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From: Rod Williams <PRNDL@sonic.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2014 08:42:09 -0700
To: Mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] MacGregor British Car Parts
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Anyone know if MacGregor British Car Parts in Ontario Canada is still in
business. I talked to Martin earlier this summer and bought some parts from
him but recent email has gone unanswered and the toll-free US number is
disconnected and his answering machine picks up but the memory is full.  Any
one know whats up?
--
Rod Williams
Petaluma, California
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 09:47:48 2014
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2014 15:48:17 GMT
To: PRNDL@sonic.net
Cc: Mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MacGregor British Car Parts
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

  He was seen and talked to at Stowe by one of our club members.  Club member
and I still await some MGB rubber ordered in 2010 or 2012, though. Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Rod Williams <PRNDL@sonic.net>
To: Mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] MacGregor British Car Parts
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2014 08:42:09 -0700

Anyone know if MacGregor British Car Parts in Ontario Canada is still in
business. I talked to Martin earlier this summer and bought some parts from
him but recent email has gone unanswered and the toll-free US number is
disconnected and his answering machine picks up but the memory is full.
Any
one know whats up?
--
Rod Williams
Petaluma, California
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 14:48:54 2014
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Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2014 13:49:48 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: MGB Journal
Thread-Index: Ac/duT0Nf1LuZ2Cd006rPRrjo/ztrQ==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Journal
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Cool.

You probably didn't watch the A's game last night. It was epic and
heartbreaking. I was sure the Royals manager had thrown the game away when
he pulled his starter -- it certainly looked that way for a couple innings.
Then the KC running game went wild. I've never seen anything like it -- it
was like Rickey Henderson was on the bases every inning.

The horribly ironic part was the ending. The A's called a pitch out and
actually had the runner dead to rights (for the first and only time), but
the catcher took his eye off the ball and it squirted out of his mitt. The
runner immediately scored from second on a base hit without a play.

I don't know how that running game will pan out in a longer series -- they
seem to have stuffed the roster with speedsters for this one game.  Next
round they will need some pinch hitters and pitchers on the roster,
presumably.



on 9/30/14 11:40 PM, Ron Talbot at rtalbot1@mac.com wrote:

> Read the hole thing and looked at most of the photos.  It is available to all,
> no sign up required.  You should send this to your brothers as well.   Lot of
> arcane stuff here.  Your spare time is well taken care of for the next decade
> or so.  ;-)
> 
> Cheers,
> Ron
> 
> Sent from my tricorder.
> 
>> On Sep 30, 2014, at 7:08 PM, Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net> wrote:
>> 
>> I started a journal about my new MGB project, on the MGB Experience site, if
>> anyone is interested in tracking my progress.
>> 
>> http://www.mgexp.com/journal/mvheim/11754
>> 
>> Not a lot of real "progress" so far, just documentation. But the last post
>> reveals some interesting details.
>> 
>> Plus: photos!
>> 
>> I'm not sure if you have to sign up in order to view member journals. Maybe
>> someone could try and let me know.
>> 
>> Cheerio
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>> And now GHN3U137949G
>> (not going anywhere anytime soon)
>> 
>> 
> 

-- 
Max Heim
mvheim@sonic.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 17:41:25 2014
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Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2014 16:43:31 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] MGB Journal
Thread-Index: Ac/duT0Nf1LuZ2Cd006rPRrjo/ztrQAGESWy
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Journal
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Sorry, not meant for the list. Excuse the error.


on 10/1/14 1:49 PM, Max Heim at mvheim@sonic.net wrote:

> Cool.
> 
> You probably didn't watch the A's game last night. It was epic and
> heartbreaking. I was sure the Royals manager had thrown the game away when
> he pulled his starter -- it certainly looked that way for a couple innings.
> Then the KC running game went wild. I've never seen anything like it -- it
> was like Rickey Henderson was on the bases every inning.
> 
> The horribly ironic part was the ending. The A's called a pitch out and
> actually had the runner dead to rights (for the first and only time), but
> the catcher took his eye off the ball and it squirted out of his mitt. The
> runner immediately scored from second on a base hit without a play.
> 
> I don't know how that running game will pan out in a longer series -- they
> seem to have stuffed the roster with speedsters for this one game.  Next
> round they will need some pinch hitters and pitchers on the roster,
> presumably.
> 
> 
> 
> on 9/30/14 11:40 PM, Ron Talbot at rtalbot1@mac.com wrote:
> 
>> Read the hole thing and looked at most of the photos.  It is available to
>> all,
>> no sign up required.  You should send this to your brothers as well.   Lot of
>> arcane stuff here.  Your spare time is well taken care of for the next decade
>> or so.  ;-)
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Ron
>> 
>> Sent from my tricorder.
>> 
>>> On Sep 30, 2014, at 7:08 PM, Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I started a journal about my new MGB project, on the MGB Experience site, if
>>> anyone is interested in tracking my progress.
>>> 
>>> http://www.mgexp.com/journal/mvheim/11754
>>> 
>>> Not a lot of real "progress" so far, just documentation. But the last post
>>> reveals some interesting details.
>>> 
>>> Plus: photos!
>>> 
>>> I'm not sure if you have to sign up in order to view member journals. Maybe
>>> someone could try and let me know.
>>> 
>>> Cheerio
>>> 
>>> --
>>> 
>>> Max Heim
>>> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
>>> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
>>> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>>> And now GHN3U137949G
>>> (not going anywhere anytime soon)
>>> 
>>> 
>> 

