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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 11:46:21 -0400
From: kevin beck <kevinteresa.beck74@gmail.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] vent
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Just courious. Where does the vent in the rear wheel well go,  I can see
where they go thru the wheel well and fasten to the car but thats it.
Thanks Kevin
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From: "RObin Young" <robin02@mindspring.com>
To: "'kevin beck'" <kevinteresa.beck74@gmail.com>,
  <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOkYmCkF_9APdtM_K+M=OZU+GqnVajOiffSEhxkv77u3S9c52g@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 12:05:28 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] vent
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 Kevin,Are you referring tom the drain for the rag top storage area?  RObin

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of kevin beck
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2013 11:46 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] vent

Just courious. Where does the vent in the rear wheel well go,  I can see
where they go thru the wheel well and fasten to the car but thats it.
Thanks Kevin
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 09:06:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Battery cable routing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

What is the correct routing of the long + battery cable for 66 Mk 1A?
 
Thanks
Joel Martin
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 09:15:19 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: kevin beck <kevinteresa.beck74@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] vent
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

It has been a long time.  But I recall one hole for the shoulder harness
nut and one might have had a tube for a drain from the convertible top
storage area.


On Tue, Apr 2, 2013 at 8:46 AM, kevin beck <kevinteresa.beck74@gmail.com>wrote:

> Just courious. Where does the vent in the rear wheel well go,  I can see
> where they go thru the wheel well and fasten to the car but thats it.
> Thanks Kevin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  2 11:08:16 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'kevin beck'" <kevinteresa.beck74@gmail.com>,
  <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 12:42:17 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac4vu42EZtM5/aP/SSWWEe+cvuexOAAA4Yog
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] vent
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Kevin
	It took me a bit of head scratching to understand your question.

I think your asking about the water drain for the convertible top gutter.

There is a rubber hose that connects under the convertible top hinge and
runs through the rear wheel well.

Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of kevin beck
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2013 11:46 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] vent


Just courious. Where does the vent in the rear wheel well go,  I can see
where they go thru the wheel well and fasten to the car but thats it. Thanks
Kevin _______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  2 13:12:47 2013
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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 11:55:34 -0700
From: <e.coiner@cox.net>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, Tiger List Serve
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Battery cable routing
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Starting in the trunk.
It goes through a hole in divider that covers the right side gas tank/
Goes over the top of the right side wheel well.
drops down to the floor and travels forward on the floor next to the door sill.
It is covered by a cardboard piece that the carpet rest on to create space for it.
Goes up the firewall and through a hole under the brake booster.

---- Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> wrote: 
> What is the correct routing of the long + battery cable for 66 Mk 1A?
>  
> Thanks
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers@autox.team.net
> 
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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Right Front Inner Fender Details
Thread-Index: Ac4v1Cs8bAJtEr1cRbO/lieeH0SjBA==
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 18:59:13 +0000
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Subject: [Tigers] Right Front Inner Fender Details
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi All,
Does anyone have a picture of the correct brake tubing/electrical routing
through the inner fender holes under the generator? I'm trying to correct some
wrongs on my car. Please send directly or steer me to a web address.

Thanks,

Bugz
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From: "rande" <rande@thecia.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 17:07:02 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers - New England TAC date
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Folks,

I just learned that we are having trouble finding the necessary three inspectors
for the New England TAC inspection for May 11.
For now, we're still planning on a Spring date for the inspection, but it looks
as though the date of May 11 is the sticking point, and it may need to be advanced.
I will keep everyone posted, and we may know by the end of the week.

The people already looking for an inspection are as follows:

Don A.
Mark L.
Jeff R.
Tym M.
John M.
Owain L.
George R.

Again, I will keep everyone posted on any news about the TAC session.

Rande Bellman
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  2 20:22:22 2013
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 21:49:23 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/221208987178?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.
m1438.l2649#ht_152wt_1006
 
I have a set of these on my 66. Look and sound great and fit very well. If  
you need a set this is a good deal. I have no financial interest in  this.
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 04:48:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: dave@munroe.ca
To: AAAGLASSS@aol.com, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  3 10:07:53 2013
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From: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>
To: <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <17e1e.467f10fd.3e8ce4a3@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 12:42:50 -0300
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

No question - these are great pipes.

They are an incredibly good fit. Practically leap onto your car and install 
themselves. They look great and sound original. I have these on my car and 
love them.

I have no financial or other interest but when a product comes along that is 
this good, it needs to be endorsed.

Buy them while they last!

Dave


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2013 10:49 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221208987178?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.
> m1438.l2649#ht_152wt_1006
>
> I have a set of these on my 66. Look and sound great and fit very well. If
> you need a set this is a good deal. I have no financial interest in  this.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave@munroe.ca
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From: "Will Seay" <wseay@embarqmail.com>
To: <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <17e1e.467f10fd.3e8ce4a3@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 11:57:30 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac4wEbY3GaQI9DuoQ1GOJlJt66MO7AAcggag
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
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$100 "economy" shipping seems a bit steep to me

Will Seay_____________
wseay@embarqmail.com
"I think not therefore I am not" (anon)

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2013 9:49 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221208987178?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.
m1438.l2649#ht_152wt_1006
 
I have a set of these on my 66. Look and sound great and fit very well. If you
need a set this is a good deal. I have no financial interest in  this. 
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  3 11:09:01 2013
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 09:45:04 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120907
	Thunderbird/15.0.1
To: tigers@autox.team.net
References: <17e1e.467f10fd.3e8ce4a3@aol.com>
	<000001ce3083$f31fce40$d95f6ac0$@com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

You ever ship a pile of pipe? Takes up a lot of room and hard to handle 
to boot. Plus may be a bit heavy also.

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed

On 4/3/2013 8:57 AM, Will Seay wrote:
> $100 "economy" shipping seems a bit steep to me
>
> Will Seay_____________
> wseay@embarqmail.com
> "I think not therefore I am not" (anon)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of AAAGLASSS@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2013 9:49 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221208987178?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.
> m1438.l2649#ht_152wt_1006
>   
> I have a set of these on my 66. Look and sound great and fit very well. If you
> need a set this is a good deal. I have no financial interest in  this.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf@mayfco.com
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	ln6sm451632vec.4.2013.04.03.09.58.27 (version=TLSv1 cipher=RC4-SHA
	bits=128/128); Wed, 03 Apr 2013 09:58:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>
To: "Will Seay" <wseay@embarqmail.com>, <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>,
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <17e1e.467f10fd.3e8ce4a3@aol.com>
	<000001ce3083$f31fce40$d95f6ac0$@com>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 13:58:27 -0300
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, Will:

Packing a complete set of pipes and mufflers takes a very large box. 
Shipping is crazy expensive these days. It's all about the price of oil. Not 
much any of us can do about that!

Dave




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Will Seay" <wseay@embarqmail.com>
To: <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2013 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay


> $100 "economy" shipping seems a bit steep to me
>
> Will Seay_____________
> wseay@embarqmail.com
> "I think not therefore I am not" (anon)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of AAAGLASSS@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2013 9:49 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221208987178?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.
> m1438.l2649#ht_152wt_1006
>
> I have a set of these on my 66. Look and sound great and fit very well. If 
> you
> need a set this is a good deal. I have no financial interest in  this.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave@munroe.ca
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  3 11:42:20 2013
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "drmayf@mayfco.com" <drmayf@mayfco.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
Thread-Index: AQHOMBG2vasxjMxK3UqJFFRb1I/sK5jE+5IAgAANSgD//7JhcA==
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 17:12:57 +0000
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	<000001ce3083$f31fce40$d95f6ac0$@com> <515C5C90.8010005@mayfco.com>
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Content-Language: en-US
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
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Exactly. Nevermind when it has to cross the border and you get dinged with
customs brokerage in addition to the cost of shipping.

Less-than-TruckLoad (LTL) freight is built around pallet-sized things, not so
much weight. Unless all those pieces of pipe are each shorter than about five
feet (so they can be put on a pallet diagonally), you may pay for two pallets
or else for a 'finicky to handle' surcharge.

If you ship by UPS, then you also get the 'just because we can' charges. UPS
is generally good inside the US, but border crossings tend to peg their JBWC
meter.

Theo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
> Sent: April 3, 2013 10:45 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
>
> You ever ship a pile of pipe? Takes up a lot of room and hard to handle
> to boot. Plus may be a bit heavy also.
>
> mayf
>
> ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
>
> On 4/3/2013 8:57 AM, Will Seay wrote:
> > $100 "economy" shipping seems a bit steep to me
> >
> > Will Seay_____________
> > wseay@embarqmail.com
> > "I think not therefore I am not" (anon)
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of AAAGLASSS@aol.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2013 9:49 PM
> > To: tigers@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
> >
> >
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221208987178?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p
> 3984.
> > m1438.l2649#ht_152wt_1006
> >
> > I have a set of these on my 66. Look and sound great and fit very
> > well. If you need a set this is a good deal. I have no financial
> interest in  this.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf@mayfco.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: "drmayf@mayfco.com" <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
Thread-Index: AQHOMI2gKBC42vyCWEmINehFvbFwdZjExhMQ
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 17:52:34 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Well of course those pipes will cost more to ship, they're made to Imperial
dimensions...

:>)

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2013 12:45 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay

You ever ship a pile of pipe? Takes up a lot of room and hard to handle to
boot. Plus may be a bit heavy also.

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed

On 4/3/2013 8:57 AM, Will Seay wrote:
> $100 "economy" shipping seems a bit steep to me
>
> Will Seay_____________
> wseay@embarqmail.com
> "I think not therefore I am not" (anon)
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 14:14:13 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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They sold them all.
 
 
In a message dated 4/3/2013 11:11:17 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
mark.rense@ge.com writes:

Well of  course those pipes will cost more to ship, they're made to  
Imperial
dimensions...

:>)

-----Original  Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] 
On
Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
Sent:  Wednesday, April 03, 2013 12:45 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject:  Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay

You ever ship a pile of pipe? Takes up a  lot of room and hard to handle to
boot. Plus may be a bit heavy  also.

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds  Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit  speed

On 4/3/2013 8:57 AM, Will Seay wrote:
> $100 "economy"  shipping seems a bit steep to me
>
> Will  Seay_____________
> wseay@embarqmail.com
> "I think not therefore  I am not"  (anon)
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 11:45:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Greg <tiger-65@sbcglobal.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net, AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

How do they compare to Sunbeam Specialties pipes??

They are about the same price, shipping is cheaper, as they are from the USA.
 

--- On Wed, 4/3/13, AAAGLASSS@aol.com <AAAGLASSS@aol.com> wrote:


From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, April 3, 2013, 11:14 AM


They sold them all.


In a message dated 4/3/2013 11:11:17 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
mark.rense@ge.com writes:

Well of  course those pipes will cost more to ship, they're made to 
Imperial
dimensions...

:>)

-----Original  Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On
Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
Sent:  Wednesday, April 03, 2013 12:45 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject:  Re: [Tigers] Exhaust on E-bay

You ever ship a pile of pipe? Takes up a  lot of room and hard to handle to
boot. Plus may be a bit heavy  also.

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds  Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit  speed

On 4/3/2013 8:57 AM, Will Seay wrote:
> $100 "economy"  shipping seems a bit steep to me
>
> Will  Seay_____________
> wseay@embarqmail.com
> "I think not therefore  I am not"  (anon)
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 05:29:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Motor Mounts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

This is what I have learned from the motor mount discussion and the purchase
of 2 sets.
 
Federal Mogel Precision or Moog mounts are not consistent thickness of rubber
from side to side.   right was 1" thick and  left was 1.25" thick and the
motor did not sit evenly.
 
The supplemental CAT notes indicated the TRW part numbers to be 82220 left and
82221 right are no longer available that I could find.
 
The discussion of using the Anchor mounts , which can be sourced locally from
Advanced, are made in the USA and are part numbers 2220 left and 2221 right. 
Both were 1.25" thick from side to side.  Now the motor sits evenly.
 
It has also been recommended by 2 very knowledgeable list members that 5/16"
bolts, nuts and washers should be installed on 'either" side of the center
bolt on the mount as the rubber does not seem to hold up and will sage within
a short time.
 
Now that I have written this, is there some unwritten rule about listing
manufacture's and part numbers to protect our very few and dedicated sunbeam
suppliers - British Victoria excluded as I do not recall seeing this very
often?
 
I continue to learn 'daily' from your knowledge and appreciate the responses.
 
Regards
Joel Martin
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 06:35:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I am wanting to convert from gernerator to alternator setup for a 289 HiPo
motor in a 66 MK 1A.  Can anyone provide part numbers, brackets to use, wiring
considerations etc in making this conversion?
 
Thanks
 
Joel Martin
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 08:23:00 2013
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 10:00:17 -0400 (EDT)
To: Phastphill@aol.com, JimPSPB@gmail.com, PRScompany@prscompany.com,
	Ocean726@aol.com, sjhcobra1@cs.com, GRMTim@aol.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Tigers] Trip to Pinellas  Park Florida Car Museum
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Tiger Owners,
We have a trip scheduled to the Florida (Pinellas Park) Auto Museum   for 
next Wednesday, April 10th at 11:00. We might decide to get lunch somewhere  
after.
Information and location on the museum can be found on the sites  below.  
This is a chance to see innovative cars in a private collection  that you 
will probably see nowhere else. Admission is $8 and $6 for  seniors.
Any Tiger owners and other car nuts are welcome to join us.
Mark Lafayette
PS Check out the Fardier.....the world's first machine to be  able to move 
under it's own power. 1770?   Who would have thought that  motor vehicles 
started that early).
 
_pinellas  park car museum - Google Search_ 
(https://www.google.com/#hl=en&gs_rn=8&gs_ri=psy-ab&gs_mss=pinellas%20park%20car%20m&tok=lX9eMdukJxi5dR7SDV-
NQw&cp=21&gs_id=2a&xhr=t&q=pinellas+park+car+museum&es_nrs=true&pf=p&output=
search&sclient=psy-ab&oq=pinellas+park+car+mus&gs_l=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.
&bvm=bv.44697112,d.eWU&fp=39e1e4d0175b3f36&biw=1363&bih=547)  
 
_Tampa Bay Automobile Museum, in Tampa,  Florida, features vintage cars and 
vehi_ (http://tbauto.org/)  
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 08:40:40 2013
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, Tiger List Serve
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Thread-Index: AQHOMT05xBPBkvLEC0yVtcZc1gQpWpjGGEwA
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 14:10:13 +0000
References: <1365082541.95229.YahooMailClassic@web124703.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The last issue of Tiger Tracks (the STOA publication) showed a new(?) bracket
by Bill Martin at the Rootes Group Depot. $500 for the bracket, IIRC.

There are a whole bunch of different ways it can be done, depending on your
willingness to scrounge parts and how neatly you want it to tuck away.
The small Denso alternators can fit a lot closer to the block than the
full-size Ford or GM alternators, but I don't think anyone has made a
standardized mount for them.


Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin
> Sent: April 4, 2013 7:36 AM
> To: Tiger List Serve
> Subject: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
>
> I am wanting to convert from gernerator to alternator setup for a 289
> HiPo motor in a 66 MK 1A.  Can anyone provide part numbers, brackets to
> use, wiring considerations etc in making this conversion?
>
> Thanks
>
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 09:59:43 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 11:04:40 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac4xMp6keCP/Yuw3QnOEMp3O+OkVXQAEFdEg
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8626,1.0.431,0.0.0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Motor Mounts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel
	There is no unwritten rule about part numbers.
You do need to realize that the Sunbeam Parts Vendors have spent years and
lots of money finding and maintaining the correct parts for Sunbeam Cars.
We need to support that effort.

	I do believe that we the customers need to record any new parts that
work on our cars.  The Vendors can pick up on that and order quantity of the
parts so we all can benefit.

I'm glad you listed the problems you found with the motor mounts.


	Tiger Tom and Rick spent a good deal of time convincing Robins that
the soft top they were manufacturing for the Sunbeam was cut wrong.   They
had to show Robins an original top so they could correct their pattern.

	I showed Tiger Tom a couple of items which I thought were good
matches for some Tiger parts that he did not have in his catalog.  Tiger Tom
followed up on those leads and soon listed them.   Tiger Tom and Rick worked
closely so when one of them had a new item, they both did.

Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 8:29 AM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Motor Mounts


This is what I have learned from the motor mount discussion and the purchase
of 2 sets.

Federal Mogel Precision or Moog mounts are not consistent thickness of
rubber
from side to side.   right was 1" thick and  left was 1.25" thick and the
motor did not sit evenly.

The supplemental CAT notes indicated the TRW part numbers to be 82220 left
and 82221 right are no longer available that I could find.

The discussion of using the Anchor mounts , which can be sourced locally
from Advanced, are made in the USA and are part numbers 2220 left and 2221
right.
Both were 1.25" thick from side to side.  Now the motor sits evenly.

It has also been recommended by 2 very knowledgeable list members that 5/16"
bolts, nuts and washers should be installed on 'either" side of the center
bolt on the mount as the rubber does not seem to hold up and will sage
within a short time.

Now that I have written this, is there some unwritten rule about listing
manufacture's and part numbers to protect our very few and dedicated sunbeam
suppliers - British Victoria excluded as I do not recall seeing this very
often?

I continue to learn 'daily' from your knowledge and appreciate the
responses.

Regards
Joel Martin
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From: James Lindner <jliny5@cox.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 11:54:30 -0400
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
Cc: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel

If you are interested in an alternator that closely resembles the Ford OE
generator, there was a discussion on this topic on the CAT Forum last week. It
is my understanding that they fit into the existing bracket. Downside...pretty
expensive.

Jim

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 4, 2013, at 9:35 AM, Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I am wanting to convert from gernerator to alternator setup for a 289 HiPo
> motor in a 66 MK 1A.  Can anyone provide part numbers, brackets to use,
wiring
> considerations etc in making this conversion?
>
> Thanks
>
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jliny5@cox.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Trip to Pinellas  Park Florida Car Museum
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great I'll be there



---- Original Message ----
From: CoolVT <CoolVT@aol.com>
To: Phastphill <Phastphill@aol.com>; JimPSPB <JimPSPB@gmail.com>; PRScompany
<PRScompany@prscompany.com>; Ocean726 <Ocean726@aol.com>; sjhcobra1
<sjhcobra1@cs.com>; GRMTim <GRMTim@aol.com>; tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Apr 4, 2013 10:00 am
Subject: Trip to Pinellas  Park Florida Car Museum


Tiger Owners,
We have a trip scheduled to the Florida (Pinellas Park) Auto Museum  for next
Wednesday, April 10th at 11:00. We might decide to get lunch somewhere after.
Information and location on the museum can be found on the sites below.  This
is a chance to see innovative cars in a private collection that you will
probably see nowhere else. Admission is $8 and $6 for seniors.
Any Tiger owners and other car nuts are welcome to join us.
Mark Lafayette
PS Check out the Fardier.....the world's first machine to be able to move
under it's own power. 1770?   Who would have thought that motor vehicles
started that early).

pinellas park car museum - Google Search

Tampa Bay Automobile Museum, in Tampa, Florida, features vintage cars and vehi
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 12:23:58 2013
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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: James Lindner <jliny5@cox.net>, Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Thread-Index: AQHOMVCCqEkb6Ykf10mwvyzleqxal5jGS07w
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 17:56:21 +0000
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	<DB530799-ACE2-4917-8242-03587D301027@cox.net>
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Cc: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

That would be the PowerMaster 82101 or the 82101-2 with indicator light
terminal. These are one-wire types so you bypass all your regulator harness. I
go tired of generator bearings burning out (they somehow don't like 7K shift
points) on my 289 HiPo engine and went this way to look stock. The other
advantage is you don't have to kluge brackets onto your car. They are at
Summit Racing, not cheap at $369 and $389 for the indicator model, but you'll
have twice as much juice at idle as the old generator put out at WFO.
Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of James Lindner
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 11:55 AM
To: Joel Martin
Cc: Tiger List Serve
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion

Joel

If you are interested in an alternator that closely resembles the Ford OE
generator, there was a discussion on this topic on the CAT Forum last week. It
is my understanding that they fit into the existing bracket. Downside...pretty
expensive.

Jim

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 4, 2013, at 9:35 AM, Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I am wanting to convert from gernerator to alternator setup for a 289
> HiPo motor in a 66 MK 1A.  Can anyone provide part numbers, brackets
> to use,
wiring
> considerations etc in making this conversion?
>
> Thanks
>
> Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

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Cc: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>,
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Some questions about fitment... 


Any problems aligning pulley with the ones on the crank and water pump? Regular stock size V belt (thickness and length) work okay? 



Thanks, 


Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Rense (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com> 
To: "James Lindner" <jliny5@cox.net>, "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> 
Cc: "Tiger List Serve" <Tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 12:56:21 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion 

That would be the PowerMaster 82101 or the 82101-2 with indicator light 
terminal. These are one-wire types so you bypass all your regulator harness. I 
go tired of generator bearings burning out (they somehow don't like 7K shift 
points) on my 289 HiPo engine and went this way to look stock. The other 
advantage is you don't have to kluge brackets onto your car. They are at 
Summit Racing, not cheap at $369 and $389 for the indicator model, but you'll 
have twice as much juice at idle as the old generator put out at WFO. 
Bugz 

-----Original Message----- 
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On 
Behalf Of James Lindner 
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 11:55 AM 
To: Joel Martin 
Cc: Tiger List Serve 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion 

Joel 

If you are interested in an alternator that closely resembles the Ford OE 
generator, there was a discussion on this topic on the CAT Forum last week. It 
is my understanding that they fit into the existing bracket. Downside...pretty 
expensive. 

Jim 

Sent from my iPhone 

On Apr 4, 2013, at 9:35 AM, Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> wrote: 

> I am wanting to convert from gernerator to alternator setup for a 289 
> HiPo motor in a 66 MK 1A. Can anyone provide part numbers, brackets 
> to use, 
wiring 
> considerations etc in making this conversion? 
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> Joel Martin 
_______________________________________________ 

tigers@autox.team.net 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett@comcast.net 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 13:23:24 2013
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	<26805228D183EF4E9C6F4499BB55B051472CF3E0@CINMBCNA01.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 12:04:45 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
Cc: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>,
	Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

When doing a one wire installation, keep in mind that the light wire is
critical to the workings of the alternator.  It is actually pretty slick or
tricky how it works.  It goes to the charging light on the dash.  The other
wire to the light goes to keyed 12v, not ground.  When the key is turned
on, 12v goes through the light, to the coils of the alternator.  It charges
the coils and the alternator immediately charges when the engine starts
spinning.  Then, 12v goes out of the alternator to the bulb.  When the bulb
has 12v at each side, it shuts off.

I learned this the hard way after years of driving an incorrectly
wired alternator, and never understood why the engine had to get over a
certain RPM to start charging.


On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 10:56 AM, Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light) <
mark.rense@ge.com> wrote:

> That would be the PowerMaster 82101 or the 82101-2 with indicator light
> terminal. These are one-wire types so you bypass all your regulator
> harness. I
> go tired of generator bearings burning out (they somehow don't like 7K
> shift
> points) on my 289 HiPo engine and went this way to look stock. The other
> advantage is you don't have to kluge brackets onto your car. They are at
> Summit Racing, not cheap at $369 and $389 for the indicator model, but
> you'll
> have twice as much juice at idle as the old generator put out at WFO.
> Bugz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of James Lindner
> Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 11:55 AM
> To: Joel Martin
> Cc: Tiger List Serve
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
>
> Joel
>
> If you are interested in an alternator that closely resembles the Ford OE
> generator, there was a discussion on this topic on the CAT Forum last
> week. It
> is my understanding that they fit into the existing bracket.
> Downside...pretty
> expensive.
>
> Jim
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 4, 2013, at 9:35 AM, Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > I am wanting to convert from gernerator to alternator setup for a 289
> > HiPo motor in a 66 MK 1A.  Can anyone provide part numbers, brackets
> > to use,
> wiring
> > considerations etc in making this conversion?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 12:53:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Ground straps Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

All
 
The battery ground strap, does it run out of the trunk and tie to the frame or
just to the inside back of the trunk even with the battery in height or
elsewhere?
 
The engine group strap runs from where to where?
 
Any 'correct' type of fittings?
 
Rookie here, so please be specific.
 
Thank You
Joel Martin
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 12:55:23 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Woodley Park Car show
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone going to the Woodley Park car show a week from Sunday?  Right now
I'm planning on being there with the Tiger and Alpine.  But that depends if
my 16 year old son will have too much homework - and if he has racing
practice on Saturday (he races karts that accelerate, brake and get more Gs
around corners than any car I own).

Jay
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 14:42:03 2013
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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "genepadgett@comcast.net"
	<genepadgett@comcast.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Thread-Index: AQHOMWWfqEkb6Ykf10mwvyzleqxal5jGd+vQ
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 20:10:26 +0000
References: <1175270050.543740.1365100433627.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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Cc: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The alternator lines up just like the stock generator, the case dimensions are
the same, comes with 3/8" belt-width pulley. I had to put on a larger diameter
pulley as these alternators are rated for 16,000 RPM maximum and if you use
the stock size crank pulley and rev over 6000 RPM you may run it too fast. You
can run tighter belt tension too, as the bearings are much more robust, and
this unit weighs about = what the generator weighs. You're paying a premium
for the convenience and the look, but it only takes a couple generator
failures to recoup the cost.

Call them if you are not sure, their tech guy is an old motorhead.

Bugz

From: Joel Martin [mailto:jmartiniii@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 2:53 PM
To: Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion

Ok Mark

You have me all excited.

Looks like the generator, internal voltgage regulator. Black powder coated -
again looks like stock generator.  Indicator light for dash.

Uses existing brackets? No brackets to make or buy?

Crank and water pulley's line up?

Other than price - what is the downside?

Thanks
Joel Martin


Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
To: "Mark Rense (GE, Appl & Light)"
Date: Thursday, April 4, 2013, 2:33 PM
Some questions about fitment...

Any problems aligning pulley with the ones on the crank and water pump?
Regular stock size V belt (thickness and length) work okay?

Thanks,

Gene
________________________________
From: "Mark Rense (GE, Appl & Light)"
Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 12:56:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion

That would be the PowerMaster 82101 or the 82101-2 with indicator light
terminal. These are one-wire types so you bypass all your regulator harness.
I
go tired of generator bearings burning out (they somehow don't like 7K shift
points) on my 289 HiPo engine and went this way to look stock. The other
advantage is you don't have to kluge brackets onto your car. They are at
Summit Racing, not cheap at $369 and $389 for the indicator model, but you'll
have twice as much juice at idle as the old generator put out at WFO.
Bugz

-----Original Message-----
[mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of James Lindner
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 11:55 AM
To: Joel Martin
Cc: Tiger List Serve
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion

Joel

If you are interested in an alternator that closely resembles the Ford OE
generator, there was a discussion on this topic on the CAT Forum last week.
It
is my understanding that they fit into the existing bracket.
Downside...pretty
expensive.

Jim

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 4, 2013, at 9:35 AM, Joel Martin

> I am wanting to convert from gernerator to alternator setup for a 289
> HiPo motor in a 66 MK 1A.  Can anyone provide part numbers, brackets
> to use,
wiring
> considerations etc in making this conversion?
>
> Thanks
>
> Joel Martin
_______________________________________________


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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Thread-Index: AQHOMVCCqEkb6Ykf10mwvyzleqxal5jGS07wgABjqYD//8cywA==
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 20:18:35 +0000
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	FILETIME=[98F68000:01CE3171]
Cc: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>,
	Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay, You are correct if you order the alternator with the indicator (82101-2
with indicator light), the charging circuit is energized through the light. On
a true 1-wire, there is a voltage bias sensor inside the alternator that
triggers an internal switch to open or close the circuit. On these
Powermasters, the alternator will not "switch on" until the alternator begins
to rotate above a couple hundred RPM and stays on until the engine stops. When
you shut the engine off then that same switch shuts off the circuit so you
don't bleed current and drain the battery. On a 3-wire alternator, the circuit
is triggered by the ignition switch energizing the charging system through the
indicator circuit.

If you don't need a generator light and/or have a voltage gage then get the
1-wire version, simple enough for even us Mechanical Engineers to install!

