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Subject: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Returning to our story.. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs was that the
inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the single-chamfered spacer
between them by pressing the bearings in. That makes the three pieces
essentially one, strengthing the three into one, eliminating any side forces
on the bearings. I took my two spindles and associated bearings and center
spacer to the machine shop. Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its
proper placement and I agree. He said the solution was a new spindle and
bearings. Ok. The second spindle, however, is a different story: he pressed
the two bearing in to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was
flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don't
understand this problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick spacer
that I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is this supposed to be
inside??

 

At this point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and bearings.
Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:<)++++

 

TIA,

 

Clayton


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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Returning to our story&#8230;. The consensus for the =
wire wheel hubs was that the inner and outer bearings were to tightly =
crimp the single-chamfered spacer between them by pressing the bearings =
in. That makes the three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three =
into one, eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my two =
spindles and associated bearings and center spacer to the machine shop. =
Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its proper placement and I =
agree. He said the solution was a new spindle and bearings. Ok. The =
second spindle, however, is a different story: he pressed the two =
bearing in to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was =
flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He and I =
don&#8217;t understand this problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter =
inch thick spacer that I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is =
this supposed to be inside??<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>At this =
point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and bearings. =
Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:&lt;)++++<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>TIA,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Clayton<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  2 14:38:21 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <37D4B2F8-693E-4B31-9B46-76793A68B5C9@sonic.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2015 13:37:48 -0700
Thread-Index: AQIc6l1NHAOmoi3pvH7M1zRg9rAz5AIgqR7znR8zXxA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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I don=E2=80=99t know what it would be from, but I don=E2=80=99t think it =
is. These are knock-off wirewheels  with left and right hand threads. =
They look like the ones in the manual and on Moss.

=20

crk

=20

From: Max Heim [mailto:mvheim@sonic.net]=20
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2015 1:02 PM
To: crk@godblessthe.us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

=20

That hub is from a different car?

=20

--

Max Heim

'66 MGB GHN3L76149

If you're near Menlo Park, CA,

it's the primer red one with chrome wires

And now 67 MGB GHN3U137949G

Old English White, off-premises for restoration

=20

On Jul 2, 2015, at 12:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =

=20

Returning to our story=E2=80=A6. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs =
was that the inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the =
single-chamfered spacer between them by pressing the bearings in. That =
makes the three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three into one, =
eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my two spindles and =
associated bearings and center spacer to the machine shop. Guy says that =
the outer bearing was loose in its proper placement and I agree. He said =
the solution was a new spindle and bearings. Ok. The second spindle, =
however, is a different story: he pressed the two bearing in to their =
limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was flopping around inside, =
absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don=E2=80=99t understand this =
problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick spacer that I read =
as being outside of the bearings. Or is this supposed to be inside??

=20

At this point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and =
bearings. Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:<)++++

=20

TIA,

=20

Clayton

_______________________________________________

Archive:  <http://www.team.net/archive> http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  <http://www.team.net/forums> http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net> =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net

=20


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>I don=E2=80=99t know what it would be from, but I don=E2=80=99t think =
it is. These are knock-off wirewheels=C2=A0 with left and right hand =
threads. They look like the ones in the manual and on =
Moss.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>crk<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Max Heim [mailto:mvheim@sonic.net] <br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, July 02, =
2015 1:02 PM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: =
[Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension =
issues<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>That hub is =
from a different car?<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>--<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div=
><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>Max =
Heim<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>'66 MGB =
GHN3L76149<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>If you're near Menlo Park, =
CA,<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>it's the primer red one with =
chrome wires<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>And now 67 MGB =
GHN3U137949G<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>Old English White, off-premises =
for restoration<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On Jul 2, 2015, at 12:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Returning to =
our story=E2=80=A6. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs was that the =
inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the single-chamfered =
spacer between them by pressing the bearings in. That makes the three =
pieces essentially one, strengthing the three into one, eliminating any =
side forces on the bearings. I took my two spindles and associated =
bearings and center spacer to the machine shop. Guy says that the outer =
bearing was loose in its proper placement and I agree. He said the =
solution was a new spindle and bearings. Ok. The second spindle, =
however, is a different story: he pressed the two bearing in to their =
limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was flopping around inside, =
absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don=E2=80=99t understand this =
problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick spacer that I read =
as being outside of the bearings. Or is this supposed to be =
inside??<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&nbsp;<o:p></=
o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>At this =
point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and bearings. =
Fortunately, Moss has the parts on =
sale:&lt;)++++<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&nbsp;<o:p></=
o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>TIA,<o:p></o:=
p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&nbsp;<o:p></=
o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Clayton<o:p><=
/o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif'>______________=
_________________________________<br><br></span><a =
href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net"><span =
style=3D'font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#954F72'>=
Mgs@autox.team.net</span></a><span =
style=3D'font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif'><br>Donate:<sp=
an class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span></span><a =
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  3 10:16:59 2015
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To: crk@godblessthe.us, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Sounds like you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings is 
set by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the spacer.  
The more shim thickness, the less end play and vice-versa. The shims 
come in various thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to combine i 
order to arrive at the proper end play.

Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.

CR

On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>
> Returning to our story…. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs was 
> that the inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the 
> single-chamfered spacer between them by pressing the bearings in. That 
> makes the three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three into 
> one, eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my two 
> spindles and associated bearings and center spacer to the machine 
> shop. Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its proper 
> placement and I agree. He said the solution was a new spindle and 
> bearings. Ok. The second spindle, however, is a different story: he 
> pressed the two bearing in to their limit shoulders and the inner 
> spacer still was flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in 
> place. He and I don’t understand this problem. Any insight??? There is 
> a quarter inch thick spacer that I read as being outside of the 
> bearings. Or is this supposed to be inside??
>
> At this point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and 
> bearings. Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:<)++++
>
> TIA,
>
> Clayton
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com


--------------080304040107040303050702
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      http-equiv="Content-Type">
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    Sounds like you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings
    is set by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the
    spacer.  The more shim thickness, the less end play and vice-versa. 
    The shims come in various thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to
    combine i order to arrive at the proper end play.<br>
    <br>
    Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.<br>
    <br>
    CR<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood
      via Mgs wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us"
      type="cite">
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal">Returning to our story…. The consensus for
          the wire wheel hubs was that the inner and outer bearings were
          to tightly crimp the single-chamfered spacer between them by
          pressing the bearings in. That makes the three pieces
          essentially one, strengthing the three into one, eliminating
          any side forces on the bearings. I took my two spindles and
          associated bearings and center spacer to the machine shop. Guy
          says that the outer bearing was loose in its proper placement
          and I agree. He said the solution was a new spindle and
          bearings. Ok. The second spindle, however, is a different
          story: he pressed the two bearing in to their limit shoulders
          and the inner spacer still was flopping around inside,
          absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don’t understand
          this problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick
          spacer that I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is
          this supposed to be inside??<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">At this point, it looks like I will be
          ordering both spindle and bearings. Fortunately, Moss has the
          parts on sale:&lt;)++++<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">TIA,<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Clayton<o:p></o:p></p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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Unsubscribe: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com</a>
</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  3 10:55:12 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2015 09:55:19 -0700
Thread-Index: AQIc6l1NHAOmoi3pvH7M1zRg9rAz5AGQxRqUnSUGYLA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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I believe there are no shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, according
to a previous post from someone. I've got the manual and I didn't see
anything about shims. The slop on that inner spacer is around 3/8 inch,
unlikely such a large shim requirement.

 

Clayton

 

From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM
To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

 

Sounds like you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings is set
by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the spacer.  The more
shim thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.  The shims come in various
thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to combine i order to arrive at the
proper end play.

Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.

CR

On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:

Returning to our story.. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs was that the
inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the single-chamfered spacer
between them by pressing the bearings in. That makes the three pieces
essentially one, strengthing the three into one, eliminating any side forces
on the bearings. I took my two spindles and associated bearings and center
spacer to the machine shop. Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its
proper placement and I agree. He said the solution was a new spindle and
bearings. Ok. The second spindle, however, is a different story: he pressed
the two bearing in to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was
flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don't
understand this problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick spacer
that I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is this supposed to be
inside??

 

At this point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and bearings.
Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:<)++++

 

TIA,

 

Clayton






_______________________________________________
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com

 


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=3Dwhite =
lang=3DEN-US link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I believe there are no shims on the MGA like =
there are on the MGB, according to a previous post from someone. =
I&#8217;ve got the manual and I didn&#8217;t see anything about shims. =
The slop on that inner spacer is around 3/8 inch, unlikely such a large =
shim requirement.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson =
[mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; =
mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 =
suspension issues<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Sounds like you've left the shims =
out.&nbsp; The end play of the bearings is set by the thickness of the =
shims between the bearings and the spacer.&nbsp; The more shim =
thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.&nbsp; The shims come in =
various thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to combine i order to =
arrive at the proper end play.<br><br>Suggest you buy the factory shop =
manual and read up on it.<br><br>CR<span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Returning to our story&#8230;. The consensus for the =
wire wheel hubs was that the inner and outer bearings were to tightly =
crimp the single-chamfered spacer between them by pressing the bearings =
in. That makes the three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three =
into one, eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my two =
spindles and associated bearings and center spacer to the machine shop. =
Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its proper placement and I =
agree. He said the solution was a new spindle and bearings. Ok. The =
second spindle, however, is a different story: he pressed the two =
bearing in to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was =
flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He and I =
don&#8217;t understand this problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter =
inch thick spacer that I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is =
this supposed to be inside??<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>At this =
point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and bearings. =
Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:&lt;)++++<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>TIA,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Clayton<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></span></p><pre>____________________=
___________________________<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><=
pre><a =
href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><o:p></o:p></pre=
><pre>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Suggested annual donation&nbsp; =
$12.75<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><o:p>=
</o:p></pre><pre>Forums: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><o:p></=
o:p></pre><pre>Unsubscribe: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com">http:=
//autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com</a><o:p></o:p></pre=
></blockquote><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
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To: crk@godblessthe.us, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com> <0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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See here:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2759/4024526937_b73ecbdd94.jpg

The shims are included with item #40.

CR

On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>
> I believe there are no shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, 
> according to a previous post from someone. I’ve got the manual and I 
> didn’t see anything about shims. The slop on that inner spacer is 
> around 3/8 inch, unlikely such a large shim requirement.
>
> Clayton
>
> *From:*Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com]
> *Sent:* Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM
> *To:* crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
>
> Sounds like you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings 
> is set by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the 
> spacer.  The more shim thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.  
> The shims come in various thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to 
> combine i order to arrive at the proper end play.
>
> Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.
>
> CR
>
> On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>
>     Returning to our story…. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs was
>     that the inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the
>     single-chamfered spacer between them by pressing the bearings in.
>     That makes the three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three
>     into one, eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my
>     two spindles and associated bearings and center spacer to the
>     machine shop. Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its
>     proper placement and I agree. He said the solution was a new
>     spindle and bearings. Ok. The second spindle, however, is a
>     different story: he pressed the two bearing in to their limit
>     shoulders and the inner spacer still was flopping around inside,
>     absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don’t understand this
>     problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick spacer that
>     I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is this supposed to be
>     inside??
>
>     At this point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and
>     bearings. Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:<)++++
>
>     TIA,
>
>     Clayton
>
>
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>       
>
>
>     Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>     Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
>
>     Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
>
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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--------------040900050604030007050102
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    See here:<br>
    <br>
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2759/4024526937_b73ecbdd94.jpg">http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2759/4024526937_b73ecbdd94.jpg</a><br>
    <br>
    The shims are included with item #40.<br>
    <br>
    CR<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood
      via Mgs wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">I believe there
            are no shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, according
            to a previous post from someone. I’ve got the manual and I
            didn’t see anything about shims. The slop on that inner
            spacer is around 3/8 inch, unlikely such a large shim
            requirement.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <div>
          <div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
            1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
            <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="color:windowtext">From:</span></b><span
                style="color:windowtext"> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson
                [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com">mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com</a>] <br>
                <b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM<br>
                <b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a>; <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>
                <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622
                suspension issues<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          </div>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">Sounds like
          you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings is
          set by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the
          spacer.  The more shim thickness, the less end play and
          vice-versa.  The shims come in various thicknesses, you select
          the thicknesses to combine i order to arrive at the proper end
          play.<br>
          <br>
          Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.<br>
          <br>
          CR<span style="font-size:12.0pt"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <div>
          <p class="MsoNormal">On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via
            Mgs wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
        </div>
        <blockquote style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
          <p class="MsoNormal">Returning to our story…. The consensus
            for the wire wheel hubs was that the inner and outer
            bearings were to tightly crimp the single-chamfered spacer
            between them by pressing the bearings in. That makes the
            three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three into
            one, eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my
            two spindles and associated bearings and center spacer to
            the machine shop. Guy says that the outer bearing was loose
            in its proper placement and I agree. He said the solution
            was a new spindle and bearings. Ok. The second spindle,
            however, is a different story: he pressed the two bearing in
            to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was
            flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He
            and I don’t understand this problem. Any insight??? There is
            a quarter inch thick spacer that I read as being outside of
            the bearings. Or is this supposed to be inside??<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">At this point, it looks like I will be
            ordering both spindle and bearings. Fortunately, Moss has
            the parts on sale:&lt;)++++<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">TIA,<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Clayton<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New
              Roman&quot;,serif"><br>
              <br>
              <br>
              <o:p></o:p></span></p>
          <pre>_______________________________________________<o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre>
          <pre><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Donate: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Suggested annual donation  $12.75<o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Forums: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Unsubscribe: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
        </blockquote>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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</pre>
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To: crk@godblessthe.us, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com> <0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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--------------060304030904030803000106
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Additionally, see here: 
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/wsm/wsm_k_front_susp.pdf

Look at section KKK.3 for info on the shimming.

CR

On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>
> I believe there are no shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, 
> according to a previous post from someone. I’ve got the manual and I 
> didn’t see anything about shims. The slop on that inner spacer is 
> around 3/8 inch, unlikely such a large shim requirement.
>
> Clayton
>
> *From:*Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com]
> *Sent:* Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM
> *To:* crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
>
> Sounds like you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings 
> is set by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the 
> spacer.  The more shim thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.  
> The shims come in various thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to 
> combine i order to arrive at the proper end play.
>
> Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.
>
> CR
>
> On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>
>     Returning to our story…. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs was
>     that the inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the
>     single-chamfered spacer between them by pressing the bearings in.
>     That makes the three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three
>     into one, eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my
>     two spindles and associated bearings and center spacer to the
>     machine shop. Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its
>     proper placement and I agree. He said the solution was a new
>     spindle and bearings. Ok. The second spindle, however, is a
>     different story: he pressed the two bearing in to their limit
>     shoulders and the inner spacer still was flopping around inside,
>     absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don’t understand this
>     problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick spacer that
>     I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is this supposed to be
>     inside??
>
>     At this point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and
>     bearings. Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:<)++++
>
>     TIA,
>
>     Clayton
>
>
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>       
>
>
>     Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>     Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
>
>     Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
>
>     Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com


--------------060304030904030803000106
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
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      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
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    Additionally, see here:
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/wsm/wsm_k_front_susp.pdf">http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/wsm/wsm_k_front_susp.pdf</a><br>
    <br>
    Look at section KKK.3 for info on the shimming.<br>
    <br>
    CR<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood
      via Mgs wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
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        medium)">
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">I believe there
            are no shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, according
            to a previous post from someone. I’ve got the manual and I
            didn’t see anything about shims. The slop on that inner
            spacer is around 3/8 inch, unlikely such a large shim
            requirement.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <div>
          <div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
            1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
            <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="color:windowtext">From:</span></b><span
                style="color:windowtext"> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson
                [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com">mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com</a>] <br>
                <b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM<br>
                <b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a>; <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>
                <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622
                suspension issues<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          </div>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">Sounds like
          you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings is
          set by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the
          spacer.  The more shim thickness, the less end play and
          vice-versa.  The shims come in various thicknesses, you select
          the thicknesses to combine i order to arrive at the proper end
          play.<br>
          <br>
          Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.<br>
          <br>
          CR<span style="font-size:12.0pt"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <div>
          <p class="MsoNormal">On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via
            Mgs wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
        </div>
        <blockquote style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
          <p class="MsoNormal">Returning to our story…. The consensus
            for the wire wheel hubs was that the inner and outer
            bearings were to tightly crimp the single-chamfered spacer
            between them by pressing the bearings in. That makes the
            three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three into
            one, eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my
            two spindles and associated bearings and center spacer to
            the machine shop. Guy says that the outer bearing was loose
            in its proper placement and I agree. He said the solution
            was a new spindle and bearings. Ok. The second spindle,
            however, is a different story: he pressed the two bearing in
            to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was
            flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He
            and I don’t understand this problem. Any insight??? There is
            a quarter inch thick spacer that I read as being outside of
            the bearings. Or is this supposed to be inside??<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">At this point, it looks like I will be
            ordering both spindle and bearings. Fortunately, Moss has
            the parts on sale:&lt;)++++<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">TIA,<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Clayton<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New
              Roman&quot;,serif"><br>
              <br>
              <br>
              <o:p></o:p></span></p>
          <pre>_______________________________________________<o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre>
          <pre><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Donate: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Suggested annual donation  $12.75<o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  3 12:24:13 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com> <0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596CED9.4040408@ktc.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2015 11:24:18 -0700
Thread-Index: AQIc6l1NHAOmoi3pvH7M1zRg9rAz5AGQxRqUAl4u7+IBgxmPTJ0GFYCw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Um, Charley, that's a nice picture of a plane, but I don't think it has the
shims you speak of:<)))

 

From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 11:05 AM
To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

 

See here:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2759/4024526937_b73ecbdd94.jpg

The shims are included with item #40.

CR

On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:

I believe there are no shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, according
to a previous post from someone. I've got the manual and I didn't see
anything about shims. The slop on that inner spacer is around 3/8 inch,
unlikely such a large shim requirement.

 

Clayton

 

From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

 

Sounds like you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings is set
by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the spacer.  The more
shim thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.  The shims come in various
thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to combine i order to arrive at the
proper end play.

Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.

CR

On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:

Returning to our story.. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs was that the
inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the single-chamfered spacer
between them by pressing the bearings in. That makes the three pieces
essentially one, strengthing the three into one, eliminating any side forces
on the bearings. I took my two spindles and associated bearings and center
spacer to the machine shop. Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its
proper placement and I agree. He said the solution was a new spindle and
bearings. Ok. The second spindle, however, is a different story: he pressed
the two bearing in to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was
flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don't
understand this problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick spacer
that I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is this supposed to be
inside??

