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 <56AEE2B7.7030905@milleredp.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2016 07:59:23 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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My house built in 1977 with a Norelco (?) central vacuum system.  When
we bought he house, everything was there except the hose.  We never
felt the need to replace the hose, due to cost, convenience, and the
part of the installation that I could see did not give me confidence
that it would actually work.  There must have been some reason that he
hose was missing in the first place...

We've got a Kenmore upright with a bag.  Everything you don't want,
but it works for us.  I plan to install the central vac main unit in
the garage someday, maybe, and use it for vacuuming the cars out.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Sun, Jan 31, 2016 at 11:44 PM, John Miller <jem@milleredp.com> wrote:
>> In my own home, I have an in-wall vacuum system, where the hoses
>> retract into the wall when you're done with them. You just release
>> the locking collar at the wall and put your hand over the nozzle.
>> Zip. Gone.
>
>
> Something like these guys?
>
> http://www.hideahose.com/
>
> I'm envisioning a short story where that goes wrong, either an Aliens remake
> or some flavor of Japanese porn...
>
> John.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  1 10:23:19 2016
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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2016 12:24:43 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF08A5B146.C9CCC137-ON85257F4B.006CDCA7-85257F4B.00705EF2@mail.megageek.com>
 <20160201063516.CCFDB25859D7@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Enough with vacuums, on to the opposite, compressed air
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    I have a filter/regulator/lubricator assembly from McMaster-Carr 
plumbed into the air lines in my shop ( part number 4957k54 if you are 
curious ).  The filter bowl has failed, and is leaking substantially. 
This is the second time the unit has failed since I bought it five years 
ago.  McMaster may send me a replacement assembly again -- I just 
called them this morning, and am awaiting their formal response.  The 
filter unit is available separately for about $100.

    For a fairly simple product that was north of $200, a MBTF of <3 years 
is not acceptable... especially if I wind up spending the $50/yr to fix it 
in the future.

    Can anyone recommend a better quality alternative, that I can install 
and forget about for a while?  I don't need super precise regulation, or 
particularly high pressure capacity.  The current unit is +/- 1 psi up 
to 150 psi, and that's fine for my use.  Alternately, I could keep the 
regulator/lubricator portions of the modular McMaster unit, which seem 
relatively trouble-free, and just add an upstream standalone filter.

    Thanks.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  1 11:38:45 2016
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 <20160201063516.2F8FE2585962@autox.team.net>
From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2016 10:43:06 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
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On 1/31/2016 4:22 PM, Richard Beels wrote:
>
> Go here and read this guy's AMAs:
> https://www.reddit.com/r/IAmA/comments/316tx6
>
> The guy's advice is spot on.  I have a Miele canister and the wife loves
> it.  It was $700 but sucks like a vaccuum should.

Yeah, it's a good read for the first two dozen pages I've gotten through 
and in my comparatively limited experience factually accurate.

Miele canisters are great.  I liked his description of their uprights as 
"designed by engineers who know canisters really well" though I've never 
used one.

Riccar is a brand I was unfamiliar with.   I note they have a power 
brush setup for central systems, which I will keep in mind against 
future requirements.

The Kirbys I've experienced are wonderful examples of 1940s-1950s 
aluminum casting art.

I've fixed a couple recent Dysons for friends, the mechanical elements 
of the things are stunningly fragile and things like the drive clutch 
must be replaced as assemblies.  Not hard to do, and not expensive, but 
it'd have cost a buck more a unit for Dyson to do it right.  I'd never 
buy one.

I have to admit to a fondness for Hoovers for the price, in many cases 
the tools and attachments are cheesy but the basic power unit is simple 
and robust.

> And we have a $100 B&D dustbuster-type model (BDH2020FLFH) that is great
> for a quick zip around the corners and edges.

We've got something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KASUEK8

It works well for what we bought it for, my biggest complaint is that 
while it's great for sucking up stuff like spilled coffee beans and 
sawdust and the like, dog hair and other lighter/finer material clogs 
the filter pretty quickly.  I should just buy a few spare filters and 
stop trying to clean the one that's in there.   It's also loud as hell 
and the flipout brush on the snout isn't all that effective.

I note they have a couple newer Li-Ion-cell versions for (at least at 
Amazon prices) not a lot more money.

John.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  1 11:53:49 2016
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From: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2016 10:52:04 -0800
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> The Kirbys I've experienced are wonderful examples of 1940s-1950s
> aluminum casting art.

...but I should have added "we're somewhat past the point in time we 
need to push an R-2800 supercharger housing around our living rooms".

John.

_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Feb  1 11:55:12 2016
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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2016 14:00:08 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF08A5B146.C9CCC137-ON85257F4B.006CDCA7-85257F4B.00705EF2@mail.megageek.com>
 <20160201063516.2F8FE2585962@autox.team.net> <56AFA73A.1070603@milleredp.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] The one tool we have never discussed here!
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On Mon, 1 Feb 2016, John Miller wrote:
> I've fixed a couple recent Dysons for friends, the mechanical elements of the 
> things are stunningly fragile and things like the drive clutch must be 
> replaced as assemblies.  Not hard to do, and not expensive, but it'd have 
> cost a buck more a unit for Dyson to do it right.  I'd never buy one.

    I'm kind of amazed by Dyson, especially the commercials they are now 
running about how they allegedly torture test units.  I have three of 
them... because I need three to have enough spare parts on hand when they 
invariably break.  They are pretty simple to repair, but engineered to 
last they are certainly not.  I'd be livid if I had ever bought one new, 
but mine all came second-hand.

    I should bite the bullet and just get one machine that'll last and 
dispose of my multi-colored menagerie.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: let's talk plumbing while I freak out
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 FILETIME=[1789CC90:01D16097]
Subject: [Shop-talk] let's talk plumbing while I freak out
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4608241240457236080==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_CY1PR13MB05037E11FD4536D625D21DDCB4D30CY1PR13MB0503namp_"

--_000_CY1PR13MB05037E11FD4536D625D21DDCB4D30CY1PR13MB0503namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


This house we bought (1905 craftsman) has a "modern" full bathroom on the l=
ower level.

