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Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2018 19:26:55 -0500
To: MG list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Parts.........
From: Peter Chast via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8860687857600004805==

--00000000000062a8ff057a94fd33

I don't know if anyone is interested........
This ebay listing is in Yorktown, Va.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/292813475375

--00000000000062a8ff057a94fd33
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">I don&#39;t know if anyone is interested.=
.......=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"ltr">This ebay listing is in Yorktown, Va.</=
div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><a href=3D"https://www.ebay=
.com/itm/292813475375">https://www.ebay.com/itm/292813475375</a><br></div><=
div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div></div>

--00000000000062a8ff057a94fd33--

--===============8860687857600004805==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net

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Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2018 10:45:40 -0500
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder
From: John DiFede via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 17 10:39:27 2018
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To: "John DiFede" <difejo1@gmail.com>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2018 16:54:07 -0000
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Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
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bWFuL29wdGlvbnMvbWdzL21oYXJjQGF1dG94LnRlYW0ubmV0Cg==

From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 17 14:33:21 2018
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Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2018 20:30:07 +0000 (UTC)
To: John DiFede <difejo1@gmail.com>
References: <1E18D3B2-2C32-477E-817C-93559370666A@gmail.com>
 x64; rv:63.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/63.0
Cc: "Mgs@autox.team.net" <Mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder
From: Jack Wheeler via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0652090666595791237==
	boundary="----=_Part_2514969_111675033.1542486607336"

------=_Part_2514969_111675033.1542486607336
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 Mine is a 1971.=C2=A0 I replaced the clutch M/C without removing the pedal=
 box.=C2=A0 However, I would have to say, it would almost have been easier =
to remove the pedal box.=C2=A0 To get to the lower attachment bolt, you hav=
e to go through a hole in the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.=
=C2=A0 It is covered with a rubber "plug", and is not easy to get to.=C2=A0=
 You also have to use a long extension with a swivel on your socket.
Good luck.
Jack Wheeler

    On Saturday, November 17, 2018, 11:28:42 AM EST, John DiFede via Mgs <m=
gs@autox.team.net> wrote: =20
=20
=20
On a US spec 1973 left hand drive MGB, is it possible to remove and replace=
 the brake and clutch master cylinders without removing the pedal box?=C2=
=A0 The Bentley and Haynes books both state this is possible on the older B=
=E2=80=99s , but not the newer models with the tandem (dual circuit) master=
 brake cylinder.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m not looking forward to going up into dri=
vers side footwell to access the pedal box bolts.=C2=A0 I don=E2=80=99t ben=
d or see as well as I used to when I did this job 20 years ago!=C2=A0=20

Thanks=20
John. 1973 MGB
Sent from my iPhone
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs

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 =20
------=_Part_2514969_111675033.1542486607336
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp44bb317fyahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px=
;"><div></div>
        <div>Mine is a 1971.&nbsp; I replaced the clutch M/C without removi=
ng the pedal box.&nbsp; However, I would have to say, it would almost have =
been easier to remove the pedal box.&nbsp; To get to the lower attachment b=
olt, you have to go through a hole in the firewall, right behind the master=
 cylinders.&nbsp; It is covered with a rubber "plug", and is not easy to ge=
t to.&nbsp; You also have to use a long extension with a swivel on your soc=
ket.</div><div><br></div><div>Good luck.</div><div><br></div><div>Jack Whee=
ler<br></div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp997280b6yahoo_quoted_3281723503" class=3D"ydp99=
7280b6yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Saturday, November 17, 2018, 11:28:42 AM EST, John D=
iFede via Mgs &lt;mgs@autox.team.net&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">On a US sp=
ec 1973 left hand drive MGB, is it possible to remove and replace the brake=
 and clutch master cylinders without removing the pedal box?&nbsp;  The Ben=
tley and Haynes books both state this is possible on the older B=E2=80=99s =
, but not the newer models with the tandem (dual circuit) master brake cyli=
nder.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m not looking forward to going up into drivers side f=
ootwell to access the pedal box bolts.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t bend or see as=
 well as I used to when I did this job 20 years ago!&nbsp; <br></div><div d=
ir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Joh=
n. 1973 MGB<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone<br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr">_______________________________________________<br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" r=
el=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr">Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"nofollo=
w" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr">Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><=
br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail=
/mgs" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs<=
/a><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Unsubscribe: <a hr=
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Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2018 21:14:01 +0000 (UTC)
To: Mglist <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <1E18D3B2-2C32-477E-817C-93559370666A@gmail.com>
 CFNetwork/975.0.3 Darwin/18.2.0
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder
From: Zach Dorsch via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4944629160565923003==
	boundary="----=_Part_2240502_529955982.1542489241057"

