From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  1 15:31:43 2013
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From: "65 Sunbeam Tiger" <65sunbeamtiger@comcast.net>
To: "Tiger E-Mail List" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 14:31:30 -0700
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Subject: [Tigers] Great TAC article and a NW TAC event
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

There is an excellent 2 page color article on the TAC program in the August
2013 issue of Sports Car Market, as well as Tigers in general (Checking a
Tigers Stripes - pg 42-43) that you may want to pickup.  Paul Sheahan is
quoted throughout and the article is very factual and well written.

 

Secondly, we will be having a TAC event at the All British Field Meet (ABFM)
at Portland (Oregon) International Raceway on Saturday, August 31st.  If you
haven't attended an ABFM event in Portland, expect 500 + British vehicles of
every marque and a weekend of vintage racing.  No need to preregister for a
TAC - just bring your car by the event on Saturday, but you can contact me
directly on my cell (503) 830-3811 with any specific questions.

 

Thanks,

 

Doug Babcock

Senior TAC Inspector
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  1 16:16:39 2013
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 18:13:19 -0400
From: Mark Rense <mark44124@gmail.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Dayton Brit Car Show
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Anyone heading the show on Saturday? My girlfriend and I are planning to
drive both Tigers down for the weekend. There will be a gathering at Doug
Jennings shop afterwards.
Bugs
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  1 20:57:20 2013
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From: "Stu Brennan" <stubrennan@comcast.net>
To: "Tiger Net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 22:57:03 -0400
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Subject: [Tigers] Club Membership
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I received my monthly TE/AE membership report tonight, and it got me to 
thinking.  The headcount is about 70% of what it was just a few years, maybe 
a decade, back.  There aren't fewer Sunbeams around, in fact, there could be 
more, with cars being dragged out of barns and restored faster than folks 
are trashing them.

I can guess at some of the causes, networks such as this being one.  But I'm 
curious.  Are the other Sunbeam clubs, or car clubs in general, seeing 
similar membership drops?  Have any other clubs adopted successful 
strategies to remain relevant in today's world?

Comments welcome.

Stu 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  1 21:55:13 2013
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	Thu, 01 Aug 2013 22:45:33 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Buck Trippel" <BuckTrippel@Verizon.net>
To: "'Stu Brennan'" <stubrennan@comcast.net>, "'Tiger Net'"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <DB66228CC36D418CAB58A54FBA0357D5@sbrennanPC>
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2013 20:45:29 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Club Membership
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CAT membership "bottomed" a year or two ago but  has been climbing since  to
over 600 members now. 

Buck Trippel

  

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Stu Brennan
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 7:57 PM
To: Tiger Net
Subject: [Tigers] Club Membership

I received my monthly TE/AE membership report tonight, and it got me to
thinking.  The headcount is about 70% of what it was just a few years, maybe
a decade, back.  There aren't fewer Sunbeams around, in fact, there could be
more, with cars being dragged out of barns and restored faster than folks
are trashing them.

I can guess at some of the causes, networks such as this being one.  But I'm
curious.  Are the other Sunbeam clubs, or car clubs in general, seeing
similar membership drops?  Have any other clubs adopted successful
strategies to remain relevant in today's world?

Comments welcome.

Stu
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 00:13:46 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 23:13:31 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Pertronix / MSD Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Not a Tiger application in my case - but..., I know  quite a few of the Tiger
folks are running the Pertronix ignition module ( the original version in my
case). Are any of you running the MSD Blaster 2 coil (8203)?  I am not
planning to use the MSD box, only the Pertronix and the MSD coil.  I've read
on the internet where some have no issues at all. However, there are those who
say that Pertonix told them NOT to use the MSD coil.

So, it is a bit confusing. If you have had success with the combination I'm
planning, I'd like to hear from you.  Also, I'd like to know if you use a
ballast resistor.  MSD says the resistor, .8 ohms, is only needed for points.

Thanks, Tom
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 06:53:53 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Thomas Witt'" <atwittsend@verizon.net>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 08:45:54 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6QEKCujn/U4kEFSXa05MkFbO6INwAM+qMg
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pertronix / MSD Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom
	I think you need to talk to Pertronix about your situation or go to
their web site to see what they say.  You may also want to check the MSD web
site to see if they show your combination and how to install it correctly.

	Some of this is determined by which Pertronix module you are going
to use.  I have a Pertronix I unit with a ballast resistor. This is the way
the Pertronix installation instructions show to install this unit.  The
instructions also state that the voltage to the Pertronix I unit can not be
less than 6V with the ballast resistor.

	I believe the Pertonix II and III modules require a constant 12V to
operate correctly; no ballast resistor.  This is where you need the Pertonix
instructions to confirm that statement.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Witt
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2013 2:14 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Pertronix / MSD Coil


Not a Tiger application in my case - but..., I know  quite a few of the
Tiger folks are running the Pertronix ignition module ( the original version
in my case). Are any of you running the MSD Blaster 2 coil (8203)?  I am not
planning to use the MSD box, only the Pertronix and the MSD coil.  I've read
on the internet where some have no issues at all. However, there are those
who say that Pertonix told them NOT to use the MSD coil.

So, it is a bit confusing. If you have had success with the combination I'm
planning, I'd like to hear from you.  Also, I'd like to know if you use a
ballast resistor.  MSD says the resistor, .8 ohms, is only needed for
points.

Thanks, Tom
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 07:55:34 2013
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	UTC
User-Agent: Microsoft-MacOutlook/14.3.6.130613
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 09:45:09 -0400
From: Don Antilla <fast427@sbcglobal.net>
To: <rfraser@bluefrog.com>, 'Thomas Witt' <atwittsend@verizon.net>,
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Pertronix / MSD Coil
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pertronix / MSD Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Tiger Guys:
 I talked with Pertronix Tech Support about a year ago re the installation
requirements for the Ignitor 2. I can confirm Ron's statement that
Pertronix strongly advises that you provide 12 volts to the module and to
not run the 12 volts through a ballast resistor. That made sense to me.

Also, if any enthusiasts plan to use the Ignitor 2, be aware it has a more
sophisticated microcontroller than the older Pertronix modules, and
requires that you use radio resistance spark plug wires and specifically
NOT to use copper core unsuppressed plug wires. I asked the Tech guy the
rationale for this and he said it reduces the possibility of
electromagnetic interference getting into the Pertronix module. The Tech
guy said it could cause bad performance and possibly damage the Ignitor 2
module.
I think this is good guidance to follow and I installed black Taylor plug
wires with what look like factory spark plug boots with 135 degree angles
on the boots to clear the exhaust system better. The Taylor rep was very
helpful in setting up black 600 degree wires with the 135 boots.
Note: You should inspect your cars and decide if you want straight/ or 135
degree/ or 90 degree boots and ask Taylor to fabricate a set to your
needs. Taylor was reasonable in their pricing to me to do this.

I did not discuss the Blaster coil so I can't add any insight re that
particular coil.
I CAN say that you need to be careful where you buy a new coil; there have
been verified reports of overseas coils failing early in their life. Try
top find a coil made in the US if practical.
I had that exact problem with an overseas coil that went intermittent
after 5 to 15 minutes of engine operation. Took weeks to isolate the cause
of the engine stopping. I had to do a lot of troubleshooting, including
mounting a second coil on the intake and when the engine stopped, I
swapped to the original coil.
Problem gone- engine ran well so I kept the original FoMoCo coil in the
car (a Series 200 Griffith).
Don Antilla






On 8/3/13 8:45 AM, "Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:

>Tom
>	I think you need to talk to Pertronix about your situation or go to
>their web site to see what they say.  You may also want to check the MSD
>web
>site to see if they show your combination and how to install it correctly.
>
>	Some of this is determined by which Pertronix module you are going
>to use.  I have a Pertronix I unit with a ballast resistor. This is the
>way
>the Pertronix installation instructions show to install this unit.  The
>instructions also state that the voltage to the Pertronix I unit can not
>be
>less than 6V with the ballast resistor.
>
>	I believe the Pertonix II and III modules require a constant 12V to
>operate correctly; no ballast resistor.  This is where you need the
>Pertonix
>instructions to confirm that statement.
>
>Ron Fraser
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>On Behalf Of Thomas Witt
>Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2013 2:14 AM
>To: tigers@autox.team.net
>Subject: [Tigers] Pertronix / MSD Coil
>
>
>Not a Tiger application in my case - but..., I know  quite a few of the
>Tiger folks are running the Pertronix ignition module ( the original
>version
>in my case). Are any of you running the MSD Blaster 2 coil (8203)?  I am
>not
>planning to use the MSD box, only the Pertronix and the MSD coil.  I've
>read
>on the internet where some have no issues at all. However, there are those
>who say that Pertonix told them NOT to use the MSD coil.
>
>So, it is a bit confusing. If you have had success with the combination
>I'm
>planning, I'd like to hear from you.  Also, I'd like to know if you use a
>ballast resistor.  MSD says the resistor, .8 ohms, is only needed for
>points.
>
>Thanks, Tom
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 12:03:26 2013
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References: <3006D8E78E2742ABB46EC632568F05E1@optiplex3301>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 13:56:53 -0400
From: Mark Rense <mark44124@gmail.com>
To: Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pertronix / MSD Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I guess my first question is why mix and match? Pertronix makes coils for
both the original and higher output coils for the II and III. I have gone
to their III system on several cars, they are more robust than the original
and include a nice rev limiter.

Run it straight with no ballast resistor.
On Saturday, August 3, 2013, Thomas Witt wrote:

> Not a Tiger application in my case - but..., I know  quite a few of the
> Tiger
> folks are running the Pertronix ignition module ( the original version in
> my
> case). Are any of you running the MSD Blaster 2 coil (8203)?  I am not
> planning to use the MSD box, only the Pertronix and the MSD coil.  I've
> read
> on the internet where some have no issues at all. However, there are those
> who
> say that Pertonix told them NOT to use the MSD coil.
>
> So, it is a bit confusing. If you have had success with the combination I'm
> planning, I'd like to hear from you.  Also, I'd like to know if you use a
> ballast resistor.  MSD says the resistor, .8 ohms, is only needed for
> points.
>
> Thanks, Tom
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mark44124@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 13:20:11 2013
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From: "Buck Trippel" <BuckTrippel@Verizon.net>
To: "'Mark Rense'" <mark44124@gmail.com>, "'Thomas Witt'"
	<atwittsend@verizon.net>
References: <3006D8E78E2742ABB46EC632568F05E1@optiplex3301>
	<CA+8dKTuAN8a9CTG4nTb=D7s1epJ2ap6RJz5u6Y7VrxL+zqpJaA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 12:10:19 -0700
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQG8pS9nUpm5ukk8yjHJpJg1qIdBagJN5tOhmZU+b2A=
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pertronix / MSD Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Tom,

Mark makes a good point. Each Pertronix coil is optimized to work with the
corresponding Ignitor. Off the top of my head, the Pertronix 1 needs a coil
with over 3 ohms resistance. The 2 needs 0.6 ohms while the 3 needs 0.3
ohms. The lower resistance allows more spark energy but if you try to mix
and match you could exceed the electrical capacity of the Ignitor unit and
fry it. I've temporarily used the MSD coil with the Pertronix 1 but I had to
use the ballast resistor in series to get the required resistance.  If you
follow Mark's advice and use the matching coil then you would bypass the
ballast resistor completely. 

If you have a need for the power of the 3 (or just want the built in rev
limiter) you should also consider using a relay.

Buck Trippel

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Rense
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2013 10:57 AM
To: Thomas Witt
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pertronix / MSD Coil

I guess my first question is why mix and match? Pertronix makes coils for
both the original and higher output coils for the II and III. I have gone to
their III system on several cars, they are more robust than the original and
include a nice rev limiter.


Run it straight with no ballast resistor.
On Saturday, August 3, 2013, Thomas Witt wrote:

> Not a Tiger application in my case - but..., I know  quite a few of 
> the Tiger folks are running the Pertronix ignition module ( the 
> original version in my case). Are any of you running the MSD Blaster 2 
> coil (8203)?  I am not planning to use the MSD box, only the Pertronix 
> and the MSD coil.  I've read on the internet where some have no issues 
> at all. However, there are those who say that Pertonix told them NOT 
> to use the MSD coil.
>
> So, it is a bit confusing. If you have had success with the 
> combination I'm planning, I'd like to hear from you.  Also, I'd like 
> to know if you use a ballast resistor.  MSD says the resistor, .8 
> ohms, is only needed for points.
>
> Thanks, Tom
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mark44124@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 13:23:38 2013
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From: "Jerry Mo Christopherson" <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>
To: "'Thomas Witt'" <atwittsend@verizon.net>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <3006D8E78E2742ABB46EC632568F05E1@optiplex3301>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 14:20:36 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pertronix / MSD Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The Pertronix I requires 1.5 ohms coil, whereas the MSD coil is .7 ohms.  It
might be best to run the Pertronix coil that is 1.5 ohms.   Much more likely
to NOT get stuck out somewhere you don't want to be.

Jerry Christopherson
9473187

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Witt
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2013 1:14 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Pertronix / MSD Coil

Not a Tiger application in my case - but..., I know  quite a few of the
Tiger folks are running the Pertronix ignition module ( the original version
in my case). Are any of you running the MSD Blaster 2 coil (8203)?  I am not
planning to use the MSD box, only the Pertronix and the MSD coil.  I've read
on the internet where some have no issues at all. However, there are those
who say that Pertonix told them NOT to use the MSD coil.

So, it is a bit confusing. If you have had success with the combination I'm
planning, I'd like to hear from you.  Also, I'd like to know if you use a
ballast resistor.  MSD says the resistor, .8 ohms, is only needed for
points.

Thanks, Tom
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 16:13:06 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <33A89F37D9A04E07873040F979BA6612@ronpc1>
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 15:05:47 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Pertronix / MSD Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you everyone for your replies. To answer a few questions:

Why mix parts? -  I have a Pertronix I module because  it came with a 
rebuilt distributor I bought off of Ebay. It works fine with the stock coil. 
The MSD coil I got the other day at Pick A Part.  My apology if my frugality 
caused confusion.  Income has been cut over 50% - and not going to get any 
better.

What does theMSD site say? -  From the MSD site; "Improved output coil for 
electronic, Point, Blaster or MSD 5, 6, and 7 Series Ignitions (ballast 
resistor required for points)"  It basically stated the coil can be used 
with anything (ballast resistor with points). And from what I read on the 
internet others sucsessfully have.

Yes, I was aware that the Pertronix itself runs off of 12 volt and not to 
connect it to a "resistance" circuit.

 My concern rose when I read that someone talked to Pertronix about using 
the MSD coil.  Pertronix told them not to do it. Others (that sucsessfully 
used the Pertronix/MSD set-up) said Pertronix was just trying to sell 
"their" coil.  Thus, I was looking for trusted confirmation if anyone on the 
Tiger list had run the Pertronix I and the MSD 8203 coil (with or without a 
resistor).

Tom 
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2013 14:17:24 -0600
From: Ken Tisdale <ktisdale@ix.netcom.com>
Organization: RMVR
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Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Brake light switch...
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Mine has failed. Got an Intermotor unit but it will not thread 
correctly. anyone know if our Tiger units cross to a Lucas SPB401?
Ken

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of ktisdale.vcf]
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Sensitivity: Normal
To: ktisdale@ix.netcom.com,tigers@autox.team.net
From: jay.laifman@gmail.com
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 05:02:26 +0000
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Brake light switch...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Useless. I've tried them all, even a really nice NOS one. Give up on it and install a manual switch on the pedal arm. 

Usually, people who think theirs is still good hasn't had a truck with chrome grille and bumper behind them lately. 


Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Tisdale <ktisdale@ix.netcom.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Brake light switch...

Mine has failed. Got an Intermotor unit but it will not thread 
correctly. anyone know if our Tiger units cross to a Lucas SPB401?
Ken

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of ktisdale.vcf]
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Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2013 07:08:27 -0400
From: Don Antilla <fast427@sbcglobal.net>
To: <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, <ktisdale@ix.netcom.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tiger Brake light switch...
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Brake light switch...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I had the same problem with the unreliable brake light hydraulic switch on
my Griffith.
Rather than take the risk of opening up the newly plumbed junction
assembly that took me a lot of hours to build, I fabricated the bracket in
the attached photo and in the case of the Griffith, I hid it inside my
pedal box.
I used a common GM plunger switch so it would be easy to purchase in the
future; could have used a Ford plunger switch, but the GM part was in my
drawer and it fit well.
Don A


On 8/5/13 1:02 AM, "jay.laifman@gmail.com" <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

>Useless. I've tried them all, even a really nice NOS one. Give up on it
>and install a manual switch on the pedal arm.
>
>Usually, people who think theirs is still good hasn't had a truck with
>chrome grille and bumper behind them lately.
>
>
>Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ken Tisdale <ktisdale@ix.netcom.com>
>Sender:: Sun, 04 Aug 2013 14:17:24
>To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Brake light switch...
>
>Mine has failed. Got an Intermotor unit but it will not thread
>correctly. anyone know if our Tiger units cross to a Lucas SPB401?
>Ken
>
>[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
>of ktisdale.vcf]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Brake Switch 2.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Brake Switch installed.jpg]
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 08:03:49 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: <ktisdale@ix.netcom.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 08:23:56 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6RT87mVBAqI4fvTEyMk1mTmd+GnwAhmTMg
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	definitions=2013-08-05_03:2013-08-05,2013-08-05,1970-01-01
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Brake light switch...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Tim
	The Alpine Parts List shows the Lucas part # 34619.

http://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/lucas-spb401-34446-34619-brake-light-s
witch-38-x-24-unf-dac3719-1187-p.asp

This web site indicates that the SPB 401 supersedes the 34619 part.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ken Tisdale
Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2013 4:17 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Brake light switch...