The shower stall has a dual knob fixture......not sure if I am correct on t=
his description. I just noticed a drip drip.

I am fairly certain the cold water tap is now leaking--not the hot I hope. =
I think I know how to pull the valve. If I pull this valve will I be able t=
o find an "over the counter" replacement? Will a hardware store know how to=
 ID it? (I am totally clueless on plumbing issues and will admit that plumb=
ers are not over paid mainly because I cannot get to most of my fixtures as=
 I am too wide in the shoulders.)

Our water/sewer bills are close to $100 a month so I need to fix this leak =
yesterday.

Thanks for all feedback!
tim

--_000_CY1PR13MB05037E11FD4536D625D21DDCB4D30CY1PR13MB0503namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<div><br>
</div>
<div><span>This house we bought (1905 craftsman)&nbsp;has a &quot;modern&qu=
ot; full bathroom on the lower level. &nbsp;</span><br>
</div>
<div><span><br>
</span></div>
<div><span>The shower stall has a dual knob fixture......not sure if I am c=
orrect on this description. I just noticed a drip drip.&nbsp;</span></div>
<div><span><br>
</span></div>
<div><span>I am fairly certain the cold water tap is now leaking--not the h=
ot I hope. I think I know how to pull the valve.&nbsp;If I pull this valve =
will I be able to find an &quot;over the counter&quot;&nbsp;replacement? Wi=
ll a hardware store know how to ID it? (I am totally
 clueless on plumbing issues and will admit that plumbers are not over paid=
 mainly because I cannot get&nbsp;to most of my fixtures as I am too wide i=
n the shoulders.)</span></div>
<div><span><br>
</span></div>
<div><span>Our water/sewer bills are close to $100 a month so I need to fix=
 this leak yesterday.&nbsp;</span></div>
<div><span><br>
</span></div>
<div><span>Thanks for all feedback!</span></div>
<div><span>tim</span></div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

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--===============4608241240457236080==--

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From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CY1PR13MB05037E11FD4536D625D21DDCB4D30@CY1PR13MB0503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 22:37:56 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] let's talk plumbing while I freak out
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Tim - If you can get it apart, you can probably fix it.  You probably 
have one of two configurations.

1 - A washer against a seat.  You will take off the trim and unscrew the 
shaft.  At the end, will be a washer with a screw holding it in place.  
This is quick and cheap.  If the washer looks compressed and has a ring 
from the seat, it needs to be replaced.  Also look at the seat in the 
part inside the wall.  If it isn't super smooth, plan on replacing it 
too.  You will need a special wrench - think an oversize square allen 
wrench.  If you can turn the valve a little tighter after it is off, 
this is what you probably have.  This type of valve will also be several 
turns from off to all the way open.

2 - A cartridge of some sort.  This comes apart like #1, but you just 
replace the complete part.  Take the old one to the store and get a 
match.  There is typically a different part for hot and cold because 
both may turn in different directions.  This valves are often a quarter 
or half turn from off to full on.

I've serviced both of the above and always found the parts at the local 
hardware store or home center.  The local True Value had someone that 
knew what they were doing and clued me into replacing the seats in #1.

Be sure to turn off the water.  One of my valves was set into the wall, 
so I cut a paper plate to make sure the water would hit the plate and 
run into the shower instead of going down into the wall.

If any of the screws are even partially stripped, replace them so you 
can get them out in a decade when you service the valve again. The 
screws will either be brass or stainless.  Don't use a regular screw.

If you have trouble removing the handle, leave the screw in loose while 
you pull and wiggle the handle.  When the handle suddenly pops free, the 
screw will stop you and the handle from going into the opposite wall.

Consider a trip to the hardware store or home center to look at the 
parts in advance.  If you can see a brand on any of the fixtures, make a 
note of that as some like to match all the plumbing parts. For example, 
if you have a Kohler tub and toilet, you may also have Kohler valves.

Since both shower valves are probably used equally, if one is going, the 
other might not be too far behind.  I'd consider servicing both.

Brian

On 2/5/2016 8:30 PM, Tim . wrote:
>
> This house we bought (1905 craftsman) has a "modern" full bathroom on 
> the lower level.
>
> The shower stall has a dual knob fixture......not sure if I am correct 
> on this description. I just noticed a drip drip.
>
> I am fairly certain the cold water tap is now leaking--not the hot I 
> hope. I think I know how to pull the valve. If I pull this valve will 
> I be able to find an "over the counter" replacement? Will a hardware 
> store know how to ID it? (I am totally clueless on plumbing issues and 
> will admit that plumbers are not over paid mainly because I cannot 
> get to most of my fixtures as I am too wide in the shoulders.)
>

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: let's talk plumbing while I freak out
Thread-Index: AQHRYJVzu1tn6j+5R0eED3nnP2xSQp8fcZtS
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] let's talk plumbing while I freak out
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3150730007820171484==
Content-Language: en-US
	boundary="_000_SN1PR13MB0511AA8C7AF291C369815C3BB4D30SN1PR13MB0511namp_"

--_000_SN1PR13MB0511AA8C7AF291C369815C3BB4D30SN1PR13MB0511namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Thanks guy. I am able to slightly tighten the insert so hope to be able to =
remove it and rebuild it. tim


________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim . <tims=
_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2016 10:30 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] let's talk plumbing while I freak out


This house we bought (1905 craftsman) has a "modern" full bathroom on the l=
ower level.

The shower stall has a dual knob fixture......not sure if I am correct on t=
his description. I just noticed a drip drip.

I am fairly certain the cold water tap is now leaking--not the hot I hope. =
I think I know how to pull the valve. If I pull this valve will I be able t=
o find an "over the counter" replacement? Will a hardware store know how to=
 ID it? (I am totally clueless on plumbing issues and will admit that plumb=
ers are not over paid mainly because I cannot get to most of my fixtures as=
 I am too wide in the shoulders.)

Our water/sewer bills are close to $100 a month so I need to fix this leak =
yesterday.