 

At this point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and bearings.
Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:<)++++

 

TIA,

 

Clayton







_______________________________________________
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com

 






_______________________________________________
 
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lang=3DEN-US link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Um, Charley, that&#8217;s a nice picture of a =
plane, but I don&#8217;t think it has the shims you speak =
of:&lt;)))<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson =
[mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 11:05 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; =
mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 =
suspension issues<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>See here:<br><br><a =
href=3D"http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2759/4024526937_b73ecbdd94.jpg">ht=
tp://farm3.static.flickr.com/2759/4024526937_b73ecbdd94.jpg</a><br><br>Th=
e shims are included with item #40.<br><br>CR<span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I believe there are no =
shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, according to a previous post =
from someone. I&#8217;ve got the manual and I didn&#8217;t see anything =
about shims. The slop on that inner spacer is around 3/8 inch, unlikely =
such a large shim requirement.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Clayton</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson [<a =
href=3D"mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com">mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com</a>] =
<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM<br><b>To:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a>; <a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:<=
/b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension =
issues</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Sounds like you've left the shims =
out.&nbsp; The end play of the bearings is set by the thickness of the =
shims between the bearings and the spacer.&nbsp; The more shim =
thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.&nbsp; The shims come in =
various thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to combine i order to =
arrive at the proper end play.<br><br>Suggest you buy the factory shop =
manual and read up on it.<br><br>CR<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Returning to our story&#8230;. The consensus for the =
wire wheel hubs was that the inner and outer bearings were to tightly =
crimp the single-chamfered spacer between them by pressing the bearings =
in. That makes the three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three =
into one, eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my two =
spindles and associated bearings and center spacer to the machine shop. =
Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its proper placement and I =
agree. He said the solution was a new spindle and bearings. Ok. The =
second spindle, however, is a different story: he pressed the two =
bearing in to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was =
flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He and I =
don&#8217;t understand this problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter =
inch thick spacer that I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is =
this supposed to be inside??<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>At this =
point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and bearings. =
Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:&lt;)++++<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>TIA,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Clayton<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman =
,serif",serif'><br><br><br><br></span><o:p></o:p></p><pre>_______________=
________________________________<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></=
pre><pre><a =
href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><o:p></o:p></pre=
><pre>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Suggested annual donation&nbsp; =
$12.75<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><o:p>=
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href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><o:p></=
o:p></pre><pre>Unsubscribe: <a =
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//autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com</a><o:p></o:p></pre=
></blockquote><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman =
,serif",serif'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></span></p><pre>____________________=
___________________________<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><=
pre><a =
href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><o:p></o:p></pre=
><pre>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Suggested annual donation&nbsp; =
$12.75<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Archive: <a =
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To: crk@godblessthe.us, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com> <0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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You might want to look at the KK.3 parts exploded view to see if you 
have all the parts in your hubs.

CR

On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>
> I believe there are no shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, 
> according to a previous post from someone. I’ve got the manual and I 
> didn’t see anything about shims. The slop on that inner spacer is 
> around 3/8 inch, unlikely such a large shim requirement.
>
> Clayton
>
> *From:*Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com]
> *Sent:* Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM
> *To:* crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
>
> Sounds like you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings 
> is set by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the 
> spacer.  The more shim thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.  
> The shims come in various thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to 
> combine i order to arrive at the proper end play.
>
> Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.
>
> CR
>
> On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>
>     Returning to our story…. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs was
>     that the inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the
>     single-chamfered spacer between them by pressing the bearings in.
>     That makes the three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three
>     into one, eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my
>     two spindles and associated bearings and center spacer to the
>     machine shop. Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its
>     proper placement and I agree. He said the solution was a new
>     spindle and bearings. Ok. The second spindle, however, is a
>     different story: he pressed the two bearing in to their limit
>     shoulders and the inner spacer still was flopping around inside,
>     absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don’t understand this
>     problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick spacer that
>     I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is this supposed to be
>     inside??
>
>     At this point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and
>     bearings. Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:<)++++
>
>     TIA,
>
>     Clayton
>
>
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>       
>
>
>     Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>     Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
>
>     Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
>
>     Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
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    You might want to look at the KK.3 parts exploded view to see if you
    have all the parts in your hubs.<br>
    <br>
    CR<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood
      via Mgs wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us"
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">I believe there
            are no shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, according
            to a previous post from someone. I’ve got the manual and I
            didn’t see anything about shims. The slop on that inner
            spacer is around 3/8 inch, unlikely such a large shim
            requirement.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <div>
          <div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
            1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
            <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="color:windowtext">From:</span></b><span
                style="color:windowtext"> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson
                [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com">mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com</a>] <br>
                <b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM<br>
                <b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a>; <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>
                <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622
                suspension issues<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          </div>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">Sounds like
          you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings is
          set by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the
          spacer.  The more shim thickness, the less end play and
          vice-versa.  The shims come in various thicknesses, you select
          the thicknesses to combine i order to arrive at the proper end
          play.<br>
          <br>
          Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.<br>
          <br>
          CR<span style="font-size:12.0pt"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <div>
          <p class="MsoNormal">On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via
            Mgs wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
        </div>
        <blockquote style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
          <p class="MsoNormal">Returning to our story…. The consensus
            for the wire wheel hubs was that the inner and outer
            bearings were to tightly crimp the single-chamfered spacer
            between them by pressing the bearings in. That makes the
            three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three into
            one, eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my
            two spindles and associated bearings and center spacer to
            the machine shop. Guy says that the outer bearing was loose
            in its proper placement and I agree. He said the solution
            was a new spindle and bearings. Ok. The second spindle,
            however, is a different story: he pressed the two bearing in
            to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was
            flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He
            and I don’t understand this problem. Any insight??? There is
            a quarter inch thick spacer that I read as being outside of
            the bearings. Or is this supposed to be inside??<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">At this point, it looks like I will be
            ordering both spindle and bearings. Fortunately, Moss has
            the parts on sale:&lt;)++++<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">TIA,<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Clayton<o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New
              Roman&quot;,serif"><br>
              <br>
              <br>
              <o:p></o:p></span></p>
          <pre>_______________________________________________<o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre>
          <pre><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Donate: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Suggested annual donation  $12.75<o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Forums: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
          <pre>Unsubscribe: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
        </blockquote>
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      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com> <0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us>
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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2015 11:32:41 -0700
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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I know I confused things a couple of weeks ago, but I have recanted: I don't
have a deluxe or twin cam, I only have a 1622 which has the regular disks up
front. From the picture that you provided, which matches my own, the regular
1600 doesn't have any shims; the deluxe does and they are part of the Dunlop
brakes.

 

crk

 

From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 11:14 AM
To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

 

Additionally, see here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/wsm/wsm_k_front_susp.pdf

Look at section KKK.3 for info on the shimming.

CR

On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:

I believe there are no shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, according
to a previous post from someone. I've got the manual and I didn't see
anything about shims. The slop on that inner spacer is around 3/8 inch,
unlikely such a large shim requirement.

 

Clayton

 

From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

 

Sounds like you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings is set
by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the spacer.  The more
shim thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.  The shims come in various
thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to combine i order to arrive at the
proper end play.

Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.

CR

On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:

Returning to our story.. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs was that the
inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the single-chamfered spacer
between them by pressing the bearings in. That makes the three pieces
essentially one, strengthing the three into one, eliminating any side forces
on the bearings. I took my two spindles and associated bearings and center
spacer to the machine shop. Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its
proper placement and I agree. He said the solution was a new spindle and
bearings. Ok. The second spindle, however, is a different story: he pressed
the two bearing in to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was
flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don't
understand this problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick spacer
that I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is this supposed to be
inside??

 

At this point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and bearings.
Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:<)++++

 

TIA,

 

Clayton







_______________________________________________
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com

 






_______________________________________________
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com

 


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=3Dwhite =
lang=3DEN-US link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I know I confused things a couple of weeks ago, =
but I have recanted: I don&#8217;t have a deluxe or twin cam, I only =
have a 1622 which has the regular disks up front. From the picture that =
you provided, which matches my own, the regular 1600 doesn&#8217;t have =
any shims; the deluxe does and they are part of the Dunlop =
brakes.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>crk<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson =
[mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 11:14 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; =
mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 =
suspension issues<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Additionally, see here: <a =
href=3D"http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/wsm/wsm_k_front_susp.pdf">http://=
mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/wsm/wsm_k_front_susp.pdf</a><br><br>Look at =
section KKK.3 for info on the shimming.<br><br>CR<span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I believe there are no =
shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, according to a previous post =
from someone. I&#8217;ve got the manual and I didn&#8217;t see anything =
about shims. The slop on that inner spacer is around 3/8 inch, unlikely =
such a large shim requirement.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Clayton</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson [<a =
href=3D"mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com">mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com</a>] =
<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM<br><b>To:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a>; <a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:<=
/b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension =
issues</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Sounds like you've left the shims =
out.&nbsp; The end play of the bearings is set by the thickness of the =
shims between the bearings and the spacer.&nbsp; The more shim =
thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.&nbsp; The shims come in =
various thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to combine i order to =
arrive at the proper end play.<br><br>Suggest you buy the factory shop =
manual and read up on it.<br><br>CR<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Returning to our story&#8230;. The consensus for the =
wire wheel hubs was that the inner and outer bearings were to tightly =
crimp the single-chamfered spacer between them by pressing the bearings =
in. That makes the three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three =
into one, eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my two =
spindles and associated bearings and center spacer to the machine shop. =
Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its proper placement and I =
agree. He said the solution was a new spindle and bearings. Ok. The =
second spindle, however, is a different story: he pressed the two =
bearing in to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was =
flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He and I =
don&#8217;t understand this problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter =
inch thick spacer that I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is =
this supposed to be inside??<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>At this =
point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and bearings. =
Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:&lt;)++++<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>TIA,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Clayton<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman =
,serif",serif'><br><br><br><br></span><o:p></o:p></p><pre>_______________=
________________________________<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></=
pre><pre><a =
href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><o:p></o:p></pre=
><pre>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  3 12:40:57 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com> <0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us>
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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2015 11:40:46 -0700
Thread-Index: AQIc6l1NHAOmoi3pvH7M1zRg9rAz5AGQxRqUAl4u7+ICCHT/up0B7gmQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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I have all of the pieces. The relevant pieces are the hub, inner spacer, and
two bearings, no shims. The hub is supposed to have shoulders so the
bearings are limited to how far they go in. What has been discussed in the
past is that the bearings should bind against the inner spacer, therefore
before one or both of the bearing are seated against the hub inner
shoulders. The machinist says he pressed the bearing until he hit the
shoulders. Therefore, the inner spacer is flopping around inside with tons
of endplay.

 

crk

 

From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 11:25 AM
To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

 

You might want to look at the KK.3 parts exploded view to see if you have
all the parts in your hubs.

CR

On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:

I believe there are no shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, according
to a previous post from someone. I've got the manual and I didn't see
anything about shims. The slop on that inner spacer is around 3/8 inch,
unlikely such a large shim requirement.

 

Clayton

 

From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

 

Sounds like you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings is set
by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the spacer.  The more
shim thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.  The shims come in various
thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to combine i order to arrive at the
proper end play.

Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.

CR

On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:

Returning to our story.. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs was that the
inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the single-chamfered spacer
between them by pressing the bearings in. That makes the three pieces
essentially one, strengthing the three into one, eliminating any side forces
on the bearings. I took my two spindles and associated bearings and center
spacer to the machine shop. Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its
proper placement and I agree. He said the solution was a new spindle and
bearings. Ok. The second spindle, however, is a different story: he pressed
the two bearing in to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was
flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don't
understand this problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick spacer
that I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is this supposed to be
inside??

 

At this point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and bearings.
Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:<)++++

 

TIA,

 

Clayton







_______________________________________________
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com

 






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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=3Dwhite =
lang=3DEN-US link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I have all of the pieces. The relevant pieces =
are the hub, inner spacer, and two bearings, no shims. The hub is =
supposed to have shoulders so the bearings are limited to how far they =
go in. What has been discussed in the past is that the bearings should =
bind against the inner spacer, therefore before one or both of the =
bearing are seated against the hub inner shoulders. The machinist says =
he pressed the bearing until he hit the shoulders. Therefore, the inner =
spacer is flopping around inside with tons of =
endplay.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>crk<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson =
[mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 11:25 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; =
mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 =
suspension issues<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>You might want to look at the KK.3 parts =
exploded view to see if you have all the parts in your =
hubs.<br><br>CR<span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I believe there are no =
shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, according to a previous post =
from someone. I&#8217;ve got the manual and I didn&#8217;t see anything =
about shims. The slop on that inner spacer is around 3/8 inch, unlikely =
such a large shim requirement.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Clayton</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson [<a =
href=3D"mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com">mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com</a>] =
<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM<br><b>To:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a>; <a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:<=
/b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension =
issues</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Sounds like you've left the shims =
out.&nbsp; The end play of the bearings is set by the thickness of the =
shims between the bearings and the spacer.&nbsp; The more shim =
thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.&nbsp; The shims come in =
various thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to combine i order to =
arrive at the proper end play.<br><br>Suggest you buy the factory shop =
manual and read up on it.<br><br>CR<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Returning to our story&#8230;. The consensus for the =
wire wheel hubs was that the inner and outer bearings were to tightly =
crimp the single-chamfered spacer between them by pressing the bearings =
in. That makes the three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three =
into one, eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my two =
spindles and associated bearings and center spacer to the machine shop. =
Guy says that the outer bearing was loose in its proper placement and I =
agree. He said the solution was a new spindle and bearings. Ok. The =
second spindle, however, is a different story: he pressed the two =
bearing in to their limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was =
flopping around inside, absolutely not crimped in place. He and I =
don&#8217;t understand this problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter =
inch thick spacer that I read as being outside of the bearings. Or is =
this supposed to be inside??<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>At this =
point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and bearings. =
Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:&lt;)++++<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>TIA,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Clayton<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman =
,serif",serif'><br><br><br><br></span><o:p></o:p></p><pre>_______________=
________________________________<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></=
pre><pre><a =
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><pre>Donate: <a =
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To: crk@godblessthe.us, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com> <0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596CED9.4040408@ktc.com> <0f5d01d0b5bd$79c90d10$6d5b2730$@godblessthe.us>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============9189896602175037914==
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Argh!  Here's the intended page:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224

I looked more carefully.  There is a different spacer, outer bearing & 
the shims for the Mk II DeLuxe & Twin Cam.

Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.  It looks like the Mk.II DeLuxe 
had a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a MGA 1600 in most of the 
manuals.  I wish Barney would check in.

CR

On 7/3/2015 1:24 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>
> Um, Charley, that’s a nice picture of a plane, but I don’t think it 
> has the shims you speak of:<)))
>
>


--------------040509050103090507000806
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    Argh!  Here's the intended page:<br>
    <br>
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224">http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224</a><br>
    <br>
    I looked more carefully.  There is a different spacer, outer bearing
    &amp; the shims for the Mk II DeLuxe &amp; Twin Cam.<br>
    <br>
    Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.  It looks like the Mk.II
    DeLuxe had a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a MGA 1600 in
    most of the manuals.  I wish Barney would check in.<br>
    <br>
    CR<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/3/2015 1:24 PM, Clayton Kirkwood
      via Mgs wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:0f5d01d0b5bd$79c90d10$6d5b2730$@godblessthe.us"
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        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">Um, Charley,
            that’s a nice picture of a plane, but I don’t think it has
            the shims you speak of:&lt;)))<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <br>
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    <br>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  3 14:40:19 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com> <0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us>
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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2015 13:39:51 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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Yep. From what I've learned here, one of the big differences between a 1600
and 1622 MkI and MkII v. the deluxe and twin cam, is the brakes. Up front,
the deluxe and twin cam have the Dunlop braking which do require the shims.
It isn't shown in the picture you quoted, but below in the listing, there
are shims listed for the deluxe and twin cam.

 

crk

 

From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 1:12 PM
To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

 

Argh!  Here's the intended page:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224

I looked more carefully.  There is a different spacer, outer bearing & the
shims for the Mk II DeLuxe & Twin Cam.

Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.  It looks like the Mk.II DeLuxe had
a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a MGA 1600 in most of the manuals.
I wish Barney would check in.

CR

On 7/3/2015 1:24 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:

Um, Charley, that's a nice picture of a plane, but I don't think it has the
shims you speak of:<)))

 

 

 


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lang=3DEN-US link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Yep. From what I&#8217;ve learned here, one of =
the big differences between a 1600 and 1622 MkI and MkII v. the deluxe =
and twin cam, is the brakes. Up front, the deluxe and twin cam have the =
Dunlop braking which do require the shims. It isn&#8217;t shown in the =
picture you quoted, but below in the listing, there are shims listed for =
the deluxe and twin cam.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>crk<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson =
[mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 1:12 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; =
mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 =
suspension issues<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Argh!&nbsp; Here's the intended =
page:<br><br><a =
href=3D"http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=3D2=
9224">http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=3D292=
24</a><br><br>I looked more carefully.&nbsp; There is a different =
spacer, outer bearing &amp; the shims for the Mk II DeLuxe &amp; Twin =
Cam.<br><br>Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.&nbsp; It looks like =
the Mk.II DeLuxe had a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a MGA =
1600 in most of the manuals.&nbsp; I wish Barney would check =
in.<br><br>CR<span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 7/3/2015 1:24 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Um, Charley, =
that&#8217;s a nice picture of a plane, but I don&#8217;t think it has =
the shims you speak of:&lt;)))</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
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Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></blockquote><p =
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Roman",serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div></body></html>
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Date: Fri, 03 Jul 2015 15:41:11 -0600
To: crk@godblessthe.us,<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com>
 <0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596CED9.4040408@ktc.com>
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 {sentby:smtp auth 64.134.236.55 authed with barneymg@mgaguru.com}
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Barney Gaylord via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2844691334899005259==
	boundary="=====================_433658968==.ALT"

--=====================_433658968==.ALT

As requested, checking in.

The MGA Twin Cam cars and the "Deluxe" cars  with pin drive steel 
wheels and Dunlop all wheel disc brakes use tapered rolller bearings 
up front and do require shims.

The MGA 1500, 1600 and 1600-MK-II with Lockheed brakes all use ball 
bearings in the front hubs.  These do not use shims.  Distance 
between shoulders in the rotating hub is eactly same as length of the 
inner race spacer.  This holds inner and outer bearing races exactly 
same distance apart when the spindle nut is tight.  Internal bearing 
clearance is then a function of quality of construction of the ball 
bearings.  If the bearings are loose they need to be replaced.  If 
the outer races get loose in the rotating hub thebn the hub needs to 
be replaced.  If wear in the hub bore is not too bad, you might set 
the bearings into the hub with Loctite 620 bearing set adhesive.  The 
adhesive may require heat for future disassembly.

With inner race spacer in place, and both bearings pressed in with 
outer races firmly against the hub shoulders, the inner races should 
touch the spacer.  Since there is a bit of internal clearance in the 
bearings, the spacer may move around.  If you squeeze the inner races 
together with the spacer, this shoud hold the spacer in 
suspension.  If there is clearance between inner races and the spacer 
when pressed together, then there is a mismatch of parts (spacer 
length not matching distance between shoulders of the hub).

I don't have parts in hand to measure at the moment.  Perhaps someone 
can measure and post length of the inner race spacer for reference.

Barney (in Utah today).



