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From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2013 11:07:40 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/02/2013 11:06:17, Serialize complete at
	02/02/2013 11:06:17
Subject: [Shop-talk] UPDATE- True "keyless" entry add on
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Here is an update on getting TRUE 'keyless entry' into a vehicle.

First, thanks a ton to Todd for finding this information. 

I eventually ordered the keypad (and CANBUS module) for my vehicle.  It 
was about $270 total.  Both parts were high quality and I was impressed. 
Since the module was more for remote starters, the wiring I needed to do 
wasn't represented in the 
directions.  I few emails to A1 and I had the info I needed (Note, their 
tech only works with email. Calling them only gets you a sales person. 
While this isn't ideal, they are friendly and willing to work with you.)

Routing wires through the vehicle was a pain (but not as big of a pain as 
the rear camera wiring when I had a two-way tail gate and VUX dual 
firewall!).  Of course drilling and mounting the keypad is nerve racking 
and on this truck, you can't mount it in the ideal location.

Once installed, it all worked perfectly (and looks pretty cool.)  I would 
recommend this to anyone that wants add one to their vehicle.

My only regret is that I didn't get the 'thought the windshield' keypad. 
It would have saved about 80% of the labor time and I would be able to 
easily transfer it to another vehicle.

If anyone does want to try it, I quickly made a rough wiring diagram by 
photoshoping the two instruction manuals together and I'll be more than 
happy to email it to anyone that wants it.  (However, your vehicle's 
CANBUS module may be different.)

Overall, I'm a happy camper and the truck is 98% completed (I'm just 
waiting on the custom cross rails for the roof rack from Vintage auto.)

Thanks again Todd and to everyone on this list!


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




         Found this.  Saw the system listed for around $170.  I assume 
you'd have to cut an opening in the door for the keypad.
         Other thing that would concern me is that in most newer vehicles 
many systems communicate electronically via CANBUS and any add-on would 
have to not upset the computers.  On my TDI, for example, the door lock 
unit has several micro switches that report on the state of the lock and 
handle position and transmit that info to the car.  This info is used to 
activate/set off the alarm, turn on interior lights, etc.  I'd want to be 
darn sure that this sort of item will work in your specific vehicle before 

shelling out the dough.

http://www.keyless.com/vehiclekeyless.htm

Pricing from here:
<
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=AKE-5
>


         This is clever, the "keypad" is behind the windshield so no 
cutting.  Don't know what company makes the system they install or if it 
can be done by a DIY'er.
http://www.enormis.net/products/product?id=56&category_id=6


Todd
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Feb  3 13:08:00 2013
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Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2013 14:53:39 -0500
From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
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To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, MGVR@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
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I have one of these:

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=MT002

and I have been unable to successfully drill the proper hole into a bolt 
head or nut using this.  I keep breaking the tip of the drill so I lose 
the cutting edge of the drill before I can get it to make a hole.  Have 
any of you been able to make this work?
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Feb  3 13:25:14 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Jim Juhas'" <james.f.juhas@snet.net>, "'Shop Talk List'"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 12:13:28 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
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> I have one of these:
> 
> http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=MT002
> 
> and I have been unable to successfully drill the proper hole 
> into a bolt head or nut using this.  I keep breaking the tip 
> of the drill so I lose the cutting edge of the drill before I 
> can get it to make a hole.  Have any of you been able to make 
> this work?

I don't have one, but have you tried first grinding a small flat across the
corner of the bolt head, where the hole will go?

-- Randall 
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Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 14:39:19 -0600
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
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For me, carbide bits cure most drlll problems, cobalt is next best.  Tap
fluid or cutting fluid helps.  Is it a realy hard bolt?
Tony
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Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2013 21:45:18 -0800
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
	mail.megageek.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] UPDATE- True "keyless" entry add on
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Eric wrote:

>Here is an update on getting TRUE 'keyless entry' into a vehicle.
>
>First, thanks a ton to Todd for finding this information.

         Sweeet!  It looked like an interesting solution to your 
dilemma.  Glad it worked out!


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       386,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  4 10:46:18 2013
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: <eltonclark@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 12:30:23 -0500
References: <510EC043.5020407@snet.net>,
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
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Not sure if there's any secret here.  I've drilled a dozen 1/8" safety wire
holes in Grade 8 bolts before using a single cobalt bit in a drill press, and
without the tool you linked to - just some vice grips on the bolt head to hold
it straight.  Make sure the bit is sharp, and if it's not some work with a
grinder or diamond file to touch up the cutting edges works to keep it cutting
w/out overheating which is probably going to trash the whole bit or break it.
Go slow (probably slower than you think) and use oil (wd40 seems to work ok)
and take breaks to let the bit cool.
-PJ
> Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 14:39:19 -0600
> From: eltonclark@gmail.com
> CC: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
>
> For me, carbide bits cure most drlll problems, cobalt is next best.  Tap
> fluid or cutting fluid helps.  Is it a realy hard bolt?
> Tony
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  4 12:20:43 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 11:02:58 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac4C/tilMdTVUgXwTqmlbUxTZ2iUOwACvepQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Not sure if there's any secret here.  I've drilled a dozen 
> 1/8" safety wire holes in Grade 8 bolts before using a single 
> cobalt bit in a drill press, and without the tool you linked 
> to -

But did you start on the corner of the bolt head?  That's what the linked-to
tool is designed to do; and it has a guide right next to the bolt head to
hold the drill on-center to the corner.  Seems to me that even a cobalt bit
is going to grab the corner of the bolt head and bind or break; unless you
grind a small flat for the bit to start into.

-- Randall 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  4 19:18:17 2013
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 21:12:45 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Nope, I didn't even realize that was something people were doing - and I'm
wondering why (though I'm guessing something to do with the strength of the
bolt head for torquing?).
Maybe a thicker drill bit wouldn't have a problem bending and breaking so
easily, almost seems like you're asking for trouble by using that guide and
with such a small bit.

> From: TR3driver@ca.rr.com
> CC: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 11:02:58 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
>
> > Not sure if there's any secret here.  I've drilled a dozen
> > 1/8" safety wire holes in Grade 8 bolts before using a single
> > cobalt bit in a drill press, and without the tool you linked
> > to -
>
> But did you start on the corner of the bolt head?  That's what the
linked-to
> tool is designed to do; and it has a guide right next to the bolt head to
> hold the drill on-center to the corner.  Seems to me that even a cobalt bit
> is going to grab the corner of the bolt head and bind or break; unless you
> grind a small flat for the bit to start into.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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	<SNT127-W201276AAC6D324850C5DE9A000@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 09:49:12 -0500
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy,

As to "why?" I'm guessing its "don't have to drill as much".  Going
through a corner of a bolt head seems like it'd be a heck of a lot
less material to remove.

As for how to actually drill it... I would think it'd be pretty
sensitive to what drills you were using and what feed rates.  Seems
like since you're catching the corner on an angle, it would be pretty
easy to overfeed it, causing the drill to take too much of a bite and
snap.  Is that what's happening, or is it something else?  Might have
a similar problem coming out, but the bit should be even better
supported there.

All that said... I've always done like someone else posted and drilled
straight through, flat to flat.  And I've broken off my share of bits
doing it, particularly when I've done it using a hand drill.

Mark

On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 9:12 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Nope, I didn't even realize that was something people were doing - and I'm
> wondering why (though I'm guessing something to do with the strength of the
> bolt head for torquing?).
> Maybe a thicker drill bit wouldn't have a problem bending and breaking so
> easily, almost seems like you're asking for trouble by using that guide and
> with such a small bit.
>
>> From: TR3driver@ca.rr.com
>> CC: shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 11:02:58 -0800
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
>>
>> > Not sure if there's any secret here.  I've drilled a dozen
>> > 1/8" safety wire holes in Grade 8 bolts before using a single
>> > cobalt bit in a drill press, and without the tool you linked
>> > to -
>>
>> But did you start on the corner of the bolt head?  That's what the
> linked-to
>> tool is designed to do; and it has a guide right next to the bolt head to
>> hold the drill on-center to the corner.  Seems to me that even a cobalt bit
>> is going to grab the corner of the bolt head and bind or break; unless you
>> grind a small flat for the bit to start into.
>>
>> -- Randall
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2013 09:54:50 -0500
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
	Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <SNT127-W29D0083EC6F5E7CCC87CAF9A010@phx.gbl>
	<B8.8F.22260.AD500115@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
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	<CAAoSWGPquWeYKrGjsFnKDQs1cBxBbVVE+XLa2LgNKdTQNcHDjQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A bike I bought had a few that were drilled through the edges of a bolt. 
I'm trying to remember why now, but at the time it seemed to make sense 
for that particular bolt. But like Mark said, I've never drilled those 
myself. I have a hard-enough time drilling through flat-to-flat.

