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From: Dennis Reese <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2014 11:09:53 -0700
To: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Spits] Brake system?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I have just finished with new brakes all around on my 75 Spit. Everything
seems to be OK, but I have very little to "no" pedal. Goes to the floor and
after a couple of pumps the car stops - sort of. What am I missing? New master
cylinder? If so, which. Moss and VB both seem to sell the Lucas/TRW variety
for something like $200 and another aftermarket thing for about $100 less.

Rest assured I am not out on the highway with this thing  -- just up and down
our 1/2 mile driveway.

Any advice is always appreciated.

Dennis Reese
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
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Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2014 11:12:55 -0700
From: Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
To: Dennis Reese <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
Cc: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Brake system?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Did you check out the PDWA? When I rebuilt the brakes on my mum's '78 I
found out the hard way that the rubber in it was too far gone.


On Sat, Jun 28, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Dennis Reese <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
wrote:

> I have just finished with new brakes all around on my 75 Spit. Everything
> seems to be OK, but I have very little to "no" pedal. Goes to the floor and
> after a couple of pumps the car stops - sort of. What am I missing? New
> master
> cylinder? If so, which. Moss and VB both seem to sell the Lucas/TRW variety
> for something like $200 and another aftermarket thing for about $100 less.
>
> Rest assured I am not out on the highway with this thing  -- just up and
> down
> our 1/2 mile driveway.
>
> Any advice is always appreciated.
>
> Dennis Reese
> _______________________________________________
>
> Spitfires@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/jodyfkerr@gmail.com
>



-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from
the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2014 00:05:16 +0000 (UTC)
From: Donald H Locker <dhlocker@comcast.net>
To: Dennis Reese <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
References: <3E6954F2-B5E5-4257-BDC6-0AC0A9F6D9F5@wavecable.com>
Thread-Topic: Brake system?
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Cc: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Brake system?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hello, Dennis.

Brakes are pretty simple systems, so look for fluif [sic] going where it shouldn't, air in the pipes, or oil on the pads/rotors/drums and you will find the problem.

Of course, clean and grease-free friction surfaces are a must; from your note, this doesn't sound like an issue as the brakes do work after pumping.

If you eventually get some pedal firmness after pumping a bit, the most likely problem is air in the pipes. This requires bleeding to correct. If you've bled from all four corners and still have a soft pedal, I would recommend doing it again, but using a different technique. Use a three-foot/one metre length of clear vinyl tube and raise it high instead of putting it down into a catch bottle. Watch the air in the fluid rise in the tube as you pump the pedal gently. When no more bubbles rise, you can close the bleed screw. Because the fluid in the tube keeps air away from the bleed screw, you don't have to have one person operating the pedal and one working the bleed screw. The presence of the bubbles (to my old eyes, at least) is much more clear with the vinyl tube.

It is also possible, if this is a recent rebuild, that the brakes are not yet adjusted. The fronts are self adjusting, and the pads will move to the rotor and establish their operating position with a few real actuations. If the rears are not well-adjusted, they can reduce total performance, but not as much as the front. If both are out, you will have some trouble for a while. Try pumping up the pressure several times and see if the pedal improves before going out for the next drive. Then make sure the rears are correctly adjusted.

The PDWA is often blamed for brake problems - if it leaks fluid to the outside world, that is a problem. Otherwise, it really can't affect braking performance. It is a high-pressure differential pressure switch. If the pressure on the front circuit is significantly different that the pressure in the back circuit, the switch turns on the light. The shuttle moves, but DOES NOT change anything in the hydraulics.

Hope this helps.
Donald.

