From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 17 18:34:08 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas Pedal stop on eBay
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Hey Al! Nice piece, I broke several throttle cables trying to put the pedal 
to the metal before I found I was missing the stop. That solved the problem 
and I haven't had to get home on a shoelace since(literally).
Nick
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alexander Washick" <alw6464@gmail.com>
To: "Randy Zimmermann" <zimme008@yahoo.com>
Cc: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas Pedal stop on eBay


> Hi Randy  Yes is mounted on top of the vinyl/carpet and I suspect that is
> why so many are missing. You have to locate those 2 10/32 weld nuts 
> through
> the carpet to it in the regular position.    Dave   Thank you for the
> nice compliment.   Al
>
> On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 3:29 PM, Randy Zimmermann 
> <zimme008@yahoo.com>wrote:
>
>> I feel I'm falling victim to marketing principle #4 - create a market for
>> something the consumer doesn't even know they need.
>>
>>
>> Having restored a MkIa
>> back in the mid-90's, I never knew such a thing existed.  Frankly, I
>> haven't
>> had any pedal issues since it's been on the road, either.  However, I 
>> don't
>> doubt the devise is valuable and has utility.
>>
>>
>> The picture on eBay shows it
>> attached directly to the tunnel.  With my repro-carpet kit, I have a
>> section
>> of vinyl on that area.  Is this devise intended to be attached over the
>> vinyl/carper area?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Randy in Duluth
>> 67 Tiger MkIa
>> ________________________________
>>  From: Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>
>> To:
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:16 PM
>> Subject: Re:
>> [Tigers] Gas Pedal stop on eBay
>>
>> Well if there's a market someone will fill
>> it! During our conversation on the list about this essential but often 
>> lost
>> part of the throttle system, I received an email from Al Washick who was 
>> in
>> the process of reproducing these throttle stops, and he put one up on 
>> eBay
>> today:
>>
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunbeam-Tiger-Accelerator-Pedal-Stop-Reproduction-/11
>>
>> 0863344836?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19cff864c4
>> They look better than the original, what with the powder coating and ss 
>> pan
>> head screws to boot. Too bad that when mounted, you can hardly see the
>> craftsmanship!
>>
>> If you need one, here's your chance!
>>
>> The usual disclaimer
>> applies...
>>
>> Dave
>> _______________________________________________
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> http://www.team.net/archive
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>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
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> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 17 21:27:12 2012
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Thanks Micheal    That is our goal. To produce parts that are needed that
are exact reproductions at a fair price.  My son-in-law Ryan who is a
mechanical engineer (super smart guy who has worked on cars with his dad
all his life.( Chevy's unfortunately!!)and I have been car guy for ever
decided to make parts that I saw that people were paying way too much for
rusty 50 year old parts on Ebay. We have a number of items we are working
on now  and I will advise the list as they come out.  Thanks  Al

On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 7:02 PM, michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>wrote:

> I managed to acquire an original a few years back.. never installed it
> as i cant get enough leg room as it is... but still nice to have it..
> and had this been available then i would have bought it. Also i'd like
> to compliment Alexander on the pricing.. i have paid huge prices for
> repro parts that were NLA and felt that i was being put under the
> thumb in a big way... i think the stop is well priced and think is a
> great credit to alex for filling a need and helping us but not being
> greedy... thanks alex... if only you were doing this a while back!..
> maybe we should get you t make the other NLA bits that are simple but
> go for crazy $ on ebay!
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 08:34:12 2012
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 14:28:19 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
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Even though I don't like or use this particular part, I think its great that Al
has undertaken reproduction and supply for those that want it.  It looks
like a high quality part and just like original.
Thanks Al and all Tiger suppliers!!
Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: Alexander Washick <alw6464@gmail.com>
To: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
Cc: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>, tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 03:24:31 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas Pedal stop on eBay

Thanks Micheal    That is our goal. To produce parts that are needed that are exact reproductions at a fair price.  My son-in-law Ryan who is a mechanical engineer (super smart guy who has worked on cars with his dad all his life.( Chevy's unfortunately!!)and I have been car guy for ever decided to make parts that I saw that people were paying way too much for rusty 50 year old parts on Ebay. We have a number of items we are working on now  and I will advise the list as they come out.  Thanks  Al

On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 7:02 PM, michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com> wrote:
I managed to acquire an original a few years back.. never installed it

as i cant get enough leg room as it is... but still nice to have it..

and had this been available then i would have bought it. Also i'd like

to compliment Alexander on the pricing.. i have paid huge prices for

repro parts that were NLA and felt that i was being put under the

thumb in a big way... i think the stop is well priced and think is a

great credit to alex for filling a need and helping us but not being

greedy... thanks alex... if only you were doing this a while back!..

maybe we should get you t make the other NLA bits that are simple but

go for crazy $ on ebay!


--

Regards


Michael King
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 08:34:42 2012
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Subject: [Tigers] Herb Mosely
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Yesterday we learned of the passing of Tiger owner Herb Mosely.

Professionally, Herb was a technical writer who donated his skills to our
marque as CAT's Tech Editor.

Decades ago he gathered the most important of these "Tech Tips", bundling them
into CAT's Shop Notes. In it Herb created a repository for storing the
collective knowledge of Tiger owners. Herb revised Shop Notes many times over
the years, the most recent about ten years ago. I still tell new owners they
need to buy two books - the Shop Manual and Shop Notes.

But even without these contributions Herb will still be missed. He was such a
nice, generous and gentle person.

Below is an excerpt from an email I received last night from Chuck Daly. He
expresses my feelings better than I can.

Buck Trippel


Old Friends,

It is with a very heavy heart that I inform you of Herb Mosley's passing this
past April 4th.

I received an email from his wife, Henrietta, informing me that Herb is gone.

It was likely congestive heart failure as Herb had been heavily involved in
various medical treatments recently.

I don't have to tell any of you guys how impressively Herb handled and yes
"conducted" CAT's shop notes for decades.

Year in and year out, Herb likely did more for the CAT club then anyone else
and he did it with style and grace.

A cool dude with a real love of our Marque....
_______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Herb Mosely
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Buck:

That is certainly sad news, both for Herb's family and friends and the Tiger community.  His contributions to the preservation and enjoyment of our marque have been greatly appreciated over the years and he will indeed be sorely missed.

Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

---- Buck Trippel <BuckTrippel@Verizon.net> wrote: 
> Yesterday we learned of the passing of Tiger owner Herb Mosely.
> 
> Professionally, Herb was a technical writer who donated his skills to our
> marque as CAT's Tech Editor.
> 
> Decades ago he gathered the most important of these "Tech Tips", bundling them
> into CAT's Shop Notes. In it Herb created a repository for storing the
> collective knowledge of Tiger owners. Herb revised Shop Notes many times over
> the years, the most recent about ten years ago. I still tell new owners they
> need to buy two books - the Shop Manual and Shop Notes.
> 
> But even without these contributions Herb will still be missed. He was such a
> nice, generous and gentle person.
> 
> Below is an excerpt from an email I received last night from Chuck Daly. He
> expresses my feelings better than I can.
> 
> Buck Trippel
> 
> 
> Old Friends,
> 
> It is with a very heavy heart that I inform you of Herb Mosley's passing this
> past April 4th.
> 
> I received an email from his wife, Henrietta, informing me that Herb is gone.
> 
> It was likely congestive heart failure as Herb had been heavily involved in
> various medical treatments recently.
> 
> I don't have to tell any of you guys how impressively Herb handled and yes
> "conducted" CAT's shop notes for decades.
> 
> Year in and year out, Herb likely did more for the CAT club then anyone else
> and he did it with style and grace.
> 
> A cool dude with a real love of our Marque....
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers@autox.team.net
> 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 13:38:14 2012
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From: "Kirk Smith" <twotigers@verizon.net>
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Subject: [Tigers] FW: Re: Herb Mosely
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From: Kirk Smith [mailto:twotigers@verizon.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:19 AM
To: tigers-owner@autox.team.net (tigers-owner@autox.team.net)
Subject: Re: Herb Mosely

 

Sorry to hear about Herb.  Condolences to his family.  He will be missed.  

 

In addition to everything else that's been mentioned, Herb was good about
'cleaning up' the tech tips people would send in.  I appreciated his editing
skills- with a little bit of humor tossed in- to boot.  One time I sent in a
tech tip for a front chin spoiler.  I left a couple of points on the ends of
the spoiler and nicknamed the tech tip 'Saber-toothed Tiger'.  When the tech
tip appeared in Tiger Tales, Herb had added (paraphrased), "You can take
some silver spray paint and make sharks teeth across the front".  Huh?  That
wasn't anywhere in the tech tip I had sent him!  I just chuckled when I read
what he had added to the tech tip.  Still makes me smile.  RIP, Herb.

 

Kirk  
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Subject: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
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Every car guy should watch this!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded

Jay
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
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The guy must have used a huge amount of Anti-sieze. Some of the technical
information seemed off until the 'Engineer' got on the video. I love the
example 
of the anti-sieze brush as that is what both of the jars of the stuff
I have 
look like and it's gooey messy (and smelly) stuff.

I'll also bet the
guy cracked the plug when he put it in, but you never know.

Bottomline is
keep your plugs clean, inside and out as well as the boot. I am a 
huge
believer in A-S on the threads of aluminum heads, and like the guy said a
little goes a long long way. I often don't apply it to plugs if the threads
seems to have a bit left in it from the last change to avoid the good. Biggest
problem is making sure the goo doesnt get on your hands when you put in the
plugs.

I do love that the 'Steeler-ship' couldn't fix it :)

Sandy


 
________________________________
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To:
Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, April 18, 2012 12:54:59 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs

Every car guy should watch this!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded

Jay
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 14:43:46 2012
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Jay, well done,  but he should have emphasized that anti-seize is 
necessary on dissimilar metals, like an steel spark plug and an alum 
head, which is very common today.  I would have liked him to show how to 
apply the right amount of anti-seize, because all of his very good 
explanations would lead some people to not apply that at all.

Also the spark plug mnf not recommending anti-seize is beyond me.  Who 
will pay for the seized plugs to be removed from alum heads, especially 
with plugs that have a very long life, ie 30K-60K miles.

Over all very good but needed some additional explanation and 
demonstration of proper anti-seize application.

Larry

On 4/18/12 3:51 PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
> Every car guy should watch this!
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded
>
> Jay
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
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Yup.. another "don't do this at home, better pay a professional" commercial.
I have been using anti-seize on mine since my 1981 RX-7 required it... and
have never had a problem, of course you have to realize that you don't 
use too much!  Interestingly, my jar of anti-seize looks identical to his, including
the destroyed brush end!
Too much oozing down the threads?  My guess is the ham-fisted owner got it on
the insulator... the miss-fire fouled the plug.
Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Paulick <lpaulick1@verizon.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 20:43:58 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs

Jay, well done,  but he should have emphasized that anti-seize is 
necessary on dissimilar metals, like an steel spark plug and an alum 
head, which is very common today.  I would have liked him to show how to 
apply the right amount of anti-seize, because all of his very good 
explanations would lead some people to not apply that at all.

Also the spark plug mnf not recommending anti-seize is beyond me.  Who 
will pay for the seized plugs to be removed from alum heads, especially 
with plugs that have a very long life, ie 30K-60K miles.

Over all very good but needed some additional explanation and 
demonstration of proper anti-seize application.

Larry

On 4/18/12 3:51 PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
> Every car guy should watch this!
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded
>
> Jay
> _______________________________________________
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> tigers@autox.team.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 16:19:21 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
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Intersting...but, I am throwing the BS flag on this one.   When the plug 
was fires, in this case,  and the spark arcs under the boot to the metal 
case, it is done. The case with its tapered seat grounds the spark to 
the head and no further  current flows.   The engineer mentions that the 
spark runs down the case to the inside of the spark where the center 
electrode is housed in ceramic and sparks inside there.  I don't think 
so.  Again, in a normally firing plug, the current flows down the center 
of the plug, jumps the gap and grounds itself on the side of the plug 
case. That side is grounded both by the threads and the plug seat.  As 
to the anti seize, yeah too much is a bad thing. But it must also be 
noted that the common variety anti sieze compounds use some sort of 
metallic powder in them. I have two different kinds, one with small 
copper microballs and one with a nickel alloy for higher heat 
applications.  The metals in the anti seize are conductive in 
themselves  so having them between the threads and head material is a 
non issue. getting the goo on the electrode is a problem though and you 
should avoid that.  Also, getting it on the exterior plug ceramic is a 
no no as well. Why? well because it IS conductive stuff. so if you have 
a db on the ceramic  the spark energy will take the easiest path to 
ground and that isn't through the center electrode.  Anybody remember 
what the plug torque is for their spark plugs in their Tigers?  I don't 
see it in the repair manual. I didn't get a torque spec with the 
aluminum heads for the race car either.   Most say something  like hand 
tight plus a bit  extra  with the wrench.  As to putting the dielectric 
grease inside the boot. Oh yes! It makes those suckers really easy to 
get all the way on. And that makes good electrical contact with the 
center electrode.  It doesn't seem to help me get the boot off though.

Just use a dab of ante seize.  like a bit on a q tip.   Or use milk of 
magnesia, works just as well and is non conductive.

happy sparking

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed


On 4/18/2012 12:51 PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
> Every car guy should watch this!
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded
>
> Jay
> _______________________________________________
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 17:39:36 2012
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>, Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 18:30:59 -0500
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Agreed on all counts... I used to use a bit of engine oil on the plug threads,
but a dab of antiseize is, to me, that much more effective, especially when
threading plugs into aluminum heads. I still make sure to hand thread the
plugs until they seat on the taper or the washer; that ensures that I have
clean enough threads and that something isn't crossthreaded or otherwise
messed up before applying the final torque.

