********
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 26 08:52:56 2013
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Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 10:21:45 -0400
To: "David Councill" <dcouncill@karamursel.org>,<Mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barrie Robinson <barrie@look.ca>
References: <000c01ce597e$7f19c630$7d4d5290$@karamursel.org>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

David
I go to just a couple of shows a year around Toronto.  $100 is very 
high and personally I would not pay that.  The British Car Day held 
just outside Toronto and gathers over 1,200 Brit cars is just $16 per 
car with as many passengers as you can pack in.  Seems to me $100 is 
a rip off.  But if I paid that I would want food, drinks, live band, 
table cloth on tables and feminine company !  My MGB GT V8 (Rover 
engine) is completely restored and in show condition but I drive it 
all over the place including trips to meets in Carolina and Michigan.  When
I enter shows I do not expect anything more than lining up with other 
MGs and chatting.  I used to win tons of pots and servers with my 
Austin Healey but not with the MGB because the V8 is not "original" 
because judges do not realise that V8s were built by the factory - 
but never sold outside the UK.  Also there are those over restored 
cars that seem to fascinate judges.

Best bet is to find a "local" club and join up with some if they form 
a convoy.  I went to Watkins Glen in convoy with A Healeys, MGs, and 
Triumphs - absolutely fabulous   Crossing the border was a blast - 
One tip - take a Moss catalog with you as one has a tendency to 
forget prices and think vendors are giving you a deal which is 
sometimes true.  Take a look at http://www.britishcarweek.org/

If you are looking for parts - again your local club should 
help.  Some "shows" have vendors but you have to "know" your 
event.  But there are shows that are specifically parts bent as an 
example the show at Ancaster, Ontario,  a great event that is crowded 
with vendors and buyers.

But at $100 I would give the MG2013 a miss especially as you have not 
been blooded on more friendly events

At 12:31 PM 25/05/2013 -0700, David Councill wrote:
>The odds are fairly good that I will attend the MG2013 car show in Oregon as
>I am now moving to the adjacent state of Washington and will only be maybe
>450 miles away. I have a few questions but I need to put in a bit of context
>first. I have owned several MGBs and MGBGTs almost continuously over the
>past 37 years. They have proven to be economical and fun vehicles to drive.
>On the car show side, I have had some limited exposure. I attended the
>Colorado Conclave British car show once about 10-12 years ago and have been
>to the Portland (Oregon) British Field Meet twice over the past five years,
>all as an observer (and to buy car parts). I have never put a car in a car
>show, although people have asked me about it - my cars have always been to
>drive. Technically, there isn't anything really show worthy about them, they
>are mostly kept original and not necessarily pretty. As this is a NAMGBR
>event, I would guess that there could be hundreds  (??) of cars, all MGBs
>(GTs and Midgets?). I am looking for some insights from those who have been
>to these events in the past relative to some of my many questions below?
>
>
>
>What would be included in the $100 registration besides 1 car and two
>people? Is there a charge just for observers? (I ask because at the Portland
>meet, there is a charge for attendees such that I am probably better off
>going in with a car plus two - me and my son).
>
>
>
>When are the swap meet events typically held since I'd mostly be looking for
>parts?
>
>
>
>And I have noticed that some people sell or try to sell their cars at these
>meets. Would MG2013 be a good place to sell a car to get a good sell price?
>This I ask because I am moving into a smaller house/lot in Washington since
>my kids have grown up and left. I have 3 MGs currently plus my son has 2 for
>restoration so I am thinking about thinning it out a bit. In particular, I
>have a 1967 BGT mostly original including very faded paint, restored
>interior, strong original engine/drive train that I have been thinking of
>selling (but may change my mind). It is hard to say its value using the
>recently posted link from Don but if I could get at least $3500 USD for it,
>I'd probably sell it right away, but the lower the price under that, the
>greater the reluctance to part with it. I just have too many cars right now,
>it is hard to truly enjoy all of them although that will change when I am a
>bit further away from where I work.
>
>
>
>David Councill
>
>64 B
>
>67 BGT
>
>72 B
>
>01 Land Rover Discovery II
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs@autox.team.net
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>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrie@look.ca

Regards,

Barrie Robinson
barrie@look.ca
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8  in great nick
Aston Martin 1957 DB 2/4 MkII under restoration
www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm
www.britcot.com
www.AMFClub.com
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	<519FE862.7080408@justbrits.com>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 07:59:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: "Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm guess he mounted the cat below the car, since I think he said he sourced a
universal cat, not necessarily one specifically for
the B.