I'd do like Randall (I think) said, and grind a flat, then drill. It 
seems like the fixtures designed to make things easier are hit-and-miss. 
Some are helpful, and others are just a waste of money.

On 2/5/2013 9:49 AM, Mark Andy wrote:
> Howdy,
>
> As to "why?" I'm guessing its "don't have to drill as much".  Going
> through a corner of a bolt head seems like it'd be a heck of a lot
> less material to remove.
>
> As for how to actually drill it... I would think it'd be pretty
> sensitive to what drills you were using and what feed rates.  Seems
> like since you're catching the corner on an angle, it would be pretty
> easy to overfeed it, causing the drill to take too much of a bite and
> snap.  Is that what's happening, or is it something else?  Might have
> a similar problem coming out, but the bit should be even better
> supported there.
>
> All that said... I've always done like someone else posted and drilled
> straight through, flat to flat.  And I've broken off my share of bits
> doing it, particularly when I've done it using a hand drill.
>
> Mark
>
> On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 9:12 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> Nope, I didn't even realize that was something people were doing - and I'm
>> wondering why (though I'm guessing something to do with the strength of the
>> bolt head for torquing?).
>> Maybe a thicker drill bit wouldn't have a problem bending and breaking so
>> easily, almost seems like you're asking for trouble by using that guide and
>> with such a small bit.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb  5 19:20:02 2013
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From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 20:50:56 -0500
To: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I originally posted this question. While the jig presumably can be used on
bolt heads, my interest was for locking nuts, not bolt heads, with safety
wire. The applications for this include locking the nuts on an external oil
pump where the cover is mounted over studs, generally light torque situations.
Another method I have used is a castled nut and a hole through the end of the
thread on a bolt, but that's not always feasible on the end of a stud.

Sent via iPad
Jim Juhas

On Feb 5, 2013, at 9:49 AM, Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com> wrote:

> Howdy,
>
> As to "why?" I'm guessing its "don't have to drill as much".  Going
> through a corner of a bolt head seems like it'd be a heck of a lot
> less material to remove.
>
> As for how to actually drill it... I would think it'd be pretty
> sensitive to what drills you were using and what feed rates.  Seems
> like since you're catching the corner on an angle, it would be pretty
> easy to overfeed it, causing the drill to take too much of a bite and
> snap.  Is that what's happening, or is it something else?  Might have
> a similar problem coming out, but the bit should be even better
> supported there.
>
> All that said... I've always done like someone else posted and drilled
> straight through, flat to flat.  And I've broken off my share of bits
> doing it, particularly when I've done it using a hand drill.
>
> Mark
>
> On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 9:12 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
wrote:
>> Nope, I didn't even realize that was something people were doing - and I'm
>> wondering why (though I'm guessing something to do with the strength of
the
>> bolt head for torquing?).
>> Maybe a thicker drill bit wouldn't have a problem bending and breaking so
>> easily, almost seems like you're asking for trouble by using that guide
and
>> with such a small bit.
>>
>>> From: TR3driver@ca.rr.com
>>> CC: shop-talk@autox.team.net
>>> Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 11:02:58 -0800
>>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
>>>
>>>> Not sure if there's any secret here.  I've drilled a dozen
>>>> 1/8" safety wire holes in Grade 8 bolts before using a single
>>>> cobalt bit in a drill press, and without the tool you linked
>>>> to -
>>>
>>> But did you start on the corner of the bolt head?  That's what the
>> linked-to
>>> tool is designed to do; and it has a guide right next to the bolt head to
>>> hold the drill on-center to the corner.  Seems to me that even a cobalt
bit
>>> is going to grab the corner of the bolt head and bind or break; unless
you
>>> grind a small flat for the bit to start into.
>>>
>>> -- Randall
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka@maracing.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb  6 07:35:25 2013
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: "Jim Juhas" <james.f.juhas@snet.net>, "Shop Talk List"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>, <MGVR@yahoogroups.com>
References: <510EC043.5020407@snet.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 08:27:39 -0600
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Based on the single review on Amazon it seems like even if you do get it to 
drill a hole it may be "useless".

http://www.amazon.com/Safety-Pliers-Guide-Block-Universal/dp/B005SUVTDY/ref=pd_sbs_indust_5

and from this video ... 26 seconds into the video ... the holes do look 
"interesting" ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1X0sIbucjko

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jim Juhas
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 1:53 PM
To: Shop Talk List ; MGVR@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide

I have one of these:

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=MT002

and I have been unable to successfully drill the proper hole into a bolt
head or nut using this.  I keep breaking the tip of the drill so I lose
the cutting edge of the drill before I can get it to make a hole.  Have
any of you been able to make this work?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj@visi.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 11 14:40:32 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 13:29:05 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ibm looking for 2 items, both accomplish the same function
on a vise (bviceb for our British members <grin>).  The bTb
nut that locks the visebs rotation, as illustrated in the dwg
below (assuming the dwg makes it onto the list) is one item.
The other item (no example shown) accomplishes the same
function but instead of the cross-sliding bTb, there is a vertical
slot milled into the top of the pinch nut.  A cross drilled hole
with pin holds a flip-over piece of flat stock that is used as
the lever for tightening the locking nut on the vise base.
My problem may be a lack of knowledge of terms.  Hard to
search if Ibm not using the correct words.  Checked Grainger,
McMaster, vise companies, etc. all to no avail.

Appreciate any assistance.
Thanks.







Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 22:09:57 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Drawings don't work on the list.  flickr.com is free.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
> To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 3:29:05 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise
> Ibm looking for 2 items, both accomplish the same function
> on a vise (bviceb for our British members <grin>). The bTb
> nut that locks the visebs rotation, as illustrated in the dwg
> below (assuming the dwg makes it onto the list) is one item.
> The other item (no example shown) accomplishes the same
> function but instead of the cross-sliding bTb, there is a vertical
> slot milled into the top of the pinch nut. A cross drilled hole
> with pin holds a flip-over piece of flat stock that is used as
> the lever for tightening the locking nut on the vise base.
> My problem may be a lack of knowledge of terms. Hard to
> search if Ibm not using the correct words. Checked Grainger,
> McMaster, vise companies, etc. all to no avail.
> 
> Appreciate any assistance.
> Thanks.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 11 16:11:42 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 17:53:23 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/11/2013 17:52:59, Serialize complete at
	02/11/2013 17:52:59
Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a 2003 Toyota spyder that has a driver's side rear brake that 
freezes close in cold weather.

The pads are fine and the cable isn't binding.  What can I do to fix it? 

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 11 16:16:18 2013
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 15:10:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Replace the brake cable.  The cable gets water inside then it freezes  and won't 
let the brake disengage.  This seems to have been an issue  with all generations 
of MR2. 


Randy





________________________________
From: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Sent: Mon, February 11, 2013 5:06:15 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake

I have a 2003 Toyota spyder that has a driver's side rear brake that 
freezes close in cold weather.

The pads are fine and the cable isn't binding.  What can I do to fix it? 