Mine has failed. Got an Intermotor unit but it will not thread
correctly. anyone know if our Tiger units cross to a Lucas SPB401? Ken

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
ktisdale.vcf] _______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 07:42:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger in Ottawa for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

On this mornings Hemmings blog is a Tiger 3820 for sale, asking $75K. I
believe it's # 2377, restored around 2003, red exterior with black int, in
Ottawa, Ontario, CAN, I've no connection to the seller.       www.hemmings.com
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 07:46:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger - need link to Dragons Tail United tour
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,
I need the link, issued last fall, to the Dragons Tail United tour in Tennessee last year. It was in my old email program that went away in June.
Thanks, all
Rande Bellman
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 08:29:43 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I drove the Tiger to work today.  It was one of those drives when you turn
off the key, the purr stops, giving way to the din of silence, and all you
want to do turn that key again and head right back out.

I drove it in honor of my dad's birthday today.  But, to be honest, just
about any excuse will usually do.  :-)

Thanks again to all who have contributed to keeping her back on the road
... I'll be back at you for hard hot starting issues later...

Jay
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	smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com with SMTP; 05 Aug 2013 10:10:50 -0700 PDT
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2013 12:11:05 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

hard starting when hot equals timing in my past but it will be great reading others thoughts 
HBD to my buddy who was smiling when the cat started purring ....gone but never forgotten! !!!
Sent from Huawei Mobile

Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

>I drove the Tiger to work today.  It was one of those drives when you turn
>off the key, the purr stops, giving way to the din of silence, and all you
>want to do turn that key again and head right back out.
>
>I drove it in honor of my dad's birthday today.  But, to be honest, just
>about any excuse will usually do.  :-)
>
>Thanks again to all who have contributed to keeping her back on the road
>... I'll be back at you for hard hot starting issues later...
>
>Jay
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 12:38:46 2013
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 14:28:59 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay,  We miss Steve also. To start the ball rolling, Timing. First
question: Points or electronic ignition. Second question: any signs of
vapor lock... ever?

Tom
'67 Mark 2



On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 1:11 PM, TtT <achd73@yahoo.com> wrote:

> hard starting when hot equals timing in my past but it will be great
> reading others thoughts
> HBD to my buddy who was smiling when the cat started purring ....gone but
> never forgotten! !!!
> Sent from Huawei Mobile
>
> Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >I drove the Tiger to work today.  It was one of those drives when you turn
> >off the key, the purr stops, giving way to the din of silence, and all you
> >want to do turn that key again and head right back out.
> >
> >I drove it in honor of my dad's birthday today.  But, to be honest, just
> >about any excuse will usually do.  :-)
> >
> >Thanks again to all who have contributed to keeping her back on the road
> >... I'll be back at you for hard hot starting issues later...
> >
> >Jay
> >_______________________________________________
> >
> >tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 12:39:08 2013
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	<CAE3_YO-fBMA74o13vdUfM09_Wp2u76vRfONvK8YYT-uBDDopwQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 14:32:12 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, that was Tony's call, not mine.

Tom


On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 2:28 PM, Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com> wrote:

> Jay,  We miss Steve also. To start the ball rolling, Timing. First
> question: Points or electronic ignition. Second question: any signs of
> vapor lock... ever?
>
> Tom
> '67 Mark 2
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 1:11 PM, TtT <achd73@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> hard starting when hot equals timing in my past but it will be great
>> reading others thoughts
>> HBD to my buddy who was smiling when the cat started purring ....gone but
>> never forgotten! !!!
>> Sent from Huawei Mobile
>>
>> Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> >I drove the Tiger to work today.  It was one of those drives when you
>> turn
>> >off the key, the purr stops, giving way to the din of silence, and all
>> you
>> >want to do turn that key again and head right back out.
>> >
>> >I drove it in honor of my dad's birthday today.  But, to be honest, just
>> >about any excuse will usually do.  :-)
>> >
>> >Thanks again to all who have contributed to keeping her back on the road
>> >... I'll be back at you for hard hot starting issues later...
>> >
>> >Jay
>> >_______________________________________________
>> >
>> >tigers@autox.team.net
>> >
>> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 14:26:31 2013
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 20:20:29 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay, did you say you had hard hot starting or were you being faceteus(sp?)??
If you do..
I just fixed mine by noticing that the voltage regulator was very low
(voltage)
and re-adjusted it.  It now starts like never before.  I was ready to buy a
new battery
since its really old, but didn't need it.
Gary
    ----- Original Message -----  From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>  Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>  Sent:
Mon, 05 Aug 2013 18:28:59 -0000 (UTC)  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Jay,  We miss Steve also. To start the ball rolling, Timing. First  question:
Points or electronic ignition. Second question: any signs of  vapor lock...
ever?    Tom  '67 Mark 2        On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 1:11 PM, TtT  wrote:
> hard starting when hot equals timing in my past but it will be great  >
reading others thoughts  > HBD to my buddy who was smiling when the cat
started purring ....gone but  > never forgotten! !!!  > Sent from Huawei
Mobile  >  > Jay Laifman  wrote:  >  > >I drove the Tiger to work today.  It
was one of those drives when you turn  > >off the key, the purr stops, giving
way to the din of silence, and all you  > >want to do turn that key again and
head right back out.  > >  > >I drove it in honor of my dad's birthday today.
But, to be honest, just  > >about any excuse will usually do.  :-)  > >  >
>Thanks again to all who have contributed to keeping her back on the road  >
>... I'll be back at you for hard hot starting issues later...  > >  > >Jay  >
>_______________________________________________  > >  >
>tigers@autox.team.net  > >  > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html  >
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive  > >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:  >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com  >
_______________________________________________  >  > tigers@autox.team.net  >
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html  > Archive:
Unsubscribe:  >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
_______________________________________________    tigers@autox.team.net
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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Thread-Index: AQHOkfNxmvM6C6nEXUuzpoKn4BlCIJmHGAFw
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 21:18:45 +0000
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	FILETIME=[5EE33E10:01CE9221]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay,
If I remember  correctly, your car has a smaller Holley 4BBL (465 CFM?) on top
of a F4B manifold. I have also had hot start problems using a similar setup
on one of my cars. When attempting to re-start after the hot car sits for a
few minutes the engine only spins, and when it finally does start it feels
like it is loaded up or the choke is on. In my case this was caused by the
fuel boiling in the bowls, the pressure builds up and the fuel overflows into
the carb, loading up the engine. I tried heat shields and thicker gaskets but
there is no head room with the F4B so you cannot use a decent phenolic
insulator. I fixed this by installing a toggle switch under the dash for the
pump, and I shut off the pump a minute or so before I park the car. When I
come back I switch the pump back on, turn the key to prime the carb for a
couple seconds, and the car starts right up with fresh cool (ish) fuel flowing
into the bowls. The "secret" switch also makes a great theft deterrent.

It's easy to try, there should be a connector of some type or a fuse in your
fuel pump's circuit. Get your car hot and disconnect the power to the pump for
a minute before you shut off the engine. Wait about 15 minutes then reconnect
the pump, turn the key to let it prime for a couple seconds then see if the
engine starts easily. If there is no change in its behavior then it's probably
timing/spark issues.
Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Laifman
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 11:30 AM
To: Tiger's Den
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Today

... I'll be back at you for hard hot starting issues later...

Jay
_______________________________________________

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References: <CAAjp1z44U2cwdyEK2rgyQ2WKwTamqnaYQ5KfsDm+W=Xa1qZZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<26805228D183EF4E9C6F4499BB55B05147CFF08F@CINMBCNA10.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 14:31:07 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep, that's the carb and manifold - don't remember the CFM.  I can add the
switch.  In fact, I did exactly that on my Alpine - using the useless Panel
light switch.  Actually I swapped in a headlight switch because it is rated
for higher power.

I have been meaning to check out the spark plugs - as adverturous as that
apparently sounds.  So, perhaps I'll do that and check the timing first.

Thanks.

Jay


On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 2:18 PM, Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light) <
mark.rense@ge.com> wrote:

> Jay,
> If I remember  correctly, your car has a smaller Holley 4BBL (465 CFM?) on
> top of a F4B manifold. I have also had hot start problems using a similar
> setup  on one of my cars. When attempting to re-start after the hot car
> sits for a few minutes the engine only spins, and when it finally does
> start it feels like it is loaded up or the choke is on. In my case this was
> caused by the fuel boiling in the bowls, the pressure builds up and the
> fuel overflows into the carb, loading up the engine. I tried heat shields
> and thicker gaskets but there is no head room with the F4B so you cannot
> use a decent phenolic insulator. I fixed this by installing a toggle switch
> under the dash for the pump, and I shut off the pump a minute or so before
> I park the car. When I come back I switch the pump back on, turn the key to
> prime the carb for a couple seconds, and the car starts right up with fresh
> cool (ish) fuel flowing into the bowls. The "secret" switch also makes a
> great theft deterrent.
>
> It's easy to try, there should be a connector of some type or a fuse in
> your fuel pump's circuit. Get your car hot and disconnect the power to the
> pump for a minute before you shut off the engine. Wait about 15 minutes
> then reconnect the pump, turn the key to let it prime for a couple seconds
> then see if the engine starts easily. If there is no change in its behavior
> then it's probably timing/spark issues.
> Bugz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jay Laifman
> Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 11:30 AM
> To: Tiger's Den
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Today
>
> ... I'll be back at you for hard hot starting issues later...
>
> Jay
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 15:56:55 2013
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From: "Clyde McLaughlin" <clydemclaughlin@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2013 17:54:55 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac6SJQkQSF1QG0bvQKCVeM82c2kE3w==
Subject: [Tigers] te/ae united
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Inviting all to join us to celebrate 60 years of the Alpine..Eastern shore
Maryland is a great location and we have a great event planned..Crabs,  car
show,  boat tour,  live music.  Save the long weekend October 10th thru the
13th..check web site for registration and details
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 17:46:14 2013
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From: "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl &
	Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 19:41:55 -0400
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Thread-Index: Ac6SIxwcv5GrzjJbRj6w7F4bqXJNfQAEg0Ug
References: <CAAjp1z44U2cwdyEK2rgyQ2WKwTamqnaYQ5KfsDm+W=Xa1qZZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<26805228D183EF4E9C6F4499BB55B05147CFF08F@CINMBCNA10.e2k.ad.ge.com>
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Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
acceptlanguage: en-US
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Any idea about the condition or age of the starter?  A starter that is not
working optimally can perform poorly when hot and it will cause the symptoms
you described.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 2:31 PM
To: Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)
Cc: Tiger's Den
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Today

Yep, that's the carb and manifold - don't remember the CFM.  I can add the
switch.  In fact, I did exactly that on my Alpine - using the useless Panel
light switch.  Actually I swapped in a headlight switch because it is rated
for higher power.

I have been meaning to check out the spark plugs - as adverturous as that
apparently sounds.  So, perhaps I'll do that and check the timing first.

Thanks.

Jay


On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 2:18 PM, Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light) <
mark.rense@ge.com> wrote:

> Jay,
> If I remember  correctly, your car has a smaller Holley 4BBL (465
> CFM?) on top of a F4B manifold. I have also had hot start problems
> using a similar setup  on one of my cars. When attempting to re-start
> after the hot car sits for a few minutes the engine only spins, and
> when it finally does start it feels like it is loaded up or the choke
> is on. In my case this was caused by the fuel boiling in the bowls,
> the pressure builds up and the fuel overflows into the carb, loading
> up the engine. I tried heat shields and thicker gaskets but there is
> no head room with the F4B so you cannot use a decent phenolic
> insulator. I fixed this by installing a toggle switch under the dash
> for the pump, and I shut off the pump a minute or so before I park the
> car. When I come back I switch the pump back on, turn the key to prime
> the carb for a couple seconds, and the car starts right up with fresh
> cool (ish) fuel flowing into the bowls. The "secret" switch also makes a
great theft deterrent.
>
> It's easy to try, there should be a connector of some type or a fuse
> in your fuel pump's circuit. Get your car hot and disconnect the power
> to the pump for a minute before you shut off the engine. Wait about 15
> minutes then reconnect the pump, turn the key to let it prime for a
> couple seconds then see if the engine starts easily. If there is no
> change in its behavior then it's probably timing/spark issues.
> Bugz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jay Laifman
> Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 11:30 AM
> To: Tiger's Den
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Today
>
> ... I'll be back at you for hard hot starting issues later...
>
> Jay
_______________________________________________

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jteepen@usatoday.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 18:20:34 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; auth=pass (LOGIN) smtp.auth=awtiger@cox.net
From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
To: "'Rense, Mark \(GE, Appl & Light\)'" <mark.rense@ge.com>, "'Jay
	Laifman'" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, "'Tiger's Den'" <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <CAAjp1z44U2cwdyEK2rgyQ2WKwTamqnaYQ5KfsDm+W=Xa1qZZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<99Rk1m00r0koGQ6019RmpL>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 19:06:45 -0500
Thread-Index: AQHCcEHJ7DNq4iyFMhK//wlHo6ogXQIB1Rm/mY+B4QA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

That's an excellent idea, Mark!!!!  I may end up trying that myself as I
have the exact same setup on my Tiger and have experienced that problem
before.

Thanks,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)
Sent: Monday, August 5, 2013 4:19 PM
To: Jay Laifman; Tiger's Den
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Today

Jay,
If I remember  correctly, your car has a smaller Holley 4BBL (465 CFM?) on
top of a F4B manifold. I have also had hot start problems using a similar
setup on one of my cars. When attempting to re-start after the hot car sits
for a few minutes the engine only spins, and when it finally does start it
feels like it is loaded up or the choke is on. In my case this was caused by
the fuel boiling in the bowls, the pressure builds up and the fuel overflows
into the carb, loading up the engine. I tried heat shields and thicker
gaskets but there is no head room with the F4B so you cannot use a decent
phenolic insulator. I fixed this by installing a toggle switch under the
dash for the pump, and I shut off the pump a minute or so before I park the
car. When I come back I switch the pump back on, turn the key to prime the
carb for a couple seconds, and the car starts right up with fresh cool (ish)
fuel flowing into the bowls. The "secret" switch also makes a great theft
deterrent.

It's easy to try, there should be a connector of some type or a fuse in your
fuel pump's circuit. Get your car hot and disconnect the power to the pump
for a minute before you shut off the engine. Wait about 15 minutes then
reconnect the pump, turn the key to let it prime for a couple seconds then
see if the engine starts easily. If there is no change in its behavior then
it's probably timing/spark issues.
Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Laifman
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 11:30 AM
To: Tiger's Den
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Today

... I'll be back at you for hard hot starting issues later...

Jay
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 18:27:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] The United
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

"
Inviting all to join us to celebrate 60 years of the Alpine..Eastern shore
Maryland is a great location and we have a great event planned..Crabs,  car
show,  boat tour,  live music.  Save the long weekend October 10th thru the
13th..check web site for registration and details"

Clyde, look, I can be
accused of being a little cranky once in a while like anyone else, but I never
looked at it as a United selling point.
Rande
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 20:54:09 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <CAAjp1z44U2cwdyEK2rgyQ2WKwTamqnaYQ5KfsDm+W=Xa1qZZSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2013 19:53:03 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

"The "secret" switch also makes a great theft deterrent."

And, if it is a Lucas switch, it is probably theft proof!
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; auth=pass (LOGIN) smtp.auth=awtiger@cox.net
From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
To: "'Tiger's Den'" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 22:44:12 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6THQ//Rt4V/aYoTCyazoeZPQPemg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey, guys:

 

I've got a question for some of the more mathematically proficient in the
group.  I'm considering making some changes to my Tiger pertaining to the
rear end gear ratio.  Can anyone tell me how to figure what kind of rpm
difference there would be at, say 70 mph, between a Tiger equipped with a
stock 2.88:1 rear end and one equipped with first a 3:07.1 and then a 3:31.1
rear gear?  Surely there's a formula out there that can figure that.  Can
anyone point me in the right direction?    

 

The bottom line here is that I need something that will get my car off the
line a bit quicker without completely destroying my highway cruising
capabilities.  I currently am running an Edelbrock F4B and a Holley 465 cfm
carb, a hydraulic version of the old Ford hi-po cam, and 13" LAT 70s with
185/70 tires.  The car currently has a 2:88.1 rear gear and that makes it a
bit sluggish off the line.  I've heard it said that a 3.07:1 gear was about
ideal for a stock Tiger, but with the cam and carburation my car has, would
a 3.31:1 be a better alternative?