------=_Part_2240502_529955982.1542489241057
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Yes it can be done, but either way it=E2=80=99s a bear to get the bolts and=
 hard lines reinstalled. I ended up epoxying the nuts to the master cylinde=
r to avoid having to fit a wrench in there again.




On Saturday, November 17, 2018, 10:45 AM, John DiFede via Mgs <mgs@autox.te=
am.net> wrote:


On a US spec 1973 left hand drive MGB, is it possible to remove and replace=
 the brake and clutch master cylinders without removing the pedal box?=C2=
=A0 The Bentley and Haynes books both state this is possible on the older B=
=E2=80=99s , but not the newer models with the tandem (dual circuit) master=
 brake cylinder.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m not looking forward to going up into dri=
vers side footwell to access the pedal box bolts.=C2=A0 I don=E2=80=99t ben=
d or see as well as I used to when I did this job 20 years ago!=C2=A0=20

Thanks=20
John. 1973 MGB
Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/herr_dorsch@yahoo.co=
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------=_Part_2240502_529955982.1542489241057
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<html xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microso=
ft-com:vml" xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"><head><!--[=
if gte mso 9]><xml><o:OfficeDocumentSettings><o:AllowPNG/><o:PixelsPerInch>=
96</o:PixelsPerInch></o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--></head><bo=
dy>
Yes it can be done, but either way it=E2=80=99s a bear to get the bolts and=
 hard lines reinstalled. I ended up epoxying the nuts to the master cylinde=
r to avoid having to fit a wrench in there again.<br><br><br><br><p class=
=3D"yahoo-quoted-begin" style=3D"font-size: 15px; color: #715FFA; padding-t=
op: 15px; margin-top: 0">On Saturday, November 17, 2018, 10:45 AM, John DiF=
ede via Mgs &lt;mgs@autox.team.net&gt; wrote:</p><blockquote class=3D"iosym=
ail"><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">On a US spec 1973 left han=
d drive MGB, is it possible to remove and replace the brake and clutch mast=
er cylinders without removing the pedal box?&nbsp;  The Bentley and Haynes =
books both state this is possible on the older B=E2=80=99s , but not the ne=
wer models with the tandem (dual circuit) master brake cylinder.&nbsp; I=E2=
=80=99m not looking forward to going up into drivers side footwell to acces=
s the pedal box bolts.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t bend or see as well as I used =
to when I did this job 20 years ago!&nbsp; <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">John. 1973 MGB<br><=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">_______=
________________________________________<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></di=
v><div dir=3D"ltr"><a ymailto=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net" href=3D"mailto:=
Mgs@autox.team.net">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Donate=
: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.=
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n&nbsp; $12.75<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Archive=
: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs" target=3D"_blank">http://ww=
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=3D"ltr">Unsubscribe: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/=
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ons/mgs/herr_dorsch@yahoo.com</a><br></div><blockquote></blockquote></block=
quote>
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 18 02:38:29 2018
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Cc: <Mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <1E18D3B2-2C32-477E-817C-93559370666A@gmail.com>
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Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2018 09:22:20 -0000
 m3DJ/KfCig2ZBxNDmK6IjXRQLsDWXZiOGiigRWRmaNpwu1uMF0+QKu9a
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============2888316666100003270==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0031_01D47F20.34C47BC0"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0031_01D47F20.34C47BC0
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

To be fair, and having done it both ways with both masters at various =
times and for a repaint, it's MUCH easier to get at the banjo bolts =
through the large plug in the firewall than it is to remove and refit =
those two bolts which are higher up behind the dash.

As said getting the lower nuts on the master cylinder is a fiddle, but =
again nowhere near as bad as those two bolts.  I wedged the nuts into an =
open-ended spanner and stuck the washer to them with grease.

