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From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2013 10:11:49 -0400
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] MG art
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,
Anyone have any resources for MG art, specifically the grills on a TD, MGA,
MGB, and Midget?
Our club is designing a logo for our GOF next year and we are looking for
reference material to design something with the grills on these models.
TIA,
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2013 16:46:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carl French <leylandauto@yahoo.com>
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>, "W. David Houser"
	<mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG art
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

George Herschell in Webster, NY?

http://www.mgexp.com/member/George+Herschell

Carl French

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 11/1/13, W. David Houser <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:

 Subject: [Mgs] MG art
 To: "MGList List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
 Date: Friday, November 1, 2013, 10:11 AM

 Listers,
 Anyone have any resources for MG art, specifically the
 grills on a TD, MGA,
 MGB, and Midget?
 Our club is designing a logo for our GOF next year and we
 are looking for
 reference material to design something with the grills on
 these models.
 TIA,
 _______________________________________________

 Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  1 18:17:05 2013
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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2013 19:08:48 -0500
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] TD dash assembly
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Yesterday I cemented the upholstery on to the face of the TD's dash.
Today I wrapped it around the edges, into the openings and cemented on
the back. I then installed the chrome trim bands. Here's how it looked
before starting assembly - well, except for the edge trim.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131101_162904.jpg

And of course, I couldn't resist setting the big instruments in place
for a photo-op.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131101_164926.jpg

I decided to assemble the instrument panel next before working on the
glove box hinges and door. Here's how it looks sitting on the
workbench.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131101_175229e.jpg

I have new lamp bezels, and lamps, but just didn't get around to
digging them out of the parts box.

Notice the dimmer knob. It is damaged and the replacement I bought
from Moss doesn't fit. I think its time for some sculpting with J-B
Weld. More on that later.

I also spent a bunch of time working on the Volvo 1800ES. I replaced
the struts on the rear glass and rebuilt the tail lights. And just for
diversity, here how the right-rear tail light looks.

http://www.aubard.us/1800ES/20131101_140219e.jpg

-rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  1 19:30:07 2013
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2013 21:26:28 -0400
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Subject: [Mgs] best use for a dead cat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Been a while since we had a cat thread...
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2154283/Cats-away-Artist-turns-dead-p
et-flying-helicopter-killed-car.html#ixzz2jKJ5iSwv

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  1 23:12:19 2013
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Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2013 23:07:40 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <5272A86F.9040108@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Rear axle pinion thrust washer?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

As a follow up, there is a driveline specialty shop a few dorrs down 
from Bailey's.  They
scrounged around and came up with a handful of shims in appropriate 
diameters and
thicknesses.  Got the diff set up with the contact patch in the sweet 
spot where it belongs,
no need for drastic measures.

Well, my fingers still have the faint aroma of gear oil that came from 
animals that died
millions of years ago, but that can be fixed.

mjb.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  2 01:42:23 2013
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2013 02:29:28 -0500
From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 78, Issue 1
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Not really a thrust washer as described. It's a spacer. IIR, none of the 
pinion or diff cage spacers are available for any of the Salisbury 
diffs. There's a vague chance you might find some on ebay. I haven't 
found an alternative source other than getting lucky and I think some 
people are bred for that. If you go the fabrication route, make sure 
it's ground parallel to, like zero tolerance. Even dirt under it during 
installation can throw off the side spacing on the crown wheel.

This wouldbe an excellent cottage industry for someone recently retired 
with machinery and interest. A lot of rear ends could be saved that 
would otherwise end up crushed. You can get new gears and new bearings, 
but if you can't set them up what good are they?

Glenn


On 11/1/2013 1:00 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> From: Mark J Bradakis<mark@bradakis.com>
> To: MG List<mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Rear axle pinion thrust washer?
> Message-ID:<5272A86F.9040108@bradakis.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Being a Triumph sort of person, I'm not well versed in tracking down MGB
> parts.
> Moss Motors lists the
>
>
> 267-900 THRUST WASHER, pinion .222"
>
> as N/A, in any of the thicknesses.
>
> Are there alternate sources for these items, or are we looking at custom
> fabrication?
>
> Thanks,
>
> mjb.
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2013 11:26:07 -0400
From: Bill Saidel <saidel@camden.rutgers.edu>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <B2B9B158D59A475DA8987A02F05A7C10@EricJRussellPC>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] best use for a dead cat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 11/1/2013 9:26 PM, Eric J Russell wrote:
> Been a while since we had a cat thread...
> http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2154283/Cats-away-Artist-turns-dead-p
> et-flying-helicopter-killed-car.html#ixzz2jKJ5iSwv
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
> _______________________________________________
>

Old News, Eric.

For a more up-to-date animal discussion, try a flying ostrich

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HS-4s0ilxhs.

Now imagine an entire army of flying dead forest animals coming at you 
as you drive along a beautiful country road.  Just imagine!

Bill Saidel
BMCSNJ
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  2 12:01:44 2013
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From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'Carl French'" <leylandauto@yahoo.com>, "'MGList List'"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>, "'W. David Houser'" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
References: <6926C587-2B51-4865-9282-F293F476C015@tampabay.rr.com>
	<1383349581.78003.YahooMailBasic@web120702.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2013 18:54:08 +0100
Thread-index: AQKBFyZIF3A9aA9b0VpqHCjrG70krZituooQ
Content-Language: nl
	FILETIME=[831E0DA0:01CED7F4]
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG art
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I always liked the logo of this Dutch  British car specialist.
http://www.britishsportscars.nl/wie-zijn-wij.html 

Cheers,
Hans

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens
Carl French
Verzonden: zaterdag 2 november 2013 0:46
Aan: MGList List; W. David Houser
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] MG art

George Herschell in Webster, NY?

http://www.mgexp.com/member/George+Herschell

Carl French

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 11/1/13, W. David Houser <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:

 Subject: [Mgs] MG art
 To: "MGList List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
 Date: Friday, November 1, 2013, 10:11 AM

 Listers,
 Anyone have any resources for MG art, specifically the  grills on a TD,
MGA,  MGB, and Midget?
 Our club is designing a logo for our GOF next year and we  are looking for
reference material to design something with the grills on  these models.
 TIA,
 _______________________________________________

 Mgs@autox.team.net
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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---
Dit e-mailbericht bevat geen virussen en malware omdat avast! Antivirus actief is.
http://www.avast.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  2 12:52:33 2013
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From: "gordies garage" <mg_garage@comcast.net>
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>, "MGList List"
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <6926C587-2B51-4865-9282-F293F476C015@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2013 14:49:50 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG art
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

How about Steve Petrosky, www.driversroad.com...

Gordie

--------------------------------------------------
From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, November 01, 2013 10:11 AM
To: "MGList List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] MG art

> Listers,
> Anyone have any resources for MG art, specifically the grills on a TD, 
> MGA,
> MGB, and Midget?
> Our club is designing a logo for our GOF next year and we are looking for
> reference material to design something with the grills on these models.
> TIA,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  2 15:43:15 2013
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2013 16:41:09 -0500
From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 77, Issue 24
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Norm,

I get the digest and can't filter just your messages. Please clam the 
political talking points.

Unless you want to pay for my bandwidth, of course.

Glenn

On 10/29/2013 1:00 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Re: The End of Car Culture (Norm)
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 09:04:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>, MGList List
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG art
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave, I have a print of a painting by Kevin Walsh - he does all sorts of
British car-related art -

http://www.kevinwalshoriginals.com/index.html

I
didn't see the print I have on his website - it is called Aero Club and is a
view of a couple of WWI-era planes with a TD in the foreground.