Thanks for all feedback!
tim

--_000_SN1PR13MB0511AA8C7AF291C369815C3BB4D30SN1PR13MB0511namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"><!-- P {margin-top:0;margi=
n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Thanks guy. I am able to slightly tighten the insert so hope to be able =
to remove it and rebuild it. tim</p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@outl=
ook.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, February 5, 2016 10:30 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Shop Talk<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] let's talk plumbing while I freak out</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt; color:#000000; ba=
ckground-color:#FFFFFF; font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<div><br>
</div>
<div><span>This house we bought (1905 craftsman)&nbsp;has a &quot;modern&qu=
ot; full bathroom on the lower level. &nbsp;</span><br>
</div>
<div><span><br>
</span></div>
<div><span>The shower stall has a dual knob fixture......not sure if I am c=
orrect on this description. I just noticed a drip drip.&nbsp;</span></div>
<div><span><br>
</span></div>
<div><span>I am fairly certain the cold water tap is now leaking--not the h=
ot I hope. I think I know how to pull the valve.&nbsp;If I pull this valve =
will I be able to find an &quot;over the counter&quot;&nbsp;replacement? Wi=
ll a hardware store know how to ID it? (I am totally
 clueless on plumbing issues and will admit that plumbers are not over paid=
 mainly because I cannot get&nbsp;to most of my fixtures as I am too wide i=
n the shoulders.)</span></div>
<div><span><br>
</span></div>
<div><span>Our water/sewer bills are close to $100 a month so I need to fix=
 this leak yesterday.&nbsp;</span></div>
<div><span><br>
</span></div>
<div><span>Thanks for all feedback!</span></div>
<div><span>tim</span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

--_000_SN1PR13MB0511AA8C7AF291C369815C3BB4D30SN1PR13MB0511namp_--

--===============3150730007820171484==
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============3150730007820171484==--

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Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2016 23:20:55 -0500
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Natural gas fireplace logs installation
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0786478536050006402==

--001a11411d641e74a6052b9f1c1f

I'm replacing a set of functioning gas logs in my fireplace. Is there any
magic to doing the plumbing?  It seems to me that, aside from the
possibility of blowing up the house, the plumbing should be like any other
black pipe plumbing job.  I really dislike plumbing but dislike even more
paying a plumber $150 (i have a quote) to come in and spend 15 minutes
doing what I could do.  Of course, if the house blows, that solves the
problem of all the crap in the basement, but I digress.  Is there anything
I should beware of?  Is Teflon tape on the threads appropriate?

tnx

jim

--001a11411d641e74a6052b9f1c1f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"font-size:12.8px">I&#39;m replacing a set o=
f functioning gas logs in my fireplace. Is there any magic to doing the plu=
mbing?=C2=A0 It seems to me that, aside from the possibility of blowing up =
the house, the plumbing should be like any other black pipe plumbing job.=
=C2=A0 I really dislike plumbing but dislike even more paying a plumber $15=
0 (i have a quote) to come in and spend 15 minutes doing what I could do.=
=C2=A0 Of course, if the house blows, that solves the problem of all the cr=
ap in the basement, but I digress.=C2=A0 Is there anything I should beware =
of?=C2=A0 Is Teflon tape on the threads appropriate?</span><div style=3D"fo=
nt-size:12.8px"><br></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px">tnx</div><div sty=
le=3D"font-size:12.8px"><br></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px">jim</div>=
</div>

--001a11411d641e74a6052b9f1c1f--

--===============0786478536050006402==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


--===============0786478536050006402==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Feb 12 21:53:31 2016
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'J.C. Hassall'" <jhassall@gmail.com>,
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2016 20:58:47 -0800
Thread-Index: AdFmFf52D6UWz+AGQ+uV09dcDHnWgwABNH0g
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Natural gas fireplace logs installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Is there anything I should beware of?  Is Teflon 
> tape on the threads appropriate?

If memory serves, you're not supposed to use common white Teflon tape on gas.  Dope is OK, or there is a special yellow tape you can
use.

Just be sure to check for small leaks afterwards; preferably NOT with a lighted match!

-- Randall  

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <CAO=iLWYuOdzP2jnvc13poRfXde6tMms9FsyAip2-RnqdFf-QCg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2016 08:12:03 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>, 
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Natural gas fireplace logs installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I replaced a set of gas logs in my father-in-law's house a couple of
years ago.  I was nervous as all hell, but used the yellow tape and
took my time.  Soapy water to check for leaks.

Two years later, the house is still standing, and I'm still married.
So, it can be done without fireworks.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Fri, Feb 12, 2016 at 11:20 PM, J.C. Hassall <jhassall@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm replacing a set of functioning gas logs in my fireplace. Is there any
> magic to doing the plumbing?  It seems to me that, aside from the
> possibility of blowing up the house, the plumbing should be like any other
> black pipe plumbing job.  I really dislike plumbing but dislike even more
> paying a plumber $150 (i have a quote) to come in and spend 15 minutes doing
> what I could do.  Of course, if the house blows, that solves the problem of
> all the crap in the basement, but I digress.  Is there anything I should
> beware of?  Is Teflon tape on the threads appropriate?
>
> tnx
>
> jim
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
>
>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 13 10:53:20 2016
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Natural gas fireplace logs installation
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>> beware of?  Is Teflon tape on the threads appropriate?

This sounds like a pretty minor job.

For gas it's yellow tape or better still the yellow pipe compound.

John.

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To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 15:37:20 -0500
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Subject: [Shop-talk] 2006 Ford Focus alarm
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My daughter just picked up a used Ford Focus.  It only came with one 
key, no fob.  Everytime she unlocks the door with the key the alarm 
sounds until she inserts the key into the ignition and turn the car on.  
The fix is to go to a Ford dealer and get new key(s) and a fob(s) to 
disarm the alarm, but not cheap. But she's a recent college grad and 
only works part time in retail until she goes to grad school. There is 
no owners manual and I can't find anything on the web to disable the 
alarm.  Any know how to do this on a budget? Only thing I can think of 
is to disable the horn.

