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Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2012 19:08:54 -0400
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] First use for new multimeter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Not its first intended use, but it'll hopefully work for this too:

My living room has a Home Depot/Hampton Bay ceiling fan. The fan has a 
wireless remote that operates the fan and the integrated light. The 
light has stopped working.

I first thought it was the fluorescent bulb (a 9" circline), so I bought 
a new one. No fix.

I also have a Hunter-brand fan that did this same thing, it turned out 
to be the wireless control module in the fan itself that quit working 
(which I cunningly diagnosed by buying a new control module and 
installing it).

So, I bought a new control module for the Hampton Bay fan.  Of course 
it's not that easy--on the Hunter fan, the receiver is an add-on that 
lives under the fan's trim 'bustle' that covers the ball that mounts the 
fan to the ceiling box. On the Hampton Bay, it's actually buried in the 
motor housing and if it's replaceable at all, it's going to require 
complete disassembly of the fan.

So I thought...I've got this new (cheap H-F) multimeter I bought to use 
for some HVAC diagnostics, I'll bet I can see if there's electricity 
coming out of the fan to the bulb, and that will at least tell me before 
I take apart the fan if it is in fact the receiver unit. It might 
be...something else, after all (though probably not). Maybe I just have 
(several) bad bulbs. Or maybe the thing I'll be calling the ballast is bad.

So anyone want to help me electrocute myself? I can get two different 
wire sets to diagnose--a pair (one black, one white) coming out of the 
fan housing and going into a circular thing that lives in the center of 
the circline bulb. Ah--I just read the instructions on the bulb--that's 
the ballast. I assume the power to the ballast is coming directly from 
the receiver/controller unit. If there's power there, I can assume the 
receiver is doing its job. Then from the ballast is a single plug that 
has four holes that plug onto the four prongs on the bulb. If there's 
power there, I just managed to buy several bad bulbs, or more likely, I 
have a intermittent issue which means I'll be just replacing the fan 
(feel free to tell me if I'm wrong here).

What i don't know is what kind and amount of voltage I'm looking for on 
my meter. A/C or D/C? How much should I want to see?

I'm ruling out a bad wiring connection from the house wiring to the unit 
because the fan and the lights use the same power source from the house, 
and the fan works just fine. This really is the same set of symptoms 
that was cured by a new receiver unit on the other one, but man, that 
thing is sealed up tight.

Thanks in advance.

Scott
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  1 19:58:50 2012
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Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2012 20:09:00 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <50930106.8040603@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] First use for new multimeter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Scott,

The voltage out of the receiver should be 120V AC. You can check it at 
that point.

Another way to test it is to bypass the receiver and connect the ballast 
directly to power.

As for the output of the ballast, I wouldn't mess with it. The voltage 
before the fluorescent lights is several thousand volts. This is much 
higher than the top range on your meter. Since you have already tried 
changing the lamp, I suspect that if the voltage coming out of the 
receiver is working that you have a bad ballast.

Do you have another fixture that uses the same size bulb? If so, try 
swapping lamps.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Scott
> Not its first intended use, but it'll hopefully work for this too:
>
> My living room has a Home Depot/Hampton Bay ceiling fan. The fan has a 
> wireless remote that operates the fan and the integrated light. The 
> light has stopped working.
>
> I first thought it was the fluorescent bulb (a 9" circline), so I 
> bought a new one. No fix.
>
> I also have a Hunter-brand fan that did this same thing, it turned out 
> to be the wireless control module in the fan itself that quit working 
> (which I cunningly diagnosed by buying a new control module and 
> installing it).
>
> So, I bought a new control module for the Hampton Bay fan.  Of course 
> it's not that easy--on the Hunter fan, the receiver is an add-on that 
> lives under the fan's trim 'bustle' that covers the ball that mounts 
> the fan to the ceiling box. On the Hampton Bay, it's actually buried 
> in the motor housing and if it's replaceable at all, it's going to 
> require complete disassembly of the fan.
>
> So I thought...I've got this new (cheap H-F) multimeter I bought to 
> use for some HVAC diagnostics, I'll bet I can see if there's 
> electricity coming out of the fan to the bulb, and that will at least 
> tell me before I take apart the fan if it is in fact the receiver 
> unit. It might be...something else, after all (though probably not). 
> Maybe I just have (several) bad bulbs. Or maybe the thing I'll be 
> calling the ballast is bad.
>
> So anyone want to help me electrocute myself? I can get two different 
> wire sets to diagnose--a pair (one black, one white) coming out of the 
> fan housing and going into a circular thing that lives in the center 
> of the circline bulb. Ah--I just read the instructions on the 
> bulb--that's the ballast. I assume the power to the ballast is coming 
> directly from the receiver/controller unit. If there's power there, I 
> can assume the receiver is doing its job. Then from the ballast is a 
> single plug that has four holes that plug onto the four prongs on the 
> bulb. If there's power there, I just managed to buy several bad bulbs, 
> or more likely, I have a intermittent issue which means I'll be just 
> replacing the fan (feel free to tell me if I'm wrong here).
>
> What i don't know is what kind and amount of voltage I'm looking for 
> on my meter. A/C or D/C? How much should I want to see?
>
> I'm ruling out a bad wiring connection from the house wiring to the 
> unit because the fan and the lights use the same power source from the 
> house, and the fan works just fine. This really is the same set of 
> symptoms that was cured by a new receiver unit on the other one, but 
> man, that thing is sealed up tight.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
>
>
>

Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems (512) 797-7501 Voice & Text 5026 FM 2001 
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443 www.hornesystemstx.com -- 
We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  1 22:14:22 2012
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Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2012 19:58:06 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
References: <50930106.8040603@gmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] First use for new multimeter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Scott - Easy thing first.  Do you also have a pull chain that controls 
the light?  Try that switch too.  Someone might have switched it off 
that way instead of the remote.  I expect this is not the case with 
anyone on this list, but the easy stuff sometimes works.

The fans I've worked with typically have three power connections. The 
white is neutral, the black is the fan power, and the red or black with 
strip is the light.

Brian

On 11/1/2012 4:08 PM, Scott wrote:
> Not its first intended use, but it'll hopefully work for this too:
>
> My living room has a Home Depot/Hampton Bay ceiling fan. The fan has a 
> wireless remote that operates the fan and the integrated light. The 
> light has stopped working.
>
> I first thought it was the fluorescent bulb (a 9" circline), so I 
> bought a new one. No fix.
>
> I also have a Hunter-brand fan that did this same thing, it turned out 
> to be the wireless control module in the fan itself that quit working 
> (which I cunningly diagnosed by buying a new control module and 
> installing it).
>
> So, I bought a new control module for the Hampton Bay fan.  Of course 
> it's not that easy--on the Hunter fan, the receiver is an add-on that 
> lives under the fan's trim 'bustle' that covers the ball that mounts 
> the fan to the ceiling box. On the Hampton Bay, it's actually buried 
> in the motor housing and if it's replaceable at all, it's going to 
> require complete disassembly of the fan.
>
> So I thought...I've got this new (cheap H-F) multimeter I bought to 
> use for some HVAC diagnostics, I'll bet I can see if there's 
> electricity coming out of the fan to the bulb, and that will at least 
> tell me before I take apart the fan if it is in fact the receiver 
> unit. It might be...something else, after all (though probably not). 
> Maybe I just have (several) bad bulbs. Or maybe the thing I'll be 
> calling the ballast is bad.
>
> So anyone want to help me electrocute myself? I can get two different 
> wire sets to diagnose--a pair (one black, one white) coming out of the 
> fan housing and going into a circular thing that lives in the center 
> of the circline bulb. Ah--I just read the instructions on the 
> bulb--that's the ballast. I assume the power to the ballast is coming 
> directly from the receiver/controller unit. If there's power there, I 
> can assume the receiver is doing its job. Then from the ballast is a 
> single plug that has four holes that plug onto the four prongs on the 
> bulb. If there's power there, I just managed to buy several bad bulbs, 
> or more likely, I have a intermittent issue which means I'll be just 
> replacing the fan (feel free to tell me if I'm wrong here).
>
> What i don't know is what kind and amount of voltage I'm looking for 
> on my meter. A/C or D/C? How much should I want to see?
>
> I'm ruling out a bad wiring connection from the house wiring to the 
> unit because the fan and the lights use the same power source from the 
> house, and the fan works just fine. This really is the same set of 
> symptoms that was cured by a new receiver unit on the other one, but 
> man, that thing is sealed up tight.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  2 00:19:07 2012
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Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2012 22:21:39 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My wife and I are considering our third Subaru Forester.  We have a 2000 
with 147K miles which is my daily commuter, and my wife has a 2008.  We 
are considering getting a '13 model to replace my 2000. In talking with 
my inde Subaru mechanic (Subaru only, all former dealer mechanics) I 
found the new engine is a DOHC, chain driven cam, shim under bucket 
engine.  So far, no big deal.  I have been riding motorcycle engines 
with that technology for years, although if the valves ever do need an 
adjustment it's going to be ugly. However, apparently Subaru specs 0W-20 
full synthetic oil for the engine.  I was in the local chain auto parts 
store today picking up a couple of H4s and four five liter jugs of 
generic 10w30 that I use in just about everything and I saw that the 
ONLY 0w20 oil was Mobil 1 green cap, and it's REALLY spendy.