At 01:39 PM 7/3/2015 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>....
>Yep. From what I've learned here, one of the big differences between 
>a 1600 and 1622 MkI and MkII v. the deluxe and twin cam, is the 
>brakes. Up front, the deluxe and twin cam have the Dunlop braking 
>which do require the shims. It isn't shown in the picture you 
>quoted, but below in the listing, there are shims listed for the 
>deluxe and twin cam.
>
>crk


>From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com]
>Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 1:12 PM
>To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
>
>.... Here's the intended page:
><http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224>http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224
>
>I looked more carefully.  There is a different spacer, outer bearing 
>& the shims for the Mk II DeLuxe & Twin Cam.
>
>Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.  It looks like the Mk.II 
>DeLuxe had a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a MGA 1600 in 
>most of the manuals.  I wish Barney would check in.
>
>CR

--=====================_433658968==.ALT

<html>
<body>
As requested, checking in.<br><br>
The MGA Twin Cam cars and the &quot;Deluxe&quot; cars&nbsp; with pin
drive steel wheels and Dunlop all wheel disc brakes use tapered rolller
bearings up front and do require shims.<br><br>
The MGA 1500, 1600 and 1600-MK-II with Lockheed brakes all use ball
bearings in the front hubs.&nbsp; These do not use shims.&nbsp; Distance
between shoulders in the rotating hub is eactly same as length of the
inner race spacer.&nbsp; This holds inner and outer bearing races exactly
same distance apart when the spindle nut is tight.&nbsp; Internal bearing
clearance is then a function of quality of construction of the ball
bearings.&nbsp; If the bearings are loose they need to be replaced.&nbsp;
If the outer races get loose in the rotating hub thebn the hub needs to
be replaced.&nbsp; If wear in the hub bore is not too bad, you might set
the bearings into the hub with Loctite 620 bearing set adhesive.&nbsp;
The adhesive may require heat for future disassembly.<br><br>
With inner race spacer in place, and both bearings pressed in with outer
races firmly against the hub shoulders, the inner races should touch the
spacer.&nbsp; Since there is a bit of internal clearance in the bearings,
the spacer may move around.&nbsp; If you squeeze the inner races together
with the spacer, this shoud hold the spacer in suspension.&nbsp; If there
is clearance between inner races and the spacer when pressed together,
then there is a mismatch of parts (spacer length not matching distance
between shoulders of the hub).<br><br>
I don't have parts in hand to measure at the moment.&nbsp; Perhaps
someone can measure and post length of the inner race spacer for
reference.<br><br>
Barney (in Utah today).<br><br>
<br><br>
At 01:39 PM 7/3/2015 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">....<br>
Yep. From what I’ve learned here, one of the big differences between a
1600 and 1622 MkI and MkII v. the deluxe and twin cam, is the brakes. Up
front, the deluxe and twin cam have the Dunlop braking which do require
the shims. It isn’t shown in the picture you quoted, but below in the
listing, there are shims listed for the deluxe and twin cam.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
crk</blockquote><br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><b>From:</b> Charley &amp; Peggy
Robinson
[<a href="mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com" eudora="autourl">
mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com</a>] <br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 1:12 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues<br>
&nbsp;<br>
....  Here's the intended page:<br>
<a href="http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224">
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224</a>
<br><br>
I looked more carefully.&nbsp; There is a different spacer, outer bearing
&amp; the shims for the Mk II DeLuxe &amp; Twin Cam.<br><br>
Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.&nbsp; It looks like the Mk.II
DeLuxe had a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a MGA 1600 in most
of the manuals.&nbsp; I wish Barney would check in.<br><br>
CR</blockquote></body>
</html>

--=====================_433658968==.ALT--


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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2015 15:17:23 -0700
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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The car=E2=80=99s been running for years. What started all of this is at =
high highway speeds, I=E2=80=99d get a bit of shimmy and knocking. In =
the Land Rover West Coast list, I got infected with Nigel=E2=80=99s =
disease, whereby if I have a problem and go to fix it, another problem =
presents itself ad infinitum. So I took the knock off wire wheels off =
and bought a complete suspension kit from Moss. To put some of the new =
parts on, I had to remove the hub (specifically for the new oil seal). =
In doing that, one hub came off with both bearings attached to the hub =
with the spacer inside flopping around. This is the side the machinist =
pressed the bearings in until the hit the =E2=80=9Csupposed=E2=80=9D =
shoulder inside the hub. After he was done, the inner spacer still =
flopped around. The other hub came off with the inner bearing staying =
with the spindle. He started to press this inner bearing back in, but it =
was sloppy and kind of slipped in, and therefore I have to buy a new hub =
and bits. The manual says that the bearing may not come out with the =
hub. It also says that the bearings shouldn=E2=80=99t be removed unless =
absolutely necessary as it causes wear as the bearing come in and out. =
In the process, I found that neither front brake caliper seemed to work: =
the pistons wouldn=E2=80=99t move manually and trying to move them =
deeper was too difficult. The whole cylinder looked kind of welded to =
the piston, the disk looked like it hadn=E2=80=99t seen action on either =
side. I then also measured the thickness and it is under spec, so new =
parts all around for brakes. Then the top and bottom swivels =
weren=E2=80=99t wide enough, when trying to press out those bearing, so =
let=E2=80=99s buy some really expensive swivels. Nigel=E2=80=99s =
disease: find one problem and then find more, and more=E2=80=A6

=20

Clayton

=20

From: Max Heim [mailto:mvheim@sonic.net]=20
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 1:03 PM
To: crk@godblessthe.us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

=20

I have to concur with your lack of confidence in this machinist. But =
I=E2=80=99m struck by the fact that the problem manifests differently on =
either side. That=E2=80=99s why I asked if you might possibly have =
mismatched parts. Was this a running car? What was the symptom that made =
you disassemble the hubs?

=20

=20

--

Max Heim

'66 MGB GHN3L76149

If you're near Menlo Park, CA,

it's the primer red one with chrome wires

And now 67 MGB GHN3U137949G

Old English White, off-premises for restoration

=20

On Jul 3, 2015, at 12:23 PM, Clayton Kirkwood <crk@godblessthe.us =

=20

I took both sides in to the machinist; one side had a bearing in but the =
other bearing came out along with the then free inner spacer with the =
chamfered end. The other hub came out intact, but the inner spacer was =
flopping around between the bearings. The first hub, he pressed the =
bearings back in fully to the shoulder, so he says, but the inner spacer =
was still floppy inside. On the second hub, he inserted the inner spacer =
and then tried to press in the free bearing but it wasn=E2=80=99t snug: =
the bearing was easily slipping in and out of the hub. He said this hub =
needed to be completely replaced. I don=E2=80=99t have the greatest =
confidence in this guy, I don=E2=80=99t know if he tried to press this =
second bearing in all the way where it may be snug, or he may have just =
inserted the bearing into the hub and initially it was loose and he =
assumed pressing the bearing in all the way would still be loose. Since =
this bearing came out when I removed the hub from the spindle, I think =
it reasonable that it wasn=E2=80=99t going to be tight all the way in on =
the spindle, otherwise, it would have stayed in the hub.

So one side the bearing won=E2=80=99t go up tight to the inner spacer, =
and the second side=E2=80=99s bearing won=E2=80=99t press in tight in =
the hub.

=20

crk

=20

From: Max Heim [mailto:mvheim@sonic.net]=20
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

=20

You mention a second spindle. Are you saying that this problem only =
exists on one side?

=20

--

Max Heim

'66 MGB GHN3L76149

If you're near Menlo Park, CA,

it's the primer red one with chrome wires

And now 67 MGB GHN3U137949G

Old English White, off-premises for restoration

=20

On Jul 3, 2015, at 11:40 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs < =

=20

I have all of the pieces. The relevant pieces are the hub, inner spacer, =
and two bearings, no shims. The hub is supposed to have shoulders so the =
bearings are limited to how far they go in. What has been discussed in =
the past is that the bearings should bind against the inner spacer, =
therefore before one or both of the bearing are seated against the hub =
inner shoulders. The machinist says he pressed the bearing until he hit =
the shoulders. Therefore, the inner spacer is flopping around inside =
with tons of endplay.

=20

crk

=20

mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com]=20
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

=20

You might want to look at the KK.3 parts exploded view to see if you =
have all the parts in your hubs.

CR

On 7/3/2015 11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:

I believe there are no shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, =
according to a previous post from someone. I=E2=80=99ve got the manual =
and I didn=E2=80=99t see anything about shims. The slop on that inner =
spacer is around 3/8 inch, unlikely such a large shim requirement.

=20

Clayton

=20

mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com]=20
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

=20

Sounds like you've left the shims out.  The end play of the bearings is =
set by the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the spacer.  =
The more shim thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.  The shims =
come in various thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to combine i =
order to arrive at the proper end play.

Suggest you buy the factory shop manual and read up on it.

CR

On 7/2/2015 2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:

Returning to our story=E2=80=A6. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs =
was that the inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the =
single-chamfered spacer between them by pressing the bearings in. That =
makes the three pieces essentially one, strengthing the three into one, =
eliminating any side forces on the bearings. I took my two spindles and =
associated bearings and center spacer to the machine shop. Guy says that =
the outer bearing was loose in its proper placement and I agree. He said =
the solution was a new spindle and bearings. Ok. The second spindle, =
however, is a different story: he pressed the two bearing in to their =
limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was flopping around inside, =
absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don=E2=80=99t understand this =
problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick spacer that I read =
as being outside of the bearings. Or is this supposed to be inside??

=20

At this point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and =
bearings. Fortunately, Moss has the parts on sale:<)++++

=20

TIA,

=20

Clayton









_______________________________________________
=20
Archive:  <http://www.team.net/archive> http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  <http://www.team.net/forums> http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com> =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com

=20








_______________________________________________
=20
Archive:  <http://www.team.net/archive> http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  <http://www.team.net/forums> http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com> =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com

=20

_______________________________________________

Archive:  <http://www.team.net/archive> http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  <http://www.team.net/forums> http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net> =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net

=20


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>The car=E2=80=99s been running for years. What started all of this is =
at high highway speeds, I=E2=80=99d get a bit of shimmy and knocking. In =
the Land Rover West Coast list, I got infected with Nigel=E2=80=99s =
disease, whereby if I have a problem and go to fix it, another problem =
presents itself ad infinitum. So I took the knock off wire wheels off =
and bought a complete suspension kit from Moss. To put some of the new =
parts on, I had to remove the hub (specifically for the new oil seal). =
In doing that, one hub came off with both bearings attached to the hub =
with the spacer inside flopping around. This is the side the machinist =
pressed the bearings in until the hit the =E2=80=9Csupposed=E2=80=9D =
shoulder inside the hub. After he was done, the inner spacer still =
flopped around. The other hub came off with the inner bearing staying =
with the spindle. He started to press this inner bearing back in, but it =
was sloppy and kind of slipped in, and therefore I have to buy a new hub =
and bits. The manual says that the bearing may not come out with the =
hub. It also says that the bearings shouldn=E2=80=99t be removed unless =
absolutely necessary as it causes wear as the bearing come in and out. =
In the process, I found that neither front brake caliper seemed to work: =
the pistons wouldn=E2=80=99t move manually and trying to move them =
deeper was too difficult. The whole cylinder looked kind of welded to =
the piston, the disk looked like it hadn=E2=80=99t seen action on either =
side. I then also measured the thickness and it is under spec, so new =
parts all around for brakes. Then the top and bottom swivels =
weren=E2=80=99t wide enough, when trying to press out those bearing, so =
let=E2=80=99s buy some really expensive swivels. Nigel=E2=80=99s =
disease: find one problem and then find more, and =
more=E2=80=A6<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Max Heim [mailto:mvheim@sonic.net] <br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, =
2015 1:03 PM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: =
[Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension =
issues<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I have to =
concur with your lack of confidence in this machinist. But I=E2=80=99m =
struck by the fact that the problem manifests differently on either =
side. That=E2=80=99s why I asked if you might possibly have mismatched =
parts. Was this a running car? What was the symptom that made you =
disassemble the hubs?<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>--<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div=
><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>Max =
Heim<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>'66 MGB =
GHN3L76149<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>If you're near Menlo Park, =
CA,<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>it's the primer red one with =
chrome wires<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>And now 67 MGB =
GHN3U137949G<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>Old English White, off-premises =
for restoration<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On Jul 3, 2015, at 12:23 PM, Clayton Kirkwood &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>I took both sides in to the machinist; one side had a bearing in but =
the other bearing came out along with the then free inner spacer with =
the chamfered end. The other hub came out intact, but the inner spacer =
was flopping around between the bearings. The first hub, he pressed the =
bearings back in fully to the shoulder, so he says, but the inner spacer =
was still floppy inside. On the second hub, he inserted the inner spacer =
and then tried to press in the free bearing but it wasn=E2=80=99t snug: =
the bearing was easily slipping in and out of the hub. He said this hub =
needed to be completely replaced. I don=E2=80=99t have the greatest =
confidence in this guy, I don=E2=80=99t know if he tried to press this =
second bearing in all the way where it may be snug, or he may have just =
inserted the bearing into the hub and initially it was loose and he =
assumed pressing the bearing in all the way would still be loose. Since =
this bearing came out when I removed the hub from the spindle, I think =
it reasonable that it wasn=E2=80=99t going to be tight all the way in on =
the spindle, otherwise, it would have stayed in the =
hub.</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>So one side the bearing won=E2=80=99t go up tight to the inner spacer, =
and the second side=E2=80=99s bearing won=E2=80=99t press in tight in =
the hub.</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>crk</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span class=3Dapple-converted-space><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&nbsp;</span>=
</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Max Heim [<a =
href=3D"mailto:mvheim@sonic.net">mailto:mvheim@sonic.net</a>]<span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><br><b>Sent:</b><span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span>Friday, July 03, 2015 12:00 =
PM<br><b>To:</b><span class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a><br><b>Subject:<=
/b><span class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span>Re: [Mgs] follow up =
on mga 1622 suspension =
issues</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>You mention a second spindle. Are you saying that this =
problem only exists on one side?<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>--</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div>=
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Max =
Heim</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>'66 MGB =
GHN3L76149</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>If you're near Menlo =
Park, CA,</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>it's the primer red =
one with chrome wires</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>And now 67 MGB =
GHN3U137949G</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Old English White, =
off-premises for =
restoration</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On Jul 3, 2015, at 11:40 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net"><span =
style=3D'color:purple'>mgs@autox.team.net</span></a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>I have all of the pieces. The relevant pieces are the hub, inner =
spacer, and two bearings, no shims. The hub is supposed to have =
shoulders so the bearings are limited to how far they go in. What has =
been discussed in the past is that the bearings should bind against the =
inner spacer, therefore before one or both of the bearing are seated =
against the hub inner shoulders. The machinist says he pressed the =
bearing until he hit the shoulders. Therefore, the inner spacer is =
flopping around inside with tons of =
endplay.</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>crk</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span class=3Dapple-converted-space><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&nbsp;</span>=
</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Charley =
&amp; Peggy Robinson [<a href=3D"mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com"><span =
style=3D'color:purple'>mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com</span></a>]<span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><br><b>Sent:</b><span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span>Friday, July 03, 2015 11:25 =
AM<br><b>To:</b><span class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us"><span =
style=3D'color:purple'>crk@godblessthe.us</span></a>;<span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net"><span =
style=3D'color:purple'>mgs@autox.team.net</span></a><br><b>Subject:</b><s=
pan class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span>Re: [Mgs] follow up on =
mga 1622 suspension =
issues</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&nbsp;</span>=
<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt;background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>You might =
want to look at the KK.3 parts exploded view to see if you have all the =
parts in your hubs.<br><br>CR</span><o:p></o:p></p><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>On 7/3/2015 =
11:55 AM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>I believe there are no shims on the MGA like there are on the MGB, =
according to a previous post from someone. I=E2=80=99ve got the manual =
and I didn=E2=80=99t see anything about shims. The slop on that inner =
spacer is around 3/8 inch, unlikely such a large shim =
requirement.</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Clayton</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span class=3Dapple-converted-space><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&nbsp;</span>=
</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Charley =
&amp; Peggy Robinson [<a href=3D"mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com"><span =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com</span></a>]<span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><br><b>Sent:</b><span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span>Friday, July 03, 2015 9:12 =
AM<br><b>To:</b><span class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us"><span =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>crk@godblessthe.us</span></a>;<span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net"><span =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>mgs@autox.team.net</span></a><br><b>Subject:</b><=
span class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span>Re: [Mgs] follow up on =
mga 1622 suspension =
issues</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&nbsp;</span>=
<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt;background:white;background-position:initia=
l initial;background-repeat:initial initial'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Sounds like =
you've left the shims out.&nbsp; The end play of the bearings is set by =
the thickness of the shims between the bearings and the spacer.&nbsp; =
The more shim thickness, the less end play and vice-versa.&nbsp; The =
shims come in various thicknesses, you select the thicknesses to combine =
i order to arrive at the proper end play.<br><br>Suggest you buy the =
factory shop manual and read up on =
it.<br><br>CR</span><o:p></o:p></p><div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>On 7/2/2015 =
2:50 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Returning to =
our story=E2=80=A6. The consensus for the wire wheel hubs was that the =
inner and outer bearings were to tightly crimp the single-chamfered =
spacer between them by pressing the bearings in. That makes the three =
pieces essentially one, strengthing the three into one, eliminating any =
side forces on the bearings. I took my two spindles and associated =
bearings and center spacer to the machine shop. Guy says that the outer =
bearing was loose in its proper placement and I agree. He said the =
solution was a new spindle and bearings. Ok. The second spindle, =
however, is a different story: he pressed the two bearing in to their =
limit shoulders and the inner spacer still was flopping around inside, =
absolutely not crimped in place. He and I don=E2=80=99t understand this =
problem. Any insight??? There is a quarter inch thick spacer that I read =
as being outside of the bearings. Or is this supposed to be =
inside??</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&nbsp;</span>=
<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>At this =
point, it looks like I will be ordering both spindle and bearings. =
Fortunately, Moss has the parts on =
sale:&lt;)++++</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&nbsp;</span>=
<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>TIA,</span><o=
:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>&nbsp;</span>=
<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Clayton</span=
><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><span style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman =
,serif",serif'><br><br><br><br><br><br></span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div>=
<pre style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial =
initial'>_______________________________________________<o:p></o:p></pre>=
<pre style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></pre><pre =
style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'><a =
href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net"><span =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>Mgs@autox.team.net</span></a><o:p></o:p></pre><pr=
e style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"><span =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>http://www.team.net/donate.html</span></a><o:p></=
o:p></pre><pre style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'>Suggested annual =
donation&nbsp; $12.75<o:p></o:p></pre><pre =
style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"><span =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>http://www.team.net/archive</span></a><o:p></o:p>=
</pre><pre style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'>Forums: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums"><span =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>http://www.team.net/forums</span></a><o:p></o:p><=
/pre><pre style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'>Unsubscribe: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com"><span=
 =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobin=
s@ktc.com</span></a><o:p></o:p></pre></blockquote><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Times New Roman =
,serif",serif'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'><br><br><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p></div></div=
><pre style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial =
initial'>_______________________________________________<o:p></o:p></pre>=
<pre style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></pre><pre =
style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'><a =
href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net"><span =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>Mgs@autox.team.net</span></a><o:p></o:p></pre><pr=
e style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"><span =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>http://www.team.net/donate.html</span></a><o:p></=
o:p></pre><pre style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'>Suggested annual =
donation&nbsp; $12.75<o:p></o:p></pre><pre =
style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"><span =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>http://www.team.net/archive</span></a><o:p></o:p>=
</pre><pre style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'>Forums: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums"><span =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>http://www.team.net/forums</span></a><o:p></o:p><=
/pre><pre style=3D'background:white;background-position:initial =
initial;background-repeat:initial initial'>Unsubscribe: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com"><span=
 =
style=3D'color:#954F72'>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobin=
s@ktc.com</span></a><o:p></o:p></pre></blockquote><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:white'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;background:whit=
e'>_______________________________________________</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif'><br><br><span =
style=3D'background:white'><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net"><span =
style=3D'color:purple'>Mgs@autox.team.net</span></a></span><br><span =
style=3D'background:white'>Donate:<span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"><span =
style=3D'color:purple'>http://www.team.net/donate.html</span></a></span><=
br><span style=3D'background:white'>Suggested annual donation =
&nbsp;$12.75</span><br><span style=3D'background:white'>Archive:<span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"><span =
style=3D'color:purple'>http://www.team.net/archive</span></a></span><br><=
span style=3D'background:white'>Forums:<span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums"><span =
style=3D'color:purple'>http://www.team.net/forums</span></a></span><br><s=
pan style=3D'background:white'>Unsubscribe:<span =
class=3Dapple-converted-space>&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net"><span=
 =
style=3D'color:purple'>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@s=
onic.net</span></a></span></span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></blockquote>=
</div></div></div></blockquote></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div></div></body></html>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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--===============1964653016496715203==--

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To: crk@godblessthe.us, mgs@autox.team.net
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
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 <5596EC72.6000104@ktc.com> <002201d0b5d0$7706e530$6514af90$@godblessthe.us>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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I found this thread on  MGE : http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2109993

Post #11 is from Barney Gaylord.  It has a link to the Dunlop brake 
section KKK.  Looks like if you have tapered roller bearings, you need 
the shims.  If the spacer in one of your hubs is rattling around 3/8", 
it may not be the right spacer.
I've been trying to help.  Sorry for the confusion on the link to the 
airplane.

