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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 16:19:00 -0600
Subject: [Spits] 75 spitfire - no spark
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Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

it was running maybe two months ago?  been sitting outside, waiting for me to
get to it.

has a weber and header; no pollution stuff; has an allison electronic ignition
system.  Ibve had the car about a year.

has a car cover; been a lot of rain.

according to my tester, no spark.

Ibm going to order a new cap and rotor; in the mean time, how do I test back
from there to see if itbs the allison or the coil?

thanks!
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  4 16:53:24 2014
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From: Greg Rowe <growe58@hotmail.com>
To: Spitfires <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 18:48:45 -0500
References: <746571F878B341659894CFABD06B8329@Datsun>
	FILETIME=[8201D3E0:01CF09A7]
Subject: Re: [Spits] 75 spitfire - no spark
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

The coils job is to take the relatively low voltage that
comes in on the +
terminal and convert it to high voltage out the ignition wire
to the
distributor each time the coils  terminal is grounded.
The Alison units job is to ground the coils  terminal at
the exact right
time.
Obviously you cant do it at the right time or fast enough
to actually make
the engine run, but you can bypass the Alison and ground the 
side of the
coil manually and see if you get a spark out of the main ignition wire of
the
coil.  With the ignition on, remove
the end of ignition wire from the
distributor cap and hold it about an inch
from the engine with insulated
pliers wrapped in a shop rag so you dont get
shocked.  If each time you
ground the 
terminal of the coil, you get a spark jumping from the wire to
the engine, your
coil is working.
To the best of my knowledge, the Alison unit is a black box
and cannot be
tested any further than making sure that the wires are properly
connected, the
shutter is seated and the optical trigger is properly
mounted.  The fact that
you call it an Alison
and not a Crane Cam means it 20+ years old and may have
simply died.  Mine stopped working earlier this year and
Crane Cams offered to
test it for free however does not honor Alisons lifetime
warranty so it
seemed (pardon the awful pun)  pointless.
Good luck!
Greg


> From: dave@ranteer.com
> To: spitfires@autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 16:19:00 -0600
> Subject: [Spits] 75 spitfire - no spark
>
> it was running maybe two months ago?  been sitting outside, waiting for me
to
> get to it.
>
> has a weber and header; no pollution stuff; has an allison electronic
ignition
> system.  Ibve had the car about a year.
>
> has a car cover; been a lot of rain.
>
> according to my tester, no spark.
>
> Ibm going to order a new cap and rotor; in the mean time, how do I test
back
> from there to see if itbs the allison or the coil?
>
> thanks!
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 23:13:56 2014
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From: Dennis Reese <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2014 22:08:13 -0800
To: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Spits] Wheel Brg. questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

I decided to completely redo the front suspension on my 1500. Just about
finished but....I can't get the new calipers to fit and I'm guessing that the
bearing seal is wrong and therefore the hub isn't seated properly and forcing
the rotor against the outer edge of the caliper. You can probably tell I don't
know what I'm talking about so expert input is needed here. Should the felt
face the bearing? What would happen if I ditch the metal cup and just use the
felt? The cup is slightly larger than the hub.

Thanks,
Dennis Reese
75 Spitfire 1500
69 VW
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  9 23:29:14 2014
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To: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <535A94C3-BF96-42F0-B19E-52B67F7CEFC7@wavecable.com>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Wheel Brg. questions
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Dennis Reese wrote:
> I decided to completely redo the front suspension on my 1500. Just about
> finished but....I can't get the new calipers to fit and I'm guessing that the
> bearing seal is wrong and therefore the hub isn't seated properly and forcing
> the rotor against the outer edge of the caliper. You can probably tell I don't
> know what I'm talking about so expert input is needed here. Should the felt
> face the bearing? What would happen if I ditch the metal cup and just use the
> felt? The cup is slightly larger than the hub.
>

The felt should face towards the center of the car, it should be the part
that rubs against the upright.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 06:54:16 2014
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References: <535A94C3-BF96-42F0-B19E-52B67F7CEFC7@wavecable.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 07:42:34 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Dennis Reese <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
Cc: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Wheel Brg. questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

I did that job about 10 years ago, and I seem to remember having the same
sort of trouble.  I might even have cut the new felt away from the metal
shell and glued it to the old shells.  Compare the thickness of the old and
new shells (if they weren't completely destroyed when they were removed).