-- 
Max Heim
mvheim@sonic.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 18:10:06 2014
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To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Journal
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Max Heim wrote:
> Sorry, not meant for the list. Excuse the error.

This is an example of the thinking behind one of the list settings. Many lists when you simply "reply"
will send the message to the list.  The Team.Net lists are set up so that a simple reply sends the reply
only to the original poster. In my opinion, it is easier to resend a message to the whole list than it
is to "unsend" a message that went to the whole list but what NOT supposed to. The message Max sent was
not really a problem, just a handy example.

On another note I have not made much progress lately on filling in the missing months from the archive.
I thought I had a couple of simple shell commands to make it easy, but no such luck, they are not doing
what I hoped they would.  A bit frustrating. And on a side note, the community radio station that I have
playing all day in my office is having their fall fund drive. NINE days of constant chatter begging for
donations. Aren't you glad that the Team.Net fund drive consists of 1 single email message per year, and
not over a week of hounding?  Well, there is the donate link in every message, but that's different.

Or at least I hope so.

mjb.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  2 01:32:17 2014
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>, "MG List"
  <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <D051DFB3.54A0D%mvheim@sonic.net> <542C9891.3020509@bradakis.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2014 08:31:09 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Journal
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Regardless of the Reply option used, why did I get his response and not what 
he was replying to?  I've noticed this a few times lately.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Max Heim wrote:
>> Sorry, not meant for the list. Excuse the error.
>
> This is an example of the thinking behind one of the list settings. Many 
> lists when you simply "reply"
> will send the message to the list.  The Team.Net lists are set up so that 
> a simple reply sends the reply
> only to the original poster. 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  2 08:43:35 2014
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From: Aaron Whiteman <awhitema@panix.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2014 07:46:29 -0700
To: "<mgs@autox.team.net>" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] October driving
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My current facebook status laments that October is the month that I put the MG
away. But not today. I drove to work today, something I don't normally do.

Ended up following what might be the only other MG in Pullman at the moment.
Two MGs in a line, zooming along.

David, nice looking car, hope you don't get too much grief about the purple.
but I would not drive it around the time of the Apple Cup!
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  2 11:06:36 2014
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Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2014 09:51:24 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] MGB Journal
Thread-Index: Ac/eYRmd4Ez+dS1AXUeQ0IpLLebFTQ==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB Journal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This was an odd case. I had cc'ed a third party on my original post. He
replied to "all", but of course his response didn't reach the list, as he is
not subscribed. And when I got the reply from him, I naturally replied
assuming it would go to him, but it seems to have gone to the list and NOT
to him. Which is a little puzzling.

I have a mailing list rule set up in my mail app, that may have intervened
here.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
And now GHN3U137949G
(not going anywhere anytime soon)


on 10/2/14 12:31 AM, PaulHunt73 at paulhunt73@virginmedia.com wrote:

> Regardless of the Reply option used, why did I get his response and not what
> he was replying to?  I've noticed this a few times lately.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> Max Heim wrote:
>>> Sorry, not meant for the list. Excuse the error.
>> 
>> This is an example of the thinking behind one of the list settings. Many
>> lists when you simply "reply"
>> will send the message to the list.  The Team.Net lists are set up so that
>> a simple reply sends the reply
>> only to the original poster.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  6 17:09:46 2014
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Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2014 15:58:11 -0700
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mg-t@autox.team.net"
 <mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Back at it...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Glad to see you back at work, Rick, and not jaunting around the country judging concours....! ;-)

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA



________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>; "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, October 3, 2014 3:34 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Back at it...
 

Hi Friends,

My Volvo 1800ES project is almost complete. Well, its complete enough to
allow me to drive the car around in the driveway (and out of the way of MG
TD progress).

http://aubard.us/1800ES/20140726_102931.jpg

Today, I mounted the bonnet on the '53 TD. I first had to tweak the
radiator position a tiny bit but now both sides fit nicely. Here are a
couple of looks, work in progress.

