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From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 13:02:26 -0600
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

So, the garage had part of the floor covered with vinyl tile.

No sweat. Bought a floor scraper from Harbor Freight. Nice tool. Very
sharp, thick blade on the end of a pole. Good for smooth concrete subfloors.

Now I'm moving to the bathroom, which isn't over a slab--it's hung off the
side of the building over a crawlspace. Which means a wood subfloor.

The scraper is too sharp. The vinyl tile is at least two layers deep (they
just tiled over the old tile) and it flexes. So running the scraper over
it, it either bites into the tile and binds up (it can't bear against the
rigid concrete subfloor), or it bites into the wood floor itself.

I need...a dull(er) scraper. Maybe. Something I can lever under the tile
that won't bite into the wood or tile. Or do I just need something else?
Or...how can I remove vinyl tile from a wood subfloor? The tile is so old
that it's disintegrating and I can't pull it up a tile at a time. But it's
also too crumble-y to try to get a piece at a time--it's take months just
to do the 10-by-6 area.

Looking for advice--the garage mahal has a bathroom, and it's going to be
awesome. As soon as I get this vinyl tile up.

Scott
_______________________________________________

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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 11:16:38 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
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> I need...a dull(er) scraper. Maybe. Something I can lever under the tile
> that won't bite into the wood or tile. Or do I just need something else?
> Or...how can I remove vinyl tile from a wood subfloor? The tile is so old
> that it's disintegrating and I can't pull it up a tile at a time. But it's
> also too crumble-y to try to get a piece at a time--it's take months just
> to do the 10-by-6 area.

What kind of adhesive?  Would a heat gun soften everything enough to 
loosen it?

John.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  3 12:21:46 2015
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 2015 11:22:13 -0800
References: <CAK73_u5dOsBC6QWHYQ698vGFuKiRRWV01PTzbygOh-XviwOSig@mail.gmail.com>
To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I saw once about using dry ice to remove tiles.

http://www.acmedryice.com/remove_floor_tiles_dry_ice.html

-Darrell

> On Nov 3, 2015, at 11:02 AM, Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
> So, the garage had part of the floor covered with vinyl tile.
>
> No sweat. Bought a floor scraper from Harbor Freight. Nice tool. Very
> sharp, thick blade on the end of a pole. Good for smooth concrete
subfloors.
>
> Now I'm moving to the bathroom, which isn't over a slab--it's hung off the
> side of the building over a crawlspace. Which means a wood subfloor.
>
> The scraper is too sharp. The vinyl tile is at least two layers deep (they
> just tiled over the old tile) and it flexes. So running the scraper over
> it, it either bites into the tile and binds up (it can't bear against the
> rigid concrete subfloor), or it bites into the wood floor itself.
>
> I need...a dull(er) scraper. Maybe. Something I can lever under the tile
> that won't bite into the wood or tile. Or do I just need something else?
> Or...how can I remove vinyl tile from a wood subfloor? The tile is so old
> that it's disintegrating and I can't pull it up a tile at a time. But it's
> also too crumble-y to try to get a piece at a time--it's take months just
> to do the 10-by-6 area.
>
> Looking for advice--the garage mahal has a bathroom, and it's going to be
> awesome. As soon as I get this vinyl tile up.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  3 12:53:09 2015
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 11:53:09 -0800
Thread-Index: AdEWayWvqxkUUtswQZaNs+jZBJV3BwABWw+g
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
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> I need...a dull(er) scraper. Maybe. Something I can lever 
> under the tile
> that won't bite into the wood or tile. Or do I just need 
> something else?

What about filing a taper on the end of the scraper, making it more like a wood chisel?  With some practice, maybe you could hit the
edge of the tile at just the right angle, so the sharp edge would get under the edge of the tile, then the natural lever action as
the scraper moves would lever the tile away from the wood.  You might also want to round or blunt the corners to make them less apt
to dig in.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <CAK73_u5dOsBC6QWHYQ698vGFuKiRRWV01PTzbygOh-XviwOSig@mail.gmail.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
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On Nov 3, 2015, at 2:02 PM, Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> wrote:

> Now I'm moving to the bathroom, which isn't over a slab--it's hung off the
> side of the building over a crawlspace. Which means a wood subfloor.

When I come across this I just pull up the subfloor. MUCH easier than dealing
with separating the tile. Plywood is cheap, relatively speaking.

jim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 2015 15:22:09 -0500
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <d79V1r01a0NyJgq0179XCh>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At 02:02 PM 11/3/2015, you wrote:

 >Now I'm moving to the bathroom, which isn't over a slab--it's hung off the
 >side of the building over a crawlspace. Which means a wood subfloor.

 >The scraper is too sharp. The vinyl tile is at least two layers deep (they
 >just tiled over the old tile) and it flexes. So running the scraper over
 >it, it either bites into the tile and binds up (it can't bear against the
 >rigid concrete subfloor), or it bites into the wood floor itself.

I just pulled the vinyl tiles on my bathroom floor.   I tried using a 
heavy duty scrapper like you are talking about to no avail.  I ended 
up using a "multi tool" from
Harbor freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-62279.html


using a blade like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-high-carbon-steel-multi-tool-rigid-scraper-blade-61828.html


Made short work of the job.

John


John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  3 14:01:00 2015
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 15:01:45 -0600
References: <d79V1r01a0NyJgq0179XCh>
 <6.2.5.6.1.20151103151734.04db4ec0@cox.net>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

"The tile is so old that it's disintegrating..."

Old floor tile sometimes contained asbestos.  If it is more than around 50
years old (I'm just guessing on that date; a little Googling would give you
the correct one) the right thing to do would be to have it tested and hire
professionals if necessary.  I may get slammed for saying this, but short of
hiring a professional, you might want to do something to keep dust down while
removing it. Maybe wet the surface while you are working?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 3, 2015, at 2:22 PM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:
>
> At 02:02 PM 11/3/2015, you wrote:
>
>> Now I'm moving to the bathroom, which isn't over a slab--it's hung off the
>> side of the building over a crawlspace. Which means a wood subfloor.
>
>> The scraper is too sharp. The vinyl tile is at least two layers deep (they
>> just tiled over the old tile) and it flexes. So running the scraper over
>> it, it either bites into the tile and binds up (it can't bear against the
>> rigid concrete subfloor), or it bites into the wood floor itself.
>
> I just pulled the vinyl tiles on my bathroom floor.   I tried using a
> heavy duty scrapper like you are talking about to no avail.  I ended
> up using a "multi tool" from
> Harbor freight:
>
>
http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-62279.html
>
>
> using a blade like this:
>
>
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-high-carbon-steel-multi-tool-rigid-scraper-
blade-61828.html
>
>
> Made short work of the job.
>
> John
>
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                        65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>
> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
>      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
>      In God We Trust
>      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
>                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  3 14:29:07 2015
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From: "Pat Horne" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
To: "'Scott Hall'" <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>, <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CAK73_u5dOsBC6QWHYQ698vGFuKiRRWV01PTzbygOh-XviwOSig@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 15:29:51 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
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As was mentioned, beware of asbestos tile. The easiest way to identify it is
that asbestos tile us usually 8" or 9" size, where vinyl is usually 12"
tile.

