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From: Hans <sukaspit@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2013 12:17:41 -0700
To: Comcast-spitfirecars <spitfirecars@comcast.net>, spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfires Digest, Vol 7, Issue 48
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

 Hmmm, why not shave the existing head  0.050"?


Sent from my iPad

On Aug 31, 2013, at 12:17 PM, Comcast-spitfirecars <spitfirecars@comcast.net>
wrote:

> Nope that is incorrect. Also, 1300 engines always had flat tops. Variation
in factory 1300 CR comes from different heads
>
> Flat top pistons alone take a 7.5:1 1500 to 8.4:1. To get 9:1 you also need
a smaller head chamber, which you get with the TKC1155 (European market) or
TKC2748 (North American market 1976 model Spitfire) heads, which are shaved
about 0.050" thinner than other 1500 heads (like the TKC 3239, 1409 and
1410).
>
> If you want more detailed actual data and measurements, then I have it--let
me know if you want some and I'll forward it  You could also try taking
several engines apart and making your own measurements or talk to someone else
who also has direct experience (e.g., Ted Schumacher, Kas Kastner)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 29, 2013, at 5:56 PM, Hans <sukaspit@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> According to Moss, their pistons raise the ratio to 9:1 for the 1500 .
8.4:1 is for the Spit 1300, I think.
>> .
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Aug 28, 2013, at 4:28 AM, Comcast-spitfirecars
<spitfirecars@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Just a friendly note to say that you are not going to get anywhere near an
additional 20hp just by switching from dished to flat top pistons alone, which
only raises CR from 7.5:1 to 8.4:1.
>>>
>>> Should be fine wrt NOx
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Aug 26, 2013, at 2:00 PM, spitfires-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>>>
>>>> Send Spitfires mailing list submissions to
>>>> spitfires@autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>>>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>>> spitfires-request@autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>>> spitfires-owner@autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>>>> than "Re: Contents of Spitfires digest..."
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Today's Topics:
>>>>
>>>> 1. High compression pistons and smog test (Hans)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Message: 1
>>>> Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 17:14:21 -0700
>>>> From: Hans <sukaspit@gmail.com>
>>>> To: spitfires@autox.team.net
>>>> Subject: [Spits] High compression pistons and smog test
>>>> Message-ID: <356B6E8E-7020-4D5B-A0DF-9188CA7C22E8@gmail.com>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>>>>
>>>> I am rebuilding my California  1976 spitfire's engine and considering
using
>>>> Moss's HC flat top pistons instead of the LC (dished) ones. I have been
told
>>>> that I risk failing the NOx  smog test max requirement. I understand that
this
>>>> is due to the combustion chamber's temperature potentially exceeding
2500
>>>> degrees , which generates NOx. Assuming the EGR to function perfectly and
the
>>>> fuel mixture to a bit rich, is this still potentially a high risk
problem?
>>>> There must be a few a guys out there that have been tempted to do this to
get
>>>> the nearly 20 extra  hp. That is so badly needed.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Spitfires mailing list
>>>> Spitfires@autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> End of Spitfires Digest, Vol 7, Issue 48
>>>> ****************************************
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  1 16:40:37 2013
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From: Comcast-spitfirecars <spitfirecars@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2013 18:34:35 -0400
To: Hans <sukaspit@gmail.com>
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Cc: "spitfires@autox.team.net" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfires Digest, Vol 7, Issue 48
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Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Indeed!  That works with flat tops in a 1500 to give you 9:1. Much easier to
get a TKC3239 and shave it than find a TKC2748 or TKC1155. TKC 1409 and 1410
have air injection ports in the exhausts but they are simple to plug. I like
using TKC3239 or 218139 or 218143 heads and shaving appropriately.  Moreover,
if you want even higher CR, then just shave the head some more. Note that
9.5:1 to 10:1 is about the limit on a Spitfire engine with ordinary, open-loop
ignition (i.e, no knock-sensing with dynamic retard) and pump gasoline and a
moderate cam (less than 280 degrees overlap) to avoid pre-detonation.