 

Thanks for any advice,

Andy Walker

Edmond, OK

B382001600LRXFE

TAC #740
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 21:52:54 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <000a01ce9320$61dfda60$259f8f20$@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2013 20:52:34 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Andy,
Probably the best thing to do is go to the wide ratio transmission (assuming 
you have the close ratio).  It will improve your off the line response and 
not change your "highway" ratio at all.  Ironically I have heard of racers 
actually wanting the close ratio in the Tiger - and some have swapped to 
each persons advantage.

There are calculators all over the internet that allow you to input tire 
size, ratios etc. and see what the RPMs will be.

Tom
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 21:53:48 2013
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From: "jim" <jim@island.net>
To: "'Andy Walker'" <awtiger@cox.net>, "'Tiger's Den'" <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <000a01ce9320$61dfda60$259f8f20$@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 20:53:26 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6THQ//Rt4V/aYoTCyazoeZPQPemgABFTsQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

A 5 speed is the ultimate fix... but to figure out any changes to rear
gears, etc. you need this...

http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/HokansonGearSpeedXL/pt-HokansonGearSpee
dXL.asp

Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andy Walker
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 8:44 PM
To: 'Tiger's Den'
Subject: [Tigers] Gears and rpms

Hey, guys:

 

I've got a question for some of the more mathematically proficient in the
group.  I'm considering making some changes to my Tiger pertaining to the
rear end gear ratio.  Can anyone tell me how to figure what kind of rpm
difference there would be at, say 70 mph, between a Tiger equipped with a
stock 2.88:1 rear end and one equipped with first a 3:07.1 and then a 3:31.1
rear gear?  Surely there's a formula out there that can figure that.  Can
anyone point me in the right direction?    

 

The bottom line here is that I need something that will get my car off the
line a bit quicker without completely destroying my highway cruising
capabilities.  I currently am running an Edelbrock F4B and a Holley 465 cfm
carb, a hydraulic version of the old Ford hi-po cam, and 13" LAT 70s with
185/70 tires.  The car currently has a 2:88.1 rear gear and that makes it a
bit sluggish off the line.  I've heard it said that a 3.07:1 gear was about
ideal for a stock Tiger, but with the cam and carburation my car has, would
a 3.31:1 be a better alternative?

 

Thanks for any advice,

Andy Walker

Edmond, OK

B382001600LRXFE

TAC #740
_______________________________________________

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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Thread-Index: Ac6THQ//Rt4V/aYoTCyazoeZPQPemgABUhHh
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 03:58:16 +0000
References: <000a01ce9320$61dfda60$259f8f20$@cox.net>
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Andy,
I have 3.31 gears in my Tiger. At 70 mph in direct drive (4th in the toploader
or the t5) it turns about 3500 rpm... Kinda busy and not great for mileage.
The T5 has a 0.67 overdrive and that takes care of things.
Others have already pointed to Bob's calculator; it will let you play with all
the numbers. If you want to make a change then 3.07 is probably the better
compromise.
 Theo



On 2013-08-06, at 9:44 PM, "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net> wrote:

> Hey, guys:
>
>
>
> I've got a question for some of the more mathematically proficient in the
> group.  I'm considering making some changes to my Tiger pertaining to the
> rear end gear ratio.  Can anyone tell me how to figure what kind of rpm
> difference there would be at, say 70 mph, between a Tiger equipped with a
> stock 2.88:1 rear end and one equipped with first a 3:07.1 and then a
3:31.1
> rear gear?  Surely there's a formula out there that can figure that.  Can
> anyone point me in the right direction?
>
>
>
> The bottom line here is that I need something that will get my car off the
> line a bit quicker without completely destroying my highway cruising
> capabilities.  I currently am running an Edelbrock F4B and a Holley 465 cfm
> carb, a hydraulic version of the old Ford hi-po cam, and 13" LAT 70s with
> 185/70 tires.  The car currently has a 2:88.1 rear gear and that makes it a
> bit sluggish off the line.  I've heard it said that a 3.07:1 gear was about
> ideal for a stock Tiger, but with the cam and carburation my car has, would
> a 3.31:1 be a better alternative?
>
>
>
> Thanks for any advice,
>
> Andy Walker
>
> Edmond, OK
>
> B382001600LRXFE
>
> TAC #740
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit@dynastream.com
>
>
>

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 22:41:16 2013
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 14:41:06 +1000
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Andy,

with 185/70/13's the following will be the RPM/speed:

3.07:1
60mph: 2669 rpm
70mph: 3114 rpm

3.31:1
60mph: 2878 rpm
70mph: 3357 rpm

For what it's worth. if you are prepared to pull the rear end... dont...
you are better off switching to the wide ratio trans gears.. you will get a
shorter first and quicker take off without hurting cruising rpm. I have a
3.07 and run 195/60/14 ... the wide ratio gives a better first than i have
even with shorter gears,, and better highway.

The 5 speed is the best option.. you could run a slightly shorter rear..
have brutal acceleration.. and still better than stock highway... then
again.. traction might be harder to come by off the line...

i would switch out your first gear ratio before you swap the rear end. just
my .02



-- 
Regards

Michael King
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2013 02:26:28 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net>, 'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Andy, if you go to 331 gears, you will have wheel hop with higher rpm line shots when running 13 inch wheels. Assuming the hp is there. My first Tiger (1972)  had 331 gears, 13 inch wheels with 60s and a 289 with a huge can, it ate my. 2nd Tiger alive (I bought it later from my friend)  which had a rebuilt 260, four barell intake and Carb. with 288 gears.I'm now running 288 gears a five speed and 15 inch wheels. I can go through town in 5th gear at 1000 rpm, my speedo has never worked since the
Sent from Huawei Mobile

Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net> wrote:

>Hey, guys:
>
> 
>
>I've got a question for some of the more mathematically proficient in the
>group.  I'm considering making some changes to my Tiger pertaining to the
>rear end gear ratio.  Can anyone tell me how to figure what kind of rpm
>difference there would be at, say 70 mph, between a Tiger equipped with a
>stock 2.88:1 rear end and one equipped with first a 3:07.1 and then a 3:31.1
>rear gear?  Surely there's a formula out there that can figure that.  Can
>anyone point me in the right direction?    
>
> 
>
>The bottom line here is that I need something that will get my car off the
>line a bit quicker without completely destroying my highway cruising
>capabilities.  I currently am running an Edelbrock F4B and a Holley 465 cfm
>carb, a hydraulic version of the old Ford hi-po cam, and 13" LAT 70s with
>185/70 tires.  The car currently has a 2:88.1 rear gear and that makes it a
>bit sluggish off the line.  I've heard it said that a 3.07:1 gear was about
>ideal for a stock Tiger, but with the cam and carburation my car has, would
>a 3.31:1 be a better alternative?
>
> 
>
>Thanks for any advice,
>
>Andy Walker
>
>Edmond, OK
>
>B382001600LRXFE
>
>TAC #740
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 00:42:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>
To: Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net>, 'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Here is an online version of the Gear and Speed Calculator. I have it
configured for a few of the top loader gear ratios and all web based in case
you don't have a spreadsheet. 
 
http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/GearCalc.html
 
HTH
 
Sandy
 

________________________________
 From: Andy Walker
<awtiger@cox.net>
To: 'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday,
August 6, 2013 8:44 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
  

Hey, guys:



I've
got a question for some of the more mathematically proficient in the
group. 
I'm considering making some changes to my Tiger pertaining to the
rear end
gear ratio.  Can anyone tell me how to figure what kind of rpm
difference
there would be at, say 70 mph, between a Tiger equipped with a
stock 2.88:1
rear end and one equipped with first a 3:07.1 and then a 3:31.1
rear gear? 
Surely there's a formula out there that can figure that.  Can
anyone point me
in the right direction?    



The bottom line here is that I need something
that will get my car off the
line a bit quicker without completely destroying
my highway cruising
capabilities.  I currently am running an Edelbrock F4B and
a Holley 465 cfm
carb, a hydraulic version of the old Ford hi-po cam, and 13"
LAT 70s with
185/70 tires.  The car currently has a 2:88.1 rear gear and that
makes it a
bit sluggish off the line.  I've heard it said that a 3.07:1 gear
was about
ideal for a stock Tiger, but with the cam and carburation my car
has, would
a 3.31:1 be a better alternative?



Thanks for any advice,

Andy
Walker

Edmond, OK

B382001600LRXFE

TAC #740
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2013 02:49:53 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>, Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net>, 'Tiger's Den'
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

sorry ..... since the T5 installation, so I can't speak to gas milage but I have. no wheel hop but better traction would be a plus. I'm also running stock 288s. I think if I had wider tires and whatever is now the best traction inhancer the LIST recommends I would have a great setup.I'm running a 302 with 289 CI heads using 350 Chevy valves, for shame, for shame and a mild can. Duke has me needing a stroker engine.That said, I don't think the five speed will hold up to lots of HP and as mentioned the wide ratio should be considered. Meanwhile I think my setup is great, I just want /need more HP and then I may have to adjust. Good Luck. TtT 
Sent from Huawei Mobile

TtT <achd73@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Andy, if you go to 331 gears, you will have wheel hop with higher rpm line shots when running 13 inch wheels. Assuming the hp is there. My first Tiger (1972)  had 331 gears, 13 inch wheels with 60s and a 289 with a huge can, it ate my. 2nd Tiger alive (I bought it later from my friend)  which had a rebuilt 260, four barell intake and Carb. with 288 gears.I'm now running 288 gears a five speed and 15 inch wheels. I can go through town in 5th gear at 1000 rpm, my speedo has never worked since the
>Sent from Huawei Mobile
>
>Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net> wrote:
>
>>Hey, guys:
>>
>> 
>>
>>I've got a question for some of the more mathematically proficient in the
>>group.  I'm considering making some changes to my Tiger pertaining to the
>>rear end gear ratio.  Can anyone tell me how to figure what kind of rpm
>>difference there would be at, say 70 mph, between a Tiger equipped with a
>>stock 2.88:1 rear end and one equipped with first a 3:07.1 and then a 3:31.1
>>rear gear?  Surely there's a formula out there that can figure that.  Can
>>anyone point me in the right direction?    
>>
>> 
>>
>>The bottom line here is that I need something that will get my car off the
>>line a bit quicker without completely destroying my highway cruising
>>capabilities.  I currently am running an Edelbrock F4B and a Holley 465 cfm
>>carb, a hydraulic version of the old Ford hi-po cam, and 13" LAT 70s with
>>185/70 tires.  The car currently has a 2:88.1 rear gear and that makes it a
>>bit sluggish off the line.  I've heard it said that a 3.07:1 gear was about
>>ideal for a stock Tiger, but with the cam and carburation my car has, would
>>a 3.31:1 be a better alternative?
>>
>> 
>>
>>Thanks for any advice,
>>
>>Andy Walker
>>
>>Edmond, OK
>>
>>B382001600LRXFE
>>
>>TAC #740
>>_______________________________________________
>>
>>tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 9:58:16 -0400
From: <awtiger@cox.net>
To: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

A big "thank you" to all of you who responded to my gearing question!!!  The calculators and spreadsheets that several of you turned me on to are of great assistance.

So, the general concensus I'm getting from you guys appears to be that the close-ratio tranny is more of a culprit in contributing to slower off-the-line response than is the rear end ratio.  Going to the wide-ratio gears does sound like the answer I'm looking for as it yields the best of everything without cutting up the car; quicker response off the line and easier on the clutch while still maintaining the highway rear gear advantages of less noise, less wear and tear on the engine and reasonable gas mileage.  This may be the route that I should take as I'm going to have to have my trans gone through anyway when I replace the clutch in the car this winter.  This would be a great opportunity to make the suggested ratio changes.

Having said that, it appears that most of you who have made this change have done so by just changing the gears in your close-ratio boxes.  So, to Gary and others who have done this, where should I be looking for the parts I would need to make the recommended gear ratio changes?  

Thanks again for the suggestions and assistance,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740


---- michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com> wrote: 
> Andy,
> 
> with 185/70/13's the following will be the RPM/speed:
> 
> 3.07:1
> 60mph: 2669 rpm
> 70mph: 3114 rpm
> 
> 3.31:1
> 60mph: 2878 rpm
> 70mph: 3357 rpm
> 
> For what it's worth. if you are prepared to pull the rear end... dont...
> you are better off switching to the wide ratio trans gears.. you will get a
> shorter first and quicker take off without hurting cruising rpm. I have a
> 3.07 and run 195/60/14 ... the wide ratio gives a better first than i have
> even with shorter gears,, and better highway.
> 
> The 5 speed is the best option.. you could run a slightly shorter rear..
> have brutal acceleration.. and still better than stock highway... then
> again.. traction might be harder to come by off the line...
> 
> i would switch out your first gear ratio before you swap the rear end. just
> my .02
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Regards
> 
> Michael King
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Seems to me that a change in rear end gear ratios would also be a ratio.  
For example, going from 2.88 to 3.07 would give a ratio of 1.066. Taking this 
 times the RPM at a speed using 2.88 gears and multiplying by 1.066 gives 
the RPM  with the new gears at the given speed.
 
My Tiger runs 2400 RPM at 60 MPH with 2.88 gears. With 3.07 gears the RPM  
would be approximately 2558 RPM. This assumes everything else stays the  
same.
 
Fred Baum
 
 
In a message dated 8/7/2013 9:58:23 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
awtiger@cox.net writes:

A big  "thank you" to all of you who responded to my gearing question!!!  
The  calculators and spreadsheets that several of you turned me on to are of 
great  assistance.

So, the general concensus I'm getting from you guys appears  to be that the 
close-ratio tranny is more of a culprit in contributing to  slower off
-the-line response than is the rear end ratio.  Going to the  wide-ratio gears 
does sound like the answer I'm looking for as it yields the  best of 
everything without cutting up the car; quicker response off the line  and easier on 
the clutch while still maintaining the highway rear gear  advantages of less 
noise, less wear and tear on the engine and reasonable gas  mileage.  This 
may be the route that I should take as I'm going to have  to have my trans 
gone through anyway when I replace the clutch in the car this  winter.  This 
would be a great opportunity to make the suggested ratio  changes.

Having said that, it appears that most of you who have made  this change 
have done so by just changing the gears in your close-ratio  boxes.  So, to 
Gary and others who have done this, where should I be  looking for the parts I 
would need to make the recommended gear ratio  changes?  

Thanks again for the suggestions and  assistance,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC  #740
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2013 07:29:52 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
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Jumping in late on this thread with a question.  What is the motivation 
for getting 'off the line' quicker?  Are we street racing from light to 
light? Drag racing? Have more money for fuel or what?  Some kid in a KIA 
get after you (us)?  At no time in my past did I ever really feel that 
the Tiger actually needed more get up and go at the light. Especially 
considering that low gear is one used so little most of us shifting to a 
higher gear fairly quickly.   I always found that the fuse in the car 
was traction even with the box stock 260 in my car.

So, what gives?  What's the motivation?

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed

On 8/7/2013 6:58 AM, awtiger@cox.net wrote:
> A big "thank you" to all of you who responded to my gearing question!!!  The calculators and spreadsheets that several of you turned me on to are of great assistance.
>
> So, the general concensus I'm getting from you guys appears to be that the close-ratio tranny is more of a culprit in contributing to slower off-the-line response than is the rear end ratio.  Going to the wide-ratio gears does sound like the answer I'm looking for as it yields the best of everything without cutting up the car; quicker response off the line and easier on the clutch while still maintaining the highway rear gear advantages of less noise, less wear and tear on the engine and reasonable gas mileage.  This may be the route that I should take as I'm going to have to have my trans gone through anyway when I replace the clutch in the car this winter.  This would be a great opportunity to make the suggested ratio changes.
>
> Having said that, it appears that most of you who have made this change have done so by just changing the gears in your close-ratio boxes.  So, to Gary and others who have done this, where should I be looking for the parts I would need to make the recommended gear ratio changes?
>
> Thanks again for the suggestions and assistance,
> Andy Walker
> Edmond, OK
> B382001600LRXFE
> TAC #740
>
>
> ---- michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Andy,
>>
>> with 185/70/13's the following will be the RPM/speed:
>>
>> 3.07:1
>> 60mph: 2669 rpm
>> 70mph: 3114 rpm
>>
>> 3.31:1
>> 60mph: 2878 rpm
>> 70mph: 3357 rpm
>>
>> For what it's worth. if you are prepared to pull the rear end... dont...
>> you are better off switching to the wide ratio trans gears.. you will get a
>> shorter first and quicker take off without hurting cruising rpm. I have a
>> 3.07 and run 195/60/14 ... the wide ratio gives a better first than i have
>> even with shorter gears,, and better highway.
>>
>> The 5 speed is the best option.. you could run a slightly shorter rear..
>> have brutal acceleration.. and still better than stock highway... then
>> again.. traction might be harder to come by off the line...
>>
>> i would switch out your first gear ratio before you swap the rear end. just
>> my .02
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Regards
>>
>> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net>, 'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Thread-Index: Ac6THQ//Rt4V/aYoTCyazoeZPQPemgAS3EHQ
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 15:35:53 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
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Hi Andy,
I'll share a little experience with gearing. I have two Tigers, one has a
high-revving 6800 RPM (no snickering, Buck) 289 with the standard close ratio
Toploader, a 3.23 rear end and 205/60-13 (22.8" diameter) tires. The other car
is a low-revving (5800 RPM) 331 stroker with stock 2.88 but with the wide
ratio gear set in the Toploader and 205/60-14 (23.7" diameter) tires. In
either case the cars will easily overcome available traction with much spin
and hop. I have a set of Hoosier R6s for the 289 car and those tires have a
lot of bite but still spin like hell.

