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From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2020 15:00:53 -0500
 12/04/2020 03:00:55 PM,
 Serialize complete at 12/04/2020 03:00:55 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] bandsaw blades
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

--===============2314292953429078974==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

--=_alternative 006DF27D85258634_=

Guys,

I have a couple of bandsaw blades that are dull.  These are the 24 TPI or 
greater blades that have too many teeth to sharpen manually (this is off a 
14" bandsaw.)

Do you guys know of anything I can do with them, or just chuck up 
(recycle?)

Thanks.

Moose.



"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?

--=_alternative 006DF27D85258634_=

<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Guys,</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">I have a couple
of bandsaw blades that are dull. &nbsp;These are the 24 TPI or greater
blades that have too many teeth to sharpen manually (this is off a 14&quot;
bandsaw.)</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Do you guys know
of anything I can do with them, or just chuck up (recycle?)</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Thanks.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Moose.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif"><br>
<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson <br>
-Who is John Galt?</span>

--=_alternative 006DF27D85258634_=--

--===============2314292953429078974==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============2314292953429078974==--

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References: <OF143D98C6.F671F82E-ON85258634.006DB496-85258634.006DF27F@mail.megageek.com>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2020 16:15:46 -0500
To: eric@megageek.com
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] bandsaw blades
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Make a set of lock picking tools?

Forge a knife blade?

On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 3:08 PM <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> I have a couple of bandsaw blades that are dull.  These are the 24 TPI or greater blades that have too many teeth to sharpen manually (this is off a 14" bandsaw.)
>
> Do you guys know of anything I can do with them, or just chuck up (recycle?)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Moose.
>
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt? _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
>
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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References: <OF143D98C6.F671F82E-ON85258634.006DB496-85258634.006DF27F@mail.megageek.com>
From: Shannah Miller <shannahquilts@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2020 13:32:18 -0800
To: eric <eric@megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] bandsaw blades
Cc: ShopTalk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1411208526003227408==

--0000000000009777de05b5aa3678

I agree with the suggestion to make a knife blade.
Bandsaw blades are good in canister Damascus.

Alternately, cut them into 14" lengths, and make
bread saws out of them?

Shannah

On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 12:08 PM <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Guys,
>
> I have a couple of bandsaw blades that are dull.  These are the 24 TPI or
> greater blades that have too many teeth to sharpen manually (this is off a
> 14" bandsaw.)
>
> Do you guys know of anything I can do with them, or just chuck up
> (recycle?)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Moose.
>
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt? _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts@gmail.com
>
>

--0000000000009777de05b5aa3678
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>I agree with the suggestion to make a knife blade.</d=
iv><div>Bandsaw blades are good in canister Damascus.</div><div><br></div><=
div>Alternately, cut them into 14&quot; lengths, and make</div><div>bread s=
aws out of them?</div><div><br></div><div>Shannah<br></div></div><br><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Dec 4, 2=
020 at 12:08 PM &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com<=
/a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0=
px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><=
span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Guys,</span>
<br>
<br><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">I have a couple
of bandsaw blades that are dull.=C2=A0 These are the 24 TPI or greater
blades that have too many teeth to sharpen manually (this is off a 14&quot;
bandsaw.)</span>
<br>
<br><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Do you guys know
of anything I can do with them, or just chuck up (recycle?)</span>
<br>
<br><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Thanks.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Moose.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif"><br>
<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a ratio=
nal
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson <br>
-Who is John Galt?</span>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/shannahquilts@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://au=
tox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--0000000000009777de05b5aa3678--

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============1411208526003227408==--

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: failed light fixture?
Thread-Index: AQHWzBsxE5vxDGeyG0WKp1JoJ4pKDQ==
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 22:01:32 +0000
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Subject: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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--_000_DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0DS7PR19MB4629namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hey all,

Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over t=
he mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and n=
o breaker tripped.

thanks
tim

--_000_DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0DS7PR19MB4629namp_
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<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
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Hey all,&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over t=
he mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and n=
o breaker tripped.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
tim</div>
</body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  6 15:06:02 2020
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From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 14:05:41 -0800
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0048367556910458751==

--000000000000d5cc9905b5d2e9fb

Hi Tim

Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be
the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there
to test it.

best,

doug

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over
> the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and
> no breaker tripped.
>
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000d5cc9905b5d2e9fb
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Tim<div><br></div><div>Is it a fluorescent fixture? If =
so it could be the ballast. It also may be the switch. I would try a meter =
at the switch if you have a neutral there to test it.</div><div><br></div><=
div>best,</div><div><br></div><div>doug</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_=
quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM=
 Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_datsun_stu=
ff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" st=
yle=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padd=
ing-left:1ex">




<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Hey all,=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over t=
he mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and n=
o breaker tripped.=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
tim</div>
</div>

_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/dirtbeard@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--000000000000d5cc9905b5d2e9fb--

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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  6 15:06:47 2020
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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 17:06:39 -0500
 12/06/2020 05:06:39 PM,
 Serialize complete at 12/06/2020 05:06:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

--===============3443507646005338718==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

--=_alternative 007975B685258636_=

They can absolutely fail.  Much of these are cheaper imports and 
connections that heat and cool over and over again can fail over time.

I'm actually just working on a scuba tank lamp and the fixture the guy 
wanted me to use had this exact problem.

Good news, they are SUPER easy to fix!


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?



From:   "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To:     "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date:   12/06/2020 05:01 PM
Subject:        [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Sent by:        "Shop-talk" <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net>



Hey all, 

Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over 
the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and 
no breaker tripped. 

thanks
tim_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
http://autox.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric@megageek.com





--=_alternative 007975B685258636_=

<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">They can absolutely
fail. &nbsp;Much of these are cheaper imports and connections that heat
and cool over and over again can fail over time.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">I'm actually just
working on a scuba tank lamp and the fixture the guy wanted me to use had
this exact problem.</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Good news, they
are SUPER easy to fix!</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif"><br>
<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson <br>
-Who is John Galt?</span>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:9pt;color:#5f5f5f;font-family:sans-serif">From:
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</span><span style=" font-size:9pt;font-family:sans-serif">&quot;Tim
.&quot; &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com&gt;</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:9pt;color:#5f5f5f;font-family:sans-serif">To:
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</span><span style=" font-size:9pt;font-family:sans-serif">&quot;Shop
&nbsp;Talk&quot; &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:9pt;color:#5f5f5f;font-family:sans-serif">Date:
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</span><span style=" font-size:9pt;font-family:sans-serif">12/06/2020
05:01 PM</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:9pt;color:#5f5f5f;font-family:sans-serif">Subject:
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</span><span style=" font-size:9pt;font-family:sans-serif">[Shop-talk]
failed light fixture?</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:9pt;color:#5f5f5f;font-family:sans-serif">Sent
by: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</span><span style=" font-size:9pt;font-family:sans-serif">&quot;Shop-talk&quot;
&lt;shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt;</span>
<br>
<hr noshade>
<br>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri">Hey all, </span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri">Is it possible for
a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over the mirror in one
of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no breaker tripped.
</span>
<br>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri">thanks</span>
<br><span style=" font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri">tim</span><tt><span style=" font-size:10pt">_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
Archive: </span></tt><a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk"><tt><span style=" font-size:10pt">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</span></tt></a><tt><span style=" font-size:10pt">
</span></tt><a href=http://autox.team.net/archive><tt><span style=" font-size:10pt">http://autox.team.net/archive</span></tt></a><tt><span style=" font-size:10pt"><br>
<br>
<br>
</span></tt>
<br>
<br>

--=_alternative 007975B685258636_=--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Thread-Index: AQHWzBsxE5vxDGeyG0WKp1JoJ4pKDanqn6iAgAAAK4k=
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0111457018712808959==
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	boundary="_000_DS7PR19MB46293CDA51742163CDEC8174B4CF0DS7PR19MB4629namp_"

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no, incandescent fixture.

________________________________
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM
To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?

Hi Tim

Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be =
the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there t=
o test it.

best,

doug

tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>> wrote:
Hey all,

Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over t=
he mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and n=
o breaker tripped.

thanks
tim
_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive

rd@gmail.com


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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
no, incandescent fixture<span style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Ca=
libri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">.&nbsp;</span></div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> old dirtbeard &lt;dir=
tbeard@gmail.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Shop Talk &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Tim
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also ma=
y be the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral th=
ere to test it.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>best,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>doug</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim =
. &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_datsun_stuff@ou=
tlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; bord=
er-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
Hey all,&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over t=
he mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and n=
o breaker tripped.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
tim</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.ne=
t/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/dirtbeard@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 16:12:12 -0600
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============5113322237481057051==
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> On Dec 6, 2020, at 16:01, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:
>=20
> Hey all,=20
>=20
> Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over t=
he mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no=
 breaker tripped.=20
>=20
> thanks

A classic incandescent fixture doesn=E2=80=99t have much to go wrong. A few s=
plices, and the sockets. A newer fixture probably has some current limiting d=
evices (to keep you from putting 100 w incandescent bulbs in a fixture rated=
 for 26w cfls).  Those do fail.=20

Take it down, verify the connection is good, and that there is power. If tha=
t checks out, take the luminaire appart, and inspect it.=20
>=20

--Apple-Mail-A2F6F6EC-D44B-4A4A-B51E-A9D9784E249A
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br=
></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Dec 6, 2020, at 16:01, Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"m=
ailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; w=
rote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">

<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1=
">



<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Hey all,&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over th=
e mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no b=
reaker tripped.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
thanks</div></div></blockquote><div><br></div>A classic incandescent fixture=
 doesn=E2=80=99t have much to go wrong. A few splices, and the sockets. A ne=
wer fixture probably has some current limiting devices (to keep you from put=
ting 100 w incandescent bulbs in a fixture rated for 26w cfls). &nbsp;Those d=
o fail.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>Take it down, verify the connection is good=
, and that there is power. If that checks out, take the luminaire appart, an=
d inspect it.&nbsp;<br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span></sp=
an><br></div></blockquote></div></body></html>=

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  6 15:15:43 2020
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From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 17:15:26 -0500
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0240507856731952947==

--000000000000762b6805b5d30c1f

Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them or tightening will
help.  Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fail in a most bathroom.

I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a lot of heat and
current.  Most have a 60w limit.  If the bulbs are enclosed by the fixture
there may be a high temp limit switch, but I've never seen one of those in
simple light bars.

Ben

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:

> no, incandescent fixture.
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM
> *To:* Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
> *Cc:* Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
>
> Hi Tim
>
> Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be
> the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there
> to test it.
>
> best,
>
> doug
>
> On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over
> the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and
> no breaker tripped.
>
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000762b6805b5d30c1f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Sometimes it&#39;s just the wire nuts and replacing them =
or tightening will help.=C2=A0 Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fa=
il in a most bathroom.=C2=A0=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"a=
uto">I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that&#39;s a lot of h=
eat and current.=C2=A0 Most have a 60w limit.=C2=A0 If the bulbs are enclos=
ed by the fixture there may be a high temp limit switch, but I&#39;ve never=
 seen one of those in simple light bars.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div di=
r=3D"auto">Ben</div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"=
ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . &lt;<a href=3D=
"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt=
; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .=
8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">




<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
no, incandescent fixture<span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri=
,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt">.=C2=A0</span></div>
<div>
<div id=3D"m_-917542421128024479appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"m_-917542421128024479divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Ca=
libri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> =
old dirtbeard &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:dirtbeard@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noreferrer">dirtbeard@gmail.com</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" targe=
t=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Shop Talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=
=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?</font>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Tim
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also ma=
y be the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral th=
ere to test it.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>best,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>doug</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">tims_d=
atsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Hey all,=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over t=
he mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and n=
o breaker tripped.=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
tim</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
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http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.ne=
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http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
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target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/bjzwissler@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">h=
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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--_000_DS7PR19MB462938786AA0AD865358F6CBB4CF0DS7PR19MB4629namp_
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three of the bulbs are LED so no heat issues.

I'll grab the multi meter tomorrow and do some checking

thanks all

________________________________
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:15 PM
To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Cc: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com>; Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.ne=
t>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?

Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them or tightening will hel=
p.  Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fail in a most bathroom.

I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a lot of heat and c=
urrent.  Most have a 60w limit.  If the bulbs are enclosed by the fixture t=
here may be a high temp limit switch, but I've never seen one of those in s=
imple light bars.

Ben

ms_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>> wrote:
no, incandescent fixture.

________________________________
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM
om>>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?

Hi Tim

Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be =
the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there t=
o test it.

best,

doug

tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>> wrote:
Hey all,

Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over t=
he mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and n=
o breaker tripped.

thanks
tim
_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive

rd@gmail.com

_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive

ler@gmail.com


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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
three of the bulbs are LED so no heat issues.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I'll grab the multi meter tomorrow and do some checking</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
thanks&nbsp;all</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Benjamin Zwissler &lt=
;bjzwissler@gmail.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:15 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> old dirtbeard &lt;dirtbeard@gmail.com&gt;; Shop Talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them or t=
ightening will help.&nbsp; Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fail i=
n a most bathroom.&nbsp;&nbsp;
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a=
 lot of heat and current.&nbsp; Most have a 60w limit.&nbsp; If the bulbs a=
re enclosed by the fixture there may be a high temp limit switch, but I've =
never seen one of those in simple light bars.
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Ben</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_datsun_stuff@outl=
ook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex; border-left=
:1px #ccc solid; padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
no, incandescent fixture<span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibr=
i,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt">.&nbsp;</span></div>
<div>
<div id=3D"x_m_-917542421128024479appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"x_m_-917542421128024479divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"=
Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b=
> old dirtbeard &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:dirtbeard@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank=
" rel=3D"noreferrer">dirtbeard@gmail.com</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" targe=
t=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Shop Talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=
=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Tim
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also ma=
y be the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral th=
ere to test it.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>best,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>doug</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">tims_d=
atsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left:1px solid rgb(20=
4,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
Hey all,&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over t=
he mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and n=
o breaker tripped.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
tim</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
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t/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/dirtbeard@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
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http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.ne=
t/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/bjzwissler@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com</a><br=
>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 17:20:05 -0500
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAG1pxgbdxeZ8q3jGGNvGFukmZ65SU=AKhSpJfMw0Vu1xWLbb3g@mail.gmail.com>
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 <DS7PR19MB462938786AA0AD865358F6CBB4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============5623809768943685948==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_298EFF78-92CB-4E30-9DD2-9E1AFBBD93ED"


--Apple-Mail=_298EFF78-92CB-4E30-9DD2-9E1AFBBD93ED
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

Switches fail all of the time, too.  Don=E2=80=99t forget to check that.

> On Dec 6, 2020, at 5:16 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> =
wrote:
>=20
> three of the bulbs are LED so no heat issues.=20
>=20
> I'll grab the multi meter tomorrow and do some checking
> =20
> thanks all
>=20
> From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:15 PM
> To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
> Cc: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com>; Shop Talk =
<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
> =20
> Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them or tightening =
will help.  Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fail in a most =
bathroom. =20
>=20
> I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a lot of heat =
and current.  Most have a 60w limit.  If the bulbs are enclosed by the =
fixture there may be a high temp limit switch, but I've never seen one =
of those in simple light bars.
>=20
> Ben
>=20
> On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com =
> no, incandescent fixture.=20
>=20
> Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM
> To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com =
> Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net =
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
> =20
> Hi Tim
>=20
> Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also =
may be the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a =
neutral there to test it.
>=20
> best,
>=20
> doug
>=20
> On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com =
> Hey all,=20
>=20
> Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture =
over the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are =
good and no breaker tripped.=20
>=20
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive =
<http://autox.team.net/archive>
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com>
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive =
<http://autox.team.net/archive>
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com>
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@gmail.com


--Apple-Mail=_298EFF78-92CB-4E30-9DD2-9E1AFBBD93ED
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Switches fail all of the time, too. &nbsp;Don=E2=80=99t =
forget to check that.<br class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Dec 6, 2020, at 5:16 PM, Tim =
. &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" =
class=3D"">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><meta =
charset=3D"UTF-8" class=3D""><div style=3D"font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none; font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 12pt;" class=3D"">three of the bulbs are LED so no heat =
issues.&nbsp;</div><div style=3D"font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none; font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div style=3D"font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none; font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 12pt;" class=3D"">I'll grab the multi meter tomorrow and do =
some checking</div><div style=3D"font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none; font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" =
class=3D"">&nbsp;</div><div style=3D"font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none; font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 12pt;" class=3D"">thanks&nbsp;all</div><div =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: =
normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;" class=3D""><div =
id=3D"appendonsend" class=3D""></div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, =
Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display: inline-block; =
width: 714.40625px;" class=3D""><div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D""><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size: 11pt;" =
class=3D""><b class=3D"">From:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>Benjamin Zwissler &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:bjzwissler@gmail.com" =
class=3D"">bjzwissler@gmail.com</a>&gt;<br class=3D""><b =
class=3D"">Sent:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>Sunday, December 6, 2020 =
4:15 PM<br class=3D""><b class=3D"">To:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>Tim . &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" =
class=3D"">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt;<br class=3D""><b =
class=3D"">Cc:</b><span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>old =
dirtbeard &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:dirtbeard@gmail.com" =
class=3D"">dirtbeard@gmail.com</a>&gt;; Shop Talk &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br class=3D""><b =
class=3D"">Subject:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>Re: [Shop-talk] failed =
light fixture?</font><div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div></div><div =
class=3D""><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Sometimes it's just the wire =
nuts and replacing them or tightening will help.&nbsp; Sometimes the =
internal crimps corrode and fail in a most bathroom.&nbsp;&nbsp;<div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D"">I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a lot =
of heat and current.&nbsp; Most have a 60w limit.&nbsp; If the bulbs are =
enclosed by the fixture there may be a high temp limit switch, but I've =
never seen one of those in simple light bars.<div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D"">Ben</div></div></div><br class=3D""><div =
class=3D"x_gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Sun, =
Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" =
class=3D"">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br =
class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: =
0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left-width: 1px; border-left-style: solid; =
border-left-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); padding-left: 1ex;"><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D""><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, =
sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" class=3D"">no, incandescent fixture<span =
style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" =
class=3D"">.&nbsp;</span></div><div class=3D""><div =
id=3D"x_m_-917542421128024479appendonsend" class=3D""></div><div =
style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><hr style=3D"display: inline-block; =
width: 700.546875px;" class=3D""><div =
id=3D"x_m_-917542421128024479divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr" class=3D""><font =
face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size: 11pt;" class=3D""><b =
class=3D"">From:</b><span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>old=
 dirtbeard &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:dirtbeard@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noreferrer" class=3D"">dirtbeard@gmail.com</a>&gt;<br class=3D""><b=
 class=3D"">Sent:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>Sunday, December 6, 2020 =
4:05 PM<br class=3D""><b class=3D"">To:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>Tim . &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noreferrer" class=3D"">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt;<br =
class=3D""><b class=3D"">Cc:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>Shop Talk &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noreferrer" class=3D"">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br =
class=3D""><b class=3D"">Subject:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>Re: [Shop-talk] failed =
light fixture?</font><div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div></div><div =
class=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">Hi Tim<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it =
could be the ballast. It also may be the switch. I would try a meter at =
the switch if you have a neutral there to test it.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">best,</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">doug</div></div><br =
class=3D""><div class=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">On Sun, Dec 6, =
2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com"=
 target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer" =
class=3D"">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br =
class=3D""></div><blockquote style=3D"margin: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; =
border-left-width: 1px; border-left-style: solid; border-left-color: =
rgb(204, 204, 204); padding-left: 1ex;" class=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D""><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 12pt;" class=3D"">Hey all,&nbsp;</div><div =
style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, =
Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" class=3D"">Is it possible for a =
fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over the mirror in one =
of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no breaker =
tripped.&nbsp;</div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, =
sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" =
class=3D"">thanks</div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, =
sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" =
class=3D"">tim</div></div>_______________________________________________<=
br class=3D""><br class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer" =
class=3D"">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">Donate:<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank" class=3D"">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br =
class=3D"">Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.96<br =
class=3D"">Archive:<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"noreferrer =
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank" class=3D"">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage:<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><a =
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class=3D"">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail=
.com</a><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></blockquote></div></div></div></div>__________________________=
_____________________<br class=3D""><br class=3D""><a =
href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noreferrer" class=3D"">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br =
class=3D"">Donate:<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><a =
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class=3D"">Archive:<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><a =
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class=3D"">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><span =
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href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
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l.com</a><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></blockquote></div></div></div><span style=3D"caret-color: =
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text-decoration: none; float: none; display: inline !important;" =
class=3D"">_______________________________________________</span><br =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: =
normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;" class=3D""><br =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: =
normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;" class=3D""><span =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: =
normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none; float: none; =
display: inline !important;" class=3D""><a =
href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a></span><br style=3D"caret-color: =
rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: =
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normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; =
white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none;" class=3D""><span style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, =
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 id 1km3Q2-0004fr-0B; Sun, 06 Dec 2020 18:26:18 -0500
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 15:26:18 -0800
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:78.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/78.5.1
Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Yes.  Spent too much time trying to fix an exterior light that had a 
socket go bad.  It was a corroded rivet that joined the wire to the 
socket.  Use a non-contact voltage tester and see if you still have 
power to the socket.  These things are great for a basic power check.

Sample: https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-voltage-tester-63919.html

Test for power to the socket with the bulb out, then to the light 
junction box, then to the switch.  Get the tester close and it will beep 
if there is power.

Also check any GFCI breakers in the bathroom.  The lights might be on a 
tripped circuit.