Dan D
'76B 
'65B
Central NJ USA




________________________________
 From: W. David
Houser <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
To: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Friday, November 1, 2013 10:11 AM
Subject: [Mgs] MG art
 

Listers,
Anyone
have any resources for MG art, specifically the grills on a TD, MGA,
MGB, and
Midget?
Our club is designing a logo for our GOF next year and we are looking
for
reference material to design something with the grills on these models.
TIA,
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/d_dibiase@yahoo.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 11:37:05 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 12:01:23 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] mg tf tail lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

hi.  am I correct in thinking that the mg tf tail light bulbs are the same as
for all the td models?

thanks!
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 13:12:29 2013
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References: <8660FE30A7654F578DB3A3995C288A74@Datsun>
From: Tuck Southworth <tuck.southworth@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 14:43:10 -0500
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: "<mgs@autox.team.net>" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mg tf tail lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave
The round TF tail light assemblies were the same as the TD starting in late
1952.  Before that the TD tail lights were rectangular.
Tuck

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 4, 2013, at 1:01 PM, "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
>
> hi.  am I correct in thinking that the mg tf tail light bulbs are the same
as
> for all the td models?
>
> thanks!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 13:43:34 2013
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From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 15:37:05 -0500
References: <8660FE30A7654F578DB3A3995C288A74@Datsun>
	<6B5954BD-D458-4220-B514-8BCC22B2D6C5@gmail.com>
To: Tuck Southworth <tuck.southworth@gmail.com>
Cc: "<mgs@autox.team.net>" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mg tf tail lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,
Believe Dave asked about the bulbs, in which case they are the same as the
late TD because the assemblies changed in Oct. 52, I believe. They included
directional bulbs, not just stop light.
Cheers,
Dave Houser


On Nov 4, 2013, at 2:43 PM, Tuck Southworth wrote:

> Dave
> The round TF tail light assemblies were the same as the TD starting in late
> 1952.  Before that the TD tail lights were rectangular.
> Tuck
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Nov 4, 2013, at 1:01 PM, "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
>>
>> hi.  am I correct in thinking that the mg tf tail light bulbs are the same
> as
>> for all the td models?
>>
>> thanks!
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/tuck.southworth@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 14:56:24 2013
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From: Truxtun Southworth <tuck.southworth@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 16:50:48 -0500
References: <8660FE30A7654F578DB3A3995C288A74@Datsun>
	<6B5954BD-D458-4220-B514-8BCC22B2D6C5@gmail.com>
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To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Cc: Mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mg tf tail lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep..
 saw my mistake as soon as I pushed send so I tossed out another note to
simply ignore my earlier post.


On Nov 4, 2013, at 3:37 PM, W. David Houser <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:

> Listers,
> Believe Dave asked about the bulbs, in which case they are the same as the
late TD because the assemblies changed in Oct. 52, I believe. They included
directional bulbs, not just stop light.
> Cheers,
> Dave Houser
>
>
> On Nov 4, 2013, at 2:43 PM, Tuck Southworth wrote:
>
>> Dave
>> The round TF tail light assemblies were the same as the TD starting in
late
>> 1952.  Before that the TD tail lights were rectangular.
>> Tuck
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Nov 4, 2013, at 1:01 PM, "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> hi.  am I correct in thinking that the mg tf tail light bulbs are the
same
>> as
>>> for all the td models?
>>>
>>> thanks!
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/tuck.southworth@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 17:00:30 2013
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 17:29:39 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] TD glove box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Installing the glovebox door is a royal PITA! No, putting the screws
in isn't an issue. The problem is that the original rexine, or
whatever it was called, is about half as thick as the generic vinyl
upholstery material that Moss includes with the interior kit. And that
doesn't seem like much difference BUT, the glovebox opening has
upholstery all around the opening, AND the door has upholstery on both
sides. That's four thicknesses of double-thick vinyl. The fit is close
already and the added thickness exceeds the limit. The door wouldn't
close. I had to go back and trim away vinyl to make it fit. BUT, it
can be done.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131104_170623e.jpg

Best regards, my friends,

Rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 08:30:47 2013
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From: "David F. Darby" <ddarby@centurytel.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <vkor87ns6a1yo6ihbq54h6l3.1383657297325@email.android.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 08:58:59 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac7aK2TOKzphV7SzRTKrhwPVlfGWbAADAIVA
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Gearbox oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Rick,

I would go with no. 2. Most dirt and particulates in there will drain out
now and then a short run-in of a few hundred miles will further flush it
out.

In fact, I've just had an even better idea. Drain, change, drive the few
hundred miles to my SW Missouri location, turn over keys and title and I'll
take it from there. Would you prefer a bus or plane ticket home? ;-)

Seriously, thanks again for posting your progress. You've done a terrific
job and it's been a real inspiration.

Cheers,

David


-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rick Lindsay
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2013 7:15 AM
To: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Gearbox oil

Hello Friends,

I write this morning requesting advice.

I'm not far from starting the TD for the first time. My concern is for the
gearbox oil. Should I,

1. Change the oil now and call it 'good'?

2. Change the oil now then change again after running a bit?

3. Leave the old, clean-looking oil in place, for now?

4. Idle the box in neutral until warm, using the old oil to 'clean' the
insides, then change?

5. Some other plan?

I'm a gearbox novice. Advice appreciated.B 

-rick
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 10:10:23 2013
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From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 12:05:15 -0500
References: <vkor87ns6a1yo6ihbq54h6l3.1383657297325@email.android.com>
	<36417CAD923A4115A69AD348B9751039@YOURF3E40984A8>
To: "David F. Darby" <ddarby@centurytel.net>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Gearbox oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Rick,
I echo David's thoughts and would also suggest you put out a rebuild book with
all the wonderful, never obtain anywhere else, photos you painstakingly posted
for all of us who have followed your progress. Enjoy your ride! I'll take the
first book!
Cheers,
Dave Houser


On Nov 5, 2013, at 9:58 AM, David F. Darby wrote:

> Hello Rick,
>
> I would go with no. 2. Most dirt and particulates in there will drain out
> now and then a short run-in of a few hundred miles will further flush it
> out.
>
> In fact, I've just had an even better idea. Drain, change, drive the few
> hundred miles to my SW Missouri location, turn over keys and title and I'll
> take it from there. Would you prefer a bus or plane ticket home? ;-)
>
> Seriously, thanks again for posting your progress. You've done a terrific
> job and it's been a real inspiration.
>
> Cheers,
>
> David
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Rick Lindsay
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2013 7:15 AM
> To: mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Gearbox oil
>
> Hello Friends,
>
> I write this morning requesting advice.
>
> I'm not far from starting the TD for the first time. My concern is for the
> gearbox oil. Should I,
>
> 1. Change the oil now and call it 'good'?
>
> 2. Change the oil now then change again after running a bit?
>
> 3. Leave the old, clean-looking oil in place, for now?
>
> 4. Idle the box in neutral until warm, using the old oil to 'clean' the
> insides, then change?
>
> 5. Some other plan?
>
> I'm a gearbox novice. Advice appreciated.B
>
> -rick
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 16:04:04 2013
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2013 16:34:29 -0600
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Gearbox oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks everyone, for the advice!

-rick
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  7 15:42:12 2013
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From: "Carr&Edwards" <scvc70@epix.net>
To: "MG list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 17:16:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA 5-speed?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone make a 5-speed conversion kit [not the Moss Motors one] for the
MGA   (like the old "Smitty's 5-Speed" supply-your-own-gearbox kit made for
the Big Healeys)?

Sarah Carr
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  7 16:16:38 2013
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 16:10:40 -0700
From: "jello@cableone.net" <jello@cableone.net>
To: "Carr&Edwards" <scvc70@epix.net>
Cc: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA 5-speed?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Search the web a bit.  There were people making conversions from Datsun
transmissions out of their 2wd trucks and Z-cars and putting them in
MGB's.  I think they may have made conversions for MGA's as well.

Phil


On Thu, Nov 7, 2013 at 3:16 PM, Carr&Edwards <scvc70@epix.net> wrote:

> Does anyone make a 5-speed conversion kit [not the Moss Motors one] for the
> MGA   (like the old "Smitty's 5-Speed" supply-your-own-gearbox kit made for
> the Big Healeys)?
>
> Sarah Carr
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 10:14:13 2013
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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 11:11:52 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Wing paint
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Taking the TD's wings for paint today. The tub id Autumn Red. The
wings, running boards, and valances will be black - soon. Now that the
car is running, I'm excited to driving!