Bugz

From: Jay Laifman [mailto:jay.laifman@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 3:05 PM
To: Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)
Cc: James Lindner; Joel Martin; Tiger List Serve
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion

When doing a one wire installation, keep in mind that the light wire is
critical to the workings of the alternator.  It is actually pretty slick or
tricky how it works.  It goes to the charging light on the dash.  The other
wire to the light goes to keyed 12v, not ground.  When the key is turned on,
12v goes through the light, to the coils of the alternator.  It charges the
coils and the alternator immediately charges when the engine starts spinning.
Then, 12v goes out of the alternator to the bulb.  When the bulb has 12v at
each side, it shuts off.

I learned this the hard way after years of driving an incorrectly wired
alternator, and never understood why the engine had to get over a certain RPM
to start charging.

On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 10:56 AM, Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)
That would be the PowerMaster 82101 or the 82101-2 with indicator light
terminal. These are one-wire types so you bypass all your regulator harness.
I
go tired of generator bearings burning out (they somehow don't like 7K shift
points) on my 289 HiPo engine and went this way to look stock. The other
advantage is you don't have to kluge brackets onto your car. They are at
Summit Racing, not cheap at $369 and $389 for the indicator model, but you'll
have twice as much juice at idle as the old generator put out at WFO.
Bugz

-----Original Message-----
On
Behalf Of James Lindner
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 11:55 AM
To: Joel Martin
Cc: Tiger List Serve
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion

Joel

If you are interested in an alternator that closely resembles the Ford OE
generator, there was a discussion on this topic on the CAT Forum last week.
It
is my understanding that they fit into the existing bracket.
Downside...pretty
expensive.

Jim

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 4, 2013, at 9:35 AM, Joel Martin

> I am wanting to convert from gernerator to alternator setup for a 289
> HiPo motor in a 66 MK 1A.  Can anyone provide part numbers, brackets
> to use,
wiring
> considerations etc in making this conversion?
>
> Thanks
>
> Joel Martin
_______________________________________________


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 14:58:32 2013
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 13:24:40 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
Cc: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>,
	Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

On my alternator, not a true one wire alternator, but a 2.5 wire
alternator, it would not start charging unless it got over 1,500 or more.
All it needed was a blip on start up.  But it still needed it.

I said 2.5 because there is the light wire and the power wire, but the
power wire is jumped over to the third wire.  So, while the alternator has
three attachments, only 2 wires actually go to it.

It has been a while since I did this.  But I seem to recall that the light
wire goes to the post marked "S".  But no one should rely on that - I'm
happy to confirm though.





On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 1:18 PM, Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light) <
mark.rense@ge.com> wrote:

>  Jay, You are correct if you order the alternator with the indicator
> (82101-2 with indicator light), the charging circuit is energized through
> the light. On a true 1-wire, there is a voltage bias sensor inside the
> alternator that triggers an internal switch to open or close the circuit.
> On these Powermasters, the alternator will not switch on until the
> alternator begins to rotate above a couple hundred RPM and stays on until
> the engine stops. When you shut the engine off then that same switch shuts
> off the circuit so you dont bleed current and drain the battery. On a
> 3-wire alternator, the circuit is triggered by the ignition switch
> energizing the charging system through the indicator circuit. ****
>
> ** **
>
> If you dont need a generator light and/or have a voltage gage then get
> the 1-wire version, simple enough for even us Mechanical Engineers to
> install!****
>
> ** **
>
> Bugz****
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* Jay Laifman [mailto:jay.laifman@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 04, 2013 3:05 PM
> *To:* Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)
> *Cc:* James Lindner; Joel Martin; Tiger List Serve
> *Subject:* Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion****
>
> ** **
>
> When doing a one wire installation, keep in mind that the light wire is
> critical to the workings of the alternator.  It is actually pretty slick or
> tricky how it works.  It goes to the charging light on the dash.  The other
> wire to the light goes to keyed 12v, not ground.  When the key is turned
> on, 12v goes through the light, to the coils of the alternator.  It charges
> the coils and the alternator immediately charges when the engine starts
> spinning.  Then, 12v goes out of the alternator to the bulb.  When the bulb
> has 12v at each side, it shuts off.  ****
>
>  ****
>
> I learned this the hard way after years of driving an incorrectly
> wired alternator, and never understood why the engine had to get over a
> certain RPM to start charging.  ****
>
> ** **
>
> On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 10:56 AM, Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light) <
> mark.rense@ge.com> wrote:****
>
> That would be the PowerMaster 82101 or the 82101-2 with indicator light
> terminal. These are one-wire types so you bypass all your regulator
> harness. I
> go tired of generator bearings burning out (they somehow don't like 7K
> shift
> points) on my 289 HiPo engine and went this way to look stock. The other
> advantage is you don't have to kluge brackets onto your car. They are at
> Summit Racing, not cheap at $369 and $389 for the indicator model, but
> you'll
> have twice as much juice at idle as the old generator put out at WFO.
> Bugz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of James Lindner
> Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 11:55 AM
> To: Joel Martin
> Cc: Tiger List Serve
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Generator to Alternator Conversion
>
> Joel
>
> If you are interested in an alternator that closely resembles the Ford OE
> generator, there was a discussion on this topic on the CAT Forum last
> week. It
> is my understanding that they fit into the existing bracket.
> Downside...pretty
> expensive.
>
> Jim
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 4, 2013, at 9:35 AM, Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > I am wanting to convert from gernerator to alternator setup for a 289
> > HiPo motor in a 66 MK 1A.  Can anyone provide part numbers, brackets
> > to use,
> wiring
> > considerations etc in making this conversion?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
>
> ****
>
> ** **
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 17:11:32 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac4xciST5psRk4KRQeWWmzTA3KHB5wABjL/w
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8626,1.0.431,0.0.0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ground straps Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel
	Battery ground just goes to the back of the trunk or just behind the
battery - 1/4" bolt I think.

There is also an engine ground strap.  Mine is on one of the starter bolts
and runs to bolt hole in the frame.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 3:53 PM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Ground straps Question


All
 
The battery ground strap, does it run out of the trunk and tie to the frame
or just to the inside back of the trunk even with the battery in height or
elsewhere?
 
The engine group strap runs from where to where?
 
Any 'correct' type of fittings?
 
Rookie here, so please be specific.
 
Thank You
Joel Martin
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 15:41:44 2013
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From: "Buck Trippel" <BuckTrippel@Verizon.net>
To: "Jay Laifman" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>,	"Tiger's Den"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <CAAjp1z4G=EWy4VvpRYvZS0pjDpfttYzW5jMtFSAuMx6LBnQWow@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 14:15:08 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Woodley Park Car show
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Jay, it's also a CAT membership meeting so I'd guess we'll see over twenty 
Sunbeams there.

There are details and a link for registering on the CAT Forum
http://www.catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?p=12922#post12922

Buck Trippel



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jay Laifman" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 12:55 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Woodley Park Car show


> Anyone going to the Woodley Park car show a week from Sunday?  Right now
> I'm planning on being there with the Tiger and Alpine.  But that depends 
> if
> my 16 year old son will have too much homework - and if he has racing
> practice on Saturday (he races karts that accelerate, brake and get more 
> Gs
> around corners than any car I own).
>
> Jay
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bucktrippel@verizon.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 15:58:20 2013
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From: "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 17:29:48 -0400
Thread-Topic: Car Jump Fun video
Thread-Index: Ac4xMphyPjaBDjapRfWhMUBAVV6WYgASKetw
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Subject: [Tigers] Car Jump Fun video
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My son posted a video on YouTube called "Jumping the Tiger (Car Jump)".  Go to
it in YouTube or go to the link below.  Is it real or an April Fool's joke???
When you can take a look, it is kind of fun.  It is on YouTube: "Jumping the
Tiger (Car Jump)"  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnmJ1U24Y5o

Enjoy!

Jere
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 16:27:13 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Back in the day, the DZ302 Camaro Z/28 had a chambered exhaust system as an 
 option...before my time, but I guess it was delivered in the trunk of the 
car  for dealer installation (first "trunk kit"?).
 
Anyhow, it replaced the mufflers, while providing some muffling of noise,  
and resulted in a nice weight loss and better flow.
 
Question: has anyone looked into some type of chambered exhaust system for  
the Tiger? With our space constraints, it seems like it might be an 
interesting  idea. Less weight wouldn't bother me, either ;-)
 
Mike Wood
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References: <5160497a.3785.0@thecia.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 08:28:08 +1000
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: rande@thecia.net
Cc: Alpines@autox.team.net, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers/Alpines Rev lamps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Actually. they are more rare on ebay USA.. if you can bare biding across
the pond they appear on ebay UK with extreme regularity and quite cheap..
NOS/good used and junk lots.

search WIPAC + Reverse or ESCORT + reverse.. just make sure you get the
rear mounting ones, not flush mount or top mount.

On 7 April 2013 02:12, rande <rande@thecia.net> wrote:

> For those who don't regularly check eBay Sunbeam, there is currently a pair
> of Wipac reverse lights, with wiring to the
> rear light harness area, so far bidded to $76.00(reserve not met)
> and buy it now price of $350.00. You'd still need to locate wiring from the
> rear harness area to the transmission switch.
> No, I have no dog in this race, but these are sufficiently rare on eBay
> that
> they deserve mention.
>
> RB
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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>
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "MWood24020@aol.com" <MWood24020@aol.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
Thread-Index: AQHOMwfFmJCtyPld4keV96VRbDGcWZjKALlw
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
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I have a pair of the original LAT-73 (?) Mitchell mufflers sitting in my
garage. I can measure them for length - they just fit between the front
exhaust hangers and the rear axle. I currently have some 3-chamber 50 series
Flowmasters in there (2" center in, center out) that take up pretty much all
of the available width, and they also come within a couple of inches of the
available length.

Way back when, we did some dyno tests on various mufflers for racing purposes
(while trying to get under the sound restrictions at some local tracks). We
tried turbo mufflers, glasspack (Thrush type), the blue bottle resonator type,
as well as the Supertrapp end-of-the-pipe baffle style. The blue bottle won
out, and it actually had a more mellow sound than the Supertrapp and the
Thrush mufflers. This was before Flowmasters really hit the market; I forget
if we actually did try those on the dyno at some point but from a seat of the
pants perspective they did okay on power as well as being good for noise
suppression. The fact that they were totally bombproof was a plus.

I like the Flowmaster sound but I may put an H-pipe or X-pipe in there to try
to cut a little more of the bark out. I'm also open to suggestions for a good
modern turbo muffler that has decent sound without drone problems.
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MWood24020@aol.com
> Sent: April 6, 2013 2:27 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
>
> Back in the day, the DZ302 Camaro Z/28 had a chambered exhaust system
> as an  option...before my time, but I guess it was delivered in the
> trunk of the car  for dealer installation (first "trunk kit"?).
>
> Anyhow, it replaced the mufflers, while providing some muffling of
> noise, and resulted in a nice weight loss and better flow.
>
> Question: has anyone looked into some type of chambered exhaust system
> for the Tiger? With our space constraints, it seems like it might be an
> interesting  idea. Less weight wouldn't bother me, either ;-)
>
> Mike Wood
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 07:38:14 2013
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From: Rollright@aol.com
Full-name: Rollright
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 09:31:03 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1365341464;
	bh=WlP7DS0vsAOsjUm0uYtOAa7VJ0oRwUNFRskswYvZzwE=;
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Subject: [Tigers] truck clips for jack and handle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,
 
I looked pretty carefully in the parts book (Alpine, complete) for the  area
 that covered the clips that hold the jack and handle.
 
Couldn't figure out which section covered them.
 
I'm trying to restore my trunk area.
 
Anybody please?
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
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From: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <9ae78.542db238.3e92cf17@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 12:23:02 -0300
Subject: Re: [Tigers] truck clips for jack and handle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello everyone:

I have an Alpine owner friend who is restoring his hardtop, which came to 
him in very poor shape with his car.

The hard top shell has been repaired and painted, but is missing the metal 
channels that hold the rubber strips around the perimeter. Does anyone know 
if these strips are available as new parts, or are they only available on 
the used parts market?

Thanks for your help,

Dave 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 09:34:18 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Dave Munroe'" <dave@munroe.ca>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 11:32:48 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac4zo/cuqw9wjso7TEOWS2/esj3y+AAAI7Ag
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8626,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-04-07_04:2013-04-05,2013-04-07,1970-01-01
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Subject: [Tigers] hardtop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave
	Alpine I & II have 1 style of hardtop; Alpine III - V & Tiger has
the other style hardtop.
It does help to be specific when asking about parts.

Generally all the metal trim pieces for either hardtop are found used only.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Munroe
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 11:23 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] truck clips for jack and handle


Hello everyone:

I have an Alpine owner friend who is restoring his hardtop, which came to
him in very poor shape with his car.

The hard top shell has been repaired and painted, but is missing the metal
channels that hold the rubber strips around the perimeter. Does anyone know
if these strips are available as new parts, or are they only available on
the used parts market?

Thanks for your help,

Dave
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 10:29:48 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 12:28:38 -0400 (EDT)
To: Theo.Smit@dynastream.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1365352119;
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks, Theo. I was looking around the 'net yesterday and saw this:
http://www.classicchambered.com/
Concern is that there would really be minimal muffling. Upside would be  
installation, particularly in terms of avoiding the "mufflers hanging low"  
issue/look we have with our cars.
 
I also had another friend tell me he installed the new tech, small diameter 
 glasspacks on his Tiger with very good results.
 
I'm not a big fan of Flowmaster mufflers. I've yet to have an install where 
 there wasn't some droning, regardless as to whether running an H or X 
pipe.  They do sound good under throttle and are made very well, though!
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 4/6/2013 7:08:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
Theo.Smit@dynastream.com writes:

I have a  pair of the original LAT-73 (?) Mitchell mufflers sitting in my 
garage. I can  measure them for length - they just fit between the front 
exhaust hangers and  the rear axle. I currently have some 3-chamber 50 series 
Flowmasters in there  (2" center in, center out) that take up pretty much all 
of the available  width, and they also come within a couple of inches of the 
available  length.

Way back when, we did some dyno tests on various mufflers for  racing 
purposes (while trying to get under the sound restrictions at some  local 
tracks). We tried turbo mufflers, glasspack (Thrush type), the blue  bottle 
resonator type, as well as the Supertrapp end-of-the-pipe baffle style.  The blue 
bottle won out, and it actually had a more mellow sound than the  Supertrapp 
and the Thrush mufflers. This was before Flowmasters really hit the  market; 
I forget if we actually did try those on the dyno at some point but  from a 
seat of the pants perspective they did okay on power as well as being  good 
for noise suppression. The fact that they were totally bombproof was a  
plus.

I like the Flowmaster sound but I may put an H-pipe or X-pipe in  there to 
try to cut a little more of the bark out. I'm also open to  suggestions for 
a good modern turbo muffler that has decent sound without  drone problems.
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From:  tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net]  On Behalf Of MWood24020@aol.com
> Sent: April 6, 2013 2:27 PM
>  To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust  systems?
>
> Back in the day, the DZ302 Camaro Z/28 had a  chambered exhaust system
> as an  option...before my time, but I  guess it was delivered in the
> trunk of the car  for dealer  installation (first "trunk kit"?).
>
> Anyhow, it replaced the  mufflers, while providing some muffling of
> noise, and resulted in a  nice weight loss and better flow.
>
> Question: has anyone looked  into some type of chambered exhaust system
> for the Tiger? With our  space constraints, it seems like it might be an
> interesting   idea. Less weight wouldn't bother me, either ;-)
>
> Mike  Wood
> _______________________________________________
>
>  tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe:
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 13:37:53 2013
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 13:35:47 -0600
From: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>
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To: MWood24020@aol.com
References: <9e9ea.6bc579c3.3e92f8b6@aol.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike,
Here's a picture of what I think are the Mitchell mufflers - these are 
what was on my Tiger when I got it.

For the rest of you that won't get the picture:

The body is 24" long, 3x5" oval, 2" in and out. Contrary to what I 
remembered, the hangers attach 5" rearward from the front of the muffler 
body - there is only about 20 inches between where the hangers attach on 
the chassis and the rear axle tube.

I do recall the front of these mufflers pretty much touching the 
rearward part of the underbody X frame, just behind the little exhaust 
pipe notch in the X. The sound of these mufflers was pretty aggressive, 
but it went well with the rest of the system and engine.

I would also be concerned with the amount of sound suppression that's 
possible in a small diameter muffler such as the chambered ones in the 
link below. It may be that with proper choice of all the internal 
volumes, they get noise cancellation at most of the frequencies of 
interest, but it seems to me that the overall result would still be 
pretty dependent on the rest of the package, i.e. engine displacement, 
cam, and the diameter of the rest of the exhaust.

Theo


On 4/7/2013 10:28 AM, MWood24020@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks, Theo. I was looking around the 'net yesterday and saw this:
> http://www.classicchambered.com/
> Concern is that there would really be minimal muffling. Upside would be
> installation, particularly in terms of avoiding the "mufflers hanging low"
> issue/look we have with our cars.
>   
> I also had another friend tell me he installed the new tech, small diameter
>   glasspacks on his Tiger with very good results.
>   
> I'm not a big fan of Flowmaster mufflers. I've yet to have an install where
>   there wasn't some droning, regardless as to whether running an H or X
> pipe.  They do sound good under throttle and are made very well, though!

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1333.JPG]
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I can tell you that in using cheap old glass paks with a stock engine and  
the same mufflers with a hopped up 302....they are much, much louder with 
the  302.  I shouldn't think a stock engine would be that difficult to  muffle.
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 4/7/2013 3:37:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tsmit@shaw.ca writes:

Mike,
Here's a picture of what I think are the Mitchell mufflers  - these are 
what was on my Tiger when I got it.

For the rest of you  that won't get the picture:

The body is 24" long, 3x5" oval, 2" in and  out. Contrary to what I 
remembered, the hangers attach 5" rearward from  the front of the muffler 
body - there is only about 20 inches between  where the hangers attach on 
the chassis and the rear axle tube.

I  do recall the front of these mufflers pretty much touching the 
rearward  part of the underbody X frame, just behind the little exhaust 
pipe notch  in the X. The sound of these mufflers was pretty aggressive, 
but it went  well with the rest of the system and engine.

I would also be concerned  with the amount of sound suppression that's 
possible in a small diameter  muffler such as the chambered ones in the 
link below. It may be that with  proper choice of all the internal 
volumes, they get noise cancellation at  most of the frequencies of 
interest, but it seems to me that the overall  result would still be 
pretty dependent on the rest of the package, i.e.  engine displacement, 
cam, and the diameter of the rest of the  exhaust.

Theo


On 4/7/2013 10:28 AM, MWood24020@aol.com  wrote:
> Thanks, Theo. I was looking around the 'net yesterday and saw  this:
> http://www.classicchambered.com/
> Concern is that there  would really be minimal muffling. Upside would be
> installation,  particularly in terms of avoiding the "mufflers hanging 
low"
>  issue/look we have with our cars.
>   
> I also had  another friend tell me he installed the new tech, small  
diameter
>   glasspacks on his Tiger with very good  results.
>   
> I'm not a big fan of Flowmaster  mufflers. I've yet to have an install 
where
>   there wasn't  some droning, regardless as to whether running an H or X
> pipe.   They do sound good under throttle and are made very well,  though!

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which  had a name of 
 IMG_1333.JPG]
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 14:26:08 2013
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 14:25:11 -0600
From: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: CoolVT@aol.com
References: <a14a1.3dadcc56.3e9329c8@aol.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

True enough, but the LAT73/LAT74 headers and exhaust, that these 
mufflers were part of, were not really intended for stock engines.

My Tiger came to me with a five-bolt 289 with ported and polished heads, 
a Holley 600 and F4B manifold, and a pretty lopey cam. 'Quiet' was not 
really in its repertoire, although sticking with a 2 inch exhaust system 
does help keep the overall noise level down compared with 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 
inch pipe, at the expense of some performance at the high end.

Theo

On 4/7/2013 1:58 PM, CoolVT@aol.com wrote:
> I can tell you that in using cheap old glass paks with a stock engine 
> and the same mufflers with a hopped up 302....they are much, much 
> louder with the 302.  I shouldn't think a stock engine would be that 
> difficult to muffle.
> Mark L
> In a message dated 4/7/2013 3:37:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> tsmit@shaw.ca writes:
>
>     Mike,
>     Here's a picture of what I think are the Mitchell mufflers - these
>     are
>     what was on my Tiger when I got it.
>
>     For the rest of you that won't get the picture:
>
>     The body is 24" long, 3x5" oval, 2" in and out. Contrary to what I
>     remembered, the hangers attach 5" rearward from the front of the
>     muffler
>     body - there is only about 20 inches between where the hangers
>     attach on
>     the chassis and the rear axle tube.
>
>     I do recall the front of these mufflers pretty much touching the
>     rearward part of the underbody X frame, just behind the little
>     exhaust
>     pipe notch in the X. The sound of these mufflers was pretty
>     aggressive,
>     but it went well with the rest of the system and engine.
>
>     I would also be concerned with the amount of sound suppression that's
>     possible in a small diameter muffler such as the chambered ones in
>     the
>     link below. It may be that with proper choice of all the internal
>     volumes, they get noise cancellation at most of the frequencies of
>     interest, but it seems to me that the overall result would still be
>     pretty dependent on the rest of the package, i.e. engine
>     displacement,
>     cam, and the diameter of the rest of the exhaust.
>
>     Theo
>
>
>     On 4/7/2013 10:28 AM, MWood24020@aol.com wrote:
>     > Thanks, Theo. I was looking around the 'net yesterday and saw this:
>     > http://www.classicchambered.com/
>     > Concern is that there would really be minimal muffling. Upside
>     would be
>     > installation, particularly in terms of avoiding the "mufflers
>     hanging low"
>     > issue/look we have with our cars.
>     >
>     > I also had another friend tell me he installed the new tech,
>     small diameter
>     >   glasspacks on his Tiger with very good results.
>     >
>     > I'm not a big fan of Flowmaster mufflers. I've yet to have an
>     install where
>     >   there wasn't some droning, regardless as to whether running an
>     H or X
>     > pipe.  They do sound good under throttle and are made very well,
>     though!
>
>     [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a
>     name of IMG_1333.JPG]
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     tigers@autox.team.net
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>     Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>     Unsubscribe:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 14:31:23 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 16:27:17 -0400 (EDT)
To: CoolVT@aol.com, tsmit@shaw.ca
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
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My motor is a fairly mild roller cammed 302 w/headers. The new tech  
glasspacks are supposedly much better than the old style, in terms of noise, I  
guess, but I'm really curious about the chambered design.
 
I'm going to do some research and see if I can get any real data.  

 
In a message dated 4/7/2013 12:58:01 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
CoolVT@aol.com writes:

I can tell you that in using cheap old glass paks with a stock engine and  
the same mufflers with a hopped up 302....they are much, much louder with 
the  302.  I shouldn't think a stock engine would be that difficult to  muffle.
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 4/7/2013 3:37:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tsmit@shaw.ca writes:

Mike,
Here's a picture of what I think are the Mitchell  mufflers - these are 
what was on my Tiger when I got it.

For the  rest of you that won't get the picture:

The body is 24" long, 3x5"  oval, 2" in and out. Contrary to what I 
remembered, the hangers attach  5" rearward from the front of the muffler 
body - there is only about 20  inches between where the hangers attach on 
the chassis and the rear axle  tube.

I do recall the front of these mufflers pretty much touching  the 
rearward part of the underbody X frame, just behind the little  exhaust 
pipe notch in the X. The sound of these mufflers was pretty  aggressive, 
but it went well with the rest of the system and  engine.

I would also be concerned with the amount of sound  suppression that's 
possible in a small diameter muffler such as the  chambered ones in the 
link below. It may be that with proper choice of  all the internal 
volumes, they get noise cancellation at most of the  frequencies of 
interest, but it seems to me that the overall result  would still be 
pretty dependent on the rest of the package, i.e. engine  displacement, 
cam, and the diameter of the rest of the  exhaust.

Theo


On 4/7/2013 10:28 AM, MWood24020@aol.com  wrote:
> Thanks, Theo. I was looking around the 'net yesterday and saw  this:
> http://www.classicchambered.com/
> Concern is that there  would really be minimal muffling. Upside would be
> installation,  particularly in terms of avoiding the "mufflers hanging 
low"
>  issue/look we have with our cars.
>   
> I also had  another friend tell me he installed the new tech, small  
diameter
>   glasspacks on his Tiger with very good  results.
>   
> I'm not a big fan of Flowmaster  mufflers. I've yet to have an install 
where
>   there wasn't  some droning, regardless as to whether running an H or X
> pipe.   They do sound good under throttle and are made very well,  though!

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which  had a name of 
 IMG_1333.JPG]
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 14:31:58 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 16:28:21 -0400 (EDT)
To: tsmit@shaw.ca, CoolVT@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Of course, we also need to differentiate "good noise" from "bad noise"...  
;-)
 
 
In a message dated 4/7/2013 1:25:14 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tsmit@shaw.ca writes:

True enough, but the LAT73/LAT74 headers and  exhaust, that these mufflers 
were part of, were not really intended for stock  engines.

My Tiger came to me with a five-bolt 289 with ported and  polished heads, a 
Holley 600 and F4B manifold, and a pretty lopey cam. 'Quiet'  was not 
really in its repertoire, although sticking with a 2 inch exhaust  system does 
help keep the overall noise level down compared with 2 1/4 or 2  1/2 inch 
pipe, at the expense of some performance at the high end.  

Theo

On 4/7/2013 1:58 PM, _CoolVT@aol.com_ (mailto:CoolVT@aol.com)   wrote:


I can tell you that in using cheap old glass paks with a stock engine  and 
the same mufflers with a hopped up 302....they are much, much louder  with 
the 302.  I shouldn't think a stock engine would be that  difficult to muffle.
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 4/7/2013 3:37:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
_tsmit@shaw.ca_ (mailto:tsmit@shaw.ca)  writes:

Mike,
Here's a picture of what I think are the Mitchell  mufflers - these are 
what was on my Tiger when I got it.

For  the rest of you that won't get the picture:

The body is 24" long,  3x5" oval, 2" in and out. Contrary to what I 
remembered, the hangers  attach 5" rearward from the front of the muffler 
body - there is only  about 20 inches between where the hangers attach on 
the chassis and  the rear axle tube.

I do recall the front of these mufflers pretty  much touching the 
rearward part of the underbody X frame, just behind  the little exhaust 
pipe notch in the X. The sound of these mufflers  was pretty aggressive, 
but it went well with the rest of the system  and engine.

I would also be concerned with the amount of sound  suppression that's 
possible in a small diameter muffler such as the  chambered ones in the 
link below. It may be that with proper choice of  all the internal 
volumes, they get noise cancellation at most of the  frequencies of 
interest, but it seems to me that the overall result  would still be 
pretty dependent on the rest of the package, i.e.  engine displacement, 
cam, and the diameter of the rest of the  exhaust.

Theo


On 4/7/2013 10:28 AM, _MWood24020@aol.com_ (mailto:MWood24020@aol.com)  
wrote:
>  Thanks, Theo. I was looking around the 'net yesterday and saw  this:
> http://www.classicchambered.com/
>  Concern is that there would really be minimal muffling. Upside would  be
> installation, particularly in terms of avoiding the "mufflers  hanging 
low"
> issue/look we have with our cars.
>    
> I also had another friend tell me he installed the new tech,  small 
diameter
>   glasspacks on his Tiger with very good  results.
>   
> I'm not a big fan of Flowmaster  mufflers. I've yet to have an install 
where
>   there  wasn't some droning, regardless as to whether running an H or X
>  pipe.  They do sound good under throttle and are made very well,  though!

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg  which had a name of 
 IMG_1333.JPG]
_______________________________________________

_tigers@autox.team.net_ (mailto:tigers@autox.team.net) 

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 15:17:26 2013
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Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 17:12:40 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: MWood24020@aol.com
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

It's obviously very personal, but I think the flowmaster 42 series on my
tiger are the single best feature of the car.   or at least they are a big
component of the single best feature - the sound (the engine helps somewhat
too)!

maybe that says something about the rest of my tiger :)  hmm....