Peace,
Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott
Hall
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 1:02 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy

So, the garage had part of the floor covered with vinyl tile.

No sweat. Bought a floor scraper from Harbor Freight. Nice tool. Very sharp,
thick blade on the end of a pole. Good for smooth concrete subfloors.

Now I'm moving to the bathroom, which isn't over a slab--it's hung off the
side of the building over a crawlspace. Which means a wood subfloor.

The scraper is too sharp. The vinyl tile is at least two layers deep (they
just tiled over the old tile) and it flexes. So running the scraper over it,
it either bites into the tile and binds up (it can't bear against the rigid
concrete subfloor), or it bites into the wood floor itself.

I need...a dull(er) scraper. Maybe. Something I can lever under the tile
that won't bite into the wood or tile. Or do I just need something else?
Or...how can I remove vinyl tile from a wood subfloor? The tile is so old
that it's disintegrating and I can't pull it up a tile at a time. But it's
also too crumble-y to try to get a piece at a time--it's take months just to
do the 10-by-6 area.

Looking for advice--the garage mahal has a bathroom, and it's going to be
awesome. As soon as I get this vinyl tile up.

Scott
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  3 14:42:02 2015
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From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 15:37:17 -0600
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Actually, the scraper blade *is* shaped just like a very large chisel.

And it's made of something like Mithral--my first thought was to file the
scraper until a desired level of dull-ness was achieved. My file isn't
doing a thing to it--not even the edges (like you suggested). Or else the
wood and tile are just that soft. I've hacked up about 50 sq. ft. of floor
so far.

On Tue, Nov 3, 2015 at 1:53 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I need...a dull(er) scraper. Maybe. Something I can lever
> > under the tile
> > that won't bite into the wood or tile. Or do I just need
> > something else?
>
> What about filing a taper on the end of the scraper, making it more like a
> wood chisel?  With some practice, maybe you could hit the
> edge of the tile at just the right angle, so the sharp edge would get
> under the edge of the tile, then the natural lever action as
> the scraper moves would lever the tile away from the wood.  You might also
> want to round or blunt the corners to make them less apt
> to dig in.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 13:49:58 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
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On 11/3/2015 1:29 PM, Pat Horne wrote:
> As was mentioned, beware of asbestos tile. The easiest way to identify it is
> that asbestos tile us usually 8" or 9" size, where vinyl is usually 12"
> tile.

A dozen years ago when we did some significant remodeling we found tile 
on the slab under the carpet in a couple rooms, from when the house was 
built in 1964/65.

Sent samples out for asbestos testing and found that while the tiles did 
not contain friable asbestos, the adhesive did.

The bunny-suit crew was out here at 8AM, taped off the rooms, hooked up 
the blower, suited up, busted and scraped all the tile out, gave me the 
chain-of-custody paperwork on the shipper and disposal, and was gone by 
early afternoon.  I don't recall it being memorably expensive.

John.
_______________________________________________

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From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 16:15:04 -0600
To: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

...so you're saying I need a new tool...

On Tue, Nov 3, 2015 at 2:22 PM, John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net> wrote:

> At 02:02 PM 11/3/2015, you wrote:
>
>  >Now I'm moving to the bathroom, which isn't over a slab--it's hung off
> the
>  >side of the building over a crawlspace. Which means a wood subfloor.
>
>  >The scraper is too sharp. The vinyl tile is at least two layers deep
> (they
>  >just tiled over the old tile) and it flexes. So running the scraper over
>  >it, it either bites into the tile and binds up (it can't bear against the
>  >rigid concrete subfloor), or it bites into the wood floor itself.
>
> I just pulled the vinyl tiles on my bathroom floor.   I tried using a
> heavy duty scrapper like you are talking about to no avail.  I ended
> up using a "multi tool" from
> Harbor freight:
>
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-62279.html
>
>
> using a blade like this:
>
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-high-carbon-steel-multi-tool-rigid-scraper-blade-61828.html
>
>
> Made short work of the job.
>
> John
>
>
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>
>            48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
>       75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
>                         65 Rambler Classic
>
> Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org
>
> If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
> If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>
>  From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
>       e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
>       In God We Trust
>       Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
>                    oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 16:17:22 -0600
To: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'll measure it to be sure, but this stuff is about 12 inches square, and
it looks like the mid-'80s stuff my mom had in her kitchen. The stuff on
top looks like 1990s era stuff. Also about a foot square.

On Tue, Nov 3, 2015 at 3:29 PM, Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com> wrote:

> As was mentioned, beware of asbestos tile. The easiest way to identify it
> is
> that asbestos tile us usually 8" or 9" size, where vinyl is usually 12"
> tile.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Scott
> Hall
> Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 1:02 PM
> To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
>
> So, the garage had part of the floor covered with vinyl tile.
>
> No sweat. Bought a floor scraper from Harbor Freight. Nice tool. Very
> sharp,
> thick blade on the end of a pole. Good for smooth concrete subfloors.
>
> Now I'm moving to the bathroom, which isn't over a slab--it's hung off the
> side of the building over a crawlspace. Which means a wood subfloor.
>
> The scraper is too sharp. The vinyl tile is at least two layers deep (they
> just tiled over the old tile) and it flexes. So running the scraper over
> it,
> it either bites into the tile and binds up (it can't bear against the rigid
> concrete subfloor), or it bites into the wood floor itself.
>
> I need...a dull(er) scraper. Maybe. Something I can lever under the tile
> that won't bite into the wood or tile. Or do I just need something else?
> Or...how can I remove vinyl tile from a wood subfloor? The tile is so old
> that it's disintegrating and I can't pull it up a tile at a time. But it's
> also too crumble-y to try to get a piece at a time--it's take months just
> to
> do the 10-by-6 area.
>
> Looking for advice--the garage mahal has a bathroom, and it's going to be
> awesome. As soon as I get this vinyl tile up.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 17:38:09 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
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On Tue, 3 Nov 2015, Scott Hall wrote:
> I'll measure it to be sure, but this stuff is about 12 inches square, and
> it looks like the mid-'80s stuff my mom had in her kitchen. The stuff on
> top looks like 1990s era stuff. Also about a foot square.

    Measuring is not a fool-proof way to distinguish.  I can't believe 
someone suggested that.

<http://inspectapedia.com/hazmat/Asbestos_Floor_Tile_ID.php>

    There exist tiles of many sizes with asbestos.  That link lists many, 
but I'm not sure that's definitive either.

    If they crumble into a white powder, that's probably asbestos, and you 
don't want to be breathing that dust.  Neither does anyone you hire to 
remove them, so it'll cost a couple grand.