-rick.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 17:14:47 2013
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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 18:14:13 -0600
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net, rui.gigante@gmail.com
Subject: [Mgs] Wings and things
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hi Friends,

Today I took my '53 TD's wings, running boards and aprons (front and rear), to the painter. They will be stripped, surface rust ground away, sealed with an acid etch primer (all sides), then a leveling primer. The top coats will be DuPont single stage urethane in gloss black.

Just to share, the all-in cost is $1060.00, with half up front, and an under 10 days turnaround.

-rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 14:05:46 2013
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From: Truxtun Southworth <tuck.southworth@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 16:05:02 -0500
To: "<mgs@autox.team.net>" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Jean Kimber Cook passes away
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all,
I read this today on Facebook,

"We were saddened to learn that Jean Kimber Cook, daughter of Cecil Kimber,
passed away this morning.
The funeral is to be arranged as a private family only service.
It is early days yet to know if there will be a memorial service.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 17:17:32 2013
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From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 19:06:02 -0500
References: <972A3026-4197-47BB-9B2A-68D99B2CE457@gmail.com>
To: Truxtun Southworth <tuck.southworth@gmail.com>
Cc: "<mgs@autox.team.net>" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Jean Kimber Cook passes away
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Tuck,
Sad news about a spirited, spunky lady we were fortunate to have met several
times at T-Register gatherings. Her favorite was..."M.G. stands for M.G.!
Dave Houser

On Nov 12, 2013, at 4:05 PM, Truxtun Southworth wrote:

> all,
> I read this today on Facebook,
>
> "We were saddened to learn that Jean Kimber Cook, daughter of Cecil Kimber,
> passed away this morning.
> The funeral is to be arranged as a private family only service.
> It is early days yet to know if there will be a memorial service.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 18:35:22 2013
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From: Truxtun Southworth <tuck.southworth@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 20:34:36 -0500
References: <972A3026-4197-47BB-9B2A-68D99B2CE457@gmail.com>
	<426E81B1-FF08-4B05-9E41-5750A00987BB@tampabay.rr.com>
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Cc: "<mgs@autox.team.net>" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Jean Kimber Cook passes away
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

All,
If interested, there is a wonderful article written by Jean in the NE MGT
Register publication, The Kimber Centenary Book about life growing up in the
Kimber household.   Its so important for this list serve to share everyone
combined MG knowledge but its equally important to know where we came from.
Tuck


On Nov 12, 2013, at 7:06 PM, W. David Houser <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
wrote:

> Thanks Tuck,
> Sad news about a spirited, spunky lady we were fortunate to have met several
times at T-Register gatherings. Her favorite was..."M.G. stands for M.G.!
> Dave Houser
>
> On Nov 12, 2013, at 4:05 PM, Truxtun Southworth wrote:
>
>> all,
>> I read this today on Facebook,
>>
>> "We were saddened to learn that Jean Kimber Cook, daughter of Cecil
Kimber,
>> passed away this morning.
>> The funeral is to be arranged as a private family only service.
>> It is early days yet to know if there will be a memorial service.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 13 06:16:17 2013
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Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 07:14:04 -0600
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] TD build
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

All engine work/tuning on my TD is on hold until my distributor gets rebuilt. Timing jumps around as much as +/- 8-10 degrees! The shaft 'feels' okay but the advance mechanism is really worn and loose. I'll do a compression test but done on a cold engine is less than ideal. I'll report the numbers here.B 

As I reported earlier, the wings, running boards and aprons are at the painter. Expected turn-around is about 7-10 days. Cost is quite reasonable.B 

I believe it time to pull out the old seats and prepare them for new upholstery. B It will be a refreshing change.B 

-rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 14 13:59:28 2013
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 14:49:33 -0600
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
	"mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>,  Rui Gigante
	<rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mgs] Floor boards
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Friends,

Today I shifted gears, so to speak. I'm sending my TD's distributor
off for repairs and recalibration. Engine tuning is on hold.

Today, I retrieved the new floorboards from storage (boot of my
honkin-big Silver Shadow) and put a coat of urethane on them. The
boards, from Moss, are made from pretty pine plywood. I don't know
anything about the product, other than its appearance, so I have to
assume that it needs waterproofing. Here's how the boards look as I
began painting.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131114_132118.jpg

Its about 50 degrees F here today so paint dries slowly - even
fast-dry urethane! Still, it was fast enough to finish the job, on
both sides.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131114_140830.jpg

The edges have also been sealed.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131114_140841.jpg

I'm going to stop at one coat because I don't really expect this car
to see rain. The metal insert at the driver's feet, is still grimy.
Its one of those parts that I didn't clean upon removal, so I have to
do so now. Tomorrow I will trial-fit the floorboards. The passenger
side is ready to go in. The driver side 'may' be ready too, but I
still need to bleed the brakes. I don't know if that's easier with the
driver-side floorboard out.

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 23:18:06 2013
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References: <CAOc+-dzFUvPuN=STEo-=rOit1Vt-JY--kbpcGZhumV9bTqJ_Vg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 22:16:56 -0800
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, MGS
  <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Floor boards
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Why not use an epoxy coating on the floorboards?

Simon


On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 12:49 PM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com
> wrote:

> Hi Friends,
>
> Today I shifted gears, so to speak. I'm sending my TD's distributor
> off for repairs and recalibration. Engine tuning is on hold.
>
> Today, I retrieved the new floorboards from storage (boot of my
> honkin-big Silver Shadow) and put a coat of urethane on them. The
> boards, from Moss, are made from pretty pine plywood. I don't know
> anything about the product, other than its appearance, so I have to
> assume that it needs waterproofing. Here's how the boards look as I
> began painting.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131114_132118.jpg
>
> Its about 50 degrees F here today so paint dries slowly - even
> fast-dry urethane! Still, it was fast enough to finish the job, on
> both sides.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131114_140830.jpg
>
> The edges have also been sealed.
>
> http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131114_140841.jpg
>
> I'm going to stop at one coat because I don't really expect this car
> to see rain. The metal insert at the driver's feet, is still grimy.
> Its one of those parts that I didn't clean upon removal, so I have to
> do so now. Tomorrow I will trial-fit the floorboards. The passenger
> side is ready to go in. The driver side 'may' be ready too, but I
> still need to bleed the brakes. I don't know if that's easier with the
> driver-side floorboard out.
>
> -rick
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews@gmail.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 16 06:09:41 2013
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2013 07:02:24 -0600
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: simon.d.matthews@gmail.com, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Floor boards
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon asked,

> Why not use an epoxy coating on the floorboards?

Perfectly good question, and implied recommendation.

Perfectly good answer: I'm cheap and already had the urethane left over from refinishing my home's front door. Its that Scottish ancestry thing again... ;-)

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 13:19:35 2013
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2013 14:18:19 -0600
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Chrome
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Friends,

Anyone here have a dependable chrome shop that do my TD's windshield frame and the headlight pods?

-rick
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 18 22:57:50 2013
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 22:56:42 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/24.0 SeaMonkey/2.21
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Clutch problems.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Have a rubber bumper B with clutch problems.  Hydraulics seem fine, 
pedal feels okay, not
great, the slave moves the lever enough that it should work.  But with 
the engine running
when you push in the clutch pedal there is an odd sort of grumbling 
noise from the clutch,
and it is obviously not working.

One possibilty I thought of after I left my friend's shop was involves 
the throwout bearing.
I didn't install this clutch, so I don't know if the retaining clips 
that hold the bearing to
the fork were new, used or properly installed.  Have any of you had one 
of these clips
fail, allowing the bearing to fall out of the yoke?  I'm wondering if 
that is a possibility.

Another possibility is the person who did the job put the disk in 
backwards.  But whatever
the problem, the gearbox has to be pulled.  I might get a bit dirty down 
at Bailey's tomorrow.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 18 23:13:04 2013
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 00:06:39 -0600
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>,MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
References: <528AFD9A.6030107@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch problems.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

If the friction disc is installed backward, the center hub with 
springs will foul on the flywheel bolts, and the clurch will not release.