When I built the stroker car I went with the wide ratio to keep the stock rear
end and therefore lower RPM at motorway speeds. I had the opportunity to flog
both cars last weekend through some of S.E.  Ohio's famous back roads and
actually preferred the 289 car with the close ratio box, it was a better
combination for tight roads when running 50 to 70 mph. The stroker car is all
about torque (over 325 lb-ft from 2100 to 5700) and was more comfortable when
I just left it in fourth and powered out of the turns, with an occasional
downshift for switch-backs and to blast past the errant Amish buggy. In short,
the close ratio was more fun and more involving to drive, the wide ratio was
more relaxing and less fatiguing. Two different kinds of quick. On the
Interstate the 331 car with the bigger tires and 2.88  turns about 500 rpm
lower so is more relaxed and less stressed on long trips.

So what to do? If your engine has a broad torque curve, the wide ratio is the
way to go, this also preserves the 2.88 rear end for those 80 mph I-35 runs,
plus it keeps your car close to original. A 5-speed would be the best choice
but you either go cheap and modify the car's sheetmetal or spend cubic dollars
and use Tom Hall's T-5 kit or the new Tremec drop-in kit from Bill Martin.

Also keep in mind what you plan to do about tires in the future. There simply
are no more decent 13" or 14" tires out there, so the jump to 15" or 16" will
change your running diameter and your effective gearing. Your current tire is
about 23.2" in diameter, a 205/50-15 is right at 23" dia, a 225/50-15 is
23.8", all part of the equation.

For Toploader parts I have had great service from David Kee Toploaders in San
Antonio TX, I have bought gear clusters and complete rebuild kits from him. He
will also rebuild yours with a nice wide ratio cluster. Be aware that to
rebuild a Toploader with a new gear cluster and bearing kit will be north of
$1100.

Good luck,

Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andy Walker
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 11:44 PM
To: 'Tiger's Den'
Subject: [Tigers] Gears and rpms

Hey, guys:
I've got a question for some of the more mathematically proficient in the
group.  I'm considering making some changes to my Tiger pertaining to the rear
end gear ratio.  Can anyone tell me how to figure what kind of rpm difference
there would be at, say 70 mph, between a Tiger equipped with a stock 2.88:1
rear end and one equipped with first a 3:07.1 and then a 3:31.1 rear gear?
Surely there's a formula out there that can figure that.  Can
anyone point me in the right direction?

The bottom line here is that I need something that will get my car off the
line a bit quicker without completely destroying my highway cruising
capabilities.  I currently am running an Edelbrock F4B and a Holley 465 cfm
carb, a hydraulic version of the old Ford hi-po cam, and 13" LAT 70s with
185/70 tires.  The car currently has a 2:88.1 rear gear and that makes it a
bit sluggish off the line.  I've heard it said that a 3.07:1 gear was about
ideal for a stock Tiger, but with the cam and carburation my car has, would a
3.31:1 be a better alternative?

Thanks for any advice,

Andy Walker

Edmond, OK

B382001600LRXFE

TAC #740
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From: Rollright@aol.com
Full-name: Rollright
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 11:41:52 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Tigers] Tiger vs. Alpine rear end
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Hello,
 
Andy Walker's question got me thinking: 
-  Do the Tiger and Alpine have the same type of rear end? 
- If so, is the Alpine a source of gearing for the Tiger?
 
Best to all,
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 11:47:47 -0400
From: Jim Sencindiver <jd.sencindiver@gmail.com>
To: Rollright@aol.com
Cc: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger vs. Alpine rear end
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The Tiger Rear end is specific to the Tiger.  The Alpine rear end would not
withstand Ford V8 torque.
Keep on Tigering!
Jim Sencindiver

B382100451/TAC 448
http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/sencindiver_j/default.asp
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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 10:49:29 -0500
From: Cullen McCann <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
To: Rollright@aol.com
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger vs. Alpine rear end
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

nooooooo.... the Tiger uses a Dana-based rear axle, and the alpine uses
something british that I dont know anything about. looks like a cute little
ford 9" only A LOT smaller.

I ALMOST knew the whole answer!!!!!

Cullen


On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 10:41 AM, <Rollright@aol.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Andy Walker's question got me thinking:
> -  Do the Tiger and Alpine have the same type of rear end?
> - If so, is the Alpine a source of gearing for the Tiger?
>
> Best to all,
>
> Jim  Armstrong
> Mk 1A
> 382002083
> LRXFE
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger rear axle
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

You'll probably get more detailed info soon, but IIRC, Salisbury was the UK manufacturer and many people describe the design as a Dana 44 type, which is the type used on some Jeeps with solid rear axles. I don't think it's similar to Alpine. As someone wrote earlier, if the issue is wanting to change ratios, one solution is to do it with different gears on the gearbox.
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From: "Lynn" <cars@wt-inc.com>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
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I have never liked the close ratio tranny.  It made the car a chore to drive
in my opinion.  I went to a wide ratio and it immediately became more
pleasant.  Coming off the line no longer required me to feather the
throttle.  It was the single best change I did.

Regarding your other questions I think many of us would answer as follows:

Are we street racing from light to light?  Yes
Drag racing? Every chance I get.
Have more money for fuel or what?  Just on pay day
Some kid in a KIA get after you (us)?  Little pricks
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  7 14:20:53 2013
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 16:19:35 -0400 (EDT)
To: cars@wt-inc.com, drmayf@mayfco.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
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LOL
 
 
In a message dated 8/7/2013 4:15:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cars@wt-inc.com writes:

I have  never liked the close ratio tranny.  It made the car a chore to  
drive
in my opinion.  I went to a wide ratio and it immediately became  more
pleasant.  Coming off the line no longer required me to feather  the
throttle.  It was the single best change I did.

Regarding  your other questions I think many of us would answer as follows:

Are we  street racing from light to light?  Yes
Drag racing? Every chance I  get.
Have more money for fuel or what?  Just on pay day
Some kid in  a KIA get after you (us)?  Little  pricks
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 00:08:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary <maliburevue@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Fw: Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

B 
I wholeheartedly agree with all the comments about converting from a close
ratio transmission to a wide ratio setup while keeping the 2.88 rearend gears
for street driving. My first Tiger had a close ratio transmission and 3.31
rearend gears, and although it was great out of the hole, it was terrible at
70 mph on the highway at 3500 rpms. Granted, a close ratio setup is great on a
road course where you want your engine rpm in the sweet spot of the torque
curve at all times, but stop and go street driving is a drag with such a tall
first gear.
The factory 2.78 wide ratio first gear is 20% lower than the
factory 2.32 close ratio first gear. I have mentioned to some here on the
TigerB List that when I converted my present Tiger to a wide ratio, I
installed a 2.90 first gear instead of the factory 2.78 first gear. This makes
for a 25% lower first gear over the close ratio setup. My first gear is now so
low that I am next going to install 2.72 rearend gears for a 6% overdrive
(compared to the 2.88s). This will drop my 2.90 first gear to a comparable
2.74 ratio, nearly identical to the factory 2.78 wide ratio, still a 19%
improvement over the close ratio configuration. This will also drop my highway
engine speed another ~200 rpms lower than the factory 2.88s.
I spent ~$450 for
new wide ratio tranny gears and sold my old close ratio gears for ~$200. The
2.72 rearend gears range from $20 to $90 and use a fine spline (26) pinion
flange. I paid $50 for my rearend gears and $90 for the flange. Naturally if
you farm out the labor, it will be more. But for less than $500 for parts,
1/10 the cost of aB 5 speed, I have a 2.74 first gear and a .94 overdrive,
with no cutting up the car, no issues with the bellhousing, clutch, throwout
bearing, linkage, speedo cable, gear shift opening or drive shaft, and an
unbreakable toploader that can easily handle the torque of my 331 stroker
motor.
For those who are interested in a wide ratio setup, here are the best
prices I have found:
http://www.allstategear.com/Toploader.htm
2nd - WT296-21A
- $59.10
3rd - WT296-11A - $57.60
input - WT296-16BB  - $82.10
cluster -
WT296-8A - $142.60
B 
http://toploadertransmissions.com/
2.90 1st - $125
Note:
David Kee no longer sells the 2.90 first gear, but Dan williams does. I found
the Dana 44 2.72 gearsB on Craigslist and eBay and the flange you can get
theB IWEB Rearends in Canada (you can use my name).
B IWE Rear Ends Only
888-433-4717 ext 1, Danelle
www.iwerearendsonly.com
For those of us who
donbt race open track and donbt feel like dropping $5,000 for a 5 speed,
yet who like everyday street driving, to me this bpoor manbs overdriveb
with the low first gear is the best all around setup.
B 
Gary Crandall
B 
P.S.
For comparison purposes I have added my spreadsheet comparing tranny and
rearend setups (except 3.54 and 3.73) based on a 23" tire and 6000 rpm shift
point. Note that first gear for the 2.90/2.72 combo is the same as the close
ratio with 3.31s, yet drops 600 rpms in fourth gear.
B 
If anyone wants my
complete original spreadsheet to play with their tire size and engine speed,
email me off List.
(I don't know if this will come through the List correctly)
B 
B  
Tire Diameter, in B  23   Close Ratio   Wide Ratio Original  5 speed
Optional 
RPM, max B  6000  1 2.32  1 2.90 2.78 1 2.95 3.35 
    2 1.69  2
1.93  2 1.94  
    3 1.29  3 1.36  3 1.34  
    4 1.00  4 1.00  4 1.00
5 0.80 0.63              
Rear End Ratio  2.72 B   2.88 B   3.07 B   3.31 B 
Transmission  Speed, MPH B   Speed, MPH B   Speed, MPH B   Speed, MPH B 
CloseB B B B B B B B B B B B B  1  65 B   61 B   58 B   53 B 
RatioB B B B B B B B B B B B B B  2  89 B   84 B   79 B   73 B  
3  117 B 
111 B   104 B   96 B  
4  151 B   143 B   134 B   124 B 
WideB B B B B B B B B B B B B B  1  52 B   49 B   46 B   43 B 
RatioB B B B B B B B B B B B B B  2  78 B   74 B   69 B   64 B  
3  111 B 
105 B   98 B   91 B  
4  151 B   143 B   134 B   124 B  
5
SpeedB B B B B B B B B  1  51 B   48 B   45 B   42 B  
2  78 B   73 B   69 B 
64 B  
3  113 B   106 B   100 B   93 B  
4  151 B   143 B   134 B   124 B  
5
189 B   178 B   167 B   155 B  
RPM in top gear  B  B   B  B   B  B   B  B 
per MPH  4 spd 5 spd  4 spd 5 spd  4 spd 5 spd  4 spd 5 spd 
10  398 318  421
337  449 359  484 387 
20  795 636  842 673  897 718  967 774 
30  1193 954
1263 1010  1346 1077  1451 1161 
40  1590 1272  1684 1347  1795 1436  1935
1548 
50  1988 1590  2104 1684  2243 1795  2419 1935 
60  2385 1908  2525 2020
2692 2154  2902 2322 
70  2783 2226  2946 2357  3141 2513  3386 2709 
80  3180
2544  3367 2694  3589 2871  3870 3096 
90  3578 2862  3788 3030  4038 3230
4354 3483 
100  3975 3180  4209 3367  4487 3589  4837 3870 
110  4373 3498
4630 3704  4935 3948  5321 4257 
120  4770 3816  5051 4041  5384 4307  5805
4644 
130  5168 4134  5472 4377  5833 4666  6289 5031 
140  5565 4452  5893
4714  6281 5025  6772 5418 
150  5963 4770  6313 5051  6730 5384  7256 5805
B 
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 07:10:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Misc Questions - 1966 MK 1A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Good Morning All
B 
The MK 1A is progressing, paint and body work complete,
engine, mechanical, brakes are tested and complete b I hope, and with new
wiring harness.B  We are on to the under dash components and I have a few
questions.
B 
	1. The 2 intake vents from in front of the windshield pull air
into a plastic box under the dash.
	1. One door works fine, the other fell
out.B  How are the doors attached\secured to the plastic box?B  Is there a
gasket also that goes around the doors?
	2. There is a drain hole at the
bottom of each box b where do these route to? Do they also use one of the
duck bills at the fire wall end or where?
	3. A picture of the under dash,
windshield wiper motor, gears and blower motor would be VERY helpful.
B 
	1.
The defroster vents on the inside\top of dash b are these suppose to be
gloss black or painted a black wrinkle finish?
B 
	1. The rear license plate
has what I call an illumination bracket for 2 lights to shine up onto the tag
b is this suppose to be body color or something else?
B 
	1. Windshield
frame b is this suppose to be body color or something else?
B 
	1. Hood
catch and cable release - is this supposed to be body color or something else?
B 
	1. I have seen multiple windshield washer bottles b the one I have, not
in great shape, color wise is a round circle with bRootesb in the middle
with no colors b is this correct for the 1966 MK1A?
B 
	1. I have 3
windshield washer pumps b 1 with 3 plastic tips for the lines, 1 broken tip,
1 with 2 plastic tips b I would surmise that one is inlet, 1 outlet b then
to a bTb.B  I even have a brand new pump, Rootes part # 5220827 which has
2 plastic tips, which I guess would need a T as well b If a bTb is
required b metal or plastic and the size of the lines would be?
B 
	1. B I
know I found a website that had color 11 X 17 wiring diagrams for my 1973 MGB;
is there such a wiring diagrams for the MK 1A Tigers?
B 
I know I asked a lot
of questions here but after start up and driving the Tiger with a MG midget
seat, not bolted in, I am a little excited to keep moving forward.
B 
As
always, thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
B 
Regards,
Joel
Martin
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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 07:41:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary <maliburevue@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The format got messed up on my last post. Let me try it again.
B 
I
wholeheartedly agree with all the comments about converting from a close ratio
transmission to a wide ratio setup while keeping the 2.88 rearend gears for
street driving. My first Tiger had a close ratio transmission and 3.31 rearend
gears, and although it was great out of the hole, it was terrible at 70 mph on
the highway at 3500 rpms. Granted, a close ratio setup is great on a road
course where you want your engine rpm in the sweet spot of the torque curve at
all times, but stop and go street driving is a drag with such a tall first
gear.
B 
The factory 2.78 wide ratio first gear is 20% lower than the factory
2.32 close ratio first gear. I have mentioned to some here on the TigerB List
that when I converted my present Tiger to a wide ratio, I installed a 2.90
first gear instead of the factory 2.78 first gear. This makes for a 25% lower
first gear over the close ratio setup. My first gear is now so low that I am
next going to install 2.72 rearend gears for a 6% overdrive (compared to the
2.88s). This will drop my 2.90 first gear to a comparable 2.74 ratio, nearly
identical to the factory 2.78 ratio, still a 19% improvement over the close
ratio configuration. This will also drop my highway engine speed another ~200
rpms lower than the factory 2.88s.
B 
I spent ~$450 for new wide ratio tranny
gears and sold my old close ratio gears for ~$200. The 2.72 rearend gears
range from $20 to $90 and use a fine spline (26) pinion flange. I paid $50 for
my rearend gears and $90 for the flange. Naturally if you farm out the labor
it will be more. But for less than $500 for parts, 1/10 the cost of a 5 speed,
I have a 2.74 first gear and a .94 overdrive, with no cutting up the car, no
problems with the speedo cable or gear shift opening, and an unbreakable
toploader that can easily handle the torque of my 331 stroker motor.
B 
For
those who are interested in a wide ratio setup, here are the best prices I
have found:
http://www.allstategear.com/Toploader.htm
2nd - WT296-21A - $59.10
3rd - WT296-11A - $57.60
input - WT296-16BB  - $82.10
cluster - WT296-8A -
$142.60
B 
http://toploadertransmissions.com/
2.90 1st - $125
B 
Note: David
Kee no longer sells the 2.90 first gear, but Dan Williams does. The Dana 44
2.72 gears I found on Craigslist and eBay and the flange you can get
fromB IWEB Rearends in Canada. You can use my name.
B 
IWE Rear Ends Only
FREEB 888-433-4717B end_of_the_skype_highlighting ext 1, Danelle
www.iwerearendsonly.com


B 
B 
For those of us who donbt race open track
and donbt feel like droppingB 'cubic dollars'B for a 5 speed, yet who like
everyday street driving, to me this bpoor manbs overdriveb with the low
first gear is the best all around setup.
B 
Gary
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 07:55:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary <maliburevue@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

One more time as a test to see if I've got my formatting straightened out.
B 
I wholeheartedly agree with all the comments about converting from a close
ratio transmission to a wide ratio setup while keeping the 2.88 rearend gears
for street driving. My first Tiger had a close ratio transmission and 3.31
rearend gears, and although it was great out of the hole, it was terrible at
70 mph on the highway at 3500 rpms. Granted, a close ratio setup is great on a
road course where you want your engine rpm in the sweet spot of the torque
curve at all times, but stop and go street driving is a drag with such a tall
first gear.
B 
The factory 2.78 wide ratio first gear is 20% lower than the
factory 2.32 close ratio first gear. I have mentioned to some here on the
Tiger List that when I converted my present Tiger to a wide ratio, I installed
a 2.90 first gear instead of the factory 2.78 first gear. This makes for a 25%
lower first gear over the close ratio setup. My first gear is now so low that
I am next going to install 2.72 rearend gears for a 6% overdrive (compared to
the 2.88s). This will drop my 2.90 first gear to a comparable 2.74 ratio,
nearly identical to the factory 2.78 wide ratio, still a 19% improvement over
the close ratio configuration. This will also drop my highway engine speed
another ~200 rpms lower than the factory 2.88s.
B 
I spent ~$450 for new wide
ratio tranny gears and sold my old close ratio gears for ~$200. The 2.72
rearend gears range from $20 to $90 and use a fine spline (26) pinion flange.
I paid $50 for my rearend gears and $90 for the flange. Naturally if you farm
out the labor, it will be more. But for less than $500 for parts, 1/10 the
cost of aB 5 speed, I have a 2.74 first gear and a .94 overdrive, with no
cutting up the car, no issues with the bellhousing, clutch, throwout bearing,
linkage, speedo cable, gear shift opening or drive shaft, and an unbreakable
toploader that can easily handle the torque of my 331 stroker motor.
B 
For
those who are interested in a wide ratio setup, here are the best prices I
have found:
http://www.allstategear.com/Toploader.htm
2nd - WT296-21A - $59.10
3rd - WT296-11A - $57.60
input - WT296-16BBB  - $82.10
cluster - WT296-8A -
$142.60
B 
http://toploadertransmissions.com/
2.90 1st - $125


Note: David
Kee no longer sells the 2.90 first gear, but Dan Williams does.
I found the
Dana 44 2.72 gears on Craigslist and eBay and the flange you can get from IWE
Rearends in Canada (you can use my name).