Doug


On Fri, Jan 10, 2014 at 1:08 AM, Dennis Reese <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>wrote:

> I decided to completely redo the front suspension on my 1500. Just about
> finished but....I can't get the new calipers to fit and I'm guessing that
> the
> bearing seal is wrong and therefore the hub isn't seated properly and
> forcing
> the rotor against the outer edge of the caliper. You can probably tell I
> don't
> know what I'm talking about so expert input is needed here. Should the felt
> face the bearing? What would happen if I ditch the metal cup and just use
> the
> felt? The cup is slightly larger than the hub.
>
> Thanks,
> Dennis Reese
> 75 Spitfire 1500
> 69 VW
> _______________________________________________
>
> Spitfires@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/doug@dougbraun.com
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	<001201cf0e24$51833ac0$f489b040$@com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 12:48:02 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Wheel Brg. questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

I an assure you that this is not the only situation where repro seals
aren't made to thee correct specifications...

Doug


On Fri, Jan 10, 2014 at 11:52 AM, Bill Gingerich <wrgingerich@gmail.com>wrote:

> I had the same issue when I did my '74 ten plus years back.  I cut the felt
> out and used the old shells.  Probably 35,000 miles since then.  No
> problems
> that I can see.
>
> BillG
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 10 12:54:47 2014
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From: Garry Hamblin <garry_hamblin@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 12:41:53 -0600
References: <535A94C3-BF96-42F0-B19E-52B67F7CEFC7@wavecable.com>
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To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Cc: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Wheel Brg. questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

If you are having fit problems with your brake discs in relation to the brake
calipers, you almost certainly have the dust seal the wrong way around.  The
felt on the seal goes against the suspension upright, not towards the
bearings.
Pull out the seal and replace it with another inserted the other way round.
If you are gentle enough removing them, you may even be able to reuse them.
You may find that the felt material has wicked up a lot of bearing grease
however, so dont be surprised of you have to buy new seals.  No big deal,
they are cheap enough.
I have made this mistake myself, as I am sure have many others.  Easy fix
though.
Good luck.
Garry Hamblin


On Jan 10, 2014, at 11:48 AM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> I an assure you that this is not the only situation where repro seals
> aren't made to thee correct specifications...
>
> Doug
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 10, 2014 at 11:52 AM, Bill Gingerich
<wrgingerich@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> I had the same issue when I did my '74 ten plus years back.  I cut the
felt
>> out and used the old shells.  Probably 35,000 miles since then.  No
>> problems
>> that I can see.
>>
>> BillG
> _______________________________________________
>
> Spitfires@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/garry_hamblin@mac.com
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Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 17:41:50 -0500
From: Dan Parrott <parrotthead01@comcast.net>
To: Spitfire list <spitfires@autox.team.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1389393711;
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	ya5CEWyxYu5AQ==
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire spotted!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Just now watching a new show on the IFC channel called "The Spoils of Babylon." The main character is shown diving an Inca Yellow square-tailed Spitfire.  However, in keeping with the intentionally - cheesy dialog and filming standards, all on the road shots are of a yellow Spitfire slot car on a miniature film set! 
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From: Dennis Reese <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2014 21:30:16 -0800
To: Bill Gingerich <wrgingerich@gmail.com>, Spitfire Group
	<spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <535A94C3-BF96-42F0-B19E-52B67F7CEFC7@wavecable.com>
	<CAOtbU9ULfWmgwO7o0a=qTMj=MDcz3R4y2ThLpMyK=Lom6p+_kQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<001201cf0e24$51833ac0$f489b040$@com>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Wheel Brg. questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all who offered input. Problem solved and I would add a cautionary
note to any others who might do this: don't throw any old stuff away! Cutting
the felt out of the new shells and gluing into the old worked perfectly. The
old (I assume the original) shells are much heavier metal and about 2mm
smaller in diameter than the new ones as well as being less wide and thus can
be tapped into the hubs easily. The attached pictures tell the story;

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpg which had a name of DSC_0501.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpg which had a name of DSC_0502.jpg]
The reworked suspension looks so good I almost hate to drive it!