If a new spigot bearing was installed, and the ID is a smidge too 
small, it will bind on the gearbox input shaft.  In this case the 
clutch does release, but the input shaft keeps spinning same as if 
the clutch didn't release.

In any case. if the slave cyliner pushrod and release arm moves at 
least 1/2", and it still doesn't release, the engine has to come out 
to fix the clutch.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com


At 10:56 PM 11/18/2013 -0700, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>Have a rubber bumper B with clutch problems.  Hydraulics seem fine, 
>pedal feels okay, not great, the slave moves the lever enough that 
>it should work.  But with the engine running when you push in the 
>clutch pedal there is an odd sort of grumbling noise from the 
>clutch, and it is obviously not working.
>
>One possibilty I thought of after I left my friend's shop was 
>involves the throwout bearing.  I didn't install this clutch, so I 
>don't know if the retaining clips that hold the bearing to the fork 
>were new, used or properly installed.  Have any of you had one of 
>these clips fail, allowing the bearing to fall out of the yoke?  I'm 
>wondering if that is a possibility.
>
>Another possibility is the person who did the job put the disk in 
>backwards.  But whatever the problem, the gearbox has to be 
>pulled.  I might get a bit dirty down at Bailey's tomorrow.
>....
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 19 02:16:32 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>, "MG List"
  <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <528AFD9A.6030107@bradakis.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 08:47:34 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch problems.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

You say 'obviously not working', what do you mean?  Not engaging?  Not 
disengaging?  Or something else?

You say the hydraulics seem fine and the pedal feels OK.  Therefore there 
must be back-pressure from the cover-plate diaphragm springs i.e. from the 
slave piston via the slave push-rod, release arm and release bearing to the 
cover-plate, or the pedal would feel ridiculously light with just the pedal 
return spring acting on the pedal.  Without that back-pressure after two or 
three pumps the slave piston and fluid would have been pushed out of the 
slave cylinder, as it's only the cover plate that pushes it back when you 
release the pedal.  Therefore the release bearing must be in it's correct 
position, even if the retaining springs hadn't been fitted.  If they hadn't, 
unless the gearbox was standing on end and the engine lowered down onto it, 
I very much doubt the release bearing would have stayed attached to the 
release arm, and there would be no back-pressure from the cover-plate to the 
pedal.

If the friction plate is put in backwards you have a gap between the 
friction surface and the flywheel which is more than the thickness of the 
friction plate, and the cover plate is held that much further away as well. 
Even if that can be bolted up to the flywheel it will push the diaphragm 
springs, release bearing and everything else further backwards by the same 
amount.  Given the mechanical advantage of the release arm the slave 
push-rod and piston will be pushed into the slave cylinder by several times 
more than the normal travel of the piston, which will bottom the piston in 
its cylinder.  If, with the pedal released, you can push the piston further 
back into the cylinder, and get some free-play in the linkage, then it is 
very unlikely that the friction plate is the wrong way round.

If the spigot bearing is too small then someone would have had huge problems 
getting engine and gearbox back together.

I agree that it has to come out again, but I'd do what whatever is needed to 
make the unusual noise and hope it leaves some witness marks that are 
visible when you dismantle things again.  It could be that the release arm 
and hence the release bearing is not aligned correctly and so the release 
bearing casting is rubbing on the cover-plate boss that the carbon surface 
rubs against.  I assume this is a carbon bearing and not a roller?  If a 
roller that has to be the main suspect for any unusual noises that occur as 
you apply pressure.  If the noise only occurs towards the end of the pedal 
travel that I'd say it is something like release arm or release baring 
rubbing on the cover plate.

This assumes that the correct clutch kit was fitted, and there is nothing 
wrong with it.  My son has recently had a clutch replaced on an M5 and the 
fitter went through three different ones fitted five times before he 
discovered that despite the correct numbers on the boxes there was a defect 
on the whole batch causing then not to disengage as they should.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> Have a rubber bumper B with clutch problems.  Hydraulics seem fine, pedal 
> feels okay, not
> great, the slave moves the lever enough that it should work.  But with the 
> engine running
> when you push in the clutch pedal there is an odd sort of grumbling noise 
> from the clutch,
> and it is obviously not working.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 19 08:24:53 2013
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 10:22:41 -0500
From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.0
To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <528AFD9A.6030107@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch problems.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know if your car uses a roller bearing or carbon bearing, nor 
did you say that this had been operating correctly and that this is now 
a failure.

If this is a recent failure, I would suspect the throwout bearing.  I 
had a carbon-type one fail abruptly, caused grumbling sounds, and then 
the clutch could not be disengaged.  The carbon had disintegrated and 
fell out of the shell.  The steel/iron remainder of the bearing against 
the pressure plate accounted for the noises.

I have had roller-bearing throwout bearings fail on 60's-era Chevelles, 
and they would make a lot of noise before their failure. The carbon-type 
failure was abrupt, a snap, no disengagement, and noise when the pedal 
was depressed.

On 11/19/2013 12:56 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Have a rubber bumper B with clutch problems.  Hydraulics seem fine, 
> pedal feels okay, not
> great, the slave moves the lever enough that it should work.  But with 
> the engine running
> when you push in the clutch pedal there is an odd sort of grumbling 
> noise from the clutch,
> and it is obviously not working.
>
> One possibilty I thought of after I left my friend's shop was involves 
> the throwout bearing.
> I didn't install this clutch, so I don't know if the retaining clips 
> that hold the bearing to
> the fork were new, used or properly installed.  Have any of you had 
> one of these clips
> fail, allowing the bearing to fall out of the yoke?  I'm wondering if 
> that is a possibility.
>
> Another possibility is the person who did the job put the disk in 
> backwards.  But whatever
> the problem, the gearbox has to be pulled.  I might get a bit dirty 
> down at Bailey's tomorrow.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/james.f.juhas@snet.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 19 09:00:23 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <528AFD9A.6030107@bradakis.com> <528B8241.1010507@snet.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 15:43:13 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch problems.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Had that too.  Gradually making more noise but still working, until it 
suddenly failed.  Then the clutch pedal was very light, and a couple of 
pumps pushed the piston out of the cylinder (no back-pressure from the 
clutch to push it back or weight the pedal).

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... The carbon-type failure was abrupt, a snap, no disengagement, and 
> noise when the pedal was depressed.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 19 16:23:47 2013
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 17:22:56 -0600
From: Mark <mark@nashvilletn.org>
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To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Mgs] Intro.  New BGT owner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,  My name is Mark and I am from Nashville, TN.  I just got home 
with a new, to me, BGT in Mineral Blue.  I am not new to the 
autox.team.net list server as I have been on other lists since the late 
90's but I have been lurking here for a few months.  I have had several 
other British cars, Healey 100, TR4A, Midget, TR2, a few other Sprites 
and Midgets and currently share my garage with a Bugeye and the new 
BGT.  I have know the car I bought for 7 or 8 years and know both of the 
recent previous owners.  The car was nicely restored locally and only 
needs a little freshening up and driving.  This is my first MGB though, 
so I will probably have some questions.  I will try not to ask stupid 
questions and I already know what oil to use and how much air to put in 
the tires.  I already have reservations for NAMGBR event in French Lick 
next Spring and hopefully will meet some of you there.  I am a displaced 
Hoosier but have never been to French Lick so we are looking forward to 
being there.  Any of you that are also on the Spridgets list let me know 
you are here too.