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mistertwo@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 11 17:28:17 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: <pethier@comcast.net>
References: <1347526493.397418.1360620597066.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 16:20:54 -0800
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise (with photo links)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.powertoolsdirect.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab3
3525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/r/irwin-record-swivel-base-for-pro-entry-vice.jpg
http://www.make-your-own-fishing-lures.com/images/work-bench-vise.jpg
The above images of a bswivel lock nutb with sliding bTb handle is one
item
I am looking for.
http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss111/GeorgiaHybrid/Matco%20Tool%20Cart/Re
cord_01.jpg
The second type of bSwivel Lockb is shown on the above photo link.  Ibve
just found this
photo and Ibm going into the world of Record Vices (theybre made in
England).
Still looking for baftermarketb sources for these two types of nuts, even
though the
Reed nut now looks more like a bolt to me.
Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: pethier@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 2:09 PM
To: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA
Cc: Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise

Drawings don't work on the list.  flickr.com is free.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
> To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 3:29:05 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise
> Ibm looking for 2 items, both accomplish the same function
> on a vise (bviceb for our British members <grin>). The bTb
> nut that locks the visebs rotation, as illustrated in the dwg
> below (assuming the dwg makes it onto the list) is one item.
> The other item (no example shown) accomplishes the same
> function but instead of the cross-sliding bTb, there is a vertical
> slot milled into the top of the pinch nut. A cross drilled hole
> with pin holds a flip-over piece of flat stock that is used as
> the lever for tightening the locking nut on the vise base.
> My problem may be a lack of knowledge of terms. Hard to
> search if Ibm not using the correct words. Checked Grainger,
> McMaster, vise companies, etc. all to no avail.
>
> Appreciate any assistance.
> Thanks.



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6074 - Release Date: 02/01/13
Internal Virus Database is out of date.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 11 18:45:06 2013
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	<1360624222.48648.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 17:36:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

X2.  I recall this being an issue when I was active on the MR2 list. The list
is still running as far as I know. I believe the issue was the rubber boot
that let water in, and that water freezes when everything cools down.

List
info here:

http://www.mr2.com/mailman/listinfo/mr2_mr2.com


B
>________________________________
> From: Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
>To: eric@megageek.com; shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net 
>Sent: Monday, February 11,
2013 6:10 PM
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake
> 
>Replace the brake
cable.  The cable gets water inside then it freezes  and won't 
>let the brake
disengage.  This seems to have been an issue  with all generations 
>of MR2.
>
>(snip)
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 11 20:49:12 2013
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Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 22:43:13 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
References: <OFD8BF3D2E.4ABABD42-ON85257B0F.007D88AC-85257B0F.007F1B27@mail.megageek.com>
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User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Cc: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, 11 Feb 2013, Battmain wrote:
> X2.  I recall this being an issue when I was active on the MR2 list. The list
> is still running as far as I know. I believe the issue was the rubber boot
> that let water in, and that water freezes when everything cools down.

    That List is very low traffic these days.  You'll have better luck on 
mr2oc.com.

    All eight MR2s that I've owned have had a frozen handbrake cable at 
some point... except, of course, my current ice racer which has been 
practically encased in ice, but never had that problem.

    But I thought Eric said the cable wasn't the problem on his Spyder?

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 11 23:12:12 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 21:59:56 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac4ItxQfSqFJJGrzQ+mObhPQbOhFHAALI0WA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise (with photo links)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Here are shorter versions of Steve's links:

First type of lock handle:
http://goo.gl/IUuSD

http://goo.gl/NmpYV

Second type:
http://goo.gl/1r8on

Unfortunately, I've never seen parts like that for sale separately, except
as repair parts.

Either one would be easy enough to make, though, especially if they don't
need to be hardened.  (I'm pretty sure the ones on my cheap Chinese vice
aren't hardened, and they've taken all the abuse I've given them for over 30
years.)

-- Randall 
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 12 03:44:21 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 05:26:29 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/12/2013 05:25:39, Serialize complete at
	02/12/2013 05:25:39
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake
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David writes...

> But I thought Eric said the cable wasn't the problem on his Spyder?


When the brake is frozen, I can move the handle up and down w/out 
resistance.  I would image that if the cable as frozen, the hand brake 
lever wouldn't move.

I was able to free it up by gently prying the brake pad away from the 
rotor this last time when the brake was frozen.

Thanks again for all the help.  I'm still considering the new cable as a 
"try it" method.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 12 03:50:00 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 05:32:15 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/12/2013 05:31:22, Serialize complete at
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Parts for vise (with photo links)
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Not to hijack this thread,

But just last week I decided to 'restore' a vice that I was given to me 
from a friend.  It was a cheap China vise, but I figure it only need to be 
sanded and then repainted so I spent an evening with it. Since I was 
putting it on my welding table, it would get beat up anyway.

Once I sand blasted the old paint off, I couldn't believe what I saw.  The 
entire vice was pitted metal.  But at the factory they bondo the entire 
thing to make it look smooth.

It really opened my eyes to just how cheap some things can be made.

So, of course I had to rebondo the entire vice.  In the end, it came out 
pretty neat.  (I did a 2 tone paint job with a few bare metal accents! ) 
8>)

I'm just sharing.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 12 04:30:42 2013
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From: "gordies garage" <mg_garage@comcast.net>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OFC71D2D8C.400A7817-ON85257B10.00390548-85257B10.003AB991@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 06:24:53 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

With sufficient water in the brake system, it is possible that it freezes in 
the caliper just enough to seize your pads.
When was the last time you did a brake fluid flush?

Gordie

--------------------------------------------------
From: <eric@megageek.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 5:26 AM
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake

> David writes...
>
>> But I thought Eric said the cable wasn't the problem on his Spyder?
>
>
> When the brake is frozen, I can move the handle up and down w/out
> resistance.  I would image that if the cable as frozen, the hand brake
> lever wouldn't move.
>
> I was able to free it up by gently prying the brake pad away from the
> rotor this last time when the brake was frozen.
>
> Thanks again for all the help.  I'm still considering the new cable as a
> "try it" method.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 12 07:19:46 2013
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake
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----- Original Message -----
> From: eric@megageek.com
> To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 4:26:29 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake

> When the brake is frozen, I can move the handle up and down w/out
> resistance. 

What you are describing is a corroded brake cable.  We know all about that here in the Salt Capital of the World.

I would image that if the cable as frozen, the hand brake
> lever wouldn't move.

Quite the reverse.  Brake cable is rusty and sticks.  You yank up the cable to set the brake.  The cable sticks.  The parking-brake return spring is not as strong as you are, and is unable to overcome the sticktion in the cable.
 
> I was able to free it up by gently prying the brake pad away from the
> rotor this last time when the brake was frozen.

Consistent with above.

> Thanks again for all the help. I'm still considering the new cable as
> a
> "try it" method.

I'm considering it the "cure-it" method.

My MG Midget had a zerk fitting on the middle of the parking-brake cable.  A shot of grease there meant no parking-brake-cable problems ever.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 12 21:11:00 2013
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From: "Mark Miller" <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 19:55:09 -0800
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Good MG midget design?!?! was: Sticky brake
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

<<<My MG Midget had a zerk fitting on the middle of the parking-brake cable.
A shot of grease there meant no parking-brake-cable problems ever.>>>

I owned a midget for a couple of years and this is the first time I ever
heard anyone say anything good about their engineering.  I certainly never
did.

Mark Miller
Ducking and covering from the onslaught of (likely) flawed parts heaving
their way towards my head
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Good MG midget design?!?! was: Sticky brake
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Just about the best steering and gearchange (shortening the stick helps) of any car.  What's not to like?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Miller" <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Cc: pethier@comcast.net
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 9:55:09 PM
> Subject: Good MG midget design?!?! was: Sticky brake
> <<<My MG Midget had a zerk fitting on the middle of the parking-brake
> cable.
> A shot of grease there meant no parking-brake-cable problems ever.>>>
> 
> I owned a midget for a couple of years and this is the first time I
> ever
> heard anyone say anything good about their engineering. I certainly
> never
> did.
> 
> Mark Miller
> Ducking and covering from the onslaught of (likely) flawed parts
> heaving
> their way towards my head
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 13 09:25:26 2013
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From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>, <eric@megageek.com>
References: <OFC71D2D8C.400A7817-ON85257B10.00390548-85257B10.003AB991@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2013 10:11:58 -0600
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If I am not mistaken that defines exactly what happens with the "frozen 
cable".

Water gets into the cable housing and freezes. When you apply the hand brake 
there is tremendous leverage and you can easily apply enough force to 
overcome the freeze and set the parking brake. Return a few hours later and 
things have refrozen but the only force available to pull the cable back 
thru the housing is the spring at the caliper end. Not nearly enough to 
overcome the frozen cable. Therefore the brake does not release and the 
lever moves about the cabin freely as the spring force that normally 
provides the resistance you feel is being held up by the frozen cable.