Here's some more info here, including a CR head shaving calculator and some
info about various heads:

http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/performance_enhancements.htm

Good luck and enjoy your Spitfire

Paul

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 1, 2013, at 3:17 PM, Hans <sukaspit@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> Hmmm, why not shave the existing head  0.050"?
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 31, 2013, at 12:17 PM, Comcast-spitfirecars
<spitfirecars@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Nope that is incorrect. Also, 1300 engines always had flat tops. Variation
in factory 1300 CR comes from different heads
>>
>> Flat top pistons alone take a 7.5:1 1500 to 8.4:1. To get 9:1 you also need
a smaller head chamber, which you get with the TKC1155 (European market) or
TKC2748 (North American market 1976 model Spitfire) heads, which are shaved
about 0.050" thinner than other 1500 heads (like the TKC 3239, 1409 and
1410).
>>
>> If you want more detailed actual data and measurements, then I have it--let
me know if you want some and I'll forward it  You could also try taking
several engines apart and making your own measurements or talk to someone else
who also has direct experience (e.g., Ted Schumacher, Kas Kastner)
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 29, 2013, at 5:56 PM, Hans <sukaspit@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> According to Moss, their pistons raise the ratio to 9:1 for the 1500 .
8.4:1 is for the Spit 1300, I think.
>>> .
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On Aug 28, 2013, at 4:28 AM, Comcast-spitfirecars
<spitfirecars@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just a friendly note to say that you are not going to get anywhere near
an additional 20hp just by switching from dished to flat top pistons alone,
which only raises CR from 7.5:1 to 8.4:1.
>>>>
>>>> Should be fine wrt NOx
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On Aug 26, 2013, at 2:00 PM, spitfires-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Send Spitfires mailing list submissions to
>>>>> spitfires@autox.team.net
>>>>>
>>>>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>>>>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>>>> spitfires-request@autox.team.net
>>>>>
>>>>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>>>> spitfires-owner@autox.team.net
>>>>>
>>>>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>>>>> than "Re: Contents of Spitfires digest..."
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Today's Topics:
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. High compression pistons and smog test (Hans)
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>> Message: 1
>>>>> Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 17:14:21 -0700
>>>>> From: Hans <sukaspit@gmail.com>
>>>>> To: spitfires@autox.team.net
>>>>> Subject: [Spits] High compression pistons and smog test
>>>>> Message-ID: <356B6E8E-7020-4D5B-A0DF-9188CA7C22E8@gmail.com>
>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>>>>>
>>>>> I am rebuilding my California  1976 spitfire's engine and considering
using
>>>>> Moss's HC flat top pistons instead of the LC (dished) ones. I have been
told
>>>>> that I risk failing the NOx  smog test max requirement. I understand
that this
>>>>> is due to the combustion chamber's temperature potentially exceeding
2500
>>>>> degrees , which generates NOx. Assuming the EGR to function perfectly
and the
>>>>> fuel mixture to a bit rich, is this still potentially a high risk
problem?
>>>>> There must be a few a guys out there that have been tempted to do this
to get
>>>>> the nearly 20 extra  hp. That is so badly needed.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Spitfires mailing list
>>>>> Spitfires@autox.team.net
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> End of Spitfires Digest, Vol 7, Issue 48
>>>>> ****************************************
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 13:18:31 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Spitfire list'" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2013 15:14:31 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6oEJlR+sfjRgqrSOmNOqF+e540YA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Spits] CT Triumph Gathering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers - Just a reminder that the Connecticut Triumph Register will be
holding our 33rd Annual Gathering of British Motorcars this coming Sunday,
September 8th at Wickham Park in Manchester, Conn. Please visit our website
at  <http://www.CTriumph.com> http://www.CTriumph.com  for details. A
registration form can be downloaded from the website. This is a participant
- judged gathering and hasn't been rained out yet in the previous 32 years.
Hope to see you there. Thanks.

 

Sorry if this is a repeat - the first version didn't go through this
morning.

 

Alex Thomson

Treasurer, CTR
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 19:01:16 2013
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2013 20:59:38 -0400
From: "Joe Guinan" <spitfirejoe@email.com>
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
x-registered: 0
Subject: Re: [Spits] High compression pistons and smog test
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

What am I missing here? B I was under the assumption that the 1976 Spits all had flat top pistons - yeilding higher compression. B Were the California Spits different? The info provided on the heads by others responding seems correct according to my notes. B Is it possible this is a 1975 or 1977 Spit titled as a 1976? B Do the wheels have the "squared oval" holes or the round ones? B I believe the squared oval holes only came on the 1976 Spits (and some other Triumph... Marina?) B Maybe the engine was blown up and replaced by a previous owner?