Brian

On 12/6/2020 2:01 PM, Tim . wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture 
> over the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are 
> good and no breaker tripped.
>
> thanks
> tim
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
      charset=windows-1252">
  </head>
  <body>
    Yes.  Spent too much time trying to fix an exterior light that had a
    socket go bad.  It was a corroded rivet that joined the wire to the
    socket.  Use a non-contact voltage tester and see if you still have
    power to the socket.  These things are great for a basic power
    check.<br>
    <br>
    Sample:
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-voltage-tester-63919.html">https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-voltage-tester-63919.html</a><br>
    <br>
    Test for power to the socket with the bulb out, then to the light
    junction box, then to the switch.  Get the tester close and it will
    beep if there is power.<br>
    <br>
    Also check any GFCI breakers in the bathroom.  The lights might be
    on a tripped circuit.<br>
    <br>
    Brian<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/6/2020 2:01 PM, Tim . wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <style type="text/css" style="display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}</style>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        Hey all, </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb
        fixture over the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer
        works. Bulbs are good and no breaker tripped. </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        thanks</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        tim</div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>


</pre>
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From: Bill Rabel <brabel@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 15:31:54 -0800
References: <DS7PR19MB462938786AA0AD865358F6CBB4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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--Apple-Mail-FEBE7693-EBE0-421C-A85B-ADB2DE8EDAEE
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Check GFI in case the fixture is on a protected circuit.=20

- Bill Rabel
  Anacortes

Since when do you have to agree with people to defend them from injustice?

- Lillian Hellman


> On Dec 6, 2020, at 2:17 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> three of the bulbs are LED so no heat issues.=20
>=20
> I'll grab the multi meter tomorrow and do some checking
> =20
> thanks all
>=20
> From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:15 PM
> To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
> Cc: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com>; Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.n=
et>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
> =20
> Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them or tightening will he=
lp.  Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fail in a most bathroom. =20
>=20
> I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a lot of heat and c=
urrent.  Most have a 60w limit.  If the bulbs are enclosed by the fixture th=
ere may be a high temp limit switch, but I've never seen one of those in sim=
ple light bars.
>=20
> Ben
>=20
> On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:
> no, incandescent fixture.=20
>=20
> From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM
> To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
> Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
> =20
> Hi Tim
>=20
> Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be=
 the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there t=
o test it.
>=20
> best,
>=20
> doug
>=20
> On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote=
:
> Hey all,=20
>=20
> Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over t=
he mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no=
 breaker tripped.=20
>=20
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbe=
ard@gmail.com
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwis=
sler@gmail.com
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel=
@comcast.net
>=20

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	charset=utf-8
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: au=
to; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">Check GFI in case the fixture is o=
n a protected circuit.&nbsp;</span><div style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: a=
uto;"><br></div><div style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">- Bill Rabel<=
/div><div style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">&nbsp; Anacortes</div><b=
r><div dir=3D"ltr">






<p class=3D"p1"><span class=3D"s1">Since when do you have to agree with peop=
le to defend them from injustice?</span></p><p class=3D"p1"><span style=3D"f=
ont-size: 13pt;">- Lillian Hellman</span></p></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blo=
ckquote type=3D"cite">On Dec 6, 2020, at 2:17 PM, Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuf=
f@outlook.com&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"=
><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF

<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1=
">



<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
three of the bulbs are LED so no heat issues.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I'll grab the multi meter tomorrow and do some checking</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
thanks&nbsp;all</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; colo=
r:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" col=
or=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Benjamin Zwissler &lt;b=
jzwissler@gmail.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:15 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> old dirtbeard &lt;dirtbeard@gmail.com&gt;; Shop Talk &lt;shop-tal=
k@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them or ti=
ghtening will help.&nbsp; Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fail in a=
 most bathroom.&nbsp;&nbsp;
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a l=
ot of heat and current.&nbsp; Most have a 60w limit.&nbsp; If the bulbs are e=
nclosed by the fixture there may be a high temp limit switch, but I've never=
 seen one of those in simple light bars.
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Ben</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_datsun_stuff@outloo=
k.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex; border-left:=
1px #ccc solid; padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; colo=
r:rgb(0,0,0)">
no, incandescent fixture<span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri=
,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt">.&nbsp;</span></div>
<div>
<div id=3D"x_m_-917542421128024479appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; colo=
r:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"x_m_-917542421128024479divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"C=
alibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> o=
ld dirtbeard &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:dirtbeard@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" re=
l=3D"noreferrer">dirtbeard@gmail.com</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" target=
=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Shop Talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D=
"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Tim
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may=
 be the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral ther=
e to test it.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>best,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>doug</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:=
tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">tims_dat=
sun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; colo=
r:rgb(0,0,0)">
Hey all,&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; colo=
r:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; colo=
r:rgb(0,0,0)">
Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over th=
e mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no b=
reaker tripped.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; colo=
r:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; colo=
r:rgb(0,0,0)">
thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; colo=
r:rgb(0,0,0)">
tim</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefer=
rer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
rrer" target=3D"_blank">
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"noreferr=
er noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net=
/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
lk/dirtbeard@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefer=
rer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
rrer" target=3D"_blank">
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"noreferr=
er noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net=
/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
lk/bjzwissler@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com</a><br>=

<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>


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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  7 06:25:42 2020
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 08:25:30 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...

My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent. When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started again.

My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used as the toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear what's happening. 

My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains? 

Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof vent. 

thanks,
jim
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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  7 06:32:44 2020
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From: "Neil Sherry" <neiljsherry@talktalk.net>
To: "'Shop  Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629B30759F1252E8590CD53B4CF0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 13:32:19 -0000
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Content-Language: en-gb
 4TW0XZaSGGQGHxJhl4jz9ZMobdvJucYGtgXgPMQ4ef6KEKd7CKJggK/H
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

--===============4916907528273334073==
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If they are LED's and all gone off, there is probably a power supply unit to
drop supply to 12 volt and this has failed. Should be able to get a generic
one to replace it.

 

From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim .
Sent: 06 December 2020 22:17
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?

 

three of the bulbs are LED so no heat issues. 

 

I'll grab the multi meter tomorrow and do some checking

 

thanks all

 

  _____  

>
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:15 PM
To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture? 

 

Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them or tightening will
help.  Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and fail in a most bathroom.   

 

I had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a lot of heat and
current.  Most have a 60w limit.  If the bulbs are enclosed by the fixture
there may be a high temp limit switch, but I've never seen one of those in
simple light bars. 

 

Ben

 

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com

no, incandescent fixture. 

 

  _____  

Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:05 PM
To: Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture? 

 

Hi Tim 

 

Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the ballast. It also may be
the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if you have a neutral there to
test it.

 

best,

 

doug

 

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com

Hey all, 

 

Is it possible for a fixture to fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over
the mirror in one of the bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and
no breaker tripped. 

 

thanks

tim

_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
http://autox.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.com

_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
http://autox.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-GB link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>If they are LED&#8217;s and all =
gone off, there is probably a power supply unit to drop supply to 12 =
volt and this has failed. Should be able to get a generic one to replace =
it.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><di=
v style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US> Shop-talk =
&lt;shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Tim =
.<br><b>Sent:</b> 06 December 2020 22:17<br><b>To:</b> Shop Talk =
&lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] =
failed light fixture?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>three of the bulbs are LED so no =
heat issues.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>I'll grab the multi meter =
tomorrow and do some checking<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>thanks&nbsp;all<o:p></o:p></span><=
/p></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div>=
<div class=3DMsoNormal align=3Dcenter style=3D'text-align:center'><hr =
size=3D2 width=3D"98%" align=3Dcenter></div><div id=3DdivRplyFwdMsg><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span style=3D'color:black'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:black'> Benjamin Zwissler &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:bjzwissler@gmail.com">bjzwissler@gmail.com</a>&gt;<br><b>S=
ent:</b> Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:15 PM<br><b>To:</b> Tim . &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.c=
om</a>&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> old dirtbeard &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:dirtbeard@gmail.com">dirtbeard@gmail.com</a>&gt;; Shop =
Talk &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;=
<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?</span> =
<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Sometimes it's just the wire nuts and replacing them =
or tightening will help.&nbsp; Sometimes the internal crimps corrode and =
fail in a most bathroom.&nbsp;&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I =
had someone who put four 100w bulbs in one and that's a lot of heat and =
current.&nbsp; Most have a 60w limit.&nbsp; If the bulbs are enclosed by =
the fixture there may be a high temp limit switch, but I've never seen =
one of those in simple light bars. <o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Ben<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 5:07 PM Tim . &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.c=
om</a>&gt; wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>no, =
incandescent fixture.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div>=
<div class=3DMsoNormal align=3Dcenter style=3D'text-align:center'><hr =
size=3D2 width=3D"98%" align=3Dcenter></div><div =
id=3D"x_m_-917542421128024479divRplyFwdMsg"><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span style=3D'color:black'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:black'> old dirtbeard &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:dirtbeard@gmail.com" =
target=3D"_blank">dirtbeard@gmail.com</a>&gt;<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, =
December 6, 2020 4:05 PM<br><b>To:</b> Tim . &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" =
target=3D"_blank">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> =
Shop Talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> =
Re: [Shop-talk] failed light fixture?</span> <o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Hi Tim <o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Is it a fluorescent fixture? If so it could be the =
ballast. It also may be the switch. I would try a meter at the switch if =
you have a neutral there to test it.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>best,<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>doug<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 2:01 PM Tim . &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" =
target=3D"_blank">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>Hey =
all,&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>Is it possible for a fixture to =
fail? We have this four-bulb fixture over the mirror in one of the =
bathrooms. It no longer works. Bulbs are good and no breaker =
tripped.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>thanks<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>tim<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></d=
iv><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>__________________________________________=
_____<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested =
annual donation&nbsp; $12.96<br>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Ma=
nage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@gmail.c=
om" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbea=
rd@gmail.com</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div></div></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>__________________________________________=
_____<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested =
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target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Ma=
nage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.=
com" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwiss=
ler@gmail.com</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div></div></div></div></bo=
dy></html>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============4916907528273334073==--


From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  7 06:59:42 2020
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References: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 07:47:43 -0600
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1442058512963791306==

--000000000000aeca1805b5e012c1

I'd still suspect your roof vent.  Only time we ever had a vent problem it
was caused by animals trying to nest in or on the roof vent.  The plumber
we were working with insisted that he could not cover the vent pipe with
any sort of protector.  So after he left I made a wire cage box out of
stainless hardware cloth and never had another issue in the remaining 10
years we lived in that house.  I made the cage significantly larger than
the vent pipe.  I think it was about a 2.5" vent and there was at least 3"
or air space inside the cage on all sides.  I put a small piece of sheet
metal on the top of the cage directly over the vent pipe to keep any debris
out of the pipe should birds or other critters decide to nest on top of the
cage.  When we sold the house the home inspector flagged that as not being
to code, so I removed it and left it in the garage with a note for the
buyer.

On Mon, Dec 7, 2020 at 7:26 AM Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

> Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...
>
> My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent.
> When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and
> tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly
> specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The
> tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent
> from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started
> again.
>
> My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest
> item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary
> T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the
> back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T
> entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used
> as the toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear
> what's happening.
>
> My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing
> it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
>
> Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils
> down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify
> it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof
> vent.
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

--000000000000aeca1805b5e012c1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;d still suspect your roof vent.=C2=A0 Only time we e=
ver had a vent problem it was caused by animals trying to nest in or on the=
 roof vent.=C2=A0 The plumber we were working with insisted that he could n=
ot cover the vent pipe with any sort of protector.=C2=A0 So after he left I=
 made a wire cage box out of stainless hardware cloth and never had another=
 issue in the remaining 10 years we lived in that house.=C2=A0 I made the c=
age significantly larger than the vent pipe.=C2=A0 I think it was about a 2=
.5&quot; vent and there was at least 3&quot; or air space inside the cage o=
n all sides.=C2=A0 I put a small piece of sheet metal on the top of the cag=
e directly over the vent pipe to keep any debris out of the pipe should bir=
ds or other critters decide to nest on top of the cage.=C2=A0 When we sold =
the house the home inspector flagged that as not being to code, so I remove=
d it and left it in the garage with a note for the buyer.<br></div><br><div=
 class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 7,=
 2020 at 7:26 AM Jim Franklin &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org"=
>jamesf@groupwbench.org</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_=
quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,=
204);padding-left:1ex">Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...<br>
<br>
My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent. W=
hen I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub=
 enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly specifi=
c T with a 4&quot; toilet and a 2&quot; tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. T=
he tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the ve=
nt from the roof, he found &quot;stuff&quot;, and it was fixed. Last week i=
t started again.<br>
<br>
My kitchen sink T&#39;s into the stack at knee height, so it&#39;s the high=
est item on the stack. My thought is, because it&#39;s a straight T, not a =
sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow h=
its the back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of &quot;stuff&quot; ju=
st above the T entry, sealing off any venting. I can&#39;t tell if the sink=
 is also being used as the toilet&#39;s vent because there are too many wal=
ls in the way to hear what&#39;s happening. <br>
<br>
My other thought is that the &quot;stuff&quot; is growing like a mold, and =
sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains? <br>
<br>
Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils =
down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify=
 it. There isn&#39;t enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the ro=
of vent. <br>
<br>
thanks,<br>
jim<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people with =
style when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Bro=
wn=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</div>

--000000000000aeca1805b5e012c1--

--===============1442058512963791306==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============1442058512963791306==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  7 07:00:12 2020
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
From: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 08:53:33 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:78.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
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References: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 09:01:12 -0500
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4994328925601202224==

--000000000000fced8f05b5e0421d

I've had two similar issues.  Both solved and one may be helpful to you.
BTW, my house is all PVC drains, but I'm not sure that matters.

My clothes washer drain shared a pipe with a floor drain and utility tub
(sink).  The floor drain began gurgling when water drained from the other
two.  I tried flushing it but that didn't help.  What did help was using
some bacteria based drain cleaner.  It claims to have helpful bacteria
that, among other things, eat soap scum.  That has worked for many years,
except when I flush a lot of harsh cleaners down the utility sink.  I used
to do some auto part washing in that sink, but don't any longer and I
haven't had to add more bacterial cleaner for a long time.  My thought was
the harsh chemicals were killing the bacteria.

The other example was on my HVAC unit's condensate drain.  It was nothing
but a gravity drain and after many years it began backing up occasionally
and then flooding the whole unit with water.  I could disconnect it and
blow through it and that was enough to clear the clog.  Also using that
pipe was a bathroom and the kitchen sink/dishwasher.  I tried lots of
things (bleach, detergent, bacterial drain cleaners, etc) thinking mold,
moss, grease, etc was blocking it, but in the end I installed an HVAC sump
with a pump that collects a quart or so of water and then pumps it out.
That's worked flawlessly for a few years --- until the pump breaks.

Ben


Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler@gmail.com
812-343-5533
Columbus, IN


On Mon, Dec 7, 2020 at 8:25 AM Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org> wrote:

> Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...
>
> My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent.
> When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and
> tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly
> specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The
> tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent
> from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started
> again.
>
> My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest
> item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary
> T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the
> back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T
> entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used
> as the toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear
> what's happening.
>
> My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing
> it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
>
> Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils
> down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify
> it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof
> vent.
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000fced8f05b5e0421d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;ve had two similar issues.=C2=A0 Both solved and one=
 may be helpful to you.=C2=A0 BTW, my house is all PVC drains, but I&#39;m =
not sure that matters.<div><br></div><div>My clothes washer drain shared a =
pipe with a floor drain and utility tub (sink).=C2=A0 The floor drain began=
 gurgling when water drained from the other two.=C2=A0 I tried flushing it =
but that didn&#39;t help.=C2=A0 What did help was using some bacteria based=
 drain cleaner.=C2=A0 It claims to have helpful bacteria that, among other =
things, eat soap scum.=C2=A0 That has worked for many years, except when I =
flush a lot of harsh cleaners down the utility sink.=C2=A0 I used to do som=
e auto part washing in that sink, but don&#39;t any longer and I haven&#39;=
t had to add more bacterial cleaner for a long time.=C2=A0 My thought was t=
he harsh chemicals were killing the bacteria.</div><div><br></div><div>The =
other example was on my HVAC unit&#39;s condensate drain.=C2=A0 It was noth=
ing but a gravity drain and after many years it began backing up occasional=
ly and then flooding the whole unit with water.=C2=A0 I could disconnect it=
 and blow through it and that was enough to clear the clog.=C2=A0 Also usin=
g that pipe was a bathroom and the kitchen sink/dishwasher.=C2=A0 I tried l=
ots of things (bleach, detergent, bacterial drain cleaners, etc) thinking m=
old, moss, grease, etc was blocking it, but in the end I installed an HVAC =
sump with a pump that collects a quart or so of water and then pumps it out=
.=C2=A0 That&#39;s worked flawlessly for a few years --- until the pump bre=
aks.</div><div><br></div><div>Ben</div><div><br></div><div><br clear=3D"all=
"><div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_s=
ignature"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div>Ben Zwissler<br>=
</div><a href=3D"mailto:bjzwissler@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">bjzwissler@=
gmail.com</a><br></div><div>812-343-5533</div>Columbus, IN<br></div></div><=
/div></div></div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D=
"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 7, 2020 at 8:25 AM Jim Franklin &lt;=
<a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org">jamesf@groupwbench.org</a>&gt; wr=
ote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px=
 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Maybe some =
of you have an innovative solution...<br>
<br>
My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent. W=
hen I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub=
 enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly specifi=
c T with a 4&quot; toilet and a 2&quot; tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. T=
he tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the ve=
nt from the roof, he found &quot;stuff&quot;, and it was fixed. Last week i=
t started again.<br>
<br>
My kitchen sink T&#39;s into the stack at knee height, so it&#39;s the high=
est item on the stack. My thought is, because it&#39;s a straight T, not a =
sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow h=
its the back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of &quot;stuff&quot; ju=
st above the T entry, sealing off any venting. I can&#39;t tell if the sink=
 is also being used as the toilet&#39;s vent because there are too many wal=
ls in the way to hear what&#39;s happening. <br>
<br>
My other thought is that the &quot;stuff&quot; is growing like a mold, and =
sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains? <br>
<br>
Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils =
down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify=
 it. There isn&#39;t enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the ro=
of vent. <br>
<br>
thanks,<br>
jim<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/bjzwissler@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox=
.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--000000000000fced8f05b5e0421d--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============4994328925601202224==--

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: bacteria based drain cleaner was Re: [Shop-talk] Soil stack
 venting issue
Thread-Index: AQHWzJx5htIOXN7p3EqedMcFEEyWH6nrqZ4AgACSDH8=
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 22:44:47 +0000
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Subject: [Shop-talk] bacteria based drain cleaner was Re: Soil stack venting
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Any favorites out there or brands to avoid?
thanks

________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Benjamin Zw=
issler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, December 7, 2020 8:01 AM
To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue

I've had two similar issues.  Both solved and one may be helpful to you.  B=
TW, my house is all PVC drains, but I'm not sure that matters.

My clothes washer drain shared a pipe with a floor drain and utility tub (s=
ink).  The floor drain began gurgling when water drained from the other two=
.  I tried flushing it but that didn't help.  What did help was using some =
bacteria based drain cleaner.  It claims to have helpful bacteria that, amo=
ng other things, eat soap scum.  That has worked for many years, except whe=
n I flush a lot of harsh cleaners down the utility sink.  I used to do some=
 auto part washing in that sink, but don't any longer and I haven't had to =
add more bacterial cleaner for a long time.  My thought was the harsh chemi=
cals were killing the bacteria.

The other example was on my HVAC unit's condensate drain.  It was nothing b=
ut a gravity drain and after many years it began backing up occasionally an=
d then flooding the whole unit with water.  I could disconnect it and blow =
through it and that was enough to clear the clog.  Also using that pipe was=
 a bathroom and the kitchen sink/dishwasher.  I tried lots of things (bleac=
h, detergent, bacterial drain cleaners, etc) thinking mold, moss, grease, e=
tc was blocking it, but in the end I installed an HVAC sump with a pump tha=
t collects a quart or so of water and then pumps it out.  That's worked fla=
wlessly for a few years --- until the pump breaks.

Ben


Ben Zwissler
812-343-5533
Columbus, IN


jamesf@groupwbench.org>> wrote:
Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...

My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent. W=
hen I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub=
 enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly specifi=
c T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The tub doe=
s not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent from th=
e roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started again.

My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest item=
 on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary T, =
stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the back=
 of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T entry, =
sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used as the=
 toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear what's h=
appening.

My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing it=
 off. Does stuff grow in drains?

Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils =
down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify=
 it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof v=
ent.

thanks,
jim
_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive

ler@gmail.com


--_000_DS7PR19MB4629A90EC5550D6C8BF3BF62B4CE0DS7PR19MB4629namp_
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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Any favorites out there or brands to avoid?&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
thanks</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
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<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Benjamin Zwissler &lt;bjzwissler=
@gmail.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, December 7, 2020 8:01 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Jim Franklin &lt;jamesf@groupwbench.org&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Shop Talk &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">I've had two similar issues.&nbsp; Both solved and one may=
 be helpful to you.&nbsp; BTW, my house is all PVC drains, but I'm not sure=
 that matters.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>My clothes washer drain shared a pipe with a floor drain and utility t=
ub (sink).&nbsp; The floor drain began gurgling when water drained from the=
 other two.&nbsp; I tried flushing it but that didn't help.&nbsp; What did =
help was using some bacteria based drain cleaner.&nbsp;
 It claims to have helpful bacteria that, among other things, eat soap scum=
.&nbsp; That has worked for many years, except when I flush a lot of harsh =
cleaners down the utility sink.&nbsp; I used to do some auto part washing i=
n that sink, but don't any longer and I haven't
 had to add more bacterial cleaner for a long time.&nbsp; My thought was th=
e harsh chemicals were killing the bacteria.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The other example was on my HVAC unit's condensate drain.&nbsp; It was=
 nothing but a gravity drain and after many years it began backing up occas=
ionally and then flooding the whole unit with water.&nbsp; I could disconne=
ct it and blow through it and that was enough
 to clear the clog.&nbsp; Also using that pipe was a bathroom and the kitch=
en sink/dishwasher.&nbsp; I tried lots of things (bleach, detergent, bacter=
ial drain cleaners, etc) thinking mold, moss, grease, etc was blocking it, =
but in the end I installed an HVAC sump with
 a pump that collects a quart or so of water and then pumps it out.&nbsp; T=
hat's worked flawlessly for a few years --- until the pump breaks.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Ben</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"all">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_signature">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div>Ben Zwissler<br>
</div>
<a href=3D"mailto:bjzwissler@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">bjzwissler@gmail.=
com</a><br>
</div>
<div>812-343-5533</div>
Columbus, IN<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 7, 2020 at 8:25 AM Jim =
Franklin &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org">jamesf@groupwbench.o=
rg</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; bord=
er-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...<br>
<br>
My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent. W=
hen I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub=
 enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly specifi=
c T with a 4&quot; toilet and a 2&quot; tub
 inlet about 45 degrees apart. The tub does not have its own vent. 2 years =
ago I had a plumber snake the vent from the roof, he found &quot;stuff&quot=
;, and it was fixed. Last week it started again.<br>
<br>
My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest item=
 on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary T, =
stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the back=
 of the T, and eventually forming
 a cap of &quot;stuff&quot; just above the T entry, sealing off any venting=
. I can't tell if the sink is also being used as the toilet's vent because =
there are too many walls in the way to hear what's happening.
<br>
<br>
My other thought is that the &quot;stuff&quot; is growing like a mold, and =
sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
<br>
<br>
Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils =
down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify=
 it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof v=
ent.
<br>
<br>
thanks,<br>
jim<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.ne=
t/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/bjzwissler@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com</a><br=
>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============1546076985114583390==--

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References: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
 <CAMHq6Zwn0gC3bRtV-BU60fitNTBNR_VW-61o-HVVkGNLL623WQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR19MB4629A90EC5550D6C8BF3BF62B4CE0@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 17:54:09 -0500
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] bacteria based drain cleaner was Re: Soil stack
 venting issue
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============6290090405244584405==

--000000000000e5dd3705b5e7b4bd

It's been a few years, but bought it either at Lowe's or Walmart and it was
a quart size plastic bottle with a powder you mixed with warm water.  I
think it was roebic brand.

Ben

On Mon, Dec 7, 2020, 5:47 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:

> Any favorites out there or brands to avoid?
> thanks
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of
> Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, December 7, 2020 8:01 AM
> *To:* Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
> *Cc:* Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
>
> I've had two similar issues.  Both solved and one may be helpful to you.
> BTW, my house is all PVC drains, but I'm not sure that matters.
>
> My clothes washer drain shared a pipe with a floor drain and utility tub
> (sink).  The floor drain began gurgling when water drained from the other
> two.  I tried flushing it but that didn't help.  What did help was using
> some bacteria based drain cleaner.  It claims to have helpful bacteria
> that, among other things, eat soap scum.  That has worked for many years,
> except when I flush a lot of harsh cleaners down the utility sink.  I used
> to do some auto part washing in that sink, but don't any longer and I
> haven't had to add more bacterial cleaner for a long time.  My thought was
> the harsh chemicals were killing the bacteria.
>
> The other example was on my HVAC unit's condensate drain.  It was nothing
> but a gravity drain and after many years it began backing up occasionally
> and then flooding the whole unit with water.  I could disconnect it and
> blow through it and that was enough to clear the clog.  Also using that
> pipe was a bathroom and the kitchen sink/dishwasher.  I tried lots of
> things (bleach, detergent, bacterial drain cleaners, etc) thinking mold,
> moss, grease, etc was blocking it, but in the end I installed an HVAC sump
> with a pump that collects a quart or so of water and then pumps it out.
> That's worked flawlessly for a few years --- until the pump breaks.
>
> Ben
>
>
> Ben Zwissler
> bjzwissler@gmail.com
> 812-343-5533
> Columbus, IN
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 7, 2020 at 8:25 AM Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
> wrote:
>
> Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...
>
> My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent.
> When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and
> tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly
> specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The
> tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent
> from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started
> again.
>
> My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the highest
> item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not a sanitary
> T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits the
> back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T
> entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used
> as the toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear
> what's happening.
>
> My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing
> it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
>
> Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils
> down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify
> it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof
> vent.
>
> thanks,
> jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000e5dd3705b5e7b4bd
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">It&#39;s been a few years, but bought it either at Lowe&#=
39;s or Walmart and it was a quart size plastic bottle with a powder you mi=
xed with warm water.=C2=A0 I think it was roebic brand.<div dir=3D"auto"><b=
r></div><div dir=3D"auto">Ben</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><di=
v dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 7, 2020, 5:47 PM Tim . &lt;<=
a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.c=
om</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margi=
n:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">




<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Any favorites out there or brands to avoid?=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
thanks</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"m_-4183658023265361488appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"m_-4183658023265361488divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"C=
alibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b>=
 Shop-talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net" target=
=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net</a>&gt; on =
behalf of Benjamin Zwissler &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bjzwissler@gmail.com" tar=
get=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">bjzwissler@gmail.com</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, December 7, 2020 8:01 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Jim Franklin &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org" targe=
t=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">jamesf@groupwbench.org</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Shop Talk &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=
=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue</font>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;ve had two similar issues.=C2=A0 Both solved and one=
 may be helpful to you.=C2=A0 BTW, my house is all PVC drains, but I&#39;m =
not sure that matters.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>My clothes washer drain shared a pipe with a floor drain and utility t=
ub (sink).=C2=A0 The floor drain began gurgling when water drained from the=
 other two.=C2=A0 I tried flushing it but that didn&#39;t help.=C2=A0 What =
did help was using some bacteria based drain cleaner.=C2=A0
 It claims to have helpful bacteria that, among other things, eat soap scum=
.=C2=A0 That has worked for many years, except when I flush a lot of harsh =
cleaners down the utility sink.=C2=A0 I used to do some auto part washing i=
n that sink, but don&#39;t any longer and I haven&#39;t
 had to add more bacterial cleaner for a long time.=C2=A0 My thought was th=
e harsh chemicals were killing the bacteria.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The other example was on my HVAC unit&#39;s condensate drain.=C2=A0 It=
 was nothing but a gravity drain and after many years it began backing up o=
ccasionally and then flooding the whole unit with water.=C2=A0 I could disc=
onnect it and blow through it and that was enough
 to clear the clog.=C2=A0 Also using that pipe was a bathroom and the kitch=
en sink/dishwasher.=C2=A0 I tried lots of things (bleach, detergent, bacter=
ial drain cleaners, etc) thinking mold, moss, grease, etc was blocking it, =
but in the end I installed an HVAC sump with
 a pump that collects a quart or so of water and then pumps it out.=C2=A0 T=
hat&#39;s worked flawlessly for a few years --- until the pump breaks.</div=
>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Ben</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"all">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div>Ben Zwissler<br>
</div>
<a href=3D"mailto:bjzwissler@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer=
">bjzwissler@gmail.com</a><br>
</div>
<div>812-343-5533</div>
Columbus, IN<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Dec 7, 2020 at 8:25 AM Jim Franklin &lt;<a href=3D=
"mailto:jamesf@groupwbench.org" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">jamesf=
@groupwbench.org</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...<br>
<br>
My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and vent. W=
hen I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub=
 enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly specifi=
c T with a 4&quot; toilet and a 2&quot; tub
 inlet about 45 degrees apart. The tub does not have its own vent. 2 years =
ago I had a plumber snake the vent from the roof, he found &quot;stuff&quot=
;, and it was fixed. Last week it started again.<br>
<br>
My kitchen sink T&#39;s into the stack at knee height, so it&#39;s the high=
est item on the stack. My thought is, because it&#39;s a straight T, not a =
sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow h=
its the back of the T, and eventually forming
 a cap of &quot;stuff&quot; just above the T entry, sealing off any venting=
. I can&#39;t tell if the sink is also being used as the toilet&#39;s vent =
because there are too many walls in the way to hear what&#39;s happening.
<br>
<br>
My other thought is that the &quot;stuff&quot; is growing like a mold, and =
sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
<br>
<br>
Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils =
down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify=
 it. There isn&#39;t enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the ro=
of vent.
<br>
<br>
thanks,<br>
jim<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.ne=
t/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/bjzwissler@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com</a><br=
>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</=
a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/bjzwissler@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">h=
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.131.1607347943.2739.shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "Shop  Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Double sided tape with balls
Thread-Index: AQHW0Kmo/dqiA8TJwUeHAZUxKMHBlQ==
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 17:14:03 +0000
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Double sided tape with balls
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7097527873877038893==
Content-Language: en-US
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--_000_DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90DS7PR19MB4629namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hey all,

We live in a 1903 craftsman in WI that either has original windows or total=
 crap bucket replacements. Winter has finally arrived and I need to plastic=
 all the windows again. Last winter we adopted a couple Maine Coons that de=
stroyed the plastic I put up. In order to stop that, I bought some of these=
 (other plexiglass options were stupid expensive with price gouging asshats=
 taking advantage of the pandemic).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=3Dppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o=
00_s00?ie=3DUTF8&psc=3D1

I do not want to drill into the original and unpainted wood to hang these w=
ith hooks.

Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that can =
handle the weight of this plastic.

thanks
tim

--_000_DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90DS7PR19MB4629namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
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</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Hey all,&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
We live in a 1903 craftsman in WI that either has original windows or total=
 crap bucket replacements. Winter has finally arrived and I need to plastic=
 all the windows again. Last winter we adopted a couple Maine Coons that de=
stroyed the plastic I put up. In
 order to stop that, I bought some of these (other plexiglass options were =
stupid expensive with price gouging asshats taking advantage of the pandemi=
c).&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=3Dppx_yo_dt_b_a=
sin_title_o00_s00?ie=3DUTF8&amp;psc=3D1" id=3D"LPlnk597359">https://www.ama=
zon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=3Dppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=3DUTF=
8&amp;psc=3D1</a></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I do not want to drill into the original and unpainted wood to hang these w=
ith hooks.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that can =
handle the weight of this plastic.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
tim&nbsp;</div>
</body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============7097527873877038893==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 12 10:22:45 2020
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 12:21:53 -0500
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Double sided tape with balls
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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> On Dec 12, 2020, at 12:14 PM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> =
wrote:
>=20
>=20
> Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that =
can handle the weight of this plastic.=20

I would start with 3m and would be very surprised if they didn't have a =
product. However, it's likely that any product string enough to keep the =
plexi on for 6 months might also pull off some wood itself.=20

Can you add any kind of ledge under the window trim to support the =
plexi?=20

How about just covering the windows with quilts since the sun won't be =
up until April anyway? :-)

jim=

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class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Dec 12, 2020, at 12:14 PM, Tim . &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" =
class=3D"">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><div style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
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text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none; font-family: =
Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-style: =
normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: =
normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; =
white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none; font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 12pt;" class=3D"">Looking for double sided tape options that =
someone may know about that can handle the weight of this =
plastic.&nbsp;</div></div></blockquote><br class=3D""></div><div>I would =
start with 3m and would be very surprised if they didn't have a product. =
However, it's likely that any product string enough to keep the plexi on =
for 6 months might also pull off some wood itself.&nbsp;</div><br =
class=3D""><div class=3D"">Can you add any kind of ledge under the =
window trim to support the plexi?&nbsp;</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">How about just covering the windows =
with quilts since the sun won't be up until April anyway? :-)</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">jim</div></body></html>=

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From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 11:23:03 -0600
References: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
 definitions=2020-12-12_05:2020-12-11,
 2020-12-12 signatures=0
 malwarescore=0
 phishscore=0 bulkscore=0 spamscore=0 clxscore=1015 mlxscore=0
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 scancount=1 engine=8.0.1-2006250000 definitions=main-2012120136
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Double sided tape with balls
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============6762417336581692833==
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--Apple-Mail-9ED20586-9908-4540-8373-01E8A72C7BAD
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Tim,

If any tape will hold it, 3m VHB tape will. I=E2=80=99ve used it to put 10=E2=
=80=99x12=E2=80=99 heavy vinyl banners up with tape only on the top. No prob=
lems at all.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Dec 12, 2020, at 11:15 AM, Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:

=EF=BB=BF
Hey all,=20

We live in a 1903 craftsman in WI that either has original windows or total c=
rap bucket replacements. Winter has finally arrived and I need to plastic al=
l the windows again. Last winter we adopted a couple Maine Coons that destro=
yed the plastic I put up. In order to stop that, I bought some of these (oth=
er plexiglass options were stupid expensive with price gouging asshats takin=
g advantage of the pandemic).=20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=3Dppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o0=
0_s00?ie=3DUTF8&psc=3D1

I do not want to drill into the original and unpainted wood to hang these wi=
th hooks.=20

Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that can h=
andle the weight of this plastic.=20

thanks
tim=20
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve

as@icloud.com


--Apple-Mail-9ED20586-9908-4540-8373-01E8A72C7BAD
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Tim,<div><br></div><div>If any tape will ho=
ld it, 3m VHB tape will. I=E2=80=99ve used it to put 10=E2=80=99x12=E2=80=99=
 heavy vinyl banners up with tape only on the top. No problems at all.&nbsp;=
</div><div><br></div><div>Peace,</div><div>Pat<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Pat H=
orne&nbsp;<div>We support Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Dec 12, 2020, at 11:15 AM, Tim . &lt;tims_datsun_stuff@=
outlook.com&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF

<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1=
">



<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Hey all,&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
We live in a 1903 craftsman in WI that either has original windows or total c=
rap bucket replacements. Winter has finally arrived and I need to plastic al=
l the windows again. Last winter we adopted a couple Maine Coons that destro=
yed the plastic I put up. In
 order to stop that, I bought some of these (other plexiglass options were s=
tupid expensive with price gouging asshats taking advantage of the pandemic)=
.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=3Dppx_yo_dt_b_as=
in_title_o00_s00?ie=3DUTF8&amp;psc=3D1" id=3D"LPlnk597359">https://www.amazo=
n.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=3Dppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=3DUTF8&a=
mp;psc=3D1</a></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I do not want to drill into the original and unpainted wood to hang these wi=
th hooks.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that can h=
andle the weight of this plastic.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
tim&nbsp;</div>


<span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></span=
><br><span>Shop-talk@autox.team.net</span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.=
net/donate.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span=
><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.tea=
m.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://au=
tox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com</span><br><span=
></span><br></div></div></body></html>=

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 12 10:44:57 2020
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
From: Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 12:41:49 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:78.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/78.5.1
Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Double sided tape with balls
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============5969174050834200816==
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As has been mentioned, anything with a strong bond may cause damage when 
you try to remove the plastic. How about velcro? There are various 
grades of strength of both the bond & the velcro itself. The plastic 
might then be re-usable (if you can keep the cats away from it).

-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


On 12/12/2020 12:14 PM, Tim . wrote:
> Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that 
> can handle the weight of this plastic. 


--------------24F0257E8AADEE30BC5C6366
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
      charset=windows-1252">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>As has been mentioned, anything with a strong bond may cause
      damage when you try to remove the plastic. How about velcro? There
      are various grades of strength of both the bond &amp; the velcro
      itself. The plastic might then be re-usable (if you can keep the
      cats away from it). <br>
    </p>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC</pre>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/12/2020 12:14 PM, Tim . wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <style type="text/css" style="display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}</style>Looking
      for double sided tape options that someone may know about that can
      handle the weight of this plastic. </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

--------------24F0257E8AADEE30BC5C6366--

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 12 12:32:21 2020
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From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 13:31:28 -0600
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Double sided tape with balls
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7543767511364298326==

--00000000000048af3705b6497575

A recent trip to Home Despot for a similar search led me to discover there
are a lot of good options out there.  There were about 6 different brands,
and each had several options for strength.  I chose a 35lb rated tape to
hold a switch pod to the dash of my truck.  SO far it has worked great.
The variety I ended up using was 3M brand, but I have also heard good
things about the similar product form Gorilla brand.

On Sat, Dec 12, 2020 at 11:15 AM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> We live in a 1903 craftsman in WI that either has original windows or
> total crap bucket replacements. Winter has finally arrived and I need to
> plastic all the windows again. Last winter we adopted a couple Maine Coons
> that destroyed the plastic I put up. In order to stop that, I bought some
> of these (other plexiglass options were stupid expensive with price gouging
> asshats taking advantage of the pandemic).
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
> I do not want to drill into the original and unpainted wood to hang these
> with hooks.
>
> Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that can
> handle the weight of this plastic.
>
> thanks
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>

-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

--00000000000048af3705b6497575
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">A recent trip to Home Despot for a similar search led me t=
o discover there are a lot of good options out there.=C2=A0 There were abou=
t 6 different brands, and each had several options for strength.=C2=A0 I ch=
ose a 35lb rated tape to hold a switch pod to the dash of my truck.=C2=A0 S=
O far it has worked great.=C2=A0 The variety I ended up using was 3M brand,=
 but I have also heard good things about the similar product form Gorilla b=
rand.<br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gma=
il_attr">On Sat, Dec 12, 2020 at 11:15 AM Tim . &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_=
datsun_stuff@outlook.com">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><=
/div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bo=
rder-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">




<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Hey all,=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
We live in a 1903 craftsman in WI that either has original windows or total=
 crap bucket replacements. Winter has finally arrived and I need to plastic=
 all the windows again. Last winter we adopted a couple Maine Coons that de=
stroyed the plastic I put up. In
 order to stop that, I bought some of these (other plexiglass options were =
stupid expensive with price gouging asshats taking advantage of the pandemi=
c).=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<a href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=3Dppx_yo_dt_b_a=
sin_title_o00_s00?ie=3DUTF8&amp;psc=3D1" id=3D"gmail-m_626023114808752999LP=
lnk597359" target=3D"_blank">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/r=
ef=3Dppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=3DUTF8&amp;psc=3D1</a></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
I do not want to drill into the original and unpainted wood to hang these w=
ith hooks.=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that can =
handle the weight of this plastic.=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
tim=C2=A0</div>
</div>

_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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style when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Bro=
wn=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 12 13:06:13 2020
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 15:05:39 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629CB3DB9C22AC3B6F6B97EB4C90@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CANuE7YCzz6n5Uqdq6fMAjYyJ15WV-fMhrZk_ifVifyDzx+f3Kg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Double sided tape with balls
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============0123382041321638266==
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	charset=us-ascii

I keep seeing ads for various brands of Nano tape that might be perfect =
for your application.  There are multiple brands and varieties of tape =
available: =
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3Dalien+tape&crid=3DP8XNUBSDYBON&sprefix=3Dalie=
n%2Caps%2C176&ref=3Dnb_sb_ss_ts-a-p_4_5 =
<https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3Dalien+tape&crid=3DP8XNUBSDYBON&sprefix=3Dali=
en,aps,176&ref=3Dnb_sb_ss_ts-a-p_4_5>

But, I have absolutely no experience with it.  It is just one of those =
things I have filed away in the back of my brain in case I ever need it =
and it occurs to me that it might work for your application.=20

Jim

> On Sat, Dec 12, 2020 at 11:15 AM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com =
> Hey all,=20
>=20
> We live in a 1903 craftsman in WI that either has original windows or =
total crap bucket replacements. Winter has finally arrived and I need to =
plastic all the windows again. Last winter we adopted a couple Maine =
Coons that destroyed the plastic I put up. In order to stop that, I =
bought some of these (other plexiglass options were stupid expensive =
with price gouging asshats taking advantage of the pandemic).=20
>=20
> =
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=3Dppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_=
o00_s00?ie=3DUTF8&psc=3D1 =
<https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=3Dppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title=
_o00_s00?ie=3DUTF8&psc=3D1>
>=20
> I do not want to drill into the original and unpainted wood to hang =
these with hooks.=20
>=20
> Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that =
can handle the weight of this plastic.=20
>=20
> thanks
> tim=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk> http://autox.team.net/archive =
<http://autox.team.net/archive>
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com>
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> =3D Never offend people with style when you   =3D
> =3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =3D
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@gmail.com
>=20


--Apple-Mail=_F6516187-A048-4EA2-A540-BCBB237EDC29
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=us-ascii

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I =
keep seeing ads for various brands of Nano tape that might be perfect =
for your application. &nbsp;There are multiple brands and varieties of =
tape available:&nbsp;<a =
href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3Dalien+tape&amp;crid=3DP8XNUBSDYBON&am=
p;sprefix=3Dalien,aps,176&amp;ref=3Dnb_sb_ss_ts-a-p_4_5" =
class=3D"">https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3Dalien+tape&amp;crid=3DP8XNUBSDYBON=
&amp;sprefix=3Dalien%2Caps%2C176&amp;ref=3Dnb_sb_ss_ts-a-p_4_5</a><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">But, I have absolutely =
<u class=3D"">no</u> experience with it. &nbsp;It is just one of those =
things I have filed away in the back of my brain in case I ever need it =
and it occurs to me that it might work for your =
application.&nbsp;</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Jim<br class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite"=
 class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Sat, Dec 12, 2020 at 11:15 AM Tim . =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com" =
class=3D"">tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div><div =
class=3D""><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid =
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">




<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;" class=3D"">
Hey all,&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;" class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;" class=3D"">
We live in a 1903 craftsman in WI that either has original windows or =
total crap bucket replacements. Winter has finally arrived and I need to =
plastic all the windows again. Last winter we adopted a couple Maine =
Coons that destroyed the plastic I put up. In
 order to stop that, I bought some of these (other plexiglass options =
were stupid expensive with price gouging asshats taking advantage of the =
pandemic).&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;" class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;" class=3D"">
<a =
href=3D"https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=3Dppx_yo_dt_b_asi=
n_title_o00_s00?ie=3DUTF8&amp;psc=3D1" =
id=3D"gmail-m_626023114808752999LPlnk597359" target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QTGHCFY/ref=3Dppx_yo_dt_b_=
asin_title_o00_s00?ie=3DUTF8&amp;psc=3D1</a></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;" class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;" class=3D"">
I do not want to drill into the original and unpainted wood to hang =
these with hooks.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;" class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;" class=3D"">
Looking for double sided tape options that someone may know about that =
can handle the weight of this plastic.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;" class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;" class=3D"">
thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: =
12pt;" class=3D"">
tim&nbsp;</div>
</div>