On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 4:28 PM, <MWood24020@aol.com> wrote:

> Of course, we also need to differentiate "good noise" from "bad noise"...
> ;-)
>
>
> In a message dated 4/7/2013 1:25:14 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> tsmit@shaw.ca writes:
>
> True enough, but the LAT73/LAT74 headers and  exhaust, that these mufflers
> were part of, were not really intended for stock  engines.
>
> My Tiger came to me with a five-bolt 289 with ported and  polished heads, a
> Holley 600 and F4B manifold, and a pretty lopey cam. 'Quiet'  was not
> really in its repertoire, although sticking with a 2 inch exhaust  system
> does
> help keep the overall noise level down compared with 2 1/4 or 2  1/2 inch
> pipe, at the expense of some performance at the high end.
>
> Theo
>
> On 4/7/2013 1:58 PM, _CoolVT@aol.com_ (mailto:CoolVT@aol.com)   wrote:
>
>
> I can tell you that in using cheap old glass paks with a stock engine  and
> the same mufflers with a hopped up 302....they are much, much louder  with
> the 302.  I shouldn't think a stock engine would be that  difficult to
> muffle.
> Mark L
>
>
> In a message dated 4/7/2013 3:37:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> _tsmit@shaw.ca_ (mailto:tsmit@shaw.ca)  writes:
>
> Mike,
> Here's a picture of what I think are the Mitchell  mufflers - these are
> what was on my Tiger when I got it.
>
> For  the rest of you that won't get the picture:
>
> The body is 24" long,  3x5" oval, 2" in and out. Contrary to what I
> remembered, the hangers  attach 5" rearward from the front of the muffler
> body - there is only  about 20 inches between where the hangers attach on
> the chassis and  the rear axle tube.
>
> I do recall the front of these mufflers pretty  much touching the
> rearward part of the underbody X frame, just behind  the little exhaust
> pipe notch in the X. The sound of these mufflers  was pretty aggressive,
> but it went well with the rest of the system  and engine.
>
> I would also be concerned with the amount of sound  suppression that's
> possible in a small diameter muffler such as the  chambered ones in the
> link below. It may be that with proper choice of  all the internal
> volumes, they get noise cancellation at most of the  frequencies of
> interest, but it seems to me that the overall result  would still be
> pretty dependent on the rest of the package, i.e.  engine displacement,
> cam, and the diameter of the rest of the  exhaust.
>
> Theo
>
>
> On 4/7/2013 10:28 AM, _MWood24020@aol.com_ (mailto:MWood24020@aol.com)
> wrote:
> >  Thanks, Theo. I was looking around the 'net yesterday and saw  this:
> > http://www.classicchambered.com/
> >  Concern is that there would really be minimal muffling. Upside would  be
> > installation, particularly in terms of avoiding the "mufflers  hanging
> low"
> > issue/look we have with our cars.
> >
> > I also had another friend tell me he installed the new tech,  small
> diameter
> >   glasspacks on his Tiger with very good  results.
> >
> > I'm not a big fan of Flowmaster  mufflers. I've yet to have an install
> where
> >   there  wasn't some droning, regardless as to whether running an H or X
> >  pipe.  They do sound good under throttle and are made very well,
>  though!
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg  which had a name of
>  IMG_1333.JPG]
> _______________________________________________
>
> _tigers@autox.team.net_ (mailto:tigers@autox.team.net)
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 15:35:20 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <8693a.57ed01cf.3e9330e5@aol.com>
	<CANE47iQ1bCxu9Rp4xRckQ5dXHmioNoF=cF6CXLzkDYVi95YUcA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 14:33:20 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I hate the DRONE of Flowmasters.  Even the 50 series (extra chamber) doesn't 
help. Neither does the fact that I have the two exhaust outlets run into one 
3" pipe blending the pulses. 1,900 to 2,600 RPM is unbearable. This is a 318 
in a Valiant, but still a V-8 with Flowmasters. I threw one of those Ricer 
mufflers on the end, but it didn't help. I think the drone emanates from 
muffler itself (vibrations) and not the sound out the tailpipe.

BTW, I didn't see any of you at Woodley Park today - BECAUSE I READ MY 
CALENDAR WRONG! You of course will wisely be there next week, when the event 
actually occurs.  Oh well, it was a nice day in the park. Fun to watch the 
private jets fly by up close and personal.
Tom 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 18:52:47 2013
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Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 20:51:28 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

you're probably right but I can't say I've noticed.  I guess I don't spend
too much time between 1900 and 2600 rpm :)

the one noise I _did_ find incredibly irritating was the sound of a Holley
electric fuel pump - even with 'isolation'.  I switched to a Carter which
is better but still clearly audible.

Sorry - off topic....




On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 5:33 PM, Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net> wrote:

> I hate the DRONE of Flowmasters.  Even the 50 series (extra chamber)
> doesn't help. Neither does the fact that I have the two exhaust outlets run
> into one 3" pipe blending the pulses. 1,900 to 2,600 RPM is unbearable.
> This is a 318 in a Valiant, but still a V-8 with Flowmasters. I threw one
> of those Ricer mufflers on the end, but it didn't help. I think the drone
> emanates from muffler itself (vibrations) and not the sound out the
> tailpipe.
>
> BTW, I didn't see any of you at Woodley Park today - BECAUSE I READ MY
> CALENDAR WRONG! You of course will wisely be there next week, when the
> event actually occurs.  Oh well, it was a nice day in the park. Fun to
> watch the private jets fly by up close and personal.
> Tom ______________________________**_________________
>
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/tigers/owain.lloyd@**
> gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 20:08:34 2013
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
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Good noise a v8...  bad noise another asshole on a harly with open
pipes.....my 650 single dr sounds way better than a harly and a gold star is
even better



---- Original Message ----
From: MWood24020 <MWood24020@aol.com>
To: tsmit <tsmit@shaw.ca>; CoolVT <CoolVT@aol.com>
Cc: tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Apr 7, 2013 4:31 pm
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?


Of course, we also need to differentiate "good noise" from "bad noise"...
;-)


In a message dated 4/7/2013 1:25:14 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
tsmit@shaw.ca writes:

True enough, but the LAT73/LAT74 headers and  exhaust, that these mufflers
were part of, were not really intended for stock  engines.

My Tiger came to me with a five-bolt 289 with ported and  polished heads, a
Holley 600 and F4B manifold, and a pretty lopey cam. 'Quiet'  was not
really in its repertoire, although sticking with a 2 inch exhaust  system does
help keep the overall noise level down compared with 2 1/4 or 2  1/2 inch
pipe, at the expense of some performance at the high end.

Theo

On 4/7/2013 1:58 PM, _CoolVT@aol.com_ (mailto:CoolVT@aol.com)   wrote:


I can tell you that in using cheap old glass paks with a stock engine  and
the same mufflers with a hopped up 302....they are much, much louder  with
the 302.  I shouldn't think a stock engine would be that  difficult to
muffle.
Mark L


In a message dated 4/7/2013 3:37:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
_tsmit@shaw.ca_ (mailto:tsmit@shaw.ca)  writes:

Mike,
Here's a picture of what I think are the Mitchell  mufflers - these are
what was on my Tiger when I got it.

For  the rest of you that won't get the picture:

The body is 24" long,  3x5" oval, 2" in and out. Contrary to what I
remembered, the hangers  attach 5" rearward from the front of the muffler
body - there is only  about 20 inches between where the hangers attach on
the chassis and  the rear axle tube.

I do recall the front of these mufflers pretty  much touching the
rearward part of the underbody X frame, just behind  the little exhaust
pipe notch in the X. The sound of these mufflers  was pretty aggressive,
but it went well with the rest of the system  and engine.

I would also be concerned with the amount of sound  suppression that's
possible in a small diameter muffler such as the  chambered ones in the
link below. It may be that with proper choice of  all the internal
volumes, they get noise cancellation at most of the  frequencies of
interest, but it seems to me that the overall result  would still be
pretty dependent on the rest of the package, i.e.  engine displacement,
cam, and the diameter of the rest of the  exhaust.

Theo


On 4/7/2013 10:28 AM, _MWood24020@aol.com_ (mailto:MWood24020@aol.com)
wrote:
>  Thanks, Theo. I was looking around the 'net yesterday and saw  this:
> http://www.classicchambered.com/
>  Concern is that there would really be minimal muffling. Upside would  be
> installation, particularly in terms of avoiding the "mufflers  hanging
low"
> issue/look we have with our cars.
>
> I also had another friend tell me he installed the new tech,  small
diameter
>   glasspacks on his Tiger with very good  results.
>
> I'm not a big fan of Flowmaster  mufflers. I've yet to have an install
where
>   there  wasn't some droning, regardless as to whether running an H or X
>  pipe.  They do sound good under throttle and are made very well,  though!

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg  which had a name of
 IMG_1333.JPG]
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 20:31:07 2013
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Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 22:29:58 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: "phastphill@aol.com" <phastphill@aol.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh god I know!  They sound even worse than pointless 'emergency' sirens.
 Definitely one of my top 'angry hates' :) what do people see (or should I
say hear) in that awful racket?

I think all loud noises should be judged by the benchmark of 'would you
rather your toddler kept sleeping or should they be woken up to experience
said sound?'  If its not worth being interrupted from an interesting
conversation from (and a small block ford usually is), I don't want to hear
it!

- angry Owain in noisy manhattan.


On Sunday, April 7, 2013, wrote:

> Good noise a v8...  bad noise another asshole on a harly with open
> pipes.....my 650 single dr sounds way better than a harly and a gold star
> is
> even better
>
>
>
> ---- Original Message ----
> From: MWood24020 <MWood24020@aol.com>
> To: tsmit <tsmit@shaw.ca>; CoolVT <CoolVT@aol.com>
> Cc: tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Apr 7, 2013 4:31 pm
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
>
>
> Of course, we also need to differentiate "good noise" from "bad noise"...
> ;-)
>
>
> In a message dated 4/7/2013 1:25:14 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> tsmit@shaw.ca writes:
>
> True enough, but the LAT73/LAT74 headers and  exhaust, that these mufflers
> were part of, were not really intended for stock  engines.
>
> My Tiger came to me with a five-bolt 289 with ported and  polished heads, a
> Holley 600 and F4B manifold, and a pretty lopey cam. 'Quiet'  was not
> really in its repertoire, although sticking with a 2 inch exhaust  system
> does
> help keep the overall noise level down compared with 2 1/4 or 2  1/2 inch
> pipe, at the expense of some performance at the high end.
>
> Theo
>
> On 4/7/2013 1:58 PM, _CoolVT@aol.com_ (mailto:CoolVT@aol.com)   wrote:
>
>
> I can tell you that in using cheap old glass paks with a stock engine  and
> the same mufflers with a hopped up 302....they are much, much louder  with
> the 302.  I shouldn't think a stock engine would be that  difficult to
> muffle.
> Mark L
>
>
> In a message dated 4/7/2013 3:37:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> _tsmit@shaw.ca_ (mailto:tsmit@shaw.ca)  writes:
>
> Mike,
> Here's a picture of what I think are the Mitchell  mufflers - these are
> what was on my Tiger when I got it.
>
> For  the rest of you that won't get the picture:
>
> The body is 24" long,  3x5" oval, 2" in and out. Contrary to what I
> remembered, the hangers  attach 5" rearward from the front of the muffler
> body - there is only  about 20 inches between where the hangers attach on
> the chassis and  the rear axle tube.
>
> I do recall the front of these mufflers pretty  much touching the
> rearward part of the underbody X frame, just behind  the little exhaust
> pipe notch in the X. The sound of these mufflers  was pretty aggressive,
> but it went well with the rest of the system  and engine.
>
> I would also be concerned with the amount of sound  suppression that's
> possible in a small diameter muffler such as the  chambered ones in the
> link below. It may be that with proper choice of  all the internal
> volumes, they get noise cancellation at most of the  frequencies of
> interest, but it seems to me that the overall result  would still be
> pretty dependent on the rest of the package, i.e.  engine displacement,
> cam, and the diameter of the rest of the  exhaust.
>
> Theo
>
>
> On 4/7/2013 10:28 AM, _MWood24020@aol.com_ (mailto:MWood24020@aol.com)
> wrote:
> >  Thanks, Theo. I was looking around the 'net yesterday and saw  this:
> > http://www.classicchambered.com/
> >  Concern is that there would really be minimal muffling. Upside would  be
> > installation, particularly in terms of avoiding the "mufflers  hanging
> low"
> > issue/look we have with our cars.
> >
> > I also had another friend tell me he installed the new tech,  small
> diameter
> >   glasspacks on his Tiger with very good  results.
> >
> > I'm not a big fan of Flowmaster  mufflers. I've yet to have an install
> where
> >   there  wasn't some droning, regardless as to whether running an H or X
> >  pipe.  They do sound good under throttle and are made very well,
>  though!
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg  which had a name of
>  IMG_1333.JPG]
> _______________________________________________
>
> _tigers@autox.team.net_ (mailto:tigers@autox.team.net)
>
> Donate:   <http://www.team.net/donate.html>Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/phastphill@aol.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe:
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Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 22:33:30 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: "phastphill@aol.com" <phastphill@aol.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Aucra exhausts.... (The ones that sound like farts).   Not many engines
sounds bad to me but Acuras and Harleys are wel

On Sunday, April 7, 2013, Owain Lloyd wrote:

> Oh god I know!  They sound even worse than pointless 'emergency' sirens.
>  Definitely one of my top 'angry hates' :) what do people see (or should I
> say hear) in that awful racket?
>
> I think all loud noises should be judged by the benchmark of 'would you
> rather your toddler kept sleeping or should they be woken up to experience
> said sound?'  If its not worth being interrupted from an interesting
> conversation from (and a small block ford usually is), I don't want to hear
> it!
>
> - angry Owain in noisy manhattan.
>
>
> On Sunday, April 7, 2013, wrote:
>
>> Good noise a v8...  bad noise another asshole on a harly with open
>> pipes.....my 650 single dr sounds way better than a harly and a gold star
>> is
>> even better
>>
>>
>>
>> ---- Original Message ----
>> From: MWood24020 <MWood24020@aol.com>
>> To: tsmit <tsmit@shaw.ca>; CoolVT <CoolVT@aol.com>
>> Cc: tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sun, Apr 7, 2013 4:31 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
>>
>>
>> Of course, we also need to differentiate "good noise" from "bad noise"...
>> ;-)
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 4/7/2013 1:25:14 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> tsmit@shaw.ca writes:
>>
>> True enough, but the LAT73/LAT74 headers and  exhaust, that these mufflers
>> were part of, were not really intended for stock  engines.
>>
>> My Tiger came to me with a five-bolt 289 with ported and  polished heads,
>> a
>> Holley 600 and F4B manifold, and a pretty lopey cam. 'Quiet'  was not
>> really in its repertoire, although sticking with a 2 inch exhaust  system
>> does
>> help keep the overall noise level down compared with 2 1/4 or 2  1/2 inch
>> pipe, at the expense of some performance at the high end.
>>
>> Theo
>>
>> On 4/7/2013 1:58 PM, _CoolVT@aol.com_ (mailto:CoolVT@aol.com)   wrote:
>>
>>
>> I can tell you that in using cheap old glass paks with a stock engine  and
>> the same mufflers with a hopped up 302....they are much, much louder  with
>> the 302.  I shouldn't think a stock engine would be that  difficult to
>> muffle.
>> Mark L
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 4/7/2013 3:37:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>> _tsmit@shaw.ca_ (mailto:tsmit@shaw.ca)  writes:
>>
>> Mike,
>> Here's a picture of what I think are the Mitchell  mufflers - these are
>> what was on my Tiger when I got it.
>>
>> For  the rest of you that won't get the picture:
>>
>> The body is 24" long,  3x5" oval, 2" in and out. Contrary to what I
>> remembered, the hangers  attach 5" rearward from the front of the muffler
>> body - there is only  about 20 inches between where the hangers attach on
>> the chassis and  the rear axle tube.
>>
>> I do recall the front of these mufflers pretty  much touching the
>> rearward part of the underbody X frame, just behind  the little exhaust
>> pipe notch in the X. The sound of these mufflers  was pretty aggressive,
>> but it went well with the rest of the system  and engine.
>>
>> I would also be concerned with the amount of sound  suppression that's
>> possible in a small diameter muffler such as the  chambered ones in the
>> link below. It may be that with proper choice of  all the internal
>> volumes, they get noise cancellation at most of the  frequencies of
>> interest, but it seems to me that the overall result  would still be
>> pretty dependent on the rest of the package, i.e.  engine displacement,
>> cam, and the diameter of the rest of the  exhaust.
>>
>> Theo
>>
>>
>> On 4/7/2013 10:28 AM, _MWood24020@aol.com_ (mailto:MWood24020@aol.com)
>> wrote:
>> >  Thanks, Theo. I was looking around the 'net yesterday and saw  this:
>> > http://www.classicchambered.com/
>> >  Concern is that there would really be minimal muffling. Upside would
>>  be
>> > installation, particularly in terms of avoiding the "mufflers  hanging
>> low"
>> > issue/look we have with our cars.
>> >
>> > I also had another friend tell me he installed the new tech,  small
>> diameter
>> >   glasspacks on his Tiger with very good  results.
>> >
>> > I'm not a big fan of Flowmaster  mufflers. I've yet to have an install
>> where
>> >   there  wasn't some droning, regardless as to whether running an H or X
>> >  pipe.  They do sound good under throttle and are made very well,
>>  though!
>>
>> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg  which had a name
>> of
>>  IMG_1333.JPG]
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> _tigers@autox.team.net_ (mailto:tigers@autox.team.net)
>>
>> Donate:   <http://www.team.net/donate.html>Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/phastphill@aol.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 20:38:44 2013
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Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 22:34:38 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: "phastphill@aol.com" <phastphill@aol.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

l up there.  I'm sure I'm offending people now so I'm going to shut up and
apologise!

On Sunday, April 7, 2013, Owain Lloyd wrote:

> Aucra exhausts.... (The ones that sound like farts).   Not many engines
> sounds bad to me but Acuras and Harleys are wel
>
> On Sunday, April 7, 2013, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
> Oh god I know!  They sound even worse than pointless 'emergency' sirens.
>  Definitely one of my top 'angry hates' :) what do people see (or should I
> say hear) in that awful racket?
>
> I think all loud noises should be judged by the benchmark of 'would you
> rather your toddler kept sleeping or should they be woken up to experience
> said sound?'  If its not worth being interrupted from an interesting
> conversation from (and a small block ford usually is), I don't want to hear
> it!
>
> - angry Owain in noisy manhattan.
>
>
> On Sunday, April 7, 2013, wrote:
>
> Good noise a v8...  bad noise another asshole on a harly with open
> pipes.....my 650 single dr sounds way better than a harly and a gold star
> is
> even better
>
>
>
> ---- Original Message ----
> From: MWood24020 <MWood24020@aol.com>
> To: tsmit <tsmit@shaw.ca>; CoolVT <CoolVT@aol.com>
> Cc: tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Apr 7, 2013 4:31 pm
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
>
>
> Of course, we also need to differentiate "good noise" from "bad noise"...
> ;-)
>
>
> In a message dated 4/7/2013 1:25:14 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> tsmit@shaw.ca writes:
>
> True enough, but the LAT73/LAT74 headers and  exhaust, that these mufflers
> were part of, were not really intended for stock  engines.
>
> My Tiger came to me with a five-bolt 289 with ported and  polished heads, a
> Holley 600 and F4B manifold, and a pretty lopey cam. 'Quiet'  was not
> really in its repertoire, although sticking with a 2 inch exhaust  system
> does
> help keep the overall noise level down compared with 2 1/4 or 2  1/2 inch
> pipe, at the expense of some performance at the high end.
>
> Theo
>
> On 4/7/2013 1:58 PM, _CoolVT@aol.com_ (mailto:CoolVT@aol.com)   wrote:
>
>
> I can tell you that in using cheap old glass paks with a stock engine  and
> the same mufflers with a hopped up 302....they are much, much louder  with
> the 302.  I shouldn't think a stock engine would be that  difficult to
> muffle.
> Mark L
>
>
> In a message dated 4/7/2013 3:37:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> _tsmit@shaw.ca_ (mailto:tsmit@shaw.ca)  writes:
>
> Mike,
> Here's a picture of what I think are the Mitchell  mufflers - these are
> what was on my Tiger when I got it.
>
> For  the rest of you that won't get the picture:
>
> The body is 24" long,  3x5" oval, 2" in and out. Contrary to what I
> remembered, the hangers  attach 5" rearward from the front of the muffler
> body - there is only  about 20 inches between where the hangers attach on
> the chassis and  the rear axle tube.
>
> I do recall the front of these mufflers pretty  much touching the
> rearward part of the underbody X frame, just behind  the little exhaust
> pipe notch in the X. The sound of these mufflers  was pretty aggressive,
> but it went well with the rest of the system  and engine.
>
> I would also be concerned with the amount of sound  suppression that's
> possible in a small diameter muffler such as the  chambered ones in the
> link below. It may be that with proper choice of  all the internal
> volumes, they get noise cancellation at most of the  frequencies of
> interest, but it seems to me that the overall result  would still be
> pretty dependent on the rest of the package, i.e.  engine displacement,
> cam, and the diameter of the rest of the  exhaust.
>
> Theo
>
>
> On 4/7/2013 10:28 AM, _MWood24020@aol.com_ (mailto:MWood24020@aol.com)
> wrote:
> >  Thanks, Theo. I was looking around the 'net yesterday and saw  this:
> > http://www.classicchambered.com/
> >  Concern is that there would really be minimal muffling. Upside would  be
> > installation, particularly in terms of avoiding the "mufflers  hanging
> low"
> > issue/look we have with our cars.
> >
> > I also had another friend tell me he installed the new tech,  small
> diameter
> >   glasspacks on his Tiger with very good  results.
> >
> > I'm not a big fan of Flowmaster  mufflers. I've yet to have an install
> where
> >   there  wasn't some droning, regardless as to whether running an H or X
> >  pipe.  They do sound good under throttle and are made very well,
>  though!
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg  which had a name of
>  IMG_1333.JPG]
> _______________________________________________
>
> _ti
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 20:42:26 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 22:41:28 -0400 (EDT)
To: owain.lloyd@gmail.com, phastphill@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
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Harley guys/gals love that unmuffled "potato potato"....me? notsomuch. To  
make it worse, on most all Harleys the throttle is more of a volume control  
than a discernible source of increased forward speed. If you're going to 
make  that much noise, at least be fast.
 
Any Honda/Acura or Miata four cylinder unmuffled is ear pain. 
 
Mazda rotaries require mufflers to sound less than annoying. Interesting  
engines, though.
 
Inline sixes, V8's and V12's all tend to sound right, no matter how muffled 
 or unmuffled they may be ;-)
 
 
In a message dated 4/7/2013 7:34:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
owain.lloyd@gmail.com writes:

l up  there.  I'm sure I'm offending people now so I'm going to shut up and 
 apologise! 

On Sunday, April 7, 2013, Owain Lloyd  wrote:

Aucra  exhausts.... (The ones that sound like farts).   Not many engines  
sounds bad to me but Acuras and Harleys are wel

On  Sunday, April 7, 2013, Owain Lloyd wrote:

Oh  god I know!  They sound even worse than pointless 'emergency' sirens.  
Definitely one of my top 'angry hates' :) what do people see (or  should I 
say hear) in that awful racket?  


I think all loud noises should be judged by the benchmark of 'would  you 
rather your toddler kept sleeping or should they be woken up to  experience 
said sound?'  If its not worth being interrupted from an  interesting 
conversation from (and a small block ford usually is), I don't  want to hear it!


- angry Owain in noisy manhattan.


On Sunday, April 7, 2013, wrote:

Good  noise a v8...  bad noise another asshole on a harly with  open
pipes.....my 650 single dr sounds way better than a harly and a  gold star 
is
even better



---- Original Message  ----
From: MWood24020 <MWood24020@aol.com>
To: tsmit  <tsmit@shaw.ca>; CoolVT  <CoolVT@aol.com>
Cc: tigers  <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Apr 7, 2013 4:31  pm
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?


Of  course, we also need to differentiate "good noise" from "bad  noise"...
;-)


In a message dated 4/7/2013 1:25:14 P.M.  Pacific Daylight Time,
tsmit@shaw.ca writes:

True  enough, but the LAT73/LAT74 headers and  exhaust, that these  mufflers
were part of, were not really intended for stock  engines.

My Tiger came to me with a five-bolt 289 with  ported and  polished heads, a
Holley 600 and F4B manifold, and a  pretty lopey cam. 'Quiet'  was not
really in its repertoire,  although sticking with a 2 inch exhaust  system 
does
help keep  the overall noise level down compared with 2 1/4 or 2  1/2  inch
pipe, at the expense of some performance at the high  end.

Theo

On 4/7/2013 1:58 PM, _CoolVT@aol.com_  (mailto:CoolVT@aol.com)   wrote:


I can tell you  that in using cheap old glass paks with a stock engine  and
the  same mufflers with a hopped up 302....they are much, much louder  with
the 302.  I shouldn't think a stock engine would be  that  difficult to
muffle.
Mark L


In a message  dated 4/7/2013 3:37:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
_tsmit@shaw.ca_  (mailto:tsmit@shaw.ca)  writes:

Mike,
Here's a  picture of what I think are the Mitchell  mufflers - these  are
what was on my Tiger when I got it.

For  the rest of  you that won't get the picture:

The body is 24" long,  3x5"  oval, 2" in and out. Contrary to what I
remembered, the hangers  attach 5" rearward from the front of the muffler
body - there  is only  about 20 inches between where the hangers attach on
the  chassis and  the rear axle tube.

I do recall the front of  these mufflers pretty  much touching the
rearward part of the  underbody X frame, just behind  the little exhaust
pipe notch in  the X. The sound of these mufflers  was pretty aggressive,
but  it went well with the rest of the system  and engine.

I  would also be concerned with the amount of sound  suppression  that's
possible in a small diameter muffler such as the  chambered ones in the
link below. It may be that with proper  choice of  all the internal
volumes, they get noise cancellation  at most of the  frequencies of
interest, but it seems to me that  the overall result  would still be
pretty dependent on the rest  of the package, i.e.  engine displacement,
cam, and the diameter  of the rest of the  exhaust.

Theo


On 4/7/2013  10:28 AM, _MWood24020@aol.com_  (mailto:MWood24020@aol.com)
wrote:
>  Thanks, Theo.  I was looking around the 'net yesterday and saw  this:
> http://www.classicchambered.com/
>  Concern  is that there would really be minimal muffling. Upside would  be
> installation, particularly in terms of avoiding the  "mufflers  hanging
low"
> issue/look we have with our  cars.
>
> I also had another friend tell me he installed the  new tech,  small
diameter
>   glasspacks on his Tiger  with very good  results.
>
> I'm not a big fan of  Flowmaster  mufflers. I've yet to have an install
where
>  there  wasn't some droning, regardless as to whether running  an H or X
>  pipe.  They do sound good under throttle  and are made very well,  
though!

[demime 1.01d removed an  attachment of type image/jpeg  which had a name  
of
IMG_1333.JPG]
_______________________________________________

_ti
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 20:53:24 2013
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References: <8d5e8.1a6d62b0.3e938858@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 22:51:59 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: "MWood24020@aol.com" <MWood24020@aol.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

In all fairness the design of both the bike and the engine do not lend
themselves well to speed.

I think it's 6/8 cylinder Acuras I don't like.  They have some kind of
'designed' sound to them.  Not sure how to tell though - all asian cars
look the same to me.   Certainly 4 bangers _can_ sound great.  My 280hp
supercharged mini sound like music and it very light in the muffling
department.  Have a 4 cylinder turbo lotus twin cam that sings too.

Agree 6s, 8s and especially 10s sound the best though....