At any rate, I think you would probably have no trouble running flat top pistons - whether or not you shave the head, but especially if you don't.

Joe Guinan
Fremont, NE
NASS Member #31
spitfirejoe@email.com
------------------------------Original Message------------------------------

> >>>> Message: 1
> >>>> Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 17:14:21 -0700
> >>>> From: Hans <sukaspit@gmail.com>
> >>>> To: spitfires@autox.team.net
> >>>> Subject: [Spits] High compression pistons and smog test
> >>>> Message-ID: <356B6E8E-7020-4D5B-A0DF-9188CA7C22E8@gmail.com>
> >>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> >>>>
> >>>> I am rebuilding my California 1976 spitfire's engine and considering using
> >>>> Moss's HC flat top pistons instead of the LC (dished) ones. I have been told
> >>>> that I risk failing the NOx smog test max requirement. I understand that this
> >>>> is due to the combustion chamber's temperature potentially exceeding 2500
> >>>> degrees , which generates NOx. Assuming the EGR to function perfectly and the
> >>>> fuel mixture to a bit rich, is this still potentially a high risk problem?
> >>>> There must be a few a guys out there that have been tempted to do this to get
> >>>> the nearly 20 extra hp. That is so badly needed.
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 19:16:01 2013
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2013 21:06:30 -0400
From: "Joe Guinan" <spitfirejoe@email.com>
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
x-registered: 0
Subject: [Spits] Road America Vintage Festival this coming weekend
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

If you are anywhere near Elkart Lake, Wisconsin - you should make the drive there this weekend. B Sounds like we have about 70 Triumph race cars coming for the Vintage Racing Festival at Road America under the auspices of the VSCDA.

The North American Spitfire Squadron is having a small "Spit-Together" at the event. B Any and all Spitfires or GT6's or Triumphs or Triumph enthusiasts are welcome to come along on some of our drives and be part of the show at the "Gathering On The Green". B Ahhh... actually, I think it's too late to register for the Gathering. B But you can drive your car into town and watch the parade and then walk around looking at the cars.

Great event - Kas Kastner is a "featured guest" for the event, and several notable Triumph racers from the glory days will be present. B Contact me if you need more info.


Joe Guinan
Fremont, NE
NASS Member #31
spitfirejoe@email.com
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From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  2 19:31:49 2013
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Joe Guinan wrote:
> If you are anywhere near Elkart Lake, Wisconsin - you should make the drive there this weekend. B Sounds like we have about 70 Triumph race cars coming for the Vintage Racing Festival at Road America under the auspices of the VSCDA.
>

I know!  I am getting pretty anxious to attend this year's Kastner Cup, 
should be a GOOD time.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
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From: Hans <sukaspit@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 21:01:18 -0700
To: Comcast-spitfirecars <spitfirecars@comcast.net>,
	"spitfires@autox.team.net" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfires Digest, Vol 7, Issue 48
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

That is a great website,  "Paul Geitner's Spitfire" --- a treasure of
information for new spit owners -- thanks so much.
Please note though,  the piston spec. table under "Torque and Power" specifies
a 9.0:1 c. ratio for flat top cylinders for the fed. 1976 Spits such I have
with a CKT2648 head







Sent from my iPad

On Sep 1, 2013, at 3:34 PM, Comcast-spitfirecars <spitfirecars@comcast.net>
wrote:

> Indeed!  That works with flat tops in a 1500 to give you 9:1. Much easier to
get a TKC3239 and shave it than find a TKC2748 or TKC1155. TKC 1409 and 1410
have air injection ports in the exhausts but they are simple to plug. I like
using TKC3239 or 218139 or 218143 heads and shaving appropriately.  Moreover,
if you want even higher CR, then just shave the head some more. Note that
9.5:1 to 10:1 is about the limit on a Spitfire engine with ordinary, open-loop
ignition (i.e, no knock-sensing with dynamic retard) and pump gasoline and a
moderate cam (less than 280 degrees overlap) to avoid pre-detonation.
>
> Here's some more info here, including a CR head shaving calculator and some
info about various heads:
>
> http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/performance_enhancements.htm
>
> Good luck and enjoy your Spitfire
>
> Paul
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 1, 2013, at 3:17 PM, Hans <sukaspit@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hmmm, why not shave the existing head  0.050"?
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Aug 31, 2013, at 12:17 PM, Comcast-spitfirecars
<spitfirecars@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Nope that is incorrect. Also, 1300 engines always had flat tops. Variation
in factory 1300 CR comes from different heads
>>>
>>> Flat top pistons alone take a 7.5:1 1500 to 8.4:1. To get 9:1 you also
need a smaller head chamber, which you get with the TKC1155 (European market)
or TKC2748 (North American market 1976 model Spitfire) heads, which are shaved
about 0.050" thinner than other 1500 heads (like the TKC 3239, 1409 and
1410).
>>>
>>> If you want more detailed actual data and measurements, then I have
it--let me know if you want some and I'll forward it  You could also try
taking several engines apart and making your own measurements or talk to
someone else who also has direct experience (e.g., Ted Schumacher, Kas
Kastner)
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Aug 29, 2013, at 5:56 PM, Hans <sukaspit@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> According to Moss, their pistons raise the ratio to 9:1 for the 1500 .
8.4:1 is for the Spit 1300, I think.
>>>> .
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On Aug 28, 2013, at 4:28 AM, Comcast-spitfirecars
<spitfirecars@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Just a friendly note to say that you are not going to get anywhere near
an additional 20hp just by switching from dished to flat top pistons alone,
which only raises CR from 7.5:1 to 8.4:1.
>>>>>
>>>>> Should be fine wrt NOx
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>
>>>>> On Aug 26, 2013, at 2:00 PM, spitfires-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Send Spitfires mailing list submissions to
>>>>>> spitfires@autox.team.net
>>>>>>
>>>>>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>>>>>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>>>>> spitfires-request@autox.team.net
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>>>>> spitfires-owner@autox.team.net
>>>>>>
>>>>>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>>>>>> than "Re: Contents of Spitfires digest..."
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Today's Topics:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 1. High compression pistons and smog test (Hans)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Message: 1
>>>>>> Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 17:14:21 -0700
>>>>>> From: Hans <sukaspit@gmail.com>
>>>>>> To: spitfires@autox.team.net
>>>>>> Subject: [Spits] High compression pistons and smog test
>>>>>> Message-ID: <356B6E8E-7020-4D5B-A0DF-9188CA7C22E8@gmail.com>
>>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I am rebuilding my California  1976 spitfire's engine and considering
using
>>>>>> Moss's HC flat top pistons instead of the LC (dished) ones. I have been
told
>>>>>> that I risk failing the NOx  smog test max requirement. I understand
that this
>>>>>> is due to the combustion chamber's temperature potentially exceeding
2500
>>>>>> degrees , which generates NOx. Assuming the EGR to function perfectly
and the
>>>>>> fuel mixture to a bit rich, is this still potentially a high risk
problem?
>>>>>> There must be a few a guys out there that have been tempted to do this
to get
>>>>>> the nearly 20 extra  hp. That is so badly needed.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> Spitfires mailing list
>>>>>> Spitfires@autox.team.net
>>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> End of Spitfires Digest, Vol 7, Issue 48
>>>>>> ****************************************
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From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  4 19:48:08 2013
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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>, Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] A little travelin' music, Sam
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I'll be out of town for a few days, so if the lists blow up or something 
you'll
just have to thumb your twiddles until I get back.  I'll be at the 
Elkhart Lake
Vintage Festival hanging with the Triumph guys, Kastner Cup and all that.
Should be fun, be back monday afternoon.

mjb.
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From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  6 11:39:18 2013
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2013 13:35:59 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Spits] Rear Hub tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

I really need to change the oil seals in my Spit's rear hubs.  (Grease is
getting on the brakes).
Of course I need the special hub removal tool.  What's the best way to get
my hands on one of these (either buy or borrow)?

Thanks,

Doug
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  6 12:03:56 2013
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From: "Bill Gingerich" <wrgingerich@gmail.com>
To: "'Doug Braun'" <doug@dougbraun.com>, "'Spitfire Group'"
	<spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOtbU9VARTex68SaPpq2dNJ4B1HTk17ETyDgq0Xo4hqv2O4GHg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2013 13:03:46 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear Hub tool
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Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Where are you Doug?

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Braun
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 12:36 PM
To: Spitfire Group
Subject: [Spits] Rear Hub tool

Hello,

I really need to change the oil seals in my Spit's rear hubs.  (Grease is
getting on the brakes).
Of course I need the special hub removal tool.  What's the best way to get
my hands on one of these (either buy or borrow)?

