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Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 11:06:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Russ and Tammy C." <rtscolgan@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] $120,000.00 tiger?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Earlier this year I heard that a tiger went for 120 K at one of the auctions. 
Was it a regular tiger ? Are tigers  finally catching on?  Would appreciate
any come back on it.     Thank you.  Russ   rtscolgan@yahoo.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 15:45:57 2013
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 14:39:18 -0700
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To: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, the vast majority were correct.  Bad battery.  What a bummer.  Lots of
work for nothing.  At least I don't have to get in to replace the soleloid.
Too bad it's the most expensive part.  Nevertheless, THANKS to everyone!

On the flip side, I noticed that the Holley is dripping gas out the bottom,
from what looks like an accelerator pump.  Looks like the carb needs to come
out to service it.
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 18:21:04 2013
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 10:09:05 +1000
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net
  Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

IIRC CAT have a discount for members on the Optima batteries.. they are
great and dont leak!

On 3 June 2013 07:39, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

> Well, the vast majority were correct.  Bad battery.  What a bummer.  Lots
> of
> work for nothing.  At least I don't have to get in to replace the soleloid.
> Too bad it's the most expensive part.  Nevertheless, THANKS to everyone!
>
> On the flip side, I noticed that the Holley is dripping gas out the bottom,
> from what looks like an accelerator pump.  Looks like the carb needs to
> come
> out to service it.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 18:21:26 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Jay Laifman'" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, "'Smit, Theo'"
	<Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 20:11:09 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5f2ffI17T1NuS5SNKR/14K8Kd0WQAE9Jug
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay
	Glad you isolated the problem.

Accelerator pump leak now - it never ends but a good thing you saw it now.

Many times the accelerator pump cover screws have been over torqued and the
cover get warped; check it on a flat surface.

I had to put a cover in a press with some light pressure to flatten it.  You
can also use some 400 grit or finer sandpaper on a flat surface to make the
cover's gasket face flat.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2013 5:39 PM
To: Smit, Theo
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Den
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?


Well, the vast majority were correct.  Bad battery.  What a bummer.  Lots of
work for nothing.  At least I don't have to get in to replace the soleloid.
Too bad it's the most expensive part.  Nevertheless, THANKS to everyone!

On the flip side, I noticed that the Holley is dripping gas out the bottom,
from what looks like an accelerator pump.  Looks like the carb needs to come
out to service it. _______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3184/6371 - Release Date: 05/31/13
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 07:02:49 2013
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References: <1370196407.32044.YahooMailNeo@web122004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 07:53:22 -0500
From: Cullen McCann <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
To: "Russ and Tammy C." <rtscolgan@yahoo.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] $120,000.00 tiger?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Russ, being still a bit of a new guy myself, I hate to see any question
unresponded to...I've been there myself. Problem is, I don't recall which
Tiger it was that sold for the 120k mark. SEEMS like I remember discussions
of a carnival red 260 car of some vintage selling for 6 figure range. My
only thoughts are that its hard to define a "regular" Tiger, but I suppose
a carnival red Mk 1 or 1a would b a pretty "vanilla" in the Tiger world as
opposed to a MK2 or works car, or a race car or something. So many of them
have unique histories, unique ownership, unique VIN's that marked the
beginning or end of a certain body characteristic, or unusual color
schemes, etc, so its hard to define them in my opinion. All that being
said, I think its very true that Tigers are "catching on" or increasing in
value. Mk2's are becoming less obtainable on one end of the spectrum, and 4
Cylinder Alpines are growing as well. I was talking to one of the guys just
a couple days ago about some of these Alpines on eBay that are selling for
8, 9...10 grand or more...which is ALOT more than I paid for my distraught
Tiger project several years ago.... so if clean restored Alpines can bring
8 to 10 grand, and MK2's can bring 85-120 grand...then Id say "regular"
Tigers are some one in between depending on condition and thats an increase
over years past. I still see unrestored basketcases in the 10-15 grand
range...occasionally, and street ready drivers in the 30's and 40's... and
restored examples in the 60's, 70's and such..so if selling prices or
asking prices is any indication of their value or popularity...I'd say they
are among the more collectible cars of their class these days.

Its all relative I suppose....There are those who would say there are
always coattails to ride upon...there will always be another car that is
ahead of it, but for those who want to feel good about their investments, I
think we all should feel justified in that...

Cullen
Alpine 260
Yukon, OK


On Sun, Jun 2, 2013 at 1:06 PM, Russ and Tammy C. <rtscolgan@yahoo.com>wrote:

> Earlier this year I heard that a tiger went for 120 K at one of the
> auctions.
> Was it a regular tiger ? Are tigers  finally catching on?  Would appreciate
> any come back on it.     Thank you.  Russ   rtscolgan@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cmccann1972@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 11:25:58 2013
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From: "Curt Bowland" <cbowland@msn.com>
To: "tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 12:18:58 -0500
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 12:18:58 -0500
	FILETIME=[705C8360:01CE607E]
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers @ Sonoma
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Boy, for a change Tigers get some excellent coverage and exposure. Check out
the photos at

 http://www.sportscardigest.com/sonoma-historic-festival-2013-report-and-phot
os/<http://www.sportscardigest.com/sonoma-historic-festival-2013-report-and-p
hotos/>

Photographer Denis Gray has some GREAT photos of Tom Dyer's Monster Tiger and
Grant Lipsky's nicely prepared 1965 Tiger. Love seeing these guys get some
press. All this at the Corvette 50th Anniversary bash.

This is a great site that comes out weekly and covers the world.

Regards,

Curt
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 12:14:30 2013
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From: John Stithem <mai65tai@sonic.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 11:06:31 -0700
References: <mailman.11.1370282402.2060.tigers@autox.team.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Optima Discount for CAT Members
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Has anyone used the Optima Discount? How much of a discount did you get off
the Optima website price?

Summit sells Optima batteries and are listed for a lot lower price than what
is advertised on the Optima website. Just wondering if the "Discount" offered
to CAT members make the price better than what you can buy it elsewhere for.

>
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 10:09:05 +1000
> From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
> To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
> Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net  Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAET8snXG7JZnVBzE0FL4f00LcVdhFBtxDSr66eAfU_+9++_jQg@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> IIRC CAT have a discount for members on the Optima batteries.. they are
> great and dont leak!
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 13:04:41 2013
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From: "Thomas Prager" <tcprager@hotmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>, "John Stithem" <mai65tai@sonic.net>
References: <mailman.11.1370282402.2060.tigers@autox.team.net>
	<F9AECAEF-3E1B-4BB0-816A-58ACEE4D653E@sonic.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 13:59:56 -0500
	<F9AECAEF-3E1B-4BB0-816A-58ACEE4D653E@sonic.net>
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 13:59:56 -0500
	FILETIME=[8AF282C0:01CE608C]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Optima Discount for CAT Members
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Try Amazon - $160 with free super saver shipping................

tom
  ----- Original Message -----
  Sent: Monday, June 03, 2013 1:06 PM
  Subject: [Tigers] Optima Discount for CAT Members


  Has anyone used the Optima Discount? How much of a discount did you get off
  the Optima website price?

  Summit sells Optima batteries and are listed for a lot lower price than
what
  is advertised on the Optima website. Just wondering if the "Discount"
offered
  to CAT members make the price better than what you can buy it elsewhere
for.

  >
  >
  > Message: 3
  > Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 10:09:05 +1000
  > From: michael king
  > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
  > Message-ID:
  >
ET8snXG7JZnVBzE0FL4f00LcVdhFBtxDSr66eAfU_+9++_jQg@mail.gmail.com>>
  > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
  >
  > IIRC CAT have a discount for members on the Optima batteries.. they are
  > great and dont leak!
  _______________________________________________


  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 12:01:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Polarize Regulator - FYI
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

This is somthing that I had forgotten till I purchased a new Voltage Regulator
during my restoration..
 
Every time you disconnect either your positive or negative battery terminal
and you run a generator with a voltage regulator, you are required to polarize
the regulator.
 
Instructions:
Caution:
_______________________________________________

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	<BAY172-DS18750FB3BA18C3CE077BDDCB9D0@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 12:02:34 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Thomas Prager <tcprager@hotmail.com>
Cc: John Stithem <mai65tai@sonic.net>, Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Optima Discount for CAT Members
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Not to start too much of a seque, but I understand that there was a bad
batch of Optimas for a while there.  I don't know if it has ended, or if it
was definitely a real problem.  But, assuming it was, I wonder if there is
some way to get comfort that what is being purchased from any given source
is a newer one without the alleged problem.


On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 11:59 AM, Thomas Prager <tcprager@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Try Amazon - $160 with free super saver shipping................
>
> tom
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   Sent: Monday, June 03, 2013 1:06 PM
>   Subject: [Tigers] Optima Discount for CAT Members
>
>
>   Has anyone used the Optima Discount? How much of a discount did you get
> off
>   the Optima website price?
>
>   Summit sells Optima batteries and are listed for a lot lower price than
> what
>   is advertised on the Optima website. Just wondering if the "Discount"
> offered
>   to CAT members make the price better than what you can buy it elsewhere
> for.
>
>   >
>   >
>   > Message: 3
>   > Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 10:09:05 +1000
>   > From: michael king
>   > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
>   > Message-ID:
>   >
> <CAET8snXG7JZnVBzE0FL4f00LcVdhFBtxDSr66eAfU_+9++_jQg@mail.gmail.com
> ET8snXG7JZnVBzE0FL4f00LcVdhFBtxDSr66eAfU_+9++_jQg@mail.gmail.com>>
>   > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>   >
>   > IIRC CAT have a discount for members on the Optima batteries.. they are
>   > great and dont leak!
>   _______________________________________________
>
>
>   Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>   Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
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> x.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tcprager@hotmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 12:04:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Polarize Regulator - FYI
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

This is somthing that I had forgotten till I purchased a new Voltage Regulator
during my restoration..
 
Every time you disconnect either your positive or negative battery terminal
and you run a generator with a voltage regulator, you are required to polarize
the regulator.
 
Instructions received with new regulator:
Caution: Follow these instructions exactly.

Disconnect the wire at the regulator terminal marked FLD.
Momentarily (no longer than 2 seconds) touch the wire to the BAT terminal. 
There may be a brief spark:  this is normal.
Reconnect the wire to the field (FLD) terminal
Start vehicle and check charging system for proper operation.
 
Just in case the brain leak kicks in - FYI
 
Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 13:53:42 2013
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To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1370282402.2060.tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 12:49:01 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I was able to fixed a leaky accelerator pump on my Holley by replacing the 
diaphragm.  I didn't even have to remove the carb.

Roland

------------------------------
> From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
>
> On the flip side, I noticed that the Holley is dripping gas out the 
> bottom,
> from what looks like an accelerator pump.  Looks like the carb needs to 
> come
> out to service it.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 14:06:38 2013
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	<ED4CA8D16EC24470A41A1B289CD68387@Cobra>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 13:01:53 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: csx2282 <csx2282@sonic.net>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Seriously?

I had my fingers in there with a very stubby phillips screwdriver and
couldn't get leverage on the one screw I could get to. I gave up figuring
if I couldn't do that one, the three inside were going to be impossible.

I'm going to have to look again and see if I can get my allen key type
phillips screw driver in there.

Jay


On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 12:49 PM, csx2282 <csx2282@sonic.net> wrote:

> I was able to fixed a leaky accelerator pump on my Holley by replacing the
> diaphragm.  I didn't even have to remove the carb.
>
> Roland
>
> ------------------------------
>
>> From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
>>
>> On the flip side, I noticed that the Holley is dripping gas out the
>> bottom,
>> from what looks like an accelerator pump.  Looks like the carb needs to
>> come
>> out to service it.
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Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2013 15:48:24 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, csx2282 <csx2282@sonic.net>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay ...do a search on a toolset called CHAPMAN...it's tiny ratchet that uses screw drivers and allen wrenches about 3/4" long. I got mine from coal miners, as the set is sometimes the only tool a person can get into a tight place. I use stainless allen head bolts on my headers and torque them using my Chapman set. I have stripped one of the two ratcheys trying for extra torque but I knew better than using a cheater on them.Highly reccomend all Tiger owners buy a set!!!!
Sent from Huawei Mobile

Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

>Seriously?
>
>I had my fingers in there with a very stubby phillips screwdriver and
>couldn't get leverage on the one screw I could get to. I gave up figuring
>if I couldn't do that one, the three inside were going to be impossible.
>
>I'm going to have to look again and see if I can get my allen key type
>phillips screw driver in there.
>
>Jay
>
>
>On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 12:49 PM, csx2282 <csx2282@sonic.net> wrote:
>
>> I was able to fixed a leaky accelerator pump on my Holley by replacing the
>> diaphragm.  I didn't even have to remove the carb.
>>
>> Roland
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>>> From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
>>>
>>> On the flip side, I noticed that the Holley is dripping gas out the
>>> bottom,
>>> from what looks like an accelerator pump.  Looks like the carb needs to
>>> come
>>> out to service it.
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay,
Are you sure?  I've had blown diaphrams but don't think they ever leaked.
But, I've had plenty of Holley leaks from the fuel bowls and just last week from
the adjustable float adjuster.  Fuel will drip off the lowest point (accelerator
pump) but the leak usually is from above.
Gary
------------------------------
> From: Jay Laifman 
>
> On the flip side, I noticed that the Holley is dripping gas out the 
> bottom,
> from what looks like an accelerator pump.  Looks like the carb needs to 
> come
> out to service it.
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 16:26:07 2013
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 15:21:34 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

It sure looks like it.  I will agree that it's at the bottom and could be
from elsewhere.  I don't see any tracks, and it seemed pretty obvious when
the car was running.  I have seen a lot of comments on line that it is a
recurring problem on Holleys, especially with the old black pumps rather
than the new green ones that are resistant to alcohol issues.

But, I'm game to look for something else being the cause.  I'll take a look
again before pulling it off and apart.

Jay


On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 3:16 PM, Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>wrote:

> Jay,
> Are you sure?  I've had blown diaphrams but don't think they ever leaked.
> But, I've had plenty of Holley leaks from the fuel bowls and just last
> week from
> the adjustable float adjuster.  Fuel will drip off the lowest point
> (accelerator
> pump) but the leak usually is from above.
> Gary
> ------------------------------
> > From: Jay Laifman
> >
> > On the flip side, I noticed that the Holley is dripping gas out the
> > bottom,
> > from what looks like an accelerator pump.  Looks like the carb needs to
> > come
> > out to service it.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Jay Laifman'" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 20:24:15 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5gqLp/FnAyyVCIT4uRYJ8l+1TYwAADjI5A
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Cc: 'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay
	You make a good point about alcohol in the fuel.  We should all be
vigilant about fuel line problems that the alcohol can create.  Many of the
gaskets in our carburetors do not always interact well with alcohol.  It is
best to fix the minor problems now and not have a major problem later.

	I had to replace a fuel pump last year due to the bellows in that
fuel pump had deteriorated and was spitting out little black specks.
Thankfully it gave up in my garage while I was checking the fuel system for
the lack of performance my engine was exhibiting.
	I'm blaming it on the alcohol but that pump was at least 10 years
old.  I was also told that make fuel pump had issues with the bellows before
there was alcohol in the fuel.  I also replaced the 30 year old flex
junction in the fuel line even though it looked fine.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2013 6:22 PM
To: Gary Winblad
Cc: Tiger's Den
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?


It sure looks like it.  I will agree that it's at the bottom and could be
from elsewhere.  I don't see any tracks, and it seemed pretty obvious when
the car was running.  I have seen a lot of comments on line that it is a
recurring problem on Holleys, especially with the old black pumps rather
than the new green ones that are resistant to alcohol issues.

But, I'm game to look for something else being the cause.  I'll take a look
again before pulling it off and apart.

Jay
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 10:25:48 +1000
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: rtscolgan@yahoo.com
Cc: Tiger Talk List Tiger <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger value
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

>Was it a regular tiger ? Are tigers  finally catching on?  Would appreciate
> any come back on it.     Thank you.  Russ

There was a red MKI that passed in at auction not that long ago for $110K
IIRC. The car was a MKI with LAT 9 pie cutters and red stripe tyres, it was
a "low mileage" car which had an external respray. The car had popped up on
craigs list a while back.. appeared at a dealer shortly after.. then went
to the auction.

i think the car you might be referring to was the red MKI with silverstone
wheels that Dale restored and appeared in an article not that long ago. Car
was a fresh concourse resto and i believe went in the 120 range.. as dale
put it got an offer he couldnt turn down.. someone really wanted the car.

As for overall values.. there is a lot of range.. some good cars going
cheap and some rough ones going expensive. There are lots of tarted up
tigers out there that are being spruked around for top car money.. i think
the general trend is upwards, but the spikes and falls are quite wide.

I think currently any Tiger that is over 70k should be a very nice example
with no issues, there will come a time when that will buy you an average
car.. but not for a while.

But them to enjoy them.. you cant lose money if you dont sell it! :-0
-- 
Regards

Michael King
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 18:30:44 2013
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From: steve wick <srwick@hotmail.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, csx2282 <csx2282@sonic.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 17:26:01 -0700
References: <mailman.11.1370282402.2060.tigers@autox.team.net>,
	<ED4CA8D16EC24470A41A1B289CD68387@Cobra>,
	<CAAjp1z6Jebmzxw=-tci3PrHAaM1_GqSzmK056ftn_2ypqiihEA@mail.gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[17F99820:01CE60BA]
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I must be missing something. Why not just remove the bowl? The old accelerator
pumps
blow out so easy, I used to keep bowl gaskets and diaphragms on hand and
would
change them in about 15 minutes. Use a plastic rattle can cap under one of the
bottom screws
when you pull it out to catch the gas.

Steve in N. Id.

> Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 13:01:53 -0700
> From: jay.laifman@gmail.com
> To: csx2282@sonic.net
> CC: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
>
> Seriously?
>
> I had my fingers in there with a very stubby phillips screwdriver and
> couldn't get leverage on the one screw I could get to. I gave up figuring
> if I couldn't do that one, the three inside were going to be impossible.
>
> I'm going to have to look again and see if I can get my allen key type
> phillips screw driver in there.
>
> Jay
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 12:49 PM, csx2282 <csx2282@sonic.net> wrote:
>
> > I was able to fixed a leaky accelerator pump on my Holley by replacing
the
> > diaphragm.  I didn't even have to remove the carb.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> >> From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
> >>
> >> On the flip side, I noticed that the Holley is dripping gas out the
> >> bottom,
> >> from what looks like an accelerator pump.  Looks like the carb needs to
> >> come
> >> out to service it.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 20:48:50 2013
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From: "csx2282" <csx2282@sonic.net>
To: "tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4481.1370298032.1864.tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 19:37:36 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary has a good point.  When I first started driving my car after an engine 
rebuild, which included a professional carburetor rebuild, it leaked like 
crazy.  It turned out that the bowl mounting screws were too loose. 
Tightening them solved the problem.  In Jay's case, with a little detective 
work, it should be easy to verify whether or not it's the accelerator pump.

Regarding my accelerator pump leakage problem, it was indeed a bad 
diaphragm.  But this was just the final chapter in series of fuel leaks, 
most likely caused by the ethanol gas additive here in California.  During 
the rebuild I had installed stainless steel braded AN6 Earls fuel lines. 
After about five years, these lines began leaking when whatever the inner 
material was made of started deteriorating.  I solved that problem by 
replacing the lines with stainless steel braded Teflon lines.  At least I 
hope I did!

Roland

---------------------------------------------------------------
> From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
> Jay,
> Are you sure?  I've had blown diaphrams but don't think they ever leaked.
> But, I've had plenty of Holley leaks from the fuel bowls and just last 
> week from
> the adjustable float adjuster.  Fuel will drip off the lowest point 
> (accelerator
> pump) but the leak usually is from above.
> Gary
> ------------------------------
>> From: Jay Laifman
>>
>> On the flip side, I noticed that the Holley is dripping gas out the
>> bottom,
>> from what looks like an accelerator pump.  Looks like the carb needs to
>> come
>> out to service it.
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 21:19:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Terry Packer <packertl3@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Mk I Part ID?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I would appreciate help identifying the part pictured in the link below. One resides on my car (and its matching pair sits loose in a parts box). One is installed in conjunction with one of the spring loaded sliding fingers on the back side of the center rear panel which houses the soft top. Presumably it could somehow help keep the cloth top from tangling with the sliding finger. But the spacing of its mounting holes would permit mounting in other places, so I'm not sure it belongs in its current location.

It is about 3 inches in overall length and I didn't see it pictured in the PDF parts lists. So I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who can clarify what this part does, where it should be mounted and in what orientation. It would be ideal if you can send a photo of its correct installation.


Thanks for any assistance

Terry Packer
9470018


http://picturepush.com/public/13227469
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 06:15:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Gauge Bezels\glass & O Rings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have a source to secure the correct 'v' style, I believe they are
called, Tiger gauge bezels, glass and O rings for the face of our gauges?  I
would like to pretty up the gauge faces.  They are currently fitted to old
plastic Alpine dash without glove box side to see if they work and complete
install of new wiring harness.  Costs are getting out of hand and will only
send the ones that do not work, out for repair.
 
Was there a O ring on the back of the guage to protect the wood dash when
fitted?
 
Regards
Joel Martin
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 08:17:11 2013
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From: "Paul R. Breuhan" <prbreuhan@hotmail.com>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, Tigers Den
  <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 10:05:29 -0400
References: <1370351727.13839.YahooMailClassic@web164702.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	FILETIME=[923DC4E0:01CE612C]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gauge Bezels\glass & O Rings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

You get get them from...
Auto Electric Spares (http://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk) and
MJC Products (http://www.classicbezels.com/)...both in the U.K.

Also both sell on ebay...which is the best way to deal with them.
AES is username "djmalm1" and MJC is username "mjcprod"

MJC has a kit (bezel, glass, o-ring and nuts)...see auction #310352405950

I just bought some from MJC last week.

For a general search you need to use "Smiths" or "Jeager" and read the auction
description carefully to get the full V bezels.

Good Luck,
Paul






> Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 06:15:27 -0700
> From: jmartiniii@yahoo.com
> To: Tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Gauge Bezels\glass & O Rings
>
> Does anyone have a source to secure the correct 'v' style, I believe they
are
> called, Tiger gauge bezels, glass and O rings for the face of our gauges?
I
> would like to pretty up the gauge faces.  They are currently fitted to old
> plastic Alpine dash without glove box side to see if they work and complete
> install of new wiring harness.  Costs are getting out of hand and will only
> send the ones that do not work, out for repair.
>
> Was there a O ring on the back of the guage to protect the wood dash when
> fitted?
>
> Regards
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 10:38:18 2013
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From: "rande@thecia.net" <rande2@thecia.net>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 12:32:13 -0400
Priority: normal
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gauge Bezels\glass & O Rings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

----- Original Message Follows -----
> Does anyone have a source to secure the correct 'v' style, I believe
> they are called, Tiger gauge bezels, glass and O rings for the face of
> our gauges?  I would like to pretty up the gauge faces.  They are
> currently fitted to old plastic Alpine dash without glove box side to
> see if they work and complete install of new wiring harness.  Costs
> are getting out of hand and will only send the ones that do not work,
> out for repair.
>  
> Was there a O ring on the back of the guage to protect the wood dash
> when fitted?
>  
> Regards
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers@autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rande@thecia.net
> 
> DASH/GAUGE O-RING PRICE LIST
May 2004

These O-rings can be used to refurbish standard Smith/Jaeger gauges as
found in British classic cars. Sizes shown are the gauge body behind the
bezel.  Standard, Original, and Durable sets are only different in the
dash-to-gauge O-rings.  Determine if your gauge has metal ring under the
glass in which case it needs three rings (Jaeger style).
Standard rings have a round cross-sectioned rubber O-ring for the
dash-to-gauge.   This set is suitable for dashes that do not have the
gauges "proud" and just require damping.  Also used where the gauges are
recessed such as on 77-80 MGBs, or when using wood overlays. 
Original rings have the square sectioned dash-to-gauge O-rings made in
rubber, as were the originals. Suitable for concours cars.
Durable rings have rectangular cross-sectioned polyurethane
dash-to-gauge O-rings for durability and high finish. They are also
suitable for concours as they are rectangular sectioned with a high
finish.
There were some variations (more common with Jaeger gauges) in the bezel
sizes so check that your bezel-to-glass ring (the thickest one) fits in
the chrome bezel.  If it does not clamp down correctly another size may
be required.  Larger Jaeger gauges usually have a third O-ring between
the dial and glass which is difficult to spot.  To see if your gauge has
a third O-ring make sure you get the glass out completely (and
carefully) from the gauge.  The paper washers as used in some gauges are
not included.
Postage is included - except for orders below $10 for which add $2. 
Round up order to nearest dollar.
Payment by cash or money order.   The preferred method is to enclose
dollar notes in writing paper and mail just as a letter. Do not forget
to put your address with the order!  Inquire for other sizes  but refer
to size and make of gauge and NOT to car model.

Some differences exist between certain models so if you want to be sure
send bits of your old rings if you wish.

	STANDARD
US             Cdn	ORIGINAL
US                Cdn	DURABLE
US                Cdn	

52mm Smith or Jaeger
        Gauge-to-dash
        Glass-to-bezel
Complete 2  piece Dash & Bezel kit	

$1.00
$2.00
$3.00	

$1.50
$2.50
$4.00	

$2.00
$2.00
$4.00	

$2.50
$2.50
$5.00	

$2.00
$2.00
$4.00	

$2.50
$2.50
$5.00	

80mm Smith or Jaeger
        Gauge-to-dash
        Glass-to-bezel
Complete 2 piece Dash & Bezel kit	

$1.50
$2.50
$4.00	

$2.00
$3.00
$5.00	

$3.00
$2.50
$5.50	

$5.00
$3.00
$8.00	

$3.00
$2.50
$5.50	

$5.00
$3.00
$8.00	

100mm Smith 
         Gauge-to-dash
         Glass-to-bezel
Complete 2 piece Dash & Bezel kit	

$2.00
$3.00
$5.00	

$2.50
$3.50
$6.00	

$3.00
$3.00
$6.00	

$4.00
$4.00
$8.00	

$3.00
$3.00
$6.00	

$4.00
$4.00
$8.00	

100mm Jaeger
         Gauge-to-dash
         Glass-to-bezel
         Inner dial
Complete 3 piece Dash & Bezel kit	

$2.00
$3.00
$3.00
$8.00	

$2.50
$3.50
$3.50
$9.50	

$3.00
$3.00
$3.00
$9.00	

$3.50
$4.00
$3.50
$11.00	

$3.00
$3.00
$3.00
$9.00	

$3.50
$4.00
$3.50
$11.00	

120mm Smith or Jaeger    Dash only
	
$5.00	
$7.00	
$5.00	
$7.00	
$5.00	
$7.00	

RETAINER WASHERS FOR DZUS FASTENERS as used on the MGB battery box cover
											PRICE US$3 for six
											Includes postage
	
For further information contact;	Barrie Robinson, 172 Taylor Drive,
Barrie, Ontario. Canada, L4N 8L1
             Tel (705) 721-9060             Email  barrie@look.ca


IMPORTANT: Joel, the pricing is from 2004, You may want to contact
Barrie for 2013 prices and shipping. To answer personally one of your
questions, My Tiger 1A had seals between the gauges and the wood
instrument panel
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 10:41:44 2013
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From: Karl Adey <sunbeamkarl@hotmail.com>
To: The LIST Post <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 12:37:00 -0400
	FILETIME=[BCAF59E0:01CE6141]
Subject: [Tigers] Parts
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I'm getting to the end of my search for needed parts and won't be needing to
bother the list anymore.  That being said, does anyone have:
Brake and Clutch pedal return spring Cups.  ie Workshop Manual Pg K-19, Fig 9
part #8.  I need two.
A window regulator cog mechanism.  Transfers the force from the handle to the
large gear.
Thanks,Karl
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 10:53:59 2013
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 09:47:00 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Carb Update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for all the help.

To clarify, some of you suggested the accelerator pump was easier to get at
than others.  It seems there are two Holleys, and the older one is easier
to get to.  But, as others indicated, even on the new one, it's easy enough
to pull the float bowl cover and get at the accelerator pump.

I just called Holley. I ordered their basic rebuild kit.  He suggested that
the accelerator pump diaphram can get hard and crack from just sitting
(which this car has done for way too long - mind you, I told my dad
countless times I wanted him to get up and out and drive the car to the
ground).  He suggested that other rubber gaskets that come in the kit
should probably be replaced too.  So, I'll probably just pull the carb
entirely and go at it.

Jay
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 11:09:25 2013
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From: "Jerry Mo Christopherson" <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>
To: "Tiger Autox" <TIGERS@AUTOX.TEAM.NET>
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Subject: [Tigers] FW: Martha and the Vandellas at the Dearborn Assembly
 Plant - 1965
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OK, sorry to bomb the Tiger group with this, BUT, it is a 1965 video of the
Vandellas singing (you do remember them??) at Dearborn, MI while a 1965
Mustang is being assembled.  I've put many engines in Mustangs, but never
this fast!!  Nice to have the right equipment!

 

Jerry Christopherson

9473187

 

 

 

 


Subject:   Martha and the Vandellas at the Dearborn Assembly Plant - 1965

 


Enjoy! 

 

 

 
<http://jalopnik.com/5965632/this-old-motown-video-was-shot-on-a-running-mus
tang-assembly-line>
http://jalopnik.com/5965632/this-old-motown-video-was-shot-on-a-running-must
ang-assembly-line
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 14:50:37 2013
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To: Tiger Autox <TIGERS@AUTOX.TEAM.NET>,  Jerry Mo Christopherson
	<JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] FW: Martha and the Vandellas at the Dearborn Assembly
 Plant - 1965
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Jerry:

Now, THAT'S cool!!!!!  I've never seen that before!!  Thanks for passing it on!!

Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

---- Jerry Mo Christopherson <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net> wrote: 
> OK, sorry to bomb the Tiger group with this, BUT, it is a 1965 video of the
> Vandellas singing (you do remember them??) at Dearborn, MI while a 1965
> Mustang is being assembled.  I've put many engines in Mustangs, but never
> this fast!!  Nice to have the right equipment!
> 
>  
> 
> Jerry Christopherson
> 
> 9473187
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
> Subject:   Martha and the Vandellas at the Dearborn Assembly Plant - 1965
> 
>  
> 
> 
> Enjoy! 
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> <http://jalopnik.com/5965632/this-old-motown-video-was-shot-on-a-running-mus
> tang-assembly-line>
> http://jalopnik.com/5965632/this-old-motown-video-was-shot-on-a-running-must
> ang-assembly-line
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers@autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 15:37:09 2013
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From: Rollright@aol.com
Full-name: Rollright
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 17:29:42 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Tigers] video : birth of the original Mustang
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Very interesting video
 
'Birth of the original Mustang'
 
see:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_JDe7u7SWY
 
 
Jim Armstrong
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 08:07:54 2013
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From: "rande@thecia.net" <rande2@thecia.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 10:01:11 -0400
Priority: normal
Subject: [Tigers] Martha/Vandellas, Mustang I and Mustang prod
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

 Thanks to Rollright and to Jerry for the video links.

The Dearborn Mustang assembly plant video was neat, on several fronts.
Judging by the sight of the GT emblems and matching individual 'Mustang'
lettering, filming was well into production of the 1965 model. I was
amused a little by the singers permitted to dart into and out of cars as
they moved down the assembly line. I recently toured the MINI plant in
Oxford, and there, you'd be lucky if you got within 20 feet of the cars
on the line,workers were so concerned with visitors scratching paint or
glass. Any yes, Jerry, Ford used an engine hoist we would kill for. I
was knocked out by the sight of downpipes already installed before
installation.

The film about the Mustang I and Troutman-Barnes' role in its assembly
was neat. I think two versions were built, one the fully functional,
drivable one we saw in the film, and a second rolling chassis example
displayed at some auto shows. I've followed Troutman-Barnes since about
1967, and they have a rich history fabricating special cars. They worked
originally with Kurtis in the early 1950's, they built several examples
of Lance Reventlow's Scarab race cars while his racing concern was still
financially solvent, they had a hand in Peter Brock's BRE Samurai racer,
they built a limousine version of a 1969 VW Type 1 (beetle)(for
Volkswagen Pacific - the California distributor at the time), they built
a four door Porsche 911(with suicide rear doors and Sportomatic)for a
Texas dealer as a birthday present for his wife, and this is just the
highlights.

If you Google 'image' Volkswagen Limousine, you may come up with images
for both the black limo and the green with stock steel chrome wheels 911
 The brown 911 with Fuchs alloy wheels in 'images' is the same car that
was resprayed in that color by a later owner.

 If you need to read more about the 911 four-door, it's the cover
article in the March 1968 Road & Track, which may be available on eBay.
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Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 09:03:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Fw: Questions\Issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The ride height on the front of my 66 MK1A is too high - car slopes front to
back with stock springs and the CAT rubber insolator which are 5/8" thick.  It
has been suggested to use Mustang II insolators as well as possibly changing
to Rick's 450 pound springs, which if I remember right are 1" shorter.  Any
ideas without changing springs or cutting stock springs as I do not like to
cut any springs?
 
The front brake dust caps have a small hole in the center - is this correct? 
If not source and part number to get new ones - We have taken to NAPA to match
up new ones to no avail.
 
Is there suppose to be a rubber seal that goes on the 'inner fender where it
meets the wing?  Possibly like the MGB - cannot seem to determine.  Little too
wide a gap for using sealer.  Ideas?
 
Rebuilt brake calipers or getting yours redone source?  I rebuilt both
calipers with MGB SS pistons and rebuild kit and also put in new split caliper
seals, though I cannot for the life of me find where I got them.  One of the
rebuilt calipers is leaking at the split seal location.
 
Regards
Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 11:02:48 2013
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References: <1370448234.92364.YahooMailClassic@web164706.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 09:50:03 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
Cc: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fw: Questions\Issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

When you put the front end together, did you leave the A arm bushings loose
until you drove the car around the block for a little while?

And also we are going to see pictures of this car, right?


On Wed, Jun 5, 2013 at 9:03 AM, Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> wrote:

> The ride height on the front of my 66 MK1A is too high - car slopes front
> to
> back with stock springs and the CAT rubber insolator which are 5/8" thick.
>  It
> has been suggested to use Mustang II insolators as well as possibly
> changing
> to Rick's 450 pound springs, which if I remember right are 1" shorter.  Any
> ideas without changing springs or cutting stock springs as I do not like to
> cut any springs?
>
> The front brake dust caps have a small hole in the center - is this
> correct?
> If not source and part number to get new ones - We have taken to NAPA to
> match
> up new ones to no avail.
>
> Is there suppose to be a rubber seal that goes on the 'inner fender where
> it
> meets the wing?  Possibly like the MGB - cannot seem to determine.  Little
> too
> wide a gap for using sealer.  Ideas?
>
> Rebuilt brake calipers or getting yours redone source?  I rebuilt both
> calipers with MGB SS pistons and rebuild kit and also put in new split
> caliper
> seals, though I cannot for the life of me find where I got them.  One of
> the
> rebuilt calipers is leaking at the split seal location.
>
> Regards
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 11:16:30 2013
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From: "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, Joel Martin
  <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 13:11:39 -0400
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Fw: Questions\Issues
Thread-Index: Ac5iDdK/odibsyiZS4Kt7jZheBYx1QAAWbhA
References: <1370448234.92364.YahooMailClassic@web164706.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<CAAjp1z65SPrhKTbgrcg9F9NF7BxUfppYgqKMUiSfYb8C-T0Wvg@mail.gmail.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
acceptlanguage: en-US
Cc: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fw: Questions\Issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Regarding the Mustang II spring insulators, Ford dealers no longer have them.
The easiest source is Speedway Motors (speedwaymotors.com) as these are used
extensively by the hot rod community.

Jere

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 9:50 AM
To: Joel Martin
Cc: Tiger List Serve
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fw: Questions\Issues

When you put the front end together, did you leave the A arm bushings loose
until you drove the car around the block for a little while?

And also we are going to see pictures of this car, right?


On Wed, Jun 5, 2013 at 9:03 AM, Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> wrote:

> The ride height on the front of my 66 MK1A is too high - car slopes
> front to back with stock springs and the CAT rubber insolator which
> are 5/8" thick.
>  It
> has been suggested to use Mustang II insolators as well as possibly
> changing to Rick's 450 pound springs, which if I remember right are 1"
> shorter.  Any ideas without changing springs or cutting stock springs
> as I do not like to cut any springs?
>
> The front brake dust caps have a small hole in the center - is this
> correct?
> If not source and part number to get new ones - We have taken to NAPA
> to match up new ones to no avail.
>
> Is there suppose to be a rubber seal that goes on the 'inner fender
> where it meets the wing?  Possibly like the MGB - cannot seem to
> determine.  Little too wide a gap for using sealer.  Ideas?
>
> Rebuilt brake calipers or getting yours redone source?  I rebuilt both
> calipers with MGB SS pistons and rebuild kit and also put in new split
> caliper seals, though I cannot for the life of me find where I got
> them.  One of the rebuilt calipers is leaking at the split seal
> location.
>
> Regards
> Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 11:32:05 2013
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	<CAAjp1z65SPrhKTbgrcg9F9NF7BxUfppYgqKMUiSfYb8C-T0Wvg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 13:19:05 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>,
	Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fw: Questions\Issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel,

When I built my Mark 2 I lost at least a hundred pounds off the front end
by changing the heads, manifold and water pump to aluminum. I'm pretty sure
the front's riding a bit higher than it did when the cast iron  parts were
on the engine. I checked the May '12 SS catalog; springs aren't listed, but
I believe Dale A has them. Rick lists caliper rebuild kits and stainless
caliper pistons.

Tom
'67 Mark 2


On Wed, Jun 5, 2013 at 12:50 PM, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

> When you put the front end together, did you leave the A arm bushings loose
> until you drove the car around the block for a little while?
>
> And also we are going to see pictures of this car, right?
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 5, 2013 at 9:03 AM, Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > The ride height on the front of my 66 MK1A is too high - car slopes front
> > to
> > back with stock springs and the CAT rubber insolator which are 5/8"
> thick.
> >  It
> > has been suggested to use Mustang II insolators as well as possibly
> > changing
> > to Rick's 450 pound springs, which if I remember right are 1" shorter.
>  Any
> > ideas without changing springs or cutting stock springs as I do not like
> to
> > cut any springs?
> >
> > The front brake dust caps have a small hole in the center - is this
> > correct?
> > If not source and part number to get new ones - We have taken to NAPA to
> > match
> > up new ones to no avail.
> >
> > Is there suppose to be a rubber seal that goes on the 'inner fender where
> > it
> > meets the wing?  Possibly like the MGB - cannot seem to determine.
>  Little
> > too
> > wide a gap for using sealer.  Ideas?
> >
> > Rebuilt brake calipers or getting yours redone source?  I rebuilt both
> > calipers with MGB SS pistons and rebuild kit and also put in new split
> > caliper
> > seals, though I cannot for the life of me find where I got them.  One of
> > the
> > rebuilt calipers is leaking at the split seal location.
> >
> > Regards
> > Joel Martin
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Front Bumper Height
Thread-Index: Ac5iGbcGPhbwpRGDSeu4zZvoRYzi1A==
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 18:23:05 +0000
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Subject: [Tigers] Front Bumper Height
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

What is the consensus for setting the relationship of the front bumper to the
front valence? I'm leveling the mounts for the bumper and don't want to go
through this twice. Certain sage sources in Dayton told me a finger-width
between the top of the upper front valence and the inside of the bumper's
upper radius. Unfortunately, fingers vary significantly in diameter so a true
measurement would be helpful.

Thanks,
Bugz
_______________________________________________

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Subject: [Tigers] Generator bracket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone in the Tiger group have any interest in a SB Ford generator and 
mounting bracket? They were on a '63 Falcon I purchased a couple of years 
ago. I can't find any markings on the generator, except stamped on the 
generator fan is: A3 FAA, and on the stamped end cover / mount is a oval with 
"FOMOCO" in it. The bracket has: C20E-10038-N cast into the bracket.

                 Bob Lerch....former Tiger owner.....
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 16:34:48 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5iCmJgmD8eo/+vRB6XlzwZqsFJEAAHXv8g
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fw: Questions\Issues
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel
	I have the Mustang II rubber spring perch with stock springs.  I
tried other combinations but I did not like the ride with heavier springs
nor the height with stock or Cat rubber parts.   The suspension needs to
have the car weight on it before tightening the suspension components.

The large bearing cap over the front axle nut does have a small hole - it
will equalize pressure as the bearings, grease and everything heats up and
cools down.

Are you talking about where there is a step at the inner fender?
There is a steel plate with 2 sheet metal screws that cover that area plus a
good bit of seal and undercoat.

Splitting and putting calipers back together can be tricky.  You have to
make sure all the surfaces are clean and flat.
I have reused the original seal with success but there is no guarantee.
Seems to me either Rich or Dale have some of those seals.  I would pull the
leaking caliper apart, inspect the flat areas, clean the seal and dry the
seal area then assembly.

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 12:04 PM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Fw: Questions\Issues


The ride height on the front of my 66 MK1A is too high - car slopes front to
back with stock springs and the CAT rubber insolator which are 5/8" thick.
It has been suggested to use Mustang II insolators as well as possibly
changing to Rick's 450 pound springs, which if I remember right are 1"
shorter.  Any ideas without changing springs or cutting stock springs as I
do not like to cut any springs?

The front brake dust caps have a small hole in the center - is this correct?

If not source and part number to get new ones - We have taken to NAPA to
match up new ones to no avail.

Is there suppose to be a rubber seal that goes on the 'inner fender where it
meets the wing?  Possibly like the MGB - cannot seem to determine.  Little
too wide a gap for using sealer.  Ideas?

Rebuilt brake calipers or getting yours redone source?  I rebuilt both
calipers with MGB SS pistons and rebuild kit and also put in new split
caliper seals, though I cannot for the life of me find where I got them.
One of the rebuilt calipers is leaking at the split seal location.

Regards
Joel Martin
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 16:13:28 2013
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	<2903575113214B1AB61D032CEFA6B5FF@Cobra>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 15:07:15 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: csx2282 <csx2282@sonic.net>
Cc: tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Electrical problem - ignition/ballast resistor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I took off the carb last night and took off the fuel bowl.  There is
nothing obvious.  But, I think Gary and Roland are probably right.  I
really can't see how the accelerator pump was leaking, and it appears that
it was more likely the bowl.  I'll never know for sure.  I'm certainly
looking forward to getting the kit from Holley and digging in.

Jay


On Mon, Jun 3, 2013 at 7:37 PM, csx2282 <csx2282@sonic.net> wrote:

> Gary has a good point.  When I first started driving my car after an
> engine rebuild, which included a professional carburetor rebuild, it leaked
> like crazy.  It turned out that the bowl mounting screws were too loose.
> Tightening them solved the problem.  In Jay's case, with a little detective
> work, it should be easy to verify whether or not it's the accelerator pump.
>
> Regarding my accelerator pump leakage problem, it was indeed a bad
> diaphragm.  But this was just the final chapter in series of fuel leaks,
> most likely caused by the ethanol gas additive here in California.  During
> the rebuild I had installed stainless steel braded AN6 Earls fuel lines.
> After about five years, these lines began leaking when whatever the inner
> material was made of started deteriorating.  I solved that problem by
> replacing the lines with stainless steel braded Teflon lines.  At least I
> hope I did!
>
> Roland
>
> ------------------------------**------------------------------**---
>
>> From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
>> Jay,
>> Are you sure?  I've had blown diaphrams but don't think they ever leaked.
>> But, I've had plenty of Holley leaks from the fuel bowls and just last
>> week from
>> the adjustable float adjuster.  Fuel will drip off the lowest point
>> (accelerator
>> pump) but the leak usually is from above.
>> Gary
>> ------------------------------
>>
>>> From: Jay Laifman
>>>
>>> On the flip side, I noticed that the Holley is dripping gas out the
>>> bottom,
>>> from what looks like an accelerator pump.  Looks like the carb needs to
>>> come
>>> out to service it.
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fw: Questions\Issues
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Joel,
The hole in the bearing cap is supposed to be there for venting. The shop manual also notes that they should not be filled with grease to work correctly.B 
I recently had my calipers rebuilt by apple hydraulics. I think it was about $B 113/caliper. Got em in about a week with new pistons and crossover seal.-not loaded. I was happy with them.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> 
Date: 06/05/2013  12:03 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Tigers] Fw: Questions\Issues 
 
The ride height on the front of my 66 MK1A is too high - car slopes front to
back with stock springs and the CAT rubber insolator which are 5/8" thick.B  It
has been suggested to use Mustang II insolators as well as possibly changing
to Rick's 450 pound springs, which if I remember right are 1" shorter.B  Any
ideas without changing springs or cutting stock springs as I do not like to
cut any springs?

The front brake dust caps have a small hole in the center - is this correct? 
If not source and part number to get new ones - We have taken to NAPA to match
up new ones to no avail.

Is there suppose to be a rubber seal that goes on the 'inner fender where it
meets the wing?B  Possibly like the MGB - cannot seem to determine.B  Little too
wide a gap for using sealer.B  Ideas?

Rebuilt brake calipers or getting yours redone source?B  I rebuilt both
calipers with MGB SS pistons and rebuild kit and also put in new split caliper
seals, though I cannot for the life of me find where I got them.B  One of the
rebuilt calipers is leaking at the split seal location.

Regards
Joel Martin
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Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 22:47:00 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: Tod Brown <todbrown@roadrunner.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger trailer hitch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

In last months Tiger Tales there's a picture of Bean,not sure if it's a Tiger or an Alpine but it's towing an Alpine half car. I own a very nice one and I'm requesting advice about installing a Trailer hitch to my Tiger. I once examined Tiger Toms car, as it had every option my Mk7 Lincoln had BUT I didn't look at his trailer hitch. Anyone with knowledge or experience please share. TIA TonytheTiger
Sent from Huawei Mobile
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 10:29:50 2013
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From: Jeff Howarth <jeff@v8tiger.demon.co.uk>
To: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>, Tod Brown <todbrown@roadrunner.com>,
	"tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tiger trailer hitch
Thread-Index: AQHOYmiKHpsvQIaWMEmHfMWQUKOelZko3UAg
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 16:17:45 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger trailer hitch
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Tony,

tow hitches were available in the UK as aftermarket.

they fitted under the trunk floor and also on the bumper mounts. Some also
bolted through the rear bumper for added strength.

I have one  in the garage loft, can send you some pictures if you wish.

Jeff


Jeff Howarth

________________________________________
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] on behalf
of TtT [achd73@yahoo.com]
Sent: 06 June 2013 04:47
To: Tod Brown; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger trailer hitch

In last months Tiger Tales there's a picture of Bean,not sure if it's a Tiger
or an Alpine but it's towing an Alpine half car. I own a very nice one and I'm
requesting advice about installing a Trailer hitch to my Tiger. I once
examined Tiger Toms car, as it had every option my Mk7 Lincoln had BUT I
didn't look at his trailer hitch. Anyone with knowledge or experience please
share. TIA TonytheTiger
Sent from Huawei Mobile
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 11:24:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Brake Caliper split seals for Tiger - FYI
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The caliper seals, 007J4908, are carried by Dave Bean Engineering @
http://www.davebean.com/  the lotus store.  A Ken Gray there is very helpful
and they carry all sorts of caliper pieces plus clutch slave cylinders and
other parts for tiger that seem to cross to other vehicles.  Ken tells me the
caliper pistons crossed to Cortina GT, Elan +2 and Triumph GT6. They do not
have a online catalog at this point, so you need to call 209 754
5802.   Thanks Tom.
 
Regards
Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 12:54:08 2013
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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2013 14:36:40 -0400
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, Tiger List Serve
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
From: Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>
References: <1370543094.94080.YahooMailClassic@web164703.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
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	25sVsRqlW3W+g==
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake Caliper split seals for Tiger - FYI
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

At 02:24 PM 6/6/2013, Joel Martin wrote:
 >The caliper seals, 007J4908, are carried by Dave Bean Engineering @
 >http://www.davebean.com/  the lotus store.  A Ken Gray there is very
helpful
 >and they carry all sorts of caliper pieces plus clutch slave cylinders and
 >other parts for tiger that seem to cross to other vehicles.  Ken tells me
the
 >caliper pistons crossed to Cortina GT, Elan +2 and Triumph GT6. They do not
 >have a online catalog at this point, so you need to call 209 754
 >5802.   Thanks Tom.

The '70 to '74 Coritina used the  second
generation of the Girling brake system.  The
Cortina was sold in the US by Ford under the
Mercury label, as my pea-brain data banks recall.

Marc


msmall@aya.yale.edu
Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 13:11:51 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <1370543094.94080.YahooMailClassic@web164703.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2013 12:00:44 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake Caliper split seals for Tiger - FYI
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Note: You will have to cut and paste this (whole) reference to see the site. 
I drove past DBE a few weeks ago.  I barely caught it out of the corner of 
my eye as I motored down California's historic Hwy 49. I got all excited - 
my wife... less so.  You have to appreciate how a service out in the "middle 
of nowhere" (for us city/suburbia dwellers) can be substantial to a small, 
but dedicated group of specific car owners.

http://maps.google.com/maps?q=636+W+St+Charles+St,+San+Andreas,+CA&hl=en&ll=38.188866,-120.674472&spn=0.011536,0.022724&sll=38.190771,-120.675101&sspn=0.000721,0.00142&oq=636+w+St+Charles+St,+San+Andreas,+CA&t=h&hnear=636+W+St+Charles+St,+San+Andreas,+Calaveras,+California&z=16&layer=c&cbll=38.188577,-120.674421&panoid=cn8ehrQrOJ1mPobnV3Gwyw&cbp=12,189.73,,1,3.16



> The caliper seals, 007J4908, are carried by Dave Bean Engineering @
> http://www.davebean.com/  the lotus store. 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 13:15:02 2013
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	<20130606185404.A87E6403D8@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 12:10:14 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>
Cc: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>,
	Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake Caliper split seals for Tiger - FYI
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Are we talking about the piston seal or the seal between the caliper
halves?  If the later, as far as I know, there is no good reason to split
the calipers unless they are leaking between the halves, and you are only
asking for trouble if you do.

I've never done it.  So, I don't know how realistic the trouble is.  On the
other hand, I've never had a need to do it either.

Jay


On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 11:36 AM, Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>wrote:

> At 02:24 PM 6/6/2013, Joel Martin wrote:
> >The caliper seals, 007J4908, are carried by Dave Bean Engineering @
> >http://www.davebean.com/  the lotus store.  A Ken Gray there is very
> helpful
> >and they carry all sorts of caliper pieces plus clutch slave cylinders and
> >other parts for tiger that seem to cross to other vehicles.  Ken tells me
> the
> >caliper pistons crossed to Cortina GT, Elan +2 and Triumph GT6. They do
> not
> >have a online catalog at this point, so you need to call 209 754
> >5802.   Thanks Tom.
>
> The '70 to '74 Coritina used the  second
> generation of the Girling brake system.  The
> Cortina was sold in the US by Ford under the
> Mercury label, as my pea-brain data banks recall.
>
> Marc
>
>
> msmall@aya.yale.edu
> Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com>
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 12:18:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>, Jay Laifman
	<jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake Caliper split seals for Tiger - FYI
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay
 
The seal between the caliper halfs.  This was the only way I could get the
caliper pistons out.  Asking for trouble, oh yes - found it.  One is leaking
after reassembly, so getting new seals and some red grease (Girling) clean
again with new seal on the leaking left side and try again ensuring absolute
cleanliness and orientation, then torquing the 3/8" bolts, I think, to 55
pounds.
 
Unless I am still out in left field on my approach?
 
Regards
Joel Martin

--- On Thu, 6/6/13, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:


From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake Caliper split seals for Tiger - FYI
To: "Marc James Small" <marcsmall@comcast.net>
Cc: "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "Tiger List Serve"
<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, June 6, 2013, 3:10 PM




Are we talking about the piston seal or the seal between the caliper halves? 
If the later, as far as I know, there is no good reason to split the calipers
unless they are leaking between the halves, and you are only asking for
trouble if you do.
 