On Sunday, April 7, 2013, wrote:

> **
> Harley guys/gals love that unmuffled "potato potato"....me? notsomuch. To
> make it worse, on most all Harleys the throttle is more of a volume control
> than a discernible source of increased forward speed. If you're going to
> make that much noise, at least be fast.
>
> Any Honda/Acura or Miata four cylinder unmuffled is ear pain.
>
> Mazda rotaries require mufflers to sound less than annoying. Interesting
> engines, though.
>
> Inline sixes, V8's and V12's all tend to sound right, no matter how
> muffled or unmuffled they may be ;-)
>
>  In a message dated 4/7/2013 7:34:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> owain.lloyd@gmail.com writes:
>
> l up there.  I'm sure I'm offending people now so I'm going to shut up and
> apologise!
>
> On Sunday, April 7, 2013, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
> Aucra exhausts.... (The ones that sound like farts).   Not many engines
> sounds bad to me but Acuras and Harleys are wel
>
> On Sunday, April 7, 2013, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
> Oh god I know!  They sound even worse than pointless 'emergency' sirens.
>  Definitely one of my top 'angry hates' :) what do people see (or should I
> say hear) in that awful racket?
>
> I think all loud noises should be judged by the benchmark of 'would you
> rather your toddler kept sleeping or should they be woken up to experience
> said sound?'  If its not worth being interrupted from an interesting
> conversation from (and a small block ford usually is), I don't want to hear
> it!
>
> - angry Owain in noisy manhattan.
>
>
> On Sunday, April 7, 2013, wrote:
>
> Good noise a v8...  bad noise another asshole on a harly with open
> pipes.....my 650 single dr sounds way better than a harly and a gold star
> is
> even better
>
>
>
> ---- Original Message ----
> From: MWood24020 <MWood24020@aol.com>
> To: tsmit <tsmit@shaw.ca>; CoolVT <CoolVT@aol.com>
> Cc: tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Apr 7, 2013 4:31 pm
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems?
>
>
> Of course, we also need to differentiate "good noise" from "bad noise"...
> ;-)
>
>
> In a message dated 4/7/2013 1:25:14 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> tsmit@shaw.ca writes:
>
> True enough, but the LAT73/LAT74 headers and  exhaust, that these mufflers
> were part of, were not really intended for stock  engines.
>
> My Tiger came to me with a five-bolt 289 with ported and  polished heads, a
> Holley 600 and F4B manifold, and a pretty lopey cam. 'Quiet'  was not
> really in its repertoire, although sticking with a 2 inch exhaust  system
> does
> help keep the overall noise level down compared with 2 1/4 or 2  1/2 inch
> pipe, at the expense of some performance at the high end.
>
> Theo
>
> On 4/7/2013 1:58 PM, _CoolVT@aol.com_ (mailto:CoolVT@aol.com)   wrote:
>
>
> I can tell you that in using cheap old glass paks with a stock engine  and
> the same mufflers with a hopped up 302....they are much, much louder  with
> the 302.  I shouldn't think a stock engine would be that  difficult to
> muffle.
> Mark L
>
>
> In a message dated 4/7/2013 3:37:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> _tsmit@shaw.ca_ (mailto:tsmit@shaw.ca)  writes:
>
> Mike,
> Here's a picture of what I think are the Mitchell  mufflers - these are
> what was on my Tiger when I got it.
>
> For  the rest of you that won't get the picture:
>
> The body is 24" long,  3x5" oval, 2" in and out. Contrary to what I
> remembered, the hangers  attach 5" rearward from the front of the muffler
> body - there is only  about 20 inches between where the hangers attach on
> the chassis and  the rear axle tube.
>
> I do recall the front of these mufflers pretty  much touching the
> rearward part of the underbody X frame, just behind  the little exhaust
> pipe notch in the X. The sound of these mufflers  was pretty aggressive,
> but it went well with the rest of the system  and engine.
>
> I would also be concerned with the amount of sound  suppression that's
> possible in a small diameter muffler such as the  chambered ones in the
> link below. It may be that with proper choice of  all the internal
> volumes, they get noise cancellation at most of the  frequencies of
> interest, but it seems to me that the overall result  would still be
> pretty dependent on the rest of the package, i.e.  engine disp
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 19:55:45 -0700
References: <8d5e8.1a6d62b0.3e938858@aol.com>
To: MWood24020@aol.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems? - Honda
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

On Apr 7, 2013, at 7:41 PM, MWood24020@aol.com wrote:

> Any Honda/Acura or Miata four cylinder unmuffled is ear pain.

I'm going to disagree 100% - with only the best of intentions!  My son's Honda
S2000 screams like one of the most insane F1 cars ever when it gets into its
VTEC zone.  And, actually, our Acura MDX with V6 also has a fantastic sound
when it gets on its cam.  I'll agree the rank and file Civic as well as the
smaller Toyotas are lousy.  But, the S2000 gem is a different story all
together.
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	<FFD0A4A7-C175-4A36-BED6-95D27754D21E@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 23:00:18 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems? - Honda
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

There we go.  I've opened a hornet's nest.   Sorry Jay!

On Sunday, April 7, 2013, Jay Laifman wrote:

>
> On Apr 7, 2013, at 7:41 PM, MWood24020@aol.com <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
> 'MWood24020@aol.com');> wrote:
>
> Any Honda/Acura or Miata four cylinder unmuffled is ear pain.
>
>
> I'm going to disagree 100% - with only the best of intentions!  My son's
> Honda S2000 screams like one of the most insane F1 cars ever when it gets
> into its VTEC zone.  And, actually, our Acura MDX with V6 also has a
> fantastic sound when it gets on its cam.  I'll agree the rank and file
> Civic as well as the smaller Toyotas are lousy.  But, the S2000 gem is a
> different story all together.
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
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To: jay.laifman@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Chambered exhaust systems? - Honda
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Very true. The F20 and F22 Honda twin cams sound great. There are many four 
 cylinders that make wonderful noises, like just about every sportbike 
motor. I  was referring to the Civic/Integra four cylinder and all Miatae, 
should have  been more clear! :-)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 4/7/2013 7:55:49 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
jay.laifman@gmail.com writes:



On Apr 7, 2013, at 7:41 PM, _MWood24020@aol.com_ 
(mailto:MWood24020@aol.com)  wrote:


Any  Honda/Acura or Miata four cylinder unmuffled is ear pain. 



I'm going to disagree 100% - with only the best of intentions!  My  son's 
Honda S2000 screams like one of the most insane F1 cars ever when it  gets 
into its VTEC zone.  And, actually, our Acura MDX with V6 also has a  
fantastic sound when it gets on its cam.  I'll agree the rank and file  Civic as 
well as the smaller Toyotas are lousy.  But, the S2000 gem is a  different 
story all together.




=
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  8 06:42:30 2013
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From: "rande" <rande@thecia.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 08:41:02 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] off topic - S2000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Mark, do you know if there is an 'autox.team.net' group for the S2000. If there
is, I'm onboard.

Definitely on my list of ten cars that everyone should have the chance to drive.
240hp from a naturally aspirated four cylinder with no help needed from the
accessory booklet. Controls that are not just close to hand, but close to fingers
without taking your hand off of the steering wheel, a shifter that is more toggle
switch than shift lever, more fun to drive than either a Cobra SVT or Shelby
GT-H, and both of those were a blast. OK, not a V8 but how many ponys does your
stock Mark II put out, 200hp gross? OK, digital instrument cluster modelled
on '84 Corvette / Jedi transport. Nothing is perfect. But, the S2000 nearly
is. If you don't live in the snowbelt, there's almost no other excuse not to
have one. I'm a big fan.

Rande 
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] off topic - S2000's
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Rande, 


I agree! 



I bought an S2000 new in 2002 and kept it for nine years. I paid $32,400 for it and sold it for $16,000. Living in Massachusetts, I only drove the car between April and October. The only thing I ever did was change the oil and replace the tires. The car was an absolute blast to drive, especially after 5500 RPM. Keep that engine spooled up and they aren't many cars on the road that can keep up with it. I found the S2000 to be basically a motorcycle with four wheels. I've had muscle cars, sport cars, Tigers, Corvettes and motorcycles and have to say that the S2000 was the most fun! I replaced it with a new Z06 Corvette - also a blast to drive. I have fond memories (very) of my S2000. 


Tym McDowell 




----- Original Message -----
From: "rande" <rande@thecia.net> 
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, April 8, 2013 8:41:02 AM 
Subject: [Tigers] off topic - S2000's 

Mark, do you know if there is an 'autox.team.net' group for the S2000. If there 
is, I'm onboard. 

Definitely on my list of ten cars that everyone should have the chance to drive. 
240hp from a naturally aspirated four cylinder with no help needed from the 
accessory booklet. Controls that are not just close to hand, but close to fingers 
without taking your hand off of the steering wheel, a shifter that is more toggle 
switch than shift lever, more fun to drive than either a Cobra SVT or Shelby 
GT-H, and both of those were a blast. OK, not a V8 but how many ponys does your 
stock Mark II put out, 200hp gross? OK, digital instrument cluster modelled 
on '84 Corvette / Jedi transport. Nothing is perfect. But, the S2000 nearly 
is. If you don't live in the snowbelt, there's almost no other excuse not to 
have one. I'm a big fan. 

Rande 
_______________________________________________ 

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  8 15:21:30 2013
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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 17:16:38 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Tigers] Values?
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http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/1966/Sunbeam/Tiger/2-Door-Sport-Roads
ter/Values
 
 
http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/1967/Sunbeam/Alpine-V/2-Door-Sport-Ro
adster/Values
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  8 16:44:44 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2013 15:43:38 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Values?
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Interesting, I just recently had to quickly estimate the value of a Tiger in 
conversation the other day.  My guess was mid to high $20,000's to the low 
$40,000's for a decent, average Tiger.  Then I estimated mine at 
$12,000-$15,000.  :-(

Tom 
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 06:06:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Pulley Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Are the correct for 66 MK 1A with 289 HiPo motor (not correct 260 motor for
this year), single or double  groove, water pump, generator and crank
pulleys?
 
Thanks
Joel
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 06:26:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Carburator\Vacumn question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I installed SS headers on a 66 MK 1A with 289 HiPo motor, very difficult but
done.  Now my questions are 2 fold.  Where does the carb gets it's vacuum from
- Autolite 4100?  
 
Appears I will need vacuum for the brake booster, carb and possibly Petronix
distributor, as I cannot find anyone who can get the parts for rebuilding the
dual point FoMoCo distributor (shaft and bushings).  The only vacuum I am
aware is at the rear of the engine, top on the drivers side.  Can this handle
vacuum for all three?
 
Also, options for auto choke heat tubes with headers, where this came from
exhaust manifold with stock manifolds?
 
Thanks as always
 
Joel Martin
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  9 08:50:23 2013
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, Tiger List Serve
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Carburator\Vacumn question
Thread-Index: AQHONSXdZ7xhbcgugkCLP9rb9ivJE5jN9f7A
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 14:49:10 +0000
References: <1365513982.74878.YahooMailClassic@web164701.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carburator\Vacumn question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The carburetor doesn't need vacuum, it creates it - there should be a port on
one side of the primary throttle plates for the distributor vacuum. This will
be sized for 1/8 to 5/32 rubber line. The larger port on the intake manifold
runner is suitable for the brake booster.

The distributor port on the carb is ported so that it gives a strong vacuum
signal at low to part throttle, but very little at idle and none at wide open
throttle. If, for some reason, your carb doesn't have any vacuum port for the
distributor then you can either leave the distributor disconnected (which will
hurt your street driving fuel economy) or just connect it to the intake
manifold runner via a T fitting.

Having headers generally means you need to provide a manual or electric choke
hookup.

While the dual point distributor may be correct for the HiPo motor, the
Pertronix distributor will do the job better and give you vacuum advance as a
bonus. I'd keep the old distributor on the shelf just in case you sometime
find the parts and need to build a showpiece, but otherwise run the electronic
distributor because it will work better and doesn't require adjustment.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin
> Sent: April 9, 2013 7:26 AM
> To: Tiger List Serve
> Subject: [Tigers] Carburator\Vacumn question
>
> I installed SS headers on a 66 MK 1A with 289 HiPo motor, very
> difficult but done.  Now my questions are 2 fold.  Where does the carb
> gets it's vacuum from
> - Autolite 4100?
>
> Appears I will need vacuum for the brake booster, carb and possibly
> Petronix distributor, as I cannot find anyone who can get the parts for
> rebuilding the dual point FoMoCo distributor (shaft and bushings).  The
> only vacuum I am aware is at the rear of the engine, top on the drivers
> side.  Can this handle vacuum for all three?
>
> Also, options for auto choke heat tubes with headers, where this came
> from exhaust manifold with stock manifolds?
>
> Thanks as always
>
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  9 09:53:40 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 11:52:12 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac41IwaHflDGNlsfSpiLaXBywveNzwAFXKog
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8626,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-04-09_05:2013-04-09,2013-04-09,1970-01-01
	signatures=0
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	classifier=spam adjust=0 reason=mlx scancount=1
	engine=7.0.1-1211240000 definitions=main-1304090113
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pulley Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel
	All the Tiger specific pulleys are single groove.

C4JZ-6312-A	- Crank pulley
C4JZ-8509-A	- Fan pulley, water pump pulley
C2OF-10130-A - Generator pulley

	If you intend to run the HiPo at high rpm; you will need to use a
larger pulley on the generator or alternator.
HiPo generator pulley - C3OF-10130-B
HiPo alternator pulley - C5AF-10A352-C

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 9:06 AM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Pulley Questions


Are the correct for 66 MK 1A with 289 HiPo motor (not correct 260 motor for
this year), single or double  groove, water pump, generator and crank
pulleys?
 
Thanks
Joel
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 12:19:50 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac41JdtS/b1OYtkWTcuzf8C4TIhVeAAFaj0g
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carburator\Vacumn question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel
	The distributor bushing is B8QH-12120-A. A Google search indicates
they are still available.
The shaft depends on if it is an early style distributor, has oil port, or a
later style distributor.

The early style shaft - B8A-12175-A
I don't have a part number for the later style distributor shaft - C5 number
maybe.

The choke tube pipes went into the stock right exhaust manifold which has a
design feature to support those parts.
You could design and weld a similar feature to the headers.

I think most people go to an electric choke.  I have also seen a thermister
to put inline with the electric choke.
The thermister is a heat reactive, it will couple the choke opening with
engine heat.  I think Holley makes one but I would have to look for that
information.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 9:26 AM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Carburator\Vacumn question


I installed SS headers on a 66 MK 1A with 289 HiPo motor, very difficult but
done.  Now my questions are 2 fold.  Where does the carb gets it's vacuum
from
- Autolite 4100?

Appears I will need vacuum for the brake booster, carb and possibly Petronix
distributor, as I cannot find anyone who can get the parts for rebuilding
the dual point FoMoCo distributor (shaft and bushings).  The only vacuum I
am aware is at the rear of the engine, top on the drivers side.  Can this
handle vacuum for all three?

Also, options for auto choke heat tubes with headers, where this came from
exhaust manifold with stock manifolds?

Thanks as always

Joel Martin
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 2641/6234 - Release Date: 04/09/13
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 14:50:27 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: "rfraser@bluefrog.com" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Cc: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>,
	Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carburator\Vacumn question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Do you really need a choke? I've never used one even in cold winters.  At
worse I need to feather the throttle for 30 second or so when cold.

On Tuesday, April 9, 2013, Ron Fraser wrote:

> Joel
>         The distributor bushing is B8QH-12120-A. A Google search indicates
> they are still available.
> The shaft depends on if it is an early style distributor, has oil port, or
> a
> later style distributor.
>
> The early style shaft - B8A-12175-A
> I don't have a part number for the later style distributor shaft - C5
> number
> maybe.
>
> The choke tube pipes went into the stock right exhaust manifold which has a
> design feature to support those parts.
> You could design and weld a similar feature to the headers.
>
> I think most people go to an electric choke.  I have also seen a thermister
> to put inline with the electric choke.
> The thermister is a heat reactive, it will couple the choke opening with
> engine heat.  I think Holley makes one but I would have to look for that
> information.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net <javascript:;> [mailto:
> tigers-bounces@autox.team.net <javascript:;>]
> On Behalf Of Joel Martin
> Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 9:26 AM
> To: Tiger List Serve
> Subject: [Tigers] Carburator\Vacumn question
>
>
> I installed SS headers on a 66 MK 1A with 289 HiPo motor, very difficult
> but
> done.  Now my questions are 2 fold.  Where does the carb gets it's vacuum
> from
> - Autolite 4100?
>
> Appears I will need vacuum for the brake booster, carb and possibly
> Petronix
> distributor, as I cannot find anyone who can get the parts for rebuilding
> the dual point FoMoCo distributor (shaft and bushings).  The only vacuum I
> am aware is at the rear of the engine, top on the drivers side.  Can this
> handle vacuum for all three?
>
> Also, options for auto choke heat tubes with headers, where this came from
> exhaust manifold with stock manifolds?
>
> Thanks as always
>
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 2641/6234 - Release Date: 04/09/13
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 10 14:10:52 2013
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2013 13:07:52 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
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To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] OT: Brake adapter fittings Info sought
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I am building a doo hickey that will hopefully let me load the new race 
car motor so I can tune it  here in my shop. The doo hickey uses some 
English brake lines and fitting, the bubble flare kind and I foresee 
issues. The major one is that on the master cylinder I am using there 
are two brake fluid ports, One went to the front wheels and one to the 
back wheels.  In their infinite wisdom, the  Brits decided that while 
the brake lines them selves were ok at about an 1/8  inch in diameter, 
they needed different fittings on the master cylinder outlets.  I need 
an adapter which adapts teh larger one down to the size of the smaller 
one, lol. The smaller one is about 7/16 wrench size while the larger is 
more than 1/2 inch. So, what I am asking you folk for is the names of 
some place that might actually have something like that. A place that 
has a catalog or online descriptions that will clue me in as to what I 
really need. These parts are from an mid 70s XJ-S master cylinder.

any help out there?

TIA

mayf

-- 
______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "drmayf@mayfco.com" <drmayf@mayfco.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] OT: Brake adapter fittings Info sought
Thread-Index: AQHONidKKj/BPzXvYkK8G4vZWTKbu5jP4pJg
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2013 20:11:23 +0000
References: <5165C698.6050302@mayfco.com>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] OT: Brake adapter fittings Info sought
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Have you tried Pegasus Racing? They're a race shop but they do carry some
oddball (for this side of the pond) British pipe fittings.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
> Sent: April 10, 2013 2:08 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] OT: Brake adapter fittings Info sought
>
> I am building a doo hickey that will hopefully let me load the new race
> car motor so I can tune it  here in my shop. The doo hickey uses some
> English brake lines and fitting, the bubble flare kind and I foresee
> issues. The major one is that on the master cylinder I am using there
> are two brake fluid ports, One went to the front wheels and one to the
> back wheels.  In their infinite wisdom, the  Brits decided that while
> the brake lines them selves were ok at about an 1/8  inch in diameter,
> they needed different fittings on the master cylinder outlets.  I need
> an adapter which adapts teh larger one down to the size of the smaller
> one, lol. The smaller one is about 7/16 wrench size while the larger is
> more than 1/2 inch. So, what I am asking you folk for is the names of
> some place that might actually have something like that. A place that
> has a catalog or online descriptions that will clue me in as to what I
> really need. These parts are from an mid 70s XJ-S master cylinder.
>
> any help out there?
>
> TIA
>
> mayf
>
> --
> ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "drmayf@mayfco.com" <drmayf@mayfco.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] OT: Brake adapter fittings Info sought
Thread-Index: AQHONidKKj/BPzXvYkK8G4vZWTKbu5jP4vmg
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2013 20:14:29 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] OT: Brake adapter fittings Info sought
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... when we built a doohickey like that, we used Volvo calipers, the four
piston kind where it had split circuits for each pair of pistons. We
cross-drilled the interior of the calipers, cut the whatever-flare lines short
and capped them (just with solder), and then drilled a new pressure port and
tapped it 1/8NPT. That solved the adaptation problems.

Theo
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
> Sent: April 10, 2013 2:08 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] OT: Brake adapter fittings Info sought
>
> I am building a doo hickey that will hopefully let me load the new race
> car motor so I can tune it  here in my shop. The doo hickey uses some
> English brake lines and fitting, the bubble flare kind and I foresee
> issues. The major one is that on the master cylinder I am using there
> are two brake fluid ports, One went to the front wheels and one to the
> back wheels.  In their infinite wisdom, the  Brits decided that while
> the brake lines them selves were ok at about an 1/8  inch in diameter,
> they needed different fittings on the master cylinder outlets.  I need
> an adapter which adapts teh larger one down to the size of the smaller
> one, lol. The smaller one is about 7/16 wrench size while the larger is
> more than 1/2 inch. So, what I am asking you folk for is the names of
> some place that might actually have something like that. A place that
> has a catalog or online descriptions that will clue me in as to what I
> really need. These parts are from an mid 70s XJ-S master cylinder.
>
> any help out there?
>
> TIA
>
> mayf
>
> --
> ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 10 14:18:21 2013
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2013 14:17:13 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:19.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/19.0 SeaMonkey/2.16.2
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <5165C698.6050302@mayfco.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] OT: Brake adapter fittings Info sought
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

If you lived here in Salt Lake you could just take the bits down to Evco 
House of Hose
and see what they have on hand.  Pegasus carries some British fittings, 
can't remember
their web address right off hand, it shouldn't be hard to find.

mjb.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 00:27:59 2013
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 00:28:10 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:19.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Tiger's List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] 22 and counting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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April 11th, 1991 - Team.Net becomes an official domain.  For a few years 
before
that, though, the basic foundation was getting built up.  It has been a 
long ride
from those days until now.  We are still here.

And we can continue on for who knows how many more years?

If you'd like to help Team.Net continue, consider putting a few dollars
towards keeping it on the air:

http://www.team.net/donations.html

mjb.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 00:36:53 2013
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 00:32:13 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Tiger's List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] 22 and counting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

April 11th, 1991 - Team.Net becomes an official domain.  For a few years 
before
that, though, the basic foundation was getting built up.  It has been a 
long ride
from those days until now.  We are still here.

And we can continue on for who knows how many more years?

If you'd like to help Team.Net continue, consider putting a few dollars
towards keeping it on the air:

http://www.team.net/donations.html

mjb.
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 00:40:28 2013
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 00:41:24 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Tiger's List <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <516658ED.9060407@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 22 and counting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Oops.  Didn't mean to send it twice.

mjb.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 11:10:43 2013
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From: "rande" <rande@thecia.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 13:08:43 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers - N.E. TAC inspection is ON
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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OK, the TAC inspection session for New England is ON.

The date is Saturday, May 11, 2013. The location is at
the Holiday Inn Express, 400 Old Loudon Road, Latham, NY.
Latham is about 3 miles east of the Albany, New York airport.

Inspections are set to begin at 11:30am and need to be over
by 4pm, as two of the inspectors have flights home to make.

So far, the folks who indicated an interest in inspections are:

Owain L.
John M.
Don A.
Tym M.
Jeff R.
Mark L.
George R.

For folks who might want to stay overnight, please contact the hotel as soon
as you can for reservations. We do not have a block of rooms put aside because
pretty much all those I talked to will be showing up and leaving the same day.
If you have any questions, send me an email.

Rande Bellman
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 16:27:44 2013
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From: Rollright@aol.com
Full-name: Rollright
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 18:24:39 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1365719079;
	bh=hjkgFUWosAD0MWYfcK0HnedNjgH4CQEnDpo6hKUaD7M=;
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Subject: [Tigers] Shelly sticker on jack - source
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Hello
 
I got a grreat picture of a Dale A. restoration focusing on details of the  
trunk.
 
The jack has a perfect (new) Shelly sticker on it.
 
Anybody know where I can buy one for my jack/trunk restoration?
 
Best to everybody,
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 09:28:59 2013
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	Fri, 12 Apr 2013 08:27:14 -0700
From: "Curt Bowland" <cbowland@msn.com>
To: "tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 10:27:14 -0500
Seal-Send-Time: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 10:27:14 -0500
	FILETIME=[35B684F0:01CE3792]
Subject: [Tigers] Magazine article
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Greetings,

The April issue of Classic & Sports Car magazine (getting a bit pricey @ $9.99
USD per copy/ UK # 4.70) has a great seven page full color track test of the
"Monster" Tiger. There is even a small photo on the cover as well, calling
attention to the article. Quite a lot of information that I have not seen in
print before.

Also included in the magazine is a smaller  "tip in" magazine tribute to 100
years of Aston Martin. On inside of the very last page of this smaller
magazine there is an ad by three Aston sales and service organizations. In the
ad there is a head shot of a Siberian Tiger with the byline below it that
states " rare breeds are worth saving"! Thought it a bit humorous that they
would choose to use a Tiger.

Enjoy,
Curt in Chicago
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 13 15:12:25 2013
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From: "rande" <rande@thecia.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 17:01:07 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers - Monster article and other off-topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Curt,

Thanks for the heads up about the April 2013 Classic & Sports Car magazine article
about the Alan Fraser team "Monster" Tiger(Does Chris Gruys own this?) Also
has a short obit for Phil Remington, and separately stuff about the history
of Aston Martin.

Speaking of expensive magazines, the $15 quarterly Motor Trend Classic (Spring
2013) is out. Just highlights:

Comparo of '76 Cosworth Vega versus '76 Capri II base model V6
(Stu, got that?), top 10 movie cars few people noticed, profile of Bob Bondurant
today, Howard Weaver (Garaj Mahal private collection), comparo of MB 190 2.3-16
valve saloon versus BMW E30 M3 Sport Evolution, and auction of '68 Shelby GT500KR
fastback, autobox in Lime Frost/Legend Green for only $78,100 including premium(and
looking like it should be worth more).

Rande
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 08:11:17 2013
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From: "rande" <rande@thecia.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 10:05:14 -0400
Cc: greengear@ymail.com
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers - Deadline to sign up for Albany TAC inspections
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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The deadline to sign up for TAC inspections in Albany, NY is
Saturday, April 20, 2013. The reason for the deadline is to insure that we will
have enough time to inspect every car
within the 4.5 hour window that inspectors will be in town, and to gauge whether
we need to fly in additional inspectors to
accomodate everyone.

The date is Saturday, May 11, 2013. The location is at
the Holiday Inn Express, 400 Old Loudon Road, Latham, NY.
Latham is about 3 miles east of the Albany, New York airport.

Inspections are set to begin at 11:30am and need to be over
by 4pm, as two of the inspectors have flights home to make.

So far, the folks who indicated an interest in inspections are:

Owain L.
John M.
Don A.
Tym M.
Jeff R.
Mark L.
George R.
Peter B (Ottawa)

For folks who might want to stay overnight, please contact the hotel as soon
as you can for reservations. We do not have a block of rooms held, as most people
planned to come and go on the same day.
If you have any questions, send me an email or call at (781)643-8736. If your
name is on the above list, and you think you can not come, please let me know.


Rande Bellman
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 12:35:07 2013
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From: Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 14:18:29 -0400
To: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Spring startup
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey guys. Again I come to drink at the well.

I live in Northern Utah and it's still pretty cold here but I pulled the Tiger
out, charged the battery and fired it up. Fires up great then immediately
quits. Fired it up and immediately quits.

The starter miter gas always had a hard time disengaging after the start
anyway, which I need to fix, (some kind of rewiring issue needed) but as I
start it, the engine sounds great, for Agee seconds as long as I have the
starter motor engaged. Quits immediately when it's on it's own,

After a few tries, I see a steam out of a heater hose fitting.

Immediately rolled it back into the garage worried about oil and coolant.
Haven't had time to run through a check list. Would love to have some thoughts
and ideas on what that check list should look like.

Thanks ahead of time
Jeff Holt
Huntsville, UT
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 13:03:45 2013
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References: <274903C9-9EFD-445D-AC5D-F2149B661AB6@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 11:34:47 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Spring startup
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Fuel pump?


On Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 11:18 AM, Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey guys. Again I come to drink at the well.
>
> I live in Northern Utah and it's still pretty cold here but I pulled the
> Tiger
> out, charged the battery and fired it up. Fires up great then immediately
> quits. Fired it up and immediately quits.
>
> The starter miter gas always had a hard time disengaging after the start
> anyway, which I need to fix, (some kind of rewiring issue needed) but as I
> start it, the engine sounds great, for Agee seconds as long as I have the
> starter motor engaged. Quits immediately when it's on it's own,
>
> After a few tries, I see a steam out of a heater hose fitting.
>
> Immediately rolled it back into the garage worried about oil and coolant.
> Haven't had time to run through a check list. Would love to have some
> thoughts
> and ideas on what that check list should look like.
>
> Thanks ahead of time
> Jeff Holt
> Huntsville, UT
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 11:37:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Radiator Hoses and spark plug wire seperators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Were flex radiator hoses used on MK 1A or a smooth molded, pattern?
 
Were the spark plug wire seperators metal or plastic and how many, 4 wire
holder on valve cover, 2 or 3 wire holder in other locations?  Any part
numbers would be appreciated.
 
Thanks
Joel Martin
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 13:04:57 2013
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From: "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com>
To: Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com>, Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 14:57:33 -0400
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Spring startup
Thread-Index: Ac47mgdaWN+dljW3SWmw+m0zSPdhdAAAXiEQ
References: <274903C9-9EFD-445D-AC5D-F2149B661AB6@gmail.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
acceptlanguage: en-US
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Spring startup
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The starting issue sounds as though one of the wires to the ballast resistor
may have come disconnected.  As for the steam, are you sure it was steam and
not smoke from an overheated wire in the starting circuit?

