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To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2015 15:07:49 -0400
Importance: Normal
Subject: [Mgs] Test
From: FrankK via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Is the list working? No posts for several days now.
Frank K
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<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Is the list working? No posts for several days now.</DIV>
<DIV>Frank K</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  1 18:14:33 2015
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To: <MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com>,
	"MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <286821624.1595530.1432927473342.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <FA2CA1D24A8B485D824A41296D8A35B6@paul>
 <2098720546.1986021.1432991523145.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 30 May 2015 15:17:30 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] No Start
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Filter is not an indicator, it can be anything from full to empty with =
the car running as it should.  Why I don't know, but I've seen both on =
mine, and so have others.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  Re: the fuel pump - it's an aftermarket 'black box' electric pump that =
clicks all the time, albeit not as loudly as an SU pump. But I did check =
it when I was at the side of the road and
  it was operating as it usually does, and there was fuel sitting in the =
filter in the engine bay. 
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff" bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Filter is&nbsp;not an indicator, it can be anything =
from full=20
to empty with the car running as it should.&nbsp; Why I don't know, but =
I've=20
seen both on mine, and so have others.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">Re: the fuel pump - it's an =
aftermarket 'black=20
  box' electric pump that clicks all the time, albeit not as loudly as =
an SU=20
  pump. But I did check it when I was at the side of the road and</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"POSITION: relative" id=3Dygrp-mlmsg>
  <DIV style=3D"Z-INDEX: 1" id=3Dygrp-msg>
  <DIV id=3Dygrp-text>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff; FONT-FAMILY: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica =
Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; COLOR: #000; =
FONT-SIZE: 13px">
  <DIV dir=3Dltr id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1432991068514_7432>it was operating =
as it usually=20
  does, and there was fuel sitting in the filter in the engine bay.=20
  </DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  1 18:16:14 2015
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To: <MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com>,
	"MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <286821624.1595530.1432927473342.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 30 May 2015 10:40:48 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] No Start
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Do not overhaul your carbs at this stage, it may be nothing to do with =
them.

The first check should have been to look at the tach the instant this =
started happening, and before you did anything else like turned off, =
dipped the clutch etc.  If the tach has dropped to zero when the =
momentum of the car is still spinning the engine, then you have an =
ignition LT fault.  Additionally if the ignition warning light was on =
you have lost the supply from the ignition switch.

If the tach still registers then it is either HT, fuel, or possibly =
condenser if it has points, so check the spark while cranking with a =
spare plug laying on the block.

What do you mean by 'fuel pump is clicking away'?  If it's clicking all =
the time the ignition is on, and it's an SU, then either the pump is =
faulty or it can't pick up fuel, possibly because the pickup pipe inside =
the tank has corroded through above the fuel level.  The first check for =
that is to remove the fuel delivery pipe from the carb, direct it into a =
container and switch on the ignition.  It should deliver at least one =
Imperial pint per minute and in practice more than double that, in a =
continuous series of pulses with minimal bubbling.

If the idle drops below 600 rpm the ignition warning light does usually =
come back on, although later MGB usually don't drop that low.  It won't =
be the alternator that caused this if there was still enough power to =
crank.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  Ok, need a start on where to look here.... Was out driving the '76B =
(w/'75 engine and Z-S) and was going up a slight hill - car seemed to =
lose power
  and died after going down an exit ramp and stopping at a stop sign =
(car actually shut off when I pushed out clutch approaching the stop). =
Would not
  restart.
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=EF=BB=BF<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff" bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do not overhaul your carbs at this stage, it may be =
nothing to=20
do with them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The first check should have been to look at the tach =
the=20
instant this started happening, and before you did anything else like =
turned=20
off, dipped the clutch etc.&nbsp; If the tach has dropped to zero when =
the=20
momentum of the car is still spinning the engine, then you have an =
ignition LT=20
fault.&nbsp; Additionally if the ignition warning light was on you have =
lost the=20
supply from the ignition switch.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If the tach still registers then it is either HT, =
fuel, or=20
possibly condenser if it has points, so check the spark while cranking =
with a=20
spare plug laying on the block.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>What do you mean by 'fuel pump is clicking =
away'?&nbsp; If=20
it's clicking all the time the ignition is on, and it's an SU, then =
either the=20
pump is faulty or it can't pick up fuel, possibly because the pickup =
pipe inside=20
the tank has corroded through above the fuel level.&nbsp; The first =
check for=20
that is to remove the fuel delivery pipe from the carb, direct it into a =

container and switch on the ignition.&nbsp; It should deliver at least =
one=20
Imperial pint per minute and in practice more than double that, in a =
continuous=20
series of pulses with minimal bubbling.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If the idle drops below 600 rpm the ignition warning =
light=20
does usually come back on, although later MGB usually don't drop that =
low.&nbsp;=20
It won't be the alternator that caused this if there was still enough =
power to=20
crank.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV>Ok, need a start on where to look here.... Was out driving the =
'76B=20
  (w/'75 engine and Z-S) and was going up a slight hill - car seemed to =
lose=20
  power</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"POSITION: relative" id=3Dygrp-mlmsg>
  <DIV style=3D"Z-INDEX: 1" id=3Dygrp-msg>
  <DIV id=3Dygrp-text>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff; FONT-FAMILY: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica =
Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; COLOR: #000; =
FONT-SIZE: 13px">
  <DIV dir=3Dltr id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1432910621327_12584>and died after =
going down an=20
  exit ramp and stopping at a stop sign (car actually shut off when I =
pushed out=20
  clutch approaching the stop). Would not</DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dltr=20
  =
id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1432910621327_12595>restart.</DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></D=
IV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  5 14:14:38 2015
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Date: Fri, 05 Jun 2015 15:14:17 -0500
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] Buying lever shock cores FREE PICKUP...
From: Peter Caldwell via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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..... If you happen to be conveniently located along Interstate 
94  or 69 on my way to and from Frankenmuth Michigan June 17, 18.

Please contact me off lists.

Peter C

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  5 16:00:30 2015
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Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2015 21:52:00 +0000 (UTC)
To: Peter Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <20150605201415.898A7F44E53@mx2.netinteraction.com>
Thread-Topic: Buying lever shock cores FREE PICKUP...
Thread-Index: aXR/RaxB9o7eXSZftppzXbiIOPf4Cg==
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Buying lever shock cores FREE PICKUP...
From: Gordie Bird via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Actually, Michigan Rowdies will be heading to Frankenmuth from most points in MI. If someone needed a couple cores taken to Frankenmuth, I'll bet it could be arranged. I know John Alexander from Ann Arbor is planning on bringing some. 

Gordie Bird 
'62 MGA 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Peter Caldwell via Mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net> 
To: mgs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2015 4:14:17 PM 
Subject: [Mgs] Buying lever shock cores FREE PICKUP... 

..... If you happen to be conveniently located along Interstate 
94 or 69 on my way to and from Frankenmuth Michigan June 17, 18. 

Please contact me off lists. 

Peter C 

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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div>Actually, Michigan Rowdies will be heading to Frankenmuth from mos=
t points in MI.&nbsp; If someone needed a couple cores taken to Frankenmuth=
, I'll bet it could be arranged.&nbsp; I know John Alexander from Ann Arbor=
 is planning on bringing some.<br></div><div><br></div><div>Gordie Bird<br>=
</div><div>'62 MGA<br></div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"c=
olor:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-fa=
mily:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><b>From: </b>"Peter Caldwe=
ll via Mgs" &lt;mgs@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>To: </b>mgs@autox.team.net<br>=
<b>Sent: </b>Friday, June 5, 2015 4:14:17 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>[Mgs] Buyin=
g lever shock cores FREE PICKUP...<br><div><br></div>..... If you happen to=
 be conveniently located along Interstate <br>94 &nbsp;or 69 on my way to a=
nd from Frankenmuth Michigan June 17, 18.<br><div><br></div>Please contact =
me off lists.<br><div><br></div>Peter C<br><div><br></div>_________________=
______________________________<br><div><br></div>Mgs@autox.team.net<br>Dona=
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  6 11:31:45 2015
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Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2015 13:25:32 -0400 (EDT)
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Thread-Topic: 1974 MGB dashboard removal.
Thread-Index: soJfnUzpYfodzyXF6DALeoCji4Ev+g==
Subject: [Mgs] 1974 MGB dashboard removal.
From: William Killeffer via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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	boundary="----=_Part_26624402_1780551520.1433611532489"

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello everyone, 

I've recently started a project on my 1974 MGB to give it a long-overdue wiring harness replacement. 

Taking the dashboard out has been the source of a few headaches. I know it's probably best to remove the gauges and switches, pull the choke cable, and make sure the speedo and oil pressure line are disconnected. 

Now, I've removed the seven bolts up at the top of the dash, but I still can't remove it. 

Are there other bolts that I'm missing, and does the steering column need to be lowered? If anyone could supply pictures, that would be very helpful. Once it's out, I'm going to replace the foam fascia as it's rather cracked and dingy. But good wiring is the most important thing. 