And on the subject, anyone know the purpose of the thin shim between the =
single-circuit (not dual?) brake master and the pedal box?  It surely =
can't be to do with alignment.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  ....  To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go through a =
hole in the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.  It is covered =
with a rubber "plug", and is not easy to get to...
------=_NextPart_000_0031_01D47F20.34C47BC0
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

=EF=BB=BF<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>To be fair, and having done it&nbsp;both ways with =
both=20
masters at various times and for a repaint, it's MUCH easier to get at =
the banjo=20
bolts through the large plug in the firewall than it is to remove and =
refit=20
those two bolts which are higher up behind the dash.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>As said getting the lower nuts on the master =
cylinder is a=20
fiddle, but again nowhere near as bad as those two bolts.&nbsp;&nbsp;I =
wedged=20
the nuts into an open-ended spanner and stuck the washer to them with=20
grease.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>And on the subject, anyone know the purpose of the =
thin shim=20
between the&nbsp;single-circuit (not dual?)&nbsp;brake&nbsp;master and =
the pedal=20
box?&nbsp; It surely can't be to do with alignment.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV>....&nbsp; To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go =
through a=20
  hole in the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.&nbsp; It is =
covered=20
  with a rubber "plug", and is not easy to get=20
to...</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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To: "'PaulHunt73'" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>,
	<mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <1E18D3B2-2C32-477E-817C-93559370666A@gmail.com>
 <350964954.2514970.1542486607338@mail.yahoo.com>
 <3A30F9F3D4B04EC0909608918861CFFD@paul>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2018 20:32:29 +0100
Thread-Index: AQJvBMgvP8OSm+G7f4/NkSf9DMKJsgLEByVUAWg/zgSkARA9UA==
 FILETIME=[9B0C9DD0:01D4803E]
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder
From: Hans Duinhoven via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

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Just a thought about the shim:

It might be for preventing =E2=80=9Crusting solid tight=E2=80=9D. 

Brake fluid can cause serious scalding, i.o.w. it might cause serious corro=
sion.

Having a =E2=80=9Cshim=E2=80=9D might prevent this.

 

For Paul:

The single cylinder brake mc I think is easier to swap w/o removing the ped=
al box, than the US spec tandem cylinder, which is longer.

 

Cheers

Hans

 

Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] Namens PaulHunt73 via Mgs
Verzonden: zondag 18 november 2018 10:22
CC: Mgs@autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder

 

To be fair, and having done it both ways with both masters at various times=
 and for a repaint, it's MUCH easier to get at the banjo bolts through the =
large plug in the firewall than it is to remove and refit those two bolts w=
hich are higher up behind the dash.

 

As said getting the lower nuts on the master cylinder is a fiddle, but agai=
n nowhere near as bad as those two bolts.  I wedged the nuts into an open-e=
nded spanner and stuck the washer to them with grease.

 

And on the subject, anyone know the purpose of the thin shim between the si=
ngle-circuit (not dual?) brake master and the pedal box?  It surely can't b=
e to do with alignment.

 

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

=2E...  To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go through a hole =
in the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.  It is covered with a r=
ubber "plug", and is not easy to get to...



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Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware.=