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20141003_135648e.jpg

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20141003_135642e.jpg

Its nice to be back working on old British iron. Besides, this is how the
dining room looks! Let's call it 'incentive'.

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20140901_134938.jpg

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct  7 15:09:04 2014
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From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'Richard Lindsay'" <richardolindsay@gmail.com>,
 <mg-t@autox.team.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Back at it...
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Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good to see you're making progress Rick!

I like the last pic very much. Did the same with the 1973 Puch moped after
it came back in parts from the paint shop some 5 years ago...

Cheers
Hans
71 BGT



-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay
Verzonden: vrijdag 3 oktober 2014 21:34
Aan: mg-t@autox.team.net; mgs@autox.team.net List
Onderwerp: [Mgs] Back at it...

Hi Friends,

My Volvo 1800ES project is almost complete. Well, its complete enough to
allow me to drive the car around in the driveway (and out of the way of MG
TD progress).

http://aubard.us/1800ES/20140726_102931.jpg

Today, I mounted the bonnet on the '53 TD. I first had to tweak the radiator
position a tiny bit but now both sides fit nicely. Here are a couple of
looks, work in progress.

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20141003_135648e.jpg

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20141003_135642e.jpg

Its nice to be back working on old British iron. Besides, this is how the
dining room looks! Let's call it 'incentive'.

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20140901_134938.jpg

-rick
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven@planet.nl


---
Dit e-mailbericht bevat geen virussen en malware omdat avast! Antivirus-bescherming actief is.
http://www.avast.com
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  8 19:18:26 2014
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To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>,  "mg-t@autox.team.net"
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Don't you just love reassembly?!
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  Getin' too close to the bone, Rick.  The overall pic was nice.

CR
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2014 21:43:29 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] awesome customer service
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

A few days ago I called Joe Curto to purchase a few grommets for the carbs in
my MGA. Joe quoted me a price and then says, "I will put them in an envelope
with an invoice. You send me a check when they arrive."

Amazing!

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 01:57:58 GMT
To: ejrussell@mebtel.net
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] awesome customer service
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

 You are not the first to complement him on his prompt, expeditious service.
In our club, he is thought of very highly for this, and for his good work
too.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] awesome customer service
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2014 21:43:29 -0400

A few days ago I called Joe Curto to purchase a few grommets for the carbs in
my MGA. Joe quoted me a price and then says, "I will put them in an envelope
with an invoice. You send me a check when they arrive."

Amazing!

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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References: <CAOc+-dwPoeEh_8cyc1ErrhrpuPdQkbdaWnSXMtGYrCVnhNyPRg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 04:49:55 -0700
From: Dan DiBiase <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
To: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>, "mg-t@autox.team.net"
 <mg-t@autox.team.net>, "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Don't you just love reassembly?!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I hope you have all of the screw heads aligned the same way, Rick, just like when it left the factory...! ;-)

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA



________________________________
 From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
To: "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>; "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2014 4:16 PM
Subject: [Mgs] Don't you just love reassembly?!
 

I do!

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20141008_132952.jpg

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20141008_145501e.jpg

http://aubard.us/MGTD/20141008_145433e.jpg

Yes, the rubber bumpers were originally attached with rivets, but I like
stainless steel.

-rick
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  9 12:41:38 2014
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From: "W. David Houser" <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 14:36:51 -0400
References: <6F67BA44D6AE4AB997D938C4A6078A98@EricJRussellPC>
To: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] awesome customer service
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That is how Joe works. Quite a friend for over 35 years...
Cheers
Dave Houser
Brooksville, FL


On Oct 8, 2014, at 9:43 PM, Eric J Russell wrote:

> A few days ago I called Joe Curto to purchase a few grommets for the carbs
in
> my MGA. Joe quoted me a price and then says, "I will put them in an
envelope
> with an invoice. You send me a check when they arrive."
>
> Amazing!
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  9 18:44:21 2014
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Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2014 20:44:29 -0400
From: John Di Fede <difejo@optonline.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] : awesome customer service
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Years ago I phoned Joe Curto to inquire regarding  what he would charge to
re-bush the throttle shafts on the HIF carbs from my 1973 MGB.   He sold me
the bushings and new shafts and then proceeded to instruct me on how to
replace the bushings myself.  On HIF carbs the old bushings are easily
driven out using an inexpensive piece of steel bar readily found in a
hardware store.

 

Needless to say I became a customer for life.    