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dennis Reese" <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
> To: "Spitfire Group" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2014 2:09:53 PM
> Subject: [Spits] Brake system?
> 
> I have just finished with new brakes all around on my 75 Spit. Everything
> seems to be OK, but I have very little to "no" pedal. Goes to the floor and
> after a couple of pumps the car stops - sort of. What am I missing? New
> master
> cylinder? If so, which. Moss and VB both seem to sell the Lucas/TRW variety
> for something like $200 and another aftermarket thing for about $100 less.
> 
> Rest assured I am not out on the highway with this thing  -- just up and down
> our 1/2 mile driveway.
> 
> Any advice is always appreciated.
> 
> Dennis Reese
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Spitfires@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/dhlocker@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

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From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:30 2018
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From: "Bill Gingerich" <wrgingerich@gmail.com>
To: "'Dennis Reese'" <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>, "'Spitfire Group'"
 <spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <3E6954F2-B5E5-4257-BDC6-0AC0A9F6D9F5@wavecable.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2014 22:45:54 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Spits] Brake system?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Several others have mentioned re-bleeding the system.  One thing that I've
used that helps with bleeding is Speedbleeders.  www.speedbleeder.com.  It's
a bleed screw with a check valve built in.  The check valve only allows
fluid and air out.  It won't allow stuff to be sucked back in when the pedal
is released.  Makes bleeding a one person task.  Worth the $8 or so per
wheel.  Sorry I don't recall which part number, but they know it.

Also be sure to bleed in the correct order - furthest wheel first.  Do right
rear, left rear, right front, left front.

BillG '74 Spit


-----Original Message-----
From: Spitfires [mailto:spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Dennis Reese
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2014 1:10 PM
To: Spitfire Group
Subject: [Spits] Brake system?

I have just finished with new brakes all around on my 75 Spit. Everything
seems to be OK, but I have very little to "no" pedal. Goes to the floor and
after a couple of pumps the car stops - sort of. What am I missing? New
master cylinder? If so, which. Moss and VB both seem to sell the Lucas/TRW
variety for something like $200 and another aftermarket thing for about $100
less.

Rest assured I am not out on the highway with this thing  -- just up and
down our 1/2 mile driveway.

Any advice is always appreciated.

Dennis Reese
_______________________________________________

Spitfires@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/wrgingerich@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:32 2018
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From: "Dennis Reese"<dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
To: "'Spitfire Group'"<spitfires@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2014 11:32:53 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Brakes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Consensus seems to be that I need to continue bleeding.  So I did -- no air bubbles,  same result. While I hate the thought of starting over the only thing that isn't new is the master. Does that sound reasonable? 

Sent from my MOTOROLA BRAVOb" on Consumer Cellular
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From spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:32 2018
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Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2014 14:48:47 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Dennis Reese <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
Cc: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spits] Brakes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Is the "tipping valve" at the rear of the M/C properly put together?
This is open when the pedal is up, to allow the reservoir to communicate
with the cylinder, and
it closes as soon as you press the pedal, so that pressure can build up in
the cylinder.

Normally, a bad seal anywhere will allow fluid to leak out onto the ground
(or your foot!), but
a bad tipping valve will allow the fluid to leak back into the reservoir.

In any case, make sure you check EVERYWHERE for a leak!
Is fluid being used up as you try to use the brakes?

Doug


On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 2:32 PM, Dennis Reese <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>
wrote:

> Consensus seems to be that I need to continue bleeding.  So I did -- no
> air bubbles,  same result. While I hate the thought of starting over the
> only thing that isn't new is the master. Does that sound reasonable?
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Bill Gingerich" <wrgingerich@gmail.com>
To: "'Dennis Reese'" <dennis_reese@wavecable.com>, "'Spitfire Group'"
 <spitfires@autox.team.net>
References: <8f4f170b-eacb-44bc-b784-7db5420c604f@blur>
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2014 14:00:58 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Spits] Brakes
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Status: RO

I'd say try rebuilding the master cylinder.  The kits are cheap, and it's
not a hard job.  

BillG


-----Original Message-----
From: Spitfires [mailto:spitfires-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Dennis Reese
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2014 1:33 PM
To: 'Spitfire Group'
Subject: [Spits] Brakes

Consensus seems to be that I need to continue bleeding.  So I did -- no air
bubbles,  same result. While I hate the thought of starting over the only
thing that isn't new is the master. Does that sound reasonable? 
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