We really like our Subarus.  We live in rural Washington and live down 
about 2 miles of steep,  semi-paved former logging road that gets snow 
in the winter some years, and the Subarus are all that keep us mobile.  
Do ya'll think this is anything to worry about? 0w20 just doesn't sound 
right...
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  2 08:35:50 2012
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To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>, Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <50935863.10507@frontier.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
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On 11/2/2012 1:21 AM, Dave C wrote:
> However, apparently Subaru specs 0W-20
> full synthetic oil for the engine.  I was in the local chain auto parts
> store today picking up a couple of H4s and four five liter jugs of
> generic 10w30 that I use in just about everything and I saw that the
> ONLY 0w20 oil was Mobil 1 green cap, and it's REALLY spendy.

The ex-wife has a Scion TC with the same 2.2L 4 that Toyota puts in the 
Camary and probably other stuff. They spec'ed 0W20 for use in all 
climates except the hottest part of summer.  IIRC, I ran 0W20 in the 
winter & 5W30 in the summer. Castrol sells 0W20 in the regular GTX, and 
their synthetic blend.
I believe there are two reasons why manufacturers are going to super 
light oils: 1) they help make the EPA gas mileage numbers test better, 
possibly at the expense of higher engine wear.  2) Engines really are 
built to MUCH tighter tolerances & clearances then they used to be. 
Cylinder & bearing clearances of only a few the-thousandths are common.

-W
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 09:44:37 -0400
From: Ian McFetridge <shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm no expert, but I think they go to the thinner synthetic oil to increase
mileage by decreasing drag on the reciprocating parts.  I imagine you could
swap 10W30 dino and get the first oil change analyzed to see if there is an
issue (again, not an expert!).  or maybe extend the change intervals to
make the synthetic more economical.

 I run Mobil 1 in our cars, but only change the oil every 15k on the
toyota, v8 4runner, which makes the synthetic a bit more economical.  I buy
the oil in 5qt cans at Walmart.  I had been testing the oil with
Blackstone, but it always came back saying I could go longer between
changes based on the amount of additive pack that remained.  Our other cars
get free oil changes when the idiot light comes on, but they seem to go at
least 10k miles between changes -- maybe that's another reason some
manufacturers spec synthetics.

- Ian

On Fri, Nov 2, 2012 at 1:21 AM, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:

> My wife and I are considering our third Subaru Forester.  We have a 2000
> with 147K miles which is my daily commuter, and my wife has a 2008.  We are
> considering getting a '13 model to replace my 2000. In talking with my inde
> Subaru mechanic (Subaru only, all former dealer mechanics) I found the new
> engine is a DOHC, chain driven cam, shim under bucket engine.  So far, no
> big deal.  I have been riding motorcycle engines with that technology for
> years, although if the valves ever do need an adjustment it's going to be
> ugly. However, apparently Subaru specs 0W-20 full synthetic oil for the
> engine.  I was in the local chain auto parts store today picking up a
> couple of H4s and four five liter jugs of generic 10w30 that I use in just
> about everything and I saw that the ONLY 0w20 oil was Mobil 1 green cap,
> and it's REALLY spendy.
>
> We really like our Subarus.  We live in rural Washington and live down
> about 2 miles of steep,  semi-paved former logging road that gets snow in
> the winter some years, and the Subarus are all that keep us mobile.  Do
> ya'll think this is anything to worry about? 0w20 just doesn't sound
> right...
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/shop-talk/shop-talk2@**mcfetridge.org<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2@mcfetridge.org>
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 13:45:19 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like they are reaching for CAFE numbers.  I'd use 5w20 or 5w30, whichever is available, full synthetic from Valvoline, Mobil or Castrol.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave C" <cavanadd@frontier.com>
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, November 2, 2012 12:21:39 AM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
> My wife and I are considering our third Subaru Forester. We have a
> 2000
> with 147K miles which is my daily commuter, and my wife has a 2008. We
> are considering getting a '13 model to replace my 2000. In talking
> with
> my inde Subaru mechanic (Subaru only, all former dealer mechanics) I
> found the new engine is a DOHC, chain driven cam, shim under bucket
> engine. So far, no big deal. I have been riding motorcycle engines
> with that technology for years, although if the valves ever do need an
> adjustment it's going to be ugly. However, apparently Subaru specs
> 0W-20
> full synthetic oil for the engine. I was in the local chain auto parts
> store today picking up a couple of H4s and four five liter jugs of
> generic 10w30 that I use in just about everything and I saw that the
> ONLY 0w20 oil was Mobil 1 green cap, and it's REALLY spendy.
> 
> We really like our Subarus. We live in rural Washington and live down
> about 2 miles of steep, semi-paved former logging road that gets snow
> in the winter some years, and the Subarus are all that keep us mobile.
> Do ya'll think this is anything to worry about? 0w20 just doesn't
> sound
> right...
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier@comcast.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  2 08:42:07 2012
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Dave C" <cavanadd@frontier.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <50935863.10507@frontier.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 09:45:33 -0400
	a=P2oOn6vrs4wA:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10 a=S2wpYzp2RsyRkoRNwqcm1Q==:17
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I suspect as the demand for 0w-20 oils increases (many new cars are 
specifying very light oils) other oil companies will come out with 0w-20 
oils (helping to keep prices down).

Any Red Line dealers local to you?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=124&pcid=21

Are you willing to check prices at WalMart?

What is about 0w-20 that concerns you other than the price? If the engine is 
designed for it it the light weight shouldn't be a worry. This is not 1930's 
technology in a 1950's engine in a 1970's MG...

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave C"

> I saw that the ONLY 0w20 oil was Mobil 1 green cap, and it's REALLY 
> spendy.
>
>  0w20 just doesn't sound  right...
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  2 10:12:12 2012
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Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 11:04:43 -0400
From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've had cars that spec 0W-20 for a few years now, so I guess the shock has
worn off. I still worry that it can hold up to the Florida heat, but they
spec-ed it, so I have to assume they've done their homework.

As far as availability, there are plenty of options. I use Mobil 1, but I
remember seeing others.

Based on just the cars we have, I assume 0W-20 is going to be the new
standard. It apparently does a lot for fuel efficiency and tolerances are a
lot closer in engines now.

Scott
On Nov 2, 2012 2:21 AM, "Dave C" <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:

> My wife and I are considering our third Subaru Forester.  We have a 2000
> with 147K miles which is my daily commuter, and my wife has a 2008.  We are
> considering getting a '13 model to replace my 2000. In talking with my inde
> Subaru mechanic (Subaru only, all former dealer mechanics) I found the new
> engine is a DOHC, chain driven cam, shim under bucket engine.  So far, no
> big deal.  I have been riding motorcycle engines with that technology for
> years, although if the valves ever do need an adjustment it's going to be
> ugly. However, apparently Subaru specs 0W-20 full synthetic oil for the
> engine.  I was in the local chain auto parts store today picking up a
> couple of H4s and four five liter jugs of generic 10w30 that I use in just
> about everything and I saw that the ONLY 0w20 oil was Mobil 1 green cap,
> and it's REALLY spendy.
>
> We really like our Subarus.  We live in rural Washington and live down
> about 2 miles of steep,  semi-paved former logging road that gets snow in
> the winter some years, and the Subarus are all that keep us mobile.  Do
> ya'll think this is anything to worry about? 0w20 just doesn't sound
> right...
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/shop-talk/scott.hall.**personal@gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  2 10:15:05 2012
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Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 11:19:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
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Howdy,

On Fri, 2 Nov 2012, pethier@comcast.net wrote:
> Sounds like they are reaching for CAFE numbers.  I'd use 5w20 or 5w30, 
> whichever is available, full synthetic from Valvoline, Mobil or Castrol.

I'd trust the engineers that built the motor, rather than a bunch of 
internet experts (even GOOD internet experts like we have here!  :-)

The only real question is if the engineers got overridden by someone with 
a concern that doesn't match yours.  I think in the case of "what oil does 
the motor want", that's less likely.

Mark
_______________________________________________

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References: <50935863.10507@frontier.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 12:46:28 -0400
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The trend to lower viscosity oils is to reduce the power used to pump the
oil improving fuel economy.  Thinner oil pumps easier.  I have seem some
articles expressing concern about the impact of lower viscosity oil on
engine longevity, but as others have said you have to assume the engine OEM
engineers (and I am one) have assessed that impact and convinced themselves
that the engine will still meet useful life targets with the specified
oil.

That said, passenger car useful life targets are typically 120-140,000
miles.  Most OEMs would say they met their target if 90% of the engines
that had the specified maintenance on a "typical" duty cycle lasted that
long.  If your duty cycle is more severe than "typical" (and that can be
too low a load or too high a load) or you don't maintain it per the
schedule then you're likely to get lower life.  Less stressful duty cycles
will make the engine last longer, but there is a point where increased
maintenance isn't better.  I had a long argument while working a curve at
an autocross with a guy who was convinced that running high loads was good
for an engine.  Not true.  For example, a combine engine, with a duty cycle
that's 90% full load and 10% idle, will likely have a useful life (measured
in hours) that's 1/3 that of the same engine installed in an urban delivery
truck.  Of course all idle and never warming the engine up will also cause
reduced life.  In the end this is the literal meaning of YMMV.