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nk=3Dblue vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><sp=
an lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif=
";color:#1F497D'>Just a thought about the shim:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Ca=
libri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>It might be for preventing =E2=80=9Crust=
ing solid tight=E2=80=9D. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";c=
olor:#1F497D'>Brake fluid can cause serious scalding, i.o.w. it might cause=
 serious corrosion.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3D=
EN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1=
F497D'>Having a =E2=80=9Cshim=E2=80=9D might prevent this.<o:p></o:p></span=
></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font=
-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-famil=
y:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>For Paul:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p c=
lass=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"=
Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>The single cylinder brake mc I think i=
s easier to swap w/o removing the pedal box, than the US spec tandem cylind=
er, which is longer.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=
=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color=
:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-=
US style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F49=
7D'>Cheers<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US sty=
le=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Ha=
ns<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'fo=
nt-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp=
;</o:p></span></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1=
=2E0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span style=3D'fo=
nt-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>Van:</span></b><span styl=
e=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Mgs [mailto:mgs-b=
ounces@autox.team.net] <b>Namens </b>PaulHunt73 via Mgs<br><b>Verzonden:</b=
> zondag 18 november 2018 10:22<br><b>CC:</b> Mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Onde=
rwerp:</b> Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></=
div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><sp=
an style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>To be fair, and having done it&nbsp;both ways=
 with both masters at various times and for a repaint, it's MUCH easier to =
get at the banjo bolts through the large plug in the firewall than it is to=
 remove and refit those two bolts which are higher up behind the dash.</spa=
n><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div=
><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>As said getting=
 the lower nuts on the master cylinder is a fiddle, but again nowhere near =
as bad as those two bolts.&nbsp;&nbsp;I wedged the nuts into an open-ended =
spanner and stuck the washer to them with grease.</span><o:p></o:p></p></di=
v><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoN=
ormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>And on the subject, anyone know the =
purpose of the thin shim between the&nbsp;single-circuit (not dual?)&nbsp;b=
rake&nbsp;master and the pedal box?&nbsp; It surely can't be to do with ali=
gnment.</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o=
:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Pau=
lH.</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote style=3D'border:none;border-left=
:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm 4.0pt;margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:=
5.0pt;margin-right:0cm;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span=
 style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>----- Original=
 Message ----- <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>....&n=
bsp; To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go through a hole in =
the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.&nbsp; It is covered with a=
 rubber &quot;plug&quot;, and is not easy to get to...<o:p></o:p></p></div>=
</blockquote></div><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 18:33:36 2018
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References: <1E18D3B2-2C32-477E-817C-93559370666A@gmail.com>
 <350964954.2514970.1542486607338@mail.yahoo.com>
 <3A30F9F3D4B04EC0909608918861CFFD@paul>
 <001201d4803e$9c1e0dd0$d45a2970$@planet.nl>
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2018 17:28:21 -0800
To: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
Cc: mglist <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder
From: i erbs via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4220254994426557162==

--00000000000043dc75057b0e8d27
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Shims of different thicknesses have been used to adjust pushrod depth and
length.


Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Mon, Nov 19, 2018, 11:40 AM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net
wrote:

> Just a thought about the shim:
>
> It might be for preventing =E2=80=9Crusting solid tight=E2=80=9D.
>
> Brake fluid can cause serious scalding, i.o.w. it might cause serious
> corrosion.
>
> Having a =E2=80=9Cshim=E2=80=9D might prevent this.
>
>
>
> For Paul:
>
> The single cylinder brake mc I think is easier to swap w/o removing the
> pedal box, than the US spec tandem cylinder, which is longer.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Hans
>
>
>
> *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] *Namens *PaulHunt73 via Mg=
s
> *Verzonden:* zondag 18 november 2018 10:22
> *CC:* Mgs@autox.team.net
> *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder
>
>
>
> To be fair, and having done it both ways with both masters at various
> times and for a repaint, it's MUCH easier to get at the banjo bolts throu=
gh
> the large plug in the firewall than it is to remove and refit those two
> bolts which are higher up behind the dash.
>
>
>
> As said getting the lower nuts on the master cylinder is a fiddle, but
> again nowhere near as bad as those two bolts.  I wedged the nuts into an
> open-ended spanner and stuck the washer to them with grease.
>
>
>
> And on the subject, anyone know the purpose of the thin shim between
> the single-circuit (not dual?) brake master and the pedal box?  It surely
> can't be to do with alignment.
>
>
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> ....  To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go through a hole
> in the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.  It is covered with a
> rubber "plug", and is not easy to get to...
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
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>
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> <#m_4705006631985592988_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
>
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> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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--00000000000043dc75057b0e8d27
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<div dir=3D"auto">Shims of different thicknesses have been used to adjust p=
ushrod depth and length.<div dir=3D"auto"><br><br><div data-smartmail=3D"gm=
ail_signature" dir=3D"auto">Ira Erbs<br>Portland, OR<br>typos and artifacts=
 are the fault of my phone</div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">=
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Nov 19, 2018, 11:40 AM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs &lt;=
<a href=3D"mailto:mgs@autox.team.net">mgs@autox.team.net</a> wrote:<br></di=
v><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:=
1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div bgcolor=3D"white" lang=3D"NL" link=3D=
"blue" vlink=3D"purple"><div class=3D"m_4705006631985592988WordSection1"><p=
 class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-fa=
mily:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Just a thoug=
ht about the shim:<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lan=
g=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot=
;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">It might be for preventing =E2=80=9Crustin=
g solid tight=E2=80=9D. <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><sp=
an lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;=
,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Brake fluid can cause serious scaldi=
ng, i.o.w. it might cause serious corrosion.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p cla=
ss=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family=
:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Having a =E2=80=
=9Cshim=E2=80=9D might prevent this.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;C=
alibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></sp=
an></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0p=
t;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">For=
 Paul:<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" =
style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&=
quot;;color:#1f497d">The single cylinder brake mc I think is easier to swap=
 w/o removing the pedal box, than the US spec tandem cylinder, which is lon=
ger.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&qu=
ot;;color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><s=
pan lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot=
;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Cheers<u></u><u></u></span></p><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-fami=
ly:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Hans<u></u><u>=
</u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-si=
ze:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f4=
97d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><div><div style=3D"border:none;border-t=
op:solid #b5c4df 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b=
><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-=
serif&quot;">Van:</span></b><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&qu=
ot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;"> Mgs [mailto:<a href=3D"mailto:mgs-=
bounces@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">mgs-bounces@au=
tox.team.net</a>] <b>Namens </b>PaulHunt73 via Mgs<br><b>Verzonden:</b> zon=
dag 18 november 2018 10:22<br><b>CC:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:Mgs@autox.team.n=
et" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Onder=
werp:</b> Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder<u></u><u></u></span></p></div>=
</div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><div><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt">To be fair, and having done it=C2=A0=
both ways with both masters at various times and for a repaint, it&#39;s MU=
CH easier to get at the banjo bolts through the large plug in the firewall =
than it is to remove and refit those two bolts which are higher up behind t=
he dash.</span><u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0<u=
></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:=
10.0pt">As said getting the lower nuts on the master cylinder is a fiddle, =
but again nowhere near as bad as those two bolts.=C2=A0=C2=A0I wedged the n=
uts into an open-ended spanner and stuck the washer to them with grease.</s=
pan><u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0<u></u><u></u=
></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt">And=
 on the subject, anyone know the purpose of the thin shim between the=C2=A0=
single-circuit (not dual?)=C2=A0brake=C2=A0master and the pedal box?=C2=A0 =
It surely can&#39;t be to do with alignment.</span><u></u><u></u></p></div>=
<div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt">PaulH.</span><u></u><u></u></p>=
</div><blockquote style=3D"border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;paddin=
g:0cm 0cm 0cm 4.0pt;margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0cm;ma=
rgin-bottom:5.0pt"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10.=
0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;">----- Original Me=
ssage ----- <u></u><u></u></span></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">....=
=C2=A0 To get to the lower attachment bolt, you have to go through a hole i=
n the firewall, right behind the master cylinders.=C2=A0 It is covered with=
 a rubber &quot;plug&quot;, and is not easy to get to...<u></u><u></u></p><=
/div></blockquote></div><div id=3D"m_4705006631985592988DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-=
A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 19 18:45:43 2018
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 Mon, 19 Nov 2018 17:31:32 -0800 (PST)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2018 17:31:21 -0800
To: mglist <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] Brake bleeding
From: i erbs via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4666925609502765027==

--000000000000f65134057b0e9778

I am new to MGs but not British cars. I have read posts that seem to
indicate that bleeding the brakes on my 67B is not as straight forwatd as
say my big Healey. So could someone provide directions of the proceedure? I
would start with cyl farthest away and work my way to the front.
Thanks

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

--000000000000f65134057b0e9778
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">I am new to MGs but not British cars. I have read posts t=
hat seem to indicate that bleeding the brakes on my 67B is not as straight =
forwatd as say my big Healey. So could someone provide directions of the pr=
oceedure? I would start with cyl farthest away and work my way to the front=
.<div dir=3D"auto">Thanks<br><br><div data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature" di=
r=3D"auto">Ira Erbs<br>Portland, OR<br>typos and artifacts are the fault of=
 my phone</div></div></div>