I've never done it.  So, I don't know how realistic the trouble is.  On the
other hand, I've never had a need to do it either.
 
Jay



On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 11:36 AM, Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>
wrote:

At 02:24 PM 6/6/2013, Joel Martin wrote:
>The caliper seals, 007J4908, are carried by Dave Bean Engineering @
>http://www.davebean.com/  the lotus store.  A Ken Gray there is very
helpful
>and they carry all sorts of caliper pieces plus clutch slave cylinders and
>other parts for tiger that seem to cross to other vehicles.  Ken tells me
the
>caliper pistons crossed to Cortina GT, Elan +2 and Triumph GT6. They do not
>have a online catalog at this point, so you need to call 209 754
>5802.   Thanks Tom.

The '70 to '74 Coritina used the  second
generation of the Girling brake system.  The
Cortina was sold in the US by Ford under the
Mercury label, as my pea-brain data banks recall.

Marc


msmall@aya.yale.edu
Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!
_______________________________________________

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From: Tiger Man <tigerman67@hotmail.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 15:59:12 -0600
	FILETIME=[14706370:01CE6301]
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi all,

I thought I would mention this one to the list, make sure I am going in the
right direction.  If I start my tiger and run the RPM's up, My amp meter shows
about a 5 Amp charge (until the battery is charged back up).  If I turn my
headlights on (with the RPM's up) it shows about a 3 Amp discharge.  The other
interesting side effect is while driving around with the headlights on, the
car cuts out dramatically but momentarily... like the Pertronix ign module is
browning out or something?

Anyway, since it charges at all, I assume that means that the generator works,
and that I should go look at the Voltage regulator first, and if that checks
out, then move on to check the generator.  I think I still have a used spare
generator on the shelf.  Will the local parts houses even know how to test
those correctly anymore if I bring one down to them.

Its been alot of years since I have had to work on a generator problem, so
thought I would try to do the research on them.  I did run across the comment
about polarity/charge on the charging system, especially one that has sat
around for a while.   I had forgotten or never knew that, but since I am
getting charge from my current system, I am more concerned with that on any
generator I might have sitting on the shelf.

Just thought it was odd that a discharge condition would cause the Pertronix
module to brown out occasionally.  Wanted to make sure that I shouldn't be
looking at lighting system draw to ensure that don't have something weird that
is actually causing a massive draw and just maxing out the
Generator/regulator.

Thanks,
Steve
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Tiger Man <tigerman67@hotmail.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights
  on
Thread-Index: AQHOYwEf0U4XSDDkUEOmf5qKYirOnJkpPIZg
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 22:08:45 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights  on
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

First check that your ammeter is working at all and that it's wired properly.
With the ignition off, turn on the headlights. You should show about 10 amps
discharge. The horns should also draw about 6-10 amps if they're adjusted
properly, IIRC. The spec current draw for each horn is given in the factory
manual.

It does sound like your regulator isn't doing the job. For proper charging,
the ignition system voltage needs to be about 13.5 to 14 volts when the engine
is running; you can check this with a voltmeter. Turning on the lights should
not cause a significant voltage drop. I'd expect to see a couple of amps of
charge current even at idle, and more immediately after you've started the
engine. If it won't charge unless you rev the engine, maybe check the
generator brushes?

If you have sudden cutouts then maybe something isn't grounded properly. Check
the ground connections on the engine to chassis, from the generator to the
chassis, and from the battery to the chassis. Are your headlights operating at
full brightness? When the engine cuts out, do the headlights suddenly dim?
This might be hard to check without a helper...

Theo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tiger Man
> Sent: June 6, 2013 3:59 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
>
> Hi all,
>
> I thought I would mention this one to the list, make sure I am going in
> the right direction.  If I start my tiger and run the RPM's up, My amp
> meter shows about a 5 Amp charge (until the battery is charged back
> up).  If I turn my headlights on (with the RPM's up) it shows about a 3
> Amp discharge.  The other interesting side effect is while driving
> around with the headlights on, the car cuts out dramatically but
> momentarily... like the Pertronix ign module is browning out or
> something?


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From: "Jerry Mo Christopherson" <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>
To: "'Tiger Man'" <tigerman67@hotmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY169-W282A020A28293E76EC7B15C1980@phx.gbl>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights  on
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm pretty sure the Pertronix needs a solid 12 volts.  If you are
discharging with lights on you may not be getting full 12 to the ignition.

Jerry Christopherson
9473187

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tiger Man
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 4:59 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on

Hi all,

I thought I would mention this one to the list, make sure I am going in the
right direction.  If I start my tiger and run the RPM's up, My amp meter
shows about a 5 Amp charge (until the battery is charged back up).  If I
turn my headlights on (with the RPM's up) it shows about a 3 Amp discharge.
The other interesting side effect is while driving around with the
headlights on, the car cuts out dramatically but momentarily... like the
Pertronix ign module is browning out or something?

Anyway, since it charges at all, I assume that means that the generator
works, and that I should go look at the Voltage regulator first, and if that
checks out, then move on to check the generator.  I think I still have a
used spare generator on the shelf.  Will the local parts houses even know
how to test those correctly anymore if I bring one down to them.

Its been alot of years since I have had to work on a generator problem, so
thought I would try to do the research on them.  I did run across the
comment about polarity/charge on the charging system, especially one that
has sat
around for a while.   I had forgotten or never knew that, but since I am
getting charge from my current system, I am more concerned with that on any
generator I might have sitting on the shelf.

Just thought it was odd that a discharge condition would cause the Pertronix
module to brown out occasionally.  Wanted to make sure that I shouldn't be
looking at lighting system draw to ensure that don't have something weird
that is actually causing a massive draw and just maxing out the
Generator/regulator.

Thanks,
Steve
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net
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From: "Lynn" <cars@wt-inc.com>
To: "'Jerry Mo Christopherson'" <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>, "'Tiger Man'"
	<tigerman67@hotmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY169-W282A020A28293E76EC7B15C1980@phx.gbl>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

That was going to be my suggestion as well

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry Mo Christopherson
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 4:21 PM
To: 'Tiger Man'; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on

I'm pretty sure the Pertronix needs a solid 12 volts.  If you are
discharging with lights on you may not be getting full 12 to the ignition.

Jerry Christopherson
9473187

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tiger Man
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 4:59 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on

Hi all,

I thought I would mention this one to the list, make sure I am going in the
right direction.  If I start my tiger and run the RPM's up, My amp meter
shows about a 5 Amp charge (until the battery is charged back up).  If I
turn my headlights on (with the RPM's up) it shows about a 3 Amp discharge.
The other interesting side effect is while driving around with the
headlights on, the car cuts out dramatically but momentarily... like the
Pertronix ign module is browning out or something?

Anyway, since it charges at all, I assume that means that the generator
works, and that I should go look at the Voltage regulator first, and if that
checks out, then move on to check the generator.  I think I still have a
used spare generator on the shelf.  Will the local parts houses even know
how to test those correctly anymore if I bring one down to them.

Its been alot of years since I have had to work on a generator problem, so
thought I would try to do the research on them.  I did run across the
comment about polarity/charge on the charging system, especially one that
has sat
around for a while.   I had forgotten or never knew that, but since I am
getting charge from my current system, I am more concerned with that on any
generator I might have sitting on the shelf.

Just thought it was odd that a discharge condition would cause the Pertronix
module to brown out occasionally.  Wanted to make sure that I shouldn't be
looking at lighting system draw to ensure that don't have something weird
that is actually causing a massive draw and just maxing out the
Generator/regulator.

Thanks,
Steve
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 15:48:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Douglas Lyle <douglasalyle@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights  on
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The Pertronix will operate fine until it dips below 6 volts.

Doug Lyle
________________________________
 From: Lynn <cars@wt-inc.com>
To: 'Jerry Mo
Christopherson' <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>; 'Tiger Man'
<tigerman67@hotmail.com>; tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, June 6, 2013
3:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn
headlights on
 

That was going to be my suggestion as well

-----Original
Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry Mo Christopherson
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 4:21 PM
To: 'Tiger Man'; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
I'm pretty sure the Pertronix needs a solid 12 volts.  If you are
discharging
with lights on you may not be getting full 12 to the ignition.

Jerry
Christopherson
9473187

-----Original Message-----
From:
tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf
Of Tiger Man
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 4:59 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on

Hi
all,

I thought I would mention this one to the list, make sure I am going in
the
right direction.  If I start my tiger and run the RPM's up, My amp meter
shows about a 5 Amp charge (until the battery is charged back up).  If I
turn
my headlights on (with the RPM's up) it shows about a 3 Amp discharge.
The
other interesting side effect is while driving around with the
headlights on,
the car cuts out dramatically but momentarily... like the
Pertronix ign module
is browning out or something?

Anyway, since it charges at all, I assume that
means that the generator
works, and that I should go look at the Voltage
regulator first, and if that
checks out, then move on to check the generator. 
I think I still have a
used spare generator on the shelf.  Will the local
parts houses even know
how to test those correctly anymore if I bring one down
to them.

Its been alot of years since I have had to work on a generator
problem, so
thought I would try to do the research on them.  I did run across
the
comment about polarity/charge on the charging system, especially one that
has sat
around for a while.   I had forgotten or never knew that, but since I
am
getting charge from my current system, I am more concerned with that on any
generator I might have sitting on the shelf.

Just thought it was odd that a
discharge condition would cause the Pertronix
module to brown out
occasionally.  Wanted to make sure that I shouldn't be
looking at lighting
system draw to ensure that don't have something weird
that is actually causing
a massive draw and just maxing out the
Generator/regulator.

Thanks,
Steve
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net
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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2013 19:24:10 -0400
From: Don Antilla <fast427@sbcglobal.net>
To: Douglas Lyle <douglasalyle@yahoo.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Doug: I talked with Pertronix about a year ago regarding the Ignitor II
for my Series 200 Griffith.
When I talked with their Tech person, he was telling me that he could not
assure the Ignitor II would work at 6 volts; he recommended trying to get
as close to 12 volts as possible.
I believe there are different voltage requirements for the Ignitor vs. the
Ignitor II, so I recommend  that you call Pertronix to be sure about what
you need for primary voltage.

Also, if you or the other Tiger guys use the Ignitor II, be certain to use
radio resistance spark plug wires. I checked this with the Pertronix Tech
guy (again)  and he said it is a real requirement . The reason is that the
micro-controller chip can be disrupted with the EMI pulses from solid core
plug wires and therefore you must use radio resistance wires.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Don Antilla


On 6/6/13 6:48 PM, "Douglas Lyle" <douglasalyle@yahoo.com> wrote:

>The Pertronix will operate fine until it dips below 6 volts.
>
>Doug Lyle
>________________________________
> From: Lynn <cars@wt-inc.com>
>To: 'Jerry Mo
>Christopherson' <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>; 'Tiger Man'
><tigerman67@hotmail.com>; tigers@autox.team.net
>Sent: Thursday, June 6, 2013
>3:34 PM
>Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn
>headlights on
> 
>
>That was going to be my suggestion as well
>
>-----Original
>Message-----
>From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
>[mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Jerry Mo Christopherson
>Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 4:21 PM
>To: 'Tiger Man'; tigers@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
>I'm pretty sure the Pertronix needs a solid 12 volts.  If you are
>discharging
>with lights on you may not be getting full 12 to the ignition.
>
>Jerry
>Christopherson
>9473187
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
>tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf
>Of Tiger Man
>Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 4:59 PM
>To: tigers@autox.team.net
>Subject: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
>
>Hi
>all,
>
>I thought I would mention this one to the list, make sure I am going in
>the
>right direction.  If I start my tiger and run the RPM's up, My amp meter
>shows about a 5 Amp charge (until the battery is charged back up).  If I
>turn
>my headlights on (with the RPM's up) it shows about a 3 Amp discharge.
>The
>other interesting side effect is while driving around with the
>headlights on,
>the car cuts out dramatically but momentarily... like the
>Pertronix ign module
>is browning out or something?
>
>Anyway, since it charges at all, I assume that
>means that the generator
>works, and that I should go look at the Voltage
>regulator first, and if that
>checks out, then move on to check the generator.
>I think I still have a
>used spare generator on the shelf.  Will the local
>parts houses even know
>how to test those correctly anymore if I bring one down
>to them.
>
>Its been alot of years since I have had to work on a generator
>problem, so
>thought I would try to do the research on them.  I did run across
>the
>comment about polarity/charge on the charging system, especially one that
>has sat
>around for a while.   I had forgotten or never knew that, but since I
>am
>getting charge from my current system, I am more concerned with that on
>any
>generator I might have sitting on the shelf.
>
>Just thought it was odd that a
>discharge condition would cause the Pertronix
>module to brown out
>occasionally.  Wanted to make sure that I shouldn't be
>looking at lighting
>system draw to ensure that don't have something weird
>that is actually causing
>a massive draw and just maxing out the
>Generator/regulator.
>
>Thanks,
>Steve
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net
>_______________________________________________
>
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>
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>
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>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 19:38:43 2013
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From: Jeff Carter <rising_tiger@hotmail.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 18:33:45 -0700
References: <mailman.4802.1370557552.1864.tigers@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[0D5CBAC0:01CE631F]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
 (Tiger Man)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I had similar symptoms 90 miles outside of Winnemucca, NV in the dead of
night.  Limped into town without headlights so as not to kill engine.  Next
morning, local station identified a dead cell in the battery.  New battery and
away we went.

Jeff



rising_tiger@hotmail.com

> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 15:59:12 -0600
> From: Tiger Man <tigerman67@hotmail.com>
> To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
> Message-ID: <BAY169-W282A020A28293E76EC7B15C1980@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi all,
>
> I thought I would mention this one to the list, make sure I am going in the
> right direction. If I start my tiger and run the RPM's up, My amp meter
shows
> about a 5 Amp charge (until the battery is charged back up). If I turn my
> headlights on (with the RPM's up) it shows about a 3 Amp discharge. The
other
> interesting side effect is while driving around with the headlights on, the
> car cuts out dramatically but momentarily... like the Pertronix ign module
is
> browning out or something?
>
> Anyway, since it charges at all, I assume that means that the generator
works,
> and that I should go look at the Voltage regulator first, and if that
checks
> out, then move on to check the generator. I think I still have a used spare
> generator on the shelf. Will the local parts houses even know how to test
> those correctly anymore if I bring one down to them.
>
> Its been alot of years since I have had to work on a generator problem, so
> thought I would try to do the research on them. I did run across the
comment
> about polarity/charge on the charging system, especially one that has sat
> around for a while. I had forgotten or never knew that, but since I am
> getting charge from my current system, I am more concerned with that on any
> generator I might have sitting on the shelf.
>
> Just thought it was odd that a discharge condition would cause the
Pertronix
> module to brown out occasionally. Wanted to make sure that I shouldn't be
> looking at lighting system draw to ensure that don't have something weird
that
> is actually causing a massive draw and just maxing out the
> Generator/regulator.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 23:54:17 2013
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From: "Tiger Man" <Tigerman67@hotmail.com>
To: "Jerry Mo Christopherson" <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>,
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY169-W282A020A28293E76EC7B15C1980@phx.gbl>
	<000e01ce6304$27598400$760c8c00$@suddenlink.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 23:29:32 -0600
	FILETIME=[0678CD40:01CE6340]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights  on
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Jerry,

I suppose I should have looked it up to start with, but I found a 
troubleshooting sheet from Pertronix that claims 8V is the lower limit.

While I think it would be tough to get the voltage that low in the system 
with a simple discharge, I am wondering if I simply left the ballast 
resistor on when I installed the Pertronix module.  That would drop the 
observed voltage a couple of Volts from what the rest of the car sees.

Might be interesting to remove the resistor and see what happens before I 
fix the charging system.

I think this cutout problem will go away when I fix the charging system 
problem, but it would be worrysome to think that if you lost your generator 
on a drive home at night if the pertronix module is going to stop the car 
from running.  You would hope that you could limp home as long as you didn't 
live too far away, just like you would with a points based car.

Thanks,
Steve

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jerry Mo Christopherson" <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 4:21 PM
To: "'Tiger Man'" <tigerman67@hotmail.com>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on

> I'm pretty sure the Pertronix needs a solid 12 volts.  If you are
> discharging with lights on you may not be getting full 12 to the ignition.
>
> Jerry Christopherson
> 9473187
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Tiger Man
> Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 4:59 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
>
> Hi all,
>
> I thought I would mention this one to the list, make sure I am going in 
> the
> right direction.  If I start my tiger and run the RPM's up, My amp meter
> shows about a 5 Amp charge (until the battery is charged back up).  If I
> turn my headlights on (with the RPM's up) it shows about a 3 Amp 
> discharge.
> The other interesting side effect is while driving around with the
> headlights on, the car cuts out dramatically but momentarily... like the
> Pertronix ign module is browning out or something?
>
> Anyway, since it charges at all, I assume that means that the generator
> works, and that I should go look at the Voltage regulator first, and if 
> that
> checks out, then move on to check the generator.  I think I still have a
> used spare generator on the shelf.  Will the local parts houses even know
> how to test those correctly anymore if I bring one down to them.
>
> Its been alot of years since I have had to work on a generator problem, so
> thought I would try to do the research on them.  I did run across the
> comment about polarity/charge on the charging system, especially one that
> has sat
> around for a while.   I had forgotten or never knew that, but since I am
> getting charge from my current system, I am more concerned with that on 
> any
> generator I might have sitting on the shelf.
>
> Just thought it was odd that a discharge condition would cause the 
> Pertronix
> module to brown out occasionally.  Wanted to make sure that I shouldn't be
> looking at lighting system draw to ensure that don't have something weird
> that is actually causing a massive draw and just maxing out the
> Generator/regulator.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 00:25:17 2013
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From: "Tiger Man" <Tigerman67@hotmail.com>
To: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY169-W282A020A28293E76EC7B15C1980@phx.gbl>
	<7495733F0DF7644CBABA4EA216EF4E151A200BFE@OLAWPA-EXMB06.ad.garmin.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 23:53:36 -0600
	FILETIME=[6334DAD0:01CE6343]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights  on
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Theo,

I didn't think to check what the headlights draw (according to the gauge) 
when the car isn't running.  But that would be a quick way to get a rough 
calibration on the gauge.  I'll have to do that next time I am out in the 
garage.

But even if the gauge isn't exceptionally accurate, it does show me charge 
vs discharge, so I know I have a problem.  Its just odd since I am now more 
use to alternator systems that generally either work, or don't work.  Don't 
think I have ever had a charging system problem before where it 'sort of' 
works

I beginning to wonder if I left my ballast resistor on when I connected the 
pertronix, so that might explain a larger voltage drop at the ignition than 
I could normally imagine from just a charging system problem.

I suppose it would be smart no matter what the outcome is of any of the 
problems to just go ahead and check various grounds on the car, because 
weird grounds do cause strange problems.

Sometimes I spend too much time thinking, Why would it do that, rather than 
just go make sure things are right (like grounds)

Thanks for help
Steve








--------------------------------------------------
From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 4:08 PM
To: "Tiger Man" <tigerman67@hotmail.com>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on

> First check that your ammeter is working at all and that it's wired 
> properly. With the ignition off, turn on the headlights. You should show 
> about 10 amps discharge. The horns should also draw about 6-10 amps if 
> they're adjusted properly, IIRC. The spec current draw for each horn is 
> given in the factory manual.
>
> It does sound like your regulator isn't doing the job. For proper 
> charging, the ignition system voltage needs to be about 13.5 to 14 volts 
> when the engine is running; you can check this with a voltmeter. Turning 
> on the lights should not cause a significant voltage drop. I'd expect to 
> see a couple of amps of charge current even at idle, and more immediately 
> after you've started the engine. If it won't charge unless you rev the 
> engine, maybe check the generator brushes?
>
> If you have sudden cutouts then maybe something isn't grounded properly. 
> Check the ground connections on the engine to chassis, from the generator 
> to the chassis, and from the battery to the chassis. Are your headlights 
> operating at full brightness? When the engine cuts out, do the headlights 
> suddenly dim? This might be hard to check without a helper...
>
> Theo
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
>> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tiger Man
>> Sent: June 6, 2013 3:59 PM
>> To: tigers@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I thought I would mention this one to the list, make sure I am going in
>> the right direction.  If I start my tiger and run the RPM's up, My amp
>> meter shows about a 5 Amp charge (until the battery is charged back
>> up).  If I turn my headlights on (with the RPM's up) it shows about a 3
>> Amp discharge.  The other interesting side effect is while driving
>> around with the headlights on, the car cuts out dramatically but
>> momentarily... like the Pertronix ign module is browning out or
>> something?
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This email and any attachments are for the sole 
> use of the intended recipient(s) and contain information that may be 
> confidential and/or legally privileged. If you have received this email in 
> error, please notify the sender by reply email and delete the message. Any 
> disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this communication (including 
> attachments) by someone other than the intended recipient is prohibited. 
> Thank you.
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 07:41:39 2013
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Tiger Man <Tigerman67@hotmail.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights
  on
Thread-Index: AQHOYwEf0U4XSDDkUEOmf5qKYirOnJkpPIZggADX/ACAACl70A==
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 13:28:25 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights  on
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Steve,
With your Pertronix system, whether or not you use the ballast resistor should
depend on the coil you have. If you're using a stock or stock-replacement type
of coil then you need to use the ballast resistor. But you can wire it as
shown here:
http://members.shaw.ca/tsmit/tachmod/tachmod3.html#pe

which will still provide 12V to the Pertronix module as well as keeping the
original ballast resistor wiring and starter bypass for the ballast resistor
in place.

On the ammeter, also check that it does read zero when everything is off -
otherwise your charge/discharge measurements won't be quite right.

Good luck,
Theo



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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 11:00:18 2013
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From: "Thomas Prager" <tcprager@hotmail.com>
To: "tigers_United_forum" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 11:54:41 -0500
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Subject: [Tigers] article on Tigers at the USA today web site
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http://www.usatoday.com/story/driveon/2013/06/08/sunbeam-tiger-mike-michels-t
ell-us-about-your-car/2401749/<http://www.usatoday.com/story/driveon/2013/06/
08/sunbeam-tiger-mike-michels-tell-us-about-your-car/2401749/>
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 12:07:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger in USA Today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Nice car, belongs to Mike Michels, southern California. It was featured earlier (I think this year) on Jay Leno's Garage, so if you haven't learned enough about Mike's car
on USA Today, go to youtube and search for it. It is a sweet 1A(Oh, sorry, Terry. A B3820)

Rande
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 14:18:08 2013
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 16:11:08 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger in USA Today
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

pity there's no 'action footage' other that the throttle blip at the start.


On Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 3:07 PM, snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Nice car, belongs to Mike Michels, southern California. It was featured
> earlier (I think this year) on Jay Leno's Garage, so if you haven't learned
> enough about Mike's car
> on USA Today, go to youtube and search for it. It is a sweet 1A(Oh, sorry,
> Terry. A B3820)
>
> Rande
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 15:18:10 2013
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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2013 14:08:15 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] article on Tigers at the USA today web site
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Well, since it's a Southern California car, hopefully it'll be at Tigers 
United in a couple of weeks. :-)

David Sosna
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 15:50:21 2013
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To: sosnaenergyconsulting@cox.net, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] article on Tigers at the USA today web site
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Where?when will that be held?
 
 
In a message dated 6/9/2013 2:13:24 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
sosnaenergyconsulting@cox.net writes:

Well,  since it's a Southern California car, hopefully it'll be at Tigers 
United  in a couple of weeks. :-)

David  Sosna
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From: "Lynn" <cars@wt-inc.com>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] article on Tigers at the USA today web site
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

June 20 -23 at Big Bear

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 3:42 PM
To: sosnaenergyconsulting@cox.net; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] article on Tigers at the USA today web site

Where?when will that be held?
 
 
In a message dated 6/9/2013 2:13:24 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
sosnaenergyconsulting@cox.net writes:

Well,  since it's a Southern California car, hopefully it'll be at Tigers
United  in a couple of weeks. :-)

David  Sosna
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 14:07:40 2013
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From: "Alvin Johnson" <twojohnsons@cox.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 15:58:08 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I just bought a set of well-used tools off Craig's list for my son.
While checking them out, I noticed a virtually new, humungous 32mm socket.
I suspect this was a one-use unique item for a particular need on a particular
car---any ideas?
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 14:11:21 2013
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References: <99C4BEED5D08436B82D527BC7FBE1220@3bfd27b5ca44402>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 16:06:07 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: Alvin Johnson <twojohnsons@cox.net>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have one of those too.  1-1/4".  Might have been either a hub  nut, a
balancer bolt, or an oil filter housing.  Don't remember exactly why I
bought it.  I seem to remember hub nut for a jaguar IRS might be that size?

On Monday, June 10, 2013, Alvin Johnson wrote:

> I just bought a set of well-used tools off Craig's list for my son.
> While checking them out, I noticed a virtually new, humungous 32mm socket.
> I suspect this was a one-use unique item for a particular need on a
> particular
> car---any ideas?
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 14:11:36 2013
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From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 16:05:44 -0400
To: Alvin Johnson <twojohnsons@cox.net>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

They are pretty common for axle nuts on Hondas

Michael Shortt
Savannah, GA


On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 3:58 PM, Alvin Johnson <twojohnsons@cox.net> wrote:

> I just bought a set of well-used tools off Craig's list for my son.
> While checking them out, I noticed a virtually new, humungous 32mm socket.
> I suspect this was a one-use unique item for a particular need on a
> particular
> car---any ideas?
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
>
>
>


-- 







Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael@michaelshortt.com
912-232-9390


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 14:15:29 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Alvin Johnson'" <twojohnsons@cox.net>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 16:09:58 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5mFXHOIXttG9SgTZGkDmsGRiY4hwAAHHMg
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Alvin
	Not only do I have a 32mm socket, I also have a 36mm and a 1 5/16"
which is almost 38mm.
They are for axle nuts.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alvin Johnson
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 3:58 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool


I just bought a set of well-used tools off Craig's list for my son. While
checking them out, I noticed a virtually new, humungous 32mm socket. I
suspect this was a one-use unique item for a particular need on a particular
car---any ideas? _______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 15:12:56 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 14:07:37 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
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I use a socket that size to torque my original Tiger air clean down to 450 
Ft. Lb's so no one steals it. Seriously though, as others have said, axle 
nuts. Perticularly for front wheel drive cars.  Did it come with the 
appropriately sized breaker bar?  Some of those nuts require a force beyond 
human capability.
Tom 
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "owain.lloyd@gmail.com" <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
Thread-Index: AQHOZhVw3YaCcEAI3kKfkiQPCkAsA5kvs4mA//+/iAA=
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 21:16:57 +0000
References: <99C4BEED5D08436B82D527BC7FBE1220@3bfd27b5ca44402>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
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That would be for the Tiger's rear axle nuts. 125 or 150 foot-pounds torque
spec IIRC... you definitely need the big breaker bar to go along with that
socket.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Owain Lloyd
> Sent: June 10, 2013 2:06 PM
> To: Alvin Johnson
> Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
>
> I have one of those too.  1-1/4".  Might have been either a hub  nut, a
> balancer bolt, or an oil filter housing.  Don't remember exactly why I
> bought it.  I seem to remember hub nut for a jaguar IRS might be that
> size?
>


________________________________

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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 14:22:16 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have had to use a similar breaker bar and 5' long pipe extention for
VW/Porsche rear axles, which are 36 mm.  I once broke the breaker bar
before I broke free the nut.  And this was a particularly massive breaker
bar - I guess not massive enough.


On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>wrote:

> That would be for the Tiger's rear axle nuts. 125 or 150 foot-pounds torque
> spec IIRC... you definitely need the big breaker bar to go along with that
> socket.
>
> Theo
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Owain Lloyd
> > Sent: June 10, 2013 2:06 PM
> > To: Alvin Johnson
> > Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
> >
> > I have one of those too.  1-1/4".  Might have been either a hub  nut, a
> > balancer bolt, or an oil filter housing.  Don't remember exactly why I
> > bought it.  I seem to remember hub nut for a jaguar IRS might be that
> > size?
> >
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This email and any attachments are for the sole
> use of
> the intended recipient(s) and contain information that may be confidential
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> notify the sender by reply email and delete the message. Any disclosure,
> copying, distribution or use of this communication (including attachments)
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> someone other than the intended recipient is prohibited. Thank you.
> _______________________________________________
>
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 17:23:37 -0400
From: Chris Thompson <chris@cthompson.net>
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To: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
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Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got sockets that go up over two inches or so (heavy equipment) - 
what's so weird?  Was it 1/2" drive or something?

Chris
B382000331

On 6/10/2013 5:16 PM, Smit, Theo wrote:
> That would be for the Tiger's rear axle nuts. 125 or 150 foot-pounds torque
> spec IIRC... you definitely need the big breaker bar to go along with that
> socket.
>
> Theo
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 17:26:39 -0400
From: Tod Brown <todbrown@roadrunner.com>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Bad Fuel Pump?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello All:

Yesterday, Dexter Polistock and I took our Tigers to a small foreign car 
show on the village green in Camden, Maine. Camden is somewhat famous as 
the setting for the scandalous fifties movie, Peyton Place and is a 
lovely little village with a beautiful harbor on Penobscot Bay. On the 
way back to my home (about 15 miles), I had just made the turn off US 
Route 1 and was about a mile from home when my Tiger coughed once or 
twice and died. I pulled over and tried to restart without success. 
Further investigation revealed there was no gas in the carb and the fuel 
pump was not making its usual ticking noise. We wiggled the wires and 
gave the pump a couple of whacks without success. Pretty clearly it 
seemed, the fuel pump had given up the ghost. Eventually, we got the 
Tiger home to the garage thanks to Triple A. A couple of hours later, I 
went out to the garage and, for no particular reason, turned on the 
ignition only to be greeted with the normal clatter of the pump. Joseph 
Lucas playing with my mind, again.

The pump I have had in the car for about 30 years was a replacement for 
the SU that bit the dust way back when and has been dead reliable for 
all that time. On the pump it says "Auto Pump" and has a sticker that 
says "AP 11" and "Made in N.Z." It obviously has the traditional points 
(hence the ticking) to do the switching but was one of the new breed of 
solid state pumps that so improved the longevity (no self-respecting SU 
would have lasted 30 years, I don't think, without frying its points). 
My guess is that the heat from the exhaust finally got to it and it 
packed it in, only to recover when things cooled off. However, before I 
bite the bullet and buy a new pump from Rick, I wanted to know if there 
is any other possible explanation that I can check out before buying a 
new pump?

Also, does anyone have any info about this particular fuel pump and 
whether it can be repaired?

In talking to the folks at SS and VB, it seems that SU replacement pumps 
are currently unavailable due to the gas being used in Britain playing 
havoc with their pumps, so I'm wondering what are the alternatives? I 
have heard of some people using a pump made by Facet and was wondering 
if anyone had the model number or if there are other alternatives? Any 
help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Tod
B38200238XFE
_______________________________________________

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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "chris@cthompson.net" <chris@cthompson.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
Thread-Index: AQHOZhVw3YaCcEAI3kKfkiQPCkAsA5kvs4mA//+/iACAAFYfgP//rJrg
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 21:29:29 +0000
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Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Not particularly weird, but it's the largest fastener on the car by some
margin (I think the next largest would be 15/16") and has the highest torque
spec by about 50% over any other nut or bolt on the car, which means that a
lot of people have nothing in their toolbox that will come close to either
fitting or being able to torque or untorque that nut. Not that that matters,
either... nobody in their right mind plays with the rear axle nuts on the
Tiger.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Thompson [mailto:chris@cthompson.net]
> Sent: June 10, 2013 3:24 PM
> To: Smit, Theo
> Cc: owain.lloyd@gmail.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
>
> I've got sockets that go up over two inches or so (heavy equipment) -
> what's so weird?  Was it 1/2" drive or something?
>
> Chris
> B382000331
>
> On 6/10/2013 5:16 PM, Smit, Theo wrote:
> > That would be for the Tiger's rear axle nuts. 125 or 150 foot-pounds
> > torque spec IIRC... you definitely need the big breaker bar to go
> > along with that socket.
> >
> > Theo
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>


________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 15:40:59 2013
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From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 17:29:43 -0400
To: Chris Thompson <chris@cthompson.net>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Best recipe for a solution to loosen stuck bolts is 50% benzene and 50% ATF,
it is quite volatile, just make as much as you need, you can't or shouldn't
keep it stored.

Michael Shortt


On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 5:23 PM, Chris Thompson <chris@cthompson.net> wrote:

> I've got sockets that go up over two inches or so (heavy equipment) -
> what's so weird?  Was it 1/2" drive or something?
>
> Chris
> B382000331
>
>
> On 6/10/2013 5:16 PM, Smit, Theo wrote:
>
>> That would be for the Tiger's rear axle nuts. 125 or 150 foot-pounds
>> torque
>> spec IIRC... you definitely need the big breaker bar to go along with that
>> socket.
>>
>> Theo
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/tigers/michael@**
> michaelshortt.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com>
>
>
>


-- 







Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael@michaelshortt.com
912-232-9390


This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
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that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 14:36:09 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Tod Brown <todbrown@roadrunner.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bad Fuel Pump?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Too bad my dad's not here.  He loved to talk about using
obligatory bumpershoots to whack SU fuel pumps to get them going again, and
talk about the leather origins of the Skinners Union.  And, he definitely
had an affinity for those in Australia and New Zealand.  So, I'm sure he
would have come up with some lower hemisphere alternative to the
bumpershoot.  Then, of course, all your problems would be solved!

As an aside, I did rebuild the stock fuel pump using the kit from SS, and
am happy with the results.  However, I realize you don't have the SU pump
to rebuild it.  There are so many opinions on fuel pumps it makes my head
spin.  I've had a Facet on my Alpine for about 20 years with no issues at
all.  I was going to go with a Carter rotary pump for my 912, but decided
to rebuild and stick with the stock mechanical pump.  If any of them fail,
I'll probably use the Carter - with a fuel regulator of course.


On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Tod Brown <todbrown@roadrunner.com> wrote:

> Hello All:
>
> Yesterday, Dexter Polistock and I took our Tigers to a small foreign car
> show on the village green in Camden, Maine. Camden is somewhat famous as
> the setting for the scandalous fifties movie, Peyton Place and is a lovely
> little village with a beautiful harbor on Penobscot Bay. On the way back to
> my home (about 15 miles), I had just made the turn off US Route 1 and was
> about a mile from home when my Tiger coughed once or twice and died. I
> pulled over and tried to restart without success. Further investigation
> revealed there was no gas in the carb and the fuel pump was not making its
> usual ticking noise. We wiggled the wires and gave the pump a couple of
> whacks without success. Pretty clearly it seemed, the fuel pump had given
> up the ghost. Eventually, we got the Tiger home to the garage thanks to
> Triple A. A couple of hours later, I went out to the garage and, for no
> particular reason, turned on the ignition only to be greeted with the
> normal clatter of the pump. Joseph Lucas playing with my mind, again.
>
> The pump I have had in the car for about 30 years was a replacement for
> the SU that bit the dust way back when and has been dead reliable for all
> that time. On the pump it says "Auto Pump" and has a sticker that says "AP
> 11" and "Made in N.Z." It obviously has the traditional points (hence the
> ticking) to do the switching but was one of the new breed of solid state
> pumps that so improved the longevity (no self-respecting SU would have
> lasted 30 years, I don't think, without frying its points). My guess is
> that the heat from the exhaust finally got to it and it packed it in, only
> to recover when things cooled off. However, before I bite the bullet and
> buy a new pump from Rick, I wanted to know if there is any other possible
> explanation that I can check out before buying a new pump?
>
> Also, does anyone have any info about this particular fuel pump and
> whether it can be repaired?
>
> In talking to the folks at SS and VB, it seems that SU replacement pumps
> are currently unavailable due to the gas being used in Britain playing
> havoc with their pumps, so I'm wondering what are the alternatives? I have
> heard of some people using a pump made by Facet and was wondering if anyone
> had the model number or if there are other alternatives? Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tod
> B38200238XFE
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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Subject: [Tigers] fuel pump
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I use with no problem the Delphi FD0002 available at summit racing or any
parts house...
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 15:01:56 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] To rebuild, or not rebuild, the Holley
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I received the rebuild kit from Holley today.  The only reason I ordered
the kit was because of leaking fuel.  I have no indication that there is
anything else wrong with it.  In looking at the kit, I'm trying to decide
if I just replace the bowl gasket and accelerator pump. Or if I should
really tear it down for everything in the kit.

My dad would often say not to fix what is not broken.  But, then since it
started leaking on the outside, I'm not exactly sure how many of the o
rings on the inside may be having trouble.

The bummer is that it was not leaking on the back fuel bowl for the
secondary.  But, in removing the cover, the gasket stuck to much of it.
Somewhere I have a can of something called gasket remover.  I just can't
find it.  I might run by Pep Boys on the way home and see if I can find it.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 16:16:11 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 17:58:16 -0400
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com,"'Alvin Johnson'" <twojohnsons@cox.net>,
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
From: Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>
References: <99C4BEED5D08436B82D527BC7FBE1220@3bfd27b5ca44402>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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At 04:09 PM 6/10/2013, Ron Fraser wrote:
 >Alvin
 >       Not only do I have a 32mm socket, I also have a 36mm and a 1 5/16"
 >which is almost 38mm.
 >They are for axle nuts.

The 36mm works for the generator nut on the
air-cooled VW.  Check a fellow's tool kit.  If he
has a 36mm socket, he is a Beetle-head.

Marc


msmall@aya.yale.edu
Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 16:31:19 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 16:28:48 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:20.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
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michael@michaelshortt.com wrote:
> Best recipe for a solution to loosen stuck bolts is 50% benzene and 50% ATF,
> it is quite volatile, just make as much as you need, you can't or shouldn't
> keep it stored.

Or ATF and acetone, which is more readily available, usually in the 
paint section of a
well stocked hardware store.

mjb.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 16:42:03 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 18:36:38 -0400
From: Tony McNulty <bamcnulty@optonline.net>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
References: <99C4BEED5D08436B82D527BC7FBE1220@3bfd27b5ca44402>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
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Acetone was the fluid tested with ATF.  I have the list if anyone cares.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool


> michael@michaelshortt.com wrote:
>> Best recipe for a solution to loosen stuck bolts is 50% benzene and 50% 
>> ATF,
>> it is quite volatile, just make as much as you need, you can't or 
>> shouldn't
>> keep it stored.
>
> Or ATF and acetone, which is more readily available, usually in the paint 
> section of a
> well stocked hardware store.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 16:59:57 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 18:50:56 -0400
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
From: Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>
	mail.com>
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	55RPqscpN6Liw==
Subject: Re: [Tigers] To rebuild, or not rebuild, the Holley
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

At 06:01 PM 6/10/2013, Jay Laifman wrote:

 >My dad would often say not to fix what is not broken.  But, then since it
 >started leaking on the outside, I'm not exactly sure how many of the o
 >rings on the inside may be having trouble.
 >
 >I might run by Pep Boys on the way home and see if I can find it.

Your father and I spatted over that -- my take is, if you're going to 
do a job, then do the entire job and do it right.  But you are the 
Master of Your Own Fate, and I will be saddened to hear of your being 
burned to a cinder in the wreckage of your car.  <he grins>  Your 
father was one hell of an innovative fellow and I admired him 
greatly, even if he kept calling the serial number the 
'VIN'.  California gibberish.  <he grins again>

Ah, the Pep Boys.  Mannie, Moe, and Jack.  I named the Mud Turtle I 
hatched from an egg, 'Moe'.  That was back in '82, in a different 
universe, long ago and far away.  The standard Mud Turtle lives for 
five to ten years in the wild and, perhaps, fifteen when under proper 
care.  Moe is still with us and is still nasty as hell.  Aetate 31 
and hanging hard and tough.  He is the Sunbeam Alpine of the Turtle 
World.  (I have a lot more turtle tales to tell, especially as I keep 
my back lawn mowed through the services of two Sulcata Tortoises.)

Be well, Jay

Marc




It is a good world for doing good deeds.
-- Nathaniel the Faun
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 17:21:03 2013
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 19:15:54 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] To rebuild, or not rebuild, the Holley
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay,

I'm with Mrc on this, if you're gonna do it, do all of it.

But then...

As to the leak, it could be the pump, as we suspect, or it could be a
sticking needle valve or a mis-adjusted float (among many other things). As
long as you have the bowl off, why not check them first. See PP 20-21 of
the May - June 2013 Summit catalog for float bowl gaskets, and needle
valves, etc..

Tom
'67 Mark 2


On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 6:50 PM, Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>wrote:

> At 06:01 PM 6/10/2013, Jay Laifman wrote:
>
> >My dad would often say not to fix what is not broken.  But, then since it
> >started leaking on the outside, I'm not exactly sure how many of the o
> >rings on the inside may be having trouble.
> >
> >I might run by Pep Boys on the way home and see if I can find it.
>
> Your father and I spatted over that -- my take is, if you're going to do a
> job, then do the entire job and do it right.  But you are the Master of
> Your Own Fate, and I will be saddened to hear of your being burned to a
> cinder in the wreckage of your car.  <he grins>  Your father was one hell
> of an innovative fellow and I admired him greatly, even if he kept calling
> the serial number the 'VIN'.  California gibberish.  <he grins again>
>
> Ah, the Pep Boys.  Mannie, Moe, and Jack.  I named the Mud Turtle I
> hatched from an egg, 'Moe'.  That was back in '82, in a different universe,
> long ago and far away.  The standard Mud Turtle lives for five to ten years
> in the wild and, perhaps, fifteen when under proper care.  Moe is still
> with us and is still nasty as hell.  Aetate 31 and hanging hard and tough.
>  He is the Sunbeam Alpine of the Turtle World.  (I have a lot more turtle
> tales to tell, especially as I keep my back lawn mowed through the services
> of two Sulcata Tortoises.)
>
> Be well, Jay
>
> Marc
>
>
>
>
> It is a good world for doing good deeds.
> -- Nathaniel the Faun
>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/tigers/tkparker1941@*
> *gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com>
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 19:22:51 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: pldflyer@aol.com
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 5:54 PM, <pldflyer@aol.com> wrote:

> Delphi FD0002



Checked. That's a 20# pressure fuel pump. I hope you're not using it with a
carb.

Tom
/67 Mark 2
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	<CAAjp1z4+bkn6WeLpLAtGR9kS4DKZA+xZZiULQiFYCEcHmRQBjw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 19:26:27 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>, Tod Brown <todbrown@roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bad Fuel Pump?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Check Moss Motors for the pump. If it's going to a carburetor make sure the
pressure's below @ 4 pounds.

Tom
'67 Mark 2


On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 5:36 PM, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

> Too bad my dad's not here.  He loved to talk about using
> obligatory bumpershoots to whack SU fuel pumps to get them going again, and
> talk about the leather origins of the Skinners Union.  And, he definitely
> had an affinity for those in Australia and New Zealand.  So, I'm sure he
> would have come up with some lower hemisphere alternative to the
> bumpershoot.  Then, of course, all your problems would be solved!
>
> As an aside, I did rebuild the stock fuel pump using the kit from SS, and
> am happy with the results.  However, I realize you don't have the SU pump
> to rebuild it.  There are so many opinions on fuel pumps it makes my head
> spin.  I've had a Facet on my Alpine for about 20 years with no issues at
> all.  I was going to go with a Carter rotary pump for my 912, but decided
> to rebuild and stick with the stock mechanical pump.  If any of them fail,
> I'll probably use the Carter - with a fuel regulator of course.
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Tod Brown <todbrown@roadrunner.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hello All:
> >
> > Yesterday, Dexter Polistock and I took our Tigers to a small foreign car
> > show on the village green in Camden, Maine. Camden is somewhat famous as
> > the setting for the scandalous fifties movie, Peyton Place and is a
> lovely
> > little village with a beautiful harbor on Penobscot Bay. On the way back
> to
> > my home (about 15 miles), I had just made the turn off US Route 1 and was
> > about a mile from home when my Tiger coughed once or twice and died. I
> > pulled over and tried to restart without success. Further investigation
> > revealed there was no gas in the carb and the fuel pump was not making
> its
> > usual ticking noise. We wiggled the wires and gave the pump a couple of
> > whacks without success. Pretty clearly it seemed, the fuel pump had given
> > up the ghost. Eventually, we got the Tiger home to the garage thanks to
> > Triple A. A couple of hours later, I went out to the garage and, for no
> > particular reason, turned on the ignition only to be greeted with the
> > normal clatter of the pump. Joseph Lucas playing with my mind, again.
> >
> > The pump I have had in the car for about 30 years was a replacement for
> > the SU that bit the dust way back when and has been dead reliable for all
> > that time. On the pump it says "Auto Pump" and has a sticker that says
> "AP
> > 11" and "Made in N.Z." It obviously has the traditional points (hence the
> > ticking) to do the switching but was one of the new breed of solid state
> > pumps that so improved the longevity (no self-respecting SU would have
> > lasted 30 years, I don't think, without frying its points). My guess is
> > that the heat from the exhaust finally got to it and it packed it in,
> only
> > to recover when things cooled off. However, before I bite the bullet and
> > buy a new pump from Rick, I wanted to know if there is any other possible
> > explanation that I can check out before buying a new pump?
> >
> > Also, does anyone have any info about this particular fuel pump and
> > whether it can be repaired?
> >
> > In talking to the folks at SS and VB, it seems that SU replacement pumps
> > are currently unavailable due to the gas being used in Britain playing
> > havoc with their pumps, so I'm wondering what are the alternatives? I
> have
> > heard of some people using a pump made by Facet and was wondering if
> anyone
> > had the model number or if there are other alternatives? Any help would
> be
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Tod
> > B38200238XFE
> > ______________________________**_________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<
> http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/tigers/jay.laifman@**
> > gmail.com<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 16:39:09 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>, pldflyer@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

That better be some needle valve!

FWIW, there are quite a lot of posts in the archives about the correct
pressure based upon carb, engine, etc.  But, yes, certainly none of them
come close to 20, let alone double digits.


On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 4:22 PM, Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 5:54 PM, <pldflyer@aol.com> wrote:
>
> > Delphi FD0002
>
>
>
> Checked. That's a 20# pressure fuel pump. I hope you're not using it with a
> carb.
>
> Tom
> /67 Mark 2
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 17:58:01 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Tony McNulty'" <bamcnulty@optonline.net>, "'Mark J Bradakis'"
	<mark@bradakis.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 19:46:50 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5mKwmKrMykaeWTRjKXomNKL0WNSAACZ7Sw
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-06-10_07:2013-06-10,2013-06-10,1970-01-01
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have used straight ATF with very good success as well.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tony McNulty
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 6:37 PM
To: Mark J Bradakis; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool


Acetone was the fluid tested with ATF.  I have the list if anyone cares.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool


> michael@michaelshortt.com wrote:
>> Best recipe for a solution to loosen stuck bolts is 50% benzene and 
>> 50%
>> ATF,
>> it is quite volatile, just make as much as you need, you can't or 
>> shouldn't
>> keep it stored.
>
> Or ATF and acetone, which is more readily available, usually in the 
> paint
> section of a
> well stocked hardware store.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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-----
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 17:58:24 2013
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From: "Jeff Feit" <jeff@feitmail.com>
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Tigers] More random questions...
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the replies. Just getting back to this.

 

You are all correct that it is indeed a MK1, not a MK1A. hard boot and all.

 

After getting apart, it has an aluminum front cover and an aluminum water
pump with the "good" impeller (cast with a closed back, not a stamped one).

 

Does anyone have any insight on where I can get replacement engine mounts?
Are they a Ford part? They sure look like a Mustang mount, but I don't have
one to compare it to.

 

Thanks,

Jeff
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] fuel pump
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 23:54:23 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The Facet pumps are available in a wide range of flow and pressure limits.
They also have a cylindrical pump that can support higher power engines:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=FACET

For carbs, also remember that the way the floats are hung and how you drive
(autocross) can impact the peak pressure that the needle and seat will
withstand.

Cheers,
Theo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
> Sent: June 10, 2013 5:39 PM
> To: Tom Parker
> Cc: LIST TIGER; pldflyer@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump
>
> That better be some needle valve!
>
> FWIW, there are quite a lot of posts in the archives about the correct
> pressure based upon carb, engine, etc.  But, yes, certainly none of
> them come close to 20, let alone double digits.
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 4:22 PM, Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>

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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Tod Brown'" <todbrown@roadrunner.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 20:04:00 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bad Fuel Pump?
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Tod
	I just went through that last summer.  There are reports that
alcohol in the fuel will deteriorate old rubber parts.

1 - check to make sure the filter or the line to the filter is not plugged -
I had a clog near the filter

2 - set up a flow rate test for your fuel pump  - extend the line you just
checked to a big bucket and run a timed flow
When I did this the fuel flow rate was very poor and there were black specks
in the fuel - fuel pump and bellows material

If the flow rate looks good maybe you should consider a heat shield between
the muffler and the pump or move the pump to the trunk.  I think there is an
article on TigersUnited for the heat shield.

I placed my fuel pump in the trunk many years ago.  I installed a Puralator
electronic cube pump this time.  It is my understanding the this cube fuel
pump is made by Facet now.  Facet make several style pump that should work.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tod Brown
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 5:27 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Bad Fuel Pump?


Hello All:

Yesterday, Dexter Polistock and I took our Tigers to a small foreign car
show on the village green in Camden, Maine. Camden is somewhat famous as
the setting for the scandalous fifties movie, Peyton Place and is a
lovely little village with a beautiful harbor on Penobscot Bay. On the
way back to my home (about 15 miles), I had just made the turn off US
Route 1 and was about a mile from home when my Tiger coughed once or
twice and died. I pulled over and tried to restart without success.
Further investigation revealed there was no gas in the carb and the fuel
pump was not making its usual ticking noise. We wiggled the wires and
gave the pump a couple of whacks without success. Pretty clearly it
seemed, the fuel pump had given up the ghost. Eventually, we got the
Tiger home to the garage thanks to Triple A. A couple of hours later, I
went out to the garage and, for no particular reason, turned on the
ignition only to be greeted with the normal clatter of the pump. Joseph
Lucas playing with my mind, again.

The pump I have had in the car for about 30 years was a replacement for
the SU that bit the dust way back when and has been dead reliable for
all that time. On the pump it says "Auto Pump" and has a sticker that
says "AP 11" and "Made in N.Z." It obviously has the traditional points
(hence the ticking) to do the switching but was one of the new breed of
solid state pumps that so improved the longevity (no self-respecting SU
would have lasted 30 years, I don't think, without frying its points).
My guess is that the heat from the exhaust finally got to it and it
packed it in, only to recover when things cooled off. However, before I
bite the bullet and buy a new pump from Rick, I wanted to know if there
is any other possible explanation that I can check out before buying a
new pump?

Also, does anyone have any info about this particular fuel pump and
whether it can be repaired?