Personally, the 0W20 and 5W20 scares me a little and so far I've stuck with
5W30.

Ben.....


On Fri, Nov 2, 2012 at 1:21 AM, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:

> My wife and I are considering our third Subaru Forester.  We have a 2000
> with 147K miles which is my daily commuter, and my wife has a 2008.  We are
> considering getting a '13 model to replace my 2000. In talking with my inde
> Subaru mechanic (Subaru only, all former dealer mechanics) I found the new
> engine is a DOHC, chain driven cam, shim under bucket engine.  So far, no
> big deal.  I have been riding motorcycle engines with that technology for
> years, although if the valves ever do need an adjustment it's going to be
> ugly. However, apparently Subaru specs 0W-20 full synthetic oil for the
> engine.  I was in the local chain auto parts store today picking up a
> couple of H4s and four five liter jugs of generic 10w30 that I use in just
> about everything and I saw that the ONLY 0w20 oil was Mobil 1 green cap,
> and it's REALLY spendy.
>
> We really like our Subarus.  We live in rural Washington and live down
> about 2 miles of steep,  semi-paved former logging road that gets snow in
> the winter some years, and the Subarus are all that keep us mobile.  Do
> ya'll think this is anything to worry about? 0w20 just doesn't sound
> right...
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  2 12:34:49 2012
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <50935863.10507@frontier.com>
	<CAK73_u4_dMMZwPnj==oav=zanOChs4NkGJKGajUYUYXWSP821Q@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 12:46:30 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

It could be that the '0' scares us because we have not seen it before. We 
need to remember that the '0' does not mean "does not have any viscosity", 
only that the SAE viscosity index stops there.

Page 11 of this ... http://www.oil-power.com/downloads/ViscTutor.pdf ... 
indicates that had some other index been used we could have numbers that 
would also be new to us ... we had not used that low a number before ... but 
the numbers would not as psychologically scary as 'zero'.

Maybe in the future the marketing department will see that 'zero' scares 
people and they will petition the standards board for corrective action and 
'zero' will become '100' under the new index ;-} Or maybe the motor 
engineers will make motors that will tolerate even lower viscosities and SAE 
will come up with  a -5W [that is minus 5W] to adjust an index as it not 
longer reflecting the needs.

Arvid 
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Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 22:03:31 -0400
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
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Just to echo what I hope others have said, 0W20 is just numbers.  It is slightly thinner when cold than say, 5W20; and slightly thinner all the time than 5W30.  It will work fine, and perhaps save you a little bit on fuel costs.

If you want to run 5W30 oil, it won't hurt anything except perhaps burn a bit more fuel.  Just be sure to still use synthetic.

A little poking around on the Internet shows Mobil 1 0W20 for around $9/qt, which is only slightly higher than most synthetics (I generally have to pay around $7.50 unless I wait for a loss leader sale).

Check your local Wally-mart.  Their web site doesn't list a price, but if they carry it in the 5 qt jugs it will likely be a lot cheaper than the per-quart price at other places.

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  2 21:41:16 2012
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From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
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Thanks for all the comments.  As Randall (and others) pointed out, it's 
just numbers, and I guess I will have to get used to it.  I checked the 
owners manual on-line and it specs 0W20 synth and nothing else 
regardless of operating temperature, but interestingly, the turbo 
version specs 5W20.  I also did a little poking around on one of the 
Forester forums and a lot of people seem to be buying their oil at Wally 
World, so I guess I'll have to check that out, too.


On 11/2/2012 7:03 PM, Randall wrote:
> Just to echo what I hope others have said, 0W20 is just numbers.  It is slightly thinner when cold than say, 5W20; and slightly thinner all the time than 5W30.  It will work fine, and perhaps save you a little bit on fuel costs.
>
> If you want to run 5W30 oil, it won't hurt anything except perhaps burn a bit more fuel.  Just be sure to still use synthetic.
>
> A little poking around on the Internet shows Mobil 1 0W20 for around $9/qt, which is only slightly higher than most synthetics (I generally have to pay around $7.50 unless I wait for a loss leader sale).
>
> Check your local Wally-mart.  Their web site doesn't list a price, but if they carry it in the 5 qt jugs it will likely be a lot cheaper than the per-quart price at other places.
>
> Randall
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <50935863.10507@frontier.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2012 19:38:57 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac24wlfP4+msiwnKQHSTeP93P/A5DAAqDnIw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Oil, again
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Dave,

The manufacturer does know what he is doing, but some of the low viscosity
oil push is for mileage too.  If you are west of the Cascades, I'd not be
concerned about bumping up to a 5w20.

Once you are out of warrantee, use the synthetic, but extend the intervals
to make the synthetic more affordable.  I've gone to annual changes on all
of my cars, using Mobil 1.  The only variance on this theme is my wife's
Volvo XC90.  It's a 2.5 liter straight 5 turbo engine in an SUV and after a
year an oil analysis showed that the Aluminum and steel count was a tad
high, so I switched to Redline and the numbers are back to being OK.  The
Mobil 1 just didn't hold up for 15k in the turbo engine, but it's fine in
everything else I own and has been since 1981, when I switched to Mobil 1
and annual changes.

It's been 30+ years of annual (spring) oil changes, several cars have come
and gone and I know I'm doing the right thing.  It's less expensive, less
work and works just fine.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave C
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 10:22 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Oil, again

My wife and I are considering our third Subaru Forester.  We have a 2000 
with 147K miles which is my daily commuter, and my wife has a 2008.  We 
are considering getting a '13 model to replace my 2000. In talking with 
my inde Subaru mechanic (Subaru only, all former dealer mechanics) I 
found the new engine is a DOHC, chain driven cam, shim under bucket 
engine.  So far, no big deal.  I have been riding motorcycle engines 
with that technology for years, although if the valves ever do need an 
adjustment it's going to be ugly. However, apparently Subaru specs 0W-20 
full synthetic oil for the engine.  I was in the local chain auto parts 
store today picking up a couple of H4s and four five liter jugs of 
generic 10w30 that I use in just about everything and I saw that the 
ONLY 0w20 oil was Mobil 1 green cap, and it's REALLY spendy.

We really like our Subarus.  We live in rural Washington and live down 
about 2 miles of steep,  semi-paved former logging road that gets snow 
in the winter some years, and the Subarus are all that keep us mobile.  
Do ya'll think this is anything to worry about? 0w20 just doesn't sound 
right...
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  3 12:34:54 2012
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From: "Mark Miller" <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oil viscosity
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   1. Re: Oil, again (Eric J Russell)

Another thing to consider is that thinner oils pump far better at startup
than thicker oils. You are lubricating with the first crank of the starter
and the oil is flowing where it needs to go that much sooner.  This will
help with engine life.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 19:58:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Need a new multimeter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

They are a little pricey and "old school," but it is my favorite meter.  

http://www.simpsonelectric.com/index.asp?p=Products&id=30&sid=40&ss=31

a little history about Simpson meters:

http://www.simpsonelectric.com/index.asp?p=About_Simpson_Electric&s=History
 






________________________________
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, October 30, 2012 7:30:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Need a new multimeter

On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 at 9:39 PM, Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> wrote:
> So who likes their meter and what kind do you have?


At work, I've got a variety of Fluke meters; a Fluke 77* comes to mind
as well as a simpler one like the Fluke 113.

But at home, I have a Radio Shack knockoff, as well as a Horrible
Freight $4.99 special.

The Flukes feel great, and you can drop 'em.  You can drop the HF one,
too, and then you can afford to buy another without feeling bad.

*EDIT:  It's a Fluke 73.  Still a hoss...
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  4 19:36:59 2012
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Need a new multimeter
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On 10/30/2012 7:58 PM, old dirtbeard wrote:
> They are a little pricey and "old school," but it is my favorite meter.
>
> http://www.simpsonelectric.com/index.asp?p=Products&id=30&sid=40&ss=31

I'll just note I've had decent luck buying used Fluke and Wavetek stuff 
off eBay...

John.
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] engine code web site
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HI all.

My 96 S10 (2WD 4.3V6) has the SES light on. I borrowed my friend's code 
reader and got P0000. What do you all use for a web site that deciphers 
these codes?

I have done some searching but not found a really good web site I like 
nor have I found one that shows this particular code.

Thanks!
tim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  5 13:16:46 2012
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Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2012 12:54:04 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] engine code web site
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P0000 ?  Are you sure?  My S10 manual doesn't have any code like that 
listed.

mjb.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  5 17:10:05 2012
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Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 18:54:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] engine code web site
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"SES" is Service Engine Soon to answer one question.

Based on the replies, I guess it is time to get my own reader.