Thank you, 
-William Killeffer 

------=_Part_26624402_1780551520.1433611532489
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: times new roman, new york, times, se=
rif; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><div>Hello everyone,<br></div><div><b=
r></div><div>I've recently started a project on my 1974 MGB to give it a lo=
ng-overdue wiring harness replacement.<br></div><div><br></div><div>Taking =
the dashboard out has been the source of a few headaches. I know it's proba=
bly best to remove the gauges and switches, pull the choke cable, and make =
sure the speedo and oil pressure line are disconnected.<br></div><div><br><=
/div><div>Now, I've removed the seven bolts up at the top of the dash, but =
I still can't remove it.<br></div><div><br></div><div>Are there other bolts=
 that I'm missing, and does the steering column need to be lowered? If anyo=
ne could supply pictures, that would be very helpful. Once it's out, I'm go=
ing to replace the foam fascia as it's rather cracked and dingy. But good w=
iring is the most important thing.<br></div><div><br></div><div>Thank you,<=
br></div><div>-William Killeffer<br></div></div></body></html>
------=_Part_26624402_1780551520.1433611532489--

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  7 10:18:21 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2015 12:01:19 -0400
Importance: Normal
Subject: [Mgs] 70 Fuel Pump question
From: dave willner via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============7585136116294822156==
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So I installed a new OEM SU this morning, purchased from Moss. Started =
right up, pulled out of the garage and it stopped running and =
won=E2=80=99t start now. I get the =E2=80=9Cticks=E2=80=9D but not sure =
why no fuel, gas is in the tank? I couldn=E2=80=99t have swapped the =
outlet and inlet pipes could I, I=E2=80=99m assuming that might be it?  =
Any other ideas before I pull things apart again would be appreciated, =
thanks=20

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A BRG
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 VS
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>So I installed a new OEM SU this morning, purchased from Moss. =
Started=20
right up, pulled out of the garage and it stopped running and =
won=E2=80=99t start now. I=20
get the =E2=80=9Cticks=E2=80=9D but not sure why no fuel, gas is in the =
tank? I couldn=E2=80=99t have=20
swapped the outlet and inlet pipes could I, I=E2=80=99m assuming that =
might be it?&nbsp;=20
Any other ideas before I pull things apart again would be appreciated, =
thanks=20
</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">Dave=20
Willner<BR>Stroudsburg, PA<BR>59 TR3A BRG<BR>70 MGB BRG<BR>70 BSA 441=20
VS</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  7 10:47:02 2015
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To: <wkilleffer@epbfi.com>
References: <647063620.26622710.1433611313394.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
 <544775695.26624403.1433611532491.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2015 09:41:55 -0700
Thread-Index: AQL2wPH/x3MN5Rgtu5rp3H+0BO8zv5tU/uJQ
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1974 MGB dashboard removal.
From: dcouncill via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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Since you may not have had a reply, I can tell you what I remember from =
doing my 72B about ten years ago. You took out the bolts at the top of =
the dash but there are also bolts on the bottom, I think three. They are =
probably Philips head screws, three of them that attach tabs from the =
metal underlying dash to the frame/bar on the body.

=20

David Councill

72 B

67 BGT

64 B

=20

From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William =
Killeffer via Mgs
Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2015 10:26 AM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] 1974 MGB dashboard removal.

=20

Hello everyone,

=20

I've recently started a project on my 1974 MGB to give it a long-overdue =
wiring harness replacement.

=20

Taking the dashboard out has been the source of a few headaches. I know =
it's probably best to remove the gauges and switches, pull the choke =
cable, and make sure the speedo and oil pressure line are disconnected.

=20

Now, I've removed the seven bolts up at the top of the dash, but I still =
can't remove it.

=20

Are there other bolts that I'm missing, and does the steering column =
need to be lowered? If anyone could supply pictures, that would be very =
helpful. Once it's out, I'm going to replace the foam fascia as it's =
rather cracked and dingy. But good wiring is the most important thing.

=20

Thank you,

-William Killeffer


------=_NextPart_000_0007_01D0A106.31D9FDF0
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" =
xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" =
xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" =
xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" =
xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta =
name=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 14 (filtered =
medium)"><style><!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
	{font-family:Calibri;
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	{mso-style-type:export-only;
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<o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Since you may not have had a reply, I can tell you what I remember =
from doing my 72B about ten years ago. You took out the bolts at the top =
of the dash but there are also bolts on the bottom, I think three. They =
are probably Philips head screws, three of them that attach tabs from =
the metal underlying dash to the frame/bar on the =
body.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>David Councill<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>72 B<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>67 BGT<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>64 B<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>William =
Killeffer via Mgs<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, June 6, 2015 10:26 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [Mgs] 1974 MGB =
dashboard removal.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Hello =
everyone,<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>I've recently started a =
project on my 1974 MGB to give it a long-overdue wiring harness =
replacement.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Taking the dashboard out =
has been the source of a few headaches. I know it's probably best to =
remove the gauges and switches, pull the choke cable, and make sure the =
speedo and oil pressure line are =
disconnected.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Now, I've removed the =
seven bolts up at the top of the dash, but I still can't remove =
it.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Are there other bolts that =
I'm missing, and does the steering column need to be lowered? If anyone =
could supply pictures, that would be very helpful. Once it's out, I'm =
going to replace the foam fascia as it's rather cracked and dingy. But =
good wiring is the most important =
thing.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Thank =
you,<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>-William =
Killeffer<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01D0A106.31D9FDF0--


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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  7 11:35:09 2015
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 <000601d0a140$de368c00$9aa3a400$@karamursel.org>
To: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1974 MGB dashboard removal.
From: Eric via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Check out this page - there are a few tips and hints there:

http://www.mgexp.com/article/dash-removal.html
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 <544775695.26624403.1433611532491.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2015 13:40:28 -0400
To: "wkilleffer@epbfi.com" <wkilleffer@epbfi.com>
Cc: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1974 MGB dashboard removal.
From: Truxtun Southworth via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============5699154930479767734==

--001a113dde9268866c0517f105bf

William,
I simple trick that makes installing the new wire loom much easier. Leave a
couple of inches or so of the color coded wire on each gauge and
connection.  Makes life so much easier too.


On Saturday, June 6, 2015, William Killeffer via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
> I've recently started a project on my 1974 MGB to give it a long-overdue
> wiring harness replacement.
>
> Taking the dashboard out has been the source of a few headaches. I know
> it's probably best to remove the gauges and switches, pull the choke cable,
> and make sure the speedo and oil pressure line are disconnected.
>
> Now, I've removed the seven bolts up at the top of the dash, but I still
> can't remove it.
>
> Are there other bolts that I'm missing, and does the steering column need
> to be lowered? If anyone could supply pictures, that would be very helpful.
> Once it's out, I'm going to replace the foam fascia as it's rather cracked
> and dingy. But good wiring is the most important thing.
>
> Thank you,
> -William Killeffer
>

--001a113dde9268866c0517f105bf
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

William,<div>I simple trick that=C2=A0makes installing the new wire loom=C2=
=A0much easier. Leave a couple of=C2=A0inches or so of=C2=A0the color coded=
=C2=A0wire on each gauge and connection.=C2=A0 Makes life so much easier to=
o.</div><div><br><br>On Saturday, June 6, 2015, William Killeffer via Mgs &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<=
br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left=
:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div style=3D"font-family:times new =
roman,new york,times,serif;font-size:12pt;color:#000000"><div>Hello everyon=
e,<br></div><div><br></div><div>I&#39;ve recently started a project on my 1=
974 MGB to give it a long-overdue wiring harness replacement.<br></div><div=
><br></div><div>Taking the dashboard out has been the source of a few heada=
ches. I know it&#39;s probably best to remove the gauges and switches, pull=
 the choke cable, and make sure the speedo and oil pressure line are discon=
nected.<br></div><div><br></div><div>Now, I&#39;ve removed the seven bolts =
up at the top of the dash, but I still can&#39;t remove it.<br></div><div><=
br></div><div>Are there other bolts that I&#39;m missing, and does the stee=
ring column need to be lowered? If anyone could supply pictures, that would=
 be very helpful. Once it&#39;s out, I&#39;m going to replace the foam fasc=
ia as it&#39;s rather cracked and dingy. But good wiring is the most import=
ant thing.<br></div><div><br></div><div>Thank you,<br></div><div>-William K=
illeffer<br></div></div></div></blockquote></div>

--001a113dde9268866c0517f105bf--

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Received: by 76.13.27.48; Sun, 07 Jun 2015 19:04:36 +0000 
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2015 19:04:35 +0000 (UTC)
To: "MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com" <MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com>, 
 MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <1112405106.2472843.1433098526556.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1119993912.2620529.1433113550946.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
 <FD0AFF3AF1FA4EAF923B29A31016E33B@paul>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] No Start
From: Dan DiBiase via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Ok, so did some additional diagnostics today......
1) Removed the pipe from carb to canister. No fuel flow. And when engine wa=
s running, no change to idle speed when hose was removed.2) I ended up putt=
ing fresh plugs in anyway, but made no difference.3) I also took off the di=
stributor cap - cap was replaced when car was gone through in August of 201=
3 and seems ok. There was a dusting of a yellowish powder=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0 on the inside of the cap, and also in the distributor itself - you c=
an see it in the pictures. Not a lot. Here are pics of the cap and rotor -
http://s24.photobucket.com/user/ddibiase/media/77DBA8FD-3769-4933-8B5C-08B6=
CF649EF8_zps8u8ib84h.jpg.html?sort=3D6&o=3D24
http://s24.photobucket.com/user/ddibiase/media/3D33FC26-1247-40C4-AD7C-B645=
8B618C36_zpszblkwtlf.jpg.html?sort=3D6&o=3D20
Car still will start when cold, runs very 'lumpy' and almost dies.
What should be the next steps?
Dan D'76BCentral NJ USA

      From: "'PaulHunt73' paulhunt73@virginmedia.com [MG-MGB]" <MG-MGB@yaho=
ogroups.com>
 To: MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com=20
 Sent: Monday, June 1, 2015 3:26 AM
 Subject: Re: [MG-MGB] No Start
  =20
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ght:normal;}#yiv3482326277 div.yiv3482326277ygrp-file-title {font-weight:bo=
ld;}#yiv3482326277 --> =EF=BB=BF=20

Agreed, does sound rich, which would be a cause of a smelly exhaust and not=
 starting hot.=C2=A0Coils can also fail when hot, but the symptom of that w=
ould be no spark.=C2=A0It is now time to start looking at the carb, and fir=
st I'd take the pipe to the canister from the carb and with the ignition on=
 see if you have fuel overflow i.e. faulty float valve or sunk float.=C2=A0=
PaulH.=C2=A0
 ----- Original Message -----  =C2=A0=C2=A0    If they are black, that mean=
 that the car is running too rich. If they get too black, they will not fir=
e properly.
=20