In talking to the folks at SS and VB, it seems that SU replacement pumps
are currently unavailable due to the gas being used in Britain playing
havoc with their pumps, so I'm wondering what are the alternatives? I
have heard of some people using a pump made by Facet and was wondering
if anyone had the model number or if there are other alternatives? Any
help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Tod
B38200238XFE
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 18:13:48 2013
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 00:06:52 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
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Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] To rebuild, or not rebuild, the Holley
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay,
I would have to agree with your dad on this one.
I have Holley leaks every year or two.  Tightening the fuel bowl screws about
a quarter turn is
usually all it needs.  Rebuilding can be a nightmare.  At least the first time
I took apart my
600 (list 1850?) the fuel bowls were somehow glued on with some black stuff..
could have
been the DPO or I think I did hear Holley tried that to stop the leaks...  I
worked half a weekend
as I recall and ruined a perfectly good little screwdriver scrappin it..
Now if it is running bad, like tooo rich,  the accelerator pump or the
enrichment valve (I can't
recall now...) gets easily blown with a backfire... IF its running good,
tighten the screws
and see if that won't fix it..
Good luck!
Gary
    ----- Original Message -----  From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>  Sent: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 22:01:56 -0000
(UTC)  Subject: [Tigers] To rebuild, or not rebuild, the Holley    I received
the rebuild kit from Holley today.  The only reason I ordered  the kit was
because of leaking fuel.  I have no indication that there is  anything else
wrong with it.  In looking at the kit, I'm trying to decide  if I just replace
the bowl gasket and accelerator pump. Or if I should  really tear it down for
everything in the kit.    My dad would often say not to fix what is not
broken.  But, then since it  started leaking on the outside, I'm not exactly
sure how many of the o  rings on the inside may be having trouble.    The
bummer is that it was not leaking on the back fuel bowl for the  secondary.
But, in removing the cover, the gasket stuck to much of it.  Somewhere I have
a can of something called gasket remover.  I just can't  find it.  I might run
by Pep Boys on the way home and see if I can find it.
_______________________________________________    tigers@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 20:10:10 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a Red Holley pump @ 4 - 6#  ($109 at Summit) that I use as a
stand-by pump for when my old Bendix bites the dust. It runs continuously,
and is loud mounted in the boot. The only problem I had was when I put a
filter 'tween the tanks and the pump. They said that was a no-no. They were
right. I don't know how loud it would be under the baggage tray.

The number PLDFlyer gave  was for a 20 pound pressure pump according to
Summit Racing:

Fuel Pump, Electric, 23 gph Free Flow Rate, 20 psi Maximum Pressure, Buick,
Chevy, Ford, Subaru, Toyota, Each

Tom
'67 Mark 2


On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 7:54 PM, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>wrote:

> The Facet pumps are available in a wide range of flow and pressure limits.
> They also have a cylindrical pump that can support higher power engines:
> https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=FACET
>
> For carbs, also remember that the way the floats are hung and how you drive
> (autocross) can impact the peak pressure that the needle and seat will
> withstand.
>
> Cheers,
> Theo
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
> > Sent: June 10, 2013 5:39 PM
> > To: Tom Parker
> > Cc: LIST TIGER; pldflyer@aol.com
> > Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump
> >
> > That better be some needle valve!
> >
> > FWIW, there are quite a lot of posts in the archives about the correct
> > pressure based upon carb, engine, etc.  But, yes, certainly none of
> > them come close to 20, let alone double digits.
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 4:22 PM, Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
>
> ________________________________
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This email and any attachments are for the sole
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>
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Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump
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That is curious about there being a warning not to use a filter between the fuel tanks and the red Holley fuel pump. The instructions for my new black Holley 125 pump spec an 80-100 micron pre-filter for between the tanks and the pump and another, 70 micron or better filter at the carbs. 

Gene 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941@gmail.com> 
To: "Theo Smit" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com> 
Cc: "LIST TIGER" <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 7:10:10 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump 

I have a Red Holley pump @ 4 - 6# ($109 at Summit) that I use as a 
stand-by pump for when my old Bendix bites the dust. It runs continuously, 
and is loud mounted in the boot. The only problem I had was when I put a 
filter 'tween the tanks and the pump. They said that was a no-no. They were 
right. I don't know how loud it would be under the baggage tray. 

The number PLDFlyer gave was for a 20 pound pressure pump according to 
Summit Racing: 

Fuel Pump, Electric, 23 gph Free Flow Rate, 20 psi Maximum Pressure, Buick, 
Chevy, Ford, Subaru, Toyota, Each 

Tom 
'67 Mark 2 
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	vc6LSdBMpnJTw==
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Addition to this post: they also make mention that the pre-filter should be a screen type one. 


Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: genepadgett@comcast.net 
To: "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941@gmail.com> 
Cc: "LIST TIGER" <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 7:22:41 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump 

That is curious about there being a warning not to use a filter between the fuel tanks and the red Holley fuel pump. The instructions for my new black Holley 125 pump spec an 80-100 micron pre-filter for between the tanks and the pump and another, 70 micron or better filter at the carbs. 

Gene 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941@gmail.com> 
To: "Theo Smit" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com> 
Cc: "LIST TIGER" <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 7:10:10 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump 

I have a Red Holley pump @ 4 - 6# ($109 at Summit) that I use as a 
stand-by pump for when my old Bendix bites the dust. It runs continuously, 
and is loud mounted in the boot. The only problem I had was when I put a 
filter 'tween the tanks and the pump. They said that was a no-no. They were 
right. I don't know how loud it would be under the baggage tray. 

The number PLDFlyer gave was for a 20 pound pressure pump according to 
Summit Racing: 

Fuel Pump, Electric, 23 gph Free Flow Rate, 20 psi Maximum Pressure, Buick, 
Chevy, Ford, Subaru, Toyota, Each 

Tom 
'67 Mark 2 
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 17:30:16 -0700
From: <e.coiner@cox.net>
To: Jeff Feit <jeff@feitmail.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Tigers] More random questions...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes the motor mounts are Ford.

You want 64.5 or 65 motor mounts for a small block Ford


---- Jeff Feit <jeff@feitmail.com> wrote: 
> Thanks for the replies. Just getting back to this.
> 
>  
> 
> You are all correct that it is indeed a MK1, not a MK1A. hard boot and all.
> 
>  
> 
> After getting apart, it has an aluminum front cover and an aluminum water
> pump with the "good" impeller (cast with a closed back, not a stamped one).
> 
>  
> 
> Does anyone have any insight on where I can get replacement engine mounts?
> Are they a Ford part? They sure look like a Mustang mount, but I don't have
> one to compare it to.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers@autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner@cox.net
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 21:08:18 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: e.coiner@cox.net
Cc: Jeff Feit <jeff@feitmail.com>, LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] More random questions...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff,

The usual Ford mounts are 2220 / 2221 if memory serves, and they're "iffy".
Look back on the list posts, there was a U.S. manufacturer listed that MAY
have more accurate mounts. This was from last February, a post by A.C.Tynes:

"Does anybody have experience with Steele products engine mounts? I cross
referenced Ron's Ford part nums with Steele's catalog and came up with
20-0088-11 Rt and 20-0089-11 Left. $24.50 ea and made in USA."

The tread was interesting. I have not tried the Steele mounts;
changing engine mounts on a Tiger is not something someone does on a
whim. (which means mine are more or less o.k...)  But when the time
comes I will probably order a set from Steele. The problem I has with
the 2220 / 2221 mounts was the engine didn't sit straight in the bay
(yes I tried lifting / repositioning the engine), and the front
driveshaft u-joint attacked the driveshaft tunnel.

Tom

'67 Mark 2




On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 8:30 PM, <e.coiner@cox.net> wrote:

> Yes the motor mounts are Ford.
>
> You want 64.5 or 65 motor mounts for a small block Ford
>
>
> ---- Jeff Feit <jeff@feitmail.com> wrote:
> > Thanks for the replies. Just getting back to this.
> >
> >
> >
> > You are all correct that it is indeed a MK1, not a MK1A. hard boot and
> all.
> >
> >
> >
> > After getting apart, it has an aluminum front cover and an aluminum water
> > pump with the "good" impeller (cast with a closed back, not a stamped
> one).
> >
> >
> >
> > Does anyone have any insight on where I can get replacement engine
> mounts?
> > Are they a Ford part? They sure look like a Mustang mount, but I don't
> have
> > one to compare it to.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jeff
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 18:37:48 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird too (ATF/Acetone)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe it is the Acetone we have available here in California... .  I made 
the ATF/Acetone 50/50 mixture. I liberally applied it at least twice a day, 
for 5 days, on bolts/nuts that I had scraped the gunk and wire brushed the 
loose rust off.  The fasteners were still nearly impossible to get off.  And 
the area where the nut was on the bolt - was completely dry.  There was 
absolutely no penetration what so ever.  Not an odd bolt/nut either.  There 
were ten bolts/nuts I was attempting to remove.  But, being a crash test 
dummy for Murphy's Law what should I have expected.

Tom 
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 18:39:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary <maliburevue@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Since we're bragging about the size of our nuts (it's a guy thang), when I was
in college I used to work as a pipe fitter's helper at the Standard Oil
refinery in El Segrungo, CA. We had nuts that were 10" across the span and
weighed over a hundred pounds each. They went on the flange bolts to the
openings in pressure tanks. It was a butt-buster just getting those nuts
threaded onto the bolts. The socket to fit over these nuts was almost just as
heavy. The air hammer weighed over 350 lbs and had to be lifted using a
come-along or chain-fall. It had a 1" diameter, 2 feet long pipe coming out
each side that me and another poor sap held onto to stabilize it while it
drove the nut on. I can't remember what the torque was, but it was huge. It
was dirty hard work, but the pay was great for a poor starving college
student.
 
I can only imagine working on an ocean liner engine.
 
Gary

--- On Mon, 6/10/13, Chris Thompson <chris@cthompson.net> wrote:


From: Chris Thompson <chris@cthompson.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird tool
To: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, June 10, 2013, 2:23 PM


I've got sockets that go up over two inches or so (heavy equipment) -
what's so weird?  Was it 1/2" drive or something?

Chris
B382000331

On 6/10/2013 5:16 PM, Smit, Theo wrote:
> That would be for the Tiger's rear axle nuts. 125 or 150 foot-pounds torque
> spec IIRC... you definitely need the big breaker bar to go along with that
> socket.
>
> Theo
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	smtp104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com with SMTP; 10 Jun 2013 19:06:06 -0700 PDT
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 21:06:19 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird too (ATF/Acetone)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I've posted previously that the best penetrating lube made is "Kroil Oil".
They make it with different additives now but just buy the standard. Without it I believe I would have never pulled my axles. Just my 2cents worth. TtT 
Sent from Huawei Mobile

Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net> wrote:

>Maybe it is the Acetone we have available here in California... .  I made 
>the ATF/Acetone 50/50 mixture. I liberally applied it at least twice a day, 
>for 5 days, on bolts/nuts that I had scraped the gunk and wire brushed the 
>loose rust off.  The fasteners were still nearly impossible to get off.  And 
>the area where the nut was on the bolt - was completely dry.  There was 
>absolutely no penetration what so ever.  Not an odd bolt/nut either.  There 
>were ten bolts/nuts I was attempting to remove.  But, being a crash test 
>dummy for Murphy's Law what should I have expected.
>
>Tom 
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 20:39:57 2013
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From: "csx2282" <csx2282@sonic.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5209.1370909514.1864.tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 19:34:34 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carbs & Fuel Pumps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

According to the 1965 Ford Service Specification for Cars and Trucks, fuel 
pump pressure at 500 RPM for 260 & 289 CID engines is 4-6PSI, 1 pint of fuel 
within 20 seconds; minimum intake vacuum in inches of mercury 6.0.

Regarding the carburetor rebuild, since it's off the engine do the full 
Monty.  The extra effort is trivial compared to having to remove it a second 
time in case a partial fix doesn't solve the problem.

I have a Facet pump which has been working fine for quite a few years.  I 
bought mine from Aircraft Spruce.  I figured if it was safe and reliable 
enough for aircrafts, it should be okay for my car.  They are available in 
various pressure ranges.

Roland 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 20:41:17 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Thomas Witt'" <atwittsend@verizon.net>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 22:35:47 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5mRTbjnqMmOcfcReKPzt4tEyaKnwABVffg
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-06-11_01:2013-06-10,2013-06-11,1970-01-01
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird too (ATF/Acetone)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom
	I use straight ATF for a couple of reasons - Acetone flames when a
torch is applied - ATF usually just smokes but will flare up.  ATF seems to
be a great penetrating oil and I have a couple gallons of used ATF on hand.

If you can heat the bolts then put ATF on them it will help. I have done
this with bleeder screws and they are loose in about 5 minutes.   The heat
helps draw the ATF into the threads.

I soaked a bolt that I could not move with a 3/8 drive socket - in ATF
overnight - I removed the bolt with a 1/4 drive in the morning.  That result
got me hooked on ATF as a penetrating oil.

I believe the Acetone will help the ATF penetrate but I have had good
results with just ATF.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Witt
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 9:38 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off Topic---weird too (ATF/Acetone)


Maybe it is the Acetone we have available here in California... .  I made
the ATF/Acetone 50/50 mixture. I liberally applied it at least twice a day,
for 5 days, on bolts/nuts that I had scraped the gunk and wire brushed the
loose rust off.  The fasteners were still nearly impossible to get off.  And

the area where the nut was on the bolt - was completely dry.  There was
absolutely no penetration what so ever.  Not an odd bolt/nut either.  There
were ten bolts/nuts I was attempting to remove.  But, being a crash test
dummy for Murphy's Law what should I have expected.

Tom
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3199/6398 - Release Date: 06/10/13
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 06:09:23 2013
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 08:04:06 -0400 (EDT)
To: genepadgett@comcast.net, tkparker1941@gmail.com
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1370952246;
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I was advised that if the filter before the pump plugged up, the  pump 
would starve and burn up.  I put one in anyway :-)  Oh, and I put  a shut-off 
between the tanks and pump. Very handy to be able to shut off the  fuel supply 
for any reason.
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 6/10/2013 8:24:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
genepadgett@comcast.net writes:

That is  curious about there being a warning not to use a filter between 
the fuel tanks  and the red Holley fuel pump. The instructions for my new 
black Holley 125  pump spec an 80-100 micron pre-filter for between the tanks 
and the pump and  another, 70 micron or better filter at the carbs. 

Gene 
-----  Original Message -----
From: "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941@gmail.com>  
To: "Theo Smit" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com> 
Cc: "LIST TIGER"  <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 7:10:10 PM  
Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump 

I have a Red Holley pump @ 4 - 6#  ($109 at Summit) that I use as a 
stand-by pump for when my old Bendix  bites the dust. It runs continuously, 
and is loud mounted in the boot. The  only problem I had was when I put a 
filter 'tween the tanks and the pump.  They said that was a no-no. They 
were 
right. I don't know how loud it  would be under the baggage tray. 

The number PLDFlyer gave was for a 20  pound pressure pump according to 
Summit Racing: 

Fuel Pump,  Electric, 23 gph Free Flow Rate, 20 psi Maximum Pressure, 
Buick, 
Chevy,  Ford, Subaru, Toyota, Each 

Tom 
'67 Mark 2  
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 14:04:06 2013
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To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1370973602.9920.tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 12:58:49 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I very much agree regarding having a shut-off valve between the pump and 
tank.  I installed one too and it's come in handy more than once.  BTW, the 
Facet pump I installed has a built in filter.

Roland

----- Original Message ----- 
> From: CoolVT@aol.com
>
> I was advised that if the filter before the pump plugged up, the  pump
> would starve and burn up.  I put one in anyway :-)  Oh, and I put  a 
> shut-off
> between the tanks and pump. Very handy to be able to shut off the  fuel 
> supply
> for any reason.
> Mark L
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 14:51:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Autoweek Online: In and around a 1966 Sunbeam Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

More good PR for our Tigers. congrats Mike!

http://www.autoweek.com/article/20130611/CARNEWS01/130619971?utm_source=DailyDrive20130611&utm_medium=enewsletter&utm_term=article1&utm_content=20130611-Watch--In-and-around-a-1966-Sunbeam-Tiger-&utm_campaign=awdailydrive


Best regards,
Stephen Waybright
www.linkedin.com/in/gswaybright
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; auth=pass (LOGIN) smtp.auth=awtiger@cox.net
From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
To: "'Stephen Waybright'" <gswaybright@yahoo.com>,
  <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <1370987484.98692.YahooMailNeo@web121902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 17:42:49 -0500
Thread-Index: AQIW41yEUyt1P+4sa+suBams6/Miq5igIyMA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Autoweek Online: In and around a 1966 Sunbeam  Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Same here, Mike...congrats and great Tiger!!!!

Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Stephen Waybright
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2013 4:51 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Autoweek Online: In and around a 1966 Sunbeam Tiger

More good PR for our Tigers. congrats Mike!

http://www.autoweek.com/article/20130611/CARNEWS01/130619971?utm_source=Dail
yDrive20130611&utm_medium=enewsletter&utm_term=article1&utm_content=20130611
-Watch--In-and-around-a-1966-Sunbeam-Tiger-&utm_campaign=awdailydrive


Best regards,
Stephen Waybright
www.linkedin.com/in/gswaybright
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 16:54:13 2013
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 15:49:00 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Autoweek Online: In and around a 1966 Sunbeam  Tiger
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Can't say that I see any connection between the BRZ/FRS and the Tiger.
However, I do love the concept of the BRZ/FRS and have been dying to test
drive one.  The local Scion never seems to have them and the Subaru place
is even worse, and when I was there, the salesman was trying to convince me
why it was not a good car.  Gee, good move!


On Tue, Jun 11, 2013 at 2:51 PM, Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com>wrote:

> More good PR for our Tigers. congrats Mike!
>
>
> http://www.autoweek.com/article/20130611/CARNEWS01/130619971?utm_source=DailyDrive20130611&utm_medium=enewsletter&utm_term=article1&utm_content=20130611-Watch--In-and-around-a-1966-Sunbeam-Tiger-&utm_campaign=awdailydrive
>
>
> Best regards,
> Stephen Waybright
> www.linkedin.com/in/gswaybright
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 16:54:29 2013
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From: pldflyer@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 18:49:12 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: [Tigers] tiger fuel pump
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I have no idea where they get or mean by 20 psi MAX...it doesn't put out 20psi
obviously it would be too much.
I can tell you the pressure range of the Delphi pump is rated at 5.7-8.7psi
and I USE it on the stock 2 barrel without a pressure regulator with NO
problems.
If you want to show me something different than this spec and its reference
feel free....I would like to see it.
Just trying to help out the list...not everyone wants to use a facet, so I am
giving an alternative that works for me.
pldflyer
/4 mk1a's
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 18:21:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Terry Packer <packertl3@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Suggestions for Door Limiting Strap Bumpers?
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Inside each of our cars' doors is metal strap which limits how far the door can open. The straps are fitted with rubber bump stops and the ones on my car have perished badly. I wondered if anyone has renewed these or knows of a replacement for the rubber bumpers? Sunbeam Specialties offers a complete replacement strap - part #DP70 for $30 each. But mine are fine except for needing new rubber stops. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who's renewed these. 

Terry Packer
9470018
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 22:00:59 -0700
To: "tigers@autox.team.net Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

So I've proceeded a bit more on the carb.  The back float bowl was a disaster.
The gasket was really stuck on the carb.  I used the chemical gasket remover.
But it wasn't all that much help.  And, the cleaner and some of he small
scrapings ended up in the small holes.  What a mess.  I think I've cleaned
them all out now.

On the front float bowl, that came off and cleaned up easily enough.  But the
next part, the large piece that covers the power valve seems as stuck as the
rear float bowl gasket.  I'm thinking I might just leave that one alone at
this point.  Unless someone tells me it is critical to replace the power valve
and whatever else is in there.

Also, is there some reason my dad might have had the floats really high?  The
rear one was a little high from the "parallel to the ground" that the Holley
instructions suggest.  But the front one was really high - almost to the top.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 00:18:44 2013
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Holleys are supposedly very sensitive to float levels being set properly. Not knowing how the motor was running before, it is hard to guess for what he may have been compensating. Was it running rich? I believe the carbs are designed such that the secondary is set about 1/16 below the level of the primary in terms of where the sight window sits with respect to the floor of the bowl. I think that is to keep the secondaries for functioning before they are supposed to. I vaguely remember reading that the weight of the fuel has a major impact on when and how the jets function, and too much fuel in the bowl equals too much fuel weight. I read all this a long time ago in the Fisher book on Holley carbs. A great resource if you have not read it. 


Depending on when your carb was made, it may or may not have power valve blow-out protection in it. Holley makes a retrofit "kit" to add that to the older carbs. As long as you have the carb apart, I would suggest you add that protection if it does not already exist. The kit is pretty cheap. 


I expect the new gaskets you are installing are the "blue" ones. They seal better than the old ones, make taking things apart a lot easier in the future and I think are reusable (as long as they do not tear). 


Gene 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Laifman" <jay.laifman@gmail.com> 
To: "tigers@autox.team.net Den" <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 12:00:59 AM 
Subject: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls 

So I've proceeded a bit more on the carb. The back float bowl was a disaster. 
The gasket was really stuck on the carb. I used the chemical gasket remover. 
But it wasn't all that much help. And, the cleaner and some of he small 
scrapings ended up in the small holes. What a mess. I think I've cleaned 
them all out now. 

On the front float bowl, that came off and cleaned up easily enough. But the 
next part, the large piece that covers the power valve seems as stuck as the 
rear float bowl gasket. I'm thinking I might just leave that one alone at 
this point. Unless someone tells me it is critical to replace the power valve 
and whatever else is in there. 

Also, is there some reason my dad might have had the floats really high? The 
rear one was a little high from the "parallel to the ground" that the Holley 
instructions suggest. But the front one was really high - almost to the top. 
_______________________________________________ 

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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:12:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Off topic - BRZ
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay,
Let me try to understand this, your erstwhile salesman told you that you
shouldn't want to look at the BRZ/FRS, because why? He's out of stock, where's
a waiting list for it?
Did management tell him to stop selling them? Does
management know he's greeting prospective buyers like this? This is a hoot.
It's like a Ford salesman telling a prospective
Mustang buyer late in 1964,
"Nope, you don't want one of these, no one does".  I'd go, "Next salesman,
please."

Rande
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 08:31:47 2013
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To: "snakebit289" <snakebit289@yahoo.com>,"tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
From: jay.laifman@gmail.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 14:25:55 +0000
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off topic - BRZ
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ha! That pretty much sums it up. But I just want a test drive. I'm not a buyer any time soon.  So I didn't bother. 


Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:12:46 
To: tigers@autox.team.net<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Off topic - BRZ

Jay,
Let me try to understand this, your erstwhile salesman told you that you shouldn't want to look at the BRZ/FRS, because why? He's out of stock, where's a waiting list for it?
Did management tell him to stop selling them? Does management know he's greeting prospective buyers like this? This is a hoot. It's like a Ford salesman telling a prospective
Mustang buyer late in 1964, "Nope, you don't want one of these, no one does".  I'd go, "Next salesman, please."

Rande
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 08:32:34 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 14:27:11 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
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Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh  Jay...
I feel your pain!!  It brings it all back..  yup, your Holley must be from the
same vintage
as my 4bbl.   Now my much older 2bbl never had those stuck forever gaskets.
Be sure to use the plain paper ones when you put it back together,  they WILL
leak
but so did the others.
The floats get adjusted in place, wet.  At least that's an easy step.
As delivered, my 600cfm list 1850 was waaayy rich, I went down 2 jet sizes as
I recall.
I hope your dad's ox sensor is still working, that is a very good thing to
have!
Gary
    ----- Original Message -----  From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net Den <tigers@autox.team.net>  Sent: Wed, 12 Jun 2013
05:00:59 -0000 (UTC)  Subject: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls    So
I've proceeded a bit more on the carb.  The back float bowl was a disaster.
The gasket was really stuck on the carb.  I used the chemical gasket remover.
But it wasn't all that much help.  And, the cleaner and some of he small
scrapings ended up in the small holes.  What a mess.  I think I've cleaned
them all out now.    On the front float bowl, that came off and cleaned up
easily enough.  But the  next part, the large piece that covers the power
valve seems as stuck as the  rear float bowl gasket.  I'm thinking I might
just leave that one alone at  this point.  Unless someone tells me it is
critical to replace the power valve  and whatever else is in there.    Also,
is there some reason my dad might have had the floats really high?  The  rear
one was a little high from the "parallel to the ground" that the Holley
instructions suggest.  But the front one was really high - almost to the top.
_______________________________________________    tigers@autox.team.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 08:42:24 2013
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net Den"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls
Thread-Index: AQHOZysD/6pUHzq8AUSWQAmj78c1RpkyIWiw
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 14:28:46 +0000
References: <EC095CD3-5ADC-4746-B875-49D6D3DB19FE@gmail.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
x-originating-ip: [10.50.8.1]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Too-high floats are usually more trouble than too-low floats because you can
get unintended flooding during hard cornering or braking. If your needle and
seat size is marginal (or if the fuel pump/fuel line flow capacity is not that
good) then having the floats low can cause starvation on sustained
full-throttle due to insufficient fuel volume in the carb. I'm not familiar
with the float setting procedure on the Holley carbs, but I'm sure there are
specific tweaks that can be done, depending on the float bowl style, to
alleviate the common driving concerns.

On many Weber carbs, you had to be a bit careful because the float high limit
was set by flipping the assembly upside down, and this would sometimes lead
people to adjusting the things in the wrong direction.

Cheers,
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
> Sent: June 11, 2013 11:01 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net Den
> Subject: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls
>
> Also, is there some reason my dad might have had the floats really
> high?  The rear one was a little high from the "parallel to the ground"
> that the Holley instructions suggest.  But the front one was really
> high - almost to the top.
>

________________________________

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	Wed, 12 Jun 2013 09:44:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <1371046366.2681.YahooMailNeo@web161003.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:44:07 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off topic - BRZ
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Other than referring to it as the "local" dealer Jay never mentioned what is 
(or was) self proclaimed as the "World's largest auto mall."  Such a place 
resides about mid point between where Jay and I respectively live.  Thus, I 
assume this is the location where his interest was dismissed.  I'm not 
surprised.   Years ago I had a friend that went to the mall fully intended 
to purchase a Honda Odyssey. While he had the appearance of "Uncle Jed," he 
also had Jed's money - intending to pay cash for his purchase.  After 20 
minutes in the showroom, and being ignored by the sales staff, he left and 
took his money elsewhere.

Tom

> Jay,
> Let me try to understand this, your erstwhile salesman told you that you
> shouldn't want to look at the BRZ/FRS, because why? He's out of stock, 
> where's
> a waiting list for it?
> Did management tell him to stop selling them? Does
> management know he's greeting prospective buyers like this? This is a 
> hoot.
> It's like a Ford salesman telling a prospective
> Mustang buyer late in 1964,
> "Nope, you don't want one of these, no one does".  I'd go, "Next salesman,
> please."
>
> Rande
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Sensitivity: Normal
To: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>, tigers-bounces@autox.team.net,
	tigers@autox.team.net
From: jay.laifman@gmail.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 14:55:52 +0000
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off topic - BRZ
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep. Same exact thing happened to my father in law the successful cardiologist who went into Rusnak fully ready to drive off in an A8. 
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off topic - BRZ

Other than referring to it as the "local" dealer Jay never mentioned what is 
(or was) self proclaimed as the "World's largest auto mall."  Such a place 
resides about mid point between where Jay and I respectively live.  Thus, I 
assume this is the location where his interest was dismissed.  I'm not 
surprised.   Years ago I had a friend that went to the mall fully intended 
to purchase a Honda Odyssey. While he had the appearance of "Uncle Jed," he 
also had Jed's money - intending to pay cash for his purchase.  After 20 
minutes in the showroom, and being ignored by the sales staff, he left and 
took his money elsewhere.

Tom

> Jay,
> Let me try to understand this, your erstwhile salesman told you that you
> shouldn't want to look at the BRZ/FRS, because why? He's out of stock, 
> where's
> a waiting list for it?
> Did management tell him to stop selling them? Does
> management know he's greeting prospective buyers like this? This is a 
> hoot.
> It's like a Ford salesman telling a prospective
> Mustang buyer late in 1964,
> "Nope, you don't want one of these, no one does".  I'd go, "Next salesman,
> please."
>
> Rande
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 09:12:33 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:05:26 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1371049526;
	bh=GTvOGQQ5NXg/ibXuyAaE0tgUk7y5euuCorbQ8c7oeeA=;
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Also,
The "rebuild" level is probably a low level just to get you going.  The
instructions are
to always set the level wet after installation.
Float level has a minor(?) influence on mixture.  Your dad may have tweaked it
based
on his ox sensor readings?
Gary
    ----- Original Message -----  From: Theo Smit <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, tigers@autox.team.net Den
<tigers@autox.team.net>  Sent: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 14:28:46 -0000 (UTC)  Subject:
Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls    Too-high floats are usually more
trouble than too-low floats because you can  get unintended flooding during
hard cornering or braking. If your needle and  seat size is marginal (or if
the fuel pump/fuel line flow capacity is not that  good) then having the
floats low can cause starvation on sustained  full-throttle due to
insufficient fuel volume in the carb. I'm not familiar  with the float setting
procedure on the Holley carbs, but I'm sure there are  specific tweaks that
can be done, depending on the float bowl style, to  alleviate the common
driving concerns.    On many Weber carbs, you had to be a bit careful because
the float high limit  was set by flipping the assembly upside down, and this
would sometimes lead  people to adjusting the things in the wrong direction.
Cheers,  Theo    > -----Original Message-----  > From:
tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-  > bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jay Laifman  > Sent: June 11, 2013 11:01 PM  > To:
tigers@autox.team.net Den  > Subject: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls  >
> Also, is there some reason my dad might have had the floats really  > high?
The rear one was a little high from the "parallel to the ground"  > that the
Holley instructions suggest.  But the front one was really  > high - almost to
the top.  >    ________________________________    CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:
This email and any attachments are for the sole use of  the intended
recipient(s) and contain information that may be confidential  and/or legally
privileged. If you have received this email in error, please  notify the
sender by reply email and delete the message. Any disclosure,  copying,
distribution or use of this communication (including attachments) by  someone
other than the intended recipient is prohibited. Thank you.
_______________________________________________    tigers@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 09:17:18 2013
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	<5C403A2964454E1C8F58E349E2C8D905@optiplex3301>
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 11:11:26 -0400
To: Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Off topic - BRZ
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I spent many hours in showrooms as a kid and then as a teenager and as a
college student, upon graduation and securing a job, I wanted a new car the
next spring
I deliberately dressed down like a bum, dirty t-shirt, torn bluejeans,
raggedy tennis shoes and went car shopping.
It was 1984, I was 24 and was torn between a 944, an Audi Coupe or a VW
GTi, all at the same dealership.  Having visited the lot the night before
when it was closed,
I already knew what I wanted to talk about, what they cost, what features
they had and did my research on what i though I could buy each of them for.

The next day, I drove over in my TR-6 with the top down, parked it across
the street at a shopping center and walked onto the lot, not one, two or
three salesman ignored me.
but about six, the seventh was an older man, he was nice, friendly and very
down to earth.  He asked if he could help me and proceeded to let me drive
the three cars ( aggressively as well ),
went over the numbers with me and wasn't condescending in the slightest
manner.  I chose the Audi GT Coupe ( loved that car and always pretended it
was a Quattro ).
When we were doing the paperwork, I asked him why he waited on me, when
nobody else would.  He said that as a younger salesman, that " once upon a
time, a man dressed in overalls, covered in mud
and smelling of pig@#$% came into the dealership with two 16 year old
girls, they looked dirt poor.  Nobody with experience would wait on them
and so he as the new guy got the nod,
The girls walked around a bit and each selected a different colored drop
top Bug and the old man said to him, them'll do. The salesman said which
one and the old man said, both, and then he pulled out a
wad of 100's that would choke a horse. Turns out that he owed a pig farm, a
really big pig farm, like 5,000 pigs on hundreds of acres about 50 miles
outside of town. Ever since then, I wait on everybody."

Then I wrote a check for that car, $13,800 and he followed me in it so I
could drive my TR-6 home and then I took him back to the dealership.

Not that it matters to my story, but I slept that night in the front seat,
just smelling my first new car.


Michael Shortt


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 10:44 AM, Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net>wrote:

> Other than referring to it as the "local" dealer Jay never mentioned what
> is (or was) self proclaimed as the "World's largest auto mall."  Such a
> place resides about mid point between where Jay and I respectively live.
>  Thus, I assume this is the location where his interest was dismissed.  I'm
> not surprised.   Years ago I had a friend that went to the mall fully
> intended to purchase a Honda Odyssey. While he had the appearance of "Uncle
> Jed," he also had Jed's money - intending to pay cash for his purchase.
>  After 20 minutes in the showroom, and being ignored by the sales staff, he
> left and took his money elsewhere.
>
> Tom
>
>
>  Jay,
>> Let me try to understand this, your erstwhile salesman told you that you
>> shouldn't want to look at the BRZ/FRS, because why? He's out of stock,
>> where's
>> a waiting list for it?
>> Did management tell him to stop selling them? Does
>> management know he's greeting prospective buyers like this? This is a
>> hoot.
>> It's like a Ford salesman telling a prospective
>> Mustang buyer late in 1964,
>> "Nope, you don't want one of these, no one does".  I'd go, "Next salesman,
>> please."
>>
>> Rande
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/tigers/michael@**
> michaelshortt.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com>
>
>
>


-- 







Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael@michaelshortt.com
912-232-9390


This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
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To: "Gary Winblad" <garywinblad@comcast.net>,"tigers@autox.team.net Den"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
From: jay.laifman@gmail.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:31:41 +0000
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm worried that he never knew the bowls were way off and adjusted jets to compensate. It wouldn't be like him. But we'll see what happens when I reset them. The problem is that one is so off that there is no way the screw adjuster will be enough.  I'm going to have to bend it before reassembly. But thinking about how off it is, I'm also going to make sure it doesn't have any holes in it. 

Also, I'm used to Webers where the jets are easy to swap (and float level is critical).  I'm thinking the Holley is not so easy and he would have had to see the floats anyway to change the jets. 

The ox sensor.  I haven't paid too much attention to that other than to note it is frequently in the red. It has a row of lights going from green to yellow to red. Can someone tell me under what driving conditions should it be in the color bands?  Like idle, cruising, slowly accelerating and on it?  And is it likely to be accurate or could it be wrong because of a gazillion things?


Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:05:26 
To: tigers@autox.team.net Den<tigers@autox.team.net>
Cc: Jay Laifman<jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls

Also,
The "rebuild" level is probably a low level just to get you going.  The instructions are
to always set the level wet after installation.
Float level has a minor(?) influence on mixture.  Your dad may have tweaked it based
on his ox sensor readings?
Gary
    ----- Original Message -----  From: Theo Smit <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>  To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, tigers@autox.team.net Den <tigers@autox.team.net>  Sent: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 14:28:46 -0000 (UTC)  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls    Too-high floats are usually more trouble than too-low floats because you can  get unintended flooding during hard cornering or braking. If your needle and  seat size is marginal (or if the fuel pump/fuel line flow capacity is not that  good) then having the floats low can cause starvation on sustained  full-throttle due to insufficient fuel volume in the carb. I'm not familiar  with the float setting procedure on the Holley carbs, but I'm sure there are  specific tweaks that can be done, depending on the float bowl style, to  alleviate the common driving concerns.    On many Weber carbs, you had to be a bit careful because the float high limit  was set by flipping the assembly upside down, and this would sometimes lead  people to adjusting the things in the wrong direction.    Cheers,  Theo    > -----Original Message-----  > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-  > bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jay Laifman  > Sent: June 11, 2013 11:01 PM  > To: tigers@autox.team.net Den  > Subject: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls  >  > Also, is there some reason my dad might have had the floats really  > high?  The rear one was a little high from the "parallel to the ground"  > that the Holley instructions suggest.  But the front one was really  > high - almost to the top.  >    ________________________________    CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This email and any attachments are for the sole use of  the intended recipient(s) and contain information that may be confidential  and/or legally privileged. If you have received this email in error, please  notify the sender by reply email and delete the message. Any disclosure,  copying, distribution or use of this communication (including attachments) by  someone other than the intended recipient is prohibited. Thank you.  _______________________________________________    tigers@autox.team.net    Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums  Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 16:01:01 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: jay laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1371139262;
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Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ox sensor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay,
The ox sensor is probably a useful tool.  Unlike your dad, I never got around
to installing one but do
want to.  You should find the directions for the one you have.  Here is for
the Edlebrock:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/edl-6593.pdf
Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: jay laifman
To: Gary Winblad , tigers@autox.team.net Den
Sent: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:31:41 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls

I'm worried that he never knew the bowls were way off and adjusted jets to
compensate. It wouldn't be like him. But we'll see what happens when I reset
them. The problem is that one is so off that there is no way the screw
adjuster will be enough.  I'm going to have to bend it before reassembly. But
thinking about how off it is, I'm also going to make sure it doesn't have any
holes in it.

Also, I'm used to Webers where the jets are easy to swap (and float level is
critical).  I'm thinking the Holley is not so easy and he would have had to
see the floats anyway to change the jets.

The ox sensor.  I haven't paid too much attention to that other than to note
it is frequently in the red. It has a row of lights going from green to yellow
to red. Can someone tell me under what driving conditions should it be in the
color bands?  Like idle, cruising, slowly accelerating and on it?  And is it
likely to be accurate or could it be wrong because of a gazillion things?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerryFrom:  Gary Winblad
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:05:26 +0000 (UTC)To: tigers@autox.team.net DenCc:
Jay LaifmanSubject: Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls
Also,
The "rebuild" level is probably a low level just to get you going.  The
instructions are
to always set the level wet after installation.
Float level has a minor(?) influence on mixture.  Your dad may have tweaked it
based
on his ox sensor readings?
Gary
    ----- Original Message -----  From: Theo Smit   To: Jay Laifman ,
tigers@autox.team.net Den   Sent: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 14:28:46 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls    Too-high floats are
usually more trouble than too-low floats because you can  get unintended
flooding during hard cornering or braking. If your needle and  seat size is
marginal (or if the fuel pump/fuel line flow capacity is not that  good) then
having the floats low can cause starvation on sustained  full-throttle due to
insufficient fuel volume in the carb. I'm not familiar  with the float setting
procedure on the Holley carbs, but I'm sure there are  specific tweaks that
can be done, depending on the float bowl style, to  alleviate the common
driving concerns.    On many Weber carbs, you had to be a bit careful because
the float high limit  was set by flipping the assembly upside down, and this
would sometimes lead  people to adjusting the things in the wrong direction.
Cheers,  Theo    > -----Original Message-----  > From:
tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-  > bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jay Laifman  > Sent: June 11, 2013 11:01 PM  > To:
tigers@autox.team.net Den  > Subject: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls  >
> Also, is there some reason my dad might have had the floats really  > high?
The rear one was a little high from the "parallel to the ground"  > that the
Holley instructions suggest.  But the front one was really  > high - almost to
the top.  >    ________________________________    CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:
This email and any attachments are for the sole use of  the intended
recipient(s) and contain information that may be confidential  and/or legally
privileged. If you have received this email in error, please  notify the
sender by reply email and delete the message. Any disclosure,  copying,
distribution or use of this communication (including attachments) by  someone
other than the intended recipient is prohibited. Thank you.
_______________________________________________    tigers@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 11:24:36 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 10:18:03 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Float Adjustment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

In case anyone cares, I just spoke to Holley.  They said that to set the
floats, first take off the float adjustment set screw.  Then unscrew
completely the adjustment nut (which I at first thought was the locking
nut, with the screw as the adjustment).  Then make sure there are 4 threads
on the float adjuster showing outside of the float bowl.  Then bend the
tang so that the center line of the float is horizontal to the top of the
float bowl (whith the float bowl upside down).

Then go back and adjust with the engine running.  There is a great short
video on Holley's web site on that part.

Jay
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 14 19:46:32 2013
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	<45C631A18EFF4C149CC9F3E816518A55@DavePC>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 13:03:39 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ox sensor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks.  I can't tell you how many times my dad talked about making sure I
had a bung put in any car when I was having muffler work done.  Since
that's already there, and I'm sure your description of what I have is
accurate, I'll definitely look into a wide band meter.

Thanks again,
Jay



On Fri, Jun 14, 2013 at 1:00 PM, Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca> wrote:

>
> Jay:
>
> That sounds like a narrow-band A/F Meter. These were the first on the
> market as useful mass-produced mixture reading tools, but they were only
> accurate in a very narrow band either side of the 14.6 air/fuel ratio. They
> are not very useful beyond indicating this ratio under different
> throttle/load parameters, and 14.6 is not the correct mixture very often.
>
> Under load and big throttle openings you want rich to very rich mixtures
> (around 12/1) for max power and at light throttle openings you want ratios
> in the lean end (around 17 or 18/1) for good fuel economy. With your meter
> you can never be sure exactly what your air/fuel mixture ratio is, other
> than 14.6 which is chemically the perfect ratio for clean burning, but not
> for all throttle openings and load situations. BUT, getting your mixture to
> 14.6 at 650 rpm should give you a klller idle, and that's a good thing.
>
> I supercharged an MGB about 10 years ago and wide band meters and sensors
> were in the stratosphere price wise, so I bought one of these narrow band
> meters. It was marginally useful, but kept me from melting pistons which I
> did regularly before I got the meter.
>
> Wide band meters are infinitely more useful and accurate over the whole
> throttle/load range, and are now less expensive than what I (and likely
> your Dad) paid for our narrow band meters back in the day. Theyalso have
> USB ports to feed your computer, which opens up a whole new world of
> mixture control to we anals, which allows seriously accurate carb and
> ignition tuning, and you can print out the results to impress fellow
> obsessive compulsives....
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> Sent: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:31:41 -0000 (UTC)
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls
>
>
> The ox sensor.  I haven't paid too much attention to that other than to
> note
> it is frequently in the red. It has a row of lights going from green to
> yellow
> to red. Can someone tell me under what driving conditions should it be in
> the
> color bands?  Like idle, cruising, slowly accelerating and on it?  And is
> it
> likely to be accurate or could it be wrong because of a gazillion things?
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From: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>
To: "jay laifman" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
References: <479130400.206883.1371139261792.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 17:00:26 -0300
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Ox sensor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay:

That sounds like a narrow-band A/F Meter. These were the first on the market 
as useful mass-produced mixture reading tools, but they were only accurate 
in a very narrow band either side of the 14.6 air/fuel ratio. They are not 
very useful beyond indicating this ratio under different throttle/load 
parameters, and 14.6 is not the correct mixture very often.

Under load and big throttle openings you want rich to very rich mixtures 
(around 12/1) for max power and at light throttle openings you want ratios 
in the lean end (around 17 or 18/1) for good fuel economy. With your meter 
you can never be sure exactly what your air/fuel mixture ratio is, other 
than 14.6 which is chemically the perfect ratio for clean burning, but not 
for all throttle openings and load situations. BUT, getting your mixture to 
14.6 at 650 rpm should give you a klller idle, and that's a good thing.

I supercharged an MGB about 10 years ago and wide band meters and sensors 
were in the stratosphere price wise, so I bought one of these narrow band 
meters. It was marginally useful, but kept me from melting pistons which I 
did regularly before I got the meter.

Wide band meters are infinitely more useful and accurate over the whole 
throttle/load range, and are now less expensive than what I (and likely your 
Dad) paid for our narrow band meters back in the day. Theyalso have USB 
ports to feed your computer, which opens up a whole new world of mixture 
control to we anals, which allows seriously accurate carb and ignition 
tuning, and you can print out the results to impress fellow obsessive 
compulsives....

Dave




 Sent: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 15:31:41 -0000 (UTC)
 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Holley Rebuild - float bowls


 The ox sensor.  I haven't paid too much attention to that other than to 
note
 it is frequently in the red. It has a row of lights going from green to 
yellow
 to red. Can someone tell me under what driving conditions should it be in 
the
 color bands?  Like idle, cruising, slowly accelerating and on it?  And is 
it
 likely to be accurate or could it be wrong because of a gazillion things?
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


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Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 10:16:05 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Float Bowl Update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

FWIW, if anyone still cares, I adjusted the needle valves for the floats
last night.  I previously indicated one was way out of wack.  While it was
off, I was surprised how few turns of the adjuster moved it back into
place.  So, it might not have been as far off as I first thought.  I'll be
careful to note how many turns it takes for it to go from this basic
setting to the correct setting when the car is running and the plug is out.

By the way, someone emailed me directly to tell me that he solved his
leaking problems by replacing the little washers on the float bowl bolts
with nylon washers from Moroso.  I bought those washers too - because it
was a great idea.  But last night I discovered the Holley rebuild kit I got
from Holley already comes with them.  So, I have an extra set if anyone
needs them!

Jay
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 11:31:45 2013
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 12:30:22 -0500
From: <deiland1@elp.rr.com>
To: Jensen List <JENSEN-cars@british-steel.org>,  Tiger List
	<tigers@Autox.Team.Net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [Tigers] Happy Fathers Day
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Just thought I would wish all those fathers who are on these lists, and share my passion for our cars, a Happy Fathers Day. 

Dan Eiland
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 17:45:13 +0000 (UTC)
From: genepadgett@comcast.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Happy Fathers Day
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Thanks Dan, 


+1 



Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: deiland1@elp.rr.com 
To: "Jensen List" <JENSEN-cars@british-steel.org>, "Tiger List" <tigers@Autox.Team.Net> 
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 12:30:22 PM 
Subject: [Tigers] Happy Fathers Day 

Just thought I would wish all those fathers who are on these lists, and share my passion for our cars, a Happy Fathers Day. 

Dan Eiland 
_______________________________________________ 

tigers@autox.team.net 

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 12:21:47 2013
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 11:19:40 -0700
To: "tigers@autox.team.net Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Got it all back together and went for a drive.

Like I said, the good news is that it is not leaking gas anymore.

The bad news is that it doesn't want to run below 2,000 rpm.  As it warmed up,
it seemed like the rpm range needed to be even higher.  I basically had to
keep the rpm above 2,000 or 2,500 at all times or it stalled.

Any thoughts on what I've done wrong?

One thing I don't fully understand, and perhaps it is part of the problem, the
rectangular flap that is part of the choke, it seems to be open all the time.
I would have thought that when the car was cold, it would be closer to closed.
Maybe I flipped something when I put that back together.  But, even with wide
open, once the engine was warm, I would have thought it would run fine.

Over 2,500, it was nice, smooth and powerful.

Thanks for any thoughts.

And Happy Father's Day to all the fathers out there.
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 12:29:13 2013
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From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 14:27:23 -0400
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Is that an electric choke? Have you confirmed that power is going to it?

Michael


On Sun, Jun 16, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

> Got it all back together and went for a drive.
>
> Like I said, the good news is that it is not leaking gas anymore.
>
> The bad news is that it doesn't want to run below 2,000 rpm.  As it warmed
> up,
> it seemed like the rpm range needed to be even higher.  I basically had to
> keep the rpm above 2,000 or 2,500 at all times or it stalled.
>
> Any thoughts on what I've done wrong?
>
> One thing I don't fully understand, and perhaps it is part of the problem,
> the
> rectangular flap that is part of the choke, it seems to be open all the
> time.
> I would have thought that when the car was cold, it would be closer to
> closed.
> Maybe I flipped something when I put that back together.  But, even with
> wide
> open, once the engine was warm, I would have thought it would run fine.
>
> Over 2,500, it was nice, smooth and powerful.
>
> Thanks for any thoughts.
>
> And Happy Father's Day to all the fathers out there.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
>
>
>


-- 







Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael@michaelshortt.com
912-232-9390


This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
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_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 12:44:44 2013
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To: michael@michaelshortt.com
From: jay.laifman@gmail.com
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 18:43:19 +0000
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Vacuum choke. Good idea though. Thanks. 
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 14:27:23 
To: Jay Laifman<jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Den<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking

Is that an electric choke? Have you confirmed that power is going to it?

Michael


On Sun, Jun 16, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

> Got it all back together and went for a drive.
>
> Like I said, the good news is that it is not leaking gas anymore.
>
> The bad news is that it doesn't want to run below 2,000 rpm.  As it warmed
> up,
> it seemed like the rpm range needed to be even higher.  I basically had to
> keep the rpm above 2,000 or 2,500 at all times or it stalled.
>
> Any thoughts on what I've done wrong?
>
> One thing I don't fully understand, and perhaps it is part of the problem,
> the
> rectangular flap that is part of the choke, it seems to be open all the
> time.
> I would have thought that when the car was cold, it would be closer to
> closed.
> Maybe I flipped something when I put that back together.  But, even with
> wide
> open, once the engine was warm, I would have thought it would run fine.
>
> Over 2,500, it was nice, smooth and powerful.
>
> Thanks for any thoughts.
>
> And Happy Father's Day to all the fathers out there.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
>
>
>


-- 







Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael@michaelshortt.com
912-232-9390


This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 14:59:08 -0400
From: Don Antilla <fast427@sbcglobal.net>
To: <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, <michael@michaelshortt.com>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd do a vacuum check with a gauge plumbed into the intake manifold. You
should measure around 19 inches negative pressure if your intake and carb
gaskets are all sealed properly.

It sounds like your idle circuit is not functioning. Did you set your two
idle adjustments screws?
If not, turn both idle slotted screws in (clockwise) gently until they
bottom out (do not force them).
Then turn each out (counterclockwise) for 1.5 turns for the initial
setting.

If the idle settles down, good.
If not, and if your vacuum reading was around 19 inches, then adjust your
2000  RPM down until it almost stalls, then turn your idle screws OUT
(counterclockwise) and see if the engine sound better.


NEXT- if the above checks do not get you on the right track, the idle
circuits are sensitive to wet fuel setting in the float bowl.
For the idle condition, it all runs off the front Primary float bowl.
You need to have your wet fuel level at the right point so the vacuum
effect on your booster venturis suck a bit of fuel down into the intake
manifold.
Be sure that your gaskets on your booster venturis is intact, and that the
screw holding it into the carb body is snug.

You do have a Ford carb- not a Holley, right?
I'm assuming you have a 4 barrel, but the same principles apply to the
original 2 barrel Ford carburetor.

LAST for now; please check your accelerator circuit.
With the engine OFF, grab the carb throttle lever and twist it. You should
see fuel squirting through the accelerator pump jets into the carb
venturis. If not, you may hav ea defective accel pump diaphragm or perhaps
you misplaced the little check ball under the booster venturi assembly, or
the accel pump plumbing is clogged.
These last checks don't correlate well to the problem you reported, but it
is a good idea to check this anyway.

If you want to talk with me send me a note and give me your phone number.
Regards,

Don Antilla


On 6/16/13 2:43 PM, "jay.laifman@gmail.com" <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

>Vacuum choke. Good idea though. Thanks.
>Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
>Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 14:27:23
>To: Jay Laifman<jay.laifman@gmail.com>
>Reply-To: michael@michaelshortt.com
>Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Den<tigers@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking
>
>Is that an electric choke? Have you confirmed that power is going to it?
>
>Michael
>
>
>On Sun, Jun 16, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>> Got it all back together and went for a drive.
>>
>> Like I said, the good news is that it is not leaking gas anymore.
>>
>> The bad news is that it doesn't want to run below 2,000 rpm.  As it
>>warmed
>> up,
>> it seemed like the rpm range needed to be even higher.  I basically had
>>to
>> keep the rpm above 2,000 or 2,500 at all times or it stalled.
>>
>> Any thoughts on what I've done wrong?
>>
>> One thing I don't fully understand, and perhaps it is part of the
>>problem,
>> the
>> rectangular flap that is part of the choke, it seems to be open all the
>> time.
>> I would have thought that when the car was cold, it would be closer to
>> closed.
>> Maybe I flipped something when I put that back together.  But, even with
>> wide
>> open, once the engine was warm, I would have thought it would run fine.
>>
>> Over 2,500, it was nice, smooth and powerful.
>>
>> Thanks for any thoughts.
>>
>> And Happy Father's Day to all the fathers out there.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>-- 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Michael L. Shortt
>Savannah, Georgia
>www.michaelshortt.com
>michael@michaelshortt.com
>912-232-9390
>
>
>This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
>Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
>privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby
>notified
>that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
>communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
>have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________

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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, <michael@michaelshortt.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 15:07:36 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5qwWoA2FCn3VC6Rpq2tgLP95E2dQAAWwkg
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay
	My Holley Haynes Techbook does not list this problem.
Something in the idle circuit is not right.

Check to see if the secondary throttle plates are closed

Vacuum choke? - Are you sure its usually vacuum secondaries
Choke is normally electric or heat stove pipe style with bi-metal spring

check to make sure there are no vacuum leaks

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of jay.laifman@gmail.com
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 2:43 PM
To: michael@michaelshortt.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Den
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking


Vacuum choke. Good idea though. Thanks.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 14:27:23
To: Jay Laifman<jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net Den<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking

Is that an electric choke? Have you confirmed that power is going to it?