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpg which had a name of DSC_0500.jpg]
On Jan 10, 2014, at 8:52 AM, Bill Gingerich wrote:

> I had the same issue when I did my '74 ten plus years back.  I cut the felt
> out and used the old shells.  Probably 35,000 miles since then.  No
problems
> that I can see.
>
> BillG
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Braun
> Sent: Friday, January 10, 2014 6:43 AM
> To: Dennis Reese
> Cc: Spitfire Group
> Subject: Re: [Spits] Wheel Brg. questions
>
> I did that job about 10 years ago, and I seem to remember having the same
> sort of trouble.  I might even have cut the new felt away from the metal
> shell and glued it to the old shells.  Compare the thickness of the old and
> new shells (if they weren't completely destroyed when they were removed).
>
> Doug
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 10, 2014 at 1:08 AM, Dennis Reese
> <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>wrote:
>
>> I decided to completely redo the front suspension on my 1500. Just
>> about finished but....I can't get the new calipers to fit and I'm
>> guessing that the bearing seal is wrong and therefore the hub isn't
>> seated properly and forcing the rotor against the outer edge of the
>> caliper. You can probably tell I don't know what I'm talking about so
>> expert input is needed here. Should the felt face the bearing? What
>> would happen if I ditch the metal cup and just use the felt? The cup
>> is slightly larger than the hub.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Dennis Reese
>> 75 Spitfire 1500
>> 69 VW
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 11 14:48:24 2014
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From: Dennis Reese <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2014 12:18:05 -0800
To: customercare@longmotor.net, Spitfire Group
  <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Spits] Customer Contact From Victoria British Website
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Not long ago I purchased two wheel bearing kits for my 75 spitfire 1500 your
p/n 5-925. In the process of installing using the original hubs and your kit,
it became apparent that the supplied oil seal wasn't going to work. The metal
shell diameter is slightly larger than the hub diameter and therefore cannot
be inserted in the hub. It is also made of very thin metal that will easily
deform under any kind of pressure either from a press or by tapping with a
hammer. Apparently this has happened to other spitfire owners as several
responded to my plea for advice by saying that I should cut the felt out of
the supplied seal and glue it into the original shells. I did that and it
worked but the fact remains that you are apparently selling a part that won't
fit the original hubs (maybe new hubs are slightly different?). Most of us
know to not throw away original parts just for this reason and garages are
full of them. I've attached a couple of pictures for your information.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpg which had a name of DSC_0501.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpg which had a name of DSC_0502.jpg]
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 11 21:08:03 2014
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From: "Nick Moseley" <nmoseley@telus.net>
To: "'Spitfire Group'" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <E7FE915E-787C-4431-97A9-015E9D13E23B@wavecable.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2014 19:58:43 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8PFohzwPvQkksfSqysgAlqUmUEYAAM+Riw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Spits] Customer Contact From Victoria British Website
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Well put Dennis, and well down for giving some valuable feedback.
Best Regards
Nick Moseley

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Reese
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2014 12:18 PM
To: customercare@longmotor.net; Spitfire Group
Subject: [Spits] Customer Contact From Victoria British Website

Not long ago I purchased two wheel bearing kits for my 75 spitfire 1500 your
p/n 5-925. In the process of installing using the original hubs and your
kit, it became apparent that the supplied oil seal wasn't going to work. The
metal shell diameter is slightly larger than the hub diameter and therefore
cannot be inserted in the hub. It is also made of very thin metal that will
easily deform under any kind of pressure either from a press or by tapping
with a hammer. Apparently this has happened to other spitfire owners as
several responded to my plea for advice by saying that I should cut the felt
out of the supplied seal and glue it into the original shells. I did that
and it worked but the fact remains that you are apparently selling a part
that won't fit the original hubs (maybe new hubs are slightly different?).
Most of us know to not throw away original parts just for this reason and
garages are full of them. I've attached a couple of pictures for your
information.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpg which had a name of
DSC_0501.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpg which had a name of
DSC_0502.jpg] _______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/nmoseley@telus.net

__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 9279 (20140111) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com