__._,_.___   Posted by: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>   =20
=20
  Visit Your Group   =20
    =E2=80=A2 Privacy =E2=80=A2 Unsubscribe =E2=80=A2 Terms of Use =20
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------=_Part_7664480_1027907348.1433703875979
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<html><body><div style=3D"color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:He=
lveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:13px"><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41091">Ok, so did some =
additional diagnostics today......</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_14336155774=
76_41092"><br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41093">1) Removed=
 the pipe from carb to canister. No fuel flow. And when engine was running,=
 no change to idle speed when hose was removed.</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_=
1_1433615577476_41126">2) I ended up putting fresh plugs in anyway, but mad=
e no difference.</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41143">3) I als=
o took off the distributor cap - cap was replaced when car was gone through=
 in August of 2013 and seems ok. There was a dusting of a yellowish powder<=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41159">&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp; on the inside of the cap, and also in the distributor itself - =
you can see it in the pictures. Not a lot. Here are pics of the cap and rot=
or -</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41176" dir=3D"ltr"><br></di=
v><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41216" dir=3D"ltr"><a id=3D"yui_3_1=
6_0_1_1433615577476_41215" href=3D"http://s24.photobucket.com/user/ddibiase=
/media/77DBA8FD-3769-4933-8B5C-08B6CF649EF8_zps8u8ib84h.jpg.html?sort=3D6&a=
mp;o=3D24">http://s24.photobucket.com/user/ddibiase/media/77DBA8FD-3769-493=
3-8B5C-08B6CF649EF8_zps8u8ib84h.jpg.html?sort=3D6&amp;o=3D24</a></div><div =
id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41250" dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div id=3D"yu=
i_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41251" dir=3D"ltr"><a id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_143361557=
7476_41286" href=3D"http://s24.photobucket.com/user/ddibiase/media/3D33FC26=
-1247-40C4-AD7C-B6458B618C36_zpszblkwtlf.jpg.html?sort=3D6&amp;o=3D20">http=
://s24.photobucket.com/user/ddibiase/media/3D33FC26-1247-40C4-AD7C-B6458B61=
8C36_zpszblkwtlf.jpg.html?sort=3D6&amp;o=3D20</a></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_=
0_1_1433615577476_41323" dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433=
615577476_41384" dir=3D"ltr">Car still will start when cold, runs very 'lum=
py' and almost dies.</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41385" dir=
=3D"ltr"><br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41386" dir=3D"ltr"=
>What should be the next steps?</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_=
41387" dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41388" d=
ir=3D"ltr">Dan D</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41389" dir=3D"l=
tr">'76B</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41390" dir=3D"ltr">Cent=
ral NJ USA<br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41142"><span></sp=
an></div><br>  <div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41312" style=3D"font-f=
amily: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans=
-serif; font-size: 13px;"> <div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41311" sty=
le=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida =
Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> <div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_143361557747=
6_41310" dir=3D"ltr"> <hr id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41314" size=3D"1=
">  <font id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433615577476_41313" face=3D"Arial" size=3D"2"=
> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> "'PaulHunt73' paulh=
unt73@virginmedia.com [MG-MGB]" &lt;MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com&gt;<br> <b><span=
 style=3D"font-weight: bold;">To:</span></b> MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com <br> <b=
><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b> Monday, June 1, 2015 3=
:26 AM<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Subject:</span></b> Re: [M=
G-MGB] No Start<br> </font> </div> <div class=3D"y_msg_container"><br><div =
id=3D"yiv3482326277">





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<div><font size=3D"2">Agreed, does sound rich, which would be a cause of a =
smelly=20
exhaust and not starting hot.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">Coils can also fail when hot, but the symptom of that=
 would be=20
no spark.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">It is now time to start looking at the carb, and firs=
t I'd=20
take the pipe to the canister from the carb and with the ignition on see if=
 you=20
have fuel overflow i.e. faulty float valve or sunk float.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">PaulH.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>&nbsp;</div>
<blockquote style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:#000000 2px solid;PADDING-LEFT:5px;PADDING=
-RIGHT:0px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;MARGIN-RIGHT:0px;">
  <div style=3D"FONT:10pt arial;">----- Original Message ----- </div>
  <div><font size=3D"2"></font>&nbsp;</div><span style=3D"DISPLAY:none;"><f=
ont size=3D"2"></font>&nbsp;</span>=20
  <div id=3D"yiv3482326277ygrp-text">
  <div>
  </div><div style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR:#fff;FONT-FAMILY:bookman old style, =
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  <div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yiv3482326277yui_3_16_0_1_1433113426576_5213">If t=
hey are black, that mean=20
  that the car is running too rich. If they get too black, they will not fi=
re=20
  properly.<br></div>
  <div id=3D"yiv3482326277yui_3_16_0_1_1433113426576_5169"><span></span></d=
iv></div></div></blockquote></div>





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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  7 15:49:34 2015
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Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2015 14:47:28 -0700
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Subject: [Mgs] MkII deluxe brake components
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Hi. I have a MGA Mk II deluxe, but either it came with MkII brakes, or
somebody replaced the Twin Cam/MkII deluxe caliper with a MkII caliper. I
noticed in the Moss catalog that no replacement is available for the MkII
deluxe caliper. Is it likely that the deluxe came out with just regular MkII
calipers to begin with? In looking at my calipers, rotors and pads it
appears that the front brakes haven't been working in a while: the pads
don't look they have seen any action, the rotors are a little rusty with
virtually no wear down from the extreme outer  section of the rotor, the
caliper pistons look encrusted as they sit at the caliper, and there are
spider webs and light debris that I thought would have been burnt off if the
pistons were making contact upon pressure of the brakes.

 

If this is true, I doubt that I will be able to break the pistons free and
will have to order complete new calipers.

 

Any thoughts??

 

TIA,

 

Clayton 


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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Hi. I have a MGA Mk II deluxe, but either it came with =
MkII brakes, or somebody replaced the Twin Cam/MkII deluxe caliper with =
a MkII caliper. I noticed in the Moss catalog that no replacement is =
available for the MkII deluxe caliper. Is it likely that the deluxe came =
out with just regular MkII calipers to begin with? In looking at my =
calipers, rotors and pads it appears that the front brakes haven&#8217;t =
been working in a while: the pads don&#8217;t look they have seen any =
action, the rotors are a little rusty with virtually no wear down from =
the extreme outer &nbsp;section of the rotor, the caliper pistons look =
encrusted as they sit at the caliper, and there are spider webs and =
light debris that I thought would have been burnt off if the pistons =
were making contact upon pressure of the brakes.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>If this is =
true, I doubt that I will be able to break the pistons free and will =
have to order complete new calipers.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Any =
thoughts??<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>TIA,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Clayton =
<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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--===============2850882537309728670==--

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  7 16:55:19 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2015 15:39:55 -0700
Thread-Index: AdChcaY9KsDkeEGdSvarseg83gPdjQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Mgs] mga MkII deluxe front wheel spindle distance piece
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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Hi. In disassembling my front suspension, I ran across something for which
the manual has no input other to insert the distance piece which is the long
cylindrical one end chamfered piece between the inner and outer bearings.
When all is assembled, should the distance piece be a close fit between the
two bearing or is there supposed to be lots of slack? I ask because one
assembly came off with lots of longitudinal movement for the distance piece,
while the other side disassembled leaving the inner bearing on the spindle
and the distance piece coming out of the hub. I am assuming that the
distance is supposed to be a tight fit, and that the hub which came off with
bearings intact, slipped one of the bearings enough for the distance piece
to bounce around inside.

 

TIA,

 

Clayton


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Hi. In disassembling my front suspension, I ran across =
something for which the manual has no input other to insert the distance =
piece which is the long cylindrical one end chamfered piece between the =
inner and outer bearings. When all is assembled, should the distance =
piece be a close fit between the two bearing or is there supposed to be =
lots of slack? I ask because one assembly came off with lots of =
longitudinal movement for the distance piece, while the other side =
disassembled leaving the inner bearing on the spindle and the distance =
piece coming out of the hub. I am assuming that the distance is supposed =
to be a tight fit, and that the hub which came off with bearings intact, =
slipped one of the bearings enough for the distance piece to bounce =
around inside.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>TIA,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Clayton<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  7 17:07:41 2015
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To: "'Gordie Bird'" <mg_garage@comcast.net>
References: <012b01d0a16b$8d324940$a796dbc0$@godblessthe.us>
 <83011015.22495299.1433715971432.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2015 15:56:53 -0700
Thread-Index: AQEHndHEQIAEHcpjRipZeeRl64kOGwJXceOKnyDx0FA=
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MkII deluxe brake components
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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Thanks Gordie. I thought all deluxes came front and back too, but this =
one is either mis-badged (it has the deluxe script on the boot), been =
modified by somebody, or is a transition car. It just occurred to me =
that I think I read somewhere that you can take a 1600 and make it a =
deluxe with a kit. I think. But it definitely doesn=E2=80=99t have the =
Dunlop front brakes with the square and easily removed pads; they are =
the regular pads and calipers of a 1600.

=20

Clayton

=20

From: Gordie Bird [mailto:mg_garage@comcast.net]=20
Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2015 3:26 PM
To: crk@godblessthe.us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MkII deluxe brake components

=20

what are the rear brakes?  Never heard of a deluxe with anything other =
than dunlop disk brakes all around.  Of course, that does not mean much.

Look up Autosport in Bloomington, Indiana and ask for Tucker (Madawick), =
the owner.  He has a deluxe and could probably answer your question.

Or, if you would like, come to Frankenmuth, MI next week and talk to him =
(and a couple hundred other MGA enthusiasts) at NAMGAR GT 40.

He will have his deluxe with him.