Michael


On Sun, Jun 16, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

> Got it all back together and went for a drive.
>
> Like I said, the good news is that it is not leaking gas anymore.
>
> The bad news is that it doesn't want to run below 2,000 rpm.  As it
> warmed up, it seemed like the rpm range needed to be even higher.  I
> basically had to keep the rpm above 2,000 or 2,500 at all times or it
> stalled.
>
> Any thoughts on what I've done wrong?
>
> One thing I don't fully understand, and perhaps it is part of the
> problem, the rectangular flap that is part of the choke, it seems to
> be open all the time.
> I would have thought that when the car was cold, it would be closer to
> closed.
> Maybe I flipped something when I put that back together.  But, even with
> wide
> open, once the engine was warm, I would have thought it would run fine.
>
> Over 2,500, it was nice, smooth and powerful.
>
> Thanks for any thoughts.
>
> And Happy Father's Day to all the fathers out there.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
>
>
>


--







Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael@michaelshortt.com
912-232-9390


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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 12:19:47 -0700
References: <2876558A65A8478C836B1793648CB234@ronpc1>
To: <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Here is a picture of the way it looks right now.  Shouldn't that throat plate
be in the closed position?  Or is it supposed to be open?  I wonder if I have
the choke attached incorrectly and it is keeping it open.

Jay

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpg which had a name of Holley Throat Plate.jpg]
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 13:45:44 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Jay Laifman'" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 15:43:05 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5qxnwxsXoMBl24SNmaosle5etg9AAAjPEg
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay
	The black cover is the automatic choke with a heat pipe - the
covered tube.

You should be able to feel some spring tension by pushing on the choke
plate.

It is possible the choke and the bi-metal spring inside that cover are not
engage properly.

There should also be a mark on the choke cover that usually lines up with
one of the casting marks.

Loosen the 3 screws on the choke cover to see and feel if the choke plate
will move with the cover as it turns.

Secondary throttle plate should be closed, primary throttle plate should be
very near closed - this is the idle set

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Laifman [mailto:jay.laifman@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 3:20 PM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: michael@michaelshortt.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking


Here is a picture of the way it looks right now.  Shouldn't that throat
plate be in the closed position?  Or is it supposed to be open?  I wonder if
I have the choke attached incorrectly and it is keeping it open.

Jay
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 15:40:34 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: deiland1@elp.rr.com, Jensen List <JENSEN-cars@british-steel.org>,
	Tiger List	 <tigers@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Happy Fathers Day
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

MANY Thanks Dan and the same back at you as well as to the entire list--Tiger and Alpine!!!!
Sent from Huawei Mobile

deiland1@elp.rr.com wrote:

>Just thought I would wish all those fathers who are on these lists, and share my passion for our cars, a Happy Fathers Day. 
>
>Dan Eiland
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 17:19:44 2013
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From: "Jeff Feit" <jeff@feitmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 19:18:20 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5q5qLtp0+Rexz7SoCrx+tRcl32mg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Well, the stop-leak project is coming along nicely, getting everything
cleaned up and ready to go back in.

 

Any idea how to get one of the Fairmont pulleys or Maverick fans? I'm
assuming that these aren't available new so it's junkyard stuff-but the
application information is a bit fuzzy to do a good search.

 

How about the grommet that goes on the firewall to cover the RHD steering
column hole?

 

I have the shifter taken apart and am cleaning up all the parts. Has anyone
ever had the parts plated (zinc, cad, etc.)? I could easily blast and paint
them, but there are a LOT of parts that have metal-to-metal sliding contact
(with grease) so I would have to mask off quite a bit to keep everything
working right.

 

FYI, got the engine mounts, made by Anchor through Summit. One box says Made
is USA, one says Made in India. They look good.

 

Also got the thermostat housing from Scott Drake. Comparing it to the one
that I broke many years ago due to a misaligned thermostat, it looks VERY
good.

 

Jeff Feit

B9471573
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 17:33:51 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <003101ce6ae7$cb3ac8a0$61b059e0$@feitmail.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 16:32:28 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
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Jeff,

  It took me about 10 years to find the Maverick fan in self serve wrecking 
yards..., and I go about once a month.  In self serve yards the cars start 
to show up about years 10-12 and are almost completely gone by years 20-25. 
The desired Maverick fan was from the early cars and is about 40 years old. 
Pretty much the same thing for the Volvo fan.  People have had success with 
the Derale fan.  If you are running the stock Tiger waterpump the center 
hole on the fan needs to be enlarged to 1". If you run a Volvo fan an 
approximate 1/8" bushing is needed for it's 1-1/8" hole.

Even the late 70's early 80's Fairmont's are getting very hard to find.  I 
recall a number of years ago Jere Teepen had a number of pulleys for sale. 
Maybe he will chime in or someone can put you in contact with him.
Tom 
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Jeff Feit'" <jeff@feitmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 19:33:12 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff

Fairmont pulley - junkyard or swap meet if you can find them there
There is a guy making them out of aluminum, $120 each - Bob Woolridge -
614-452-1191 - rwoolridge@insight.rr.com

Maverick fan - junkyard or swap meet maybe
Many are using a Derale fan

Grommet - Sunbeam Specialties or Classic Sunbeam

Shifter - I'm sure some have plated them - I painted mine, I was not worried
about masking off anything - I would guess the original parts were not
masked, just don't paint heavy in those areas, the parts will wear the paint
as needed.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jeff Feit
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 7:18 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...


Well, the stop-leak project is coming along nicely, getting everything
cleaned up and ready to go back in.



Any idea how to get one of the Fairmont pulleys or Maverick fans? I'm
assuming that these aren't available new so it's junkyard stuff-but the
application information is a bit fuzzy to do a good search.



How about the grommet that goes on the firewall to cover the RHD steering
column hole?



I have the shifter taken apart and am cleaning up all the parts. Has anyone
ever had the parts plated (zinc, cad, etc.)? I could easily blast and paint
them, but there are a LOT of parts that have metal-to-metal sliding contact
(with grease) so I would have to mask off quite a bit to keep everything
working right.



FYI, got the engine mounts, made by Anchor through Summit. One box says Made
is USA, one says Made in India. They look good.



Also got the thermostat housing from Scott Drake. Comparing it to the one
that I broke many years ago due to a misaligned thermostat, it looks VERY
good.



Jeff Feit

B9471573
_______________________________________________

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com




-----
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 17:41:50 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Thomas Witt'" <atwittsend@verizon.net>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 19:40:17 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom
	You have to be careful when you say enlarge the center hole on the
fan.  You can do this on most stock Ford fans but on many after market fans
the mount holes are slotted; you don't want to open the center hole into the
slotted holes.  You have to turn the fan hub around and possibly mill it to
get the correct distance and fan location.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Witt
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 7:32 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...


Jeff,

  It took me about 10 years to find the Maverick fan in self serve wrecking
yards..., and I go about once a month.  In self serve yards the cars start
to show up about years 10-12 and are almost completely gone by years 20-25.
The desired Maverick fan was from the early cars and is about 40 years old.
Pretty much the same thing for the Volvo fan.  People have had success with
the Derale fan.  If you are running the stock Tiger waterpump the center
hole on the fan needs to be enlarged to 1". If you run a Volvo fan an
approximate 1/8" bushing is needed for it's 1-1/8" hole.

Even the late 70's early 80's Fairmont's are getting very hard to find.  I
recall a number of years ago Jere Teepen had a number of pulleys for sale.
Maybe he will chime in or someone can put you in contact with him. Tom
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 18:59:19 2013
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 20:57:55 -0400 (EDT)
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, jeff@feitmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I found the pulley through a google search of "Used Ford  Parts".  Came 
from a scrap yard in Texas.  The owner told me they were  getting scarce 
because they were never considered  important and were being  junked over the 
years. 
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 6/16/2013 7:33:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rfraser@bluefrog.com writes:

Jeff

Fairmont pulley - junkyard or swap meet if you can find  them there
There is a guy making them out of aluminum, $120 each - Bob  Woolridge -
614-452-1191 - rwoolridge@insight.rr.com

Maverick fan -  junkyard or swap meet maybe
Many are using a Derale fan

Grommet -  Sunbeam Specialties or Classic Sunbeam

Shifter - I'm sure some have  plated them - I painted mine, I was not 
worried
about masking off anything  - I would guess the original parts were not
masked, just don't paint heavy  in those areas, the parts will wear the 
paint
as needed.

Ron  Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From:  tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On  Behalf Of Jeff Feit
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 7:18 PM
To:  tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Where to find parts,  shifter...


Well, the stop-leak project is coming along nicely,  getting everything
cleaned up and ready to go back in.



Any  idea how to get one of the Fairmont pulleys or Maverick fans? I'm
assuming  that these aren't available new so it's junkyard stuff-but the
application  information is a bit fuzzy to do a good search.



How about the  grommet that goes on the firewall to cover the RHD steering
column  hole?



I have the shifter taken apart and am cleaning up all the  parts. Has anyone
ever had the parts plated (zinc, cad, etc.)? I could  easily blast and paint
them, but there are a LOT of parts that have  metal-to-metal sliding contact
(with grease) so I would have to mask off  quite a bit to keep everything
working right.



FYI, got the  engine mounts, made by Anchor through Summit. One box says 
Made
is USA, one  says Made in India. They look good.



Also got the thermostat  housing from Scott Drake. Comparing it to the one
that I broke many years  ago due to a misaligned thermostat, it looks VERY
good.



Jeff  Feit

B9471573
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-----
No  virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version:  2013.0.3345 / Virus Database: 3199/6410 - Release Date:  06/14/13
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 19:21:07 2013
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 21:19:45 -0400
From: Chip Broadbooks <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I just dropped  a 14" Flex-A-Light off last week at a machine shop to get
the 1" pilot hole. They told me they would hone it out to 1". I,
personally, thought I could do it myself with a drill. I wasn't too far off
on my effort. About 1/8". I remember all of the forces of a rotating mass
from my engineering classes and tossed that fan, bought another, and am
paying the money. All I need is to destroy the bearings in the water pump
and potentially crack my timing cover. I know the mass wasn't that great,
but I am not taking the chance.

I ordered the fan from Amazon. It was much cheaper than Summit. I will get
the fan back tomorrow from the machine shop.

I bought a pulley from Bob Woolridge. Everything is on my car except the
fan. Still running the stock one until the other one is ready.

She still seems to be a not so cool Cat. I have no idea where my kid put my
infrared thermometer. I know the gauge is off by 10 to 20 degrees. It stays
reading at 200 while cruising. Kinda scared to let her idle for too long.
She might cough up a hairball on the garage floor.

Chip
Tom
        You have to be careful when you say enlarge the center hole on the
fan.  You can do this on most stock Ford fans but on many after market fans
the mount holes are slotted; you don't want to open the center hole into the
slotted holes.  You have to turn the fan hub around and possibly mill it to
get the correct distance and fan location.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Witt
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 7:32 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...


Jeff,

  It took me about 10 years to find the Maverick fan in self serve wrecking
yards..., and I go about once a month.  In self serve yards the cars start
to show up about years 10-12 and are almost completely gone by years 20-25.
The desired Maverick fan was from the early cars and is about 40 years old.
Pretty much the same thing for the Volvo fan.  People have had success with
the Derale fan.  If you are running the stock Tiger waterpump the center
hole on the fan needs to be enlarged to 1". If you run a Volvo fan an
approximate 1/8" bushing is needed for it's 1-1/8" hole.

Even the late 70's early 80's Fairmont's are getting very hard to find.  I
recall a number of years ago Jere Teepen had a number of pulleys for sale.
Maybe he will chime in or someone can put you in contact with him. Tom
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 22:05:23 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Chip Broadbooks'" <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>,
	<"undisclosed-recipients:>"@NONE.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 00:03:33 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5q+Mpf98qGSmxGQ3Gz3UNF+iCxvQAFe0QA
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Chip
	Never believe the temp gage until you check it with your infrared
thermometer or by other means.  My temp gage reads a little low and I know
others that read a bit high.  Once you know what the temp is you can have
some peace of mind.  You either live with the gage or you look at
calibrating the temp gage.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chip Broadbooks
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 9:20 PM
To: undisclosed-recipients:
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...


I just dropped  a 14" Flex-A-Light off last week at a machine shop to get
the 1" pilot hole. They told me they would hone it out to 1". I, personally,
thought I could do it myself with a drill. I wasn't too far off on my
effort. About 1/8". I remember all of the forces of a rotating mass from my
engineering classes and tossed that fan, bought another, and am paying the
money. All I need is to destroy the bearings in the water pump and
potentially crack my timing cover. I know the mass wasn't that great, but I
am not taking the chance.

I ordered the fan from Amazon. It was much cheaper than Summit. I will get
the fan back tomorrow from the machine shop.

I bought a pulley from Bob Woolridge. Everything is on my car except the
fan. Still running the stock one until the other one is ready.

She still seems to be a not so cool Cat. I have no idea where my kid put my
infrared thermometer. I know the gauge is off by 10 to 20 degrees. It stays
reading at 200 while cruising. Kinda scared to let her idle for too long.
She might cough up a hairball on the garage floor.

Chip
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 07:53:00 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 13:51:33 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay,
The choke is only used when the motor is cold.  Once the motor is warm, the
choke
plate SHOULD be open all the way.  In California, you don't even need the
choke,
I haven't had my choke plates closed in 40 years!
To find your problem, I would set it fully open.  I would guess that a small
bit of that
old gasket has plugged a passage somewhere (air or fuel passage).
Look to see that the secondary throttle plates are closed, then just work on
the front
section, that is where the problem is.
Gary

    ----- Original Message -----  From: Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com>  To:
'Jay Laifman' <jay.laifman@gmail.com>  Cc: tigers@autox.team.net  Sent: Sun,
16 Jun 2013 19:43:05 -0000 (UTC)  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at
least it's not leaking    Jay      The black cover is the automatic choke with
a heat pipe - the  covered tube.    You should be able to feel some spring
tension by pushing on the choke  plate.    It is possible the choke and the
bi-metal spring inside that cover are not  engage properly.    There should
also be a mark on the choke cover that usually lines up with  one of the
casting marks.    Loosen the 3 screws on the choke cover to see and feel if
the choke plate  will move with the cover as it turns.    Secondary throttle
plate should be closed, primary throttle plate should be  very near closed -
this is the idle set    Ron    -----Original Message-----  From: Jay Laifman
[mailto:jay.laifman@gmail.com]  Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 3:20 PM  To:
rfraser@bluefrog.com  Cc: michael@michaelshortt.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carb install - at least it's not leaking      Here is a
picture of the way it looks right now.  Shouldn't that throat  plate be in the
closed position?  Or is it supposed to be open?  I wonder if  I have the choke
attached incorrectly and it is keeping it open.    Jay
_______________________________________________    tigers@autox.team.net
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
Thread-Index: Ac5q5qLtp0+Rexz7SoCrx+tRcl32mgAAymFMAAq924AAA3lNgAARTeqg
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 14:46:09 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Chip and all,
The bigger hazard with modifying fan hubs is that a blade will come off and
depart radially. It will go through the hood and/or anything else in the
vicinity that is in the plane of rotation of the fan. As a safety precaution,
NEVER put your body across the plane of the fan when you're doing work under
the hood with the engine running, even if your rotating assembly is dead
stock... if something gets into the fan blades, they'll fling pieces out at
you.

For what it's worth, it's not very difficult to press a stock hub a little
further onto the pump shaft so that you can use the stock 5/8" hole to locate
your fan using an unmodified center hole and an unmodified (Fairmont) pulley.
I recall that when I last replaced the water pump I had to dress the pump ribs
slightly to provide clearance for the Fairmont pulley ID. Even if you have an
OEM Tiger pulley that's designed to locate on the 1" cast step of the
waterpump pulley flange, it might be better to make up a 5/8" to 1" spacer for
the pulley and then use a 5/8" bore fan over top of it... nobody can tell
under there.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chip Broadbooks
> Sent: June 16, 2013 7:20 PM
> Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
>
> I just dropped  a 14" Flex-A-Light off last week at a machine shop to
> get the 1" pilot hole. They told me they would hone it out to 1". I,
> personally, thought I could do it myself with a drill. I wasn't too far
> off on my effort. About 1/8". I remember all of the forces of a
> rotating mass from my engineering classes and tossed that fan, bought
> another, and am paying the money. All I need is to destroy the bearings
> in the water pump and potentially crack my timing cover. I know the
> mass wasn't that great, but I am not taking the chance.
>


________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 10:27:47 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 09:26:20 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Theo, I agree with what you have said.  Other than to keep a Tiger perfectly 
original I never understood why people continued to use the 1" hub.  It 
seems like Rootes/Ford just reversed the hub as a quick way of moving the 
fan and pulley away from the radiator.  But given the large desire to 
migrate to alternative fans (with 5/8" holes) the 1" hub is no longer a 
solution, but a hindrance.    As you have stated there are other, easily 
accomplished alternatives to do that.  My Tiger has a 5 bolt 289 with a" who 
knows what front cover" and I very much suspect a "generic, one size fits 
all" 5/8" water pump. While probably not optimal I do have clearance using 
the stock radiator and the yellow Volvo fan. Perhaps with thicker radiators 
it is less of an option.

Also, the other day I mentioned the need for the 1" hole if using the stock 
Tiger hub.  As Ron pointed out not every fan is a candidate for that 
modification.  Foremost in my mind at the time was the posts, and I believe 
article on Tigers United, that Steve Laifman did. He retained the stock 1" 
hub and modified the Ford Maverick fan to fit.

Tom 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 06:24:02 2013
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	<0D02D25185304333AF7B0DBAE18857DA@optiplex3301>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 08:22:11 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net>
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The water pump Rick sells for the 289 engines is listed as a "cast iron
type" because it's aluminum. It came with a spacer ring to accommodate the
oversize pulley hole. You all might want to check with Rick and see if the
260 pump also comes with a spacer ring.

 I used Summit's 14" flex fan, thanks to some guidance from Paul Sheahan
and the guys at the January T.A.C. event in Florida. I had to replace the
upper radiator hose because I had cut the old one too close to accommodate
the fan blades. Haven't tested it in traffic yet, but with the high
efficiency radiator core and the horn hole fix I have high hopes.

Tom
'67 Mark 2


On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net>wrote:

> Theo, I agree with what you have said.  Other than to keep a Tiger
> perfectly original I never understood why people continued to use the 1"
> hub.  It seems like Rootes/Ford just reversed the hub as a quick way of
> moving the fan and pulley away from the radiator.  But given the large
> desire to migrate to alternative fans (with 5/8" holes) the 1" hub is no
> longer a solution, but a hindrance.    As you have stated there are other,
> easily accomplished alternatives to do that.  My Tiger has a 5 bolt 289
> with a" who knows what front cover" and I very much suspect a "generic, one
> size fits all" 5/8" water pump. While probably not optimal I do have
> clearance using the stock radiator and the yellow Volvo fan. Perhaps with
> thicker radiators it is less of an option.
>
> Also, the other day I mentioned the need for the 1" hole if using the
> stock Tiger hub.  As Ron pointed out not every fan is a candidate for that
> modification.  Foremost in my mind at the time was the posts, and I believe
> article on Tigers United, that Steve Laifman did. He retained the stock 1"
> hub and modified the Ford Maverick fan to fit.
>
> Tom ______________________________**_________________
>
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/tigers/tkparker1941@*
> *gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com>
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 08:40:14 -0400
From: Chip Broadbooks <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
To: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I got a bit of guidance from Eric Gibeaut. He was correct as I witnessed it.

My bottom radiator hose was collapsing when my thermostat opened up. There
isn't a spring in it like there used to be to keep it from collapsing. I
went to O'Reilly and found one with a spring. I cannibalized the spring
from the hose and cut the extra length off, and installed it into my lower
hose. Took care of that issue.

Haven't blocked my horn holes yet.

Haven't gotten the flex fan installed yet. In Atlanta this week....
On Jun 18, 2013 8:22 AM, "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941@gmail.com> wrote:

> The water pump Rick sells for the 289 engines is listed as a "cast iron
> type" because it's aluminum. It came with a spacer ring to accommodate the
> oversize pulley hole. You all might want to check with Rick and see if the
> 260 pump also comes with a spacer ring.
>
>  I used Summit's 14" flex fan, thanks to some guidance from Paul Sheahan
> and the guys at the January T.A.C. event in Florida. I had to replace the
> upper radiator hose because I had cut the old one too close to accommodate
> the fan blades. Haven't tested it in traffic yet, but with the high
> efficiency radiator core and the horn hole fix I have high hopes.
>
> Tom
> '67 Mark 2
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net
> >wrote:
>
> > Theo, I agree with what you have said.  Other than to keep a Tiger
> > perfectly original I never understood why people continued to use the 1"
> > hub.  It seems like Rootes/Ford just reversed the hub as a quick way of
> > moving the fan and pulley away from the radiator.  But given the large
> > desire to migrate to alternative fans (with 5/8" holes) the 1" hub is no
> > longer a solution, but a hindrance.    As you have stated there are
> other,
> > easily accomplished alternatives to do that.  My Tiger has a 5 bolt 289
> > with a" who knows what front cover" and I very much suspect a "generic,
> one
> > size fits all" 5/8" water pump. While probably not optimal I do have
> > clearance using the stock radiator and the yellow Volvo fan. Perhaps with
> > thicker radiators it is less of an option.
> >
> > Also, the other day I mentioned the need for the 1" hole if using the
> > stock Tiger hub.  As Ron pointed out not every fan is a candidate for
> that
> > modification.  Foremost in my mind at the time was the posts, and I
> believe
> > article on Tigers United, that Steve Laifman did. He retained the stock
> 1"
> > hub and modified the Ford Maverick fan to fit.
> >
> > Tom ______________________________**_________________
> >
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<
> http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/tigers/tkparker1941@*
> > *gmail.com<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/chip.broadbooks@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 13:26:11 2013
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	Tue, 18 Jun 2013 13:23:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <9FF91BF723C94995A88AB30203F891F5@optiplex3301>
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 11:23:43 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Where to find parts, shifter...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I would caution that using an insert spring, while a good (even necessary)
idea, can potentially cause a problem.  Years ago I had a friend who used such
on his 289 Pinto conversion. Somehow the spring worked its way up the water
pump inlet.  The hose started collapsing and his water pump was damaged when
the spring wound around the impeller.  Bending the spring end is such a way
that it abuts the thickness of the inlet (perhaps small triangles???) would be
good preventative measure.
   There isn't a spring in it like there used to be to keep it from
collapsing. I went to O'Reilly and found one with a spring. I cannibalized the
spring from the hose and cut the extra length off, and installed it into my
lower hose. Took care of that issue.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 09:33:34 -0500
From: Joe Brown <jbbrown1980@gmail.com>
To: Tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] England Trip
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

In a couple of weeks I will be in England for a weekend and I am planning
on going to Conventry to the Transport Museum.  Are there any other
Rootes/Sunbeam/Tiger related attractions in that area that I should check
out?

Thanks,
Joe Brown
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 12:45:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

&gt; I am having issues with my rebuilt
&gt; Autolite 4100 4 barrel on the 1965 Ford 289 HiPo engine with
&gt; about 271 HP and 5/16&quot; fuel line.  The
&gt; passenger side secondary is filling up with gas at idle and
&gt; then leaking out the side.  I have checked float level,
&gt; same as primary.  No dirt etc in needle and seat. 
&gt; I am  thinking I have too much fuel pressure and fuel
&gt; is pushing past the needle and seat.
&gt;
&gt; I have disconnected the fuel line from carb and with
&gt; pressure guage on line, I have 5.52 lbs of pressure. 
&gt; My understanding was that the 4100 needles were good to 8
&gt; lbs before fuel would push past needle and seats.  When
&gt; the pump gets to 5.52 lbs with only the pressure guage
&gt; connected the pump stops ticking, when connected to the carb
&gt; it never stops ticking&#92;pumping
&gt;
&gt; I purchase the Facet fuel pump Part Number: BK 6101074
&gt; Product Line: Balkamp
&gt; Attributes:
&gt; Fuel Pump Fitting Type[s] : 5/16&quot; Barb Elbow
&gt; Fuel Pump Gallons Per Hour : 36 gph
&gt; Fuel Pump Line Size : 5/16&quot;
&gt; Fuel Pump Pressure Rating : 4 - 5.5 psi
&gt;
&gt; My understanding was that the 4100 needles were good to 8
&gt; lbs before fuel would push past needle and seats.  The
&gt; stock SU pumped 15 GPH and would support 200 HP, at least to
&gt; my understanding - no idea of the PSI?  What
&gt; PSI&#92;GPH is needed to support the 271 HP engine?
&gt;
&gt; The only thing I can think to do is purchase a fuel
&gt; regulator and choke down the PSI until secondary stops
&gt; pushing gas past the needle and seat.
&gt;
&gt; Any ideas would be appreciated.
&gt;
&gt; Joel Martin
&gt;
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 13:02:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers]  Carb install - at least it&#39;s not leaking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

You might want to check the idle screws themselves - mine had a &#39;burr&#39; on the screw and would not allow it to idle - just had to keep reving slightly to keep it lit.

A little polishing to remove the burr and idles nice now, at least on the 2nd and third start up.

Joel Martin
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 16:06:13 -0400
From: Don Antilla <fast427@sbcglobal.net>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Fuel Pressure
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel Pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

* Joel: I own a Series 200 Griffith with a stroked 289  so it is now 347
inches.
I use a Holley Red electric pump which produces 7 PSI
I have a slightly tuned up HiPo 289 Autolite carb and I do not have any
flooding problem.

I took a lot of care to assure my float level was per the book.
My process was:
* Remove the top from the carb
* Note the fuel level and measure the distance from the top surface of the
carb to the wet fuel in the bowl. I forgot the value, but it is found easily
in the Ford publications. If you can't find the value please let me know.
You MUST be certain to not have a wet fuel level higher than specified
because the booster venturis will then be sucked into the two secondary
venturis.
Next:
* Turn your electric fuel pump ON and observe if the level of the fuel
rises. It shouldn't take too long for the level to stabilize.
* When the pump is running, use a flashlght (LED type preferred. NEVER bring
an incandescent bulb anywhere near fuel since a drop on the globe can result
in a fire/explosion) to look into the secondaries and see if any fuel is
seeping past the booster rings ('venturis). Also look to see if any fuel is
seeping past the booster venturi assembly where it is screwed to the carb
body.(Be sure you have a gasket under your booster venturi assembly)
* When the fuel pump changes tone, or when the level stabilizes, measure the
wet fuel level with respect to the top of the carb body. It needs to be
precisely on the money for the carb to run right.
* Remember to be sure that you have the little spring retainer piece on the
float pivot/ needle & seat brass piece. If the little retention spring is
missing, it well could cause the needle to rise and excess fuel to leak in
substantially. Be sure the lock spring is engaged onto the brass recess.
Hope this helps.

Don A



On 6/18/13 3:45 PM, "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> wrote:

> &gt; I am having issues with my rebuilt
> &gt; Autolite 4100 4 barrel on the 1965 Ford 289 HiPo engine with
> &gt; about 271 HP and 5/16&quot; fuel line.  The
> &gt; passenger side secondary is filling up with gas at idle and
> &gt; then leaking out the side.  I have checked float level,
> &gt; same as primary.  No dirt etc in needle and seat.
> &gt; I am  thinking I have too much fuel pressure and fuel
> &gt; is pushing past the needle and seat.
> &gt;
> &gt; I have disconnected the fuel line from carb and with
> &gt; pressure guage on line, I have 5.52 lbs of pressure.
> &gt; My understanding was that the 4100 needles were good to 8
> &gt; lbs before fuel would push past needle and seats.  When
> &gt; the pump gets to 5.52 lbs with only the pressure guage
> &gt; connected the pump stops ticking, when connected to the carb
> &gt; it never stops ticking&#92;pumping
> &gt;
> &gt; I purchase the Facet fuel pump Part Number: BK 6101074
> &gt; Product Line: Balkamp
> &gt; Attributes:
> &gt; Fuel Pump Fitting Type[s] : 5/16&quot; Barb Elbow
> &gt; Fuel Pump Gallons Per Hour : 36 gph
> &gt; Fuel Pump Line Size : 5/16&quot;
> &gt; Fuel Pump Pressure Rating : 4 - 5.5 psi
> &gt;
> &gt; My understanding was that the 4100 needles were good to 8
> &gt; lbs before fuel would push past needle and seats.  The
> &gt; stock SU pumped 15 GPH and would support 200 HP, at least to
> &gt; my understanding - no idea of the PSI?  What
> &gt; PSI&#92;GPH is needed to support the 271 HP engine?
> &gt;
> &gt; The only thing I can think to do is purchase a fuel
> &gt; regulator and choke down the PSI until secondary stops
> &gt; pushing gas past the needle and seat.
> &gt;
> &gt; Any ideas would be appreciated.
> &gt;
> &gt; Joel Martin
> &gt;
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers@autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 20:06:50 +0000 (UTC)
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To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel Pressure
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I'm using a Facet with about the same max pressure on my stock 2 barrel with no problems.  Did you check the float height again?  I had something like this happen (not on the Tiger) when the float didn't.  It had a slow leak and eventually sank.  

And you said only one bowl overflows.  The other side is always OK with the same pressure?

Stu
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Fuel Pressure
Thread-Index: AQHObF1ETm2DrB5KBkmykG8fwDRyj5k74hfg
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 20:07:37 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel Pressure
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It might be that the secondary needle and seat assembly is damaged or
misaligned and that prevents it from shutting off completely. Is the float
hanger free of friction?
One other thing that can happen to carbs with brass floats (I don't recall if
the 4100 is in that category, but it's happened to me with Webers) is that the
float develops a leak and then fills with fuel so it can't operate the shutoff
needle.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin
> Sent: June 18, 2013 1:46 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pressure
>
> &gt; I am having issues with my rebuilt
> &gt; Autolite 4100 4 barrel on the 1965 Ford 289 HiPo engine with &gt;
> about 271 HP and 5/16&quot; fuel line.


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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 16:37:31 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5sXULf+JwIbL4SQX2zIglIIP3n7AAAw9Bg
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel Pressure
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel
	You could drop the float level a little to see if it helps.  Make
sure the float does float and not sink.
Float level is away check wet.

Ford carburetors operate around 5 psi and I believe up to around 8 psi

Leaks are always a pain but you need to find where and why it is leaking -
is the gasket leaking, is the float level too high, is the needle and seat
OK, is it the casting?

At WOT you need about 1/2 lb fuel per HP - 15 gph will support around 200
HP; 36 gph should support around 480 HP

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2013 3:46 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel Pressure


&gt; I am having issues with my rebuilt
&gt; Autolite 4100 4 barrel on the 1965 Ford 289 HiPo engine with &gt; about
271 HP and 5/16&quot; fuel line.  The &gt; passenger side secondary is
filling up with gas at idle and &gt; then leaking out the side.  I have
checked float level, &gt; same as primary.  No dirt etc in needle and seat.
&gt; I am  thinking I have too much fuel pressure and fuel
&gt; is pushing past the needle and seat.
&gt;
&gt; I have disconnected the fuel line from carb and with
&gt; pressure guage on line, I have 5.52 lbs of pressure.
&gt; My understanding was that the 4100 needles were good to 8 &gt; lbs
before fuel would push past needle and seats.  When &gt; the pump gets to
5.52 lbs with only the pressure guage &gt; connected the pump stops ticking,
when connected to the carb &gt; it never stops ticking&#92;pumping &gt; &gt;
I purchase the Facet fuel pump Part Number: BK 6101074 &gt; Product Line:
Balkamp &gt; Attributes: &gt; Fuel Pump Fitting Type[s] : 5/16&quot; Barb
Elbow &gt; Fuel Pump Gallons Per Hour : 36 gph &gt; Fuel Pump Line Size :
5/16&quot; &gt; Fuel Pump Pressure Rating : 4 - 5.5 psi &gt; &gt; My
understanding was that the 4100 needles were good to 8 &gt; lbs before fuel
would push past needle and seats.  The &gt; stock SU pumped 15 GPH and would
support 200 HP, at least to &gt; my understanding - no idea of the PSI?
What &gt; PSI&#92;GPH is needed to support the 271 HP engine? &gt; &gt; The
only thing I can think to do is purchase a fuel &gt; regulator and choke
down the PSI until secondary stops &gt; pushing gas past the needle and
seat. &gt; &gt; Any ideas would be appreciated. &gt; &gt; Joel Martin &gt;
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 16:37:50 -0400
From: Don Antilla <fast427@sbcglobal.net>
To: Don Antilla <fast427@sbcglobal.net>, Joel Martin
	<jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Updated/ correctionFuel Pressure
Subject: [Tigers] Updated/ correctionFuel Pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Friends: I had to correct a mistyping. ("
because the FUEL will be
sucked
")
Please see this updated text.
Don

On 6/18/13 4:06 PM, "Don Antilla" wrote:

>* Joel: I own a Series 200 Griffith with a stroked 289  so it is now 347
>inches.
>I use a Holley Red electric pump which produces 7 PSI
>I have a slightly tuned up HiPo 289 Autolite carb and I do not have any
>flooding problem.
>
>I took a lot of care to assure my float level was per the book.
>My process was:
>* Remove the top from the carb
>* Note the fuel level and measure the distance from the top surface of the
>carb to the wet fuel in the bowl. I forgot the value, but it is found
>easily
>in the Ford publications. If you can't find the value please let me know.
>You MUST be certain to not have a wet fuel level higher than specified
>because the FUEL will then be sucked into the two secondary
>venturis.
>Next:
>* Turn your electric fuel pump ON and observe if the level of the fuel
>rises. It shouldn't take too long for the level to stabilize.
>* When the pump is running, use a flashlght (LED type preferred. NEVER
>bring
>an incandescent bulb anywhere near fuel since a drop on the globe can
>result
>in a fire/explosion) to look into the secondaries and see if any fuel is
>seeping past the booster rings ('venturis). Also look to see if any fuel
>is
>seeping past the booster venturi assembly where it is screwed to the carb
>body.(Be sure you have a gasket under your booster venturi assembly)
>* When the fuel pump changes tone, or when the level stabilizes, measure
>the
>wet fuel level with respect to the top of the carb body. It needs to be
>precisely on the money for the carb to run right.
>* Remember to be sure that you have the little spring retainer piece on
>the
>float pivot/ needle & seat brass piece. If the little retention spring is
>missing, it well could cause the needle to rise and excess fuel to leak in
>substantially. Be sure the lock spring is engaged onto the brass recess.
>Hope this helps.
>
>Don A
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 15:06:00 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel Pressure
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Leaky brass floats aren't the only ones that can cause problems.  Composite 
floats can too.  I once had a Dodge equipped with a Holley with a side 
mounted float.  After several years it started having a problem with 
stalling while turning, but only in one direction.  After asking around, I 
found out that this was a common problem with this carb.  It turns out that 
composite floats tend to lose their bouncy with age.  Since the float was 
side mounted, there was a stronger centrifugal effect on it in one direction 
than the other, resulted in fuel starvation.  With cross mounted floats, 
this can cause stalling during hard braking.

Whenever I do a carb rebuild, I also replace the float(s).  I suppose you 
could have brass floats checked for leakage, but I've never bothered.  With 
composite floats, replacement is just a given as far as I'm concerned.

Roland

> From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
>
> It might be that the secondary needle and seat assembly is damaged or
> misaligned and that prevents it from shutting off completely. Is the float
> hanger free of friction?
> One other thing that can happen to carbs with brass floats (I don't recall 
> if
> the 4100 is in that category, but it's happened to me with Webers) is that 
> the
> float develops a leak and then fills with fuel so it can't operate the 
> shutoff
> needle.
>
> Theo
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Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 12:36:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

All,
I am finally attempting to get my Tiger back on the road after 35 years
in the garage.
I have removed the radiator. (I think it leaks.)
I have removed
the water pump - completely frozen up!
The transmission is in neutral.
The
dipstick shows the oil looks good, no sigh of water.
I have removed the spark
plugs. 
I tried to rotate the engine, but it is frozen and will not turn.
(Tried to turn it using a long breaker bar.)
I am assuming the old gasoline
has varnished and frozen the engine.
Is there a way to free up the pistons?
What other steps can I take to free it up? Since the engine is original, I
would prefer to keep it, rather than get a new short block.

Any advice would
be greatly appreciated.
Carl Halgren
CGHalgren@yahoo.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 13:48:30 2013
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Thread-Index: AQHObSUH4ls2x1T+zEC02TQTN5X4XZk9b+bA
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 19:46:39 +0000
References: <1371670587.56804.YahooMailNeo@web142603.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

HI Carl,
If it won't rotate with a breaker bar, it's not going to do you much good to
try to just free up the pistons and then run it like that. Most likely you're
going to have cracked valve stem seals, stuck lifters, and a bunch of other
teething problems that will keep you from enjoying the car.

Pull the engine, take it apart, and recondition everything. That way you'll
find out what it is that's really keeping it from turning over as well as
putting new seals and gaskets in so it doesn't spray crap everywhere. You
should be able to keep the original block - at worst you'd have to bore it
.030 over and put in new pistons. You might be able to get away with just
honing the cylinders and cleaning the varnish off everything.

Good luck,
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl Halgren
> Sent: June 19, 2013 1:36 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
>
> All,
> I am finally attempting to get my Tiger back on the road after 35 years
> in the garage.
> I have removed the radiator. (I think it leaks.) I have removed the
> water pump - completely frozen up!
> The transmission is in neutral.
> The
> dipstick shows the oil looks good, no sigh of water.
> I have removed the spark
> plugs.
> I tried to rotate the engine, but it is frozen and will not turn.
> (Tried to turn it using a long breaker bar.) I am assuming the old
> gasoline has varnished and frozen the engine.
> Is there a way to free up the pistons?
> What other steps can I take to free it up? Since the engine is
> original, I would prefer to keep it, rather than get a new short block.
>
> Any advice would
> be greatly appreciated.
> Carl Halgren
> CGHalgren@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 13:58:31 2013
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Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 19:54:24 +0000 (UTC)
From: genepadgett@comcast.net
To: Theo Smit <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
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Cc: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Even when you get the motor apart, you might have trouble getting the pistons out of the bores. At tip I have heard about is to fill each cylinder with a 50/50 mixture of atf and acetone, to a depth of about 1/2 inch or so if possible. Let it soak for several days. 


I emphasize I have never done this myself, but hopefully this early heads up will inspire others with direct experience to confirm or correct. 


Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Theo Smit" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com> 
To: "Carl Halgren" <cghalgren@yahoo.com>, tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 2:46:39 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage 

HI Carl, 
If it won't rotate with a breaker bar, it's not going to do you much good to 
try to just free up the pistons and then run it like that. Most likely you're 
going to have cracked valve stem seals, stuck lifters, and a bunch of other 
teething problems that will keep you from enjoying the car. 

Pull the engine, take it apart, and recondition everything. That way you'll 
find out what it is that's really keeping it from turning over as well as 
putting new seals and gaskets in so it doesn't spray crap everywhere. You 
should be able to keep the original block - at worst you'd have to bore it 
.030 over and put in new pistons. You might be able to get away with just 
honing the cylinders and cleaning the varnish off everything. 

Good luck, 
Theo 

> -----Original Message----- 
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- 
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl Halgren 
> Sent: June 19, 2013 1:36 PM 
> To: tigers@autox.team.net 
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage 
> 
> All, 
> I am finally attempting to get my Tiger back on the road after 35 years 
> in the garage. 
> I have removed the radiator. (I think it leaks.) I have removed the 
> water pump - completely frozen up! 
> The transmission is in neutral. 
> The 
> dipstick shows the oil looks good, no sigh of water. 
> I have removed the spark 
> plugs. 
> I tried to rotate the engine, but it is frozen and will not turn. 
> (Tried to turn it using a long breaker bar.) I am assuming the old 
> gasoline has varnished and frozen the engine. 
> Is there a way to free up the pistons? 
> What other steps can I take to free it up? Since the engine is 
> original, I would prefer to keep it, rather than get a new short block. 
> 
> Any advice would 
> be greatly appreciated. 
> Carl Halgren 
> CGHalgren@yahoo.com 
> _______________________________________________ 
> 
> tigers@autox.team.net 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com 
> 
> 


________________________________ 

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notify the sender by reply email and delete the message. Any disclosure, 
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someone other than the intended recipient is prohibited. Thank you. 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 14:13:57 2013
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Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 16:07:57 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl, I'm sure you'll get lots of advice from the group; they're well
versed in all things Tiger.

If it was me I'd change the oil and filter, pull the distributor and try to
spin up the oil pump to get oil to the bearings. Rotation, if memory
serves, is counter-clockwise. You can oil the cylinders (more or less) with
a good penetrating oil like maybe Marvel Mystery oil or type A transmission
fluid - keeping in mind you really don't want to run the engine without
another oil change once it is freed up... And, assuming the pump will spin
and oil the bearings, try again to break the engine loose. If that doesn't
work a rebuild is in order. 289 cranks are available if needed, but may be
hard to find. Pistons, bearings, etc. are readily available. If you do have
to tear it down, have the innards balanced, and remember to work clean.

Just because the transmission is in neutral doesn't mean is isn't frozen.
Pull the drive shaft the try to spin it from the rear. That eliminates
everything except the front shaft / bearing as a potential bind. I'm sure
you'll hear from guys who'll say you can pull the transmission without
moving the engine. I have a missing knuckle that says it's damn near
impossible to do. If you decide to try, put the car on jack stands to the
frame (un-sprung) and use a transmission jack.

If you haven't already, get to know Rick McLeod at Sunbeam Specialties,
he's your new best friend. Lots of Tiger specific parts and a wealth of
knowledge. Also, if you haven't, consider joining C.A.T. (The California
Association Of Tiger Owners) and get to know Bill Graf, their parts guru.
Summit Racing and National Parts Depot (among others) are good places for
Ford engine parts.

And, if questions arise (they always arise), ask here. There's more
expertise on this site than almost anywhere.

Tom
'67 Mark 2


On Wed, Jun 19, 2013 at 3:36 PM, Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com> wrote:

> All,
> I am finally attempting to get my Tiger back on the road after 35 years
> in the garage.
> I have removed the radiator. (I think it leaks.)
> I have removed
> the water pump - completely frozen up!
> The transmission is in neutral.
> The
> dipstick shows the oil looks good, no sigh of water.
> I have removed the spark
> plugs.
> I tried to rotate the engine, but it is frozen and will not turn.
> (Tried to turn it using a long breaker bar.)
> I am assuming the old gasoline
> has varnished and frozen the engine.
> Is there a way to free up the pistons?
> What other steps can I take to free it up? Since the engine is original, I
> would prefer to keep it, rather than get a new short block.
>
> Any advice would
> be greatly appreciated.
> Carl Halgren
> CGHalgren@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 14:15:37 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Smit, Theo'" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>, "'Carl Halgren'"
	<cghalgren@yahoo.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 16:09:19 -0400
Thread-Index: AQHObSUH4ls2x1T+zEC02TQTN5X4XZk9b+bAgAAEniA=
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl
	Theo covered it.

You might want to jack the rear wheels up to make sure you actually do have
it in neutral, wheels should turn as long as the brakes are not frozen too;
watch the drive shaft.  You might need to turn just the drive shaft to make
sure the transmission is not in a gear.   Once in a great while my
transmission hangs up at the shifter and I have to force it to neutral.

You could put a few ounces of ATF or Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and
let it sit overnight or longer to see if it will free the pistons.

Most likely it will need a rebuild.

How many miles on this engine?

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Smit, Theo
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 3:47 PM
To: Carl Halgren; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage


HI Carl,
If it won't rotate with a breaker bar, it's not going to do you much good to
try to just free up the pistons and then run it like that. Most likely
you're going to have cracked valve stem seals, stuck lifters, and a bunch of
other teething problems that will keep you from enjoying the car.

Pull the engine, take it apart, and recondition everything. That way you'll
find out what it is that's really keeping it from turning over as well as
putting new seals and gaskets in so it doesn't spray crap everywhere. You
should be able to keep the original block - at worst you'd have to bore it
.030 over and put in new pistons. You might be able to get away with just
honing the cylinders and cleaning the varnish off everything.

Good luck,
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl Halgren
> Sent: June 19, 2013 1:36 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
>
> All,
> I am finally attempting to get my Tiger back on the road after 35
> years in the garage. I have removed the radiator. (I think it leaks.)
> I have removed the water pump - completely frozen up!
> The transmission is in neutral.
> The
> dipstick shows the oil looks good, no sigh of water.
> I have removed the spark
> plugs.
> I tried to rotate the engine, but it is frozen and will not turn.
> (Tried to turn it using a long breaker bar.) I am assuming the old
> gasoline has varnished and frozen the engine.
> Is there a way to free up the pistons?
> What other steps can I take to free it up? Since the engine is
> original, I would prefer to keep it, rather than get a new short block.
>
> Any advice would
> be greatly appreciated.
> Carl Halgren
> CGHalgren@yahoo.com _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>


________________________________

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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <1371670587.56804.YahooMailNeo@web142603.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 13:16:15 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The other option  is to try and free the engine.  I warn that there is the 
risk of breaking piston rings and/or the lands on the piston. Remember you 
have a rather rare 5 bolt block (I think).  There are many method that can 
be found on the internet. But typically something like "Marvel Mystery Oil" 
is put in the cylinder. I would recommend about a cap full or two.  Then 
with an air hose in the spark plug hole (and a rag to prevent platter) give 
it a blast to spread it around the cylinder walls.  This will help to ensure 
it works its way around the hole piston. The MMO is allowed to sit for a 
period of time - maybe 24 hours. Then try the rotation again.

If it gets you anywhere repeat the process until everything rotates 
decently. Once there is some movement I would alternate (back and forth) the 
direction of rotation to hopefully "pump" the MMO between the rings.  Having 
said all that, why was the car parked 35 years ago? If it had a spun bearing 
there is no advantage to attempting to free it up.

Tom 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 16:56:23 2013
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Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 17:54:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: bucktrippel@verizon.net
To: atwittsend@verizon.net, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have dealt with only one frozen Tiger engine. 

Dan Walters and I freed it by squirting Kroil in each cylinder and then working a breaker bar on the damper bolt back and forth. Eventually got it to turn and run. However one cylinder was low on conpression and I had to rebuild the block. 

In the end I guess it wasn't worth the effort to free it and run it before rebuilding. However you might be luckier than I was.

bt
ps leaving for TU in the AM. George Boskoff is riding up with me.
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Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 16:05:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for so much information. I am impressed with the
speed of these
responses.
B 
I have several suggestions on soaking the pistons b Marvel
Mystery oil, or atf, or a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone, or diesel fuel.
Decisions,
decisions. 
B 
This week I managed to free up the rusted right rear
brake.
I have ordered a pair of rear wheel cylinders from Classic Garage. I
know the
transmission is in neutral because the un-rusted wheel turns freely
(sorta). I
have 2 options b new brake shoes or have the old shoes relined.
The shoes have
lots of meat on them, but I think I would be safer with new
linings.
B 
The radiator has green residue along the lower portion
(copper
color), and the water level was empty except for a small amount of
green stuff
(antifreeze mostly, I guess).
B 
Since the old water pump will not turn, I
know I need a new
water pump b will the stock Ford pump fit?
B 
A little
background on my Tiger MKII.
I bought it new. I was in the Air Force in Omaha,
Nebraska,
and stopped in to price a station wagon while in Denver for a rifle
competition. No station wagon, but I ordered a 289 Tiger. Picked it up a month
later. It accompanied me to San Jose for IBM schooling for a couple of months,
then back to Omaha for a couple more years. After that, we went to NJ where it
lived (and died) for many years. I retired 8 years ago to a small town near
Topeka, KS and dragged it with me on a trailer. It has been garaged since
1977.
B 
Thanks,
Carl
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 17:24:34 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Carl Halgren'" <cghalgren@yahoo.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 19:22:29 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5tQXj1JaTqubTMSbydYgLLzuzhAQAAG0Dg
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-06-19_09:2013-06-19,2013-06-19,1970-01-01
	signatures=0
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	engine=7.0.1-1305240000 definitions=main-1306190240
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl
	This email based group can be very fast responding.  Someone is
usually online most of the time.

Sunbeam Rules of Engagement

1 - never, ever throw a part away or exchange a part from your Tiger - it is
your only clue to what the correct part should be or looks like

2 - when you are about to throw that part away or exchange it refer to Rule
1

The water pump is a stock Ford 289 cast iron water pump - the difference is
the position of the fan hub.
I would try to have the original water pump rebuilt but that is me.

Most engine parts are stock Ford parts but there are also many unique to
Tiger parts too - another reason to never throw parts away.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Carl Halgren
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 7:05 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage


Thanks for so much information. I am impressed with the
speed of these
responses.
B
I have several suggestions on soaking the pistons b Marvel Mystery oil, or
atf, or a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone, or diesel fuel. Decisions,
decisions.
B
This week I managed to free up the rusted right rear
brake.
I have ordered a pair of rear wheel cylinders from Classic Garage. I know
the transmission is in neutral because the un-rusted wheel turns freely
(sorta). I have 2 options b new brake shoes or have the old shoes relined.
The shoes have lots of meat on them, but I think I would be safer with new
linings. B
The radiator has green residue along the lower portion
(copper
color), and the water level was empty except for a small amount of green
stuff (antifreeze mostly, I guess). B
Since the old water pump will not turn, I
know I need a new
water pump b will the stock Ford pump fit?
B
A little
background on my Tiger MKII.
I bought it new. I was in the Air Force in Omaha,
Nebraska,
and stopped in to price a station wagon while in Denver for a rifle
competition. No station wagon, but I ordered a 289 Tiger. Picked it up a
month later. It accompanied me to San Jose for IBM schooling for a couple of
months, then back to Omaha for a couple more years. After that, we went to
NJ where it lived (and died) for many years. I retired 8 years ago to a
small town near Topeka, KS and dragged it with me on a trailer. It has been
garaged since 1977. B
Thanks,
Carl
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 17:37:49 2013
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References: <1371683105.97212.YahooMailNeo@web142601.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<019AF8B22FC64B4C91BD29BBDB4AACEF@ronpc1>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 19:35:40 -0400
From: Chip Broadbooks <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hmmmmm......
Reminds me of the Tiger rules I have with my 12 y/o son:

1. Never, ever, discuss, talk about, brag, etc, whatever happens with the
Kitty, in the Kitty, or around the Kitty.

2. Remember Rule #1.

He hasn't seen "Fight Club" yet.
On Jun 19, 2013 7:22 PM, "Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Carl
>         This email based group can be very fast responding.  Someone is
> usually online most of the time.
>
> Sunbeam Rules of Engagement
>
> 1 - never, ever throw a part away or exchange a part from your Tiger - it
> is
> your only clue to what the correct part should be or looks like
>
> 2 - when you are about to throw that part away or exchange it refer to Rule
> 1
>
> The water pump is a stock Ford 289 cast iron water pump - the difference is
> the position of the fan hub.
> I would try to have the original water pump rebuilt but that is me.
>
> Most engine parts are stock Ford parts but there are also many unique to
> Tiger parts too - another reason to never throw parts away.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Carl Halgren
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 7:05 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
>
>
> Thanks for so much information. I am impressed with the
> speed of these
> responses.
> B
> I have several suggestions on soaking the pistons b  Marvel Mystery oil, or
> atf, or a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone, or diesel fuel. Decisions,
> decisions.
> B
> This week I managed to free up the rusted right rear
> brake.
> I have ordered a pair of rear wheel cylinders from Classic Garage. I know
> the transmission is in neutral because the un-rusted wheel turns freely
> (sorta). I have 2 options b  new brake shoes or have the old shoes relined.
> The shoes have lots of meat on them, but I think I would be safer with new
> linings. B
> The radiator has green residue along the lower portion
> (copper
> color), and the water level was empty except for a small amount of green
> stuff (antifreeze mostly, I guess). B
> Since the old water pump will not turn, I
> know I need a new
> water pump b  will the stock Ford pump fit?
> B
> A little
> background on my Tiger MKII.
> I bought it new. I was in the Air Force in Omaha,
> Nebraska,
> and stopped in to price a station wagon while in Denver for a rifle
> competition. No station wagon, but I ordered a 289 Tiger. Picked it up a
> month later. It accompanied me to San Jose for IBM schooling for a couple
> of
> months, then back to Omaha for a couple more years. After that, we went to
> NJ where it lived (and died) for many years. I retired 8 years ago to a
> small town near Topeka, KS and dragged it with me on a trailer. It has been
> garaged since 1977. B
> Thanks,
> Carl
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/chip.broadbooks@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 17:41:19 2013
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Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 16:39:38 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know if this is a sacrilegious thing to suggest.  Given your
history with the car, and its condition, it may also depend on what you
want to do with it now.  Do you want to get back to driving it to reclaim
days gone by, or do you want to first enjoy the restoration process?  If it
is the former, perhaps consider buying a crate 289 and getting the
appropriate new transmission to go with (I don't know all the issues with
getting 6 bolt 289s and 6 bolt toploaders).  Then, save the original engine
and tranny for your kids to deal with should they want pure originality.