The closeups they showed of that plug were not quite good enough to show the
crack, but on one of them it appeared that the carbon track propagated along
the crack? If that crack was put in by the owner then that would explain the
misfires right off the bat.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sandy Ganz
> Sent: April 18, 2012 2:23 PM
> To: Jay Laifman; Tiger's Den
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
>
> The guy must have used a huge amount of Anti-sieze. Some of the
> technical
> information seemed off until the 'Engineer' got on the video. I love
> the
> example
> of the anti-sieze brush as that is what both of the jars of the stuff
> I have
> look like and it's gooey messy (and smelly) stuff.
>
> I'll also bet the
> guy cracked the plug when he put it in, but you never know.
>
> Bottomline is
> keep your plugs clean, inside and out as well as the boot. I am a
> huge
> believer in A-S on the threads of aluminum heads, and like the guy said
> a
> little goes a long long way. I often don't apply it to plugs if the
> threads
> seems to have a bit left in it from the last change to avoid the good.
> Biggest
> problem is making sure the goo doesnt get on your hands when you put in
> the
> plugs.
>
> I do love that the 'Steeler-ship' couldn't fix it :)
>
> Sandy
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
> To:
> Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, April 18, 2012 12:54:59 PM
> Subject: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
>
> Every car guy should watch this!
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded
>
> Jay
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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>


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 17:54:35 2012
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From: "Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 18:54:43 -0500
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Subject: [Tigers] Happy Birthday
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Hemmings' daily newsletter says that Sunbeam debuted the Tiger on this day
in 1964.  Happy Birthday!

 

Now, does that mean they had a press announcement or revealed it a show or
what?

 

Thanks,

Joe Brown

Arlington, TX

B382000217
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Happy Birthday
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Wasn't it at the NY Auto show?B  It falls around now, even today...



Stu



----- Original Message -----


From: "Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980@gmail.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:54:43 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Happy Birthday

Hemmings' daily newsletter says that Sunbeam debuted the Tiger on this day
in 1964. B Happy Birthday!

B 

Now, does that mean they had a press announcement or revealed it a show or
what?

B 

Thanks,

Joe Brown

Arlington, TX

B382000217
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From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>
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Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
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Yes, same page you just said it better ;)

And again, likely started with a
cracked spark plug not antiseize... maybe he 
'over torqued' the plug and
stretched the threads...

Ok, still useful to keep things clean if that's the
message, it's what I'll take 
away, and I still enjoy seeing these type of
videos, always learning what to/not 
to do from others costly mistakes is nice
for a change.

How's the Tiger project coming along?

Sandy ;)
________________________________
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
To:
Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, April 18, 2012 3:19:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark
Plugs

Intersting...but, I am throwing the BS flag on this one.  When the plug
was fires, in this case,  and the spark arcs under the boot to the metal
case, it is done. The case with its tapered seat grounds the spark to 
the
head and no further  current flows.  The engineer mentions that the 
spark
runs down the case to the inside of the spark where the center 
electrode is
housed in ceramic and sparks inside there.  I don't think 
so.  Again, in a
normally firing plug, the current flows down the center 
of the plug, jumps
the gap and grounds itself on the side of the plug 
case. That side is
grounded both by the threads and the plug seat.  As 
to the anti seize, yeah
too much is a bad thing. But it must also be 
noted that the common variety
anti sieze compounds use some sort of 
metallic powder in them. I have two
different kinds, one with small 
copper microballs and one with a nickel alloy
for higher heat 
applications.  The metals in the anti seize are conductive in
themselves  so having them between the threads and head material is a 
non
issue. getting the goo on the electrode is a problem though and you 
should
avoid that.  Also, getting it on the exterior plug ceramic is a 
no no as
well. Why? well because it IS conductive stuff. so if you have 
a db on the
ceramic  the spark energy will take the easiest path to 
ground and that isn't
through the center electrode.  Anybody remember 
what the plug torque is for
their spark plugs in their Tigers?  I don't 
see it in the repair manual. I
didn't get a torque spec with the 
aluminum heads for the race car either. 
Most say something  like hand 
tight plus a bit  extra  with the wrench.  As
to putting the dielectric 
grease inside the boot. Oh yes! It makes those
suckers really easy to 
get all the way on. And that makes good electrical
contact with the 
center electrode.  It doesn't seem to help me get the boot
off though.

Just use a dab of ante seize.  like a bit on a q tip.  Or use
milk of 
magnesia, works just as well and is non conductive.

happy sparking
mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed


On 4/18/2012 12:51 PM, Jay
Laifman wrote:
> Every car guy should watch this!
>
>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded
>
> Jay
>
_______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 18:41:40 2012
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Cc: 'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
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Spark plug torque

Tapered plug - snug + 1/8 turn
Washer style - snug + 1/4 turn

This seems to be the norm for spark plugs.

Tiger Shop Manual - Section B - Page 70 - torque = 15 - 20 ft lbs

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:18 PM
To: Jay Laifman
Cc: Tiger's Den
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs


Intersting...but, I am throwing the BS flag on this one.   When the plug 
was fires, in this case,  and the spark arcs under the boot to the metal 
case, it is done. The case with its tapered seat grounds the spark to 
the head and no further  current flows.   The engineer mentions that the 
spark runs down the case to the inside of the spark where the center 
electrode is housed in ceramic and sparks inside there.  I don't think 
so.  Again, in a normally firing plug, the current flows down the center 
of the plug, jumps the gap and grounds itself on the side of the plug 
case. That side is grounded both by the threads and the plug seat.  As 
to the anti seize, yeah too much is a bad thing. But it must also be 
noted that the common variety anti sieze compounds use some sort of 
metallic powder in them. I have two different kinds, one with small 
copper microballs and one with a nickel alloy for higher heat 
applications.  The metals in the anti seize are conductive in 
themselves  so having them between the threads and head material is a 
non issue. getting the goo on the electrode is a problem though and you 
should avoid that.  Also, getting it on the exterior plug ceramic is a 
no no as well. Why? well because it IS conductive stuff. so if you have 
a db on the ceramic  the spark energy will take the easiest path to 
ground and that isn't through the center electrode.  Anybody remember 
what the plug torque is for their spark plugs in their Tigers?  I don't 
see it in the repair manual. I didn't get a torque spec with the 
aluminum heads for the race car either.   Most say something  like hand 
tight plus a bit  extra  with the wrench.  As to putting the dielectric 
grease inside the boot. Oh yes! It makes those suckers really easy to 
get all the way on. And that makes good electrical contact with the 
center electrode.  It doesn't seem to help me get the boot off though.

Just use a dab of ante seize.  like a bit on a q tip.   Or use milk of 
magnesia, works just as well and is non conductive.

happy sparking

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed


On 4/18/2012 12:51 PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
> Every car guy should watch this!
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded
>
> Jay
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf@mayfco.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 18:57:41 2012
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From: Tom Hall <modtiger@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Tigers] FYI Transmission Availability
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While ordering a new Ford Racing spec T5 transmission for my last Tiger 
5 speed customer, I made some important discoveries you may want to know 
about. First, Tremec has raised their T5 prices considerably (about 
$350, effective early February) and they have let the supply chain go 
essentially dry. This means that very few are in stock at the normal 
distributors. Second, they are apparently moving their production 
operation from Mexico to India. I dont know if this is necessarily a 
good thing quality wise, and I suspect delays and back orders are going 
to be much more commonplace.

I purchased and received six of the existing T5's from the Mexican 
production. So if youve been considering moving up to one of my T5 five 
speed Tiger transmission kits, now is the time to send me a deposit to 
claim one of these six. I dont know when I will be able to get any more 
of these transmissions and the quality will be an unknown. Yes I do have 
to charge more for these as I had to pay a premium to get these six.

-- 
Tom Hall
ModTiger Engineering LLC
www.tigerengineering.net
modtiger@comcast.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 19:14:21 2012
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Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
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Just a caution to all about specific torque figures. The 15 - 20 ft- lb figure in the shop manual is probably a dry torque figure. Anti-sieze on the threads acts as a lubricant. It will result in a considerably tighter actual clamping force (and stress on the plug threads) at a 15-20 ft-lb torque reading than you would have at the same torque and no anti-sieze . 

Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> 
To: drmayf@mayfco.com, "Jay Laifman" <jay.laifman@gmail.com> 
Cc: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:32:39 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs 

Spark plug torque 

Tapered plug - snug + 1/8 turn 
Washer style - snug + 1/4 turn 

This seems to be the norm for spark plugs. 

Tiger Shop Manual - Section B - Page 70 - torque = 15 - 20 ft lbs 

Ron Fraser 

-----Original Message----- 
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] 
On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield 
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:18 PM 
To: Jay Laifman 
Cc: Tiger's Den 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs 


Intersting...but, I am throwing the BS flag on this one. When the plug 
was fires, in this case, and the spark arcs under the boot to the metal 
case, it is done. The case with its tapered seat grounds the spark to 
the head and no further current flows. The engineer mentions that the 
spark runs down the case to the inside of the spark where the center 
electrode is housed in ceramic and sparks inside there. I don't think 
so. Again, in a normally firing plug, the current flows down the center 
of the plug, jumps the gap and grounds itself on the side of the plug 
case. That side is grounded both by the threads and the plug seat. As 
to the anti seize, yeah too much is a bad thing. But it must also be 
noted that the common variety anti sieze compounds use some sort of 
metallic powder in them. I have two different kinds, one with small 
copper microballs and one with a nickel alloy for higher heat 
applications. The metals in the anti seize are conductive in 
themselves so having them between the threads and head material is a 
non issue. getting the goo on the electrode is a problem though and you 
should avoid that. Also, getting it on the exterior plug ceramic is a 
no no as well. Why? well because it IS conductive stuff. so if you have 
a db on the ceramic the spark energy will take the easiest path to 
ground and that isn't through the center electrode. Anybody remember 
what the plug torque is for their spark plugs in their Tigers? I don't 
see it in the repair manual. I didn't get a torque spec with the 
aluminum heads for the race car either. Most say something like hand 
tight plus a bit extra with the wrench. As to putting the dielectric 
grease inside the boot. Oh yes! It makes those suckers really easy to 
get all the way on. And that makes good electrical contact with the 
center electrode. It doesn't seem to help me get the boot off though. 

Just use a dab of ante seize. like a bit on a q tip. Or use milk of 
magnesia, works just as well and is non conductive. 

happy sparking 

mayf 

______________________________ 
drmayf 
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period. 
204.913 mph flying mile 
210.779 mph exit speed 


On 4/18/2012 12:51 PM, Jay Laifman wrote: 
> Every car guy should watch this! 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded 
> 
> Jay 
> _______________________________________________ 
> 
> tigers@autox.team.net 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf@mayfco.com 
_______________________________________________ 

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_______________________________________________ 

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 19:29:14 2012
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Cc: 'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
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Interesting..torque specs weren't up front in the head specs...

Thanks, I stand corrected. I will no go out and torque the plugs in the 
Tiger to 17.5 ft-lbs...is that with or without lube?


mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed


On 4/18/2012 5:32 PM,  Ron Fraser wrote:
> Spark plug torque
>
> Tapered plug - snug + 1/8 turn
> Washer style - snug + 1/4 turn
>
> This seems to be the norm for spark plugs.
>
> Tiger Shop Manual - Section B - Page 70 - torque = 15 - 20 ft lbs
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:18 PM
> To: Jay Laifman
> Cc: Tiger's Den
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
>
>
> Intersting...but, I am throwing the BS flag on this one.   When the plug
> was fires, in this case,  and the spark arcs under the boot to the metal
> case, it is done. The case with its tapered seat grounds the spark to
> the head and no further  current flows.   The engineer mentions that the
> spark runs down the case to the inside of the spark where the center
> electrode is housed in ceramic and sparks inside there.  I don't think
> so.  Again, in a normally firing plug, the current flows down the center
> of the plug, jumps the gap and grounds itself on the side of the plug
> case. That side is grounded both by the threads and the plug seat.  As
> to the anti seize, yeah too much is a bad thing. But it must also be
> noted that the common variety anti sieze compounds use some sort of
> metallic powder in them. I have two different kinds, one with small
> copper microballs and one with a nickel alloy for higher heat
> applications.  The metals in the anti seize are conductive in
> themselves  so having them between the threads and head material is a
> non issue. getting the goo on the electrode is a problem though and you
> should avoid that.  Also, getting it on the exterior plug ceramic is a
> no no as well. Why? well because it IS conductive stuff. so if you have
> a db on the ceramic  the spark energy will take the easiest path to
> ground and that isn't through the center electrode.  Anybody remember
> what the plug torque is for their spark plugs in their Tigers?  I don't
> see it in the repair manual. I didn't get a torque spec with the
> aluminum heads for the race car either.   Most say something  like hand
> tight plus a bit  extra  with the wrench.  As to putting the dielectric
> grease inside the boot. Oh yes! It makes those suckers really easy to
> get all the way on. And that makes good electrical contact with the
> center electrode.  It doesn't seem to help me get the boot off though.
>
> Just use a dab of ante seize.  like a bit on a q tip.   Or use milk of
> magnesia, works just as well and is non conductive.
>
> happy sparking
>
> mayf
>
> ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
>
>
> On 4/18/2012 12:51 PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
>> Every car guy should watch this!
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded
>>
>> Jay
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf@mayfco.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2411/4942 - Release Date: 04/17/12
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
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Well given it was a 60's ford, the engineers would have definintly accounted
oil 
leaking out of the valve covers so it may be with oil... 


Ok, I have
had enough fun for one day :)

Sandy




________________________________
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: Tiger's
Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, April 18, 2012 6:29:46 PM
Subject: Re:
[Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs

Interesting..torque specs weren't up front
in the head specs...