CR



On 7/3/2015 3:39 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>
> Yep. From what I’ve learned here, one of the big differences between a 
> 1600 and 1622 MkI and MkII v. the deluxe and twin cam, is the brakes. 
> Up front, the deluxe and twin cam have the Dunlop braking which do 
> require the shims. It isn’t shown in the picture you quoted, but below 
> in the listing, there are shims listed for the deluxe and twin cam.
>
> crk
>
> *From:*Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com]
> *Sent:* Friday, July 03, 2015 1:12 PM
> *To:* crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
>
> Argh!  Here's the intended page:
>
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224
>
> I looked more carefully.  There is a different spacer, outer bearing & 
> the shims for the Mk II DeLuxe & Twin Cam.
>
> Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.  It looks like the Mk.II 
> DeLuxe had a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a MGA 1600 in 
> most of the manuals.  I wish Barney would check in.
>
> CR
>
> On 7/3/2015 1:24 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>
>     Um, Charley, that’s a nice picture of a plane, but I don’t think
>     it has the shims you speak of:<)))
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com


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    I found this thread on  MGE : 
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2109993">http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2109993</a><br>
    <br>
    Post #11 is from Barney Gaylord.  It has a link to the Dunlop brake
    section KKK.  Looks like if you have tapered roller bearings, you
    need the shims.  If the spacer in one of your hubs is rattling
    around 3/8", it may not be the right spacer.  <br>
    I've been trying to help.  Sorry for the confusion on the link to
    the airplane.<br>
    <br>
    CR<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/3/2015 3:39 PM, Clayton Kirkwood
      via Mgs wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:002201d0b5d0$7706e530$6514af90$@godblessthe.us"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">Yep. From what
            I’ve learned here, one of the big differences between a 1600
            and 1622 MkI and MkII v. the deluxe and twin cam, is the
            brakes. Up front, the deluxe and twin cam have the Dunlop
            braking which do require the shims. It isn’t shown in the
            picture you quoted, but below in the listing, there are
            shims listed for the deluxe and twin cam.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">crk<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <div>
          <div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
            1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
            <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="color:windowtext">From:</span></b><span
                style="color:windowtext"> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson
                [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com">mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com</a>] <br>
                <b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 1:12 PM<br>
                <b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a>; <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>
                <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622
                suspension issues<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          </div>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">Argh!  Here's
          the intended page:<br>
          <br>
          <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224">http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224</a><br>
          <br>
          I looked more carefully.  There is a different spacer, outer
          bearing &amp; the shims for the Mk II DeLuxe &amp; Twin Cam.<br>
          <br>
          Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.  It looks like the
          Mk.II DeLuxe had a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a
          MGA 1600 in most of the manuals.  I wish Barney would check
          in.<br>
          <br>
          CR<span style="font-size:12.0pt"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <div>
          <p class="MsoNormal">On 7/3/2015 1:24 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via
            Mgs wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
        </div>
        <blockquote style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">Um, Charley,
              that’s a nice picture of a plane, but I don’t think it has
              the shims you speak of:&lt;)))</span><o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D"> </span><o:p></o:p></p>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New
              Roman&quot;,serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        </blockquote>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Times New
            Roman&quot;,serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

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</pre>
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Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2015 17:54:24 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Your description is as I understand things. I did some measurements and a
few comments about them.

I used a caliper gauge with inner and outer depth as well as length
abilities, accurate to .01 inches. My depth gauge wasn't long enough to
measure the entire length of the hub but I could measure length from inner
end of hub to outer bearing pressed all the way in to the shoulder and can
provide all numbers. As follows:

Depth from outer end of hub to shoulder: 3.25

Depth from inner end of hub to inner shoulder: 1.1

Depth from inner end of hub to outer shoulder and outer bearing race: 3.125

Length of chamfered spacer: 2

 

With these numbers, I come up with total length of 3.25 + 3.125 = 6.375.
>From shoulder to shoulder the length is 6.375 - 1.1 - 3.25 =2.025. This is
slightly longer than the length of the spacer. Also, the spacer has a
chamfer and the inner race is rounded. Combined, this provides more slop.
When I had both bearings in to the shoulder the spacer flopped around with
much more than the numbers above suggest, maybe .25 inch. I couldn't
perceive much movement of the inner races from the outer races (side thrust
movement), I am sure there is enough give there, so when the nut is
tightened the washer pushes against that inner race of the outer bearing
helping to tighten things up.

I inspected the inner spacers and they didn't show any wear, the ends still
looked machined and not worn.

I know of some instances when engineers allow the outer race to rotate
freely, but I don't believe this to be one of those situation. The inside of
the both ends still have the micro machining of circles, but none of the
bearing outer races seem worn by the machining, although it is perfectly
possible that they have been very smoothly worn down allowing the movement.
The manual suggests that these bearing are supposed to be tight: don't
remove bearing unless absolutely necessary.

 

Unfortunately, I don't know what parts to replace. As you suggest below,
maybe using an adhesive will help, but I don't know what the tolerances
should be to ensure success. The one outer bearing I can get to show wear.
The one spindle I looked at showed some wear on the inner race face
especially on one side. Moss doesn't have any spindles and I am tired of
buying expensive parts.

 

Clayton

 

From: Barney Gaylord [mailto:barneymg@mgaguru.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 2:41 PM
To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

 

As requested, checking in.

The MGA Twin Cam cars and the "Deluxe" cars  with pin drive steel wheels and
Dunlop all wheel disc brakes use tapered rolller bearings up front and do
require shims.

The MGA 1500, 1600 and 1600-MK-II with Lockheed brakes all use ball bearings
in the front hubs.  These do not use shims.  Distance between shoulders in
the rotating hub is eactly same as length of the inner race spacer.  This
holds inner and outer bearing races exactly same distance apart when the
spindle nut is tight.  Internal bearing clearance is then a function of
quality of construction of the ball bearings.  If the bearings are loose
they need to be replaced.  If the outer races get loose in the rotating hub
thebn the hub needs to be replaced.  If wear in the hub bore is not too bad,
you might set the bearings into the hub with Loctite 620 bearing set
adhesive.  The adhesive may require heat for future disassembly.

With inner race spacer in place, and both bearings pressed in with outer
races firmly against the hub shoulders, the inner races should touch the
spacer.  Since there is a bit of internal clearance in the bearings, the
spacer may move around.  If you squeeze the inner races together with the
spacer, this shoud hold the spacer in suspension.  If there is clearance
between inner races and the spacer when pressed together, then there is a
mismatch of parts (spacer length not matching distance between shoulders of
the hub).

I don't have parts in hand to measure at the moment.  Perhaps someone can
measure and post length of the inner race spacer for reference.

Barney (in Utah today).



At 01:39 PM 7/3/2015 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:



....
Yep. From what I've learned here, one of the big differences between a 1600
and 1622 MkI and MkII v. the deluxe and twin cam, is the brakes. Up front,
the deluxe and twin cam have the Dunlop braking which do require the shims.
It isn't shown in the picture you quoted, but below in the listing, there
are shims listed for the deluxe and twin cam.
 
crk






From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [ mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
 
.... Here's the intended page:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224 

I looked more carefully.  There is a different spacer, outer bearing & the
shims for the Mk II DeLuxe & Twin Cam.

Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.  It looks like the Mk.II DeLuxe had
a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a MGA 1600 in most of the manuals.
I wish Barney would check in.

CR


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Your description is as I understand things. I did some measurements and =
a few comments about them.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>I used a caliper gauge with inner and outer depth as well as length =
abilities, accurate to .01 inches. My depth gauge wasn&#8217;t long =
enough to measure the entire length of the hub but I could measure =
length from inner end of hub to outer bearing pressed all the way in to =
the shoulder and can provide all numbers. As =
follows:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Depth from outer end of hub to shoulder: 3.25<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Depth from inner end of hub to inner shoulder: =
1.1<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Depth from inner end of hub to outer shoulder and outer bearing race: =
3.125<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Length of chamfered spacer: 2<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>With these numbers, I come up with total length of 3.25 + 3.125 =3D =
6.375. From shoulder to shoulder the length is 6.375 &#8211; 1.1 &#8211; =
3.25 =3D2.025. This is slightly longer than the length of the spacer. =
Also, the spacer has a chamfer and the inner race is rounded. Combined, =
this provides more slop. When I had both bearings in to the shoulder the =
spacer flopped around with much more than the numbers above suggest, =
maybe .25 inch. I couldn&#8217;t perceive much movement of the inner =
races from the outer races (side thrust movement), I am sure there is =
enough give there, so when the nut is tightened the washer pushes =
against that inner race of the outer bearing helping to tighten things =
up.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>I inspected the inner spacers and they didn&#8217;t show any wear, the =
ends still looked machined and not worn.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>I know of some instances when engineers allow the outer race to rotate =
freely, but I don&#8217;t believe this to be one of those situation. The =
inside of the both ends still have the micro machining of circles, but =
none of the bearing outer races seem worn by the machining, although it =
is perfectly possible that they have been very smoothly worn down =
allowing the movement. The manual suggests that these bearing are =
supposed to be tight: don&#8217;t remove bearing unless absolutely =
necessary.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Unfortunately, I don&#8217;t know what parts to replace. As you suggest =
below, maybe using an adhesive will help, but I don&#8217;t know what =
the tolerances should be to ensure success. The one outer bearing I can =
get to show wear. The one spindle I looked at showed some wear on the =
inner race face especially on one side. Moss doesn&#8217;t have any =
spindles and I am tired of buying expensive =
parts.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Barney Gaylord [mailto:barneymg@mgaguru.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, =
July 03, 2015 2:41 PM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; =
mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 =
suspension issues<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>As =
requested, checking in.<br><br>The MGA Twin Cam cars and the =
&quot;Deluxe&quot; cars&nbsp; with pin drive steel wheels and Dunlop all =
wheel disc brakes use tapered rolller bearings up front and do require =
shims.<br><br>The MGA 1500, 1600 and 1600-MK-II with Lockheed brakes all =
use ball bearings in the front hubs.&nbsp; These do not use shims.&nbsp; =
Distance between shoulders in the rotating hub is eactly same as length =
of the inner race spacer.&nbsp; This holds inner and outer bearing races =
exactly same distance apart when the spindle nut is tight.&nbsp; =
Internal bearing clearance is then a function of quality of construction =
of the ball bearings.&nbsp; If the bearings are loose they need to be =
replaced.&nbsp; If the outer races get loose in the rotating hub thebn =
the hub needs to be replaced.&nbsp; If wear in the hub bore is not too =
bad, you might set the bearings into the hub with Loctite 620 bearing =
set adhesive.&nbsp; The adhesive may require heat for future =
disassembly.<br><br>With inner race spacer in place, and both bearings =
pressed in with outer races firmly against the hub shoulders, the inner =
races should touch the spacer.&nbsp; Since there is a bit of internal =
clearance in the bearings, the spacer may move around.&nbsp; If you =
squeeze the inner races together with the spacer, this shoud hold the =
spacer in suspension.&nbsp; If there is clearance between inner races =
and the spacer when pressed together, then there is a mismatch of parts =
(spacer length not matching distance between shoulders of the =
hub).<br><br>I don't have parts in hand to measure at the moment.&nbsp; =
Perhaps someone can measure and post length of the inner race spacer for =
reference.<br><br>Barney (in Utah today).<br><br><br><br>At 01:39 PM =
7/3/2015 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:<br><br><o:p></o:p></p><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>....<br>Yep. From what I&#8217;ve learned here, one of =
the big differences between a 1600 and 1622 MkI and MkII v. the deluxe =
and twin cam, is the brakes. Up front, the deluxe and twin cam have the =
Dunlop braking which do require the shims. It isn&#8217;t shown in the =
picture you quoted, but below in the listing, there are shims listed for =
the deluxe and twin cam.<br>&nbsp;<br>crk<o:p></o:p></p></blockquote><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson [<a =
href=3D"mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com"> mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com</a>] =
<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 1:12 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a>; <a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:<=
/b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues<br>&nbsp;<br>.... =
Here's the intended page:<br><a =
href=3D"http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=3D2=
9224">http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=3D292=
24</a> <br><br>I looked more carefully.&nbsp; There is a different =
spacer, outer bearing &amp; the shims for the Mk II DeLuxe &amp; Twin =
Cam.<br><br>Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.&nbsp; It looks like =
the Mk.II DeLuxe had a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a MGA =
1600 in most of the manuals.&nbsp; I wish Barney would check =
in.<br><br>CR<o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div></body></html>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  3 19:19:29 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com> <0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596CED9.4040408@ktc.com> <0f5d01d0b5bd$79c90d10$6d5b2730$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596EC72.6000104@ktc.com> <002201d0b5d0$7706e530$6514af90$@godblessthe.us>
 <559729E1.5040601@ktc.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2015 18:18:34 -0700
Thread-Index: AQIc6l1NHAOmoi3pvH7M1zRg9rAz5AGQxRqUAl4u7+IBgxmPTAEI14yBATanLNoCbcNxkwHFHjndnNL13BA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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No problem. Confusion is always entertaining, especially when it has
pictures:<)))) Again, I don't have a KKK or deluxe twin cam, I have a mkII
which is a KK.

 

crk

 

From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 5:34 PM
To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

 

I found this thread on  MGE :
http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2109993

Post #11 is from Barney Gaylord.  It has a link to the Dunlop brake section
KKK.  Looks like if you have tapered roller bearings, you need the shims.
If the spacer in one of your hubs is rattling around 3/8", it may not be the
right spacer.  
I've been trying to help.  Sorry for the confusion on the link to the
airplane.

CR




On 7/3/2015 3:39 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:

Yep. From what I've learned here, one of the big differences between a 1600
and 1622 MkI and MkII v. the deluxe and twin cam, is the brakes. Up front,
the deluxe and twin cam have the Dunlop braking which do require the shims.
It isn't shown in the picture you quoted, but below in the listing, there
are shims listed for the deluxe and twin cam.

 

crk

 

From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues

 

Argh!  Here's the intended page:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29224

I looked more carefully.  There is a different spacer, outer bearing & the
shims for the Mk II DeLuxe & Twin Cam.

Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.  It looks like the Mk.II DeLuxe had
a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a MGA 1600 in most of the manuals.
I wish Barney would check in.

CR

On 7/3/2015 1:24 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:

Um, Charley, that's a nice picture of a plane, but I don't think it has the
shims you speak of:<)))

 

 

 






_______________________________________________
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com

 


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=3Dwhite =
lang=3DEN-US link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>No problem. Confusion is always entertaining, =
especially when it has pictures:&lt;)))) Again, I don&#8217;t have a KKK =
or deluxe twin cam, I have a mkII which is a KK.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>crk<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson =
[mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 5:34 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; =
mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 =
suspension issues<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>I found this thread on&nbsp; MGE :&nbsp; =
<a =
href=3D"http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2109993">http://www.mgexp.=
com/phorum/read.php?2,2109993</a><br><br>Post #11 is from Barney =
Gaylord.&nbsp; It has a link to the Dunlop brake section KKK.&nbsp; =
Looks like if you have tapered roller bearings, you need the =
shims.&nbsp; If the spacer in one of your hubs is rattling around =
3/8&quot;, it may not be the right spacer.&nbsp; <br>I've been trying to =
help.&nbsp; Sorry for the confusion on the link to the =
airplane.<br><br>CR<br><br><br><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 7/3/2015 3:39 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Yep. From what =
I&#8217;ve learned here, one of the big differences between a 1600 and =
1622 MkI and MkII v. the deluxe and twin cam, is the brakes. Up front, =
the deluxe and twin cam have the Dunlop braking which do require the =
shims. It isn&#8217;t shown in the picture you quoted, but below in the =
listing, there are shims listed for the deluxe and twin =
cam.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>crk</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:windowtext'> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson [<a =
href=3D"mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com">mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com</a>] =
<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 1:12 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:crk@godblessthe.us">crk@godblessthe.us</a>; <a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:<=
/b> Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension =
issues</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Argh!&nbsp; Here's the intended =
page:<br><br><a =
href=3D"http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=3D2=
9224">http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=3D292=
24</a><br><br>I looked more carefully.&nbsp; There is a different =
spacer, outer bearing &amp; the shims for the Mk II DeLuxe &amp; Twin =
Cam.<br><br>Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.&nbsp; It looks like =
the Mk.II DeLuxe had a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a MGA =
1600 in most of the manuals.&nbsp; I wish Barney would check =
in.<br><br>CR<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On 7/3/2015 1:24 =
PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Um, Charley, =
that&#8217;s a nice picture of a plane, but I don&#8217;t think it has =
the shims you speak of:&lt;)))</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman ,serif",serif'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman ,serif",serif'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></span></p><pre>____________________=
___________________________<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><=
pre><a =
href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><o:p></o:p></pre=
><pre>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Suggested annual donation&nbsp; =
$12.75<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><o:p>=
</o:p></pre><pre>Forums: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><o:p></=
o:p></pre><pre>Unsubscribe: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com">http:=
//autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com</a><o:p></o:p></pre=
></blockquote><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  4 05:46:18 2015
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 id oBjj1q0022Azwqi01BjjDh; Sat, 04 Jul 2015 11:43:43 +0000
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2015 11:43:42 +0000 (UTC)
To: crk@godblessthe.us
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com> <0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us>
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 <5596EC72.6000104@ktc.com> <002201d0b5d0$7706e530$6514af90$@godblessthe.us>
Thread-Topic: follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
Thread-Index: AQIc6l1NHAOmoi3pvH7M1zRg9rAz5AGQxRqUAl4u7+IBgxmPTAEI14yBATanLNqc9D6P0DufGj4T
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Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: Gordie Bird via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Guys, the differences in the deluxe/twin cam and the 1600/1622 are all in t=
he brakes (other than the motor in the twinkie). Deluxe/twinkie have dunlop=
 disks on all four corners and have a different master cyl. 1600/1622 have =
Lockheed disks up front and drums in the rear. The "deluxe" was born when M=
G discontinued the twin cam and still had a number of twin cam chassis left=
 over. They made no note at the time of which cars received the twin cam ch=
assis'.=20
The Moss catalog has a section in the back specifically for the twin cam an=
d deluxe which includes the braking system. Refer to that section to see wh=
at parts are different. I have always had slop in the spacer inside of the =
hub until the nut is tightened on my MKII. If your spindle has too much wea=
r that the inner bearing race spins on it, you may be able to repair it wit=
h a speedy sleeve.=20
HTH=20