Thanks all.
tim


On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 1:06 PM, Tim wrote:

> HI all.
>
> My 96 S10 (2WD 4.3V6) has the SES light on. I borrowed my friend's 
> code reader and got P0000. What do you all use for a web site that 
> deciphers these codes?
>
> I have done some searching but not found a really good web site I like 
> nor have I found one that shows this particular code.
>
> Thanks!
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland@charter.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  5 17:43:16 2012
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 00:18:23 GMT
To: tputland@charter.net
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] engine code web site
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I found a useful .pdf that has all the GM codes at:
http://www.edgeproducts.com/product_images/customer_support_article-pdf-40.pd
f

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] engine code web site
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2012 14:06:20 -0500 (EST)

HI all.

My 96 S10 (2WD 4.3V6) has the SES light on. I borrowed my friend's code
reader and got P0000. What do you all use for a web site that deciphers
these codes?

I have done some searching but not found a really good web site I like
nor have I found one that shows this particular code.

Thanks!
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre@juno.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  5 18:28:12 2012
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From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] engine code web site
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On 11/5/2012 7:18 PM, Matt wrote:
> I found a useful .pdf that has all the GM codes at:
> http://www.edgeproducts.com/product_images/customer_support_article-pdf-40.pdf

Nice reference! Thanks, Matt.

If you look at the coding structure explained there, any of the codes 
with a zero in the 2nd position (thousands digit) are standard across 
all manufacturers and cars, so it's not just a GM reference. Not every 
car is able to monitor every one of those, but a given code means the 
same thing on any car it pops up on. OBD-II also standardized the 
nomenclature for all the parts & controls. Seemed kinda draconian when 
it came out nearly 20 years ago, but in retrospect, it's a good idea and 
actually makes it easier for DIYers and small time shops to work on 
modern vehicles (vs having to have a manufacturer specific reader for 
each one.)

-Wayne
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  5 18:28:44 2012
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To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] engine code web site
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I googled "obd code p0000" and got 7 million hits. Appears to indicate 
"no problems, no codes stored."

I bought this little $20 scanner and it does all the basic stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0KZ-0002-00002

Used it on Mom's 2003 BMW 5' and a friend's 2007 Nissan Sentra. It will 
read out the standardized "basic" set of mandated codes, clear the 
codes, and reset the MIL. It was able the reset the BMW's "service soon" 
light (tune up indicator) but wouldn't reset the "change oil" light. 
Also does not do the fancy stuff like auto-trans, ABS, air-bags etc; you 
gotta spend a bunch more to get all that!

-Wayne

On 11/5/2012 6:54 PM, Tim wrote:
> "SES" is Service Engine Soon to answer one question.
> Based on the replies, I guess it is time to get my own reader.
>
> Thanks all.
> tim
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 1:06 PM, Tim wrote:
>
>> HI all.
>>
>> My 96 S10 (2WD 4.3V6) has the SES light on. I borrowed my friend's
>> code reader and got P0000. What do you all use for a web site that
>> deciphers these codes?
>>
>> I have done some searching but not found a really good web site I like
>> nor have I found one that shows this particular code.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> tim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  6 06:02:52 2012
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Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 07:33:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] engine code web site
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bI found a useful .pdf that has all the GM codes atb&b
This is great, thanks!

bWhat part of the world are you located in?b
Near Madison, WI. Why?

bI bought this little $20 scannerb&b
Can I assume it will read GM codes?

bYou gotta spend a bunch more to get all that!b
Am hoping to not have to spend too much but will in order to get one
that will do what I need it too.

Thanks all!
tim



On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 5:54 PM, Tim wrote:

> "SES" is Service Engine Soon to answer one question.
>
> Based on the replies, I guess it is time to get my own reader.
>
> Thanks all.
> tim
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 1:06 PM, Tim wrote:
>
>> HI all.
>>
>> My 96 S10 (2WD 4.3V6) has the SES light on. I borrowed my friend's
>> code reader and got P0000. What do you all use for a web site that
>> deciphers these codes?
>>
>> I have done some searching but not found a really good web site I
>> like nor have I found one that shows this particular code.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> tim
>> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  6 07:22:17 2012
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 13:51:56 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] engine diagnostics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

When I got my first relatively inexpensive code reader, I thought "great, now
I can peer into the control systems and maintain all my cars!"  It didn't take
long before I realized that wasn't necessarily the case.  OBD was reasonable
regulation attempting to standardize trouble reporting and while us shadetree
folks made out well, the justification for guvment monkeying with the private
enterprise of auto manufacturing was emissions.  Beyond a common interface and
the mandated basic tuning/emissions requirements, there was no attempt to
standardize the rest of how your car's computer operated & reported. While you
can get basic code readers out of Asia for under $30, the growth of software
in automotive function and control reveals that there is a whole lot more
going on than what basic trouble codes reveal.  I think the answer will be
(is) an OBD to USB cable and instead of a dedicated reader, the secret sauce
will be the softwware that runs on your laptop.  That is what I had to get for
my VWs and it is called VAG-COM.  The capability/flexibility afforded by this
set up is amazing but it isn't cheap - yet.  Certainly cheaper than a big
brand specific diagnostic machine that garages had to buy in the "olden" days.
To combat the eventuality of a $20 cable and bootlegged software, they are
placing a chip in the cable and the full-capability, supported software looks
for the chip before it will work.  I guess it is simply too much to ask for
all car manufacturers to use common or open source programming for their
products.  With no incentive, why would they? MB
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  6 08:07:32 2012
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <20121106.085156.25401.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] engine diagnostics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 11/6/2012 8:51 AM, Matt wrote:
> can get basic code readers out of Asia for under $30, the growth of software
> in automotive function and control reveals that there is a whole lot more
> going on than what basic trouble codes reveal.  I think the answer will be
> (is) an OBD to USB cable and instead of a dedicated reader, the secret sauce

Yeah, putting it in software seems like it should make it easy & cheap. Know of any? There were a bunch of free-ware ones for my old pre-OBDII Nissans. Surprised there seem to be none for new stuff (but I haven't looked very hard.)

> That is what I had to get for my VWs and it is called VAG-COM.

Setting new standards in ease of communication with otherwise difficult to comprehend females! :)

-Wayne
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From: "gordies garage" <mg_garage@comcast.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20121106.085156.25401.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 10:01:14 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] engine diagnostics
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'll second an interface like VAG-COM.
I paid $99 about 11 yrs ago and have upgraded my dongle (cable USB 
interface) for about $40 IIRC.  I know I've saved hundreds if not thousands 
over the years on my '98 A4 and '03 A6 by being able to read the codes and 
take corrective action only if necessary, and clear the code for something 
unimportant.
One can also do some fun stuff like change the locking (ie: all unlock with 
one button push) and/or close all windows and sunroof with the lock button.
I believe as an investment in a tool that VAG-COM is well worth the money.
my .02

Gordie Bird


--------------------------------------------------
From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2012 8:51 AM
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] engine diagnostics

> When I got my first relatively inexpensive code reader, I thought "great, 
> now
> I can peer into the control systems and maintain all my cars!"  It didn't 
> take
> long before I realized that wasn't necessarily the case.  OBD was 
> reasonable
> regulation attempting to standardize trouble reporting and while us 
> shadetree
> folks made out well, the justification for guvment monkeying with the 
> private
> enterprise of auto manufacturing was emissions.  Beyond a common interface 
> and
> the mandated basic tuning/emissions requirements, there was no attempt to
> standardize the rest of how your car's computer operated & reported. While 
> you
> can get basic code readers out of Asia for under $30, the growth of 
> software
> in automotive function and control reveals that there is a whole lot more
> going on than what basic trouble codes reveal.  I think the answer will be
> (is) an OBD to USB cable and instead of a dedicated reader, the secret 
> sauce
> will be the softwware that runs on your laptop.  That is what I had to get 
> for
> my VWs and it is called VAG-COM.  The capability/flexibility afforded by 
> this
> set up is amazing but it isn't cheap - yet.  Certainly cheaper than a big
> brand specific diagnostic machine that garages had to buy in the "olden" 
> days.
> To combat the eventuality of a $20 cable and bootlegged software, they are
> placing a chip in the cable and the full-capability, supported software 
> looks
> for the chip before it will work.  I guess it is simply too much to ask 
> for
> all car manufacturers to use common or open source programming for their
> products.  With no incentive, why would they? MB
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mg_garage@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  6 08:57:39 2012
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20121106.085156.25401.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 07:32:26 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac28KmFCruMxQ1lfTFeXAvackxXx9QABhEWw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] engine diagnostics
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> To combat the eventuality of a $20 cable and bootlegged 
> software, they are
> placing a chip in the cable and the full-capability, 
> supported software looks
> for the chip before it will work.

Actually, that chip is a fairly sophisticated microprocessor, with the
integrated hardware controllers required to talk to CAN bus (OBD-II) on one
side, and USB bus on the other.  They are very different interfaces; and CAN
in particular is a very odd network protocol.

The ones sold to garage mechanics are also quite limited in functionality.
We just bought some more of the "good stuff" at work, and they were nearly
$2000 each just for the hardware and software library to communicate with
it.

>   I guess it is simply too 
> much to ask for
> all car manufacturers to use common or open source 
> programming for their
> products.  With no incentive, why would they?