 

John DiFede

1973 MGB



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This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 10 11:00:04 2014
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2014 10:01:22 -0700
From: "sdesalvo@frontiernet.net" <sdesalvo@frontiernet.net>
To: mg list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] brake pressure failure switch '72 MGB
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I cannot stop brake fluid (silicone) from leaking out the top of the pressure failure switch. The fluid leaks into the cavity where the electrical pigtail connects to the wiring harness. I replaced the switch and it still leaks. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Sam
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From: Bert Palte <palte@gmx.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2014 22:25:54 +0200
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake pressure failure switch '72 MGB
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Perhaps wrong thread, M10 x 1 instead of 7/16"?
BTDT
Bert

Sent from my iPhone

> On 10 okt. 2014, at 19:01, "sdesalvo@frontiernet.net"
<sdesalvo@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
> I cannot stop brake fluid (silicone) from leaking out the top of the
pressure failure switch. The fluid leaks into the cavity where the electrical
pigtail connects to the wiring harness. I replaced the switch and it still
leaks. Any help would be appreciated.
> Thanks in advance,
> Sam
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 10 16:25:32 2014
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2014 15:28:16 -0700
From: David Ambrose <stargazer1@cox.net>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <1V3H1p02j0NyJgq01V3Kic>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] brake pressure failure switch '72 MGB
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

You should never see brake fluid under that switch. Beneath the switch 
is a piston (Moss calls it a shuttle). There are o-rings on the piston 
which should seal it against brake fluid. You probably need to pull the 
whole thing and replace the o-rings, and the piston itself if it's 
corroded. You may need to hone the cylinder too.

Moss sells a couple of repair kits for that unit. I have the o-rings and 
they work fine. I don't know whether the umbrella seals are worth the 
extra money, but if the o-rings depend on a swelling agent to seal, the 
umbrella seals would make sense.

Cheers,
Dave Ambrose


On 10/10/2014 10:01 AM, sdesalvo@frontiernet.net wrote:
> I cannot stop brake fluid (silicone) from leaking out the top of the pressure failure switch. The fluid leaks into the cavity where the electrical pigtail connects to the wiring harness. I replaced the switch and it still leaks. Any help would be appreciated.
> Thanks in advance,
> Sam
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/stargazer1@cox.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 12 18:37:52 2014
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Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2014 19:34:37 -0500
From: Glenn Schnittke <g.schnittke@comcast.net>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 89, Issue 8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Inside the body of the five-way union that the switch threads into is a 
double ended piston. It is shaped like an hourglassand has an o-ring 
seal at either end. Each end of the body feeds either the front or the 
rear brakes. If there is a pressure failure in either the front or rear, 
that piston is going to move one way or the otherand set off the switch. 
If everything is working fine there will be equal pressure on both ends 
of the piston. If you have fluid at the center of the switch, the first 
step is to replace the o-rings, but check the walls of the body. The 
piston itself can wear, but the body walls should be as smooth as the 
walls of the master cylinder andthe slaves. The o-rings arenot special 
and you should be able to replace them from your local hardware storeif 
not an auto parts shop. Think plumbing and water valves. Your worst case 
scenario is replacing the union body.

You didn't mention what year car you have. I assume from your 
description that it's a late chrome bumper car.



On 10/10/2014 1:00 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2014 10:01:22 -0700
> From:"sdesalvo@frontiernet.net"  <sdesalvo@frontiernet.net>
> To: mg list<mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] brake pressure failure switch '72 MGB
> Message-ID:
> 	<1412960482.11829.YahooMailNeo@web161803.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I cannot stop brake fluid (silicone) from leaking out the top of the pressure failure switch. The fluid leaks into the cavity where the electrical pigtail connects to the wiring harness. I replaced the switch and it still leaks. Any help would be appreciated.
> Thanks in advance,
> Sam
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 13:43:22 2014
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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 15:46:29 -0400
From: John Di Fede <difejo@optonline.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Mgs] :  brake pressure failure switch '72 MGB
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Sam,

 

I had this happen on my 1973 MGB.   You said you replaced the switch.  Was
the switch new? 

 

I fixed mine by rebuilding the switch with new rubber o rings.   For what it
is worth,  I also use silicone brake fluid.   

 

John Di Fede

 

 

 

 

"Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right".   Henry
Ford 

 



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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 13:59:43 2014
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From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "'John Di Fede'" <difejo@optonline.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <008101cfe71e$620f51c0$262df540$@optonline.net>
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] :  brake pressure failure switch '72 MGB
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I have had a similar issue and replaced the o-rings with success as well.
My problem is where can I obtain a new switch assembly.
For over 10 years the local suppliers tell me, that the switch is NLA.

Hope I can find one ever...