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
Happy British Cars Week!




________________________________
From: "Just Brits " Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Friday, May 24, 2013 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Fw:  float & aircare
 

<< On
5/24/2013 12:37 PM, Schauss, Peter (ESS) wrote:

The heat shield also kept the
oil which leaked from rear gearbox seal from dripping on the hot
catalytic
converter. >>

HUH ? ? ?  HOW does the CARB (with cat directly below) even get
NEAR the rear of the
GEARBOX, Peter ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

Ed
_______________________________________________

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	<mailman.3508.1369464869.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 08:00:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Don <don@napanet.net>, "mgs-autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

You can also view 'completed' listings on eBay, that should tell you the sale
price. That way, you can have more of a local view.

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central
NJ USA
Happy British Cars Week!




________________________________
 From:
Don <don@napanet.net>
To: mgs-autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Saturday, May 25, 2013 2:50 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
 

This isn't
the perfect market check, but it will give you a rough 
idea as to values. 
You can adjust the year range.  Early ones bring 
a lot more money in most
cases.
http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/years/1962-197
3/

---------------------------------------------

Don Scott,  Calistoga CA
USA  / 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB, 
1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc.
Japanese cars
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------


At 11:06 PM 5/24/2013, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:

>I got to
looking at Craigs list today.  Couldn't believe the asking 
>prices for most
of the MGBs for sale.  I know the value will vary 
>according to condition. 
Makes me wonder how much they're really selling for.
>
>CR
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun May 26 09:23:29 2013
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To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Cc: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] OT Rant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 27/05/2013, at 12:25 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
wrote:

> What the #e!! was NBC thinking?!  They time delayed the Monaco F1
> Grand Prix then ran the POST RACE SHOW before the race, spoiling it!
> The local NBC channel here in Houston (or someone, network?) also
> edited the race coverage to fit their time slot.  If their goal was to
> alienate the F1 fans, they certainly succeeded!  And why was it
> delayed?  To air a FISHING show!  What a bunch of losers.


Wow, even we get to see it LIVE (and it finished before midnight which
changes when they go to Canada).

It was a more interesting race than Monaco usually throws up (and isn't Checo
Perez getting aggressive? :)


And isn't Grosjean getting more silly
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Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 11:06:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] OT Rant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I watched some of it on the local NBC station, then switched to NBC Sports
Network, where they did the conclusion and post-race
interviews....

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
Happy British Cars Week!
________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List"
<mgs@autox.team.net>; mg-t@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 10:55 AM
Subject: [Mgs] OT Rant
 

What the #e!! was NBC thinking?!  They time delayed
the Monaco F1
Grand Prix then ran the POST RACE SHOW before the race, spoiling
it!
The local NBC channel here in Houston (or someone, network?) also
edited
the race coverage to fit their time slot.  If their goal was to
alienate the
F1 fans, they certainly succeeded!  And why was it
delayed?  To air a FISHING
show!  What a bunch of losers.

-rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 27 07:37:08 2013
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 08:33:04 -0500
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
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To: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>,  "mgs@Autox.Team.Net"
	<mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <51A054FA.9040207@ktc.com>
	<mailman.3508.1369464869.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
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Thanks, I'm going to look for that.

CR
On 5/26/2013 10:00 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
> You can also view 'completed' listings on eBay, that should tell you the sale
> price. That way, you can have more of a local view.
>
> Dan D
> '76B
> '65B
> Central
> NJ USA
> Happy British Cars Week!
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>   From:
> Don <don@napanet.net>
> To: mgs-autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Sent:
> Saturday, May 25, 2013 2:50 AM
> Subject: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
>   
>
> This isn't
> the perfect market check, but it will give you a rough
> idea as to values.
> You can adjust the year range.  Early ones bring
> a lot more money in most
> cases.
> http://collectorcarpricetracker.com/auctions/make/MG/model/MGB/years/1962-197
> 3/
>
> ---------------------------------------------
>
> Don Scott,  Calistoga CA
> USA  / 1955 MGTF, 1962 MGA Mk 2, 1967 MGB,
> 1963-7 MGB (seeking), Misc.
> Japanese cars
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --------
>
>
> At 11:06 PM 5/24/2013, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>
>> I got to
> looking at Craigs list today.  Couldn't believe the asking
>> prices for most
> of the MGBs for sale.  I know the value will vary
>> according to condition.
> Makes me wonder how much they're really selling for.
>> CR
> _______________________________________________
>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 27 08:48:37 2013
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
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<< On 5/27/2013 8:33 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> Thanks, I'm going to look for that. >>

Plz let us know what you find out, Charley.