_______________________________________________<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">
target=3D"_blank" class=3D"">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br =
class=3D"">
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" =
rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank" class=3D"">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br =
class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com"=
 rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.c=
om</a><br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all" class=3D""><br class=3D"">-- <br =
class=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"gmail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br class=3D"">=3D =
Never offend people with style when you&nbsp;&nbsp; =3D<br class=3D"">=3D =
can offend with substance --- Sam Brown&nbsp; =3D<br =
class=3D"">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</div>
_______________________________________________<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">Donate: =
&nbsp;$12.96<br class=3D"">Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine@gmail.com<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></body></html>=

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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============0123382041321638266==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 12 15:03:48 2020
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 [73.253.103.15]) (Authenticated sender: jamesf@groupwbench.org)
 by relay4-d.mail.gandi.net (Postfix) with ESMTPSA id 3A93BE0002;
 Sat, 12 Dec 2020 22:03:14 +0000 (UTC)
From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 17:03:12 -0500
To: Jimmie Mayfield <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org>
References: <DFE739C8-B520-4FD2-9645-EDFA4E2636BE@groupwbench.org>
 <b04a747b-3a17-ba48-1585-81a778189166@sackheads.org>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


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I would have bet a case of beer the boiling water wouldn't work, because =
it would be too cool before it reached the grease attached to a giant =
cast iron tee, and also it wouldn't get splashed onto enough grease to =
melt it. However, a few gallons of hot sink water followed by a gallon =
of boiling water, all while plunging furiously, did absolutely nothing =
at first, but then a few hours later there was no gurgling from the tub =
and it's been silent for a few days.=20

I'll get some of that bacteria/enzyme stuff as preventative maintenance.=20=


The scope sounds like a great idea but the only access I have is from =
the roof and it's about 12 feet from vent to to sink entry point. If =
there's a dry day I'll drop a rock on a string down there and see what =
happens.=20

Thanks all!

jim

> On Dec 7, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Jimmie Mayfield =
<mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org> wrote:
>=20
> If it's grease build-up, you might try periodically pouring a gallon =
or two of boiling water down the kitchen sink.
>=20
> You might consider buying one of those cheap USB endoscopes from =
Amazon or Ebay.  I bought one for about $15 on Prime Day a couple years =
ago.  The camera quality is pretty bad but they're pretty long...mine is =
about 15 feet.  You could snake it down your kitchen drain clean-out and =
see for yourself what's going on inside your pipes.
>=20
>=20
> On 12/7/20 08:25, Jim Franklin wrote:
>> Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...
>>=20
>> My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and =
vent. When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The =
toilet and tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, using =
an oddly specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees =
apart. The tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber =
snake the vent from the roof, he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last =
week it started again.
>>=20
>> My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the =
highest item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, not =
a sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T when the =
flow hits the back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of "stuff" =
just above the T entry, sealing off any venting. I can't tell if the =
sink is also being used as the toilet's vent because there are too many =
walls in the way to hear what's happening.
>>=20
>> My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and =
sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
>>=20
>> Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely put =
oils down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with Dawn to =
emulsify it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in =
the roof vent.
>>=20
>> thanks,
>> jim
>> _______________________________________________
>>=20
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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--Apple-Mail=_0B3BECC2-F233-4454-A7A2-D43A1ABFEE4B
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=us-ascii

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I =
would have bet a case of beer the boiling water wouldn't work, because =
it would be too cool before it reached the grease attached to a giant =
cast iron tee, and also it wouldn't get splashed onto enough grease to =
melt it. However, a few gallons of hot sink water followed by a gallon =
of boiling water, all while plunging furiously, did absolutely nothing =
at first, but then a few hours later there was no gurgling from the tub =
and it's been silent for a few days.&nbsp;<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I'll get some of that bacteria/enzyme =
stuff as preventative maintenance.&nbsp;</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">The scope sounds like a great idea but =
the only access I have is from the roof and it's about 12 feet from vent =
to to sink entry point. If there's a dry day I'll drop a rock on a =
string down there and see what happens.&nbsp;</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Thanks all!</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">jim<br class=3D""><div><br =
class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Dec =
7, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Jimmie Mayfield &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org" =
class=3D"">mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><span =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: =
normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none; float: none; =
display: inline !important;" class=3D"">If it's grease build-up, you =
might try periodically pouring a gallon or two of boiling water down the =
kitchen sink.</span><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none;" class=3D""><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none;" class=3D""><span style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none; float: none; display: inline !important;" class=3D"">You might =
consider buying one of those cheap USB endoscopes from Amazon or =
Ebay.&nbsp; I bought one for about $15 on Prime Day a couple years =
ago.&nbsp; The camera quality is pretty bad but they're pretty =
long...mine is about 15 feet.&nbsp; You could snake it down your kitchen =
drain clean-out and see for yourself what's going on inside your =
pipes.</span><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none;" class=3D""><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none;" class=3D""><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none;" class=3D""><span style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: =
Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: =
normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none; float: none; display: inline !important;" class=3D"">On 12/7/20 =
08:25, Jim Franklin wrote:</span><br style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); =
font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none;" class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" =
style=3D"font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: =
none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none;" class=3D"">Maybe some of you have an innovative =
solution...<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">My house has a single cast iron =
soil stack that does both drain and vent. When I flush the toilet, it =
sucks air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub enter the stack =
separately, but at the same height, using an oddly specific T with a 4" =
toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45 degrees apart. The tub does not have =
its own vent. 2 years ago I had a plumber snake the vent from the roof, =
he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started again.<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee =
height, so it's the highest item on the stack. My thought is, because =
it's a straight T, not a sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying =
inside the T when the flow hits the back of the T, and eventually =
forming a cap of "stuff" just above the T entry, sealing off any =
venting. I can't tell if the sink is also being used as the toilet's =
vent because there are too many walls in the way to hear what's =
happening.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">My other thought is that the =
"stuff" is growing like a mold, and sealing it off. Does stuff grow in =
drains?<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Any thoughts on what it might be, =
and how to prevent it? I rarely put oils down the drain, and when I do =
they are cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify it. There isn't enough =
canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof vent.<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">thanks,<br class=3D"">jim<br =
class=3D"">_______________________________________________<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">Donate: =
&nbsp;$12.96<br class=3D"">Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage:<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><a =
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lk@sackheads.org</a><br class=3D""><br class=3D""></blockquote><br =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
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display: inline !important;" =
class=3D"">_______________________________________________</span><br =
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14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: =
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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Soil stack venting issue
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Glad it seemed to work for you. Growing up, mom would pour a couple pots 
of boiling water down the kitchen drain every few weeks.  I can't say it 
was 100% effective since I remember several times having to help dad 
disassemble the plumbing to clean out the pipes on the driveway.  But I 
guess when done regularly it might help prevent large grease deposits 
from forming near the sink.


On 12/12/20 5:03 PM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> I would have bet a case of beer the boiling water wouldn't work, 
> because it would be too cool before it reached the grease attached to 
> a giant cast iron tee, and also it wouldn't get splashed onto enough 
> grease to melt it. However, a few gallons of hot sink water followed 
> by a gallon of boiling water, all while plunging furiously, did 
> absolutely nothing at first, but then a few hours later there was no 
> gurgling from the tub and it's been silent for a few days.
>
> I'll get some of that bacteria/enzyme stuff as preventative maintenance.
>
> The scope sounds like a great idea but the only access I have is from 
> the roof and it's about 12 feet from vent to to sink entry point. If 
> there's a dry day I'll drop a rock on a string down there and see what 
> happens.
>
> Thanks all!
>
> jim
>
>> On Dec 7, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Jimmie Mayfield 
>> <mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org 
>>
>> If it's grease build-up, you might try periodically pouring a gallon 
>> or two of boiling water down the kitchen sink.
>>
>> You might consider buying one of those cheap USB endoscopes from 
>> Amazon or Ebay.  I bought one for about $15 on Prime Day a couple 
>> years ago.  The camera quality is pretty bad but they're pretty 
>> long...mine is about 15 feet.  You could snake it down your kitchen 
>> drain clean-out and see for yourself what's going on inside your pipes.
>>
>>
>> On 12/7/20 08:25, Jim Franklin wrote:
>>> Maybe some of you have an innovative solution...
>>>
>>> My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does both drain and 
>>> vent. When I flush the toilet, it sucks air from the tub drain. The 
>>> toilet and tub enter the stack separately, but at the same height, 
>>> using an oddly specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 
>>> 45 degrees apart. The tub does not have its own vent. 2 years ago I 
>>> had a plumber snake the vent from the roof, he found "stuff", and it 
>>> was fixed. Last week it started again.
>>>
>>> My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so it's the 
>>> highest item on the stack. My thought is, because it's a straight T, 
>>> not a sanitary T, stuff from the sink is solidifying inside the T 
>>> when the flow hits the back of the T, and eventually forming a cap 
>>> of "stuff" just above the T entry, sealing off any venting. I can't 
>>> tell if the sink is also being used as the toilet's vent because 
>>> there are too many walls in the way to hear what's happening.
>>>
>>> My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a mold, and 
>>> sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains?
>>>
>>> Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it? I rarely 
>>> put oils down the drain, and when I do they are cold and mixed with 
>>> Dawn to emulsify it. There isn't enough canopy for leaves or 
>>> squirrels to get in the roof vent.
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>> jim
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Glad it seemed to work for you. 
      Growing up, mom would pour a couple pots of boiling water down the
      kitchen drain every few weeks.  I can't say it was 100% effective
      since I remember several times having to help dad disassemble the
      plumbing to clean out the pipes on the driveway.  But I guess when
      done regularly it might help prevent large grease deposits from
      forming near the sink.<br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/12/20 5:03 PM, Jim Franklin
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:CC411ECA-10CB-48D6-A975-AF762B285E91@groupwbench.org">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      I would have bet a case of beer the boiling water wouldn't work,
      because it would be too cool before it reached the grease attached
      to a giant cast iron tee, and also it wouldn't get splashed onto
      enough grease to melt it. However, a few gallons of hot sink water
      followed by a gallon of boiling water, all while plunging
      furiously, did absolutely nothing at first, but then a few hours
      later there was no gurgling from the tub and it's been silent for
      a few days. 
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">I'll get some of that bacteria/enzyme stuff as
        preventative maintenance. </div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">The scope sounds like a great idea but the only
        access I have is from the roof and it's about 12 feet from vent
        to to sink entry point. If there's a dry day I'll drop a rock on
        a string down there and see what happens. </div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">Thanks all!</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">jim<br class="">
        <div><br class="">
          <blockquote type="cite" class="">
            <div class="">On Dec 7, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Jimmie Mayfield
              &lt;<a href="mailto:mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org"
                class="" moz-do-not-send="true">mayfield+shoptalk@sackheads.org</a>&gt;
              wrote:</div>
            <br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
            <div class=""><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0);
                font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style:
                normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal;
                letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent:
                0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal;
                word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
                text-decoration: none; float: none; display: inline
                !important;" class="">If it's grease build-up, you might
                try periodically pouring a gallon or two of boiling
                water down the kitchen sink.</span><br
                style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
                Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal;
                font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal;
                letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent:
                0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal;
                word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
                text-decoration: none;" class="">
              <br style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
                Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal;
                font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal;
                letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent:
                0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal;
                word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
                text-decoration: none;" class="">
              <span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
                Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal;
                font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal;
                letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent:
                0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal;
                word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
                text-decoration: none; float: none; display: inline
                !important;" class="">You might consider buying one of
                those cheap USB endoscopes from Amazon or Ebay.  I
                bought one for about $15 on Prime Day a couple years
                ago.  The camera quality is pretty bad but they're
                pretty long...mine is about 15 feet.  You could snake it
                down your kitchen drain clean-out and see for yourself
                what's going on inside your pipes.</span><br
                style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
                Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal;
                font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal;
                letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent:
                0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal;
                word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
                text-decoration: none;" class="">
              <br style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
                Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal;
                font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal;
                letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent:
                0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal;
                word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
                text-decoration: none;" class="">
              <br style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
                Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal;
                font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal;
                letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent:
                0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal;
                word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
                text-decoration: none;" class="">
              <span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
                Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal;
                font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal;
                letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent:
                0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal;
                word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
                text-decoration: none; float: none; display: inline
                !important;" class="">On 12/7/20 08:25, Jim Franklin
                wrote:</span><br style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0);
                font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style:
                normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal;
                letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent:
                0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal;
                word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
                text-decoration: none;" class="">
              <blockquote type="cite" style="font-family: Helvetica;
                font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps:
                normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal;
                orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px;
                text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto;
                word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;
                -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;"
                class="">Maybe some of you have an innovative
                solution...<br class="">
                <br class="">
                My house has a single cast iron soil stack that does
                both drain and vent. When I flush the toilet, it sucks
                air from the tub drain. The toilet and tub enter the
                stack separately, but at the same height, using an oddly
                specific T with a 4" toilet and a 2" tub inlet about 45
                degrees apart. The tub does not have its own vent. 2
                years ago I had a plumber snake the vent from the roof,
                he found "stuff", and it was fixed. Last week it started
                again.<br class="">
                <br class="">
                My kitchen sink T's into the stack at knee height, so
                it's the highest item on the stack. My thought is,
                because it's a straight T, not a sanitary T, stuff from
                the sink is solidifying inside the T when the flow hits
                the back of the T, and eventually forming a cap of
                "stuff" just above the T entry, sealing off any venting.
                I can't tell if the sink is also being used as the
                toilet's vent because there are too many walls in the
                way to hear what's happening.<br class="">
                <br class="">
                My other thought is that the "stuff" is growing like a
                mold, and sealing it off. Does stuff grow in drains?<br
                  class="">
                <br class="">
                Any thoughts on what it might be, and how to prevent it?
                I rarely put oils down the drain, and when I do they are
                cold and mixed with Dawn to emulsify it. There isn't
                enough canopy for leaves or squirrels to get in the roof
                vent.<br class="">
                <br class="">
                thanks,<br class="">
                jim<br class="">
                _______________________________________________<br
                  class="">
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From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 17:24:13 +0000
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Question about a belt tensioner
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Hello,

I'm looking at a Kent Moore ST-1293 belt tensioner for use on a ribbed 
belt on a Cummins 4BT. It's Cummins recommended tool and I wondered if 
anyone had experience/opinions about it. Also whether it's use could be 
extended to timing belts.

Thanks,

Nick Brearley


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 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 12:51:48 -0500
 12/17/2020 12:51:48 PM,
 Serialize complete at 12/17/2020 12:51:48 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
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OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing 
snow.  Is there any 'method' to putting them on?  How many per tire? 
Patterns?  The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow 
already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite. 
 So I figured some studs would be perfect.

Any ideas?

Thanks.


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
--=_alternative 0062209985258641_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero
turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow. &nbsp;Is there any 'method' to
putting them on? &nbsp;How many per tire? &nbsp;Patterns? &nbsp;The tires
are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already, but once
the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite. &nbsp;So I figured
some studs would be perfect.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Any ideas?</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Thanks.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson <br>
-Who is John Galt?</font>
--=_alternative 0062209985258641_=--

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
From: Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:16:28 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
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A gazillion years ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to put 
studded snow tires on my daily driver MGA. (I lived in Massachusetts 
then.) Tire stores were not allowed to sell studded snow tires. But they 
could sell snow tires and a package of studs for the DIY'er to install. 
The tires had a series of holes molded into the tread. The package of 
studs - they looked like solid rivets - came with an installation tool 
sort of like a screwdriver handle. Put the stud into the end of the 
tool, press the head of the stud into the holes molded into the tread 
and push until they were seated. It was a lot of work but I was young 
and hearty. As I recall, the studs had to be installed before the tires 
were driven on - I assume that otherwise the holes might get filled with 
dirt (a new invention) preventing the studs from being fully seated.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 12/17/2020 12:51 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm 
> plowing snow.  Is there any 'method' to putting them on?  How many per 
> tire?  Patterns?  The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good 
> in the snow already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they 
> can't get any bite.  So I figured some studs would be perfect.


--------------DD3AD4197C8D9FF354AB6190
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
      charset=windows-1252">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>A gazillion years ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to
      put studded snow tires on my daily driver MGA. (I lived in
      Massachusetts then.) Tire stores were not allowed to sell studded
      snow tires. But they could sell snow tires and a package of studs
      for the DIY'er to install. The tires had a series of holes molded
      into the tread. The package of studs - they looked like solid
      rivets - came with an installation tool sort of like a screwdriver
      handle. Put the stud into the end of the tool, press the head of
      the stud into the holes molded into the tread and push until they
      were seated. It was a lot of work but I was young and hearty. As I
      recall, the studs had to be installed before the tires were driven
      on - I assume that otherwise the holes might get filled with dirt
      (a new invention) preventing the studs from being fully seated. <br>
    </p>
    Eric Russell<br>
    Mebane, NC <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/17/2020 12:51 PM,
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">OK, I'm looking to put studs on
        my zero
        turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow.  Is there any 'method'
        to
        putting them on?  How many per tire?  Patterns?  The tires
        are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already,
        but once
        the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite.  So I
        figured
        some studs would be perfect.</font>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============1036625230942463741==--

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From: Phil Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 12:23:31 -0600
References: <474a4c9d-74f7-ad09-90a9-55418970b0a7@mebtel.net>
To: Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============7373429694302365094==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


--Apple-Mail-656B0CBD-7FE2-467F-9253-3B14D9C22A4F
	charset=utf-8
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Buy chains

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 17, 2020, at 12:17 PM, Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> A gazillion years ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to put studd=
ed snow tires on my daily driver MGA. (I lived in Massachusetts then.) Tire s=
tores were not allowed to sell studded snow tires. But they could sell snow t=
ires and a package of studs for the DIY'er to install. The tires had a serie=
s of holes molded into the tread. The package of studs - they looked like so=
lid rivets - came with an installation tool sort of like a screwdriver handl=
e. Put the stud into the end of the tool, press the head of the stud into th=
e holes molded into the tread and push until they were seated. It was a lot o=
f work but I was young and hearty. As I recall, the studs had to be installe=
d before the tires were driven on - I assume that otherwise the holes might g=
et filled with dirt (a new invention) preventing the studs from being fully s=
eated.=20
>=20
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC=20
>=20
> On 12/17/2020 12:51 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing=
 snow.  Is there any 'method' to putting them on?  How many per tire?  Patte=
rns?  The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already=
, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite.  So I fi=
gured some studs would be perfect.=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethie=
r7@gmail.com
>=20

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	charset=utf-8
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Buy chains<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent fro=
m my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Dec 17, 2=
020, at 12:17 PM, Eric Russell &lt;ejrussell@mebtel.net&gt; wrote:<br><br></=
blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
 =20
    <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html;
      charset=3Dwindows-1252">
 =20
 =20
    <p>A gazillion years ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to
      put studded snow tires on my daily driver MGA. (I lived in
      Massachusetts then.) Tire stores were not allowed to sell studded
      snow tires. But they could sell snow tires and a package of studs
      for the DIY'er to install. The tires had a series of holes molded
      into the tread. The package of studs - they looked like solid
      rivets - came with an installation tool sort of like a screwdriver
      handle. Put the stud into the end of the tool, press the head of
      the stud into the holes molded into the tread and push until they
      were seated. It was a lot of work but I was young and hearty. As I
      recall, the studs had to be installed before the tires were driven
      on - I assume that otherwise the holes might get filled with dirt
      (a new invention) preventing the studs from being fully seated. <br>
    </p>
    Eric Russell<br>
    Mebane, NC <br>
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix"><br>
    </div>
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 12/17/2020 12:51 PM,
      <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:eric@megageek.com=
">eric@megageek.com</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite" cite=3D"mid:OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006=
166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com">
      <meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html;
        charset=3Dwindows-1252">
      <font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">OK, I'm looking to put studs on
        my zero
        turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow. &nbsp;Is there any 'method'
        to
        putting them on? &nbsp;How many per tire? &nbsp;Patterns? &nbsp;The t=
ires
        are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already,
        but once
        the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite. &nbsp;So I
        figured
        some studs would be perfect.</font>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
 =20

<span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></span=
><br><span>Shop-talk@autox.team.net</span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.=
net/donate.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</span=
><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.tea=
m.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://au=
tox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pethier7@gmail.com</span><br><span></=
span><br></div></blockquote></body></html>=

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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References: <474a4c9d-74f7-ad09-90a9-55418970b0a7@mebtel.net>
 <6B406607-A3BC-4158-A878-255638581F89@gmail.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:31:36 -0500
 12/17/2020 01:31:37 PM,
 Serialize complete at 12/17/2020 01:31:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============2600059421950548839==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 0065C59B85258641_=

Phil writes...

>Buy chains

Why would chains be better?  For the past 20 some years, I've used chains 
on that tractor.  They are loud, they bounce the tractor everywhere, they 
break and come off all the time.

I want to try studs and I can't find any real negatives for them.  Why 
would chains be better?

Thanks.


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
--=_alternative 0065C59B85258641_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">Phil writes...</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">&gt;</font><font size=3>Buy chains</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Why would chains be better? &nbsp;For
the past 20 some years, I've used chains on that tractor. &nbsp;They are
loud, they bounce the tractor everywhere, they break and come off all the
time.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I want to try studs and I can't find
any real negatives for them. &nbsp;Why would chains be better?</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Thanks.</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson <br>
-Who is John Galt?</font>
--=_alternative 0065C59B85258641_=--

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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:34:46 -0500
References: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Anyone ever use these?
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
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My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying to f=
ix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've eve=
r seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My first try faile=
d so I wonder if I should use something like this....

https://www.google.com/search?q=3Deasy+solder+wire+connectors&rlz=3D1C1KDEC=
_enUS921US921&oq=3Deas&aqs=3Dchrome.1.69i57j35i39i457j0i67l4j69i65l2.5450j0=
j7&sourceid=3Dchrome&ie=3DUTF-8#kpvalbx=3D_7ejbX6v6M9GF9PwPvPqG0As8

thoughts?
thanks
tim

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My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying to f=
ix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've eve=
r seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My first try faile=
d so I wonder if I should use something
 like this....</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
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<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<a href=3D"https://www.google.com/search?q=3Deasy+solder+wire+connectors&am=
p;rlz=3D1C1KDEC_enUS921US921&amp;oq=3Deas&amp;aqs=3Dchrome.1.69i57j35i39i45=
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<br>
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<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
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thoughts?</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
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thanks</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
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tim</div>
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============7322381613995699673==--

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To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>,
 Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
From: Arvid <arvidj999@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 18:15:32 -0600
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:68.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
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I used them multiple time to wire my trailer a few weeks ago.