There are in fact powerful disincentives not to.  There is a great deal of
money spent on developing that software and it changes pretty much
constantly.  Giving away source code that cost literally tens or even
hundreds of millions of dollars to develop and can benefit only one's
competitors just isn't going to happen.

But you are quite right, those diagnostic addresses are only the tip of the
iceberg for what is actually going on inside.  I spend a good deal of my
professional life writing CAN bus code; and diagnostic addresses are just
something that gets stuck on afterwards, to help troubleshoot problems in
the field.  That's pretty much the way it has to be, since a DA can only be
updated at 10 Hz or so, but practically any control loop (ignition, fuel,
ABS, etc) has to run much faster.  We run up to 1 kHz in software, faster
loops are done in (custom) hardware.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  6 14:56:32 2012
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From: "Jo Mullen" <ElanS4@cox.net>
To: "'John Miller'" <jem@milleredp.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 16:34:41 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac26/qLVbrT1JH2PSS+qd6r89JytvwBZ34rg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Need a new multimeter
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For what it's worth, I too have a good Fluke meter.  It stays in my tool box
and is used when exact measurements are needed.

I also have a couple of the cheap Harbor Freight meters.  They get tossed
around, kkept in the junk drawer in the kitchen, in the subset of tools kept
in the trunk, etc.  They work well when you are looking for continunity, or
voltage, or a gross reading of resistance.

Both have their place.

Tim Mullen
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 05:34:00 2012
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Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 07:06:35 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Massachusetts "Right to Repair" Ballot Initiative
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A political topic that is actually relevant to this list!

I just noticed this, which apparently passed overwhelmingly:


http://ballotpedia.org/wiki/index.php/Massachusetts_%22Right_to_Repair%22_Initiative,_Question_1_%282012%29

Doug
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  7 09:13:06 2012
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop-Talk'" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOtbU9UbLJag7hJV7hSWap3ju9vgpFJuUhEw++OkdcNfGS_LTg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 07:42:57 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Massachusetts "Right to Repair" Ballot  Initiative
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> I just noticed this, which apparently passed overwhelmingly:

It's interesting, but I can't see that it changes anything, much.  They are
allowed to charge "fair market value" for the information, which could
easily be a lot more than I'd be willing to pay (eg $50,000 per year is
pretty reasonable if you are selling 100 cars a month); and information
pertaining to alarm systems or "trade secrets" is expressly excluded.
Anything they haven't already published could likely be considered a "trade
secret".

How many independent shops, let alone individual owners even drop $500 on a
set of manufacturer service manuals? 

And I'm guessing that the EPA will balk at the idea of letting any car owner
know how to dirty up their exhaust, meaning it will be overturned fairly
easily.  Interstate commerce and all that.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<0fb001cdbcfe$8fadf5b0$0601a8c0@randall>
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 07:46:53 -0600
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, shop-talk List <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Massachusetts "Right to Repair" Ballot Initiative
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Nov 7, 2012, at 9:42 AM, "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> I just noticed this, which apparently passed overwhelmingly:
>
> It's interesting, but I can't see that it changes anything, much.  They are
> allowed to charge "fair market value" for the information, which could
> easily be a lot more than I'd be willing to pay (eg $50,000 per year is
> pretty reasonable if you are selling 100 cars a month); and information
> pertaining to alarm systems or "trade secrets" is expressly excluded.
> Anything they haven't already published could likely be considered a "trade
> secret".
>
> How many independent shops, let alone individual owners even drop $500 on a
> set of manufacturer service manuals?
>
> And I'm guessing that the EPA will balk at the idea of letting any car
owner
> know how to dirty up their exhaust, meaning it will be overturned fairly
> easily.  Interstate commerce and all that.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 17:39:51 2012
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 19:31:31 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Shop Vac
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

I am growing weary of my 12-year old, fairly cheap Sears shop vac.  It's
starting to fall apart.
Can anybody recommend a good replacement (or ones to avoid)?
I'm not looking for some giant fancy thing, but one that is not a hassle to
use, not too noisy, and will
not fall apart.  I tend to do a lot of little 30-second vacuuming jobs,
mostly with a hand brush as
opposed to a floor wand/brush.

Thanks,

Doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 18:09:39 2012
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Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2012 19:53:35 -0500
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>, Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOtbU9V-ZwafZhAE7CJXhUy+qZXZ41vfiJZ0TBEVUq5FK4i28A@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop Vac
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 11/9/2012 7:31 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> I am growing weary of my 12-year old, fairly cheap Sears shop vac.  It's
> starting to fall apart.
> Can anybody recommend a good replacement (or ones to avoid)?

I think there are really only two major manufacturers. Actual "Shop Vac" 
brand, which most people say is lousy. And Ridgid, which sells under 
their own name (@ Home Depot & elsewhere) and also appears to make 
Sears'. There are some esoteric brands with absurdly high (multi-hundred 
dollar) price tags, but you'd have to be an every day finish carpenter 
or similar to justify them.

I have a Ridgid 12gal one from H.D. that's worked well for 4+ years. The 
local H.D. has it (well, pretty much the same one) on holiday sale right 
now for $70 (same I paid years ago) AND it comes with more accessories 
than I got for the price (floor brush & squeegee nozzles). I can't say 
it's quiet, but it is improved -- a lot less shrill or high-pitched than 
the older Sears I had.

I like mine to be easy to move around, so I don't like the huge tank 
models. Who needs 20+ gallons liquid capacity? That's what a pump is 
for! Unfortunately, the mini-sized ones don't have all that much 
suction. The Ridgid is a good in between size for me.

-W
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 18:11:10 2012
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From: Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 18:55:38 -0600
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop Vac
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I got one of these a while ago to supplement the bigger vacs that never seem
to be where I and the dirt are. I find it handy to store and easy to grab,
plug in and use plus it seems to be quite powerful for the size.

http://www.homedepot.com/Appliances-Vacuum-Cleaners-Floor-Care-Wet-Dry-Vacuum
s/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbv79/R-203235053/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1
&storeId=10051#.UJ2kamt5mSM

On Nov 9, 2012, at 6:31 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I am growing weary of my 12-year old, fairly cheap Sears shop vac.  It's
> starting to fall apart.
> Can anybody recommend a good replacement (or ones to avoid)?
> I'm not looking for some giant fancy thing, but one that is not a hassle to
> use, not too noisy, and will
> not fall apart.  I tend to do a lot of little 30-second vacuuming jobs,
> mostly with a hand brush as
> opposed to a floor wand/brush.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj@visi.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  9 18:26:47 2012
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Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2012 16:59:08 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
References: <CAOtbU9V-ZwafZhAE7CJXhUy+qZXZ41vfiJZ0TBEVUq5FK4i28A@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop Vac
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Doug - Both Lowes and Home Depot typically have a shop vac or two as a 
black Friday special for a very low price.  I picked up a Ridgid one to 
replace my failing 15 year old ShopVac screamer.  It had a larger 
diameter hose which makes for fewer clogs.  It also is easy to switch 
from suck to blow which either cleans out the hose or helps clean up the 
work area.

Lowes has part of their stuff out - was$89, will be $39.
http://www.theblackfriday.com/ads/lowes/lowes-black-friday-ad1.shtml.


Brian

On 11/9/2012 4:31 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I am growing weary of my 12-year old, fairly cheap Sears shop vac.  It's
> starting to fall apart.
> Can anybody recommend a good replacement (or ones to avoid)?
> I'm not looking for some giant fancy thing, but one that is not a hassle to
> use, not too noisy, and will
> not fall apart.  I tend to do a lot of little 30-second vacuuming jobs,
> mostly with a hand brush as
> opposed to a floor wand/brush.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From: "Mullen" <ElanS4@cox.net>
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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 22:18:38 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop Vac
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On the subject of shop vacs, many years ago, I bought the handiest accessory
for my nearly 30-year-old Craftsman vac.  It is a new hose - a hose that is
about 15-20 feet long.  Makes it extremely handy for most tasks, as you do
not have to move the vac around very much, if at all.

It is also one of the large diameter hoses (what? 2 inches instead of the
normal 1 1/2 inch hose?)

Tim Mullen
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 23:02:45 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Mullen <ElanS4@cox.net>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop Vac
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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This long-hose model from Sears looks interesting:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-remote-control-wall-mount-5.0-peak-hp/p-00916825000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

It has a wall-mounting bracket, and at the end of the hose there is a
remote control switch, so
you can turn it on and off where you are working, instead of having to walk
back to the main unit.

Doug

On Fri, Nov 9, 2012 at 10:18 PM, Mullen <ElanS4@cox.net> wrote:

> On the subject of shop vacs, many years ago, I bought the handiest
> accessory
> for my nearly 30-year-old Craftsman vac.  It is a new hose - a hose that is
> about 15-20 feet long.  Makes it extremely handy for most tasks, as you do
> not have to move the vac around very much, if at all.
>
> It is also one of the large diameter hoses (what? 2 inches instead of the
> normal 1 1/2 inch hose?)
>
> Tim Mullen
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
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Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2012 23:24:12 -0500
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop Vac
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On 11/9/2012 11:02 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> This long-hose model from Sears looks interesting:
> http://www.sears.com/craftsman-remote-control-wall-mount-5.0-peak-hp/p-00916825000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

Wow, 5HP @ 120V. That takes around 32 amps. Didn't they ban BS HP 
claims, or get sued over them a few years ago???