--
  David Hillman
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 <CAK73_u65ajbm4wSGb04cUrprfgKB07m6Xa+trFvRjZXtEaDgWg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 16:43:42 -0600
Thread-Index: AdEWhYGG6t+zu0GXSqejCJEDkhfJSAAAz2Bw
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

One other thing. Larger rental companies and some flooring suppliers will rent
you a power floor scraper. I used one on a floor that was covered with glued
down rubber sheet. It was a lot easier than working by hand and it cut out
strips about a foot wide so it should work fine on VCT. The blade shuttles
back and forth, cutting into the mastic.



Peace,

Pat



From: Scott Hall [mailto:scott.hall.personal@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 4:17 PM
To: Pat Horne
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy



I'll measure it to be sure, but this stuff is about 12 inches square, and it
looks like the mid-'80s stuff my mom had in her kitchen. The stuff on top
looks like 1990s era stuff. Also about a foot square.



On Tue, Nov 3, 2015 at 3:29 PM, Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com> wrote:

As was mentioned, beware of asbestos tile. The easiest way to identify it is
that asbestos tile us usually 8" or 9" size, where vinyl is usually 12"
tile.

Peace,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott
Hall
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 1:02 PM
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy

So, the garage had part of the floor covered with vinyl tile.

No sweat. Bought a floor scraper from Harbor Freight. Nice tool. Very sharp,
thick blade on the end of a pole. Good for smooth concrete subfloors.

Now I'm moving to the bathroom, which isn't over a slab--it's hung off the
side of the building over a crawlspace. Which means a wood subfloor.

The scraper is too sharp. The vinyl tile is at least two layers deep (they
just tiled over the old tile) and it flexes. So running the scraper over it,
it either bites into the tile and binds up (it can't bear against the rigid
concrete subfloor), or it bites into the wood floor itself.

I need...a dull(er) scraper. Maybe. Something I can lever under the tile
that won't bite into the wood or tile. Or do I just need something else?
Or...how can I remove vinyl tile from a wood subfloor? The tile is so old
that it's disintegrating and I can't pull it up a tile at a time. But it's
also too crumble-y to try to get a piece at a time--it's take months just to
do the 10-by-6 area.

Looking for advice--the garage mahal has a bathroom, and it's going to be
awesome. As soon as I get this vinyl tile up.

Scott

_______________________________________________

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References: <d79V1r01a0NyJgq0179XCh>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
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> I ended up using a "multi tool" from Harbor freight

I'll second that.
I got a "Genesis GMT15A Multi-Purpose Oscillating Tool" off of Amazon for a 
flooring project.  The scraper worked really well for removing vinyl tile 
and carpet adhesive from a concrete slab.

Some time later, SHMBO wanted the bathroom professionally redone. The 
contractor looked at the 1960's vintage floor tiles and started muttering 
about asbestos testing. "If the tile's not here when you come back tomorrow, 
there's no problem, right?" says I. "Nope," says he. The scraper did a fine 
job on a wood subfloor, too. 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>,
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References: <CAK73_u5dOsBC6QWHYQ698vGFuKiRRWV01PTzbygOh-XviwOSig@mail.gmail.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 18:04:53 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Scott - I second the asbestos content.  A homeowner can remove small 
amounts, but if a big area, it may be best for a professional.  If you 
touch it, wear a good respirator - more than a dust mask.  I think it is 
N99 vs N95 as in the percent filtered.

Look and see if you have two layers of wood for your flooring.  If so, I 
would definitely at least take off the top layer.  Careful cutting with 
a circular saw should make it easy.

It will probably be easiest to just take a circular saw and cut around 
the edge of the room to take out the subfloor.  I did this in one 
bathroom earlier this year.  I had water damage near the shower and 
toilet and decided it was easiest to just take up the plywood and 1x6 
floor boards and put down new plywood.  I used the oscillating cutter in 
the corners where the circular saw couldn't get.  3/4" plywood was close 
enough to the 1x6 then I topped it with a layer of 1/2" plywood in the 
opposite direction.  The floor is very solid.  I went a step further 
with a layer of Ditra membrane then tile.

My second bathroom had sheet vinyl that had to come up.  I tried a heat 
gun and a scraper blade in my oscillating tool, but both took forever.  
I ended up using my rotary hammer with a chisel bit - an older version 
of this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-18-in-10-amp-heavy-duty-sds-variable-speed-rotary-hammer-69274.html
and
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-sds-max-type-masonry-chisel-bit-set-3-pc-60377.html
This quickly took up the floor in strips.  This was over a concrete 
slab.  I had a couple bits remain, so just hit them with the angle 
grinder with a concrete grinding disk.  I first tried the angle grinder 
with a wire cup, but the adhesive was too soft, so just smeared.  A 
sanding disk would be better for the wood if you keep the existing floor.

They make a compound for leveling the floor, so if you have some scrapes 
and divots, you can just skim the floor and have a near perfect 
surface.  This means you don't have to be as careful removing the old 
stuff if you try and keep the existing wood.

While working, I hung a box fan in the window on high to exhaust all the 
mess outside and wore a respirator.  My safety glasses kept fogging, so 
I switched to swim goggles.  I also wore my hearing protection as it was 
noisy.  Best to take care of yourself so you can keep doing the projects.

Brian

On 11/3/2015 11:02 AM, Scott Hall wrote:
> So, the garage had part of the floor covered with vinyl tile.
>
> No sweat. Bought a floor scraper from Harbor Freight. Nice tool. Very
> sharp, thick blade on the end of a pole. Good for smooth concrete subfloors.
>
> Now I'm moving to the bathroom, which isn't over a slab--it's hung off the
> side of the building over a crawlspace. Which means a wood subfloor.
>
> The scraper is too sharp. The vinyl tile is at least two layers deep (they
> just tiled over the old tile) and it flexes. So running the scraper over
> it, it either bites into the tile and binds up (it can't bear against the
> rigid concrete subfloor), or it bites into the wood floor itself.
>
> I need...a dull(er) scraper. Maybe. Something I can lever under the tile
> that won't bite into the wood or tile. Or do I just need something else?
> Or...how can I remove vinyl tile from a wood subfloor? The tile is so old
> that it's disintegrating and I can't pull it up a tile at a time. But it's
> also too crumble-y to try to get a piece at a time--it's take months just
> to do the 10-by-6 area.
>
> Looking for advice--the garage mahal has a bathroom, and it's going to be
> awesome. As soon as I get this vinyl tile up.
>
> Scott
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2015 19:17:58 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper...but it's not that easy
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I'll third the motion.  Everyone needs an oscillating multi tool and the 
one from HF seems to work pretty well.  I use mine a lot more than I 
expected; the sander is especially good for getting in corners.

As for the tile, everyone else has pretty much covered it.
On 11/3/2015 2:15 PM, Scott Hall wrote:
> ..so you're saying I need a new tool...
_______________________________________________

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Cc: "Shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Floor scraper -> oscillating cutter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm on my second HF oscillating cutter, but got my money's worth out of 
the first one.  For under $20, you can't go wrong.

Buy some spare blades as they don't last long.  I like the half circle 
blades for cutting along a line where you need a cut flush with an edge 
or can't fit another saw.  I have not had good luck with the HF metal 
cutting blades and the regular blades don't like hitting a nail, so if 
doing careful demo, you may go through several.