They worked much better than I thought they would but I was using them on 18 and 16 gauge stranded wire. I used a heat gun to melt the solder and shrink the tubing. After that I wiped several layers of "liquid electrical tape" and then silicone tape over them to ensure they would stay dry and to help remove the physical load of the wire in the splice. The "bundle" was then firmly attached to the trailer frame to avoid any movement.


"Computer power cord" is a little vague so I'm not sure how it would work out. My concerns would be related to the durability of the connection after it has been completed, especially if there will be any flex or movement of the wires after the connection is made.


Arvid



On 12/17/20 5:33 PM, Tim . wrote:
> My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying to fix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've ever seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My first try failed so I wonder if I should use something like this....
>
> https://www.google.com/search?q=easy+solder+wire+connectors&rlz=1C1KDEC_enUS921US921&oq=eas&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39i457j0i67l4j69i65l2.5450j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_7ejbX6v6M9GF9PwPvPqG0As8
>
> thoughts?
> thanks
> tim
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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    <p>I used them multiple time to wire my trailer a few weeks ago.</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p>They worked much better than I thought they would but I was using
      them on 18 and 16 gauge stranded wire. I used a heat gun to melt
      the solder and shrink the tubing. After that I wiped several
      layers of "liquid electrical tape" and then silicone tape over
      them to ensure they would stay dry and to help remove the physical
      load of the wire in the splice. The "bundle" was then firmly
      attached to the trailer frame to avoid any movement.<br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p>"Computer power cord" is a little vague so I'm not sure how it
      would work out. My concerns would be related to the durability of
      the connection after it has been completed, especially if there
      will be any flex or movement of the wires after the connection is
      made.</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p>Arvid<br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/17/20 5:33 PM, Tim . wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <style type="text/css" style="display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} </style>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when
        trying to fix a computer power cord, of the three wires is
        thinner gauge than I've ever seen....looks to be no more than 10
        strands of copper. My first try failed so I wonder if I should
        use something like this....</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <a
href="https://www.google.com/search?q=easy+solder+wire+connectors&amp;rlz=1C1KDEC_enUS921US921&amp;oq=eas&amp;aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39i457j0i67l4j69i65l2.5450j0j7&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_7ejbX6v6M9GF9PwPvPqG0As8"
          id="LPlnk778357" moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.google.com/search?q=easy+solder+wire+connectors&amp;rlz=1C1KDEC_enUS921US921&amp;oq=eas&amp;aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39i457j0i67l4j69i65l2.5450j0j7&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_7ejbX6v6M9GF9PwPvPqG0As8</a><br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        thoughts?</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        thanks</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        tim</div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 17 18:00:49 2020
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From: "Doug Armstrong" <darmstrong@nexicom.net>
To: "'Tom Coradeschi'" <tjcora@icloud.com>,
 "'shop-talk'" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
 <8CB85EA6-2AF9-4253-82AF-FA0454D8D6A3@icloud.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 19:59:25 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have an old John Deere lawn tractor that had turf tires on the rear.  Swapped them for Carlisle All Trail ATV Tires that I had loaded with winter windshield washer fluid.

They work well on flat asphalt.  I occasionally have problems on slopes when icy.  

Doug Armstrong  


-----Original Message-----
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tom Coradeschi
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2020 1:35 PM
To: shop-talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs

Ah, studs. Back In The Day (late 70 s/early 80 s), we studded a lot of snow tires. Had a nifty pneumatic tool which made it a pretty straightforward job.

That being said, unless the tires are  stud-ready , in that they have holes for you to insert the studs into, not sure how you d make that happen.

Maybe a set of tire chains?

 
Tom Coradeschi
tjcora@icloud.com


> On 17 Dec 2020, at 12:51 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> 
> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow.  Is there any 'method' to putting them on?  How many per tire?  Patterns?  The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite.  So I figured some studs would be perfect. 
> 
> Any ideas? 
> 
> Thanks. 
> 
> 
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a 
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your 
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson -Who is John 
> Galt?_______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  
> $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk 
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> 

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
From: Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 20:34:20 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:78.0) Gecko/20100101
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Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Are you sure they are actually copper?

-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


On 12/17/2020 6:33 PM, Tim . wrote:
> My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying 
> to fix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than 
> I've ever seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My 
> first try failed so I wonder if I should use something like this....


--------------E70AE56B6CAFA4ED3523870F
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    <p>Are you sure they are actually copper? <br>
    </p>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC </pre>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/17/2020 6:33 PM, Tim . wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
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      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when
        trying to fix a computer power cord, of the three wires is
        thinner gauge than I've ever seen....looks to be no more than 10
        strands of copper. My first try failed so I wonder if I should
        use something like this....</div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

--------------E70AE56B6CAFA4ED3523870F--

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
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	boundary="_000_DS7PR19MB4629AB7FF1B8926D83DCDE20B4C30DS7PR19MB4629namp_"

--_000_DS7PR19MB4629AB7FF1B8926D83DCDE20B4C30DS7PR19MB4629namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

"Are you sure they are actually copper?"

Do you mean the wires I am trying to solder? Um...yea...pretty sure they ar=
e copper.

Does HP make their power cables from something other than copper?


________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Eric Russel=
l <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2020 7:34 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?


Are you sure they are actually copper?

--
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


On 12/17/2020 6:33 PM, Tim . wrote:
My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying to f=
ix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've eve=
r seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My first try faile=
d so I wonder if I should use something like this....


--_000_DS7PR19MB4629AB7FF1B8926D83DCDE20B4C30DS7PR19MB4629namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
&quot;<span style=3D"font-family: &quot;Segoe UI&quot;, &quot;Segoe UI Web =
(West European)&quot;, &quot;Segoe UI&quot;, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemF=
ont, Roboto, &quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; color=
: rgb(0, 0, 0);">Are you sure they are actually copper?&quot;</span></div>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style=3D"font-size: 14px;"><br>
</span></div>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style=3D"font-size: 14px;">Do you=
 mean the wires I am trying to solder? Um...yea...pretty sure they are copp=
er.&nbsp;</span><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">
</div>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style=3D"font-size: 14px;"><br>
</span></div>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style=3D"font-size: 14px;">Does H=
P make their power cables from something other than copper?&nbsp;</span></d=
iv>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><br>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Eric Russell &lt;ejrussell@mebte=
l.net&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 17, 2020 7:34 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> shop-talk@autox.team.net &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<p style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;">Are you sure they are act=
ually copper?
<br>
</p>
<pre class=3D"x_moz-signature" cols=3D"72">-- =0A=
Eric Russell=0A=
Mebane, NC </pre>
<p style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;"><br>
</p>
<div class=3D"x_moz-cite-prefix">On 12/17/2020 6:33 PM, Tim . wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying to f=
ix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've eve=
r seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My first try faile=
d so I wonder if I should use something
 like this....</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============6262060374469850534==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 17 19:26:27 2020
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 21:25:36 -0500
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:78.0) Gecko/20100101
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Content-Language: en-US
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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On 12/17/2020 9:07 PM, Tim . wrote:

> "Are you sure they are actually copper?"
>
> Do you mean the wires I am trying to solder? Um...yea...pretty sure 
> they are copper.
>
> Does HP make their power cables from something other than copper?


Of course I have no idea what HP might use. But I have dealt with wires 
that ain't what they appear. If you scrape the wires with a knife blade 
do they still look like copper?

-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


--------------A98345A60E4E1F47650B09EB
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
      charset=windows-1252">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>On 12/17/2020 9:07 PM, Tim . wrote:<br>
    </p>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:DS7PR19MB4629AB7FF1B8926D83DCDE20B4C30@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <style type="text/css" style="display:none;">P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}</style>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        "<span style="font-family: &quot;Segoe UI&quot;, &quot;Segoe UI
          Web (West European)&quot;, &quot;Segoe UI&quot;,
          -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, Roboto, &quot;Helvetica
          Neue&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">Are
          you sure they are actually copper?"</span></div>
      <div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br>
        </span></div>
      <div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-size: 14px;">Do
          you mean the wires I am trying to solder? Um...yea...pretty
          sure they are copper. </span><br
          class="Apple-interchange-newline">
      </div>
      <div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br>
        </span></div>
      <div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-size: 14px;">Does
          HP make their power cables from something other than copper? <br>
        </span></div>
    </blockquote>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p>Of course I have no idea what HP might use. But I have dealt with
      wires that ain't what they appear. If you scrape the wires with a
      knife blade do they still look like copper? <br>
    </p>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC </pre>
  </body>
</html>

--------------A98345A60E4E1F47650B09EB--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
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hmmm...well, I can try that but they are so thin I'd guess that there won't=
 be much to scrape. I was able to strip the blue wires with my finger nail.=
......

________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Eric Russel=
l <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2020 8:25 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?


On 12/17/2020 9:07 PM, Tim . wrote:

"Are you sure they are actually copper?"

Do you mean the wires I am trying to solder? Um...yea...pretty sure they ar=
e copper.

Does HP make their power cables from something other than copper?


Of course I have no idea what HP might use. But I have dealt with wires tha=
t ain't what they appear. If you scrape the wires with a knife blade do the=
y still look like copper?

--
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

--_000_DS7PR19MB46296B822E04DCC5E040FA67B4C30DS7PR19MB4629namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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1">
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ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
hmmm...well, I can try that but they are so thin I'd guess that there won't=
 be much to scrape. I was able to strip the blue wires with my finger nail.=
......</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Eric Russell &lt;ejrussell@mebte=
l.net&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 17, 2020 8:25 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> shop-talk@autox.team.net &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<p style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;">On 12/17/2020 9:07 PM, Ti=
m . wrote:<br>
</p>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
&quot;<span style=3D"">Are you sure they are actually copper?&quot;</span><=
/div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0)"><span style=3D"font-size:14px"><br>
</span></div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0)"><span style=3D"font-size:14px">Do you mean =
the wires I am trying to solder? Um...yea...pretty sure they are copper.&nb=
sp;</span><br class=3D"x_Apple-interchange-newline">
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0)"><span style=3D"font-size:14px"><br>
</span></div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0)"><span style=3D"font-size:14px">Does HP make=
 their power cables from something other than copper?
<br>
</span></div>
</blockquote>
<p style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;"><br>
</p>
<p style=3D"margin-top: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px;">Of course I have no idea =
what HP might use. But I have dealt with wires that ain't what they appear.=
 If you scrape the wires with a knife blade do they still look like copper?
<br>
</p>
<pre class=3D"x_moz-signature" cols=3D"72">-- =0A=
Eric Russell=0A=
Mebane, NC </pre>
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--===============2613923638338159332==--

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To: eric@megageek.com, Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <474a4c9d-74f7-ad09-90a9-55418970b0a7@mebtel.net>
 <6B406607-A3BC-4158-A878-255638581F89@gmail.com>
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From: Arvid <arvidj999@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 20:39:17 -0600
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:68.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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I've had the opposite experience.

When I bought my JD X595 17 years ago I bought an additional set of lug type tires mounted on wheels and a set of chains. Deflated the tires, mounted the chains as tight as I could, inflated the tires. Chains were really snug on the tires. Used safety wire to ensure the loose ends were no longer loose ends. Take the wheels off every spring, on every fall. Significantly easier than taking the chains on and off the tires. Never had an issue. I am assuming the tires are about the same size as are on your zero-turn ... 26 x 12-12.

Guess I was just lucky.

Arvid

On 12/17/20 12:31 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Phil writes...
>
> >Buy chains
>
> Why would chains be better?  For the past 20 some years, I've used chains on that tractor.  They are loud, they bounce the tractor everywhere, they break and come off all the time.
>
> I want to try studs and I can't find any real negatives for them.  Why would chains be better?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/arvidj999@gmail.com
>

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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
      charset=windows-1252">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>I've had the opposite experience.</p>
    <p>When I bought my JD X595 17 years ago I bought an additional set
      of lug type tires mounted on wheels and a set of chains. Deflated
      the tires, mounted the chains as tight as I could, inflated the
      tires. Chains were really snug on the tires. Used safety wire to
      ensure the loose ends were no longer loose ends. Take the wheels
      off every spring, on every fall. Significantly easier than taking
      the chains on and off the tires. Never had an issue. I am assuming
      the tires are about the same size as are on your zero-turn ... <span
        style="color: rgb(32, 33, 36); font-size: 14px; font-style:
        normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps:
        normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align:
        left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
        normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
        background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-decoration-style:
        initial; text-decoration-color: initial; display: inline
        !important; float: none;">26 x 12-12.</span></p>
    <p><span style="color: rgb(32, 33, 36); font-size: 14px; font-style:
        normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps:
        normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align:
        left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
        normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
        background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-decoration-style:
        initial; text-decoration-color: initial; display: inline
        !important; float: none;">Guess I was just lucky.</span></p>
    <p>Arvid<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/17/20 12:31 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a>
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:OF7FDE4E35.4CFD3239-ON85258641.0065926C-85258641.0065C59D@mail.megageek.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Phil writes...</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">&gt;</font><font size="3">Buy
        chains</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Why would chains be better?  For
        the past 20 some years, I've used chains on that tractor.  They
        are
        loud, they bounce the tractor everywhere, they break and come
        off all the
        time.</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">I want to try studs and I can't
        find
        any real negatives for them.  Why would chains be better?</font>
      <br>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif">Thanks.</font>
      <br>
      <font size="2" face="sans-serif"><br>
        <br>
        "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
        rational
        being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory."
        Ralph
        Waldo Emerson <br>
        -Who is John Galt?</font>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>


</pre>
    </blockquote>
  </body>
</html>

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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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References: <DS7PR19MB4629352861700A4495D44BD0B4C40@DS7PR19MB4629.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 06:50:17 -0500
To: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>, 
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Dec 17, 2020 at 6:34 PM Tim . <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com> wrote:
>
> My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when trying to fix a computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've ever seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper.

Can you post a picture of the cord in question?  There may be other
solutions....
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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References: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 07:03:57 -0500
To: eric@megageek.com
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Forgive me for what I'm about to say, as I'm a Florida boy and have
only ever seen snow every few years, and just a couple of inches at
that.  Never had to shovel, never had to plow...never even saw a plow
until I was over 40 years old...

Reading Arvid's suggestion, could one make a set of solid steel wheels
with nubs welded on them?  It would be a rough ride, but it might work
and be cheap.

Can you dismount a tire and drive sheet metal screws through from
inside to outside?  THen use a tube and a heavy rubber belt to protect
the tube from the screw heads...  Maybe flat head screws would go in
enough to not need protection.

How about moving down south, where these things just don't exist?

When I was much younger, I worked with a guy from Colorado.  He was
the one that introduced me to the concept of studded tires.  He told
me that the studs take a set after a season of driving, and their
favorite thing was to go out on an evening after the last snowfall to
a dark road, and swap the rear tires from side to side.  Then, when
you did a burnout, the studs would catch and be ejected from the
tires, producing a brilliant arc of glowing sparks that could be seen
for miles across the mountains.  Sounds like great fun to me.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Thu, Dec 17, 2020 at 12:52 PM <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
>
> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow.  Is there any 'method' to putting them on?  How many per tire?  Patterns?  The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite.  So I figured some studs would be perfect.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
>
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
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c2hvcC10YWxrL21oYXJjQGF1dG94LnRlYW0ubmV0Cgo=

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Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 09:21:02 -0500
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
 LxmG7KUDIYneXIfKuTOK41nv63JDctnSMHW+wHwOtUeaEaPbA5wKFurk9vi7soz5o3GgIBNFmkukRKPRpRRSrbW6sNzt/VdUi9s=
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone ever use these?
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============1400261167831483192==
	boundary="=====================_1969278==.ALT"

--=====================_1969278==.ALT

At 06:33 PM 12/17/2020, you wrote:

 >My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when 
trying to fix a
 >computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've ever
 >seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My first try 
failed so I
 >wonder if I should use something like this....

 ><https://www.google.com/search?q=easy+solder+wire+connectors&rlz=1C1KDEC_enUS921US921&oq=eas&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39i457j0i67l4j69i65l2.5450j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_7ejbX6v6M9GF9PwPvPqG0As8>https://www.google.com/search?q=easy+solder+wire+connectors&rlz=1C1KDEC_enUS921US921&oq=eas&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39i457j0i67l4j69i65l2.5450j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_7ejbX6v6M9GF9PwPvPqG0As8

Tim,

I've used them on a buddy truck.  He was trying to add in a switch and an
additional aux. power outlet, ie. cigarette lighter.  Worked 
well.  At least my buddy
hasn't been back for me to fix it in 2 yrs.

I assume that if it is designed to connect 2 18gauge wires, that it 
can handle the
current that an 18gauge wire can handle.  You can get kits for many 
different sizes
of wire.  They are color coded for the wire size, and therefore, I 
assume, it's
current carrying capacity.  I don't see anything that actually gives 
a current rating
for them.

John



John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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<html>
<body>
<font size=3>At 06:33 PM 12/17/2020, you wrote:<br><br>
&gt;My soldering skills are ok on bigger gauge wires. However, when
trying to fix a<br>
&gt;computer power cord, of the three wires is thinner gauge than I've
ever <br>
&gt;seen....looks to be no more than 10 strands of copper. My first try
failed so I <br>
&gt;wonder if I should use something like this....<br><br>
&gt;<a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=easy+solder+wire+connectors&amp;rlz=1C1KDEC_enUS921US921&amp;oq=eas&amp;aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39i457j0i67l4j69i65l2.5450j0j7&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_7ejbX6v6M9GF9PwPvPqG0As8">
https://www.google.com/search?q=easy+solder+wire+connectors&amp;rlz=1C1KDEC_enUS921US921&amp;oq=eas&amp;aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39i457j0i67l4j69i65l2.5450j0j7&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_7ejbX6v6M9GF9PwPvPqG0As8</a>
<br><br>
Tim,<br><br>
I've used them on a buddy truck.&nbsp; He was trying to add in a switch
and an <br>
additional aux. power outlet, ie. cigarette lighter.&nbsp; Worked
well.&nbsp; At least my buddy<br>
hasn't been back for me to fix it in 2 yrs.&nbsp; <br><br>
I assume that if it is designed to connect 2 18gauge wires, that it can
handle the<br>
current that an 18gauge wire can handle.&nbsp; You can get kits for many
different sizes <br>
of wire.&nbsp; They are color coded for the wire size, and therefore, I
assume, it's <br>
current carrying capacity.&nbsp; I don't see anything that actually gives
a current rating<br>
for them.<br><br>
John<br><br>
<br>
</font><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
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<a href="#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width="1" height="1"> </a></div></body>
<br>
<div>John T. Blair&nbsp; WA4OHZ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; email:&nbsp;
jblair1948@cox.net</div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Phone:&nbsp; (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48
TR1800&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48 #4 Midget&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
77 Spitfire&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.team.net/morgan" EUDORA=AUTOURL>
www.team.net/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href="http://www.bricklin.org/" EUDORA=AUTOURL>www.bricklin.org</a>
</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; e pluribus Unum, &quot;from many,
one.&quot;</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In God We Trust</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Liberty - the&nbsp; power&nbsp; of&nbsp;
choosing,&nbsp; thinking,&nbsp; and&nbsp; acting&nbsp; for&nbsp; </div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
oneself; freedom&nbsp; from&nbsp; control&nbsp; or&nbsp;
restriction&nbsp; </div>
<br>
<br>
</html>

--=====================_1969278==.ALT--


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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 19 20:50:50 2020
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 03:46:23 GMT
To: ejrussell@mebtel.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3499343983876102128==

----__JWM__J4f7a884f.7cb49639S.2c399f13M
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I had studded tires for a while when I lived in AK but I bought them new=
, ready to go with the studs installed.  If you can&rsquo;t find some li=
ke that for your application, chains might be an easier solution or even=
 some of the fabric solutions.  Good luck!

