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From: "Mark Miller" <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2013 11:48:47 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] .25mm too big
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A few options you could try:
Since the bolt is not the hard to get item perhaps reassemble the original
one and mash the threads a bit after the nut is on as a lock.
Or: bend the nut to create the locking effect you need.
Or: run a tap through the holes the bolt will go through followed by a
sacrificial bolt that you will strip the hole out with to open it up a bit.
Or: get way longer bolts and bend then to act as a lock.

Good luck, and let us know what you end up doing to solve the problem.

Mark Miller
Also a happy Datsun roadster owner, happier that my nuts are secure!



Tim said:
<<<
I bought longer bolts for the linkage on my webers so I could use two
regurlar nuts locked together instead of nylocks. They are M5-.8 and are
approx one quarter of one mm too big to fit through the linkage pivots. 
The bolts that came with the kit are also M5-.8.

M4s have too much slop and SAE bolts were too big as well.

I ran the new bolts through a die cutter but not much (enought) was cut off
(as expected).

I really don't want to try to drill out the linkage pivot and take a chance
of generating heat and screwing up the rubber bushing.

Thoughts please on what I can do to narrow down the bolts. Maybe a small
round file to try to open up the hole??

Thanks

tim
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  6 16:24:49 2013
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	UTC
From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2013 17:24:01 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] dimpling metal ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

maybe what you call it...  I need to 'dimple' a piece of metal just like a rim
is dimpled where it fits over the wheel studs... for the same reason...   I'm
making this (see links) and can't figure how to deform the metal into the
right shape...   hyd press with a rounded rod ??  I've got a hyd press (bench
top 20 ton) I use for bending metal...

it will be 1/16 or 1/8" plate and I need to do this pretty accurately so it
will fit the rim... I'm trying to copy a wheel lock gizmo I saw on the net...

http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/hub_closeup1.jpg
http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/back.jpg


suggestions...


Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  6 16:46:16 2013
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2013 18:46:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>
References: <00DD56FCFC3D49D482F0CC2AED9791A5@john5043a2d406>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.02 (BSF 1266 2009-07-14)
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dimpling metal ??
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

    You need, surprisingly enough, a dimple die.


On Fri, 6 Sep 2013, John Niolon wrote:

> maybe what you call it...  I need to 'dimple' a piece of metal just like a rim
> is dimpled where it fits over the wheel studs... for the same reason...   I'm
> making this (see links) and can't figure how to deform the metal into the
> right shape...   hyd press with a rounded rod ??  I've got a hyd press (bench
> top 20 ton) I use for bending metal...
>
> it will be 1/16 or 1/8" plate and I need to do this pretty accurately so it
> will fit the rim... I'm trying to copy a wheel lock gizmo I saw on the net...
>
> http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/hub_closeup1.jpg
> http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/back.jpg
>
>
> suggestions...
>
>
> Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/hillman@planet-torque.com
>
>

--
  David Hillman
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  7 04:32:15 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'John Niolon'" <jniolon@att.net>, "'shop-talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2013 03:32:00 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6rT+3BGAzNJhsGSQOUcz4EzMKY6wAYt3ww
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dimpling metal ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> maybe what you call it...  I need to 'dimple' a piece of 
> metal just like a rim
> is dimpled where it fits over the wheel studs... for the same 
> reason...   I'm
> making this (see links) and can't figure how to deform the 
> metal into the
> right shape...   hyd press with a rounded rod ?? 

For accuracy, I'm thinking you'll want a die that fits all 5 stud holes plus
a raised center section to engage the center hole; plus a pin that will fit
a stud hole in the die and an un-punched hole in your "wheel", and a punch
that will slide into each stud hole in the die.

So initially, the die will be located to the wheel by the center hole and
one lug hole; and the punch will be located to the die through the lug hole
that it is punching.  Once you've punched the first hole, put a bolt & lug
nut through that hole to keep the die in place against the "wheel" while you
punch the other 4 holes.

To make the die, you could lay out the center circle and the bolt circle,
then the 5 lug locations.  Center punch, drill & ream the lug holes, then
counter-sink them at the appropriate angle, extra deep to account for the
material you're going to take off next.  Also drill & ream a center hole to
a convenient size, so you can mount it in the lathe and face off enough
material to create a raised section to engage the center hole in the
"wheel".  If you don't have a lathe that big, you might be able to cobble up
some sort of hole saw to outline the raised section, then mill, grind or
file the other metal away.

Randall
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  7 05:38:47 2013
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Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2013 06:38:20 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <00DD56FCFC3D49D482F0CC2AED9791A5@john5043a2d406>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dimpling metal ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Rather than dimpling, how about building up the area around each stud 
and just cut a countersinked area at each stud into the thicker metal? 
You might want to also relieve the back of the area on the bottom of 
each stud hole just a bit to not have binding.

Seems easier, but you won't have to buy new tools,,,,a plus and a minus!\

Peace,
Pat

  Thusly spake John Niolon

> maybe what you call it...  I need to 'dimple' a piece of metal just like a rim
> is dimpled where it fits over the wheel studs... for the same reason...   I'm
> making this (see links) and can't figure how to deform the metal into the
> right shape...   hyd press with a rounded rod ??  I've got a hyd press (bench
> top 20 ton) I use for bending metal...
>
> it will be 1/16 or 1/8" plate and I need to do this pretty accurately so it
> will fit the rim... I'm trying to copy a wheel lock gizmo I saw on the net...
>
> http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/hub_closeup1.jpg
> http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/back.jpg
>
>
> suggestions...
>
>
> Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
>
>
>
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
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From: ejrussell@mebtel.net
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, "John Niolon"
  <jniolon@att.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2013 08:39:48 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dimpling metal ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Quoting John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>:
> I need to 'dimple' a piece of metal it will be 1/16 or 1/8" plate

As mentioned you might be needing a dimpling die. But I'm not sure 
whether they'd work on 1/8" steel. I've used them on sheet metal (18 
ga) and it seems like 1/16" would be taxing their limit. 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  7 06:40:46 2013
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From: "Doug Armstrong" <darmstrong@nexicom.net>
To: "'John Niolon'" <jniolon@att.net>, "'Shop Talk List'"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <00DD56FCFC3D49D482F0CC2AED9791A5@john5043a2d406>
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2013 08:40:39 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6rT/HuIdCwoRntSfO670X4MEKE8QAdvkCQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dimpling metal ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You didn't say how big the holes will be.