IWE Rear Ends Only
FREEB 888-433-4717B 
For those of us who donbt race open track and donbt
feel like dropping bcubic dollarsb for a 5 speed, yet who like everyday
street driving, to me this bpoor manbs overdriveb with the low first
gear is the best all around setup.



Gary Crandall
ext 1, Danelle
www.iwerearendsonly.com
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 12:32:58 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6URY2fJcP3rYd3TX6bXjoOmgK/XgADIr8g
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-08-08_06:2013-08-08,2013-08-08,1970-01-01
	signatures=0
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	engine=7.0.1-1305240000 definitions=main-1308080133
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Misc Questions - 1966 MK 1A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel
	I believe the hinge is plastic; part of the door - SS has a rebuild
kit and I believe there is a gasket to seal the door.
There is a drain tube that goes to the firewall and a duckbill drain
grommet.  They end at the firewall.

Defrost vents are just black.

License plate illumination bracket - mine is body color

Windshield frame - body color

Hood catch - natural - I believe mine has a zinc coating

Most original windshield washer bottles have discolored - nothing wrong with
that - if you want a new one SS has them
As long as your bottle fits into the bottle holder and does not leak its
good.   Bottle holder is painted a light blue.

Washer pump has 2 ports

Color wire diagram - I believe CAT had one but you need to be a member to
order
TigersUnited.com has wire diagrams - not sure if they are in color.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 10:11 AM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Misc Questions - 1966 MK 1A


Good Morning All
B
The MK 1A is progressing, paint and body work complete,
engine, mechanical, brakes are tested and complete b I hope, and with new
wiring harness.B  We are on to the under dash components and I have a few
questions. B
	1. The 2 intake vents from in front of the windshield pull air into
a plastic box under the dash.
	1. One door works fine, the other fell
out.B  How are the doors attached\secured to the plastic box?B  Is there a
gasket also that goes around the doors?
	2. There is a drain hole at the
bottom of each box b where do these route to? Do they also use one of the
duck bills at the fire wall end or where?
	3. A picture of the under dash,
windshield wiper motor, gears and blower motor would be VERY helpful. B
	1.
The defroster vents on the inside\top of dash b are these suppose to be
gloss black or painted a black wrinkle finish? B
	1. The rear license plate
has what I call an illumination bracket for 2 lights to shine up onto the
tag b is this suppose to be body color or something else? B
	1. Windshield
frame b is this suppose to be body color or something else?
B
	1. Hood
catch and cable release - is this supposed to be body color or something
else? B
	1. I have seen multiple windshield washer bottles b the one I have,
not in great shape, color wise is a round circle with bRootesb in the
middle with no colors b is this correct for the 1966 MK1A? B
	1. I have 3
windshield washer pumps b 1 with 3 plastic tips for the lines, 1 broken
tip, 1 with 2 plastic tips b I would surmise that one is inlet, 1 outlet b
then to a bTb.B  I even have a brand new pump, Rootes part # 5220827 which
has 2 plastic tips, which I guess would need a T as well b If a bTb is
required b metal or plastic and the size of the lines would be? B
	1. B I
know I found a website that had color 11 X 17 wiring diagrams for my 1973
MGB; is there such a wiring diagrams for the MK 1A Tigers? B
I know I asked a lot
of questions here but after start up and driving the Tiger with a MG midget
seat, not bolted in, I am a little excited to keep moving forward. B
As
always, thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
B
Regards,
Joel
Martin
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3209/6559 - Release Date: 08/08/13
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	<26805228D183EF4E9C6F4499BB55B05147CFF3AA@CINMBCNA10.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 11:20:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>
To: 'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a new David Kee Top Loader with a different set of gears. Basically a
tick lower first gear then the close ratio but not as much as the wide.
Stock Close Ratio in the Tiger
2.32          1.69          1.29          1.0
Stock Wide Ratio in the Tiger
2.78          1.93          1.36          1.0
My David Kee Ratios
2.44          1.69          1.29          1.0
 
If you
like to drive and do 'stuff' the close ratio is much more enjoyably from a
performance perspective IMO. My car has the close ratio now with stockish 260
and 13" tires, it's not that bad to get off the line, just takes a bit a care,
but never really intended the Tiger as a hole shot car due to tiny tires ;)
Like Mark said, think of all the parts in your system, 13" tires are tough to
find, 15" are easy and look good on a tiger so lots of factors if you plan on
doing anything in the future. Spend time with the calculators and try a bunch
of things like rear end ratios, gearbox's and tire size.  5 speed solves lots
of problems for the street driving, and might be a good thing for that, for
track don't think it has as much value and I like the way the top loaders
shift vs. T5 style gear boxes.
 
Sandy
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  8 12:30:39 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joel Martin'" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>, "'Tiger List Serve'"
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 14:26:57 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6URY2fJcP3rYd3TX6bXjoOmgK/XgAHW0yA
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Misc Questions - 1966 MK 1A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel
	There is a very nice color wire diagram for Alpine SV on this web
site.   Much of it is close to Tiger wiring.
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9919

The wire diagram @ TigersUnited is in color

http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/wsmN36.asp

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 10:11 AM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Misc Questions - 1966 MK 1A


Good Morning All
B
The MK 1A is progressing, paint and body work complete,
engine, mechanical, brakes are tested and complete b I hope, and with new
wiring harness.B  We are on to the under dash components and I have a few
questions. B
	1. The 2 intake vents from in front of the windshield pull air into
a plastic box under the dash.
	1. One door works fine, the other fell
out.B  How are the doors attached\secured to the plastic box?B  Is there a
gasket also that goes around the doors?
	2. There is a drain hole at the
bottom of each box b where do these route to? Do they also use one of the
duck bills at the fire wall end or where?
	3. A picture of the under dash,
windshield wiper motor, gears and blower motor would be VERY helpful. B
	1.
The defroster vents on the inside\top of dash b are these suppose to be
gloss black or painted a black wrinkle finish? B
	1. The rear license plate
has what I call an illumination bracket for 2 lights to shine up onto the
tag b is this suppose to be body color or something else? B
	1. Windshield
frame b is this suppose to be body color or something else?
B
	1. Hood
catch and cable release - is this supposed to be body color or something
else? B
	1. I have seen multiple windshield washer bottles b the one I have,
not in great shape, color wise is a round circle with bRootesb in the
middle with no colors b is this correct for the 1966 MK1A? B
	1. I have 3
windshield washer pumps b 1 with 3 plastic tips for the lines, 1 broken
tip, 1 with 2 plastic tips b I would surmise that one is inlet, 1 outlet b
then to a bTb.B  I even have a brand new pump, Rootes part # 5220827 which
has 2 plastic tips, which I guess would need a T as well b If a bTb is
required b metal or plastic and the size of the lines would be? B
	1. B I
know I found a website that had color 11 X 17 wiring diagrams for my 1973
MGB; is there such a wiring diagrams for the MK 1A Tigers? B
I know I asked a lot
of questions here but after start up and driving the Tiger with a MG midget
seat, not bolted in, I am a little excited to keep moving forward. B
As
always, thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
B
Regards,
Joel
Martin
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3209/6559 - Release Date: 08/08/13
_______________________________________________

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	<1375986057.71292.YahooMailNeo@web184405.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 13:07:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary <maliburevue@yahoo.com>
To: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>, 'Tiger's Den'
  <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Sandy,
 
I spoke to David about that setup. It's the 2.90 first gear
installed in the close ratio gear set. The 2.44 lower first gear helps off the
line, but not as much as the 2.78 or the 2.90 /2.72 combination (2.74).
Ironically the 5 speed has an even wider gear spread than the wide ratio, so
rpm drop between gears is even more difficult for a stockish engine. It's all
a compromise.
 
Gary
 
 

________________________________
From: Sandy Ganz
<sganz@pacbell.net>
To: 'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday,
August 8, 2013 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms


I have a new
David Kee Top Loader with a different set of gears. Basically a
tick lower
first gear then the close ratio but not as much as the wide.
Stock Close Ratio
in the Tiger
2.32          1.69          1.29          1.0
Stock Wide Ratio in
the Tiger
2.78          1.93          1.36          1.0
My David Kee Ratios
2.44          1.69          1.29          1.0

If you like to drive and do
'stuff' the close ratio is much more enjoyably from a
performance perspective
IMO. My car has the close ratio now with stockish 260
and 13" tires, it's not
that bad to get off the line, just takes a bit a care,
but never really
intended the Tiger as a hole shot car due to tiny tires ;)
Like Mark said,
think of all the parts in your system, 13" tires are tough to
find, 15" are
easy and look good on a tiger so lots of factors if you plan on
doing anything
in the future. Spend time with the calculators and try a bunch
of things like
rear end ratios, gearbox's and tire size.  5 speed solves lots
of problems for
the street driving, and might be a good thing for that, for
track don't think
it has as much value and I like the way the top loaders
shift vs. T5 style
gear boxes.

Sandy
_______________________________________________
tigers@autox.team.net

Archive:
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/maliburevue@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 20:20:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>
To: Gary <maliburevue@yahoo.com>, 'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, it's not like the lower gear of the wide ratio boxes but for the most
part I think time is spend more shifting through the gears then starting out.
It's not all that bad even with the close ratio gearbox that's in the car and
stock 260, so my goal was to have just a little better out of the hole but not
the main focus. I'll likely be running something like 15" rims with 225-50's
and something in the 3.54:1 if I use the D44 that I have in the car (have the
gears and diff to swap out). My intended use is not freeway or cruising so
having it buzz is not a concern. I also have a new 347 motor that winds up to
about 7200 so for track use all seems to be ok which is more the focus with
light street work to the Friday night malt shop. 
 
Might step back to a 3.23
but not sure since I have the 3.54 gear set. I had a Tremec TKO in another car
and hated the way it shifted and the gear ratios, I ditched that for a Tex
Racing T101 with close ratio and fell in love with the way the car drives
again. I have a spare T101 that I was going to cram into the tiger but the
gearbox is much larger and would be a sheet metal problem. 
 
David Kee was
very helpful when I called years ago and I think I have a good set up with the
2:44 first, but when I look at the numbers with a high numeric rear ratio even
the stock close ratio would be ok.
 
Sandy
 

________________________________
From: Gary <maliburevue@yahoo.com>
To: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>;
'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2013 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
  


Sandy, 
  
I spoke to David about
that setup. It's the 2.90 first gear installed in the close ratio gear
set. The 2.44 lower first gear helps off the line, but not as much as the 2.78
or the 2.90 /2.72 combination (2.74). Ironically the 5 speed has an even wider
gear spread than the wide ratio, so rpm drop between gears is even more
difficult for a stockish engine. It's all a compromise. 
  
Gary 
  
 
________________________________
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>
To:
'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2013 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gears and rpms
 

I have a new David Kee Top Loader with
a different set of gears. Basically a
tick lower first gear then the close
ratio but not as much as the wide.
Stock Close Ratio in the Tiger
2.32       
  1.69          1.29          1.0
Stock Wide Ratio in the Tiger
2.78         
1.93          1.36          1.0
My David Kee Ratios
2.44          1.69       
  1.29          1.0

If you like to drive and do 'stuff' the close ratio is
much more enjoyably from a
performance perspective IMO. My car has the close
ratio now with stockish 260
and 13" tires, it's not that bad to get off the
line, just takes a bit a care,
but never really intended
 the Tiger as a hole
shot car due to tiny tires ;)
Like Mark said, think of all the parts in your
system, 13" tires are tough to
find, 15" are easy and look good on a tiger so
lots of factors if you plan on
doing anything in the future. Spend time with
the calculators and try a bunch
of things like rear end ratios, gearbox's and
tire size.  5 speed solves lots
of problems for the street driving, and might
be a good thing for that, for
track don't think it has as much value and I
like the way the top loaders
shift vs. T5 style gear boxes.

Sandy
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 11 07:38:44 2013
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From: "Eric Gibeaut" <sunbeams@sc.rr.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4154.1375747634.2541.tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 09:30:24 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6SOup6V6DYYMgoR0e1ci+Wf8TxOQEWwkwQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Tigers] Celebrating the Alpine's 60th birthday at the TE/AE United
 Oct 10-13
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

This year's United celebrates 60 years of the Alpine with many special
events planned for Alpine owners! The location is St. Michaels,
Maryland-which is on the Eastern Shore.
The early registration cutoff date is August 15th and the block of reserved
hotel rooms expires then too.
Here is some more updated information-I hope that you can join us with your
Alpine, Tiger, Harrington, Hillman or any other Rootes car.
http://www.rootesamerica.org/


Celebrating 60 Years of the Alpine!
 Plans are shaping up well for United XXXII which will take place in
beautiful St. Michaels on Maryland's Eastern Shore October 10-13. St.
Michaels is a beautiful seaside town on the Chesapeake Bay with a nice
selection of shops, museums and restaurants. We've added some nice features
to this year's event including several special guests who will be spending
the weekend with us.
 Registration has been very strong and we're expecting a big turnout. Don't
forget, the early registration discount ends on August 15th as does our lock
on the hotel block of rooms. Register online at:
http://www.rootesamerica.org/

Our goal is to encourage as many Alpines as possible to attend and we've
created a special "Sprit of the Alpine" award. Alpines will be displayed
prominently at the Concours. Hagerty Insurance is sponsoring this award.

 The Historic Vehicle association / FIVA will be presenting a Preservation
Award given to the best preserved Rootes Group Vehicle so bring out those
unrestored, but well loved cars!

 SPECIAL GUESTS: Tim Suddard editor of Classic Motorsports and Grassroots
Motorsports will be our guest speaker at Sunday's banquet. (Tim restored a
Tiger chronicled in a series of articles and will actually be spending the
entire weekend with us. The club and United will be featured in an article
for the magazine). John Roseby is travelling from Great Britain to
participate. John is well known in Alpine circles for his restorations and
knowledge of Alpine transmissions, especially overdrive units. John will
present a tech session for all interested. Martha Wheat/Christiansen who
many may know for her excellent upholstery kits will also be here.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 11 13:57:43 2013
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From: "Stu Brennan" <stubrennan@comcast.net>
To: "Tiger Net" <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 15:54:00 -0400
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Subject: [Tigers] Brake Pads - Non Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I need opinions:  Are ceramic brake pads worth the higher price for daily 
driver street use?  Is there any effect on brake effort, or disk wear?  The 
application is my wife's Jeep Liberty.

Stu 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 11 15:03:18 2013
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From: "Sigma Engineering" <sigmaengr@carolina.rr.com>
To: "Tiger Net" <Tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <3EDC3FD6F38444759FED057D523005A3@sbrennanPC>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 16:57:31 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] LED Brake Lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi group,
What is the easiest/best/cheapest way to change over to LED brake lights?
Thanks in Advance,
Chris
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References: <3EDC3FD6F38444759FED057D523005A3@sbrennanPC>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 14:47:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>
To: Stu Brennan <stubrennan@comcast.net>, Tiger Net
  <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake Pads - Non Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Not sure if anything better the stock, but I have run them on my wifes SUV and
they seem to not make as much dirt on the rims. Other then that, hard to say
from my limited use if they last longer or stop better. I do know that the
carbon version that are around for passenger cars (I forget the brand) did
make a noticeable difference on my Diesel excursion when I switch from regular
stock pads. I have a set of the autozone lifetime ceramic pads sitting on the
shelf for the excursion when the carbon pads wear out, if you want to wait a
few months I'll let you know ;)
 
On thing I can say for sure is that autozone
rotors are not very good, gone through a few sets on different cars and they
seem to be 'soft' metal vs. stock or quality parts, so much so that I always
figure to toss the rotors when I change the pads. They are inexpensive and
almost a wash to have them turned.
 