Thanks, I stand corrected. I will no go out and torque
the plugs in the 
Tiger to 17.5 ft-lbs...is that with or without lube?


mayf
______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913
mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed


On 4/18/2012 5:32 PM,  Ron Fraser
wrote:
> Spark plug torque
>
> Tapered plug - snug + 1/8 turn
> Washer style -
snug + 1/4 turn
>
> This seems to be the norm for spark plugs.
>
> Tiger Shop
Manual - Section B - Page 70 - torque = 15 - 20 ft lbs
>
> Ron Fraser
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
> Sent:
Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:18 PM
> To: Jay Laifman
> Cc: Tiger's Den
>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
>
>
> Intersting...but, I am
throwing the BS flag on this one.  When the plug
> was fires, in this case, 
and the spark arcs under the boot to the metal
> case, it is done. The case
with its tapered seat grounds the spark to
> the head and no further  current
flows.  The engineer mentions that the
> spark runs down the case to the
inside of the spark where the center
> electrode is housed in ceramic and
sparks inside there.  I don't think
> so.  Again, in a normally firing plug,
the current flows down the center
> of the plug, jumps the gap and grounds
itself on the side of the plug
> case. That side is grounded both by the
threads and the plug seat.  As
> to the anti seize, yeah too much is a bad
thing. But it must also be
> noted that the common variety anti sieze
compounds use some sort of
> metallic powder in them. I have two different
kinds, one with small
> copper microballs and one with a nickel alloy for
higher heat
> applications.  The metals in the anti seize are conductive in
>
themselves  so having them between the threads and head material is a
> non
issue. getting the goo on the electrode is a problem though and you
> should
avoid that.  Also, getting it on the exterior plug ceramic is a
> no no as
well. Why? well because it IS conductive stuff. so if you have
> a db on the
ceramic  the spark energy will take the easiest path to
> ground and that
isn't through the center electrode.  Anybody remember
> what the plug torque
is for their spark plugs in their Tigers?  I don't
> see it in the repair
manual. I didn't get a torque spec with the
> aluminum heads for the race car
either.  Most say something  like hand
> tight plus a bit  extra  with the
wrench.  As to putting the dielectric
> grease inside the boot. Oh yes! It
makes those suckers really easy to
> get all the way on. And that makes good
electrical contact with the
> center electrode.  It doesn't seem to help me
get the boot off though.
>
> Just use a dab of ante seize.  like a bit on a q
tip.  Or use milk of
> magnesia, works just as well and is non conductive.
>
>
happy sparking
>
> mayf
>
> ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds
Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
>
>
> On 4/18/2012 12:51 PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
>> Every car guy should watch
this!
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded
>>
>> Jay
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 22:27:04 2012
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From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
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Very common automotive blog material as to whether torque is affected by
anti-sieze. Shows up on every car list I am on.  I have seen engineering
papers written on it. I personally, also being an engineer, subscribe to the
side that torque is a static measure while the lubricants tend to more
affect friction in movement. There is very little movement at the end of the
torqueing of a bolt and I find it hard to believe the antisieze would affect
the value to any great degree. Since my Harley recommends antisieze on the
plugs, and are very careful about torques for everything on the engine, I
stick with the "no real affect on torque value" position.

Curt

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of genepadgett@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:14 PM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: Tiger's Den
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs

Just a caution to all about specific torque figures. The 15 - 20 ft- lb
figure in the shop manual is probably a dry torque figure. Anti-sieze on the
threads acts as a lubricant. It will result in a considerably tighter actual
clamping force (and stress on the plug threads) at a 15-20 ft-lb torque
reading than you would have at the same torque and no anti-sieze . 

Gene 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 23:45:10 2012
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Sounds like there is a need to create a spark plug stretch gauge. :-)  Tom


> Just a caution to all about specific torque figures. The 15 - 20 ft- lb 
> figure in the shop manual is probably a dry torque figure. Anti-sieze on 
> the threads acts as a lubricant. It will result in a considerably tighter 
> actual clamping force (and stress on the plug threads) at a 15-20 ft-lb 
> torque reading than you would have at the same torque and no anti-sieze .
>
> Gene
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 00:01:32 2012
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Curt, my gin and tonic is encouraging me to reply :>) 

I intended my post to focus on the real objective of determining "how tight" the plug should be. Torque is a proxy for that clamping force and for a given clamping force objective is a variable depending on the lubrication or not on the threads. As you seem to agree, lubricated threads, having lower friction between them, will turn further before stopping at a specific torque. However, the lubricated installation will have a greater tension in the plug body, being stretched more. Or so I submit. 

Perhaps you can rationalize your view with ARP specifying lower installation torque for their head bolts depending on whether the threads are lubricated or not and what is the lubricant.. 

As for Harley specifying anti-sieze, I submit that they, like ARP, have determined what is the desired clamping force (i.e., stress within the plug and sealing objective) given the effect of the specified lubricant and written their spec accordingly. Not unlike ARP and their head bolts. 

To the extent that anti-sieze is in any way a lubricant is a separate question, but I subjectively submit it has some lubricating properties above zero. Whether it is materially different than dry is a totally different question. 

Cheers (!) 

Gene 



----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com> 
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 11:27:13 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs 

Very common automotive blog material as to whether torque is affected by 
anti-sieze. Shows up on every car list I am on. I have seen engineering 
papers written on it. I personally, also being an engineer, subscribe to the 
side that torque is a static measure while the lubricants tend to more 
affect friction in movement. There is very little movement at the end of the 
torqueing of a bolt and I find it hard to believe the antisieze would affect 
the value to any great degree. Since my Harley recommends antisieze on the 
plugs, and are very careful about torques for everything on the engine, I 
stick with the "no real affect on torque value" position. 

Curt 

-----Original Message----- 
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] 
On Behalf Of genepadgett@comcast.net 
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:14 PM 
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com 
Cc: Tiger's Den 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs 

Just a caution to all about specific torque figures. The 15 - 20 ft- lb 
figure in the shop manual is probably a dry torque figure. Anti-sieze on the 
threads acts as a lubricant. It will result in a considerably tighter actual 
clamping force (and stress on the plug threads) at a 15-20 ft-lb torque 
reading than you would have at the same torque and no anti-sieze . 

Gene 
_______________________________________________ 

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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs , Shelby Flig,
 Herb  Mosley Award
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I appreciate ALL post about Beams on any subject BUT surely by now we as a
group can tourque our plugs with or without aintiseize, oil or spit and they
not back out or break when being removed. As dumb as I am I have never had a
problem unless someone else installed the plugs and they over torqued them-
just saying. But Thanks for all the post.
I hope everyone that can will be at the Shelby meet at the Brown County State
grounds nears Inndian Univerisity next month. We need a showing of Tigers
amongest the Cobras and mostly Mustangs as memory serves. Also haveing just
lost a most valuable member, has anyone besides me thought that perhaps that
between the two major clubs that an award should be made/built to be given to
the person who most gives of himself like Herb Mosley did. The HM Award. I
feel  those who have leadership within our clubs should consider the uptaking
of this award. I think we all owe it to Herb as he dam sure gave back to us
enough that we should remember him every year in some way- just my opinion-
speak yours.
Tony Lang  TtT



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Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 08:07:27 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
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H*ll yeah! Score 10 for a good answer! I want one of your gin and 
tonics, lol....

But Harleys use aluminum heads and in truth do need an anti seize 
because the instance of plug to head galling after prolonged use is 
higher with aluminum and steel plugs than the plain old cast iron heads 
and steel.

mayf
A Grey Goose kinda guy

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed


On 4/18/2012 10:50 PM, genepadgett@comcast.net wrote:
> Curt, my gin and tonic is encouraging me to reply :>)
>
> I intended my post to focus on the real objective of determining "how tight" the plug should be. Torque is a proxy for that clamping force and for a given clamping force objective is a variable depending on the lubrication or not on the threads. As you seem to agree, lubricated threads, having lower friction between them, will turn further before stopping at a specific torque. However, the lubricated installation will have a greater tension in the plug body, being stretched more. Or so I submit.
>
> Perhaps you can rationalize your view with ARP specifying lower installation torque for their head bolts depending on whether the threads are lubricated or not and what is the lubricant..
>
> As for Harley specifying anti-sieze, I submit that they, like ARP, have determined what is the desired clamping force (i.e., stress within the plug and sealing objective) given the effect of the specified lubricant and written their spec accordingly. Not unlike ARP and their head bolts.
>
> To the extent that anti-sieze is in any way a lubricant is a separate question, but I subjectively submit it has some lubricating properties above zero. Whether it is materially different than dry is a totally different question.
>
> Cheers (!)
>
> Gene
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Curt Hoffman"<choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 11:27:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
>
> Very common automotive blog material as to whether torque is affected by
> anti-sieze. Shows up on every car list I am on. I have seen engineering
> papers written on it. I personally, also being an engineer, subscribe to the
> side that torque is a static measure while the lubricants tend to more
> affect friction in movement. There is very little movement at the end of the
> torqueing of a bolt and I find it hard to believe the antisieze would affect
> the value to any great degree. Since my Harley recommends antisieze on the
> plugs, and are very careful about torques for everything on the engine, I
> stick with the "no real affect on torque value" position.
>
> Curt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of genepadgett@comcast.net
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:14 PM
> To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
> Cc: Tiger's Den
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
>
> Just a caution to all about specific torque figures. The 15 - 20 ft- lb
> figure in the shop manual is probably a dry torque figure. Anti-sieze on the
> threads acts as a lubricant. It will result in a considerably tighter actual
> clamping force (and stress on the plug threads) at a 15-20 ft-lb torque
> reading than you would have at the same torque and no anti-sieze .
>
> Gene
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 20 12:32:38 2012
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For my SoCal brothers and sisters, the Hemmings newsletter/blog announced this
morning that the 1/8th mile strip at Irwindale will reopen, I think the date
is April 26?, so it looks like the Larry Reed / Gordon Chittenden wannabe's
may be back in biz in the Southland. Yahoo

RB
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 17:05:16 2012
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Subject: [Tigers] Ebay Tiger II sold
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The Tiger II #373 on eBay (US) just sold for $30,120, eight bidders, 5655 views.

Looked like it might have needed about $5K for interior and other minor stuff
to make it a good driver.

Item # 	330719773559

RB
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From: "A. C. Tynes" <v8tracker@gmail.com>
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Subject: [Tigers] Tudor bottle
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There is a 1951 Healey Abbott shown on Bring a Trailer today at
http://www.barnfinds.com/first-of-a-few-1951-healey-abbott/?utm_source=feedblit
z&utm_medium=FeedBlitzEmail&utm_content=766718&utm_campaign=0&utm_medium=rss&ut
m_campaign=first-of-a-few-1951-healey-abbott.

Included in the pictures is a shot of the engine compartment that shows a Tudor
washer bottle. The car is for sale on E-Bay and there is a second shot of the
bottle there.

I didn't realize that the Tudor bottle was used so widely and early. If you
need one, just go down to your local Pick-a-Part and find a 1951 Healy Abbott!
Problem solved!

By the way, the car is very interesting and is worth looking at, Tudor bottle
or not.

A. C. Tynes
New Orleans
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 18:41:09 2012
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I *thought* Holdens in England still sells them .....

Chris
B382000331

On 4/25/2012 8:14 PM, A. C. Tynes wrote:
> There is a 1951 Healey Abbott shown on Bring a Trailer today at
> http://www.barnfinds.com/first-of-a-few-1951-healey-abbott/?utm_source=feedblit
> z&utm_medium=FeedBlitzEmail&utm_content=766718&utm_campaign=0&utm_medium=rss&ut
> m_campaign=first-of-a-few-1951-healey-abbott.
>
> Included in the pictures is a shot of the engine compartment that shows a Tudor
> washer bottle. The car is for sale on E-Bay and there is a second shot of the
> bottle there.
>
> I didn't realize that the Tudor bottle was used so widely and early. If you
> need one, just go down to your local Pick-a-Part and find a 1951 Healy Abbott!
> Problem solved!
>
> By the way, the car is very interesting and is worth looking at, Tudor bottle
> or not.
>
> A. C. Tynes
> New Orleans
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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	I believe Sunbeam Specialties has the washer bottle new.  Its bright
white instead of the yellow aged look.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Thompson
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 8:42 PM
To: A. C. Tynes
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tudor bottle


I *thought* Holdens in England still sells them .....

Chris
B382000331

On 4/25/2012 8:14 PM, A. C. Tynes wrote:
> There is a 1951 Healey Abbott shown on Bring a Trailer today at
> http://www.barnfinds.com/first-of-a-few-1951-healey-abbott/?utm_source
> =feedblit
>
z&utm_medium=FeedBlitzEmail&utm_content=766718&utm_campaign=0&utm_medium=rss
&ut
> m_campaign=first-of-a-few-1951-healey-abbott.
>
> Included in the pictures is a shot of the engine compartment that
> shows a Tudor washer bottle. The car is for sale on E-Bay and there is
> a second shot of the bottle there.
>
> I didn't realize that the Tudor bottle was used so widely and early.
> If you need one, just go down to your local Pick-a-Part and find a
> 1951 Healy Abbott! Problem solved!
>
> By the way, the car is very interesting and is worth looking at, Tudor
> bottle or not.
>
> A. C. Tynes
> New Orleans
> _______________________________________________
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 19:23:59 2012
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Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 11:16:53 +1000
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From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: "A. C. Tynes" <v8tracker@gmail.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tudor bottle
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Sunbeam Specialties has the rootes specific Tudor bottle. The MKI/IA
Tigers used the tudor bottle with ROOTES embossed into it.. as per the
current hillmans, singers, commers and Alpines. Also SIV used the
rootes ones.

The early SI/II alpines used the tudor bottle with a blue tudor label
screen printed on it.