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jeff Holt
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 11:18 AM
To: Tiger List
Subject: [Tigers] Spring startup

Hey guys. Again I come to drink at the well.

I live in Northern Utah and it's still pretty cold here but I pulled the Tiger
out, charged the battery and fired it up. Fires up great then immediately
quits. Fired it up and immediately quits.

The starter miter gas always had a hard time disengaging after the start
anyway, which I need to fix, (some kind of rewiring issue needed) but as I
start it, the engine sounds great, for Agee seconds as long as I have the
starter motor engaged. Quits immediately when it's on it's own,

After a few tries, I see a steam out of a heater hose fitting.

Immediately rolled it back into the garage worried about oil and coolant.
Haven't had time to run through a check list. Would love to have some thoughts
and ideas on what that check list should look like.

Thanks ahead of time
Jeff Holt
Huntsville, UT
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 13:21:50 2013
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 19:07:17 +0000 (UTC)
From: genepadgett@comcast.net
To: Jere Teepen <jteepen@usatoday.com>
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Cc: Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com>, Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Spring startup
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree with Jere. I seem to recall having the same problem years ago and it turned out to be a loose connection at the ballast resistor. Even if everything looks connected, make sure firm contact is being made. 


Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jere Teepen" <jteepen@usatoday.com> 
To: "Jeff Holt" <jeff.holt7@gmail.com>, "Tiger List" <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 1:57:33 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Spring startup 

The starting issue sounds as though one of the wires to the ballast resistor 
may have come disconnected. As for the steam, are you sure it was steam and 
not smoke from an overheated wire in the starting circuit? 

-----Original Message----- 
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On 
Behalf Of Jeff Holt 
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 11:18 AM 
To: Tiger List 
Subject: [Tigers] Spring startup 

Hey guys. Again I come to drink at the well. 

I live in Northern Utah and it's still pretty cold here but I pulled the Tiger 
out, charged the battery and fired it up. Fires up great then immediately 
quits. Fired it up and immediately quits. 

The starter miter gas always had a hard time disengaging after the start 
anyway, which I need to fix, (some kind of rewiring issue needed) but as I 
start it, the engine sounds great, for Agee seconds as long as I have the 
starter motor engaged. Quits immediately when it's on it's own, 

After a few tries, I see a steam out of a heater hose fitting. 

Immediately rolled it back into the garage worried about oil and coolant. 
Haven't had time to run through a check list. Would love to have some thoughts 
and ideas on what that check list should look like. 

Thanks ahead of time 
Jeff Holt 
Huntsville, UT 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________ 

tigers@autox.team.net 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett@comcast.net 
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 12:07:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

All
 
Does anyone know a part number of correct thermostat housing?  Does it have
just one nipple for a 66 MK 1A 289 motor?  I will be installing the heater
core.
 
Also, I purchased the FMS-M-6880-A50       90 DEGREE OIL FILTER ADAPTOR.  This
requires a nipple adapter that goes into the block and then into the bolt of
the adapter.  In checking with Summit, they said it was 3/4" x16 on both
sides.  Apparently not, anyone know the correct nipple to purchase with part
number  aaa x size on the block side and 3/4 x 16 on the adapter side.
 
Thanks
Joel Martin
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <274903C9-9EFD-445D-AC5D-F2149B661AB6@gmail.com>
	<E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E155440225A1B796@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 12:12:37 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Spring startup
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I often find that cars that have sat for a long time have fuel filter 
clogging issues. If the car is used often the sediment churns, but left 
sitting for a period of time it settles and solidifies. If you can confirm 
that the fuel pump is functioning then the filter is a cheap and easy 
"second guess."  Tom 
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 13:52:11 2013
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, Tiger List Serve
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
Thread-Index: AQHOO6ClNx2d7nxnT0iqMNcTTcCkwpja0FDg
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 19:43:36 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
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Google is your friend...
F1AZ6890B

Apparently this part is about $8.66 at your local Ford parts counter.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin
> Sent: April 17, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: Tiger List Serve
> Subject: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
>
> All
>
> Does anyone know a part number of correct thermostat housing?  Does it
> have just one nipple for a 66 MK 1A 289 motor?  I will be installing
> the heater core.
>
> Also, I purchased the FMS-M-6880-A50       90 DEGREE OIL FILTER
> ADAPTOR.  This
> requires a nipple adapter that goes into the block and then into the
> bolt of the adapter.  In checking with Summit, they said it was 3/4"
> x16 on both sides.  Apparently not, anyone know the correct nipple to
> purchase with part number  aaa x size on the block side and 3/4 x 16 on
> the adapter side.
>
> Thanks
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
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>
>


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 13:53:15 2013
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Yet another remote oil filter block adapter
Thread-Index: Ac47pLImdOZOpnooSrmZAjG8j9Q0ZQ==
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 19:49:39 +0000
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Subject: [Tigers] Yet another remote oil filter block adapter
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Google (again!) came up with this one. Haven't seen that style before.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Hy-Lube-S-B-Ford-Remote-Oil-Filter-Adapter,115.
html

Depending on exactly how far the front header tube overhangs the oil filter
adapter zone, this may work for you.

Cheers,
Theo




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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 14:22:52 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 16:20:25 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Radiator Hoses and spark plug wire seperators
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Joel
	Radiator hoses are smooth molded.  Sunbeam Specialties carries them.

Spark plug wire separators; Shop Manual and Magazine pictures of the day
indicate the following

2 - valve cover wire holders - B8Q-12297-A

2 - 4 wire separators - B6A-12297-A

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:38 PM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Radiator Hoses and spark plug wire seperators


Were flex radiator hoses used on MK 1A or a smooth molded, pattern?
 
Were the spark plug wire seperators metal or plastic and how many, 4 wire
holder on valve cover, 2 or 3 wire holder in other locations?  Any part
numbers would be appreciated.
 
Thanks
Joel Martin
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 14:54:54 2013
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To: "'Jeff Holt'" <jeff.holt7@gmail.com>, "'Tiger List'"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 16:47:27 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Spring startup
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff
	When the starter motor is running there is 12v going to the coil -
White/ Blue wire.  When you turn the key to Run position the White wire on
the ignition switch goes through the Tach to the ballast resistor to the
coil.

	Your able to fire the engine in start position.  Run position it
quits.

Check all along the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil for good
connections or bad wires.

Sometimes a ballast resistor will short to ground.

Its possible the fuel system is the problem too.  Starting condition would
go to no start at all if true.

Can you hear the electric fuel pump work?
If no; check that the fuel pump is working
If yes.
Is the fuel bowl of the carb full of fuel?
If no; fuel filter or line maybe clogged.
If yes; system should be OK.

Ron Fraser





-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jeff Holt
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:18 PM
To: Tiger List
Subject: [Tigers] Spring startup


Hey guys. Again I come to drink at the well.

I live in Northern Utah and it's still pretty cold here but I pulled the
Tiger out, charged the battery and fired it up. Fires up great then
immediately quits. Fired it up and immediately quits.

The starter miter gas always had a hard time disengaging after the start
anyway, which I need to fix, (some kind of rewiring issue needed) but as I
start it, the engine sounds great, for Agee seconds as long as I have the
starter motor engaged. Quits immediately when it's on it's own,

After a few tries, I see a steam out of a heater hose fitting.

Immediately rolled it back into the garage worried about oil and coolant.
Haven't had time to run through a check list. Would love to have some
thoughts and ideas on what that check list should look like.

Thanks ahead of time
Jeff Holt
Huntsville, UT
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel
	Thermostat housing only has 1 nipple for any 260 or 289 engine.
C3OZ-8594-B original thermostat housing

Your chances of finding a good original part is low.  This part is carried
by Sunbeam Specialties and you will find it in most or all early Mustang
catalogs; probably other places too.

Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 3:07 PM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter


All

Does anyone know a part number of correct thermostat housing?  Does it have
just one nipple for a 66 MK 1A 289 motor?  I will be installing the heater
core.

Also, I purchased the FMS-M-6880-A50       90 DEGREE OIL FILTER ADAPTOR.
This
requires a nipple adapter that goes into the block and then into the bolt of
the adapter.  In checking with Summit, they said it was 3/4" x16 on both
sides.  Apparently not, anyone know the correct nipple to purchase with part
number  aaa x size on the block side and 3/4 x 16 on the adapter side.

Thanks
Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6250 - Release Date: 04/17/13
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 15:11:53 2013
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From: <awtiger@cox.net>
To: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>, Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Spring startup
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Yep, Jeff...I agree with some of the other guys that the fault is more than likely in your ballast resistor.  I have had this problem with my Tiger before and, upon inspection, found one of the two wires going to the resistor loose inside it's terminal.  I tightened it up and have not had the problem since.  

I also had a good friend who had this same thing happen to him on his Tiger while we were at the Texas Shelby Meet back in the '80s.  As it turned out, his ballast resistor had gone bad and shorted out inside.  He got the car home by connecting the two wires together and bypassing the resistor.  It'll run like that, but it will fry the points in the distributor fairly quickly.

Best of luck,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740


---- Jeff Holt <jeff.holt7@gmail.com> wrote: 
> Hey guys. Again I come to drink at the well.
> 
> I live in Northern Utah and it's still pretty cold here but I pulled the Tiger
> out, charged the battery and fired it up. Fires up great then immediately
> quits. Fired it up and immediately quits.
> 
> The starter miter gas always had a hard time disengaging after the start
> anyway, which I need to fix, (some kind of rewiring issue needed) but as I
> start it, the engine sounds great, for Agee seconds as long as I have the
> starter motor engaged. Quits immediately when it's on it's own,
> 
> After a few tries, I see a steam out of a heater hose fitting.
> 
> Immediately rolled it back into the garage worried about oil and coolant.
> Haven't had time to run through a check list. Would love to have some thoughts
> and ideas on what that check list should look like.
> 
> Thanks ahead of time
> Jeff Holt
> Huntsville, UT
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers@autox.team.net
> 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 15:29:16 2013
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 17:03:28 -0400
From: <awtiger@cox.net>
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, 'Joel Martin' <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>,  'Tiger
	List Serve' <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Radiator Hoses and spark plug wire seperators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

And, Joel, the seperators were plastic.

Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

----  Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote: 
> Joel
> 	Radiator hoses are smooth molded.  Sunbeam Specialties carries them.
> 
> Spark plug wire separators; Shop Manual and Magazine pictures of the day
> indicate the following
> 
> 2 - valve cover wire holders - B8Q-12297-A
> 
> 2 - 4 wire separators - B6A-12297-A
> 
> Ron Fraser
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Joel Martin
> Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:38 PM
> To: Tiger List Serve
> Subject: [Tigers] Radiator Hoses and spark plug wire seperators
> 
> 
> Were flex radiator hoses used on MK 1A or a smooth molded, pattern?
>  
> Were the spark plug wire seperators metal or plastic and how many, 4 wire
> holder on valve cover, 2 or 3 wire holder in other locations?  Any part
> numbers would be appreciated.
>  
> Thanks
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers@autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----
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> _______________________________________________
> 
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> 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 16:12:28 2013
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From: "Mark Rense" <mark44124@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 17:58:23 -0400
thread-index: Ac47tq5FKgx47EyxTmeK/jYzjhVtfw==
Subject: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Doing the finishing touches now on B382001465, I have a nice shiny new
engine plate from Rick that I need to be stamped. Anybody in the group still
do this for a reasonable fee?

Bugz
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From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
To: "'Mark Rense'" <mark44124@gmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <A2C0781809D24B019939EB6F6AB77B14@delld630>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 17:38:17 -0500
thread-index: AQDseY2HMN5NVSAyXAHiNyYVHuhzSpqehQ5Q
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm also interested in this, too.  I've got one of those plates as well and
would like to get it stamped as the originals were.  Does anybody out there
do this?

Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Rense
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 4:58 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping

Doing the finishing touches now on B382001465, I have a nice shiny new
engine plate from Rick that I need to be stamped. Anybody in the group still
do this for a reasonable fee?

Bugz
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 17:30:30 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Andy Walker'" <awtiger@cox.net>, "'Mark Rense'"
	<mark44124@gmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 19:16:29 -0400
Thread-Index: AQDseY2HMN5NVSAyXAHiNyYVHuhzSpqehQ5QgAAKEYA=
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8626,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-04-17_08:2013-04-17,2013-04-17,1970-01-01
	signatures=0
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	engine=7.0.1-1211240000 definitions=main-1304170252
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Andy & Mark

Your talking about the Sunbeam LTD emblem for the valve cover right?

Not the aluminum engine ID tag.

Here is a note from Duke Samouce for the Sunbeam LTD emblem.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 6:54 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Engine decal done....and done very well.


A happy Friday evening to you all,

The engine decal was had stamped by Larry Atkisson for $35. Here is his
email - catkisson@aol.com

http://e28-535i.com/upload/tgr2.JPG

You can see the progress on the engine here -
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9028

Thanks for looking

Duke
B382002037



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andy Walker
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 6:38 PM
To: 'Mark Rense'; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping


I'm also interested in this, too.  I've got one of those plates as well and
would like to get it stamped as the originals were.  Does anybody out there
do this?

Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Rense
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 4:58 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping

Doing the finishing touches now on B382001465, I have a nice shiny new
engine plate from Rick that I need to be stamped. Anybody in the group still
do this for a reasonable fee?

Bugz
_______________________________________________

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger@cox.net
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-----
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 17:32:51 2013
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 16:26:45 -0700
From: Tom Hall <modtiger@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Spring startup
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

On 4/17/2013 11:57 AM, Teepen, Jere wrote:
> The starting issue sounds as though one of the wires to the ballast resistor
> may have come disconnected.  As for the steam, are you sure it was steam and
> not smoke from an overheated wire in the starting circuit?
>
>

Guys, Jeff has a 302 crate engine with an MSD 6AL ignition.  There is no 
balast resistor that I know of, but then, I didn't wire his car.  It 
sounds like he's not getting 12 volts continous from the ignition switch 
and someone has provided the 6AL with the ignition power from the 
white/blue wire from a solenoid.  It has run in the past and this is a 
new problem, so something has changed.  He was supplied a new starter 
with integral solenoid.  I don't know if the OEM remote solenoid was 
retained or discarded.  It has to have the 12 volt primary to the 6AL, 
or it wouldn't fire at all.  I think the car needs some serious wiring help.

-- 
Tom Hall
ModTiger Engineering LLC
www.tigerengineering.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 18:32:56 2013
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From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
To: <rfraser@bluefrog.com>, "'Mark Rense'" <mark44124@gmail.com>,
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <001501ce3bbc$41a73290$c4f597b0$@cox.net>
	<BE28C00B01E344A08AC89B390919660B@ronpc1>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 19:28:59 -0500
Thread-Index: AQHi95l7MzHubj9OgnTtg+690udib5ixoNgg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ron:

Fantastic...that's exactly what I'm talking about.  Please don't get me
wrong...I'm not trying to alter or create an ID tag at all.  This is only
regarding the engine sticker on the valve cover.  I'll be contacting Larry
per Duke's note. 

Thanks again,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Fraser [mailto:rfraser@bluefrog.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 6:16 PM
To: 'Andy Walker'; 'Mark Rense'; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping

Andy & Mark

Your talking about the Sunbeam LTD emblem for the valve cover right?

Not the aluminum engine ID tag.

Here is a note from Duke Samouce for the Sunbeam LTD emblem.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 6:54 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Engine decal done....and done very well.


A happy Friday evening to you all,

The engine decal was had stamped by Larry Atkisson for $35. Here is his
email - catkisson@aol.com

http://e28-535i.com/upload/tgr2.JPG

You can see the progress on the engine here -
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9028

Thanks for looking

Duke
B382002037



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andy Walker
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 6:38 PM
To: 'Mark Rense'; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping


I'm also interested in this, too.  I've got one of those plates as well and
would like to get it stamped as the originals were.  Does anybody out there
do this?

Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Rense
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 4:58 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping

Doing the finishing touches now on B382001465, I have a nice shiny new
engine plate from Rick that I need to be stamped. Anybody in the group still
do this for a reasonable fee?

Bugz
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 19:36:46 2013
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From: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>
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References: <274903C9-9EFD-445D-AC5D-F2149B661AB6@gmail.com>
	<E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E155440225A1B796@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Spring startup
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The integral solenoid on my starter draws something like 20 amps. That 
was enough to soften the insulation on the white/red wire going from the 
ignition keyswitch to the starter, and it ended up touching another wire 
and shorting to it. This is what killed my autocross at Suni V... if 
Jeff's starter is anything like mine, it should be wired using one of 
the little Bosch cube relays to keep the current draw through the 
ignition switch at reasonable levels.

I have my MSD 6AL wired with the heavy power wire going to the junction 
point that replaces the OEM remote solenoid - it's where the heavy brown 
wires terminate in the OEM wiring. The ignition switched wire (small red 
wire on the MSD) goes to the 'run' position on the keyswitch; that would 
be the white wires on the OEM color scheme.  I use the reluctor sensing 
on the MSD so the white wire is insulated and taped off; Jeff should 
check that whatever triggering scheme he's using, the other wire(s) are 
properly insulated and not shorting against anything.

Theo

On 4/17/2013 5:26 PM, Tom Hall wrote:
>
> Guys, Jeff has a 302 crate engine with an MSD 6AL ignition.  There is 
> no balast resistor that I know of, but then, I didn't wire his car.  
> It sounds like he's not getting 12 volts continous from the ignition 
> switch and someone has provided the 6AL with the ignition power from 
> the white/blue wire from a solenoid.  It has run in the past and this 
> is a new problem, so something has changed.  He was supplied a new 
> starter with integral solenoid.  I don't know if the OEM remote 
> solenoid was retained or discarded.  It has to have the 12 volt 
> primary to the 6AL, or it wouldn't fire at all.  I think the car needs 
> some serious wiring help.
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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: "rfraser@bluefrog.com" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>, 'Andy Walker'
	<awtiger@cox.net>, 'Mark Rense' <mark44124@gmail.com>,
	"tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 13:03:06 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Ron!

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ron Fraser
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 7:16 PM
To: 'Andy Walker'; 'Mark Rense'; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine ID Plate Stamping

Andy & Mark

Your talking about the Sunbeam LTD emblem for the valve cover right?

Not the aluminum engine ID tag.

Here is a note from Duke Samouce for the Sunbeam LTD emblem.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 6:54 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Engine decal done....and done very well.


A happy Friday evening to you all,

The engine decal was had stamped by Larry Atkisson for $35. Here is his email
- catkisson@aol.com

http://e28-535i.com/upload/tgr2.JPG

You can see the progress on the engine here -
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9028

Thanks for looking

Duke
B382002037
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 07:35:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>, TheoSmit
	<Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>, Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Summit carries the nipple AAF-ALL92003 or Ford Number F1AZ6890B, thanks Theo,
for $6.59 which is ~1" on block side and 3/4" - 16 on oil adapter side.  I
bought the Ford adapter M-68801-A50 as suggested on Tiger United site for
$79.95.  Hope this nipple works.  I really wanted to use the remote oil filter
set up but hose's were a challenge and cost prohibitive.
 
Scott Drake parts from Summit carries the spark plug wire separators, thanks
Ron, B8Q-12297-A for $1.93 and B6A-12297-A for $3.93.
 
Scott Drake parts from Summit references a different part number for the
thermostat housing C50E-8592-A for $17.97 instead of the C30Z-8594-B, thanks
Ron, but appears close as the angle is not a 90 degree like Ford part number
M-8592-M-90 for $33.95 which is a 90 degree.
 
You guys are keeping me moving.  Clutch bled, waiting on booster to come back
from rebuild, Petronix distributor and coil to be installed, fuel and brake
lines run, - no fuel from refurbished tanks thru fuel pump though - always a
challenge.  With the SS headers, will need to change choke to electric or go
to manual as no heat tube connections with headers unless someone has a
different idea for a heat tube alternative?
 
Not sure where on the Autolite 4100 carburetor to connect the ported vacuum
from the distributor to the carb though - any Ideas?
 
Thanks
Joel Martin
 
 
 
--- On Wed, 4/17/13, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com> wrote:


From: Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
To: "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "Tiger List Serve"
<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 17, 2013, 3:43 PM


Google is your friend...
F1AZ6890B

Apparently this part is about $8.66 at your local Ford parts counter.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin
> Sent: April 17, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: Tiger List Serve
> Subject: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
>
> All
>
> Does anyone know a part number of correct thermostat housing?  Does it
> have just one nipple for a 66 MK 1A 289 motor?  I will be installing
> the heater core.
>
> Also, I purchased the FMS-M-6880-A50       90 DEGREE OIL FILTER
> ADAPTOR.  This
> requires a nipple adapter that goes into the block and then into the
> bolt of the adapter.  In checking with Summit, they said it was 3/4"
> x16 on both sides.  Apparently not, anyone know the correct nipple to
> purchase with part number  aaa x size on the block side and 3/4 x 16 on
> the adapter side.
>
> Thanks
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, Tiger List Serve
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>, Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
Thread-Index: AQHOO6ClNx2d7nxnT0iqMNcTTcCkwpja0FDggAGQEgD//67GIA==
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 14:49:43 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

A web search says that the 4100 only has a full-time (not ported) vacuum port
on the choke side at the base of the carb. The OEM fitment had a screw-in hard
line going to the distributor; you might have to fab a fitting (take a 1"
piece of brake line and use a thread die to put some appropriate threads on
it, then screw that in with some blue loctite) so you can use it with a rubber
line. One reference I found says the thread is 1/8" pipe, if that's the case
you can get a brass fitting that goes from 1/8" pipe to 1/8" or 5/32" barb at
any decent plumbing or car parts store.

Theo

From: Joel Martin [mailto:jmartiniii@yahoo.com]
Sent: April 18, 2013 8:35 AM
To: Tiger List Serve; Smit, Theo; Ron Fraser
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter

Summit carries the nipple AAF-ALL92003 or Ford Number F1AZ6890B, thanks Theo,
for $6.59 which is ~1" on block side and 3/4" - 16 on oil adapter side.  I
bought the Ford adapter M-68801-A50 as suggested on Tiger United site for
$79.95.  Hope this nipple works.  I really wanted to use the remote oil filter
set up but hose's were a challenge and cost prohibitive.

Scott Drake parts from Summit carries the spark plug wire separators, thanks
Ron, B8Q-12297-A for $1.93 and B6A-12297-A for $3.93.

Scott Drake parts from Summit references a different part number for the
thermostat housing C50E-8592-A for $17.97 instead of the C30Z-8594-B, thanks
Ron, but appears close as the angle is not a 90 degree like Ford part number
M-8592-M-90 for $33.95 which is a 90 degree.

You guys are keeping me moving.  Clutch bled, waiting on booster to come back
from rebuild, Petronix distributor and coil to be installed, fuel and brake
lines run, - no fuel from refurbished tanks thru fuel pump though - always a
challenge.  With the SS headers, will need to change choke to electric or go
to manual as no heat tube connections with headers unless someone has a
different idea for a heat tube alternative?

Not sure where on the Autolite 4100 carburetor to connect the ported vacuum
from the distributor to the carb though - any Ideas?

Thanks
Joel Martin



--- On Wed, 4/17/13, Smit, Theo

Subject: RE: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
Date: Wednesday, April 17, 2013, 3:43 PM
Google is your friend...
F1AZ6890B

Apparently this part is about $8.66 at your local Ford parts counter.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
tigers-bounces@autox.team.net<http://us.mc1647.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=t
igers-bounces@autox.team.net> [mailto:tigers-
>
bounces@autox.team.net<http://us.mc1647.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bounces@
autox.team.net>] On Behalf Of Joel Martin
> Sent: April 17, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: Tiger List Serve
> Subject: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
>
> All
>
> Does anyone know a part number of correct thermostat housing?  Does it
> have just one nipple for a 66 MK 1A 289 motor?  I will be installing
> the heater core.
>
> Also, I purchased the FMS-M-6880-A50       90 DEGREE OIL FILTER
> ADAPTOR.  This
> requires a nipple adapter that goes into the block and then into the
> bolt of the adapter.  In checking with Summit, they said it was 3/4"
> x16 on both sides.  Apparently not, anyone know the correct nipple to
> purchase with part number  aaa x size on the block side and 3/4 x 16 on
> the adapter side.
>
> Thanks
> Joel Martin
tox.team.net>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 18 09:26:51 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>, "'TheoSmit'" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 11:24:17 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac48QemZ0esTgiYMSlGsDHguNZOfwwABgkcg
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8626,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-04-18_06:2013-04-18,2013-04-18,1970-01-01
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	engine=7.0.1-1211240000 definitions=main-1304180119
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel

Thermostat housing

    The C5 part number is just the updated part number for that part.
I always note the Ford part number from the Rootes Parts List so you have
the base number to work from.
I don't have interchange or updated part number information available or I
would include that too.

Vacuum port

The 4100 4bbl uses the same parts as the 2100 2bbl.   It you have the 2bbl
parts available they should work with the 4bbl.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: Joel Martin [mailto:jmartiniii@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 10:35 AM
To: Tiger List Serve; TheoSmit; Ron Fraser
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter



Summit carries the nipple AAF-ALL92003 or Ford Number F1AZ6890B, thanks
Theo, for $6.59 which is ~1" on block side and 3/4" - 16 on oil adapter
side.  I bought the Ford adapter M-68801-A50 as suggested on Tiger United
site for $79.95.  Hope this nipple works.  I really wanted to use the remote
oil filter set up but hose's were a challenge and cost prohibitive.

Scott Drake parts from Summit carries the spark plug wire separators, thanks
Ron, B8Q-12297-A for $1.93 and B6A-12297-A for $3.93.

Scott Drake parts from Summit references a different part number for the
thermostat housing C50E-8592-A for $17.97 instead of the C30Z-8594-B, thanks
Ron, but appears close as the angle is not a 90 degree like Ford part number
M-8592-M-90 for $33.95 which is a 90 degree.

You guys are keeping me moving.  Clutch bled, waiting on booster to come
back from rebuild, Petronix distributor and coil to be installed, fuel and
brake lines run, - no fuel from refurbished tanks thru fuel pump though -
always a challenge.  With the SS headers, will need to change choke to
electric or go to manual as no heat tube connections with headers unless
someone has a different idea for a heat tube alternative?

Not sure where on the Autolite 4100 carburetor to connect the ported vacuum
from the distributor to the carb though - any Ideas?

Thanks
Joel Martin



--- On Wed, 4/17/13, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com> wrote:



From: Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
To: "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "Tiger List Serve"
<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 17, 2013, 3:43 PM


Google is your friend...
F1AZ6890B

Apparently this part is about $8.66 at your local Ford parts counter.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1647.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
>  [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1647.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bounces@autox.team.net> ] On
Behalf Of Joel Martin
> Sent: April 17, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: Tiger List Serve
> Subject: [Tigers] Thermostat Housing and Right Angle oil filter adapter
>
> All
>
> Does anyone know a part number of correct thermostat housing?  Does it
> have just one nipple for a 66 MK 1A 289 motor?  I will be installing
> the heater core.
>
> Also, I purchased the FMS-M-6880-A50       90 DEGREE OIL FILTER
> ADAPTOR.  This
> requires a nipple adapter that goes into the block and then into the
> bolt of the adapter.  In checking with Summit, they said it was 3/4"
> x16 on both sides.  Apparently not, anyone know the correct nipple to
> purchase with part number  aaa x size on the block side and 3/4 x 16 on
> the adapter side.
>
> Thanks
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1647.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=tigers@autox.team.net>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


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Thank you.
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From: "Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 20:06:10 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac48me3eu0xu7SENTvuBeMz6whaFag==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Tigers] Happy Birthday?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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According to Hemmings Motor News today is the day that Sunbeam debuted the
Tiger in 1964.

 

Thanks,

Joe Brown

Arlington, TX

B382000217
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From: "H. B. Elam" <harryb@elams.org>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 19:05:50 -0400
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger debut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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According to Bill Carroll in "Tiger An Exceptional Motorcar" page 46, the
debut was April 3 1964.  I have no personal knowledge. Several other
references confirm April but not a day.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 20 13:33:56 2013
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From: "rande" <rande@thecia.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 15:32:41 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers - Happy Birthday
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I, too, saw the Hemmings Daily blog note about April 18 and the Tiger.

I think Harry is on the money. I believe the first public showing of what the
official program called the Alpine 260 was April 4, 1964 at the New York International
Automobile Show at the Coliseum, if you take into account previews by the press.