Options include: Do not use the parking brake in cold weather ... use the 
parking brake but include "gentle prying" as part of the 'release parking 
brake' incantation ... try to remove the water from the cable ... replace 
the cable as the rubber boots that are suppose to prevent water from getting 
in there in the first place may be shot.

If I recall correctly, when I replaced mine I shot a lot of motorcycle cable 
lubricant into the new ones on my '93 MR2 in an effort to stave of the 
inevitable water entry as long as possible.

Arvid

-----Original Message----- 
From: eric@megageek.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 4:26 AM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake

David writes...

> But I thought Eric said the cable wasn't the problem on his Spyder?


When the brake is frozen, I can move the handle up and down w/out
resistance.  I would image that if the cable as frozen, the hand brake
lever wouldn't move.

I was able to free it up by gently prying the brake pad away from the
rotor this last time when the brake was frozen.

Thanks again for all the help.  I'm still considering the new cable as a
"try it" method.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj@visi.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 16 15:06:51 2013
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 15:55:05 -0600
From: "Lee Daniels" <lee@automate-it.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Sanding cylinders on drill press
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a "mini" Craftsman drill press that's useful for relatively small
projects. I've had it for several years and use it occasionally. It came with
several "cylinders" for sanding, but I have no idea what these are really good
for. I tossed them up on the shelf when I set up the press and they've been
there ever since. I came across them again to day when cleaning up. See a
photo here:
  http://www.automate-it.com/photos/0sanding.jpg
I assume there's a use for which they're ideally suited - what would that be?

thanks,
 Lee
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 16 15:12:00 2013
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	<57f4447e8665b4a10005be87aeb6b6d3.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 17:05:39 -0500
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
To: Lee Daniels <lee@automate-it.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sanding cylinders on drill press
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I inherited boxes of those of all different lengths and diameters from my
father.  He used them any time he had to smooth the edges on small pieces
when he did woodworking.  For instance, to finish up wooden shelf brackets
or similar.

-Paul

On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 4:55 PM, Lee Daniels <lee@automate-it.com> wrote:

> I have a "mini" Craftsman drill press that's useful for relatively small
> projects. I've had it for several years and use it occasionally. It came
> with
> several "cylinders" for sanding, but I have no idea what these are really
> good
> for. I tossed them up on the shelf when I set up the press and they've been
> there ever since. I came across them again to day when cleaning up. See a
> photo here:
>   http://www.automate-it.com/photos/0sanding.jpg
> I assume there's a use for which they're ideally suited - what would that
> be?
>
> thanks,
>  Lee
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 16 15:21:11 2013
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From: ejrussell@mebtel.net
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, "Lee Daniels" <lee@automate-it.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 17:11:41 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sanding cylinders on drill press
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Quoting Lee Daniels <lee@automate-it.com>:
> I assume there's a use for which they're ideally suited - what would that be?

Umm, sanding concave curves... 

I use similar items frequently on woodworking projects. If you can use 
one hand to hold the project piece and the other to move the drill 
press spindle up & down you'll get an even finer finish. I also made an 
auxillary table with a hole in it so the sanding drum can project below 
the surface slightly - that way the entire edge gets sanded without 
having the sanding drum contacting the table. 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 18:05:53 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/16/2013 18:03:59, Serialize complete at
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks
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I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck. 
Anyone know of one.

Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read <no batteries>) and it 
would be back lit.  (one that came on with the truck would be perfect.)

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 16 16:52:01 2013
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Auto thermometers and clocks
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Eric, I can't offer much on your search, but maybe someone out there knows 
where I can find an altimeter that is made for putting in/on the dash.  I 
haven't seen anything anywhere.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric@megageek.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 3:05 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks


>I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck.
> Anyone know of one.
>
> Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read <no batteries>) and it
> would be back lit.  (one that came on with the truck would be perfect.)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722@comcast.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 16 16:57:46 2013
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 18:51:24 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've been looking at this one but haven't bought one yet.

http://www.altimeters.net/altaltilinq.html

Brad



On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 6:40 PM, Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:

> Eric, I can't offer much on your search, but maybe someone out there knows
> where I can find an altimeter that is made for putting in/on the dash.  I
> haven't seen anything anywhere.
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <eric@megageek.com>
> To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 3:05 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks
>
>
>  I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck.
>> Anyone know of one.
>>
>> Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read <no batteries>) and it
>> would be back lit.  (one that came on with the truck would be perfect.)
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Eric P
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
>> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
>> Waldo Emerson
>> ______________________________**_________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/shop-talk/phoenix722@**comcast.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722@comcast.net>
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/shop-talk/bkahler1@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bkahler1@gmail.com>
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 15:58:23 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Lee Daniels <lee@automate-it.com>
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	<57f4447e8665b4a10005be87aeb6b6d3.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sanding cylinders on drill press
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Lee - they are great for sanding curved edges that you cut with a jig, 
band, or scroll saw.  Take a piece of thick plywood or a 1x and cut a 
hole about 1/2" bigger than the sanding bit you are using and clamp it 
to the drill press table.  Raise the table so the edge of the bit is 
below the board with the hole and sand away.  Start at low speed, 
especially with the larger sanding bits.  Use the biggest bit that fits 
the curve for the smoothest results.

Brian
On 2/16/2013 1:55 PM, Lee Daniels wrote:
> I have a "mini" Craftsman drill press that's useful for relatively small
> projects. I've had it for several years and use it occasionally. It came with
> several "cylinders" for sanding, but I have no idea what these are really good
> for. I tossed them up on the shelf when I set up the press and they've been
> there ever since. I came across them again to day when cleaning up. See a
> photo here:
>    http://www.automate-it.com/photos/0sanding.jpg
> I assume there's a use for which they're ideally suited - what would that be?
>
> thanks,
>   Lee
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Mike'" <phoenix722@comcast.net>, "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 16:02:34 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac4Mn8eyqECXQvzxSSGegOP8h/1CmwAAWpVA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Auto thermometers and clocks
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> Eric, I can't offer much on your search, but maybe someone 
> out there knows where I can find an altimeter that is made 
> for putting in/on the dash. 

If you Google for "dash altimeter" (without the quotes), you'll get lots of
hits.  I didn't see any designed to mount in the dash, but lots and lots
designed to mount on top.  This is a typical example:
http://goo.gl/pAjtH

As an alternative, you might look into a GPS unit that displays altitude.
They have to solve for it internally, the only question is whether it will
display it or not.  Since the GPS is not affected by barometric pressure, it
should be more accurate.

-- Randall 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 19:10:41 -0500
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
	mail.megageek.com>
References: <OF8450397F.5A5A78B7-ON85257B14.007E82F9-85257B14.00803FCD@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks
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At 06:05 PM 2/16/2013, eric@megageek.com wrote:

 >I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck.
 >Anyone know of one.

Check your local walmart store.  My kids got me one for Xmas < $10

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bell-Lighted-In-Out-Thermometer-Clock/14324182

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 16 18:47:39 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 17:41:15 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac4Mo89zvrIKWCPHRnOUrPWyOBcjuQACwlfQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks
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>  Figure +/- 75 feet for most 
> situations. 

Wow, is consumer GPS really that bad?  I'll admit I'm out of touch, since I
work in a higher accuracy field; but we can generally hit within a foot (20
cm RMS) even with just WAAS corrections.  And we get all kinds of heat if
we're off by even 6" with our global correction service.  Local network RTK
is even better.

-- Randall 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 16 19:14:23 2013
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 21:07:56 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 8:41 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
> Wow, is consumer GPS really that bad?


The average dashboard GPS is lucky to get within a hundred feet.  It
uses an algorithm that assumes you are on a roadway to put your car
icon in the right place...

> I'll admit I'm out of touch, since I
> work in a higher accuracy field; but we can generally hit within a foot (20
> cm RMS) even with just WAAS corrections.  And we get all kinds of heat if
> we're off by even 6" with our global correction service.  Local network RTK
> is even better.