Lots of british cars used the tudor bottles.. but be careful.. there
were many different sizes... the MKII Tiger used a shorter wider Tudor
bottle that is specific to it (at least in regards to sunbeams)

Ricks rpero bottles are great.. but you need to use your metal nib and
hose from your existing bottle.

HTH

-- 
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 18:46:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: david gilmore <dave.gilmore@sbcglobal.net>
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
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Cc: "A. C. Tynes" <v8tracker@gmail.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tudor bottle
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RE MKII bottles, there were evidently two versions with the final cars using
an even shorter, fatter, now impossible to find, version with plastic nipple. 
IF you can find one expect to pay (you ready for this) about $1000.00!  I know
because I bought one for my car.  If your MKII has one, treat it gently. 
Jeez, AC Cobra parts aren't even this crazy.

Thank you,
Dave Gilmore
Cell 913-488-1459
Home 913-381-1459

--- On Wed, 4/25/12, michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com> wrote:


From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tudor bottle
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: "A. C. Tynes" <v8tracker@gmail.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, April 25, 2012, 8:16 PM


Sunbeam Specialties has the rootes specific Tudor bottle. The MKI/IA
Tigers used the tudor bottle with ROOTES embossed into it.. as per the
current hillmans, singers, commers and Alpines. Also SIV used the
rootes ones.

The early SI/II alpines used the tudor bottle with a blue tudor label
screen printed on it.

Lots of british cars used the tudor bottles.. but be careful.. there
were many different sizes... the MKII Tiger used a shorter wider Tudor
bottle that is specific to it (at least in regards to sunbeams)

Ricks rpero bottles are great.. but you need to use your metal nib and
hose from your existing bottle.

HTH

--
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 19:55:51 2012
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From: Carlo Bernardino <crbdino@me.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 18:55:47 -0700
To: david gilmore <dave.gilmore@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "A. C. Tynes" <v8tracker@gmail.com>,
	"tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tudor bottle
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I think that is still cheaper than the BON!

Carlo Rob Bernardino, MD FACS
Oculoplastics and Aesthetic Surgery
Vantage Eye Center
Monterey, CA

Sent from my eyePhone

On Apr 25, 2012, at 6:46 PM, david gilmore <dave.gilmore@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> RE MKII bottles, there were evidently two versions with the final cars using
> an even shorter, fatter, now impossible to find, version with plastic nipple. 
> IF you can find one expect to pay (you ready for this) about $1000.00!  I know
> because I bought one for my car.  If your MKII has one, treat it gently. 
> Jeez, AC Cobra parts aren't even this crazy.
> 
> Thank you,
> Dave Gilmore
> Cell 913-488-1459
> Home 913-381-1459
> 
> --- On Wed, 4/25/12, michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tudor bottle
> To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
> Cc: "A. C. Tynes" <v8tracker@gmail.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, April 25, 2012, 8:16 PM
> 
> 
> Sunbeam Specialties has the rootes specific Tudor bottle. The MKI/IA
> Tigers used the tudor bottle with ROOTES embossed into it.. as per the
> current hillmans, singers, commers and Alpines. Also SIV used the
> rootes ones.
> 
> The early SI/II alpines used the tudor bottle with a blue tudor label
> screen printed on it.
> 
> Lots of british cars used the tudor bottles.. but be careful.. there
> were many different sizes... the MKII Tiger used a shorter wider Tudor
> bottle that is specific to it (at least in regards to sunbeams)
> 
> Ricks rpero bottles are great.. but you need to use your metal nib and
> hose from your existing bottle.
> 
> HTH
> 
> --
> Regards
> 
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers@autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> 
> tigers@autox.team.net
> 
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I'm starting my long, long awaited restoration of my MK1 Tiger.  The car was dipped and stripped and now needs paint and reassembly.   I'm looking for a site to host pictures and a commentary as I rebuild it.  Any suggestions for a good site to capture this adventure on?  TIA.





Tom
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From: Terry Curry <tigersnakegt@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [Tigers] Tigers United XXXIV
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Sunbeam Tiger Owners Association
Presents:
Tigers United XXXIV
An
international gathering of the finest Sunbeam Tigers on the West Coast
June
21st b 24th 2012Tigers United XXIV will be held in beautiful Reno, Nevada.
The Event hotel is the Sienna Spa Hotel Casino located on the Truckee River in
downtown Reno.
Reno has a chain of high-peaked mountains that literally
surround the region in every direction. Theybve got high desert hills and
low valleys covered with deciduous and evergreen trees. Reno has a river that
casually flows through the heart of the city and nearby Virginia City gives a
look into the areabs historic mining town past. In addition to our area's
spectacular beauty, Reno offers an extraordinary mix of history and culture,
world-class ski and golf resorts, 24-hour gaming and entertainment, a mild
climate with four distinct seasons, and a healthy, diverse economy. There are
also a myriad of outdoor activities such as river rafting, mountain biking,
golf, and water skiing.
Registered participants of Tigers United XXXIV will
participate in the following scheduled events: a Rally, an Autocross (Located
at the Airport where the Reno Air races are held), a Concourse, and an Awards
Banquet. We will also have a private tour and welcome reception at the
National Automobile Museum (Harrahbs Collection) Thursday evening

For more
information and updates to the schedule,
email Patrick King at
patrick@lgsrc.com.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of TU XXXIVSchedule.pdf]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of TUXXXIV Registration Form v2.pdf]
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From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 15:27:31 -0400
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It isn't expensive to just have your own website and domain.

Lots of easy websites builder programs for free are available.

Michael



On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 3:15 PM, Tom Pappenhagen <pappentl@aol.com> wrote:

> I'm starting my long, long awaited restoration of my MK1 Tiger.  The car
> was dipped and stripped and now needs paint and reassembly.   I'm looking
> for a site to host pictures and a commentary as I rebuild it.  Any
> suggestions for a good site to capture this adventure on?  TIA.
>
>
>
>
>
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
>


-- 







Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael@michaelshortt.com
912-232-9390


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 17:22:50 2012
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
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Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:19:12 -0400
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Subject: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
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I'm working on a MK II.
 
I noticed the brown wires for the ammeter come out the drivers side harness
grommet and snake around the front top of the engine.
This seems incorrect to me but I'm a novice when it come to Mk II details.
MK II guidance needed.
 
Ron Fraser
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Tom, one of the guys in my Pantera group runs something similar at blogspot. I
believe it's very user friendly. Here is his blog for the restore on his
Pantera.

http://pantera1998.blogspot.com/2011/11/pulling-engine-down.html

Cullen


Sent from my iPhone.

On Apr 26, 2012, at 2:15 PM, Tom Pappenhagen  <pappentl@aol.com> wrote:

> I'm starting my long, long awaited restoration of my MK1 Tiger.  The car was
dipped and stripped and now needs paint and reassembly.   I'm looking for a
site to host pictures and a commentary as I rebuild it.  Any suggestions for a
good site to capture this adventure on?  TIA.
>
>
>
>
>
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 17:39:21 2012
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Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 16:35:39 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
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Uhhh, doesn't team.net have a forum where you can post photos and 
comments?   That way it would be all "in house" so to speak...

Mark? comment?

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed


On 4/26/2012 4:23 PM, Cullen1972 wrote:
> Tom, one of the guys in my Pantera group runs something similar at blogspot. I
> believe it's very user friendly. Here is his blog for the restore on his
> Pantera.
>
> http://pantera1998.blogspot.com/2011/11/pulling-engine-down.html
>
> Cullen
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone.
>
> On Apr 26, 2012, at 2:15 PM, Tom Pappenhagen<pappentl@aol.com>  wrote:
>
>> I'm starting my long, long awaited restoration of my MK1 Tiger.  The car was
> dipped and stripped and now needs paint and reassembly.   I'm looking for a
> site to host pictures and a commentary as I rebuild it.  Any suggestions for a
> good site to capture this adventure on?  TIA.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Tom
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cmccann1972@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf@mayfco.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 08:08:11 2012
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Larry Mayfield wrote:
> Uhhh, doesn't team.net have a forum where you can post photos and
> comments?   That way it would be all "in house" so to speak...
>
> Mark? comment?
>

Yes, but there is a problem with it at the moment.  When one
goes to login, it accepts your username and password, then
kicks you right out.  I'm working on it.  If you go to the forum
link below you can see some debugging messages and can
read posts just fine.

mjb.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 08:56:08 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
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	I want to clarify my request.

	I need to know how the Mk II amp gage wire harness is loomed through
the car and how the amp gage harness is spliced into the Mk II wiring.

	I believe the wire harness I'm looking at is from Rootes, it seems
correct but I need to inspect it further.   I simply don't like the way it
is loomed under the steering and over the front of the engine; too many
moving parts.

	I think the harness should be loomed behind the dash to the right
side then out to the alternator; if that is how the Mk II amp gage is
suppose to be splice into the wiring.  This would make a cleaner looking
install and get the harness away from moving parts.   I have not accurately
measured the full length of this harness to see if it is long enough to
move; it is somewhere over 60" long.

Thanks
Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 7:19 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] MK II wiring help


I'm working on a MK II.

I noticed the brown wires for the ammeter come out the drivers side harness
grommet and snake around the front top of the engine. This seems incorrect
to me but I'm a novice when it come to Mk II details. MK II guidance needed.

Ron Fraser
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 09:01:02 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
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Perhaps the better question is how to wire the ammeter with a shunt. Many ammeters are wired with the full power going through the dash. I am working in Texas this week. So I don't have access to wiring details. But I know the wiring diagram is available at tigersunited.com.  

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Sender: tigers-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 10:54:34 
To: <rfraser@bluefrog.com>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Reply-To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help

	I want to clarify my request.

	I need to know how the Mk II amp gage wire harness is loomed through
the car and how the amp gage harness is spliced into the Mk II wiring.

	I believe the wire harness I'm looking at is from Rootes, it seems
correct but I need to inspect it further.   I simply don't like the way it
is loomed under the steering and over the front of the engine; too many
moving parts.

	I think the harness should be loomed behind the dash to the right
side then out to the alternator; if that is how the Mk II amp gage is
suppose to be splice into the wiring.  This would make a cleaner looking
install and get the harness away from moving parts.   I have not accurately
measured the full length of this harness to see if it is long enough to
move; it is somewhere over 60" long.

Thanks
Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 7:19 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] MK II wiring help


I'm working on a MK II.

I noticed the brown wires for the ammeter come out the drivers side harness
grommet and snake around the front top of the engine. This seems incorrect
to me but I'm a novice when it come to Mk II details. MK II guidance needed.

Ron Fraser
_______________________________________________

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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "jay.laifman@gmail.com" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>,
	"rfraser@bluefrog.com" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 10:05:00 -0500
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
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The shunt is located inside the ammeter itself. This is far from ideal,
because any imperfection in the ammeter wiring, external or internal, causes a
great deal of heat as a result of all the battery charging current being
pumped through it.

Side note: Because the MkII Tigers had an alternator, I thought the ammeter
was no longer an official option? If that's true then whatever wiring you're
seeing was added by the dealer or a PO.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jay.laifman@gmail.com
> Sent: April 27, 2012 9:01 AM
> To: rfraser@bluefrog.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
>
> Perhaps the better question is how to wire the ammeter with a shunt.
> Many ammeters are wired with the full power going through the dash. I
> am working in Texas this week. So I don't have access to wiring
> details. But I know the wiring diagram is available at
> tigersunited.com.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
> Sender: tigers-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 10:54:34
> To: <rfraser@bluefrog.com>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Reply-To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
>
>       I want to clarify my request.
>
>       I need to know how the Mk II amp gage wire harness is loomed
> through
> the car and how the amp gage harness is spliced into the Mk II wiring.
>
>       I believe the wire harness I'm looking at is from Rootes, it
> seems
> correct but I need to inspect it further.   I simply don't like the way
> it
> is loomed under the steering and over the front of the engine; too many
> moving parts.
>
>       I think the harness should be loomed behind the dash to the right
> side then out to the alternator; if that is how the Mk II amp gage is
> suppose to be splice into the wiring.  This would make a cleaner
> looking
> install and get the harness away from moving parts.   I have not
> accurately
> measured the full length of this harness to see if it is long enough to
> move; it is somewhere over 60" long.
>
> Thanks
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 7:19 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
>
>
> I'm working on a MK II.
>
> I noticed the brown wires for the ammeter come out the drivers side
> harness
> grommet and snake around the front top of the engine. This seems
> incorrect
> to me but I'm a novice when it come to Mk II details. MK II guidance
> needed.
>
> Ron Fraser
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 09:44:45 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
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Theo
	 1235776 - Ammeter - 1 - Mk II
Parts List shows a Mk II ammeter in the Special Accessories section.

I'm not concerned with who might have installed it; I'm concerned with how
it is installed.
I'm not the electrical guy so I can not off hand state if it is installed
correctly.

I'm hoping someone on the list with a Mk II with amp gage can shed some
light on this harness.

Thanks
Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: Smit, Theo [mailto:Theo.Smit@dynastream.com]
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 11:05 AM
To: jay.laifman@gmail.com; rfraser@bluefrog.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] MK II wiring help


The shunt is located inside the ammeter itself. This is far from ideal,
because any imperfection in the ammeter wiring, external or internal, causes
a great deal of heat as a result of all the battery charging current being
pumped through it.

Side note: Because the MkII Tigers had an alternator, I thought the ammeter
was no longer an official option? If that's true then whatever wiring you're
seeing was added by the dealer or a PO.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jay.laifman@gmail.com
> Sent: April 27, 2012 9:01 AM
> To: rfraser@bluefrog.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
>
> Perhaps the better question is how to wire the ammeter with a shunt.
> Many ammeters are wired with the full power going through the dash. I
> am working in Texas this week. So I don't have access to wiring
> details. But I know the wiring diagram is available at
> tigersunited.com.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 09:47:51 2012
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Ron, I know you are looking for direct information from a Mark II owner and I do not have a Mark II. But if worst to comes worst, I would say wire it the same as a Mark 1A. I cannot see how it makes a difference if the current is coming from an alternator or a generator once it is converted to direct current. 