=20

Good luck,

Gordie

'62 MGA

=20

=20

  _____ =20

From: "Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net =
Sent: Sunday, June 7, 2015 5:47:28 PM
Subject: [Mgs] MkII deluxe brake components

=20

Hi. I have a MGA Mk II deluxe, but either it came with MkII brakes, or =
somebody replaced the Twin Cam/MkII deluxe caliper with a MkII caliper. =
I noticed in the Moss catalog that no replacement is available for the =
MkII deluxe caliper. Is it likely that the deluxe came out with just =
regular MkII calipers to begin with? In looking at my calipers, rotors =
and pads it appears that the front brakes haven=E2=80=99t been working =
in a while: the pads don=E2=80=99t look they have seen any action, the =
rotors are a little rusty with virtually no wear down from the extreme =
outer  section of the rotor, the caliper pistons look encrusted as they =
sit at the caliper, and there are spider webs and light debris that I =
thought would have been burnt off if the pistons were making contact =
upon pressure of the brakes.

=20

If this is true, I doubt that I will be able to break the pistons free =
and will have to order complete new calipers.

=20

Any thoughts??

=20

TIA,

=20

Clayton=20


_______________________________________________

=20

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net

=20


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Thanks Gordie. I thought =
all deluxes came front and back too, but this one is either mis-badged =
(it has the deluxe script on the boot), been modified by somebody, or is =
a transition car. It just occurred to me that I think I read somewhere =
that you can take a 1600 and make it a deluxe with a kit. I think. But =
it definitely doesn=E2=80=99t have the Dunlop front brakes with the =
square and easily removed pads; they are the regular pads and calipers =
of a 1600.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Gordie Bird =
[mailto:mg_garage@comcast.net] <br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, June 07, 2015 =
3:26 PM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] =
MkII deluxe brake components<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>what are the rear =
brakes?&nbsp; Never heard of a deluxe with anything other than dunlop =
disk brakes all around.&nbsp; Of course, that does not mean =
much.</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Look up Autosport =
in Bloomington, Indiana and ask for Tucker (Madawick), the owner.&nbsp; =
He has a deluxe and could probably answer your =
question.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Or, if you would =
like, come to Frankenmuth, MI next week and talk to him (and a couple =
hundred other MGA enthusiasts) at NAMGAR GT =
40.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>He will have his =
deluxe with him.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Good =
luck,<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Gordie<o:p></o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>'62 =
MGA<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div class=3DMsoNormal align=3Dcenter =
style=3D'text-align:center'><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><hr size=3D2 =
width=3D"100%" align=3Dcenter id=3Dzwchr></span></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'>From: =
</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'>&quot;Clayton =
Kirkwood via Mgs&quot; &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br><b>To: =
</b><a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Sent: =
</b>Sunday, June 7, 2015 5:47:28 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>[Mgs] MkII deluxe =
brake components<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p=
></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Hi. I =
have a MGA Mk II deluxe, but either it came with MkII brakes, or =
somebody replaced the Twin Cam/MkII deluxe caliper with a MkII caliper. =
I noticed in the Moss catalog that no replacement is available for the =
MkII deluxe caliper. Is it likely that the deluxe came out with just =
regular MkII calipers to begin with? In looking at my calipers, rotors =
and pads it appears that the front brakes haven=E2=80=99t been working =
in a while: the pads don=E2=80=99t look they have seen any action, the =
rotors are a little rusty with virtually no wear down from the extreme =
outer &nbsp;section of the rotor, the caliper pistons look encrusted as =
they sit at the caliper, and there are spider webs and light debris that =
I thought would have been burnt off if the pistons were making contact =
upon pressure of the brakes.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>If this is true, I doubt =
that I will be able to break the pistons free and will have to order =
complete new calipers.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Any =
thoughts??<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>TIA,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Clayton =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'=
><br>_______________________________________________<o:p></o:p></span></p=
><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'=
><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: =
<a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><br>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.75<br>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>F=
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  7 20:32:11 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <014901d0a172$e0d2cf00$a2786d00$@godblessthe.us>
 <1A625453-98B0-4BC3-9EFF-DED4C7739F52@ur.rochester.edu>
Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2015 19:23:31 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga MkII deluxe front wheel spindle distance piece
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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That is kind of what I thought. So how do I know which bearing needs to move
so that they are in this full contact position? Is this a press job, or
gentle hammer movement?

TIA,

 

Clayton

 

From: Osborne, Paul [mailto:paul@ece.rochester.edu] 
Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2015 5:41 PM
To: crk@godblessthe.us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga MkII deluxe front wheel spindle distance piece

 

the per pose  of the distance piece is to lock if you will the inter and
outer bearings together on the shaft. This makes them stronger as unit and
does not introduce and side thrust on the bearings.  There should be a few
spacer washers to give the hub and end float of a few thousands.  

 

paul

 

 

Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng.
University of Rochester 
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
585-275-5226

 

 

 

On Jun 7, 2015, at 6:39 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net





Hi. In disassembling my front suspension, I ran across something for which
the manual has no input other to insert the distance piece which is the long
cylindrical one end chamfered piece between the inner and outer bearings.
When all is assembled, should the distance piece be a close fit between the
two bearing or is there supposed to be lots of slack? I ask because one
assembly came off with lots of longitudinal movement for the distance piece,
while the other side disassembled leaving the inner bearing on the spindle
and the distance piece coming out of the hub. I am assuming that the
distance is supposed to be a tight fit, and that the hub which came off with
bearings intact, slipped one of the bearings enough for the distance piece
to bounce around inside.

 

TIA,

 

Clayton

_______________________________________________

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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>That is kind of what I thought. So how do I know which bearing needs to =
move so that they are in this full contact position? Is this a press =
job, or gentle hammer movement?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>TIA,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Osborne, Paul [mailto:paul@ece.rochester.edu] <br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, =
June 07, 2015 5:41 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
crk@godblessthe.us<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] mga MkII deluxe front =
wheel spindle distance piece<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>the per pose =
&nbsp;of the distance piece is to lock if you will the inter and outer =
bearings together on the shaft. This makes them stronger as unit and =
does not introduce and side thrust on the bearings. &nbsp;There should =
be a few spacer washers to give the hub and end float of a few =
thousands.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>paul<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span class=3Dapple-style-span><span =
style=3D'color:black'>Paul&nbsp;Osborne</span></span><span =
style=3D'color:black'><br><span class=3Dapple-style-span>Department of =
Electrical and Computer Eng.</span><br><span =
class=3Dapple-style-span>University of Rochester&nbsp;</span><br><span =
class=3Dapple-style-span>201 Hopeman Building RC</span><br><span =
class=3Dapple-style-span>Rochester NY 14627</span><br><span =
class=3Dapple-style-span>585-275-5226</span></span><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></spa=
n></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p=
></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Jun 7, 2015, at 6:39 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Hi. In =
disassembling my front suspension, I ran across something for which the =
manual has no input other to insert the distance piece which is the long =
cylindrical one end chamfered piece between the inner and outer =
bearings. When all is assembled, should the distance piece be a close =
fit between the two bearing or is there supposed to be lots of slack? I =
ask because one assembly came off with lots of longitudinal movement for =
the distance piece, while the other side disassembled leaving the inner =
bearing on the spindle and the distance piece coming out of the hub. I =
am assuming that the distance is supposed to be a tight fit, and that =
the hub which came off with bearings intact, slipped one of the bearings =
enough for the distance piece to bounce around =
inside.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&nbsp;<o:p></=
o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>TIA,<o:p></o:=
p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  7 20:39:35 2015
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Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2015 19:29:58 -0700
Thread-Index: AdChkow1wAQ8UswnS7irmsC4hDWU5Q==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Mgs] Deluxe --- not
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Well apparently I don't have a MkII Deluxe after all. Just a plain ol'
simple MkII. Oh well. I'll keep it:<))


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<html xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" =
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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Well apparently I don&#8217;t have a MkII Deluxe after =
all. Just a plain ol&#8217; simple MkII. Oh well. I&#8217;ll keep =
it:&lt;))<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  8 09:18:55 2015
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User-Agent: Workspace Webmail 5.14.0
To: "Barrie via" <mgs@autox.team.net>, MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jun 2015 08:09:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 64B progress
From: dcouncill--- via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6953862706633796798==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><span style=3D"font-family:Verdana; color:#000000; font-size:10=
pt;"><div>Two weeks ago, I was near completion of a rebuild of my 64B 3-mai=
n engine. But I needed to replace the oil cooler that had developed a crack=
 on its mounting bracket. I located another cooler from the list and instal=
led it last&nbsp; week. Then it was time to start the engine - but first I =
had to get the oil flowing by turning the engine with the starter. I had in=
sured that the pump was primed, and both the filter and cooler were filled =
with oil when I installed them to speed the process up. But after cranking =
for what seemed an excessive period of time with no oil pressure, I started=
 to worry. I could see oil was moving because the level in the sump had dec=
reased a far bit but nothing was coming out of the oil pressure hose. So I =
stopped for the day/weekend. Research on the Internet indicated that in fac=
t, the process can be very slow getting the oil through so I resumed the pr=
ocess again last Saturday. Another 30 seconds or so of cranking and I got o=
il pressure. Then it was time to hook up the ignition system and start it -=
 as soon as I turned the key, it fired right up, idling at 60 psi. I let it=
 run for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm to seat the tappets and had to tighten a fe=
w fittings (had slight leak from temp sender and slight seep on oil cooler =
fitting). So its close to returning to the road - just need a few short tes=
t drives around the neighborhood but hopefully the car will be back on the =
Washington State University campus later this week after almost a year abse=
nce. (I drove the 72B in today, it will be about 90 F on the top down cruis=
e home this afternoon)<br></div><div><br></div><div>David Councill</div><di=
v>64 B</div><div>67 BGT</div><div>72 B<br></div></span></body></html>

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  8 09:33:59 2015
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Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2015 15:24:06 +0000 (UTC)
To: "dcouncill@karamursel.org" <dcouncill@karamursel.org>, 
 Barrie via <mgs@autox.team.net>, 
 "MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com" <MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com>
References: <20150608080958.5cece6eaa82752075bda15df45f90bd6.c78050ebaf.wbe@email06.secureserver.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 64B progress
From: Dan DiBiase via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3887029077458130075==
	boundary="----=_Part_8658126_1247619961.1433777046509"

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That's great, David!
I wish I could get my '76 running again so I could get back to work on the =
'65.... Hopefully this week I'll have diagnosed it.