The only other official date I can find is March 1964 when news sources received
official photos from the Rootes Motors Ltd Public Relations department.
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 18:34:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kevin Meek <kevin_meek@yahoo.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Free Tiger newsletters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Spanning approximately 1995-2005, lots of good tech tips and Tiger
information.  Free to whomever picks them up first in Santa Cruz, California
(or will consider shipping USPS at your cost).  Thanks!

Can't remember if
this is permissible, but here's an image link:
http://s1164.photobucket.com/albums/q562/kevnmeek/?action=view$t=2012-04-1511
4401.jpg

Email me back if interested!
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 20:10:46 -0700
To: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I went to drive the Tiger yesterday.  The clutch pedal went to the floor.  The
clutch has always been very hard.  I bled the clutch with fresh new fluid.
And it seemed to improve a bit, and I could actually press the clutch pedal
all the way down - which I don't know if I could before because of how stiff
it was.  But now conveniently, coincidentally, or perhaps because I put in
fresh fluid, it failed.  All the fluid drained out of the system through the
slave.

I will say that when I poured in the new fluid, it was clearly of a different
density.  When I first poured it in and looked into the top of the master, I
could see that the fluids were separated into two layers.  I used Dot 3/4.  I
admittedly don't know what was in there.  I've heard that synthetic in old
hydraulics can mess up the rubber.  But, I'm not sure that I've heard it goes
the other way.  Also, they were both clear.  Neither was purple.  I thought
that synthetics are purple so you know the difference.

WIth that all said, I have two questions: (1) did I mess this up by using the
wrong fluid? (2) Given how hard the clutch pedal has always been to press,
would it be a mistake to put in a 7/5" slave?  It has a 7/8" slave now and a
5/8" master.

Thanks for any help.
_______________________________________________

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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 20:19:04 -0700
To: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I just did a search in the archives and found that my dad did put DOT 5 in the
clutch.

Ok, so what do I do?  Rebuild the master and clutch?
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 21 21:33:54 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <1FE5A356-8C71-43BF-8773-C9ED80CE2E87@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 20:32:32 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
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>>> Ok, so what do I do?  Rebuild the master and clutch?<<<
  I think so. That way you will know the rubber is fresh. There is also 
another way of looking at this.  Better the clutch only now, than the whole 
brake system getting DOT 3/4 later. Imaging the agony of that! Now you know 
better and will do the right thing. At least you got the lesser of the hard 
lessons.

Tom 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 21 21:41:16 2013
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 20:39:57 -0700
References: <1FE5A356-8C71-43BF-8773-C9ED80CE2E87@gmail.com>
	<D36DA38AF1A74700BE7B9D46E1F65C18@optiplex3301>
To: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the comments.  On the plus side, that old post of my dad's that I
found where he said he used DOT 5, he said that he had not done it to the
brakes yet.  I thought DOT 5 was supposed to be purple to avoid this.  Is that
not true?  Can it be clear too?





>>>> Ok, so what do I do?  Rebuild the master and clutch?<<<
> I think so. That way you will know the rubber is fresh. There is also
another way of looking at this.  Better the clutch only now, than the whole
brake system getting DOT 3/4 later. Imaging the agony of that! Now you know
better and will do the right thing. At least you got the lesser of the hard
lessons.
>
> Tom _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 21 21:45:17 2013
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 03:41:42 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

My DOT5 was yellow.  


----- Original Message -----
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 03:39:57 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!

Thanks for the comments.  On the plus side, that old post of my dad's that I
found where he said he used DOT 5, he said that he had not done it to the
brakes yet.  I thought DOT 5 was supposed to be purple to avoid this.  Is that
not true?  Can it be clear too?





>>>> Ok, so what do I do?  Rebuild the master and clutch?<<<
> I think so. That way you will know the rubber is fresh. There is also
another way of looking at this.  Better the clutch only now, than the whole
brake system getting DOT 3/4 later. Imaging the agony of that! Now you know
better and will do the right thing. At least you got the lesser of the hard
lessons.
>
> Tom _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 20:48:09 -0700
References: <34296212.1142406.1366602102837.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
To: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks.  Now I have to wonder if he rebuilt the brakes too.

I suspect he did not.  I guess if I put in DOT 3/4 and one of the liquids
floats like it did in the clutch, I'll know.  Maybe I should pull some out
into a vile, and try it separately.  But, for all I know, different brands, or
DOT 3 versus DOT 3/4 will do that too.

I'm marking my clutch caps with a permanent marker for the next guy!


On Apr 21, 2013, at 8:41 PM, Gary Winblad wrote:

> My DOT5 was yellow.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
> To: Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net>
> Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
> Sent: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 03:39:57 -0000 (UTC)
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
>
> Thanks for the comments.  On the plus side, that old post of my dad's that
I
> found where he said he used DOT 5, he said that he had not done it to the
> brakes yet.  I thought DOT 5 was supposed to be purple to avoid this.  Is
that
> not true?  Can it be clear too?
>
>
>
>
>
> >>>> Ok, so what do I do?  Rebuild the master and clutch?<<<
> > I think so. That way you will know the rubber is fresh. There is also
> another way of looking at this.  Better the clutch only now, than the whole
> brake system getting DOT 3/4 later. Imaging the agony of that! Now you know
> better and will do the right thing. At least you got the lesser of the hard
> lessons.
> >
> > Tom _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 21 22:31:43 2013
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	Sun, 21 Apr 2013 23:30:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <34296212.1142406.1366602102837.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8C50A592-985C-444C-AA11-822EA7C67AEB@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 21:30:21 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

>>>I'm marking my clutch caps with a permanent marker for the next guy!<<<

Let's hope that "next guy" is one of your children. :-)
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 05:22:43 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Jay Laifman'" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, "'Tiger's Den'"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 07:21:13 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay
	I have seen purple and yellow tint in Dot 5.  I think that is a
requirement for Dot 5 to have a tint.

	Yes, you need to go through the Master, the down pipe and the Slave
to clear all the contaminated fluid from the system.  I'm not sure if
alcohol will flush out Dot 5; it works with the glycol based brake fluids.
You may need to use lacquer thinner or BrakeKleen to flush the Dot 5.
Inspect all the parts and rebuild.  

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 11:19 PM
To: Tiger's Den
Subject: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!


I just did a search in the archives and found that my dad did put DOT 5 in
the clutch.

Ok, so what do I do?  Rebuild the master and clutch?
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 08:25:41 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 10:24:20 -0400 (EDT)
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, jay.laifman@gmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Not sure if this has been mentioned, but for most hydraulic clutch systems, 
 DOT 3 is your best bet...at least according to the transmission experts I 
know.  The thinking is DOT 3 has less of the additives which will permeate 
the o-rings  and cause them to swell. Once they swell, they are likely to 
roll in  friction and wear more quickly. 
 
 
 
In a message dated 4/22/2013 4:21:56 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
rfraser@bluefrog.com writes:

Jay
I have seen purple and yellow tint in Dot  5.  I think that is a
requirement for Dot 5 to have a  tint.

Yes, you need to go through the Master, the down  pipe and the Slave
to clear all the contaminated fluid from the  system.  I'm not sure if
alcohol will flush out Dot 5; it works with  the glycol based brake fluids.
You may need to use lacquer thinner or  BrakeKleen to flush the Dot 5.
Inspect all the parts and rebuild.   

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From:  tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On  Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 11:19 PM
To: Tiger's  Den
Subject: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!


I just did a search  in the archives and found that my dad did put DOT 5 in
the  clutch.

Ok, so what do I do?  Rebuild the master and  clutch?
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 09:08:43 2013
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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: "rfraser@bluefrog.com" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>, 'Jay Laifman'
	<jay.laifman@gmail.com>, 'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
Thread-Index: AQHOPwg0MWkWbiqE40qMCpLNsJMXY5jiW/yA///VZXA=
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 15:06:57 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay,
I went through some of my SAE journals a while back to look for the real
skinny on brake fluids. DOT 5 is silicon based and is not recommended for open
systems like those found on vintage cars. The DOT 5 is non-hygroscopic so it
will not absorb moisture but since our systems are not sealed moisture gets in
and it collects in the low spots of the system, this will cause piston
corrosion in calipers and scuffing of the piston rubber in slaves. This may be
why your Dad did the clutch but not the brake system. A DOT 5 fluid is also
more compressible than a DOT 4 so the pedal will feel spongier. The only real
advantage to DOT 5 is that it will not ruin paint when (notice I didn't say
"if") the master/slave cylinder fails. Even though it is now a different
formula than of old, good old DOT 4 Castrol GTA/LMA it still glycol-based and
will help keep the rubber piston swollen.

The DOT 5.1 is a glycol-based fluid so it is also hydroscopic, its main claim
to fame is that it is a thinner viscosity than DOT 4 which is needed for some
ABS systems to be able to rapid cycle in cold climates. Not many OEM's use DOT
5, I can only find reference to Harley.

		Dry Boiling Point 		Wet Boiling Point (3% water)
DOT 3 			401F 				284F
DOT 4 			446F 				311F
DOT 5 			500F 				356F
DOT 5.1 		518F 				375F

The "wet" boiling point is when the fluid has absorbed 3% water by volume, a
feat that can be accomplished on our cars over one typical damp winter storage
period here in the Midwest. Water can diffuse in through the rubber brake
hoses as well. Most of my racer buddies have tried DOT 5 and have gone back to
the racing-spec DOT 3 fluids that actually have higher dry boiling points than
DOT 5, they prefer the harder pedal feel.

I know many Tiger folks that have used DOT 5 without a problem, so it's up to
you. In your climate moisture is not a big problem, I suggest you stay with
the DOT 4 Castrol GTA/LMA for the brake system and flush it every other year.
I made a power bleeder by finding an old master cylinder cap and fitting an
air hose chuck. Fill the reservoir and use about 10 psi to push out all the
old fluid. I can power bleed the brakes in about 1/2 hour.

As for your clutch, you will need to rebuild the slave for sure, so the
easiest way out is to do that and stay with the DOT 5, just don't mix the two
fluids up! Make sure you check inside the firewall for signs of the leaks from
either MC as well.

Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 11:19 PM
To: Tiger's Den
Subject: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!


I just did a search in the archives and found that my dad did put DOT 5 in the
clutch.

Ok, so what do I do?  Rebuild the master and clutch?
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 10:12:54 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 12:03:17 -0400 (EDT)
To: mark.rense@ge.com, rfraser@bluefrog.com, jay.laifman@gmail.com,
	tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The additives in Castrol LMA supposedly soften the o-rings (even EPDM) and  
allow them to roll. DOT 3 is commonly considered a better bet...at least 
that's  what we run in the Formula Fords and other race cars using the Girling 
MC.
 
 
In a message dated 4/22/2013 8:08:01 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
mark.rense@ge.com writes:

Jay,
I went through some of my SAE journals a while back to look  for the real
skinny on brake fluids. DOT 5 is silicon based and is not  recommended for 
open
systems like those found on vintage cars. The DOT 5 is  non-hygroscopic so 
it
will not absorb moisture but since our systems are  not sealed moisture 
gets in
and it collects in the low spots of the system,  this will cause piston
corrosion in calipers and scuffing of the piston  rubber in slaves. This 
may be
why your Dad did the clutch but not the brake  system. A DOT 5 fluid is also
more compressible than a DOT 4 so the pedal  will feel spongier. The only 
real
advantage to DOT 5 is that it will not  ruin paint when (notice I didn't say
"if") the master/slave cylinder fails.  Even though it is now a different
formula than of old, good old DOT 4  Castrol GTA/LMA it still glycol-based 
and
will help keep the rubber piston  swollen.

The DOT 5.1 is a glycol-based fluid so it is also hydroscopic,  its main 
claim
to fame is that it is a thinner viscosity than DOT 4 which  is needed for 
some
ABS systems to be able to rapid cycle in cold climates.  Not many OEM's use 
DOT
5, I can only find reference to  Harley.

Dry Boiling Point      Wet Boiling Point (3% water)
DOT 3        401F                284F
DOT 4             446F    311F
DOT 5      500F              356F
DOT 5.1         518F      375F

The "wet" boiling point  is when the fluid has absorbed 3% water by volume, 
a
feat that can be  accomplished on our cars over one typical damp winter 
storage
period here  in the Midwest. Water can diffuse in through the rubber brake
hoses as  well. Most of my racer buddies have tried DOT 5 and have gone 
back to
the  racing-spec DOT 3 fluids that actually have higher dry boiling points  
than
DOT 5, they prefer the harder pedal feel.

I know many Tiger  folks that have used DOT 5 without a problem, so it's up 
to
you. In your  climate moisture is not a big problem, I suggest you stay with
the DOT 4  Castrol GTA/LMA for the brake system and flush it every other 
year.
I made  a power bleeder by finding an old master cylinder cap and fitting an
air  hose chuck. Fill the reservoir and use about 10 psi to push out all the
old  fluid. I can power bleed the brakes in about 1/2 hour.

As for your  clutch, you will need to rebuild the slave for sure, so the
easiest way out  is to do that and stay with the DOT 5, just don't mix the 
two
fluids up!  Make sure you check inside the firewall for signs of the leaks 
from
either  MC as well.

Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From:  tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On  Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 11:19 PM
To: Tiger's  Den
Subject: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!


I just did a search  in the archives and found that my dad did put DOT 5 in 
 the
clutch.

Ok, so what do I do?  Rebuild the master and  clutch?
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 10:18:39 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 12:14:46 -0400 (EDT)
To: MWood24020@aol.com, mark.rense@ge.com, rfraser@bluefrog.com,
	jay.laifman@gmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Should have been clear...I'm talking about clutch MC, only. The possibility 
 of the o-ring rolling isn't an issue in the shorter throw of the brake MC.
 
 
In a message dated 4/22/2013 9:12:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
MWood24020@aol.com writes:

The  additives in Castrol LMA supposedly soften the o-rings (even EPDM) and 
  
allow them to roll. DOT 3 is commonly considered a better bet...at least  
that's  what we run in the Formula Fords and other race cars using  the 
Girling 
MC.


In a message dated 4/22/2013 8:08:01 A.M.  Pacific Daylight Time,  
mark.rense@ge.com writes:

Jay,
I  went through some of my SAE journals a while back to look  for the  real
skinny on brake fluids. DOT 5 is silicon based and is not   recommended for 
open
systems like those found on vintage cars. The DOT  5 is  non-hygroscopic so 
it
will not absorb moisture but since our  systems are  not sealed moisture 
gets in
and it collects in the  low spots of the system,  this will cause piston
corrosion in calipers  and scuffing of the piston  rubber in slaves. This 
may be
why your  Dad did the clutch but not the brake  system. A DOT 5 fluid is  
also
more compressible than a DOT 4 so the pedal  will feel spongier.  The only 
real
advantage to DOT 5 is that it will not  ruin paint  when (notice I didn't 
say
"if") the master/slave cylinder fails.  Even  though it is now a different
formula than of old, good old DOT 4   Castrol GTA/LMA it still glycol-based 
and
will help keep the rubber  piston  swollen.

The DOT 5.1 is a glycol-based fluid so it is also  hydroscopic,  its main 
claim
to fame is that it is a thinner  viscosity than DOT 4 which  is needed for 
some
ABS systems to be  able to rapid cycle in cold climates.  Not many OEM's 
use 
DOT
5, I  can only find reference to  Harley.

Dry Boiling Point     Wet Boiling Point (3% water)
DOT 3         401F                284F
DOT  4             446F    311F
DOT  5      500F               356F
DOT 5.1         518F       375F

The "wet" boiling point  is when the fluid has absorbed 3%  water by 
volume, 
a
feat that can be  accomplished on our cars over  one typical damp winter 
storage
period here  in the Midwest. Water  can diffuse in through the rubber brake
hoses as  well. Most of my  racer buddies have tried DOT 5 and have gone 
back to
the   racing-spec DOT 3 fluids that actually have higher dry boiling points 
  
than
DOT 5, they prefer the harder pedal feel.

I know many  Tiger  folks that have used DOT 5 without a problem, so it's 
up  
to
you. In your  climate moisture is not a big problem, I suggest  you stay 
with
the DOT 4  Castrol GTA/LMA for the brake system and  flush it every other 
year.
I made  a power bleeder by finding an  old master cylinder cap and fitting 
an
air  hose chuck. Fill the  reservoir and use about 10 psi to push out all 
the
old  fluid. I can  power bleed the brakes in about 1/2 hour.

As for your  clutch, you  will need to rebuild the slave for sure, so the
easiest way out  is to  do that and stay with the DOT 5, just don't mix the 
two
fluids  up!  Make sure you check inside the firewall for signs of the leaks 
 
from
either  MC as well.

Bugz

-----Original  Message-----
From:  tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On  Behalf Of Jay  Laifman
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 11:19 PM
To: Tiger's   Den
Subject: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!


I just did a  search  in the archives and found that my dad did put DOT 5 
in  
the
clutch.

Ok, so what do I do?  Rebuild the master  and   clutch?
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 10:25:05 2013
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References: <f8f7e.6a06ef7b.3ea6b945@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 09:21:14 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: MWood24020@aol.com
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I just spoke to Rick and ordered rebuild kits.  He said that the supplier
of the rebuild kits is very clear, in writing, that their rubber will
withstand any of the fluids.  He said that the supplier of the actual
masters and slaves is not so clear.

Rick also said that he sells LMA, but has a hard time getting it himself.

I also mentioned my idea of going with a larger slave or smaller master to
make the effort a little less.  He said that usually since most of the
Tigers disengage at the bottom, and mine disengages up at the top, I might
be able to make that swap.  Except, he said the slave is already pretty big
and the master pretty small, and he does not know of available
alternatives.  I don't know what kind of clutch is in there.  I think Dan
Walters was the last one in there ages ago, but doesn't remember.

Jay


On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 9:03 AM, <MWood24020@aol.com> wrote:

> **
> The additives in Castrol LMA supposedly soften the o-rings (even EPDM) and
> allow them to roll. DOT 3 is commonly considered a better bet...at least
> that's what we run in the Formula Fords and other race cars using the
> Girling MC.
>
>  In a message dated 4/22/2013 8:08:01 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> mark.rense@ge.com writes:
>
> Jay,
> I went through some of my SAE journals a while back to look for the real
> skinny on brake fluids. DOT 5 is silicon based and is not recommended for
> open
> systems like those found on vintage cars. The DOT 5 is non-hygroscopic so
> it
> will not absorb moisture but since our systems are not sealed moisture
> gets in
> and it collects in the low spots of the system, this will cause piston
> corrosion in calipers and scuffing of the piston rubber in slaves. This
> may be
> why your Dad did the clutch but not the brake system. A DOT 5 fluid is also
> more compressible than a DOT 4 so the pedal will feel spongier. The only
> real
> advantage to DOT 5 is that it will not ruin paint when (notice I didn't say
> "if") the master/slave cylinder fails. Even though it is now a different
> formula than of old, good old DOT 4 Castrol GTA/LMA it still glycol-based
> and
> will help keep the rubber piston swollen.
>
> The DOT 5.1 is a glycol-based fluid so it is also hydroscopic, its main
> claim
> to fame is that it is a thinner viscosity than DOT 4 which is needed for
> some
> ABS systems to be able to rapid cycle in cold climates. Not many OEM's use
> DOT
> 5, I can only find reference to Harley.
>
>         Dry Boiling Point         Wet Boiling Point (3% water)
> DOT 3             401F                 284F
> DOT 4             446F                 311F
> DOT 5             500F                 356F
> DOT 5.1         518F                 375F
>
> The "wet" boiling point is when the fluid has absorbed 3% water by volume,
> a
> feat that can be accomplished on our cars over one typical damp winter
> storage
> period here in the Midwest. Water can diffuse in through the rubber brake
> hoses as well. Most of my racer buddies have tried DOT 5 and have gone
> back to
> the racing-spec DOT 3 fluids that actually have higher dry boiling points
> than
> DOT 5, they prefer the harder pedal feel.
>
> I know many Tiger folks that have used DOT 5 without a problem, so it's up
> to
> you. In your climate moisture is not a big problem, I suggest you stay with
> the DOT 4 Castrol GTA/LMA for the brake system and flush it every other
> year.
> I made a power bleeder by finding an old master cylinder cap and fitting an
> air hose chuck. Fill the reservoir and use about 10 psi to push out all the
> old fluid. I can power bleed the brakes in about 1/2 hour.
>
> As for your clutch, you will need to rebuild the slave for sure, so the
> easiest way out is to do that and stay with the DOT 5, just don't mix the
> two
> fluids up! Make sure you check inside the firewall for signs of the leaks
> from
> either MC as well.
>
> Bugz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
> Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 11:19 PM
> To: Tiger's Den
> Subject: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
>
>
> I just did a search in the archives and found that my dad did put DOT 5 in
> the
> clutch.
>
> Ok, so what do I do?  Rebuild the master and clutch?
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mwood24020@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 11:45:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Cc: Jim Walter <masterjw57@yahoo.com>
Subject: [Tigers] Oil Guage Line Routing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

What is the correct oil guage line routing?
 
Thanks
Joel Martin
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 20:10:10 2013
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From: "Curt Bowland" <cbowland@msn.com>
To: "tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 21:08:56 -0500
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Subject: [Tigers] fluids
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I go through a lot of Castrol LMA each year, cheap by comparison with
rebuilding wheel cylinders and calipers. as well as clutch master and slave.

An old racers trick is to use something like a syringe and "float" a layer of
silicone fluid on top of the LMA in the master. This will reduce the largest
available surface area from hydroscopic moisture adsorption.

Curt in Chicago
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 22:12:52 -0700
To: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Update on DOT 3 - 5
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I should have spent more time in the archives.  I found plenty of information,
including from my dad.

DOT 5 is no more or less "compressible" than DOT 3 or 4.

Silicone fluid does not absorb water.  So the same water that gets into the
system accumulates at low spots and therefore makes the greatest chance of
rust at that spot.  This is of course an issue in the brake system, whereas
the clutch's lowest point is aluminum!  But clutch or brakes, that pocket of
water in DOT 5 is worse for spongy brakes when it heats up in there and the
water steams, and not so bad when it is spread out in DOT4.  DOT 4 accumulates
some sort of brown gunk, needing flushing every couple of years (which really
isn't a problem) but DOT 5 does not.

Apparently that is why my dad put in an accordion moisture block on top of the
reservoir.  So, the fluid level can go down (like when you press the clutch)
without sucking in moisture through the hole.  Kind of the best of both
worlds

There are opinions back and forth about what fluids swell the rubber now and
which ones don't. Some suggest to soak the rubber in DOT 4 before installing
in a silicone system.  But, then there are people who say the fluids have to
be 100% separated and cleaned out.  So, I don't understand this contradiction.
There are people who say it is ok to go from silicone to DOT 4, by just
bleeding a couple times, but not the other way around.

I have two rebuild kits and DOT4 LMA on the way from Rick.  But, with this all
in mind, I think I'm likely to follow what my dad did, and put the silicone
DOT 5 back in.  But, I'm going to mark the top of the cap for my kids!
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Update on DOT 3 - 5
Thread-Index: AQHOP+FAq3mqq50v6EiQtwKqeLlWM5jjzZaA
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 13:36:22 +0000
References: <0663F443-EB18-4E94-B94B-CD841F63C40B@gmail.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Update on DOT 3 - 5
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Silicone fluid is not inherently more compressible than DOT 3 or 4, but it
retains trapped air for much longer and silicone fluid can also absorb air.
That means if you shake the container or pour it such that air is entrapped in
the fluid, it can stay there in a way that is not visible and then when you
bleed the system, it will end up inside the lines and give you a spongy pedal
feel.

http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/Brake_Fluid/page4.html

Theo

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 07:24:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

All
 
The starter bolt to body\frame ground strap and battery to body ground strap
in trunk - these should be 'braided' cables as opposed to cable with rubber
covering?  Any particular 'correct' type of connectors should be used?
 
The battery itself should be group 27?  Any particular brands accepted to be
'correct'?
 
Thanks
Joel Martin
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, Tiger List Serve
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 14:29:35 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The connectors on the end of the braid are a large stamped lug, not at all
like stuff that's commercially available today (at least not at your local Pep
Boys) but you could make one up out of some 3/32 flat steel stock if you're
handy with a vise and hammer. I can send you a picture... it may be that Rick
has the cable reproduced.

Theo



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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 09:44:51 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 11:39:34 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel
	The ground strap and battery negative terminal to ground are both
braided with HD connectors.

Battery is a group 27 - the original battery was Lucas with 6 screw in cell
covers with vent nipples and a vent tube.

I have an Interstate battery in my Tiger.  You would have to be going for
totally bone stock to want a Lucas battery and they are expensive - $200 -
$300 range for a repro AGM battery.

http://antiqueautobattery.com/batteries.html
This web site has those batteries and they also list cables for the Sunbeam
but I'm not sure there is a picture for them.

British Wire Inc lists the braided cable but I don't know what they have for
connectors.
www.Britishwire.com


Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 10:24 AM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap


All

The starter bolt to body\frame ground strap and battery to body ground strap
in trunk - these should be 'braided' cables as opposed to cable with rubber
covering?  Any particular 'correct' type of connectors should be used?

The battery itself should be group 27?  Any particular brands accepted to be
'correct'?

Thanks
Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe:
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6267 - Release Date: 04/23/13
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 09:48:47 2013
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "rfraser@bluefrog.com" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>, 'Joel Martin'
	<jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, 'Tiger List Serve' <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
Thread-Index: AQHOQC6a0eN2HlRBiUSSs/yGzsuKN5jkRPYA//+uKOA=
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 15:47:29 +0000
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	<4A6FBE04C9C940338ACFCF7B184FBF8A@ronpc1>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Closest for the lugs are going to be this one or the 3/8" equivalent.
http://www.britishwiring.com/5-16-Flag-Type-Ring-Terminal-37-16-p/c292.htm

Note the website name - it's not britishwire.com

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
> Sent: April 23, 2013 9:40 AM
> To: 'Joel Martin'; 'Tiger List Serve'
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground
> Strap
>
> Joel
>       The ground strap and battery negative terminal to ground are both
> braided with HD connectors.
>
> Battery is a group 27 - the original battery was Lucas with 6 screw in
> cell covers with vent nipples and a vent tube.
>
> I have an Interstate battery in my Tiger.  You would have to be going
> for totally bone stock to want a Lucas battery and they are expensive -
> $200 -
> $300 range for a repro AGM battery.
>
> http://antiqueautobattery.com/batteries.html
> This web site has those batteries and they also list cables for the
> Sunbeam but I'm not sure there is a picture for them.
>
> British Wire Inc lists the braided cable but I don't know what they
> have for connectors.
> www.Britishwire.com
>
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Joel Martin
> Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 10:24 AM
> To: Tiger List Serve
> Subject: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground
> Strap
>
>
> All
>
> The starter bolt to body\frame ground strap and battery to body ground
> strap in trunk - these should be 'braided' cables as opposed to cable
> with rubber covering?  Any particular 'correct' type of connectors
> should be used?
>
> The battery itself should be group 27?  Any particular brands accepted
> to be 'correct'?
>
> Thanks
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6267 - Release Date:
> 04/23/13 _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
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>
>


________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 12:06:00 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 11:00:06 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Expandable seal for Clutch Master Cylinder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

As we've been posting, moisture is the enemy to the hydraulics.  My dad did
have an expandable insert in there.  But it was ripped and useless now, and
I have no idea where he got it.

I found this one:
http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/582-505.pdf

I don't know yet for sure if it is the right size.

But, I note that it has a slit in it, and they say that you have to be able
to equalize pressure and must have a hole.  That seems odd to me.  I would
think that if you have an expandable insert, as the level dropped, the
insert would drop with it, and pull in air into its inside.  So it would
equalize the pressure just fine - assuming it could expand freely.  Am I
missing something?

Anyone have a source for a better one?  I called Pegasus and they didn't
have anything.  I've emailed Rick, and we'll see what he says.

Jay
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 11:13:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: 'Tiger List Serve' <Tigers@autox.team.net>, rfraser@bluefrog.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

# of strands seems to be a factor - not sure for the cable itself.  Cable
color should be silver? The part Theo references looks to be a 5/16" flat type
ring terminal - 3 would be needed?  BON indicates neg was a 14" woven cable
with a soldered right angle battery end - any correct type here?
 