Just a thought.  I personally would probably not go that route.  But, I
enjoy working on these - to an extent.  I get VERY frustrated with parts
that won't come off without breaking a bolt, hard to find parts, and parts
that don't fit when they arrive. Some people love chasing down the "right"
part.  Yeah, that's not me.  Though I do love putting on the right part and
making this work.

So, I'm just making this suggestion because everyone is different.

Jay


On Wed, Jun 19, 2013 at 4:05 PM, Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Thanks for so much information. I am impressed with the
> speed of these
> responses.
> B
> I have several suggestions on soaking the pistons b  Marvel
> Mystery oil, or atf, or a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone, or diesel fuel.
> Decisions,
> decisions.
> B
> This week I managed to free up the rusted right rear
> brake.
> I have ordered a pair of rear wheel cylinders from Classic Garage. I
> know the
> transmission is in neutral because the un-rusted wheel turns freely
> (sorta). I
> have 2 options b  new brake shoes or have the old shoes relined.
> The shoes have
> lots of meat on them, but I think I would be safer with new
> linings.
> B
> The radiator has green residue along the lower portion
> (copper
> color), and the water level was empty except for a small amount of
> green stuff
> (antifreeze mostly, I guess).
> B
> Since the old water pump will not turn, I
> know I need a new
> water pump b  will the stock Ford pump fit?
> B
> A little
> background on my Tiger MKII.
> I bought it new. I was in the Air Force in Omaha,
> Nebraska,
> and stopped in to price a station wagon while in Denver for a rifle
> competition. No station wagon, but I ordered a 289 Tiger. Picked it up a
> month
> later. It accompanied me to San Jose for IBM schooling for a couple of
> months,
> then back to Omaha for a couple more years. After that, we went to NJ
> where it
> lived (and died) for many years. I retired 8 years ago to a small town near
> Topeka, KS and dragged it with me on a trailer. It has been garaged since
> 1977.
> B
> Thanks,
> Carl
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 17:48:49 2013
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 19:41:18 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1371685278;
	bh=MQHHy/c4rNQpMpOQynmZV8WzGpBaBnwSgMY6uR5ArUY=;
	h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type;
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d294c51c2419e6bd5
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Rule 3 Have a big fat wallet.
 
 
In a message dated 6/19/2013 4:36:11 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
chip.broadbooks@gmail.com writes:

Hmmmmm......
Reminds me of the Tiger rules I have with my 12 y/o  son:

1. Never, ever, discuss, talk about, brag, etc, whatever happens  with the
Kitty, in the Kitty, or around the Kitty.

2. Remember Rule  #1.

He hasn't seen "Fight Club" yet.
On Jun 19, 2013 7:22 PM, "Ron  Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Carl
>   This email based group can be very fast  responding.  Someone is
> usually online most of the  time.
>
> Sunbeam Rules of Engagement
>
> 1 - never,  ever throw a part away or exchange a part from your Tiger - it
>  is
> your only clue to what the correct part should be or looks  like
>
> 2 - when you are about to throw that part away or  exchange it refer to 
Rule
> 1
>
> The water pump is a stock  Ford 289 cast iron water pump - the difference 
is
> the position of the  fan hub.
> I would try to have the original water pump rebuilt but that  is me.
>
> Most engine parts are stock Ford parts but there are  also many unique to
> Tiger parts too - another reason to never throw  parts away.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
>
> -----Original  Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  
[mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Carl  Halgren
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 7:05 PM
> To:  tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of  Storage
>
>
> Thanks for so much information. I am impressed  with the
> speed of these
> responses.
> B
> I have  several suggestions on soaking the pistons b  Marvel Mystery oil, 
 or
> atf, or a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone, or diesel fuel.  Decisions,
> decisions.
> B
> This week I managed to free up  the rusted right rear
> brake.
> I have ordered a pair of rear  wheel cylinders from Classic Garage. I know
> the transmission is in  neutral because the un-rusted wheel turns freely
> (sorta). I have 2  options b  new brake shoes or have the old shoes 
relined.
> The  shoes have lots of meat on them, but I think I would be safer with 
new
>  linings. B
> The radiator has green residue along the lower  portion
> (copper
> color), and the water level was empty except  for a small amount of green
> stuff (antifreeze mostly, I guess).  B
> Since the old water pump will not turn, I
> know I need a  new
> water pump b  will the stock Ford pump fit?
> B
>  A little
> background on my Tiger MKII.
> I bought it new. I was  in the Air Force in Omaha,
> Nebraska,
> and stopped in to price a  station wagon while in Denver for a rifle
> competition. No station  wagon, but I ordered a 289 Tiger. Picked it up a
> month later. It  accompanied me to San Jose for IBM schooling for a couple
> of
>  months, then back to Omaha for a couple more years. After that, we went  
to
> NJ where it lived (and died) for many years. I retired 8 years ago  to a
> small town near Topeka, KS and dragged it with me on a trailer.  It has 
been
> garaged since 1977. B
> Thanks,
> Carl
>  _______________________________________________
>
>  tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe:
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
>  _______________________________________________
>
>  tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe:
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/chip.broadbooks@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 17:53:55 2013
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References: <e0a55.1743d6b0.3ef39b9e@aol.com>
From: Chip Broadbooks <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 19:52:12 -0400
To: "AAAGLASSS@aol.com" <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Bribery doesn't work with Cops or Kids.....
Kind of works with the Insurance companies. Just turns into extortion. Legally.

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 19, 2013, at 7:47 PM, "AAAGLASSS@aol.com" <AAAGLASSS@aol.com> wrote:

> Rule 3 Have a big fat wallet.
>
>
> In a message dated 6/19/2013 4:36:11 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> chip.broadbooks@gmail.com writes:
>
> Hmmmmm......
> Reminds me of the Tiger rules I have with my 12 y/o  son:
>
> 1. Never, ever, discuss, talk about, brag, etc, whatever happens  with the
> Kitty, in the Kitty, or around the Kitty.
>
> 2. Remember Rule  #1.
>
> He hasn't seen "Fight Club" yet.
> On Jun 19, 2013 7:22 PM, "Ron  Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:
>
>> Carl
>>  This email based group can be very fast  responding.  Someone is
>> usually online most of the  time.
>>
>> Sunbeam Rules of Engagement
>>
>> 1 - never,  ever throw a part away or exchange a part from your Tiger - it
>> is
>> your only clue to what the correct part should be or looks  like
>>
>> 2 - when you are about to throw that part away or  exchange it refer to
> Rule
>> 1
>>
>> The water pump is a stock  Ford 289 cast iron water pump - the difference
> is
>> the position of the  fan hub.
>> I would try to have the original water pump rebuilt but that  is me.
>>
>> Most engine parts are stock Ford parts but there are  also many unique to
>> Tiger parts too - another reason to never throw  parts away.
>>
>> Ron Fraser
>>
>>
>> -----Original  Message-----
>> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Carl  Halgren
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 7:05 PM
>> To:  tigers@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of  Storage
>>
>>
>> Thanks for so much information. I am impressed  with the
>> speed of these
>> responses.
>> B
>> I have  several suggestions on soaking the pistons b  Marvel Mystery oil,
> or
>> atf, or a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone, or diesel fuel.  Decisions,
>> decisions.
>> B
>> This week I managed to free up  the rusted right rear
>> brake.
>> I have ordered a pair of rear  wheel cylinders from Classic Garage. I know
>> the transmission is in  neutral because the un-rusted wheel turns freely
>> (sorta). I have 2  options b  new brake shoes or have the old shoes
> relined.
>> The  shoes have lots of meat on them, but I think I would be safer with
> new
>> linings. B
>> The radiator has green residue along the lower  portion
>> (copper
>> color), and the water level was empty except  for a small amount of green
>> stuff (antifreeze mostly, I guess).  B
>> Since the old water pump will not turn, I
>> know I need a  new
>> water pump b  will the stock Ford pump fit?
>> B
>> A little
>> background on my Tiger MKII.
>> I bought it new. I was  in the Air Force in Omaha,
>> Nebraska,
>> and stopped in to price a  station wagon while in Denver for a rifle
>> competition. No station  wagon, but I ordered a 289 Tiger. Picked it up a
>> month later. It  accompanied me to San Jose for IBM schooling for a couple
>> of
>> months, then back to Omaha for a couple more years. After that, we went
> to
>> NJ where it lived (and died) for many years. I retired 8 years ago  to a
>> small town near Topeka, KS and dragged it with me on a trailer.  It has
> been
>> garaged since 1977. B
>> Thanks,
>> Carl
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/chip.broadbooks@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aaaglasss@aol.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/chip.broadbooks@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 18:21:54 2013
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Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 18:22:26 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <e0a55.1743d6b0.3ef39b9e@aol.com>
	<-5552771236524796939@unknownmsgid>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

>>   This email based group can be very fast  responding.  Someone is
>> usually online most of the  time.
>>
>>

In general, yes.  Last weekend a Triumph owner had broken down and was
hoping for some help, but I was having some serious networking problems
at the time, and it was 16 hours before his message hit the proper lists.
But the network is doing okay this week, thanks to the purchase of some
new hardware, glad to know it was worth it.

Old school technology, but lots of people like it this way, and as long 
as I keep
getting a few dollars donated during the spring fund drive I'll keep it 
going as
best I can.

mjb.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 20:44:04 2013
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From: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 22:42:47 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5tX9k3c5bOBsp4Rxa1OWlJOFNlDw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

In the process of scanning some Classic Motorsports articles on a Tiger
restoration, I noticed the author referring to the improved stopping
distance of the project Tiger as 150 feet from 60 to 0 mph after
installation of the Wilwood Engineering brake kit.  Even the 124 foot 60-0
stopping distance of a heavier Nissan Sentra in a Motor trend test, as the
worst in its class, performs better than the quoted Tiger result.

I have yet to research the details or what tires, temperatures, surface
conditions or measurement accuracies were involved in the article's number.
Could anyone shed some light on whether Tiger stopping distance data exists
elsewhere in the plethora of recorded Tiger documents?  The importance is
that a $1200+ Wilwood front brake kit addition hardly seems worthwhile if
the stopping performance isn't more remarkably improved than hauling a 2560
Lb. SunbeamTiger down from 60 mph in under 120 feet much less 150.

 

Rob

..1560
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
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Subject: [Tigers] Hood release
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Okay, a question/survey.............some cars came with a cable to  release 
the hood and others with a rod.  I have heard that the MK1's came  with a 
rod and everything after came with a cable.
When I got my MK1A over 20 yrs. ago it came with a rod.  It's  hard to 
believe that the cable had been switched for a rod because just about  nothing 
on the car had been changed.  It was as original as you could  find.  On Ebay 
there is a rod for sale that is claimed to come from a  MK1A.....   Item  
#251292299850  .
So, the question is, did anyone else have an original MK 1A   or MK11 that 
came with a rod rather than a cable?
Mark L
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 20:46:50 2013
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From: "csx2282" <csx2282@sonic.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.458.1371686019.2541.tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 19:45:13 -0700
Cc: cghalgren@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Let me bore everyone with my opinion on 289 water pumps.  The original 
pumps, or at least the aluminum one I have, came with cast metal impellers. 
The replacements currently available have stamped sheet metal impellers. 
Maybe okay for a stock, street 289,  but not so good for a HiPo or a motor 
with a bit of tuning.  I recommend getting your original pump rebuilt using 
the cast impeller rather than buying one of these newer replacements.

I found a local auto parts store willing to take this on for me (A & M Motor 
Supply, Los Gatos, CA).  You might want to check around for someone in your 
area willing to rebuild yours.

Roland
 ------------------------------
> From: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
>
> SNIPPED
> Since the old water pump will not turn, I
> know I need a new
> water pump b will the stock Ford pump fit?

> SNIPPED
> Thanks,
> Carl
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 22:53:58 -0400 (EDT)
To: robertdhogan@gmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1371696838;
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I think you hit on the key: tires. Whether oem front caliper/rotor or  
aftermarket, generating enough clamping force to exceed mechanical grip is not a 
 problem. I would guess the kit used included a proportioning valve, to 
allow  better balance, and perhaps had better modulation which is where any 
improvement  in stopping distance likely was found.
 
 
In a message dated 6/19/2013 7:43:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
robertdhogan@gmail.com writes:

In the  process of scanning some Classic Motorsports articles on a  Tiger
restoration, I noticed the author referring to the improved  stopping
distance of the project Tiger as 150 feet from 60 to 0 mph  after
installation of the Wilwood Engineering brake kit.  Even the 124  foot 60-0
stopping distance of a heavier Nissan Sentra in a Motor trend  test, as the
worst in its class, performs better than the quoted Tiger  result.

I have yet to research the details or what tires, temperatures,  surface
conditions or measurement accuracies were involved in the article's  number.
Could anyone shed some light on whether Tiger stopping distance  data exists
elsewhere in the plethora of recorded Tiger documents?   The importance is
that a $1200+ Wilwood front brake kit addition hardly  seems worthwhile if
the stopping performance isn't more remarkably improved  than hauling a 2560
Lb. SunbeamTiger down from 60 mph in under 120 feet  much less  150.



Rob

..1560
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 21:00:23 2013
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From: "Stu Brennan" <stubrennan@comcast.net>
To: <CoolVT@aol.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <897e8.116228b4.3ef3c61e@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 22:58:51 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood release
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

My Mk1A, assembled sometime in the late summer of '66, has a rod release... 
because I installed it.

I'd heard the horror stories about breaking cables, so at a United parts 
swap I saw a rod type release just laying there on a table, waiting for me. 
A few bucks later, I found it bolted right in, no mods required.  So maybe 
somebody else did the same thing, and that's where it came from.

Stu

-----Original Message----- 
From: CoolVT@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 10:42 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Hood release

Okay, a question/survey.............some cars came with a cable to  release
the hood and others with a rod.  I have heard that the MK1's came  with a
rod and everything after came with a cable.
When I got my MK1A over 20 yrs. ago it came with a rod.  It's  hard to
believe that the cable had been switched for a rod because just about 
nothing
on the car had been changed.  It was as original as you could  find.  On 
Ebay
there is a rod for sale that is claimed to come from a  MK1A.....   Item
#251292299850  .
So, the question is, did anyone else have an original MK 1A   or MK11 that
came with a rod rather than a cable?
Mark L
_______________________________________________

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From: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <10f779.16fb075e.3ef3c8c6@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 23:17:27 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5tYWjtmS3+91OgQSm5eyK7IMvqvwAAdw4Q
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

In a later article (#12 of the Flying Tiger by Tim Suddard) on Strengthening
and Upgrading Our sunbeam Tiger's Chassis, the author refers to using
195/55R15 Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec tires.  Whether those were the
same tires quoted as stopping in 160 feet (nee the 150 of expected
improvements with biasing) is to be determined. These tires would seemingly
not be accountable for such poor stopping performance unless I error in the
assumption of a compound not within the extreme of highest mileage and low
adhesion.

 

Rob   

 

From: MWood24020@aol.com [mailto:MWood24020@aol.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 10:54 PM
To: robertdhogan@gmail.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance

 

I think you hit on the key: tires. Whether oem front caliper/rotor or
aftermarket, generating enough clamping force to exceed mechanical grip is
not a problem. I would guess the kit used included a proportioning valve, to
allow better balance, and perhaps had better modulation which is where any
improvement in stopping distance likely was found.

 

In a message dated 6/19/2013 7:43:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
robertdhogan@gmail.com writes:

In the process of scanning some Classic Motorsports articles on a Tiger
restoration, I noticed the author referring to the improved stopping
distance of the project Tiger as 150 feet from 60 to 0 mph after
installation of the Wilwood Engineering brake kit.  Even the 124 foot 60-0
stopping distance of a heavier Nissan Sentra in a Motor trend test, as the
worst in its class, performs better than the quoted Tiger result.

I have yet to research the details or what tires, temperatures, surface
conditions or measurement accuracies were involved in the article's number.
Could anyone shed some light on whether Tiger stopping distance data exists
elsewhere in the plethora of recorded Tiger documents?  The importance is
that a $1200+ Wilwood front brake kit addition hardly seems worthwhile if
the stopping performance isn't more remarkably improved than hauling a 2560
Lb. SunbeamTiger down from 60 mph in under 120 feet much less 150.



Rob

..1560
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 21:54:08 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 23:51:29 -0400 (EDT)
To: robertdhogan@gmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1371700289;
	bh=7lVRdYL8Pm5FEObv8v6OBOOQ3BiQ8bKG2hXnj3Lgmmw=;
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Not a tire issue, then, as the Z1 Star Spec was right at the top of  ultra
high performance street tire category (since replaced with the Z2, which  is
even better).

The next thing I think about is suspension geometry, wheel rates and
anti-dive...I forget what Tim did with that car, did it also have a torque
arm?
;-)


In a message dated 6/19/2013 8:17:07 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
robertdhogan@gmail.com writes:


In  a later article (#12 of the Flying Tiger by Tim Suddard) on
Strengthening and  Upgrading Our sunbeam Tigerbs Chassis, the author refers
to using
195/55R15  Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec tires.  Whether those were the
same  tires quoted as stopping in 160 feet (nee the 150 of expected
improvements  with biasing) is to be determined. These tires would seemingly
not be
accountable for such poor stopping performance unless I error in the
assumption of a compound not within the extreme of highest mileage and low
adhesion.
Rob


From:  MWood24020@aol.com [mailto:MWood24020@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday,  June 19, 2013 10:54 PM
To: robertdhogan@gmail.com;  tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping  Distance


I  think you hit on the key: tires. Whether oem front caliper/rotor or
aftermarket, generating enough clamping force to exceed mechanical grip is not
a problem. I would guess the kit used included a proportioning valve, to
allow  better balance, and perhaps had better modulation which is where any
improvement in stopping distance likely was found.




In a  message dated 6/19/2013 7:43:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
_robertdhogan@gmail.com_ (mailto:robertdhogan@gmail.com)   writes:

In  the process of scanning some Classic Motorsports articles on a  Tiger
restoration, I noticed the author referring to the improved  stopping
distance of the project Tiger as 150 feet from 60 to 0 mph  after
installation of the Wilwood Engineering brake kit.  Even the  124 foot 60-0
stopping distance of a heavier Nissan Sentra in a Motor  trend test, as the
worst in its class, performs better than the quoted  Tiger result.

I have yet to research the details or what tires,  temperatures, surface
conditions or measurement accuracies were involved  in the article's number.
Could anyone shed some light on whether Tiger  stopping distance data exists
elsewhere in the plethora of recorded Tiger  documents?  The importance is
that a $1200+ Wilwood front brake kit  addition hardly seems worthwhile if
the stopping performance isn't more  remarkably improved than hauling a 2560
Lb. SunbeamTiger down from 60 mph  in under 120 feet much less  150.



Rob

..1560
_______________________________________________

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From: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <10c2bb.da34318.3ef3d641@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 00:26:39 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5taXMTtUT3gyjIQVS76cLwD8YpVQAAtJiw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have not read that a torque arm or traction master kit was used on the rear
suspension.  Paragraphs following the braking performance indicate higher rate
front springs and Dalebs Restorations thicker rear springs were later
elected to improve on track performance.



In doing a cursory internet search, the complexity of the braking performance
questions are revealed regarding decision lag time, braking g levels and other
variables in quoted performance.  Certainly the Car & Driver, Road & Track and
Motor Trend magazinesb tested braking performance figures must have a
standard for correlation.  One internet blog description provided the
following data:



Some 60-0 braking times in a past issue of Road & Track (April 2013). If you
are thinking of some particular cars I could look them up for you if they're
in there.



Here are a few popular models:



Subaru Impreza WRX STi Limited 119'

Volkswagen Golf R 130'

Toyota Prius C 128'

Subaru BRZ Premium 128'

Mitsubishi Lancer EVO GSR 123'

Mini Cooper S 119'

Mazda 3i Touring 135'

Kia Optima Turbo 135'

Ferrari 458 Italia 106'

Corvette ZR1 105'

BMW 328i Sedan 123'

Chrysler 300S 129'



June 2013 Motor Trend:

Dodge Viper 94'



Ibve directed my question of comparable results directly to Wilwood
Engineering:



Does Wilwood have any comparable stopping distance information of a Sunbeam
Tiger OEM stock Disc/Drum brake system performance and the Wilwood brake kit
performance?



A Classic Motorsports article on a Sunbeam Tiger referred to the improved
stopping distance of the project Tiger as 160 feet from 60 to 0 mph after
installation of the Wilwood Engineering brake kit.  The 160 foot stopping
distance would seem to be an abysmal number in comparison to most compact
sedans' current 115 to 125 foot stopping distances.



From: MWood24020@aol.com [mailto:MWood24020@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 11:51 PM
To: robertdhogan@gmail.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance



Not a tire issue, then, as the Z1 Star Spec was right at the top of ultra high
performance street tire category (since replaced with the Z2, which is even
better).



The next thing I think about is suspension geometry, wheel rates and
anti-dive...I forget what Tim did with that car, did it also have a torque
arm? ;-)



In a message dated 6/19/2013 8:17:07 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
robertdhogan@gmail.com writes:

In a later article (#12 of the Flying Tiger by Tim Suddard) on Strengthening
and Upgrading Our sunbeam Tigerbs Chassis, the author refers to using
195/55R15 Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec tires.  Whether those were the
same tires quoted as stopping in 160 feet (nee the 150 of expected
improvements with biasing) is to be determined. These tires would seemingly
not be accountable for such poor stopping performance unless I error in the
assumption of a compound not within the extreme of highest mileage and low
adhesion.



Rob



From: MWood24020@aol.com [mailto:MWood24020@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 10:54 PM
To: robertdhogan@gmail.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance



I think you hit on the key: tires. Whether oem front caliper/rotor or
aftermarket, generating enough clamping force to exceed mechanical grip is not
a problem. I would guess the kit used included a proportioning valve, to allow
better balance, and perhaps had better modulation which is where any
improvement in stopping distance likely was found.



In a message dated 6/19/2013 7:43:02 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
robertdhogan@gmail.com writes:

In the process of scanning some Classic Motorsports articles on a Tiger
restoration, I noticed the author referring to the improved stopping
distance of the project Tiger as 150 feet from 60 to 0 mph after
installation of the Wilwood Engineering brake kit.  Even the 124 foot 60-0
stopping distance of a heavier Nissan Sentra in a Motor trend test, as the
worst in its class, performs better than the quoted Tiger result.

I have yet to research the details or what tires, temperatures, surface
conditions or measurement accuracies were involved in the article's number.
Could anyone shed some light on whether Tiger stopping distance data exists
elsewhere in the plethora of recorded Tiger documents?  The importance is
that a $1200+ Wilwood front brake kit addition hardly seems worthwhile if
the stopping performance isn't more remarkably improved than hauling a 2560
Lb. SunbeamTiger down from 60 mph in under 120 feet much less 150.



Rob

..1560
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From: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 00:47:35 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5tcUhSGAWhf2VUSseuJshsh8LV5Q==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Regardless of anti-lock or not, the point is what was the stopping distance
of a Tiger's stock braking system and how much was that stopping distance
reduced by adding a $1200+ Wilwood front braking kit?

Secondarily, how does the Wilwood equipped Tiger compare in stopping
performance to more modern vehicles if the same measurement criteria are
applied?

 

-----Original Message-----

From: jay.laifman@gmail.com [mailto:jay.laifman@gmail.com] 

Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 12:29 AM

To: Robert D. Hogan; tigers-bounces@autox.team.net; tigers@autox.team.net

Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance

 

Maybe I missed it.  But these cars all have anti lock brakes. 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 22:55:26 2013
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 21:52:07 -0700
To: "tigers@autox.team.net Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Bizarre Running Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok, this one doesn't strike a chord with me from hearing similar stuff
before.

As before, I recently rebuilt the Holley.  I had an issue with no running
below 2,000 rpm.  I raised the front float level, adjusted the idle screws and
the idle and all was good.  I went on a number of drives and it seemed fine.

But today, when driving to work, it still ran fine, until about 45 minutes
into the drive - long after the temp gauge was already reading normal
operating temp.  Then it would die when I came to idle.

I looked on line and it suggested a vacuum leak or the float was too high.
But no vacuum line is remotely loose and I would think this would show its
head earlier in the drive.

Then on the way home, I hit terrible terrible traffic.  It was mostly idle for
a long time, then inch forward.  But, still the car was fine.  It held temp
just fine, and idle.  Then some time about 45-60 minutes into this 2 hour
drive, it started stalling again if I went down to idle.  And now the engine
ran a bit rough below 2,000 rpm.  Not bad like before I adjusted the float.
But not good either.

At every stop, even the last stop before my house, it would stall unless I was
able to catch it and lightly rev the engine to keep it going.  Note that it
would stall EVEN IF I didn't hit the brakes or slow down.  It was not
servo/braking/change of angle/fuel sloshing related.  I could be driving along
and press in the clutch, lift my foot off the gas, and it would drop to 0 rpm
and stall.

Then I got home, pulled up to the house, and fully expected it to stall again.
Now it didn't stall and it seemed to be smooth again.

My thought was that there is something wrong with that front float.  Like
perhaps something causes it to expand and it is sticking, or some other
bizarre thing.  But that doesn't fully explain the behavior.  Because the
front float didn't match the rear one, and it is adjusting oddly (because it
has to be lifted quite a bit off of horizontal to run right), I think I'm
going to order the newer float and install it and see what happens.
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 21:52:40 -0700
References: <006501ce6d71$49130b80$db392280$@com>
To: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ah.  I thought with all the cars listed, that there was some comparison
between what the Tiger could do and other cars.


On Jun 19, 2013, at 9:47 PM, Robert D. Hogan wrote:

> Regardless of anti-lock or not, the point is what was the stopping distance
> of a Tiger's stock braking system and how much was that stopping distance
> reduced by adding a $1200+ Wilwood front braking kit?
>
> Secondarily, how does the Wilwood equipped Tiger compare in stopping
> performance to more modern vehicles if the same measurement criteria are
> applied?
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: jay.laifman@gmail.com [mailto:jay.laifman@gmail.com]
>
> Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 12:29 AM
>
> To: Robert D. Hogan; tigers-bounces@autox.team.net; tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
>
>
>
> Maybe I missed it.  But these cars all have anti lock brakes.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 22:56:07 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 00:54:09 -0400 (EDT)
To: robertdhogan@gmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
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ABS. all other things being equal, doesn't equate to shorter braking  
distances...supposing the driver can maintain threshold braking without  
incurring lock up in a non-ABS car. 
 
 
In a message dated 6/19/2013 9:47:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
robertdhogan@gmail.com writes:

Regardless of anti-lock or not, the point is what was the stopping  distance
of a Tiger's stock braking system and how much was that stopping  distance
reduced by adding a $1200+ Wilwood front braking  kit?

Secondarily, how does the Wilwood equipped Tiger compare in  stopping
performance to more modern vehicles if the same measurement  criteria are
applied?



-----Original  Message-----

From: jay.laifman@gmail.com [mailto:jay.laifman@gmail.com]  

Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 12:29 AM

To: Robert D. Hogan;  tigers-bounces@autox.team.net; tigers@autox.team.net

Subject: Re:  [Tigers] Stopping Distance



Maybe I missed it.  But these  cars all have anti lock brakes.  
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 21:56:03 -0700
To: "tigers@autox.team.net Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Odd advice from Edlebrock
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

While I'm on the subject, I thought I'd mention what the tech guy at Edlebrock
told me.  I determined that the narrow band air/gas meter on my car is an
Edlebrock.  I called them to ask about how well it worked, and how to best
read it. I told him that it reads mostly with all 4 green lights on, sometimes
flickering the first of two yellow lights.  That means it is running on the
rich side at 13:1+.  He said that it would be better if I was only lighting
two of the green lights.  He suggested that rather than first trying to change
jets in the carb, I try advancing the timing by 2 degrees.

That sure sounded odd to me.  Sure, perhaps timing could lean the car a
little.  But, if I'm already at max advance based upon the risk of pinging,
which he would have no idea, doesn't that create greater issues to push the
advance up?
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 23:03:37 2013
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 22:01:58 -0700
References: <4abb1.70365bf2.3ef3e4f0@aol.com>
To: MWood24020@aol.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, but how many people can really maintain threshold braking without ABS?
I'm sure we all want to believe we can - and I'm sure some of us can.  But,
it's also like the new dual clutch manual transmissions that are shifted
electronically.  There was a long time that I knew that people who knew how
and when to shift, would be faster and more fuel efficient than someone in one
of the automatics and even some of the electronic manuals.  So a sports car
driver would of course properly want a stick.  Even if there was no way to
prove if I had that capability - as much as I want to believe it - I don't
know for sure.  But, now with these dual clutch manuals, as far as I
understand it, there really is no question that the non-manual clutch beats
even the best manual clutch driver.  So, someone who really wants a "real"
performance car, with the best performance, will have to pick a non-manual
dual clutch transmission.

So back to ABS.  In theory, we are all able to threshold brake and we can all
brake in top form to calculate ultimate stopping distances for our cars.  And
I'm sure plenty will say that I can only speak for myself.  But, I'm thinking
that's only a theory that hasn't really be proven.


On Jun 19, 2013, at 9:54 PM, MWood24020@aol.com wrote:

> ABS. all other things being equal, doesn't equate to shorter braking
> distances...supposing the driver can maintain threshold braking without
> incurring lock up in a non-ABS car.
>
>
> In a message dated 6/19/2013 9:47:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> robertdhogan@gmail.com writes:
>
> Regardless of anti-lock or not, the point is what was the stopping
distance
> of a Tiger's stock braking system and how much was that stopping  distance
> reduced by adding a $1200+ Wilwood front braking  kit?
>
> Secondarily, how does the Wilwood equipped Tiger compare in  stopping
> performance to more modern vehicles if the same measurement  criteria are
> applied?
>
>
>
> -----Original  Message-----
>
> From: jay.laifman@gmail.com [mailto:jay.laifman@gmail.com]
>
> Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 12:29 AM
>
> To: Robert D. Hogan;  tigers-bounces@autox.team.net; tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Subject: Re:  [Tigers] Stopping Distance
>
>
>
> Maybe I missed it.  But these  cars all have anti lock brakes.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 19 23:12:13 2013
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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 00:10:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: bucktrippel@verizon.net
To: robertdhogan@gmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike makes good points. My experience is also that the stock front calipers and rotors have enough clamping force to lock up the front wheels, even without the booster when using typical street tires. More tire patch would make the car stop shorter.  Braking distance varies with the choice of friction material. BTW, our tests showed that modern high performance pads can really help the Tiger's stopping distance.

With modern pads, our race tiger's stopping power with stock brakes is not a problem. The problem is heat build up.  After awhile the heat does crazy things (pad fade, pad transfer or boiling fluid.) This occurs even with a lot of cooling air. Vented rotors are simply less susceptable to these heat problems. If you are racing in a class that allows vented rotors or doing a long mountain drive, vented rotors are a good choice. (For years Tigers have used Nissan vented rotors.) Now we have another choice with the Wildwood kit.

Over a decade ago we did some brake testing of stock Tiger brakes on a closed course usually used by a local police department. The police used the heck out of it, so much so the asphalt was breaking down. The surface had a lot of loose pebbles from the aggregate. In fact, wide racing slicks actually performed worse than narrower street tires because of the ball bearing effect of this gravel. This showed me I need to consider the surface when comparing brake tests. To be honest, I have not idea if R&T tests on new pavement, old (less grippy) pavement, asphalt or concrete. 

I guess the best idea is to do a before and after testing on the  same surface.

bt
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 00:58:32 2013
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	<3D55388FCAFD4B0490D84B2269593333@Cobra>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 02:54:58 -0400
From: Chip Broadbooks <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
To: csx2282 <csx2282@sonic.net>
Cc: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have an Edelbrock on my Dad's. It seems some guys did a pretty extensive
study on Tiger overheating issues and found the HiPo water pumps were not
so good keeping the Tiger cool at idle, which is an issue I am currently
trying to resolve. Their study is on the TEAE website.

I haven't a clue to where the original one is. :(
On Jun 19, 2013 10:45 PM, "csx2282" <csx2282@sonic.net> wrote:

> Let me bore everyone with my opinion on 289 water pumps.  The original
> pumps, or at least the aluminum one I have, came with cast metal impellers.
> The replacements currently available have stamped sheet metal impellers.
> Maybe okay for a stock, street 289,  but not so good for a HiPo or a motor
> with a bit of tuning.  I recommend getting your original pump rebuilt using
> the cast impeller rather than buying one of these newer replacements.
>
> I found a local auto parts store willing to take this on for me (A & M
> Motor Supply, Los Gatos, CA).  You might want to check around for someone
> in your area willing to rebuild yours.
>
> Roland
> ------------------------------
>
>> From: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
>>
>> SNIPPED
>> Since the old water pump will not turn, I
>> know I need a new
>> water pump b  will the stock Ford pump fit?
>>
>
>  SNIPPED
>> Thanks,
>> Carl
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 01:35:55 2013
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	<11733342EF5A455AB519C6EFF0767AA8@sbrennanPC>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 03:33:56 -0400
From: Chip Broadbooks <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood release
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Mine is the same as Stu's. It was a cable when my Dad had it. I switched
over to a rod. For the same reason.
On Jun 19, 2013 10:59 PM, "Stu Brennan" <stubrennan@comcast.net> wrote:

> My Mk1A, assembled sometime in the late summer of '66, has a rod
> release... because I installed it.
>
> I'd heard the horror stories about breaking cables, so at a United parts
> swap I saw a rod type release just laying there on a table, waiting for me.
> A few bucks later, I found it bolted right in, no mods required.  So maybe
> somebody else did the same thing, and that's where it came from.
>
> Stu
>
> -----Original Message----- From: CoolVT@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 10:42 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Hood release
>
> Okay, a question/survey.............**some cars came with a cable to
>  release
> the hood and others with a rod.  I have heard that the MK1's came  with a
> rod and everything after came with a cable.
> When I got my MK1A over 20 yrs. ago it came with a rod.  It's  hard to
> believe that the cable had been switched for a rod because just about
> nothing
> on the car had been changed.  It was as original as you could  find.  On
> Ebay
> there is a rod for sale that is claimed to come from a  MK1A.....   Item
> #251292299850  .
> So, the question is, did anyone else have an original MK 1A   or MK11 that
> came with a rod rather than a cable?
> Mark L
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 02:49:33 2013
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From: "denis mercier" <denismercier@telvic.net>
To: "Stu Brennan" <stubrennan@comcast.net>, <CoolVT@aol.com>,
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <897e8.116228b4.3ef3c61e@aol.com>
	<11733342EF5A455AB519C6EFF0767AA8@sbrennanPC>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 04:47:08 -0400
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood release
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

My Tiger was assembled at the end of 65 for the 1966 year market and came 
originaly with rod.
Denis
B382000926LRXFE
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stu Brennan" <stubrennan@comcast.net>
To: <CoolVT@aol.com>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood release


> My Mk1A, assembled sometime in the late summer of '66, has a rod 
> release... because I installed it.
>
> I'd heard the horror stories about breaking cables, so at a United parts 
> swap I saw a rod type release just laying there on a table, waiting for 
> me. A few bucks later, I found it bolted right in, no mods required.  So 
> maybe somebody else did the same thing, and that's where it came from.
>
> Stu
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: CoolVT@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 10:42 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Hood release
>
> Okay, a question/survey.............some cars came with a cable to 
> release
> the hood and others with a rod.  I have heard that the MK1's came  with a
> rod and everything after came with a cable.
> When I got my MK1A over 20 yrs. ago it came with a rod.  It's  hard to
> believe that the cable had been switched for a rod because just about 
> nothing
> on the car had been changed.  It was as original as you could  find.  On 
> Ebay
> there is a rod for sale that is claimed to come from a  MK1A.....   Item
> #251292299850  .
> So, the question is, did anyone else have an original MK 1A   or MK11 that
> came with a rod rather than a cable?
> Mark L
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/stubrennan@comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From: Jeff Feit <jeff@feitmail.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 06:30:17 -0400
To: Tigers List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Stopping distance testing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

A few things about stopping distances, having been involved with this kind of
testing before.

Certainly the surface used and test conditions can vary a lot, which has a big
effect. The big magazines like to do most of their testing at the same
location when possible-- but they don't always. If they are testing a car at a
remote location, they make do with whatever they can find. My guess is that
Classic Motorsports doesn't have access to a good test surface.

More importantly, there are 2 factors that have a huge impact on the stopping
distance, that have nothing to do with the ultimate deceleration capability--
how the test is run, and how quickly the car can build up deceleration.

Think about this. The 60 mph starting speed is 88 feet/second. What do you
consider the start of the test? Do you use a brake pedal switch (this is what
automakers use, but magazines don't)? Brake pressure switch? What pressure? Do
you signal the driver to start the brake event (adding driver reaction time)?
Trigger at .10g? .50g? The method can easily account for 1/2 second
difference, which is 44ft at 60mph.

Then there is the fact that a car can't instantly go from zero to maximum
decel, and the things that affect this often don't have anything to do with
maximum decel capability. Things like the suspension, shocks, stiffness of the
brake components (calipers, lines, pedal) will effect how fast the decel can
build up-- and at a starting speed of 88ft/s it makes a big difference. The
effect would show more if you trigger off a brake pedal switch than if you
trigger at .50g.

So, while in theory a "better" brake system shouldn't improve stopping
distances with the same tires, in reality it does. As Pirelli likes to say,
"power is nothing without control".
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 04:34:34 2013
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From: Jeff Feit <jeff@feitmail.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 06:30:29 -0400
To: Tigers List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Stopping distance testing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

A few things about stopping distances, having been involved with this kind of
testing before.

Certainly the surface used and test conditions can vary a lot, which has a big
effect. The big magazines like to do most of their testing at the same
location when possible-- but they don't always. If they are testing a car at a
remote location, they make do with whatever they can find. My guess is that
Classic Motorsports doesn't have access to a good test surface.

More importantly, there are 2 factors that have a huge impact on the stopping
distance, that have nothing to do with the ultimate deceleration capability--
how the test is run, and how quickly the car can build up deceleration.

Think about this. The 60 mph starting speed is 88 feet/second. What do you
consider the start of the test? Do you use a pedal switch (this is what
automakers use, but magazines don't)? Do you signal the driver to start the
brake event (adding driver reaction time)? Trigger at .10g? .50g? The method
can easily account for 1/2 second difference, which is 44ft at 60mph.

Then there is the fact that a car can't instantly go from zero to maximum
decel, and the things that affect this often don't have anything to do with
maximum decel capability. Things like the suspension, shocks, stiffness of the
brake components (calipers, lines, pedal) will effect how fast the decel can
build up-- and at a starting speed of 88ft/s it makes a big difference.
_______________________________________________

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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Jay Laifman'" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 08:26:36 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bizarre Running Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay
	That does seem bizarre.  I'll have to ponder on that one for awhile.
You maybe on the right track with the float it does seem like fuel problem

I do suggest you check the timing and the timing advance curve, also make
sure the vacuum advance canister will hold vacuum.  Make sure the initial
timing is always returning to the same point.  Make sure all the wire
connections to and from the distributor are good.   I worked on one car that
had all kinds of bizarre problems until I found the distributor advance was
hanging up and messing up the initial timing every time the throttle was
touched.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 12:52 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net Den
Subject: [Tigers] Bizarre Running Issue


Ok, this one doesn't strike a chord with me from hearing similar stuff
before.

As before, I recently rebuilt the Holley.  I had an issue with no running
below 2,000 rpm.  I raised the front float level, adjusted the idle screws
and the idle and all was good.  I went on a number of drives and it seemed
fine.

But today, when driving to work, it still ran fine, until about 45 minutes
into the drive - long after the temp gauge was already reading normal
operating temp.  Then it would die when I came to idle.

I looked on line and it suggested a vacuum leak or the float was too high.
But no vacuum line is remotely loose and I would think this would show its
head earlier in the drive.

Then on the way home, I hit terrible terrible traffic.  It was mostly idle
for a long time, then inch forward.  But, still the car was fine.  It held
temp just fine, and idle.  Then some time about 45-60 minutes into this 2
hour drive, it started stalling again if I went down to idle.  And now the
engine ran a bit rough below 2,000 rpm.  Not bad like before I adjusted the
float. But not good either.

At every stop, even the last stop before my house, it would stall unless I
was able to catch it and lightly rev the engine to keep it going.  Note that
it would stall EVEN IF I didn't hit the brakes or slow down.  It was not
servo/braking/change of angle/fuel sloshing related.  I could be driving
along and press in the clutch, lift my foot off the gas, and it would drop
to 0 rpm and stall.

Then I got home, pulled up to the house, and fully expected it to stall
again. Now it didn't stall and it seemed to be smooth again.

My thought was that there is something wrong with that front float.  Like
perhaps something causes it to expand and it is sticking, or some other
bizarre thing.  But that doesn't fully explain the behavior.  Because the
front float didn't match the rear one, and it is adjusting oddly (because it
has to be lifted quite a bit off of horizontal to run right), I think I'm
going to order the newer float and install it and see what happens.
_______________________________________________

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Unsubscribe:
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From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers - start of bonnet 'cable'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Officially, the first Tiger to get the 'improved' bonnet cable was Tiger IA # 1826, according to Bill Carroll's book, and
the parts catalogue, which may have been where Mr. Carroll got his information.

My IA #48 came with the rod design, but I also got the later cable design at a United out west.

On Alpine V's, the cable design began with #4386.

Rande Bellman
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 06:37:16 2013
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 05:34:35 -0700
References: <E8719837A4A54EE9A31DD4B881865915@ronpc1>
To: <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bizarre Running Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

You mention one thing that I noticed while I was working on the carb, and I
meant to go back and address.  The vacuum advance hose is fine at the carb
end.  But at the distributor end, the attachment part points pretty much right
at one of the radiator hoses, and the vacuum hose was being bent at that
point.  It didn't seem like it was fully pinched or that it had a hole in it.

I was going too see if I could find some sort of hard 90 degree elbow that I
could put on right there.  I thought of it during my 2 hour drive.  But I
didn't think it could be the cause of this.

Jay


On Jun 20, 2013, at 5:26 AM, Ron Fraser wrote:

> Jay
> 	That does seem bizarre.  I'll have to ponder on that one for awhile.
> You maybe on the right track with the float it does seem like fuel problem
>
> I do suggest you check the timing and the timing advance curve, also make
> sure the vacuum advance canister will hold vacuum.  Make sure the initial
> timing is always returning to the same point.  Make sure all the wire
> connections to and from the distributor are good.   I worked on one car
that
> had all kinds of bizarre problems until I found the distributor advance was
> hanging up and messing up the initial timing every time the throttle was
> touched.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
> Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 12:52 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net Den
> Subject: [Tigers] Bizarre Running Issue
>
>
> Ok, this one doesn't strike a chord with me from hearing similar stuff
> before.
>
> As before, I recently rebuilt the Holley.  I had an issue with no running
> below 2,000 rpm.  I raised the front float level, adjusted the idle screws
> and the idle and all was good.  I went on a number of drives and it seemed
> fine.
>
> But today, when driving to work, it still ran fine, until about 45 minutes
> into the drive - long after the temp gauge was already reading normal
> operating temp.  Then it would die when I came to idle.
>
> I looked on line and it suggested a vacuum leak or the float was too high.
> But no vacuum line is remotely loose and I would think this would show its
> head earlier in the drive.
>
> Then on the way home, I hit terrible terrible traffic.  It was mostly idle
> for a long time, then inch forward.  But, still the car was fine.  It held
> temp just fine, and idle.  Then some time about 45-60 minutes into this 2
> hour drive, it started stalling again if I went down to idle.  And now the
> engine ran a bit rough below 2,000 rpm.  Not bad like before I adjusted the
> float. But not good either.
>
> At every stop, even the last stop before my house, it would stall unless I
> was able to catch it and lightly rev the engine to keep it going.  Note
that
> it would stall EVEN IF I didn't hit the brakes or slow down.  It was not
> servo/braking/change of angle/fuel sloshing related.  I could be driving
> along and press in the clutch, lift my foot off the gas, and it would drop
> to 0 rpm and stall.
>
> Then I got home, pulled up to the house, and fully expected it to stall
> again. Now it didn't stall and it seemed to be smooth again.
>
> My thought was that there is something wrong with that front float.  Like
> perhaps something causes it to expand and it is sticking, or some other
> bizarre thing.  But that doesn't fully explain the behavior.  Because the
> front float didn't match the rear one, and it is adjusting oddly (because
it
> has to be lifted quite a bit off of horizontal to run right), I think I'm
> going to order the newer float and install it and see what happens.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
_______________________________________________

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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Jay Laifman'" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 08:45:27 -0400
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bizarre Running Issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay
	Sounds like you have the original style vacuum can.  The hard line
bend there is very sharp. I think possibly the original upper radiator hose
had a different contour.
	I installed a Crane vacuum advance can with a rubber 90 to some
plastic hard line.

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Laifman [mailto:jay.laifman@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 8:35 AM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bizarre Running Issue


You mention one thing that I noticed while I was working on the carb, and I
meant to go back and address.  The vacuum advance hose is fine at the carb
end.  But at the distributor end, the attachment part points pretty much
right at one of the radiator hoses, and the vacuum hose was being bent at
that point.  It didn't seem like it was fully pinched or that it had a hole
in it.

I was going too see if I could find some sort of hard 90 degree elbow that I
could put on right there.  I thought of it during my 2 hour drive.  But I
didn't think it could be the cause of this.

Jay


On Jun 20, 2013, at 5:26 AM, Ron Fraser wrote:

> Jay
> 	That does seem bizarre.  I'll have to ponder on that one for awhile.

> You maybe on the right track with the float it does seem like fuel
> problem
>
> I do suggest you check the timing and the timing advance curve, also
> make sure the vacuum advance canister will hold vacuum.  Make sure the
> initial timing is always returning to the same point.  Make sure all the
wire
> connections to and from the distributor are good.   I worked on one car
that
> had all kinds of bizarre problems until I found the distributor
> advance was hanging up and messing up the initial timing every time
> the throttle was touched.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
> Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 12:52 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net Den
> Subject: [Tigers] Bizarre Running Issue
>
>
> Ok, this one doesn't strike a chord with me from hearing similar stuff
> before.
>
> As before, I recently rebuilt the Holley.  I had an issue with no
> running below 2,000 rpm.  I raised the front float level, adjusted the
> idle screws and the idle and all was good.  I went on a number of
> drives and it seemed fine.
>
> But today, when driving to work, it still ran fine, until about 45
> minutes into the drive - long after the temp gauge was already reading
> normal operating temp.  Then it would die when I came to idle.
>
> I looked on line and it suggested a vacuum leak or the float was too
> high. But no vacuum line is remotely loose and I would think this
> would show its head earlier in the drive.
>
> Then on the way home, I hit terrible terrible traffic.  It was mostly
> idle for a long time, then inch forward.  But, still the car was fine.
> It held temp just fine, and idle.  Then some time about 45-60 minutes
> into this 2 hour drive, it started stalling again if I went down to
> idle.  And now the engine ran a bit rough below 2,000 rpm.  Not bad
> like before I adjusted the float. But not good either.
>
> At every stop, even the last stop before my house, it would stall
> unless I was able to catch it and lightly rev the engine to keep it
> going.  Note that it would stall EVEN IF I didn't hit the brakes or
> slow down.  It was not servo/braking/change of angle/fuel sloshing
> related.  I could be driving along and press in the clutch, lift my
> foot off the gas, and it would drop to 0 rpm and stall.
>
> Then I got home, pulled up to the house, and fully expected it to
> stall again. Now it didn't stall and it seemed to be smooth again.
>
> My thought was that there is something wrong with that front float.
> Like perhaps something causes it to expand and it is sticking, or some
> other bizarre thing.  But that doesn't fully explain the behavior.
> Because the front float didn't match the rear one, and it is adjusting
> oddly (because it has to be lifted quite a bit off of horizontal to
> run right), I think I'm going to order the newer float and install it
> and see what happens. _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 07:40:39 2013
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In a message dated 6/20/2013 12:54:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jay.laifman@gmail.com writes:

But  today, when driving to work, it still ran fine, until about 45 minutes
into  the drive - long after the temp gauge was already reading normal
operating  temp.  Then it would die when I came to  idle.




Have you considered a plugged gas tank vent? It's  easy to check. Just  pop 
the cap and try to start it when it stalls. 
 
John Logan
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 08:02:18 2013
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From: "Paul R. Breuhan" <prbreuhan@hotmail.com>
To: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>, Tigers Den
  <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 10:00:40 -0400
References: <1371670587.56804.YahooMailNeo@web142603.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	FILETIME=[8CEF2620:01CE6DBE]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
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Carl,
Getting it to run can be done...but I wouldn't recommend it.

Years ago my dad put his Corvette into storage. Basically parked it in the
garage and it sat for about 35 years.

10 Years ago as my dad neared retirement, my mom decided she wanted to move
and sell the house, since it was becoming a physical burden to maintain...so
the light went off in his head to get his old car running again.

Like Carl's Tiger he had a laundry list of issues and things to check before
he could get it running with his goal of driving it my parent's new condo.

He spent hour ...after hour ...after hour ...after hour ...after hour ...after
hour (do I have enough hours here????) ...he finally got it to turn over and
run a bit on it's own power. He ended up trailering it to their new place.

2 more years of working  ...after hour ...after hour ...after hour ...after
hour ...after hour...it was finally road worthy. I was amazed and thought he
just might pull this nonsense off.

About 500 miles later...and 2 broken rings...and a camshaft that was wiped
out...my dad pulled the engine.

For all his time and effort...he just should have pulled it in the first
place. He still isn't driving the car a lot...he is just too darn cheap and
stubborn to get the fuel injection unit rebuilt. I told him to go out and get
a cheap carb and intake temporarily.

Carl, good luck with whatever you decide and do.

Paul


> Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 12:36:27 -0700
> From: cghalgren@yahoo.com
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
>
> All,
> I am finally attempting to get my Tiger back on the road after 35 years
> in the garage...............
>
> Carl Halgren
> CGHalgren@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 08:10:44 2013
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From: "Doornbos, Daniel" <daniel.doornbos@intel.com>
To: "jay.laifman@gmail.com" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>,
	"tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Bizarre Running Issue
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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 14:08:51 +0000
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Subject: [Tigers]  Bizarre Running Issue
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What about the fuel pump?  Electric right?  What if it's getting old and
doesn't like running when the fuel is running at low flow and most restricted
at idle but then the pump does fine when running with throttle open?

Also sounds like an electrical pump to me because of the time factor and
inconsistency.  Your carb is largely mechanical and time shouldn't be a factor
in the poor performance.  Yet electronic pumps as the contacts wear would be
more susceptible to this kind of problem.

dan
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 09:42:26 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 11:40:30 -0400 (EDT)
To: bucktrippel@verizon.net, robertdhogan@gmail.com,
  tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
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I agree, heat build and dissipation are where a kit like Wilwood's  adds 
value. 
 
 
In a message dated 6/19/2013 10:11:04 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
bucktrippel@verizon.net writes:

Mike  makes good points. My experience is also that the stock front 
calipers and  rotors have enough clamping force to lock up the front wheels, even 
without  the booster when using typical street tires. More tire patch would 
make the  car stop shorter.  Braking distance varies with the choice of 
friction  material. BTW, our tests showed that modern high performance pads can 
really  help the Tiger's stopping distance.