Thanks,

Doug
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/wrgingerich@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep  6 12:10:00 2013
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2013 14:05:19 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Bill Gingerich <wrgingerich@gmail.com>
Cc: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear Hub tool
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Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm in Princeton NJ.

Doug


On Fri, Sep 6, 2013 at 2:03 PM, Bill Gingerich <wrgingerich@gmail.com>wrote:

> Where are you Doug?
>
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Braun
> Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 12:36 PM
> To: Spitfire Group
> Subject: [Spits] Rear Hub tool
>
> Hello,
>
> I really need to change the oil seals in my Spit's rear hubs.  (Grease is
> getting on the brakes).
> Of course I need the special hub removal tool.  What's the best way to get
> my hands on one of these (either buy or borrow)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Spitfires@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  7 20:22:27 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2013 21:22:23 -0500
Subject: [Spits] removing oil pan
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Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

75 spitfire

put in a header and a weber

apparently the clearance between the engine and the frame, even with the
engine mounts loosened, was not quite enough.  required a little help.

not such a good idea; you can see on the header the oil, which of course makes
for extra fun while driving.  the leak clearly is right at the joint b
thatbs where the stain starts on the header.

I figure I need to remove the oil pan, possibly straighten it, and put in a
new gasket.

any big deal?  just drain the oil, unbolt the thing, and then the reverse?
torque in any particular order?  anyone know the spec?

just a little gun shy b when I was a teenager I attempted to remove the
oilpan on a slant 6 chrysler, and found that between the steering rack (I
think) and the frame, the oil pan would not come out.  I believe I had to
cancel a date that night because then I had no car.  or at least postpone it.
did not put me in her good stead.  she married someone else . . .
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	2013 18:39:33 -0400
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2013 17:39:45 -0500
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
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To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
References: <519AA3E11B08441E9C13ED4B37072293@Datsun>
Cc: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] removing oil pan
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Hi Dave,

You can drop the oil pan without a lot of work.  You will have to make 
sure the crank throws are horizontal so the pan will clear the crank.

Torque is 16 to 18 lb ft.   I tighten them in about 3 steps and go back 
an forth across the oil pan so I'm not tightening one side at a time.  
Then I go around in a circle to double check the torque and to make sure 
I didn't skip one somehow.

Roger

On 09/07/2013 09:22 PM, Dave wrote:
> 75 spitfire
>
> put in a header and a weber
>
> apparently the clearance between the engine and the frame, even with the
> engine mounts loosened, was not quite enough.  required a little help.
>
> not such a good idea; you can see on the header the oil, which of course makes
> for extra fun while driving.  the leak clearly is right at the joint b
> thatbs where the stain starts on the header.
>
> I figure I need to remove the oil pan, possibly straighten it, and put in a
> new gasket.
>
> any big deal?  just drain the oil, unbolt the thing, and then the reverse?
> torque in any particular order?  anyone know the spec?
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2013 03:52:27 -0400
From: "Joe Guinan" <spitfirejoe@email.com>
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
x-registered: 0
Subject: Re: [Spits] removing oil pan
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not sure what you are trying to say you did to "help" get some clearance. B However, lots of times, putting a Weber on reveals leaks that were not noticeable before. B When I put a DGV on my Spit, oil started spurting out the dip stick tube.I guess with the different fittings, the intake was not sucking out enough fumes from the crankcase and enough blowby was getting by the rings to pressurize the block. B This may be your problem too, and you may not have inadvertenly broken the seal between block and oil pan. B What Weber did you put on? B DGV or DCOE? B Both can result in the same leaks occuring.

Anyway, to answer your question... B  People have changed crank and rod bearings with the engine in the car, so "Yes" you can remove the oil pan. B You might have to turn the crankshaft a bit to let the pan wiggle out - depends on where the connecting rod throws are. B 1/4 to 1/2 a turn should be enough if the pan is hitting the crank when you try to remove the pan. B You may find it easier to lift the engine a bit to get the oil pan out. Once out, clean the surfaces, put on the new gasket with sealer on both sides (one side at a time of course...) and re-install. B I tend to always tighten bolts in a "star pattern". B One on the right front, then one on the left rear, then one on the left front, then one on the right rear and so on. B Slightly snug first, then a little tighter, then fully tight. B I could look up the spec, but loose is loose, tight is tight, and overtight breaks bolts. B As long as you don't just start on one bolt and go around the engine tightening them all the way, you are probably not going to have problems.