These are more of a precision tool where something else doesn't fit.  
Good uses:

- Notching a stud for an electrical box over a vanity where other studs 
were close for a circular saw.

- Removing the roof sheeting in the attic to access another portion of 
the attic.  I have a regular rectangular attic then a second area where 
there is a bedroom off to the side.  They framed and sheeted the area 
and I didn't have access to the space over the bedroom. I'm in Southern 
CA, so we have low roofs.  Half the cutting was lying on my belly with 
my arms almost fully extended cutting along the rafters to open the 
space so I could run electrical and plumbing for my bathroom renovations.

- Removing painted trim that needed to be reused after the project. This 
used a scraper blade to split the crown molding from the painted cabinet.

- Separating a door frame from the exterior stucco molding so I could 
replace the door.  I didn't want to damage the stucco or custom trim 
inset in the stucco when removing the old door so used the plunge 
cutting blade as both a cutter and a scraper sliding it along the trim 
till I hit a nail, then pulling it back and cutting the nail.  All the 
teeth were gone from the blade, but I got the door out without breaking 
stucco.

- Cutting floor tile that run under the threshold of the above door 
project.  For some reason, a previous owner tiled the floor to the 
exterior of the door opening, installed the threshold, then cut down the 
door to fit.  I used my angle grinder to cut most of the tile and a 
small diamond blade in the HF cutter to finish the ends to properly 
install the door without modification.

- Removing rotten subfloor in corners where the circular saw didn't fit.

- Using a diamond blade to cut grout so I could carefully remove tile 
for a new window without disturbing the tile that remained.

- Cutting a studs to frame for a new recessed medicine cabinet opening.  
I cut as much as I could with the circular saw then finished the cut 
with a plunge blade.  The other side of the wall is plaster and my 
daughter's bedroom, so a sawzall was out of the question.

- Cutting studs for a new electrical panel - no room for a bigger saw 
and didn't want to damage the plaster walls.

- Notching 1/2" out of the side of a floor joist to fit a new bathtub 
drain.

- Cutting back a window jam extension without removing the window during 
a bathroom remodel.  The new wall is thinner than the old wall and this 
is at least the third window in that opening and was installed inside 
the casing of an earlier window.

They are loud tools, so I recommend hearing protection.

Brian

On 11/3/2015 7:17 PM, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
> I'll third the motion.  Everyone needs an oscillating multi tool and 
> the one from HF seems to work pretty well.  I use mine a lot more than 
> I expected; the sander is especially good for getting in corners.
>
> As for the tile, everyone else has pretty much covered it.
> On 11/3/2015 2:15 PM, Scott Hall wrote:
>> ..so you're saying I need a new tool...
> _______________________________________________
>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2015 07:58:33 -0800
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Subject: [Shop-talk] HF osc. multitool (was floor scraper)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

<<< I'll third the motion. Everyone needs an oscillating multi tool and 
the one from HF seems to work pretty well.
I use mine a lot more than I expected; the sander is especially good for 
getting in corners.
As for the tile, everyone else has pretty much covered it. >>>

Love those tools.  I've been using the cheap one and then tried the 
slightly more powerful variable speed one.  That one is crap; the speed 
control failed and it cuts out often.  It could be a bad unit, but the 
single speed $15 (when on sale) one seems fine to me.

Regards,
Mark Miller
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2015 18:35:20 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] small engine direction
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

quick question.....   when the specs for a 5 (or so) horse power gas engine
says the shaft turns counter-clockwise....  which end is it referring to

the shaft end   or the recoil starter end ???     Ibm thinking looking at
the shaft end it would be counter-clockwise     right ??

need to replace the engine on my leaf vacuum (18 years old)   and trying to
find a suitable replacement

thanks
John
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  6 09:24:01 2015
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2015 10:07:41 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] small engine shaft mismatch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Good Morning Group...

herebs a thinking project for you this a.m.

I have a 5hp Tecumseh engine thatbs giving up the ghost.. horizontal keyed
shaft 1b diameter... it attaches directly to  a vacuum unit (leaves) with an
impeller with the same sized hole (of course).

Every 5 hp engine Ibve found is supplied with a 3/4b shaft...   still
searching for a 1b shaft engine but Ibm wondering if I could make a sleeve
with a 1/8b wall thickness that I could use... I understand Ibd need a
bthickerb key  and that not be a big deal to make...     what do you guys
think about the sleeve...  I could probably find a section of black pipe with
close dimensions and make one...

top speed is 3600 rpm at the shaft I think...

think itbs doable ??       OR does anyone know of a manufactured shaft
bsleeveb that I can buy ??

thanks
]John
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  6 10:09:07 2015
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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2015 10:41:24 -0600
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] small engine shaft mismatch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.amazon.com/Shaft-Adapter-Sleeve-Predator-Pulley/dp/B00T6V3TS4

On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 10:07 AM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

> Good Morning Group...
>
> hereb s a thinking project for you this a.m.
>
> I have a 5hp Tecumseh engine thatb s giving up the ghost.. horizontal keyed
> shaft 1b  diameter... it attaches directly to  a vacuum unit (leaves) with
> an
> impeller with the same sized hole (of course).
>
> Every 5 hp engine Ib ve found is supplied with a 3/4b  shaft...   still
> searching for a 1b  shaft engine but Ib m wondering if I could make a
> sleeve
> with a 1/8b  wall thickness that I could use... I understand Ib d need a
> b thickerb  key  and that not be a big deal to make...     what do you guys
> think about the sleeve...  I could probably find a section of black pipe
> with
> close dimensions and make one...
>
> top speed is 3600 rpm at the shaft I think...
>
> think itb s doable ??       OR does anyone know of a manufactured shaft
> b sleeveb  that I can buy ??
>
> thanks
> ]John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  6 10:25:32 2015
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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2015 12:05:46 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] small engine shaft mismatch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/380780662478?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82

or this?

http://www.zoro.com/dayton-bushing-reducer-pk3-2x775/i/G0315445/

-- Jeff

On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 11:07 AM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
> Good Morning Group...
>
> hereb s a thinking project for you this a.m.
>
> I have a 5hp Tecumseh engine thatb s giving up the ghost.. horizontal keyed
> shaft 1b  diameter... it attaches directly to  a vacuum unit (leaves) with an
> impeller with the same sized hole (of course).
>
> Every 5 hp engine Ib ve found is supplied with a 3/4b  shaft...   still
> searching for a 1b  shaft engine but Ib m wondering if I could make a sleeve
> with a 1/8b  wall thickness that I could use... I understand Ib d need a
> b thickerb  key  and that not be a big deal to make...     what do you guys
> think about the sleeve...  I could probably find a section of black pipe with
> close dimensions and make one...
>
> top speed is 3600 rpm at the shaft I think...
>
> think itb s doable ??       OR does anyone know of a manufactured shaft
> b sleeveb  that I can buy ??
>
> thanks
> ]John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  6 14:13:12 2015
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Jeff Scarbrough" <fishplate@gmail.com>, "shop-talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <A17AB4C290EF4D4090A109AB63519AEE@UserPC>
 <CAO8Q7CO-Vc0Sib=3WXk=2yeM=01Y4fKd4ACG2DDyE1cy+DuAJQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2015 14:57:24 -0600
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] small engine shaft mismatch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

thanks Jeff and John.... that was exacterly what I was looking for but never 
googled 'sleeve'     we tried to make one today but didn't have the 
precision we needed (old lathe and dummy operators)     Just ordered it and 
on my way to H.F. for the engine...