__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 9279 (20140111) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 13 15:17:40 2014
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 13:08:27 -0500
From: "Joe Guinan" <spitfirejoe@email.com>
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
x-registered: 0
Subject: Re: [Spits] Customer Contact From Victoria British Website
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Good job on at least trying to let them know of a problem wit their product. I await - with bated breath - any actual reply from VB/LMC. I really don't think they care. I used to buy some stuff from them, because I travelled through the Kansas City area somewhat regularly and could save shipping costs. Now I only use BPNW, SpitBits, and TSI. When anyone I've communicated with actually had problems with any of their parts, they WANTED to hear about it, and wanted to make sure they corrected the problem. You may pay a tiny bit more for their parts, but that expense is paid for by not having to deal with problems like you experienced. Still, little things get by everyone once in a while. A parts producer could change specs without letting anyone know, etc.

Joe Guinan
Fremont, NE
spitfirejoe@email.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------

> Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2014 12:18:05 -0800
> From: Dennis Reese <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
> To: customercare@longmotor.net, Spitfire Group
> <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Spits] Customer Contact From Victoria British Website
> 
> Not long ago I purchased two wheel bearing kits for my 75 spitfire 1500 your
> p/n 5-925. In the process of installing using the original hubs and your kit,
> it became apparent that the supplied oil seal wasn't going to work. The metal
> shell diameter is slightly larger than the hub diameter and therefore cannot
> be inserted in the hub. It is also made of very thin metal that will easily
> deform under any kind of pressure either from a press or by tapping with a
> hammer. Apparently this has happened to other spitfire owners as several
> responded to my plea for advice by saying that I should cut the felt out of
> the supplied seal and glue it into the original shells. I did that and it
> worked but the fact remains that you are apparently selling a part that won't
> fit the original hubs (maybe new hubs are slightly different?). Most of us
> know to not throw away original parts just for this reason and garages are
> full of them. I've attached a couple of pictures for your information.
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 13 22:14:49 2014
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 17:59:09 -0500
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Customer Contact From Victoria British Website
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Given that various vendors have been selling the same incorrect part for at
least a decade,  I would not hold out too much hope.
The usual reply in these situations is "nobody ever complained before".

BTW, this sort of thing happens much more frequently for Ford Model A
parts....

Doug

On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 1:08 PM, Joe Guinan <spitfirejoe@email.com> wrote:

> Good job on at least trying to let them know of a problem wit their
> product. I await - with bated breath - any actual reply from VB/LMC. I
> really don't think they care. I used to buy some stuff from them, because I
> travelled through the Kansas City area somewhat regularly and could save
> shipping costs. Now I only use BPNW, SpitBits, and TSI. When anyone I've
> communicated with actually had problems with any of their parts, they
> WANTED to hear about it, and wanted to make sure they corrected the
> problem. You may pay a tiny bit more for their parts, but that expense is
> paid for by not having to deal with problems like you experienced. Still,
> little things get by everyone once in a while. A parts producer could
> change specs without letting anyone know, etc.
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 02:08:00 2014
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 16:56:34 -0600
Subject: [Spits] pertronix
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

hi.  have a 75 spit; was converted to allison ignition which is pretty dead.
I want to order a pertronix, but it appears there are numerous choices.

how do I choose????
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 14:57:32 2014
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <486BF4EAEA6A42FB917D9FB1F0CFB1C4@Datsun>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 07:53:29 -0500
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQDGuhfcWnY0l8j/I3K1Do4MkQtDPJyWbIQA
Subject: Re: [Spits] pertronix
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a Crane Cam XR700 ignition system on our 71 GT6 MKIII and it has been
perfect. Don't know if they are still available. With whatever system you
choose, follow the wiring diagrams exactly. If the unit needs a full 12V,
don't feed it with the existing ignition ballast resistor or resistance
wire.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 5:57 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] pertronix

hi.  have a 75 spit; was converted to allison ignition which is pretty dead.
I want to order a pertronix, but it appears there are numerous choices.