-w
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To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop Vac
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On Nov 9, 2012, at 11:24 PM, Wayne wrote:

>
> Wow, 5HP @ 120V. That takes around 32 amps. Didn't they ban BS HP claims, or
get sued over them a few years ago???

That's 5hp potential in the unburned fuel at the electrical plant :-)

I have a large Rigid (ahem) and a 1gal ShopVac. Both have been for for years
although both are quite loud. The 1 gal sounds right for your application
though it's torquey enough to spin itself if you don't hold it.

Quiet costs. WAP makes a nice one.

You could always locate the vacuum remotely like  central vacuum system but
that's fancy...
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 08:00:19 -0500
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop Vac
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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A lot of my 'online car buddies' have these:

http://www.bissell.com/garage-pro-wet-dry-vacuum/

And they're very well reviewed on the forums.  They all bought them
extremely cheap through a friend that works at Bissell.  I missed out on
the deal and I'm kicking myself for it.

-Paul P.


On Fri, Nov 9, 2012 at 11:02 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> This long-hose model from Sears looks interesting:
>
>
> http://www.sears.com/craftsman-remote-control-wall-mount-5.0-peak-hp/p-00916825000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4
>
> It has a wall-mounting bracket, and at the end of the hose there is a
> remote control switch, so
> you can turn it on and off where you are working, instead of having to walk
> back to the main unit.
>
> Doug
>
> On Fri, Nov 9, 2012 at 10:18 PM, Mullen <ElanS4@cox.net> wrote:
>
> > On the subject of shop vacs, many years ago, I bought the handiest
> > accessory
> > for my nearly 30-year-old Craftsman vac.  It is a new hose - a hose that
> is
> > about 15-20 feet long.  Makes it extremely handy for most tasks, as you
> do
> > not have to move the vac around very much, if at all.
> >
> > It is also one of the large diameter hoses (what? 2 inches instead of the
> > normal 1 1/2 inch hose?)
> >
> > Tim Mullen
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/parkanzky@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 10 07:19:44 2012
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: "Wayne" <wmc_st@xxiii.com>, "Shop Talk List"
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOtbU9V-ZwafZhAE7CJXhUy+qZXZ41vfiJZ0TBEVUq5FK4i28A@mail.gmail.com><509DA6DC.2030005@earthlink.net><FB57262639734592B8AEA17D94D69783@Laptop><CAOtbU9W_26yUYFOiCjCGY4R7bemsirxFTf+OYVTjkWA4A0_kdw@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 08:21:45 -0600
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop Vac
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That is the ILS electric motor rating system used primarily for shop vacuums 
and air compressors. ILS -- If Lightning Strikes ---

-----Original Message----- 
From: Wayne
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2012 10:24 PM
To: Shop Talk List
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Shop Vac

On 11/9/2012 11:02 PM, Doug Braun wrote:
> This long-hose model from Sears looks interesting:
> http://www.sears.com/craftsman-remote-control-wall-mount-5.0-peak-hp/p-00916825000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

Wow, 5HP @ 120V. That takes around 32 amps. Didn't they ban BS HP
claims, or get sued over them a few years ago???

-w 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 10 16:21:38 2012
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 17:21:49 -0600
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
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To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] 06 Caravan wiring help needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My 2006 Caravan is sitting in my shop and I am trying to replace the 
overhead lighting console with one that has the trip computer in it. I 
have all the mechanical parts needed, just need to run one wire to it.  
Anyone have a wiring diagram or at least color code for the one extra 
wire I need to run? I assume it runs to one of the circuits in the OBD 
II connector, but can't find anything on line about it.

Thanks in advance.

Peace,
Pat

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 10 17:11:06 2012
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Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 19:11:39 -0500
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <509EE18D.4030401@hornesystemstx.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 06 Caravan wiring help needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Are you sure it needs more wire? CAN-Bus has been common for nearly 20 
years now, and cars blip network packets over power conductors, rather 
than running separate conductors for every device. Even if it was 
hard-wired, I doubt they would have two different harness stocked on a 
'line just for one optional feature.

-w

On 11/10/2012 6:21 PM, Pat Horne wrote:
> My 2006 Caravan is sitting in my shop and I am trying to replace the
> overhead lighting console with one that has the trip computer in it. I
> have all the mechanical parts needed, just need to run one wire to it.
> Anyone have a wiring diagram or at least color code for the one extra
> wire I need to run? I assume it runs to one of the circuits in the OBD
> II connector, but can't find anything on line about it.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 10 17:51:21 2012
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From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <509EE18D.4030401@hornesystemstx.com> <509EED3B.2090801@xxiii.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 06 Caravan wiring help needed
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Wayne,

I just found a wiring diagram on the net and see that the connector i 
was looking at was for the lights only, and not the CAN-bus module. 
There is another 12-pin connector that I didn't see that I need to wire 
up some of the pins on to get it to work. The original console I have 
only contains reading lights, while the one I am installing has the trip 
computer, etc., a totally separate module, in addition to the lights.

Thanks for your reply.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Wayne
> Are you sure it needs more wire? CAN-Bus has been common for nearly 20 
> years now, and cars blip network packets over power conductors, rather 
> than running separate conductors for every device. Even if it was 
> hard-wired, I doubt they would have two different harness stocked on a 
> 'line just for one optional feature.
>
> -w
>
> On 11/10/2012 6:21 PM, Pat Horne wrote:
>> My 2006 Caravan is sitting in my shop and I am trying to replace the
>> overhead lighting console with one that has the trip computer in it. I
>> have all the mechanical parts needed, just need to run one wire to it.
>> Anyone have a wiring diagram or at least color code for the one extra
>> wire I need to run? I assume it runs to one of the circuits in the OBD
>> II connector, but can't find anything on line about it.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Peace,
>> Pat
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
>
>
>

Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems (512) 797-7501 Voice & Text 5026 FM 2001 
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443 www.hornesystemstx.com -- 
We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 12:22:35 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related) gadgets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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An entertaining article about the things people on this list often buy:

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/11/business/hurricane-sandy-and-the-disaster-preparedness-economy.html

Doug
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 10:27:44 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
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Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related)
 gadgets
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Sooooooooooooo ... they're selling generators like crazy to people who have no fuel???



On 11/11/2012 9:22 AM, Doug Braun wrote:
> An entertaining article about the things people on this list often buy:
>
> http://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/11/business/hurricane-sandy-and-the-disaster-preparedness-economy.html
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 14:26:58 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related)
	gadgets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My generator is a Honda EU2000.   I have to power only a couple of
modern fridges, lights, and computer stuff (amazingly, we did not
lose Verizon Fios service in any of the storms of the last couple of
years).  It was able to run ten hours on a gallon of gas!
I had filled up all my cars before the storm, and I had enough gas in
them to run the generator for a week.
If you get one of these big 6000 watt portable generators, you'll
probably need at least 12 gallons per day, so
you would be spending a lot of time in line at the gas station (if
it's even open).  And that much gas gets expensive:
at least $40 per day.

Doug


 On Sun, Nov 11, 2012 at 1:27 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Sooooooooooooo ... they're selling generators like crazy to people who have no fuel???
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 13:00:04 2012
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "Doug Braun"
  <doug@dougbraun.com>
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 14:01:08 -0600
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related)
 gadgets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I wonder if having one that runs on natural gas would be a better option 
than one that runs on gasoline. Or maybe one that runs on diesel as diesel 
is much easier for "long term emergency use only" storage.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 12:27 PM
To: Doug Braun
Cc: Shop-Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related) 
gadgets

Sooooooooooooo ... they're selling generators like crazy to people who have 
no fuel??? 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 12:20:19 -0800 (PST)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>, Shop-Talk
  <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related)
 gadgets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

-If you get one of these big 6000 watt portable generators, you'll
probably need at least 12 gallons per day, so
you would be spending a lot of time in line at the gas station (if
it's even open).  And that much gas gets expensive:
at least $40 per day.

Doug

Hi Doug,

Well, yes and no.  The fuel consumption ratings generally are compiled at 50% 
load, so if you are loading a 6 kW generator at 1/2 load, you will need to burn 
enough fuel to generate 3kW of power which would be more than a 50% load on a 
smaller generator.

While larger generators probably will burn more fuel "idling" than a small one 
idling, with comparable levels of efficiency, they should not consume a great 
deal more fuel while generating similar output. 

I have this 4 kW Generac model that will run 10 hours @ 1/2 load on 4.5 gallons 
of fuel:

http://www.generac.com/Portables/XG/Products/XG4000/

It can run all day on a tank at "normal" loads for me which are less than 1/2 
load. I have been amazed at how little fuel it uses and do not fill the tank 
anymore as it takes so long to burn a tank that I worry about old gas (I do use 
Stabil).  :-)

An advantage of a larger generator is that you do have the additional capacity 
if you need it.

best,

doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 14:01:58 2012
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 13:02:53 -0800 (PST)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>, Doug Braun
	<doug@dougbraun.com>, Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related)
 gadgets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I am actually replying to my own message (always bad behavior).