Having spent some time in that field myself, I know just what you
mean.   With GPS plus a correction service, I was able to use the last
recorded position to go back out later and find the receiver battery
that fell off the tractor without anyone noticing.  The system took me
to within 6 inches of where the battery was half-buried in the tall
grass.  But our Trimble R6 base and rover could do better than
that...I've been able to locate plot corners from previous year's
experiments by navigating to the spot and digging directly underneath
the base of the rover pole.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 16 19:29:11 2013
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 21:14:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Auto thermometers and clocks
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I can't add anything else either but I'd be interested in most of the 
below with a compass added.......
tim


On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 5:40 PM, Mike wrote:

> Eric, I can't offer much on your search, but maybe someone out there 
> knows where I can find an altimeter that is made for putting in/on the 
> dash.  I haven't seen anything anywhere.
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <eric@megageek.com>
> To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 3:05 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks
>
>
>> I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my 
>> truck.
>> Anyone know of one.
>>
>> Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read <no batteries>) 
>> and it
>> would be back lit.  (one that came on with the truck would be 
>> perfect.)
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Eric P
>> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
>> rational
>> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." 
>> Ralph
>> Waldo Emerson
>> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 22:40:36 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sanding cylinders on drill press
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Or rotate the table way off to one side, so the drum can project a bit
below the table.

Doug

On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 6:58 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:

>   Take a piece of thick plywood or a 1x and cut a hole about 1/2" bigger
> than the sanding bit you are using and clamp it to the drill press table.
>  Raise the table so the edge of the bit is below the board with the hole
> and sand away.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 22:42:38 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Time to browse the venerable J.C. Whitney catalog...
Doug

On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 6:05 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck.
> Anyone know of one.
>
> Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read <no batteries>) and it
> would be back lit.  (one that came on with the truck would be perfect.)
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 19:57:10 -0800
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Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Auto thermometers and clocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My experience with onboard compasses (compassi?) is not so great.  Last one 
I had was accurate to about plus or minus 1800.  I'm sure there are better 
ones out there, but it is difficult to install in a car and expect much 
accuracy.

Mike
===================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 6:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks


>I can't add anything else either but I'd be interested in most of the below 
>with a compass added.......
> tim
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 16 21:28:59 2013
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 20:23:24 -0800
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Fw:  Auto thermometers and clocks
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Lets try 180 degrees.
=================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>
Cc: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks


> My experience with onboard compasses (compassi?) is not so great.  Last 
> one I had was accurate to about plus or minus 1800.  I'm sure there are 
> better ones out there, but it is difficult to install in a car and expect 
> much accuracy.
>
> Mike
> ===================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>
> To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 6:14 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks
>
>
>>I can't add anything else either but I'd be interested in most of the 
>>below with a compass added.......
>> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722@comcast.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Feb 17 09:33:48 2013
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CB6D90307B4D4B66B42CD111B18F8621@Mike>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 08:24:31 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac4Mn8qtuJXpeGU+Tj6SpHI+tj/P0gAiooLg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Auto thermometers and clocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Many of the newer GPS' have altitude as a screen display.  OTOH mine has
read as low as -19 near the ocean.  It's close, but it's calculated off
several satellites, so YMMV.  For me, it's good enough and sometimes
amusing. 

Clock and outside temp:  There are numerous $5-$20 solutions.  Find one for
a home.  Yes, they take batteries, but you will change then once a year.  If
you want hardwired, stepping 12v down to 3v won't be too hard.


-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 3:41 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: Auto thermometers and clocks

Eric, I can't offer much on your search, but maybe someone out there knows 
where I can find an altimeter that is made for putting in/on the dash.  I 
haven't seen anything anywhere.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric@megageek.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 3:05 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks


>I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck.
> Anyone know of one.
>
> Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read <no batteries>) and it
> would be back lit.  (one that came on with the truck would be perfect.)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 18 09:33:13 2013
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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 11:26:18 -0500
To: Shop-Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Auto thermometers and clocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Your smartphone should be able to tell you much of this info. My Android
phone has an app called "Altitude" that provides this information using the
built-in GPS in my Motorola Atrix 4G. It doesn't report accuracy values,
but once it settles on a reading, it doesn't move much. I am sure there are
better apps. My Blackberry Curve of 2007 would report accuracy values of 3m
- so I don't think the GPS in a modern smartphone is all that inaccurate.

I know that the item below satisfies none of the requirements that Inch
stated, but this is another item to put in any (modern-ish) vehicle...

http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm


On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 6:05 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> I am looking for an add-on clock and external thermometer for my truck.
> Anyone know of one.
>
> Ideally, it would be hard wired to the truck (read <no batteries>) and it
> would be back lit.  (one that came on with the truck would be perfect.)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 10:47:38 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] chain hoist certification
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I work for a pipefitting/construction company and in our work we use a lot of
manual chainfalls.

I'm looking for the equipment that will allow us to test and certify these
chain falls before we send them out on a job...  I know we'll probably have to
send someone to training on the test required, but I'm looking for some
information on the equipment (scales, frames, etc ) used to make the tests..

any of you guys deal with this stuff ???

thanks
John
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Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 18:41:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Dent puller
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

In the show 'Wheeler Dealers' they have used a dent puller that I would like to find and buy. It works by spot welding a number of fingers that are then attached to the "puller" by hooks. The puller has handle that pulls on the hooks by turning a handle. It looks very simple to operate. Has anyone seen the show and the use of this dent puller? If you know where I can purchase this tool please let me knw. I've already checcked Harbor Freight and Amazon's websites and they did not have it.
Thanks
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 18 19:59:33 2013
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Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 21:53:01 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd:  Dent puller
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Go to Eastwood.com and search for "Uni-Wire".

Doug

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 9:41 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Dent puller
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>


In the show 'Wheeler Dealers' they have used a dent puller that I would
like to find and buy. It works by spot welding a number of fingers that are
then attached to the "puller" by hooks. The puller has handle that pulls on
the hooks by turning a handle. It looks very simple to operate. Has anyone
seen the show and the use of this dent puller? If you know where I can
purchase this tool please let me knw. I've already checcked Harbor Freight
and Amazon's websites and they did not have it.
Thanks
____________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 18 20:02:56 2013
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Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 20:55:57 -0600
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dent puller
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

It is very cool and remember researching it the first time Ed used it. Got
the name (which I no longer remember) off of the unit and plugged it into
Google. I seem to recall it was a UK/European company and it was way too
rich for my pocket book. It's basically a fancy stud gun that tack welds
the tabs with the slots along a crease in a body panel you want to pull.
Then a rod is inserted in the slots and the crease pulled out.

I remember stud guns starting to show up on the Spike/Powerblock shows two
or three years ago. These tack a short piece of rod where you want to pull
out a panel. You then use the slide hammer that comes with the kit to pull
the crease out I think prices start at around $300 or so from Eastwood. Not
as elegant as the setup on Wheelers Dealers, but much more affordable for
hobbyists.

FWIW,
Ron

On Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 8:41 PM, Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com> wrote:

> In the show 'Wheeler Dealers' they have used a dent puller that I would
> like to find and buy. It works by spot welding a number of fingers that are
> then attached to the "puller" by hooks. The puller has handle that pulls on
> the hooks by turning a handle. It looks very simple to operate. Has anyone
> seen the show and the use of this dent puller? If you know where I can
> purchase this tool please let me knw. I've already checcked Harbor Freight
> and Amazon's websites and they did not have it.
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb 18 20:19:03 2013
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Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 22:12:29 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dent puller
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I got a generic stud-welder setup from Harbor Freight a few years ago, for
$99 or so, and it has been very useful.  It seems like 80% of the dents I
have needed to fix were in places where there was no access to the back of
the panel, or the back was covered with undercoating, or I would have had
to remove an interior panel for access.  In situations like this, the stud
welder is very quick and easy to use.

Doug


On Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 9:55 PM, Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> I remember stud guns starting to show up on the Spike/Powerblock shows two
> or three years ago. These tack a short piece of rod where you want to pull
> out a panel. You then use the slide hammer that comes with the kit to pull
> the crease out I think prices start at around $300 or so from Eastwood. Not
> as elegant as the setup on Wheelers Dealers, but much more affordable for
> hobbyists.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Feb 22 16:35:34 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 18:16:45 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/22/2013 18:15:44, Serialize complete at
	02/22/2013 18:15:44
Subject: [Shop-talk] Off-topic-post alert. Anyone know of a good credit
 check database for landlords?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello all,

Since it's cold out and traffic here is real low, I'd thought I'd bother 
the list with a non-shop related question...