Here is an example of a 1/2" hole flare.  They are often used to add
lightness and strength to roll cage gussets.

https://www.irvansmith.com/scart/hole-flare-p-394.html

Doug Armstrong


-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Niolon
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 6:24 PM
To: shop-talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] dimpling metal ??

maybe what you call it...  I need to 'dimple' a piece of metal just like a
rim
is dimpled where it fits over the wheel studs... for the same reason...
I'm
making this (see links) and can't figure how to deform the metal into the
right shape...   hyd press with a rounded rod ??  I've got a hyd press
(bench
top 20 ton) I use for bending metal...

it will be 1/16 or 1/8" plate and I need to do this pretty accurately so it
will fit the rim... I'm trying to copy a wheel lock gizmo I saw on the
net...

http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/hub_closeup1.jpg
http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/back.jpg


suggestions...


Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darmstrong@nexicom.net



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3222/6644 - Release Date: 09/06/13
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  7 07:05:38 2013
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Doug Armstrong" <darmstrong@nexicom.net>, "shop-talk"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <00DD56FCFC3D49D482F0CC2AED9791A5@john5043a2d406>
	<6842A019E52C43DBB5C97B3E45680CAA@CAD>
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2013 08:04:55 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] dimpling metal ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

thanks for the replies guys... I can see that I'm not set up for this type 
of work... tool and precision wise.  The company does sell the piece I 
pictured as a 'mount' for the lock when not in use...but seem to be out of 
stock a lot.  I think I'll just wait and buy that base and build the easy 
part...

and Doug... thanks for the link to that cool racing fab site..

thanks
John




> You didn't say how big the holes will be.
>
> Here is an example of a 1/2" hole flare.  They are often used to add
> lightness and strength to roll cage gussets.
>
> https://www.irvansmith.com/scart/hole-flare-p-394.html
>
> Doug Armstrong
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Niolon
> Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 6:24 PM
> To: shop-talk
> Subject: [Shop-talk] dimpling metal ??
>
> maybe what you call it...  I need to 'dimple' a piece of metal just like a
> rim
> is dimpled where it fits over the wheel studs... for the same reason...
> I'm
> making this (see links) and can't figure how to deform the metal into the
> right shape...   hyd press with a rounded rod ??  I've got a hyd press
> (bench
> top 20 ton) I use for bending metal...
>
> it will be 1/16 or 1/8" plate and I need to do this pretty accurately so 
> it
> will fit the rim... I'm trying to copy a wheel lock gizmo I saw on the
> net...
>
> http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/hub_closeup1.jpg
> http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/back.jpg
>
>
> suggestions...
>
>
> Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darmstrong@nexicom.net
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3222/6644 - Release Date: 09/06/13
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 13:08:58 2013
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From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
To: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 13:58:39 -0500
	FILETIME=[422A8340:01CEB0B3]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Water Pressure Relief Valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The major appliances in the rental property we bought last year were all on
their last legs, but we have been trying to stretch out replacing them as long
as possible to keep it from becoming a money pit.  The furnace and
refrigerator were the first to go.  Stove, dishwasher and air conditioner are
all close behind.  The water heater is from 2002 and, not knowing how well it
was treated in the past, is probably also at the end of its life expectancy.
The pressure release valve had a very slow drip when we took possession, so I
replaced it.  The new one still dripped and, thinking it was a defective
replacement, I replaced that too.  But the drip remained.  It probably drips
about a cup a day, but I have the valve running into a floor drain, so I have
never been too worried about that.  However, yesterday after both my wife and
I took relatively consecutive showers, the valve opened up completely and shot
water out.  I shut off the water supply and the tank and reset the valve and
all has been normal since.  I hadnt notice the setting before the valve
opened, but the water had been very hot and I suspect the renters had turned
it up pretty high.

Is the drip and one time opening up an indication of impending failure?  I am
not happy about spending the money right now, but it is certainly better to
replace it ahead of a catastrophic failure.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 16:53:40 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 13:36:01 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
References: <COL126-W39D7264FF597205088DE1CC3B0@phx.gbl>
Cc: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water Pressure Relief Valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim - It might be building up too much pressure.  Check the water 
temperature of the hot water.  It should be no more than 140.  120 is 
safer and recommended if you have kids.  A meat thermometer should be 
close enough and covers the right temperature range.

The two consecutive showers probably made the tank colder than normal.  
If it then heated fully without a hot faucet being opened, the pressure 
reached the point were the valve tripped like it should.

If you have a water pressure gauge, you could connect it to the laundry 
sink or washing machine hot water valve.  Check it after a shower or 
other big use of hot water then again after 30 minutes to see how much 
it went up.

I've seen cases were people also put in a small expansion tank near the 
heater.  Search "hot water expansion tank" for details.