Sandy
To: Tiger Net
<Tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2013 12:54 PM
Subject:
[Tigers] Brake Pads - Non Tiger
  

I need opinions:  Are ceramic brake pads
worth the higher price for daily driver street use?  Is there any effect on
brake effort, or disk wear?  The application is my wife's Jeep Liberty.

Stu
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 11 15:54:24 2013
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 14:52:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>
To: Sigma Engineering <sigmaengr@carolina.rr.com>, Tiger Net
	<Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] LED Brake Lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Swap the bulbs, see if it works. 
 
If the turn signals don't blink or blink
too fast you may need a resistor across the bulb for the turn signal circuit,
 
I think they sell an adapter for that. It's needed for mechanical/heat type
of flashers that rely on the higher current used by a 'filament' bulb. The LED
bulbs don't draw much power and will not cause the flasher to heat up to open
and close the contact.
 
The last thing you can do is use a 3 terminal flasher
that is not load sensitive. It's basically a 2 prong flasher with a flying
lead that you ground and works with any type of load. Check Waytek Wire for
them, I think that's where I got the last one.
 
A few ways to skin the cat.
Check the LED bulbs some may have the resistor built in.
 
Sandy
________________________________
 From: Sigma Engineering
<sigmaengr@carolina.rr.com>
To: Tiger Net <Tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Sunday, August 11, 2013 1:57 PM
Subject: [Tigers] LED Brake Lights
  

Hi
group,
What is the easiest/best/cheapest way to change over to LED brake
lights?
Thanks in Advance,
Chris
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 11 16:34:15 2013
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 15:33:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Slightly off topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

>From the 'that Tiger motor is in good company' department, come this auction
information...

"b" The 1963 Ferrari 250GT California Spyder replica used in
the 1986 film bFerris Buellerbs Day Offb will beB going up for
auctionB this summer. Nicknamed the Modena Spyder California, it was one of
three built by Modena Design and Development in El Cajon, Calif., and features
tube frame construction and a 500-horsepower small-block V-8 engine. Although
the car originally had a 1963 Ford 260-cubic-inch V-8, that engine has been
replaced with a 351 punched out to 427 cubic inches. Presale price estimates
are not yet available."
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 11 17:12:28 2013
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From: Landcmitch@aol.com
Full-name: Landcmitch
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 19:12:18 -0400 (EDT)
To: snakebit289@yahoo.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Slightly off topic
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, Mecum estimates $250 - $300 K
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/11/2013 3:34:19 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
snakebit289@yahoo.com writes:

>From the  'that Tiger motor is in good company' department, come this  
auction
information...

"b" The 1963 Ferrari 250GT California Spyder  replica used in
the 1986 film bFerris Buellerbs Day Offb will beB going  up for
auctionB this summer. Nicknamed the Modena Spyder California, it was  one of
three built by Modena Design and Development in El Cajon, Calif.,  and 
features
tube frame construction and a 500-horsepower small-block V-8  engine. 
Although
the car originally had a 1963 Ford 260-cubic-inch V-8,  that engine has been
replaced with a 351 punched out to 427 cubic inches.  Presale price 
estimates
are not yet  available."
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 09:55:23 2013
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From: "Lynn" <cars@wt-inc.com>
To: "'Sandy Ganz'" <sganz@pacbell.net>, "'Sigma Engineering'"
	<sigmaengr@carolina.rr.com>, "'Tiger Net'" <Tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <3EDC3FD6F38444759FED057D523005A3@sbrennanPC>
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 09:55:02 -0600
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	to false
Subject: Re: [Tigers] LED Brake Lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Make sure you buy "omni" directional LED bulbs.  They will appear brighter
and will reflect off the housing.  "uni" directional bulbs only shine
outward so they are very dim to drivers behind you.

Try the following link:
http://www.lbcarco.com/cgi-bin/gen5?nextform=/orderinprogress.html&o=6931228
.23319165113&p=

It might get you started.

Lynn

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Sandy Ganz
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2013 3:53 PM
To: Sigma Engineering; Tiger Net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] LED Brake Lights

Swap the bulbs, see if it works. 
 
If the turn signals don't blink or blink too fast you may need a resistor
across the bulb for the turn signal circuit,
 
I think they sell an adapter for that. It's needed for mechanical/heat type
of flashers that rely on the higher current used by a 'filament' bulb. The
LED bulbs don't draw much power and will not cause the flasher to heat up to
open and close the contact.

 
The last thing you can do is use a 3 terminal flasher that is not load
sensitive. It's basically a 2 prong flasher with a flying lead that you
ground and works with any type of load. Check Waytek Wire for them, I think
that's where I got the last one.
 
A few ways to skin the cat.
Check the LED bulbs some may have the resistor built in.
 
Sandy
________________________________
 From: Sigma Engineering
<sigmaengr@carolina.rr.com>
To: Tiger Net <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent:
Sunday, August 11, 2013 1:57 PM
Subject: [Tigers] LED Brake Lights
  

Hi
group,
What is the easiest/best/cheapest way to change over to LED brake
lights?
Thanks in Advance,
Chris
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 10:13:04 2013
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From: "Taylor, Matthew" <MTaylor@ea.com>
To: Tigers List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: A great issue of Tiger Tracks
Thread-Index: Ac6Xdh3BaHn64ZHjR3GjwgH5A9pZkQ==
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 16:12:39 +0000
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Subject: [Tigers] A great issue of Tiger Tracks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

A previous issue is on eBay for those that are not currently members of STOA.
Great magazine/newsletter with lots of Tiger content and tech.  40 Pages!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161084698055?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m
1423.l2649

Or eBay item # 161084698055

There is also a link to STOA's new website.  If you sign up for membership,
you can view the first four issues online (merchandise coming soon).  See the
ebay listing for more info.

Matthew
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 10:37:07 2013
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From: H B Elam <harryb@elams.org>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 12:33:33 -0400
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] LED lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris, Sandy,  I bought direct plug-in replacements for the 1157's that were
in my Tiger. Less current and bright enough to lessen my worries when
flat-towing at night. Got mine at N O'Reilly's in South Boston, Va.
Harry Elam
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 10:19:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Frozen Calipers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,

I have been trying to remove my Tiger's front calipers after 30
years in storage. The bolts are frozen so badly that I have been unable to cut
the rust, even after using 4 brands of rust cutting chemicals, including
industrial strength stuff. Even after a week or more of sitting, still
frozen. 

Anybody got any recommendations? 

Will TR-6 calipers bolt in?

Carl
Halgren
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 11:53:17 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Carl Halgren'" <cghalgren@yahoo.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 13:51:07 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6XgMu71N244wE/TbGEV2UTkI3YnAAATX0g
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Frozen Calipers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl
	You need to heat the bolts and probably the casting the bolt goes
through if nothing else is working.

I only have a propane torch to heat with and that should work for you but it
will take time.

Turn the bolt while it is hot; if it turns apply ATF and keep turning if it
stops turning apply heat until it turns again, if it does not turn at all
apply more heat.

Torque to install those bolts is 60 ft lbs

I only use ATF to loosen bolts; it mostly just smokes when hot but it can
flare up so be aware and have a way to extinguish any of the products you
already applied to those bolts when you use heat.

I like to heat some then apply ATF and let it set a few minutes.  The heat
will help suck the ATF into the bolt area and the rust.

The top bolt has about an inch of shoulder that could be rusted to
everything; the lower bolt has less shoulder but is probably rusted the same
way.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Carl Halgren
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 1:20 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Frozen Calipers


Listers,

I have been trying to remove my Tiger's front calipers after 30 years in
storage. The bolts are frozen so badly that I have been unable to cut the
rust, even after using 4 brands of rust cutting chemicals, including
industrial strength stuff. Even after a week or more of sitting, still
frozen.

Anybody got any recommendations?

Will TR-6 calipers bolt in?

Carl
Halgren
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 11:58:49 2013
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From: "Sigma Engineering" <sigmaengr@carolina.rr.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <FA395AE7-8927-4A2E-B57D-BD99ADFEEE08@elams.org>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 13:58:37 -0400
Subject: Re: [Tigers] LED lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all that responded.  I order some LED replacements & an electronic 
flasher today.
chris

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "H B Elam" <harryb@elams.org>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 12:33 PM
Subject: [Tigers] LED lights


> Chris, Sandy,  I bought direct plug-in replacements for the 1157's that 
> were
> in my Tiger. Less current and bright enough to lessen my worries when
> flat-towing at night. Got mine at N O'Reilly's in South Boston, Va.
> Harry Elam
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sigmaengr@carolina.rr.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 13:28:26 2013
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From: Brent Edinger <banana111@msn.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 12:28:17 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 277
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Let us know how they work out.

 Thanks,  Brent




> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 13:58:37 -0400
> From: "Sigma Engineering" <sigmaengr@carolina.rr.com>
> To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] LED lights
> Message-ID: <2D809DBB666F4EDC8F4A4C000FDA3D5B@D32K5JC1>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
>
> Thanks to all that responded.  I order some LED replacements & an electronic
> flasher today.
> chris
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 14:57:59 2013
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References: <1376327976.49501.YahooMailNeo@web142605.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 13:55:43 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Frozen Calipers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Everyone has their special chemicals.  I bought a can that I can't get over
the counter that I've had work when all others have failed.  If you are in
So. Cal., you can have some.

One other thing to do is to apply force on the bolt while banging on the
base with the threaded hole.  The twist and shock can help bring it free.
The best is the be able to bang on opposite ends of the base at once.  But,
I don't think there is room on this one for that.  Also, I realize how
close quarters this is.  It's hard enough to get a wrench in there, let
along bang away with and hammer.  This task probably really needs two
people, which is even harder in the confined location.

You may consider pulling off the entire axle and taking it to a shop with
an impact wrench.  Or maybe it's finally time to break down and buy that
compresser and impact wrench you've always wanted.  Then again, I'm not
sure an impact wrench will fit in there.

Personally, I've never been able to get anything hot enough to seem to make
a difference.  Maybe I need more than the butane torch I got at the local
hardware store.

Finally, if you are in California, please be sure that car has lots of
heavy duty stuff underneath it so that all this banging doesn't knock the
car off the jack stands and on to you!!!!




On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 10:19 AM, Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I have been trying to remove my Tiger's front calipers after 30
> years in storage. The bolts are frozen so badly that I have been unable to
> cut
> the rust, even after using 4 brands of rust cutting chemicals, including
> industrial strength stuff. Even after a week or more of sitting, still
> frozen.
>
> Anybody got any recommendations?
>
> Will TR-6 calipers bolt in?
>
> Carl
> Halgren
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
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	XKcokI5RyS0RFZF+8MzsRh0YpzUMdFg31FpQxvYc=
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Subject: [Tigers] generator, Ford part number
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,
 
Anybody know the correct Ford part number for a Tiger generator ?
 
BTW: my car is a late Mk 1A
 
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 13:07:32 2013
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 11:59:37 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Monterey This Weekend
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know about anyone else, but I am currently planning on being up at
Laguna Seca with my two sons.  Since all three of us can't fit in the
Tiger, we'll be in a bright green 1973 911, camping on the ridge looking
down the main straight.

We'll certainly be spending a lot of time in the paddock, and wherever
Tigers are.  We'll also be helping out pitting for a racing 914.

Jay
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 14:02:12 -0500
From: Cullen McCann <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Wire Wheel Tubes???!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok Team, I have a minor emergency and you are the first resource I think
of. I have a series V alpine that I sold and it has wire wheels with knock
offs on it.  the tires are trash, and i assume the tubes are too because
they go flat in minutes. I have extra tires for the car but need tubes for
a factory sunbeam wire wheel. I havent called any of the local stores yet,
but do you expect any retail or shops in an average us metropolitan city to
sell tubes for a 13" wheel?

lastly, should I shoot myself now or later?

Thanks guys,

Cullen
1452 LROFE TAC 840
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 13:53:46 2013
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From: "Buck Trippel" <BuckTrippel@Verizon.net>
To: "Jay Laifman" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>,	"Tiger's Den"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <CAAjp1z5XC0D0sFjfN2+Hido3PxjBjnAVnxiWcF7TribknJcbUw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 12:52:06 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Monterey This Weekend
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay,

Our Tiger is in Pit E26 with Steve Sorensen's next door in pit E28.

We have two qualification sessions - Thursday at 10:30 and Friday at 10:10.

Then we race twice on Saturday - Qualifying race at 10:10 and then the main 
race at 2:40.

We don't run on Sunday.

Don't forget there's a Tiger lunch at 1pm on Thursday at the Baja Cantina in 
Monterey.

See you at the track.

Buck Trippel


-----Original Message----- 
From: Jay Laifman
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 11:59 AM
To: Tiger's Den
Subject: [Tigers] Monterey This Weekend

I don't know about anyone else, but I am currently planning on being up at
Laguna Seca with my two sons.  Since all three of us can't fit in the
Tiger, we'll be in a bright green 1973 911, camping on the ridge looking
down the main straight.

We'll certainly be spending a lot of time in the paddock, and wherever
Tigers are.  We'll also be helping out pitting for a racing 914.

Jay 
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 14:14:32 2013
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From: "jim" <jim@island.net>
To: "'Cullen McCann'" <cmccann1972@gmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <CAFwr-MVCxG20Z6KgdVef=9opHs7rmUh8yCZZkfPU95PCAcpS5w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 13:13:19 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6YWGgEx6wwds3GS8WCPJWppx0OFAAByhpw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Wire Wheel Tubes???!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Cullen

 I needed a new tube for one of the 13" wire wheel on my wife's Sprite last
year and my local tire shop had one in stock no problem... ( pop. 20k with 5
tire shops including Wallyworld !)

Interesting story, though... She's had the car with those same tires for
many years and they probably had around 22-25 lbs. of air in them ( light
car! ) but last year I was topping them up and put in about 30 lbs. .
Shortly after, one went flat! I took it down to the local shop and the tire
guy pointed out a couple of issues. The first one was that there was a 12"
tube on the rim! The other was... upon close examination, there was a small
rough spot on the outside of the tube where it was leaking and he pointed
out that often a tire will have one or two small stickers on the inside!
Sure enough, there was a sticker ( paper thin! ) about 3/8" X 3/4" on the
inside opposite the tread and we are now surmising that the years of
abrasion on that sticker plus the overstretched 12" tube plus the slight
increase in tire pressure led to the failure !!

Who knew??


Jim
B382000446


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Cullen McCann
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:02 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Wire Wheel Tubes???!!!

Ok Team, I have a minor emergency and you are the first resource I think of.
I have a series V alpine that I sold and it has wire wheels with knock offs
on it.  the tires are trash, and i assume the tubes are too because they go
flat in minutes. I have extra tires for the car but need tubes for a factory
sunbeam wire wheel. I havent called any of the local stores yet, but do you
expect any retail or shops in an average us metropolitan city to sell tubes
for a 13" wheel?

lastly, should I shoot myself now or later?

Thanks guys,

Cullen
1452 LROFE TAC 840
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 14:27:50 2013
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	<016f01ce9861$8e75af50$ab610df0$@net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 15:27:42 -0500
From: Cullen McCann <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
To: jim <jim@island.net>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Wire Wheel Tubes???!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Jim...what weird story. fun to read. Well even since I posted the
question, your right, a local shop said they could have them in stock by
tomorrow.... 15 bucks a piece. so...looks like a deal. I will check the
paper / protective layer on the wires, for sure!