I looked up the consumption ratings for the EU2000:

RATED AC OUTPUT1600 WATTS 
CONTINUOUS OPERATION TIME4HRS. @ RATED LOAD, 9.6 HRS. @ 1/4 LOAD  
So it should burn 1.1 gallons every 4 hours at 1600 watts and 1.1 gallons every 
9.6 hours at 400 watts

That 4 kW Generac would burn 4.5 gals every 10 hours at 1800 watts.  

So, if my arithmetic is correct (and it very well may not be--someone should 
check it), the little Honda generates 5.8 kWh per gallon running at rated output 
and ~3.5 kWh per gallon at 1/4 load.  

The larger Generac generates 4 kWh per gallon at 1/2 load, somewhere between the 
two ratings (full and 1/4) for the Honda.  

It would appear my belief that consumption is directly related to output has 
some founding, it also would appear that for the Honda (and probably most 
generators), though, it would be best to try to size the generator to run toward 
it's rated output where it is more efficient.  Of course there are noise, 
longevity, etc., considerations involved as well.
best,


doug






----- Original Message ----
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, November 11, 2012 12:27:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related) gadgets

-If you get one of these big 6000 watt portable generators, you'll
probably need at least 12 gallons per day, so
you would be spending a lot of time in line at the gas station (if
it's even open).  And that much gas gets expensive:
at least $40 per day.

Doug

Hi Doug,

Well, yes and no.  The fuel consumption ratings generally are compiled at 50% 
load, so if you are loading a 6 kW generator at 1/2 load, you will need to burn 
enough fuel to generate 3kW of power which would be more than a 50% load on a 
smaller generator.

While larger generators probably will burn more fuel "idling" than a small one 
idling, with comparable levels of efficiency, they should not consume a great 
deal more fuel while generating similar output. 

I have this 4 kW Generac model that will run 10 hours @ 1/2 load on 4.5 gallons 
of fuel:

http://www.generac.com/Portables/XG/Products/XG4000/

It can run all day on a tank at "normal" loads for me which are less than 1/2 
load. I have been amazed at how little fuel it uses and do not fill the tank 
anymore as it takes so long to burn a tank that I worry about old gas (I do use 
Stabil).  :-)

An advantage of a larger generator is that you do have the additional capacity 
if you need it.

best,

doug
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 11 14:16:22 2012
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 13:17:52 -0800
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
	Thunderbird/16.0.2
To: Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com>
References: <CAOtbU9VAJYtFrd0pGzQbRAicnuPQma355T-y5HzgJK4erC=kMg@mail.gmail.com>
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Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related)
 gadgets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> An installed natural gas generator is always a better option if you 
> can afford it and natural gas is available...and doesn't stop.  I 
> understand they have shut off a lot of the natural gas lines in New 
> Jersey due to widespread leaks.
>
> For years I used a big Hobart welder for my generator.  I live in the 
> rural suburbs of Seattle and every few years we get some nasty 
> snowfalls that can take the power out for a week, and I live at the 
> tail end of a single-ended feed.   The Hobart was noisy and thirsty, 
> but put out 8KW.  A couple of years ago I upgraded to a pad mounted 
> propane setup, since we already had a 500 gallon propane tank for the 
> water heater and back-up furnace.  It's very nice and I don't have to 
> worry about the gas company shutting off the main.  Plus, with a wood 
> stove for primary heat in an emergency, the propane would last quite a 
> while.
>
> I originally considered diesel for same reasons you mentioned, but 
> they are very expensive and I really didn't want to store (or buy) 500 
> gallons of diesel. 

On 11/11/2012 12:01 PM, Arvid Jedlicka wrote:
> I wonder if having one that runs on natural gas would be a better 
> option than one that runs on gasoline. Or maybe one that runs on 
> diesel as diesel is much easier for "long term emergency use only" 
> storage.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell
> Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 12:27 PM
> To: Doug Braun
> Cc: Shop-Talk
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat 
> shop-related) gadgets
>
> Sooooooooooooo ... they're selling generators like crazy to people who 
> have no fuel??? _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 16:01:08 -0600
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related)
 gadgets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Farms and sububan acreage operators have a good resource available to them
if they already have any size of a diesel tractor with a power take off
shaft.  One can buy PTO operated generators for cheap and the tractors are
so efficient that the fuel cost is reasonable . . Don't hold me liable but
I think I did the math and could generate 4.5 KW for about half a gallon of
diesel per hour.  (tractor rated at 17.5 horsepower hours per gallon)
Diesel tractors are amazingly efficient at low load. Massey Ferguson had a
state fair stunt where one was to guess how much fuel a 60 HP diesel
tractor would burn in a DAY at no-load idle . .it was about a quart!
Tony
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 17:13:46 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
Cc: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related)
 gadgets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The nice thing about the EU2000 (and one reason it is expensive) it
that it is inverter-based.
This means that the engine is not required to constantly run at 3600
RPM to produce 60 Hz
AC.  When the power draw is low, it throttles down quite a bit.  As a
bonus, it gets even quieter.

They make a 6500 watt inverter generator, but it costs a fortune.

Doug

On Sun, Nov 11, 2012 at 4:02 PM, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net> wrote:
> I am actually replying to my own message (always bad behavior).
>
> I looked up the consumption ratings for the EU2000:
>
> RATED AC OUTPUT1600 WATTS
> CONTINUOUS OPERATION TIME4HRS. @ RATED LOAD, 9.6 HRS. @ 1/4 LOAD
> So it should burn 1.1 gallons every 4 hours at 1600 watts and 1.1 gallons every
> 9.6 hours at 400 watts
>
> That 4 kW Generac would burn 4.5 gals every 10 hours at 1800 watts.
>
> So, if my arithmetic is correct (and it very well may not be--someone should
> check it), the little Honda generates 5.8 kWh per gallon running at rated output
> and ~3.5 kWh per gallon at 1/4 load.
>
> The larger Generac generates 4 kWh per gallon at 1/2 load, somewhere between the
> two ratings (full and 1/4) for the Honda.
>
> It would appear my belief that consumption is directly related to output has
> some founding, it also would appear that for the Honda (and probably most
> generators), though, it would be best to try to size the generator to run toward
> it's rated output where it is more efficient.  Of course there are noise,
> longevity, etc., considerations involved as well.
> best,
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 18:25:14 -0600
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related)
 gadgets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, Nov 11, 2012 at 4:07 PM, *John Innis* <jdinnis@gmail.com> wrote:

> Nothing cheap about a PTO generator.  They cost almost as much as a
> similar rated unit with a gas motor.  And you have to have a tractor with
> sufficient PTO power to run it.
>
> *Well, yes you DO sorta need a tractor for a pto generator(!)  but a
> quick Google search found a $900 7.1KW pto unit and I would personally
> rather have that sitting around on standby that a highpriced GASOLINE unit
> (Honda 6.KW @ $4000) which will cost much more to operate.  You choose.*
>
 *Tony in Texas*

**
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'Shop-Talk'" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 21:53:13 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3ASwFFTY7ya3CyTnqFIL3j4s2Q4wBFlzEw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related)
 gadgets
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> An advantage of a larger generator is that you do have the additional 
> capacity if you need it.

We have a 7,500 watt generator.  I don't recall the numbers, but it'll run
far longer than I thought it would on it's 10 gallon tank.  The nice part is
that we run as much of the house as we need to and still run a few extension
cords to the neighbors.  I only keep 10 gallons in cans, but I have 10 in my
Triumph TR3 and 13 or so in my Triumph TR8.

Last winter we lost power for a week, right after switching to Dish.  That
was nice, as Comcast was down.

We lose power every few years for a few days at a clip.  Having a nice big
generator is nice to bridge the gap.  I also like to be able to run my
welder in the field too.

Jack
Seattle-ish

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of old dirtbeard
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 12:20 PM
To: Doug Braun; Shop-Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Article on contemporary (somewhat shop-related)
gadgets

-If you get one of these big 6000 watt portable generators, you'll
probably need at least 12 gallons per day, so
you would be spending a lot of time in line at the gas station (if
it's even open).  And that much gas gets expensive:
at least $40 per day.

Doug

Hi Doug,

Well, yes and no.  The fuel consumption ratings generally are compiled at
50% 
load, so if you are loading a 6 kW generator at 1/2 load, you will need to
burn 
enough fuel to generate 3kW of power which would be more than a 50% load on
a 
smaller generator.

While larger generators probably will burn more fuel "idling" than a small
one 
idling, with comparable levels of efficiency, they should not consume a
great 
deal more fuel while generating similar output. 