Should be TX interesting <G> <G> <G> ! ! !
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon May 27 13:07:09 2013
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 14:01:16 -0500
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To: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <shop@justbrits.com>
References: <51A054FA.9040207@ktc.com>
	<mailman.3508.1369464869.1864.mgs@autox.team.net>
	<1369580441.79113.YahooMailNeo@web164903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Value of a MGB?
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Ed 'n all,

Took a look.  Most of those actually sold were at reasonable prices.  
Some rough ones fer cheep; some restos sold in the low teens.  The ones 
with astronomical prices are still for sale.

CR
On 5/27/2013 9:39 AM, " Just Brits " Shop wrote:
> << On 5/27/2013 8:33 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
>> Thanks, I'm going to look for that. >>
> Plz let us know what you find out, Charley.
>
> Should be TX interesting <G> <G> <G> ! ! !
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 15:09:06 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] The tub, she be free
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Today I removed the TD's tub from the chassis!  I installed two angle
irons, one under each side at the mount points.  I also re-installed
the sub-facia to give lateral support there, and I also added ropes to
the heavier rear of the tub to control tilt.  Here's how it looked
once lifted clear of the hoop.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130527_125835.jpg

Once airborne, the tub rotated on the ropes but that was no issue.

I next rolled to chassis from under the tub, swept the floor and
lowered the tub to the garage floor.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130527_130140.jpg

Here's the chassis sitting over in the 'forbidden zone' (read: Nancy's
parking place).

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130527_130153.jpg

I next assembled a pair of sawhorses I purchased just for this
purpose.  I then raised the tub again, placed the horses under the tub
and lowered it onto them.  I then carefully slid the sawhorses, tub
clamped there upon, over to the storage space.  With that done, I
could roll the chassis back to the work area - all before Nancy's
catching my invasion into preordained space. :-P

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130527_143118.jpg

Next up, I just took a couple of pictures of the chassis, sans body.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130527_143247.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130527_143306.jpg

I now have a tiny bit of tub repair to complete before tackling the
really fun part - the drive train.  Woohoo!

-rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 10:49:23 2013
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 09:36:10 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] OT Rant
Thread-Index: Ac5bwXWX3v83HAgHCEys26gKYCc78g==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] OT Rant
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Yeah, got me too. Unbelievable.

on 5/26/13 7:55 AM, Richard Lindsay at richardolindsay@gmail.com wrote:

> What the #e!! was NBC thinking?!  They time delayed the Monaco F1
> Grand Prix then ran the POST RACE SHOW before the race, spoiling it!
> The local NBC channel here in Houston (or someone, network?) also
> edited the race coverage to fit their time slot.  If their goal was to
> alienate the F1 fans, they certainly succeeded!  And why was it
> delayed?  To air a FISHING show!  What a bunch of losers.
> 
> -rick


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 11:19:40 2013
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 09:46:50 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon
Thread-Index: Ac5Zejw6SHi5KFIxQWKzgjlKiLlPEwCSLbUx
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG2013 - Oregon
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Read the event literature or web site to see what is provided for the
registration fee. Based on past events, this probably includes a t-shirt and
other tchotkes, a tour or road run of some kind, and a dinner or BBQ. It's
not $100 for just a one-day show entry.

British car meets always include a range of cars from survivors, drivers and
barn finds to concours contenders, and the participants have a similar range
of interests. Yes, there are people who are only interested in "pefect"
cars, but there are plenty of people who aren't comfortable talking about
concours points, but are willing to swap breakdown yarns and family
histories.