Mark
Nashville
58 Bugeye
67 MGB GT  "NEW"
09 Roush P51 Sleeper
And a few other normal cars and trucks.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 19 16:35:02 2013
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From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 18:32:56 -0500
References: <528BF2D0.2090404@nashvilletn.org>
To: Mark <mark@nashvilletn.org>
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Intro.  New BGT owner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Welcome, Mark.
I've got a 67 BGT Special and look forward to any questions you may have about
the car.
Cheers,
Dave Houser
Brooksville, FL


On Nov 19, 2013, at 6:22 PM, Mark wrote:

> Hello,  My name is Mark and I am from Nashville, TN.  I just got home with a
new, to me, BGT in Mineral Blue.  I am not new to the autox.team.net list
server as I have been on other lists since the late 90's but I have been
lurking here for a few months.  I have had several other British cars, Healey
100, TR4A, Midget, TR2, a few other Sprites and Midgets and currently share my
garage with a Bugeye and the new BGT.  I have know the car I bought for 7 or 8
years and know both of the recent previous owners.  The car was nicely
restored locally and only needs a little freshening up and driving.  This is
my first MGB though, so I will probably have some questions.  I will try not
to ask stupid questions and I already know what oil to use and how much air to
put in the tires.  I already have reservations for NAMGBR event in French Lick
next Spring and hopefully will meet some of you there.  I am a displaced
Hoosier but have never been to French Lick so we are looking forward to being
there.  Any of you that are also on the Spridgets list let me know you are
here too.
>
> Mark
> Nashville
> 58 Bugeye
> 67 MGB GT  "NEW"
> 09 Roush P51 Sleeper
> And a few other normal cars and trucks.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 19 17:37:03 2013
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 17:33:53 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch problems.
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Wish I had thought to take my camera.  The retaining clips were fine.  
The clutch disk had
not been installed backwards.  But the throwout bearing - or I should 
say the remains of
the throwout bearing were a sight to see.

mjb.
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Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 01:01:41 GMT
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Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch problems.
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  Can you describe the remains?
  Have you ideas about the cause of its demise?
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch problems.
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 17:33:53 -0700

Wish I had thought to take my camera.  The retaining clips were fine.
The clutch disk had
not been installed backwards.  But the throwout bearing - or I should
say the remains of
the throwout bearing were a sight to see.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 19 22:43:57 2013
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From: James Schulte <schultejim@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 00:40:23 -0500
To: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
	FILETIME=[03D35010:01CEE5B3]
Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Intro.  New BGT owner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark,
Welcome to BGT ownership.
I bought my first GT last November. It is a 74.5 and is getting the engine bay
painted Teal blue like the rest of the car was last month. I am anxious to get
"Skinner" back to continue the restoration. I too will be going to French Lick
with my GT. Looking forward to seeing your GT. I had a C that was Mineral
Blue. I love that color. What color is the interior?
Jim
58 Magnette ZB automatic driver ( for sale ) Steel Blue
70 B Roadster driver Flame Red
74.5 BGT being restored Teal Blue

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 19, 2013, at 6:34 PM, "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
wrote:
>
> Welcome, Mark.
> I've got a 67 BGT Special and look forward to any questions you may have
about
> the car.
> Cheers,
> Dave Houser
> Brooksville, FL
>
>
>> On Nov 19, 2013, at 6:22 PM, Mark wrote:
>>
>> Hello,  My name is Mark and I am from Nashville, TN.  I just got home with
a
> new, to me, BGT in Mineral Blue.  I am not new to the autox.team.net list
> server as I have been on other lists since the late 90's but I have been
> lurking here for a few months.  I have had several other British cars,
Healey
> 100, TR4A, Midget, TR2, a few other Sprites and Midgets and currently share
my
> garage with a Bugeye and the new BGT.  I have know the car I bought for 7 or
8
> years and know both of the recent previous owners.  The car was nicely
> restored locally and only needs a little freshening up and driving.  This
is
> my first MGB though, so I will probably have some questions.  I will try
not
> to ask stupid questions and I already know what oil to use and how much air
to
> put in the tires.  I already have reservations for NAMGBR event in French
Lick
> next Spring and hopefully will meet some of you there.  I am a displaced
> Hoosier but have never been to French Lick so we are looking forward to
being
> there.  Any of you that are also on the Spridgets list let me know you are
> here too.
>>
>> Mark
>> Nashville
>> 58 Bugeye
>> 67 MGB GT  "NEW"
>> 09 Roush P51 Sleeper
>> And a few other normal cars and trucks.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 20 00:20:26 2013
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 01:18:50 -0600
From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 78, Issue 16
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I concur with Barney on the half inch movement, though I could whittle 
it down to 15/32". If youget that much movement and no engagement, I'd 
say pull it. _Any _grinding noise, I'd say pullit. If you have a 
gooseneck probecamera you can get in there to see what's going on 
through the fork boot. If not, figure on an afternoon filled with ale 
and clutches. God knows, new parts never fail, do they? I've seen new 
carbon TO bearings crackbecause the backing steel was improperly machined.


On 11/19/2013 1:00 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 22:56:42 -0700
> From: Mark J Bradakis<mark@bradakis.com>
> To: MG List<mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Clutch problems.
> Message-ID:<528AFD9A.6030107@bradakis.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Have a rubber bumper B with clutch problems.  Hydraulics seem fine,
> pedal feels okay, not
> great, the slave moves the lever enough that it should work.  But with
> the engine running
> when you push in the clutch pedal there is an odd sort of grumbling
> noise from the clutch,
> and it is obviously not working.
>
> One possibilty I thought of after I left my friend's shop was involves
> the throwout bearing.
> I didn't install this clutch, so I don't know if the retaining clips
> that hold the bearing to
> the fork were new, used or properly installed.  Have any of you had one
> of these clips
> fail, allowing the bearing to fall out of the yoke?  I'm wondering if
> that is a possibility.
>
> Another possibility is the person who did the job put the disk in
> backwards.  But whatever
> the problem, the gearbox has to be pulled.  I might get a bit dirty down
> at Bailey's tomorrow.
>
> mjb.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 20 01:40:30 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>, "MG List"
  <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <528AFD9A.6030107@bradakis.com>
  <528C0371.10109@bradakis.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 08:19:20 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Clutch problems.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

How old was the bearing?  For a while they were attaching the carbon ring to 
the casting with a roll-pin, but expansion and contraction caused the carbon 
to break up in short order:
http://www.paulhunt73.webspace.virginmedia.com/mgb-stuff/images/rbearing3.jpg
http://www.paulhunt73.webspace.virginmedia.com/mgb-stuff/images/rbearing4.jpg, 
this had done 8k.  The manufacturers soon went back to bonded, but that left 
a stock of pinned floating around, so it's been a case of buyer beware ever 
since.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ...  But the throwout bearing - or I should say the remains of
> the throwout bearing were a sight to see.
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 08:51:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Mark <mark@nashvilletn.org>, MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Intro.  New BGT owner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, Mark, welcome to the B list!

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Mark <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: MG
List <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 6:22 PM
Subject:
[Mgs] Intro.  New BGT owner
 

Hello,  My name is Mark and I am from
Nashville, TN.  I just got home 
with a new, to me, BGT in Mineral Blue.  I am
not new to the 
autox.team.net list server as I have been on other lists since
the late 
90's but I have been lurking here for a few months.  I have had
several 
other British cars, Healey 100, TR4A, Midget, TR2, a few other
Sprites 
and Midgets and currently share my garage with a Bugeye and the new
BGT.  I have know the car I bought for 7 or 8 years and know both of the
recent previous owners.  The car was nicely restored locally and only 
needs a
little freshening up and driving.  This is my first MGB though, 
so I will
probably have some questions.  I will try not to ask stupid 
questions and I
already know what oil to use and how much air to put in 
the tires.  I already
have reservations for NAMGBR event in French Lick 
next Spring and hopefully
will meet some of you there.  I am a displaced 
Hoosier but have never been to
French Lick so we are looking forward to 
being there.  Any of you that are
also on the Spridgets list let me know 
you are here too.

Mark
Nashville
58
Bugeye
67 MGB GT  "NEW"
09 Roush P51 Sleeper
And a few other normal cars and
trucks.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 11:51:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mgs@autox.team.net
	List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wood eye?!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Assuming it is all original..... ;-)

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA
________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay
<richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List"
<mgs@autox.team.net>; "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>; Rui Gigante
<rui.gigante@gmail.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 11:47 AM
Subject:
[Mgs] Wood eye?!
 

Hey Friends,

Just one picture for now. I found it
interesting that in addition to
the plywood, the factory used just any wood
they had for the seat
base. In this picture you can see that two thirds of the
seat's
support frame is pine, or some other white wood, while one side of the
support is mahogany! Its just a cool quirk of the time. They used what
they
had. Kinda makes one think that the white wood may be cut from
left-over
pallets. Certainly looks like it.
http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131120_100447.jpg

The glossiness is from the wood
hardener, still wet in this flash picture.