Dan D'76B, '65BCentral NJ USA     From: dcouncill--- via Mgs <mgs@autox.tea=
m.net>
 To: Barrie via <mgs@autox.team.net>; MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com=20
 Sent: Monday, June 8, 2015 11:09 AM
 Subject: [Mgs] 64B progress
  =20
Two weeks ago, I was near completion of a rebuild of my 64B 3-main engine. =
But I needed to replace the oil cooler that had developed a crack on its mo=
unting bracket. I located another cooler from the list and installed it las=
t=C2=A0 week. Then it was time to start the engine - but first I had to get=
 the oil flowing by turning the engine with the starter. I had insured that=
 the pump was primed, and both the filter and cooler were filled with oil w=
hen I installed them to speed the process up. But after cranking for what s=
eemed an excessive period of time with no oil pressure, I started to worry.=
 I could see oil was moving because the level in the sump had decreased a f=
ar bit but nothing was coming out of the oil pressure hose. So I stopped fo=
r the day/weekend. Research on the Internet indicated that in fact, the pro=
cess can be very slow getting the oil through so I resumed the process agai=
n last Saturday. Another 30 seconds or so of cranking and I got oil pressur=
e. Then it was time to hook up the ignition system and start it - as soon a=
s I turned the key, it fired right up, idling at 60 psi. I let it run for 2=
0 minutes at 2000 rpm to seat the tappets and had to tighten a few fittings=
 (had slight leak from temp sender and slight seep on oil cooler fitting). =
So its close to returning to the road - just need a few short test drives a=
round the neighborhood but hopefully the car will be back on the Washington=
 State University campus later this week after almost a year absence. (I dr=
ove the 72B in today, it will be about 90 F on the top down cruise home thi=
s afternoon)

David Councill64 B67 BGT72 B

_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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------=_Part_8658126_1247619961.1433777046509
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:He=
lveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:13px"><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433760563740_24533">That's great, Da=
vid!</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433760563740_24534"><br></div><div id=3D=
"yui_3_16_0_1_1433760563740_24535" dir=3D"ltr">I wish I could get my '76 ru=
nning again so I could get back to work on the '65.... Hopefully this week =
I'll have diagnosed it.<br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433760563740_2453=
7" dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433760563740_24538" dir=
=3D"ltr">Dan D</div><div dir=3D"ltr">'76B, '65B</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_=
1_1433760563740_24539" dir=3D"ltr">Central NJ USA</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_=
0_1_1433760563740_24542" style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neu=
e, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> <div id=
=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433760563740_24541" style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, =
Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16p=
x;"> <div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433760563740_24540" dir=3D"ltr"> <hr size=3D"=
1">  <font id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433760563740_24543" face=3D"Arial" size=3D"2=
"> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> dcouncill--- via M=
gs &lt;mgs@autox.team.net&gt;<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">To:=
</span></b> Barrie via &lt;mgs@autox.team.net&gt;; MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com <=
br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b> Monday, June 8, =
2015 11:09 AM<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Subject:</span></b>=
 [Mgs] 64B progress<br> </font> </div> <div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_143376056374=
0_24544" class=3D"y_msg_container"><br><div id=3D"yiv7375792701"><div id=3D=
"yui_3_16_0_1_1433760563740_24547"><span id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433760563740_2=
4546" style=3D"font-family:Verdana;color:#000000;font-size:10pt;"><div id=
=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433760563740_24545">Two weeks ago, I was near completion =
of a rebuild of my 64B 3-main engine. But I needed to replace the oil coole=
r that had developed a crack on its mounting bracket. I located another coo=
ler from the list and installed it last&nbsp; week. Then it was time to sta=
rt the engine - but first I had to get the oil flowing by turning the engin=
e with the starter. I had insured that the pump was primed, and both the fi=
lter and cooler were filled with oil when I installed them to speed the pro=
cess up. But after cranking for what seemed an excessive period of time wit=
h no oil pressure, I started to worry. I could see oil was moving because t=
he level in the sump had decreased a far bit but nothing was coming out of =
the oil pressure hose. So I stopped for the day/weekend. Research on the In=
ternet indicated that in fact, the process can be very slow getting the oil=
 through so I resumed the process again last Saturday. Another 30 seconds o=
r so of cranking and I got oil pressure. Then it was time to hook up the ig=
nition system and start it - as soon as I turned the key, it fired right up=
, idling at 60 psi. I let it run for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm to seat the tap=
pets and had to tighten a few fittings (had slight leak from temp sender an=
d slight seep on oil cooler fitting). So its close to returning to the road=
 - just need a few short test drives around the neighborhood but hopefully =
the car will be back on the Washington State University campus later this w=
eek after almost a year absence. (I drove the 72B in today, it will be abou=
t 90 F on the top down cruise home this afternoon)<br></div><div id=3D"yui_=
3_16_0_1_1433760563740_24548"><br></div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_14337605637=
40_24549">David Councill</div><div>64 B</div><div>67 BGT</div><div>72 B<br>=
</div></span></div></div><br>______________________________________________=
_<br><br><a ymailto=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.=
team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/=
donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Sugge=
sted annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.ne=
t/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>Forums: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/f=
orums</a><br>Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/=
mgs/d_dibiase@yahoo.com" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/op=
tions/mgs/d_dibiase@yahoo.com</a><br><br><br></div> </div> </div>  </div></=
body></html>
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--===============3887029077458130075==--

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  8 13:51:45 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <012b01d0a16b$8d324940$a796dbc0$@godblessthe.us>
 <83011015.22495299.1433715971432.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
 <014e01d0a175$3fa751c0$bef5f540$@godblessthe.us>
Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2015 12:40:08 -0700
Thread-Index: AQEHndHEQIAEHcpjRipZeeRl64kOGwJXceOKAeZb5EifExrggA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MkII deluxe brake components
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Gosh, I feel like Obama: I can say anything as if were  true. But that =
doesn=E2=80=99t make it so. Case in point, I don=E2=80=99t have a deluxe =
badge, nobody modified it, nor is it a transition car. It is strictly a =
MkII. My mistake.

crk

=20

From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Clayton =
Kirkwood via Mgs
Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2015 3:57 PM
To: 'Gordie Bird'
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MkII deluxe brake components

=20

Thanks Gordie. I thought all deluxes came front and back too, but this =
one is either mis-badged (it has the deluxe script on the boot), been =
modified by somebody, or is a transition car. It just occurred to me =
that I think I read somewhere that you can take a 1600 and make it a =
deluxe with a kit. I think. But it definitely doesn=E2=80=99t have the =
Dunlop front brakes with the square and easily removed pads; they are =
the regular pads and calipers of a 1600.

=20

Clayton

=20

From: Gordie Bird [mailto:mg_garage@comcast.net]=20
Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2015 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MkII deluxe brake components

=20

what are the rear brakes?  Never heard of a deluxe with anything other =
than dunlop disk brakes all around.  Of course, that does not mean much.

Look up Autosport in Bloomington, Indiana and ask for Tucker (Madawick), =
the owner.  He has a deluxe and could probably answer your question.

Or, if you would like, come to Frankenmuth, MI next week and talk to him =
(and a couple hundred other MGA enthusiasts) at NAMGAR GT 40.

He will have his deluxe with him.

=20

Good luck,

Gordie

'62 MGA

=20

=20

  _____ =20

From: "Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net =
Sent: Sunday, June 7, 2015 5:47:28 PM
Subject: [Mgs] MkII deluxe brake components

=20

Hi. I have a MGA Mk II deluxe, but either it came with MkII brakes, or =
somebody replaced the Twin Cam/MkII deluxe caliper with a MkII caliper. =
I noticed in the Moss catalog that no replacement is available for the =
MkII deluxe caliper. Is it likely that the deluxe came out with just =
regular MkII calipers to begin with? In looking at my calipers, rotors =
and pads it appears that the front brakes haven=E2=80=99t been working =
in a while: the pads don=E2=80=99t look they have seen any action, the =
rotors are a little rusty with virtually no wear down from the extreme =
outer  section of the rotor, the caliper pistons look encrusted as they =
sit at the caliper, and there are spider webs and light debris that I =
thought would have been burnt off if the pistons were making contact =
upon pressure of the brakes.

=20

If this is true, I doubt that I will be able to break the pistons free =
and will have to order complete new calipers.

=20

Any thoughts??