It's been years since I had to replace a tenant, so I don't know which 
credit background check databases are good for landlords doing checks.

I have name, DOB, and SSN.

Free is great, but I don't mind paying a modest fee.

Thanks in advance.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 22:56:21 -0600
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Off-topic-post alert. Anyone know of a good credit
 check database for landlords?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Feb 22, 2013 at 5:16 PM,  <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Since it's cold out and traffic here is real low, I'd thought I'd bother
> the list with a non-shop related question...
>
> It's been years since I had to replace a tenant, so I don't know which
> credit background check databases are good for landlords doing checks.
>
> I have name, DOB, and SSN.
>
> Free is great, but I don't mind paying a modest fee.
>
>

You'll need the current address, and possibly previous addresses.  You
also need permission to run a credit check; your state may require you
to get it writing, and it's a good idea to, even if they don't.

My co-op association (via the management company) has used several
different companies, and they all suck.  That's not helpful, but It's
what we've found.  Some of it is data related, some states and
counties don't report data electronically, or do it rather
sporadically.  So criminal (mostly misdemeanor) and small scale civil
(like, oh, evictions) might no't show up or show up horribly wrong.
Some of the reporting services are tied to one of the credit bureaus,
and so won't use the other two's data.  If they're wrong, you may make
a bad decision.


-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 26 13:37:24 2013
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From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
To: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 14:30:10 -0600
	FILETIME=[12A45AA0:01CE1460]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive framing nailer/compressor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I would like to buy a framing nailer.  I dont want to spend a lot as this is
not something I will use often, but after recently borrowing one I realize how
nice they are when needed.  I would like to keep the total costs under $200
and I am weighing my options.  Does anyone here have any recommendations?  I
could certainly buy new at HF and keep within my budget, but would want to
know that someone else had bought one and found it ok.
Thanks.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 26 14:07:25 2013
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Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 15:00:13 -0600
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive framing nailer/compressor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Keep an eye on the Home Depot and Lowes ads. We got a couple of refurbed
Ridgids from HD several years ago for around $170 each, IIRC. It was going
to cost us more than the total to rent one locally over two weekends and
the week in between.

On Tue, Feb 26, 2013 at 2:30 PM, Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com> wrote:

> I would like to buy a framing nailer.  I don t want to spend a lot as this
> is
> not something I will use often, but after recently borrowing one I realize
> how
> nice they are when needed.  I would like to keep the total costs under $200
> and I am weighing my options.  Does anyone here have any recommendations?
>  I
> could certainly buy new at HF and keep within my budget, but would want to
> know that someone else had bought one and found it ok.
> Thanks.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 26 20:40:12 2013
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Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 19:31:21 -0800
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
References: <COL002-W54D08BDBCEE511CEAF8BEDCCFC0@phx.gbl>
Cc: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive framing nailer/compressor
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I have a couple year old HF framing nailer and it works ok.  I also have 
a box of HF nails of the maximum gauge that the gun can use. The nails 
are kind of thin compared to a 10 penny nail and I've had a few curve 
due to the grain of the 2x lumber.

Last summer I had a contractor help me rebuild a 45' long cantilevered 
balcony and used his Rigid nailer.  For an engineered sheer panel, we 
needed to shoot 10 penny nails ($75 a box) that my HF nailer couldn't 
hold.  His gun shot every nail perfect with consistent results.  Mine 
didn't.  While the HF  nailer didn't have any jams, head depth was very 
inconsistent.  There was also a noticeable difference in ergonomics.   
The Rigid nailer felt more comfortable, better balanced, and easier to 
use.  His gun also shot my cheap nails for blocking, though he did 
comment on their flexibility.

When I used my nailer for a balance beam for my gymnast daughter, the 
nailer worked fine.  I had a lamination of trimmed framing lumber that I 
glued and clamped then filled with nails so I could move on to the next 
piece, so all nails were straight in and not at an edge.  Only one bent 
enough to come out the side, so that went well.

This is definetly a case of you get what you pay for.  I spent about $70 
when I got mine after the sale price and a 20% off coupon.  I think he 
said his was $250.  Doing it over, I'd probable look a little higher if 
I was going to use it a bunch.

I also caution you to watch out for nailers that use clipped head nails 
instead of full head nails.  Some building departments don't allow 
clipped head nails.  Hopefully I have the wording right here. Instead of 
a full round head, part of the head is missing, I would assume to allow 
the nails to be closer together.

Brian

On 2/26/2013 12:30 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
> I would like to buy a framing nailer.  I dont want to spend a lot as this is
> not something I will use often, but after recently borrowing one I realize how
> nice they are when needed.  I would like to keep the total costs under $200
> and I am weighing my options.  Does anyone here have any recommendations?  I
> could certainly buy new at HF and keep within my budget, but would want to
> know that someone else had bought one and found it ok.
> Thanks.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 21:39:50 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac4UnBffJqDy/9kgR3mcHfw0pERjhw==
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Which diodes for a battery charger?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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My old Schumacher battery charger has been dead for years.  Used to be able
to go to the factory for new diodes, fixed inexpensively while I waited, but
they moved away.  I'd like to repair it with better diodes this time.  I'll
also put a muffin fan into the case to help cool the diodes and the huge
transformer.

 

The present diodes are little buttons that appear to just be clamped between
a brass contact plate and an indentation in the aluminum flat plate heat
sink.  They're Motorola diodes, MR2502 on one transformer lead (a pair) and
W9312 on the other transformer lead.  The charger is 10 amps continuous, 30
amps fast boost (duty cycle 10 minutes on, 12 minutes off), and 50 amps
motor starting (duty cycle 2 minutes on, 5 minutes off)

 

I look at diodes and see all sorts of ratings, and don't know what's better
and what's overkill.  May I please have a recommendation as to what rating,
etc.?  A part number to order from XXX company would be even better.

 

Also - are there positive and negative orientations to the diodes in there
bow?  They're not marked, and if their polarity is related to label
orientation, then one pair is mounted with both oriented the same direction,
while the pair on the other lead are oriented opposite each other.

 

Thanks!

Karl
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 21:44:53 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac4UnMsggAVpCLYwSVe3saEuodCSsA==
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Subject: [Shop-talk] A different battery charger question
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Working on my old Schumacher battery charger got me to thinking about
another battery charger I have.  It came from a Clarke floor machine, and
it's a heavy amperage 24-volt charger.  No fan, just a transformer and a
rectifier circuit.  But it's 24 volts, and there are NOT alternate taps on
the transformer.

 

To drop it to 12 volts, could I use a 2:1 step-down transformer in the power
line in, and thus run the transformer on 55 volts input?  Or is there any
other simple way to convert this heavy charger to 12 volts?

 

Thanks!
Karl
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 26 21:01:55 2013
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To: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
References: <COL002-W54D08BDBCEE511CEAF8BEDCCFC0@phx.gbl>
Cc: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive framing nailer/compressor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I got a little twin tank compressor from Harbor Freight which seems to 
work ok.  For a nailer, I got a used Hitachi NR83A2 from a pawn shop; 
they had a bunch of them and I got the best looking one. That's the only 
nailer I ever seem to see the guys on framing crews use and they seem 
totally bulletproof.  It's also easy to get parts and nails for them.