how do I choose????
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/aljlthomson@charter.net
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 15 23:55:34 2014
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From: "Nick Moseley" <nmoseley@telus.net>
To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <486BF4EAEA6A42FB917D9FB1F0CFB1C4@Datsun>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 10:43:27 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8R0Z3HlBv0y/z2TXupfkN0X6tjJwAT+eWQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Spits] pertronix
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave, (I assume that is your name...)
The best way is to order based on the distributor that is actually in your
car, as opposed to the one with which it was originally fitted.
Most distributors have the maker name and model numbers stamped on the
outside. For the Lucas ones, it is often on the side that faces the engine,
so you might have to free off the securing fitting and turn the dizzy until
you can see it. Sometimes a mirror helps.
Having had some experience of getting Pertronix units that did not fit the
distributor I had ordered it for, you might consider getting one of the
units for sale that include a new dizzy along with the, fitted, electronic
ignition. Sometimes these can be had for as little as $160. or so, and
considering the age of the original dizzy and its related parts and springs,
the price difference and value of all new parts make this the smarter long
term buy. It also means you could convert the one you have now back to
points, and keep it as a spare in case of problems with the new one.
Just my opinion...
Nick Moseley

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:57 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] pertronix

hi.  have a 75 spit; was converted to allison ignition which is pretty dead.
I want to order a pertronix, but it appears there are numerous choices.

how do I choose????




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From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 16 06:01:13 2014
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From: Greg Rowe <growe58@hotmail.com>
To: Spitfires <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2014 19:52:58 -0500
References: <486BF4EAEA6A42FB917D9FB1F0CFB1C4@Datsun>
	FILETIME=[4D3C6EC0:01CF1255]
Subject: Re: [Spits] pertronix
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

I
replaced my dead Crane unit with a Pertronix about a year ago.  I didnt
remember there being any difficulty
with determining which Pertronix to get,
however there was a lot of confusion
about the right ignition coil.  You may
already know this but if not, it may help.
Pertronix
talks about 1.5ohm and 3 ohm coils which correspond to 6 volt and 12
volt coils
(the 12 volt necessarily has more windings which results in the
higher resistance).  Depending on what year/model you have, your
spitfire may
have come originally with either a 6 volt or a 12 volt coil.  In addition, it
may have been changed by a
previous owner so double check.
Both
coils put out the same voltage out of the ignition wire to the
distributor, the
difference is the voltage that they need to operate, the
amount that should be
seen on the + terminal.  You may wonder
why Triumph
would use a 6 volt coil in a 12 volt system and that is because
when you are
starting, the heavy draw of the starter (and lack of alternator
charging)
reduces the available voltage below 12 volts.  You get a hotter spark to
assist with the
difficult task of firing the engine by temporarily overloading
a 6 volt coil
than underloading a 12 volt one.
So
normally a 12 volt coil gets 12 volts (nominally) ALL the time on its +
terminal.  The 6 volt gets the full 12
volts when cranking and then only 6
volts (through either a ballast resistor or
ballast wire) when running.
What
does all this have to do with the Pertronix unit?  When you install the
Pertronix, it will tell
you to hook up the red wire at the + terminal of the
coil and the black wire at
the - terminal.  It will also tell you
that you
need a 3.0 ohm coil, e.g. 12 volts. 
No one that Ive spoken with is really
sure, but it appears that
Pertronix is saying that their unit needs a constant
12 volts to operate.  The coil is a convenient place to take it
from even
though youre really just using a common junction, theres nothing
magical
about the 12 volts at the coil as compared with anywhere else (although
you do
want it to be switched in synch with the ignition).  And I cant think of
anything special about
the   terminal, the Pertronix is just grounding the
coil so it produces a spark
and I dont see how the unit could care whether
the coil is 3 ohms or 1.5.  So what I did was leave the 6 volt coil in
place
and take a 12 volt source for the red wire from the Pertronix from the
remnants of the factory electronic ignition.  So far thats worked.  Ive also
heard that some folks have just run
the Pertronix on 6 volts and it seems to
work but whether it shortens its life,
who can say?
So
bottom line:

If
you have a 12 volt coil and no ballast wire, you are good
to go.


If
you have a 6 volt coil and a ballast wire, you can


-      
Bypass the ballast and replace the coil with a 12 volt (lose
advantage of hotter spark when starting)


-      
Keep the 6 volt and find another 12 volt ignition source for the
Pertronix (not recommended by them but seems to work)


-      
Keep the 6 volt, hook up to 6 volts and see if it actually makes a
difference (uncharted waters).