=20

TIA,

=20

Clayton=20


_______________________________________________

=20

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net

=20


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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Gosh, I feel like Obama: =
I can say anything as if were=C2=A0 true. But that doesn=E2=80=99t make =
it so. Case in point, I don=E2=80=99t have a deluxe badge, nobody =
modified it, nor is it a transition car. It is strictly a MkII. My =
mistake.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>crk<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Mgs =
[mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Clayton Kirkwood =
via Mgs<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, June 07, 2015 3:57 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
'Gordie Bird'<br><b>Cc:</b> mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: =
[Mgs] MkII deluxe brake components<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Thanks Gordie. I thought all deluxes came front =
and back too, but this one is either mis-badged (it has the deluxe =
script on the boot), been modified by somebody, or is a transition car. =
It just occurred to me that I think I read somewhere that you can take a =
1600 and make it a deluxe with a kit. I think. But it definitely =
doesn=E2=80=99t have the Dunlop front brakes with the square and easily =
removed pads; they are the regular pads and calipers of a =
1600.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Gordie Bird [<a =
href=3D"mailto:mg_garage@comcast.net">mailto:mg_garage@comcast.net</a>] =
<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, June 07, 2015 3:26 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a><br><b>Subject:<=
/b> Re: [Mgs] MkII deluxe brake components<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>what are the rear =
brakes?&nbsp; Never heard of a deluxe with anything other than dunlop =
disk brakes all around.&nbsp; Of course, that does not mean =
much.</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Look up Autosport =
in Bloomington, Indiana and ask for Tucker (Madawick), the owner.&nbsp; =
He has a deluxe and could probably answer your =
question.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Or, if you would =
like, come to Frankenmuth, MI next week and talk to him (and a couple =
hundred other MGA enthusiasts) at NAMGAR GT =
40.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>He will have his =
deluxe with him.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Good =
luck,<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Gordie<o:p></o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>'62 =
MGA<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></s=
pan></p></div><div class=3DMsoNormal align=3Dcenter =
style=3D'text-align:center'><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><hr size=3D2 =
width=3D"100%" align=3Dcenter></span></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'>From: =
</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'>&quot;Clayton =
Kirkwood via Mgs&quot; &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br><b>To: =
</b><a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Sent: =
</b>Sunday, June 7, 2015 5:47:28 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>[Mgs] MkII deluxe =
brake components<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p=
></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Hi. I =
have a MGA Mk II deluxe, but either it came with MkII brakes, or =
somebody replaced the Twin Cam/MkII deluxe caliper with a MkII caliper. =
I noticed in the Moss catalog that no replacement is available for the =
MkII deluxe caliper. Is it likely that the deluxe came out with just =
regular MkII calipers to begin with? In looking at my calipers, rotors =
and pads it appears that the front brakes haven=E2=80=99t been working =
in a while: the pads don=E2=80=99t look they have seen any action, the =
rotors are a little rusty with virtually no wear down from the extreme =
outer &nbsp;section of the rotor, the caliper pistons look encrusted as =
they sit at the caliper, and there are spider webs and light debris that =
I thought would have been burnt off if the pistons were making contact =
upon pressure of the brakes.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>If this is true, I doubt =
that I will be able to break the pistons free and will have to order =
complete new calipers.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Any =
thoughts??<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>TIA,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:black'>Clayton =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'=
><br>_______________________________________________<o:p></o:p></span></p=
><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'=
><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: =
<a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><br>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.75<br>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>F=
orums: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>Uns=
ubscribe: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net">=
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net</a><o:p><=
/o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div></div></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

--===============3338398565058926712==--

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 10 02:05:58 2015
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To: <crk@godblessthe.us>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <014901d0a172$e0d2cf00$a2786d00$@godblessthe.us>
 <1A625453-98B0-4BC3-9EFF-DED4C7739F52@ur.rochester.edu>
 <017101d0a192$1dae1730$590a4590$@godblessthe.us>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 08:55:52 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga MkII deluxe front wheel spindle distance piece
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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If it's like the MGB you put selective shims between the outer bearing =
and the distance piece so that when the nut is tightened to between 40 =
and 70 ft lb there is .002" to .004" free play in the bearings.  This =
may help - but I emphasise it is for the MGB =
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/suspensiontext.htm#endfloat

PaulH,=20
  ----- Original Message -----=20

  That is kind of what I thought. So how do I know which bearing needs =
to move so that they are in this full contact position? Is this a press =
job, or gentle hammer movement?

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If it's like the MGB you put selective shims between =
the outer=20
bearing and the distance piece so that when the nut is tightened to =
between 40=20
and 70 ft lb there is .002" to .004" free play in the bearings.&nbsp; =
This may=20
help - but I emphasise it is for the MGB <A=20
href=3D"http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/suspensiontext.htm#endfloat">http://w=
ww.mgb-stuff.org.uk/suspensiontext.htm#endfloat</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH,</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV class=3DWordSection1>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: =
11pt">That=20
  is kind of what I thought. So how do I know which bearing needs to =
move so=20
  that they are in this full contact position? Is this a press job, or =
gentle=20
  hammer =
movement?<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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To: "dave willner" <davewillner@pa.net>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <8D5E538B0B354C3C84D13D50666E0848@DavePC>
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 10:53:26 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 70 Fuel Pump question
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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If the pump is continually chattering then fuel isn't getting through to =
fill the float chamber, shut the float valves, and pressurise the system =
to shut off the pump.  But if you only get the occasional tick as normal =
then something else is wrong.

First take a fuel delivery pipe off a carb, direct it into a container, =
and switch on the ignition.  It should deliver at least one Imperial =
pint per minute and in practice more than double that, in a continual =
series of pulses with minimal bubbling.

That will tell you whether you need to go back towards the pump etc., or =
forwards to the carbs etc.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  So I installed a new OEM SU this morning, purchased from Moss. Started =
right up, pulled out of the garage and it stopped running and =
won=E2=80=99t start now. I get the =E2=80=9Cticks=E2=80=9D but not sure =
why no fuel, gas is in the tank?
------=_NextPart_000_041E_01D0A36B.ADC28920
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

=EF=BB=BF<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If the pump is continually chattering then fuel =
isn't getting=20
through to fill the float chamber, shut the float valves, and pressurise =
the=20
system to shut off the pump.&nbsp; But if you only get the occasional =
tick as=20
normal then something else is wrong.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>First take a fuel delivery pipe off a carb, direct =
it into a=20
container, and switch on the ignition.&nbsp; It should deliver at least =
one=20
Imperial pint per minute and in practice more than double that, in a =
continual=20
series of pulses with minimal bubbling.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>That will tell you whether you need to go back =
towards the=20
pump etc., or forwards to the carbs etc.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: =
12pt">
  <DIV>So I installed a new OEM SU this morning, purchased from Moss. =
Started=20
  right up, pulled out of the garage and it stopped running and =
won=E2=80=99t start now.=20
  I get the =E2=80=9Cticks=E2=80=9D but not sure why no fuel, gas is in =
the=20
  tank?</DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 13:04:51 +0000 (UTC)
To: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <014901d0a172$e0d2cf00$a2786d00$@godblessthe.us>
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Thread-Topic: mga MkII deluxe front wheel spindle distance piece
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga MkII deluxe front wheel spindle distance piece
From: Gordie Bird via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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The MGA does not use shims like the MGB 

----- Original Message -----

From: "PaulHunt73 via Mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net> 
To: crk@godblessthe.us, mgs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 3:55:52 AM 
Subject: Re: [Mgs] mga MkII deluxe front wheel spindle distance piece 

If it's like the MGB you put selective shims between the outer bearing and the distance piece so that when the nut is tightened to between 40 and 70 ft lb there is .002" to .004" free play in the bearings. This may help - but I emphasise it is for the MGB http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/suspensiontext.htm#endfloat 
PaulH, 



----- Original Message ----- 


That is kind of what I thought. So how do I know which bearing needs to move so that they are in this full contact position? Is this a press job, or gentle hammer movement? 



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<html><body><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><div>The MGA does not use shims like the MGB<br></div><div><br></div><hr id="zwchr"><div style="color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><b>From: </b>"PaulHunt73 via Mgs" &lt;mgs@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>To: </b>crk@godblessthe.us, mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, June 10, 2015 3:55:52 AM<br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Mgs] mga MkII deluxe front wheel spindle distance piece<br><div><br></div>



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<div><span style="font-size: small;" data-mce-style="font-size: small;" size="2">If it's like the MGB you put selective shims between the outer 
bearing and the distance piece so that when the nut is tightened to between 40 
and 70 ft lb there is .002" to .004" free play in the bearings.&nbsp; This may 
help - but I emphasise it is for the MGB <a href="http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/suspensiontext.htm#endfloat" target="_blank">http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/suspensiontext.htm#endfloat</a></span><br data-mce-bogus="1"></div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;" data-mce-style="font-size: small;" size="2"></span>&nbsp;</div>
<div><span style="font-size: small;" data-mce-style="font-size: small;" size="2">PaulH,</span>&nbsp;</div>
<blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
  <div><span style="font-size: small;" data-mce-style="font-size: small;" size="2"></span>&nbsp;</div>
  <div class="WordSection1">
  <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">That 
  is kind of what I thought. So how do I know which bearing needs to move so 
  that they are in this full contact position? Is this a press job, or gentle 
  hammer movement?</span></p></div></blockquote>
<br>_______________________________________________<br><div><br></div>Mgs@autox.team.net<br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.75<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.net<br></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>
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Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2015 10:11:02 -0500
To: dave willner <davewillner@pa.net>,<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <8D5E538B0B354C3C84D13D50666E0848@DavePC>
 {sentby:smtp auth 64.134.197.72 authed with barneymg@mgaguru.com}
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 70 Fuel Pump question
From: Barney Gaylord via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Check alignment of the contact points.  This is quite likely an 
ongoing quality problem hanging around for several years.  When 
originally discovered, Burlen refused to acknowledge any problem and 
would not fix it  See here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/faulty/ft037.htm


On 6/7/2015, dave willner<!-davewillner at pa.net-> wrote:
>So I installed a new OEM SU this morning, purchased from Moss. 
>Started right up, pulled out of the garage and it stopped running 
>and won't start now. I get the ticks but not sure why no fuel, gas 
>is in the tank? I couldn't have swapped the outlet and inlet pipes 
>could I, I'm assuming that might be it?  Any other ideas before I 
>pull things apart again would be appreciated, thanks
>....

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Subject: [Mgs] MGB Top Bows Available
From: Norm via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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If anyone needs a good pair of stow-away top bows, there is a pair on eBay -
# 281720175719
 
I used them on my '66 Race car/daily driver because of the roll bar.
Fold-down top wouldn't clear the bar.  Stow-away had the bar neatly between
the bows.  Worked well.
 
These bars are complete with snaps, were sanded and painted.  And, are in
good condition.  More photos available if wanted.
 
If you don't need them, please tell your friends who might.
 
Thanks.
 
Garage cleaning still going on.
 
Cheers,
 
Norm

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vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'tab-interval:.5in'><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>If anyone needs a good pair of stow-away top bows, =
there is a pair on eBay - # <span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:blac=
k;background:white'>281720175719</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I used them =
on my '66 Race car/daily driver because of the roll bar.<span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>Fold-down top wouldn't clear =
the bar.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>Stow-away had the =
bar neatly between the bows.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; =
</span>Worked well.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>These bars =
are complete with snaps, were sanded and painted.<span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>And, are in good =
condition.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>More photos =
available if wanted.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>If you don't =
need them, please tell your friends who might.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Garage =
cleaning still going on.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Cheers,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Norm<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 14 12:30:53 2015
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 for mgs@autox.team.net; Sun, 14 Jun 2015 14:29:56 -0400
To: "MG Digest" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2015 14:29:55 -0400
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Mgs] Eared Knock Offs FS
From: Norm Sippel via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Hi folks,
 
Sorry to bomb the List again.  But, I keep finding Spridget & MGB stuff in
my garage.  The latest is the set of four eared Knock Offs from my '66 MGB.
The set on the car were pretty beaten up from years of K.O. hammering.  So,
when I was prepping to show the car on occasion, I bought a new set, likely
from Moss.  Can't be sure as I always bought my Turner & MGB parts through
Bob at Brit Tex in New Hampshire.  And, he's a Moss dealer.
 