Brian

On 9/13/2013 11:58 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
> The major appliances in the rental property we bought last year were all on
> their last legs, but we have been trying to stretch out replacing them as long
> as possible to keep it from becoming a money pit.  The furnace and
> refrigerator were the first to go.  Stove, dishwasher and air conditioner are
> all close behind.  The water heater is from 2002 and, not knowing how well it
> was treated in the past, is probably also at the end of its life expectancy.
> The pressure release valve had a very slow drip when we took possession, so I
> replaced it.  The new one still dripped and, thinking it was a defective
> replacement, I replaced that too.  But the drip remained.  It probably drips
> about a cup a day, but I have the valve running into a floor drain, so I have
> never been too worried about that.  However, yesterday after both my wife and
> I took relatively consecutive showers, the valve opened up completely and shot
> water out.  I shut off the water supply and the tank and reset the valve and
> all has been normal since.  I hadnt notice the setting before the valve
> opened, but the water had been very hot and I suspect the renters had turned
> it up pretty high.
>
> Is the drip and one time opening up an indication of impending failure?  I am
> not happy about spending the money right now, but it is certainly better to
> replace it ahead of a catastrophic failure.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 13 16:57:25 2013
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References: <COL126-W39D7264FF597205088DE1CC3B0@phx.gbl>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 16:39:43 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>, Shop-Talk
  <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water Pressure Relief Valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Is there possibly a check valve somewhere on the inlet line?  If so, if the
heater is heating a bunch of cold water and nobody is using water,
the water in the tank will expand and have no place to go except the check
valve.

Doug


On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 2:58 PM, Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com> wrote:

> The major appliances in the rental property we bought last year were all on
> their last legs, but we have been trying to stretch out replacing them as
> long
> as possible to keep it from becoming a money pit.  The furnace and
> refrigerator were the first to go.  Stove, dishwasher and air conditioner
> are
> all close behind.  The water heater is from 2002 and, not knowing how well
> it
> was treated in the past, is probably also at the end of its life
> expectancy.
> The pressure release valve had a very slow drip when we took possession,
> so I
> replaced it.  The new one still dripped and, thinking it was a defective
> replacement, I replaced that too.  But the drip remained.  It probably
> drips
> about a cup a day, but I have the valve running into a floor drain, so I
> have
> never been too worried about that.  However, yesterday after both my wife
> and
> I took relatively consecutive showers, the valve opened up completely and
> shot
> water out.  I shut off the water supply and the tank and reset the valve
> and
> all has been  normal  since.  I hadn t notice the setting before the valve
> opened, but the water had been very hot and I suspect the renters had
> turned
> it up pretty high.
>
> Is the drip and one time opening up an indication of impending failure?  I
> am
> not happy about spending the money right now, but it is certainly better to
> replace it ahead of a catastrophic failure.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 21:34:58 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Power-vented water heater kicks out.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

We have a newish gas water heater with a power vent.  We built the vent line out of Schedule 40 and minded the length and number of bends shown in the docs that came with it.

Worked fine for a couple of months, then started kicking off.  Gave a 6-2 code which implies venting was inadequate.  

Took it apart and found a diaphragm switch which measures vacuum on the upstream side of the vent blower.  Tech support says that the switch is supposed to trigger at 3/4-inch of water.  Switch tests fine by mouth test, but a human can pull several inches of water.

Measured vacuum at 7/8-inch of water.  This says the switch is bad, so I asked them to send me a new one.  Went to Door County and Road America for a week.  Came back to find a large parcel.  They sent me the whole darn blower assembly.  

I installed the whole assembly and the same thing still happens.  Get this:  It runs OK if all the house windows are closed and either the exhaust fan in the basement or the clothes dryer is running.

Can I get an auxiliary fan that goes in-line in a Schedule 40 vent line?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org
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	<52337731.8000400@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 21:18:15 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water Pressure Relief Valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If this is a city water system, wouldn't the expanding water simply back up
into the supply lines?

If it is a well system, shouldn't there already be an expansion tank that
can deal with it?
If there is an expansion tank, perhaps it has lost its air supply and is
completely full of
water? ( I'm not really familiar with the details of maintaining a well
system...)

Doug




On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 4:36 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Jim - It might be building up too much pressure.  Check the water
> temperature of the hot water.  It should be no more than 140.  120 is safer
> and recommended if you have kids.  A meat thermometer should be close
> enough and covers the right temperature range.
>
> The two consecutive showers probably made the tank colder than normal.  If
> it then heated fully without a hot faucet being opened, the pressure
> reached the point were the valve tripped like it should.
>
> If you have a water pressure gauge, you could connect it to the laundry
> sink or washing machine hot water valve.  Check it after a shower or other
> big use of hot water then again after 30 minutes to see how much it went up.
>
> I've seen cases were people also put in a small expansion tank near the
> heater.  Search "hot water expansion tank" for details.
>
> Brian
>
>
> On 9/13/2013 11:58 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
>
>> The major appliances in the rental property we bought last year were all
>> on
>> their last legs, but we have been trying to stretch out replacing them as
>> long
>> as possible to keep it from becoming a money pit.  The furnace and
>> refrigerator were the first to go.  Stove, dishwasher and air conditioner
>> are
>> all close behind.  The water heater is from 2002 and, not knowing how
>> well it
>> was treated in the past, is probably also at the end of its life
>> expectancy.
>> The pressure release valve had a very slow drip when we took possession,
>> so I
>> replaced it.  The new one still dripped and, thinking it was a defective
>> replacement, I replaced that too.  But the drip remained.  It probably
>> drips
>> about a cup a day, but I have the valve running into a floor drain, so I
>> have
>> never been too worried about that.  However, yesterday after both my wife
>> and
>> I took relatively consecutive showers, the valve opened up completely and
>> shot
>> water out.  I shut off the water supply and the tank and reset the valve
>> and
>> all has been  normal  since.  I hadn t notice the setting before the valve
>> opened, but the water had been very hot and I suspect the renters had
>> turned
>> it up pretty high.
>>
>> Is the drip and one time opening up an indication of impending failure?
>>  I am
>> not happy about spending the money right now, but it is certainly better
>> to
>> replace it ahead of a catastrophic failure.
>> ______________________________**_________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/shop-talk/bk13@**earthlink.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net>
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From: Arvid Jedlicka <arvidj@visi.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 22:13:58 -0500
To: "pethier@comcast.net" <pethier@comcast.net>
Cc: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power-vented water heater kicks out.
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Phil,

Doesn't that imply that it runs better when the gas is going the wrong way in
the vent? By that I mean that if you suck enough air out of the house that air
comes in the vent ... or at least does not go out as fast as it should ...
then the pressure in the vent is low enough to keep it on.