thanks
John


-----Original Message----- 
From: Jeff Scarbrough
Sent: Friday, November 06, 2015 11:05 AM
To: john niolon
Cc: shop-talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] small engine shaft mismatch

Like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/380780662478?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82

or this?

http://www.zoro.com/dayton-bushing-reducer-pk3-2x775/i/G0315445/

-- Jeff

On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 11:07 AM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
> Good Morning Group...
>
> hereb s a thinking project for you this a.m.
>
> I have a 5hp Tecumseh engine thatb s giving up the ghost.. horizontal 
> keyed
> shaft 1b  diameter... it attaches directly to  a vacuum unit (leaves) with 
> an
> impeller with the same sized hole (of course).
>
> Every 5 hp engine Ib ve found is supplied with a 3/4b  shaft...   still
> searching for a 1b  shaft engine but Ib m wondering if I could make a 
> sleeve
> with a 1/8b  wall thickness that I could use... I understand Ib d need a
> b thickerb  key  and that not be a big deal to make...     what do you 
> guys
> think about the sleeve...  I could probably find a section of black pipe 
> with
> close dimensions and make one...
>
> top speed is 3600 rpm at the shaft I think...
>
> think itb s doable ??       OR does anyone know of a manufactured shaft
> b sleeveb  that I can buy ??
>
> thanks
> ]John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  7 10:39:39 2015
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From: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 2015 11:12:01 -0600
To: Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Gorilla gluing tile
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got a ceramic tile floor which has a could of loose tiles.  Under the
tile is Ditra  membrane. I've put off doing a repair because  cleaning out the
old  thin set from the Ditra  is a messy pain not to mention mixing the new
thin set.
 The other day I saw where some one used Gorilla glue to replace a loose tile.
My experience with gorilla glue leads me to believe that it might work very
well to hold a ceramic floor tile in place.
Anyone tried this.?  Any thoughts on how it might work out?

Bob
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  7 13:56:40 2015
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To: Robert nogueira <nogera@me.com>, Shop-talk
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <713C3365-3C43-4306-9C8A-E26D710023D5@me.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 2015 12:40:17 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gorilla gluing tile
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob - I'd stay with a good thinset instead of glue.  You don't need to 
clean the old thinset out of the squares of the Ditra.  You just need to 
the the stuff above the surface.  If the old thinset in the membrane is 
still solid, the new thinset can adhere to it and you don't need to get 
it all out.

I would try some coarse sandpaper in a palm sander to remove all the 
thinset above the top of the Ditra.  It will eat the sandpaper quickly, 
but should work.

You need a solid base for the tile.  If the Gorilla glue has any flex, 
your grout will quickly fail.

You may want to try your question at http://www.johnbridge.com/ which is 
all about tile.

Lots of very helpful tile information in their forum.

If you do try the Gorilla glue or plaything else that works well, please 
let me know how it goes.  My kitchen has a loose tile I need to address 
one of these days.  It doesn't have a proper base and I have very 
energetic kids.

Brian

On 11/7/2015 9:12 AM, Robert nogueira wrote:
> I've got a ceramic tile floor which has a could of loose tiles.  Under the
> tile is Ditra  membrane. I've put off doing a repair because  cleaning out the
> old  thin set from the Ditra  is a messy pain not to mention mixing the new
> thin set.
>   The other day I saw where some one used Gorilla glue to replace a loose tile.
> My experience with gorilla glue leads me to believe that it might work very
> well to hold a ceramic floor tile in place.
> Anyone tried this.?  Any thoughts on how it might work out?
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2015 21:16:39 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Under hood LED work light
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm in the market for one of those LED work light bars that hangs across 
beneath the hood of your vehicle.  I'm thinking that one that plugs in 
would be better than rechargeable.  I'd appreciate any recommendations.  
Thanks very much,  John Mitchell
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>, Shop Talk
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Under hood LED work light
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Under hood LED work light
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I use mine alot, even under the car. The "arms" that also grab under the hood
also become "legs" to stand on the ground. Ive even hung it vertically when i
need tons of light somewhere. Then the light itself rotates and locks. Nice
long cord, I get tired of cordless stuff that never lasts.  It's fluorescent
but still works great after a few years of use, fine in the cold, seems pretty
well made.

Search amazon for ATD Tools 80050 30W Underhood Light
________________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of john Mitchell
<jmitch@snet.net>
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2015 9:16:39 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Under hood LED work light

I'm in the market for one of those LED work light bars that hangs across
beneath the hood of your vehicle.  I'm thinking that one that plugs in
would be better than rechargeable.  I'd appreciate any recommendations.
Thanks very much,  John Mitchell
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>, Shop Talk
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2015 07:06:16 -0800
References: <564A8E07.202@snet.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Under hood LED work light
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I also simply replaced the bulb in my regular trouble light with a 60 watt
equivalent LED and it has worked great (cooler, not impact sensitive, glare
not bad, plenty bright, etc.)

best,

des (mobile)

-----Original Message-----
From: "john Mitchell" <jmitch@snet.net>
Sent: b11/b16/b2015 6:24 PM
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Under hood LED work light

I'm in the market for one of those LED work light bars that hangs across
beneath the hood of your vehicle.  I'm thinking that one that plugs in
would be better than rechargeable.  I'd appreciate any recommendations.
Thanks very much,  John Mitchell
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 17 09:07:59 2015
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From: "Tony Vaccaro" <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
To: "'john Mitchell'" <jmitch@snet.net>, "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <564A8E07.202@snet.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2015 11:07:37 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Under hood LED work light
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been using this light for the last 2 years. Really great and it is
almost indestructible. Not LED but it works fantastic. Best work light I
have ever owned and I have owned lots.
Got is on Amazon

Bayco SL-825 13-Watt Fluorescent Work Light with 40-Feet Cord Reel 
by Bayco

Tony

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john
Mitchell
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2015 9:17 PM
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Under hood LED work light

I'm in the market for one of those LED work light bars that hangs across
beneath the hood of your vehicle.  I'm thinking that one that plugs in would
be better than rechargeable.  I'd appreciate any recommendations.  
Thanks very much,  John Mitchell
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tvacc@lotusowners.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <564A8E07.202@snet.net>
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From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Under hood LED work light
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 11/17/2015 10:06 AM, Dirtbeard wrote:
> I also simply replaced the bulb in my regular trouble light with a 60 watt
> equivalent LED and it has worked great (cooler, not impact sensitive, glare
> not bad, plenty bright, etc.)
>
> best,
>
> des (mobile)
>
Ditto.  I have two standard drop lights, one for above and one for 
below, with Cree 4 flow bulbs.  The Cree bulbs are plastic with vents so 
light weight and shock resistant.