On 2/26/2013 12:30 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
> I would like to buy a framing nailer.  I dont want to spend a lot as this is
> not something I will use often, but after recently borrowing one I realize how
> nice they are when needed.  I would like to keep the total costs under $200
> and I am weighing my options.  Does anyone here have any recommendations?  I
> could certainly buy new at HF and keep within my budget, but would want to
> know that someone else had bought one and found it ok.
> Thanks.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 26 21:49:04 2013
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 04:41:50 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Karl Vacek <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A different battery charger question
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I believe that would work. I expect that the current you require would be a lot less than this monster can handle.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:44:53 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] A different battery charger question
> Working on my old Schumacher battery charger got me to thinking about
> another battery charger I have. It came from a Clarke floor machine,
> and
> it's a heavy amperage 24-volt charger. No fan, just a transformer and
> a
> rectifier circuit. But it's 24 volts, and there are NOT alternate taps
> on
> the transformer.
> 
> 
> 
> To drop it to 12 volts, could I use a 2:1 step-down transformer in the
> power
> line in, and thus run the transformer on 55 volts input? Or is there
> any
> other simple way to convert this heavy charger to 12 volts?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> Karl
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier@comcast.net
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References: <000c01ce149c$19504df0$4bf0e9d0$@Ameritech.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 22:54:05 -0600
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: Karl Vacek <KVacek@ameritech.net>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Which diodes for a battery charger?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Feb 26, 2013 at 9:39 PM, Karl Vacek <KVacek@ameritech.net> wrote:
>
>
> Also - are there positive and negative orientations to the diodes in there
> bow?  They're not marked, and if their polarity is related to label
> orientation, then one pair is mounted with both oriented the same direction,
> while the pair on the other lead are oriented opposite each other.

I'd have to spend some time with a catalog to figure out what you've
got, but diodes definitely are polarity sensitive. That's pretty much
the definition of a diode.  An ideal diode passes current with zero
resistance one direction, and with infinite resistance the other.  It
seems unlikely the factory would have repaired it wrong, but who
knows. Tyically, there's a stripe or band or blob of paint at the
cathode side (negative).  sometimes it's an arrow.  Some use the
length of the pins to tell you, but I don't remember if there's a
standard way to do that or not.

I've run across circuits that have had totally unlabeled diodes too.
Those you test.....



-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 05:14:18 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Karl Vacek <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
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Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Which diodes for a battery charger?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Any diode tough enough to be used in a battery charger will not be damaged by an ohm-meter, so you can figure out the polarity that way.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:39:50 PM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Which diodes for a battery charger?
> My old Schumacher battery charger has been dead for years. Used to be
> able
> to go to the factory for new diodes, fixed inexpensively while I
> waited, but
> they moved away. I'd like to repair it with better diodes this time.
> I'll
> also put a muffin fan into the case to help cool the diodes and the
> huge
> transformer.
> 
> 
> 
> The present diodes are little buttons that appear to just be clamped
> between
> a brass contact plate and an indentation in the aluminum flat plate
> heat
> sink. They're Motorola diodes, MR2502 on one transformer lead (a pair)
> and
> W9312 on the other transformer lead. The charger is 10 amps
> continuous, 30
> amps fast boost (duty cycle 10 minutes on, 12 minutes off), and 50
> amps
> motor starting (duty cycle 2 minutes on, 5 minutes off)
> 
> 
> 
> I look at diodes and see all sorts of ratings, and don't know what's
> better
> and what's overkill. May I please have a recommendation as to what
> rating,
> etc.? A part number to order from XXX company would be even better.
> 
> 
> 
> Also - are there positive and negative orientations to the diodes in
> there
> bow? They're not marked, and if their polarity is related to label
> orientation, then one pair is mounted with both oriented the same
> direction,
> while the pair on the other lead are oriented opposite each other.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Karl
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 26 22:41:00 2013
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Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 22:32:18 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:18.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/18.0 SeaMonkey/2.15.1
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <000c01ce149c$19504df0$4bf0e9d0$@Ameritech.net>
	<CA+k5sup0DJ-dWjL_noxMFaaTNBK2Y_8geg3__TnzUPaVcokkEw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Which diodes for a battery charger?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

 >  Also - are there positive and negative orientations to the diodes in
 >  there bow? They're not marked, and if their polarity is related to 
label orientation,
 > then one pair is mounted with both oriented the same direction, while 
the pair on
 > the other lead are oriented opposite each other.

Are you familiar with a circuit diagram for a diode bridge?  Most likely 
that
is what you are looking at here.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Feb 26 23:32:41 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Karl Vacek'" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 22:25:32 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac4UnMsggAVpCLYwSVe3saEuodCSsAAFcOkA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] A different battery charger question
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> To drop it to 12 volts, could I use a 2:1 step-down 
> transformer in the power line in, and thus run the 
> transformer on 55 volts input?  

Should work, but you might wind up spending as much on the step-down as the
proper transformer would cost.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 00:08:23 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Karl Vacek'" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 23:01:03 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac4UnBffJqDy/9kgR3mcHfw0pERjhwAFzZ4Q
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Which diodes for a battery charger?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> The charger is 10 amps 
> continuous, 30 amps fast boost (duty cycle 10 minutes on, 12 
> minutes off), and 50 amps motor starting (duty cycle 2 
> minutes on, 5 minutes off)

That's interesting.  I have an old Schumacher charger with very similar, if
not identical, ratings; but it only uses two diodes.  I guess they decided
that two more diodes were cheaper than the extra transformer winding.

Anyway, when the original diodes gave out (and it was given to me), I
repaired it with the diode plate from an old car alternator.  Car
alternators are 3 phase and usually only one diode fails, so you can still
get a full-wave (single phase) rectifier out of a bad alternator.  And they
are some seriously heavy duty diodes, especially if you arrange for some air
flow across the mounting plate.  I just hung it on some standoffs, and let
the air convect over it.  That had to be over 20 years ago now, and it's
still going strong.  In fact, I used it to start the TR3 yesterday (looks
like maybe my battery is going bad).

But a MR2502 is apparently only rated at 25 amps, which seems way low for a
50 amp charger.
http://goo.gl/5OBz8

Maybe that's why they didn't last very long?

If you don't want to mess with alternator diodes, here's some that should be
good enough.  60 amps continuous, over 1000 amps peak. $3 each.
http://goo.gl/MJHBO
Here's a datasheet
http://goo.gl/3iYq0

Be sure to use insulators where appropriate, and a little heat sink compound
wouldn't hurt either.

-- Randall 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 06:33:47 2013
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	Wed, 27 Feb 2013 05:26:29 -0800
From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 07:26:29 -0600
References: <COL002-W54D08BDBCEE511CEAF8BEDCCFC0@phx.gbl>,
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	FILETIME=[0D480A00:01CE14EE]
Cc: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive framing nailer/compressor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks guys.  I have a bit of time, so I will keep my eyes open (and maybe
stop by a pawn shop or two) and try to find something better than HF and keep
that as a fallback if I run out of time.

> Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 19:54:52 -0800
> From: cavanadd@frontier.com
> To: jandkstone99@msn.com
> CC: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Inexpensive framing nailer/compressor
>
> I got a little twin tank compressor from Harbor Freight which seems to
> work ok.  For a nailer, I got a used Hitachi NR83A2 from a pawn shop;
> they had a bunch of them and I got the best looking one. That's the only
> nailer I ever seem to see the guys on framing crews use and they seem
> totally bulletproof.  It's also easy to get parts and nails for them.
>
>
> On 2/26/2013 12:30 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
> > I would like to buy a framing nailer.  I dont want to spend a lot as this
is
> > not something I will use often, but after recently borrowing one I realize
how
> > nice they are when needed.  I would like to keep the total costs under
$200
> > and I am weighing my options.  Does anyone here have any recommendations?
I
> > could certainly buy new at HF and keep within my budget, but would want
to
> > know that someone else had bought one and found it ok.
> > Thanks.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 09:19:56 2013
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From: "Doug Armstrong" <darmstrong@nexicom.net>
To: "'Shop Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 11:08:09 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac4Ulz8B+F+M0ABERwe3LtgTf5W56AAbIOMAAAAQMwAAABMNcAAACwkg
Subject: [Shop-talk] Find Your First Car Brochure
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I'm not sure if this has been around before.

 

This is really cool. Find your first car. This has to be one of the neatest
web sites whether you have gasoline in your veins or not. This is a website
featuring the original factory brochures for almost every American car. Pick
the manufacturer, the year and the model.  These are American models I
think.
  
  
  <http://www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html> www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html 
  

Doug Armstrong

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2899 / Virus Database: 2639/6123 - Release Date: 02/22/13
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 12:43:08 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 11:16:04 -0800
Subject: [Shop-talk] Corrosion protection for tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ibm rebuilding two vises (actually one is a vise, the other is a
vice...itbs European<grin>).
The Wilton vise has a handle that I canbt remove so Ibm looking for some
bare metal
corrosion protection.  The other vice (6b Sambre et Meuse from Belgium) has
both the
main handle and the locking swivel nut handles that may also need similar bare
metal
protection.