Gordie Bird=20
'62 MGA=20


----- Original Message -----

From: "Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>=20
To: mgs@autox.team.net=20
Sent: Friday, July 3, 2015 4:39:51 PM=20
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues=20



Yep. From what I=E2=80=99ve learned here, one of the big differences betwee=
n a 1600 and 1622 MkI and MkII v. the deluxe and twin cam, is the brakes. U=
p front, the deluxe and twin cam have the Dunlop braking which do require t=
he shims. It isn=E2=80=99t shown in the picture you quoted, but below in th=
e listing, there are shims listed for the deluxe and twin cam.=20



crk=20




From: Charley & Peggy Robinson [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com]=20
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2015 1:12 PM=20
To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net=20
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues=20




Argh! Here's the intended page:=20

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=3D29224=20

I looked more carefully. There is a different spacer, outer bearing & the s=
hims for the Mk II DeLuxe & Twin Cam.=20

Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA. It looks like the Mk.II DeLuxe had =
a 1622cc engine but it's still located as a MGA 1600 in most of the manuals=
. I wish Barney would check in.=20

CR=20




On 7/3/2015 1:24 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:=20




Um, Charley, that=E2=80=99s a nice picture of a plane, but I don=E2=80=99t =
think it has the shims you speak of:<)))=20









_______________________________________________=20

Mgs@autox.team.net=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive=20
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.ne=
t=20


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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div>Guys, the differences in the deluxe/twin cam and the 1600/1622 are=
 all in the brakes (other than the motor in the twinkie).&nbsp; Deluxe/twin=
kie have dunlop disks on all four corners and have a different master cyl.&=
nbsp; 1600/1622 have Lockheed disks up front and drums in the rear.&nbsp; T=
he "deluxe" was born when MG discontinued the twin cam and still had a numb=
er of twin cam chassis left over.&nbsp; They made no note at the time of wh=
ich cars received the twin cam chassis'.<br></div><div>The Moss catalog has=
 a section in the back specifically for the twin cam and deluxe which inclu=
des the&nbsp; braking system.&nbsp; Refer to that section to see what parts=
 are different.&nbsp; I have always had slop in the spacer inside of the hu=
b until the nut is tightened on my MKII.&nbsp; If your spindle has too much=
 wear that the inner bearing race spins on it, you may be able to repair it=
 with a speedy sleeve.<br></div><div>HTH<br></div><div><br></div><div>Gordi=
e Bird<br></div><div>'62 MGA<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><hr id=
=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;te=
xt-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;">=
<b>From: </b>"Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs" &lt;mgs@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>To=
: </b>mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Sent: </b>Friday, July 3, 2015 4:39:51 PM<br=
><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues<br><div>=
<br></div><style><!--

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div.WordSection1
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--></style><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=
=3D"color:#1F497D">Yep. From what I=E2=80=99ve learned here, one of the big=
 differences between a 1600 and 1622 MkI and MkII v. the deluxe and twin ca=
m, is the brakes. Up front, the deluxe and twin cam have the Dunlop braking=
 which do require the shims. It isn=E2=80=99t shown in the picture you quot=
ed, but below in the listing, there are shims listed for the deluxe and twi=
n cam.</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D">&nbsp=
;</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D">crk</span>=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D">&nbsp;</span></p><=
div><div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt =
0in 0in 0in"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"color:windowtext">Fro=
m:</span></b><span style=3D"color:windowtext"> Charley &amp; Peggy Robinson=
 [mailto:ccrobins@ktc.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 03, 2015 1:12 PM<b=
r><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: =
[Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues</span></p></div></div><p clas=
s=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:12.=
0pt">Argh!&nbsp; Here's the intended page:<br></p><div><br></div><a href=3D=
"http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=3D29224" tar=
get=3D"_blank">http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexI=
D=3D29224</a><br><div><br></div>I looked more carefully.&nbsp; There is a d=
ifferent spacer, outer bearing &amp; the shims for the Mk II DeLuxe &amp; T=
win Cam.<br><div><br></div>Trying to find the right MGA is a PITA.&nbsp; It=
 looks like the Mk.II DeLuxe had a 1622cc engine but it's still located as =
a MGA 1600 in most of the manuals.&nbsp; I wish Barney would check in.<br><=
div><br></div>CR<span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"></span><p></p><div><p clas=
s=3D"MsoNormal">On 7/3/2015 1:24 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:</p></d=
iv><blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt"><p class=3D"M=
soNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D">Um, Charley, that=E2=80=99s a nice =
picture of a plane, but I don=E2=80=99t think it has the shims you speak of=
:&lt;)))</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D">&nb=
sp;</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-f=
amily:&quot;Times New Roman&quot;,serif">&nbsp;</span></p></blockquote><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:&quot;Times =
New Roman&quot;,serif">&nbsp;</span></p></div><br>_________________________=
______________________<br><div><br></div>Mgs@autox.team.net<br>Donate: http=
://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.75<br>Ar=
chive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br=
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mg_garage@comcast.n=
et<br></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  6 01:47:46 2015
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To: <crk@godblessthe.us>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <0df701d0b500$58889d40$0999d7c0$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596B44B.2090103@ktc.com> <0f1701d0b5b1$0b698d10$223ca730$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596CED9.4040408@ktc.com> <0f5d01d0b5bd$79c90d10$6d5b2730$@godblessthe.us>
 <5596EC72.6000104@ktc.com> <002201d0b5d0$7706e530$6514af90$@godblessthe.us>
 <007301d0b5f3$febf61a0$fc3e24e0$@godblessthe.us>
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2015 08:24:17 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] follow up on mga 1622 suspension issues
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Compare with the other side?  Or does that have the same problem?
  ----- Original Message -----=20


  Your description is as I understand things. I did some measurements =
and a few comments about them.

  ...



  Unfortunately, I don't know what parts to replace.

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"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:m =3D=20
"http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml"><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
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<BODY lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue bgColor=3D#ffffff vLink=3Dpurple>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Compare with the other side?&nbsp; Or does that have =
the same=20
problem?</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DWordSection1>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: =
11pt">Your=20
  description is as I understand things. I did some measurements and a =
few=20
  comments about them.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: =
11pt">...</SPAN></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: =
11pt"></SPAN>&nbsp;</P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri',sans-serif; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: =
11pt">Unfortunately,=20
  I don=92t know what parts to =
replace.</SPAN></P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 11 18:01:08 2015
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	<mg-mgb@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2015 17:00:11 -0700
Thread-Index: AdC8Mz1e5ynl7jAJRA2FvCnafuHHfQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Mgs] banjo axle breather dilemma
From: dcouncill via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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I am working on the rear axle of a 64 MGB. After a routine check of the =
car,
I had noticed a small oil leak from the oil seals on both sides which =
lead
me to suspect pressure buildup due to a plugged breather. First sign of
trouble was that I couldn=92t locate the breather because there wasn=92t =
one
with the hole buried under an oil/dirt buildup. I cleaned off the sludge =
and
located the breather hole and cleaned it out as best possible with the =
axle
in the car. Then I went to install Moss part 267-040 rear axle breather =
but
it wouldn=92t fit =96 too large. A check of Moss catalog shows it to be =
the
correct part for both banjo and Salisbury axles. The hole is threaded =
but
too small for a 5/16=94 bolt but too large for =BC=94. Also, the 5/16=94 =
bolt fits
just within the inner diameter of Moss part 267-040.

=20

I happen to have a couple of spare banjo rear axles so I checked them =
and
both of them have the larger holes and the Moss part fits. However, they =
are
also wire wheel banjo axles whereas the one on the 64B is for disc =
wheels.
Does anyone have an idea what thread size this early banjo axle might be
using? Or suggestions on how I can establish a vent with another part of
some kind?=20

=20

David Councill

64 B

67 BGT

72 B


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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>I am =
working on the rear axle of a 64 MGB. After a routine check of the car, =
I had noticed a small oil leak from the oil seals on both sides which =
lead me to suspect pressure buildup due to a plugged breather. First =
sign of trouble was that I couldn&#8217;t locate the breather because =
there wasn&#8217;t one with the hole buried under an oil/dirt buildup. I =
cleaned off the sludge and located the breather hole and cleaned it out =
as best possible with the axle in the car. Then I went to install Moss =
part 267-040 rear axle breather but it wouldn&#8217;t fit &#8211; too =
large. A check of Moss catalog shows it to be the correct part for both =
banjo and Salisbury axles. The hole is threaded but too small for a =
5/16&#8221; bolt but too large for =BC&#8221;. Also, the 5/16&#8221; =
bolt fits just within the inner diameter of Moss part =
267-040.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I happen to have a couple of spare banjo rear axles so =
I checked them and both of them have the larger holes and the Moss part =
fits. However, they are also wire wheel banjo axles whereas the one on =
the 64B is for disc wheels. Does anyone have an idea what thread size =
this early banjo axle might be using? Or suggestions on how I can =
establish a vent with another part of some kind? <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>David =
Councill<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>64 B<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>67 BGT<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>72 =
B<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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To: dcouncill@karamursel.org
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net, mg-mgb@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Mgs] banjo axle breather dilemma
From: mgbob--- via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6224806336297751030==

----__JWM__J7fc9f55b.7b917568S.51387d0eM
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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  The vent holes in the axles of T-series cars are protected by the stra=
p that secures brake line to the axle. It seems crude, but I can think o=
f no complaints about dirt in the axle tube.     If you can not find the=
 fitting that threads in, you might try covering the hole using a hose c=
lamp, perhaps with a piece of scotch-brite to provide a bit better air p=
ressure adjustment and dirt exclusion. =

Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: dcouncill via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>, <mg-mgb@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Mgs] banjo axle breather dilemma
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2015 17:00:11 -0700


I am working on the rear axle of a 64 MGB. After a routine check of the =
car, I had noticed a small oil leak from the oil seals on both sides whi=
ch lead me to suspect pressure buildup due to a plugged breather. First =
sign of trouble was that I couldn&rsquo;t locate the breather because th=
ere wasn&rsquo;t one with the hole buried under an oil/dirt buildup. I c=
leaned off the sludge and located the breather hole and cleaned it out a=
s best possible with the axle in the car. Then I went to install Moss pa=
rt 267-040 rear axle breather but it wouldn&rsquo;t fit &ndash; too larg=
e. A check of Moss catalog shows it to be the correct part for both banj=
o and Salisbury axles. The hole is threaded but too small for a 5/16&rdq=
uo; bolt but too large for =BC&rdquo;. Also, the 5/16&rdquo; bolt fits j=
ust within the inner diameter of Moss part 267-040.
 =

I happen to have a couple of spare banjo rear axles so I checked them an=
d both of them have the larger holes and the Moss part fits. However, th=
ey are also wire wheel banjo axles whereas the one on the 64B is for dis=
c wheels. Does anyone have an idea what thread size this early banjo axl=
e might be using? Or suggestions on how I can establish a vent with anot=
her part of some kind?
 =

David Councill
64 B
67 BGT
72 B

----__JWM__J7fc9f55b.7b917568S.51387d0eM
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<html><div>&nbsp; The vent holes in the axles of T-series cars are prote=
cted by the strap that secures brake line to the axle. It seems crude, b=
ut I can think of no complaints about dirt in the axle tube. &nbsp;&nbsp=
;</div><div>&nbsp; If you can not find the fitting that threads in, you =
might try covering the hole using a hose clamp, perhaps with a piece of =
scotch-brite to provide a bit better air pressure adjustment and dirt ex=
clusion.&nbsp;<br>Bob</div><div><br>---------- Original Message --------=
--<br>From: dcouncill via Mgs &lt;mgs@autox.team.net&gt;<br>To: &lt;mgs@=
autox.team.net&gt;, &lt;mg-mgb@yahoogroups.com&gt;<br>Subject: [Mgs] ban=
jo axle breather dilemma<br>Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2015 17:00:11 -0700<br><br=
></p><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal">I am working on the rear axle of a 64 MGB. After a routine c=
heck of the car, I had noticed a small oil leak from the oil seals on bo=
th sides which lead me to suspect pressure buildup due to a plugged brea=
ther. First sign of trouble was that I couldn&rsquo;t locate the breathe=
r because there wasn&rsquo;t one with the hole buried under an oil/dirt =
buildup. I cleaned off the sludge and located the breather hole and clea=
ned it out as best possible with the axle in the car. Then I went to ins=
tall Moss part 267-040 rear axle breather but it wouldn&rsquo;t fit &nda=
sh; too large. A check of Moss catalog shows it to be the correct part f=
or both banjo and Salisbury axles. The hole is threaded but too small fo=
r a 5/16&rdquo; bolt but too large for &frac14;&rdquo;. Also, the 5/16&r=
dquo; bolt fits just within the inner diameter of Moss part 267-040.</p>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I happen to have=
 a couple of spare banjo rear axles so I checked them and both of them h=
ave the larger holes and the Moss part fits. However, they are also wire=
 wheel banjo axles whereas the one on the 64B is for disc wheels. Does a=
nyone have an idea what thread size this early banjo axle might be using=
? Or suggestions on how I can establish a vent with another part of some=
 kind?</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">David =
Councill</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">64 B</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">67 BGT=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">72 B</p></div></html>

----__JWM__J7fc9f55b.7b917568S.51387d0eM--

--===============6224806336297751030==
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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

--===============6224806336297751030==--

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 12 12:43:27 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1436724002.9166.mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2015 14:43:25 -0400
Subject: Re: [Mgs] banjo axle breather dilemma
From: Eric J Russell via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I am working on the rear axle of a 64 MGB.

> The hole is threaded but too small for a 5/16? bolt but too large for ??.

Is it possible the old breather broke off flush with the axle housing?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 12 14:08:11 2015
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To: "'Eric J Russell'" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1436724002.9166.mgs@autox.team.net>
 <C247A7133A064BB2986320B4AB916247@EricJRussellPC>
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] banjo axle breather dilemma
From: dcouncill via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Very much possible - in this case, that was the problem. I was able to
remove it and the new breather piece is now installed.

David Councill

-----Original Message-----
From: Eric J Russell [mailto:ejrussell@mebtel.net] 
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2015 11:43 AM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Cc: dcouncill@karamursel.org
Subject: Re: [Mgs] banjo axle breather dilemma

> I am working on the rear axle of a 64 MGB.

> The hole is threaded but too small for a 5/16? bolt but too large for ??.

Is it possible the old breather broke off flush with the axle housing?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 


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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 13 15:18:42 2015
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Subject: [Mgs] 1954 MG TF Robbins Top Installation
From: Donald Joseph Toy via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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b3B0aW9ucy9tZ3MvbWhhcmNAYXV0b3gudGVhbS5uZXQK

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To: Donald Joseph Toy <dontoy@comcast.net>
Cc: MGList List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1954 MG TF Robbins Top Installation
From: "W. David Houser via Mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
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To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <143BB23B-F6F9-4A45-8E8D-3E9197436926@comcast.net>
 <D51E1868-D300-4454-9598-B6E4032986EE@tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2015 09:32:15 -0400
Importance: Normal
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1954 MG TF Robbins Top Installation
From: "S. Carr via Mgs" <mgs@autox.team.net>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 16 10:18:58 2015
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Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2015 12:15:24 -0400
To: "mgs@autox.team.net" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] 79 MGB handbrake
From: Randy Widman via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Why does it look like the way the cable is configured, only the drivers side wheel will brake, not the passenger side? It has no compensator, only a rectangular box mtg.

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 16 10:52:25 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <E7549B9B-6D91-4184-B68A-8747DB6A7AE1@bex.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2015 12:52:39 -0400
Thread-Index: AdC/4x91etIrRzg3QM6uUrM24+t9YgAA3fRg
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] 79 MGB handbrake
From: Steve Shoyer via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The rectangular box is suspended rather than bolted to the car.  Tightening
the handbrake cable basically shortens the length of the cable between the
handbrake levers on each rear brake, pulling them toward each other and
distributing the force evenly.

--Steve

-----Original Message-----
Subject: [Mgs] 79 MGB handbrake

Why does it look like the way the cable is configured, only the drivers side
wheel will brake, not the passenger side? It has no compensator, only a
rectangular box mtg.

_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 17 01:24:29 2015
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To: "Randy Widman" <riwidman@bex.net>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <E7549B9B-6D91-4184-B68A-8747DB6A7AE1@bex.net>
 <BC0D1D9B74C64E8CB9FDCF0AE0D09B1E@SteveLenovo>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2015 08:16:55 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 79 MGB handbrake
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

That 'box' should be attached to the left hand half of the axle casing by a 
rubber flap 
http://www.paulhunt73.webspace.virginmedia.com/mgb-stuff/images/handbrake2.jpg. 
The inner comes from there to the left hand brake, and that tends to pull 
the outer towards the left hand brake when the cabin lever is pulled up. 
But the 'box' also has a steel rod going to the right hand brake, so 
movement of the outer pulls that on as well, and equal force is applied to 
both brakes.

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----
> Why does it look like the way the cable is configured, only the drivers 
> side
> wheel will brake, not the passenger side? It has no compensator, only a
> rectangular box mtg.
> 
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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To: Steve Shoyer <steve@shoyer.com>, mgs@autox.team.net
Organization: Computer Helpers
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] 79 MGB handbrake
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
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That sounds intriguing. I have a '69 Tourer w/wire wheels.  The cable 
for it doesn't have a rectangular box, AIR.  The repro cable - from Moss 
yrs ago - was a tad too long.  Moss called it specification drift, fer 
Pete's sake.  The only way I've been able to keep the handbrake working 
is to keep the rear shoes pretty tight.  I wonder if I could use the 
later cable.  What does it look like?  Pics?

CR

On 7/16/2015 11:52 AM, Steve Shoyer via Mgs wrote:
> The rectangular box is suspended rather than bolted to the car.  Tightening
> the handbrake cable basically shortens the length of the cable between the
> handbrake levers on each rear brake, pulling them toward each other and
> distributing the force evenly.
>
> --Steve
>
> -

_______________________________________________

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To: <ccrobins@ktc.com>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <E7549B9B-6D91-4184-B68A-8747DB6A7AE1@bex.net>
 <BC0D1D9B74C64E8CB9FDCF0AE0D09B1E@SteveLenovo> <55A90C3E.9050503@ktc.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2015 15:42:58 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 79 MGB handbrake
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

The 'box' only applies to 77 and later MGBs.  Before that the outer ends at 
a pivoting lever on the diff casing, the inner extends to the left-hand 
wheel, and a short cable goes back from the right-hand wheel.  Other than 
that both types work the same, i.e. the end of the outer moves to a position 
where the same force is applied to both brakes when the cabin lever is 
pulled up.

I posted a link to a picture of the later system.

There were no less than 10 handbrake cables for the MGB - banjo, Mk1 tube, 
Mk2 chrome, rubber bumper to September 76, and September 76 on, and each of 
these had variations for wire wheels and stud wheels.  So plenty of scope 
for manufacturers getting it wrong.  The first four pairs all vary in length 
and the last pair has the different compensation arrangement, as well as a 
different length to most if not all of the others.  If yours is only 
slightly too long i.e. the cabin lever comes up too far and you have used up 
all the adjustment at the cabin lever end, you can clamp a spacer or 
'shortener' onto the short cable at the compensation lever, between the 
nipple and where it comes out of the trunnion on the free end of the 
compensation lever 
http://www.paulhunt73.webspace.virginmedia.com/mgb-stuff/images/handbrake.jpg

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 

> That sounds intriguing. I have a '69 Tourer w/wire wheels.  The cable for 
> it doesn't have a rectangular box, AIR. 