Batteries I have found.
Interstate MTP27 @ $129
MotorCraft Max BXT27B with negative post on right $110 - cannot find any
pictures and ford dealers are no help.  Appears terminals should be on right
with pos toward rear fender and neg toward rear of trunk closest to passenger
side fender not middle of trunk?  Is this correct?  For correctness sake is
MotorCraft accepted in place of Lucas or is Lucas only points correct?
 
Thanks
Joel Martin

--- On Tue, 4/23/13, Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:


From: Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, April 23, 2013, 11:39 AM


Joel
    The ground strap and battery negative terminal to ground are both
braided with HD connectors.

Battery is a group 27 - the original battery was Lucas with 6 screw in cell
covers with vent nipples and a vent tube.

I have an Interstate battery in my Tiger.  You would have to be going for
totally bone stock to want a Lucas battery and they are expensive - $200 -
$300 range for a repro AGM battery.

http://antiqueautobattery.com/batteries.html
This web site has those batteries and they also list cables for the Sunbeam
but I'm not sure there is a picture for them.

British Wire Inc lists the braided cable but I don't know what they have for
connectors.
www.Britishwire.com


Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 10:24 AM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap


All

The starter bolt to body\frame ground strap and battery to body ground strap
in trunk - these should be 'braided' cables as opposed to cable with rubber
covering?  Any particular 'correct' type of connectors should be used?

The battery itself should be group 27?  Any particular brands accepted to be
'correct'?

Thanks
Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6267 - Release Date: 04/23/13
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 12:33:26 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 11:30:12 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Moisture Barrier
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Here is what my dad had in there:

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p542/MASTER-CYLINDER-MOISTURE-BARRIER-(SMALL)/product_info.html

So it may still be out there.

Jay
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 13:25:08 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Jay Laifman'" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, "'Tiger's Den'"
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 15:23:28 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5AUOCY2/Wnb6P8RK6ydVheiHF6hwABwAUg
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Moisture Barrier
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Jay
	I thought CAT had them in their catalog.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 2:30 PM
To: Tiger's Den
Subject: [Tigers] Moisture Barrier


Here is what my dad had in there:

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p542/MASTER-CYLINDER-MOISTURE-BARRIER-(SMA
LL)/product_info.html

So it may still be out there.

Jay
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6267 - Release Date: 04/23/13
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 13:34:27 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 15:28:06 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5ATkY3zYvZ1sLRRrWAPGJY9+jxgAACdfWw
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel
    If your building a 100 point dead stock Tiger; then you need a Lucas
battery with the breather hose.
If your not building a 100 point Tiger put in the best battery available to
you.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: Joel Martin [mailto:jmartiniii@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 2:14 PM
To: 'Tiger List Serve'; rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: Theo Smit - Tiger Owner
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap




# of strands seems to be a factor - not sure for the cable itself.  Cable
color should be silver? The part Theo references looks to be a 5/16" flat
type ring terminal - 3 would be needed?  BON indicates neg was a 14" woven
cable with a soldered right angle battery end - any correct type here?

Batteries I have found.
Interstate MTP27 @ $129
MotorCraft Max BXT27B with negative post on right $110 - cannot find any
pictures and ford dealers are no help.  Appears terminals should be on right
with pos toward rear fender and neg toward rear of trunk closest to
passenger side fender not middle of trunk?  Is this correct?  For
correctness sake is MotorCraft accepted in place of Lucas or is Lucas only
points correct?

Thanks
Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:43:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: 'Tiger List Serve' <Tigers@autox.team.net>, rfraser@bluefrog.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ron\All
 
No 100 point car here, nor want to be but if I must buy - get correct or as
close to correct as dollars will allow - buy correct if at all possible. The
Lucas battery dollars does not allow.
 
I did not know if MotorCraft batteries are acceptable to judges just as
MotorCraft oil filters are.  If so then I will buy MotorCraft as opposed to
Interstate which I have used most of my life with little to no complaints.  I
have a Interstate (1) 12 V battery in my 73 MGB, original owner, as opposed to
2 - 6 volt Lucas batteries.
 
As always, seriously, thanks for your input.  I always value every ones
thoughts\opinions.
 
Joel Martin
 
 
 
 


--- On Tue, 4/23/13, Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:


From: Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Cc: "'Theo Smit - Tiger Owner'" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 23, 2013, 3:28 PM




Joel
    If your building a 100 point dead stock Tiger; then you need a Lucas
battery with the breather hose.
If your not building a 100 point Tiger put in the best battery available to
you.
 
Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: Joel Martin [mailto:jmartiniii@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 2:14 PM
To: 'Tiger List Serve'; rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: Theo Smit - Tiger Owner
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap











# of strands seems to be a factor - not sure for the cable itself.  Cable
color should be silver? The part Theo references looks to be a 5/16" flat type
ring terminal - 3 would be needed?  BON indicates neg was a 14" woven cable
with a soldered right angle battery end - any correct type here?
 
Batteries I have found.
Interstate MTP27 @ $129
MotorCraft Max BXT27B with negative post on right $110 - cannot find any
pictures and ford dealers are no help.  Appears terminals should be on right
with pos toward rear fender and neg toward rear of trunk closest to passenger
side fender not middle of trunk?  Is this correct?  For correctness sake is
MotorCraft accepted in place of Lucas or is Lucas only points correct?
 
Thanks
Joel Martin



 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 13:55:37 2013
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, 'Tiger List Serve'
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>, "rfraser@bluefrog.com" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
Thread-Index: AQHOQE5G0eN2HlRBiUSSs/yGzsuKN5jkNsmQ
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:52:55 +0000
References: <1366740817.20245.YahooMailClassic@web164706.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
x-originating-ip: [10.50.8.1]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

For the ground straps you want to have equivalent copper area to probably #2
cable. For the engine side strap, the chassis end uses a 5/16 screw and the
other side (going to a starter bolt) will be 3/8". For the battery strap,
5/16" lug to the chassis should be more than sufficient... a good connection
there requires that you strip the chassis to bare metal in that area. I don't
recall offhand what the "right" battery terminal is.

Theo

From: Joel Martin [mailto:jmartiniii@yahoo.com]
Sent: April 23, 2013 12:14 PM
To: 'Tiger List Serve'; rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: Smit, Theo
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Ground Strap and Battery to body Negative Ground Strap


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 15:10:36 2013
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From: "rande" <rande@thecia.net>
To: jmartiniii@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:09:14 -0400
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger - battery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel,

I don't know if you're a member, but let me pass something along from the latest
CAT newsletter:

"During the month of May, California Association of Tiger Owners can receive
a significant discount on a new Optima battery purchased at   www.optimabatteries.com
   Please e-mail
optimajim@gmail.com for your one-time use coupon code or call
Optima Jim at (414)469-2869."

I don't know if this source ships from one central warehouse. My experience
with battery sales is that for hazmat reasons, the vendor usually contracts
with their local warehouse near your business or home to arrange shipment. Interstate,
for example has two shipping warehouses near Boston, and is the OEM replacement
supplier for, I think, VW/Audi and Honda/Acura.

For Optima, I'm not familiar with their use, but let's ask other Tiger folks
for their feedback, assuming they're priced competitively against Interstate
taking into effect the coupon.

If I'm divulging a state secret here, take it up with me next month in Albany
or in June in Large Bear.

Rande Bellman
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 15:12:48 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 15:14:01 -0600
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I believe the yahoo, btinternet, sbcglobal issue is resolved.
I'll keep a close eye on list mail to check.

mjb.
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 14:47:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul R Sheahan <sunbeamtiger@prodigy.net>
To: jmartiniii@yahoo.com, rande@thecia.net
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger - battery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

rande,
     I sent him an email about the Optima batteries.  He wrote me back and
said the promotion starts in May and he doesn't have the coupon codes yet but
would put me on the list and would send them when they are available.
     By the way, I have been using the same Optima battery since 1999.  Great
product.
Paul
Paul R Sheahan
(239)732-1704 Office
(704)564-3831 Cell

--- On Tue, 4/23/13, rande <rande@thecia.net> wrote:


From: rande <rande@thecia.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger - battery
To: jmartiniii@yahoo.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, April 23, 2013, 5:09 PM


Joel,

I don't know if you're a member, but let me pass something along from the
latest
CAT newsletter:

"During the month of May, California Association of Tiger Owners can receive
a significant discount on a new Optima battery purchased
at   www.optimabatteries.com
   Please e-mail
optimajim@gmail.com for your one-time use coupon code or call
Optima Jim at (414)469-2869."

I don't know if this source ships from one central warehouse. My experience
with battery sales is that for hazmat reasons, the vendor usually contracts
with their local warehouse near your business or home to arrange shipment.
Interstate,
for example has two shipping warehouses near Boston, and is the OEM
replacement
supplier for, I think, VW/Audi and Honda/Acura.

For Optima, I'm not familiar with their use, but let's ask other Tiger folks
for their feedback, assuming they're priced competitively against Interstate
taking into effect the coupon.

If I'm divulging a state secret here, take it up with me next month in Albany
or in June in Large Bear.

Rande Bellman
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sunbeamtiger@prodigy.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 17:10:54 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 18:58:41 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Optima Batteries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

When I bought my Tiger, way back in the late seventies, it had already had
a hard life. Besides body damage on the passenger side there was a huge
hole in the boot floor, the result of a battery spill. It took decades
before I had the wherewithal to have the body repaired. One decision -
after the boot floor went in an Optima battery found its way onto the
battery base pad. No more spills, if I can believe the hype; gel batteries
don't do that. I've seen them mounted on the side in newer cars where space
is at a premium.

I hope I never have to find out if the battery is really "spill proof." I
can say that the Optima I have holds a charge over long periods of sitting,
and has had no problem getting the engine running and the lights on.

Tom
'67 mark 2
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 17:29:11 2013
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References: <CAE3_YO-0C3xBjYkBj=_XPnkiAQjBXp3iDt0rb-r1CL_4guaYrg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:27:22 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Optima Batteries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

While I don't disagree that I've heard the same, I've also heard that the
quality went down for awhile there, which may or may not have been fixed.

In my experience, the Optima batteries do weird things on the chargers.  I
don't know if that means there is something already wrong with the battery,
and it's too late.  Or, if that means they have issues with the chargers.


On Tue, Apr 23, 2013 at 3:58 PM, Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com> wrote:

> When I bought my Tiger, way back in the late seventies, it had already had
> a hard life. Besides body damage on the passenger side there was a huge
> hole in the boot floor, the result of a battery spill. It took decades
> before I had the wherewithal to have the body repaired. One decision -
> after the boot floor went in an Optima battery found its way onto the
> battery base pad. No more spills, if I can believe the hype; gel batteries
> don't do that. I've seen them mounted on the side in newer cars where space
> is at a premium.
>
> I hope I never have to find out if the battery is really "spill proof." I
> can say that the Optima I have holds a charge over long periods of sitting,
> and has had no problem getting the engine running and the lights on.
>
> Tom
> '67 mark 2
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:39:40 -0400
From: Chris Thompson <chris@cthompson.net>
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To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
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Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Optima Batteries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Optima and Interstate batteries are apples and oranges.

I've had an Optima in my Tiger for over ten years, as well as in all my 
other classic cars.  Not only do they not out-gas or spill causing 
corrosion, they tolerate a deep discharge much better....

Very non-stock however, and a good bit pricey.  But my local Advance 
Auto will match any price I find on the interweb....

Chris
B382000331

On 4/23/2013 7:27 PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
> While I don't disagree that I've heard the same, I've also heard that the
> quality went down for awhile there, which may or may not have been fixed.
>
> In my experience, the Optima batteries do weird things on the chargers.  I
> don't know if that means there is something already wrong with the battery,
> and it's too late.  Or, if that means they have issues with the chargers.
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 23, 2013 at 3:58 PM, Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> When I bought my Tiger, way back in the late seventies, it had already had
>> a hard life. Besides body damage on the passenger side there was a huge
>> hole in the boot floor, the result of a battery spill. It took decades
>> before I had the wherewithal to have the body repaired. One decision -
>> after the boot floor went in an Optima battery found its way onto the
>> battery base pad. No more spills, if I can believe the hype; gel batteries
>> don't do that. I've seen them mounted on the side in newer cars where space
>> is at a premium.
>>
>> I hope I never have to find out if the battery is really "spill proof." I
>> can say that the Optima I have holds a charge over long periods of sitting,
>> and has had no problem getting the engine running and the lights on.
>>
>> Tom
>> '67 mark 2
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 18:23:30 2013
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 20:17:27 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Optima Batteries
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Any specific way to charge them if they get low?
 
 
In a message dated 4/23/2013 4:40:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
chris@cthompson.net writes:

Optima  and Interstate batteries are apples and oranges.

I've had an Optima in  my Tiger for over ten years, as well as in all my 
other classic  cars.  Not only do they not out-gas or spill causing 
corrosion, they  tolerate a deep discharge much better....

Very non-stock however, and a  good bit pricey.  But my local Advance 
Auto will match any price I  find on the interweb....

Chris
B382000331

On 4/23/2013 7:27  PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
> While I don't disagree that I've heard the  same, I've also heard that the
> quality went down for awhile there,  which may or may not have been fixed.
>
> In my experience, the  Optima batteries do weird things on the chargers.  
I
> don't know  if that means there is something already wrong with the 
battery,
> and  it's too late.  Or, if that means they have issues with the  
chargers.
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 23, 2013 at 3:58 PM, Tom Parker  <tkparker1941@gmail.com> 
wrote:
>
>> When I bought my  Tiger, way back in the late seventies, it had already 
had
>> a hard  life. Besides body damage on the passenger side there was a huge
>>  hole in the boot floor, the result of a battery spill. It took  decades
>> before I had the wherewithal to have the body repaired.  One decision -
>> after the boot floor went in an Optima battery  found its way onto the
>> battery base pad. No more spills, if I can  believe the hype; gel 
batteries
>> don't do that. I've seen them  mounted on the side in newer cars where 
space
>> is at a  premium.
>>
>> I hope I never have to find out if the  battery is really "spill proof." 
I
>> can say that the Optima I have  holds a charge over long periods of 
sitting,
>> and has had no  problem getting the engine running and the lights on.
>>
>>  Tom
>> '67 mark  2
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 18:32:51 2013
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 00:31:26 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Optima Batteries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Optimas may work ok in an old car like a Tiger, but..
I put one in my 1999 Corvette that always has a small drain from the
computers and stuff.  I went on vacation for 2 weeks and when I got
back not only was the Optima dead but it permanently ruined it.
I was a red top, yeah I should have bought a yellow top.. or disconnected it..
Considering it cost 2-3X what a normal battery cost, I was not impressed!
So what it you can mount it on its side, are you really going to do that?
Gary


----- Original Message -----
From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 00:17:27 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Optima Batteries

Any specific way to charge them if they get low?
 
 
In a message dated 4/23/2013 4:40:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
chris@cthompson.net writes:

Optima  and Interstate batteries are apples and oranges.

I've had an Optima in  my Tiger for over ten years, as well as in all my 
other classic  cars.  Not only do they not out-gas or spill causing 
corrosion, they  tolerate a deep discharge much better....

Very non-stock however, and a  good bit pricey.  But my local Advance 
Auto will match any price I  find on the interweb....

Chris
B382000331

On 4/23/2013 7:27  PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
> While I don't disagree that I've heard the  same, I've also heard that the
> quality went down for awhile there,  which may or may not have been fixed.
>
> In my experience, the  Optima batteries do weird things on the chargers.  
I
> don't know  if that means there is something already wrong with the 
battery,
> and  it's too late.  Or, if that means they have issues with the  
chargers.
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 23, 2013 at 3:58 PM, Tom Parker   
wrote:
>
>> When I bought my  Tiger, way back in the late seventies, it had already 
had
>> a hard  life. Besides body damage on the passenger side there was a huge
>>  hole in the boot floor, the result of a battery spill. It took  decades
>> before I had the wherewithal to have the body repaired.  One decision -
>> after the boot floor went in an Optima battery  found its way onto the
>> battery base pad. No more spills, if I can  believe the hype; gel 
batteries
>> don't do that. I've seen them  mounted on the side in newer cars where 
space
>> is at a  premium.
>>
>> I hope I never have to find out if the  battery is really "spill proof." 
I
>> can say that the Optima I have  holds a charge over long periods of 
sitting,
>> and has had no  problem getting the engine running and the lights on.
>>
>>  Tom
>> '67 mark  2
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 18:38:50 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:33:53 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Optima Batteries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, now that I think of it, when I said that they do weird things on
chargers, I'd only have them on a charger if I had not been using the car
for a while.  So, perhaps it goes to the same issue.  Once they get to a
certain level, they don't seem to want to recharge like non-Optima
batteries.


On Tue, Apr 23, 2013 at 5:31 PM, Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>wrote:

> Optimas may work ok in an old car like a Tiger, but..
> I put one in my 1999 Corvette that always has a small drain from the
> computers and stuff.  I went on vacation for 2 weeks and when I got
> back not only was the Optima dead but it permanently ruined it.
> I was a red top, yeah I should have bought a yellow top.. or disconnected
> it..
> Considering it cost 2-3X what a normal battery cost, I was not impressed!
> So what it you can mount it on its side, are you really going to do that?
> Gary
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 00:17:27 -0000 (UTC)
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Optima Batteries
>
> Any specific way to charge them if they get low?
>
>
> In a message dated 4/23/2013 4:40:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> chris@cthompson.net writes:
>
> Optima  and Interstate batteries are apples and oranges.
>
> I've had an Optima in  my Tiger for over ten years, as well as in all my
> other classic  cars.  Not only do they not out-gas or spill causing
> corrosion, they  tolerate a deep discharge much better....
>
> Very non-stock however, and a  good bit pricey.  But my local Advance
> Auto will match any price I  find on the interweb....
>
> Chris
> B382000331
>
> On 4/23/2013 7:27  PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
> > While I don't disagree that I've heard the  same, I've also heard that
> the
> > quality went down for awhile there,  which may or may not have been
> fixed.
> >
> > In my experience, the  Optima batteries do weird things on the chargers.
> I
> > don't know  if that means there is something already wrong with the
> battery,
> > and  it's too late.  Or, if that means they have issues with the
> chargers.
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Apr 23, 2013 at 3:58 PM, Tom Parker
> wrote:
> >
> >> When I bought my  Tiger, way back in the late seventies, it had already
> had
> >> a hard  life. Besides body damage on the passenger side there was a huge
> >>  hole in the boot floor, the result of a battery spill. It took  decades
> >> before I had the wherewithal to have the body repaired.  One decision -
> >> after the boot floor went in an Optima battery  found its way onto the
> >> battery base pad. No more spills, if I can  believe the hype; gel
> batteries
> >> don't do that. I've seen them  mounted on the side in newer cars where
> space
> >> is at a  premium.
> >>
> >> I hope I never have to find out if the  battery is really "spill proof."
> I
> >> can say that the Optima I have  holds a charge over long periods of
> sitting,
> >> and has had no  problem getting the engine running and the lights on.
> >>
> >>  Tom
> >> '67 mark  2
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aaaglasss@aol.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 18:39:46 2013
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	<9DDBBBF789B34A4EBB0FEC50BF8F7D31@ronpc1>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:35:56 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Moisture Barrier
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I went to the CAT website and the list shows that the one for clutches is
NLA.  But, the list looks old.  Perhaps it is not a good representation of
what is available now.

Jay


On Tue, Apr 23, 2013 at 12:23 PM, Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Jay
>         I thought CAT had them in their catalog.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
> Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 2:30 PM
> To: Tiger's Den
> Subject: [Tigers] Moisture Barrier
>
>
> Here is what my dad had in there:
>
>
> http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p542/MASTER-CYLINDER-MOISTURE-BARRIER-(SMA
> LL)/product_info.html
>
> So it may still be out there.
>
> Jay
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
>
>
>
>
> -----
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> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 18:58:24 2013
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	Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:57:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <b330a.4db611f5.3ea87e97@aol.com>
	<465418584.1224135.1366763486750.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:57:07 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Optima Batteries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have 8+ year old "hand me down" batteries on $5 (when on sale) Harbor 
Freight float chargers. Rarely are the cars started but these old batteries 
have yet to fail me.   Lead acid batteries (gel or liquid) are like house 
plants. Occasionally they need to be watered (charged) otherwise they slip 
off to a slow death. The float charger is like dip irrigation.

Tom 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 19:15:45 2013
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	Tue, 23 Apr 2013 20:14:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Buck Trippel" <BuckTrippel@Verizon.net>
To: <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>,	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <b330a.4db611f5.3ea87e97@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 18:14:16 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Optima Batteries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I've never had a problem recharging "low" Optimas in the ten plus years I've 
been using them with the old transformer type chargers. But the new smart 
electronic chargers sometimes balk. I've heard of people who get around this 
by charging two batteries at the same time with the second in parallel.

As far as the Optima offer to CAT members, Optima wants to promote their 
batteries while protecting their distributors. This offer was not made to 
the general public. For this reason, CAT did not post the offer on its web 
site but only printed it in the recent membership newsletter. I believe that 
the plan is for CAT to is furnish a membership list to Optima in case 
membership comes into question.

bt



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Optima Batteries


> Any specific way to charge them if they get low?
>
>
> In a message dated 4/23/2013 4:40:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> chris@cthompson.net writes:
>
> Optima  and Interstate batteries are apples and oranges.
>
> I've had an Optima in  my Tiger for over ten years, as well as in all my
> other classic  cars.  Not only do they not out-gas or spill causing
> corrosion, they  tolerate a deep discharge much better....
>
> Very non-stock however, and a  good bit pricey.  But my local Advance
> Auto will match any price I  find on the interweb....
>
> Chris
> B382000331
>
> On 4/23/2013 7:27  PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
>> While I don't disagree that I've heard the  same, I've also heard that 
>> the
>> quality went down for awhile there,  which may or may not have been 
>> fixed.
>>
>> In my experience, the  Optima batteries do weird things on the chargers.
> I
>> don't know  if that means there is something already wrong with the
> battery,
>> and  it's too late.  Or, if that means they have issues with the
> chargers.
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 23, 2013 at 3:58 PM, Tom Parker  <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>>
>>> When I bought my  Tiger, way back in the late seventies, it had already
> had
>>> a hard  life. Besides body damage on the passenger side there was a huge
>>>  hole in the boot floor, the result of a battery spill. It took  decades
>>> before I had the wherewithal to have the body repaired.  One decision -
>>> after the boot floor went in an Optima battery  found its way onto the
>>> battery base pad. No more spills, if I can  believe the hype; gel
> batteries
>>> don't do that. I've seen them  mounted on the side in newer cars where
> space
>>> is at a  premium.
>>>
>>> I hope I never have to find out if the  battery is really "spill proof."
> I
>>> can say that the Optima I have  holds a charge over long periods of
> sitting,
>>> and has had no  problem getting the engine running and the lights on.
>>>
>>>  Tom
>>> '67 mark  2
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aaaglasss@aol.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 19:25:55 2013
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From: "Buck Trippel" <BuckTrippel@Verizon.net>
To: "Jay Laifman" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>,	<rfraser@bluefrog.com>
References: <CAAjp1z7iowj3N2tpVDrwfCWhHvirot4h4MqPwdEuLVM_1=PyKQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 18:20:46 -0700
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Moisture Barrier
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay,

Good seeing you at Woodley!

I run them in all of our Tigers. I don't know if CAT currently has them in 
stock.  In the past I've purchased them from CAT, from Ray Hulbert 
Motorsports or from Pegasus Racing.

good luck,

Buck Trippel

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jay Laifman" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Cc: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Moisture Barrier


>I went to the CAT website and the list shows that the one for clutches is
> NLA.  But, the list looks old.  Perhaps it is not a good representation of
> what is available now.
>
> Jay
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 19:30:38 2013
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From: "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 21:29:23 -0400
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Moisture Barrier
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CAT does sell these and they are in stock.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 11:30 AM
To: Tiger's Den
Subject: [Tigers] Moisture Barrier

Here is what my dad had in there:

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p542/MASTER-CYLINDER-MOISTURE-BARRIER-(SMAL
L)/product_info.html

So it may still be out there.

Jay
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 19:30:58 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 21:29:39 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Charging Optima Batteries
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/517984-how-recharge-deeply-discharged-optima-battery.html

Seems to me I read something about this before I bought my Optima.
According to the article any battery discharged below @ 10.5 volts is
subject to recharge issues. The solution: parallel charging.

They're used in new cars where space is an issue.

Tom
'67 mark 2
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 21:27:43 2013
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From: "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com>
To: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 23:24:28 -0400
Thread-Topic: C.A.T. Autocross This Saturday!
Thread-Index: Ac5AUOFpOB2H7JdXRU2O/sq6zNhTlAASPWiQ
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Subject: [Tigers] C.A.T. Autocross This Saturday!
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For anyone interested in a fun, non-competitive driving experience, please
come out to the C.A.T. Autocross this Saturday, April 27th.  It is being held
at the Long Beach City College stadium.  The stadium is at the intersection of
Carson Street and Clark Avenue, one block east of Lakewood Boulevard.  Once
there turn south on Clark Avenue and look for the, well stadium.  It is right
there.  For those that have visited the Long Beach High Performance Swap Meet,
we are at the same location.

We have a two tiered pricing system: $35.00 per person gets you four runs ~OR~
$50.00 for UNLIMITED RUNS!  Within reason, of course.  Do not expect to go out
and run hot laps for an hour while everyone wants to go home!

All drivers must have a California driver's license, and be at least 18 years
of age. This is a work/run event. All drivers must work the course one run
group session for each session driven.

All participants must attend the driver's meeting.  The driver's meeting is at
9:00 am. If you would like to help set up, you're welcome to come early.

Since this is a CAT event, we prefer Sunbeam Tigers and Alpines.  However, if
you can't bring your Sunbeam, or you're a CAT member bringing a friend along
with a different make of car, that's fine as long as it's a small sports or
compact car.  No large (3,500 lb. plus) sedans or high-horse power sports cars
(late model Vettes, Vipers, Shelbys etc.) With heavy/high-horse power cars
there is the potential of damaging the parking lot surface.  If that happens
we will lose the college parking lot as a venue to autocross. The Autocross
Event Committee has the last say-so on what can or cannot run.  Examples:  no
go-carts, no 4-wheel drive monster trucks, no motorcycles, no heavy or high
horse-power cars.  If you have any questions about eligibility of your car,
please contact one of the members of the Autocross Event Committee, listed
below--before you show up and are disappointed for not being able to run.

All cars must pass technical inspection and be in sound running order.  Tech
will check the following items:  secured battery, good brake-pedal pressure,
good and secure seatbelts, minimum steering wheel play, proper suspension
play, and removal of all loose items in the car.  There must be two
throttle-return springs for cars with carburetors.  We will also be looking at
your wheels.  If we feel you are putting high stress loads on your stock
Sunbeam steel wheels, or 45-year-old eight-spoke American magnesiums, we may
advise you to make a change to a more reliable aluminum wheel.  All drivers
and passengers MUST wear a helmet.  There will be a few loaner-helmets
available. You may run without a roll bar.

There will be no trophies or points given at this event. Passengers are
welcome, but must be 18 years of age. Driver-instructors will be available for
those new to auto-crossing.  We want beginners.  Think of this as a school,
practice, learning environment. There is no food service at the site, so you
may want to bring a snack and beverages.  It can get hot on the asphalt
surface, hydrate!

This is a rare opportunity to learn the limitations of your car in a legal,
safe environment. Please don't miss this event!

If you have any questions, please feel free to call me at: 562-587-1657, or
e-mail a response and I will get back to you as soon as possible!

Thanks!

Jere Teepen
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From: "H. B. Elam" <harryb@elams.org>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:49:30 -0400
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Brake/Clutch moisture barrier
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay, others,
  For both master cylinders, for the past 15 years or so, I have been using
small plastic bags. I don't split and some extra shows around each perimeter.
Certainly not 100% but it works. Anyone who has had to clean up wheel cylinder
and slave oxidation would suggest something as simple and cheap as this
solution. Jay, I don't put a slit in them but do leave a bit of slack before
tightening the caps.

H B Elam
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 04:59:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: arado7@sbcglobal.net
To: "H. B. Elam" <harryb@elams.org>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake/Clutch moisture barrier
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I use dot 5 silicone brake fluid.     .   I need no moisture barrier.      try
it......    gary,      B9472283    since  1986....