Or maybe I do not understand what is going on.

Arvid

On Sep 13, 2013, at 4:34 PM, pethier@comcast.net wrote:

> We have a newish gas water heater with a power vent.  We built the vent line
out of Schedule 40 and minded the length and number of bends shown in the docs
that came with it.
>
> Worked fine for a couple of months, then started kicking off.  Gave a 6-2
code which implies venting was inadequate.
>
> Took it apart and found a diaphragm switch which measures vacuum on the
upstream side of the vent blower.  Tech support says that the switch is
supposed to trigger at 3/4-inch of water.  Switch tests fine by mouth test,
but a human can pull several inches of water.
>
> Measured vacuum at 7/8-inch of water.  This says the switch is bad, so I
asked them to send me a new one.  Went to Door County and Road America for a
week.  Came back to find a large parcel.  They sent me the whole darn blower
assembly.
>
> I installed the whole assembly and the same thing still happens.  Get this:
It runs OK if all the house windows are closed and either the exhaust fan in
the basement or the clothes dryer is running.
>
> Can I get an auxiliary fan that goes in-line in a Schedule 40 vent line?
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj@visi.com
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Cc: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power-vented water heater kicks out.
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----- Original Message -----
> From: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>
> To: pethier@comcast.net
> Cc: "shop talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 10:13:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Power-vented water heater kicks out.
> Phil,
>
> Doesn't that imply that it runs better when the gas is going the wrong
> way in the vent? By that I mean that if you suck enough air out of the
> house that air comes in the vent ... or at least does not go out as
> fast as it should ... then the pressure in the vent is low enough to
> keep it on.
>
> Or maybe I do not understand what is going on.
>
> Arvid

You do understand what is going on, and it does not make sense.

Pulling a (fantastically-slight) vacuum on the "flame" side of the fan is
supposed to indicate to the sensor that the fan is running. B If the fan
fails, there is no vacuum, the sensor thinks the fan has failed or a bird is
stuck in the pipe and we are all going to die of CO poisoning. B So the
micro-switch on the diaphragm opens and the control system shuts off the power
to the fan circuit and kills the gas flame.

Even though I measured the vacuum at 7/8 inches, which is supposed to be
enough to keep things humming, the old switch was open.

You can't just jumper over the switch. B The control system is too smart for
that. B If the thermostat calls for flame, the control system checks the
diaphragm switch first. B If the switch is closed, the control refuses to
start the flame and flashes a code that tells you the switch is shorted out.
B 
It seemed to work better when the house was closed up and there was an exhaust
fan on.  Counterintuitive, huh?

OK, so with the spec the tech guy gave me on the phone, the switch was bad.
Trouble is, they sent the whole thing.  Sigh.

My wife just drew a bath, and the silly thing was just working WITH THE
WINDOWS OPEN, so I'm going down to see how it's doing.


=====

I'm back.

It's heating, and showing the "heartbeat" (their word) code for normal
heating.  I hope this means that diaphram was stiff from being new and is OK
now.  Knocking furiously on wood.



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org
_______________________________________________

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Jim Stone'" <jandkstone99@msn.com>, "'shop talk'"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 23:24:28 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water Pressure Relief Valve
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>  hadnt notice the setting
> before the valve
> opened, but the water had been very hot and I suspect the
> renters had turned
> it up pretty high.

I bet that's the problem then.  That valve opens for either temperature or
pressure; my guess is that they had the thermostat so
high that the valve was on the verge of blowing open.

Randall
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2013 10:32:47 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water Pressure Relief Valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

neglected to cc the list...


On Sat, Sep 14, 2013 at 10:10 AM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:

>
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 8:18 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:
>
>> If this is a city water system, wouldn't the expanding water simply back
>> up
>> into the supply lines?
>>
>>
> Code -- and good sanitation -- should require an anti-backflow valve on
> the input.  Water heaters run at less than 140 are potential breeding
> grounds for all sorts of the things you do not want in your water, like
> legonella.  It's becoming common for code to require storage water heaters
> to have a temperature of 140F or higher, and use tempering valves to keep
> faucets from scalding people.  (If you can, you do want to feed your
> dishwasher and washing machine with hot hot water.)
>
>
>
>> If it is a well system, shouldn't there already be an expansion tank that
>> can deal with it?
>> If there is an expansion tank, perhaps it has lost its air supply and is
>> completely full of
>> water? ( I'm not really familiar with the details of maintaining a well
>> system...)
>>
>>
> There should be some soft of expansion system, yes.  House may be old
> enough that the expansion system was the city water supply --no backflow
> preventor, and one has been installed.  It might also be that there's an
> anti-hammer riser that was sized (usually too small...) to do it, and it's
> full of water, not air.
>
>
>
-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 16 20:14:37 2013
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From: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2013 20:01:59 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water Pressure Relief Valve
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Thanks, guys.  Sorry for the delay.  I had to get a meat thermometer.  :)

The water was only at about 110 degrees after I had turned it down post
pressure release.  I have turned it up to two notches shy of the maximum and
it is now at 120, which sounds like the minimum, especially since the fixtures
are not temperature limiting.  In answer to other questions that were asked,
it is city water and there is an expansion tank installed.  The tank looks
relatively new and it is one that is still available
(http://www.homedepot.com/p/Therm-X-Trol-ST-12-Expansion-Tank-141N43/20429637
2#.UjeZDGR4ars) but haven't had it checked since we bought the house, so I
have no idea if it properly functioning or how to test it.

I guess the fact that the valve did 'blow' tells me that it isn't working.
Correct?  I know nothing about these and the installation instructions
available on the HD site really don't tell me much.  Is this something I can
test myself?

Thanks again.