This is the national meet for one of the two nationwide MGB organizations
(why we need two is another question), so I would expect a good turnout from
the west coast, at least. It would probably be a very good place to show a
car for sale.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires


on 5/25/13 12:31 PM, David Councill at dcouncill@karamursel.org wrote:

> The odds are fairly good that I will attend the MG2013 car show in Oregon as
> I am now moving to the adjacent state of Washington and will only be maybe
> 450 miles away. I have a few questions but I need to put in a bit of context
> first. I have owned several MGBs and MGBGTs almost continuously over the
> past 37 years. They have proven to be economical and fun vehicles to drive.
> On the car show side, I have had some limited exposure. I attended the
> Colorado Conclave British car show once about 10-12 years ago and have been
> to the Portland (Oregon) British Field Meet twice over the past five years,
> all as an observer (and to buy car parts). I have never put a car in a car
> show, although people have asked me about it - my cars have always been to
> drive. Technically, there isn't anything really show worthy about them, they
> are mostly kept original and not necessarily pretty. As this is a NAMGBR
> event, I would guess that there could be hundreds  (??) of cars, all MGBs
> (GTs and Midgets?). I am looking for some insights from those who have been
> to these events in the past relative to some of my many questions below?
> 
>  
> 
> What would be included in the $100 registration besides 1 car and two
> people? Is there a charge just for observers? (I ask because at the Portland
> meet, there is a charge for attendees such that I am probably better off
> going in with a car plus two - me and my son).
> 
>  
> 
> When are the swap meet events typically held since I'd mostly be looking for
> parts?
> 
>  
> 
> And I have noticed that some people sell or try to sell their cars at these
> meets. Would MG2013 be a good place to sell a car to get a good sell price?
> This I ask because I am moving into a smaller house/lot in Washington since
> my kids have grown up and left. I have 3 MGs currently plus my son has 2 for
> restoration so I am thinking about thinning it out a bit. In particular, I
> have a 1967 BGT mostly original including very faded paint, restored
> interior, strong original engine/drive train that I have been thinking of
> selling (but may change my mind). It is hard to say its value using the
> recently posted link from Don but if I could get at least $3500 USD for it,
> I'd probably sell it right away, but the lower the price under that, the
> greater the reluctance to part with it. I just have too many cars right now,
> it is hard to truly enjoy all of them although that will change when I am a
> bit further away from where I work.
> 
>  
> 
> David Councill
> 
> 64 B
> 
> 67 BGT
> 
> 72 B
> 
> 01 Land Rover Discovery II
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 11:53:27 2013
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 12:48:58 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] A little work...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Did a little work on the TD today.  Here's the place where I started:
Rust on the roll where it attaches to the tub.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_092233.jpg

Here's that same flange on the roll, after cleaning, removing the
rust, sanding and primering.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100619.jpg

Here's the wider view.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100614.jpg

As you can see, I'm working from high to low (so gravity helps, not
hurts) and from the middle of the frame outward, cleaning degreasing,
de-rusting as I go.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_101355.jpg

And here are a couple more looks, a little closer in.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100631.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100650.jpg

While the primer was drying, and to keep from spreading sanding dust
into the wet primer, I moved to the engine.  I removed the plenum -
the air cleaner had already been removed and refinished - and the
carbs.  Here they are on the (exceptionally messy) bench.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100358.jpg

And here's where they came from.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100408.jpg

Here are a couple more pictures, just to document the coming-apart process.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100416.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130528_100432.jpg

Note the WHITE socks today!

-rick
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Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 13:03:35 -0600
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net, bmcu@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] '78 B licensed!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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My new to me '78 B is legally licensed!

Had to share.

--
Andrew
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue May 28 14:53:38 2013
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To: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
References: <51A4FF87.8@byu.net>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] '78 B licensed!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good!  Go take a ride.  Got a pic?

CR

On 5/28/2013 2:03 PM, Andrew Lundgren wrote:
> My new to me '78 B is legally licensed!
>
> Had to share.
>
> -- 
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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References: <51A4FF87.8@byu.net>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 13:58:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>, "bmcu@autox.team.net" <bmcu@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] '78 B licensed!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Congrats, Andrew!

Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To:
mgs@autox.team.net; bmcu@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 3:03 PM
Subject: [Mgs] '78 B licensed!
 

My new to me '78 B is legally licensed!

Had
to share.

--
Andrew
_______________________________________________
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From: Monte Jane Morris <montejane@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 21:01:24 -0500
To: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Won't start
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Mystery solved!