Cheers,
Hans
71 BGT

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens John Di Fede
Verzonden: maandag 13 oktober 2014 21:46
Aan: mgs@autox.team.net
Onderwerp: [Mgs] : brake pressure failure switch '72 MGB

Sam,

 

I had this happen on my 1973 MGB.   You said you replaced the switch.  Was
the switch new? 

 

I fixed mine by rebuilding the switch with new rubber o rings.   For what it
is worth,  I also use silicone brake fluid.   

 

John Di Fede

 

 

 

 

"Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right".   Henry
Ford 

 



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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 20 15:45:36 2014
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2014 14:41:56 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Tires... Bah
Thread-Index: Ac/srqtVjuVhCe5YYEOpd7kFdiIUgg==
Subject: [Mgs] Tires... Bah
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Had a blowout on the freeway today, so I'm down one tire. There are several
annoying aspects to this.

1. Tread was fine on all 4, but now I am going to have to buy 4 new tires,
because...
2. ...this particular tire is no longer available (Sumitomo HTR 200).
3. Moreover, NO summer performance tire OF ANY BRAND is available in this
size (175/70R-14), so I can't even mix axles if I wanted to (IMO it would be
suicidal to mix summer hi-perf tires on one axle with an all-season tire on
the other, at the beginning of the rainy season, when I'm temporarily down
to one car).
4. The only tires available in 175/70-14 or 185/70-14 are all-season touring
tires (i.e. minivan/econobox tires).
 
Out of this extremely limited selection, does anyone have a recent
recommendation?

Treadwear is not a factor -- I don't think I've ever worn out a set of tires
on the MG. Old age or road hazards have killed them first.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
And now GHN3U137949G
(not going anywhere anytime soon)
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 21 02:02:12 2014
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Max Heim" <mvheim@sonic.net>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <D06ACFB4.55571%mvheim@sonic.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 08:39:51 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Tires... Bah
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I think you are being over-cautious not wanting to mix axles (if you could 
get any, that is), particularly with rain.  As long as the ones with the 
best grip are on the rear you should be fine.  Over 40 years ago when I 
first changed from crossply to radial I couldn't afford four, and it was 
really frustrating to put a pair on the back then wait until I could afford 
another pair for the front to get the full benefit.  I'm surprised you don't 
have online specialists available to you.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> 3. Moreover, NO summer performance tire OF ANY BRAND is available in this
> size (175/70R-14), so I can't even mix axles if I wanted to (IMO it would 
> be
> suicidal to mix summer hi-perf tires on one axle with an all-season tire 
> on
> the other, at the beginning of the rainy season, when I'm temporarily down
> to one car).
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 21 06:33:10 2014
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From: "Ray Graham" <runner01@wowway.com>
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Subject: [Mgs] Difficulty Shifting into 1st and Reverse
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Folks,

I have been experiencing difficulty shifting my 1966 MGB into 1st and
Reverse gears.  Shifting into all other gears are fine, including down
shifting.  No hydraulic leaks, however, I replaced the brake master cylinder
yesterday, fully bled the system.  Didn't solve the problem.  Seems to be
worse the hotter the engine and longer it is driven.

 

Wonder if the small hose feeding the slave cylinder could be defective?

 

Appreciate the advice,

Ray



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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 21 07:50:34 2014
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From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 13:52:40 GMT
To: runner01@wowway.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Difficulty Shifting into 1st and Reverse
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

  The hose is often a problem. While you are underneath the car, why not
rebuild the slave cylinder too. It can leak/bypass internally without leaking
fluid to the outside.   Problem can worsen when engine and gearbox are warm,
as the gears turn easier. If clutch is not releasing completely, its drag will
turn these unsynchronised gears faster when they are warm. Same problem; it's
just a bit worse when warm.   Check that the bleed screw is in the upper hole.
Hose and bleed screw will fit either hole, but hose should be in the lower
hole in order that an air bubble is not trapped.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Ray Graham" <runner01@wowway.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Difficulty Shifting into 1st and Reverse
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 07:26:10 -0500

Folks,

I have been experiencing difficulty shifting my 1966 MGB into 1st and
Reverse gears.  Shifting into all other gears are fine, including down
shifting.  No hydraulic leaks, however, I replaced the brake master cylinder
yesterday, fully bled the system.  Didn't solve the problem.  Seems to be
worse the hotter the engine and longer it is driven.



Wonder if the small hose feeding the slave cylinder could be defective?



Appreciate the advice,

Ray



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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 21 08:50:09 2014
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Ray Graham" <runner01@wowway.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <002301cfed2a$32828e60$9787ab20$@wowway.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 15:43:43 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Difficulty Shifting into 1st and Reverse
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

If it's grinding when going into reverse then it's the clutch failing to 
fully disengage, which could be hydraulics or mechanical, and that should 
always be the first test.