Thanks,

Peter Thomas
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] 2006 Ford Focus alarm
Thread-Index: AQHRacMTwz7E3FAvNU6vPHDo+dSTop8w4RDI
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No clue on a long term fix but disabling the horn will at least let her start her car in peace. 

Good luck

________________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Peter J. Thomas <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 2:37 PM
To: Shop-Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] 2006 Ford Focus alarm

My daughter just picked up a used Ford Focus.  It only came with one
key, no fob.  Everytime she unlocks the door with the key the alarm
sounds until she inserts the key into the ignition and turn the car on.
The fix is to go to a Ford dealer and get new key(s) and a fob(s) to
disarm the alarm, but not cheap. But she's a recent college grad and
only works part time in retail until she goes to grad school. There is
no owners manual and I can't find anything on the web to disable the
alarm.  Any know how to do this on a budget? Only thing I can think of
is to disable the horn.

Thanks,

Peter Thomas
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 19:10:00 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>, 
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2006 Ford Focus alarm
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not sure about your car, but you should be able to program a blank
if you have an existing key.

If you need a manual, though, it's the 21st century...

https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/how-tos/owner-manuals-search-results.html#/ymm/2006/Ford/Focus

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 3:37 PM, Peter J. Thomas <pj_thomas@comcast.net> wrote:
> My daughter just picked up a used Ford Focus.  It only came with one key, no
> fob.  Everytime she unlocks the door with the key the alarm sounds until she
> inserts the key into the ignition and turn the car on.  The fix is to go to
> a Ford dealer and get new key(s) and a fob(s) to disarm the alarm, but not
> cheap. But she's a recent college grad and only works part time in retail
> until she goes to grad school. There is no owners manual and I can't find
> anything on the web to disable the alarm.  Any know how to do this on a
> budget? Only thing I can think of is to disable the horn.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Peter Thomas
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Feb 17 18:23:20 2016
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Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 17:28:19 -0800
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
 BlargAV v1.1 on localhost.scooter.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2006 Ford Focus alarm
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

	If you need additional keys, my understanding is that some locksmiths can 
cut new keys and program the car to accept them as well at way less than 
the dealer charges.

	As for the fob, you can get a new fob on eBay cheap.  I did a quick search 
for "2006 focus fob".  Select "US only" to exclude the ones from China and 
Hong Kong.
	Many are new, but at <$10 I assume they're Chinesium crap sold by US 
sellers.  I'd probably select "used" in the hope of finding a genuine Ford 
product.

	Programming the car to accept the remote looks easy, no scan tool 
required.  Here are instructions, confirmed on multiple sites.

1. Turn the ignition from "Off" to "Run" four times in six seconds. Key 
stops in "Run" position on fourth cycle.

2. Turn the ignition to "Off." The car will chime to confirm that you've 
done everything correctly so far. Key is still in ignition.

3. Press any key on the first remote you're programming. Perform this 
within 20 seconds of Step 2. The car will chime to confirm programming.

4. Repeat Step 3 with each additional remote*, all within the 20 seconds. 
Remove key from ignition.

*The remotes should be inside the vehicle during the procedure (eg. all on 
front seat.)

Source: 
<http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/general-technical-chat/158101-key-fob-programming-how.html>

	The Focus Fanatic Forum has a classified section, probably could find a 
genuine part there.
FordParts.com shows a new one for $50 or so.

Todd

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 18 06:35:52 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 08:11:42 -0500
 02/18/2016 08:11:45, Serialize complete at 02/18/2016 08:11:45
Subject: [Shop-talk] Garage Vacuums
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============0751817493464879857==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 004B269485257F5D_=

So I was thinking of adding a wall mount garage vacuum like one of 
these...

http://www.amazon.com/Hoover-ProGrade-Garage-Utility-L2310/dp/B000289920/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455802332&sr=8-1&keywords=guv

or

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003R3JFJO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Q4QONC3A3JBV&coliid=IGUX6ER9MU71G

Problem is, the reviews seem to vary saying they don't have great suction.

Then I was thinking of just getting a 20' section of hose for a standard 
shop vac...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5WETYI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Q4QONC3A3JBV&coliid=I1D9CR71UI84ZG

But I was wondering if the length causes the drop in suction.

I mainly want to use it to vaccum cars out (I'm not looking to vaccum the 
shop floor or hooking it up to a dust collector as some reviewers are 
doing.)

So, does anyone have one of these?  Can anyone offer advice for getting a 
vaccum with a long hose (20' min, 50' would be ideal!)

Thanks.

BTW, for sweeping a coated shop/garage floor, get one of these!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AH5FFW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 004B269485257F5D_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">So I was thinking of adding a wall mount
garage vacuum like one of these...</font>
<br>
<br><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Hoover-ProGrade-Garage-Utility-L2310/dp/B000289920/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455802332&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=guv"><font size=2 color=blue face="sans-serif">http://www.amazon.com/Hoover-ProGrade-Garage-Utility-L2310/dp/B000289920/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1455802332&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=guv</font></a>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">or</font>
<br>
<br><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003R3JFJO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=2Q4QONC3A3JBV&amp;coliid=IGUX6ER9MU71G"><font size=2 color=blue face="sans-serif">http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003R3JFJO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=2Q4QONC3A3JBV&amp;coliid=IGUX6ER9MU71G</font></a>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Problem is, the reviews seem to vary
saying they don't have great suction.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Then I was thinking of just getting
a 20' section of hose for a standard shop vac...</font>
<br>
<br><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5WETYI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=2Q4QONC3A3JBV&amp;coliid=I1D9CR71UI84ZG"><font size=2 color=blue face="sans-serif">http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5WETYI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=2Q4QONC3A3JBV&amp;coliid=I1D9CR71UI84ZG</font></a>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">But I was wondering if the length causes
the drop in suction.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I mainly want to use it to vaccum cars
out (I'm not looking to vaccum the shop floor or hooking it up to a dust
collector as some reviewers are doing.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">So, does anyone have one of these? &nbsp;Can
anyone offer advice for getting a vaccum with a long hose (20' min, 50'
would be ideal!)</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Thanks.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">BTW, for sweeping a coated shop/garage
floor, get one of these!</font>
<br>
<br><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AH5FFW?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00"><font size=2 color=blue face="sans-serif">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AH5FFW?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00</font></a>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 18 07:05:13 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 08:41:11 -0500
 02/18/2016 08:41:12, Serialize complete at 02/18/2016 08:41:12
Subject: [Shop-talk] How NOT to buff a REALLY sharp knife
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OK, I'm looking for suggestions on how to SAFELY buff metal objects (like 
knives.)