I
hope this helps.  Good luck with it! Greg Rowe
 > From: dave@ranteer.com
> To: spitfires@autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 16:56:34 -0600
> Subject: [Spits] pertronix
>
> hi.  have a 75 spit; was converted to allison ignition which is pretty
dead.
> I want to order a pertronix, but it appears there are numerous choices.
>
> how do I choose????
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 16 18:50:41 2014
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From: "Bill Gingerich" <wrgingerich@gmail.com>
To: "'Greg Rowe'" <growe58@hotmail.com>, "'Spitfires'"
	<spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <486BF4EAEA6A42FB917D9FB1F0CFB1C4@Datsun>
	<BLU182-W523524706871B0037B9EB7AAB90@phx.gbl>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2014 10:01:02 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Spits] pertronix
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net

FWIW, I put a Pertronics in my '74 (Delco dist) about 10 years ago.  I left
the existing coil, and hooked up the Pertronics directly to the coil.  It
has seemed to function fine since then.  YMMV, etc.

BillG

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Rowe
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 6:53 PM
To: Spitfires
Subject: Re: [Spits] pertronix

I
replaced my dead Crane unit with a Pertronix about a year ago.  I didnt
remember there being any difficulty with determining which Pertronix to get,
however there was a lot of confusion about the right ignition coil.  You may
already know this but if not, it may help.
Pertronix
talks about 1.5ohm and 3 ohm coils which correspond to 6 volt and 12 volt
coils (the 12 volt necessarily has more windings which results in the higher
resistance).  Depending on what year/model you have, your spitfire may have
come originally with either a 6 volt or a 12 volt coil.  In addition, it may
have been changed by a previous owner so double check.
Both
coils put out the same voltage out of the ignition wire to the distributor,
the difference is the voltage that they need to operate, the amount that
should be seen on the + terminal.  You may wonder why Triumph would use a 6
volt coil in a 12 volt system and that is because when you are starting, the
heavy draw of the starter (and lack of alternator
charging)
reduces the available voltage below 12 volts.  You get a hotter spark to
assist with the difficult task of firing the engine by temporarily
overloading a 6 volt coil than underloading a 12 volt one.
So
normally a 12 volt coil gets 12 volts (nominally) ALL the time on its +
terminal.  The 6 volt gets the full 12 volts when cranking and then only 6
volts (through either a ballast resistor or ballast wire) when running.
What
does all this have to do with the Pertronix unit?  When you install the
Pertronix, it will tell you to hook up the red wire at the + terminal of the
coil and the black wire at the - terminal.  It will also tell you that you
need a 3.0 ohm coil, e.g. 12 volts.
No one that Ive spoken with is really
sure, but it appears that
Pertronix is saying that their unit needs a constant
12 volts to operate.  The coil is a convenient place to take it from even
though youre really just using a common junction, theres nothing magical
about the 12 volts at the coil as compared with anywhere else (although you
do want it to be switched in synch with the ignition).  And I cant think of
anything special about the   terminal, the Pertronix is just grounding the
coil so it produces a spark and I dont see how the unit could care whether
the coil is 3 ohms or 1.5.  So what I did was leave the 6 volt coil in place
and take a 12 volt source for the red wire from the Pertronix from the
remnants of the factory electronic ignition.  So far thats worked.  Ive
also heard that some folks have just run the Pertronix on 6 volts and it
seems to work but whether it shortens its life, who can say?
So
bottom line:

If
you have a 12 volt coil and no ballast wire, you are good to go.


If
you have a 6 volt coil and a ballast wire, you can


-
Bypass the ballast and replace the coil with a 12 volt (lose advantage of
hotter spark when starting)


-
Keep the 6 volt and find another 12 volt ignition source for the Pertronix
(not recommended by them but seems to work)


-
Keep the 6 volt, hook up to 6 volts and see if it actually makes a
difference (uncharted waters).

I
hope this helps.  Good luck with it! Greg Rowe  > From: dave@ranteer.com
> To: spitfires@autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 16:56:34 -0600
> Subject: [Spits] pertronix
>
> hi.  have a 75 spit; was converted to allison ignition which is pretty
dead.
> I want to order a pertronix, but it appears there are numerous choices.
>
> how do I choose????
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/wrgingerich@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