In any case, I put these K.O.s on eBay yesterday.  They are in really good
condition, but will surely sell for less than what Moss gets for new ones.
So, if you need nearly-new K.O.s, check out item # 281722104944.  As you may
know, they also fit some Austin-Healeys, Sprites, and Triumphs.
 
Cheers,
 
Norm
 

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vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'tab-interval:.5in'><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Hi folks,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sorry to =
bomb the List again.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>But, =
I keep finding Spridget &amp; MGB stuff in my garage.<span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>The latest is the set of four =
eared Knock Offs from my '66 MGB.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; =
</span>The set on the car were pretty beaten up from years of K.O. =
hammering.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>So, when I was =
prepping to show the car on occasion, I bought a new set, likely from =
Moss.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>Can't be sure as I =
always bought my Turner &amp; MGB parts through Bob at Brit Tex in New =
Hampshire.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>And, he's a =
Moss dealer.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>In any case, I put these K.O.s on eBay yesterday.<span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>They are in really good =
condition, but will surely sell for less than what Moss gets for new =
ones.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>So, if you need =
nearly-new K.O.s, check out item # <span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:blac=
k;background:white'>281722104944.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; =
</span>As you may know, they also fit some Austin-Healeys, Sprites, and =
Triumphs.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:blac=
k;background:white'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:blac=
k;background:white'>Cheers,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:blac=
k;background:white'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:blac=
k;background:white'>Norm</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 14 12:31:11 2015
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To: "MG Digest" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2015 14:31:00 -0400
Thread-Index: AdCm0ELkoXCmiiraS9OYknXbNduAGQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Mgs] Eared Knock Offs FS
From: Norm via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Hi folks,
 
Sorry to bomb the List again.  But, I keep finding Spridget & MGB stuff in
my garage.  The latest is the set of four winged Knock Offs from my '66 MGB.
The set on the car were pretty beaten up from years of K.O. hammering.  So,
when I was prepping to show the car on occasion, I bought a new set, likely
from Moss.  Can't be sure as I always bought my Turner & MGB parts through
Bob at Brit Tex in New Hampshire.  And, he's a Moss dealer.
 
In any case, I put these K.O.s on eBay yesterday.  They are in really good
condition, but will surely sell for less than what Moss gets for new ones.
So, if you need nearly-new K.O.s, check out item # 281722104944.  As you may
know, they also fit some Austin-Healeys, Sprites, and Triumphs.
 
Cheers,
 
Norm
 

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<o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
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<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'tab-interval:.5in'><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Hi folks,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sorry to =
bomb the List again.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>But, =
I keep finding Spridget &amp; MGB stuff in my garage.<span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>The latest is the set of four =
winged Knock Offs from my '66 MGB.<span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>The set on the car were pretty =
beaten up from years of K.O. hammering.<span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>So, when I was prepping to show =
the car on occasion, I bought a new set, likely from Moss.<span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>Can't be sure as I always =
bought my Turner &amp; MGB parts through Bob at Brit Tex in New =
Hampshire.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>And, he's a =
Moss dealer.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>In any case, I put these K.O.s on eBay yesterday.<span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>They are in really good =
condition, but will surely sell for less than what Moss gets for new =
ones.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; </span>So, if you need =
nearly-new K.O.s, check out item # <span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:blac=
k;background:white'>281722104944.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'>&nbsp; =
</span>As you may know, they also fit some Austin-Healeys, Sprites, and =
Triumphs.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:blac=
k;background:white'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:blac=
k;background:white'>Cheers,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:blac=
k;background:white'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:blac=
k;background:white'>Norm</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 16 17:23:25 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 16:22:51 -0700
Thread-Index: AdCoiwrVFOeV3wnxTgORf2YibO1S5g==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure sender
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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Does anybody know if there are mga oil pressure sender and screw-on on the
back of the gauge sources? If I can source one, I finally have a solution
for my 59 Landrover. 

 

TIA,

 

Clayton


------=_NextPart_000_0384_01D0A850.B1B00FA0
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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Does anybody know if there are mga oil pressure sender =
and screw-on on the back of the gauge sources? If I can source one, I =
finally have a solution for my 59 Landrover. <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>TIA,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Clayton<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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--===============4443509521749791696==
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_______________________________________________

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--===============4443509521749791696==--

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 16 21:36:05 2015
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To: <crk@godblessthe.us>,
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References: <038301d0a88b$5e0ee7a0$1a2cb6e0$@godblessthe.us>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 22:29:54 -0500
Importance: Normal
Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil pressure sender
From: Ron Sanborn via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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MGA had a mechanical (direct pressure) combination oil/ water temp =
gauge. An oil flex line connected between the engine and a fitting , a =
hard line connected from the fitting to the gauge (screw on).
If you are looking for a single oil gauge you may have to go with =
aftermarket.  If you need an electrical sending unit go MGB.
Moss Motors is good source.

Ron

From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs=20
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2015 6:22 PM
To: mgs@autox.team.net=20
Subject: [Mgs] oil pressure sender

Does anybody know if there are mga oil pressure sender and screw-on on =
the back of the gauge sources? If I can source one, I finally have a =
solution for my 59 Landrover.=20

=20

TIA,

=20

Clayton



-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/riverside@southslope.net



-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5961 / Virus Database: 4365/10034 - Release Date: =
06/17/15

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<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>MGA had a mechanical (direct pressure) combination oil/ water temp =
gauge.=20
An oil flex line connected between the engine and a fitting , a hard =
line=20
connected from the fitting to the gauge (screw on).</DIV>
<DIV>If you are looking for a single oil gauge you may have to go with=20
aftermarket.&nbsp; If you need an electrical sending unit go MGB.</DIV>
<DIV>Moss Motors is good source.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Ron</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=3Dmgs@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, June 16, 2015 6:22 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dmgs@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Mgs] oil pressure sender</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV class=3DWordSection1>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Does anybody know if there are mga oil pressure =
sender and=20
screw-on on the back of the gauge sources? If I can source one, I =
finally have a=20
solution for my 59 Landrover. <o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p></o:p>&nbsp;</P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>TIA,<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p></o:p>&nbsp;</P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Clayton<o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
_______________________________________________<BR><BR>Mgs@autox.team.net=
<BR>Donate:=20
$12.75<BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<BR>Forums:=20
http://www.team.net/forums<BR>Unsubscribe:=20
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<P>
<HR>
<A></A>
<P align=3Dleft color=3D"#000000" avgcert??>No virus found in this=20
message.<BR>Checked by AVG - <A=20
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Virus=20
Database: 4365/10034 - Release Date:=20
06/17/15</P></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 20 11:35:49 2015
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Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2015 12:28:20 -0500
References: <mailman.3.1434564002.20860.mgs@autox.team.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] backing up shudder
From: Mike Duvall via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net


Both my A and TD started jumping or shuddering when backing up.    I had th=
is happen before-  seems odd it started again on 2 cars but coincidence I=
=92m sure.

I searched and can=92t find much so I want to know if I=92m missing anythin=
g=85

Possible:
front engine mount
transmission mount  (do I have to take it out to see on the TD?) =

axle U bolts =


TD engine stabilizer

TD clutch (seems like might have been the problem last time but what do I a=
djust here)


Other ideas or what am I missing?   I read pilot bearings but were replaced=
 so I doubt much wear. =


Thanks, Mike
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 20 14:40:26 2015
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Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2015 20:39:03 GMT
To: mike@duvallvideo.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] backing up shudder
From: mgbob--- via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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----__JWM__J7bd5619.166bf383S.84a37c1M
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  Welcome back to the judder club.    In the TD, causes can be all you l=
isted:   Front mount-possible, I suppose you could use a pry bar gently =
and life engine to see if rubber has un-stuck from the metal. Originals =
lasted 50 years. Today's improved replacements about 1/5 of that. Lift g=
ently, though, as you don't want to cause separation if it has not alrea=
dy happened.  Stabiliser-check that movement of engine is about 1/8 inch=
, which is about the "give" in the rubbers. If more, look further, to ad=
justing the bar if there is evidence that the turnbuckle has moved (not =
likely), and inspection of the rubbers.   Transmission mount--from under=
neath, push up and pull down on the gearbox tail or at the flange. There=
 should not be much movement. If the rubbers are bulged and cracked, the=
y may be bad. Changing them is not complicated, but can be time taking a=
nd messy. Oil mess from engine is usual cause of their deterioration, th=
ough. No need to remove it; just shove the gearbox around to judge free =
movement, of which there should be less than 1/8 inch.   Axle U bolts--t=
he usual cause. If you have not already installed those wear plates on t=
op of the axle, remove one bolt and feel for groove worn where the U bol=
t passes over axle tube. Buy a pair of the wear plates if there is any g=
roove, and not a bad thing to have them installed anyway. MGA and later =
had them on the axles from new.  Best of luck finding it--this can be a =
challenge. I have been chasing it for a decade.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Mike Duvall via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] backing up shudder
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2015 12:28:20 -0500


Both my A and TD started jumping or shuddering when backing up.    I had=
 this happen before-  seems odd it started again on 2 cars but coinciden=
ce I&rsquo;m sure.