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 13:55:22 -0600
From: Rick Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: d_dibiase@yahoo.com, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wood eye?!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Correct. May not be. It has been 60 years...




-------- Original message --------
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com> 
Date: 11/20/2013  1:51 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>,"mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wood eye?! 
 
Assuming it is all original..... ;-)

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA

________________________________
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>; "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>; Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 11:47 AM
Subject: [Mgs] Wood eye?!


Hey Friends,

Just one picture for now. I found it interesting that in addition to
the plywood, the factory used just any wood they had for the seat
base. In this picture you can see that two thirds of the seat's
support frame is pine, or some other white wood, while one side of the
support is mahogany! Its just a cool quirk of the time. They used what
they had. Kinda makes one think that the white wood may be cut from
left-over pallets. Certainly looks like it.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20131120_100447.jpg

The glossiness is from the wood hardener, still wet in this flash picture.

-rick
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 20 18:23:09 2013
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From: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd@comcast.net>
To: "mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 20:20:56 -0500
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Subject: [Mgs] Alternate alternator for 71 MGB?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Lucas joking aside, I have not had good luck with their alternators, and now I
need another. What are the non-Lucas alternatives? I'm more interested in ease
of installation than cost.

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd@comcast.net
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 20 18:38:38 2013
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alternate alternator for 71 MGB?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I replaced my stock alternator with this one (Cs130).  Everything included for
an easy install.  One of the best improvements I made to my 1971 MGB

http://www.mgccars.com/electrical-upgrades-for-you.html


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Donahue <bobmgtd@comcast.net>
To: mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Nov 20, 2013 8:22 pm
Subject: [Mgs] Alternate alternator for 71 MGB?


Lucas joking aside, I have not had good luck with their alternators, and now
I
need another. What are the non-Lucas alternatives? I'm more interested in
ease
of installation than cost.

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd@comcast.net
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 20 19:08:53 2013
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User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/12.36.0.130206
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 17:40:04 -0800
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Alternate alternator for 71 MGB?
Thread-Index: Ac7mWpms1u2LaXVQkk6f2VDIo8Lwgg==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alternate alternator for 71 MGB?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am using a Bosch or Delco/Remy alternator sourced from a Ford Fiesta. I
believe this is a fairly common substitution. Uses the same block bracket
and belt, but I had to fab a new slotted adjuster bracket to get enough
range of adjustment (I suppose a shorter belt would have had the same
effect, but then I'd have had to remember THAT application). I was
converting from a generator, so YMMV.

1980 FORD FIESTA 1.6L 1598cc 98cid L4 2BBL OHV
REMY 13107
$43.99 + $5 core charge (in 2011)




on 11/20/13 5:20 PM, Bob Donahue at bobmgtd@comcast.net wrote:

> Lucas joking aside, I have not had good luck with their alternators, and now I
> need another. What are the non-Lucas alternatives? I'm more interested in ease
> of installation than cost.
> 
> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
> Email - bobmgtd@comcast.net
> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>                71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>                NAMGBR # 7-3336
>                Hoosier MGB Club
>                Olde Octagons of Indiana


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 20:42:51 -0700
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Mgs] MGB in another movie.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

My son texted me tonight to tell me that Forever Strong (2010) has a rubber
bumper MGB in it. I haven't seen it, but it didn't get very good reviews.

Andrew
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 21 01:43:45 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd@comcast.net>, "mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <DF559726C03443FFAEF3F8780DD6FC2D@yourmb2swywknr>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 08:17:50 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alternate alternator for 71 MGB?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

If I'd had problems with alternators (plural) I'd either be looking at where 
I had bought them from (if all the same place) or for some other problem on 
the car.  The only alternator problem I've ever had in 40 years (dynamo 
before that) - and most of those have been Lucas - was a known batch problem 
with the rectifier pack in the 70s.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Lucas joking aside, I have not had good luck with their alternators, and 
> now I
> need another. 
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 21 18:24:07 2013
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From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 17:22:42 -0800
To: MGS List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Diff clunk surprise
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

So I'm working on a thrust washer replacement job, and I thought at this point
I'd just share.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10201793629954647

and check out the brass thrust washer:
https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/q71/s720x720/1462875_1020179
3648995123_598633678_n.jpg


I think... I think I found my clunk. And since... well, since the wear is a
bit worse than I expected, what should I be looking for while I'm in here to
confirm I don't overlook any damage.

--
Aaron
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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 18:35:10 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: MGS List <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <3F707247-B336-4E00-8794-D5F5EFAAA441@panix.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Diff clunk surprise
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep, a bit of wear there.  I'll suggest pulling the pinion and carefully 
checking both
bearings, possibly replacing.  If the thrust washers under the spider 
gears shed a lot
of metal the bearings could be trashed.  The carrier bearings will be a 
lot easier to check.

mjb.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 23 12:29:09 2013
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From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2013 11:27:18 -0800
Cc: MGS List <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <3F707247-B336-4E00-8794-D5F5EFAAA441@panix.com>
	<528EB4CE.3070003@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Diff clunk surprise
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On Nov 21, 2013, at 5:35 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> Yep, a bit of wear there.  I'll suggest pulling the pinion and carefully
checking both
> bearings, possibly replacing.  If the thrust washers under the spider gears
shed a lot
> of metal the bearings could be trashed.  The carrier bearings will be a lot
easier to check.

At the advice of Mark here and a friend that saw the photo on facebook, I've
decided to replace the bearings wholesale.

This simple little project just went beyond my skill level.

I've got the axle removed and will send it off to a local rebuilder next week
(I hope). While I've got it out, I'll replace the rear spring bushings and
order new hydraulic lines from the rear flex line back.

The car looks a little forlorn sitting on jackstands with nothing under it,
but I wouldn't be driving it anyway. The weather is taunting me (30 and bright
blue skies), but the car is only partially insured (no liability) until
spring. So I've got plenty of time.

--
Aaron
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 08:37:04 2013
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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 09:34:54 -0600
From: Mark <mark@nashvilletn.org>
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Subject: [Mgs] Heater Air Control
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Here is my first post regarding my recently acquired 67 BGT.  I was 
sorting out the heater air flow control mechanical switch this weekend 
and ran into a problem.  The spring on the shaft of the air control that 
holds the knob is missing.  Someone in the past had put a set screw in 
the plastic knob that fit poorly in hole in the shaft that held the 
detent.  The switch works but not well.  I see that the usual sources 
don't have the replacement switch and the plastic won't hold the set 
screw for long.  are there any good options to fix the shaft?  Maybe a 
replacement spring and detent?  I also have minimal flow of hot water 
through the heater core and have ordered a new heater control valve.  I 
need to flush the cooling system anyway so I will replace the valve when 
empty the radiator.

Thanks,

Mark
Nashville
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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 09:08:17 -0700
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To: Mark <mark@nashvilletn.org>
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Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Air Control
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

On some years there is not enough travel in the heater control lever/knob
to fully open the heater valve. Some people adjust it so that it will not
close all the way in the winter and then again when it warms up so that it
doesn't open all the way.

Someone posted a long time ago about reworking the value to get more volume
through it. It has pictures and was on a website.