Thank you!
Cullen


On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 3:13 PM, jim <jim@island.net> wrote:

> Hi Cullen
>
>  I needed a new tube for one of the 13" wire wheel on my wife's Sprite last
> year and my local tire shop had one in stock no problem... ( pop. 20k with
> 5
> tire shops including Wallyworld !)
>
> Interesting story, though... She's had the car with those same tires for
> many years and they probably had around 22-25 lbs. of air in them ( light
> car! ) but last year I was topping them up and put in about 30 lbs. .
> Shortly after, one went flat! I took it down to the local shop and the tire
> guy pointed out a couple of issues. The first one was that there was a 12"
> tube on the rim! The other was... upon close examination, there was a small
> rough spot on the outside of the tube where it was leaking and he pointed
> out that often a tire will have one or two small stickers on the inside!
> Sure enough, there was a sticker ( paper thin! ) about 3/8" X 3/4" on the
> inside opposite the tread and we are now surmising that the years of
> abrasion on that sticker plus the overstretched 12" tube plus the slight
> increase in tire pressure led to the failure !!
>
> Who knew??
>
>
> Jim
> B382000446
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Cullen McCann
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:02 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Wire Wheel Tubes???!!!
>
> Ok Team, I have a minor emergency and you are the first resource I think
> of.
> I have a series V alpine that I sold and it has wire wheels with knock offs
> on it.  the tires are trash, and i assume the tubes are too because they go
> flat in minutes. I have extra tires for the car but need tubes for a
> factory
> sunbeam wire wheel. I havent called any of the local stores yet, but do you
> expect any retail or shops in an average us metropolitan city to sell tubes
> for a 13" wheel?
>
> lastly, should I shoot myself now or later?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Cullen
> 1452 LROFE TAC 840
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 08:50:30 2013
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 14:49:37 +0000
From: "Clyde McLaughlin" <clydemclaughlin@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>,<tigers-request@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 278
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

the tool you need for rusty frozen bolts is an inductive frameless
system..brand name mini doctor..it's great...the propane is a waste of time
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

------Original Message------
From: <tigers-request@autox.team.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:00:03 PM GMT-0600
Subject: Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 278

Send Tigers mailing list submissions to
	tigers@autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	tigers-request@autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
	tigers-owner@autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Tigers digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 277 (Brent Edinger)
   2. Re: Frozen Calipers (Jay Laifman)
   3. generator, Ford part number (Rollright@aol.com)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 12:28:17 -0700
From: Brent Edinger <banana111@msn.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 277

Let us know how they work out.

 Thanks,  Brent




> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 13:58:37 -0400
> From: "Sigma Engineering" <sigmaengr@carolina.rr.com>
> To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] LED lights
> Message-ID: <2D809DBB666F4EDC8F4A4C000FDA3D5B@D32K5JC1>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
>
> Thanks to all that responded.  I order some LED replacements & an
electronic
> flasher today.
> chris


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 13:55:43 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Frozen Calipers
Message-ID:
	<CAAjp1z7Oo6nJ3j=QRt_x0cG9LESw1ggVHNYN1NnXdBqBaA9biQ@mail.gmail.com>

Everyone has their special chemicals.  I bought a can that I can't get over
the counter that I've had work when all others have failed.  If you are in
So. Cal., you can have some.

One other thing to do is to apply force on the bolt while banging on the
base with the threaded hole.  The twist and shock can help bring it free.
The best is the be able to bang on opposite ends of the base at once.  But,
I don't think there is room on this one for that.  Also, I realize how
close quarters this is.  It's hard enough to get a wrench in there, let
along bang away with and hammer.  This task probably really needs two
people, which is even harder in the confined location.

You may consider pulling off the entire axle and taking it to a shop with
an impact wrench.  Or maybe it's finally time to break down and buy that
compresser and impact wrench you've always wanted.  Then again, I'm not
sure an impact wrench will fit in there.

Personally, I've never been able to get anything hot enough to seem to make
a difference.  Maybe I need more than the butane torch I got at the local
hardware store.

Finally, if you are in California, please be sure that car has lots of
heavy duty stuff underneath it so that all this banging doesn't knock the
car off the jack stands and on to you!!!!




On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 10:19 AM, Carl Halgren <cghalgren@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I have been trying to remove my Tiger's front calipers after 30
> years in storage. The bolts are frozen so badly that I have been unable to
> cut
> the rust, even after using 4 brands of rust cutting chemicals, including
> industrial strength stuff. Even after a week or more of sitting, still
> frozen.
>
> Anybody got any recommendations?
>
> Will TR-6 calipers bolt in?
>
> Carl
> Halgren
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 13:38:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rollright@aol.com
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] generator, Ford part number

Hello,

Anybody know the correct Ford part number for a Tiger generator ?

BTW: my car is a late Mk 1A



Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A
382002083
LRXFE


------------------------------

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End of Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 278
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From: Greg Koss <Greg.Koss@TRW.COM>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>,
	"tigers-request@autox.team.net" <tigers-request@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 278
Thread-Index: AQHOmP2nCAGjxIxGnUGKrkbkt1qRYpmUzE8w
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 15:02:39 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 278
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MINI-DUCTOR(r) II

http://www.theinductor.com/index.php

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Clyde McLaughlin
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 10:50 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net; tigers-request@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 278

the tool you need for rusty frozen bolts is an inductive frameless
system..brand name mini doctor..it's great...the propane is a waste of time
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
_______________________________________________

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From: Greg Koss <Greg.Koss@TRW.COM>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 278
Thread-Index: AQHOmP2nCAGjxIxGnUGKrkbkt1qRYpmUzcWg
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 278
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MINI-DUCTOR(r) II

http://www.theinductor.com/index.php

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Clyde McLaughlin
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 10:50 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net; tigers-request@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 278

the tool you need for rusty frozen bolts is an inductive frameless
system..brand name mini doctor..it's great...the propane is a waste of time
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From: "Will Seay" <wseay@embarqmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <100d4b.5d69580a.3f3bc911@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 12:28:50 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] generator, Ford part number
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Jim,

I have attached a picture of the original generator out of B382001570.  Note
that I masked the original P/N stenciling before repainting.  In case you can't
read the number from the picture, it's C40F-10000-A.  I expect that this is the
correct number for your 1A too.  You should note that the parts book lists
separate numbers for the generator and for the pulley - the Tiger pulley isn't
the same as for the standard Ford 260 generator.  Numbers from the parts book
are: CITZ-10002-A for generator, C20F-10130-A for the pulley.  The workshop
manual lists C20F-10000-G, presumably for the generator/pulley assembly.  The
workshop manual covers both MK1 and 1A but lists only one P/N.  I expect the C2
number was for the MK1 and the C4 number is for the MK1A.


Will Seay_____________
wseay@embarqmail.com
"I think not therefore I am not" (anon)


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rollright@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 1:38 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] generator, Ford part number

Hello,
 
Anybody know the correct Ford part number for a Tiger generator ?
 
BTW: my car is a late Mk 1A
 
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE 
_______________________________________________

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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 09:30:37 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
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Subject: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok, so  a few weeks ago, I asked about alternative motors for the WFS 
version 2014.  I received a plethora of suggestions (don't you just love 
that word!) and some ver pretty dang good. But, while surfing this 
morning I remembered a motor that may fit the bill better and has some 
performance parts support. That is the 1988 SHO V6 which produced good 
power, over 200, and can be mounted longitudinally.  It shares a bell 
housing pattern with the Vulcan V6 motor. And is it just under 3 litres 
displacement and conveniently uses the EEC IV efi system and it might be 
cheaper than the national debt.  It is a DOHC motor but with a 60 degree 
bank angle so it will likely fit. And although it is a Yamaha, if comes 
from Ford so falls in my list of druthers for Ford stuff.

The trick now, is to find one that  can be bought complete for a song or 
at least a loud yodel.  Anybody have a clue as to where I might start 
looking for one or two of them?  Might even turn out to be a good 
transplant for either a Tiger or Alpine... Of course, a manual trans 
version would be lovely also as I am tired of wrestling with my AOD 
trans good as it is... it is large....

And I have thought of stretching the wheel base for next time... 130 
inches vs 90 sure seems better for salt racing stability.

Went to the salt, Mon, Tues and yesterday for a look see. Salt is poor.  
very bumpy, lots of soft spots and more spin outs in the day and a half 
I was there that most of the meets I have been to combined! Lots of 
broken motors and car parts. If it does not rain and smooth things out, 
it will be a tough go.  On a side note, my new F350 King Ranch Dually 
tow truck was a marvel..once even hit 95 mph, ahem, passing a big 
truck....  and still got 16.7 overall mpg up and back and around town....

shoot me considerations for the SHO motor, 1988 specific and a manual 
trans set up for same....

mayf

  
______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed
_______________________________________________

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From: "Will Seay" <wseay@embarqmail.com>
To: "'Cullen McCann'" <cmccann1972@gmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <CAFwr-MVCxG20Z6KgdVef=9opHs7rmUh8yCZZkfPU95PCAcpS5w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 12:41:57 -0400
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Wire Wheel Tubes???!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Cullen,

Way back when, I used to run tubes in the tires for my Tiger.  That was before I
came to trust tubeless tires.  Back then they made a special heavy-duty
(thicker) tube for radial tires.  The radials flex more than bias-ply tires and
therefore are harder on the tubes.  If you find a tube, make sure that it's OK
for radials, that's assuming that your tires are radials.

Good luck on your tube quest, shoot-now may still be your best option.

Will Seay_____________
wseay@embarqmail.com
"I think not therefore I am not" (anon)


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Cullen McCann
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 3:02 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Wire Wheel Tubes???!!!

Ok Team, I have a minor emergency and you are the first resource I think of. I
have a series V alpine that I sold and it has wire wheels with knock offs on it.
the tires are trash, and i assume the tubes are too because they go flat in
minutes. I have extra tires for the car but need tubes for a factory sunbeam
wire wheel. I havent called any of the local stores yet, but do you expect any
retail or shops in an average us metropolitan city to sell tubes for a 13"
wheel?

lastly, should I shoot myself now or later?

Thanks guys,

Cullen
1452 LROFE TAC 840
_______________________________________________

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References: <520D022D.4000602@mayfco.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 12:46:06 -0400
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
To: "<drmayf@mayfco.com>" <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hit hemmings, ebay and craigslist for an old  Taurus
and rebuilt it ( that will be fun).

Michael shortt
On Aug 15, 2013 12:31 PM, "Larry Mayfield" <drmayf@mayfco.com> wrote:

> Ok, so  a few weeks ago, I asked about alternative motors for the WFS
> version 2014.  I received a plethora of suggestions (don't you just love
> that word!) and some ver pretty dang good. But, while surfing this morning
> I remembered a motor that may fit the bill better and has some performance
> parts support. That is the 1988 SHO V6 which produced good power, over 200,
> and can be mounted longitudinally.  It shares a bell housing pattern with
> the Vulcan V6 motor. And is it just under 3 litres displacement and
> conveniently uses the EEC IV efi system and it might be cheaper than the
> national debt.  It is a DOHC motor but with a 60 degree bank angle so it
> will likely fit. And although it is a Yamaha, if comes from Ford so falls
> in my list of druthers for Ford stuff.
>
> The trick now, is to find one that  can be bought complete for a song or
> at least a loud yodel.  Anybody have a clue as to where I might start
> looking for one or two of them?  Might even turn out to be a good
> transplant for either a Tiger or Alpine... Of course, a manual trans
> version would be lovely also as I am tired of wrestling with my AOD trans
> good as it is... it is large....
>
> And I have thought of stretching the wheel base for next time... 130
> inches vs 90 sure seems better for salt racing stability.
>
> Went to the salt, Mon, Tues and yesterday for a look see. Salt is poor.
>  very bumpy, lots of soft spots and more spin outs in the day and a half I
> was there that most of the meets I have been to combined! Lots of broken
> motors and car parts. If it does not rain and smooth things out, it will be
> a tough go.  On a side note, my new F350 King Ranch Dually tow truck was a
> marvel..once even hit 95 mph, ahem, passing a big truck....  and still got
> 16.7 overall mpg up and back and around town....
>
> shoot me considerations for the SHO motor, 1988 specific and a manual
> trans set up for same....
>
> mayf
>
>  ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/tigers/michael@**
> michaelshortt.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com>
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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 10:21:02 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Will Seay <wseay@embarqmail.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Wire Wheel Tubes???!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Last time I got my tires changed on my Alpine with wires, the shop had
them, no problem.  This was within the last 8 years.

This is in Agoura Hills, California.


On Thu, Aug 15, 2013 at 9:41 AM, Will Seay <wseay@embarqmail.com> wrote:

> Cullen,
>
> Way back when, I used to run tubes in the tires for my Tiger.  That was
> before I
> came to trust tubeless tires.  Back then they made a special heavy-duty
> (thicker) tube for radial tires.  The radials flex more than bias-ply
> tires and
> therefore are harder on the tubes.  If you find a tube, make sure that
> it's OK
> for radials, that's assuming that your tires are radials.
>
> Good luck on your tube quest, shoot-now may still be your best option.
>
> Will Seay_____________
> wseay@embarqmail.com
> "I think not therefore I am not" (anon)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of Cullen McCann
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 3:02 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Wire Wheel Tubes???!!!
>
> Ok Team, I have a minor emergency and you are the first resource I think
> of. I
> have a series V alpine that I sold and it has wire wheels with knock offs
> on it.
> the tires are trash, and i assume the tubes are too because they go flat in
> minutes. I have extra tires for the car but need tubes for a factory
> sunbeam
> wire wheel. I havent called any of the local stores yet, but do you expect
> any
> retail or shops in an average us metropolitan city to sell tubes for a 13"
> wheel?
>
> lastly, should I shoot myself now or later?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Cullen
> 1452 LROFE TAC 840
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wseay@embarqmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 12:51:02 -0500
From: Cullen McCann <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
To: Will Seay <wseay@embarqmail.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Wire Wheel Tubes???!!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Will and everyone for the thoughts. I was able to find a local shop
who said they could have the set of 4 tubes in overnight by special order.
The tires I had were several years old and used but they mounted up find. I
didnt pester them much on the details as this little series V alpine was
just passing through. I only mounted up the tires so i could keep it
rolling onto the dudes trailer that bought it. I bought the car out of the
dallas area for its hardtop. ( found the car on craigslist for 1500 bucks
with a complete, rust free hardtop, with ALL trim included even the little
clips on the back that joined the rear window trim. It needs full resto but
its complete and straight. I bought the car, kept the top and sold the car
for another 500 bucks over what i paid. whoooo hoo!  so i scored a nice
hardtop and made a few bucks. the alpine itself had some rust in the floor
boards and some body damage, but could be saved. I dont need another beam
so I sent it down the road via ePay. thanks for all the help everyone on
the little adventure.

Cullen
Alpine 260
TAC 840


On Thu, Aug 15, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Will Seay <wseay@embarqmail.com> wrote:

> Cullen,
>
> Way back when, I used to run tubes in the tires for my Tiger.  That was
> before I
> came to trust tubeless tires.  Back then they made a special heavy-duty
> (thicker) tube for radial tires.  The radials flex more than bias-ply
> tires and
> therefore are harder on the tubes.  If you find a tube, make sure that
> it's OK
> for radials, that's assuming that your tires are radials.
>
> Good luck on your tube quest, shoot-now may still be your best option.
>
> Will Seay_____________
> wseay@embarqmail.com
> "I think not therefore I am not" (anon)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of Cullen McCann
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 3:02 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Wire Wheel Tubes???!!!
>
> Ok Team, I have a minor emergency and you are the first resource I think
> of. I
> have a series V alpine that I sold and it has wire wheels with knock offs
> on it.
> the tires are trash, and i assume the tubes are too because they go flat in
> minutes. I have extra tires for the car but need tubes for a factory
> sunbeam
> wire wheel. I havent called any of the local stores yet, but do you expect
> any
> retail or shops in an average us metropolitan city to sell tubes for a 13"
> wheel?
>
> lastly, should I shoot myself now or later?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Cullen
> 1452 LROFE TAC 840
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wseay@embarqmail.com
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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: "drmayf@mayfco.com" <drmayf@mayfco.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
Thread-Index: AQHOmdTrmv6Jx7GxFk6ccXYrfPkFGZmWlnQg
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 18:58:30 +0000
References: <520D022D.4000602@mayfco.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
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	FILETIME=[7474E290:01CE99E9]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ah, SHO Taurus, my green 1991 was the only car I have ever owned that was
bought back under our state's Lemon Law. Great engine, everything attached to
it was a POS. Be aware that the later automatic cars ('92 - on?) were 3.2
liter, you need to find a manual tranny version to stay under that magical 3.0
liter bogie.

As a side note I bought a '96 SHO 3.4 liter V-8 engine, also a 60 degree
layout, out of a low mileage junker several years ago to use as a potential
engine swap into something small and Miata-like. Did not know at the time
about the cam sprocket loosening issues, this engine had fallen victim and
most of the valves were tweeked so it became a nice piece of scrap metal. It
was a neat little engine, too bad.

Here's a '89 SHO 3.0 liter in Vegas:
http://www.automotix.net/usedengines/1989-ford-taurus-inventory.html?fit_note
s=7a834fbaf84c4cf74707388f1af6a757&seq_num=3

And a Depends-load of '91 3.0 automatics around the country:
http://www.automotix.net/usedengines/1991-ford-taurus-inventory.html?fit_note
s=53018f94eded282c47f29ae44a6e472d&seq_num=2

Good hunting!

Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 12:31 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate

Ok, so  a few weeks ago, I asked about alternative motors for the WFS version
2014.  I received a plethora of suggestions (don't you just love that word!)
and some ver pretty dang good. But, while surfing this morning I remembered a
motor that may fit the bill better and has some performance parts support.
That is the 1988 SHO V6 which produced good power, over 200, and can be
mounted longitudinally.  It shares a bell housing pattern with the Vulcan V6
motor. And is it just under 3 litres displacement and conveniently uses the
EEC IV efi system and it might be cheaper than the national debt.  It is a
DOHC motor but with a 60 degree bank angle so it will likely fit. And although
it is a Yamaha, if comes from Ford so falls in my list of druthers for Ford
stuff.