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:16:28 -0500


A gazillion years ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to put stu=
dded snow tires on my daily driver MGA. (I lived in Massachusetts then.)=
 Tire stores were not allowed to sell studded snow tires. But they could=
 sell snow tires and a package of studs for the DIY'er to install. The t=
ires had a series of holes molded into the tread. The package of studs -=
 they looked like solid rivets - came with an installation tool sort of =
like a screwdriver handle. Put the stud into the end of the tool, press =
the head of the stud into the holes molded into the tread and push until=
 they were seated. It was a lot of work but I was young and hearty. As I=
 recall, the studs had to be installed before the tires were driven on -=
 I assume that otherwise the holes might get filled with dirt (a new inv=
ention) preventing the studs from being fully seated.
Eric Russell
 Mebane, NC
 On 12/17/2020 12:51 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:OK, I'm looking to put =
studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow. &#65533;Is ther=
e any 'method' to putting them on? &#65533;How many per tire? &#65533;Pa=
tterns? &#65533;The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in th=
e snow already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get =
any bite. &#65533;So I figured some studs would be perfect. =


----__JWM__J4f7a884f.7cb49639S.2c399f13M
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<html><div>I had studded tires for a while when I lived in AK but I boug=
ht them new, ready to go with the studs installed. &nbsp;If you can&rsqu=
o;t find some like that for your application, chains might be an easier =
solution or even some of the fabric solutions. &nbsp;Good luck!</div>
<div><br><br>---------- Original Message ----------<br>From: Eric Russel=
l &lt;ejrussell@mebtel.net&gt;<br>To: shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>Subjec=
t: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs<br>Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:16:28 -0500<b=
r><br></p>
<p>A gazillion years ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to put =
studded snow tires on my daily driver MGA. (I lived in Massachusetts the=
n.) Tire stores were not allowed to sell studded snow tires. But they co=
uld sell snow tires and a package of studs for the DIY'er to install. Th=
e tires had a series of holes molded into the tread. The package of stud=
s - they looked like solid rivets - came with an installation tool sort =
of like a screwdriver handle. Put the stud into the end of the tool, pre=
ss the head of the stud into the holes molded into the tread and push un=
til they were seated. It was a lot of work but I was young and hearty. A=
s I recall, the studs had to be installed before the tires were driven o=
n - I assume that otherwise the holes might get filled with dirt (a new =
invention) preventing the studs from being fully seated.</p>
<p>Eric Russell<br> Mebane, NC</p>
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 12/17/2020 12:51 PM, <a class=3D"moz-t=
xt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com=
</a> wrote:</div>
<blockquote cite=3D"mid:OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641=
.0062209B@mail.megageek.com"><span style=3D"font-family: sans-serif; fon=
t-size: small;">OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for=
 when I'm plowing snow. &#65533;Is there any 'method' to putting them on=
? &#65533;How many per tire? &#65533;Patterns? &#65533;The tires are a k=
nobby design and work pretty good in the snow already, but once the snow=
 packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite. &#65533;So I figured so=
me studs would be perfect.</span></blockquote>
<p>&nbsp;</p></html>

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 20 05:07:28 2020
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From: Robert Rochlin <rrochlin@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 07:06:28 -0500
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20201219.224623.26804.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============1295853836177137043==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_957D2078-8B17-4B59-98B1-499DBD155BDE"


--Apple-Mail=_957D2078-8B17-4B59-98B1-499DBD155BDE
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

	In my father=E2=80=99s repair shop we used to stud tires.  I had =
a Datson 240Z and studied both front and rear tires (then recommended) =
It was like perpetually riding on ice the car wandered terribly.  I =
spent a whole afternoon removing the studs.  I don=E2=80=99t believe =
that studded tires are allowed in Massachusetts anymore.  They did a =
tune on the asphalt roads, as unlike chains, people had them on full =
time during the winter, and many all year.
	Best,
	bob

> On Dec 19, 2020, at 10:46 PM, Matt <mbarre@juno.com> wrote:
>=20
> I had studded tires for a while when I lived in AK but I bought them =
new, ready to go with the studs installed.  If you can=E2=80=99t find =
some like that for your application, chains might be an easier solution =
or even some of the fabric solutions.  Good luck!
>=20
>=20
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
> Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:16:28 -0500
>=20
>=20
> A gazillion years ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to put =
studded snow tires on my daily driver MGA. (I lived in Massachusetts =
then.) Tire stores were not allowed to sell studded snow tires. But they =
could sell snow tires and a package of studs for the DIY'er to install. =
The tires had a series of holes molded into the tread. The package of =
studs - they looked like solid rivets - came with an installation tool =
sort of like a screwdriver handle. Put the stud into the end of the =
tool, press the head of the stud into the holes molded into the tread =
and push until they were seated. It was a lot of work but I was young =
and hearty. As I recall, the studs had to be installed before the tires =
were driven on - I assume that otherwise the holes might get filled with =
dirt (a new invention) preventing the studs from being fully seated.
>=20
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>=20
> =20
wrote:
> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm =
plowing snow. =EF=BF=BDIs there any 'method' to putting them on? =EF=BF=BD=
How many per tire? =EF=BF=BDPatterns? =EF=BF=BDThe tires are a knobby =
design and work pretty good in the snow already, but once the snow packs =
a little to ice, they can't get any bite. =EF=BF=BDSo I figured some =
studs would be perfect.
> =20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk =
http://autox.team.net/archive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin@comcast.net
>=20


--Apple-Mail=_957D2078-8B17-4B59-98B1-499DBD155BDE
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D""><span=
 class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>In my =
father=E2=80=99s repair shop we used to stud tires. &nbsp;I had a Datson =
240Z and studied both front and rear tires (then recommended) It was =
like perpetually riding on ice the car wandered terribly. &nbsp;I spent =
a whole afternoon removing the studs. &nbsp;I don=E2=80=99t believe that =
studded tires are allowed in Massachusetts anymore. &nbsp;They did a =
tune on the asphalt roads, as unlike chains, people had them on full =
time during the winter, and many all year.<div class=3D""><span =
class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	=
</span>Best,</div><div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>bob<br class=3D""><div><br =
class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Dec =
19, 2020, at 10:46 PM, Matt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mbarre@juno.com" =
class=3D"">mbarre@juno.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div class=3D"">I =
had studded tires for a while when I lived in AK but I bought them new, =
ready to go with the studs installed. &nbsp;If you can=E2=80=99t find =
some like that for your application, chains might be an easier solution =
or even some of the fabric solutions. &nbsp;Good luck!</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D""><br class=3D"">---------- Original =
Message ----------<br class=3D"">From: Eric Russell &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:ejrussell@mebtel.net" =
class=3D"">ejrussell@mebtel.net</a>&gt;<br class=3D"">To: <a =
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">Subject: Re: =
[Shop-talk] Tire studs<br class=3D"">Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 13:16:28 =
-0500<br class=3D""><br class=3D""><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D"webkit-block-placeholder"></div><p class=3D"">A gazillion years =
ago (before the invention of dirt) I wanted to put studded snow tires on =
my daily driver MGA. (I lived in Massachusetts then.) Tire stores were =
not allowed to sell studded snow tires. But they could sell snow tires =
and a package of studs for the DIY'er to install. The tires had a series =
of holes molded into the tread. The package of studs - they looked like =
solid rivets - came with an installation tool sort of like a screwdriver =
handle. Put the stud into the end of the tool, press the head of the =
stud into the holes molded into the tread and push until they were =
seated. It was a lot of work but I was young and hearty. As I recall, =
the studs had to be installed before the tires were driven on - I assume =
that otherwise the holes might get filled with dirt (a new invention) =
preventing the studs from being fully seated.</p><p class=3D"">Eric =
Russell<br class=3D""> Mebane, NC</p>
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 12/17/2020 12:51 PM, <a =
class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" =
href=3D"mailto:eric@megageek.com">eric@megageek.com</a> wrote:</div>
<blockquote =
cite=3D"mid:OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail=
.megageek.com" class=3D""><span style=3D"font-family: sans-serif; =
font-size: small;" class=3D"">OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero =
turn tractor for when I'm plowing snow. =EF=BF=BDIs there any 'method' =
to putting them on? =EF=BF=BDHow many per tire? =EF=BF=BDPatterns? =
=EF=BF=BDThe tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow =
already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any =
bite. =EF=BF=BDSo I figured some studs would be =
perfect.</span></blockquote><div class=3D"">&nbsp;<br =
class=3D"webkit-block-placeholder"></div>
_______________________________________________<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
class=3D"">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br class=3D"">Donate: =
&nbsp;$12.96<br class=3D"">Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rrochlin@comcast.net<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail=_957D2078-8B17-4B59-98B1-499DBD155BDE--

--===============1295853836177137043==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============1295853836177137043==--

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References: <20201219.224623.26804.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
 <EA4503BD-4825-42A6-8478-8DBEDB00AF23@comcast.net>
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 09:47:17 -0600
To: Robert Rochlin <rrochlin@comcast.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
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From: Thomas Coradeschi <tjcora@icloud.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 13:08:42 -0500
References: <20201219.224623.26804.0@webmail03.vgs.untd.com>
 <EA4503BD-4825-42A6-8478-8DBEDB00AF23@comcast.net>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 definitions=2020-12-20_12:2020-12-19,
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 20 15:08:27 2020
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Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 17:06:48 -0500 (EST)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF85A47AB2.EC6FA9FD-ON85258641.006166BD-85258641.0062209B@mail.megageek.com>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.20.16 (BSF 172 2016-09-29)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tire studs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, 17 Dec 2020, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, I'm looking to put studs on my zero turn tractor for when I'm plowing
> snow.  Is there any 'method' to putting them on?  How many per tire?
> Patterns?  The tires are a knobby design and work pretty good in the snow
> already, but once the snow packs a little to ice, they can't get any bite.
> So I figured some studs would be perfect.

Buy some Kold Kutters, and screw them in from the outside.  By far the 
easiest installation option.

https://koldkutter.com/

I used to use these for ice-racers, with excellent results.  I still have 
a box of about 2500 of them, well-used and rusty now, kicking around here.

Depending on how thick the tread of your tires is, you might also want to 
add some Tire Slime or other sealant inside.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 20 21:06:55 2020
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From: Robert Nogueirao <nogera@icloud.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 22:05:58 -0600
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Using RTV gasket maker
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>
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References: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 06:48:06 -0500
Cc: Shop Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Using RTV gasket maker
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7270843979268517669==

--000000000000c9974e05b6f80820
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'm a big fan of Hylomar for that application.

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020, 23:07 Robert Nogueirao <nogera@icloud.com> wrote:

> Seems like every video of someone working on an engine has them using RTV
> gasket maker with a paper gasket, yet buried in the manufactures literatu=
re
> it specifically says not to use it to hold a paper gasket in place.
> I=E2=80=99ll admit I=E2=80=99ve done it and haven=E2=80=99t had any probl=
ems.
> What says the group, what do you use on gaskets?
> Bob Nogueira
>
> PS: and yes I=E2=80=99m aware of the =E2=80=9C globs=E2=80=9D problem of =
fouling the oil pump
> screen. I use a thin coat placed closer to the outside edge.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000c9974e05b6f80820
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;m a big fan of Hylomar for that application.</div><=
br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun,=
 Dec 20, 2020, 23:07 Robert Nogueirao &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:nogera@icloud.c=
om">nogera@icloud.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex=
">Seems like every video of someone working on an engine has them using RTV=
 gasket maker with a paper gasket, yet buried in the manufactures literatur=
e it specifically says not to use it to hold a paper gasket in place.=C2=A0=
 <br>
I=E2=80=99ll admit I=E2=80=99ve done it and haven=E2=80=99t had any problem=
s. <br>
What says the group, what do you use on gaskets?<br>
Bob Nogueira<br>
<br>
PS: and yes I=E2=80=99m aware of the =E2=80=9C globs=E2=80=9D problem of fo=
uling the oil pump screen. I use a thin coat placed closer to the outside e=
dge.<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</=
a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/fishplate@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--000000000000c9974e05b6f80820--

--===============7270843979268517669==
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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============7270843979268517669==--

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Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 12:33:35 +0000 (UTC)
From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com>
To: "nogera@icloud.com" <nogera@icloud.com>, 
 "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>
 x64; rv:83.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/83.0
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Using RTV gasket maker
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============0033636148144980032==
	boundary="----=_Part_1912262_1757074853.1608554015840"

------=_Part_1912262_1757074853.1608554015840
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 Not all RTV sealants are created equal.=C2=A0 Some will tolerate engine oi=
l and others, not so sure.=C2=A0 Check the manufacturer's data sheet (which=
 are typically only available online).=C2=A0 I have not found one that is t=
olerant of gasoline.=C2=A0 If the sealant is not tolerant it will swell up =
and flow globules as you mention.=C2=A0 Frankly, I'm only comfortable using=
 RTV on coolant applications but I have used it to stick my new Silicone va=
lve cover gasket to my valve cover.=C2=A0 I prefer Hylomar for paper gasket=
s.=C2=A0 Perhaps those You-Tubers are getting compensation for product plac=
ement.=C2=A0 (Jus' sayin')

One recommendation I heard is to apply the RTV sparingly but equally, assem=
ble the parts and tighten the fasteners finger-tight.=C2=A0 Wait about half=
 an hour and THEN torque down the fasteners.=C2=A0 This will allow the RTV =
to take a set and not ooze out into the space where it should not go.
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Nogueirao <nogera@icloud.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Dec 20, 2020 10:05 pm
Subject: [Shop-talk] Using RTV gasket maker

Seems like every video of someone working on an engine has them using RTV g=
asket maker with a paper gasket, yet buried in the manufactures literature =
it specifically says not to use it to hold a paper gasket in place.=C2=A0=
=20
I=E2=80=99ll admit I=E2=80=99ve done it and haven=E2=80=99t had any problem=
s.=20
What says the group, what do you use on gaskets?
Bob Nogueira

PS: and yes I=E2=80=99m aware of the =E2=80=9C globs=E2=80=9D problem of fo=
uling the oil pump screen. I use a thin coat placed closer to the outside e=
dge.

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive

ssey@cs.com


------=_Part_1912262_1757074853.1608554015840
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size=3D"3">Not all RTV sealants are created equal.&nbsp; Some w=
ill tolerate engine oil and others, not so sure.&nbsp; Check the manufactur=
er's data sheet (which are typically only available online).&nbsp; I have n=
ot found one that is tolerant of gasoline.&nbsp; If the sealant is not tole=
rant it will swell up and flow globules as you mention.&nbsp; Frankly, I'm =
only comfortable using RTV on coolant applications but I have used it to st=
ick my new Silicone valve cover gasket to my valve cover.&nbsp; I prefer Hy=
lomar for paper gaskets.&nbsp; Perhaps those You-Tubers are getting compens=
ation for product placement.&nbsp; (Jus' sayin')<br>
</font></div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div><font size=3D"3">One recommendation I heard is to apply the RTV sparin=
gly but equally, assemble the parts and tighten the fasteners finger-tight.=
&nbsp; Wait about half an hour and THEN torque down the fasteners.&nbsp; Th=
is will allow the RTV to take a set and not ooze out into the space where i=
t should not go.</font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"clear:both"><font size=3D"4">Dave </font><br>
<br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----=
Original Message-----<br>
From: Robert Nogueirao &lt;nogera@icloud.com&gt;<br>
To: Shop Talk &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
Sent: Sun, Dec 20, 2020 10:05 pm<br>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Using RTV gasket maker<br>
<br>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Seems like every video of someone working on an engine has=
 them using RTV gasket maker with a paper gasket, yet buried in the manufac=
tures literature it specifically says not to use it to hold a paper gasket =
in place.&nbsp; <br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">I=E2=80=99ll admit I=E2=80=99ve done it and haven=E2=80=99=
t had any problems. <br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">What says the group, what do you use on gaskets?<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob Nogueira<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">PS: and yes I=E2=80=99m aware of the =E2=80=9C globs=E2=80=
=9D problem of fouling the oil pump screen. I use a thin coat placed closer=
 to the outside edge.<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">_______________________________________________<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><a ymailto=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" href=3D"mai=
lto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.96<br>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>

------=_Part_1912262_1757074853.1608554015840--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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 Mon, 21 Dec 2020 06:17:33 -0800 (PST)
References: <A82C55ED-F15A-43CA-89CC-DED2F129ADF1@icloud.com>
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 08:17:22 -0600
To: Robert Nogueirao <nogera@icloud.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Using RTV gasket maker
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============3517919758488006324==

--00000000000088f64e05b6fa1e78
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a very specific procedure for paper gaskets that I was taught by my
father (a mechanic and shop teacher).  It has always worked well for me.
First, Clean the sealing surfaces and make sure they are smooth.  If you
use a wire brush on aluminum surfaces you are likely going to get some
scratches, clean it up with some 1500 grit sandpaper.  Next, I liberally
coat the gasket in oil.  The theory here is that the gasket is absorbent.
If you saturate it to start with it will not want to absorb any additional
oil or water from the thing you are trying to seal.  Next, it gets a thin
(and I do mean THIN) coating of RTV.  NOTE do not use HYLOMAR for this
application, you want an RTV that will set.  Wait a couple minutes for the
RTV to start to set then assemble and torque to sepc.  NOTE that in my
experience 90% of gasket failure is tied to improper torque values or
pattern.  Finally, WAIT.  Do not put the part into service until the RTV is
fully cured.  This step, above all else will prevent any excess RTV form
clogging up anything.  I have used this technique for more than 30 years
and never had a gasket leak.  YMMV.

On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 10:07 PM Robert Nogueirao <nogera@icloud.com> wrote=
:

> Seems like every video of someone working on an engine has them using RTV
> gasket maker with a paper gasket, yet buried in the manufactures literatu=
re
> it specifically says not to use it to hold a paper gasket in place.
> I=E2=80=99ll admit I=E2=80=99ve done it and haven=E2=80=99t had any probl=
ems.
> What says the group, what do you use on gaskets?
> Bob Nogueira
>
> PS: and yes I=E2=80=99m aware of the =E2=80=9C globs=E2=80=9D problem of =
fouling the oil pump
> screen. I use a thin coat placed closer to the outside edge.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
>
>

--=20
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D Never offend people with style when you   =3D
=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

--00000000000088f64e05b6fa1e78
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I have a very specific procedure for paper gaskets that I =
was taught by my father (a mechanic and shop teacher).=C2=A0 It has always =
worked well for me.=C2=A0 First, Clean the sealing surfaces and make sure t=
hey are smooth.=C2=A0 If you use a wire brush on aluminum surfaces you are =
likely going to get some scratches, clean it up with some 1500 grit sandpap=
er.=C2=A0 Next, I liberally coat the gasket in oil.=C2=A0 The theory here i=
s that the gasket is absorbent.=C2=A0 If you saturate it to start with it w=
ill not want to absorb any additional oil or water from the thing you are t=
rying to seal.=C2=A0 Next, it gets a thin (and I do mean THIN) coating of R=
TV.=C2=A0 NOTE do not use HYLOMAR for this application, you want an RTV tha=
t will set.=C2=A0 Wait a couple minutes for the RTV to start to set then as=
semble and torque to sepc.=C2=A0 NOTE that in my experience 90% of gasket f=
ailure is tied to improper torque values or pattern.=C2=A0 Finally, WAIT.=
=C2=A0 Do not put the part into service until the RTV is fully cured.=C2=A0=
 This step, above all else will prevent any excess RTV form clogging up any=
thing.=C2=A0 I have used this technique for more than 30 years and never ha=
d a gasket leak.=C2=A0 YMMV.<br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div d=
ir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 10:07 PM Robert Nog=
ueirao &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:nogera@icloud.com">nogera@icloud.com</a>&gt; w=
rote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0p=
x 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Seems like=
 every video of someone working on an engine has them using RTV gasket make=
r with a paper gasket, yet buried in the manufactures literature it specifi=
cally says not to use it to hold a paper gasket in place.=C2=A0 <br>
I=E2=80=99ll admit I=E2=80=99ve done it and haven=E2=80=99t had any problem=
s. <br>
What says the group, what do you use on gaskets?<br>
Bob Nogueira<br>
<br>
PS: and yes I=E2=80=99m aware of the =E2=80=9C globs=E2=80=9D problem of fo=
uling the oil pump screen. I use a thin coat placed closer to the outside e=
dge.<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people with =
style when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Bro=
wn=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</div>

--00000000000088f64e05b6fa1e78--

--===============3517919758488006324==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============3517919758488006324==--

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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 11:05:41 -0800
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
 definitions=2020-12-26_09:2020-12-24,
 2020-12-26 signatures=0
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 14:31:58 -0500
To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============9061656199945352802==

--000000000000ca919105b76318b9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I bought a middle size/quality floor mount cabinet from Greg Smith
equipment (model sbc42) about 3 years ago.  It's great and I don't regret
it in any way.

To answer your questions:

1.   I use it about how I expected and do lots of suspension and other
similar components. Probably an hour a week on average.  You need lots of
air, I have an 18 cfm compressor and it mostly keeps up. Usually I don't
need the bigger cabinet, but I also clean wheels, driveshafts and other
larger parts that's wouldn't fit in the smaller cabinets.

2.  For heavy cast parts I mostly use coal slag sold at Menard's around
here.  I've also used glass beads and walnut shells for finer material but
they're about 4 times the cost.  They're all reusable but are slowly
consumed.  After a while it's a good idea to change it out with new.  A
good filter/separator will pull out the dust and fine particles.  Nozzles,
filters and plastic window shields are the other major consumables.  I've
debated whether the plastic shields are better than just replacing the
glass periodically.

3. I use ear plugs to fill tapped holes and tape threads as you mentioned.
I would not blast any part that you're not going to completely tear down
and clean thoroughly.  The grit will get everywhere so I always degrease
first, blast, detergent wash and repeat as required before painting.