With modern pads, our race tiger's  stopping power with stock brakes is not 
a problem. The problem is heat build  up.  After awhile the heat does crazy 
things (pad fade, pad transfer or  boiling fluid.) This occurs even with a 
lot of cooling air. Vented rotors are  simply less susceptable to these heat 
problems. If you are racing in a class  that allows vented rotors or doing 
a long mountain drive, vented rotors are a  good choice. (For years Tigers 
have used Nissan vented rotors.) Now we have  another choice with the 
Wildwood kit.

Over a decade ago we did some  brake testing of stock Tiger brakes on a 
closed course usually used by a local  police department. The police used the 
heck out of it, so much so the asphalt  was breaking down. The surface had a 
lot of loose pebbles from the aggregate.  In fact, wide racing slicks 
actually performed worse than narrower street  tires because of the ball bearing 
effect of this gravel. This showed me I need  to consider the surface when 
comparing brake tests. To be honest, I have not  idea if R&T tests on new 
pavement, old (less grippy) pavement, asphalt or  concrete. 

I guess the best idea is to do a before and after testing on  the  same  
surface.

bt
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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 11:46:54 -0400 (EDT)
To: jeff@feitmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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Those are really helpful points to consider, thanks.
 
The methodology aspect is really just about comparing apples to apples, but 
 the point about "stiffness of brake components" is key. It doesn't effect  
threshold limit, but compressing the time it takes the system to get to 
that  point is significant. Also, as I wrote earlier, it can pay dividends in 
more  accurate modulation of a non-ABS system/
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 6/20/2013 3:32:53 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
jeff@feitmail.com writes:

A few  things about stopping distances, having been involved with this kind 
 of
testing before.

Certainly the surface used and test conditions  can vary a lot, which has a 
big
effect. The big magazines like to do most  of their testing at the same
location when possible-- but they don't  always. If they are testing a car 
at a
remote location, they make do with  whatever they can find. My guess is that
Classic Motorsports doesn't have  access to a good test surface.

More importantly, there are 2 factors  that have a huge impact on the 
stopping
distance, that have nothing to do  with the ultimate deceleration 
capability--
how the test is run, and how  quickly the car can build up deceleration.

Think about this. The 60 mph  starting speed is 88 feet/second. What do you
consider the start of the  test? Do you use a brake pedal switch (this is 
what
automakers use, but  magazines don't)? Brake pressure switch? What 
pressure? Do
you signal the  driver to start the brake event (adding driver reaction 
time)?
Trigger at  .10g? .50g? The method can easily account for 1/2 second
difference, which  is 44ft at 60mph.

Then there is the fact that a car can't instantly go  from zero to maximum
decel, and the things that affect this often don't  have anything to do with
maximum decel capability. Things like the  suspension, shocks, stiffness of 
the
brake components (calipers, lines,  pedal) will effect how fast the decel 
can
build up-- and at a starting  speed of 88ft/s it makes a big difference. The
effect would show more if  you trigger off a brake pedal switch than if you
trigger at  .50g.

So, while in theory a "better" brake system shouldn't improve  stopping
distances with the same tires, in reality it does. As Pirelli  likes to say,
"power is nothing without  control".
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From: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>
To: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <006501ce6d71$49130b80$db392280$@com>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 12:55:41 -0300
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Robert;

I agree with your point of view.

There is lots of good technical info regarding the science and physics of 
braking coming out of the gurus on this List. But when we upgrade the 
brakes, the benchmark should be the performance improvement of the new parts 
when compared to the original equipment, not compared to current vehicles 
with nearly 50 years of development on board.

For sure if you have the motivation and resources to get to state-of-the-art 
performance with your brakes, it id definitely possible. Lots of us on this 
list have doubled and tripled and more the performance of the rubber bands 
under the bonnet.

I have had Wilwoods on my Tiger since before the kits were available from 
Wilwood. I also have a fresh, professionally re-built original equipment 
booster installed, a new stock master cylinder and fresh rear brake pads. I 
do not have a proportioning valve. Important also to mention I have been 
using 15x5.5 front and 15x6 rear alloys with relatively sticky, 6,000 mile 
tires for some years now.

The upgraded brakes are a world of difference from the original equipment 
with skinny 13" wheels and tires, which were working as well as you could 
expect from those old cast iron lumps of callipers and the solid rotors. The 
Wilwoods provide a new sense of security, much greater response with less 
pedal pressure, and linear performance with no fade under relatively 
difficult heat stress while descending long stretches of mountainous road.

How much shorter are braking distances with this new equipment? I surely 
don't know having neither the equipment nor the experience to carry out such 
a test. But the Wilwoods do provide a seat-of-the-pants impression that the 
brakes are much improved, and the sense of security provided is well worth 
the $1200+.

IMHO.

Dave

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 1:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stopping Distance


> Regardless of anti-lock or not, the point is what was the stopping 
> distance
> of a Tiger's stock braking system and how much was that stopping distance
> reduced by adding a $1200+ Wilwood front braking kit?
>
> Secondarily, how does the Wilwood equipped Tiger compare in stopping
> performance to more modern vehicles if the same measurement criteria are
> applied?
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 10:32:12 2013
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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 11:30:13 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: "Paul R. Breuhan" <prbreuhan@hotmail.com>, Carl Halgren
	<cghalgren@yahoo.com>, Tigers Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Paul has given the best option I've read. Even if you manage to break the engine loose you still face unforseen problems. I have no idea your financial position but you have an expensive and highly desiresble Tiger. IF you have a shop.the right tools then take the engine apart and then to a machine shop to see if the block needs bored. Then go from there by replacing the cam and bearings and follow suit depending on the bore. You will have a newly rebuilt engine and you can be replacing rubber, getting brakes and fuel pump gas tanks etc etc in running order.
Tony the Tiger 
Sent from Huawei Mobile

"Paul R. Breuhan" <prbreuhan@hotmail.com> wrote:

>Carl,
>Getting it to run can be done...but I wouldn't recommend it.
>
>Years ago my dad put his Corvette into storage. Basically parked it in the
>garage and it sat for about 35 years.
>
>10 Years ago as my dad neared retirement, my mom decided she wanted to move
>and sell the house, since it was becoming a physical burden to maintain...so
>the light went off in his head to get his old car running again.
>
>Like Carl's Tiger he had a laundry list of issues and things to check before
>he could get it running with his goal of driving it my parent's new condo.
>
>He spent hour ...after hour ...after hour ...after hour ...after hour ...after
>hour (do I have enough hours here????) ...he finally got it to turn over and
>run a bit on it's own power. He ended up trailering it to their new place.
>
>2 more years of working  ...after hour ...after hour ...after hour ...after
>hour ...after hour...it was finally road worthy. I was amazed and thought he
>just might pull this nonsense off.
>
>About 500 miles later...and 2 broken rings...and a camshaft that was wiped
>out...my dad pulled the engine.
>
>For all his time and effort...he just should have pulled it in the first
>place. He still isn't driving the car a lot...he is just too darn cheap and
>stubborn to get the fuel injection unit rebuilt. I told him to go out and get
>a cheap carb and intake temporarily.
>
>Carl, good luck with whatever you decide and do.
>
>Paul
>
>
>> Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 12:36:27 -0700
>> From: cghalgren@yahoo.com
>> To: tigers@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
>>
>> All,
>> I am finally attempting to get my Tiger back on the road after 35 years
>> in the garage...............
>>
>> Carl Halgren
>> CGHalgren@yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/prbreuhan@hotmail.com
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 10:38:17 2013
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From: "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net Den"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 12:36:26 -0400
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Odd advice from Edlebrock
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Odd advice from Edlebrock
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Based on the response from the list I would guess we don't know the answer to
that question.  Good Luck.

Jere

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 9:56 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net Den
Subject: [Tigers] Odd advice from Edlebrock

While I'm on the subject, I thought I'd mention what the tech guy at Edlebrock
told me.  I determined that the narrow band air/gas meter on my car is an
Edlebrock.  I called them to ask about how well it worked, and how to best
read it. I told him that it reads mostly with all 4 green lights on, sometimes
flickering the first of two yellow lights.  That means it is running on the
rich side at 13:1+.  He said that it would be better if I was only lighting
two of the green lights.  He suggested that rather than first trying to change
jets in the carb, I try advancing the timing by 2 degrees.

That sure sounded odd to me.  Sure, perhaps timing could lean the car a
little.  But, if I'm already at max advance based upon the risk of pinging,
which he would have no idea, doesn't that create greater issues to push the
advance up?
_______________________________________________
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net Den"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Odd advice from Edlebrock
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Odd advice from Edlebrock
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Hi Jay,
If you're reading rich, then you're using up all the available oxygen by the
time the fuel/air charge hits the O2 sensor, and there is in fact some unburnt
fuel left. I can't see how getting the combustion going earlier would help
that.

Earlier combustion would give you lower exhaust temperatures, but I'm not sure
how that would help your O2 readings either.

I'm using a PLX wideband O2 sensor... you get much more direct information
than what the earlier narrowband O2 sensors will give you, and they're not
that expensive anymore. I have my gauge stuck where the ammeter usually goes
so it's easily readable, with some silver tape wrapped around the bezel to
dress it up ;)

Theo


________________________________

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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Smit, Theo'" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>, "'Jay Laifman'"
	<jay.laifman@gmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 13:20:34 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5tcnxEEUaWRNztRN6fpYpXTIDkfwAYbgAwAAAYG8AAAUFEIA==
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Odd advice from Edlebrock
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

	Probably the biggest problem with any O2 sensor is knowing what the
actual voltage it is generating and what voltage the lights are triggered.
The next problem could be has the O2 sensor aged and changed Vout, have
components of the light bar changed and they trigger at a different Vin.
You almost have to certify the system every few year to understand the
readings.  You also have to know what these voltages really mean.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Smit, Theo
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 12:44 PM
To: Jay Laifman; tigers@autox.team.net Den
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Odd advice from Edlebrock


Hi Jay,
If you're reading rich, then you're using up all the available oxygen by the
time the fuel/air charge hits the O2 sensor, and there is in fact some
unburnt fuel left. I can't see how getting the combustion going earlier
would help that.

Earlier combustion would give you lower exhaust temperatures, but I'm not
sure how that would help your O2 readings either.

I'm using a PLX wideband O2 sensor... you get much more direct information
than what the earlier narrowband O2 sensors will give you, and they're not
that expensive anymore. I have my gauge stuck where the ammeter usually goes
so it's easily readable, with some silver tape wrapped around the bezel to
dress it up ;)

Theo


________________________________

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This email and any attachments are for the sole use
of the intended recipient(s) and contain information that may be
confidential and/or legally privileged. If you have received this email in
error, please notify the sender by reply email and delete the message. Any
disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this communication (including
attachments) by someone other than the intended recipient is prohibited.
Thank you. _______________________________________________

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From: "Will Seay" <wseay@embarqmail.com>
To: <CoolVT@aol.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <897e8.116228b4.3ef3c61e@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 14:55:51 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood release
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark,
My 1A (1570) came with a rod.

Will Seay_____________
wseay@embarqmail.com
"I think not therefore I am not" (anon)

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of CoolVT@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 10:43 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Hood release

Okay, a question/survey.............some cars came with a cable to  release the
hood and others with a rod.  I have heard that the MK1's came  with a rod and
everything after came with a cable.
When I got my MK1A over 20 yrs. ago it came with a rod.  It's  hard to believe
that the cable had been switched for a rod because just about  nothing on the
car had been changed.  It was as original as you could  find.  On Ebay 
there is a rod for sale that is claimed to come from a  MK1A.....   Item  
#251292299850  .
So, the question is, did anyone else have an original MK 1A   or MK11 that 
came with a rod rather than a cable?
Mark L 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 12:02:28 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
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To: tigers@autox.team.net
References: <D909EC4F-43EF-4380-896F-F1922CE8B0C9@gmail.com>
	<E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E155440229701EC8@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Odd advice from Edlebrock
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, I would want a bit more info before I waded deep into this. 
However, did the tech know you were dealing with a non EFI system?  If 
so then on to the next item. Don't want to advance the dizzy because 
*you think there is a risk it will ping*?  This is not a terribly 
complicated issue, changing the spark advance. Pull the vac hose to the 
dizzy, plug the hose so it does not leak air into the manifold or carb 
and change the timing by a couple of degrees.  Mark where it was first. 
Put vacuum hose on and give it a ride to see how the AFR is doing.  If 
unsuccessful, put it back.   I think I would look for a vacuum leak 
somewhere although running rich (and that isn't really rich at all, bet 
power is at approximately 12.5:1),  would seem to indicate that not much 
of an air leak.  I seem to remember that the power valve was not removed 
during the float and jet change operations.  Why not?  They have a 
diaphragm and spring that permits them to open at some preset manifold 
vacuum level to add to the main jet flow.  If there was one in the 
repair kit, might want to change to that new one.   And if the 
secondaries, vacuum or mechanical?, are open a tad then that might cause 
a high idle which someone might correct with the primary  idle air 
screws or the throttle setting screw.    And if the floats are set too 
high wont that permit more fuel to enter the bowls and cause some over 
flow making it richer also?

I think your main jets are a bit too big...

It has been a long long time since I fiddled with a carb however....

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed

On 6/20/2013 9:36 AM, Teepen, Jere wrote:
> Based on the response from the list I would guess we don't know the answer to
> that question.  Good Luck.
>
> Jere
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Jay Laifman
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 9:56 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net Den
> Subject: [Tigers] Odd advice from Edlebrock
>
> While I'm on the subject, I thought I'd mention what the tech guy at Edlebrock
> told me.  I determined that the narrow band air/gas meter on my car is an
> Edlebrock.  I called them to ask about how well it worked, and how to best
> read it. I told him that it reads mostly with all 4 green lights on, sometimes
> flickering the first of two yellow lights.  That means it is running on the
> rich side at 13:1+.  He said that it would be better if I was only lighting
> two of the green lights.  He suggested that rather than first trying to change
> jets in the carb, I try advancing the timing by 2 degrees.
>
> That sure sounded odd to me.  Sure, perhaps timing could lean the car a
> little.  But, if I'm already at max advance based upon the risk of pinging,
> which he would have no idea, doesn't that create greater issues to push the
> advance up?
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf@mayfco.com
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 16:03:29 -0400 (EDT)
To: wseay@embarqmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood release
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the replies.  The theory that 1A's never came with  a rod seems 
to be incorrect.  The parts book says the change occurred after  #1826 and 
owners with cars are high as 1570 are saying theirs came with a  rod.  I was 
pretty sure that my #1369 had an original rod.  Thanks for  those that 
responded. Now I can get a good night's sleep :-))
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 6/20/2013 2:55:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wseay@embarqmail.com writes:

Mark,
My 1A (1570) came with a rod.

Will  Seay_____________
wseay@embarqmail.com
"I think not therefore I am not"  (anon)

-----Original Message-----
From:  tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] 
 On
Behalf Of CoolVT@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 10:43  PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Hood release

Okay,  a question/survey.............some cars came with a cable to  
release  the
hood and others with a rod.  I have heard that the MK1's  came  with a rod 
and
everything after came with a cable.
When I got  my MK1A over 20 yrs. ago it came with a rod.  It's  hard to  
believe
that the cable had been switched for a rod because just about   nothing on 
the
car had been changed.  It was as original as you  could  find.  On Ebay 
there is a rod for sale that is claimed to  come from a  MK1A.....   Item  
#251292299850   .
So, the question is, did anyone else have an original MK 1A    or MK11 that 
came with a rod rather than a cable?
Mark L  
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


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From: Tiger Man <tigerman67@hotmail.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 14:04:10 -0600
References: <BAY169-W282A020A28293E76EC7B15C1980@phx.gbl>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights  on
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Just thought I would post a followup in case anyone ever has a similar problem
and goes searching through the emails.    And also to thank people on the
board for the help.

 I checked the ammeter, and it zero and calibration seemed very good
(ignition off I think headlights showed about 10-12 amp discharge).

As several people mentioned to me on the board, the petronix is particular
about its voltage.  Even though there are docs that say the 12V petronix will
work down to 8V, the tech at pertonix mentioned that the module is very
sensitive to low voltage, although he didn't comment on what 'low voltage'
meant  But just a partial discharge due to poor performing charging system and
the headlights seems a bit oversensitive.  I guess the module still worked,
but having it cut out abruptly at night for a second is enough to make your
heart stop for a second as well.  I believe I still have a set of regular
points hanging around in the car in case it ever dies on me completely.

I found a new voltage regulator locally in stock in one (and only one) local
auto zone.  Most of the rest of the stores did not perform the parts lookup
correctly online or even in the store there were alot of suggestions that
weren't even close (used a 64 v8 falcon as my target vehicle).  While looking
at it and where it needed to go, I was thinking that the screw nearest the
firewall was going to be a real pain and thought I would notch the voltage
regulator so I didn't have to take the screw all the way out next time.
Taking the old one out, and guess what the previous owner had thought the same
thing and that old one was notched and much easier to slide out.

Put the voltage regulator on the car, and followed the instructions to ensure
polarization of the generator (field wire off and touch to bat terminal I
believe, which is ford specific) and then fired the car up, and it charges
great and the headlight no longer bring it into discharge, and the car no
longer misses.

So glad it was such a simple fix, but I think this is the first time I have
seen a regulator that 'sort of' worked, I've always had them fail completely
when they fail.

Thanks,
Steve


> > Subject: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I thought I would mention this one to the list, make sure I am going
> > in the right direction.  If I start my tiger and run the RPM's up, My
> > amp meter shows about a 5 Amp charge (until the battery is charged
> > back up).  If I turn my headlights on (with the RPM's up) it shows
> > about a 3 Amp discharge.
> > The other interesting side effect is while driving around with the
> > headlights on, the car cuts out dramatically but momentarily... like
> > the Pertronix ign module is browning out or something?
> >
> > Anyway, since it charges at all, I assume that means that the
> > generator works, and that I should go look at the Voltage regulator
> > first, and if that checks out, then move on to check the generator.  I
> > think I still have a used spare generator on the shelf.  Will the
> > local parts houses even know how to test those correctly anymore if I
> > bring one down to them.
> >
> > Its been alot of years since I have had to work on a generator
> > problem, so thought I would try to do the research on them.  I did run
> > across the comment about polarity/charge on the charging system,
> > especially one that has sat
> > around for a while.   I had forgotten or never knew that, but since I am
> > getting charge from my current system, I am more concerned with that
> > on any generator I might have sitting on the shelf.
> >
> > Just thought it was odd that a discharge condition would cause the
> > Pertronix module to brown out occasionally.  Wanted to make sure that
> > I shouldn't be looking at lighting system draw to ensure that don't
> > have something weird that is actually causing a massive draw and just
> > maxing out the Generator/regulator.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006@suddenlink.net
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Tiger Man'" <tigerman67@hotmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 16:20:08 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

	I use to have the VR points foul and the voltage would drop to
battery.  I would stop, clear the points in the VR and be on my way until
the voltage dropped again.  I installed a volt meter so I knew immediately
when the VR points fouled.  Converting to an alternator system cleared that
all up for me.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tiger Man
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 4:04 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger charging normally until you turn headlights on


Just thought I would post a followup in case anyone ever has a similar
problem
and goes searching through the emails.    And also to thank people on the
board for the help.

 I checked the ammeter, and it zero and calibration seemed very good
(ignition off I think headlights showed about 10-12 amp discharge).

As several people mentioned to me on the board, the petronix is particular
about its voltage.  Even though there are docs that say the 12V petronix
will work down to 8V, the tech at pertonix mentioned that the module is very
sensitive to low voltage, although he didn't comment on what 'low voltage'
meant  But just a partial discharge due to poor performing charging system
and the headlights seems a bit oversensitive.  I guess the module still
worked, but having it cut out abruptly at night for a second is enough to
make your heart stop for a second as well.  I believe I still have a set of
regular points hanging around in the car in case it ever dies on me
completely.

I found a new voltage regulator locally in stock in one (and only one) local
auto zone.  Most of the rest of the stores did not perform the parts lookup
correctly online or even in the store there were alot of suggestions that
weren't even close (used a 64 v8 falcon as my target vehicle).  While
looking at it and where it needed to go, I was thinking that the screw
nearest the firewall was going to be a real pain and thought I would notch
the voltage regulator so I didn't have to take the screw all the way out
next time. Taking the old one out, and guess what the previous owner had
thought the same thing and that old one was notched and much easier to slide
out.

Put the voltage regulator on the car, and followed the instructions to
ensure polarization of the generator (field wire off and touch to bat
terminal I believe, which is ford specific) and then fired the car up, and
it charges great and the headlight no longer bring it into discharge, and
the car no longer misses.

So glad it was such a simple fix, but I think this is the first time I have
seen a regulator that 'sort of' worked, I've always had them fail completely
when they fail.

Thanks,
Steve
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 13:22:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I am using diesel fuel in the cylinders to see if I can break the pistons loose. While I am waiting for this, I am removing (photographing and labeling) components in preparation for a professional rebuild. The shop says that whatever I can do will reduce their labor, thus saving me money. I hate to spend the money, but I want things done once, and done right. My son-in-law wants to pull the engine up and out. While they do the rebuild, I will drain the transmission and clean it up. The rear end seems OK, but I will check it out as well. I also need to make sure the brakes will work safely. (If it won't go, there you are, but if it won't stop, then where are you?)

Carl
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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 13:27:46 -0700
From: David Sosna <sosnaenergyconsulting@cox.net>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: tigers@autox.team.net
References: <qkNZ1l00F0koGQ601kNagm>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Up a creek.
Or wrapped around a tree.
:-)


Best Regards
David Sosna


On 06/20/2013 01:22 PM, Carl Halgren wrote:
>   I also need to make sure the brakes will work safely. (If it won't go, there you are, but if it won't stop, then where are you?)
>
> Carl
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 13:29:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: james ellis <hunber@bellsouth.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Were it me I would not even think of driving it without a complete brake rebuild... brake parts are cheap compared to body work.

--- On Thu, 6/20/13, Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, June 20, 2013, 4:22 PM


I am using diesel fuel in the cylinders to see if I can break the pistons loose. While I am waiting for this, I am removing (photographing and labeling) components in preparation for a professional rebuild. The shop says that whatever I can do will reduce their labor, thus saving me money. I hate to spend the money, but I want things done once, and done right. My son-in-law wants to pull the engine up and out. While they do the rebuild, I will drain the transmission and clean it up. The rear end seems OK, but I will check it out as well. I also need to make sure the brakes will work safely. (If it won't go, there you are, but if it won't stop, then where are you?)

Carl
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 14:50:56 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Carl Halgren'" <cghalgren@yahoo.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 16:48:44 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5t8+P/ZciQyk+LTrO14WIku/QKnQAAvYsg
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-06-20_08:2013-06-20,2013-06-20,1970-01-01
	signatures=0
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	classifier=spam adjust=0 reason=mlx scancount=1
	engine=7.0.1-1305240000 definitions=main-1306200191
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl
	Although the Shop Manual shows pulling the engine out the top, it
can be easier to drop it out the bottom.  I nearly did this by myself but a
friend stop over just as I had dropped the engine onto a very short rolling
platform.  We then tilted the body up, rolled it back and over the engine.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Carl Halgren
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 4:22 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger MKII Coming out of Storage


I am using diesel fuel in the cylinders to see if I can break the pistons
loose. While I am waiting for this, I am removing (photographing and
labeling) components in preparation for a professional rebuild. The shop
says that whatever I can do will reduce their labor, thus saving me money. I
hate to spend the money, but I want things done once, and done right. My
son-in-law wants to pull the engine up and out. While they do the rebuild, I
will drain the transmission and clean it up. The rear end seems OK, but I
will check it out as well. I also need to make sure the brakes will work
safely. (If it won't go, there you are, but if it won't stop, then where are
you?)

Carl
_______________________________________________

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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3345 / Virus Database: 3199/6426 - Release Date: 06/20/13
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From: Rollright@aol.com
Full-name: Rollright
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 16:54:44 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1371761685;
	bh=VJTFsh6qjSPDqr6yOuLALXPxqmR0Ia4o5AwzpHU0+fQ=;
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Subject: [Tigers] Mk 11 Sleeping Rip Van Winkle car
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,
 
My notes:
 
1)  re-line the rear brake shoes. Modern shoes don't fit really well  (I 
threw my old ones out. Duh...)
 
2) plan on sending your brake Servo out to be rebuilt. I had mine done  
after trying several  times.               
    I still screwed it up. Pro did it right. Guy in NH  or Bill Munroe in CA
 
3) check your cam drive gear to make sure yours has iron/steel  
construction. Older ones had nylon teeth 
    and it took out my engine. CHECK YOURS !
 
4)  Think about what new tires you want. 13's are original, but there  are 
wider choices with 14's and 15's
      You'll get lots of opinions here.
 
5)  Plan on a better fan and for the $ 100 it takes, get the new alum.  
pulley to spin it faster.
 
6)  Clean out your gas tanks, fuel system and change the  points on your 
fuel pump. Replace fuel filters. Do it
     right so you don't have flaking paint for  eons in the fuel system.
 
7) Go through all your grounds. Think about a new battery. You've got some  
time but think out direction.
 
Hope this helps. More later
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
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	-0700 (PDT)
From: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 19:53:41 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5tbj6En+hMQSA2RciOTgTYohnd4QAmGQxwAAKfcVA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Tigers] FW: OEM vs Wilwood brake performance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

FYI

 

From: Wilwood Customer Reply [mailto:customerreply@wilwood.com] 
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 6:37 PM
To: 'Robert D. Hogan'
Subject: RE: OEM vs Wilwood brake performance

 

Thank you for the inquiry with Wilwood Disc Brakes. Wilwood did not directly
test the stopping distance on the Sunbeam Tiger, we do not have that data.

 

Regards,
Wilwood Disc Brakes

 

From: Robert D. Hogan [mailto:robertdhogan@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 9:26 PM
To: customerreply@wilwood.com
Subject: OEM vs Wilwood brake performance

 

Does Wilwood have any comparable stopping distance information of a Sunbeam
Tiger OEM stock disc/drum brake system performance and the Wilwood brake kit
performance? 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 20:40:19 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] FW: OEM vs Wilwood brake performance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm sure someone mentioned this in this discussion but the point of 'big
brakes' is not to stop quicker but to stop more times without brake fade
due to heat.   The vast majority of road drivers would never experience
this as there are not many roads around that can accommodate such
aggressive driving outside of competition.

Since you can easily lock the front wheels with stock brakes (even with
245 toyo r888s), bigger brakes won't help you stop quicker.

The biggest factor in the stopping that you can control is the size and
compound of the tires.

On Thursday, June 20, 2013, Robert D. Hogan wrote:

> FYI
>
>
>
> From: Wilwood Customer Reply [mailto:customerreply@wilwood.com<javascript:;>
> ]
> Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 6:37 PM
> To: 'Robert D. Hogan'
> Subject: RE: OEM vs Wilwood brake performance
>
>
>
> Thank you for the inquiry with Wilwood Disc Brakes. Wilwood did not
> directly
> test the stopping distance on the Sunbeam Tiger, we do not have that data.
>
>
>
> Regards,
> Wilwood Disc Brakes
>
>
>
> From: Robert D. Hogan [mailto:robertdhogan@gmail.com <javascript:;>]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 9:26 PM
> To: customerreply@wilwood.com <javascript:;>
> Subject: OEM vs Wilwood brake performance
>
>
>
> Does Wilwood have any comparable stopping distance information of a Sunbeam
> Tiger OEM stock disc/drum brake system performance and the Wilwood brake
> kit
> performance?
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 05:08:16 2013
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From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
To: <CoolVT@aol.com>, <wseay@embarqmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <qk3Y1l03c0koGQ601k3ahT>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 06:05:30 -0500
Thread-Index: AQIclOBTS1C1zbFE72V3HjEfy1qtwpijtBIg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood release
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark:

If it helps, my Mk1A #1600 has a hood release rod instead of a cable.  I'm
not the original owner, however, so I can't say that it came that way.

Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of CoolVT@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 3:03 PM
To: wseay@embarqmail.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood release

Thanks for the replies.  The theory that 1A's never came with  a rod seems
to be incorrect.  The parts book says the change occurred after  #1826 and
owners with cars are high as 1570 are saying theirs came with a  rod.  I was
pretty sure that my #1369 had an original rod.  Thanks for  those that
responded. Now I can get a good night's sleep :-)) Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 6/20/2013 2:55:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
wseay@embarqmail.com writes:

Mark,
My 1A (1570) came with a rod.

Will  Seay_____________
wseay@embarqmail.com
"I think not therefore I am not"  (anon)

-----Original Message-----
From:  tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
 On
Behalf Of CoolVT@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 10:43  PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Hood release

Okay,  a question/survey.............some cars came with a cable to release
the hood and others with a rod.  I have heard that the MK1's  came  with a
rod and everything after came with a cable.
When I got  my MK1A over 20 yrs. ago it came with a rod.  It's  hard to
believe
that the cable had been switched for a rod because just about   nothing on 
the
car had been changed.  It was as original as you  could  find.  On Ebay 
there is a rod for sale that is claimed to  come from a  MK1A.....   Item  
#251292299850   .
So, the question is, did anyone else have an original MK 1A    or MK11 that 
came with a rod rather than a cable?
Mark L
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger@cox.net
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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 09:05:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] FW: OEM vs Wilwood brake performance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I would not gauge ability to lock the brake as an indicator for good brakes at
all. I have done the Wilwood conversion on my 65' Mustang and prior to it,
it could lock the stock 'Drum' front brakes instantly. I also had a 66 K-Code
Mustang with Disc brakes with similar action. After the swap on the drum brake
car with 13" rotors and larger calipers, it felt like I could stop in half the
distance and do it in a more controlled manner (yes, tires were different). I
will comment also on the ability to modulate the larger brakes and it also
helps 
the stopping distance and control vs. just locking the brakes up. I
can't 
remember if the Tiger caliper is floating or not, but fix mount
calipers also 
provide better and less mushy feedback to the pedal, someone
also mentioned 
this, and it's my findings too. I also do not believe that a
locked up tire has 
the maximum traction, and I think this is where better
brake control comes into 
play to shorten the stopping distance. Tires are
very important to the equation, 
but it's a system of components and it's all
important from the rubber to the 
brakes and suspension. 


One thing to watch
out for on some of the 'Brake Upgrades' is the replacement of 
a good sized
caliper and brake sweep area with one that is much less. Wilwood 
has a bunch
of kits for larger cars that replace, for example, a single piston 
GM caliper
with huge pad surface area with one that is tiny (Like many kits that 
use the
Dynalite caliper). This is typically not a good 'upgrade'. For cars like 
the
tiger with it's tiny wheels and solid disk rotor the smaller calipers (like
Dynalites) are likely fine (bigger tire/rim and bigger VENTED rotor is
better). 


Again if you use your Tiger to just put around town, not much
reason to mess 
with it, if you are a 'spirited driver' you can do much better
with the brakes. 
My Tiger has the stock breaks and they are not in great
shape due to age but 
they work fine for a trip to the store. Would not want
to ever get them on the 
track in the state they are in.

Some early morning
ramblings 

Sandy




________________________________
From: Owain Lloyd
<owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: Robert D. Hogan <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
Cc:
"tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, June 20, 2013
5:40:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] FW: OEM vs Wilwood brake performance

I'm
sure someone mentioned this in this discussion but the point of 'big
brakes'
is not to stop quicker but to stop more times without brake fade
due to heat. 
The vast majority of road drivers would never experience
this as there are not
many roads around that can accommodate such
aggressive driving outside of
competition.

Since you can easily lock the front wheels with stock brakes
(even with
245 toyo r888s), bigger brakes won't help you stop quicker.

The
biggest factor in the stopping that you can control is the size and
compound
of the tires.

On Thursday, June 20, 2013, Robert D. Hogan wrote:

> FYI
>
>
>
> From: Wilwood Customer Reply [mailto:customerreply@wilwood.com<javascript:;>
> ]
> Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 6:37 PM
> To: 'Robert D. Hogan'
> Subject:
RE: OEM vs Wilwood brake performance
>
>
>
> Thank you for the inquiry with
Wilwood Disc Brakes. Wilwood did not
> directly
> test the stopping distance
on the Sunbeam Tiger, we do not have that data.
>
>
>
> Regards,
> Wilwood
Disc Brakes
>
>
>
> From: Robert D. Hogan [mailto:robertdhogan@gmail.com
<javascript:;>]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 9:26 PM
> To:
customerreply@wilwood.com <javascript:;>
> Subject: OEM vs Wilwood brake
performance
>
>
>
> Does Wilwood have any comparable stopping distance
information of a Sunbeam
> Tiger OEM stock disc/drum brake system performance
and the Wilwood brake
> kit
> performance?
>
_______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
<javascript:;>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 10:49:08 2013
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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 09:45:57 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120907
	Thunderbird/15.0.1
To: tigers@autox.team.net
References: <002f01ce6e11$65035660$2f0a0320$@com>
	<CANE47iSz2kGrya2jpoUGBfZ9+dNqyhcC4_G7BQNrZTPTTd6=XA@mail.gmail.com>
	<1371830734.42828.YahooMailRC@web184402.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] FW: OEM vs Wilwood brake performance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

My engineering sources says that maximum braking occurs when there is a 
20% slippage rate. Ie, if the tires are spinning at 100 mph then best 
braking occurs at 80 mph apparent speed. All the way to near zero 
speed... Ditto for acceleration. Best grip on the surface comes at that 
amount of slippage.  There is another factor involved as well, but we'll 
save that for a later day...

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed

On 6/21/2013 9:05 AM, Sandy Ganz wrote:
> I would not gauge ability to lock the brake as an indicator for good brakes at
> all. I have done the Wilwood conversion on my 65' Mustang and prior to it,
> it could lock the stock 'Drum' front brakes instantly. I also had a 66 K-Code
> Mustang with Disc brakes with similar action. After the swap on the drum brake
> car with 13" rotors and larger calipers, it felt like I could stop in half the
> distance and do it in a more controlled manner (yes, tires were different). I
> will comment also on the ability to modulate the larger brakes and it also
> helps
> the stopping distance and control vs. just locking the brakes up. I
> can't
> remember if the Tiger caliper is floating or not, but fix mount
> calipers also
> provide better and less mushy feedback to the pedal, someone
> also mentioned
> this, and it's my findings too. I also do not believe that a
> locked up tire has
> the maximum traction, and I think this is where better
> brake control comes into
> play to shorten the stopping distance. Tires are
> very important to the equation,
> but it's a system of components and it's all
> important from the rubber to the
> brakes and suspension.
>
>
> One thing to watch
> out for on some of the 'Brake Upgrades' is the replacement of
> a good sized
> caliper and brake sweep area with one that is much less. Wilwood
> has a bunch
> of kits for larger cars that replace, for example, a single piston
> GM caliper
> with huge pad surface area with one that is tiny (Like many kits that
> use the
> Dynalite caliper). This is typically not a good 'upgrade'. For cars like
> the
> tiger with it's tiny wheels and solid disk rotor the smaller calipers (like
> Dynalites) are likely fine (bigger tire/rim and bigger VENTED rotor is
> better).
>
>
> Again if you use your Tiger to just put around town, not much
> reason to mess
> with it, if you are a 'spirited driver' you can do much better
> with the brakes.
> My Tiger has the stock breaks and they are not in great
> shape due to age but
> they work fine for a trip to the store. Would not want
> to ever get them on the
> track in the state they are in.
>
> Some early morning
> ramblings
>
> Sandy
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Owain Lloyd
> <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
> To: Robert D. Hogan <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
> Cc:
> "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, June 20, 2013
> 5:40:55 PM
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] FW: OEM vs Wilwood brake performance
>
> I'm
> sure someone mentioned this in this discussion but the point of 'big
> brakes'
> is not to stop quicker but to stop more times without brake fade
> due to heat.
> The vast majority of road drivers would never experience
> this as there are not
> many roads around that can accommodate such
> aggressive driving outside of
> competition.
>
> Since you can easily lock the front wheels with stock brakes
> (even with
> 245 toyo r888s), bigger brakes won't help you stop quicker.
>
> The
> biggest factor in the stopping that you can control is the size and
> compound
> of the tires.
>
> On Thursday, June 20, 2013, Robert D. Hogan wrote:
>
>> FYI
>>
>>
>>
>> From: Wilwood Customer Reply [mailto:customerreply@wilwood.com<javascript:;>
>> ]
>> Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 6:37 PM
>> To: 'Robert D. Hogan'
>> Subject:
> RE: OEM vs Wilwood brake performance
>>
>>
>> Thank you for the inquiry with
> Wilwood Disc Brakes. Wilwood did not
>> directly
>> test the stopping distance
> on the Sunbeam Tiger, we do not have that data.
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>> Wilwood
> Disc Brakes
>>
>>
>> From: Robert D. Hogan [mailto:robertdhogan@gmail.com
> <javascript:;>]
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 9:26 PM
>> To:
> customerreply@wilwood.com <javascript:;>
>> Subject: OEM vs Wilwood brake
> performance
>>
>>
>> Does Wilwood have any comparable stopping distance
> information of a Sunbeam
>> Tiger OEM stock disc/drum brake system performance
> and the Wilwood brake
>> kit
>> performance?
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 12:24:30 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
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References: <1C04AA8E52B0442D9F898C0A7C636E48@ronpc1>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bizarre Running Issue
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If for some reason the choke is holding up (or laying "softly") on the 
second to last step..., and you unknowingly set your idle there, - then a 
long drive may eventually generate just enough (additional) heat to move the 
choke off the steps and drop the idle to the point of stall.
Tom 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 16:01:40 2013
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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 21:59:43 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Tigers] Tiger tires
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So now that we know all about brake theory and upgrades...

What about the current state of TIRES?

I was shocked to find that 13 inch tires are all but done for.  All you can now get are
cheap "economy car" tires or one single type of street legal race tire that costs
$600 per set.  Nothing in between.  And I was finally going to actually drive my Tiger
some again...  and my 1993 tires are really bad...  sooo...

Mike Wood, did you solve the 15 inch wheel search?

Any ideas?
Gary
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 18:20:09 2013
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From: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
To: "Tigers List" <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <1182593384.474035.1371851983503.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 20:18:00 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
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Actually, I think the discussion on brakes revealed that while there is no
quantitative date on brake upgrades the 11.75" diameter slotted disks from
Wilwood are subjectively worth the cost.  

I also would be interested to know what tire combinations in 15" or 16"
wheel sizes, preferably with tires that nearly match the original wheel &
tire circumference, would be useful on street, track or autocross course.
Cost is another issue entirely.

  

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Gary Winblad
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 6:00 PM
To: Tiger List
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger tires

So now that we know all about brake theory and upgrades...

What about the current state of TIRES?

I was shocked to find that 13 inch tires are all but done for.  All you can
now get are cheap "economy car" tires or one single type of street legal
race tire that costs
$600 per set.  Nothing in between.  And I was finally going to actually
drive my Tiger some again...  and my 1993 tires are really bad...  sooo...

Mike Wood, did you solve the 15 inch wheel search?

Any ideas?
Gary
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 18:29:00 2013
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
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http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
 
 
In a message dated 6/21/2013 5:18:25 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
robertdhogan@gmail.com writes:

Actually, I think the discussion on brakes revealed that while  there is no
quantitative date on brake upgrades the 11.75" diameter slotted  disks from
Wilwood are subjectively worth the cost.  

I also  would be interested to know what tire combinations in 15" or 16"
wheel  sizes, preferably with tires that nearly match the original wheel  &
tire circumference, would be useful on street, track or autocross  course.
Cost is another issue entirely.



-----Original  Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Gary Winblad
Sent:  Friday, June 21, 2013 6:00 PM
To: Tiger List
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger  tires

So now that we know all about brake theory and  upgrades...

What about the current state of TIRES?

I was shocked  to find that 13 inch tires are all but done for.  All you can
now get  are cheap "economy car" tires or one single type of street legal
race tire  that costs
$600 per set.  Nothing in between.  And I was finally  going to actually
drive my Tiger some again...  and my 1993 tires are  really bad...  sooo...

Mike Wood, did you solve the 15 inch wheel  search?

Any  ideas?
Gary
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 18:29:25 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <1182593384.474035.1371851983503.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 17:27:23 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes! I was looking at the Tire Rack site about a month ago for my son's 
Civic (16" for him) and took a glance at the 13" tire selection - or lack 
of.  The reasonably price Sumitumo HTR-200's were GONE!!! Not only do the 
Cosmic wheels on my Tiger take 13," but the Rallye wheels on my Turbo Pinto, 
and the American (Manufacture), period correct wheels, on my Datsun 510 
also.  Too bad many drive around on forklift like tires mounted on wagon 
wheels these days  (xxx-35-20").

Tom



> So now that we know all about brake theory and upgrades...
>
> What about the current state of TIRES?
>
> I was shocked to find that 13 inch tires are all but done for.  All you 
> can now get are
> cheap "economy car" tires or one single type of street legal race tire 
> that costs
> $600 per set.  Nothing in between.  And I was finally going to actually 
> drive my Tiger
> some again...  and my 1993 tires are really bad...  sooo...
>
> Mike Wood, did you solve the 15 inch wheel search?
>
> Any ideas?
> Gary
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From: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
To: "Tigers List" <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <1182593384.474035.1371851983503.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAABMPBN17/vFBufup1z2IOmpigQAAEAAAAJes2k0eAwtBso4YPeybTdMBAAAAAA==@gmail.com>
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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 21:42:36 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5u6ASpS3C4soRpTAG/qmB9+wdpKAAARN0g
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Summit Racing even has a Coker/Michelin 235/45VR13 that are as wide as the
(rear) BFG TA Radials tires of old but the list price is over $330 each.

-----Original Message-----
From: Tony McNulty [mailto:bamcnulty@optonline.net] 
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 9:30 PM
To: Robert D. Hogan
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires

Looks like Goodyear R5's and Avons  for 13" x 6" wheels -- little "fat" for
stock rims, but work on my 6" BWA's.  The R5 tire may be a bit tall for the
front.  Goodyear also made (or makes) a Y6 that's pretty "low" -- makes it
look like the Tiger's going down the street on its elbows -- but really a
"mean" look.  Not worth two hoots in the wet over 60 mph -- the car will
hydroplane, but really grabby on dry pavement.  They definitely lower the
car a bit and will "just" clear the front fender lip in front.

Tony





----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
To: "Tigers List" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires


> Actually, I think the discussion on brakes revealed that while there is no
> quantitative date on brake upgrades the 11.75" diameter slotted disks from
> Wilwood are subjectively worth the cost.
>
> I also would be interested to know what tire combinations in 15" or 16"
> wheel sizes, preferably with tires that nearly match the original wheel &
> tire circumference, would be useful on street, track or autocross course.
> Cost is another issue entirely.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Gary Winblad
> Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 6:00 PM
> To: Tiger List
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger tires
>
> So now that we know all about brake theory and upgrades...
>
> What about the current state of TIRES?
>
> I was shocked to find that 13 inch tires are all but done for.  All you 
> can
> now get are cheap "economy car" tires or one single type of street legal
> race tire that costs
> $600 per set.  Nothing in between.  And I was finally going to actually
> drive my Tiger some again...  and my 1993 tires are really bad...  sooo...
>
> Mike Wood, did you solve the 15 inch wheel search?
>
> Any ideas?
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/robertdhogan@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 10:09:22 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Tigers] Flying Tiger-              Non Tiger content
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A little bigger fan attached to the hood, a second  fan  attached to the 
trunk  lid........................................hmmm.
 
 http://wimp.com/flyingbike/
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 08:30:58 2013
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Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 07:25:03 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Flying Tiger-              Non Tiger content
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Well, now, that is just plain cool!

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed

On 6/22/2013 7:09 AM, CoolVT@aol.com wrote:
> A little bigger fan attached to the hood, a second  fan  attached to the
> trunk  lid........................................hmmm.
>   
>   http://wimp.com/flyingbike/
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 13:55:20 2013
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Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 15:53:12 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com>
Cc: Tigers List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The toyos on tirerack are a great tire.  They can even shave them for you.
 There does seem to be very limited choice in the US.  If you check out the
UK sites mytyres.co.uk and camskill.co.uk you will find a huge selection of
13 inch from cheap to top dollar (or top pound anyway).

Shipping would not be that expensive when you consider you save the 20%
sales tax.  They also make quite comfortable checked in baggage if you are
flying...




On Friday, June 21, 2013, Robert D. Hogan wrote:

> Summit Racing even has a Coker/Michelin 235/45VR13 that are as wide as the
> (rear) BFG TA Radials tires of old but the list price is over $330 each.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony McNulty [mailto:bamcnulty@optonline.net <javascript:;>]
> Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 9:30 PM
> To: Robert D. Hogan
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
>
> Looks like Goodyear R5's and Avons  for 13" x 6" wheels -- little "fat" for
> stock rims, but work on my 6" BWA's.  The R5 tire may be a bit tall for the
> front.  Goodyear also made (or makes) a Y6 that's pretty "low" -- makes it
> look like the Tiger's going down the street on its elbows -- but really a
> "mean" look.  Not worth two hoots in the wet over 60 mph -- the car will
> hydroplane, but really grabby on dry pavement.  They definitely lower the
> car a bit and will "just" clear the front fender lip in front.
>
> Tony
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com <javascript:;>>
> To: "Tigers List" <tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>>
> Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 8:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
>
>
> > Actually, I think the discussion on brakes revealed that while there is
> no
> > quantitative date on brake upgrades the 11.75" diameter slotted disks
> from
> > Wilwood are subjectively worth the cost.
> >
> > I also would be interested to know what tire combinations in 15" or 16"
> > wheel sizes, preferably with tires that nearly match the original wheel &
> > tire circumference, would be useful on street, track or autocross course.
> > Cost is another issue entirely.
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net <javascript:;> [mailto:
> tigers-bounces@autox.team.net <javascript:;>]
> > On Behalf Of Gary Winblad
> > Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 6:00 PM
> > To: Tiger List
> > Subject: [Tigers] Tiger tires
> >
> > So now that we know all about brake theory and upgrades...
> >
> > What about the current state of TIRES?
> >
> > I was shocked to find that 13 inch tires are all but done for.  All you
> > can
> > now get are cheap "economy car" tires or one single type of street legal
> > race tire that costs
> > $600 per set.  Nothing in between.  And I was finally going to actually
> > drive my Tiger some again...  and my 1993 tires are really bad...
>  sooo...
> >
> > Mike Wood, did you solve the 15 inch wheel search?
> >
> > Any ideas?
> > Gary
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/robertdhogan@gmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bamcnulty@optonline.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
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> Unsubscribe:
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 14:26:02 2013
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 16:19:40 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
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http://www.carid.com/tires/13-inch/
 
 
In a message dated 6/22/2013 12:53:35 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
owain.lloyd@gmail.com writes:

The  toyos on tirerack are a great tire.  They can even shave them for  you.
There does seem to be very limited choice in the US.  If you  check out the
UK sites mytyres.co.uk and camskill.co.uk you will find a  huge selection of
13 inch from cheap to top dollar (or top pound  anyway).

Shipping would not be that expensive when you consider you  save the 20%
sales tax.  They also make quite comfortable checked in  baggage if you are
flying...




On Friday, June 21, 2013,  Robert D. Hogan wrote:

> Summit Racing even has a Coker/Michelin  235/45VR13 that are as wide as 
the
> (rear) BFG TA Radials tires of old  but the list price is over $330 each.
>
> -----Original  Message-----
> From: Tony McNulty [mailto:bamcnulty@optonline.net  <javascript:;>]
> Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 9:30 PM
> To:  Robert D. Hogan
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
>
>  Looks like Goodyear R5's and Avons  for 13" x 6" wheels -- little "fat"  
for
> stock rims, but work on my 6" BWA's.  The R5 tire may be a  bit tall for 
the
> front.  Goodyear also made (or makes) a Y6  that's pretty "low" -- makes 
it
> look like the Tiger's going down the  street on its elbows -- but really a
> "mean" look.  Not worth two  hoots in the wet over 60 mph -- the car will
> hydroplane, but really  grabby on dry pavement.  They definitely lower the
> car a bit and  will "just" clear the front fender lip in front.
>
>  Tony
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message  -----
> From: "Robert D. Hogan" <robertdhogan@gmail.com  <javascript:;>>
> To: "Tigers List" <tigers@autox.team.net  <javascript:;>>
> Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 8:18 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
>
>
> > Actually, I  think the discussion on brakes revealed that while there is
> no
>  > quantitative date on brake upgrades the 11.75" diameter slotted  disks
> from
> > Wilwood are subjectively worth the  cost.
> >
> > I also would be interested to know what tire  combinations in 15" or 16"
> > wheel sizes, preferably with tires  that nearly match the original 
wheel &
> > tire circumference,  would be useful on street, track or autocross 
course.
> > Cost is  another issue entirely.
> >
> >
> >
> >  -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  <javascript:;> [mailto:
> tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  <javascript:;>]
> > On Behalf Of Gary Winblad
> >  Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 6:00 PM
> > To: Tiger List
> >  Subject: [Tigers] Tiger tires
> >
> > So now that we know  all about brake theory and upgrades...
> >
> > What about  the current state of TIRES?
> >
> > I was shocked to find  that 13 inch tires are all but done for.  All you
> >  can
> > now get are cheap "economy car" tires or one single type of  street 
legal
> > race tire that costs
> > $600 per  set.  Nothing in between.  And I was finally going to  
actually
> > drive my Tiger some again...  and my 1993 tires are  really bad...
>  sooo...
> >
> > Mike Wood, did  you solve the 15 inch wheel search?
> >
> > Any  ideas?
> > Gary
> >  _______________________________________________
> >
> >  tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> >
> > Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> >  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/robertdhogan@gmail.com
>  > _______________________________________________
> >
> >  tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> >
> > Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> >  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bamcnulty@optonline.net
>  _______________________________________________
>
>  tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe:
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 15:41:50 2013
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 17:35:56 -0400 (EDT)
To: AAAGLASSS@aol.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Wow !!! 13 inchers do seem to be available.
 
 
In a message dated 6/22/2013 4:24:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
AAAGLASSS@aol.com writes:

http://www.carid.com/tires/13-inch/
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 15:42:56 2013
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	Sat, 22 Jun 2013 16:41:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Clyde McLaughlin" <clydemclaughlin@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 17:41:19 -0400
Thread-index: Ac5vj+7UvHD+ANc4TZq7CJWSUIaA4Q==
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Subject: [Tigers] tires,  hood
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I'm looking to buy a square corner hood to modify,  anybody have one??  I
have a set of four htr 200 tires for sale, 195/60x13 fit nicely on 6" rims,
almost no miles on  them,  been stored out of sunlight, in climate control
garage, no dry rough, can deliver to St Michaels in October or ship,
$150.00, Clyde McLaughlin
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <116cf7.72cc4d3b.3ef772bc@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 15:53:26 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Well..., it depends on the tire size desired.  While there were a lot of 
different tires when you go to the drop down menu most are the 155 thru 
175-70-13".  Excluding the "track" tires only the Nexen offered a tire with 
a 60 aspect ratio and the largest 185 width.

Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <CoolVT@aol.com>
To: <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires


> Wow !!! 13 inchers do seem to be available.
>
>
> In a message dated 6/22/2013 4:24:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> AAAGLASSS@aol.com writes:
>
> http://www.carid.com/tires/13-inch/
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 17:45:33 2013
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 19:43:42 -0400 (EDT)
To: atwittsend@verizon.net, tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1371944622;
	bh=Td44Bsbe92UeF8ORZnAX78YwjFZJoGWMbZUXamgLWDU=;
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom,
You will probably find slim pickings if you look for 13" wheels to  handle 
wider tires too.  Maybe the thinking is that people who run 13"  wheels are 
looking for something close to the original look.  When 13"  wheel were 
popular I don't remember a whole lot of wide tires.  For the  Tiger and others 
it was the tall and narrow look that was used. Hey, who wanted  handling? 
People wanted speed.
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 6/22/2013 6:57:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
atwittsend@verizon.net writes:

Well...,  it depends on the tire size desired.  While there were a lot of  
different tires when you go to the drop down menu most are the 155 thru  
175-70-13".  Excluding the "track" tires only the Nexen offered a  tire 
with 
a 60 aspect ratio and the largest 185  width.

Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From:  <CoolVT@aol.com>
To: <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>;  <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 2:35  PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires


> Wow !!! 13 inchers do  seem to be available.
>
>
> In a message dated 6/22/2013  4:24:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> AAAGLASSS@aol.com  writes:
>
>  http://www.carid.com/tires/13-inch/
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 22:45:05 2013
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From: "Curt Bowland" <cbowland@msn.com>
To: "tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 23:43:05 -0500
Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 23:43:05 -0500
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Subject: [Tigers] 13" tires
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Hi,

For those looking for 13" tires I would suggest
https://www.onlinetires.com<https://www.onlinetires.com/> . They have an
extensive listing of 13" tires. I purchased the Federal brand Formosa
205x60x13, H speed rated, for $52.51@! Been quite happy with them. Agreed 13"
are a lot harder to find and only going to get worse.

Cheers,

Curt Bowland
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 00:07:12 2013
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To: "Curt Bowland" <cbowland@msn.com>,tigers-bounces@autox.team.net,"tigers"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
From: jay.laifman@gmail.com
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 06:03:35 +0000
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 13" tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Although dad got Michelins and they seems good.  They are certainly old. I have not driven on the freeway, and won't until I change them. I plan on getting Kumhos, which are available in correct sizes. Keep in mind that the worst tires today are better than the best tires when the cars were new. 

------Original Message------
From: Curt Bowland
To: tigers
Subject: [Tigers] 13" tires
Sent: Jun 23, 2013 6:43 AM

Hi,

For those looking for 13" tires I would suggest
https://www.onlinetires.com<https://www.onlinetires.com/> . They have an
extensive listing of 13" tires. I purchased the Federal brand Formosa
205x60x13, H speed rated, for $52.51@! Been quite happy with them. Agreed 13"
are a lot harder to find and only going to get worse.

Cheers,

Curt Bowland
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 09:58:24 2013
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 15:56:15 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: Curt Bowland <cbowland@msn.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1372002975;
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] 13" tires
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Thanks Curt,
Of all the suggestions, that sounds like the best choice for me right now.
I just want some street tires for the LAT-70s and those look pretty good and I
like the price.

BTW Curt,
 What kind of wheels/tires do you run on your number 92 Tiger?  I really like the
look, I saved pictures posted quite awhile back..  Details?

Gary

    ----- Original Message -----  From: Curt Bowland <cbowland@msn.com>  To: tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>  Sent: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 04:43:05 -0000 (UTC)  Subject: [Tigers] 13" tires    Hi,    For those looking for 13" tires I would suggest  https://www.onlinetires.com . They have an  extensive listing of 13" tires. I purchased the Federal brand Formosa  205x60x13, H speed rated, for $52.51@! Been quite happy with them. Agreed 13"  are a lot harder to find and only going to get worse.    Cheers,    Curt Bowland  _______________________________________________    tigers@autox.team.net    Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums  Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net        
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 15:20:59 2013
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 17:18:52 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1372022332;
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Subject: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other-Makes-1965-Sunbeam-Tiger-Mk1-2-door-196
5-Sunbeam-Tiger-Mk1-/321149226483?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4ac5fc4df3
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "AAAGLASSS@aol.com" <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
Thread-Index: AQHOcFdQvQNI4WFcBUaaHLu/c4ZKF5lDztPg
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 21:26:58 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

There aren't that many Tigers out there with the hood louvered like that -
someone has to know whose it is and whether it's really for sale.

Would be nice if they published the VIN. It's a crossover car, so it has to be
a late Mk1... The location is a little too nebulous for my liking, and they
should fix the title so it's not a '1961 Other Makes - 1965 Sunbeam Tiger'.

Theo



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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 17:31:45 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I asked where it is located. Wonder if I'll get an answer.
 
 
In a message dated 6/23/2013 2:27:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
Theo.Smit@dynastream.com writes:

There  aren't that many Tigers out there with the hood louvered like that - 
someone  has to know whose it is and whether it's really for sale.

Would be nice  if they published the VIN. It's a crossover car, so it has 
to be a late Mk1...  The location is a little too nebulous for my liking, and 
they should fix the  title so it's not a '1961 Other Makes - 1965 Sunbeam  
Tiger'.

Theo



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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 15:48:36 2013
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 14:46:40 -0700
To: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>, "AAAGLASSS@aol.com"
	<AAAGLASSS@aol.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
From: "Norman C. Miller" <rootes1@earthlink.net>
	garmin.com>
References: <10d21b.51f1ee0d.3ef8c03c@aol.com>
	<7495733F0DF7644CBABA4EA216EF4E151A205C2A@OLAWPA-EXMB06.ad.garmin.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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It's a scam.  This is the third time for a bogus listing on eBay.

Norm
P.S. B9473614 LRXFE
For Sale by Valenti Classics

At 02:26 PM 6/23/2013, Smit, Theo wrote:
>There aren't that many Tigers out there with the hood louvered like that -
>someone has to know whose it is and whether it's really for sale.
>
>Would be nice if they published the VIN. It's a crossover car, so it has to be
>a late Mk1... The location is a little too nebulous for my liking, and they
>should fix the title so it's not a '1961 Other Makes - 1965 Sunbeam Tiger'.
>
>Theo
>
>
>
>________________________________
>
>CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This email and any attachments are for the sole use of
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>
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>
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
Thread-Index: AQHOcFdQvQNI4WFcBUaaHLu/c4ZKF5lDztPggAAG0H6AAAEhUA==
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 21:52:47 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
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This one, then:
http://valenticlassics.com/valenti/vehicle_specific.asp?VehicleID=245

Thanks Norm!

Cheers,
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Norman C. Miller [mailto:rootes1@earthlink.net]
> Sent: June 23, 2013 3:47 PM
> To: Smit, Theo; AAAGLASSS@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
>
> It's a scam.  This is the third time for a bogus listing on eBay.
>
> Norm
> P.S. B9473614 LRXFE
> For Sale by Valenti Classics
>


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References: <4d782.5d0715aa.3ef790ae@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 18:16:05 -0400
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: "CoolVT@aol.com" <CoolVT@aol.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ford escorts ran/run 13 inch as wide as 8 or 9 inch and always did.  With a
cosworth BDA/BDG they need wide tires on tarmac.  It's pretty much the only
historic rally car that can keep pace with modern cars and they can beat
single seaters on hillclimbs.

13 inch gives them phenomenal acceleration with a rear end ratio of over
5:1.

On Saturday, June 22, 2013, wrote:

> Tom,
> You will probably find slim pickings if you look for 13" wheels to  handle
> wider tires too.  Maybe the thinking is that people who run 13"  wheels are
> looking for something close to the original look.  When 13"  wheel were
> popular I don't remember a whole lot of wide tires.  For the  Tiger and
> others
> it was the tall and narrow look that was used. Hey, who wanted  handling?
> People wanted speed.
> Mark L
>
>
> In a message dated 6/22/2013 6:57:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> atwittsend@verizon.net <javascript:;> writes:
>
> Well...,  it depends on the tire size desired.  While there were a lot of
> different tires when you go to the drop down menu most are the 155 thru
> 175-70-13".  Excluding the "track" tires only the Nexen offered a  tire
> with
> a 60 aspect ratio and the largest 185  width.
>
> Tom
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:  <CoolVT@aol.com <javascript:;>>
> To: <AAAGLASSS@aol.com <javascript:;>>;  <tigers@autox.team.net<javascript:;>
> >
> Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 2:35  PM
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
>
>
> > Wow !!! 13 inchers do  seem to be available.
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 6/22/2013  4:24:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> > AAAGLASSS@aol.com <javascript:;>  writes:
> >
> >  http://www.carid.com/tires/13-inch/
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 16:25:32 2013
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 18:23:28 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1372026208;
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunbeam-Alpine-Tiger-Lotus-Cortina-Super-Seven-Panas
port-13x6-wheels-/230729212431?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=i
tem35b888620f&vxp=mtr
 
 
In a message dated 6/23/2013 3:16:24 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
owain.lloyd@gmail.com writes:

Ford  escorts ran/run 13 inch as wide as 8 or 9 inch and always did.  With  
a
cosworth BDA/BDG they need wide tires on tarmac.  It's pretty much  the only
historic rally car that can keep pace with modern cars and they  can beat
single seaters on hillclimbs.

13 inch gives them phenomenal  acceleration with a rear end ratio of over
5:1.

On Saturday, June  22, 2013, wrote:

> Tom,
> You will probably find slim pickings  if you look for 13" wheels to  
handle
> wider tires too.   Maybe the thinking is that people who run 13"  wheels 
are
> looking  for something close to the original look.  When 13"  wheel  were
> popular I don't remember a whole lot of wide tires.  For  the  Tiger and
> others
> it was the tall and narrow look  that was used. Hey, who wanted  handling?
> People wanted  speed.
> Mark L
>
>
> In a message dated 6/22/2013  6:57:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> atwittsend@verizon.net  <javascript:;> writes:
>
> Well...,  it depends on the  tire size desired.  While there were a lot of
> different tires  when you go to the drop down menu most are the 155 thru
>  175-70-13".  Excluding the "track" tires only the Nexen offered a   tire
> with
> a 60 aspect ratio and the largest 185   width.
>
> Tom
>
>
> ----- Original Message  -----
> From:  <CoolVT@aol.com <javascript:;>>
>  To: <AAAGLASSS@aol.com <javascript:;>>;   
<tigers@autox.team.net<javascript:;>
> >
> Sent:  Saturday, June 22, 2013 2:35  PM
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger  tires
>
>
> > Wow !!! 13 inchers do  seem to be  available.
> >
> >
> > In a message dated  6/22/2013  4:24:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> >  AAAGLASSS@aol.com <javascript:;>  writes:
> >
>  >  http://www.carid.com/tires/13-inch/
>  _______________________________________________
>
>  tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> Donate:   http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>  _______________________________________________
>
>  tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "AAAGLASSS@aol.com" <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tiger tires
Thread-Index: AQHOcGBIgJqsqev9L0KvqhvAuW4+N5lD5aUA
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 22:50:31 +0000
References: <10e0e2.39f47a55.3ef8cf60@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
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http://www.midatlanticmotorsport.com/panasport.htm

Just choose with your wallet ;)

Back when the sanctioning bodies would only allow wheels that were up to (1.5
or 2?) inches wider than stock for GT racing, the tire manufacturers responded
with cantilever-sidewall slicks - so you could (or still can) get a 9"
tread-width slick designed to go on a 7" rim. The current crop of ultrawide
'street' radials don't work when their sidewalls are sucked into an
insufficiently wide tire, so you can only mount what you can find a rim for...
thankfully due to modular aluminum wheels as well as the mini-stock crowd
standardizing on the Ford bolt pattern, you can get 13 inch steel or aluminum
race wheels in whatever width you need.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of AAAGLASSS@aol.com
> Sent: June 23, 2013 4:23 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunbeam-Alpine-Tiger-Lotus-Cortina-Super-Seven-
> Panas
> port-13x6-wheels-
> /230729212431?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=i
> tem35b888620f&vxp=mtr
>
>


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 17:31:54 2013
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From: Tom Pappenhagen <pappentl@aol.com>
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Subject: [Tigers] Trim hole size
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I'm trying to install the plastic SS trim clips and it looks like the holes
were partially filled with paint.  Anyone know the proper diameter for the
trim holes?  Also (probably) the other emblem holes etc.

TIA.

...tom
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 19:19:46 2013
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From: steve wick <srwick@hotmail.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 18:17:52 -0700
References: <10d21b.51f1ee0d.3ef8c03c@aol.com>,
	<7495733F0DF7644CBABA4EA216EF4E151A205C2A@OLAWPA-EXMB06.ad.garmin.com>
	FILETIME=[A6655BD0:01CE7078]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

My hood is like that, but it's not my car. Mine isn't near as nice.

Steve (in N. Id.)

> From: Theo.Smit@dynastream.com
> To: AAAGLASSS@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 21:26:58 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
>
> There aren't that many Tigers out there with the hood louvered like that -
> someone has to know whose it is and whether it's really for sale.
>
> Would be nice if they published the VIN. It's a crossover car, so it has to
be
> a late Mk1... The location is a little too nebulous for my liking, and they
> should fix the title so it's not a '1961 Other Makes - 1965 Sunbeam Tiger'.
>
> Theo
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This email and any attachments are for the sole use
of
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> _______________________________________________
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> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 19:55:11 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <10d21b.51f1ee0d.3ef8c03c@aol.com>,
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 18:53:15 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

>From the Ebay listing: "Nestled between the frame rails is the famed 289 cu 
in power house which is mated to a top loader 4-Speed gear box. The correct 
4.3L 260 cu in V8 still accompanies the car."

So, which is it? 289??? 260??? (not that it matters)

Tom 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 19:59:31 2013
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Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 21:56:49 -0400
From: Jeffery Randall <jefferyrandall@gmail.com>
To: steve wick <srwick@hotmail.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

When I see a listing like this ,I lokk at the seller's "other items" and
generally it's not hard to spot a dud, Imediately this one put up the RED
FLAG. A little common sense can save a lot of money and heart ache.For what
it's not worth!
 Regards,
   Jeff


On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 9:17 PM, steve wick <srwick@hotmail.com> wrote:

> My hood is like that, but it's not my car. Mine isn't near as nice.
>
> Steve (in N. Id.)
>
> > From: Theo.Smit@dynastream.com
> > To: AAAGLASSS@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net
> > Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 21:26:58 +0000
> > Subject: Re: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.
> >
> > There aren't that many Tigers out there with the hood louvered like that
> -
> > someone has to know whose it is and whether it's really for sale.
> >
> > Would be nice if they published the VIN. It's a crossover car, so it has
> to
> be
> > a late Mk1... The location is a little too nebulous for my liking, and
> they
> > should fix the title so it's not a '1961 Other Makes - 1965 Sunbeam
> Tiger'.
> >
> > Theo
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> >
> > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This email and any attachments are for the sole
> use
> of
> > the intended recipient(s) and contain information that may be
> confidential
> > and/or legally privileged. If you have received this email in error,
> please
> > notify the sender by reply email and delete the message. Any disclosure,
> > copying, distribution or use of this communication (including
> attachments)
> by
> > someone other than the intended recipient is prohibited. Thank you.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/srwick@hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
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>
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Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 00:30:07 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: Tom Pappenhagen <pappentl@aol.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Trim hole size
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom,if someone doesn't know off the top their head, the trim isn't on my 67/1A, so I can measure it for you. Just let me know.
TtT 
Sent from Huawei Mobile

Tom Pappenhagen <pappentl@aol.com> wrote:

>I'm trying to install the plastic SS trim clips and it looks like the holes
>were partially filled with paint.  Anyone know the proper diameter for the
>trim holes?  Also (probably) the other emblem holes etc.
>
>TIA.
>
>...tom
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d33cc51c8414a7e71
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: Other: aaaglasss sent a message about Other Makes :
 1965 Sunbeam Tiger M...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

This is the response to my asking where it is. That price is tempting isn't 
 it. I also reported this to e-bay and the ad is gone. Am going to respond 
to  this and say I have cash in hand and need to see the car. Will let you 
know what  plays out.
 
 
  
____________________________________
 From: anita.jones76@aol.com
To: aaaglasss@aol.com
Sent: 6/24/2013  5:40:26 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time
Subj: Re: Other: aaaglasss sent a  message about Other Makes : 1965 Sunbeam 
Tiger Mk1 2 door


Hi,

Thanks for  your interest. I have a clear title in my name. Please find a 
link to  additional photos bellow my message. My asking price is $19,000. The 
vehicle  is in great working condition, it's been serviced recently and 
needs  nothing.This Mark I Convertible with removable hardtop has undergone an  
extensive documented restoration. Amazingly it comes with the original  
purchase order receipt. Nestled between the frame rails is the famed 289 cu in  
power house which is mated to a top loader 4-Speed gear box. The correct 
4.3L  260 cu in V8 still accompanies the car Matching interior (just check the 
 photos bellow my message).

I am currently away for a few days, but I  will get back home to Conneaut 
OH, where the vehicle is located, late next  week. I can arrange shipping to 
your location when I get there. For payment I  accept bank wire transfer. If 
we close this deal I will email you a scan of  the title before wiring the 
payment. Let me know if you agree with my terms.  Alternately we can close 
this deal using ebay's vehicle purchase protection.  You can secure your 
purchase today by wiring the money to ebay. Ebay will hold  your payment until 
you receive the vehicle from the shipper or until you  inspect it and agree 
to buy it. Either way, let me know which way is better  for you.


Thanks,
Martin

Additional  photos:

http://imageupper.com/g/?S020001005Y13720763352359261
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 06:58:33 2013
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References: <1192511252.1372022962460.JavaMail.SYSTEM@slc4b01c-8486>
	<8D03EEFDFFB4872-18F0-1B481@webmail-vm019.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 08:56:30 -0400
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: Re: Other: gmcvtx sent a message about Other Makes :
 1965 Sunbeam Tiger Mk1 2 door
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

And here's the SCAM
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Anita Jones" <anita.jones76@aol.com>
Date: Jun 24, 2013 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: Other: gmcvtx sent a message about Other Makes : 1965 Sunbeam
Tiger Mk1 2 door
To: <michael@tandemproductions.com>
Cc:

Hi,

Thanks for your interest. I have a clear title in my name. Please find a
link to additional photos bellow my message. My asking price is $19,000.
The vehicle is in great working condition, it's been serviced recently and
needs nothing.This Mark I Convertible with removable hardtop has undergone
an extensive documented restoration. Amazingly it comes with the original
purchase order receipt. Nestled between the frame rails is the famed 289 cu
in power house which is mated to a top loader 4-Speed gear box. The correct
4.3L 260 cu in V8 still accompanies the car Matching interior (just check
the photos bellow my message).

I am currently away for a few days, but I will get back home to Conneaut
OH, where the vehicle is located, late next week. I can arrange shipping to
your location when I get there. For payment I accept bank wire transfer. If
we close this deal I will email you a scan of the title before wiring the
payment. Let me know if you agree with my terms. Alternately we can close
this deal using ebay's vehicle purchase protection. You can secure your
purchase today by wiring the money to ebay. Ebay will hold your payment
until you receive the vehicle from the shipper or until you inspect it and
agree to buy it. Either way, let me know which way is better for you.


Thanks,
Martin

Additional photos:

http://imageupper.com/g/?S020001005Y13720763352359261
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 07:01:04 2013
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 08:59:02 -0400 (EDT)
To: michael@michaelshortt.com, tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1372078743;
	bh=CoilHDCZ5jaEhixkGLqRlE9XjHAdl+C3sa/3pGjeccM=;
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d33ca51c842961a5a
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fwd: Re: Other: gmcvtx sent a message about Other
 Makes : 1965 S...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Have cash in hand need to see this. Where/When can I see this?
 
 
In a message dated 6/24/2013 5:56:46 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
michaelsavga@gmail.com writes:

And  here's the SCAM
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Anita  Jones" <anita.jones76@aol.com>
Date: Jun 24, 2013 8:45 AM
Subject:  Re: Other: gmcvtx sent a message about Other Makes : 1965 Sunbeam
Tiger Mk1  2 door
To:  <michael@tandemproductions.com>
Cc:

Hi,

Thanks for your  interest. I have a clear title in my name. Please find a
link to additional  photos bellow my message. My asking price is $19,000.
The vehicle is in  great working condition, it's been serviced recently and
needs nothing.This  Mark I Convertible with removable hardtop has undergone
an extensive  documented restoration. Amazingly it comes with the original
purchase order  receipt. Nestled between the frame rails is the famed 289 cu
in power house  which is mated to a top loader 4-Speed gear box. The correct
4.3L 260 cu in  V8 still accompanies the car Matching interior (just check
the photos  bellow my message).

I am currently away for a few days, but I will get  back home to Conneaut
OH, where the vehicle is located, late next week. I  can arrange shipping to
your location when I get there. For payment I  accept bank wire transfer. If
we close this deal I will email you a scan of  the title before wiring the
payment. Let me know if you agree with my  terms. Alternately we can close
this deal using ebay's vehicle purchase  protection. You can secure your
purchase today by wiring the money to ebay.  Ebay will hold your payment
until you receive the vehicle from the shipper  or until you inspect it and
agree to buy it. Either way, let me know which  way is better for you.


Thanks,
Martin

Additional  photos:

http://imageupper.com/g/?S020001005Y13720763352359261
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aaaglasss@aol.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 08:55:02 2013
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References: <mailman.727.1372027946.2541.tigers@autox.team.net>
From: Walter Suman <wsuman@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 07:52:50 -0700
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1372085581;
	bh=zWH6WzbSKtYQ42YbVfmFOz96yZnf34QDE3JJ8Y94Di8=;
	h=From:To:Subject:Message-Id:Date:Mime-Version:Content-Type;
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d338651c85d4b07d3
Subject: [Tigers] Is it a con job?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

He says its in Conneaut, Ohio.

http://imageupper.com/g/?S020001005Y13720763352359261

Walt Suman

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 17:18:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] This looks like a con job.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other-Makes-1965-Sunbeam-Tiger-Mk1-2-door-196
5-Sunbeam-Tiger-Mk1-/321149226483?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4ac5fc4df3
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 09:02:34 2013
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 11:00:18 -0400 (EDT)
To: wsuman@aol.com, tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1372086038;
	bh=jaAYqe6ViCmK5GzKWNiVxsKzF43tRTySkVcjX+h6BvY=;
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d338b51c85f032d6a
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Is it a con job?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Pretty distinctive car.  Someone on the list must know who it  belongs to.  
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 6/24/2013 10:53:33 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wsuman@aol.com writes:

He says  its in Conneaut,  Ohio.

http://imageupper.com/g/?S020001005Y13720763352359261

Walt  Suman

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 17:18:52 -0400  (EDT)
From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject:  [Tigers] This looks like a con job.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other-Makes-1965-Sunbeam-Tiger-Mk1-2-door-196
5-Sunbeam-Tiger-Mk1-/321149226483?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4ac5fc4df3
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 17:00:16 2013
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Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 15:58:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roger Nyberg <nyberg.roger@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] SCAMS
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Norm Miller posted that this car, vin#, is still in inventory at Valenti Classics, Franklin Wisc.
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 21:08:31 2013
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Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 20:06:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Terry Packer <packertl3@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Window Track Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The roll-up windows in our cars are guided by 2 vertical U-channels, one forward and one aft near the exterior door handle. I noticed the rear channels on my car are bare metal. The question is whether that's correct or whether they should contain any sort of felt buffer or liner similar to the front guide channel? 

Thanks
Terry Packer
9470018
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 21:15:43 2013
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Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 20:11:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Terry Packer <packertl3@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Nevermind - Window Track Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Just noticed SS actually sells the rear channel liners DC-50. We never raise or lower the windows so didn't even think about it until poking around inside a door!


Terry



________________________________
 From: Terry Packer <packertl3@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 8:06 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Window Track Question
 

The roll-up windows in our cars are guided by 2 vertical U-channels, one forward and one aft near the exterior door handle. I noticed the rear channels on my car are bare metal. The question is whether that's correct or whether they should contain any sort of felt buffer or liner similar to the front guide channel? 

Thanks
Terry Packer
9470018
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 22:08:17 2013
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To: "Terry Packer" <packertl3@yahoo.com>,"tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
From: jay.laifman@gmail.com
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 04:06:23 +0000
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Nevermind - Window Track Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

For what it is worth, it is "just" a strip of fabric that lays/hangs in there. Once to top deteriorates, it releases and falls down. You may find it laying on the bottom of the door itself. 
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Packer <packertl3@yahoo.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Nevermind - Window Track Question

Just noticed SS actually sells the rear channel liners DC-50. We never raise or lower the windows so didn't even think about it until poking around inside a door!


Terry



________________________________
 From: Terry Packer <packertl3@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 8:06 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Window Track Question
 

The roll-up windows in our cars are guided by 2 vertical U-channels, one forward and one aft near the exterior door handle. I noticed the rear channels on my car are bare metal. The question is whether that's correct or whether they should contain any sort of felt buffer or liner similar to the front guide channel? 

Thanks
Terry Packer
9470018
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/packertl3@yahoo.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 02:58:59 2013
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Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 01:56:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: J Clark <icanhandyman@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] This looks like a con job
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

 Isn't this the Tiger we've seen on the cover of  the Victoria British parts
catalogs?
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Is it a con job?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Conneaut is a city in Ashtabula County, Ohio, United States, along Lake Erie
at the mouth of Conneaut Creek, which is the number one steelhead trout stream
in the country. The population was 12,841 at the 2010      start driving how
hard can it be to find a Tiger in a town that size, or just go fishing.....lol
....pun intended



---- Original Message ----
From: CoolVT <CoolVT@aol.com>
To: wsuman <wsuman@aol.com>; tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 24, 2013 11:00 am
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Is it a con job?


Pretty distinctive car.  Someone on the list must know who it  belongs to.
Mark L


In a message dated 6/24/2013 10:53:33 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
wsuman@aol.com writes:

He says  its in Conneaut,  Ohio.

http://imageupper.com/g/?S020001005Y13720763352359261

Walt  Suman

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 17:18:52 -0400  (EDT)
From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject:  [Tigers] This looks like a con job.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other-Makes-1965-Sunbeam-Tiger-Mk1-2-door-196
5-Sunbeam-Tiger-Mk1-/321149226483?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4ac5fc4df3
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 02:59:53 2013
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From: "Kirk Smith" <twotigers@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <120aa3.2abeb026.3ef70a11@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 01:55:04 -0700
Thread-index: Ac5vUiUO7+slcangQS+B1QH7gw/3qAC+FHhg
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Flying Tiger-
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I think it's probably got a lightweight plastic mannequin on the bike- he,
she, 'it'- never moves it's head while turning, never changes leg position,
never puts a foot down- I think it is being flown remotely with a
lightweight dummy aboard. 

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of CoolVT@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 7:09 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Flying Tiger- Non Tiger content

A little bigger fan attached to the hood, a second  fan  attached to the
trunk  lid........................................hmmm.
 
 http://wimp.com/flyingbike/
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 04:02:04 2013
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 05:59:56 -0400 (EDT)
To: rjn@xtra.co.nz
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] 1965 Sunbeam Tiger
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Hi
    I e-mailed Martin and said, I had cash in hand and  wanted to see it. 
Never got a reply. Complete scam Every once and a while a  Tiger ad will  
appear here  http://losangeles.craigslist.org/     .  Are you looking for a 
Tiger?         Lee
 
 
    This is my question and Martins response;
    
Have cash in hand need to see this. Where/When can I see this?
 
 
In a message dated 6/24/2013 5:40:26 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
anita.jones76@aol.com writes:

Hi,

Thanks for your interest. I have a  clear title in my name. Please find a 
link to additional photos bellow my  message. My asking price is $19,000. The 
vehicle is in great working  condition, it's been serviced recently and 
needs nothing.This Mark I  Convertible with removable hardtop has undergone an 
extensive documented  restoration. Amazingly it comes with the original 
purchase order receipt.  Nestled between the frame rails is the famed 289 cu in 
power house which is  mated to a top loader 4-Speed gear box. The correct 
4.3L 260 cu in V8 still  accompanies the car Matching interior (just check the 
photos bellow my  message).

I am currently away for a few days, but I will get back home  to Conneaut 
OH, where the vehicle is located, late next week. I can arrange  shipping to 
your location when I get there. For payment I accept bank wire  transfer. If 
we close this deal I will email you a scan of the title before  wiring the 
payment. Let me know if you agree with my terms. Alternately we can  close 
this deal using ebay's vehicle purchase protection. You can secure your  
purchase today by wiring the money to ebay. Ebay will hold your payment until  
you receive the vehicle from the shipper or until you inspect it and agree to 
 buy it. Either way, let me know which way is better for  you.


Thanks,
Martin

Additional  photos:

http://imageupper.com/g/?S020001005Y13720763352359261


 
 
 
in a message dated 6/25/2013 11:59:48 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
rjn@xtra.co.nz writes:
 
Hi,
I also received a similar email from Martin  regarding that car. I emailed 
him back with some questions, and have  received a reply. Did you suggest 
you would go over to see the car? What  was his response to that?
Regards,
Richard Nowacki
39B Konini Rd, Greenlane, Auckland 1061, New Zealand
P.O. Box 12 010,  Penrose, Auckland 1642, New Zealand
Ph +64 9 579 8084





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Checked by AVG - _www.avg.com_ (http://www.avg.com/) 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 05:08:46 2013
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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 07:06:16 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-Sunbeam-Tiger-/161053943892?ViewItem=&ss
PageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123&item=161053943892&forcev4exp=true
 
My Tiger is a 66 MK1 A. When it was sold to the original owner it was  
registered on the pink as a 67. If I was to sell it I woudl sell it as a  66. Do 
these people know what they have? Evidently this one doesn't as this is  
also listed as FWD. Tempting though.
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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 10:39:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brakes
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

After 30 years in storage, the rear brakes are frozen. The wheel cylinders fail to move even after soaking in solvent. Any suggestions? Can I get new ones? Where? How much?
The adjusters are also frozen and have not soaked free. Any suggestions?

Carl
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Brakes
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HiCarl, 


Have a look at Sunbeam Specialties, www.rootes.com, catalog, page 17 for rear wheel cylinder (HP44), page 18 for adjuster unit (BP45). No affiliation. 


Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Halgren" <cghalgren@yahoo.com> 
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 12:39:59 PM 
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brakes 

After 30 years in storage, the rear brakes are frozen. The wheel cylinders fail to move even after soaking in solvent. Any suggestions? Can I get new ones? Where? How much? 
The adjusters are also frozen and have not soaked free. Any suggestions? 

Carl 
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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 15:52:54 -0400
From: Chip Broadbooks <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
To: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Kia Optima
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

So Lance, my 12 y/o son, and I were out for a Sunday drive in the Kitty.
 We get off the Interstate (I-40), headed towards the house, and sitting at
the red light on the off ramp.  There are two lanes turning left, which
crosses under the interstate and there is a red light directly on the other
side of the underpass. We were in the inside lane.  A car pulls up beside
us, and when the light turns green, just takes off fast as hell, only to
stop at the red light on the other side of the underpass.

We pull up at the light next to him and he starts revving his engine.  Both
Lance and I look over at him, and Lance looks back at me.  Lance:
"Dad.....Does he want to race?"
Me: "It kind of sounds that way."
Lance: "Um.... He's in a Kia. *A KIA!!*!"
And we both start laughing.

The light turns green and he just lights up his tires and is just
accelerating *seemingly* very quickly. I didn't take off fast because
really, I wasn't expecting THAT from a Kia!

At the next light, we pull up beside him again.  We're in the left lane,
he's in the right.  About two hundred yards after the light, the right lane
merges into the left and you're on a semi-rural road.  He starts revving up
his engine again.  Lance looks over at him and then back at me.
"Uh-oh. I know that look. I need to hold on don't I?"
I just smiled and winked at him.

The light turns green, and of course I hit the gas as his tires were
smoking again.  I had him enough he had to drop in behind me at the merge.
 Then I shifted to 2nd, and let the Kitty run.  He was right there for a
bit. At least until through the wheel hop I got as the tires were spinning.
 And then we left him.

About 2 miles down the road, we pull into the turn lane going towards our
house. He pulls up again, rolled his window down, and gave us the thumbs
up. As we were turning left, he was steady burning rubber again, taking off
from the light.  I really didn't give it too much thought, after all, it
was just a Kia.

We're at the house and I am making dinner as Lance is on his iPad.
"Uhhh.....Dad?"
"Yeah Buddy."
"Do you know how many ponies that Kia had?"
"Nope. Not a clue.  I know he didn't have enough!" I said laughing.
"274 Horsepower."
"WHAT!!!"
"274 Horsepower, and about 3200 pounds."
"Let me see that!"

Holy Crap!!! He was right!!
274 ponies in a 4 cyl KIA!!!!!



-- 
*Never fear an unknown future to a known God!*
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 15:28:03 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: "Ron Young" <ron.young@cox.net>
To: "Chip Broadbooks" <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>, "LIST TIGER"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <t7te1l00z0koGQ6017tgLJ>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 14:21:45 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Kia Optima
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Chip,
I am one of the "lurkers" on the Tiger email list.  I have always loved 
Tigers, they came out while I was in high school in Germany (Frankfurt 
American).  Obviously, your Tiger is not stock otherwise you would have been 
spanked badly!  The KIA specifically, and Korean cars in general have made 
vast improvements over the last few years.  KIA hired Audi's chief designer 
and must be given a lot of credit for the looks of the current Optima.  Be 
aware the Optima and Hyundai Sonata turbos are kissing cousins.  The drive 
trains are identical.  A few of other things to think about:  the mileage is 
great- even playing around the guy was probably getting better mileage than 
the Tiger can get while behaving (32+ HWY), six speed auto, and a 10 year, 
100,000 mile warranty- all for around $25K.  BTW, check out the Optima's 
that are being raced professionally (I forget the series), they are doing 
very well, with relatively few modifications.  Another thing, yes, I do have 
an Optima Turbo, and I do qualify as a "geezer".  Having said that, the 
insurance on my Optima is over $1,000 less than the 2010 Camaro V-6 that I 
had- and the KIA is quicker and gets better mileage!  Depending upon where 
you check, 0-60 ranges from around 5.9 to 6.2 seconds- again your Tiger must 
not be stock!

Glad you had fun, it sounds like your son did, too.

Ron Young
Dana Point
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chip Broadbooks" <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
To: "LIST TIGER" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 12:52 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Kia Optima


> So Lance, my 12 y/o son, and I were out for a Sunday drive in the Kitty.
> We get off the Interstate (I-40), headed towards the house, and sitting at
> the red light on the off ramp.  There are two lanes turning left, which
> crosses under the interstate and there is a red light directly on the 
> other
> side of the underpass. We were in the inside lane.  A car pulls up beside
> us, and when the light turns green, just takes off fast as hell, only to
> stop at the red light on the other side of the underpass.
>
> We pull up at the light next to him and he starts revving his engine. 
> Both
> Lance and I look over at him, and Lance looks back at me.  Lance:
> "Dad.....Does he want to race?"
> Me: "It kind of sounds that way."
> Lance: "Um.... He's in a Kia. *A KIA!!*!"
> And we both start laughing.
>
> The light turns green and he just lights up his tires and is just
> accelerating *seemingly* very quickly. I didn't take off fast because
> really, I wasn't expecting THAT from a Kia!
>
> At the next light, we pull up beside him again.  We're in the left lane,
> he's in the right.  About two hundred yards after the light, the right 
> lane
> merges into the left and you're on a semi-rural road.  He starts revving 
> up
> his engine again.  Lance looks over at him and then back at me.
> "Uh-oh. I know that look. I need to hold on don't I?"
> I just smiled and winked at him.
>
> The light turns green, and of course I hit the gas as his tires were
> smoking again.  I had him enough he had to drop in behind me at the merge.
> Then I shifted to 2nd, and let the Kitty run.  He was right there for a
> bit. At least until through the wheel hop I got as the tires were 
> spinning.
> And then we left him.
>
> About 2 miles down the road, we pull into the turn lane going towards our
> house. He pulls up again, rolled his window down, and gave us the thumbs
> up. As we were turning left, he was steady burning rubber again, taking 
> off
> from the light.  I really didn't give it too much thought, after all, it
> was just a Kia.
>
> We're at the house and I am making dinner as Lance is on his iPad.
> "Uhhh.....Dad?"
> "Yeah Buddy."
> "Do you know how many ponies that Kia had?"
> "Nope. Not a clue.  I know he didn't have enough!" I said laughing.
> "274 Horsepower."
> "WHAT!!!"
> "274 Horsepower, and about 3200 pounds."
> "Let me see that!"
>
> Holy Crap!!! He was right!!
> 274 ponies in a 4 cyl KIA!!!!!
>
>
>
> -- 
> *Never fear an unknown future to a known God!*
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/ron.young@cox.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 20:36:18 2013
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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 22:24:07 -0400
To: "Ron Young" <ron.young@cox.net>, "Chip Broadbooks"
	<chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>, "LIST TIGER" <tigers@autox.team.net>
From: Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>
References: <t7te1l00z0koGQ6017tgLJ> <1EFA4AA249B94B1698D9531866207215@YoungPC>
	s=q20121106; t=1372300435;
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	UKOqInlnRviqw==
Subject: [Tigers] Very OT:  Korean Cars
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I still have a pile of VW and Sunbeam parts
sinking into the dirt under my back deck.

My wife bought a 2004 Hyundai Elantra straight in
2005 and I was really impressed with it.  Then
she traded that for a 2006 Sonata slide-o-matic
and that has been our daily driver for the past
four years.  (I AM a geezer, at 63, and am very
much retired, while Pam works at home in senior
medical management, so we rarely 'daily
drive'.)  Now, she is buying her son-in-law's
2003 Santa Fe for me, a straight, of course:  I
have never owned a slide-o-matic and shall never
do so.  When I cannot figure out which gear to be
in, well, then it is time for me to be off the road.

The Koreans build great cars.  We put a thousand
miles on a Kia in Ireland a decade back and
another thousand on another one in Alaska seven years ago.

Hyundai seems to be the most profitable car maker
in the world at present, and I can see
why.  Wonderful cars, wonderful service.

Marc


msmall@aya.yale.edu
Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 19:36:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: james ellis <hunber@bellsouth.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Very OT:  Korean Cars
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

No one can out shift a puter not even Bill "Grumpy" Jenkins... if you recall
who he is or perhaps was

--- On Wed, 6/26/13, Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net> wrote:


From: Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Very OT: Korean Cars
To: "Ron Young" <ron.young@cox.net>, "Chip Broadbooks"
<chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>, "LIST TIGER" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, June 26, 2013, 10:24 PM


I still have a pile of VW and Sunbeam parts
sinking into the dirt under my back deck.

My wife bought a 2004 Hyundai Elantra straight in
2005 and I was really impressed with it.  Then
she traded that for a 2006 Sonata slide-o-matic
and that has been our daily driver for the past
four years.  (I AM a geezer, at 63, and am very
much retired, while Pam works at home in senior
medical management, so we rarely 'daily
drive'.)  Now, she is buying her son-in-law's
2003 Santa Fe for me, a straight, of course:  I
have never owned a slide-o-matic and shall never
do so.  When I cannot figure out which gear to be
in, well, then it is time for me to be off the road.

The Koreans build great cars.  We put a thousand
miles on a Kia in Ireland a decade back and
another thousand on another one in Alaska seven years ago.

Hyundai seems to be the most profitable car maker
in the world at present, and I can see
why.  Wonderful cars, wonderful service.

Marc


msmall@aya.yale.edu
Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 20:48:26 2013
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Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 22:43:28 -0400
To: james ellis <hunber@bellsouth.net>,tigers@autox.team.net
From: Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>
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	HONLYDFjgIntQ==
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Very OT:  Korean Cars
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

At 10:36 PM 6/26/2013, james ellis wrote:
 >No one can out shift a puter not even Bill "Grumpy" Jenkins... if you
recall
 >who he is or perhaps was

I met Porky Chedwick once, and none of you know who he is.  <he grins>

Marc


msmall@aya.yale.edu
Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!
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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 08:01:55 -0400
From: Chip Broadbooks <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
To: LIST TIGER <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd:  Kia Optima
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I had sent this to Ron, but not the rest of the list. Some of you know the
story behind the Tiger.

I don't recall exactly when my dad parked the car, but the tag went out on
his birthday in 1975. I was seven years old at that time.

Jay L:
I have been perusing the thread you sent me concerning keeping the Kitty
calm so she doesn't get hot under the collar. Thanks. I am digesting the
vast wealth of info your dad and others had.

HP to weight ratio:
Mine about 12HP/100 Lbs.
Kia about 8.5HP/100 Lbs.

HP to cubic inch ratio:
Mine: 1.1 HP/in^3 (I rounded up)
Kia: 2.25 HP/in^3

Ron,

Wow!!! I knew that both had made vast improvements, and were no longer
"disposable." I really had no idea about the HP. I had a 2007 Hyundai
Sonata V6, Platinum Edition. It could certainly scoot. But not as quick as
the Tiger.

As far as being stock, No. My dad gave it to me the week before he passed
away, so I spent the last 4 years, getting it back on the road. He parked
it in 1974.

The original engine is off to the side. I have a high-performance 289 in it
now. Somewhere between the 315 and 325 horsepower range. The guy who built
the engine, was a really good friend of my dad. He had started building
muscle car engines in the late 60's for the 1/4 mile. My tach is original
so it hits red at 5000 rpm, but realistically, it's at 6000, and I can take
it to 6500, but since my tach doesn't go that high, I don't. Wonder why the
Kitty starts getting a bit red under the collar if she sits too long....

If you do an internet search on Toploader transmission specialist, two come
up. One is in Texas (David Kee), and one is in Franklin, North Carolina
(Dan Williams.) I am an hour away from Franklin!! So you can guess where I
took my transmission! He switched out the gears, and put his "Racing
Package" in. In 4th gear at 3000 rpm I'm doing 80 miles per hour.

So...... I am VERY glad it's not stock! I would have had my butt handed to
me!

Chip

-- 
*Never fear an unknown future to a known God!*
_______________________________________________

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From: "robert jaarsma" <64venezia@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 08:05:22 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5z98DXtQG70NvaSYCtOlxfLEJ3ag==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

My Tiger with a 289 needed a new water pump, so I got the one from Sunbeam
Specialties. No surprises there. Pulley lined up perfectly with the balancer
pulley.

My generator was still ok, but I estimated its life would not be too much
longer. So for a while I thought about swapping it for an alternator. It
never really lined up perfectly. But during 20 years, never gave a problem
either. Possibly shortened the water pumps life? .

Since there was recently a discussion about alternators, I decide to take
the plunge and make it easy on myself and I bought the Powermaster unit. My
alternator pulley is off by > with the water pump pulley! The way its
pulley is mounted it has a heavy rim on the outside, which throws the
v-groove off by maybe 1/8. So if I turn it around, I will still be off by
>-1/8= 5/8. All powermaster other mounting dimensions are identical, 6
between the ears, to straddle the original mounting arm. Now I suspect the
original mounting bracket. 1). I could put spacer between it and the engine
block, the bring the alternator forwards. However the dipstick doesnt give
me much room. 2). I could bring the alternator forwards by putting the rear
ear on the front side of the bracket and add a spacer at the front ear. But
the alternator ear would not clear the rib of the cast Tiger mounting
bracket. Not an elegant solution. But then, how could the original cast
Tiger bracket be off by that much? If it was fabricated it possibly could
bend, but not a casting. Reyer and I measured everything again tonight, but
we can not see whats wrong. Any ideas?

Just one more thing besides my electrical problem: the white wire from
ignition switch to tach to coil resistor filled itself with Lucas smoke.
Why?? All insulation half burned. No obvious short I could see. I am almost
ready to take it all apart and rewire the whole car. Any body has any
ideas?? thanks, Robert Jaarsma
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 09:12:23 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: robert jaarsma <64venezia@gmail.com>
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Robert,

What are you using for an alternator bracket?

Tom
'67 Mark 2


On Fri, Jun 28, 2013 at 8:05 AM, robert jaarsma <64venezia@gmail.com> wrote:

> My Tiger with a 289 needed a new water pump, so I got the one from Sunbeam
> Specialties. No surprises there. Pulley lined up perfectly with the
> balancer
> pulley.
>
> My generator was still ok, but I estimated its life would not be too much
> longer. So for a while I thought about swapping it for an alternator. It
> never really lined up perfectly. But during 20 years, never gave a problem
> either. Possibly shortened the water pumps life? .
>
> Since there was recently a discussion about alternators, I decide to take
> the plunge and make it easy on myself and I bought the Powermaster unit. My
> alternator pulley is off by >  with the water pump pulley! The way its
> pulley is mounted it has a heavy rim on the outside, which throws the
> v-groove off by maybe 1/8 . So if I turn it around, I will still be off by
> >-1/8= 5/8 . All powermaster other mounting dimensions are identical, 6
> between the ears, to straddle the original mounting arm. Now I suspect the
> original mounting bracket. 1). I could put spacer between it and the engine
> block, the bring the alternator forwards. However the dipstick doesn t give
> me much room. 2). I could bring the alternator forwards by putting the rear
> ear on the front side of the bracket and add a spacer at the front ear. But
> the alternator ear would not clear the rib of the cast Tiger mounting
> bracket. Not an elegant solution. But then, how could the original cast
> Tiger bracket be off by that much? If it was fabricated it possibly could
> bend, but not a casting. Reyer and I measured everything again tonight, but
> we can not see what s wrong. Any ideas?
>
> Just one more thing besides my electrical problem: the white wire from
> ignition switch to tach to coil resistor filled itself with Lucas smoke.
> Why?? All insulation half burned. No obvious short I could see. I am almost
> ready to take it all apart and rewire the whole car. Any body has any
> ideas?? thanks, Robert Jaarsma
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 07:58:30 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'robert jaarsma'" <64venezia@gmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 09:52:46 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5z98DXtQG70NvaSYCtOlxfLEJ3agADOB8g
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-06-28_06:2013-06-28,2013-06-28,1970-01-01
	signatures=0
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	classifier=spam adjust=0 reason=mlx scancount=1
	engine=7.0.1-1305240000 definitions=main-1306280080
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Robert
	When I converted to an alternator system I used a 60s style
alternator and built my own bracket.  A different alternator would require
changing dimensions of that bracket to make your alternator fit and line up
correctly.

Some of the Ford alternator pulleys have a spacer on the alternator shaft.
Is this possible for your alternator?

Unfortunately you never know when Factory tolerances will stack up against
you and when you change parts it happens more often.

I believe the offset fan belts will tolerate is about 1/8" per foot of
distance.  A fan belt web site should list that information to check my
statement.  I personally prefer as little offset as possible.

I would not expect the white wire to smoke unless the ballast resistor
shorted to ground but you also need to check the white/blue wire for a
problem.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of robert jaarsma
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 8:05 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up


My Tiger with a 289 needed a new water pump, so I got the one from Sunbeam
Specialties. No surprises there. Pulley lined up perfectly with the balancer
pulley.

My generator was still ok, but I estimated its life would not be too much
longer. So for a while I thought about swapping it for an alternator. It
never really lined up perfectly. But during 20 years, never gave a problem
either. Possibly shortened the water pumps life? .

Since there was recently a discussion about alternators, I decide to take
the plunge and make it easy on myself and I bought the Powermaster unit. My
alternator pulley is off by > with the water pump pulley! The way its
pulley is mounted it has a heavy rim on the outside, which throws the
v-groove off by maybe 1/8. So if I turn it around, I will still be off by
>-1/8= 5/8. All powermaster other mounting dimensions are identical, 6
between the ears, to straddle the original mounting arm. Now I suspect the
original mounting bracket. 1). I could put spacer between it and the engine
block, the bring the alternator forwards. However the dipstick doesnt give
me much room. 2). I could bring the alternator forwards by putting the rear
ear on the front side of the bracket and add a spacer at the front ear. But
the alternator ear would not clear the rib of the cast Tiger mounting
bracket. Not an elegant solution. But then, how could the original cast
Tiger bracket be off by that much? If it was fabricated it possibly could
bend, but not a casting. Reyer and I measured everything again tonight, but
we can not see whats wrong. Any ideas?

Just one more thing besides my electrical problem: the white wire from
ignition switch to tach to coil resistor filled itself with Lucas smoke.
Why?? All insulation half burned. No obvious short I could see. I am almost
ready to take it all apart and rewire the whole car. Any body has any
ideas?? thanks, Robert Jaarsma
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
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References: <1372268399.19653.YahooMailNeo@web142605.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
To: cghalgren@yahoo.com, tigers@autox.team.net
From: phastphill@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Brakes
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30 year old brakes,remove,replace everything , clean inspect and repaint the
rest, backing plates etc, pitch the springs clips etc, and run new brake lines
and the flex hose, do it the right way now not later.  The whole system front
to rear should be new, it's all availabile and not worth skimping on.just my 2
cents



---- Original Message ----
From: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
To: tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jun 26, 2013 1:40 pm
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brakes


After 30 years in storage, the rear brakes are frozen. The wheel cylinders
fail
to move even after soaking in solvent. Any suggestions? Can I get new ones?
Where? How much?
The adjusters are also frozen and have not soaked free. Any suggestions?

Carl
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 10:26:54 -0400
From: Chip Broadbooks <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
To: robert jaarsma <64venezia@gmail.com>
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Tried to send this from my phone, but for some reason, it seems to be hung
up.

I used the alternator bracket CAT sells.  Lines up perfect.

The alternator bracket for a Mark II should work as well.  Obviously, they
are a bit hard to come by, and pricey when they are available.  You can
purchase an awesome reproduction one from Reisentz Restorations for $160.

http://www.reisentzrestorations.com/parts/parts.htm

Chip



On Fri, Jun 28, 2013 at 8:05 AM, robert jaarsma <64venezia@gmail.com> wrote:

> My Tiger with a 289 needed a new water pump, so I got the one from Sunbeam
> Specialties. No surprises there. Pulley lined up perfectly with the
> balancer
> pulley.
>
> My generator was still ok, but I estimated its life would not be too much
> longer. So for a while I thought about swapping it for an alternator. It
> never really lined up perfectly. But during 20 years, never gave a problem
> either. Possibly shortened the water pumps life? .
>
> Since there was recently a discussion about alternators, I decide to take
> the plunge and make it easy on myself and I bought the Powermaster unit. My
> alternator pulley is off by >  with the water pump pulley! The way its
> pulley is mounted it has a heavy rim on the outside, which throws the
> v-groove off by maybe 1/8 . So if I turn it around, I will still be off by
> >-1/8= 5/8 . All powermaster other mounting dimensions are identical, 6
> between the ears, to straddle the original mounting arm. Now I suspect the
> original mounting bracket. 1). I could put spacer between it and the engine
> block, the bring the alternator forwards. However the dipstick doesn t give
> me much room. 2). I could bring the alternator forwards by putting the rear
> ear on the front side of the bracket and add a spacer at the front ear. But
> the alternator ear would not clear the rib of the cast Tiger mounting
> bracket. Not an elegant solution. But then, how could the original cast
> Tiger bracket be off by that much? If it was fabricated it possibly could
> bend, but not a casting. Reyer and I measured everything again tonight, but
> we can not see what s wrong. Any ideas?
>
> Just one more thing besides my electrical problem: the white wire from
> ignition switch to tach to coil resistor filled itself with Lucas smoke.
> Why?? All insulation half burned. No obvious short I could see. I am almost
> ready to take it all apart and rewire the whole car. Any body has any
> ideas?? thanks, Robert Jaarsma
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/chip.broadbooks@gmail.com
>
>
>


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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 09:27:26 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: phastphill@aol.com, cghalgren@yahoo.com, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Brakes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree with Phil. Also decide if you are going with the booster and make provisions, like smaller bore MC and proper lines and lastly if you've considered rear disc as parts and brackets available from one of our members. Theo is also knowledge, other wise fix the stock items properly now.
TtT 
Sent from Huawei Mobile

phastphill@aol.com wrote:

>30 year old brakes,remove,replace everything , clean inspect and repaint the
>rest, backing plates etc, pitch the springs clips etc, and run new brake lines
>and the flex hose, do it the right way now not later.  The whole system front
>to rear should be new, it's all availabile and not worth skimping on.just my 2
>cents
>
>
>
>---- Original Message ----
>From: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
>To: tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wed, Jun 26, 2013 1:40 pm
>Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brakes
>
>
>After 30 years in storage, the rear brakes are frozen. The wheel cylinders
>fail
>to move even after soaking in solvent. Any suggestions? Can I get new ones?
>Where? How much?
>The adjusters are also frozen and have not soaked free. Any suggestions?
>
>Carl
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
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>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
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References: <001701ce73f7$c5270c30$4f752490$@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 11:03:20 -0400
From: Chip Broadbooks <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
To: robert jaarsma <64venezia@gmail.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I used the alternator bracket from CAT. Lines up perfect.

www.reisentzrestorations.com has an aluminum version of the Mark II for
$160.
On Jun 28, 2013 8:11 AM, "robert jaarsma" <64venezia@gmail.com> wrote:

> My Tiger with a 289 needed a new water pump, so I got the one from Sunbeam
> Specialties. No surprises there. Pulley lined up perfectly with the
> balancer
> pulley.
>
> My generator was still ok, but I estimated its life would not be too much
> longer. So for a while I thought about swapping it for an alternator. It
> never really lined up perfectly. But during 20 years, never gave a problem
> either. Possibly shortened the water pumps life? .
>
> Since there was recently a discussion about alternators, I decide to take
> the plunge and make it easy on myself and I bought the Powermaster unit. My
> alternator pulley is off by >  with the water pump pulley! The way its
> pulley is mounted it has a heavy rim on the outside, which throws the
> v-groove off by maybe 1/8 . So if I turn it around, I will still be off by
> >-1/8= 5/8 . All powermaster other mounting dimensions are identical, 6
> between the ears, to straddle the original mounting arm. Now I suspect the
> original mounting bracket. 1). I could put spacer between it and the engine
> block, the bring the alternator forwards. However the dipstick doesn t give
> me much room. 2). I could bring the alternator forwards by putting the rear
> ear on the front side of the bracket and add a spacer at the front ear. But
> the alternator ear would not clear the rib of the cast Tiger mounting
> bracket. Not an elegant solution. But then, how could the original cast
> Tiger bracket be off by that much? If it was fabricated it possibly could
> bend, but not a casting. Reyer and I measured everything again tonight, but
> we can not see what s wrong. Any ideas?
>
> Just one more thing besides my electrical problem: the white wire from
> ignition switch to tach to coil resistor filled itself with Lucas smoke.
> Why?? All insulation half burned. No obvious short I could see. I am almost
> ready to take it all apart and rewire the whole car. Any body has any
> ideas?? thanks, Robert Jaarsma
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/chip.broadbooks@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 09:16:53 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Chip Broadbooks'" <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>, "'robert jaarsma'"
	<64venezia@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 11:15:14 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac50C8NHS58IW693SZ6tZfdPgAfpYwAA6Huw
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Cc: 'LIST TIGER' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Chip is correct Reisentz Restorations, Sunbeam Specialties and CAT have an
Alternator bracket.  The only alternative is to design your own and
fabricate one.   I used plywood, it took about 3 iteration to position the
alternator to my satisfaction.  I then fabricate the bracket out of steel
and welded it together.