Jim


On Sep 14, 2013, at 11:32 AM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:

> neglected to cc the list...
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 14, 2013 at 10:10 AM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 8:18 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:
>>
>>> If this is a city water system, wouldn't the expanding water simply back
>>> up
>>> into the supply lines?
>>>
>>>
>> Code -- and good sanitation -- should require an anti-backflow valve on
>> the input.  Water heaters run at less than 140 are potential breeding
>> grounds for all sorts of the things you do not want in your water, like
>> legonella.  It's becoming common for code to require storage water heaters
>> to have a temperature of 140F or higher, and use tempering valves to keep
>> faucets from scalding people.  (If you can, you do want to feed your
>> dishwasher and washing machine with hot hot water.)
>>
>>
>>
>>> If it is a well system, shouldn't there already be an expansion tank that
>>> can deal with it?
>>> If there is an expansion tank, perhaps it has lost its air supply and is
>>> completely full of
>>> water? ( I'm not really familiar with the details of maintaining a well
>>> system...)
>>>
>>>
>> There should be some soft of expansion system, yes.  House may be old
>> enough that the expansion system was the city water supply --no backflow
>> preventor, and one has been installed.  It might also be that there's an
>> anti-hammer riser that was sized (usually too small...) to do it, and it's
>> full of water, not air.
>>
>>
>>
> --
> David Scheidt
> dmscheidt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99@msn.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 18 06:07:17 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 07:46:22 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/18/2013 07:46:25, Serialize complete at
	09/18/2013 07:46:25
Subject: [Shop-talk] Surveillance camera systems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone know of a software app or website (free or low cost) that 
helps design the layout for security cameras?

What I am looking for is a way to list where the cameras are located, what 
I want them to cover, and the app tell me what type of camera I need (lens 
type and degree of coverage, etc.)

This is a pretty straight forward install, but I wanted to find the best 
cameras to use and the best places to put them.

SHOP CONTENT-  Once I install the new system in the house, the old system 
is going into the shop!  8>)

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 18 07:08:19 2013
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 08:06:50 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF137DFA1B.AC1741BD-ON85257BEA.0040A110-85257BEA.0042340E@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Surveillance camera systems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Check out www.supercircuits.com. They have some calculators under 
resources, then video security tools.

Their equipment is good also. I have 5 analog systems installed for 
clients. Only problem I've had is that after several years the hard 
drives start to fail, but the drives have had 5 year warranties from the 
drive manufacturer, so I get free replacements.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake eric

> Does anyone know of a software app or website (free or low cost) that
> helps design the layout for security cameras?
>
> What I am looking for is a way to list where the cameras are located, what
> I want them to cover, and the app tell me what type of camera I need (lens
> type and degree of coverage, etc.)
>
> This is a pretty straight forward install, but I wanted to find the best
> cameras to use and the best places to put them.
>
> SHOP CONTENT-  Once I install the new system in the house, the old system
> is going into the shop!  8>)
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pat@hornesystemstx.com
>
>
>
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text	5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 20 11:25:10 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 11:57:28 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/20/2013 11:57:40, Serialize complete at
	09/20/2013 11:57:40
Subject: [Shop-talk] Installing multiple 240 outlets.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, here is my situation..

I need to install 240v lines for 2 devices across the shop.  Since this is 
over 50' and these are 40 amp circuits, I was wondering if there was a way 
that I could save on the wire costs.

The 2 devices are an outlet for welder/plasma cutter.  It will be RARELY 
used (only if I need to weld or cut something outside the shop.)
The other device is a electric car charger.  It's a 240v 20 amp circuit (I 
didn't think that the amps were correct, but it is.)  This will be used 
nightly.
They will never be used at the same time.

Here is what I was thinking of doing...

Just running a 240/40 amp outlet to the point I need it, then put a plug 
on the car charger and leave it plugged in.  Just unplug it when I need to 
use the welder.

But, I was wondering if there was a way to hardwire the charger and have 
the plug open normally.  Is there any safety concern if I did this?


BTW, for those that may be looking for an electric car, I did major 
amounts of research and extended test drives (with metrics) on three of 
them (Smartcar electric, Leaf, Volt.).  I went with the Chevy Volt because 
it was best for my needs (but might not be best for yours).  If anyone is 
considering one of these cars, let me know and I can send you my findings. 
 

If you are spending more than $200 a month of fuel, and you work less than 
30 miles away from your home, these could SAVE you money each month!

I have no interest  in any of them, nor do I work for any of these firms. 
I'm just pretty good at math and it made sense to me!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 20 14:13:58 2013
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 14:07:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OFD72D4917.EAFCD824-ON85257BEC.0058367B-85257BEC.0059436C@mail.megageek.com>
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Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing multiple 240 outlets.
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On Fri, 20 Sep 2013, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Just running a 240/40 amp outlet to the point I need it, then put a plug
> on the car charger and leave it plugged in.  Just unplug it when I need to
> use the welder.
>
> But, I was wondering if there was a way to hardwire the charger and have
> the plug open normally.  Is there any safety concern if I did this?

    I would be willing to bet that the charger has an owner's manual of 
some sort that tells you explicitly how you may and may not wire it.  The 
safety concern would be, obviously, that if you ( or someone less careful 
) try to pull more than 20a from the plug while the charger is 
operating, you will overload the circuit.  That will probably just trip 
the breaker, but it isn't 'safe'.  Plus the possiblity of the charger 
malfunctioning, and being hardwired without a disconnect switch (other 
than the breaker).

    The cheapest proper way to do it would be your initial description, one 
run, one 40a receptacle, and matching plugs on each device, plus the minor 
inconvenience of unplugging the charger.

> BTW, for those that may be looking for an electric car, I did major
> amounts of research and extended test drives (with metrics) on three of
> them (Smartcar electric, Leaf, Volt.).  I went with the Chevy Volt because
> it was best for my needs (but might not be best for yours).  If anyone is
> considering one of these cars, let me know and I can send you my findings.