Peter T.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 17 10:26:53 2015
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2015 09:27:43 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Under hood LED work light
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Ditto.  I have two standard drop lights, one for above and one for
> below, with Cree 4 flow bulbs.  The Cree bulbs are plastic with vents so
> light weight and shock resistant.

Yeah, it's worked well for me too.

Cheap, easy, easily serviced.

John.
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From: "john niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2015 14:06:31 -0600
Subject: [Shop-talk] hydraulic oil filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

well itbs time to change hydraulic fluid on my ZTR...  Gravely zt hd52.
Ibm planning on going full synthetic .   itbs what Gravely recommends...
of course they recommend THEIR filters, but Ibm partial to Wix or Napa gold
or platinum for all my oil filters... but Ibm not up on hydraulic stuff
(itbs all oil but itbs different, isnbt it ??)

any recommendations on brands ...   they spec a 25 micron filter on theirs.
Itbs a 5K lawnmower and I donbt want to cheap out on a filter...  not
looking for a FRAM or  Walmart substitute...

tia

john
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 19 09:01:30 2015
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Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2015 10:57:59 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] hydraulic oil filters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Putting on my engineering hat:  What's the expected cost of a
substitute filter?  Looks like the correct filter is available for $15
or less, including shipping.  Is your anticipated savings worth taking
a chance of the incorrect filter spec?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Wed, Nov 18, 2015 at 3:06 PM, john niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:
> well itb s time to change hydraulic fluid on my ZTR...  Gravely zt hd52.
> Ib m planning on going full synthetic .   itb s what Gravely recommends...
> of course they recommend THEIR filters, but Ib m partial to Wix or Napa gold
> or platinum for all my oil filters... but Ib m not up on hydraulic stuff
> (itb s all oil but itb s different, isnb t it ??)
>
> any recommendations on brands ...   they spec a 25 micron filter on theirs.
> Itb s a 5K lawnmower and I donb t want to cheap out on a filter...  not
> looking for a FRAM or  Walmart substitute...
>
> tia
>
> john
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 25 07:34:02 2015
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 09:07:27 -0500
 7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 11/25/2015 09:07:30, Serialize complete at
 11/25/2015 09:07:30
Subject: [Shop-talk] Buying a new compressor of just the 'compressor'?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

First, Happy T'day to all the US folk here.  For your not in the US, have 
a great day as well.


On to the question...

I have a compressor that I have been using for about 20 years now (wow, 
has it really been that long?)

Recently, the compressor is leaking some oil.  So I know a replacement is 
coming up.  My question, is it better to replace the whole unit, or just 
the compressor pump?

I was leaning to the whole unit just to avoid any issues with rusted 
tanks, etc.  Also, I could sell the old one to someone who really needs 
one and is willing to take the time to fix it for a low price.

So, if you were buying a new compressor, what one would you go for under 
$2000?  (240v of course.)

Thanks.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 12:44:28 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My cousin just asked me to try to repair a wooden giraffe carving he purchased
many years ago in Africa.  The statue (I think it is about 1 ft tall) fell and
broke into three pieces: the bottom of the neck snapped off from the body and
the body snapped off from the base.  Ibm game to give it a try, but stuck
trying to figure out how to excerpt proper clamping force on the two joints,
especially the neck joint. Are the special clamps that might do the trick, or
special tricks that anyone knows?

Thanks,
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 18:12:11 +0000 (UTC)
From: Dwade Reinsch <dreinsch@swbell.net>
To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>, Shop Talk
  <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <D3DA15FE-A189-423E-BCA0-B5475DB7898B@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I often use blue painter's tape to hold small things together while glue
dries.
Just be careful to not let lots of glue come out of the joint and glue to the
tape.

DwadeWylie, TX
      From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
 To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
 Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 11:44 AM
 Subject: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape

My cousin just asked me to try to repair a wooden giraffe carving he
purchased
many years ago in Africa.B  The statue (I think it is about 1 ft tall) fell
and
broke into three pieces: the bottom of the neck snapped off from the body and
the body snapped off from the base.B  Ibm game to give it a try, but stuck
trying to figure out how to excerpt proper clamping force on the two joints,
especially the neck joint. Are the special clamps that might do the trick, or
special tricks that anyone knows?

Thanks,
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dreinsch@swbell.net
_______________________________________________

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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <D3DA15FE-A189-423E-BCA0-B5475DB7898B@gmail.com>
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 11/25/2015 12:44 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
> My cousin just asked me to try to repair a wooden giraffe carving he purchased
> many years ago in Africa.  The statue (I think it is about 1 ft tall) fell and
> broke into three pieces: the bottom of the neck snapped off from the body and
> the body snapped off from the base.  Ibm game to give it a try, but stuck
> trying to figure out how to excerpt proper clamping force on the two joints,
> especially the neck joint. Are the special clamps that might do the trick, or
> special tricks that anyone knows?
Dowels and centering point.  Something like:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/153552/8pc-Dowel-Tenon-Center-Set.aspx?gclid=CKvLrpqYrMkCFUYWHwodgbAFDQ
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <D3DA15FE-A189-423E-BCA0-B5475DB7898B@gmail.com>
 <5655FC0F.9060403@comcast.net>
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 13:26:57 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
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On 11/25/2015 1:21 PM, Peter J. Thomas wrote:
> On 11/25/2015 12:44 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
>> My cousin just asked me to try to repair a wooden giraffe carving he 
>> purchased
>> many years ago in Africa.  The statue (I think it is about 1 ft tall) 
>> fell and
>> broke into three pieces: the bottom of the neck snapped off from the 
>> body and
>> the body snapped off from the base.  Ibm game to give it a try, but 
>> stuck
>> trying to figure out how to excerpt proper clamping force on the two 
>> joints,
>> especially the neck joint. Are the special clamps that might do the 
>> trick, or
>> special tricks that anyone knows?
> Dowels and centering point.  Something like:
>
> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/153552/8pc-Dowel-Tenon-Center-Set.aspx?gclid=CKvLrpqYrMkCFUYWHwodgbAFDQ 
>
You could also use fast setting epoxy and just hold it together.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 25 11:34:22 2015
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To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>, "shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net"
 <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
From: Bill Gilroy <bill.gilroy@outlook.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 13:35:02 -0500
 FILETIME=[01F6E4A0:01D127B0]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Buying a new compressor of just the  'compressor'?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I would get the whole unit.  I think you are in NJ, plenty of moisture in the
air.  I have heard good thing about Eaton's,
https://www.eatoncompressor.com/piston-compressors/industrial-series-5-10-hp

But I do not have any personal experience with them.

Sent from Outlook Mail<http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550987> for
Windows 10 phone





From: eric@megageek.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 9:35 AM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Buying a new compressor of just the 'compressor'?


First, Happy T'day to all the US folk here.  For your not in the US, have
a great day as well.


On to the question...

I have a compressor that I have been using for about 20 years now (wow,
has it really been that long?)