--000000000000f65134057b0e9778--

--===============4666925609502765027==
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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 20 01:51:47 2018
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To: "i erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com>,
	"mglist" <mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <CABXhz89OTotyABeMHgA9DBWUD2LWiszDFJ+j8g+sTGDrrAOcug@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2018 08:37:28 -0000
 mJIl54jYeG4Sq9Cfc4xIO8yJMv7t/kPZr3viBl5KEBk21hzvsxuWH75VW47YqPxLC4Lj2AV8i2/GJg==
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake bleeding
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============1537115289581488795==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_002A_01D480AC.457E1C90"

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Longest run to shortest is correct, with the handbrake released to =
minimise the cavity in the wheel cylinders.  I've always used an =
EeziBled - at no more than 15psi - to initially fill and bleed both =
clutch and brake systems, but that has always left the brake pedal long =
and soft.  It pumps up with a couple of quick strokes, then after a =
couple of seconds goes long and soft again - i.e. still some air in.  =
The second step is for someone to press down very hard on the pedal, =
then I rapidly open and close a caliper nipple, first one side then the =
other.  That always blasts more air out and after that it is fine.  The =
front of the car needs to be slightly higher than the rear.

But if just replacing fluid on an otherwise working system then an =
EeziBleed and opening each nipple in turn until the fluid runs clear =
should be all that is needed.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  I am new to MGs but not British cars. I have read posts that seem to =
indicate that bleeding the brakes on my 67B is not as straight forwatd =
as say my big Healey. So could someone provide directions of the =
proceedure? I would start with cyl farthest away and work my way to the =
front.

------=_NextPart_000_002A_01D480AC.457E1C90
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

=EF=BB=BF<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Longest run to shortest is correct, with the =
handbrake=20
released to minimise the cavity in the wheel cylinders.&nbsp; I've =
always used=20
an EeziBled - at no more than 15psi - to initially fill and bleed both =
clutch=20
and brake systems, but that has always left the brake pedal long and =
soft.&nbsp;=20
It pumps up with a couple of quick strokes, then after a couple of =
seconds goes=20
long and soft again - i.e. still some air in.&nbsp; The second step is =
for=20
someone to press down very hard on the pedal, then I rapidly open and=20
close&nbsp;a caliper nipple, first one side then the other.&nbsp; That =
always=20
blasts more air out and after that it is fine.&nbsp; The front of the =
car needs=20
to be slightly higher than the rear.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>But if just replacing fluid on an otherwise working =
system=20
then an EeziBleed and opening each nipple in turn until the fluid runs =
clear=20
should be all that is needed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV>I am new to MGs but not British cars. I have read posts that seem =
to=20
  indicate that bleeding the brakes on my 67B is not as straight forwatd =
as say=20
  my big Healey. So could someone provide directions of the proceedure? =
I would=20
  start with cyl farthest away and work my way to the front.</DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dauto><FONT =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002A_01D480AC.457E1C90--


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From mgs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 20 01:53:56 2018
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To: "i erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com>,
	"Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
References: <1E18D3B2-2C32-477E-817C-93559370666A@gmail.com>
 <350964954.2514970.1542486607338@mail.yahoo.com>
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 <CABXhz8_YY77uv_FVPYceoq+4hH_8JHm-FPhdE9j=QsChUTYkCw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2018 08:26:23 -0000
 mJIl54jYeG4Sq0DddpRi6QLvT4nHKJ3r+sepsWWzlzEl+o/kMQCVSjepeskwH0/QtqngXXNxr7XmV+Mc2GJVjBG2uuuO8ds5dM7nM2EwMSFSRlEWoE4NaLss
Cc: mglist <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1973 mgb master cylinder
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============0727086092124179853==
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This is nothing to do with the pushrod, it's between the master and the =
pedal box.  As the pushrod should always come back to the circlip, and =
the pedal is free to come back even further when not attached to the =
pushrod, all this shim does is vary the position of the brake pedal =
footpad fractionally.

It's also only on the brake master according to the Parts Catalogue, and =
only on the single-circuit at that, so I can't see it being anything to =
do with fluid leaks.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message -----=20


  Shims of different thicknesses have been used to adjust pushrod depth =
and length.