I searched and can&rsquo;t find much so I want to know if I&rsquo;m miss=
ing anything&hellip;

Possible:
front engine mount
transmission mount  (do I have to take it out to see on the TD?) =

axle U bolts =


TD engine stabilizer

TD clutch (seems like might have been the problem last time but what do =
I adjust here)


Other ideas or what am I missing?   I read pilot bearings but were repla=
ced so I doubt much wear. =


Thanks, Mike
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com

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<html><div>&nbsp; Welcome back to the judder club. &nbsp;</div><div>&nbs=
p; In the TD, causes can be all you listed:</div><div>&nbsp; &nbsp;Front=
 mount-possible, I suppose you could use a pry bar gently and life engin=
e to see if rubber has un-stuck from the metal. Originals lasted 50 year=
s. Today's improved replacements about 1/5 of that. Lift gently, though,=
 as you don't want to cause separation if it has not already happened.</=
div><div>&nbsp; Stabiliser-check that movement of engine is about 1/8 in=
ch, which is about the "give" in the rubbers. If more, look further, to =
adjusting the bar if there is evidence that the turnbuckle has moved (no=
t likely), and inspection of the rubbers.&nbsp;</div><div>&nbsp; Transmi=
ssion mount--from underneath, push up and pull down on the gearbox tail =
or at the flange. There should not be much movement. If the rubbers are =
bulged and cracked, they may be bad. Changing them is not complicated, b=
ut can be time taking and messy. Oil mess from engine is usual cause of =
their deterioration, though. No need to remove it; just shove the gearbo=
x around to judge free movement, of which there should be less than 1/8 =
inch.&nbsp;</div><div>&nbsp; Axle U bolts--the usual cause. If you have =
not already installed those wear plates on top of the axle, remove one b=
olt and feel for groove worn where the U bolt passes over axle tube. Buy=
 a pair of the wear plates if there is any groove, and not a bad thing t=
o have them installed anyway. MGA and later had them on the axles from n=
ew.</div><div>&nbsp; Best of luck finding it--this can be a challenge. I=
 have been chasing it for a decade.</div><div>Bob</div><div><br><br>----=
------ Original Message ----------<br>From: Mike Duvall via Mgs &lt;mgs@=
autox.team.net&gt;<br>To: mgs@autox.team.net<br>Subject: [Mgs] backing u=
p shudder<br>Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2015 12:28:20 -0500<br><br><br>Both my A =
and TD started jumping or shuddering when backing up. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
I had this happen before- &nbsp;seems odd it started again on 2 cars but=
 coincidence I&rsquo;m sure.<br><br>I searched and can&rsquo;t find much=
 so I want to know if I&rsquo;m missing anything&hellip;<br><br>Possible=
:<br>front engine mount<br>transmission mount &nbsp;(do I have to take i=
t out to see on the TD?) <br>axle U bolts <br><br>TD engine stabilizer<b=
r><br>TD clutch (seems like might have been the problem last time but wh=
at do I adjust here)<br><br><br>Other ideas or what am I missing? &nbsp;=
&nbsp;I read pilot bearings but were replaced so I doubt much wear. <br>=
<br>Thanks, Mike<br>_______________________________________________<br><=
br>Mgs@autox.team.net<br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Sugg=
ested annual donation &nbsp;$12.75<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archi=
ve<br>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe: http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com</p></html>

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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 21 01:48:15 2015
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To: <mgbob@juno.com>,
	<mike@duvallvideo.com>
References: <20150620.163903.27199.3@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2015 08:24:19 +0100
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] backing up shudder
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_002F_01D0ABFB.AB881E70"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Any above plus oil on the clutch.  Mine started only after clutch =
replacement, which was annoying, and has been doing it for 50k.  I  just =
use higher revs then I normally would when slipping for reversing, =
others say lower revs reduces it.  C'est la vie.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: mgbob--- via Mgs=20
  To: mike@duvallvideo.com=20
  Cc: mgs@autox.team.net=20
  Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2015 9:39 PM
  Subject: Re: [Mgs] backing up shudder


    Welcome back to the judder club. =20
    In the TD, causes can be all you listed:
     Front mount-possible, I suppose you could use a pry bar gently and =
life engine to see if rubber has un-stuck from the metal. Originals =
lasted 50 years. Today's improved replacements about 1/5 of that. Lift =
gently, though, as you don't want to cause separation if it has not =
already happened.
    Stabiliser-check that movement of engine is about 1/8 inch, which is =
about the "give" in the rubbers. If more, look further, to adjusting the =
bar if there is evidence that the turnbuckle has moved (not likely), and =
inspection of the rubbers.=20
    Transmission mount--from underneath, push up and pull down on the =
gearbox tail or at the flange. There should not be much movement. If the =
rubbers are bulged and cracked, they may be bad. Changing them is not =
complicated, but can be time taking and messy. Oil mess from engine is =
usual cause of their deterioration, though. No need to remove it; just =
shove the gearbox around to judge free movement, of which there should =
be less than 1/8 inch.=20
    Axle U bolts--the usual cause. If you have not already installed =
those wear plates on top of the axle, remove one bolt and feel for =
groove worn where the U bolt passes over axle tube. Buy a pair of the =
wear plates if there is any groove, and not a bad thing to have them =
installed anyway. MGA and later had them on the axles from new.
    Best of luck finding it--this can be a challenge. I have been =
chasing it for a decade.
  Bob


  ---------- Original Message ----------
  From: Mike Duvall via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
  To: mgs@autox.team.net
  Subject: [Mgs] backing up shudder
  Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2015 12:28:20 -0500


  Both my A and TD started jumping or shuddering when backing up.    I =
had this happen before-  seems odd it started again on 2 cars but =
coincidence I'm sure.

  I searched and can't find much so I want to know if I'm missing =
anything.

  Possible:
  front engine mount
  transmission mount  (do I have to take it out to see on the TD?)=20
  axle U bolts=20

  TD engine stabilizer

  TD clutch (seems like might have been the problem last time but what =
do I adjust here)


  Other ideas or what am I missing?   I read pilot bearings but were =
replaced so I doubt much wear.=20

  Thanks, Mike
  _______________________________________________

  Mgs@autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----


  _______________________________________________

  Mgs@autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulhunt73@virginmedia.com

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Any above plus oil on the clutch.&nbsp; Mine started =
only=20
after clutch replacement, which was annoying, and has been doing it for=20
50k.&nbsp; I&nbsp; just use higher revs then I normally would when =
slipping for=20
reversing, others say lower revs reduces it.&nbsp; C'est la =
vie.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dmgs@autox.team.net =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgbob--- via=20
  Mgs</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dmike@duvallvideo.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:mike@duvallvideo.com">mike@duvallvideo.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Cc:</B> <A =
title=3Dmgs@autox.team.net=20
  href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, June 20, 2015 =
9:39=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Mgs] backing up=20
  shudder</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp; Welcome back to the judder club. &nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp; In the TD, causes can be all you listed:</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp; &nbsp;Front mount-possible, I suppose you could use a pry =
bar=20
  gently and life engine to see if rubber has un-stuck from the metal. =
Originals=20
  lasted 50 years. Today's improved replacements about 1/5 of that. Lift =
gently,=20
  though, as you don't want to cause separation if it has not already=20
  happened.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp; Stabiliser-check that movement of engine is about 1/8 =
inch, which=20
  is about the "give" in the rubbers. If more, look further, to =
adjusting the=20
  bar if there is evidence that the turnbuckle has moved (not likely), =
and=20
  inspection of the rubbers.&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp; Transmission mount--from underneath, push up and pull down =
on the=20
  gearbox tail or at the flange. There should not be much movement. If =
the=20
  rubbers are bulged and cracked, they may be bad. Changing them is not=20
  complicated, but can be time taking and messy. Oil mess from engine is =
usual=20
  cause of their deterioration, though. No need to remove it; just shove =
the=20
  gearbox around to judge free movement, of which there should be less =
than 1/8=20
  inch.&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp; Axle U bolts--the usual cause. If you have not already =
installed=20
  those wear plates on top of the axle, remove one bolt and feel for =
groove worn=20
  where the U bolt passes over axle tube. Buy a pair of the wear plates =
if there=20
  is any groove, and not a bad thing to have them installed anyway. MGA =
and=20
  later had them on the axles from new.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp; Best of luck finding it--this can be a challenge. I have =
been=20
  chasing it for a decade.</DIV>
  <DIV>Bob</DIV>
  <DIV><BR><BR>---------- Original Message ----------<BR>From: Mike =
Duvall via=20
  Mgs &lt;mgs@autox.team.net&gt;<BR>To: mgs@autox.team.net<BR>Subject: =
[Mgs]=20
  backing up shudder<BR>Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2015 12:28:20 =
-0500<BR><BR><BR>Both my=20
  A and TD started jumping or shuddering when backing up. =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I=20
  had this happen before- &nbsp;seems odd it started again on 2 cars but =

  coincidence I=92m sure.<BR><BR>I searched and can=92t find much so I =
want to know=20
  if I=92m missing anything=85<BR><BR>Possible:<BR>front engine=20
  mount<BR>transmission mount &nbsp;(do I have to take it out to see on =
the TD?)=20
  <BR>axle U bolts <BR><BR>TD engine stabilizer<BR><BR>TD clutch (seems =
like=20
  might have been the problem last time but what do I adjust=20
  here)<BR><BR><BR>Other ideas or what am I missing? &nbsp;&nbsp;I read =
pilot=20
  bearings but were replaced so I doubt much wear. <BR><BR>Thanks,=20
  =
Mike<BR>_______________________________________________<BR><BR>Mgs@autox.=
team.net<BR>Donate:=20
  http://www.team.net/donate.html<BR>Suggested annual donation=20
  &nbsp;$12.75<BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<BR>Forums:=20
  http://www.team.net/forums<BR>Unsubscribe:=20
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbob@juno.com
  <P></P>
  <P>
  <HR>

  =
<P></P>_______________________________________________<BR><BR>Mgs@autox.t=
eam.net<BR>Donate:=20
  http://www.team.net/donate.html<BR>Suggested annual donation&nbsp;=20
  $12.75<BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<BR>Forums:=20
  http://www.team.net/forums<BR>Unsubscribe:=20
  =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulhunt73@virginmedia.com<BR><=
/DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

--===============1854938287875091491==--