Good luck, Ben

On Sat, Dec 26, 2020, 2:07 PM Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com> wrote:

>
> I=E2=80=99m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast c=
abinet.
> I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is about a=
ll
> the space I=E2=80=99m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of w=
hat I
> would be looking at blasting.
>
> So a some questions for the list:
>
> 1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it
> more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some
> suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come
> along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised
> to find additional uses.
>
> 2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly be
> removing paint, and some surface rust.
>
> 3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces
> (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect
> those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will
> be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  I=E2=80=99m thinking that=
 wrapping
> that area in duct tape might be a good idea.
>
> Thanks!
> -Darrell
>
> --
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bjzwissler@gmail.com
>
>

--000000000000ca919105b76318b9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">I bought a middle size/quality floor mount cabinet from G=
reg Smith equipment (model sbc42) about 3 years ago.=C2=A0 It&#39;s great a=
nd I don&#39;t regret it in any way.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div =
dir=3D"auto">To answer your questions:</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><di=
v dir=3D"auto">1.=C2=A0 =C2=A0I use it about how I expected and do lots of =
suspension and other similar components. Probably an hour a week on average=
.=C2=A0 You need lots of air, I have an 18 cfm compressor and it mostly kee=
ps up. Usually I don&#39;t need the bigger cabinet, but I also clean wheels=
, driveshafts and other larger parts that&#39;s wouldn&#39;t fit in the sma=
ller cabinets.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">2.=C2=A0 =
For heavy cast parts I mostly use coal slag sold at Menard&#39;s around her=
e.=C2=A0 I&#39;ve also used glass beads and walnut shells for finer materia=
l but they&#39;re about 4 times the cost.=C2=A0 They&#39;re all reusable bu=
t are slowly consumed.=C2=A0 After a while it&#39;s a good idea to change i=
t out with new.=C2=A0 A good filter/separator will pull out the dust and fi=
ne particles.=C2=A0 Nozzles, filters and plastic window shields are the oth=
er major consumables.=C2=A0 I&#39;ve debated whether the plastic shields ar=
e better than just replacing the glass periodically.</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">3. I use ear plugs to fill tapped holes and ta=
pe threads as you mentioned.=C2=A0 I would not blast any part that you&#39;=
re not going to completely tear down and clean thoroughly.=C2=A0 The grit w=
ill get everywhere so I always degrease first, blast, detergent wash and re=
peat as required before painting.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">Good luck, Ben</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 26, 2020, 2:07 PM Darrell W=
alker &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:darrellw360@mac.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferr=
er noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">darrellw360@mac.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></di=
v><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:=
1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><br>
I=E2=80=99m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cab=
inet.=C2=A0 I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that =
is about all the space I=E2=80=99m willing to allocate, and it should handl=
e most of what I would be looking at blasting.<br>
<br>
So a some questions for the list:<br>
<br>
1.=C2=A0 For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using i=
t more than you expected?=C2=A0 My first project would be cleaning up some =
suspension parts (mostly paint removal).=C2=A0 I think enough projects come=
 along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised =
to find additional uses.<br>
<br>
2.=C2=A0 What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?=C2=A0 I would m=
ostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.<br>
<br>
3.=C2=A0 The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces (t=
hreaded holes, tapers, etc).=C2=A0 How careful do you need to be to protect=
 those areas?=C2=A0 And what if the best way to do that?=C2=A0 One of the p=
arts will be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m =
thinking that wrapping that area in duct tape might be a good idea.<br>
<br>
Thanks!<br>
-Darrell<br>
<br>
-- <br>
Darrell Walker<br>
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L<br>
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206<br>
Vancouver, WA, USA<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer no=
referrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
errer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.n=
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
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alk/bjzwissler@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferre=
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<br>
</blockquote></div>

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 26 13:00:21 2020
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From: Karl Vacek <stearman809@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox. team. net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 13:59:08 -0600
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
User-Agent: AquaMail/1.27.2-1730 (build: 102700009)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============4987259504569139912==

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------------176a0a21f77230f28bf88250cd
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Not a bench top cabinet, but the Harbor Freight floor standing cabinet I 
bought about 2007 is  probably the best thing I've ever bought there.  
Sturdy, powder coated, big enough for most things I need.  I've even put 
longer things in there and just put an industrial strength garbage bag over 
the projecting parts, taped to the cabinet.

I put it on a welded steel base with large casters.  I appreciate the 
greater height and mobility.  Could use a foot pedal instead of the 
trigger, easy enough to do if I ever bother.  The single door is mostly OK, 
but I'd prefer doors on both sides.  A lift top door might be okay, but not 
my preference.

Blazing does need lots of air.  A real 2 HP compressor was always fine for 
conventional paint spraying, but with the higher pressures required it's 
barely enough for blasting.  Works if you don't mind blasting for a few 
minutes and then waiting at least that long again for recovery.

Certainly something like an oleo strut needs the sliding surfaces 
protected.  Threads are usually ok, but probably not overly fine ones.  I 
mostly use glass beads.  Changing media isn't as fast as you might expect, 
unless you don't mind the last media contaminating the next media you use.

On December 26, 2020 1:06:07 PM Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com> wrote:

> Iâ€™m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cabinet.  I 
> realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is about all 
> the space Iâ€™m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of what I 
> would be looking at blasting.
>
> So a some questions for the list:
>
> 1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it 
> more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some 
> suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come 
> along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised 
> to find additional uses.
>
> 2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly be 
> removing paint, and some surface rust.
>
> 3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces 
> (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect 
> those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will 
> be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  Iâ€™m thinking that wrapping 
> that area in duct tape might be a good idea.
>
> Thanks!
> -Darrell
>
> --
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/stearman809@gmail.com


------------176a0a21f77230f28bf88250cd
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN" "http://www.=
w3.org/TR/html4/loose.dtd">
<html>
<body>
<div dir=3D"auto">
<div dir=3D"auto">Not a bench top cabinet, but the Harbor Freight floor sta=
nding cabinet I bought about 2007 is&nbsp; probably the best thing I've eve=
r bought there.&nbsp; Sturdy, powder coated, big enough for most things I n=
eed.&nbsp; I've even put longer things in there and just put an industrial =
strength garbage bag over the projecting parts, taped to the cabinet.</div>=
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I put it on a welded steel ba=
se with large casters.&nbsp; I appreciate the greater height and mobility.&=
nbsp; Could use a foot pedal instead of the trigger, easy enough to do if I=
 ever bother.&nbsp; The single door is mostly OK, but I'd prefer doors on b=
oth sides.&nbsp; A lift top door might be okay, but not my preference.</div=
><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Blazing does need lots of ai=
r.&nbsp; A real 2 HP compressor was always fine for conventional paint spra=
ying, but with the higher pressures required it's barely enough for blastin=
g.&nbsp; Works if you don't mind blasting for a few minutes and then waitin=
g at least that long again for recovery.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><=
div dir=3D"auto">Certainly something like an oleo strut needs the sliding s=
urfaces protected.&nbsp; Threads are usually ok, but probably not overly fi=
ne ones.&nbsp; I mostly use glass beads.&nbsp; Changing media isn't as fast=
 as you might expect, unless you don't mind the last media contaminating th=
e next media you use.</div><div dir=3D'auto'><br></div>
<div id=3D"aqm-original" style=3D"color: black;">
<div dir=3D"auto">On December 26, 2020 1:06:07 PM Darrell Walker &lt;darrel=
lw360@mac.com&gt; wrote:</div>
<div><br></div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0 0 0 0.75=
ex; border-left: 1px solid #808080; padding-left: 0.75ex;">
<div dir=3D"auto">I=E2=80=99m thinking of using some Christmas money on a b=
ench top blast cabinet. &nbsp;I realize the small size will limit what I ca=
n blast, but that is about all the space I=E2=80=99m willing to allocate, a=
nd it should handle most of what I would be looking at blasting.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>
<div dir=3D"auto">So a some questions for the list:</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>
<div dir=3D"auto">1. &nbsp;For those of you with blast cabinets, do you fin=
d yourself using it more than you expected? &nbsp;My first project would be=
 cleaning up some suspension parts (mostly paint removal). &nbsp;I think en=
ough projects come along that it would be worth having one, but I would lov=
e to be surprised to find additional uses.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>
<div dir=3D"auto">2. &nbsp;What is a good all purpose, reusable media to us=
e? &nbsp;I would mostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>
<div dir=3D"auto">3. &nbsp;The first parts I would be cleaning have some ma=
chined surfaces (threaded holes, tapers, etc). &nbsp;How careful do you nee=
d to be to protect those areas? &nbsp;And what if the best way to do that? =
&nbsp;One of the parts will be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle. =
&nbsp;I=E2=80=99m thinking that wrapping that area in duct tape might be a =
good idea.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Thanks!</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">-Darrell</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>
<div dir=3D"auto">--&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Darrell Walker</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Vancouver, WA, USA</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>
<div dir=3D"auto">_______________________________________________</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Suggested annual donation &nbsp;$12.96</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://a=
utox.team.net/archive</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options=
/shop-talk/stearman809@gmail.com</div>
</blockquote>
</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>
</div></body>
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Cgo=

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 26 13:30:40 2020
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To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
 type=4; name=$KeepSent
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 15:29:53 -0500
 12/26/2020 03:29:55 PM,
 Serialize complete at 12/26/2020 03:29:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============0138844452199935712==

This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--=_alternative 007094F28525864A_=

To answer the question about how useful a cabinet is that as long as it is 
always 'ready to go' you will find lots of time it's handy.  For mine, I 
just turn on the air to the cabinet (valve right at unit) and flip on the 
light.  If I am going to be blasting long, I'll flip on the exhaust as 
well.

But if I had to get it out, hook it up, move stuff around, I wouldn't use 
it as much.

I keep AL oxide in mine.  It's very aggressive, but I'm mostly cleaning 
really rusty stuff.

Just my 2 cents worth


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
-Who is John Galt?
--=_alternative 007094F28525864A_=

<font size=2 face="sans-serif">To answer the question about how useful
a cabinet is that as long as it is always 'ready to go' you will find lots
of time it's handy. &nbsp;For mine, I just turn on the air to the cabinet
(valve right at unit) and flip on the light. &nbsp;If I am going to be
blasting long, I'll flip on the exhaust as well.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">But if I had to get it out, hook it
up, move stuff around, I wouldn't use it as much.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I keep AL oxide in mine. &nbsp;It's
very aggressive, but I'm mostly cleaning really rusty stuff.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Just my 2 cents worth</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"><br>
<br>
&quot;Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory.&quot; Ralph
Waldo Emerson <br>
-Who is John Galt?</font>
--=_alternative 007094F28525864A_=--

--===============0138844452199935712==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============0138844452199935712==--

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 26 13:43:59 2020
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 Sat, 26 Dec 2020 20:43:12 +0000 (UTC)
From: Pat Horne <patintexas@icloud.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 14:43:10 -0600
References: <OF3B261251.055F80C9-ON8525864A.007048AB-8525864A.0070994D@mail.megageek.com>
To: eric@megageek.com
 definitions=2020-12-26_09:2020-12-24,
 2020-12-26 signatures=0
 malwarescore=0
 phishscore=0 bulkscore=0 spamscore=0 clxscore=1015 mlxscore=0
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
Cc: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net


--===============5354947068313019146==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


--Apple-Mail-BC02F691-4D06-45D0-BE70-AB62A9C32F72
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I didn=E2=80=99t get the original post so I am piggybacking on this post.=20=


Freestanding vs tabletop: I bought a tabletop from Eastwood. As designed it i=
s pretty poor. The bottom doesn=E2=80=99t slope enough to feed abrasive. I l=
eft the grate out & just work on the abrasive pile. It=E2=80=99s fine but so=
metimes it=E2=80=99s hard to find small parts. Freestanding would have been b=
etter but I bought it for a single care restoration so didn=E2=80=99t want t=
o spend the $$$. The light is a joke also. I=E2=80=99ve been waiting for a r=
eplacement window for 6 months. Keep saying it=E2=80=99s back ordered. I don=
=E2=80=99t recommend this unit but it=E2=80=99ll do.=20

Media: I use fine coal slag. $10/50 lbs @ Tractor Supply. Works great.=20

Like Eric says, mine is set up really to go.=20

Peace,
Pat

Pat Horne=20
We support Habitat for Humanity


On Dec 26, 2020, at 2:31 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:

=EF=BB=BFTo answer the question about how useful a cabinet is that as long a=
s it is always 'ready to go' you will find lots of time it's handy.  For min=
e, I just turn on the air to the cabinet (valve right at unit) and flip on t=
he light.  If I am going to be blasting long, I'll flip on the exhaust as we=
ll.=20

But if I had to get it out, hook it up, move stuff around, I wouldn't use it=
 as much.=20

I keep AL oxide in mine.  It's very aggressive, but I'm mostly cleaning real=
ly rusty stuff.=20

Just my 2 cents worth=20


"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational be=
ing are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo E=
merson=20
-Who is John Galt?_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve

as@icloud.com


--Apple-Mail-BC02F691-4D06-45D0-BE70-AB62A9C32F72
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">I didn=E2=80=99t get the original post so I=
 am piggybacking on this post.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>Freestanding vs tabl=
etop: I bought a tabletop from Eastwood. As designed it is pretty poor. The b=
ottom doesn=E2=80=99t slope enough to feed abrasive. I left the grate out &a=
mp; just work on the abrasive pile. It=E2=80=99s fine but sometimes it=E2=80=
=99s hard to find small parts. Freestanding would have been better but I bou=
ght it for a single care restoration so didn=E2=80=99t want to spend the $$$=
. The light is a joke also. I=E2=80=99ve been waiting for a replacement wind=
ow for 6 months. Keep saying it=E2=80=99s back ordered. I don=E2=80=99t reco=
mmend this unit but it=E2=80=99ll do.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Media: I=
 use fine coal slag. $10/50 lbs @ Tractor Supply. Works great.&nbsp;</div><d=
iv><br></div><div>Like Eric says, mine is set up really to go.&nbsp;</div><d=
iv><br></div><div>Peace,</div><div>Pat</div><div><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Pat Ho=
rne&nbsp;<div>We support Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div=
 dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Dec 26, 2020, at 2:31 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:<br><b=
r></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">To an=
swer the question about how useful
a cabinet is that as long as it is always 'ready to go' you will find lots
of time it's handy. &nbsp;For mine, I just turn on the air to the cabinet
(valve right at unit) and flip on the light. &nbsp;If I am going to be
blasting long, I'll flip on the exhaust as well.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">But if I had to get it out, hook it=

up, move stuff around, I wouldn't use it as much.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">I keep AL oxide in mine. &nbsp;It's=

very aggressive, but I'm mostly cleaning really rusty stuff.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Just my 2 cents worth</font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
<br>
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson <br>
-Who is John Galt?</font><span>_____________________________________________=
__</span><br><span></span><br><span>Shop-talk@autox.team.net</span><br><span=
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual do=
nation &nbsp;$12.96</span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/s=
hop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsu=
bscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@i=
cloud.com</span><br><span></span><br></div></div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail-BC02F691-4D06-45D0-BE70-AB62A9C32F72--

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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



--===============5354947068313019146==--

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
From: Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 15:52:25 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
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From: Jim Stone <1789alpine@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 16:51:53 -0500
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 <70e516d9-8551-e3af-7faa-6975deb6c001@mebtel.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
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From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 18:01:22 -0500
To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============8838218103927317857==

--000000000000b58b2e05b7660556
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Howdy,

I used to have a smaller benchtop blast cabinet.  As someone else said,
mine had less slope on the sides under the grate, so media didn't feed as
well.  The pickup tube & gun also weren't great.  IIRC I modified the
pickup tube to work better, but it's been so long I have no idea what I did=
.

I've since replaced it with a TP Tools floor standing cabinet, which is
better in every way.  Mine is a top loader which I find better in terms of
shop packaging (you can have stuff right beside it), loading (easier for me
to lift stuff in there over the top edge vs. shoving it in the side), and
changing the plastic protector film (WAY nicer than my dad's side loader).

Invariably, your blast cabinet will be too small no matter how big it is.

In terms of how often I use it... Basically any time I want to paint
something metal that fits in it, any time I weld anything that fits in it,
any time I want to clean up rusty stuff that fits in it, etc.  In addition,
it's one of those tools where nothing else substitutes.  Nothing cleans
parts as well as a sandblaster, and nothing works as fast as a
sandblaster.  So if you're doing stuff where that kind of thing matters,
you'll love having it.

Mine is also ready to go at a flip of a valve & switch.  I wired my light &
vacuum / dust system to the same switch, so it's fast and easy to throw
something in there to get it cleaned up.

Media-wise I don't have any particular recommendations.  What's available
may be different based on your area as well.  I'm almost never doing
anything fine, so I lean toward the aggressive side and when I need media I
just hit my local supplier (TP Tools is local to me) and ask them what
everyone likes.

The tip of using masking tape under duct tape sounds like a great one for
protecting things.  I would say that generally I'm not too worried about
that.  I've never had any issues with the blaster eating threads or
anything.

Size your nozzles to your compressor.  When I used to have a smaller direct
drive setup I used either small or extra small nozzles and while it wasn't
as fast, I was able to use the blaster.  These days I use mediums with a 19
(??) or so CFM compressor.

Get plenty of plastic protector films.  Every single time I've changed it,
I've kicked myself for not doing it sooner when I look through the new
one.  :)

Mark

On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 2:06 PM Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com> wrote:

>
> I=E2=80=99m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast c=
abinet.
> I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is about a=
ll
> the space I=E2=80=99m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of w=
hat I
> would be looking at blasting.
>
> So a some questions for the list:
>
> 1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it
> more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some
> suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come
> along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised
> to find additional uses.
>
> 2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly be
> removing paint, and some surface rust.
>
> 3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces
> (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect
> those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will
> be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  I=E2=80=99m thinking that=
 wrapping
> that area in duct tape might be a good idea.
>
> Thanks!
> -Darrell
>
> --
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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>
>

--000000000000b58b2e05b7660556
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Howdy,<br><br>I used to have a smaller benchtop blast cabi=
net.=C2=A0 As someone else said, mine had less slope on the sides under the=
 grate, so media didn&#39;t feed as well.=C2=A0 The pickup tube &amp; gun a=
lso weren&#39;t great.=C2=A0 IIRC I modified the pickup tube to work better=
, but it&#39;s been so long I have no idea what I did.<br><br>I&#39;ve sinc=
e replaced it with a TP Tools floor standing cabinet, which is better in ev=
ery way.=C2=A0 Mine is a top loader which I find better in terms of shop pa=
ckaging (you can have stuff right beside it), loading (easier for me to lif=
t stuff in there over the top edge vs. shoving it in the side), and changin=
g the plastic protector film (WAY nicer than my dad&#39;s side loader).<br>=
<br>Invariably, your blast cabinet will be too small no matter how big it i=
s.<br><br>In terms of how often I use it... Basically any time I want to pa=
int something metal that fits in it, any time I weld anything that fits in =
it, any time I want to clean up rusty stuff that fits in it, etc.=C2=A0 In =
addition, it&#39;s one of those tools where nothing else substitutes.=C2=A0=
 Nothing cleans parts as well as a sandblaster, and nothing works as fast a=
s a sandblaster.=C2=A0 So if you&#39;re doing stuff where that kind of thin=
g matters, you&#39;ll love having it.<br><br>Mine is also ready to go at a =
flip of a valve &amp; switch.=C2=A0 I wired my light &amp; vacuum=C2=A0/ du=
st system to the same switch, so it&#39;s fast and easy to throw something =
in there to get it cleaned up.<br><br>Media-wise I don&#39;t have any parti=
cular recommendations.=C2=A0 What&#39;s available may be different based on=
 your area as well.=C2=A0 I&#39;m almost never doing anything fine, so I le=
an toward the aggressive side and when I need media I just hit my local sup=
plier (TP Tools is local to me) and ask them what everyone likes.<br><br>Th=
e tip of using masking tape under duct tape sounds like a great one for pro=
tecting things.=C2=A0 I would say that generally I&#39;m not too worried ab=
out that.=C2=A0 I&#39;ve never had any issues with the blaster eating threa=
ds or anything.<br><br>Size your nozzles to your compressor.=C2=A0 When I u=
sed to have a smaller direct drive setup I used either small or extra small=
 nozzles and while it wasn&#39;t as fast, I was able to use the blaster.=C2=
=A0 These days I use mediums with a 19 (??) or so CFM compressor.<br><br>Ge=
t plenty of plastic protector films.=C2=A0 Every single time I&#39;ve chang=
ed it, I&#39;ve kicked myself for not doing it sooner when I look through t=
he new one.=C2=A0 :)<br><br>Mark</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div d=
ir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 2:06 PM Darrell Wal=
ker &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:darrellw360@mac.com">darrellw360@mac.com</a>&gt; =
wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0=
px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><br>
I=E2=80=99m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cab=
inet.=C2=A0 I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that =
is about all the space I=E2=80=99m willing to allocate, and it should handl=
e most of what I would be looking at blasting.<br>
<br>
So a some questions for the list:<br>
<br>
1.=C2=A0 For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using i=
t more than you expected?=C2=A0 My first project would be cleaning up some =
suspension parts (mostly paint removal).=C2=A0 I think enough projects come=
 along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised =
to find additional uses.<br>
<br>
2.=C2=A0 What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?=C2=A0 I would m=
ostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.<br>
<br>
3.=C2=A0 The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces (t=
hreaded holes, tapers, etc).=C2=A0 How careful do you need to be to protect=
 those areas?=C2=A0 And what if the best way to do that?=C2=A0 One of the p=
arts will be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m =
thinking that wrapping that area in duct tape might be a good idea.<br>
<br>
Thanks!<br>
-Darrell<br>
<br>
-- <br>
Darrell Walker<br>
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L<br>
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206<br>
Vancouver, WA, USA<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/marka@maracing.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/marka@maracing.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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From: "Tim ." <tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com>
To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
Thread-Index: AQHW27pM7h9I/eysGEK2a/Q6ScN3sqoLD7Mw
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 15:19:47 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
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My .02: No matter what you buy, spend EXTRA time sealing every seam. I did =
this and mine still leaks and makes a mess out of a couple spots. Seal, and=
 re-seal. rinse and repeat.

tim

________________________________
From: Shop-talk <shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell Wal=
ker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2020 1:05 PM
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media


I=92m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cabinet. =
 I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is about al=
l the space I=92m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of what I =
would be looking at blasting.

So a some questions for the list:

1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it mor=
e than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some suspension=
 parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come along that it =
would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised to find additio=
nal uses.

2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly be r=
emoving paint, and some surface rust.

3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces (thread=
ed holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect those are=
as?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will be a strut=
 tube, which includes the stub axle.  I=92m thinking that wrapping that are=
a in duct tape might be a good idea.