Then you can run it again and see if new leaks develop. B If not - problem solved! B If there are leaks, we can talk about ideas for eliminating crankcase pressures.


Joe Guinan (just back from the Kastner Cup at Road America in Wisconsin)
Fremont, NE
NASS Member #31
spitfirejoe@email.com

> ----- Original Message -----

> Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2013 21:22:23 -0500
> From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
> To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Spits] removing oil pan
> Message-ID: <519AA3E11B08441E9C13ED4B37072293@Datsun>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> 75 spitfire
> 
> put in a header and a weber
> 
> apparently the clearance between the engine and the frame, even with the
> engine mounts loosened, was not quite enough. required a little help.
> 
> not such a good idea; you can see on the header the oil, which of course makes
> for extra fun while driving. the leak clearly is right at the joint b
> thatbs where the stain starts on the header.
> 
> I figure I need to remove the oil pan, possibly straighten it, and put in a
> new gasket.
> 
> any big deal? just drain the oil, unbolt the thing, and then the reverse?
> torque in any particular order? anyone know the spec?
> 
> just a little gun shy b when I was a teenager I attempted to remove the
> oilpan on a slant 6 chrysler, and found that between the steering rack (I
> think) and the frame, the oil pan would not come out. I believe I had to
> cancel a date that night because then I had no car. or at least postpone it.
> did not put me in her good stead. she married someone else . . .
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Spitfires mailing list
> Spitfires@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 
> 
> End of Spitfires Digest, Vol 7, Issue 57
> ****************************************
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 10 15:11:37 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <20130909075227.32430@gmx.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2013 15:01:29 -0500
Subject: Re: [Spits] removing oil pan
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

well, I pulled the pan, cleaned it, painted it, put in a new gasket, and 
reinstalled.  oil is indeed coming out the dip stick tube.  all that work 
may have been for nought!

can I relieve that oil pressure somwhere/somehow?

I replaced the filter and added 5 qts of oil - was that too much? 
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<2836039A8F7442A9BEC2907BE8088439@Datsun>
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2013 17:21:22 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] removing oil pan
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

How much gas is coming out of the dipstick tube?
Try putting a rubber glove or balloon over the tube and see if there is
enough gas to inflate it.
Also, if you remove the oil filler cap (thus providing another place for
gas to exit), does oil
stop coming out of the dipstick tube?

Doug


On Tue, Sep 10, 2013 at 4:01 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> well, I pulled the pan, cleaned it, painted it, put in a new gasket, and
> reinstalled.  oil is indeed coming out the dip stick tube.  all that work
> may have been for nought!
>
> can I relieve that oil pressure somwhere/somehow?
>
> I replaced the filter and added 5 qts of oil - was that too much?
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Spitfires@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/spitfires/doug@**dougbraun.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/doug@dougbraun.com>
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<2836039A8F7442A9BEC2907BE8088439@Datsun>
From: Michael Altomare <maltomar@bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2013 17:22:23 -0400
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: "<spitfires@autox.team.net>" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] removing oil pan
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

When this happened to me on my  '77 with the 32/36 DGV Weber, I made a
blanking plate for the mechanical fuel pump (I was running an electric fuel
pump with a pressure regulator) and added a threaded hose fitting and a hose
with a PCV and connected it to the intake manifold. At first I ran it to the
carb, but that got the carb too dirty. It ran great when I went to the
manifold.

Michael
from my iPhone 5

On Sep 10, 2013, at 4:01 PM, "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> well, I pulled the pan, cleaned it, painted it, put in a new gasket, and
reinstalled.  oil is indeed coming out the dip stick tube.  all that work may
have been for nought!
>
> can I relieve that oil pressure somwhere/somehow?
>
> I replaced the filter and added 5 qts of oil - was that too much?
_______________________________________________
>
> Spitfires@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/maltomar@bellsouth.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 19:39:08 +0000 (UTC)
From: George Parker <george.parker2012@comcast.net>
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Spits] removing oil pan
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Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Isn't the sump capacity only 4 quarts?



Is your charcoal canister (if you have one) clogged?B  That could also cause
elevated pressure inside the block.