The Mark IA wires the ammeter between the battery terminal on the regulator and the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. That effectively wires it directly between the controlled output of the regulator to the battery. It is directly in the path to the battery with full power flowing through it. I suspect the Lucas or Jaeger ammeter is made to function that way. I would bet that the 60 inch or so wire from the ammeter is about long enough to get from the ammeter to the starter solenoid. Is it connected to the ammeter? If it is meant to go to the starter solenoid, it would be connected to the output terminal of the ammeter. 

There would need to be a much shorter wire connecting the ammeter input terminal to the "A" terminal of the alternator "control box". I believe the factory original alternator "control box" is in the same general location as the generator regulator is mounted, is it not? How the wire gets back through the firewall from the meter to the starter solenoid I have no idea. When the dealer installed mine back in the '67 they just spliced it into the factory wire that went from the regulator to the starter solenoid on the engine bay side next to the regulator. I would expect that original factory wire on my Mark IA from the regulator directly to the solenoid is in some wire loom under the dash going to the passenger side of the car and then into the engine bay. I can have a look if you would like. 

Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> 
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 9:54:34 AM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help 

I want to clarify my request. 

I need to know how the Mk II amp gage wire harness is loomed through 
the car and how the amp gage harness is spliced into the Mk II wiring. 

I believe the wire harness I'm looking at is from Rootes, it seems 
correct but I need to inspect it further. I simply don't like the way it 
is loomed under the steering and over the front of the engine; too many 
moving parts. 

I think the harness should be loomed behind the dash to the right 
side then out to the alternator; if that is how the Mk II amp gage is 
suppose to be splice into the wiring. This would make a cleaner looking 
install and get the harness away from moving parts. I have not accurately 
measured the full length of this harness to see if it is long enough to 
move; it is somewhere over 60" long. 

Thanks 
Ron Fraser 

-----Original Message----- 
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] 
On Behalf Of Ron Fraser 
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 7:19 PM 
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Subject: [Tigers] MK II wiring help 


I'm working on a MK II. 

I noticed the brown wires for the ammeter come out the drivers side harness 
grommet and snake around the front top of the engine. This seems incorrect 
to me but I'm a novice when it come to Mk II details. MK II guidance needed. 

Ron Fraser 
_______________________________________________ 

tigers@autox.team.net 

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Hi Ron,
I understand... so the ammeter was either a factory option or a dealer
installed part, but either way not all MkII's would have the required wiring.
Just saw Gene's note come in... his observations make sense to me. Alternator
or gen doesn't really make a lot of difference, because the ammeter is
intended to measure the current flowing to and from the battery (aside from
the starter current). If the existing ammeter wiring appears to intercept the
alternator output, then that's incorrect.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Fraser [mailto:rfraser@bluefrog.com]
> Sent: April 27, 2012 9:44 AM
> To: Smit, Theo; jay.laifman@gmail.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
>
> Theo
>        1235776 - Ammeter - 1 - Mk II
> Parts List shows a Mk II ammeter in the Special Accessories section.
>
> I'm not concerned with who might have installed it; I'm concerned with
> how
> it is installed.
> I'm not the electrical guy so I can not off hand state if it is
> installed
> correctly.
>
> I'm hoping someone on the list with a Mk II with amp gage can shed some
> light on this harness.
>
> Thanks
> Ron Fraser
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Smit, Theo [mailto:Theo.Smit@dynastream.com]
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 11:05 AM
> To: jay.laifman@gmail.com; rfraser@bluefrog.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
>
>
> The shunt is located inside the ammeter itself. This is far from ideal,
> because any imperfection in the ammeter wiring, external or internal,
> causes
> a great deal of heat as a result of all the battery charging current
> being
> pumped through it.
>
> Side note: Because the MkII Tigers had an alternator, I thought the
> ammeter
> was no longer an official option? If that's true then whatever wiring
> you're
> seeing was added by the dealer or a PO.
>
> Theo
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jay.laifman@gmail.com
> > Sent: April 27, 2012 9:01 AM
> > To: rfraser@bluefrog.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
> >
> > Perhaps the better question is how to wire the ammeter with a shunt.
> > Many ammeters are wired with the full power going through the dash. I
> > am working in Texas this week. So I don't have access to wiring
> > details. But I know the wiring diagram is available at
> > tigersunited.com.
> >
> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> >
>


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 10:15:23 2012
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	<tigers@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
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Theo
	This harness is spliced into the Big brown wire at the alternator.
The ends at the amp gage look like Rootes style covered connections.  I have
not pulled any of the tape off at the alternator to check how it is splice
at the alternator.

	This system seems to be working OK.   I did check that there was
over 13V at the battery; however I did notice that I thought the ignition
light stayed on longer than usual.   I have been working on other parts of
this Tiger to bring it up to roadworthy and the amp gage harness was
something I spotted just before I left for the day.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: Smit, Theo [mailto:Theo.Smit@dynastream.com]
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 11:52 AM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com; jay.laifman@gmail.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] MK II wiring help


Hi Ron,
I understand... so the ammeter was either a factory option or a dealer
installed part, but either way not all MkII's would have the required
wiring. Just saw Gene's note come in... his observations make sense to me.
Alternator or gen doesn't really make a lot of difference, because the
ammeter is intended to measure the current flowing to and from the battery
(aside from the starter current). If the existing ammeter wiring appears to
intercept the alternator output, then that's incorrect.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Fraser [mailto:rfraser@bluefrog.com]
> Sent: April 27, 2012 9:44 AM
> To: Smit, Theo; jay.laifman@gmail.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
>
> Theo
>        1235776 - Ammeter - 1 - Mk II
> Parts List shows a Mk II ammeter in the Special Accessories section.
>
> I'm not concerned with who might have installed it; I'm concerned with
> how it is installed.
> I'm not the electrical guy so I can not off hand state if it is
> installed
> correctly.
>
> I'm hoping someone on the list with a Mk II with amp gage can shed
> some light on this harness.
>
> Thanks
> Ron Fraser
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Smit, Theo [mailto:Theo.Smit@dynastream.com]
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 11:05 AM
> To: jay.laifman@gmail.com; rfraser@bluefrog.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
>
>
> The shunt is located inside the ammeter itself. This is far from
> ideal, because any imperfection in the ammeter wiring, external or
> internal, causes a great deal of heat as a result of all the battery
> charging current being
> pumped through it.
>
> Side note: Because the MkII Tigers had an alternator, I thought the
> ammeter was no longer an official option? If that's true then whatever
> wiring you're
> seeing was added by the dealer or a PO.
>
> Theo
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jay.laifman@gmail.com
> > Sent: April 27, 2012 9:01 AM
> > To: rfraser@bluefrog.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
> >
> > Perhaps the better question is how to wire the ammeter with a shunt.
> > Many ammeters are wired with the full power going through the dash.
> > I am working in Texas this week. So I don't have access to wiring
> > details. But I know the wiring diagram is available at
> > tigersunited.com.
> >
> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> >
>


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 10:22:17 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
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Gene
    The first alarm went off when I noticed the wire harness at the front of
the engine.   2nd alarm went off when I saw it was 2 big brown wires spliced
into the brown wire at the alternator.

    Like I said I'm not very good when it comes to some of the electrical
things.   I generally understand some of the principals but not details.

I have no idea how or where to splice in an amp gage into the Mk II
alternator system.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: genepadgett@comcast.net [mailto:genepadgett@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 11:48 AM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help


Ron, I know you are looking for direct information from a Mark II owner and
I do not have a Mark II.  But if worst to comes worst, I would say wire it
the same as a Mark 1A.  I cannot see how it makes a difference if the
current is coming from an alternator or a generator once it is converted to
direct current.

The Mark IA wires the ammeter between the battery terminal on the regulator
and the battery terminal on the starter solenoid.  That effectively wires it
directly between the controlled output of the regulator to the battery.  It
is directly in the path to the battery with full power flowing through it.
I suspect the Lucas or Jaeger ammeter is made to function that way.  I would
bet that the 60 inch or so wire from the ammeter is about long enough to get
from the ammeter to the starter solenoid.  Is it connected to the ammeter?
If it is meant to go to the starter solenoid, it would be connected to the
output terminal of the ammeter.

There would need to be a much shorter wire connecting the ammeter input
terminal to the "A" terminal of the alternator "control box".  I believe the
factory original alternator "control box" is in the same general location as
the generator regulator  is mounted, is it not?  How the wire gets back
through the firewall from the meter to the starter solenoid I have no idea.
When the dealer installed mine back in the '67 they just spliced it into the
factory wire that went from the regulator to the starter solenoid on the
engine bay side next to the regulator.  I would expect that original factory
wire on my Mark IA from the regulator directly to the solenoid is in some
wire loom under the dash going to the passenger side of the car and then
into the engine bay.  I can have a look if you would like.

Gene


  _____

From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 9:54:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help

        I want to clarify my request.

        I need to know how the Mk II amp gage wire harness is loomed through
the car and how the amp gage harness is spliced into the Mk II wiring.

        I believe the wire harness I'm looking at is from Rootes, it seems
correct but I need to inspect it further.   I simply don't like the way it
is loomed under the steering and over the front of the engine; too many
moving parts.

        I think the harness should be loomed behind the dash to the right
side then out to the alternator; if that is how the Mk II amp gage is
suppose to be splice into the wiring.  This would make a cleaner looking
install and get the harness away from moving parts.   I have not accurately
measured the full length of this harness to see if it is long enough to
move; it is somewhere over 60" long.

Thanks
Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 7:19 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] MK II wiring help


I'm working on a MK II.

I noticed the brown wires for the ammeter come out the drivers side harness
grommet and snake around the front top of the engine. This seems incorrect
to me but I'm a novice when it come to Mk II details. MK II guidance needed.

Ron Fraser
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
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Theo
	I have not checked the system thoroughly but your last statement
seems to ring true.  I don't think I ever saw the amp gage go anywhere but
to the negative side.  I need to do some better testing and observation of
this system the next time I work on it.

	Any idea how an amp gage should be wired into this alternator
system?
Thanks
Ron


-----Original Message-----
From: Smit, Theo [mailto:Theo.Smit@dynastream.com]
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 12:21 PM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com; jay.laifman@gmail.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] MK II wiring help


One way to evaluate the overall wiring correctness (regardless of where,
physically, the connections are made) is to observe the ammeter readings
under some different conditions: 1. Everything off: Reading is at zero. 2.
Ignition off, headlights on: Reading shows about -8 amps (discharge due to
about 100 watts of lighting) 3. Headlights off, ignition on, engine not
running: A small negative (discharge) value. Turning on ancillaries such as
heater, wipers, brake lights, headlights should each show negative values
according to their approximate current draw. 4. Engine running: You should
get a positive reading, starting at a higher value (20-30 amps) immediately
after the engine is started, tapering down to probably about 5-10 amps after
a few minutes. This should not change if you turn on headlights, or other
accessories, although the needle might flicker when you first turn on or off
heavy loads such as the headlights.

If you only ever get readings in one direction then it's miswired.

Theo
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'
Side note: Because the MkII Tigers had an alternator, I thought the ammeter

was no longer an official option? If that's true then whatever wiring you're

seeing was added by the dealer or a PO.'

According to the June 1967 parts catalogue, there were LHD and RHD  ammeter
'kits" which seemed to be replaced by individual ammeters for both the Alpine
V (alternator car) and the Tiger Mk II, and the catalogue shows the same part
number used for both of these cars.

In the C.A.T 'Tiger Under-Dash Wiring' illustration, again not differentiating
between Tiger 1, 1A, or II, a brown wire from the ammeter goes to the starter
solenoid, a brown with yellow stripe wire goes to voltage regulator terminal
A, all of this in addition to the illumination light and the gauge ground harness.


I agree with Ron that routing a wire through the left side of the motor and
around to the other side of the engine compartment is just nuts, in addition
to being pretty sloppy-looking.

I should mention that about ten years ago, I bought a Jaeger ammeter through
the C.A.T. parts department for alternator-equipped Tiger 1A, and it just came
with the wiring and socket for the illumination light, no instructions and no
extra wiring.

