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Subject: [Oletrucks] overdrive trans question
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Hi all,

I acquired a 3 speed overdrive transmission for my '56 with a 235 inline 6
stock engine. This is instead of changing out the rear end. But it turns out
that the countergear is toast and new ones are pricey so I am in search of a
used transmission I can bolt up to the overdrive. 

 

The overdrive is a Borg Warner R10, the 3 speed is a Muncie 318/319. This is
a non-synchro in 1st. Does anyone know if that overdrive will bolt up to
later model with a synchro 1st that will bolt up to the 235 at the
bellhousing?

 

Anyone have a 3 speed they want to get rid of?

 

Thanks all, have a good Mother's Day.

 

Bob
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From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 16 01:54:56 2012
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Subject: [Oletrucks] Power steering rack
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I am at the end of my rope on this one. In building my 1949 GMC I took a 
79 Chev 3/4 ton front end and narrowed several inches out of the middle. 
It mounted well and looks like cast , camber , toe, and bump steer will 
be acceptable. Of course I cant use the original drag link and tie rods 
since it is narrow so I got a rebuilt steering rack from a 1998 Dodge 
Dakota thinking the same width, should be easy to mount. I got it fit up 
and working and all was well until I hit the steering stop. The left 
seal blew on the rack and leaks oil. Tryed another rack same issue. 
Turned the steering pump relief valve down to about 700 psi and thought 
I had it this time but no, when it hits the stop on a right turn, the 
seal began blowing oil out the left side of the rack. there is no 
binding or such and the system can be turned by hand with the engine 
off. I don't understand why it would blow the seal consistently.
I am hoping for some ideas from you all or suggestions of issues I may 
have overlooked, or options instead of the Dakota rack...

Thank you
Jack Boedigheimer
Saint Paul, Oregon
long time lurker....
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From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 16 11:00:09 2012
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Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] Power steering rack
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Jack: 

I used a 75 chev half ton p u front end under my 55-1st p u including its
power steering pump that went well removing 1.25" from the center of the
cross member allowing bolting to the frame using original 75 front end bolt
holes with tapered shim filling space between bottom of frame / x-member
holding original 55 front wheel centerline. Also used the 75 motor mounts
with modifications that somewhat boxed the frame for support.

Per experienced front end mechanic the drag link end & and power steering
pump were shimmed out .62" each from the frame to use the original drag link
as is saying it is now square with something?? concerning the bump steer
issue.
 
Used the drag link as is, cutting .50" off each of the 4 tie rod end
threaded ends & new adjuster sleeves were about .75 shorter than original's
allowing not running out of adjusting threads.

Have not been on the road yet but front end lined up to his satisfaction
with steering fine around parking lots & trailer loading.

Hoping this might help,
Jim
55-1st P u
Eatonville, WA



-----Original Message-----
From: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of boedigheimer
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 10:33 PM
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [Oletrucks] Power steering rack

I am at the end of my rope on this one. In building my 1949 GMC I took a 
79 Chev 3/4 ton front end and narrowed several inches out of the middle. 
It mounted well and looks like cast , camber , toe, and bump steer will 
be acceptable. Of course I cant use the original drag link and tie rods 
since it is narrow so I got a rebuilt steering rack from a 1998 Dodge 
Dakota thinking the same width, should be easy to mount. I got it fit up 
and working and all was well until I hit the steering stop. The left 
seal blew on the rack and leaks oil. Tryed another rack same issue. 
Turned the steering pump relief valve down to about 700 psi and thought 
I had it this time but no, when it hits the stop on a right turn, the 
seal began blowing oil out the left side of the rack. there is no 
binding or such and the system can be turned by hand with the engine 
off. I don't understand why it would blow the seal consistently.
I am hoping for some ideas from you all or suggestions of issues I may 
have overlooked, or options instead of the Dakota rack...