My experience is to be careful with that value. They put it right above the
distributor, and it is known to fail, dumping coolant.  I ended up using a
bit of an aluminum can to block mine of when it broke and soaked my
distributor one year.
On Nov 25, 2013 8:36 AM, "Mark" <mark@nashvilletn.org> wrote:

> Here is my first post regarding my recently acquired 67 BGT.  I was
> sorting out the heater air flow control mechanical switch this weekend and
> ran into a problem.  The spring on the shaft of the air control that holds
> the knob is missing.  Someone in the past had put a set screw in the
> plastic knob that fit poorly in hole in the shaft that held the detent.
>  The switch works but not well.  I see that the usual sources don't have
> the replacement switch and the plastic won't hold the set screw for long.
>  are there any good options to fix the shaft?  Maybe a replacement spring
> and detent?  I also have minimal flow of hot water through the heater core
> and have ordered a new heater control valve.  I need to flush the cooling
> system anyway so I will replace the valve when empty the radiator.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
> Nashville
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 09:59:44 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Mark" <mark@nashvilletn.org>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <52936E1E.3020903@nashvilletn.org>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 16:57:54 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Air Control
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Anything in the heater circuit can cause reduced flow, including the core 
itself and the metal pipe that carries the return flow back to the bottom 
hose.  Unfortunately replacement valves are pretty poor, The original lasted 
30 years, the replacement less than 10.  If the detent is missing but the 
hole is clear I'd tap the hole and uses a grub-screw, even if you could get 
the correct control (and there are many with different configurations) they 
are expensive.  Either that or get a cheap second hand one and if the wrong 
type perhaps swap the spring and pip over.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> ... The spring on the shaft of the air control that holds the knob is 
> missing. 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 10:40:09 2013
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From: Mike E <redscirocco@hotmail.com>
To: Mark <mark@nashvilletn.org>, MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 12:38:31 -0500
References: <52936E1E.3020903@nashvilletn.org>
	FILETIME=[28DEA8E0:01CEEA05]
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Air Control
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark,
I may have an air control mechanism from a late '70s pillow dash roadster that
I could send you.  Maybe someone else here would be kind enough to verify that
it will fit your '67 BGT?
Cheers,
-Mike Eldred
Wilmington, VT

> Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 09:34:54 -0600
> From: mark@nashvilletn.org
> To: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Heater Air Control
>
> Here is my first post regarding my recently acquired 67 BGT.  I was
> sorting out the heater air flow control mechanical switch this weekend
> and ran into a problem.  The spring on the shaft of the air control that
> holds the knob is missing.  Someone in the past had put a set screw in
> the plastic knob that fit poorly in hole in the shaft that held the
> detent.  The switch works but not well.  I see that the usual sources
> don't have the replacement switch and the plastic won't hold the set
> screw for long.  are there any good options to fix the shaft?  Maybe a
> replacement spring and detent?  I also have minimal flow of hot water
> through the heater core and have ordered a new heater control valve.  I
> need to flush the cooling system anyway so I will replace the valve when
> empty the radiator.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
> Nashville
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/redscirocco@hotmail.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 20:33:41 2013
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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 21:31:43 -0600
From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
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Mark,

If I recall *most* of the springs and pips at the end of the shaft are 
interchangeable between the marques, but don't hold me to that. It may 
boil down to the length of the spring. If you can find a used whole 
switch you can transfer the parts. I'd recommend against tapping it and 
going to a grub screw. That would be silly.

As far as the valve goes, I found a trick at the Chicagoland MG Club 
website about taking a new valve apart and adding a washer under a 
grommet and I did it and it helped considerably in a former car and 
never leaked. I don't remember the exact gag right now, but it does 
increase waterflow through the valve and did not leak when I was done. 
It does involve voiding the warranty.

At the start of winter and spring I change the setting on the heater 
switch from one side to the other and go to the valve and physically 
take it to the end of its travel and wire it into place. It ain't a 
Honda. Still doesn't do me any good. I still freeze my butt off on the 
way home from work all winter. In the summer I put the top down or top 
up and rear window zipped down. You can put your top down with a 
sawzall,  but putting it back up might be a job.

Glenn

On 11/25/2013 1:00 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 09:34:54 -0600
> From: Mark<mark@nashvilletn.org>
> To: MG List<mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Heater Air Control
> Message-ID:<52936E1E.3020903@nashvilletn.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Here is my first post regarding my recently acquired 67 BGT.  I was
> sorting out the heater air flow control mechanical switch this weekend
> and ran into a problem.  The spring on the shaft of the air control that
> holds the knob is missing.  Someone in the past had put a set screw in
> the plastic knob that fit poorly in hole in the shaft that held the
> detent.  The switch works but not well.  I see that the usual sources
> don't have the replacement switch and the plastic won't hold the set
> screw for long.  are there any good options to fix the shaft?  Maybe a
> replacement spring and detent?  I also have minimal flow of hot water
> through the heater core and have ordered a new heater control valve.  I
> need to flush the cooling system anyway so I will replace the valve when
> empty the radiator.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
> Nashville
_______________________________________________

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <52936E1E.3020903@nashvilletn.org>
	<CAKr3Jn05H5HUOG9HfjbWbQSeL3K7tbjCdWzJO5UP74P5iWoyZQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 08:19:23 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Air Control
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've never had a problem with the heater when everything is working as it 
should, I get 63C/145F out of mine at an ambient of 8C/46F and that's enough 
to burn our feet.  You can't expect what is basically a 60-year old design 
to compete with modern cars.  There are no less then 10 areas in the system 
that can cause low output and all need checking.  Because of the lost motion 
in the linkage and the fact that the arc of operation of the control is much 
the same as the arc of operation of the valve, it is true that if you adjust 
the linkage to fully close the valve it doesn't move the lever its full 
distance when open.  However that is a long way from being restrictive as it 
should still lift the main part of the seal off its seat.  Before that it is 
controlling a needle valve, which gives fine control at smaller openings, 
and this is what you need to remember if contemplating a different design of 
valve, which may not have that fine control.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> On some years there is not enough travel in the heater control lever/knob
> to fully open the heater valve. 
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 26 02:10:52 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Mike E" <redscirocco@hotmail.com>, "Mark" <mark@nashvilletn.org>,
	"MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <52936E1E.3020903@nashvilletn.org>
	<BLU177-W44BF44D22FF3525066A0E1B7ED0@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 08:43:08 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Heater Air Control
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

If Mark's is a Mk1 with a tin dash then probably not directly as if nothing 
else the Parts Catalogue quotes different part numbers, but comparing the 
item numbers stamped onto the control would confirm, these are of the form 
'3/nnn.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I may have an air control mechanism from a late '70s pillow dash roadster 
> that
> I could send you.  Maybe someone else here would be kind enough to verify 
> that
> it will fit your '67 BGT?
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 18:10:20 -0700
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.0
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Failed ignition lock in '70 B.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The ignition lock in my '70 B has failed.  It wasn't turning nicely for 
quite some time.  I had to hold it all the way on and wiggle it to get 
it to start for the past few months.  Finally, the wiggling trick 
wouldn't work anymore.  I took it apart today expecting to have to 
replace the switch.  After doing so with a spare I had I found it would 
still not work.

I turned the switch manually and it started up with no problem.  I put 
the spare switch in the spare lock assembly I have and it started up 
without any problem.   So, I pulled off my ignition lock and put the 
spare lock and switch in.  Everything is working fine now.  The shaft 
that comes though the lock must not be in the right place any longer.

However, I do not want to change the key in the car.  I don't know that 
the ignition key is the original, but I also don't have any reason to 
believe it is not.  (I don't know how may owners had it before me.)

It is feasible to have the ignition lock rebuilt?  Are the rebuild parts 
available?  (I am not inclined to do this one myself.)

Thanks!
--
Andrew
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 21:13:49 -0600
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
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	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <52993AFC.5040702@byu.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Failed ignition lock in '70 B.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does your key open the trunk & doors?

CR
On 11/29/2013 7:10 PM, Andrew Lundgren wrote:
> The ignition lock in my '70 B has failed.  It wasn't turning nicely 
> for quite some time.  I had to hold it all the way on and wiggle it to 
> get it to start for the past few months.  Finally, the wiggling trick 
> wouldn't work anymore.  I took it apart today expecting to have to 
> replace the switch.  After doing so with a spare I had I found it 
> would still not work.
>
> I turned the switch manually and it started up with no problem.  I put 
> the spare switch in the spare lock assembly I have and it started up 
> without any problem.   So, I pulled off my ignition lock and put the 
> spare lock and switch in.  Everything is working fine now.  The shaft 
> that comes though the lock must not be in the right place any longer.
>
> However, I do not want to change the key in the car.  I don't know 
> that the ignition key is the original, but I also don't have any 
> reason to believe it is not.  (I don't know how may owners had it 
> before me.)
>
> It is feasible to have the ignition lock rebuilt?  Are the rebuild 
> parts available?  (I am not inclined to do this one myself.)
>
> Thanks!
> -- 
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
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Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:17:15 -0700
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To: ccrobins@ktc.com
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Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Failed ignition lock in '70 B.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

No, just the ignition.