Recently, the compressor is leaking some oil.  So I know a replacement is
coming up.  My question, is it better to replace the whole unit, or just
the compressor pump?

I was leaning to the whole unit just to avoid any issues with rusted
tanks, etc.  Also, I could sell the old one to someone who really needs
one and is willing to take the time to fix it for a low price.

So, if you were buying a new compressor, what one would you go for under
$2000?  (240v of course.)

Thanks.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson
_______________________________________________

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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <D3DA15FE-A189-423E-BCA0-B5475DB7898B@gmail.com>
From: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 13:00:29 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Depending on geometry and size, I have found rubber bands work well.  
Best to use many small ones instead of a few big ones, as the large ones 
will distort the structure at the joints.  This goes without saying, but 
I'll say it anyway (!); the main thing is to let it dry completely

Mike

On 11/25/2015 9:44 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
> My cousin just asked me to try to repair a wooden giraffe carving he purchased
> many years ago in Africa.  The statue (I think it is about 1 ft tall) fell and
> broke into three pieces: the bottom of the neck snapped off from the body and
> the body snapped off from the base.  Ibm game to give it a try, but stuck
> trying to figure out how to excerpt proper clamping force on the two joints,
> especially the neck joint. Are the special clamps that might do the trick, or
> special tricks that anyone knows?
>
> Thanks,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722@comcast.net
>
>

-- 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 25 15:29:34 2015
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From: Neil Sherry <neiljsherry@talktalk.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 22:30:34 +0000
To: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>,Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You could reinforce gluing with steel pins, suitably concealed

On 25 November 2015 21:00:29 GMT+00:00, Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:
>Depending on geometry and size, I have found rubber bands work well.  
>Best to use many small ones instead of a few big ones, as the large
>ones 
>will distort the structure at the joints.  This goes without saying,
>but 
>I'll say it anyway (!); the main thing is to let it dry completely
>
>Mike
>
>On 11/25/2015 9:44 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
>> My cousin just asked me to try to repair a wooden giraffe carving he
>purchased
>> many years ago in Africa.  The statue (I think it is about 1 ft tall)
>fell and
>> broke into three pieces: the bottom of the neck snapped off from the
>body and
>> the body snapped off from the base.  Ibm game to give it a try, but
>stuck
>> trying to figure out how to excerpt proper clamping force on the two
>joints,
>> especially the neck joint. Are the special clamps that might do the
>trick, or
>> special tricks that anyone knows?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/phoenix722@comcast.net
>>
>>
>
>-- 
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry@talktalk.net

-- 
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 25 16:10:14 2015
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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 14:53:37 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>, Shop Talk
  <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I second the painter's tape for the neck.  Apply glue and push it together.
Wipe off any squeeze out then apply the tape to the neck.  If the joint is
rough enough that it doesn't slip, you may be able to put a thin rubber band
or two hooked around a leg over the head.  Test it first of course to make
sure it is stable.  If the body is heavy enough, the body to the base might
only need gravity.  I would probably do each part by itself and let the joint
dry.  It sounds like this is just decorative, so you don't need the structural
strength of a table or chair.

Brian


-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
>Sent: Nov 25, 2015 9:44 AM
>To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
>Subject: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
>
>My cousin just asked me to try to repair a wooden giraffe carving he
purchased
>many years ago in Africa.  The statue (I think it is about 1 ft tall) fell
and
>broke into three pieces: the bottom of the neck snapped off from the body
and
>the body snapped off from the base.  Ibm game to give it a try, but stuck
>trying to figure out how to excerpt proper clamping force on the two joints,
>especially the neck joint. Are the special clamps that might do the trick,
or
>special tricks that anyone knows?
>
>Thanks,
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 17:57:25 -0500
References: <31238779.1448492017974.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks guys.  Lots of good suggestions.  I am heading to my cousinbs house
tomorrow and bring an assortment of glues, pins, tape and rubber bands, so I
will see the giraffe then and make the final call on which of the methods will
work best.  I feel more confident of success than I did just a few hours ago!

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone!

Jim


> On Nov 25, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> I second the painter's tape for the neck.  Apply glue and push it together.
Wipe off any squeeze out then apply the tape to the neck.  If the joint is
rough enough that it doesn't slip, you may be able to put a thin rubber band
or two hooked around a leg over the head.  Test it first of course to make
sure it is stable.  If the body is heavy enough, the body to the base might
only need gravity.  I would probably do each part by itself and let the joint
dry.  It sounds like this is just decorative, so you don't need the structural
strength of a table or chair.
>
> Brian
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
>> Sent: Nov 25, 2015 9:44 AM
>> To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
>> Subject: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
>>
>> My cousin just asked me to try to repair a wooden giraffe carving he
purchased
>> many years ago in Africa.  The statue (I think it is about 1 ft tall) fell
and
>> broke into three pieces: the bottom of the neck snapped off from the body
and
>> the body snapped off from the base.  Ibm game to give it a try, but stuck
>> trying to figure out how to excerpt proper clamping force on the two
joints,
>> especially the neck joint. Are the special clamps that might do the trick,
or
>> special tricks that anyone knows?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <D3DA15FE-A189-423E-BCA0-B5475DB7898B@gmail.com>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 15:02:27 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If this is a small piece and super glue type glue would work, you can 
buy super glue accelerator spray, and put the super glue on one part, 
spray the accelerator on the other part and as soon as you put the 
pieces together, they are stuck.  Make sure everything fits because you 
only get one shot.

"Superglue" has come a long way, there are lots of isocyanurate glues 
these days and one of them might work.
> http://www.rockler.com/adhesives/ca-glue




On 11/25/2015 9:44 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
> My cousin just asked me to try to repair a wooden giraffe carving he purchased
> many years ago in Africa.  The statue (I think it is about 1 ft tall) fell and
> broke into three pieces: the bottom of the neck snapped off from the body and
> the body snapped off from the base.  Ibm game to give it a try, but stuck
> trying to figure out how to excerpt proper clamping force on the two joints,
> especially the neck joint. Are the special clamps that might do the trick, or
> special tricks that anyone knows?
>
> Thanks,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
_______________________________________________

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To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OF9C532A43.A04F87DD-ON85257F08.004FAD5F-85257F08.00500673@mail.megageek.com>
From: Dave Cavanaugh <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 15:12:50 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Buying a new compressor of just the  'compressor'?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I would replace the whole thing, and my next compressor is going to be a 
two stage unit.