If it's grinding in reverse but in forward gears still engaging with the 
pedal at the normal position off the floor, then it's mechanical inside the 
bell-housing not hydraulic.  Hydraulic problems i.e. air in the system will 
make it engage lower.

If it's not grinding in reverse, just stiff to engage then it is mechanical 
with the gearbox.  Lift the lever boot and check the lever isn't fouling the 
sides of the hole in the tunnel.  If that's clear then it's do with the 
shift linkage or mechanism, unfortunately.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I have been experiencing difficulty shifting my 1966 MGB into 1st and
> Reverse gears. 
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 21 10:06:54 2014
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Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 08:58:24 -0700
From: Max Heim <mvheim@sonic.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Mgs] Tires... Bah
Thread-Index: Ac/tR9gJ5e7yPoEro0CkPR0lA1RVZw==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Tires... Bah
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Hmm. The first time I hit a wet spot with these Sumitomos, I realized it was
a whole different ball game. The problem is that the "best grip" would
entirely depend on road conditions -- in a puddle, the "best grip" woud be
the all season tire, but as soon as they dried off, it would be the summer
tire. I don't think that would be a safe way to drive, unless I was just
tootling around at 10 under the limit like Mr. Magoo.

I can afford to buy four, I just hate to waste all that tread life, and I
got used to the dry road traction. Now I have to go back to a compromise,
just when it may never rain again around here.

My frustration with the all season tires is that when you read the reviews,
90% of the reviewers live in the snow belt, drive Subarus, and all they talk
about is snow and rain traction, or tread wear and road noise. That
information is not germane, so the reviews and ratings are basically
useless.

So, what are you people using? Vredestein Sprints? By the time I get them
shipped, they were running something like $150 apiece, IIRC.


on 10/21/14 12:39 AM, PaulHunt73 at paulhunt73@virginmedia.com wrote:

> I think you are being over-cautious not wanting to mix axles (if you could
> get any, that is), particularly with rain.  As long as the ones with the
> best grip are on the rear you should be fine.  Over 40 years ago when I
> first changed from crossply to radial I couldn't afford four, and it was
> really frustrating to put a pair on the back then wait until I could afford
> another pair for the front to get the full benefit.  I'm surprised you don't
> have online specialists available to you.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
>> 3. Moreover, NO summer performance tire OF ANY BRAND is available in this
>> size (175/70R-14), so I can't even mix axles if I wanted to (IMO it would
>> be
>> suicidal to mix summer hi-perf tires on one axle with an all-season tire
>> on
>> the other, at the beginning of the rainy season, when I'm temporarily down
>> to one car).
> 

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
And now GHN3U137949G
(not going anywhere anytime soon)
_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 22 02:00:02 2014
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Max Heim" <mvheim@sonic.net>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <D06BD0B0.555E6%mvheim@sonic.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2014 08:18:20 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Tires... Bah
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On a dry road the best grip would be slicks!  Road tyres are always a 
compromise, that is why we drive to the road conditions ... I hope, leaving 
Mr Magoo well behind wet or dry.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Hmm. The first time I hit a wet spot with these Sumitomos, I realized it 
> was
> a whole different ball game. The problem is that the "best grip" would
> entirely depend on road conditions -- in a puddle, the "best grip" woud be
> the all season tire, but as soon as they dried off, it would be the summer
> tire. I don't think that would be a safe way to drive, unless I was just
> tootling around at 10 under the limit like Mr. Magoo. 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 16:03:39 -0700
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] DPO butchering of Alternator replacement?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a '71 MGB-GT on which I am replacing the alternator.

According to Moss Motors, the replacement only uses 2 pins of the
3-pin connector (the instructions  are badly written, but this is what
I understand from them).

Looking at the existing installation, I see an alternator that has the
new 3-pin setup. The wiring on this 3-pin setup has a thick brown wire
(presumably the Positive wire) connected to one terminal, a medium
brown wire (presumably the "A" wire) connected to another terminal and
a thin brown/yellow wire (presumably the Indicator wire: "D")
connected to the smallest terminal on the Alternator.

Also hanging from the wiring harness is the old 3-pin connector, which
has one wire still attached -- a thin brown/yellow wire.

Was there ever an alternator in which the connection of these 3 wires
would have been necessary? Is the connection of the medium brown wire
just redundant, or could it be harmful?