Don't gang up on me all at once, and no - I don't do stand up at night, but
is there any likelihood that Rootes included the wiring, like more modern manufacturers
sometimes do, in the harness, making installation easier. I remember the 1970+
Datsun 510 having an optional clock or tach (couldn't do both - they took up
the same location) and some or all of the wiring was already there.
_______________________________________________

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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "rande@thecia.net" <rande@thecia.net>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 12:05:01 -0500
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tiger Mk II wiring
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Hi Rande,
The ammeter installation requires that an existing connection in the harness
has to be removed and the ammeter inserted in its place... so if Rootes had
been forward looking enough to pre-wire for an ammeter, there would have to be
a hot link (with appropriate #10 or 3/16" lugs, and securely insulated in the
case an ammeter was not installed) in the area of the ammeter location, with
brown and brown/yellow wires as you noted. I don't have a lot of knowledge
about the OEM Rootes harness or the replacement harness offered by Rick and
others, but I don't think that such a feature had ever been put in. It would
certainly have prevented a lot of botched ammeter hookups.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rande
> Sent: April 27, 2012 10:41 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Mk II wiring
>
> According to the June 1967 parts catalogue, there were LHD and RHD
> ammeter
> 'kits" which seemed to be replaced by individual ammeters for both the
> Alpine
> V (alternator car) and the Tiger Mk II, and the catalogue shows the
> same part
> number used for both of these cars.
>
> In the C.A.T 'Tiger Under-Dash Wiring' illustration, again not
> differentiating
> between Tiger 1, 1A, or II, a brown wire from the ammeter goes to the
> starter
> solenoid, a brown with yellow stripe wire goes to voltage regulator
> terminal
> A, all of this in addition to the illumination light and the gauge
> ground harness.
>
>
> I agree with Ron that routing a wire through the left side of the motor
> and
> around to the other side of the engine compartment is just nuts, in
> addition
> to being pretty sloppy-looking.
>
> I should mention that about ten years ago, I bought a Jaeger ammeter
> through
> the C.A.T. parts department for alternator-equipped Tiger 1A, and it
> just came
> with the wiring and socket for the illumination light, no instructions
> and no
> extra wiring.
>
> Don't gang up on me all at once, and no - I don't do stand up at night,
> but
> is there any likelihood that Rootes included the wiring, like more
> modern manufacturers
> sometimes do, in the harness, making installation easier. I remember
> the 1970+
> Datsun 510 having an optional clock or tach (couldn't do both - they
> took up
> the same location) and some or all of the wiring was already there.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 11:05:32 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Mk II wiring
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Rande
	I need to do a better investigation of this charging system.  I have
2 wires in a wrapped harness that is 60+ inches long and it looks like it
has the big connection with the now yellowed plastic coverings.  It appears
to be a stock Rootes harness but I need to take a closer look.

	I have no idea what was contained in the amp gage option kit for the
Mk II that information would be valuable.  I also need to take a closer look
at what type of amp gage this has; I only remember +35 to -35.

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of rande
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 12:41 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Mk II wiring


'
Side note: Because the MkII Tigers had an alternator, I thought the ammeter

was no longer an official option? If that's true then whatever wiring you're

seeing was added by the dealer or a PO.'

According to the June 1967 parts catalogue, there were LHD and RHD  ammeter
'kits" which seemed to be replaced by individual ammeters for both the
Alpine V (alternator car) and the Tiger Mk II, and the catalogue shows the
same part number used for both of these cars.

In the C.A.T 'Tiger Under-Dash Wiring' illustration, again not
differentiating between Tiger 1, 1A, or II, a brown wire from the ammeter
goes to the starter solenoid, a brown with yellow stripe wire goes to
voltage regulator terminal A, all of this in addition to the illumination
light and the gauge ground harness.


I agree with Ron that routing a wire through the left side of the motor and
around to the other side of the engine compartment is just nuts, in addition
to being pretty sloppy-looking.

I should mention that about ten years ago, I bought a Jaeger ammeter through
the C.A.T. parts department for alternator-equipped Tiger 1A, and it just
came with the wiring and socket for the illumination light, no instructions
and no extra wiring.

Don't gang up on me all at once, and no - I don't do stand up at night, but
is there any likelihood that Rootes included the wiring, like more modern
manufacturers sometimes do, in the harness, making installation easier. I
remember the 1970+ Datsun 510 having an optional clock or tach (couldn't do
both - they took up the same location) and some or all of the wiring was
already there. _______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 12:40:13 2012
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>From the way my ammeter was wired,I suspect that wiring was not part of the kit for Ammeters for Generator cars.  My gauge had never moved off zero, maybe a twitch once in a while, so one day I traced it out.  The installer had run some really thin, maybe #28 or so, plastic insulated wires to a couple points that had little to do with the charging current.   Had 30A run through these wires, there would have been a flash, maybe a fire...  I properly wired it, and now it indicates fine.

My generator car has a +/-30A Ammeter, because that's all the generator could produce.  Didn't the alternators on Mk 2 cars have a much higher output than 30A, so they would need a differernt Ammeter?

Stu 
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Mk II wiring
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Stu
	This ammeter has 35 on the face and it has 2 heavy brown wires
attached.

The original generator was rated at 25A so a 30A gauge seems right.

When I converted my Tiger to an alternator system I used the same 30A
ammeter with a 55A alternator; no problem so far but then I try to keep my
battery charged all the time.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
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Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 2:32 PM
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Cc: rande@thecia.net; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Mk II wiring


>From the way my ammeter was wired,I suspect that wiring was not part of the
kit for Ammeters for Generator cars.  My gauge had never moved off zero,
maybe a twitch once in a while, so one day I traced it out.  The installer
had run some really thin, maybe #28 or so, plastic insulated wires to a
couple points that had little to do with the charging current.   Had 30A run
through these wires, there would have been a flash, maybe a fire...  I
properly wired it, and now it indicates fine.

My generator car has a +/-30A Ammeter, because that's all the generator
could produce.  Didn't the alternators on Mk 2 cars have a much higher
output than 30A, so they would need a differernt Ammeter?

Stu


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 13:44:15 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] MK II wiring help
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Ron:

I don't know if this will help but the Shop Manual shows the wiring for 
an ammeter for a MkIA but not for the MkII.  I know the ammeter was 
optional on the MkIA and the wiring diagram shows the ammeter with 
dashed lines replacing the wire that runs from the "B" (Battery) 
terminal on the voltage regulator to the terminal on the solenoid that 
is connected to the positive battery terminal.  I conclude from this and 
seem to remember that, on my MkIA, the large brown wire going to the 
voltage regulator comes from the solenoid rather than directly from the 
alternator/generator.

At least some of the MkII's had ammeters that matched the other 
instrumentation but it does not look like they were delivered from the 
factory that way which is probably why it is not shown on the wiring 
diagram.  Since the MkII's used alternators, I recollect that the 
ammeter range was higher,  + or - 50 amps, while the MkIA's were + or - 
30 amps.

In the CAT Notes there is an entry entitled, "Ammeter Installation" from 
Greg Tuttle added in the Mid-70s, it says.  To quote,

"... Before doing anything, disconnect the battery. ...

Next, remove the large brown wire from the top pole of the voltage 
regulator.  Remove connector and solder splice another piece of 10 ga 
wire and run back through the firewall to the + (plus) side of the 
meter.  Run another piece of 10 ga wire from the - (negative) side back 
to the regulator and attach to top pole.  Use suitable connectors at all 
four points, as a lot of current passes through them.  Tape splice as 
necessary.

Wire lamp by inserting plug on red wire into connector in harness under 
dash; ground black wire to tach mounting post.

Check that connections are tight and well insulated and reconnect 
battery.  Turn lights on and verify needle moves to - or discharge side 
of meter.  If needle shows + or charge with lights on, reverse the two 
wires on the back of the meter."

Although the instructions may have been written for the MkIA, they 
should also work for the MkII because the large brown wire, in both 
cases, carries the current to and from the positive terminal of the 
battery, and that is, of course, what you want the ammeter to read.

Good luck,

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 14:19:43 2012
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Both to possibly assist Ron and quell my own curiosity:

A. Is he function of the ammeter to show all and any load on the battery 
(less the starter of course)?

Or:

B. Is it to show the output of the alternator regardless of the load on the 
battery?

Each requires a different wiring scheme.

"A" would show all load, but it would be somewhat speculative to the 
functionality of the alternator.

"B" would show the functionality of the alternator, but not the total 
potential load draw on the battery.

It seems that two ammeters wired (differently) for both the "A" and "B" 
senarios would be ideal.

Tom 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 16:08:40 2012
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To coroborate(sp) what Stu said, my original Lucas ammeter for my IA is a -+
30 amp. The Jaeger ammeter for Alternator-equipped cars from C.A.T. is a -+
50 amp.

I wonder if the simplest course isn't to just follow the Shop Notes / United
instructions for switching over a Mark I / IA to an alternator, concentrating
only on what is involved once the alternator is in place. And I don't want to
'throw a Spaniard into the works', but should we factor in or rule out whether
to consider the alternator light simulator resistor that's unique to the Mark
II when Ron is finishing the repair?
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From: "Scott Hutchinson" <shutchin@netjets.com>
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Is it Spaniard or Spanner?
 ;)


Scott Hutchinson
Pilot, NetJets Aviation 

Mobile 843.290.2805

----- Original Message -----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net <tigers-bounces@autox.team.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri Apr 27 18:08:27 2012
Subject: [Tigers] Mk II wiring help - more

To coroborate(sp) what Stu said, my original Lucas ammeter for my IA is a -+
30 amp. The Jaeger ammeter for Alternator-equipped cars from C.A.T. is a -+
50 amp.

I wonder if the simplest course isn't to just follow the Shop Notes / United
instructions for switching over a Mark I / IA to an alternator, concentrating
only on what is involved once the alternator is in place. And I don't want to
'throw a Spaniard into the works', but should we factor in or rule out whether
to consider the alternator light simulator resistor that's unique to the Mark
II when Ron is finishing the repair?
_______________________________________________

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Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Mk II wiring help - more
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk II wiring help - more
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Hi Rande,
So long as Ron puts the ammeter into the circuit in the right place, the
alternator light won't factor in... if you were to do the wiring as noted in
the Mk1A diagram, where the fused but unswitched circuits are on the opposite
side of the ammeter from the rest of the alternator and 12V 'hot' stuff, you
may see some odd behavior, especially if the ammeter connections were at all
dirty.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rande
> Sent: April 27, 2012 4:08 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Mk II wiring help - more
>
> To coroborate(sp) what Stu said, my original Lucas ammeter for my IA is
> a -+
> 30 amp. The Jaeger ammeter for Alternator-equipped cars from C.A.T. is
> a -+
> 50 amp.
>
> I wonder if the simplest course isn't to just follow the Shop Notes /
> United
> instructions for switching over a Mark I / IA to an alternator,
> concentrating
> only on what is involved once the alternator is in place. And I don't
> want to
> 'throw a Spaniard into the works', but should we factor in or rule out
> whether
> to consider the alternator light simulator resistor that's unique to
> the Mark
> II when Ron is finishing the repair?
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>


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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 16:02:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tony Somebody <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: TheoSmit <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
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Cc: Beamclub <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Intelligence amongest !
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It is great to have Theo and others too but Theo does have a lot of knowledge about several subjects and it is nice to have him and others of his caliber in our group. Electricity(ac or dc) is unforgiving and hooked up wrong- well it just travels fast- 60 cycles on ac and directly to the ground thru the clock for example and if I accidently put the wires on wrong, Lucas smoke appears so fast you might use profane language even if you serve the Lord daily. I suppose my point is that we are a lucky bunch to have so many intelligent Tiger owners amongest our group. My donation for the day.
Tony Lang (TtT)
I dont remember my VIN or my TAC numbers but just for the record and once only, I do own both. 
--- On Fri, 4/27/12, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com> wrote:


From: Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk II wiring help - more
To: "rande@thecia.net" <rande@thecia.net>, "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, April 27, 2012, 5:14 PM


Hi Rande,
So long as Ron puts the ammeter into the circuit in the right place, the
alternator light won't factor in... if you were to do the wiring as noted in
the Mk1A diagram, where the fused but unswitched circuits are on the opposite
side of the ammeter from the rest of the alternator and 12V 'hot' stuff, you
may see some odd behavior, especially if the ammeter connections were at all
dirty.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rande
> Sent: April 27, 2012 4:08 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Mk II wiring help - more
>
> To coroborate(sp) what Stu said, my original Lucas ammeter for my IA is
> a -+
> 30 amp. The Jaeger ammeter for Alternator-equipped cars from C.A.T. is
> a -+
> 50 amp.
>
> I wonder if the simplest course isn't to just follow the Shop Notes /
> United
> instructions for switching over a Mark I / IA to an alternator,
> concentrating
> only on what is involved once the alternator is in place. And I don't
> want to
> 'throw a Spaniard into the works', but should we factor in or rule out
> whether
> to consider the alternator light simulator resistor that's unique to
> the Mark
> II when Ron is finishing the repair?
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


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Subject: [Tigers] Tail Lights
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So, what is the correct allocation for top and bottom sections of the
taillights, as far as running, signals, and brakes?

Jeff Holt
Huntsville, UT
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Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 12:56:23 +1000
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From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights
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indicator lights go to the top, brake/tail to the bottom

On 28/04/2012, Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com> wrote:
> So, what is the correct allocation for top and bottom sections of the
> taillights, as far as running, signals, and brakes?
>
> Jeff Holt
> Huntsville, UT
> _______________________________________________
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-- 
Regards

Michael King
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 139
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Wordpress is ideally suited for this.  There are a lot of "themes" to 
choose from as templates - look for one that is oriented towards a 
photo-based site if you want to store lots of photos.  It's very easy to 
use and best of all it's free.....

Chris

On 4/26/2012 3:15 PM, Tom Pappenhagen  wrote:
> I'm starting my long, long awaited restoration of my MK1 Tiger.  The car was dipped and stripped and now needs paint and reassembly.   I'm looking for a site to host pictures and a commentary as I rebuild it.  Any suggestions for a good site to capture this adventure on?  TIA.
>
>
>
>
>
> Tom
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 03:38:58 2012
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Subject: [Tigers] More wiring, sort of
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Hi,
Yes, the original phrase is 'spanner in the works', but I was trying to be a
little cute by referencing the John Lennon book of the mid-1960s with the titled
turn of phrase, A Spaniard in the Works.

RB (with sincere deference to Spain)

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of works.jpg]
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Jeff
	For Safety reasons and to be more visible at night; I collected
enough parts to convert the top turn lights to a double element bulb so both
sections light up for tail lights.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of michael king
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 10:56 PM
To: Jeff Holt
Cc: Tiger List
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights


indicator lights go to the top, brake/tail to the bottom

On 28/04/2012, Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com> wrote:
> So, what is the correct allocation for top and bottom sections of the
> taillights, as far as running, signals, and brakes?
>
> Jeff Holt
> Huntsville, UT _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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>


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Michael King
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 06:30:15 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk II wiring help - more
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	I'm not concerned about my Mk IA alternator conversion; it works
just fine and so does the ignition light.