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To: "Osborne, Paul" <paul@ece.rochester.edu>,
 "mgs@Autox.Team.Net" <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Organization: Computer Helpers
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2015 10:07:05 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] 79 MGB handbrake
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Thanks, I have the WW cable.

CR


On 7/17/2015 9:24 AM, Osborne, Paul wrote:
> Hi,  If you have wire wheels the cable needs to be shorter, should 
> like you have the cable for steel wheels.
>
>
> paul
> Paul Osborne
> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng.
> University of Rochester
> 201 Hopeman Building RC
> Rochester NY 14627
> 585-275-5226
>
>
>
> On Jul 17, 2015, at 10:07 AM, Charley & Peggy Robinson via Mgs 
>
>> That sounds intriguing. I have a '69 Tourer w/wire wheels.  The cable 
>> for it doesn't have a rectangular box, AIR.  The repro cable - from 
>> Moss yrs ago - was a tad too long.  Moss called it specification 
>> drift, fer Pete's sake.  The only way I've been able to keep the 
>> handbrake working is to keep the rear shoes pretty tight.  I wonder 
>> if I could use the later cable.  What does it look like?  Pics?
>>
>> CR
>>
>> On 7/16/2015 11:52 AM, Steve Shoyer via Mgs wrote:
>>> The rectangular box is suspended rather than bolted to the car. 
>>>  Tightening
>>> the handbrake cable basically shortens the length of the cable 
>>> between the
>>> handbrake levers on each rear brake, pulling them toward each other and
>>> distributing the force evenly.
>>>
>>> --Steve
>>>
>>> -
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Donate: 
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=BQICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=7rdpcUL9R69rl77M69sN-qA5ybge73ASTX3jELVJW4w&s=z9m2N5RHNHKnh1pmo0DlEpMjFGHmNPoG566ij1SFNi0&e= 
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>


--------------000602020706070803050100
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<html>
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      http-equiv="Content-Type">
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  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    Thanks, I have the WW cable.<br>
    <br>
    CR<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/17/2015 9:24 AM, Osborne, Paul
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:8698D2D8-4AC4-415C-B1B2-C7357CB8D342@ur.rochester.edu"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      Hi,  If you have wire wheels the cable needs to be shorter, should
      like you have the cable for steel wheels.   
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>paul<br>
        <div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse:
            separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica;
            font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight:
            normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal;
            orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; text-indent: 0px;
            text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2;
            word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px;
            -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px;
            -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none;
            -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
            0px; ">
            <div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:
                'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; ">Paul Osborne</span><span
                class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New
                Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; "><br>
              </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:
                'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; ">Department
                of Electrical and Computer Eng.</span><span
                class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New
                Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; "><br>
              </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:
                'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; ">University
                of Rochester </span><span class="Apple-style-span"
                style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size:
                16px; "><br>
              </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:
                'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; ">201 Hopeman
                Building RC</span><span class="Apple-style-span"
                style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size:
                16px; "><br>
              </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:
                'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; ">Rochester
                NY 14627</span><span class="Apple-style-span"
                style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size:
                16px; "><br>
              </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:
                'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; ">585-275-5226</span></div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
          </span><br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
        </div>
        <br>
        <div>
          <div>On Jul 17, 2015, at 10:07 AM, Charley &amp; Peggy
            Robinson via Mgs &lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a>&gt;
            wrote:</div>
          <br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
          <blockquote type="cite">That sounds intriguing. I have a '69
            Tourer w/wire wheels.  The cable for it doesn't have a
            rectangular box, AIR.  The repro cable - from Moss yrs ago -
            was a tad too long.  Moss called it specification drift, fer
            Pete's sake.  The only way I've been able to keep the
            handbrake working is to keep the rear shoes pretty tight.  I
            wonder if I could use the later cable.  What does it look
            like?  Pics?<br>
            <br>
            CR<br>
            <br>
            On 7/16/2015 11:52 AM, Steve Shoyer via Mgs wrote:<br>
            <blockquote type="cite">The rectangular box is suspended
              rather than bolted to the car.  Tightening<br>
              the handbrake cable basically shortens the length of the
              cable between the<br>
              handbrake levers on each rear brake, pulling them toward
              each other and<br>
              distributing the force evenly.<br>
              <br>
              --Steve<br>
              <br>
              -<br>
            </blockquote>
            <br>
            _______________________________________________<br>
            <br>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 17 09:12:41 2015
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 <5E3D9E1B5D46496BAE8F28EEE7F23144@paul>
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>, mgs@autox.team.net
Organization: Computer Helpers
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2015 10:09:43 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] 79 MGB handbrake
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks,

After I get over this sinus infection I'll have to get under Her Majesty 
to see if all the bits are there.

CR

On 7/17/2015 9:42 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> The 'box' only applies to 77 and later MGBs.  Before that the outer 
> ends at a pivoting lever on the diff casing, the inner extends to the 
> left-hand wheel, and a short cable goes back from the right-hand 
> wheel.  Other than that both types work the same, i.e. the end of the 
> outer moves to a position where the same force is applied to both 
> brakes when the cabin lever is pulled up.
>
> I posted a link to a picture of the later system.
>
> There were no less than 10 handbrake cables for the MGB - banjo, Mk1 
> tube, Mk2 chrome, rubber bumper to September 76, and September 76 on, 
> and each of these had variations for wire wheels and stud wheels.  So 
> plenty of scope for manufacturers getting it wrong. The first four 
> pairs all vary in length and the last pair has the different 
> compensation arrangement, as well as a different length to most if not 
> all of the others.  If yours is only slightly too long i.e. the cabin 
> lever comes up too far and you have used up all the adjustment at the 
> cabin lever end, you can clamp a spacer or 'shortener' onto the short 
> cable at the compensation lever, between the nipple and where it comes 
> out of the trunnion on the free end of the compensation lever 
> http://www.paulhunt73.webspace.virginmedia.com/mgb-stuff/images/handbrake.jpg
>
> PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> That sounds intriguing. I have a '69 Tourer w/wire wheels.  The cable 
>> for it doesn't have a rectangular box, AIR. 
>
>

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Subject: [Mgs] Follow up to MGA 1600 MkII front end suspension suspense
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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Hello Barney.

 

I read with great interest Barney's The Nature of ROLLING ELEMENT BEARINGS
-- UT-106 at mgaguru.com, regarding the loading and tightness of bearing in
the front hub. If the Gentle Reader remembers, we were last reviewing the
problems of my hubs, bearings and various other components of suspension and
brakes. A quick recap: wire wheels with unmovable brake caliper pistons
(shot) and both inner and outer bearings a variable tightness in hubs. The
inner spacer was not tight, it wobbled around inside the hub more than the
.0125" free that adding up the numbers in the repair manual suggest (more
like .15 inch short) although the bearings were against the shoulders and
neither bearings nor inner spacer appeared worn axially. I found that the
last assembly was missing the oil seal spacers on both side. There is some
definite wear at the outer bearing spindle suggesting problems with
solidarity of bearings and inner spacers, very possibly because of missing
oil seal spacer.

 

Barney's explanation is worth the read just to better understand bearings in
general, but front MGA bearings specifically. My greatest difficulty in
reading his missive was regarding the fit of the bearings on the spindle and
inside the hubs. The suggestion is that the outer races should be press fit
or close, while the inner races on the spindle should only by hand
application tight. Barney, I don't really understand why the inner races can
be so relatively loose. Because of the relative damage to the spindle, a
noticeable wear on one side of the spindle especially on the outer bearings,
I would think that a slip fit inner race, even with axial compression, would
allow potential spinning on the spindle causing wear similar to what I am
seeing. Will I have a problem with gluing the inner races to the spindle? I
realize this may make it difficult to dismantle later but perhaps a small
amount of glue would be acceptable given the current wear? Moss doesn't have
replacement spindle knuckles, only hubs, which, with the new bearings I am
buying, may still need to be purchased.

 

At this point, I am purchasing bearings, all new spacers, oil seals, brake
calipers, pads, disks, suspension kit, swivel links, bolts and side washers
and associated swivel pins, tie rod ends. Expensive.

 

Thanks for any illumination.

 

Clayton


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Hello Barney.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I read with =
great interest Barney&#8217;s <b><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>The =
Nature of ROLLING</span></b><b><span style=3D'font-size:13.5pt'> ELEMENT =
BEARINGS -- UT-106 at mgaguru.com, </span></b>regarding the loading and =
tightness of bearing in the front hub. If the Gentle Reader remembers, =
we were last reviewing the problems of my hubs, bearings and various =
other components of suspension and brakes. A quick recap: wire wheels =
with unmovable brake caliper pistons (shot) and both inner and outer =
bearings a variable tightness in hubs. The inner spacer was not tight, =
it wobbled around inside the hub more than the .0125&#8221; free that =
adding up the numbers in the repair manual suggest (more like .15 inch =
short) although the bearings were against the shoulders and neither =
bearings nor inner spacer appeared worn axially. I found that the last =
assembly was missing the oil seal spacers on both side. There is some =
definite wear at the outer bearing spindle suggesting problems with =
solidarity of bearings and inner spacers, very possibly because of =
missing oil seal spacer.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Barney&#8217;s explanation is worth the read just to =
better understand bearings in general, but front MGA bearings =
specifically. My greatest difficulty in reading his missive was =
regarding the fit of the bearings on the spindle and inside the hubs. =
The suggestion is that the outer races should be press fit or close, =
while the inner races on the spindle should only by hand application =
tight. Barney, I don&#8217;t really understand why the inner races can =
be so relatively loose. Because of the relative damage to the spindle, a =
noticeable wear on one side of the spindle especially on the outer =
bearings,&nbsp; I would think that a slip fit inner race, even with =
axial compression, would allow potential spinning on the spindle causing =
wear similar to what I am seeing. Will I have a problem with gluing the =
inner races to the spindle? I realize this may make it difficult to =
dismantle later but perhaps a small amount of glue would be acceptable =
given the current wear? Moss doesn&#8217;t have replacement spindle =
knuckles, only hubs, which, with the new bearings I am buying, may still =
need to be purchased.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>At this =
point, I am purchasing bearings, all new spacers, oil seals, brake =
calipers, pads, disks, suspension kit, swivel links, bolts and side =
washers and associated swivel pins, tie rod ends. =
Expensive.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks for any illumination.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Clayton<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2015 18:25:04 -0700
To: crk@godblessthe.us,<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <038301d0c1ac$c4071ac0$4c155040$@godblessthe.us>
 {sentby:smtp auth 64.134.147.220 authed with barneymg@mgaguru.com}
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Follow up to MGA 1600 MkII front end suspension suspense
From: Barney Gaylord via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2740680159352331141==
	boundary="=====================_261576578==.ALT"

--=====================_261576578==.ALT

Clayton,  --

The bearing outer race must be a press fit in the hub to prevent 
relative motion and wear.  If the bearing was loose in the hub the 
outer race would "walk" (orbit) in the rotating hub causing wear in 
the hub that would increase the clearance with time.  This happened 
to my front hubs a few months ago, and it got so bad that I had to 
repace the hubs.  If you catch this situation early enough you can 
install the bearings into the hub with Loctite 620 bearing set 
adheive to prevent motion of the outer race in the hub.  For future 
service it may require heat to soften the adhesive to remove the 
bearings from the hub.

The bearing inner race can be a slip fit on the spindle.  When the 
spindle nut is tightened it pushes all of the parts tight together, 
oil seal spacer, inboard bearing inner race, inner race spacer, 
outboard bearing inner race, keyed flat washer, and the nut.  When 
all is tight the inner bearing races cannot move on the spindle.

Barney


At 03:54 PM 7/18/2015 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>....
>Hello Barney.
>
>I read with great interest Barney's The Nature of ROLLING ELEMENT 
>BEARINGS -- UT-106 at mgaguru.com, regarding the loading and 
>tightness of bearing in the front hub. If the Gentle Reader 
>remembers, we were last reviewing the problems of my hubs, bearings 
>and various other components of suspension and brakes. A quick 
>recap: wire wheels with unmovable brake caliper pistons (shot) and 
>both inner and outer bearings a variable tightness in hubs. The 
>inner spacer was not tight, it wobbled around inside the hub more 
>than the .0125" free that adding up the numbers in the repair manual 
>suggest (more like .15 inch short) although the bearings were 
>against the shoulders and neither bearings nor inner spacer appeared 
>worn axially. I found that the last assembly was missing the oil 
>seal spacers on both side. There is some definite wear at the outer 
>bearing spindle suggesting problems with solidarity of bearings and 
>inner spacers, very possibly because of missing oil seal spacer.
>
>Barney's explanation is worth the read just to better understand 
>bearings in general, but front MGA bearings specifically. My 
>greatest difficulty in reading his missive was regarding the fit of 
>the bearings on the spindle and inside the hubs. The suggestion is 
>that the outer races should be press fit or close, while the inner 
>races on the spindle should only by hand application tight. Barney, 
>I don't really understand why the inner races can be so relatively 
>loose. Because of the relative damage to the spindle, a noticeable 
>wear on one side of the spindle especially on the outer bearings,  I 
>would think that a slip fit inner race, even with axial compression, 
>would allow potential spinning on the spindle causing wear similar 
>to what I am seeing. Will I have a problem with gluing the inner 
>races to the spindle? I realize this may make it difficult to 
>dismantle later but perhaps a small amount of glue would be 
>acceptable given the current wear? Moss doesn't have replacement 
>spindle knuckles, only hubs, which, with the new bearings I am 
>buying, may still need to be purchased.
>
>At this point, I am purchasing bearings, all new spacers, oil seals, 
>brake calipers, pads, disks, suspension kit, swivel links, bolts and 
>side washers and associated swivel pins, tie rod ends. Expensive.
>
>Thanks for any illumination.
>
>Clayton

--=====================_261576578==.ALT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<body>
Clayton,&nbsp; --&nbsp; <br><br>
The bearing outer race must be a press fit in the hub to prevent relative
motion and wear.&nbsp; If the bearing was loose in the hub the outer race
would &quot;walk&quot; (orbit) in the rotating hub causing wear in the
hub that would increase the clearance with time.&nbsp; This happened to
my front hubs a few months ago, and it got so bad that I had to repace
the hubs.&nbsp; If you catch this situation early enough you can install
the bearings into the hub with Loctite 620 bearing set adheive to prevent
motion of the outer race in the hub.&nbsp; For future service it may
require heat to soften the adhesive to remove the bearings from the
hub.<br><br>
The bearing inner race can be a slip fit on the spindle.&nbsp; When the
spindle nut is tightened it pushes all of the parts tight together, oil
seal spacer, inboard bearing inner race, inner race spacer, outboard
bearing inner race, keyed flat washer, and the nut.&nbsp; When all is
tight the inner bearing races cannot move on the spindle.<br><br>
Barney<br><br>
<br>
At 03:54 PM 7/18/2015 -0700, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">....<br>
Hello Barney.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
I read with great interest Barney=92s <b>The Nature of ROLLING ELEMENT
BEARINGS -- UT-106 at mgaguru.com, </b>regarding the loading and
tightness of bearing in the front hub. If the Gentle Reader remembers, we
were last reviewing the problems of my hubs, bearings and various other
components of suspension and brakes. A quick recap: wire wheels with
unmovable brake caliper pistons (shot) and both inner and outer bearings
a variable tightness in hubs. The inner spacer was not tight, it wobbled
around inside the hub more than the .0125=94 free that adding up the
numbers in the repair manual suggest (more like .15 inch short) although
the bearings were against the shoulders and neither bearings nor inner
spacer appeared worn axially. I found that the last assembly was missing
the oil seal spacers on both side. There is some definite wear at the
outer bearing spindle suggesting problems with solidarity of bearings and
inner spacers, very possibly because of missing oil seal spacer.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
Barney=92s explanation is worth the read just to better understand bearings
in general, but front MGA bearings specifically. My greatest difficulty
in reading his missive was regarding the fit of the bearings on the
spindle and inside the hubs. The suggestion is that the outer races
should be press fit or close, while the inner races on the spindle should
only by hand application tight. Barney, I don=92t really understand why the
inner races can be so relatively loose. Because of the relative damage to
the spindle, a noticeable wear on one side of the spindle especially on
the outer bearings,&nbsp; I would think that a slip fit inner race, even
with axial compression, would allow potential spinning on the spindle
causing wear similar to what I am seeing. Will I have a problem with
gluing the inner races to the spindle? I realize this may make it
difficult to dismantle later but perhaps a small amount of glue would be
acceptable given the current wear? Moss doesn=92t have replacement spindle
knuckles, only hubs, which, with the new bearings I am buying, may still
need to be purchased.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
At this point, I am purchasing bearings, all new spacers, oil seals,
brake calipers, pads, disks, suspension kit, swivel links, bolts and side
washers and associated swivel pins, tie rod ends. Expensive.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
Thanks for any illumination.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
Clayton</blockquote></body>
</html>

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 19 02:49:31 2015
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To: <crk@godblessthe.us>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <038301d0c1ac$c4071ac0$4c155040$@godblessthe.us>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:35:05 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Follow up to MGA 1600 MkII front end suspension suspense
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Are you and Barney singing off the same hymn-sheet?  What Barney =
describes sounds the same to me as the MGB - that is the inner races are =
held tightly between a the oil seal collar on the inner part of the stub =
axle and the clamping nut and washer, with spacer and shims between =
them.  Clamped like that - to between 40 and 70 ft lb on the MGB at =
least - the inners can't spin on the axle.  But I thought it had already =
been established that your version of the MGA isn't like that anyway.

If the oil seal collar is missing, i.e. the part that the oil seal lip =
runs on, then with the MGB system (again at least) you will never get =
correct assembly of hub, bearings and axle as that takes up 1/4" or more =
of the effective length of the stub axle and hence play in the assembly.