Any suggestions?
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 16:33:14 -0700
From: Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>
To: MGS <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] DPO butchering of Alternator replacement?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

A little more on this. I see 3 brown/yellow wires:
1. Connecting to the small pin (of the group of 3) on the alternator.
2. Attached to the old 3-pin connector (which is hanging loose, so not
connected to anything)
3. Hanging loose.

I assume that the two brown yellow wires that are not connected to
anything are the loop described in the conversion instructions.
Furthermore, after consulting the wiring diagram, I assume that the
medium brown wire is the one that connects to the solenoid (along with
the thick brown wire). So, perhaps this could be dangerous: if the
thick brown wire became broken or disconnected, all the current out of
the alternator would flow through a wire which is not capable of
carrying the current without overheating.

Simon

On Sat, Oct 25, 2014 at 4:03 PM, Simon Matthews
<simon.d.matthews@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have a '71 MGB-GT on which I am replacing the alternator.
>
> According to Moss Motors, the replacement only uses 2 pins of the
> 3-pin connector (the instructions  are badly written, but this is what
> I understand from them).
>
> Looking at the existing installation, I see an alternator that has the
> new 3-pin setup. The wiring on this 3-pin setup has a thick brown wire
> (presumably the Positive wire) connected to one terminal, a medium
> brown wire (presumably the "A" wire) connected to another terminal and
> a thin brown/yellow wire (presumably the Indicator wire: "D")
> connected to the smallest terminal on the Alternator.
>
> Also hanging from the wiring harness is the old 3-pin connector, which
> has one wire still attached -- a thin brown/yellow wire.
>
> Was there ever an alternator in which the connection of these 3 wires
> would have been necessary? Is the connection of the medium brown wire
> just redundant, or could it be harmful?
>
> Any suggestions?
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 19:17:02 -0500
From: Charles Hill <chillmog@sbcglobal.net>
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 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <CAEUYfyMSbkWXbjwH4DEt4pHE6aqnKNeXtVWR_eLk4S1Vfhovuw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEUYfyOukKwKhFz8qL9gSBMOUF4i-LaEijhUHcZ7nutkZkKUPA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] DPO butchering of Alternator replacement?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon,
Did you get my original message?  It went to just you.  I can resend it 
if not.  It should answer most of your questions.

Charles Hill

  On 10/25/2014 6:33 PM, Simon Matthews wrote:
> A little more on this. I see 3 brown/yellow wires:
> 1. Connecting to the small pin (of the group of 3) on the alternator.
> 2. Attached to the old 3-pin connector (which is hanging loose, so not
> connected to anything)
> 3. Hanging loose.
>
> I assume that the two brown yellow wires that are not connected to
> anything are the loop described in the conversion instructions.
> Furthermore, after consulting the wiring diagram, I assume that the
> medium brown wire is the one that connects to the solenoid (along with
> the thick brown wire). So, perhaps this could be dangerous: if the
> thick brown wire became broken or disconnected, all the current out of
> the alternator would flow through a wire which is not capable of
> carrying the current without overheating.
>
> Simon
>
> On Sat, Oct 25, 2014 at 4:03 PM, Simon Matthews
> <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I have a '71 MGB-GT on which I am replacing the alternator.
>>
>> According to Moss Motors, the replacement only uses 2 pins of the
>> 3-pin connector (the instructions  are badly written, but this is what
>> I understand from them).
>>
>> Looking at the existing installation, I see an alternator that has the
>> new 3-pin setup. The wiring on this 3-pin setup has a thick brown wire
>> (presumably the Positive wire) connected to one terminal, a medium
>> brown wire (presumably the "A" wire) connected to another terminal and
>> a thin brown/yellow wire (presumably the Indicator wire: "D")
>> connected to the smallest terminal on the Alternator.
>>
>> Also hanging from the wiring harness is the old 3-pin connector, which
>> has one wire still attached -- a thin brown/yellow wire.
>>
>> Was there ever an alternator in which the connection of these 3 wires
>> would have been necessary? Is the connection of the medium brown wire
>> just redundant, or could it be harmful?
>>
>> Any suggestions?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 20:05:32 -0500
From: Charles Hill <chillmog@sbcglobal.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <544C34CC.2030101@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Fwd: Re:  DPO butchering of Alternator replacement?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here it is.  It went to Simon only as I pushed the wrong button. Didn't 
mean to slight anyone.

Charles Hill


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	Re: [Mgs] DPO butchering of Alternator replacement?
Date: 	Sat, 25 Oct 2014 18:39:56 -0500
From: 	Charles Hill <chillmog@sbcglobal.net>
To: 	Simon Matthews <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>



Simon,
Not much on alternators - my car still has a generator.  Here is a link
to the 71 MGB wiring diagram.
http://chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/mgb/pdf/mgb_wd06.pdf
It looks like the two brown wires on the original alternator are
connected to the hot terminal on the starter solenoid.  My guess that
the two wires are a hold-over in the car's wiring from the days of
external regulators.  Most alternators now have an internal regulator
and the second smaller brown wire is not necessary.  Keep the small
brown/yellow wire for the charge light.