I started making knives.  So I bought a really nice 3/4HP Baldor buffer. 
I've used buffers like this before, normally BEFORE the knife has been 
sharpened.  However, I was redoing the handle on  a knife I already 
sharpened.  Let's just say, 'things got away from me.'

11 stitches later, I'm looking for suggestions.  I need a way to hold the 
blade edge of a knife when working on it. In the past, I've taped the 
edge, but this was so sharp, it wouldn't have helped.

I've searched online, but I can't find anything to help.  I was thinking 
of a wooden 'sheath' like clamp to put the blade in.

Any Ideas?

BTW, if you want to see photos (or you want help losing our appetite, here 
are a few photos of the damage.)  Note, I didn't drop the knife!

http://tinyurl.com/thumbouch 

Thanks in advance


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 004DD9BB85257F5D_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">OK, I'm looking for suggestions on how
to SAFELY buff metal objects (like knives.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I started making knives. &nbsp;So I
bought a really nice 3/4HP Baldor buffer. &nbsp;I've used buffers like
this before, normally BEFORE the knife has been sharpened. &nbsp;However,
I was redoing the handle on &nbsp;a knife I already sharpened. &nbsp;Let's
just say, 'things got away from me.'</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">11 stitches later, I'm looking for suggestions.
&nbsp;I need a way to hold the blade edge of a knife when working on it.
In the past, I've taped the edge, but this was so sharp, it wouldn't have
helped.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I've searched online, but I can't find
anything to help. &nbsp;I was thinking of a wooden 'sheath' like clamp
to put the blade in.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Any Ideas?</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">BTW, if you want to see photos (or you
want help losing our appetite, here are a few photos of the damage.) &nbsp;Note,
I didn't drop the knife!</font>
<br>
<br><a href=http://tinyurl.com/thumbouch><font size=1 color=blue face="Verdana"><b>http://tinyurl.com/thumbouch</b></font></a><font size=3>
</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Thanks in advance</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
--=_alternative 004DD9BB85257F5D_=--

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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 11:02:07 -0600
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: "eric@megageek.com" <eric@megageek.com>
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Vacuums
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Feb 18, 2016 at 7:11 AM,  <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
> So I was thinking of adding a wall mount garage vacuum like one of these...
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Hoover-ProGrade-Garage-Utility-L2310/dp/B000289920/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455802332&sr=8-1&keywords=guv
>
> or
>
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003R3JFJO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Q4QONC3A3JBV&coliid=IGUX6ER9MU71G
>
> Problem is, the reviews seem to vary saying they don't have great suction.
>
> Then I was thinking of just getting a 20' section of hose for a standard
> shop vac...
>
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5WETYI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Q4QONC3A3JBV&coliid=I1D9CR71UI84ZG
>
> But I was wondering if the length causes the drop in suction.
>

Length of hose doesn't help, of course.  But real car vaccums -- like
at a car wash -- are really powerful.  The one at the garage I used to
run had three 2-hp motors, and boy did it suck stuff up.  It was  made
by Adams, who make lots of the ones you see at places like that.
They're expensive, but they last forever, and everything that wears
out is replaceable or servicable, so there's probably a used market
for them.




-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:17:21 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:38.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] How NOT to buff a REALLY sharp knife
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============1943439965700563275==
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--------------040507090303040602020407
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Hi.  My pole saw blade has a stout leather scabbard.  Perhaps you could 
hack together something similar using rawhide?

Image here: 
http://www.americantreeservicesupply.com/files/2443767/uploaded/Extended%20Reach%20Pole%20Saw%20Blade%20Scabbard1.jpg



On 02/18/2016 08:41 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, I'm looking for suggestions on how to SAFELY buff metal objects 
> (like knives.)
>
> I started making knives.  So I bought a really nice 3/4HP Baldor 
> buffer.  I've used buffers like this before, normally BEFORE the knife 
> has been sharpened.  However, I was redoing the handle on  a knife I 
> already sharpened.  Let's just say, 'things got away from me.'
>
> 11 stitches later, I'm looking for suggestions.  I need a way to hold 
> the blade edge of a knife when working on it. In the past, I've taped 
> the edge, but this was so sharp, it wouldn't have helped.
>
> I've searched online, but I can't find anything to help.  I was 
> thinking of a wooden 'sheath' like clamp to put the blade in.
>


--------------040507090303040602020407
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Hi.  My pole saw blade has a stout
      leather scabbard.  Perhaps you could hack together something
      similar using rawhide?<br>
      <br>
      Image here:
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.americantreeservicesupply.com/files/2443767/uploaded/Extended%20Reach%20Pole%20Saw%20Blade%20Scabbard1.jpg">http://www.americantreeservicesupply.com/files/2443767/uploaded/Extended%20Reach%20Pole%20Saw%20Blade%20Scabbard1.jpg</a><br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      On 02/18/2016 08:41 AM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:OF27F977E4.01935A29-ON85257F5D.004CD089-85257F5D.004DDA08@mail.megageek.com"
      type="cite"><font face="sans-serif" size="2">OK, I'm looking for
        suggestions on how
        to SAFELY buff metal objects (like knives.)</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2">I started making knives.  So I
        bought a really nice 3/4HP Baldor buffer.  I've used buffers
        like
        this before, normally BEFORE the knife has been sharpened.
         However,
        I was redoing the handle on  a knife I already sharpened.  Let's
        just say, 'things got away from me.'</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2">11 stitches later, I'm looking
        for suggestions.
         I need a way to hold the blade edge of a knife when working on
        it.
        In the past, I've taped the edge, but this was so sharp, it
        wouldn't have
        helped.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2">I've searched online, but I can't
        find
        anything to help.  I was thinking of a wooden 'sheath' like
        clamp
        to put the blade in.</font>
      <br>
      <font face="sans-serif" size="2"></font><br>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