I remember a product called Boeshield T-9 (or similar), but was wondering if
anyone
has had any experience with itbs use on tools, etc.
Thanks.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 12:54:48 2013
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 19:25:41 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Doug Armstrong <darmstrong@nexicom.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1361993142;
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Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Find Your First Car Brochure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Found 1932 Auburn, but did not find a picture of my dad's straight-8 Cabriolet.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Armstrong" <darmstrong@nexicom.net>
> To: "Shop Talk List" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 10:08:09 AM
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Find Your First Car Brochure
> I'm not sure if this has been around before.
> 
> 
> 
> This is really cool. Find your first car. This has to be one of the
> neatest
> web sites whether you have gasoline in your veins or not. This is a
> website
> featuring the original factory brochures for almost every American
> car. Pick
> the manufacturer, the year and the model. These are American models I
> think.
> 
> 
> <http://www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html> www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html
> 
> 
> Doug Armstrong
> 
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2899 / Virus Database: 2639/6123 - Release Date:
> 02/22/13
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier@comcast.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 13:38:18 2013
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 15:27:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Shop-talk] Host file
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner 
adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that 
person please send it to me (agian)?

Thanks!!
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <5c432b0f.3cf1dd.13d1d56aced.Webtop.48@charter.net>
From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 15:49:43 -0500
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Host file
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Tim-

I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well and very
transparently for me.

Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts file on
18-October 2012.

http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host

I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. The DNS
is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an error.

-Peter



On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote:

> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner
> adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that
> person please send it to me (agian)?
>
> Thanks!!
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 15:26:58 2013
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From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 16:49:53 -0500
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Host file
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Looks like Eric's site is back up again, if you want to try to grab that
file.

-Peter


On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:49 PM, Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>wrote:

> Tim-
>
> I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well and
> very transparently for me.
>
> Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts file on
> 18-October 2012.
>
>
> http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host
>
> I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. The DNS
> is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an error.
>
> -Peter
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner
>> adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that
>> person please send it to me (agian)?
>>
>> Thanks!!
>> tim
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 15:42:38 2013
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 14:13:28 -0800
From: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130106
	Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <5c432b0f.3cf1dd.13d1d56aced.Webtop.48@charter.net>
	<CAJ8HLP_WOKrB-MBT3fggQizJmh+M_33vRKf599du91BZ3LsPJw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Host file
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Adblock works much better than a static hosts file.  That's 1996 technology.

Eric


On 02/27/2013 12:49 PM, Peter Murray wrote:
> Tim-
>
> I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well and very
> transparently for me.
>
> Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts file on
> 18-October 2012.
>
> http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host
>
> I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. The DNS
> is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an error.
>
> -Peter
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner
>> adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that
>> person please send it to me (agian)?
>>
>> Thanks!!
>> tim
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ericm@lne.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 16:42:04 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 18:00:42 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/27/2013 18:00:45, Serialize complete at
	02/27/2013 18:00:45
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Host file
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

For anyone else that might want the file, you can d/l it at my website...

>http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host<

It's a proven spam and ad fighting technique!

(I make no money on this and it cost you nothing, I just hate spam and I 
want to see it gone!)


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 


Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner 
adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that 
person please send it to me (agian)?

Thanks!!
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric@megageek.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 16:42:28 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 18:02:56 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/27/2013 18:02:58, Serialize complete at
	02/27/2013 18:02:58
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Host file
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Can you check again?  It seems to work for me.

(BTW, it's not a share hosted file.  All my webpages and files are hosted 
on my personal webserver, so if my connection is up, it should all be 
there.) 

I was having some funny issues at work today trying to soft VPN in.  I'll 
take a look later, my SO is really sick and she needs me by her side.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 



Tim-

I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well and 
very
transparently for me.

Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts file on
18-October 2012.

http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host


I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. The DNS
is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an 
error.

-Peter



On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote:

> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner
> adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that
> person please send it to me (agian)?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 16:42:45 2013
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 15:16:55 -0800
From: Mike Rambour <lists@dinospider.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120827
	Thunderbird/15.0
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <5c432b0f.3cf1dd.13d1d56aced.Webtop.48@charter.net>
	<CAJ8HLP_WOKrB-MBT3fggQizJmh+M_33vRKf599du91BZ3LsPJw@mail.gmail.com>
	<512E8508.7080801@lne.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Host file
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

  1996 technology that I got from Eric "inch" works REALLY great for me, 
way better than Adblock ever did, since Adblock stops the ads, the hosts 
file stops everything.  Your mileage may vary but sometimes the old 
technology is just better than the new stuff....


     mike


On 02/27/2013 02:13 PM, Eric Murray wrote:
> Adblock works much better than a static hosts file.  That's 1996 
> technology.
>
> Eric
>
>
> On 02/27/2013 12:49 PM, Peter Murray wrote:
>> Tim-
>>
>> I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well 
>> and very
>> transparently for me.
>>
>> Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts 
>> file on
>> 18-October 2012.
>>
>> http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host 
>>
>>
>> I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. 
>> The DNS
>> is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an 
>> error.
>>
>> -Peter
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner
>>> adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that
>>> person please send it to me (agian)?
>>>
>>> Thanks!!
>>> tim
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ericm@lne.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/lists@dinospider.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 16:43:03 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 18:04:47 -0500
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 02/27/2013 18:04:48, Serialize complete at
	02/27/2013 18:04:48
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Host file
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Yes, there are much better and newer ways to do it, but this is a free way 
that I found works better than most ad on products and it doesn't cost CPU 
cycles like some ad ons.

Note, I still use the ad ons as well, but I'm a 'belt and suspenders" guy 
when it come to security and protection.  8>)

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com> 
Sent by: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
02/27/2013 17:22

To
shop-talk@autox.team.net
cc

Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] Host file






Adblock works much better than a static hosts file.  That's 1996 
technology.

Eric


On 02/27/2013 12:49 PM, Peter Murray wrote:
> Tim-
>
> I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well and 
very
> transparently for me.
>
> Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts file 
on
> 18-October 2012.
>
> 
http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host

>
> I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. The 
DNS
> is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an 
error.
>
> -Peter
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes banner
>> adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that
>> person please send it to me (agian)?
>>
>> Thanks!!
>> tim
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric@megageek.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 27 20:17:22 2013
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Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 21:46:11 -0500
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT: truck & car fax question
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Hey Guys, sorry for an OT post,

But I am stuck in the market for a beater inexpensive vehicle. Was 
looking at a used 2001 Mazda B2500 truck. Which I guess is really a Ford 
Ranger more or less. Anyone have an unlimited CarFax account that could 
run a VIN for me? (pls reply off list) Or any general advice about that 
vehicle or engine. Would be my first time truck purchase.

-Thanks, Wayne
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 28 06:20:52 2013
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Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 07:56:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Host file
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Worked for me.
Thanks very much Eric!
I hope your SO feels better soon!!
tim


On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 5:02 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:

> Can you check again?  It seems to work for me.
>
> (BTW, it's not a share hosted file.  All my webpages and files are 
> hosted on my personal webserver, so if my connection is up, it should 
> all be there.)
> I was having some funny issues at work today trying to soft VPN in. 
> I'll take a look later, my SO is really sick and she needs me by her 
> side.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
>
>
> Tim-
>
> I use a plugin for Firefox called Adblock Plus. It works very well and 
> very
> transparently for me.
>
> Eric Petrevich (aka "Inch") had posted the below link to his hosts 
> file on
> 18-October 2012.
>
> 
> http://www.megageek.com/funstuff/fundoc.nsf/d601ad3d05e57888852566c00054521c/a60a238fb11251238525788c0044bcce?OpenDocument&Highlight=0,host
>
>
> I tried the link again just now, but couldn't connect to his site. The 
> DNS
> is working, but the shared server on which it is hosted is giving an 
> error.
>
> -Peter
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Someone on this list had provided a "dummy" host file that makes 
>> banner
>> adds not display. (I am totally wording this wrong) Anyway, can that
>> person please send it to me (agian)?
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