    No Ford Focus on your list?

    I get a kick out of my colleague who bought an electric motorcycle 
recently ( Brammo ).  For what he spent, he could've bought a cheap Ducati,
invested the difference in a nice dividend-paying fund, and used the 
proceeds to buy himself gas, and lunch everyday.  And he wouldn't need to 
take the bike to Walgreens for a quick charge on lunch.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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References: <OFD72D4917.EAFCD824-ON85257BEC.0058367B-85257BEC.0059436C@mail.megageek.com>
From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 17:00:00 -0400
To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net" <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing multiple 240 outlets.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I faced a similar situation when I wired my garage.  I ended up running a
circuit to my compressor, which is hard-wired,and then putting a 220v outlet
next to the compressor on the same circuit for occasional use.  I just have to
make sure that the compressor is turned off if I'm going to plug something in
to that outlet.

I don't see why this is a safety concern.  I have many outlets wired to each
15 or 20A circuit in my house.  I can plug a 12A load into any if them, but I
can't run two 12A loads off of one.  It's the same in the garage but with
another hot leg.

-Paul

> On Sep 20, 2013, at 11:57 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
> OK, here is my situation..
>
> I need to install 240v lines for 2 devices across the shop.  Since this is
> over 50' and these are 40 amp circuits, I was wondering if there was a way
> that I could save on the wire costs.
>
> The 2 devices are an outlet for welder/plasma cutter.  It will be RARELY
> used (only if I need to weld or cut something outside the shop.)
> The other device is a electric car charger.  It's a 240v 20 amp circuit (I
> didn't think that the amps were correct, but it is.)  This will be used
> nightly.
> They will never be used at the same time.
>
> Here is what I was thinking of doing...
>
> Just running a 240/40 amp outlet to the point I need it, then put a plug
> on the car charger and leave it plugged in.  Just unplug it when I need to
> use the welder.
>
> But, I was wondering if there was a way to hardwire the charger and have
> the plug open normally.  Is there any safety concern if I did this?
>
>
> BTW, for those that may be looking for an electric car, I did major
> amounts of research and extended test drives (with metrics) on three of
> them (Smartcar electric, Leaf, Volt.).  I went with the Chevy Volt because
> it was best for my needs (but might not be best for yours).  If anyone is
> considering one of these cars, let me know and I can send you my findings.
>
>
> If you are spending more than $200 a month of fuel, and you work less than
> 30 miles away from your home, these could SAVE you money each month!
>
> I have no interest  in any of them, nor do I work for any of these firms.
> I'm just pretty good at math and it made sense to me!
>
> Eric P
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 21 12:01:25 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2013 09:39:07 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/21/2013 09:39:18, Serialize complete at
	09/21/2013 09:39:18
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Installing multiple 240 outlets.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

David asks...
>No Ford Focus on your list?

It was on the list, but after seeing the same results with the other two 
all electric cars, I felt there was no reason to waste my time.  It was 
listed at about the same ranges, etc.

The problem is my range.  Most electric cars work best if your daily 
commute is either 30 miles or less, or less than 60 miles, but you can 
charge at work.

My need is 34 miles one way, and no ability to charge at work (yet.)

That is why I went with the volt.  Once the battery is gone, you got 
unlimited fuel.

With the Volt, I can now pressure my employer to get the charging station, 
because I already have a car to use on it, but I can use the gas until 
they do.

The only reason I did this was that the numbers worked or me (I need an 
SUV that gets poor milage frequently but not as a daily commuter), so my 
fuel costs were $460 a month at $3.50 a gallon.

I have 2 spreadsheets and (for those into  higher level analysis) a 
"analysis of competing hypothesis" matrix that all point to the Volt as 
the answer.*

So the new vehicle, with all the costs (insurance, etc) was less than I 
was currently spending, and I gain a new car in the process and save the 
milage of my SUV which I love and can keep much longer now.

Oh, I have solar at my house, so that makes a recharge 'free' for me as 
well.

 I have a feeling that in 3 to 5 years, electric cars will be more of the 
'norm' and not fringe.

*=(I have no problem sharing these with anyone interested.)

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 22 15:06:53 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2013 16:26:33 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/22/2013 16:26:33, Serialize complete at
	09/22/2013 16:26:33
Subject: [Shop-talk] Data for Volt purchase
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A bunch of people contacted me for the data on why I bought the Volt.

So, instead of sending out my short-handed spreadsheets, I did what any 
geek would do...

I threw together a quick webpage.

Here is the link...

http://www.megageek.com/elecar/index.htm 

Now, some of the values and such were messed up a little bit, but you get 
the idea. (I'm not sure what happened when I pasted them in the webpage, 
and I'm on my way to a training course this week. I can fix it later.)

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Enoy!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 24 14:41:38 2013
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Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 13:48:38 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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	Firefox/22.0 SeaMonkey/2.19
To: Spridget list <spridgets@autox.team.net>,  shop-talk List
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Mystery tool
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

To see the tool:


http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=165


mjb.

ps:  Just got the comcast network up and running, not sure how soon Team.Net
will be migrated over.
_______________________________________________

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	<1380055787.66831.YahooMailNeo@web181105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 17:53:09 -0400
From: Brian Morse <owensdad74@gmail.com>
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
Cc: Spridget list <spridgets@autox.team.net>,
	shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Spridgets] Mystery tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I was thinking that larger diameter stainless deal was some kind of a
float, like maybe a blinker fluid hydrometer? ;)


On Tue, Sep 24, 2013 at 4:49 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>wrote:

> OK, I have seen the tool.  I think is is to adjust the muffler bearing. ;^)
> Mike MacLean
> 60 Sprite
> 56 BN2
>
>
>
>
>
> >________________________________
> > From:
> Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
> >To: Spridget list
> <spridgets@autox.team.net>; shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> >Sent:
> Tuesday, September 24, 2013 12:48 PM
> >Subject: [Spridgets] Mystery tool
> >
> >
> >To see the tool:
> >
> >
> >http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=165
> >
> >
> >mjb.
> >
> >ps:  Just got the comcast network up and running, not sure how soon
> Team.Net
> >will be migrated over.
> >------------------------
> >
> >spridgets@autox.team.net
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> >
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/rrengineer.mike@att.net
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/owensdad74@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 24 19:14:32 2013
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From: "Jim F" <jimndi@frontiernet.net>
To: "Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, "Mark J Bradakis"
	<mark@bradakis.com>, "Spridget list" <spridgets@autox.team.net>,
	"shop-talk List" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5241EC96.6090707@bradakis.com>
	<1380055787.66831.YahooMailNeo@web181105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 18:53:57 -0400
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Spridgets] Mystery tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Definitely for adjusting the Spridget canootin valve.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Michael MacLean
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 4:49 PM
To: Mark J Bradakis ; Spridget list ; shop-talk List
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Mystery tool

OK, I have seen the tool.  I think is is to adjust the muffler bearing. ;^)
Mike MacLean
60 Sprite
56 BN2





>________________________________
> From:
Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
>To: Spridget list
<spridgets@autox.team.net>; shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
>Sent:
Tuesday, September 24, 2013 12:48 PM
>Subject: [Spridgets] Mystery tool
>
>
>To see the tool:
>
>
>http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=165
>
>
>mjb.
>
>ps:  Just got the comcast network up and running, not sure how soon
Team.Net
>will be migrated over.
>------------------------
>
>spridgets@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/rrengineer.mike@att.net
------------------------

spridgets@autox.team.net


Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/jimndi@frontiernet.net


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4117 / Virus Database: 3604/1 - Release Date: 09/04/13
Internal Virus Database is out of date. 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 24 22:32:45 2013
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'Spridget list'" <spridgets@autox.team.net>, "'shop-talk List'"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5241EC96.6090707@bradakis.com><1380055787.66831.YahooMailNeo@web181105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BE0AF7AE097245A0B7C4FC349E1910EC@MAIN>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 21:29:31 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac65jIDuVVclyfHLSz2VEs/YVyFxgQAGrSkQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Spridgets] Mystery tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Simple, it's not an automotive tool, it's for rolling out bread stick dough.

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim F
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 3:54 PM
To: Michael MacLean; Mark J Bradakis; Spridget list; shop-talk List
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] [Spridgets] Mystery tool

Definitely for adjusting the Spridget canootin valve.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Michael MacLean
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 4:49 PM
To: Mark J Bradakis ; Spridget list ; shop-talk List
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Mystery tool

OK, I have seen the tool.  I think is is to adjust the muffler bearing. ;^)
Mike MacLean
60 Sprite
56 BN2





>________________________________
> From:
Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
>To: Spridget list
<spridgets@autox.team.net>; shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
>Sent:
Tuesday, September 24, 2013 12:48 PM
>Subject: [Spridgets] Mystery tool
>
>
>To see the tool:
>
>
>http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=165
>
>
>mjb.
>
>ps:  Just got the comcast network up and running, not sure how soon
Team.Net
>will be migrated over.
>------------------------
>
>spridgets@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/rrengineer.mike@att.net
------------------------

spridgets@autox.team.net


Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/jimndi@frontiernet.net


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4117 / Virus Database: 3604/1 - Release Date: 09/04/13
Internal Virus Database is out of date. 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 25 11:19:42 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: "ElanS4" <ElanS4@cox.net>
To: "'shop-talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <V8hL1m00Y0koGQ6018hMCt>
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 13:14:44 -0400
Thread-Index: AQIqCIXWBHLRy6ODnGwSceLHdp9GwZkgE7YQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mystery tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark J Bradakis wrote about a mystery tool:
> 
> To see the tool:
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=165

Does the thick metal "lump" ion the middle of the shaft come off either end
of the shaft?  It looks like some kind of slide hammer, but I don't see any
stop on either end.

Tim Mullen
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 10:39:12 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 12:17:58 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/30/2013 12:18:04, Serialize complete at
	09/30/2013 12:18:04
Subject: [Shop-talk] Engine damage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello all, theoretical question about engines. 

My co-workers and I were talking about trying to identify if an engine was 
tampered with after it was destroyed. (I work in law enforcement.)

We were wondering, would you be able to tell if someone put sugar in a gas 
tank and it lunched the engine?  Mostly on a small engine verses a car. 
(I'm assuming that a fuel filter would catch any additives in a car.)

If so, is there something else to put in gas that would kill it?  Or 
something else that can be done that was undetectable?

I knew this would be the place for the definitive answer!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 11:26:29 2013
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References: <OF5BB363C2.33084673-ON85257BF6.0058EAC4-85257BF6.005B185F@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 12:25:10 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Engine damage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm sure the collective will suggest several methods of destructive
ways to damage an engine: abrasives, acids, adhesives, etc., but for a
positive lock on the damage there is oil analysis available to anyone:

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

Tony in Texas


On 30 September 2013 11:17, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Hello all, theoretical question about engines.
>
> My co-workers and I were talking about trying to identify if an engine was
> tampered with after it was destroyed. (I work in law enforcement.)
>
> We were wondering, would you be able to tell if someone put sugar in a gas
> tank and it lunched the engine?  Mostly on a small engine verses a car.
> (I'm assuming that a fuel filter would catch any additives in a car.)
>
> If so, is there something else to put in gas that would kill it?  Or
> something else that can be done that was undetectable?
>
> I knew this would be the place for the definitive answer!
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eltonclark@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 11:40:12 2013
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References: <OF5BB363C2.33084673-ON85257BF6.0058EAC4-85257BF6.005B185F@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 13:38:50 -0400
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Engine damage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, first I'd clear up the popular myth that sugar in the gas will kill
your car very quickly.  Snopes and Click and Clack have both dealt with
this and both say the sugar won't do any immediate damage to your car.
Sugar doesn't dissolve in water and the worst problem might be a plugged
filter, but even that's unlikely.  Most likely its just going to sit in the
bottom of the tank.