--------------040507090303040602020407--

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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:30:16 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Vacuums
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Eric,

My house has a central vacuum system, and the unit is located in the 
garage.  It actually looks a lot like the pictures in your 
links.  There is an inlet at the main unit.  This serves as my garage 
vacuum for things like the car carpets.  I bought a second hose that 
I keep in the garage, so I don't have to go upstairs and bring that 
one down.  That way I also don't track dirt that clings to the 
outside of the hose through the rest of the house.    I also have a 
big shop vac that I use for wet stuff and vacuuming up big stuff that 
wouldn't fit through the regular hose.  My biggest complaint with the 
central vac unit is that it is very loud in the garage.  This may be 
OK, depending on how much you will be using it and how sensitive you 
are to such things.

-Steve

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References: <OF819AD641.C9D635A7-ON85257F5D.004A4739-85257F5D.004B271C@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 16:04:58 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Vacuums
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8364247499517583212==

--001a1144378a2425c0052c11b824

I have one of these:


http://www.sears.com/craftsman-remote-control-wall-mount-5.0-peak-hp/p-00916825000P

Like the other wall-mounted units, it has a long skinny hose, so the
suction is a bit weak.
But it can easily be unhooked from the wall and carried to some other place
to be used.
Also, it has remote-control on/off buttons at the end of the hose, which is
very handy.
It is fairly quiet.

Doug

On Thu, Feb 18, 2016 at 8:11 AM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> So I was thinking of adding a wall mount garage vacuum like one of these...
>
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">I have one of these:<br><div><br>=C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://=
www.sears.com/craftsman-remote-control-wall-mount-5.0-peak-hp/p-00916825000=
P">http://www.sears.com/craftsman-remote-control-wall-mount-5.0-peak-hp/p-0=
0916825000P</a><br><br></div><div>Like the other wall-mounted units, it has=
 a long skinny hose, so the suction is a bit weak.<br></div><div>But it can=
 easily be unhooked from the wall and carried to some other place to be use=
d.<br></div><div>Also, it has remote-control on/off buttons at the end of t=
he hose, which is very handy.<br>It is fairly quiet.<br><br></div><div>Doug=
<br></div><div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On=
 Thu, Feb 18, 2016 at 8:11 AM,  <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:eri=
c@megageek.com" target=3D"_blank">eric@megageek.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<b=
r><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;borde=
r-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><font face=3D"sans-seri=
f" size=3D"2">So I was thinking of adding a wall mount
garage vacuum like one of these...</font>
<br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div></div></div>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 18 14:47:16 2016
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 16:22:26 -0500
 02/18/2016 16:23:10, Serialize complete at 02/18/2016 16:23:10
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Vacuums
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
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Steve T. emailed me an answer and I have two follow up questions (sorry to 
post here, but his private email is bouncing back to me.)

Steve...
Thanks for the reply. 

Two quick questions- 
What make/model do you have?  How long is the hose?   

Thanks again.


Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
--=_alternative 00782A6985257F5D_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Steve T. emailed me an answer and I have
two follow up questions (sorry to post here, but his private email is bouncing
back to me.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Steve...</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Thanks for the reply.</font><font size=3>
<br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Two quick questions-</font><font size=3> </font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
What make/model do you have? &nbsp;How long is the hose? &nbsp;</font><font size=3>
<br>
</font><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
Thanks again.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
Sent from my Commodore 64 on a 2400 Baud Modem.<br>
Eric P<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson </font>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 18 16:09:44 2016
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 18:12:16 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Vacuums
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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That's weird.  Email seems alive and well from this end.  I haven't 
heard that from anyone else.  The central vacuum system is made by 
Vacu-maid.  It is 30 years old.  While that speaks well for its 
durability, it also means that the exact model probably isn't going 
to help you much.  I will check on that and the hose length and get 
back to you.

-Steve

At 04:22 PM 2/18/2016, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>Steve T. emailed me an answer and I have two follow up questions 
>(sorry to post here, but his private email is bouncing back to me.)
>
>Steve...
>Thanks for the reply.
>
>Two quick questions-
>What make/model do you have?  How long is the hose?
>
>Thanks again.
>
>
>Sent from my

--Boundary_(ID_XTavCni0Mb+KUf49Dgehkg)
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<html>
<body>
That's weird.&nbsp; Email seems alive and well from this end.&nbsp; I
haven't heard that from anyone else.&nbsp; The central vacuum system is
made by Vacu-maid.&nbsp; It is 30 years old.&nbsp; While that speaks well
for its durability, it also means that the exact model probably isn't
going to help you much.&nbsp; I will check on that and the hose length
and get back to you. <br><br>
-Steve<br><br>
At 04:22 PM 2/18/2016, eric@megageek.com wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font size=2>Steve T. emailed me
an answer and I have two follow up questions (sorry to post here, but his
private email is bouncing back to me.)</font> <br><br>
<font size=2>Steve...</font> <br>
<font size=2>Thanks for the reply.</font> <br>
<font size=2><br>
Two quick questions-</font> <font size=2><br>
What make/model do you have?&nbsp; How long is the hose?&nbsp; </font>
<br>
<font size=2><br>
Thanks again.</font> <br>
<font size=2><br><br>
Sent from my </font></blockquote></body>
</html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 18 16:34:31 2016
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 18:29:54 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <0O2R0032VN80K2F0@mta8.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
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OK, the model is P-125 and the hose is about 32 feet long.  The hose 
fittings screw on to the spiral of the hose, so I really could have 
bought any length of hose I wanted, within reason, of course.  Keep 
in mind, I believe the central vac units are a lot more expensive 
than the garage vacuum products you were looking at.  I didn't go out 
and buy it for the garage.  It was installed as part of the central 
vacuum system in my house.