My concern is that I'm working on a Mk II that has what I believe is a poor
installation of an ammeter.

I would like to confirm with a Mk II owner that has an amp gauge:

1 - how is the amp gauge wire harness loomed in the car.

2 - how is the amp gauge wire harness spliced into the Mk II charging
system.

Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of rande
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 6:08 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Mk II wiring help - more


To coroborate(sp) what Stu said, my original Lucas ammeter for my IA is a -+
30 amp. The Jaeger ammeter for Alternator-equipped cars from C.A.T. is a -+
50 amp.

I wonder if the simplest course isn't to just follow the Shop Notes / United
instructions for switching over a Mark I / IA to an alternator,
concentrating only on what is involved once the alternator is in place. And
I don't want to 'throw a Spaniard into the works', but should we factor in
or rule out whether to consider the alternator light simulator resistor
that's unique to the Mark II when Ron is finishing the repair?
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights
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Cool!



Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

-----Original Message-----
From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Sender: tigers-bounces@autox.team.netDate: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 08:20:09 
To: 'michael king'<michael.s.king@gmail.com>; 'Jeff Holt'<jeff.holt7@gmail.com>
Reply-To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: 'Tiger List'<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights

Jeff
	For Safety reasons and to be more visible at night; I collected
enough parts to convert the top turn lights to a double element bulb so both
sections light up for tail lights.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of michael king
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 10:56 PM
To: Jeff Holt
Cc: Tiger List
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights


indicator lights go to the top, brake/tail to the bottom

On 28/04/2012, Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com> wrote:
> So, what is the correct allocation for top and bottom sections of the
> taillights, as far as running, signals, and brakes?
>
> Jeff Holt
> Huntsville, UT _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>
>
>


--
Regards

Michael King
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 08:19:31 2012
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From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 10:12:14 -0400
To: "rfraser@bluefrog.com" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Cc: Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com>, Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights
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So what happens when you indicate?  The top light gets a bit brighter?  I find
that style of indicator very dangerous as its barely visible.  It's not legal
in the rest of the world which is why you only find it on American cars.  I
changed to the british style orange lenses for the indicators.   It doesn't
look as nice as all red tail lights but I just think indicators should be
orange!

On Apr 28, 2012, at 8:20 AM, " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Jeff
>    For Safety reasons and to be more visible at night; I collected
> enough parts to convert the top turn lights to a double element bulb so
both
> sections light up for tail lights.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of michael king
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 10:56 PM
> To: Jeff Holt
> Cc: Tiger List
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights
>
>
> indicator lights go to the top, brake/tail to the bottom
>
> On 28/04/2012, Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com> wrote:
>> So, what is the correct allocation for top and bottom sections of the
>> taillights, as far as running, signals, and brakes?
>>
>> Jeff Holt
>> Huntsville, UT _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 08:35:13 2012
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Cc: 'Jeff Holt' <jeff.holt7@gmail.com>, 'Tiger List' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights
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Owain
	When I indicate the 27 watt element lights up which is very visible
- the tail light element is 8 watt.
I like the Orange indicator lens too but it is not legal to have it lit up
for a tail light.   I think having both upper and lower red sections as tail
lights is more visible for night time driving.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: Owain Lloyd [mailto:owain.lloyd@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 10:12 AM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: michael king; Jeff Holt; Tiger List
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights


So what happens when you indicate?  The top light gets a bit brighter?  I
find that style of indicator very dangerous as its barely visible.  It's not
legal in the rest of the world which is why you only find it on American
cars.  I changed to the british style orange lenses for the indicators.   It
doesn't look as nice as all red tail lights but I just think indicators
should be orange!

On Apr 28, 2012, at 8:20 AM, " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Jeff
>    For Safety reasons and to be more visible at night; I collected
> enough parts to convert the top turn lights to a double element bulb
> so both sections light up for tail lights.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of michael king
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 10:56 PM
> To: Jeff Holt
> Cc: Tiger List
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights
>
>
> indicator lights go to the top, brake/tail to the bottom
>
> On 28/04/2012, Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com> wrote:
>> So, what is the correct allocation for top and bottom sections of the
>> taillights, as far as running, signals, and brakes?
>>
>> Jeff Holt
>> Huntsville, UT _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
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>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com
>
>


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2411/4962 - Release Date: 04/27/12
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 12:49:34 2012
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From: Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>
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Cc: Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com>, Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights
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Ron:

I have installed halogen bulbs in the "red" section of my rear lights
- brake and tail elements - and they are incredibly bright. the first
time  out I was followed home after dark by a friend, who came right
up my drive to tell me my brake lights were stuck on!

Then I put my brakes on with him watching and he was dazzled.
I'm not sure this is a good thing, but I haven't changed the bulbs back.

These new halogen, and now LED replacements for standard bulbs, are
incredibly bright. Perhaps you have a better solution.

Dave




Sent from my iPad

On 2012-04-28, at 11:35 AM, Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Owain
>    When I indicate the 27 watt element lights up which is very visible
> - the tail light element is 8 watt.
> I like the Orange indicator lens too but it is not legal to have it lit up
> for a tail light.   I think having both upper and lower red sections as tail
> lights is more visible for night time driving.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Owain Lloyd [mailto:owain.lloyd@gmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 10:12 AM
> To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
> Cc: michael king; Jeff Holt; Tiger List
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights
>
>
> So what happens when you indicate?  The top light gets a bit brighter?  I
> find that style of indicator very dangerous as its barely visible.  It's not
> legal in the rest of the world which is why you only find it on American
> cars.  I changed to the british style orange lenses for the indicators.   It
> doesn't look as nice as all red tail lights but I just think indicators
> should be orange!
>
> On Apr 28, 2012, at 8:20 AM, " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:
>
>> Jeff
>>   For Safety reasons and to be more visible at night; I collected
>> enough parts to convert the top turn lights to a double element bulb
>> so both sections light up for tail lights.
>>
>> Ron Fraser
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of michael king
>> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 10:56 PM
>> To: Jeff Holt
>> Cc: Tiger List
>> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights
>>
>>
>> indicator lights go to the top, brake/tail to the bottom
>>
>> On 28/04/2012, Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> So, what is the correct allocation for top and bottom sections of the
>>> taillights, as far as running, signals, and brakes?
>>>
>>> Jeff Holt
>>> Huntsville, UT _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Regards
>>
>> Michael King
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2411/4962 - Release Date: 04/27/12
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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_______________________________________________

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Cc: 'Jeff Holt' <jeff.holt7@gmail.com>, 'Tiger List' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights
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Dave
	Halogen bulbs are great as long as they don't get too hot and start
melting plastic.  LED replacements show promise but I still read about some
problems with them.   I have not experimented with LED bulbs so I don't know
how good or bad they may be.  Others on the list have worked with them some.
	If your friend thought your brake lights were on then so will others
including the police but until they stop you your good to go.

	Probably the main problem with the tail lights is the reflector cup
no longer reflects light well and the other problem is dirt on the inside of
the lenses.

	I just cleaned the inside of my lenses with soapy water and a
toothbrush.   There was a lot of dust on all those small surfaces.   I also
noticed that the reflector cup was very dull.  I'm not sure at the moment
what I'll do to increase the cups reflectivity.   It's low priority on the
To Do list right now.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Munroe [mailto:dave@munroe.ca]
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 2:46 PM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: Owain Lloyd; Jeff Holt; Tiger List
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights


Ron:

I have installed halogen bulbs in the "red" section of my rear lights
- brake and tail elements - and they are incredibly bright. the first time
out I was followed home after dark by a friend, who came right up my drive
to tell me my brake lights were stuck on!

Then I put my brakes on with him watching and he was dazzled. I'm not sure
this is a good thing, but I haven't changed the bulbs back.

These new halogen, and now LED replacements for standard bulbs, are
incredibly bright. Perhaps you have a better solution.

Dave




Sent from my iPad

On 2012-04-28, at 11:35 AM, Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Owain
>    When I indicate the 27 watt element lights up which is very visible
> - the tail light element is 8 watt.
> I like the Orange indicator lens too but it is not legal to have it lit up
> for a tail light.   I think having both upper and lower red sections as
tail
> lights is more visible for night time driving.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Owain Lloyd [mailto:owain.lloyd@gmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 10:12 AM
> To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
> Cc: michael king; Jeff Holt; Tiger List
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights
>
>
> So what happens when you indicate?  The top light gets a bit brighter?
> I find that style of indicator very dangerous as its barely visible.
> It's not legal in the rest of the world which is why you only find it on
American
> cars.  I changed to the british style orange lenses for the indicators.
It
> doesn't look as nice as all red tail lights but I just think
> indicators should be orange!
>
> On Apr 28, 2012, at 8:20 AM, " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Jeff
>>   For Safety reasons and to be more visible at night; I collected
>> enough parts to convert the top turn lights to a double element bulb
>> so both sections light up for tail lights.
>>
>> Ron Fraser
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of michael king
>> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 10:56 PM
>> To: Jeff Holt
>> Cc: Tiger List
>> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tail Lights
>>
>>
>> indicator lights go to the top, brake/tail to the bottom
>>
>> On 28/04/2012, Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> So, what is the correct allocation for top and bottom sections of
>>> the taillights, as far as running, signals, and brakes?
>>>
>>> Jeff Holt
>>> Huntsville, UT _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.co
>>> m
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Regards
>>
>> Michael King
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
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>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2411/4962 - Release Date:
> 04/27/12 _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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>


-----
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Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2411/4962 - Release Date: 04/27/12
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 13:39:06 2012
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While working on one problem I accidently caused another, as anyone who
tried to get to the forums, the mailman admin page, the donate link or
whatever during the last 12 hours or so would know.

The server is now responding, though the problems I was working on are 
still
unresolved.  I'd rather be at The Mitty!

mjb.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 07:28:33 2012
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Subject: [Tigers]  MK II Wiring, Ammeter
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Hi Tom,
 
The answer is;:
 
A. The function of the ammeter is to show all the load on  the battery, in 
or out. 
(less the starter of course)?
 
John Logan
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Subject: [Tigers] Dual Filament Running /Stoplight
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For Safety reasons and to be more visible at night; I collected enough  
parts to convert the top turn lights to a double element bulb so both sections  
light up for tail lights.

Ron Fraser



Ron,
 
If you are interested in how to hook up your parts for the dual filament  
running / stoplight in the top location of the tail light, go to the December 
 2001 issue of the TE/AE Rootes Review. 
 
If any one else is interested, I'll send you a copy.
 
John Logan
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 A more recent owner ask me about what kube he should use in his Mk1 and I
found a shop mannual and read him what they reccomended BUT Im sure I recall a
discussion abiut what is in certain lubes, the use of synthetics etc. I told
him I would ask the List and see what most are now running. I have to get the
synthetic gear lube out of the 5 speed and get synthetic ATF this week- hoping
a new pump from NAPA will work after removing the shifter, adding ATF and
maybe changing it again- depending on how much I can remove. I lost the
measurement for holes when my yahoo account was stolen- had a ton of important
Tiger info in folders- not sure if it was the theif or yahoo that did away
with them. Makes a person want to keep them in two places- just in case.
Thanks in advance for helping Damian, he is getting hooked fast. Have to love
new Tiger owners!
TtT in southern Il.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 15:33:06 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Orginal 4 speed gear lube
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Tony, the short version of my earlier posts is to generally stay away from GL-5 oils. The vast majority seem to use a brass syncro attacking sulfur additive to achieve their GL-5 rating. GL-4 oils are much more syncro friendly. 

I recommended Red Line MT-90 75W90 GL-4 gear oil. I subsequently learned Red Line makes what they claim is a syncro friendly GL-5 oil. It is called 75W90 NS GL-5 which is specifically recommended for Ford Toploaders and other muscle car trans. (I wonder if the "NS" in the name means "no sulfur"...) Check out the Red Line website for more details. 

Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Somebody" <achd73@yahoo.com> 
To: "Beamclub" <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 3:52:43 PM 
Subject: [Tigers] Orginal 4 speed gear lube 

A more recent owner ask me about what kube he should use in his Mk1 and I 
found a shop mannual and read him what they reccomended BUT Im sure I recall a 
discussion abiut what is in certain lubes, the use of synthetics etc. I told 
him I would ask the List and see what most are now running. I have to get the 
synthetic gear lube out of the 5 speed and get synthetic ATF this week- hoping 
a new pump from NAPA will work after removing the shifter, adding ATF and 
maybe changing it again- depending on how much I can remove. I lost the 
measurement for holes when my yahoo account was stolen- had a ton of important 
Tiger info in folders- not sure if it was the theif or yahoo that did away 
with them. Makes a person want to keep them in two places- just in case. 
Thanks in advance for helping Damian, he is getting hooked fast. Have to love 
new Tiger owners! 
TtT in southern Il. 
_______________________________________________ 

tigers@autox.team.net 

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Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 14:33:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tony Somebody <achd73@yahoo.com>
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John Logan, I would like a copy- I dont thing the TE/AE newsletter, internet
type, goes back that far. Im pretty sure I know exactly what wires need to go
where but they prolly have a better method for splicing then together than I
will. Ive waited this long so a few more days/weks cant hurt.
 