I also suggested that if the problem was only on one side, then =
carefully dismantle the other and compare components and dimensions.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  ... I don't really understand why the inner races can be so relatively =
loose. Because of the relative damage to the spindle, a noticeable wear =
on one side of the spindle especially on the outer bearings,  I would =
think that a slip fit inner race, even with axial compression, would =
allow potential spinning on the spindle causing wear similar to what I =
am seeing.
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Are you and Barney singing off the same =
hymn-sheet?&nbsp; What=20
Barney describes sounds the same to me as the MGB - that is the inner =
races are=20
held tightly between a the oil seal collar on the inner part of the stub =
axle=20
and the clamping nut and washer, with spacer and shims between =
them.&nbsp;=20
Clamped like that - to between 40 and 70 ft lb on the MGB at least - the =
inners=20
can't spin on the axle.&nbsp; But I thought it had already =
been&nbsp;established=20
that your version of the MGA isn't like that anyway.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If the oil seal collar is missing, i.e. the part =
that the oil=20
seal lip runs on, then with the MGB system (again at least) you will =
never get=20
correct assembly of hub, bearings and axle as that takes up 1/4" or more =
of the=20
effective length of the stub axle and hence play in the =
assembly.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I also suggested that if the problem was only on one =
side,=20
then carefully dismantle the other and compare components and=20
dimensions.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black">... I=20
  don=92t really understand why the inner races can be so relatively =
loose.=20
  Because of the relative damage to the spindle, a noticeable wear on =
one side=20
  of the spindle especially on the outer bearings,&nbsp; I would think =
that a=20
  slip fit inner race, even with axial compression, would allow =
potential=20
  spinning on the spindle causing wear similar to what I am=20
seeing.</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 19 14:31:11 2015
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <038301d0c1ac$c4071ac0$4c155040$@godblessthe.us>
 <AD5FC332E6A74A509E11C92A80797127@paul>
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2015 13:31:28 -0700
Thread-Index: AQHca+BpFh4YxmNqGqcP+d/FKmvG5QHtanq0nbx+QKA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Follow up to MGA 1600 MkII front end suspension suspense
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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Yes, I think all three of us are singing in harmony. Both sides on my A were
missing the oil seal spacer. From looking at the drawing in the workbook,
and not having my spacer yet, it appears that that spacer fits in the inner
diameter of the oil seal and butts up against the brake adapter plate and
the inner bearing bearing (can't tell if it is the inner or outer race). I
am really surprised that I don't have significant damage with the oil seal
spacer missing: I would have thought the steering would be really bad.

 

The 1500, 1600, and MkII don't use shims, only the twin cam and deluxe use
those because of different kinds of bearings, as I understand it. I did
however, buy spacers because of the extended space I seem to be running.
That may resolve itself with the various new parts.

 

Clayton

 

From: PaulHunt73 [mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com] 
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2015 1:35 AM
To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Follow up to MGA 1600 MkII front end suspension suspense

 

Are you and Barney singing off the same hymn-sheet?  What Barney describes
sounds the same to me as the MGB - that is the inner races are held tightly
between a the oil seal collar on the inner part of the stub axle and the
clamping nut and washer, with spacer and shims between them.  Clamped like
that - to between 40 and 70 ft lb on the MGB at least - the inners can't
spin on the axle.  But I thought it had already been established that your
version of the MGA isn't like that anyway.

 

If the oil seal collar is missing, i.e. the part that the oil seal lip runs
on, then with the MGB system (again at least) you will never get correct
assembly of hub, bearings and axle as that takes up 1/4" or more of the
effective length of the stub axle and hence play in the assembly.

 

I also suggested that if the problem was only on one side, then carefully
dismantle the other and compare components and dimensions.

 

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

... I don't really understand why the inner races can be so relatively
loose. Because of the relative damage to the spindle, a noticeable wear on
one side of the spindle especially on the outer bearings,  I would think
that a slip fit inner race, even with axial compression, would allow
potential spinning on the spindle causing wear similar to what I am seeing.


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lang=3DEN-US link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Yes, I think all three of us are singing in =
harmony. Both sides on my A were missing the oil seal spacer. From =
looking at the drawing in the workbook, and not having my spacer yet, it =
appears that that spacer fits in the inner diameter of the oil seal and =
butts up against the brake adapter plate and the inner bearing bearing =
(can&#8217;t tell if it is the inner or outer race). I am really =
surprised that I don&#8217;t have significant damage with the oil seal =
spacer missing: I would have thought the steering would be really =
bad.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>The 1500, 1600, and MkII =
don&#8217;t use shims, only the twin cam and deluxe use those because of =
different kinds of bearings, as I understand it. I did however, buy =
spacers because of the extended space I seem to be running. That may =
resolve itself with the various new parts.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> PaulHunt73 =
[mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, July 19, =
2015 1:35 AM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; =
mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] Follow up to MGA 1600 =
MkII front end suspension suspense<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>Are you =
and Barney singing off the same hymn-sheet?&nbsp; What Barney describes =
sounds the same to me as the MGB - that is the inner races are held =
tightly between a the oil seal collar on the inner part of the stub axle =
and the clamping nut and washer, with spacer and shims between =
them.&nbsp; Clamped like that - to between 40 and 70 ft lb on the MGB at =
least - the inners can't spin on the axle.&nbsp; But I thought it had =
already been&nbsp;established that your version of the MGA isn't like =
that anyway.</span><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times =
New Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>If the oil seal collar is missing, i.e. the part that the =
oil seal lip runs on, then with the MGB system (again at least) you will =
never get correct assembly of hub, bearings and axle as that takes up =
1/4&quot; or more of the effective length of the stub axle and hence =
play in the assembly.</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>I also suggested that if the problem was only on one side, =
then carefully dismantle the other and compare components and =
dimensions.</span><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>PaulH.</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
4.0pt;margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:=
5.0pt'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>----- Original =
Message ----- <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:#E4E4E4'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>... I =
don&#8217;t really understand why the inner races can be so relatively =
loose. Because of the relative damage to the spindle, a noticeable wear =
on one side of the spindle especially on the outer bearings,&nbsp; I =
would think that a slip fit inner race, even with axial compression, =
would allow potential spinning on the spindle causing wear similar to =
what I am =
seeing.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></blockquote></div></body></html>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 20 01:38:20 2015
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Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net
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To: <crk@godblessthe.us>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <038301d0c1ac$c4071ac0$4c155040$@godblessthe.us>
 <AD5FC332E6A74A509E11C92A80797127@paul>
 <006001d0c261$e52d6c80$af884580$@godblessthe.us>
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2015 08:36:10 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Follow up to MGA 1600 MkII front end suspension suspense
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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If the oil seal collar fits on the stub axle and the oil seal itself is =
pressed into the hub, as on the MGB, then the spacer has to butt up =
against the inner race of the bearing.  Anything else would mean the oil =
seal or the outer race would have to rotate inside the hub.

I don't know whether this =
http://www.mgexp.com/article/mgb/mg-midget-wheel-bearings/bad-midget-wire=
-wheel-hub.jpg is any help but it describes how what seems to be a =
similar problem can occur on the Midget which has fully assembled ball =
bearings instead of tapered rollers.  Replacement hubs have a radius =
where the inner race of the outer bearing butts up against a shoulder, =
which holds the bearing further out than it should be.  The spacer is =
loose, but everything else is 'tight' as it is the bearings themselves =
that are taking any force applied to the nut and will fail prematurely.  =
As long as the nut is not tightened you could still achieve the .002 to =
.004 (same as the MGB it seems) end float on the bearings, but at the =
expense of having the bearing inners free to move on the stub axle and =
loss of strength in the axle itself.  Steering would be fine.  =
Ironically there are more than a few that opine this is the best way to =
set up MGB front wheel bearings!

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  Yes, I think all three of us are singing in harmony. Both sides on my =
A were missing the oil seal spacer. From looking at the drawing in the =
workbook, and not having my spacer yet, it appears that that spacer fits =
in the inner diameter of the oil seal and butts up against the brake =
adapter plate and the inner bearing bearing (can't tell if it is the =
inner or outer race). I am really surprised that I don't have =
significant damage with the oil seal spacer missing: I would have =
thought the steering would be really bad.

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If the oil seal collar fits on the stub axle and the =
oil seal=20
itself is pressed into the hub, as on the MGB, then the spacer has to =
butt up=20
against the inner race of the bearing.&nbsp; Anything else would mean =
the oil=20
seal or the outer race would have to rotate inside the hub.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I don't know whether this <A=20
href=3D"http://www.mgexp.com/article/mgb/mg-midget-wheel-bearings/bad-mid=
get-wire-wheel-hub.jpg">http://www.mgexp.com/article/mgb/mg-midget-wheel-=
bearings/bad-midget-wire-wheel-hub.jpg</A>&nbsp;is=20
any help but it describes how what seems to be a similar problem can =
occur on=20
the Midget which has fully assembled ball bearings instead of tapered=20
rollers.&nbsp; Replacement hubs have a radius where the inner race of =
the outer=20
bearing butts up against a shoulder, which holds the bearing further out =
than it=20
should be.&nbsp; The spacer is loose, but everything else is 'tight' as =
it is=20
the bearings themselves that are taking any force applied to the nut and =
will=20
fail prematurely.&nbsp; As long as the nut is not tightened you could =
still=20
achieve the .002 to .004 (same as the MGB it seems) end float on the =
bearings,=20
but at the expense of having the bearing inners free to move on the stub =
axle=20
and loss of strength in the axle itself.&nbsp; Steering would be =
fine.&nbsp;=20
Ironically there are more than a few that opine&nbsp;this is the best =
way to set=20
up MGB front wheel bearings!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN style=3D"COLOR: #1f497d">Yes, I think all three of us are =
singing in=20
  harmony. Both sides on my A were missing the oil seal spacer. From =
looking at=20
  the drawing in the workbook, and not having my spacer yet, it appears =
that=20
  that spacer fits in the inner diameter of the oil seal and butts up =
against=20
  the brake adapter plate and the inner bearing bearing (can=92t tell if =
it is the=20
  inner or outer race). I am really surprised that I don=92t have =
significant=20
  damage with the oil seal spacer missing: I would have thought the =
steering=20
  would be really bad.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DWordSection1><FONT=20
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 20 14:24:21 2015
Return-Path: <mgs-bounces@autox.team.net>
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To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2015 16:20:47 -0400
Importance: Normal
Subject: [Mgs] triangular vent window seal replacement
From: dave willner via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============8660302507585879178==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0003_01D0C308.08F14A50"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0003_01D0C308.08F14A50
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi,

Question, I replaced the horizontal seal on my vent windows many years =
ago and did remove the window. To replace the =
=E2=80=9Ctriangular=E2=80=9D rubber seal around the vent window can I =
just remove the old one and stuff the new one in, or do I need to remove =
the window again?   Thanks=20

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A BRG
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 VS
------=_NextPart_000_0003_01D0C308.08F14A50
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Hi,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Question, I replaced the horizontal seal on my vent windows many =
years ago=20
and did remove the window. To replace the =E2=80=9Ctriangular=E2=80=9D =
rubber seal around the=20
vent window can I just remove the old one and stuff the new one in, or =
do I need=20
to remove the window again?&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: =
#000000">Dave=20
Willner<BR>Stroudsburg, PA<BR>59 TR3A BRG<BR>70 MGB BRG<BR>70 BSA 441=20
VS</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 20 15:55:09 2015
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 Mon, 20 Jul 2015 21:52:46 GMT
Full-Name: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2015 21:52:46 GMT
To: davewillner@pa.net
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] triangular vent window seal replacement
From: mgbob--- via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0012596711744069016==

----__JWM__J3cb3684d.5c1eb9c4S.59134881M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

  The pivot bolt passes through the rubber seal. Its nut and spring are =
underneath. While you --might-- be able to undo them from inside the doo=
r (I forget details) it would be best that you use penetrating oil gener=
ously on the nut so the bolt is not broken.   I removed the entire frame=
 for the job, as that gave opportunity to clean and lubricate winder mec=
hanism, adjust the channels, etc.  Ask for current recommendations for t=
he rubber. Five or six years ago when I did it, the rubber supplied by o=
ne vendor was, at best, an approximate fit. It is cracking and splitting=
 now, so the replacement is to be anticipated this coming winter.Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: dave willner via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] triangular vent window seal replacement
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2015 16:20:47 -0400


Hi, Question, I replaced the horizontal seal on my vent windows many yea=
rs ago and did remove the window. To replace the =E2&euro;&oelig;triangu=
lar=E2&euro;=9D rubber seal around the vent window can I just remove the=
 old one and stuff the new one in, or do I need to remove the window aga=
in?   Thanks Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A BRG
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 VS
----__JWM__J3cb3684d.5c1eb9c4S.59134881M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: inline

<html><div>&nbsp; The pivot bolt passes through the rubber seal. Its nut=
 and spring are underneath. While you --might-- be able to undo them fro=
m inside the door (I forget details) it would be best that you use penet=
rating oil generously on the nut so the bolt is not broken.&nbsp;</div><=
div>&nbsp; I removed the entire frame for the job, as that gave opportun=
ity to clean and lubricate winder mechanism, adjust the channels, etc.</=
div><div>&nbsp; Ask for current recommendations for the rubber. Five or =
six years ago when I did it, the rubber supplied by one vendor was, at b=
est, an approximate fit. It is cracking and splitting now, so the replac=
ement is to be anticipated this coming winter.</div><div>Bob</div><div><=
br><br>---------- Original Message ----------<br>From: dave willner via =
Mgs &lt;mgs@autox.team.net&gt;<br>To: &lt;mgs@autox.team.net&gt;<br>Subj=
ect: [Mgs] triangular vent window seal replacement<br>Date: Mon, 20 Jul =
2015 16:20:47 -0400<br><br></p><div dir=3D"ltr"><div style=3D"font-size:=
 12pt; font-family: 'Calibri'; color: #000000;"><div>Hi,</div><div>&nbsp=
;</div><div>Question, I replaced the horizontal seal on my vent windows =
many years ago and did remove the window. To replace the &acirc;&euro;&o=
elig;triangular&acirc;&euro;=9D rubber seal around the vent window can I=
 just remove the old one and stuff the new one in, or do I need to remov=
e the window again?&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks</div><div>&nbsp;</div><div style=3D=
"font-size: 12pt; font-family: 'Calibri'; color: #000000;">Dave Willner<=
br>Stroudsburg, PA<br>59 TR3A BRG<br>70 MGB BRG<br>70 BSA 441 VS</div></=
div></div></html>

----__JWM__J3cb3684d.5c1eb9c4S.59134881M--

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 21 01:35:02 2015
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Received: from paul ([82.33.136.201]) by know-smtprelay-4-imp with bizsmtp
 id uvbL1q00G4LtS4201vbL5q; Tue, 21 Jul 2015 08:35:20 +0100
 a=YoHHhzezPWCd72KMXRt8+g==:17 a=NcN59idvAAAA:8 a=r77TgQKjGQsHNAKrUKIA:9
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To: "dave willner" <davewillner@pa.net>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <2A23DA31422249E3BDC0EE82F43C7549@DavePC>
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2015 08:23:01 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] triangular vent window seal replacement
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============7902141678061338716==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0053_01D0C38E.756092A0"

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Ditto Bob.  If the nut comes undone without snapping the pivot pin (not =
nut) then yes it is possible to remove the vent window with the =
quarter-light in-situ.  But the pivot pin and nut are between two small =
holes for the securing nuts, the pivot is pointing forwards, and the =
nearest large access hole is below and behind it and the long leg of the =
frame is in the way.  With the vent out it is just a matter of stuffing =
the new seal in as you say and refitting the vent.  If you snap the =
pivot pin you have to remove the glass from the vent, so best avoided.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20

  Question, I replaced the horizontal seal on my vent windows many years =
ago and did remove the window. To replace the =
=E2=80=9Ctriangular=E2=80=9D rubber seal around the vent window can I =
just remove the old one and stuff the new one in, or do I need to remove =
the window again?   Thanks 
------=_NextPart_000_0053_01D0C38E.756092A0
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

=EF=BB=BF<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ditto Bob.&nbsp;&nbsp;If the nut comes undone =
without snapping=20
the&nbsp;pivot pin (not nut)&nbsp;then yes it is possible to remove the =
vent=20
window with the quarter-light in-situ.&nbsp; But the pivot pin and nut =
are=20
between two small holes for the securing nuts, the pivot =
is&nbsp;pointing=20
forwards, and the nearest large access hole is below and behind it and =
the long=20
leg of the frame is in the way.&nbsp;&nbsp;With the vent out it is just =
a matter=20
of stuffing the new seal in as you say&nbsp;and refitting the =
vent.&nbsp; If you=20
snap the pivot pin you have to remove the glass from the vent, so best=20
avoided.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black">&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: =
12pt">
  <DIV>Question, I replaced the horizontal seal on my vent windows many =
years=20
  ago and did remove the window. To replace the =
=E2=80=9Ctriangular=E2=80=9D rubber seal around=20
  the vent window can I just remove the old one and stuff the new one =
in, or do=20
  I need to remove the window again?&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks=20
</DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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--===============7902141678061338716==--

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 25 21:19:22 2015
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 Sat, 25 Jul 2015 20:18:57 -0700 (PDT)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2015 22:18:25 -0500
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] new steering rack
From: Paul Root via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
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SSBib3VnaHQgYSBuZXcgc3RlZXJpbmcgcmFjayBmcm9tIE1vc3MsIGFuZCBpbnN0YWxsZWQgaXQg
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dGlvbiAgJDEyLjc1CkFyY2hpdmU6IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cudGVhbS5uZXQvYXJjaGl2ZQpGb3J1bXM6
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bS5uZXQvbWFpbG1hbi9vcHRpb25zL21ncy9taGFyY0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldAo=

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 26 02:20:14 2015
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To: "Paul Root" <ptroot@gmail.com>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <08202DEA-B923-4E24-A3B6-959B6A690095@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2015 09:16:59 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] new steering rack
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, cut the little tie off, then attach a new one afterwards.  Doesn't need 
to be gorilla tight though, just nipped, so you can adjust the tracking 
subsequently.

I'm not familiar with what you have, but have made what sounds to be much 
the same thing to measure the toe.  Mine has a pointer each side that you 
position against a specific point in the centre of the tread, with the car 
moved back and fore so that point moves between in front and behind i.e. 
through 180 degrees, and always in horizontal alignment with the centre of 
the stub axle when you take a measurement.  The important thing is to take 
the measurements at the same point on the tyres, anything else will be 
subject to tyre distortions and positioning on the wheel.

I knew Moss were supplying grease-packed, but not heard of an adjustment 
screw.  Is that in place of the shims?  Can't see why that would need 
maintenance, in fact giving someone an adjustment screw instead of taking 
the time to set up the shims correctly in the factory seems sloppy to me, 
and asking for trouble with those who see an adjustment screw and decide to 
fiddle with it.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
> The rack boots come secured with tie wraps. While trying to do an 
> alignment, the boots turned with the rod. Should I cut of the tie wrap and 
> put a new one on after finishing?

_______________________________________________

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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 26 11:36:25 2015
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References: <08202DEA-B923-4E24-A3B6-959B6A690095@gmail.com>
 <D2593C0E073C45889122455C517B2E1E@paul>
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2015 17:35:58 +0000
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] new steering rack
From: Paul Root via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0349714815596804644==

--001a1141becc13f1a3051bcaac11

The adjustment screw is for the inside. You still use the shims the same
way for aligning the rack to the steering column.