	The problem is when you are not using Stock style parts; the
position of everything must be checked.  Different parts can have slightly
different offsets or the mounting posts are in a slightly different
position.  These tolerances can add up against you or they can work in your
favor.  The point is to check them.

	I like to use the laser pointer on my infrared thermometer.  I line
it up in the bottom of the generator or alternator pulley groove then rotate
it carefully to point at the water pump groove or the crank pulley.  A laser
with a pulley groove profile mount would be even better.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chip Broadbooks
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 10:27 AM
To: robert jaarsma
Cc: LIST TIGER
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up


Tried to send this from my phone, but for some reason, it seems to be hung
up.

I used the alternator bracket CAT sells.  Lines up perfect.

The alternator bracket for a Mark II should work as well.  Obviously, they
are a bit hard to come by, and pricey when they are available.  You can
purchase an awesome reproduction one from Reisentz Restorations for $160.

http://www.reisentzrestorations.com/parts/parts.htm

Chip



On Fri, Jun 28, 2013 at 8:05 AM, robert jaarsma <64venezia@gmail.com> wrote:

> My Tiger with a 289 needed a new water pump, so I got the one from
> Sunbeam Specialties. No surprises there. Pulley lined up perfectly
> with the balancer pulley.
>
> My generator was still ok, but I estimated its life would not be too
> much longer. So for a while I thought about swapping it for an
> alternator. It never really lined up perfectly. But during 20 years,
> never gave a problem either. Possibly shortened the water pumps life?
> .
>
> Since there was recently a discussion about alternators, I decide to
> take the plunge and make it easy on myself and I bought the
> Powermaster unit. My alternator pulley is off by >  with the water
> pump pulley! The way its pulley is mounted it has a heavy rim on the
> outside, which throws the v-groove off by maybe 1/8 . So if I turn it
> around, I will still be off by
> >-1/8= 5/8 . All powermaster other mounting dimensions are identical,
> >6
> between the ears, to straddle the original mounting arm. Now I suspect
> the original mounting bracket. 1). I could put spacer between it and
> the engine block, the bring the alternator forwards. However the
> dipstick doesn t give me much room. 2). I could bring the alternator
> forwards by putting the rear ear on the front side of the bracket and
> add a spacer at the front ear. But the alternator ear would not clear
> the rib of the cast Tiger mounting bracket. Not an elegant solution.
> But then, how could the original cast Tiger bracket be off by that
> much? If it was fabricated it possibly could bend, but not a casting.
> Reyer and I measured everything again tonight, but we can not see what
> s wrong. Any ideas?
>
> Just one more thing besides my electrical problem: the white wire from
> ignition switch to tach to coil resistor filled itself with Lucas
> smoke. Why?? All insulation half burned. No obvious short I could see.
> I am almost ready to take it all apart and rewire the whole car. Any
> body has any ideas?? thanks, Robert Jaarsma
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/chip.broadbooks@gmail.com
>
>
>


--
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_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 10:32:17 2013
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From: "Paul R. Breuhan" <prbreuhan@hotmail.com>
To: robert jaarsma <64venezia@gmail.com>, Tigers Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 12:30:21 -0400
References: <001701ce73f7$c5270c30$4f752490$@gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[C8ED3C20:01CE741C]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I used a chrome Chevy style bracket on the upper/outer part where you adjust
the tension on the fan belt (I believe I cut down the end where it attached
the water pump for clearance).
Then I used a couple simple brackets mounted to the water pump & engine and a
couple spacers.
The previous owner of my former Tiger used an overly complex system that I
simplified as my starting point.
I think the alternator was just a pretty much standard Ford part.
Links to a PDF and a picture can be found here...
http://www.breuhan.com/sunbeam/AltBrackets.pdf
http://www.breuhan.com/sunbeam/AlternatorPic.jpg
Hope this helps a little bit.
Paul


> From: 64venezia@gmail.com
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 08:05:22 -0400
> Subject: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
>
> My Tiger with a 289 needed a new water pump, so I got the one from Sunbeam
> Specialties. No surprises there. Pulley lined up perfectly with the
balancer
> pulley.
>
> My generator was still ok, but I estimated its life would not be too much
> longer. So for a while I thought about swapping it for an alternator. It
> never really lined up perfectly. But during 20 years, never gave a problem
> either. Possibly shortened the water pumps life? .
>
> Since there was recently a discussion about alternators, I decide to take
> the plunge and make it easy on myself and I bought the Powermaster unit. My
> alternator pulley is off by > with the water pump pulley! The way its
> pulley is mounted it has a heavy rim on the outside, which throws the
> v-groove off by maybe 1/8. So if I turn it around, I will still be off by
> >-1/8= 5/8. All powermaster other mounting dimensions are identical, 6
> between the ears, to straddle the original mounting arm. Now I suspect the
> original mounting bracket. 1). I could put spacer between it and the engine
> block, the bring the alternator forwards. However the dipstick doesnt give
> me much room. 2). I could bring the alternator forwards by putting the rear
> ear on the front side of the bracket and add a spacer at the front ear. But
> the alternator ear would not clear the rib of the cast Tiger mounting
> bracket. Not an elegant solution. But then, how could the original cast
> Tiger bracket be off by that much? If it was fabricated it possibly could
> bend, but not a casting. Reyer and I measured everything again tonight, but
> we can not see whats wrong. Any ideas?
>
> Just one more thing besides my electrical problem: the white wire from
> ignition switch to tach to coil resistor filled itself with Lucas smoke.
> Why?? All insulation half burned. No obvious short I could see. I am almost
> ready to take it all apart and rewire the whole car. Any body has any
> ideas?? thanks, Robert Jaarsma
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/prbreuhan@hotmail.com
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 10:49:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Robert
 
I too bought the 
Alternator, PowerGEN, Internal Regulator, 90 Amp,
12 Volt, Black Powdercoated only too find that the ' rear' of the unit was
1/4" WIDER and with the stock MK 1A bracket and adjuster, it hit the fender -
I\we tried all sorts of different spacers etc, slightly shorter fan belt and
just could not get it to work.  I had already had the original bracket Tig
welded to fix 2 cracks so I did not want to go bracket hunting or making.
 
This was too bad, the unit is a spitting image of the original generator and
kept the original look but being a alternator.  I even thought of grinding
down the rear to get it to fit, but not much adjustment either way.
 
Regards
Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 11:53:42 2013
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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: 'LIST TIGER' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
Thread-Index: Ac50KEXp9uj+HwyaSj+fX7KdBHebpQ==
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 17:52:40 +0000
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
x-originating-ip: [3.159.212.192]
	FILETIME=[4D870050:01CE7428]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Guys, the issue is Robert bought one of the Powermaster PowerGEN alternators
that are supposed to be a drop-in replacement for the existing generator. I
have installed two of these without an issue but that was at least four years
ago since the last and the design may have changed.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-82101/overview/make/ford


Robert, I suggest you look at modifying your pulley position on the
alternator, not messing with your bracket. Powermaster has other pulleys
available or ask them they may have another option.

Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ron Fraser
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 11:15 AM
To: 'Chip Broadbooks'; 'robert jaarsma'
Cc: 'LIST TIGER'
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up

Chip is correct Reisentz Restorations, Sunbeam Specialties and CAT have an
Alternator bracket.  The only alternative is to design your own and
fabricate one.   I used plywood, it took about 3 iteration to position the
alternator to my satisfaction.  I then fabricate the bracket out of steel and
welded it together.

	The problem is when you are not using Stock style parts; the position of
everything must be checked.  Different parts can have slightly different
offsets or the mounting posts are in a slightly different position.  These
tolerances can add up against you or they can work in your favor.  The point
is to check them.

	I like to use the laser pointer on my infrared thermometer.  I line it up in
the bottom of the generator or alternator pulley groove then rotate it
carefully to point at the water pump groove or the crank pulley.  A laser with
a pulley groove profile mount would be even better.

Ron Fraser
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 15:37:08 2013
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From: David or Gary Franchi <wwwdg@webtv.net>
To: robert jaarsma <64venezia@gmail.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 21:35:02 GMT
	FILETIME=[5945A6C0:01CE7447]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Robert, It is posible you don't have the special Tiger bracket, since you said it never lined up originally.

I have this saved from an old post on the diffrence between a Tiger Generator bracket and a Ford bracket. 
I took a few photos comparing them. This Tiger bracket is only marked with a Triangle with a "C"or "O" inside and a "1" next to it. The Tiger bracket offset is about 11/16" closer to the head and it is shaped a little differently. 

David Franchi

Misc. bracket pictures, Tiger is always on the left.

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477547.jpg 
--

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477548.jpg 
--

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477549.jpg 
--

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477550.jpg 
--

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477551.jpg 
--

Tiger and Ford markings.
http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477552.jpg 
--

Tiger marking close-up.

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477553.jpg
--


-----Original Message-----
From: robert jaarsma
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 5:05 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up

My Tiger with a 289 needed a new water pump, so I got the one from Sunbeam
Specialties. No surprises there. Pulley lined up perfectly with the balancer
pulley.

My generator was still ok, but I estimated its life would not be too much
longer. So for a while I thought about swapping it for an alternator. It
never really lined up perfectly. But during 20 years, never gave a problem
either. Possibly shortened the water pumps life? .

Since there was recently a discussion about alternators, I decide to take
the plunge and make it easy on myself and I bought the Powermaster unit. My
alternator pulley is off by > with the water pump pulley! The way its
pulley is mounted it has a heavy rim on the outside, which throws the
v-groove off by maybe 1/8. So if I turn it around, I will still be off by
>-1/8= 5/8. All powermaster other mounting dimensions are identical, 6
between the ears, to straddle the original mounting arm. Now I suspect the
original mounting bracket. 1). I could put spacer between it and the engine
block, the bring the alternator forwards. However the dipstick doesnt give
me much room. 2). I could bring the alternator forwards by putting the rear
ear on the front side of the bracket and add a spacer at the front ear. But
the alternator ear would not clear the rib of the cast Tiger mounting
bracket. Not an elegant solution. But then, how could the original cast
Tiger bracket be off by that much? If it was fabricated it possibly could
bend, but not a casting. Reyer and I measured everything again tonight, but
we can not see whats wrong. Any ideas?

Just one more thing besides my electrical problem: the white wire from
ignition switch to tach to coil resistor filled itself with Lucas smoke.
Why?? All insulation half burned. No obvious short I could see. I am almost
ready to take it all apart and rewire the whole car. Any body has any
ideas?? thanks, Robert Jaarsma
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wwwdg@webtv.net
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 17:59:47 2013
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 23:59:38 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: David or Gary Franchi <wwwdg@webtv.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1372463978;
	bh=0VB+vT9usjVG+tSck5jG5mlf7CuybXIqVWTLgp8/ogA=;
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	aXSW7SeI+hLQQ==
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net, robert jaarsma <64venezia@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

A Ford bracket instead of a Tiger bracket is a pretty large mis-alignment.

The Tiger generator pulley is also different from the normal Ford one.
The wrong pulley causes a small mis-alignment.
The Tiger pulley can be identified by placing a dime(US 10cent coin) on the
section between
the fan and the beginning of the V groove.  A common Ford pulley has less
than the dime's distance.

Gary

    ----- Original Message -----  From: David or Gary Franchi
<wwwdg@webtv.net>  To: robert jaarsma <64venezia@gmail.com>,
tigers@autox.team.net  Sent: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 21:35:02 -0000 (UTC)  Subject:
Re: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up    Robert, It is posible you don't have the
special Tiger bracket, since you said it never lined up originally.    I have
this saved from an old post on the diffrence between a Tiger Generator bracket
and a Ford bracket.   I took a few photos comparing them. This Tiger bracket
is only marked with a Triangle with a "C"or "O" inside and a "1" next to it.
The Tiger bracket offset is about 11/16" closer to the head and it is shaped a
little differently.     David Franchi    Misc. bracket pictures, Tiger is
always on the left.
http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477547.jpg   --
http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477548.jpg   --
http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477549.jpg   --
http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477550.jpg   --
http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477551.jpg   --
Tiger and Ford markings.
http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477552.jpg   --
Tiger marking close-up.
http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL439/2051017/23401185/398477553.jpg  --
-----Original Message-----  From: robert jaarsma  Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013
5:05 AM  To: tigers@autox.team.net  Subject: [Tigers] Pulley Line-up    My
Tiger with a 289 needed a new water pump, so I got the one from Sunbeam
Specialties. No surprises there. Pulley lined up perfectly with the balancer
pulley.    My generator was still ok, but I estimated its life would not be
too much  longer. So for a while I thought about swapping it for an
alternator. It  never really lined up perfectly. But during 20 years, never
gave a problem  either. Possibly shortened the water pumps life? .    Since
there was recently a discussion about alternators, I decide to take  the
plunge and make it easy on myself and I bought the Powermaster unit. My
alternator pulley is off by > with the water pump pulley! The way its  pulley
is mounted it has a heavy rim on the outside, which throws the  v-groove off
by maybe 1/8. So if I turn it around, I will still be off by  >-1/8= 5/8. All
powermaster other mounting dimensions are identical, 6  between the ears, to
straddle the original mounting arm. Now I suspect the  original mounting
bracket. 1). I could put spacer between it and the engine  block, the bring
the alternator forwards. However the dipstick doesnt give  me much room. 2). I
could bring the alternator forwards by putting the rear  ear on the front side
of the bracket and add a spacer at the front ear. But  the alternator ear
would not clear the rib of the cast Tiger mounting  bracket. Not an elegant
solution. But then, how could the original cast  Tiger bracket be off by that
much? If it was fabricated it possibly could  bend, but not a casting. Reyer
and I measured everything again tonight, but  we can not see whats wrong. Any
ideas?    Just one more thing besides my electrical problem: the white wire
from  ignition switch to tach to coil resistor filled itself with Lucas smoke.
Why?? All insulation half burned. No obvious short I could see. I am almost
ready to take it all apart and rewire the whole car. Any body has any  ideas??
thanks, Robert Jaarsma  _______________________________________________
tigers@autox.team.net    Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html  Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wwwdg@webtv.net
_______________________________________________    tigers@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 01:09:14 2013
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 17:09:05 +1000
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] another Tiger fraud auction
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

*Fraud tiger auction! This car is for sale in Melbourne Australia at the
healey factory.. NOT IN THE USA!!!

beware!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other-Makes-SUNBEAM-TIGER-RHD-Convertible-1964-sunbeam-tiger-mk-i-sports-rhd-/111108853991?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item19de9a90e7&vxp=mtr
*

-- 
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 08:59:18 2013
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 10:59:06 -0400 (EDT)
To: michael.s.king@gmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1372517946;
	bh=t8VaLHPXSsC2iTpRRWaPvXRvvGr7wNhRjBV3eZG+RBs=;
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] another Tiger fraud auction
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Reported this to E-bay. Wonder how long it will be up.
 
 
In a message dated 6/29/2013 12:09:25 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
michael.s.king@gmail.com writes:

Fraud  tiger auction! This car is for sale in Melbourne Australia at the
healey  factory.. 
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 11:28:58 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1372519738;
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Subject: [Tigers] Fwd:FRAUD SUNBEAM TIGER RHD Co...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

____________________________________
 From: member@ebay.com
To:  aaaglasss@aol.com
Sent: 6/29/2013 8:27:00 A.M. Pacific Daylight  Time
Subj: Other: aaaglasss sent a message about Other Makes : SUNBEAM  TIGER
RHD Convertible #111108853991






         eBay  sent this message to ALAN FESTICH (aaaglasss).
Your  registered name is included to show this message originated from
eBay. _Learn  more_
(http://pages.ebay.com/help/confidence/name-userid-emails.html) .


    This  member has a question for you.        Do  not respond to the
sender if this message requests that you complete the  transaction outside of
eBay. This type of offer is against eBay policy,  may be fraudulent, and is
not covered by buyer protection programs. _Learn  More_
(http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/rfe-spam-non-ebay-sale.html)







    Dear  tom_jinj,

I'm in Wobern, Ma. where/when can I see  this?

-  aaaglasss










(http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11050.m43.l1123/7?euid=855a8660beaf4ab2a8c50d
c4b5677f54&loc=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIte
m&item=111108853991&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123)      _Other  Makes :
SUNBEAM TIGER RHD Convertible_
(http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11050.m43.l1123/7?euid=855a8660beaf4ab2a8c50d
c4b5677f54&loc=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor
s/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111108853991&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1
123)   Item Id: 111108853991  End time: Jul-03-13 15:31:27 PDT      Buyer:
   _aaaglasss_
(http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11050.m66.l1181/7?euid=855a8660beaf4ab2a8c50d
c4b5677f54&loc=http://myworld.ebay.com/aaaglasss?ssPageName=
ADME:X:AAQ:US:1181)   (_357_
(http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11050.m66.l1183/7?euid=855a8660beaf4ab2a8c50d
c4b5677f54&loc=http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBa
yISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&&userid=aaaglasss&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1183) )
100.0% Positive Feedback  Member since Sep-30-01 in United States
Location: CA, United States  Listing  Status: This  message was sent while the
listing was  active.










     Marketplace Safety Tip
    *   _Keep your money  safe_
(http://pages.ebay.com/help/buy/payment.html)  - never pay for items with cash
or instant money transfer  services,
such as Western Union or MoneyGram. In the past some sellers  have exploited
these payment methods in order to defraud buyers, so  eBay has banned them
from the site.
    *   Received  a Second Chance Offer email? _Double check  that it's
genuine_ (http://pages.ebay.com/help/buy/personal-offer.html) : Second Chance
Offer emails come directly from  eBay and are shown in your My Messages.
    *   Trade  safely. Beware of anyone who contacts you about _buying  or
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(http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/rfe-spam-non-ebay-sale.html) . When you
trade outside of eBay, you're  not able to leave
feedback or take advantage of protection programs  and case resolution tools
available on eBay. _Report_
(http://ocs.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ContactUs&wftype=3002)   an
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    *   eBay  helps guard your privacy and online safety when you use our
messaging  tools. If you and the member you're contacting haven't bought or
sold  from each other recently, our tools may make both of your email
addresses anonymous.





____________________________________
     Email  reference id: [#855a8660beaf4ab2a8c50dc4b5677f54#]
Please don't  remove this number. eBay customer support may ask you for
this number,  if you should need  assistance.



____________________________________
     _Learn  More_
(http://pages.ebay.com/education/spooftutorial/index.html)  to protect
yourself from spoof (fake) emails.

Another  eBay member sent this email to your email address through the eBay
 platform. eBay takes no liability for the sending of this email or its
content.

Visit our _Privacy  Policy_
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Agreement_
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You can _report this  message_
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(spam/spoof) email.

Copyright ) 2013  eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and
brands are the  property of their respective owners. eBay and the eBay logo
are  trademarks of eBay Inc. eBay Inc. is located at 2145 Hamilton Avenue,
San Jose, CA 95125.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 09:45:07 2013
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 08:41:18 -0700
To: AAAGLASSS@aol.com,tigers@autox.team.net
From: "Norman C. Miller" <rootes1@earthlink.net>
References: <85683.70852dde.3f005739@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fwd:FRAUD SUNBEAM TIGER RHD Co...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

It doesn't help that the "Factory" mis-identifies the car as B947545 
when it's actually B947595 LRXFE.

Norm

At 08:28 AM 6/29/2013, AAAGLASSS@aol.com wrote:
>____________________________________
>  From: member@ebay.com
>Reply-to: aaaglasss@aol.com
>To:  aaaglasss@aol.com
>Sent: 6/29/2013 8:27:00 A.M. Pacific Daylight  Time
>Subj: Other: aaaglasss sent a message about Other Makes : SUNBEAM  TIGER
>RHD Convertible #111108853991
>
>
>
>
>
>
>          eBay  sent this message to ALAN FESTICH (aaaglasss).
>Your  registered name is included to show this message originated from
>eBay. _Learn  more_
>(http://pages.ebay.com/help/confidence/name-userid-emails.html) .
>
>
>     This  member has a question for you.        Do  not respond to the
>sender if this message requests that you complete the  transaction outside of
>eBay. This type of offer is against eBay policy,  may be fraudulent, and is
>not covered by buyer protection programs. _Learn  More_
>(http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/rfe-spam-non-ebay-sale.html)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>     Dear  tom_jinj,
>
>I'm in Wobern, Ma. where/when can I see  this?
>
>-  aaaglasss
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>(http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11050.m43.l1123/7?euid=855a8660beaf4ab2a8c50d
>c4b5677f54&loc=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIte
>m&item=111108853991&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123)      _Other  Makes :
>SUNBEAM TIGER RHD Convertible_
>(http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11050.m43.l1123/7?euid=855a8660beaf4ab2a8c50d
>c4b5677f54&loc=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor
>s/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111108853991&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1
>123)   Item Id: 111108853991  End time: Jul-03-13 15:31:27 PDT      Buyer:
>    _aaaglasss_
>(http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11050.m66.l1181/7?euid=855a8660beaf4ab2a8c50d
>c4b5677f54&loc=http://myworld.ebay.com/aaaglasss?ssPageName=
>ADME:X:AAQ:US:1181)   (_357_
>(http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11050.m66.l1183/7?euid=855a8660beaf4ab2a8c50d
>c4b5677f54&loc=http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBa
>yISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&&userid=aaaglasss&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1183) )
>100.0% Positive Feedback  Member since Sep-30-01 in United States
>Location: CA, United States  Listing  Status: This  message was sent while the
>listing was  active.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>      Marketplace Safety Tip
>     *   _Keep your money  safe_
>(http://pages.ebay.com/help/buy/payment.html)  - never pay for items with cash
>or instant money transfer  services,
>such as Western Union or MoneyGram. In the past some sellers  have exploited
>these payment methods in order to defraud buyers, so  eBay has banned them
>from the site.
>     *   Received  a Second Chance Offer email? _Double check  that it's
>genuine_ (http://pages.ebay.com/help/buy/personal-offer.html) : Second Chance
>Offer emails come directly from  eBay and are shown in your My Messages.
>     *   Trade  safely. Beware of anyone who contacts you about _buying  or
>selling outside of eBay_
>(http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/rfe-spam-non-ebay-sale.html) . When you
>trade outside of eBay, you're  not able to leave
>feedback or take advantage of protection programs  and case resolution tools
>available on eBay. _Report_
>(http://ocs.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ContactUs&wftype=3002)   an
>inappropriate email.
>     *   eBay  helps guard your privacy and online safety when you use our
>messaging  tools. If you and the member you're contacting haven't bought or
>sold  from each other recently, our tools may make both of your email
>addresses anonymous.
>
>
>
>
>
>____________________________________
>      Email  reference id: [#855a8660beaf4ab2a8c50dc4b5677f54#]
>Please don't  remove this number. eBay customer support may ask you for
>this number,  if you should need  assistance.
>
>
>
>____________________________________
>      _Learn  More_
>(http://pages.ebay.com/education/spooftutorial/index.html)  to protect
>yourself from spoof (fake) emails.
>
>Another  eBay member sent this email to your email address through the eBay
>  platform. eBay takes no liability for the sending of this email or its
>content.
>
>Visit our _Privacy  Policy_
>(http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/privacy-policy.html)  and _User
>Agreement_
>(http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/user-agreement.html)  if you have any
>questions.
>
>You can _report this  message_
>(http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/rfe-spam-ov.html)  as unsolicited
>(spam/spoof) email.
>
>Copyright ) 2013  eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and
>brands are the  property of their respective owners. eBay and the eBay logo
>are  trademarks of eBay Inc. eBay Inc. is located at 2145 Hamilton Avenue,
>San Jose, CA 95125.
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 10:16:40 2013
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From: "robert jaarsma" <64venezia@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 12:16:12 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac504/aWLQodXxVJTH2dxF7553N5kQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Tigers] Pulley Line-Up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks everyone for all this quick advise. Not sure yet what I'll do.

The first thing to do is swap the old pulley and fan onto the Powermaster.

I doubt if I gain enough movement, but it is the easiest to try.

I'll keep you posted. Great to have so many Tiger aficionados ! 

Robert
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d338c51d01fca130f
Subject: [Tigers] Castrol LMA
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,
 
I need some advice. I've been using Castrol LMA for years after  trying DOT 
5 for a couple of seasons. I wanted to buy some LMA but I tried the  local 
Auto Zone and the NAPA and no luck. Buying it on-line is OK but you get  
stuck with heavy shipping fees.
 
The Auto Zone had some STP 3-4 and straight 4 synthetic. Would this  be an 
OK mix or replacement for LMA? Or does anybody know of a national  chain 
that carries LMA so I can stick to that?  BTW, Auto Zone can't even  special 
order it for me! 
 
Any ideas?
 
Jim Armstrong
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 06:23:24 2013
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 08:16:47 -0400 (EDT)
To: Rollright@aol.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Castrol LMA
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.google.com/#gs_rn=17&gs_ri=psy-ab&cp=11&gs_id=16&xhr=t&q=castrol+
lma&es_nrs=true&pf=p&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&rlz=1C2AFAB_enUS486US522&o
q=castrol+lma&gs_l=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.48572450,d.cGE&fp=91775a5
ffeeeacff&biw=1034&bih=568
 
 
In a message dated 6/30/2013 5:09:49 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
Rollright@aol.com writes:

Hello,

I need some advice. I've been using Castrol LMA for  years after  trying 
DOT 
5 for a couple of seasons. I wanted to buy  some LMA but I tried the  local 
Auto Zone and the NAPA and no luck.  Buying it on-line is OK but you get  
stuck with heavy shipping  fees.

The Auto Zone had some STP 3-4 and straight 4 synthetic. Would  this  be an 
OK mix or replacement for LMA? Or does anybody know of a  national  chain 
that carries LMA so I can stick to that?  BTW,  Auto Zone can't even  
special 
order it for me! 

Any  ideas?

Jim  Armstrong
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 09:40:30 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 11:33:28 -0400 (EDT)
To: garywinblad@comcast.net, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Just got around to this email...guess I've been a little preoccupied!
 
On the subject of tires...and keeping in mind I live in CA and also am more 
 interested in performance than durability...
 
Regarding 15" wheels, Tom Kukla is successfully running 15X7" all around  
with no clearance issues. The fronts are 20mm offset. I don't believe he has  
done any body work and he didn't have any clearance issues. Can't say this 
would  be true of all cars...nothing really is, when it comes to Tigers, it  
seems.
 
The other option with 15's that makes sense is to run 15X6" all around with 
 one of the new gen street tires, like the Dunlop Star Spec II, BFG  Rival, 
etc. Given the need for a well supported sidewall with these  tires, seems 
a 195/50 would be as big as you'd want to go. 
 
As far as 13" choices go, the Toyo RA1 sized 205/60 is the only thing  I'd 
consider. Probably too aggressive for many, but it works well in the wet (if 
 you ever get caught out) and very well in the dry. 
 
Best of all worlds, for me (and pending fitment), would be a set of  15X7's 
mounted up with 205/50 BFG Rivals and my spare set of 13X6's mounted  with 
225/50 Hoosier A6 for autocross (the Hoosier works fine pinched on a  
smaller rim width) :-)
 
 
In a message dated 6/21/2013 3:00:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
garywinblad@comcast.net writes:

So now  that we know all about brake theory and upgrades...

What about the  current state of TIRES?

I was shocked to find that 13 inch tires are  all but done for.  All you 
can now get are
cheap "economy car" tires  or one single type of street legal race tire 
that costs
$600 per set.   Nothing in between.  And I was finally going to actually 
drive my  Tiger
some again...  and my 1993 tires are really bad...   sooo...

Mike Wood, did you solve the 15 inch wheel search?

Any  ideas?
Gary
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 12:19:32 2013
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From: "Clyde McLaughlin" <clydemclaughlin@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 14:19:06 -0400
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Subject: [Tigers] tires and wheels
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I run the Toyo RA 1,  205/60x13 and they work great and they look correct on
the car..beware buying new 15 inch wheels because you will find that they
are also going away in some  sizes.just tried to get some 225/50x15 and I
had only three choices,  that was a popular size not that long ago...also I
find it hard to believe you can't Castrol LMA fluid,  where do you Live???
If you are in the DC area I stock it at my shop..Just note:  if you want to
match ford blue,  try ATE Super Blu fluid and BMW antifreeze,  then you have
fluids that match the engine,  HA HA just thought..I could ship it for cost
if that's a help.I also stock ZZDP oil additive for flat tappet cams, Clyde
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 14:45:16 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 16:38:40 -0400
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Subject: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

 Tiger Trivia and facts plus I'm just curious

I noticed something interesting recently.

The stock Tiger distributor vacuum hard line only has a Rootes part number;
1224812.
There is no Ford part number listed.   This leads me to believe that Rootes
either made a new line or they modified the Ford part.

My theory is Rootes modified the Ford part.  The questions are did they and
by how much?
It's not impossible that Ford modified this part for Rootes but I would
expect a Ford part number attached to the part in that case.

Anyone have a known stock original Tiger engine distributor vacuum line?

Anyone have a stock Ford distributor vacuum line; I believe the C5ZZ part is
the one available now?

Anyone who went to England and the Archive - did you see this part drawing?

I did some very rough estimates of the difference between stock Ford and
Tiger pictures and found a Max difference of 1/2" shorter for the Tiger at
the distributor end.

I'm not sure the best way to measure this.   Maybe mark the middle of the
bend and use a wire form from the nut to the mark. (?)

Unfortunately I can not find where I squirreled away the hard line I did
have on my Tiger so I can't measure it.   I'll have to look deeper.

Ron Fraser
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 16:26:47 2013
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Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 16:24:41 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:20.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/20.0 SeaMonkey/2.17.1
To: Tigers List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Team.Net update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Finally!   Many years after the switch from majordomo to mailman, the 
web page

http://www.team.net/tn-mail.html

finally has current, useable information.  Imagine that!

It is just a start, though, there is SO much more to update on the 
site.  But with record
breaking heat here in Salt Lake City I'd rather be in my cool basement 
dungeon than out
in the very warm garage, perhaps updating Team.Net will be happening at 
more than a
glacial pace.

mjb.
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Ron, 


I measured it at exactly 25 inches. I used a piece of solid core electrical wire, molded to the vacuum line and periodically taped to it to hold in place, then detached it, straightened it, and measured. Hope that helps. (Pic upon request!) 


Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> 
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 3:38:40 PM 
Subject: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line 

Tiger Trivia and facts plus I'm just curious 

I noticed something interesting recently. 

The stock Tiger distributor vacuum hard line only has a Rootes part number; 
1224812. 
There is no Ford part number listed. This leads me to believe that Rootes 
either made a new line or they modified the Ford part. 

My theory is Rootes modified the Ford part. The questions are did they and 
by how much? 
It's not impossible that Ford modified this part for Rootes but I would 
expect a Ford part number attached to the part in that case. 

Anyone have a known stock original Tiger engine distributor vacuum line? 

Anyone have a stock Ford distributor vacuum line; I believe the C5ZZ part is 
the one available now? 

Anyone who went to England and the Archive - did you see this part drawing? 

I did some very rough estimates of the difference between stock Ford and 
Tiger pictures and found a Max difference of 1/2" shorter for the Tiger at 
the distributor end. 

I'm not sure the best way to measure this. Maybe mark the middle of the 
bend and use a wire form from the nut to the mark. (?) 

Unfortunately I can not find where I squirreled away the hard line I did 
have on my Tiger so I can't measure it. I'll have to look deeper. 

Ron Fraser 
_______________________________________________ 

tigers@autox.team.net 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett@comcast.net 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 17:19:48 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: <genepadgett@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 19:18:25 -0400
Thread-index: Ac515VOMn29cYGfTS0ujFyCu0ZCkIgAAgNkw
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Gene
    Any information helps.

You measured the full length of the vacuum line, correct and this was an
original Tiger part. (?)

My theory is that Rooted took up to 1/2" off the tube length at the
distributor.  This would pull the line back from the radiator hose.

Thanks
Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: genepadgett@comcast.net [mailto:genepadgett@comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 6:58 PM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line


Hi Ron,

I measured it at exactly 25 inches.  I used a piece of solid core electrical
wire, molded to the vacuum line and periodically taped to it to hold in
place, then detached it,  straightened it, and measured.  Hope that helps.
(Pic upon request!)

Gene


  _____

From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 3:38:40 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line

 Tiger Trivia and facts plus I'm just curious

I noticed something interesting recently.

The stock Tiger distributor vacuum hard line only has a Rootes part number;
1224812.
There is no Ford part number listed.   This leads me to believe that Rootes
either made a new line or they modified the Ford part.

My theory is Rootes modified the Ford part.  The questions are did they and
by how much?
It's not impossible that Ford modified this part for Rootes but I would
expect a Ford part number attached to the part in that case.

Anyone have a known stock original Tiger engine distributor vacuum line?

Anyone have a stock Ford distributor vacuum line; I believe the C5ZZ part is
the one available now?

Anyone who went to England and the Archive - did you see this part drawing?

I did some very rough estimates of the difference between stock Ford and
Tiger pictures and found a Max difference of 1/2" shorter for the Tiger at
the distributor end.

I'm not sure the best way to measure this.   Maybe mark the middle of the
bend and use a wire form from the nut to the mark. (?)

Unfortunately I can not find where I squirreled away the hard line I did
have on my Tiger so I can't measure it.   I'll have to look deeper.

Ron Fraser
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett@comcast.net



No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3345 / Virus Database: 3204/6447 - Release Date: 06/28/13
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 17:49:25 2013
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Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 23:43:31 +0000 (UTC)
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Ron, 


Yes, full length measured absolute tip to tip. Original line, off the car and retrieved from storage shelf for measurement. 


BTW, any idea where one can get a fitting for the end that goes into the canister on the original distributor? Pretty unique sealing tip on it. I did not not want to cut it off the original line. I had my distributor rebuilt and figured out a way to use a part of a compression coupler and a hand bent short piece of same sized line to make a 90 degree elbow to hook up a vacuum flexible line to my new carb. So I am good to go with what I have, but have always been curious about that orginal line- to- distributor hard line fitting. 


Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> 
To: genepadgett@comcast.net 
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 6:18:25 PM 
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line 

Message 
Gene 
Any information helps. 

You measured the full length of the vacuum line, correct and this was an original Tiger part. (?) 

My theory is that Rooted took up to 1/2" off the tube length at the distributor. This would pull the line back from the radiator hose. 

Thanks 
Ron 



-----Original Message----- 
From: genepadgett@comcast.net [mailto:genepadgett@comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 6:58 PM 
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com 
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line 


Hi Ron, 


I measured it at exactly 25 inches. I used a piece of solid core electrical wire, molded to the vacuum line and periodically taped to it to hold in place, then detached it, straightened it, and measured. Hope that helps. (Pic upon request!) 


Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> 
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 3:38:40 PM 
Subject: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line 

Tiger Trivia and facts plus I'm just curious 

I noticed something interesting recently. 

The stock Tiger distributor vacuum hard line only has a Rootes part number; 
1224812. 
There is no Ford part number listed. This leads me to believe that Rootes 
either made a new line or they modified the Ford part. 

My theory is Rootes modified the Ford part. The questions are did they and 
by how much? 
It's not impossible that Ford modified this part for Rootes but I would 
expect a Ford part number attached to the part in that case. 

Anyone have a known stock original Tiger engine distributor vacuum line? 

Anyone have a stock Ford distributor vacuum line; I believe the C5ZZ part is 
the one available now? 

Anyone who went to England and the Archive - did you see this part drawing? 

I did some very rough estimates of the difference between stock Ford and 
Tiger pictures and found a Max difference of 1/2" shorter for the Tiger at 
the distributor end. 

I'm not sure the best way to measure this. Maybe mark the middle of the 
bend and use a wire form from the nut to the mark. (?) 

Unfortunately I can not find where I squirreled away the hard line I did 
have on my Tiger so I can't measure it. I'll have to look deeper. 

Ron Fraser 
_______________________________________________ 

tigers@autox.team.net 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett@comcast.net 




No virus found in this message. 
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 2013.0.3345 / Virus Database: 3204/6447 - Release Date: 06/28/13 
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 18:35:02 2013
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 20:32:07 -0400 (EDT)
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, genepadgett@comcast.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

If a guy was to go into his wife's sewing box he would find a cloth  
measuring tape that makes measuring odd shapes a snap:-)
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 6/30/2013 7:19:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rfraser@bluefrog.com writes:

Gene
Any information helps.

You measured  the full length of the vacuum line, correct and this was an
original Tiger  part. (?)

My theory is that Rooted took up to 1/2" off the tube length  at the
distributor.  This would pull the line back from the radiator  hose.

Thanks
Ron

-----Original Message-----
From:  genepadgett@comcast.net [mailto:genepadgett@comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, June  30, 2013 6:58 PM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc:  tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum  line


Hi Ron,

I measured it at exactly 25 inches.  I  used a piece of solid core 
electrical
wire, molded to the vacuum line and  periodically taped to it to hold in
place, then detached it,   straightened it, and measured.  Hope that helps.
(Pic upon  request!)

Gene


_____

From: "Ron Fraser"  <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday,  June 30, 2013 3:38:40 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum  line

Tiger Trivia and facts plus I'm just curious

I noticed  something interesting recently.

The stock Tiger distributor vacuum hard  line only has a Rootes part number;
1224812.
There is no Ford part  number listed.   This leads me to believe that Rootes
either made  a new line or they modified the Ford part.

My theory is Rootes modified  the Ford part.  The questions are did they and
by how much?
It's  not impossible that Ford modified this part for Rootes but I would
expect a  Ford part number attached to the part in that case.

Anyone have a known  stock original Tiger engine distributor vacuum line?

Anyone have a  stock Ford distributor vacuum line; I believe the C5ZZ part 
is
the one  available now?

Anyone who went to England and the Archive - did you see  this part drawing?

I did some very rough estimates of the difference  between stock Ford and
Tiger pictures and found a Max difference of 1/2"  shorter for the Tiger at
the distributor end.

I'm not sure the best  way to measure this.   Maybe mark the middle of the
bend and use  a wire form from the nut to the mark. (?)

Unfortunately I can not find  where I squirreled away the hard line I did
have on my Tiger so I can't  measure it.   I'll have to look deeper.

Ron  Fraser
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett@comcast.net



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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version:  2013.0.3345 / Virus Database: 3204/6447 - Release Date:  06/28/13
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 18:50:21 2013
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line
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I tried to do it first using 1/2 inch wide masking tape to follow the twists and turns, much like a cloth measuring tape with the further advantage of adhesive to hold it in place. With all the twists, turns and bends in this line, I assure you the ability to form the wire to the line, periodically taping it in place worked much better, with no slippage from the starting end. 


Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: CoolVT@aol.com 
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com, genepadgett@comcast.net 
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:32:07 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line 


If a guy was to go into his wife's sewing box he would find a cloth measuring tape that makes measuring odd shapes a snap:-) 
Mark L 


In a message dated 6/30/2013 7:19:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rfraser@bluefrog.com writes: 

Gene 
Any information helps. 

You measured the full length of the vacuum line, correct and this was an 
original Tiger part. (?) 

My theory is that Rooted took up to 1/2" off the tube length at the 
distributor. This would pull the line back from the radiator hose. 

Thanks 
Ron 

-----Original Message----- 
From: genepadgett@comcast.net [mailto:genepadgett@comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 6:58 PM 
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com 
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line 


Hi Ron, 

I measured it at exactly 25 inches. I used a piece of solid core electrical 
wire, molded to the vacuum line and periodically taped to it to hold in 
place, then detached it, straightened it, and measured. Hope that helps. 
(Pic upon request!) 

Gene 


_____ 

From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> 
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 3:38:40 PM 
Subject: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line 

Tiger Trivia and facts plus I'm just curious 

I noticed something interesting recently. 

The stock Tiger distributor vacuum hard line only has a Rootes part number; 
1224812. 
There is no Ford part number listed. This leads me to believe that Rootes 
either made a new line or they modified the Ford part. 

My theory is Rootes modified the Ford part. The questions are did they and 
by how much? 
It's not impossible that Ford modified this part for Rootes but I would 
expect a Ford part number attached to the part in that case. 

Anyone have a known stock original Tiger engine distributor vacuum line? 

Anyone have a stock Ford distributor vacuum line; I believe the C5ZZ part is 
the one available now? 

Anyone who went to England and the Archive - did you see this part drawing? 

I did some very rough estimates of the difference between stock Ford and 
Tiger pictures and found a Max difference of 1/2" shorter for the Tiger at 
the distributor end. 

I'm not sure the best way to measure this. Maybe mark the middle of the 
bend and use a wire form from the nut to the mark. (?) 

Unfortunately I can not find where I squirreled away the hard line I did 
have on my Tiger so I can't measure it. I'll have to look deeper. 

Ron Fraser 
_______________________________________________ 

tigers@autox.team.net 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett@comcast.net 



No virus found in this message. 
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 2013.0.3345 / Virus Database: 3204/6447 - Release Date: 06/28/13 
_______________________________________________ 

tigers@autox.team.net 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 19:38:12 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: <genepadgett@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 21:37:24 -0400
Thread-index: Ac5166ELgmX7mbpbSTCNiL6e4riM9QADhFTQ
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank Gene
 
    I was looking at the end fittings.  I could not find the Ford part
number but I did find a description.
Maybe someone on the List knows the Ford part number for this fitting.
 
The fitting are a Brass Fitting - Threaded Sleeve - Nut.
 
I have an OLD Weatherhead catalog - 3/16 tube - threaded sleeve nut -
6100X3.
 
A quick Google search will give you several sources - I saw one that showed
$.90 per part and I'm sure there are better prices.
 
I have a Parts + shop in my area that I think has those but not sure.  They
had the 5/16 fuel line to carb fitting so I think they might carry the nut
too.
 
Hopefully someone local has them so you don't have to pay huge shipping
costs.
 
Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: genepadgett@comcast.net [mailto:genepadgett@comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:44 PM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line


Hi Ron, 

Yes, full length measured absolute tip to tip.  Original line, off the car
and retrieved from storage shelf for measurement.

BTW, any idea where one can get a fitting for the end that goes into the
canister on the original distributor?  Pretty unique sealing tip on it.  I
did not not want to cut it off the original line.  I had my distributor
rebuilt and figured out a way to use a part of a compression coupler and a
hand bent short piece of same sized line to make a 90 degree elbow to hook
up a vacuum flexible line to my new carb.  So I am good to go with what I
have, but have always been curious about that orginal line- to- distributor
hard line fitting.

Gene 
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 02:12:55 +0000 (UTC)
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line
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Hi Ron, 


Thanks very much. I greatly appreciate the info. I had given up on find these! 


Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> 
To: genepadgett@comcast.net 
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 8:37:24 PM 
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line 

Message 
Thank Gene 

I was looking at the end fittings. I could not find the Ford part number but I did find a description. 
Maybe someone on the List knows the Ford part number for this fitting. 

The fitting are a Brass Fitting - Threaded Sleeve - Nut. 

I have an OLD Weatherhead catalog - 3/16 tube - threaded sleeve nut - 6100X3. 

A quick Google search will give you several sources - I saw one that showed $.90 per part and I'm sure there are better prices. 

I have a Parts + shop in my area that I think has those but not sure. They had the 5/16 fuel line to carb fitting so I think they might carry the nut too. 

Hopefully someone local has them so you don't have to pay huge shipping costs. 

Ron Fraser 



-----Original Message----- 
From: genepadgett@comcast.net [mailto:genepadgett@comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:44 PM 
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com 
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line 


Hi Ron, 


Yes, full length measured absolute tip to tip. Original line, off the car and retrieved from storage shelf for measurement. 


BTW, any idea where one can get a fitting for the end that goes into the canister on the original distributor? Pretty unique sealing tip on it. I did not not want to cut it off the original line. I had my distributor rebuilt and figured out a way to use a part of a compression coupler and a hand bent short piece of same sized line to make a 90 degree elbow to hook up a vacuum flexible line to my new carb. So I am good to go with what I have, but have always been curious about that orginal line- to- distributor hard line fitting. 


Gene 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 20:36:50 2013
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References: <51D0B029.2000403@bradakis.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 22:35:40 -0400
From: Jeffery Randall <jefferyrandall@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: Tigers List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Team.Net update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank You Mark,
  Jeff


On Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 6:24 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> Finally!   Many years after the switch from majordomo to mailman, the web
> page
>
> http://www.team.net/tn-mail.**html <http://www.team.net/tn-mail.html>
>
> finally has current, useable information.  Imagine that!
>
> It is just a start, though, there is SO much more to update on the site.
>  But with record
> breaking heat here in Salt Lake City I'd rather be in my cool basement
> dungeon than out
> in the very warm garage, perhaps updating Team.Net will be happening at
> more than a
> glacial pace.
>
> mjb.
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/tigers/jefferyrandall@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall@gmail.com>
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 03:13:03 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: genepadgett@comcast.net
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Gene.
On the original distributor, the entire fitting you need just unscrews.
At least in about 1992 when I did my rebuild, I was able to get a new diaphram
that allowed
it to screw in.  When you unscrew it, inside is a 'slug' that allows you to
limit the vacuum
advance.. was definitely needed too.
Gary

    ----- Original Message -----  From: genepadgett@comcast.net  To:
rfraser@bluefrog.com  Cc: tigers@autox.team.net  Sent: Mon, 01 Jul 2013
02:12:55 -0000 (UTC)  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line    Hi Ron,
Thanks very much. I greatly appreciate the info. I had given up on find these!
Gene     ----- Original Message -----  From: "Ron Fraser"    To:
genepadgett@comcast.net   Cc: tigers@autox.team.net   Sent: Sunday, June 30,
2013 8:37:24 PM   Subject: RE: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line     Message
Thank Gene     I was looking at the end fittings. I could not find the Ford
part number but I did find a description.   Maybe someone on the List knows
the Ford part number for this fitting.     The fitting are a Brass Fitting -
Threaded Sleeve - Nut.     I have an OLD Weatherhead catalog - 3/16 tube -
threaded sleeve nut - 6100X3.     A quick Google search will give you several
sources - I saw one that showed $.90 per part and I'm sure there are better
prices.     I have a Parts + shop in my area that I think has those but not
sure. They had the 5/16 fuel line to carb fitting so I think they might carry
the nut too.     Hopefully someone local has them so you don't have to pay
huge shipping costs.     Ron Fraser         -----Original Message-----   From:
genepadgett@comcast.net [mailto:genepadgett@comcast.net]   Sent: Sunday, June
30, 2013 7:44 PM   To: rfraser@bluefrog.com   Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line       Hi Ron,       Yes, full
length measured absolute tip to tip. Original line, off the car and retrieved
from storage shelf for measurement.       BTW, any idea where one can get a
fitting for the end that goes into the canister on the original distributor?
Pretty unique sealing tip on it. I did not not want to cut it off the original
line. I had my distributor rebuilt and figured out a way to use a part of a
compression coupler and a hand bent short piece of same sized line to make a
90 degree elbow to hook up a vacuum flexible line to my new carb. So I am good
to go with what I have, but have always been curious about that orginal line-
to- distributor hard line fitting.       Gene
_______________________________________________    tigers@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 03:15:29 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Oops.. disregard that last post..
you want to adapt to rubber line.... sorry.
Gary
    ----- Original Message -----  From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: genepadgett@comcast.net  Cc: tigers@autox.team.net  Sent: Mon, 01 Jul 2013
03:13:03 -0000 (UTC)  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line    Gene.
On the original distributor, the entire fitting you need just unscrews.  At
least in about 1992 when I did my rebuild, I was able to get a new diaphram
that allowed  it to screw in.  When you unscrew it, inside is a 'slug' that
allows you to  limit the vacuum  advance.. was definitely needed too.  Gary
----- Original Message -----  From: genepadgett@comcast.net  To:
rfraser@bluefrog.com  Cc: tigers@autox.team.net  Sent: Mon, 01 Jul 2013
02:12:55 -0000 (UTC)  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line    Hi Ron,
Thanks very much. I greatly appreciate the info. I had given up on find these!
Gene     ----- Original Message -----  From: "Ron Fraser"    To:
genepadgett@comcast.net   Cc: tigers@autox.team.net   Sent: Sunday, June 30,
2013 8:37:24 PM   Subject: RE: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line     Message
Thank Gene     I was looking at the end fittings. I could not find the Ford
part number but I did find a description.   Maybe someone on the List knows
the Ford part number for this fitting.     The fitting are a Brass Fitting -
Threaded Sleeve - Nut.     I have an OLD Weatherhead catalog - 3/16 tube -
threaded sleeve nut - 6100X3.     A quick Google search will give you several
sources - I saw one that showed $.90 per part and I'm sure there are better
prices.     I have a Parts + shop in my area that I think has those but not
sure. They had the 5/16 fuel line to carb fitting so I think they might carry
the nut too.     Hopefully someone local has them so you don't have to pay
huge shipping costs.     Ron Fraser         -----Original Message-----   From:
genepadgett@comcast.net [mailto:genepadgett@comcast.net]   Sent: Sunday, June
30, 2013 7:44 PM   To: rfraser@bluefrog.com   Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Distributor vacuum line       Hi Ron,       Yes, full
length measured absolute tip to tip. Original line, off the car and retrieved
from storage shelf for measurement.       BTW, any idea where one can get a
fitting for the end that goes into the canister on the original distributor?
Pretty unique sealing tip on it. I did not not want to cut it off the original
line. I had my distributor rebuilt and figured out a way to use a part of a
compression coupler and a hand bent short piece of same sized line to make a
90 degree elbow to hook up a vacuum flexible line to my new carb. So I am good
to go with what I have, but have always been curious about that orginal line-
to- distributor hard line fitting.       Gene
_______________________________________________    tigers@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net
_______________________________________________    tigers@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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