Original problem:
Drove car 15 miles, ran great. Shut it off and it didn't want to start (it
always starts right up). Got it started and drove home; car ran great for
the 8 miles home. Shut it off in the garage and it wouldn't start. That was
in February. I've been trying to trace the problem off and on since. I
replaced the coil and ballast resistor and Paul helped me fix the wiring
problem I created when I replaced the original OPUS/electronic ignition
with a 45D points dizzy many years back. I also replaced the ground wire in
the distributor.  I was getting a spark at the points when I separated them
with a screwdriver, but I still wasn't getting fire to the plugs. I could
see the points were opening and closing from above and I thought that I had
gotten a piece of sandpaper all the way through the points to clean them.
Finally, after  removing the distributor for closer inspection I found a
small "pip" at the bottom of the points and a groove it fit in on the
other. It must have not been letting a spark form.
After replacing the points and condenser, it fired up on the first "crank".
I'm sure any mechanic that would have looked under the hood would probably
have diagnosed the problem within a few minutes. It took me a little
longer:)

Thanks to all who offered advice with this.

Monte, 79B with HIF's
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 29 06:45:34 2013
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Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 05:41:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Just some tub-off pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

C'mon, Rick, everyone knows you are supposed to wear Birkenstocks with black
socks and shorts / rolled-up pants!


Dan D
'76B
'65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay@gmail.com>


And before you look at the next picture, I must
state a disclaimer:  I
do NOT usually wear black socks with shorts!  Actually,
my long pant
legs are rolled up because I fell this morning and scraped up my
knees
on the concrete sidewalk.  My heart is healthier but my knees are
buggered.  They're coated in Neosporin, even as I type...  Okay, now
you can
look at the picture. :-)
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 29 15:22:15 2013
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From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'Andrew Lundgren'" <lundgren@byu.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	<bmcu@autox.team.net>
References: <51A4FF87.8@byu.net>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 23:01:27 +0200
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Content-Language: nl
	FILETIME=[ADAF44A0:01CE5CAF]
Subject: Re: [Mgs] '78 B licensed!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good show!

Cheers,
Hans

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens
Andrew Lundgren
Verzonden: dinsdag 28 mei 2013 21:04
Aan: mgs@autox.team.net; bmcu@autox.team.net
Onderwerp: [Mgs] '78 B licensed!

My new to me '78 B is legally licensed!

Had to share.

--
Andrew 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu May 30 16:26:53 2013
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Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 17:22:12 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Frame painting begins
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Limited prose this evening, plus a few pictures.

I have painted part of the frame with POR15.  I've also cleaned and
refinished the left rear axle and hub.  I'll replace the brake shoes
and rebuild the slave cylinder later.  Here are a couple of pictures.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_104439.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_105247e.jpg

I also discovered that the rubber spacers for the rear hinges are not
in the rubber kit I have so I have ordered them and the pads at the
axle attachment.  I also ordered all new brake lines.  I have the new
flex hoses and copper sealing washers.  Here is a pictures of the
spring, as removed.  I'll write more when the bits arrive and assembly
begins.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_074801.jpg

I also ordered all new brake lines.  I already have the new flex
hoses.  Here are a couple of pictures, mostly to aid in proper new
line routing.  I'll write more when the bits arrive and assembly
begins.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_161434.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_161453.jpg

And that's it.  Tomorrow I will continue working the left side of the
rear frame.

-rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri May 31 11:47:32 2013
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Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 12:43:12 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net,
	Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Refinishing the diff.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Yesterday I commented that my quest for this morning was to clean more
of the rear axle and the diff.  That plan went well, leaving the
garage AND me uber-messy.  Allow me to share a few pictures.

Here's how the rear of the diff looked when I started.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_161508.jpg

Here's how it looks today.  Notice the brake fluid 3-way fitting.  It
has been cleaned, inside and out, polished and clear-coated.  Its
awaiting the new flex line and the hard lines out to the wheel
cylinders.  The flex is in hand, the hard lines will be here Tuesday.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130531_113303.jpg

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130531_113312.jpg

Once the paint dries, I'll drain the diff. fluid and replace it with
fresh, new Redline 90 weight hypoid oil.  (Yes, I have learned the
hard way; ALWAYS verify that the filler port can be opened BEFORE
draining the oil!)

And as I worked on the pumpkin, I realized that I couldn't complete
this work properly without cleaning up the U-joint too.  Here's how it
looked when I started.  That's A LOT of grimy grease!

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_161527.jpg

Here's a look after degreasing and refinishing.  I'll finish the prop
shaft later.  I'll also pump new grease into the U-joint once the
paint dries.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130531_120351.jpg

I'm debating whether to clean up the front U-joint and expansion slide
now or refurbish it later when I pull the gearbox.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130530_161518.jpg

I think I'll wait.  Either way, I now have to clean up the garage!!!

-rick
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