My thoughts for today....


v/r,

George P.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
Subject: Re: [Spits] removing oil pan

well, I pulled the pan, cleaned it, painted it, put in a new gasket, and
reinstalled. B oil is indeed coming out the dip stick tube. B all that work
may have been for nought!

can I relieve that oil pressure somwhere/somehow?

I replaced the filter and added 5 qts of oil - was that too much?
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Bill Gingerich" <wrgingerich@gmail.com>
To: "'George Parker'" <george.parker2012@comcast.net>,
	<spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1378922402.18288.spitfires@autox.team.net>
	<1791551406.2124799.1378928348252.JavaMail.root@sz0079a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 15:03:32 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6vKKyfa81TJhfZRtKs8BQ6UCJ0mQAAOn8w
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Spits] removing oil pan
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Mine takes about 4.5 qts with a Motorcraft FL1A filter.

BillG


-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Parker
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 2:39 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] removing oil pan

Isn't the sump capacity only 4 quarts?



Is your charcoal canister (if you have one) clogged?B  That could also cause
elevated pressure inside the block.



My thoughts for today....


v/r,

George P.
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 12 20:11:02 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 22:10:54 -0400
From: "Joe Guinan" <spitfirejoe@email.com>
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
x-registered: 0
Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfires Digest, Vol 7, Issue 59
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It's possible that we are dealing with excessive "blowby" in the engine - combustion gasses getting by worn rings and pressurizing the crankcase.

When I put a DGV on my 1980 Spit, it blew a lot of oil out the dipstick onto the header. I drilled a hole into the outer side of the manifold plenum below the carb - there is a spot there that looks like it was designed for it. I tapped this hole and put a hose barb into it. Then I ran a hose from the valve cover vent tube to this hose bar. I put a "T" fitting in the hose and ran another hose up to the charcoal cannisters to vent my fuel tank. Problem solved, but it does introduce oily fumes to the intake, and gums up the valves a bit. A "separator" cannister plumbed into the main hose helps get some of the oily fumes out, and then has to be drained periodically.

After rebuilding the engine, I installed twin side draft Dell'Orto DHLA carbs on the car (like the Weber DCOE). I have NO idea if the venting solution I used before is still needed, but I have put two smaller hose barbs into the manifold anyway. There are perfect spots in the two outer manifold branches for these holes. The rest of the plumbing is basically the same. I have photos of these modifications. If you need to see them, let me know.

The trick of replacing the fuel pump with an electric one, using a blanking plate to cover the hole in the block, and drilling that plate to accept another hose barb stikes me as a good one. This gives you two separate places to suck the excess pressure out of the block. I've kept the original style mechanical fuel pump so far, but have an electric one to install sometime.


Joe Guinan
Fremont, NE
spitfirejoe@email.com
NASS Member #31 
(Join the North American Spitfire Sqaudron at http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/nass/)
spitfirejoe@email.com
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2013 15:01:29 -0500
> From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
> To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Spits] removing oil pan
> Message-ID: <2836039A8F7442A9BEC2907BE8088439@Datsun>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
> 
> well, I pulled the pan, cleaned it, painted it, put in a new gasket, and 
> reinstalled. oil is indeed coming out the dip stick tube. all that work 
> may have been for nought!
> 
> can I relieve that oil pressure somwhere/somehow?
> 
> I replaced the filter and added 5 qts of oil - was that too much? 

Joe Guinan
Fremont, NE
NASS Member #31
spitfirejoe@email.com
(Please trim your NASS Email messages)
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Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 20 21:18:27 2013
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 19:44:28 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>, Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Team.Net changes coming soon
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The last few days you may have noticed that it might take 2, 3, 4 or 
more hours for a simple
message to one of the Team.Net lists to get posted.  There have been 
some serious network
problems happening.

I'm hoping that will change soon.  On tuesday, Sep. 24th, a local 
Comcast contractor will be
installing broadband cable.  After 20+ years of DSL based networking, 
I'm going to give cable
a try.  There will be a few days of testing, setting up, getting the 
hang of it and such, but I
hope to have Team.Net running on a network that should be 5  - 10 times 
faster than the current
DSL service.

There will be periods of downtime during the switch, the IP addresses 
involved will be changing
and it takes time for these changes to propagate around the world. I'll 
provide more immediate
notice of service interruptions as they come up, try not to leave all 
you loyal subscribers hanging
for too long.

It should be a change for the better, we shall see.

mjb.
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