So, if you're looking at other things that will quickly kill an engine if
added to the fuel, my first thought would be diesel fuel or water.  I'd say
both are reasonably detectable though and generally reversible.  Beyond
those I'm not sure.  If you put something that lowered the Octane
significantly you could damage the engine from excessive knock.  You could
plug the filter, carb/injectors with some type of contaminant, maybe epoxy
paint or something that thickens/hardens.

Lots of thiings could be put in the oil, including gasoline, water, etc.,
that would cause slow damage to the engine.  Excessive amounts of ether
starting fluid in the intake while its running will kill it pretty quick.
As will dribbling lots of water in the intake.  Depending on how much time
has elapased these may not be detectable.

Ben....

On Mon, Sep 30, 2013 at 12:17 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Hello all, theoretical question about engines.
>
> My co-workers and I were talking about trying to identify if an engine was
> tampered with after it was destroyed. (I work in law enforcement.)
>
> We were wondering, would you be able to tell if someone put sugar in a gas
> tank and it lunched the engine?  Mostly on a small engine verses a car.
> (I'm assuming that a fuel filter would catch any additives in a car.)
>
> If so, is there something else to put in gas that would kill it?  Or
> something else that can be done that was undetectable?
>
> I knew this would be the place for the definitive answer!
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 11:40:41 2013
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Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 13:38:05 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Engine damage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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That whole sugar in the gas tank thing is pretty much just an urban 
legend.  Check out snopes on 
this:  http://www.snopes.com/autos/grace/sugar.asp.  This is how they 
did it for the "cash for clunkers" 
program:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0IcIxhd8ks.  But that 
wasn't added to the gas.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net



At 12:17 PM 9/30/2013, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>Hello all, theoretical question about engines.
>
>My co-workers and I were talking about trying to identify if an engine was
>tampered with after it was destroyed. (I work in law enforcement.)
>
>We were wondering, would you be able to tell if someone put sugar in a gas
>tank and it lunched the engine?  Mostly on a small engine verses a car.
>(I'm assuming that a fuel filter would catch any additives in a car.)
>
>If so, is there something else to put in gas that would kill it?  Or
>something else that can be done that was undetectable?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 13:16:48 2013
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From: "Bob Kegel" <bobkegel@comcast.net>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>, <eric@megageek.com>
References: <OF5BB363C2.33084673-ON85257BF6.0058EAC4-85257BF6.005B185F@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 12:15:26 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Engine damage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Many years ago I read Stanley Lovell's book, "Of Spies and Stratagems", 
about his experiences as head of the OSS' research and development lab. 
They were tasked with finding a way to disable Axis vehicles, suitable for 
use by a spy or resistance members. The lab was unable to develop anything 
that could be added to fuel. What they eventually came up with was an 
abrasive that would trash an engine's bearings when added to the oil. It was 
delivered in a capsule, dropped through the oil filler.

Bob k 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 13:42:13 2013
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Cc: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 11:31:37 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6+A/l5ZuzfzYcIR5CSO6R0TXBR/AABvaZQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Engine damage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> Sugar doesn't dissolve in water 

Presumably you meant gasoline.  I wonder, though, what would happen with E10?  Sugar will definitely dissolve in ethanol/water
mixtures.

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 19:43:36 2013
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From: Fred Katz <roadster@astound.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 18:42:08 -0700
To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net" <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Engine damage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Bleach added to a gas tank will destroy an engine.

Fred - SSF, CA

On Sep 30, 2013, at 9:17 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:

> Hello all, theoretical question about engines. 
> 
> My co-workers and I were talking about trying to identify if an engine was 
> tampered with after it was destroyed. (I work in law enforcement.)
> 
> We were wondering, would you be able to tell if someone put sugar in a gas 
> tank and it lunched the engine?  Mostly on a small engine verses a car. 
> (I'm assuming that a fuel filter would catch any additives in a car.)
> 
> If so, is there something else to put in gas that would kill it?  Or 
> something else that can be done that was undetectable?
> 
> I knew this would be the place for the definitive answer!
> 
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
> Waldo Emerson 
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 30 19:52:25 2013
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From: Fred Katz <roadster@astound.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 18:51:06 -0700
To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net" <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Engine damage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I just read up on why bleach destroys an engine. The chlorine reacts
chemically with gasoline and causes extreme rusting (oxidation). A high volume
of rust sediment will be found in the engine. Additionally, the bleach
corrodes all metal, plastic and rubber it comes into contact with. Also breaks
free sediment in gas tanks and fuel lines, sending it to the engine when
running.

Fred -

On Sep 30, 2013, at 9:17 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:

> Hello all, theoretical question about engines.
>
> My co-workers and I were talking about trying to identify if an engine was
> tampered with after it was destroyed. (I work in law enforcement.)
>
> We were wondering, would you be able to tell if someone put sugar in a gas
> tank and it lunched the engine?  Mostly on a small engine verses a car.
> (I'm assuming that a fuel filter would catch any additives in a car.)
>
> If so, is there something else to put in gas that would kill it?  Or
> something else that can be done that was undetectable?
>
> I knew this would be the place for the definitive answer!
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5241EC96.6090707@bradakis.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 19:25:00 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Mystery tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Did I miss the answer to this?  (It wouldn't be the first time I didn't know 
what was going on.)  If still unknown, it looks like an inspection tool for 
measuring something, I don't know what.

Mike
==========================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>
To: "Spridget list" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "shop-talk List" 
<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 12:48 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Mystery tool


> To see the tool:
>
>
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=165
>
>
> mjb.
>
> ps:  Just got the comcast network up and running, not sure how soon 
> Team.Net
> will be migrated over.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722@comcast.net
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