It may match the build sheet, but I don't know.
On Nov 29, 2013 8:14 PM, "Charley & Peggy Robinson" <ccrobins@ktc.com>
wrote:

> Does your key open the trunk & doors?
>
> CR
> On 11/29/2013 7:10 PM, Andrew Lundgren wrote:
>
>> The ignition lock in my '70 B has failed.  It wasn't turning nicely for
>> quite some time.  I had to hold it all the way on and wiggle it to get it
>> to start for the past few months.  Finally, the wiggling trick wouldn't
>> work anymore.  I took it apart today expecting to have to replace the
>> switch.  After doing so with a spare I had I found it would still not work.
>>
>> I turned the switch manually and it started up with no problem.  I put
>> the spare switch in the spare lock assembly I have and it started up
>> without any problem.   So, I pulled off my ignition lock and put the spare
>> lock and switch in.  Everything is working fine now.  The shaft that comes
>> though the lock must not be in the right place any longer.
>>
>> However, I do not want to change the key in the car.  I don't know that
>> the ignition key is the original, but I also don't have any reason to
>> believe it is not.  (I don't know how may owners had it before me.)
>>
>> It is feasible to have the ignition lock rebuilt?  Are the rebuild parts
>> available?  (I am not inclined to do this one myself.)
>>
>> Thanks!
>> --
>> Andrew
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 21:58:24 -0600
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <ccrobins@ktc.com>
Organization: Computer Helpers
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <52993AFC.5040702@byu.net> <529957ED.4090908@ktc.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Failed ignition lock in '70 B.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

If it doesn't open 'em all it's prolly not the original.

CR
On 11/29/2013 9:13 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:
> Does your key open the trunk & doors?
>
> CR
> On 11/29/2013 7:10 PM, Andrew Lundgren wrote:
>> The ignition lock in my '70 B has failed. It wasn't turning nicely 
>> for quite some time.  I had to hold it all the way on and wiggle it 
>> to get it to start for the past few months.  Finally, the wiggling 
>> trick wouldn't work anymore.  I took it apart today expecting to have 
>> to replace the switch. After doing so with a spare I had I found it 
>> would still not work.
>>
>> I turned the switch manually and it started up with no problem. I put 
>> the spare switch in the spare lock assembly I have and it started up 
>> without any problem.   So, I pulled off my ignition lock and put the 
>> spare lock and switch in.  Everything is working fine now.  The shaft 
>> that comes though the lock must not be in the right place any longer.
>>
>> However, I do not want to change the key in the car.  I don't know 
>> that the ignition key is the original, but I also don't have any 
>> reason to believe it is not.  (I don't know how may owners had it 
>> before me.)
>>
>> It is feasible to have the ignition lock rebuilt?  Are the rebuild 
>> parts available?  (I am not inclined to do this one myself.)
>>
>> Thanks!
>> -- 
>> Andrew
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
_______________________________________________

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References: <52993AFC.5040702@byu.net> <529957ED.4090908@ktc.com>
	<52996260.7040206@ktc.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 00:31:11 -0700
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To: ccrobins@ktc.com
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Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Failed ignition lock in '70 B.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not sure that is right. The keys on the sets of '70 locks that I have
are so different they won't even go in the key holes.

My '78 has three different keys, all original from the build sheet, and
they are very different as well.
 If it doesn't open 'em all it's prolly not the original.

CR
On 11/29/2013 9:13 PM, Charley & Peggy Robinson wrote:

> Does your key open the trunk & doors?
>
> CR
> On 11/29/2013 7:10 PM, Andrew Lundgren wrote:
>
>> The ignition lock in my '70 B has failed. It wasn't turning nicely for
>> quite some time.  I had to hold it all the way on and wiggle it to get it
>> to start for the past few months.  Finally, the wiggling trick wouldn't
>> work anymore.  I took it apart today expecting to have to replace the
>> switch. After doing so with a spare I had I found it would still not work.
>>
>> I turned the switch manually and it started up with no problem. I put the
>> spare switch in the spare lock assembly I have and it started up without
>> any problem.   So, I pulled off my ignition lock and put the spare lock and
>> switch in.  Everything is working fine now.  The shaft that comes though
>> the lock must not be in the right place any longer.
>>
>> However, I do not want to change the key in the car.  I don't know that
>> the ignition key is the original, but I also don't have any reason to
>> believe it is not.  (I don't know how may owners had it before me.)
>>
>> It is feasible to have the ignition lock rebuilt?  Are the rebuild parts
>> available?  (I am not inclined to do this one myself.)
>>
>> Thanks!
>> --
>> Andrew
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 30 02:21:50 2013
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Andrew Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <52993AFC.5040702@byu.net> <529957ED.4090908@ktc.com>
	<52996260.7040206@ktc.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 09:19:22 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Failed ignition lock in '70 B.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Surely the key that operated steering locks never opened any other locks, 
it's several times bigger for a start and a completely different design.

But I'm confused. You say:

"Everything is working fine now.  The shaft that comes though the lock must 
not be in the right place any longer."

The first statement says you have fixed it, the second implies there is 
still a problem.

If the key isn't turning it's the key/lock combination that is almost 
certainly the problem, rarely the switch.  If that turns OK when removed 
from the lock, but the lock is still not turning, then definitely so.  In 
which case unless you know the key number and can get a replacement you have 
very little option but to replace the lock and the key.  Even with a new key 
if it is the lock that is worn a new key may not help.  Another option is 
possibly to dismantle the lock and disable the tumblers, if you don't mind 
being anything being able to turn it.  But I can only imagine that being 
considered if originality is your overriding concern.  But having gone that 
far - if it's possible - then a locksmith may well be able to replace the 
tumblers so suit your existing key.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> If it doesn't open 'em all it's prolly not the original.
>
>> On 11/29/2013 7:10 PM, Andrew Lundgren wrote:
>>> The ignition lock in my '70 B has failed. It wasn't turning nicely for 
>>> quite some time.... 
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	<52996260.7040206@ktc.com> <C226BC0E84AA469FA8525B0C8A865561@paul>
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 11:04:59 -0700
From: Andrew Lundgren <lundgren@byu.net>
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
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Cc: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Failed ignition lock in '70 B.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry for the confusion Paul.

I changed the ignition lock with a spare I acquired a few years ago. The
car starts with out any problem now.

However,  in changing the lock, I have also changed the key. That is
something I didn't want to do. So I was looking for advice on repairing
what I think is the original lock.

Andrew
On Nov 30, 2013 2:19 AM, "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com> wrote:

> Surely the key that operated steering locks never opened any other locks,
> it's several times bigger for a start and a completely different design.
>
> But I'm confused. You say:
>
> "Everything is working fine now.  The shaft that comes though the lock
> must not be in the right place any longer."
>
> The first statement says you have fixed it, the second implies there is
> still a problem.
>
> If the key isn't turning it's the key/lock combination that is almost
> certainly the problem, rarely the switch.  If that turns OK when removed
> from the lock, but the lock is still not turning, then definitely so.  In
> which case unless you know the key number and can get a replacement you
> have very little option but to replace the lock and the key.  Even with a
> new key if it is the lock that is worn a new key may not help.  Another
> option is possibly to dismantle the lock and disable the tumblers, if you
> don't mind being anything being able to turn it.  But I can only imagine
> that being considered if originality is your overriding concern.  But
> having gone that far - if it's possible - then a locksmith may well be able
> to replace the tumblers so suit your existing key.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> If it doesn't open 'em all it's prolly not the original.
>>
>>  On 11/29/2013 7:10 PM, Andrew Lundgren wrote:
>>>
>>>> The ignition lock in my '70 B has failed. It wasn't turning nicely for
>>>> quite some time....
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