Thank you
Jack Boedigheimer
Saint Paul, Oregon
long time lurker....
_______________________________________________

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From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed May 16 18:33:34 2012
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Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] Power steering rack
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My guess is that you have it set up so the steering rack reaches the end 
of it's travel at a different point than the truck's steering does. You 
might want to see how the steering works in the original application for 
the rack...does it have a stop? or does the rack act as the stop? If the 
rack acts as the stop, and you force it to stop because of how the truck 
is set up, maybe that's the problem.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of boedigheimer
> Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 10:33 PM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Oletrucks] Power steering rack
>
> I am at the end of my rope on this one. In building my 1949 GMC I took a
> 79 Chev 3/4 ton front end and narrowed several inches out of the middle.
> It mounted well and looks like cast , camber , toe, and bump steer will
> be acceptable. Of course I cant use the original drag link and tie rods
> since it is narrow so I got a rebuilt steering rack from a 1998 Dodge
> Dakota thinking the same width, should be easy to mount. I got it fit up
> and working and all was well until I hit the steering stop. The left
> seal blew on the rack and leaks oil. Tryed another rack same issue.
> Turned the steering pump relief valve down to about 700 psi and thought
> I had it this time but no, when it hits the stop on a right turn, the
> seal began blowing oil out the left side of the rack. there is no
> binding or such and the system can be turned by hand with the engine
> off. I don't understand why it would blow the seal consistently.
> I am hoping for some ideas from you all or suggestions of issues I may
> have overlooked, or options instead of the Dakota rack...
>
> Thank you
> Jack Boedigheimer
> Saint Paul, Oregon
> long time lurker....
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Oletrucks mailing list
> Oletrucks@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/oletrucks
>
>
> End of Oletrucks Digest, Vol 4, Issue 22
> ****************************************
>


-- 
Jim

Visit the Selectric Typewriter Museum!
http://selectric.org
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Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] Power steering rack (J Forbes)
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your steering mechanism and your spindle stop are making the rack "end" before it wants to.
either shorten your steering tie rods or allow teh spindle to turn farther.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 13:54:09 -0700
From: J Forbes <jforbnospam@selectric.org>
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] Power steering rack
Message-ID: <4FB413F1.7040802@selectric.org>
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My guess is that you have it set up so the steering rack reaches the end 
of it's travel at a different point than the truck's steering does. You 
might want to see how the steering works in the original application for 
the rack...does it have a stop? or does the rack act as the stop? If the 
rack acts as the stop, and you force it to stop because of how the truck 
is set up, maybe that's the problem.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of boedigheimer
> Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 10:33 PM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Oletrucks] Power steering rack
>
> I am at the end of my rope on this one. In building my 1949 GMC I took a
> 79 Chev 3/4 ton front end and narrowed several inches out of the middle.
> It mounted well and looks like cast , camber , toe, and bump steer will
> be acceptable. Of course I cant use the original drag link and tie rods
> since it is narrow so I got a rebuilt steering rack from a 1998 Dodge
> Dakota thinking the same width, should be easy to mount. I got it fit up
> and working and all was well until I hit the steering stop. The left
> seal blew on the rack and leaks oil. Tryed another rack same issue.
> Turned the steering pump relief valve down to about 700 psi and thought
> I had it this time but no, when it hits the stop on a right turn, the
> seal began blowing oil out the left side of the rack. there is no
> binding or such and the system can be turned by hand with the engine
> off. I don't understand why it would blow the seal consistently.
> I am hoping for some ideas from you all or suggestions of issues I may
> have overlooked, or options instead of the Dakota rack...
>
> Thank you
> Jack Boedigheimer
> Saint Paul, Oregon
> long time lurker....
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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>
> End of Oletrucks Digest, Vol 4, Issue 22
> ****************************************
>


-- 
Jim

Visit the Selectric Typewriter Museum!
http://selectric.org


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From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat May 19 16:22:39 2012
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From: "James Hays" <thomasind@nventure.com>
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Subject: [Oletrucks] P U Rear Splash Pan
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Sure like to know if anyone knows the difference, if any between stock 53
and 54 beds in the area of a splash pan back flange contact.

 

Trying to fit a 47~53 ( I see some parts houses say 47~54 ) rear splash pan
to my 54 P U??  Know when it comes to bumpers you don't want to get excited
until you get the bumper and the  bumper brackets bolted tight but I don't
think this will go due to height of the splash pan back step contacting the
bed rear face x-member ( after market ) too hard. 

 

The 54 bumper does have the center step but am trying with bumper upside
down for size before I modify for the splash pan.

 

Thanks,

Jim

54-1st P U
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