On 11/25/2015 6:07 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> First, Happy T'day to all the US folk here.  For your not in the US, have
> a great day as well.
>
>
> On to the question...
>
> I have a compressor that I have been using for about 20 years now (wow,
> has it really been that long?)
>
> Recently, the compressor is leaking some oil.  So I know a replacement is
> coming up.  My question, is it better to replace the whole unit, or just
> the compressor pump?
>
> I was leaning to the whole unit just to avoid any issues with rusted
> tanks, etc.  Also, I could sell the old one to someone who really needs
> one and is willing to take the time to fix it for a low price.
>
> So, if you were buying a new compressor, what one would you go for under
> $2000?  (240v of course.)
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 25 16:42:12 2015
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <D3DA15FE-A189-423E-BCA0-B5475DB7898B@gmail.com>
 <2039656930.8647688.1448475131402.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 15:42:37 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
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Rubber bands.  Make them just tight enough to hold the joint together and
squeeze out any excess glue.  They are inexpensive, come in a variety of
sizes and most importantly, keep a constant tension and do not slip.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dwade
Reinsch
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 10:12 AM
To: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>; Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape

I often use blue painter's tape to hold small things together while glue
dries.
Just be careful to not let lots of glue come out of the joint and glue to
the
tape.

DwadeWylie, TX
      From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
 To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
 Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 11:44 AM
 Subject: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape

My cousin just asked me to try to repair a wooden giraffe carving he
purchased
many years ago in Africa.B  The statue (I think it is about 1 ft tall) fell
and
broke into three pieces: the bottom of the neck snapped off from the body
and
the body snapped off from the base.B  Ibm game to give it a try, but stuck
trying to figure out how to excerpt proper clamping force on the two joints,
especially the neck joint. Are the special clamps that might do the trick,
or
special tricks that anyone knows?

Thanks,
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dreinsch@swbell.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 16:12:35 -0800
Thread-Index: AdEnjoT17pR3ycqGT0u+ny/AshFXLAATgfow
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Buying a new compressor of just the  'compressor'?
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> My question, is it better to replace the whole 
> unit, or just 
> the compressor pump?

Even here in relatively dry southern California, my last (cheap) compressor tank rusted through and started leaking before the
compressor packed it in.  At one point I also had the pressure control switch malfunction and leave the compressor running; plus the
pop-off valve didn't do it's job (apparently full of wasp's nest).  Probably lucky it didn't explode, but the single stage
compressor would only go so high.  The PRV sure screamed a long time after I touched it, though!  So if you're looking to go another
20 years, my suggestion would be to replace all of it.

> So, if you were buying a new compressor, what one would you 
> go for under 
> $2000?  (240v of course.)

Ingersoll-Rand is the "gold standard" for air compressors IMO.  I'd find an IR model that suits your needs and go with that.  The
one I use was made by IR, but sold by Sears.  It's probably 20 years old by now (I bought it used) and still going strong, but I
don't use it all that much.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 25 18:08:12 2015
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From: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@Live.com>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OF9C532A43.A04F87DD-ON85257F08.004FAD5F-85257F08.00500673@mail.megageek.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Buying a new compressor of just the 'compressor'?
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Thoughts on compressor longevity; When I changed out the anode in my hot
water heater ( you all do this every 5-10 years right?) the new one was a
tad long to clear the ceiling, so I trimmed off about 6 inches..  I dropped
that 6 inch section into my compressor tank (horizontal cylinder) about 10
years ago.  I hope it is doing its job.

BTW - Really, you should be changing your water heater anodes every 5-10
years.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Randall
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 4:13 PM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Buying a new compressor of just the 'compressor'?

> My question, is it better to replace the whole unit, or just the 
> compressor pump?

Even here in relatively dry southern California, my last (cheap) compressor
tank rusted through and started leaking before the compressor packed it in.
At one point I also had the pressure control switch malfunction and leave
the compressor running; plus the pop-off valve didn't do it's job
(apparently full of wasp's nest).  Probably lucky it didn't explode, but the
single stage compressor would only go so high.  The PRV sure screamed a long
time after I touched it, though!  So if you're looking to go another
20 years, my suggestion would be to replace all of it.

> So, if you were buying a new compressor, what one would you go for 
> under $2000?  (240v of course.)

Ingersoll-Rand is the "gold standard" for air compressors IMO.  I'd find an
IR model that suits your needs and go with that.  The one I use was made by
IR, but sold by Sears.  It's probably 20 years old by now (I bought it used)
and still going strong, but I don't use it all that much.

-- Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibrooks@live.com
_______________________________________________

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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 17:23:57 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
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On 11/25/2015 2:57 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
> Thanks guys.  Lots of good suggestions.  I am heading to my cousinbs house
> tomorrow and bring an assortment of glues, pins, tape and rubber bands, so I
> will see the giraffe then and make the final call on which of the methods will
> work best.  I feel more confident of success than I did just a few hours ago!

Another option depending on how much time, money, and force is involved 
and whether you need alignment or just clamping, is to squirt some 
spray-foam insulation or whatever into a plastic bag and squish it down 
on one side, if necessary the same on the other, before clamping them 
with a bar clamp or whatever as the foam firms.

Just don't let the gooey foam get on the workpieces.

John.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2015 20:46:47 -0500
References: <31238779.1448492017974.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
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To: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
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That is a very clever idea!  Even if I donbt use it this time, I will
definitely file it away for the future.  Thanks.

> On Nov 25, 2015, at 8:23 PM, John Miller <jem@milleredp.com> wrote:
>
> On 11/25/2015 2:57 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
>> Thanks guys.  Lots of good suggestions.  I am heading to my cousinbs
house
>> tomorrow and bring an assortment of glues, pins, tape and rubber bands, so
I
>> will see the giraffe then and make the final call on which of the methods
will
>> work best.  I feel more confident of success than I did just a few hours
ago!
>
> Another option depending on how much time, money, and force is involved and
whether you need alignment or just clamping, is to squirt some spray-foam
insulation or whatever into a plastic bag and squish it down on one side, if
necessary the same on the other, before clamping them with a bar clamp or
whatever as the foam firms.
>
> Just don't let the gooey foam get on the workpieces.
>
> John.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
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On 11/25/2015 6:02 PM, Dave Cavanaugh wrote:
> If this is a small piece and super glue type glue would work, you can 
> buy super glue accelerator spray, and put the super glue on one part, 
> spray the accelerator on the other part and as soon as you put the 
> pieces together, they are stuck.  Make sure everything fits because 
> you only get one shot.
>
> "Superglue" has come a long way, there are lots of isocyanurate glues 
> these days and one of them might work.
>> http://www.rockler.com/adhesives/ca-glue
Word of caution.  Superglue does not fill gaps well.  It's likely the 
wood has moved either from moisture or release of tension, so will have 
gaps.
>
>
>
>
> On 11/25/2015 9:44 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
>> My cousin just asked me to try to repair a wooden giraffe carving he 
>> purchased
>> many years ago in Africa.  The statue (I think it is about 1 ft tall) 
>> fell and
>> broke into three pieces: the bottom of the neck snapped off from the 
>> body and
>> the body snapped off from the base.  Ibm game to give it a try, but 
>> stuck
>> trying to figure out how to excerpt proper clamping force on the two 
>> joints,
>> especially the neck joint. Are the special clamps that might do the 
>> trick, or
>> special tricks that anyone knows?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Gluing an awkward shape
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Superglue does not fill gaps well.

True. Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) or saw dust can used as a filler with 
the cyanoacrylate adhesive applied over it. The process is exothermic and 
produces toxic fumes; use carefully.

Bob K 
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