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01D480AA.B8B8C720
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

=EF=BB=BF<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is nothing to do with the pushrod, =
it's&nbsp;between the=20
master and the pedal box.&nbsp; As the pushrod should always come back =
to the=20
circlip, and the pedal is free to come back even further when not =
attached to=20
the pushrod, all this shim does is vary the position of the brake pedal =
footpad=20
fractionally.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>It's also only on the brake master according to the =
Parts=20
Catalogue, and only on the single-circuit at that, so I can't see it =
being=20
anything to do with fluid leaks.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dauto>Shims of different thicknesses have been used to =
adjust pushrod=20
  depth and length.
  <DIV dir=3Dauto><FONT =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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References: <CABXhz89OTotyABeMHgA9DBWUD2LWiszDFJ+j8g+sTGDrrAOcug@mail.gmail.com>
 <1553452C91674E48A1F6CCB63E5974EF@paul>
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2018 05:53:45 -0800
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: mglist <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Brake bleeding
From: i erbs via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0367149715784976138==

--0000000000000626e8057b18f79e

Thanks to all who have replied

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Tue, Nov 20, 2018, 12:40 AM PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com wrote:

> Longest run to shortest is correct, with the handbrake released to
> minimise the cavity in the wheel cylinders.  I've always used an EeziBled -
> at no more than 15psi - to initially fill and bleed both clutch and brake
> systems, but that has always left the brake pedal long and soft.  It pumps
> up with a couple of quick strokes, then after a couple of seconds goes long
> and soft again - i.e. still some air in.  The second step is for someone to
> press down very hard on the pedal, then I rapidly open and close a caliper
> nipple, first one side then the other.  That always blasts more air out and
> after that it is fine.  The front of the car needs to be slightly higher
> than the rear.
>
> But if just replacing fluid on an otherwise working system then an
> EeziBleed and opening each nipple in turn until the fluid runs clear should
> be all that is needed.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> I am new to MGs but not British cars. I have read posts that seem to
> indicate that bleeding the brakes on my 67B is not as straight forwatd as
> say my big Healey. So could someone provide directions of the proceedure? I
> would start with cyl farthest away and work my way to the front.
>
>
>

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Thanks to all who have replied<br><br><div data-smartmail=
=3D"gmail_signature">Ira Erbs<br>Portland, OR<br>typos and artifacts are th=
e fault of my phone</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"l=
tr">On Tue, Nov 20, 2018, 12:40 AM PaulHunt73 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:paulhun=
t73@virginmedia.com">paulhunt73@virginmedia.com</a> wrote:<br></div><blockq=
uote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc =
solid;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>





<div bgcolor=3D"#ffffff">
<div><font size=3D"2">Longest run to shortest is correct, with the handbrak=
e=20
released to minimise the cavity in the wheel cylinders.=C2=A0 I&#39;ve alwa=
ys used=20
an EeziBled - at no more than 15psi - to initially fill and bleed both clut=
ch=20
and brake systems, but that has always left the brake pedal long and soft.=
=C2=A0=20
It pumps up with a couple of quick strokes, then after a couple of seconds =
goes=20
long and soft again - i.e. still some air in.=C2=A0 The second step is for=
=20
someone to press down very hard on the pedal, then I rapidly open and=20
close=C2=A0a caliper nipple, first one side then the other.=C2=A0 That alwa=
ys=20
blasts more air out and after that it is fine.=C2=A0 The front of the car n=
eeds=20
to be slightly higher than the rear.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">But if just replacing fluid on an otherwise working s=
ystem=20
then an EeziBleed and opening each nipple in turn until the fluid runs clea=
r=20
should be all that is needed.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2">PaulH.</font></div>
<blockquote style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:#000000 2px solid;PADDING-LEFT:5px;PADDING=
-RIGHT:0px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;MARGIN-RIGHT:0px">
  <div style=3D"FONT:10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
  <div>I am new to MGs but not British cars. I have read posts that seem to=
=20
  indicate that bleeding the brakes on my 67B is not as straight forwatd as=
 say=20
  my big Healey. So could someone provide directions of the proceedure? I w=
ould=20
  start with cyl farthest away and work my way to the front.</div>
  <div dir=3D"auto"><font size=3D"2"></font>=C2=A0</div></blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>

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