Charles Hill


On 10/25/2014 6:03 PM, Simon Matthews wrote:
> I have a '71 MGB-GT on which I am replacing the alternator.
>
> According to Moss Motors, the replacement only uses 2 pins of the
> 3-pin connector (the instructions  are badly written, but this is what
> I understand from them).
>
> Looking at the existing installation, I see an alternator that has the
> new 3-pin setup. The wiring on this 3-pin setup has a thick brown wire
> (presumably the Positive wire) connected to one terminal, a medium
> brown wire (presumably the "A" wire) connected to another terminal and
> a thin brown/yellow wire (presumably the Indicator wire: "D")
> connected to the smallest terminal on the Alternator.
>
> Also hanging from the wiring harness is the old 3-pin connector, which
> has one wire still attached -- a thin brown/yellow wire.
>
> Was there ever an alternator in which the connection of these 3 wires
> would have been necessary? Is the connection of the medium brown wire
> just redundant, or could it be harmful?
>
> Any suggestions?
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 26 09:47:36 2014
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From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
To: "Simon Matthews" <simon.d.matthews@gmail.com>, "MGS" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAEUYfyMSbkWXbjwH4DEt4pHE6aqnKNeXtVWR_eLk4S1Vfhovuw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEUYfyOukKwKhFz8qL9gSBMOUF4i-LaEijhUHcZ7nutkZkKUPA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2014 15:22:15 -0000
Subject: Re: [Mgs] DPO butchering of Alternator replacement?
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The first internally regulated alternators (16ACR 69-71) used two plugs to 
connect to four terminals - the main charging terminal, a battery voltage 
sensing terminal used to control the regulator - both brown that went to the 
battery cable on the solenoid, and two terminals that the ignition warning 
light - brown/yellow, was connected to.  This last went to one terminal in 
each plug and I suspect was a way of protecting the alternator should one of 
the plugs fall out.

On the face of it both brown wires would be at the same voltage as they went 
to the same place, so in theory voltage regulation could be done by a simple 
internal connection inside the alternator.  But under high current 
conditions there will always be a volt-drop in the main charging wire from 
the alternator to the solenoid, which will result in a lower voltage at the 
solenoid than is being output by the alternator.  Battery sensing uses the 
voltage at the solenoid to control the regulator, which ensures that the 
required voltage exists at the solenoid at least, even though that resulted 
in a higher voltage at the alternator output terminal.

The next alternators (also 16ACR 1972) used a three-pin plug with one large 
spade for the charging wire which went to the solenoid, a standard-sized 
terminal for the brown/yellow indicator wire, and a third terminal of a 
different shape or size for the battery sensing wire which also went to the 
solenoid.

Subsequently this alternator was modified to have the regulator sensing wire 
connected internally to the output wire, and these are machine sensing 
instead of battery sensing.  The same 3-pin plug was used, I don't know what 
the third terminal was like.

The next variant was the 17ACR (73-76) which used the same three pin plug 
but seems to have reverted to battery sensing again, possibly because of low 
voltage at the solenoid.

The final variant was the 18ACR which reverted yet again to machine sensing, 
using the same 3-pin plug but now had two large output terminals plus the 
indicator terminal, and two thick brown output cables from the alternator to 
the solenoid, and up to a splitter by the firewall.  Two output cables 
halved the volt-drop under high current conditions.

73-76 i.e. battery sensing wiring is directly compatible with the later 
machine sensing alternators with the two large output terminals, the thinner 
brown wire just acts as an additional output wire, which reduces volt-drop a 
little.

The same can be said of the earlier four-pin, two plug alternators if at 
least the thick brown and the correct brown/yellow are connected to the 
plug.  The thinner brown can be connected to the spare output terminal for 
additional current carrying capacity, if not it must be carefully insulated 
and not allowed to come into contact with anything, unless it is detached 
from the solenoid and securely taped back.  The brown/yellow that comes from 
the warning light should be identified and the remaining two taped back out 
of the way.  If the two brown/yellows are left connected together then that 
should be safely insulated and the single brown/yellow used for the plug, or 
vive-versa.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
>A little more on this. I see 3 brown/yellow wires:
> 1. Connecting to the small pin (of the group of 3) on the alternator.
> 2. Attached to the old 3-pin connector (which is hanging loose, so not
> connected to anything)
> 3. Hanging loose.
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