I have this 4 kW Generac model that will run 10 hours @ 1/2 load on 4.5
gallons 
of fuel:

http://www.generac.com/Portables/XG/Products/XG4000/

It can run all day on a tank at "normal" loads for me which are less than
1/2 
load. I have been amazed at how little fuel it uses and do not fill the tank

anymore as it takes so long to burn a tank that I worry about old gas (I do
use 
Stabil).  :-)

An advantage of a larger generator is that you do have the additional
capacity 
if you need it.

best,

doug
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 23 23:47:07 2012
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Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2012 22:47:37 -0800
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:16.0) Gecko/20121026
	Thunderbird/16.0.2
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Heat pump water heaters?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I must not get out enough.  I saw an ad for these in tonight's paper.  I 
never knew they existed.  I understand how they work, and I guess if 
natural gas was unavailable and your electricity was really, really 
expensive, they might pencil outr, but it looks to me like a (very 
complicated) solution looking for a problem.

When my (12 year old) propane heater craps out we'll be getting another 
propane heater...

Hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <50B06D89.1090708@frontier.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 11:01:50 -0600
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Heat pump water heaters?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Nov 24, 2012 at 12:47 AM, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:
> I must not get out enough.  I saw an ad for these in tonight's paper.  I
> never knew they existed.  I understand how they work, and I guess if natural
> gas was unavailable and your electricity was really, really expensive, they
> might pencil outr, but it looks to me like a (very complicated) solution
> looking for a problem.

Well, they're in range of 250% efficient, so for straight out
replacing a standard electric water heater the pay back period is
somewhere around 3 years. Depends on your electric rates, of course,
and your usage.  Also depends on climate: if you're somewhere like
Florida where you're likely going to be paying to air condition air
much of the year, you get a double bonus, since the heat moved into
hot water is heat the air conditioner doesn't have to deal with.  If
you're in Alaska, it probably doesn't make any sense at all.

If you're looking at replacing a gas heater with one of these, the
payback is longer.  I don't think anyone makes a residential heat-pump
with gas backing, so you go from a relatively cheap heat source to a
more expensive one.  There are add on things, and heat pump/gas
hybrids exist for commercial operations.

The management company my coop uses has told us if we replace the hot
water boilers with a heat pump system, we'd pay back the capital costs
in between two and three years, and book a savings of a few thousand
dollars a year after that.  (We have common hot water, paid for by the
association, and people use a lot of it. )  Given the expected life of
the system is a few decades (current system was installed in 1959, and
works just fine), that's a substantial amount of savings.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From: <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: "=?utf-8?Q?Shop-talk@autox.team.net?=" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>, 
	=?utf-8?Q?Dave_C?= <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 18:05:07 +0000
References: <50B06D89.1090708@frontier.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] =?utf-8?q?Heat_pump_water_heaters=3F?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I looked at them, and they (kind of) make sense for us because of a combination of factors:

 

1) No natural gas where I live. You can get propane, but itbs expensive.

2) Fairly steep electric rates.

3) The water heater is in the garage. I live in Florida. Ibve gotten fairly far along in the bhow do I economically put a/c in the garageb process. This would help somewhat.

 

But so far I can only get them for something like $1200, and therebs noting wrong with my old water heater (yet, knock on wood). The water heater in the old house died, and I looked at solar first, just because it wasnbt too much more expensive and the payback is better.


I think theybd make more sense if you lived in Arizona or south Florida--where I live wanting to a/c the garage is only a nine-month-per-year thing. The other three months it can get chilly and then itbd make no sense at all. If you live somewhere where you never use a heater at all, you could stick it in the house and itbd be great. But Ibm not excited about having the water heater ever work against the house heater, and itbd be less efficient in the garage in winter, and thatbs exactly when you want a water heater to get better, not worse.

 

But during the summer, when the garage will get to 95 degrees and stay there for months at a time, yeah, it should do well.

 

Ibm still up on the fence about how to do this right. Ibm leaning towards a hybrid solar/tankless or solar/heat pump now.

 

Scott


From: Dave C
Sent: bNovemberb b24b, b2012 b1b:b47b bAM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Heat pump water heaters?


I must not get out enough.  I saw an ad for these in tonight's paper.  I 
never knew they existed.  I understand how they work, and I guess if 
natural gas was unavailable and your electricity was really, really 
expensive, they might pencil outr, but it looks to me like a (very 
complicated) solution looking for a problem.

When my (12 year old) propane heater craps out we'll be getting another 
propane heater...

Hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 24 11:17:00 2012
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From: <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
To: "=?utf-8?Q?shop-talk@autox.team.net?=" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2012 18:17:00 +0000
Subject: [Shop-talk] =?utf-8?q?Entirely_not_shop_related=2C_but=2E=2E=2E?=
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You guys are geniuses, and I want a good answer.

 

I have two computers, a Dell and an HP.

 

The Dell picked up some nasty script things and I canbt get rid of them. I like overkill, so I want to format the hard drive and install Windows 8 over it.

 

The HP I donbt use. It has an SSD in it. It seems like a waste to just have it sitting in a laptop I never use.

 

Ibd like to take the SSD out of the HP and stick it in the Dell, and install Windows 8 on the SSD. I want nothing thatbs currently on the SSD. I just want Windows 8, and thatbs it.

 

Ibd like to take the perfectly good HD out of the Dell and stick it in the HP. Same story with the Dell HD--I want nothing thatbs currently on it, and in fact would like to totally wipe it to kill off whatever malware is living on it.

 

I have purchased Windows 8 Pro and installed it on the Dell already.

 

So the platter HD has Win8 and is in the Dell.

 

Ibd like to end up with the SSD in the Dell with Win8, and the platter HD in the HP, and I donbt really care if itbs got an OS on it at all--O use it so infrequently that the next time I need it Ibll buy Win8 online from MS and install it then.

 

So...can yball walk me through how to do that?

 

Misc. stuff that might be good to know: the drives are different capacities (I think), and Ibve tried to use a utility like EaseUS in the past and failed miserably. Can I just take the SSD from the HP, slide it in the Dell, install Win8 and thatbs that? Maybe put the platter HD then in the HP and download another license for Win8 from MS and thatbs that?

 

The only reason that makes me think I canbt do this is that the Dell seems to have Dell-specific drivers on it that survived the Win8 installation, and that makes me think theybre important and that I need them and my plan to just slap the SSD in it might  be over-simplifying things.

 

So...can anyone tell me how to get the SSD into the Dell with the bare minimum on it I need to have it work? I just want Win8 and whatever drivers I absolutely need--all the files I needed from it are backed up on a separate drive.

 

I could even just ignore putting the platter HD in the HP for now. I could just physically install it and fool with it another time.

 

Hopefully I typed that in a way thatbs understandable.

 

Thanks for the help, and after I finish this, I can go install the new shower in the garage. And then put in a new pump int he washing machine. Yay.

 

Scott
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 25 17:32:09 2012
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From: Bob Nogueira <Bob@texmog.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 18:32:34 -0600
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
	with any abuse report
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Helicoil  in aluminum
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I'm about to install a helicoil in an aluminum block.   The tap calls for
drilling a 21/64" hole.  Since it is aluminum should I drill the hole just a
tad smaller?  If so how much?

Thanks Bob Nogueira

(" Mr Gaskell, how much is a tad?".  --  " more than a smidgen and less than a
bit")
     ----The Patio Garage.  1963
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 25 19:03:33 2012
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 21:03:40 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Bob Nogueira <Bob@texmog.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Helicoil in aluminum
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Last one I did (in a TR6 transmission case) I drilled the hole 21/64.
Worked just fine for me...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Sun, Nov 25, 2012 at 7:32 PM, Bob Nogueira <Bob@texmog.com> wrote:
> I'm about to install a helicoil in an aluminum block.   The tap calls for
> drilling a 21/64" hole.  Since it is aluminum should I drill the hole just a
> tad smaller?  If so how much?
>
> Thanks Bob Nogueira
>
> (" Mr Gaskell, how much is a tad?".  --  " more than a smidgen and less than a
> bit")
>      ----The Patio Garage.  1963
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 25 21:07:20 2012
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Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 22:50:20 -0500
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Bob Nogueira" <Bob@texmog.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Helicoil  in aluminum
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Looks like you ar installing a 5/16-24 Helicoil. Use the 21/64 drill.
Trust the engineers that designed them.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> I'm about to install a helicoil in an aluminum block.   The tap calls for
> drilling a 21/64" hole.  Since it is aluminum should I drill the hole just
> a
> tad smaller?  If so how much?
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 25 21:21:10 2012
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 19:57:43 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3LbZLlwty30kt9TAWIKZSHdprzYwAHFW4w
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Helicoil  in aluminum
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> I'm about to install a helicoil in an aluminum block.   The 
> tap calls for
> drilling a 21/64" hole.  Since it is aluminum should I drill 
> the hole just a tad smaller?  If so how much?

I don't think it matters much.  The tap seems to ream the hole out if it is
undersize.  I've even been known not to drill, if the hole is completely
skinned out (and the base metal is soft).

-- Randall 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 25 21:51:52 2012
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Helicoil  in aluminum
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On 11/25/2012 7:50 PM, greg@gelhar.com wrote:
> Looks like you ar installing a 5/16-24 Helicoil. Use the 21/64 drill.
> Trust the engineers that designed them.

...with a brief moment of consideration as to whether one really wants a 
fine thread in aluminum in the first place, and whether it wouldn't be 
possible to use 5/16-18 instead.

John.
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