Thanks!
-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive

tsun_stuff@outlook.com


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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DWindows-1=
252">
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ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
My .02: No matter what you buy, spend EXTRA time sealing every seam. I did =
this and mine still leaks and makes a mess out of a couple spots. Seal, and=
 re-seal. rinse and repeat.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
tim</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Shop-talk &lt;shop-ta=
lk-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of Darrell Walker &lt;darrellw360@m=
ac.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 26, 2020 1:05 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> shop-talk &lt;shop-talk@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"BodyFragment"><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt"=
>
<div class=3D"PlainText"><br>
I=92m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast cabinet.&=
nbsp; I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that is abo=
ut all the space I=92m willing to allocate, and it should handle most of wh=
at I would be looking at blasting.<br>
<br>
So a some questions for the list:<br>
<br>
1.&nbsp; For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using i=
t more than you expected?&nbsp; My first project would be cleaning up some =
suspension parts (mostly paint removal).&nbsp; I think enough projects come=
 along that it would be worth having one, but I
 would love to be surprised to find additional uses.<br>
<br>
2.&nbsp; What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?&nbsp; I would m=
ostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.<br>
<br>
3.&nbsp; The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces (t=
hreaded holes, tapers, etc).&nbsp; How careful do you need to be to protect=
 those areas?&nbsp; And what if the best way to do that?&nbsp; One of the p=
arts will be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.&nbsp;
 I=92m thinking that wrapping that area in duct tape might be a good idea.<=
br>
<br>
Thanks!<br>
-Darrell<br>
<br>
-- <br>
Darrell Walker<br>
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L<br>
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206<br>
Vancouver, WA, USA<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
Shop-talk@autox.team.net<br>
ate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk">http://www.tea=
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alk/tims_datsun_stuff@outlook.com">
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 <70e516d9-8551-e3af-7faa-6975deb6c001@mebtel.net>
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 10:29:19 -0500
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============4756518417794559809==

--000000000000db38a905b773d2d0
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Like Eric, about 35 years ago I built one of the TP Tools blasting cabinet
kits made from 3/4" plywood and it's been working great all these years.
At the same time I also bought their vacuum kit and built a dedicated
vacuum from two 30 gallon drums.  The vacuum motor lasted all these years
but finally gave up the ghost this summer so I bought their replacement
motor and all is well again. I've probably replaced the window glass a
dozen times over the years.

 Mine is free standing and always ready to use.  It is used frequently and
every time I use it I'm reminded of the reason I originally built it, the
restoration of a 63 spitfire :)

I don't know what I'd do without it.

Brad
Merry Christmas everyone :)


On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 3:53 PM Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net> wrote:

> I built my blasting cabinet based on plans from TP Tools. I later built
> a closed box that latches onto the side for larger/longer items.
>
> Being set up & ready to go at all times means I use it often. It's as
> simple as hooking up the air line and flipping a switch for the light. I
> also added a cyclone separator between the cabinet & my shop vac. This
> helps keep the view from being obscured by the dust cloud and helps the
> shop vac's filter last longer.
>
> Aluminum Oxide is available in various grits and seems to be fairly long
> lasting (but all media eventually breaks down and needs replacement).
> Recycled ground glass (available from TP Tools and likely others) works
> well and seems to have less dust. It might be a good 'all purpose'
> media. Walnut shells is great for fine cleaning - like carburetors. Be
> sure to clean out the cabinet before changing media - especially when
> going from coarse to fine. BTW, be careful using glass beads - when (not
> if) they are spilled it's like walking on icy grease!
>
> An assortment of rubber plugs/corks will protect threaded holes. A layer
> or two of duct tape will protect machined surfaces. Cleaning rusty
> threaded parts is fun - after blasting they'll often turn by hand.
>
> --
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
> On 12/26/2020 2:05 PM, Darrell Walker wrote:
> > I=E2=80=99m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast
> cabinet.  I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but that =
is
> about all the space I=E2=80=99m willing to allocate, and it should handle=
 most of
> what I would be looking at blasting.
> >
> > So a some questions for the list:
> >
> > 1.  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself using it
> more than you expected?  My first project would be cleaning up some
> suspension parts (mostly paint removal).  I think enough projects come
> along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surprised
> to find additional uses.
> >
> > 2.  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?  I would mostly
> be removing paint, and some surface rust.
> >
> > 3.  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfaces
> (threaded holes, tapers, etc).  How careful do you need to be to protect
> those areas?  And what if the best way to do that?  One of the parts will
> be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.  I=E2=80=99m thinking that=
 wrapping
> that area in duct tape might be a good idea.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > -Darrell
> >
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Like Eric, about 35 years ago I built one of the TP T=
ools blasting cabinet kits made from 3/4&quot; plywood and it&#39;s been wo=
rking great all these years.=C2=A0 At the same time I also bought their vac=
uum kit and built a dedicated vacuum from two 30 gallon drums.=C2=A0 The va=
cuum motor lasted all these years but finally gave up the ghost this summer=
 so I bought their replacement motor and all is well again. I&#39;ve probab=
ly replaced the window glass a dozen times over the years.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div=
><div><br></div><div>=C2=A0Mine is free standing and always ready to use.=
=C2=A0 It is used frequently and every time=C2=A0I use it I&#39;m reminded =
of the reason I originally built it, the restoration of a 63 spitfire :)</d=
iv><div><br></div><div>I don&#39;t know what I&#39;d do without it.</div><d=
iv><br></div><div>Brad</div><div>Merry Christmas everyone :)</div><div><br>=
</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">=
On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 3:53 PM Eric Russell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:ejrussel=
l@mebtel.net">ejrussell@mebtel.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote clas=
s=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid r=
gb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">I built my blasting cabinet based on plan=
s from TP Tools. I later built <br>
a closed box that latches onto the side for larger/longer items.<br>
<br>
Being set up &amp; ready to go at all times means I use it often. It&#39;s =
as <br>
simple as hooking up the air line and flipping a switch for the light. I <b=
r>
also added a cyclone separator between the cabinet &amp; my shop vac. This =
<br>
helps keep the view from being obscured by the dust cloud and helps the <br=
>
shop vac&#39;s filter last longer.<br>
<br>
Aluminum Oxide is available in various grits and seems to be fairly long <b=
r>
lasting (but all media eventually breaks down and needs replacement). <br>
Recycled ground glass (available from TP Tools and likely others) works <br=
>
well and seems to have less dust. It might be a good &#39;all purpose&#39; =
<br>
media. Walnut shells is great for fine cleaning - like carburetors. Be <br>
sure to clean out the cabinet before changing media - especially when <br>
going from coarse to fine. BTW, be careful using glass beads - when (not <b=
r>
if) they are spilled it&#39;s like walking on icy grease!<br>
<br>
An assortment of rubber plugs/corks will protect threaded holes. A layer <b=
r>
or two of duct tape will protect machined surfaces. Cleaning rusty <br>
threaded parts is fun - after blasting they&#39;ll often turn by hand.<br>
<br>
-- <br>
Eric Russell<br>
Mebane, NC<br>
<br>
On 12/26/2020 2:05 PM, Darrell Walker wrote:<br>
&gt; I=E2=80=99m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blas=
t cabinet.=C2=A0 I realize the small size will limit what I can blast, but =
that is about all the space I=E2=80=99m willing to allocate, and it should =
handle most of what I would be looking at blasting.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; So a some questions for the list:<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; 1.=C2=A0 For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself us=
ing it more than you expected?=C2=A0 My first project would be cleaning up =
some suspension parts (mostly paint removal).=C2=A0 I think enough projects=
 come along that it would be worth having one, but I would love to be surpr=
ised to find additional uses.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; 2.=C2=A0 What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?=C2=A0 I wo=
uld mostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; 3.=C2=A0 The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined surfac=
es (threaded holes, tapers, etc).=C2=A0 How careful do you need to be to pr=
otect those areas?=C2=A0 And what if the best way to do that?=C2=A0 One of =
the parts will be a strut tube, which includes the stub axle.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=
=99m thinking that wrapping that area in duct tape might be a good idea.<br=
>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Thanks!<br>
&gt; -Darrell<br>
&gt;<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
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et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" rel=3D"norefer=
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<br>
</blockquote></div></div><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><=
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To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
 <CAAoSWGOpb4Va7R3FdhjMFPs20cHxeccg95b2OBBiqGbCZ-vyHg@mail.gmail.com>
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 09:16:01 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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For those on the list that think it sure would be nice to have a blast 
cabinet of any sort, but don't have space for even a small one, you can 
do what I did when I lived in an apartment and make one out of a box and 
a sheet of plexiglass.Â  I used a box about 18x18x24 and taped three of 
the flaps up, leaving a long one down for my arms.Â  I taped a piece of 
24x30 plexiglass to the top.

Bought a cheap sand blaster hoper/gun setup from Sears.Â  Here is an option:
https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html

Used it out in the driveway with gloves and a respirator - too much dust 
for in the garage.Â  Given the ultra fine silica dust, a respirator is 
important - you need more than a dust mask.Â  Sifted the used play sand 
with a mesh baseball cap to reuse.

Worked great for my TR6 suspension bits and folded up under an inch 
thick.Â  Didn't have a compressor, so ran it off partially empty scuba 
tanks fed through a portable air tank.

Hopefully this some of the space or finance limited list members that 
there are resourceful ways to do things like sandblasting.

Brian

> On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 2:06 PM Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com 
>
>
>     Iâ€™m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top blast
>     cabinet.Â  I realize the small size will limit what I can blast,
>     but that is about all the space Iâ€™m willing to allocate, and it
>     should handle most of what I would be looking at blasting.
>
>     So a some questions for the list:
>
>     1.Â  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself
>     using it more than you expected?Â  My first project would be
>     cleaning up some suspension parts (mostly paint removal).Â  I think
>     enough projects come along that it would be worth having one, but
>     I would love to be surprised to find additional uses.
>
>     2.Â  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?Â  I would
>     mostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.
>
>     3.Â  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined
>     surfaces (threaded holes, tapers, etc).Â  How careful do you need
>     to be to protect those areas?Â  And what if the best way to do
>     that?Â  One of the parts will be a strut tube, which includes the
>     stub axle.Â  Iâ€™m thinking that wrapping that area in duct tape
>     might be a good idea.
>
>     Thanks!
>     -Darrell
>
>     -- 
>     Darrell Walker
>     66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
>     81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
>     Vancouver, WA, USA
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donationÂ  $12.96
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
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>
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>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    For those on the list that think it sure would be nice to have a
    blast cabinet of any sort, but don't have space for even a small
    one, you can do what I did when I lived in an apartment and make one
    out of a box and a sheet of plexiglass.Â  I used a box about 18x18x24
    and taped three of the flaps up, leaving a long one down for my
    arms.Â  I taped a piece of 24x30 plexiglass to the top.<br>
    <br>
    Bought a cheap sand blaster hoper/gun setup from Sears.Â  Here is an
    option:<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html">https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html</a><br>
    <br>
    Used it out in the driveway with gloves and a respirator - too much
    dust for in the garage.Â  Given the ultra fine silica dust, a
    respirator is important - you need more than a dust mask.Â  Sifted
    the used play sand with a mesh baseball cap to reuse.<br>
    <br>
    Worked great for my TR6 suspension bits and folded up under an inch
    thick.Â  Didn't have a compressor, so ran it off partially empty
    scuba tanks fed through a portable air tank.<br>
    <br>
    Hopefully this some of the space or finance limited list members
    that there are resourceful ways to do things like sandblasting.<br>
    <br>
    Brian<br>
    <br>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAAoSWGOpb4Va7R3FdhjMFPs20cHxeccg95b2OBBiqGbCZ-vyHg@mail.gmail.com">
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 2:06
          PM Darrell Walker &lt;<a href="mailto:darrellw360@mac.com"
            moz-do-not-send="true">darrellw360@mac.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><br>
          Iâ€™m thinking of using some Christmas money on a bench top
          blast cabinet.Â  I realize the small size will limit what I can
          blast, but that is about all the space Iâ€™m willing to
          allocate, and it should handle most of what I would be looking
          at blasting.<br>
          <br>
          So a some questions for the list:<br>
          <br>
          1.Â  For those of you with blast cabinets, do you find yourself
          using it more than you expected?Â  My first project would be
          cleaning up some suspension parts (mostly paint removal).Â  I
          think enough projects come along that it would be worth having
          one, but I would love to be surprised to find additional uses.<br>
          <br>
          2.Â  What is a good all purpose, reusable media to use?Â  I
          would mostly be removing paint, and some surface rust.<br>
          <br>
          3.Â  The first parts I would be cleaning have some machined
          surfaces (threaded holes, tapers, etc).Â  How careful do you
          need to be to protect those areas?Â  And what if the best way
          to do that?Â  One of the parts will be a strut tube, which
          includes the stub axle.Â  Iâ€™m thinking that wrapping that area
          in duct tape might be a good idea.<br>
          <br>
          Thanks!<br>
          -Darrell<br>
          <br>
          -- <br>
          Darrell Walker<br>
          66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L<br>
          81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206<br>
          Vancouver, WA, USA<br>
          <br>
          _______________________________________________<br>
          <br>
          <a href="mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" target="_blank"
            moz-do-not-send="true">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>
          Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html"
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          Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk"
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          <br>
          Unsubscribe/Manage: <a
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        </blockquote>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 13:55:23 -0500
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
References: <B6EC42D6-A36C-4590-AB9C-F80801907F6B@mac.com>
 <CAAoSWGOpb4Va7R3FdhjMFPs20cHxeccg95b2OBBiqGbCZ-vyHg@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============7476554809619748696==
	boundary="=====================_19562821==.ALT"

--=====================_19562821==.ALT
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At 12:16 PM 12/27/2020, Brian wrote:

 >For those on the list that think it sure would 
be nice to have a blast cabinet of any
 >sort, but don't have space for even a small 
one, you can do what I did when I
 >lived in an apartment and make one out of a box and a sheet of plexiglass=
=2E I
 >used a box about 18x18x24 and taped three of 
the flaps up, leaving a long one
 >down for my arms. I taped a piece of 24x30 plexiglass to the top.
 >
 >Bought a cheap sand blaster hoper/gun setup from Sears.=C2  Here is an op=
tion:
 ><https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html>h=
ttps://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html
 >
 >......

Brian,

I second that.  Years ago, my guess is late 80s or early 90s there was a
company, Savings by Design, Inc., that was 
selling a cardboard blast cabinet.  I
used that for several years until Harbor Freight 
came out with a plastic table top
one.  Used those 2, the cardboard and plastic 
one, for many years and at least 2
cars.  Then a friend gave me a nice one on rollers.

I also bought a Harbor Freight pressure blaster.  Used that in the corner o=
f my
back yard.  Tied a piece of rope across the "L" 
in one corner, hung a heavy plastic
sheet acoss the rope with clothes pins.  So I had 
a nice "L" with the plastic, vertical
and then on the ground.  That way I could recover about 90 - 95% of the san=
d.
I used a piece of screen over a funnel as I 
scooped up the sand and refilled the
pressure blaster.

Check out the article I wrote on how I did it:

http://autox.team.net/morgan/tech/blasting/mediablast.html

I mention the cardboard cabinet in this article, about 1/2 way down:

http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech/art017_2.html

It's a shame that they still aren't available.  I 
don't know why they company quite selling them 
and folded, but my guess is the  plastic ones just got to competative
in price.

One note on using a Shop vac to evacuate the dust from the cabinet.  Put a
couple of inches of water in the bottom of the vac.  This will help keep fr=
om
clogging the filter so quickly.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
Bricklin:     www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction




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<html>
<body>
<font size=3D3>At 12:16 PM 12/27/2020, Brian wrote:<br><br>
&gt;For those on the list that think it sure would be nice to have a
blast cabinet of any <br>
&gt;sort, but don't have space for even a small one, you can do what I
did when I <br>
&gt;lived in an apartment and make one out of a box and a sheet of
plexiglass.  I <br>
&gt;used a box about 18x18x24 and taped three of the flaps up, leaving a
long one <br>
&gt;down for my arms.  I taped a piece of 24x30 plexiglass to the
top.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;Bought a cheap sand blaster hoper/gun setup from Sears.=C2&nbsp; Here
is an option:<br>
&gt;<a href=3D"https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-=
37025.html">
https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html</a>
<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;......<br><br>
Brian,<br><br>
I second that.&nbsp; Years ago, my guess is late 80s or early 90s there
was a <br>
company, Savings by Design, Inc., that was selling a cardboard blast
cabinet.&nbsp; I <br>
used that for several years until Harbor Freight came out with a plastic
table top <br>
one.&nbsp; Used those 2, the cardboard and plastic one, for many years
and at least 2 <br>
cars.&nbsp; Then a friend gave me a nice one on rollers.<br><br>
I also bought a Harbor Freight pressure blaster.&nbsp; Used that in the
corner of my<br>
back yard.&nbsp; Tied a piece of rope across the &quot;L&quot; in one
corner, hung a heavy plastic<br>
sheet acoss the rope with clothes pins.&nbsp; So I had a nice
&quot;L&quot; with the plastic, vertical <br>
and then on the ground.&nbsp; That way I could recover about 90 - 95% of
the sand.<br>
I used a piece of screen over a funnel as I scooped up the sand and
refilled the<br>
pressure blaster.<br><br>
Check out the article I wrote on how I did it:<br><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/morgan/tech/blasting/mediablast.html" eudo=
ra=3D"autourl">
http://autox.team.net/morgan/tech/blasting/mediablast.html<br><br>
</a>I mention the cardboard cabinet in this article, about 1/2 way
down:<br><br>
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech/art017_2.html" eudora=3D"aut=
ourl">
http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech/art017_2.html<br><br>
</a>It's a shame that they still aren't available.&nbsp; I don't know why
they company quite selling them and folded, but my guess is the&nbsp;
plastic ones just got to competative <br>
in price.<br><br>
One note on using a Shop vac to evacuate the dust from the cabinet.&nbsp;
Put a <br>
couple of inches of water in the bottom of the vac.&nbsp; This will help
keep from <br>
clogging the filter so quickly.<br><br>
John<br>
</font><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
<br /><br />
<hr style=3D'border:none; color:#909090; background-color:#B0B0B0; height: =
1px; width: 99%;' />
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			<p style=3D'color:#3d4d5a; font-family:"Calibri","Verdana","Arial","Helv=
etica"; font-size:12pt;'>
				This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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</table>
<br />
<a href=3D"#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width=3D"1" height=3D"1">=
 </a></div></body>
<br>
<div>John T. Blair&nbsp; WA4OHZ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; email:&nbsp;
jblair1948@cox.net</div>
<div>Va. Beach,
Va&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Phone:&nbsp; (757) 495-8229</div>
<br>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48
TR1800&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 48 #4 Midget&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 65 Morgan 4/4
Series V (B1106)</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
77 Spitfire&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 71 Saab Sonett III</div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
65 Rambler Classic</div>
<br>
<div>Morgan:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/morgan" EUDORA=3DAUTOURL>
www.team.net/morgan</a></div>
<div>Bricklin:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href=3D"http://www.bricklin.org/" EUDORA=3DAUTOURL>www.bricklin.org</a>
</div>
<br>
<div>If you can read
this&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;
- Thank a teacher!</div>
<div>If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!</div>
<br>
<div> From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; e pluribus Unum, &quot;from many,
one.&quot;</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In God We Trust</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Liberty - the&nbsp; power&nbsp; of&nbsp;
choosing,&nbsp; thinking,&nbsp; and&nbsp; acting&nbsp; for&nbsp; </div>
<div>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
oneself; freedom&nbsp; from&nbsp; control&nbsp; or&nbsp;
restriction&nbsp; </div>
<br>
<br>
</html>

--=====================_19562821==.ALT--


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_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive



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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 27 12:26:52 2020
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 11:25:54 -0800
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To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

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From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 23:34:35 -0500
To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Blast cabinet, media
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

--===============2281984222669445331==

--000000000000c09aa205b77ecabd
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I, too, built a free-standing cabinet about 15 years ago, using TP Tools
parts and plans.  I've used it a lot over the years, and I'm quite happy
with it:

http://31ford.dougbraun.com/blast_cabinet

Wow, my garage was so much cleaner back then, before I did a lot of
painting...

Doug

On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 2:27 PM Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com> wrote:

>
> Thanks for all of the blast cabinet advice!
>
> Regarding building one, I actually found a YouTube video about making one
> from a large plastic storage container.  And the TP Tools plans look good=
,
> too.  But in this case, I=E2=80=99m willing to outsource, rather than tak=
e on
> another project.
>
> Anyway, I=E2=80=99ve settled on the larger bench top unit that Eastwood s=
ells.  It
> is almost as large as some freestanding units, and seems to have more
> sloped bottom than some other table top models.
>
> I=E2=80=99m going to try some glass bead media initially, since it can be=
 used on
> a variety of parts, and I=E2=80=99m removing more paint that rust.
>
> I do plan to use a shop vac with it.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> -Darrell
>
>
> --
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/doug@dougbraun.com
>
>

--000000000000c09aa205b77ecabd
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>I, too, built a free-standing cabinet about 15 years =
ago, using TP Tools parts and plans.=C2=A0 I&#39;ve used it a lot over the =
years, and I&#39;m quite happy with it:</div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D=
"http://31ford.dougbraun.com/blast_cabinet">http://31ford.dougbraun.com/bla=
st_cabinet</a></div><div><br></div><div>Wow, my garage was so much cleaner =
back then, before I did a lot of painting... <br></div><div><br></div><div>=
Doug<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 2:27 PM Darrell Walker &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:darrellw360@mac.com">darrellw360@mac.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div=
><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border=
-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><br>
Thanks for all of the blast cabinet advice!<br>
<br>
Regarding building one, I actually found a YouTube video about making one f=
rom a large plastic storage container.=C2=A0 And the TP Tools plans look go=
od, too.=C2=A0 But in this case, I=E2=80=99m willing to outsource, rather t=
han take on another project.<br>
<br>
Anyway, I=E2=80=99ve settled on the larger bench top unit that Eastwood sel=
ls.=C2=A0 It is almost as large as some freestanding units, and seems to ha=
ve more sloped bottom than some other table top models.<br>
<br>
I=E2=80=99m going to try some glass bead media initially, since it can be u=
sed on a variety of parts, and I=E2=80=99m removing more paint that rust.<b=
r>
<br>
I do plan to use a shop vac with it.<br>
<br>
Thanks again!<br>
<br>
-Darrell<br>
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
Darrell Walker<br>
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L<br>
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206<br>
Vancouver, WA, USA<br>
<br>
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