On Sun, Jul 26, 2015, 3:19 AM PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com> wrote:

> Yes, cut the little tie off, then attach a new one afterwards.  Doesn't
> need
> to be gorilla tight though, just nipped, so you can adjust the tracking
> subsequently.
>
> I'm not familiar with what you have, but have made what sounds to be much
> the same thing to measure the toe.  Mine has a pointer each side that you
> position against a specific point in the centre of the tread, with the car
> moved back and fore so that point moves between in front and behind i.e.
> through 180 degrees, and always in horizontal alignment with the centre of
> the stub axle when you take a measurement.  The important thing is to take
> the measurements at the same point on the tyres, anything else will be
> subject to tyre distortions and positioning on the wheel.
>
> I knew Moss were supplying grease-packed, but not heard of an adjustment
> screw.  Is that in place of the shims?  Can't see why that would need
> maintenance, in fact giving someone an adjustment screw instead of taking
> the time to set up the shims correctly in the factory seems sloppy to me,
> and asking for trouble with those who see an adjustment screw and decide to
> fiddle with it.
>
> PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > The rack boots come secured with tie wraps. While trying to do an
> > alignment, the boots turned with the rod. Should I cut of the tie wrap
> and
> > put a new one on after finishing?
>
> --
Paul.

sent from my iPad

--001a1141becc13f1a3051bcaac11
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<p dir=3D"ltr">The adjustment screw is for the inside. You still use the sh=
ims the same way for aligning the rack to the steering column.<br>
</p>
<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Jul 26, 2015, 3:19 =
AM=C2=A0PaulHunt73 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com">paulhu=
nt73@virginmedia.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quo=
te" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"=
>Yes, cut the little tie off, then attach a new one afterwards.=C2=A0 Doesn=
&#39;t need<br>
to be gorilla tight though, just nipped, so you can adjust the tracking<br>
subsequently.<br>
<br>
I&#39;m not familiar with what you have, but have made what sounds to be mu=
ch<br>
the same thing to measure the toe.=C2=A0 Mine has a pointer each side that =
you<br>
position against a specific point in the centre of the tread, with the car<=
br>
moved back and fore so that point moves between in front and behind i.e.<br=
>
through 180 degrees, and always in horizontal alignment with the centre of<=
br>
the stub axle when you take a measurement.=C2=A0 The important thing is to =
take<br>
the measurements at the same point on the tyres, anything else will be<br>
subject to tyre distortions and positioning on the wheel.<br>
<br>
I knew Moss were supplying grease-packed, but not heard of an adjustment<br=
>
screw.=C2=A0 Is that in place of the shims?=C2=A0 Can&#39;t see why that wo=
uld need<br>
maintenance, in fact giving someone an adjustment screw instead of taking<b=
r>
the time to set up the shims correctly in the factory seems sloppy to me,<b=
r>
and asking for trouble with those who see an adjustment screw and decide to=
<br>
fiddle with it.<br>
<br>
PaulH.<br>
<br>
<br>
----- Original Message -----<br>
&gt; The rack boots come secured with tie wraps. While trying to do an<br>
&gt; alignment, the boots turned with the rod. Should I cut of the tie wrap=
 and<br>
&gt; put a new one on after finishing?<br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><div dir=3D"ltr">-- <br></div>Paul. <br><br>sent from my=
 iPad

--001a1141becc13f1a3051bcaac11--

--===============0349714815596804644==
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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net

--===============0349714815596804644==--

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 27 01:38:52 2015
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To: "Paul Root" <ptroot@gmail.com>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <08202DEA-B923-4E24-A3B6-959B6A690095@gmail.com>
 <D2593C0E073C45889122455C517B2E1E@paul>
 <CAPxc_gH_nA+CZmCqEQhoc-gDAkHW=3Qic-nMzZuzaJ0UTZ5W7w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2015 08:12:24 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] new steering rack
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I meant the shims under the pinion cover, not the shims between rack and =
mounting brackets.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  The adjustment screw is for the inside. You still use the shims the =
same way for aligning the rack to the steering column.

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01D0C843.F803FF80
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

=EF=BB=BF<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I meant the shims under the pinion cover, not the =
shims=20
between rack and mounting brackets.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV>The adjustment screw is for the inside. You still use the shims =
the same=20
  way for aligning the rack to the steering=20
column.<BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01D0C843.F803FF80--


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--===============1705153222973927048==--

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 27 16:01:31 2015
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Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2015 18:01:23 -0400
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AdDItvL5NCrFYtDvSr+G1Ixlercgrg==
Subject: [Mgs] Alignment tool
From: John Di Fede via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Paul,

 

I have the same alignment tool.   Place the tool behind the front wheels and
set the pointer to zero.   Then place the tool in front of the front wheels
and the pointer should indicate toe in of 1/16" ( I think this is the spec -
check you manual).  Make sure that your steering wheel is centered.  If the
toe in is not within spec, turn the tie rod ends on each side equally until
you have the correct measurement.  Lots of trial and error involved.  It may
take you a while to get it correct.     

 

John DiFede

 

I have the directions and can scan an d send them to you if necessary. 



---
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p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=
I have the same alignment tool.&nbsp;&nbsp; Place the tool behind the front=
 wheels and set the pointer to zero.&nbsp;&nbsp; Then place the tool in fro=
nt of the front wheels and the pointer should indicate toe in of 1/16&#8221=
; ( I think this is the spec -&nbsp; check you manual).&nbsp; Make sure tha=
t your steering wheel is centered.&nbsp; If the toe in is not within spec, =
turn the tie rod ends on each side equally until you have the correct measu=
rement.&nbsp; Lots of trial and error involved.&nbsp; It may take you a whi=
le to get it correct.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMso=
Normal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>John DiFede<o:p></o:p></p>=
<p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I have the d=
irections and can scan an d send them to you if necessary. <o:p></o:p></p><=
/div>
<br /><br />
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 28 01:27:03 2015
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To: "John Di Fede" <difejo@optonline.net>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <000901d0c8b7$c6b9f370$542dda50$@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 08:06:00 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alignment tool
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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You don't say anything about rolling the car back and fore so you use =
the same point on the tyre for both measurements.  If you don't do that, =
but measure different points on the tyre, you are dependent on the shape =
and fitment of the tyre.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  =20
  I have the same alignment tool.   Place the tool behind the front =
wheels and set the pointer to zero.   Then place the tool in front of =
the front wheels and the pointer should indicate toe in of 1/16" ( I =
think this is the spec -  check you manual).  Make sure that your =
steering wheel is centered.  If the toe in is not within spec, turn the =
tie rod ends on each side equally until you have the correct =
measurement.  Lots of trial and error involved.  It may take you a while =
to get it correct.    =20

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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></HEAD>
<BODY lang=3DEN-US link=3D#0563c1 bgColor=3D#ffffff vLink=3D#954f72>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>You don't say anything about rolling the car back =
and fore so=20
you use the same point on the tyre for both measurements.&nbsp; If you =
don't do=20
that, but measure different points on the tyre, you are dependent on the =
shape=20
and fitment of the tyre.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DWordSection1>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal>I have the same alignment tool.&nbsp;&nbsp; Place =
the tool=20
  behind the front wheels and set the pointer to zero.&nbsp;&nbsp; Then =
place=20
  the tool in front of the front wheels and the pointer should indicate =
toe in=20
  of 1/16=94 ( I think this is the spec -&nbsp; check you manual).&nbsp; =
Make sure=20
  that your steering wheel is centered.&nbsp; If the toe in is not =
within spec,=20
  turn the tie rod ends on each side equally until you have the correct=20
  measurement.&nbsp; Lots of trial and error involved.&nbsp; It may take =
you a=20
  while to get it correct.&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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References: <000901d0c8b7$c6b9f370$542dda50$@optonline.net>
 <E990CD59D94A47DF82C34F13F49BD831@paul>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Organization: Computer Helpers
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 08:04:51 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alignment tool
From: Charley & Peggy Robinson via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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I have a similar, if not the same, toe-in measuring tool.  What I'm 
leery of is finding a way to insure that each front wheel has the same 
toe-in angle compared the the rear wheel on the same side.  Not easy to 
ascertain.  The tool is rather flexible.

CR

On 7/28/2015 2:06 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote:
> You don't say anything about rolling the car back and fore so you use 
> the same point on the tyre for both measurements.  If you don't do 
> that, but measure different points on the tyre, you are dependent on 
> the shape and fitment of the tyre.
> PaulH.
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>
>     I have the same alignment tool.   Place the tool behind the front
>     wheels and set the pointer to zero.   Then place the tool in front
>     of the front wheels and the pointer should indicate toe in of
>     1/16” ( I think this is the spec -  check you manual).  Make sure
>     that your steering wheel is centered.  If the toe in is not within
>     spec, turn the tie rod ends on each side equally until you have
>     the correct measurement.  Lots of trial and error involved.  It
>     may take you a while to get it correct.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/ccrobins@ktc.com


--------------000000080104070904020902
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    I have a similar, if not the same, toe-in measuring tool.  What I'm
    leery of is finding a way to insure that each front wheel has the
    same toe-in angle compared the the rear wheel on the same side.  Not
    easy to ascertain.  The tool is rather flexible.<br>
    <br>
    CR<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/28/2015 2:06 AM, PaulHunt73 via
      Mgs wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:E990CD59D94A47DF82C34F13F49BD831@paul"
      type="cite">
      <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
        http-equiv="Content-Type">
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]-->
      <div><font size="2">You don't say anything about rolling the car
          back and fore so you use the same point on the tyre for both
          measurements.  If you don't do that, but measure different
          points on the tyre, you are dependent on the shape and fitment
          of the tyre.</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <div><font size="2">PaulH.</font></div>
      <div> </div>
      <blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT:
        5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
        <div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
        <div style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color:
          black"><o:p> </o:p></div>
        <div class="WordSection1">
          <p class="MsoNormal">I have the same alignment tool.   Place
            the tool behind the front wheels and set the pointer to
            zero.   Then place the tool in front of the front wheels and
            the pointer should indicate toe in of 1/16” ( I think this
            is the spec -  check you manual).  Make sure that your
            steering wheel is centered.  If the toe in is not within
            spec, turn the tie rod ends on each side equally until you
            have the correct measurement.  Lots of trial and error
            involved.  It may take you a while to get it correct.     <o:p></o:p></p>
        </div>
      </blockquote>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a>
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</pre>
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To: <ccrobins@ktc.com>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <000901d0c8b7$c6b9f370$542dda50$@optonline.net>
 <E990CD59D94A47DF82C34F13F49BD831@paul> <55B77DF3.8050600@ktc.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 14:26:17 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alignment tool
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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It's not a factor on solid/live axle cars such as the MGB.  There are no =
figures for it and it isn't adjustable as the axle to spring and spring =
to body mountings are 'fixed'.  Unlike the front wheels a solid axle =
should always be zero toe, if not there is something wrong.
  ----- Original Message -----=20


  ....  What I'm leery of is finding a way to insure that each front =
wheel has the same toe-in angle compared the the rear wheel on the same =
side.
------=_NextPart_000_003F_01D0C941.5DE21820
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff text=3D#000000>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>It's not a factor on solid/live axle cars such as =
the=20
MGB.&nbsp; There are no figures for it and it isn't adjustable as the =
axle to=20
spring and spring to body mountings are 'fixed'.&nbsp; Unlike the front =
wheels a=20
solid axle should always be zero toe, if not there is something=20
wrong.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
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  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>....&nbsp; =
What I'm=20
  leery of is finding a way to insure that each front wheel has the same =
toe-in=20
  angle compared the the rear wheel on the same side.<!--[if gte mso =
9]><xml>
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To: mgs@autox.team.net
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Thread-index: AdDJaL582m5yZ68dSuC3ZuH2XVFIkg==
Subject: [Mgs] Alignment tool
From: John Di Fede via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
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The alignment tool is rather primitive.  Paul, the instructions do not say
to roll the car back and forth so as to measure at the same point on the
tire.   I never considered that the tire could be fatter or narrower at
certain points on the sidewalls.   I suppose that could happen if you have
raised letters or some type of raised portion of the sidewalls.   For that
matter a slightly bent wheel could through off the measurement.  

 

The tool is just slightly better than measuring toe in using a tape measure.
Measure distance across the front of the tires and the back of the tires at
the same clock position on the tire ( 9  and 3  o'clock).  Front measurement
should be 1/16" shorter than the rear measurement.   I have set my own toe
in on the MG and other hobby cars I own.  It is a pain in the A$$ especially
when it involves centering the steering wheel.    It is all trial and error.
At times I have so much time invested that it would have been advantageous
to spend $75 at the tire shop. 

 

John DiFede



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" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>The alig=
nment tool is rather primitive.&nbsp; Paul, the instructions do not say to =
roll the car back and forth so as to measure at the same point on the tire.=
&nbsp;&nbsp; I never considered that the tire could be fatter or narrower a=
t certain points on the sidewalls.&nbsp; &nbsp;I suppose that could happen =
if you have raised letters or some type of raised portion of the sidewalls.=
&nbsp; &nbsp;For that matter a slightly bent wheel could through off the me=
asurement.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal>The tool is just slightly better than measuring toe in =
using a tape measure.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;Measure distance across the front o=
f the tires and the back of the tires at the same clock position on the tir=
e ( 9 &nbsp;and 3 &nbsp;o&#8217;clock).&nbsp; Front measurement should be 1=
/16&#8221; shorter than the rear measurement.&nbsp;&nbsp; I have set my own=
 toe in on the MG and other hobby cars I own.&nbsp; It is a pain in the A$$=
 especially when it involves centering the steering wheel.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbs=
p;It is all trial and error.&nbsp; At times I have so much time invested th=
at it would have been advantageous to spend $75 at the tire shop. <o:p></o:=
p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>John D=
iFede<o:p></o:p></p></div>
<br /><br />
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Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 13:06:53 -0700
References: <000601d0c96b$acd22040$067660c0$@optonline.net>
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alignment tool
From: Max Heim via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============0762560730126242918==


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Usually you can't measure directly from 3 o=E2=80=99clock to 3 =
o=E2=80=99clock, or 9 to 9, anyway =E2=80=94 there is all sorts of =
hardware in the way. So you are dropping a vertical to the ground from =
these positions, and measuring the distance between that pair of points. =
And because of flex in the sidewalls, you really should lift the car off =
the ground and set it back down after every adjustment, or have the =
tires on a frictionless surface (which of course needs to be absolutely =
flat and level, in any case). All of which adds so many potential =
inaccuracies of angle and measurement that I would expect the errors =
would overwhelm the data.

I have done it, but merely as a sanity check after front end work. Then =
I have it professionally aligned before I wreck a pair of tires.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
And now 67 MGB GHN3U137949G
Old English White, off-premises for restoration

> On Jul 28, 2015, at 12:29 PM, John Di Fede via Mgs =
<mgs@autox.team.net> wrote:
>=20
> The alignment tool is rather primitive.  Paul, the instructions do not =
say to roll the car back and forth so as to measure at the same point on =
the tire.   I never considered that the tire could be fatter or narrower =
at certain points on the sidewalls.   I suppose that could happen if you =
have raised letters or some type of raised portion of the sidewalls.   =
For that matter a slightly bent wheel could through off the measurement. =
=20
> =20
> The tool is just slightly better than measuring toe in using a tape =
measure.    Measure distance across the front of the tires and the back =
of the tires at the same clock position on the tire ( 9  and 3  =
o=E2=80=99clock).  Front measurement should be 1/16=E2=80=9D shorter =
than the rear measurement.   I have set my own toe in on the MG and =
other hobby cars I own.  It is a pain in the A$$ especially when it =
involves centering the steering wheel.    It is all trial and error.  At =
times I have so much time invested that it would have been advantageous =
to spend $75 at the tire shop.=20
> =20
> John DiFede
>=20
>=20
>  <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>=09
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.=20=

> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
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> Unsubscribe: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net =
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Usually you can't measure directly from 3 o=E2=80=99clock to =
3 o=E2=80=99clock, or 9 to 9, anyway =E2=80=94 there is all sorts of =
hardware in the way. So you are dropping a vertical to the ground from =
these positions, and measuring the distance between that pair of points. =
And because of flex in the sidewalls, you really should lift the car off =
the ground and set it back down after every adjustment, or have the =
tires on a frictionless surface (which of course needs to be absolutely =
flat and level, in any case). All of which adds so many potential =
inaccuracies of angle and measurement that I would expect the errors =
would overwhelm the data.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">I have done it, but merely as a sanity check after front end =
work. Then I have it professionally aligned before I wreck a pair of =
tires.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); letter-spacing: normal; orphans: =
auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; =
white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: 0px; font-size: 13px;" =
class=3D"">--</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; font-size: 13px; =
min-height: 16px;" class=3D"">Max Heim</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; =
font-size: 13px;" class=3D"">'66 MGB GHN3L76149</div><div style=3D"margin:=
 0px; font-size: 13px;" class=3D"">If you're near Menlo Park, =
CA,</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; font-size: 13px;" class=3D"">it's =
the primer red one with chrome wires</div><div style=3D"margin: 0px; =
font-size: 13px;" class=3D"">And now 67 MGB GHN3U137949G</div><div =
style=3D"margin: 0px; font-size: 13px;" class=3D"">Old English White, =
off-premises for restoration</div></div>
</div>

<br class=3D""><div><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Jul 28, 2015, at 12:29 PM, John Di Fede via Mgs &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net" class=3D"">mgs@autox.team.net</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div =
class=3D"WordSection1" style=3D"page: WordSection1; font-family: =
Verdana; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; =
font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; =
orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: =
none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;"><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">The =
alignment tool is rather primitive.&nbsp; Paul, the instructions do not =
say to roll the car back and forth so as to measure at the same point on =
the tire.&nbsp;&nbsp; I never considered that the tire could be fatter =
or narrower at certain points on the sidewalls.&nbsp; &nbsp;I suppose =
that could happen if you have raised letters or some type of raised =
portion of the sidewalls.&nbsp; &nbsp;For that matter a slightly bent =
wheel could through off the measurement.&nbsp;<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D"">&nbsp;</o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">The tool =
is just slightly better than measuring toe in using a tape =
measure.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;Measure distance across the front of the =
tires and the back of the tires at the same clock position on the tire ( =
9 &nbsp;and 3 &nbsp;o=E2=80=99clock).&nbsp; Front measurement should be =
1/16=E2=80=9D shorter than the rear measurement.&nbsp;&nbsp; I have set =
my own toe in on the MG and other hobby cars I own.&nbsp; It is a pain =
in the A$$ especially when it involves centering the steering =
wheel.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;It is all trial and error.&nbsp; At times I =
have so much time invested that it would have been advantageous to spend =
$75 at the tire shop.<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D"">&nbsp;</o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">John =
DiFede<o:p class=3D""></o:p></div></div><br style=3D"font-family: =
Verdana; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; =
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_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
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--===============0762560730126242918==--

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 29 01:31:11 2015
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To: "Max Heim" <mvheim@sonic.net>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <000601d0c96b$acd22040$067660c0$@optonline.net>
 <C270B431-A60D-4FFE-8FE4-54346E6AEF0D@sonic.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2015 08:08:35 +0100
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Alignment tool
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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No, you roll it back and fore to even out the stresses on the tyre after =
making any adjustment.  That is standard practice when using =
professional alignment equipment, not just home-use kit that started =
this thread.  When you lift the tyres off the ground and lower it again, =
the tyres touch the ground when the suspension is fully extended.  The =
suspension then proceeds to compress until it is taking the full weight =
of the car.  There is no telling what stresses will develop between tyre =
and ground, and hence be applied to all the steering and suspension =
components, during the compression process.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  ... And because of flex in the sidewalls, you really should lift the =
car off the ground and set it back down after every adjustment
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<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>No, you roll it back and fore to even out the =
stresses on the=20
tyre after making any adjustment.&nbsp; That is standard practice when =
using=20
professional alignment equipment, not just home-use&nbsp;kit that =
started this=20
thread.&nbsp; When you lift the tyres off the ground and lower it again, =
the=20
tyres touch the ground when the suspension is fully extended.&nbsp; The=20
suspension then proceeds to compress until it is taking the full weight =
of the=20
car.&nbsp; There is no telling what stresses will develop between tyre =
and=20
ground, and hence be applied to all the steering and suspension =
components,=20
during the compression process.</FONT></DIV>
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  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><B>..</B>.=20
  And because of flex in the sidewalls, you really should lift the car =
off the=20
  ground and set it back down after every=20
adjustment</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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