How about Brown County Cobra/Tiger get together- Anyone besides myself and
Dave Johnsons son bringing a Tiger- we should win trophies if not. I have a
Cobra and a Shelby intake Im thinking about seeing if they have a parts  place
like at Tiger Uniteds BUT I have no idea the value or even remember what I
paid- I wasnt sure I had real ones until the last time I was able to inspect
the Mustangs and they are exact. Anyone have a number they would reccomend, I
have to start selling parts for a new engine but Duke has me convnced I will
end up dead if I duplicate his build. Wanting to make a run to Kansaa to visit
a friend and ride in Dukes Tiger. They have a nice drag strip there dont they
Duke?  I cant believe there was a wide ratio for the asking either. How do we
get in line Duke ?? LOL I think you need it more than me, so I hope you find
one as well. Lastly, I had requested the measurements for cutting holes in the
tunnel to add fluid and or drain
 same on a AMC T5 conversion. Info was lost if the ppl who replied wouldnt
mind doing so again. My carpet is glued down, I hate taking it up but if I
cant use the NAPA pump, I have no ther choice- remove the drive shaft and hold
car in air with a crane or a real Cherry Picker- not an engine hoist. Thanks
to everyone who helps with these problems of late. Cheers, TtT 

--- On Sun, 4/29/12, Carmods@aol.com <Carmods@aol.com> wrot



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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 15:49:18 2012
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Along these lines, where do you get plain old 90 wt gear oil without any 
fancy GL5 additives these days?  I put some 80W90 in mine, and it feels more 
like there's WD40 in there, compared to the older 90 wt stuff.  Plus it's 
GL5.  If anyone knows of a dealer in eastern Mass or RI, even better.

Also, what's good for the stock diff?  Does it mind GL5?  Others may be 
interested in synthetics, but I'll stick with regular old dino oil, thanks.

Stu 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 15:49:36 2012
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Tony, the "reply to all" e-mail option rejected the address directly to you. It looks like the List system has a different e-mail address, one with two "c's" in it ? 

Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Somebody" <achd73@yahoo.com> 
To: "Beamclub" <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 3:52:43 PM 
Subject: [Tigers] Orginal 4 speed gear lube 

A more recent owner ask me about what kube he should use in his Mk1 and I 
found a shop mannual and read him what they reccomended BUT Im sure I recall a 
discussion abiut what is in certain lubes, the use of synthetics etc. I told 
him I would ask the List and see what most are now running. I have to get the 
synthetic gear lube out of the 5 speed and get synthetic ATF this week- hoping 
a new pump from NAPA will work after removing the shifter, adding ATF and 
maybe changing it again- depending on how much I can remove. I lost the 
measurement for holes when my yahoo account was stolen- had a ton of important 
Tiger info in folders- not sure if it was the theif or yahoo that did away 
with them. Makes a person want to keep them in two places- just in case. 
Thanks in advance for helping Damian, he is getting hooked fast. Have to love 
new Tiger owners! 
TtT in southern Il. 
_______________________________________________ 

tigers@autox.team.net 

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With the car at the shop for painting, I need to decide whether to fill the
vertical seams at the front and back of the sills (rockers). I've seen
pictures both ways, which suggest they shouldn't be filled, is this correct?
I've already know that the body will not be completely stock, but I kind of
like them unfilled. TIA.






Tom
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 16:36:18 2012
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From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: Tom Pappenhagen <pappentl@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] to fill or not to fill
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The MKI Tigers with round corner doors and bonnet have the seams on
the front and rear scuttle filled and the rear seam on the sill
filled. The front sill joint at the leading edge of the door is not
filled.

On the MKIA and MKII the front scuttle is not filled and neither are
the sill joints, the rear scuttle is still filled.

As for is you should.. well all SI-3 Alpines had all the joints
filled, i think they stopped filling joints on the square cornered
cars as the lines align to the panels, where as on the round corner
cars they would look odd.. some say cost cutting, i think it also has
to do with the change in panel edge...

either way.. do it correct if you want.. or as you like if you feel like it!

-- 
Regards

Michael King
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 16:39:29 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] to fill or not to fill
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Tom
	Generally Tigers with round cornered doors have the seam filled,
Tigers with square cornered doors are unfilled.

Above all, it's your Tiger do it the way that makes you happy.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Pappenhagen
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 6:22 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] to fill or not to fill


With the car at the shop for painting, I need to decide whether to fill the
vertical seams at the front and back of the sills (rockers). I've seen
pictures both ways, which suggest they shouldn't be filled, is this correct?
I've already know that the body will not be completely stock, but I kind of
like them unfilled. TIA.






Tom
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 20:02:44 2012
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Subject: [Tigers] 2012 British and European classic car show
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Listers,

Some pictures from the 2012 British and european car show help at
flemington racecourse in melbourne, nice weather given we are into autumn,
and a great turnout of cars... pictures for your viewing pleasure:

http://community.webshots.com/album/582722178WNIFIw

-- 
Regards

Michael King
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From: "Mark Rense" <mark44124@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original 4 speed gear lube
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I have been a long time user of Redline oils, including their gear oils.
It's good stuff, and holds up. Here is a link to the oil they developed for
the older transmissions, it works great in Toploaders. It is not cheap, but
works a lot better than the crap sold in most auto parts stores. Buy it from
Summit Racing.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=47&pcid=7

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RED-58304/


Bugz
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From: "Buck Trippel" <BuckTrippel@Verizon.net>
To: "Mark Rense" <mark44124@gmail.com>,	<tigers@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original 4 speed gear lube
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I have had great luck with this Redline product. We've used it exclusively 
in both the tranny and rear end on our race Tiger. Same tranny & rear end 
for 9 seasons & both are still going strong.

Buck Trippel

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Rense" <mark44124@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original 4 speed gear lube


>I have been a long time user of Redline oils, including their gear oils.
> It's good stuff, and holds up. Here is a link to the oil they developed 
> for
> the older transmissions, it works great in Toploaders. It is not cheap, 
> but
> works a lot better than the crap sold in most auto parts stores. Buy it 
> from
> Summit Racing.
>
> http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=47&pcid=7
>
> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RED-58304/
>
>
> Bugz
> _______________________________________________
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 30 12:24:26 2012
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Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 10:39:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: david gilmore <dave.gilmore@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Stripes needed
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Hi All.  Anyone out there have a scrap 14 1/2 inches long of the stripe kit
that Dale's Restoration sells for the 67 MKII?  this is a red car so white
strip with two small black ones.  The kit offers very little extra and we had
a screw up.  Dale will sell a whole kit only ($150).  If nobody has a piece,
any other MKII owners who are planning on doing the original side stripe want
to go in on an extra set?  Just about guarantee you will need additional
material!

Thank you,
Dave Gilmore
Leawood, Ks
Cell 913-488-1459
Home 913-381-1459
_______________________________________________

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Subject: [Tigers] need MKII stripe scrap
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Hi All. Anyone out there have a scrap 14 1/2 inches long of the stripe kit that Dale's Restoration sells for the 67 MKII? this is a red car so white strip with two small black ones. The kit offers very little extra and we had a screw up. Dale will sell a whole kit only ($150). If nobody has a piece, any other MKII owners who are planning on doing the original side stripe want to go in on an extra set? Just about guarantee you will need additional material!

Thank you,
Dave Gilmore
Leawood, Ks
Cell 913-488-1459
Home 913-381-1459

Thank you,
Dave Gilmore
Cell 913-488-1459
Home 913-381-1459
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 30 13:41:39 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Stripes needed
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Find someone in your area that does graphics. Have them repro what you  
need. Then you can start selling "KITS"
 
 
In a message dated 4/30/2012 11:25:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
dave.gilmore@sbcglobal.net writes:

Hi  All.  Anyone out there have a scrap 14 1/2 inches long of the stripe  
kit
that Dale's Restoration sells for the 67 MKII?  this is a red car  so white
strip with two small black ones.  The kit offers very little  extra and we 
had
a screw up.  Dale will sell a whole kit only  ($150).  If nobody has a 
piece,
any other MKII owners who are planning  on doing the original side stripe 
want
to go in on an extra set?  Just  about guarantee you will need additional
material!

Thank  you,
Dave Gilmore
Leawood, Ks
Cell 913-488-1459
Home  913-381-1459
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Hello,
 
Like to try the Redline in my tranny (stock)
 
How much is in there?
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 147
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3-1/4 pints according to the shop mannual.
TtT

--- On Mon, 4/30/12, Rollright@aol.com <Rollright@aol.com> wrote:


From: Rollright@aol.com <Rollright@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 147
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 30, 2012, 3:31 PM


Hello,

Like to try the Redline in my tranny (stock)

How much is in there?


Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A
382002083
LRXFE
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 30 16:38:48 2012
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Subject: [Tigers] gear oil
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Being as anal-retentive as I am, I noticed the link provided earlier to the
Redline oils GL-5 product says great for Toploaders, but does NOT specifically
state that it is protective of the brass syncros like their GL-4 product
states. I assume the Toploader has brass in the syncros, no? A couple of
questions:
1. My toploader upshifts perfectly, but downshifting not so well. I suspect
the syncros are worn, but if I wanted to try a different fluid, which of these
Redline products would be best for balky syncros?  (Currently running GL-4
product from NAPA)
2. The product you guys recommend for the tranny okay for the diff as well?
 
Thanks!
Bill 
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this is a test only!
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 147
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Tony
	You have to be careful when reading the shop manual.
Yes it states 3-1/4 pints, then it states 4 US pints.

The English are coming, the English are coming.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tony Somebody
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 5:54 PM
To: Rollright@aol.com
Cc: Beamclub
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 147


3-1/4 pints according to the shop mannual.
TtT

--- On Mon, 4/30/12, Rollright@aol.com <Rollright@aol.com> wrote:


From: Rollright@aol.com <Rollright@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 147
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 30, 2012, 3:31 PM


Hello,

Like to try the Redline in my tranny (stock)

How much is in there?


Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A
382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________

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-----
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 147
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CORRECTION on the traany lube ammount. The shop mannial does say 3-1/4 pints
BUT beside of those numbers it also says 4 US pints. My apologises to Jim and
the List for not reading far enough and THANKS to Gene for catching my
mistake.
Cheers, TtT

--- On Mon, 4/30/12, Tony Somebody <achd73@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Tony Somebody <achd73@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 147
To: Rollright@aol.com
Cc: "Beamclub" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, April 30, 2012, 4:53 PM


3-1/4 pints according to the shop mannual.
TtT

--- On Mon, 4/30/12, Rollright@aol.com <Rollright@aol.com> wrote:


From: Rollright@aol.com <Rollright@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 147
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 30, 2012, 3:31 PM


Hello,

Like to try the Redline in my tranny (stock)

How much is in there?


Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A
382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 30 19:47:32 2012
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From: "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com>
To: david gilmore <dave.gilmore@sbcglobal.net>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 20:51:30 -0400
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tiger Stripes needed
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Stripes needed
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Try Phoenix Graphics.  They have a large archive of automotive decals and may
be willing/able to produce a portion.  They were willing to make the "Shelby"
portion of a mid 80's Shelby/Dodge Charger when we restored it for land speed
racing.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of david gilmore
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 10:40 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Stripes needed

Hi All.  Anyone out there have a scrap 14 1/2 inches long of the stripe kit
that Dale's Restoration sells for the 67 MKII?  this is a red car so white
strip with two small black ones.  The kit offers very little extra and we had
a screw up.  Dale will sell a whole kit only ($150).  If nobody has a piece,
any other MKII owners who are planning on doing the original side stripe want
to go in on an extra set?  Just about guarantee you will need additional
material!

Thank you,
Dave Gilmore
Leawood, Ks
Cell 913-488-1459
Home 913-381-1459
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 30 19:55:10 2012
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From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 21:12:44 -0400
To: "rfraser@bluefrog.com" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Cc: "<Rollright@aol.com>" <Rollright@aol.com>,
	"<acchd73@yahoo.com>" <acchd73@yahoo.com>, Beamclub <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 147
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US/imperial/brewer's/baker's/milkmans pint!  Ton/tonne/hundred
weight/stone....  You've got to _hate_ non metric units.  Fluid ounces is my
pet hate - it's just plain incorrect.  It's a measure of volume yet it's using
a unit of weight (not even mass!) of, I can only guess, water at sea level?
Cup.... (is there such thing as a standard cup?).  And It's the same unit used
for liquid and powder (eg flour)!!!!  Please!  Arrrgggh.  Let's stick to
litres and kilos please!

Rant over :)


On Apr 30, 2012, at 7:45 PM, " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Tony
>    You have to be careful when reading the shop manual.
> Yes it states 3-1/4 pints, then it states 4 US pints.
>
> The English are coming, the English are coming.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Tony Somebody
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 5:54 PM
> To: Rollright@aol.com
> Cc: Beamclub
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 147
>
>
> 3-1/4 pints according to the shop mannual.
> TtT
>
> --- On Mon, 4/30/12, Rollright@aol.com <Rollright@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> From: Rollright@aol.com <Rollright@aol.com>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 147
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, April 30, 2012, 3:31 PM
>
>
> Hello,
>
> Like to try the Redline in my tranny (stock)
>
> How much is in there?
>
>
> Jim  Armstrong
> Mk 1A
> 382002083
> LRXFE
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2411/4969 - Release Date: 04/30/12
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 30 19:58:30 2012
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original 4 speed gear lube
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Amen



-----Original Message-----
From: Buck Trippel <BuckTrippel@Verizon.net>
To: Mark Rense <mark44124@gmail.com>; tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Apr 29, 2012 11:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original 4 speed gear lube


I have had great luck with this Redline product. We've used it exclusively
in both the tranny and rear end on our race Tiger. Same tranny & rear end
for 9 seasons & both are still going strong.

Buck Trippel

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Rense" <mark44124@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original 4 speed gear lube


>I have been a long time user of Redline oils, including their gear oils.
> It's good stuff, and holds up. Here is a link to the oil they developed
> for
> the older transmissions, it works great in Toploaders. It is not cheap,
> but
> works a lot better than the crap sold in most auto parts stores. Buy it
> from
> Summit Racing.
>
> http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=47&pcid=7
>
> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RED-58304/
>
>
> Bugz
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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