-Steve


At 06:12 PM 2/18/2016, Steven Trovato wrote:
>That's weird.  Email seems alive and well from this end.  I haven't 
>heard that from anyone else.  The central vacuum system is made by 
>Vacu-maid.  It is 30 years old.  While that speaks well for its 
>durability, it also means that the exact model probably isn't going 
>to help you much.  I will check on that and the hose length and get 
>back to you.
>
>-Steve

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 18 17:34:36 2016
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From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
To: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Vacuums
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Steve - I don't like noise either.  If your central vac doesn't exhaust 
to outside, consider routing the exhaust outside.  That takes much of 
the noise away.  You can also buy or make a muffler for the exhaust on 
many central or shop vacs.  Search "shop vac muffler" or "central vac 
muffler".

Brian

On 2/18/2016 12:30 PM, Steven Trovato wrote:
> Eric,
>
> ...  My biggest complaint with the central vac
> unit is that it is very loud in the garage.  This may be OK, depending
> on how much you will be using it and how sensitive you are to such
> things.
>
> -Steve
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Feb 18 19:32:32 2016
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 21:36:51 -0500
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To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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 <56C6641B.2060100@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Vacuums
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It does exhaust outside and there is a muffler.  The noise I hear 
inside the garage is from the unit itself, not the exhaust.  I think 
thirty years ago they didn't do much to reduce noise.  Perhaps the 
new ones are better.

-Steve

At 07:38 PM 2/18/2016, Brian Kemp wrote:
>Steve - I don't like noise either.  If your central vac doesn't 
>exhaust to outside, consider routing the exhaust outside.  That 
>takes much of the noise away.  You can also buy or make a muffler 
>for the exhaust on many central or shop vacs.  Search "shop vac 
>muffler" or "central vac muffler".
>
>Brian

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	<eric@megageek.com>
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Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 22:00:31 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Garage Vacuums
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I've got a wall mount shop vac. Medium long hose (web page says 18'). I =
like it. It reaches most of my work space and is easily detachable to =
carry out to the driveway to clean cars that don't get to come inside =
the garage.=20

https://www.shopvac.com/wet-dry-vacs/vac-details.aspx?vacId=3D368&vacSKU=3D=
394-20-00=20

I have it attached to the side of my  (homemade) blasting cabinet. The =
hose from the blasting cabinet is routed first through a Dust Deputy =
cyclone separator so not a lot of dust/grit gets to the shop vac.=20

http://www.oneida-air.com/category.asp?Id=3D{CC6B6F2A-E3D7-4F18-A53C-B5C3=
57DFE131}=20

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
------=_NextPart_000_0113_01D16A97.C947D8F0
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 9.00.8112.16748">
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>I've got a wall mount shop vac. Medium =
long hose=20
(web page says 18'). I like it. It reaches most of my work space and is =
easily=20
detachable to carry out to the driveway to clean cars that don't get to =
come=20
inside the garage. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial><A=20
href=3D"https://www.shopvac.com/wet-dry-vacs/vac-details.aspx?vacId=3D368=
&amp;vacSKU=3D394-20-00">https://www.shopvac.com/wet-dry-vacs/vac-details=
.aspx?vacId=3D368&amp;vacSKU=3D394-20-00</A>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial>I have it attached to the side of =
my&nbsp;=20
(homemade) blasting cabinet. The hose from the blasting cabinet is =
routed first=20
through a Dust Deputy cyclone separator so not a lot of dust/grit gets =
to the=20
shop vac. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial><A=20
href=3D"http://www.oneida-air.com/category.asp?Id=3D{CC6B6F2A-E3D7-4F18-A=
53C-B5C357DFE131">http://www.oneida-air.com/category.asp?Id=3D{CC6B6F2A-E=
3D7-4F18-A53C-B5C357DFE131</A>}=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Eric Russell<BR>Mebane, NC</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Spot Weld Cutters
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Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2016 16:02:10 +0000
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Spot Weld Cutters
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Any one have a favorite? I have a Roadster tub I need to get out of my shop=
. I'd like to do as little damage as possible and save as much of the parts=
 as I can.

Thanks

tim

--_000_CY1PR13MB0503CE895CC45815E56BF324B4A10CY1PR13MB0503namp_
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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
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<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>Any one have a favorite? I have a Roadster tub I need to get out of my s=
hop. I'd like to do as little damage as possible and save as much of the pa=
rts as I can.</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>tim</p>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: Brian and Wendy <maynerdfamily@msn.com>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, "Shop  Talk"
 <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Spot Weld Cutters
Thread-Index: AQHRa/fgh2E/hUnrwEyX+SJzgEHpd581Id7t
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2016 16:37:08 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spot Weld Cutters
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I use the Blair double end Spot Weld cutters. I think they work pretty well=
.


Brian


________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim . <tims=
_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 9:02 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Spot Weld Cutters


Any one have a favorite? I have a Roadster tub I need to get out of my shop=
. I'd like to do as little damage as possible and save as much of the parts=
 as I can.

Thanks

tim

--_000_DM3PR20MB061927250EC8F1B0C04FCF44BBA10DM3PR20MB0619namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
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<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p><br>
</p>
<span id=3D"ms-rterangepaste-start"></span>
<p>I use the Blair double end Spot Weld cutters. I think they work pretty w=
ell.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Brian<br>
</p>
<span id=3D"ms-rterangepaste-end"></span><br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font style=3D"font-size:11pt" face=
=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-=
talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@ou=
tlook.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, February 20, 2016 9:02 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Shop Talk<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] Spot Weld Cutters</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt; color:#000000; ba=
ckground-color:#FFFFFF; font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<p>Any one have a favorite? I have a Roadster tub I need to get out of my s=
hop. I'd like to do as little damage as possible and save as much of the pa=
rts as I can.</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>tim</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 27 17:50:46 2016
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: tracing an oil leak
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Subject: [Shop-talk] tracing an oil leak
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How would a mechanic trace an oil leak if they

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<p>How would a mechanic trace an oil leak if they&nbsp;</p>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 27 17:54:44 2016
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: tracing an oil leak
Thread-Index: AQHRccLIgXYcPAuTg0iYHSZYU0xTIJ9AoiM3
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2016 01:00:12 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tracing an oil leak
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--===============3824839261255312624==
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try this again......