--- On Wed, 4/24/13, H. B. Elam <harryb@elams.org> wrote:

From: H. B. Elam <harryb@elams.org>
Subject: [Tigers] Brake/Clutch moisture barrier
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 24, 2013, 11:49 AM

Jay, others,
  For both master cylinders, for the past 15 years or so, I have been using
small plastic bags. I don't split and some extra shows around each perimeter.
Certainly not 100% but it works. Anyone who has had to clean up wheel
cylinder
and slave oxidation would suggest something as simple and cheap as this
solution. Jay, I don't put a slit in them but do leave a bit of slack before
tightening the caps.

H B Elam
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 24 06:44:40 2013
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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 05:43:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Oil Filter Adapter Color
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

All
 
The Ford 90 degree oil filter adapter will not work with SS headers without
about 50%dippling and\or grinding down the corner of the adapter of the first
header tube and then using a shorty oil filter, which I do not like to use.
 
So, back to the stock oil filter setup, which was my preference but I was
swayed by local influences.
 
My question is - the stock adapter that bolts to the block and the 2 hoses
coming out of it - is it suppose to be engine color or natural or what?
 
Thanks
Joel Martin
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 24 15:29:48 2013
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From: "csx2282" <csx2282@sonic.net>
To: "tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 14:15:31 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] My Opima Experience
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

My car is only driven a few hundred miles a year, so it spends a lot of time
sitting in the garage.  Over the decades I've gone through lots of batteries.
Typically they lasted maybe two to three years.  After reading some rave
reviews about Optima batteries on a couple of car lists, I decided to give one
a try.  I don't recall how many years ago that was, but it was at least ten.
I was immediately impressed by the greatly increased starter cranking speed.
This has been true every time I driven the car since.  One day a couple of
years after purchasing the battery, I tried starting the car and nada!  No
solenoid clicks, nothing.  The instruments were dead as were the lights.  I
checked the voltage across the battery terminals and it was well under 5V.  I
disconnected it and re-measured.  Only a very slight increase.  Next I checked
the resistance between the positive cable terminal and ground.  It was a few
ohms.  After a bit of detective work, I traced the problem to the voltage
regulator.  I had replaced the original electrical-mechanical regulator with a
solid state unit a few years prior to this.  The solid state one had developed
a short which had caused the battery to drain.  In hopes the battery was
salvageable, I posted my experience on a local car list asking for opinions on
this.  The unanimous consensus was that the battery was a goner.  Don't even
try recharging it because I'd probably destroy my charger. Toss it and get a
replacement.  But I had this trickle charger I had bought for some
ridiculously low price at a White Front store back in the early '70s, so I
figured, what the heck if I zapped it.  I connected it up to the battery and
let it set for a few hours.  When I checked, the charger was too hot to touch,
but the red charging light on it was still lit.  I checked the battery voltage
and it was up a few volts, so I just let it go.  It was a cyclic thing over
several days.  The charger had a circuit breaker that tripped a few times.  I
just let it cool off, reset the breaker then reconnected it.  Each time the
battery voltage was up 2 or 3 volts, and held steady while the charger was
disconnected.  Finally the charger did die, but by then the battery voltage
was well above, 11 volts so I reconnected the car's terminal, since I had
already installed a new electrical-mechanical voltage regulator.  I was able
to get the car started, so I drove it around for a while to allow the
alternator to fully charge the battery.  When I finally parked, the battery
voltage was well over 12 volts.  That was at least 8 years ago and since then
the battery has been just like the day I first installed it.

My Optima is a Red Top and was purchased at a local Pep Boys auto Parts store.
Since my car has no accessories, it's perfectly adequate.  If you have A/C and
or lots of accessories, I would recommend the higher capacity Yellow Top.  I
have also heard in recent years that Optima's quality has declined, but I
can't personally address that.

Roland
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 25 11:17:58 2013
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 17:16:14 +0000 (UTC)
From: George Re <mgman71@comcast.net>
To: Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1366910174;
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	6txg1qxJOCVuA==
Subject: [Tigers] Water Sensor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys. My question this time is where do you put the temp. sensor when you do not have a water plate under the carb?. I know this has happened to some one else before and there must be a a different way to route the hoses. If anyone knows please let me know. 

Thanks Again 
George Re 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 25 11:32:26 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'George Re'" <mgman71@comcast.net>, "'Tigers'"
  <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 13:30:45 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5B2KNfAoDakIcAQ32PoeykE+/jiAAACkAw
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8626,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-04-25_05:2013-04-25,2013-04-25,1970-01-01
	signatures=0
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	engine=7.0.1-1211240000 definitions=main-1304250145
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Water Sensor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

George
	Do you have the MK I temp sender housing with 3 hose ports?

I ran a hose from the MK I temp sender housing around and below the carb to
the "T" fitting at the heater core hose.

Original Spacer plate part # - C2AZ-9A589-H in case your looking for one of
these spacers.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of George Re
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 1:16 PM
To: Tigers
Subject: [Tigers] Water Sensor


Hi Guys. My question this time is where do you put the temp. sensor when you
do not have a water plate under the carb?. I know this has happened to some
one else before and there must be a a different way to route the hoses. If
anyone knows please let me know.

Thanks Again
George Re
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6272 - Release Date: 04/25/13
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 26 20:47:11 2013
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 19:35:53 -0700
To: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Clutch rebuild kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I got the rebuild kits for the master and slave from Rick.  There is an extra
rubber piece in the master kit that I don't know where it goes.  There was the
dust cap.  There was the seal that goes into the piston.  There is the small
seal that goes under the plastic part at the end of the rod attached to the
piston.  I got all those.  But there is one more rubber ring.  It is bevelled.
I have no idea where it goes.  It's not on the car, and I don't recall one
like it on previous masters that I've rebuilt.  It is about big enough to go
around the end of the plunger, between the plunger and the plate that holds
the plunger in.  But, that  doesn't really make sense - unless just one more
possible dust seal.

I have a picture I can email if it would help.

Thanks,
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 11:15:23 2013
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Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 10:07:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Today's RM auction w/ 289 Cobras
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Can anyone with access to the Shelby Registry or other Cobra insights, pass on
insider info more than is in the auction details on CSX 2121 or CSX 2332. A
friend is looking. I told him save a few $100k and buy my Tiger, but he wants
a 289 Cobra.  ;)
 

Stephen Waybright

585-905-5842 (m) | 281-259-3899 (h)
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 11:34:57 2013
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References: <1367082437.78515.YahooMailNeo@web121905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 13:33:23 -0400
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
To: Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Today's RM auction w/ 289 Cobras
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

More like save 500-700k in the market today for a well sorted 289 . Slab
sides are esp hot right now.
I have a friend with a black factory equipped 289 w/2x4 slab side for sale,
concours condition.

Michael Shortt
On Apr 27, 2013 1:14 PM, "Stephen Waybright" <gswaybright@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Can anyone with access to the Shelby Registry or other Cobra insights,
> pass on
> insider info more than is in the auction details on CSX 2121 or CSX 2332. A
> friend is looking. I told him save a few $100k and buy my Tiger, but he
> wants
> a 289 Cobra.  ;)
>
>
> Stephen Waybright
>
> 585-905-5842 (m) | 281-259-3899 (h)
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 13:48:12 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Jay Laifman'" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, "'Tiger's Den'"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 12:16:07 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5C8VrnVX9gLR7DQwmxE+ThU6MQ0AAcNcMg
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	definitions=2013-04-27_06:2013-04-26,2013-04-27,1970-01-01
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch rebuild kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay
	The first possibility is that the rebuild kit is becoming more
generic and contains extra parts.

2nd is the rubber ring big enough that it might be the seal for the
reservoir cap.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2013 10:36 PM
To: Tiger's Den
Subject: [Tigers] Clutch rebuild kit


I got the rebuild kits for the master and slave from Rick.  There is an
extra rubber piece in the master kit that I don't know where it goes.  There
was the dust cap.  There was the seal that goes into the piston.  There is
the small seal that goes under the plastic part at the end of the rod
attached to the piston.  I got all those.  But there is one more rubber
ring.  It is bevelled. I have no idea where it goes.  It's not on the car,
and I don't recall one like it on previous masters that I've rebuilt.  It is
about big enough to go around the end of the plunger, between the plunger
and the plate that holds the plunger in.  But, that  doesn't really make
sense - unless just one more possible dust seal.

I have a picture I can email if it would help.

Thanks,
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 14:19:59 2013
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Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 15:17:39 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, 'Jay Laifman' <jay.laifman@gmail.com>,
	'Tiger's Den'	 <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch rebuild kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay. not a saying this is one of those times but often one kit may fit more than one application and contain parts not used on all cars. I wouldn't say this is the case but a call to Rick will tell you for certain.Cheers ,  TtT!!!
Sent from Huawei Mobile

 Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:

>Jay
>	The first possibility is that the rebuild kit is becoming more
>generic and contains extra parts.
>
>2nd is the rubber ring big enough that it might be the seal for the
>reservoir cap.
>
>Ron Fraser
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
>Sent: Friday, April 26, 2013 10:36 PM
>To: Tiger's Den
>Subject: [Tigers] Clutch rebuild kit
>
>
>I got the rebuild kits for the master and slave from Rick.  There is an
>extra rubber piece in the master kit that I don't know where it goes.  There
>was the dust cap.  There was the seal that goes into the piston.  There is
>the small seal that goes under the plastic part at the end of the rod
>attached to the piston.  I got all those.  But there is one more rubber
>ring.  It is bevelled. I have no idea where it goes.  It's not on the car,
>and I don't recall one like it on previous masters that I've rebuilt.  It is
>about big enough to go around the end of the plunger, between the plunger
>and the plate that holds the plunger in.  But, that  doesn't really make
>sense - unless just one more possible dust seal.
>
>I have a picture I can email if it would help.
>
>Thanks,
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 15:50:46 2013
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References: <517C24C8.1070607@bradakis.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 17:42:53 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: Alpines <alpines@autox.team.net>, Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nice cars!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

interesting - where is that?  there is an MG ZTT 260 V8 there by the look
of it.  one of 200 wagons made.  I have one.  but as far as i'm aware there
is only one in the US.


On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 3:19 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> http://www.team.net/forums/**viewtopic.php?f=17&t=151<http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=151>
>
> mjb.
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 16:04:51 2013
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nice cars!
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Owain Lloyd wrote:
> interesting - where is that?  there is an MG ZTT 260 V8 there by the 
> look of it.  one of 200 wagons made.  I have one.  but as far as i'm 
> aware there is only one in the US.
>

All I know is that it is somewhere in Australia, a local Sunbeam owner 
forwarded it to me.


mjb.
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 18:02:04 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Tigers] Trunk seal install
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I have a trunk seal to install. I've had it  hanging around for 10-15  yrs. 
in a box. Still soft, but I'm sure natural aging  has  affected the 
surface.  The questions are:  what should be done to prep  the rubber?  What should 
be done to prep the metal of the car?  What  is the best brand of adhesive 
on the market?
Thanks,
Mark L
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 10:05:42 +1000
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: Alpines <alpines@autox.team.net>, Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nice cars!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Mark,

Can I ask who sent you the photo? That was the british and european show in
Melbourne at flemington last weekend.

On 28 April 2013 07:57, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
>> interesting - where is that?  there is an MG ZTT 260 V8 there by the look
>> of it.  one of 200 wagons made.  I have one.  but as far as i'm aware there
>> is only one in the US.
>>
>>
> All I know is that it is somewhere in Australia, a local Sunbeam owner
> forwarded it to me.
>
>
> mjb.
>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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>
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 20:56:57 2013
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From: "Will Seay" <wseay@embarqmail.com>
To: "'Jay Laifman'" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, "'Tiger's Den'"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <B573382D-9FA5-4C18-8530-E79A1D658FAE@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 22:50:05 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Clutch rebuild kit
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Jay,

The shop manual has an exploded view of clutch master and slave cylinders, pp C7
in my copy.  Maybe you can find where your mystery part goes from that.

Will Seay 382001570
wseay@embarqmail.com
"I think not therefore I am not" (anon)

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2013 10:36 PM
To: Tiger's Den
Subject: [Tigers] Clutch rebuild kit

I got the rebuild kits for the master and slave from Rick.  There is an extra
rubber piece in the master kit that I don't know where it goes.  There was the
dust cap.  There was the seal that goes into the piston.  There is the small
seal that goes under the plastic part at the end of the rod attached to the
piston.  I got all those.  But there is one more rubber ring.  It is bevelled.
I have no idea where it goes.  It's not on the car, and I don't recall one like
it on previous masters that I've rebuilt.  It is about big enough to go around
the end of the plunger, between the plunger and the plate that holds the plunger
in.  But, that  doesn't really make sense - unless just one more possible dust
seal.

I have a picture I can email if it would help.

Thanks,
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 21:30:33 2013
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 13:28:46 +1000
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: rande@thecia.net
Cc: alpines@autox.team.net, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Auto Show - where is that?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Rande,

The show was at the Flemington racecourse in North Melbourne, just outside
the Melbourne CBD (maybe 5 mins), the show had just over 1100 cars turn
up.. and yes the Silver Tiger was mine (as is the SII Alpine with black
hardtop and rootes fog lights)

There are a bunch of pictures from the show I posted on the CAT forum
http://www.catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?t=2083

I was surprised to see that picture Mark linked to.. its a photo i took on
the day and must have been lifted from the CAT forum,..I had to be quite
"creative" to get the picture... it involved a big green rubbish bin as a
step ladder.. then on to the roof of a portable toilet block.....  had to
be very careful... lots of flex and didnt want to make an unexpected entry
into the stalls below.


On 28 April 2013 08:39, rande <rande@thecia.net> wrote:

> Owain,
>
> Mark already mentioned that it's an Australian show, and I see a banner
> from
> the Sunbeam Car Club of Victoria, so that may nail down where. If it is
> Victoria,
> it's north of Melbourne, and you can Google Map that to get the general
> area.
>
>
> I noticed a shiny silver Sunbeam roadster in the photo, and if it's close
> to
> Melbourne, I wonder if that is Michael King's ride?
>
> One thing that I was glad to see is a healthy number of Alpines at this
> show.
> I wouldn't mind seeing more of them at the shows and Uniteds here in the
> States.
>
>
> Rande Bellman
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 04:52:33 2013
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From: "denis mercier" <denismercier@telvic.net>
To: <michael@michaelshortt.com>, "Stephen Waybright" <gswaybright@yahoo.com>
References: <1367082437.78515.YahooMailNeo@web121905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CAEWtxWoAiks+pWM2Xh2Y1mAJbw0XZL-dPnRs8yTyH7g9COHgAg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 06:50:26 -0400
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Today's RM auction w/ 289 Cobras
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys !
When i was at Auction America last march 23 at Fort Lauderdale there was a 
CSX4000 serie Cobra who was sold for 94500 plus 10% auction fee.
At the same place some years ago there was a 1964 Cobra 289 who was sold for 
around 585000.00 also a 1965 Cobra 427 sold for 795000.00
At that time Carol Shelby was still alive.......
Don't forget at Auction America last march 23 a Tiger MK1A was sold for 
56000.00 plus 10% auction fee = 61600.00
Denis.
B382000926LRXFE
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
To: "Stephen Waybright" <gswaybright@yahoo.com>
Cc: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Today's RM auction w/ 289 Cobras


> More like save 500-700k in the market today for a well sorted 289 . Slab
> sides are esp hot right now.
> I have a friend with a black factory equipped 289 w/2x4 slab side for 
> sale,
> concours condition.
>
> Michael Shortt
> On Apr 27, 2013 1:14 PM, "Stephen Waybright" <gswaybright@yahoo.com> 
> wrote:
>
>> Can anyone with access to the Shelby Registry or other Cobra insights,
>> pass on
>> insider info more than is in the auction details on CSX 2121 or CSX 2332. 
>> A
>> friend is looking. I told him save a few $100k and buy my Tiger, but he
>> wants
>> a 289 Cobra.  ;)
>>
>>
>> Stephen Waybright
>>
>> 585-905-5842 (m) | 281-259-3899 (h)
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: <CoolVT@aol.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 13:57:07 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5Dkx+dVNVH5v1zSQyymGK/3M9CFQApTGIg
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Trunk seal install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark
	If the seal has a good deal of mould release on it; that should be
cleaned off.
I don't think you need to do much else.   The seal just pushes onto the
trunk metal edge.

Find the middle of the seal; start that at the middle of the back edge of
the trunk and move around to the bottom of the trunk middle.  The ends
should be glued to each other.  You may have to cut the seal to fit.

I'm not sure that you need to glue the seal down but you might want to at
the ends.

Mine is just pushed on and only once in awhile do I need push one of the
ends back on.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of CoolVT@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 6:02 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Trunk seal install


I have a trunk seal to install. I've had it  hanging around for 10-15  yrs.
in a box. Still soft, but I'm sure natural aging  has  affected the
surface.  The questions are:  what should be done to prep  the rubber?  What
should
be done to prep the metal of the car?  What  is the best brand of adhesive
on the market?
Thanks,
Mark L
_______________________________________________

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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6275 - Release Date: 04/26/13
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 17:18:16 2013
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Subject: [Tigers] Lucas gremlins
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Car had been running fine...got in car turned the ignition key on, heard the
familiar fuel pump sound but noticed NO red ignition light on! Starts right up
but ammeter shows no charge?? Now here is the strange part...turn the lights
on while running and the tach goes dead, lights off and tach works!!!!! Has
petronics ignition not wired with the ballast, stock generator and voltage
regulator. Any ideas before rebuilding generator. I swapped voltage regulators
with no change.

Patrick Deschner
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 17:33:19 2013
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References: <8D0127D3075F8FF-187C-2929C@webmail-d232.sysops.aol.com>
From: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 17:27:45 -0600
To: "pldflyer@aol.com" <pldflyer@aol.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Lucas gremlins
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Your gauges are not grounded properly. So, When the lights are off the tach
uses the lightbulb filament as its ground path. When you turn on the lights,
that 'ground' goes to 12 volts and your tach has nothing left to run on.

So check the black daisy-chain wires on all the gauges. They have to actually
tie to the chassis somewhere. Then, check all your lighting grounds... Usually
the wiring gets gradually worse as an assembly, so if something in the wiring
goes awry it's a sign that you should check everything.
The non-charging is probably not directly related to the tach behavior...
Depending on when the gen was last rebuilt, it's probably time to check it
out.

Theo

On 2013-04-28, at 5:13 PM, pldflyer@aol.com wrote:

> Car had been running fine...got in car turned the ignition key on, heard
the
> familiar fuel pump sound but noticed NO red ignition light on! Starts right
up
> but ammeter shows no charge?? Now here is the strange part...turn the
lights
> on while running and the tach goes dead, lights off and tach works!!!!! Has
> petronics ignition not wired with the ballast, stock generator and voltage
> regulator. Any ideas before rebuilding generator. I swapped voltage
regulators
> with no change.
>
> Patrick Deschner
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit@shaw.ca
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 17:49:23 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: <pldflyer@aol.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 19:47:14 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5EZnWPq4gOzydYTtKlItfl0KZTjgAAwFgg
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Lucas gremlins
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Patrick
	Tap on the generator with the handle of a big screw driver or
lightly with a hammer.  If the ammeter shows charging the generator needs to
be rebuilt.  The brushes are hanging up and are probably nearly worn out.

	I had several problems with both the voltage regulator and generator
that is why I converted to an alternator system.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of pldflyer@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 7:14 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Lucas gremlins


Car had been running fine...got in car turned the ignition key on, heard the
familiar fuel pump sound but noticed NO red ignition light on! Starts right
up but ammeter shows no charge?? Now here is the strange part...turn the
lights on while running and the tach goes dead, lights off and tach
works!!!!! Has petronics ignition not wired with the ballast, stock
generator and voltage regulator. Any ideas before rebuilding generator. I
swapped voltage regulators with no change.

Patrick Deschner _______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6279 - Release Date: 04/28/13
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 12:36:20 2013
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 11:31:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Today's Issue - voltage Regulator mounting,
	solenoid & fuse box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

All
 
1966 MK 1 A - looks like the voltage regulator mounts to a plate on the
drivers side fendor by the bulkhead.  Appears mine is missing this plate.- was
this plate welded or bolted on?  Can anyone provide the 'dimenstions',
thickness - might have to make one and paint it body color or did the MK 1A
regulator bolt elsewhere?
 
What is the correct regulator - 6100047 or C2AF-10505-A - the options I have
found are FoMoCo with CATF or FoMoCo with C2DF or Autolite C5AF blue with
yellow for generator equiped cars?
 
What is the correct Solenoid C4AF-11450-A or -B?? bakelite finish with FoMoCo
logo and 2710966 stamping or FoMoCo logo and brown finish or FoMoCo black logo
and 2701966.
 
What is the correct Fuse unit 54038033 with steel connectors or 54038068 with
cooper connectors?
 
Thanks
Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 14:54:10 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 16:35:25 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5FCDKFq9zSjT2sRpG51QKGiXvhkQADapcg
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Today's Issue - voltage Regulator  mounting,
 solenoid & fuse box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel

Voltage Regulator Plate - I'm not sure that this part continued through all
of the Mk I build.
You should see 3 threaded inserts where the VR mounts - the VR can be
mounted there with 3 bolts.
I have no plate on my Mk Ia.

Voltage regulator - Shop Manual lists C2AF-10505-A - black cover with blue
printing.
This VR is available at the Vintage Mustang or Falcon catalogs as a complete
assembly or just the cover if you have a good VR.

The C5AF-10316-A voltage regulator is for an alternator

Starter relay - it is very possible that several variants of the Ford
starter relay were used on the Tiger.
Here is some starter relay history.

1960 - into 1965 relays have a brown bakelite housing, fine thread battery
cable lugs, all nuts which bear against the housing have an attached lock
washer with a beige color sealer beneath, bottom cover without vent and a
mounting bracket marked "2701966" at the leading edge.

The bracket is stamped in FoMoCo script on all relays until about Jan 1965
when Ford changed to the black housing and FoMoCo block style lettering.
For a period of months around the changeover brown and black relays were
assembled with script or block letter logo brackets.

The black FoMoCo relay was used until late in the 1966 model year when it
was replaced by the first Autolite relay.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2013 2:32 PM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Today's Issue - voltage Regulator mounting,solenoid & fuse
box


All

1966 MK 1 A - looks like the voltage regulator mounts to a plate on the
drivers side fendor by the bulkhead.  Appears mine is missing this plate.-
was this plate welded or bolted on?  Can anyone provide the 'dimenstions',
thickness - might have to make one and paint it body color or did the MK 1A
regulator bolt elsewhere?

What is the correct regulator - 6100047 or C2AF-10505-A - the options I have
found are FoMoCo with CATF or FoMoCo with C2DF or Autolite C5AF blue with
yellow for generator equiped cars?

What is the correct Solenoid C4AF-11450-A or -B?? bakelite finish with
FoMoCo logo and 2710966 stamping or FoMoCo logo and brown finish or FoMoCo
black logo and 2701966.

What is the correct Fuse unit 54038033 with steel connectors or 54038068
with cooper connectors?

Thanks
Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6282 - Release Date: 04/29/13
_______________________________________________

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From: "Will Seay" <wseay@embarqmail.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <1367260299.30352.YahooMailClassic@web164701.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 11:22:01 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5FCDMexDlE8hVRSvGz1GqmNLa+kwAq4yHg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Today's Issue - voltage Regulator mounting,
 solenoid & fuse box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel,

There is no mounting plate for the regulator.  It mounts directly to the wall of
the fender well.  Parts manual shows the C2AF-10505-A number.

Number on the starter solenoid for my 1A is 2710966.

Can't find a part number on my original fuse box.  Connectors on the box are
tinned brass, probably the same as your P/N 54038033.  The tinned brass may look
like steel but isn't steel.

Hope this helps..

Will Seay 382001570
wseay@embarqmail.com
"I think not therefore I am not" (anon)

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2013 2:32 PM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Today's Issue - voltage Regulator mounting, solenoid & fuse
box

All
 
1966 MK 1 A - looks like the voltage regulator mounts to a plate on the drivers
side fendor by the bulkhead.  Appears mine is missing this plate.- was this
plate welded or bolted on?  Can anyone provide the 'dimenstions', thickness -
might have to make one and paint it body color or did the MK 1A regulator bolt
elsewhere?
 
What is the correct regulator - 6100047 or C2AF-10505-A - the options I have
found are FoMoCo with CATF or FoMoCo with C2DF or Autolite C5AF blue with yellow
for generator equiped cars?
 
What is the correct Solenoid C4AF-11450-A or -B?? bakelite finish with FoMoCo
logo and 2710966 stamping or FoMoCo logo and brown finish or FoMoCo black logo
and 2701966.
 
What is the correct Fuse unit 54038033 with steel connectors or 54038068 with
cooper connectors?
 
Thanks
Joel Martin 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 30 12:03:29 2013
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From: Brent Edinger <banana111@msn.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 10:54:21 -0700
	FILETIME=[BED104D0:01CE45CB]
Subject: [Tigers] K&N Airfilter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Does any one have a part number for the K&N air filter with the flow though
top (X-Stream they call it)
that will fit the Tiger? I see it comes in all sorts of diameters and heights.
I'm running a performer 289
and Edelbrock carb and LAT hood.

   Thanks, Brent
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 30 13:51:45 2013
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Brent Edinger <banana111@msn.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] K&N Airfilter
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 19:42:47 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] K&N Airfilter
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

They only come in a circular form, so I think you'll have to go with the 9" or
11" one and then find a suitable filter and base to go with that. The K&N
filter that fits the Tiger air cleaner is originally intended for circular
applications (the K&N info lists it by internal and external diameter) and it
just happens to be flexible enough so that you can form it to the Tiger air
cleaner shape.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=E-2859

Still, an open-top air cleaner, even in 9", should be quite a bit more
effective in overall performance than the OEM filter assembly.
Theo


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From: "H. B. Elam" <harryb@elams.org>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 15:57:28 -0400
To: "Tigers@autox.team.net" <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] K&N for Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Brent,  The number on mine is A135A8. I use stock air cleaner Holly 4bbl

H B Elam B382000471
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] K&N Airfilter
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Here is the link to the K&N site and the X-stream tab http://www.knfilters.com/universal/x-stream.htm 






Looking at the installed height numbers, I think you will have a problem squeezing in one. I also have a LAT factory hood. With the stock filter and housing installed, I put lumps of modeling clay around the sides and front of the factory cleaner top. With a 1.5 inch high filter element, I did not find I had enough extra room. Depending on how high your manifold raises the carb, your results will vary from mine. 


Keep in mind that unless you are running with the rear of the hood raised, you will need to allow some space for the air to get into the top element. How much to deduct for that is your call. I considered the dropped base option to see if I could make that work. Fort some reason I thought I would not be able to do that, but do not recall why. 


What I ended up doing doing was making my on lid to use with the stock base and grafted on an 11 inch round X-stream top. When installed, I had about 1/2 inch clearance to the hood at the highest point. The 11 inch lid has an outer ring about 1 inch wide, so the air cleaner element itself is only about 9 inches in diameter. The center section for the hold down bolt is fairly large and also cuts down on the effective filter area. Just for cosmetics I did trim off the metal flange overhang at the front and back. You can do that without getting into the filtering element part. 


I am currently looking into trimming off the part of the 11 inch lid that overlays the top of the standard filter element. I do end up cutting int the element to do that. I have a plan on how to reseal that cut into part. The goal is to get that to sit down inside the standard element to gain some vertical space for a taller standard element. Since the top 3/8 inch or so of the standard element does not flow air (due to sealing material) I am not really loosing any filtering element area on the standard element. That all is a WIP. 


I do worry a bit about what would happen to my OEM fiberglass hood if I ever got a back fire through the top of the carb. I plan to some how epoxy on an aluminum plate over the top of the filter element in that area, just to be safe(r). 


If you learn of a more elegant solution, please be sure to let all of us know. 


Gene 


PS: Regarding Theo's speculation about a 9 inch lid possibly working. I have looked at that one as well. Keep in mind that the 1 inch flange cuts the actual element area down to only a 7 inch diameter circle. The center hold down section is about a 2 or 2.5 inch diameter circle. Not a lot of element area left. Probably be better off just getting a 1/2 inch taller round element. 








----- Original Message -----
From: "Brent Edinger" <banana111@msn.com> 
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2013 12:54:21 PM 
Subject: [Tigers] K&N Airfilter 

Does any one have a part number for the K&N air filter with the flow though 
top (X-Stream they call it) 
that will fit the Tiger? I see it comes in all sorts of diameters and heights. 
I'm running a performer 289 
and Edelbrock carb and LAT hood. 

Thanks, Brent 
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tigers@autox.team.net 

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