My youngest daughter has an oil leak in a late model Monte Carlo that it be=
yond my limited skills. She lives in St. Paul which is several hours from "=
home".

How would a mechanic trace an oil leak if they cannot visually see it? I am=
 worried that she will get taken advantage of and would like to try to educ=
ate her enough so she knows how to talk to the mechanic she uses.

Thanks!
tim

--_000_CY1PR13MB050329D19D7BB83A4608AB67B4B90CY1PR13MB0503namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
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n-bottom:0;} --></style>
</head>
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<div id=3D"divtagdefaultwrapper" style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;back=
ground-color:#FFFFFF;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<p>try this again......</p>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr">
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; fon=
t-size: 12pt;">My youngest daughter has an oil leak in a late model Monte C=
arlo</span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-seri=
f; font-size: 12pt;">&nbsp;that it beyond
 my limited skills. She lives in St. Paul which is several hours from &quot=
;home&quot;.&nbsp;</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; fon=
t-size: 12pt;"><br>
</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; fon=
t-size: 12pt;"><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-=
serif; font-size: 16px;">How would a mechanic trace an oil leak if they can=
not visually see it? I am worried that
 she will get taken advantage of and would like to try to educate her enoug=
h so she knows how to talk to the mechanic she uses.&nbsp;</span><br>
</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; fon=
t-size: 12pt;"><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-=
serif; font-size: 16px;"><br>
</span></span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; fon=
t-size: 12pt;"><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-=
serif; font-size: 16px;">Thanks!</span></span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; fon=
t-size: 12pt;"><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-=
serif; font-size: 16px;">tim</span></span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 27 18:29:47 2016
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Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 20:34:11 -0500
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CY1PR13MB0503CD87428655EE80CCD3F2B4B90@CY1PR13MB0503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tracing an oil leak
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There are UV dyes that can be added to the oil, followed by 
inspection with a UV light.  Mechanics also tend to get familiar with 
the common engines out there.  Sometimes before they even pop the 
hood they will know where the leak is.

-Steve

At 08:00 PM 2/27/2016, Tim . wrote:
>Content-Language: en-US
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> 
>boundary="_000_CY1PR13MB050329D19D7BB83A4608AB67B4B90CY1PR13MB0503namp_"
>
>try this again......
>
>My youngest daughter has an oil leak in a late model Monte Carlo 
>that it beyond my limited skills. She lives in St. Paul which is 
>several hours from "home".
>
>How would a mechanic trace an oil leak if they cannot visually see 
>it? I am worried that she will get taken advantage of and would like 
>to try to educate her enough so she knows how to talk to the 
>mechanic she uses.
>
>Thanks!
>tim
>_______________________________________________
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Feb 27 18:38:02 2016
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CY1PR13MB0503CD87428655EE80CCD3F2B4B90@CY1PR13MB0503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY1PR13MB050329D19D7BB83A4608AB67B4B90@CY1PR13MB0503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2016 20:43:26 -0500
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tracing an oil leak
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Real mechanics might add a UV dye, run the engine and use a UV light to try 
to locate the leak.

I'd clean off any suspect areas, dry them and dust some baby powder on the 
areas. That helps reveal small leaks. And of course you have to take gravity 
& air flow into account and work backwards to find the source. I've also 
held a sheet of clean white paper near any suspect areas. That helps reveal 
a fine oil mist that might otherwise be difficult to see.

How significant is the oil leak? You can buy a lot of oil for what it might 
cost to find & fix a small leak. But your daughter would have to check/add 
oil regularly.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 

My youngest daughter has an oil leak in a late model Monte Carlo that it 
beyond my limited skills. She lives in St. Paul which is several hours from 
"home".

How would a mechanic trace an oil leak if they cannot visually see it? I am 
worried that she will get taken advantage of and would like to try to 
educate her enough so she knows how to talk to the mechanic she uses. 

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Feb 28 06:00:58 2016
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From: Karl Vacek <stearman809@gmail.com>
To: "'Shop  Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CY1PR13MB0503CD87428655EE80CCD3F2B4B90@CY1PR13MB0503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tracing an oil leak
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Oil without any UV dyes will actually fluoresce under UV light anyway.  The
dyes make it fluoresce brighter, but in shade or dark a decent UV light
source will show plain engine oil just fine.
Here's a great UV light I bought from Amazon.  Machined aluminum, bright,
and inexpensive.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SIR08C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_
search_detailpage
Karl


----- Original Message ----- 
My youngest daughter has an oil leak in a late model Monte Carlo that it
beyond my limited skills. She lives in St. Paul which is several hours from
"home".

How would a mechanic trace an oil leak if they cannot visually see it? I am
worried that she will get taken advantage of and would like to try to
educate her enough so she knows how to talk to the mechanic she uses.


_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2016 13:44:16 -0500
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tracing an oil leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

 >How would a mechanic trace an oil leak if they cannot visually see it? I am
 >worried that she will get taken advantage of and would like to try 
to educate her
 >enough so she knows how to talk to the mechanic she uses.

Tim,

In addition to what has been said,

1. A through cleaning of the enigine helps so you aren't looking at 
of the old crud.

2. I've used aerosol foot powder to spray an area of the engine where I tought
the leak was coming from so I could see where it was running down.

This is all fiine if its on the top of the engine, or possibly the 
front.  If it's the rear
main seal or some other items, you'll have to look under the car.  She may want
to park the car on a piece of cardboard so she can measure how far back from
the front bumper it is.   Then from under the car, measure that far 
back and look
around.

I've found some oil lead coming from very odd areas, like the 
mounting plate for
the generator.  One of the mount bolts was through an oil passage (be design).
I've seem similar things around fuel pumps (but you probably talking 
about a fuel
injected engine).  The most obvious place is the valve cover.  What 
does the are
around that look like.  Try tightening the bolts just a bit and see 
if that helps.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
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