The trick now, is to find one that  can be bought complete for a song or at
least a loud yodel.  Anybody have a clue as to where I might start looking for
one or two of them?  Might even turn out to be a good transplant for either a
Tiger or Alpine... Of course, a manual trans version would be lovely also as I
am tired of wrestling with my AOD trans good as it is... it is large....

And I have thought of stretching the wheel base for next time... 130 inches vs
90 sure seems better for salt racing stability.

Went to the salt, Mon, Tues and yesterday for a look see. Salt is poor.
very bumpy, lots of soft spots and more spin outs in the day and a half I was
there that most of the meets I have been to combined! Lots of broken motors
and car parts. If it does not rain and smooth things out, it will be a tough
go.  On a side note, my new F350 King Ranch Dually tow truck was a
marvel..once even hit 95 mph, ahem, passing a big truck....  and still got
16.7 overall mpg up and back and around town....

shoot me considerations for the SHO motor, 1988 specific and a manual trans
set up for same....

mayf
_______________________________________________

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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Will Seay'" <wseay@embarqmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 15:35:14 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6YTub0o4P4OTNlReaDqtnVmkqf+wBhUOcwAAXDdiA=
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-08-15_08:2013-08-15,2013-08-15,1970-01-01
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] generator, Ford part number
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The C2OF-10000-G is for a generator with a 1 sheave pulley.

Most Ford generators are the 15V, 30 amp type.

The number stamped on the generator I believe follows the Ford Model year.

It is possible that a few C2OF-1000-G generator were used very early in the
MkI but since the Tiger engine production started in the 1964 model year,
Aug 1963.  I believe the Tiger generator were all marked C4OF-10000-A but I
do not have any details to totally support that statement.

I did not looked at this point in my Original Engine Study. My guess most
original generators were replaced or rebuilt and the number stamp long gone.
Its always good to see new information about the original Tiger engine
configuration pop up.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Will Seay
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 12:29 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] generator, Ford part number


Jim,

I have attached a picture of the original generator out of B382001570.  Note
that I masked the original P/N stenciling before repainting.  In case you
can't read the number from the picture, it's C40F-10000-A.  I expect that
this is the correct number for your 1A too.  You should note that the parts
book lists separate numbers for the generator and for the pulley - the Tiger
pulley isn't the same as for the standard Ford 260 generator.  Numbers from
the parts book
are: CITZ-10002-A for generator, C20F-10130-A for the pulley.  The workshop
manual lists C20F-10000-G, presumably for the generator/pulley assembly.
The workshop manual covers both MK1 and 1A but lists only one P/N.  I expect
the C2 number was for the MK1 and the C4 number is for the MK1A.


Will Seay_____________
wseay@embarqmail.com
"I think not therefore I am not" (anon)


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rollright@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 1:38 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] generator, Ford part number

Hello,

Anybody know the correct Ford part number for a Tiger generator ?

BTW: my car is a late Mk 1A



Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A
382002083
LRXFE
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 13:45:52 2013
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References: <520D022D.4000602@mayfco.com>
	<26805228D183EF4E9C6F4499BB55B05147D000E3@CINMBCNA10.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 15:45:28 -0400
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
To: "Mark Rense, (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay Leno has one attached to a Transaxle in the back seat of a Ford
Festevia(sp), it was called a Shogun. Very Limited Production, looks a bit
like a Renault R5.

Michael Shortt
On Aug 15, 2013 2:59 PM, "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
wrote:

> Ah, SHO Taurus, my green 1991 was the only car I have ever owned that was
> bought back under our state's Lemon Law. Great engine, everything attached
> to
> it was a POS. Be aware that the later automatic cars ('92 - on?) were 3.2
> liter, you need to find a manual tranny version to stay under that magical
> 3.0
> liter bogie.
>
> As a side note I bought a '96 SHO 3.4 liter V-8 engine, also a 60 degree
> layout, out of a low mileage junker several years ago to use as a potential
> engine swap into something small and Miata-like. Did not know at the time
> about the cam sprocket loosening issues, this engine had fallen victim and
> most of the valves were tweeked so it became a nice piece of scrap metal.
> It
> was a neat little engine, too bad.
>
> Here's a '89 SHO 3.0 liter in Vegas:
>
> http://www.automotix.net/usedengines/1989-ford-taurus-inventory.html?fit_note
> s=7a834fbaf84c4cf74707388f1af6a757&seq_num=3
>
> And a Depends-load of '91 3.0 automatics around the country:
>
> http://www.automotix.net/usedengines/1991-ford-taurus-inventory.html?fit_note
> s=53018f94eded282c47f29ae44a6e472d&seq_num=2
>
> Good hunting!
>
> Bugz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
> Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 12:31 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
>
> Ok, so  a few weeks ago, I asked about alternative motors for the WFS
> version
> 2014.  I received a plethora of suggestions (don't you just love that
> word!)
> and some ver pretty dang good. But, while surfing this morning I
> remembered a
> motor that may fit the bill better and has some performance parts support.
> That is the 1988 SHO V6 which produced good power, over 200, and can be
> mounted longitudinally.  It shares a bell housing pattern with the Vulcan
> V6
> motor. And is it just under 3 litres displacement and conveniently uses the
> EEC IV efi system and it might be cheaper than the national debt.  It is a
> DOHC motor but with a 60 degree bank angle so it will likely fit. And
> although
> it is a Yamaha, if comes from Ford so falls in my list of druthers for Ford
> stuff.
>
> The trick now, is to find one that  can be bought complete for a song or at
> least a loud yodel.  Anybody have a clue as to where I might start looking
> for
> one or two of them?  Might even turn out to be a good transplant for
> either a
> Tiger or Alpine... Of course, a manual trans version would be lovely also
> as I
> am tired of wrestling with my AOD trans good as it is... it is large....
>
> And I have thought of stretching the wheel base for next time... 130
> inches vs
> 90 sure seems better for salt racing stability.
>
> Went to the salt, Mon, Tues and yesterday for a look see. Salt is poor.
> very bumpy, lots of soft spots and more spin outs in the day and a half I
> was
> there that most of the meets I have been to combined! Lots of broken motors
> and car parts. If it does not rain and smooth things out, it will be a
> tough
> go.  On a side note, my new F350 King Ranch Dually tow truck was a
> marvel..once even hit 95 mph, ahem, passing a big truck....  and still got
> 16.7 overall mpg up and back and around town....
>
> shoot me considerations for the SHO motor, 1988 specific and a manual trans
> set up for same....
>
> mayf
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 15:30:58 2013
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From: Rollright@aol.com
Full-name: Rollright
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 17:30:48 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Tigers] Geneerator pulley part number location
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,
 
Several people have helped me with questions  pertainnig to the  generator.
 
Question here is, the correct number for the generator is:  C2OF-10130-A
 
If the generator is on the car, can you see this number anywhere? If the  
generator is off the car,
 is it visible? Where?
 
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
TAC  0763
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 15:54:00 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: <Rollright@aol.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 17:53:33 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6Z/sGmr99WdW7VTLSqpdm/H3tW+gAAhKSw
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Geneerator pulley part number location
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim
	All Ford generators have a 10002 base part number.

C2OF-10130-A is the single sheave pulley.

I don't believe the pulley has any markings but there is about a dimes width
of metal between the pulley fan blade and the pulley groove.  The other
available single sheave pulley has less metal there.

The generator only has an ink stamped number which comes off too easily.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rollright@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 5:31 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Geneerator pulley part number location


Hello,

Several people have helped me with questions  pertainnig to the  generator.

Question here is, the correct number for the generator is:  C2OF-10130-A

If the generator is on the car, can you see this number anywhere? If the
generator is off the car,
 is it visible? Where?



Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A
382002083
LRXFE
TAC  0763
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3211/6578 - Release Date: 08/14/13
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 16:37:42 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; auth=pass (PLAIN)
	smtp.auth=sosnaenergyconsulting@cox.net
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 15:37:22 -0700
From: David Sosna <sosnaenergyconsulting@cox.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130804
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: tigers@autox.team.net
References: <D4XL1m05E0koGQ6014XPp7>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Mayf:
So, you're going to go for the Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Dragster Wannabee? 
:-)

Hope you'll keep us apprised on the SHO motor.

Best Regards
David


On 08/15/2013 09:30 AM, Larry Mayfield wrote:
>
> And I have thought of stretching the wheel base for next time... 130 
> inches vs 90 sure seems better for salt racing stability.
>
>
> mayf
>
>
> ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sosnaenergyconsulting@cox.net
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 16 20:30:32 2013
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From: "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com>
To: "drmayf@mayfco.com" <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 22:29:52 -0400
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
Thread-Index: Ac6a8aoA1cVLXdNKQ1CNmZ9hDyBl5g==
References: <520D022D.4000602@mayfco.com>
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
acceptlanguage: en-US
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Speed Freaks:

I just returned from Bonneville and we found the courses to be well graded and
smooth.  We ran a total of twelve times but did stay away from Course 1
because it was slick and had cars spinning all week long.  The return roads
were not graded, but were pretty smooth.  The SCTA-BNI did a great job of it,
as usual.

Jere Teepen

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 15, 2013, at 9:31 AM, "Larry Mayfield" <drmayf@mayfco.com> wrote:

> Ok, so  a few weeks ago, I asked about alternative motors for the WFS
> version 2014.  I received a plethora of suggestions (don't you just love
> that word!) and some ver pretty dang good. But, while surfing this
> morning I remembered a motor that may fit the bill better and has some
> performance parts support. That is the 1988 SHO V6 which produced good
> power, over 200, and can be mounted longitudinally.  It shares a bell
> housing pattern with the Vulcan V6 motor. And is it just under 3 litres
> displacement and conveniently uses the EEC IV efi system and it might be
> cheaper than the national debt.  It is a DOHC motor but with a 60 degree
> bank angle so it will likely fit. And although it is a Yamaha, if comes
> from Ford so falls in my list of druthers for Ford stuff.
>
> The trick now, is to find one that  can be bought complete for a song or
> at least a loud yodel.  Anybody have a clue as to where I might start
> looking for one or two of them?  Might even turn out to be a good
> transplant for either a Tiger or Alpine... Of course, a manual trans
> version would be lovely also as I am tired of wrestling with my AOD
> trans good as it is... it is large....
>
> And I have thought of stretching the wheel base for next time... 130
> inches vs 90 sure seems better for salt racing stability.
>
> Went to the salt, Mon, Tues and yesterday for a look see. Salt is poor.
> very bumpy, lots of soft spots and more spin outs in the day and a half
> I was there that most of the meets I have been to combined! Lots of
> broken motors and car parts. If it does not rain and smooth things out,
> it will be a tough go.  On a side note, my new F350 King Ranch Dually
> tow truck was a marvel..once even hit 95 mph, ahem, passing a big
> truck....  and still got 16.7 overall mpg up and back and around town....
>
> shoot me considerations for the SHO motor, 1988 specific and a manual
> trans set up for same....
>
> mayf
>
>
> ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jteepen@usatoday.com
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From: Cullen1972 <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 09:17:34 -0500
To: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michael@michaelshortt.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe there are three of those shoguns total, and one of the guys
responsible for the prototype is a buddy of mine, lives around the corner for
me here in Yukon ok. Local shelby enthusiast as well. I might be able to pick
his brain about it a little. Let me see what he recalls.

Cullen


Sent from my iPhone.

On Aug 15, 2013, at 2:45 PM, "michael@michaelshortt.com"
<michaelsavga@gmail.com> wrote:

> Jay Leno has one attached to a Transaxle in the back seat of a Ford
> Festevia(sp), it was called a Shogun. Very Limited Production, looks a bit
> like a Renault R5.
>
> Michael Shortt
> On Aug 15, 2013 2:59 PM, "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)"
<mark.rense@ge.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Ah, SHO Taurus, my green 1991 was the only car I have ever owned that was
>> bought back under our state's Lemon Law. Great engine, everything attached
>> to
>> it was a POS. Be aware that the later automatic cars ('92 - on?) were 3.2
>> liter, you need to find a manual tranny version to stay under that magical
>> 3.0
>> liter bogie.
>>
>> As a side note I bought a '96 SHO 3.4 liter V-8 engine, also a 60 degree
>> layout, out of a low mileage junker several years ago to use as a
potential
>> engine swap into something small and Miata-like. Did not know at the time
>> about the cam sprocket loosening issues, this engine had fallen victim and
>> most of the valves were tweeked so it became a nice piece of scrap metal.
>> It
>> was a neat little engine, too bad.
>>
>> Here's a '89 SHO 3.0 liter in Vegas:
>>
>>
http://www.automotix.net/usedengines/1989-ford-taurus-inventory.html?fit_note
>> s=7a834fbaf84c4cf74707388f1af6a757&seq_num=3
>>
>> And a Depends-load of '91 3.0 automatics around the country:
>>
>>
http://www.automotix.net/usedengines/1991-ford-taurus-inventory.html?fit_note
>> s=53018f94eded282c47f29ae44a6e472d&seq_num=2
>>
>> Good hunting!
>>
>> Bugz
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On
>> Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
>> Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 12:31 PM
>> To: tigers@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
>>
>> Ok, so  a few weeks ago, I asked about alternative motors for the WFS
>> version
>> 2014.  I received a plethora of suggestions (don't you just love that
>> word!)
>> and some ver pretty dang good. But, while surfing this morning I
>> remembered a
>> motor that may fit the bill better and has some performance parts support.
>> That is the 1988 SHO V6 which produced good power, over 200, and can be
>> mounted longitudinally.  It shares a bell housing pattern with the Vulcan
>> V6
>> motor. And is it just under 3 litres displacement and conveniently uses
the
>> EEC IV efi system and it might be cheaper than the national debt.  It is a
>> DOHC motor but with a 60 degree bank angle so it will likely fit. And
>> although
>> it is a Yamaha, if comes from Ford so falls in my list of druthers for
Ford
>> stuff.
>>
>> The trick now, is to find one that  can be bought complete for a song or
at
>> least a loud yodel.  Anybody have a clue as to where I might start looking
>> for
>> one or two of them?  Might even turn out to be a good transplant for
>> either a
>> Tiger or Alpine... Of course, a manual trans version would be lovely also
>> as I
>> am tired of wrestling with my AOD trans good as it is... it is large....
>>
>> And I have thought of stretching the wheel base for next time... 130
>> inches vs
>> 90 sure seems better for salt racing stability.
>>
>> Went to the salt, Mon, Tues and yesterday for a look see. Salt is poor.
>> very bumpy, lots of soft spots and more spin outs in the day and a half I
>> was
>> there that most of the meets I have been to combined! Lots of broken
motors
>> and car parts. If it does not rain and smooth things out, it will be a
>> tough
>> go.  On a side note, my new F350 King Ranch Dually tow truck was a
>> marvel..once even hit 95 mph, ahem, passing a big truck....  and still got
>> 16.7 overall mpg up and back and around town....
>>
>> shoot me considerations for the SHO motor, 1988 specific and a manual
trans
>> set up for same....
>>
>> mayf
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cmccann1972@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 09:40:39 2013
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From: "denis mercier" <denismercier@telvic.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 11:38:08 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Need help
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi guys.
I'm installing new soft top on my Tiger. There is excessive gap at bottom of
door window to soft top frame. The hinge is not bent above the rivet. Is there
is a spacer
between the hinge and soft top frame to close the gap ?
If someone has a photo of that i'l appreciate.
Thanks !
Denis.
B382000926LRXFE
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Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 08:42:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul R Sheahan <sunbeamtiger@prodigy.net>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Florida TAC Event August 24th
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

 Hello,
    We will be having our next TAC Event on Saturday August 24th
starting at 11am at Rich and Nancy Hoffman's home in Jupiter Florida.  The
address is:
17969 Bridle Lane
Jupiter, Florida 33478
    If you need
additional information, please contact me either by email or my cell phone at
(704)564-3831.  We look forward to seeing new TAC candidates or old friends.
Paul
Paul R Sheahan
Senior TAC Inspector#23
(704)564-3831 Cell
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 09:43:59 2013
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From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
To: "'Cullen1972'" <cmccann1972@gmail.com>, <michael@michaelshortt.com>
References: <520D022D.4000602@mayfco.com>
	<26805228D183EF4E9C6F4499BB55B05147D000E3@CINMBCNA10.e2k.ad.ge.com>
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Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 10:43:49 -0500
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
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Cullen, et al:

The Shogun was a project that Rick Titus, son of former automotive
journalist and Shelby team Trans-Am driver Jerry Titus, was heavily involved
in.  From what I remember, Rick got together with a group of investors and
was going to build these cars for the retail market.  They were indeed Ford
Festivas on steroids; Taurus SHO engines and transaxles mounted in the rear
of a heavily modified Festiva.  What I can't remember is who dreamed up the
conversion; I can't remember if it was Rick or someone else.  At any rate,
the cars really went like stink but, for whatever reason, the project just
never got off the ground.  I do remember Rick coming to the Mid-America
Shelby Meet back then really excited about the project.  Greg will be able
to tell you what happened to it from that point.  

Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740  


Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Cullen1972
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 9:18 AM
To: michael@michaelshortt.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate

I believe there are three of those shoguns total, and one of the guys
responsible for the prototype is a buddy of mine, lives around the corner
for me here in Yukon ok. Local shelby enthusiast as well. I might be able to
pick his brain about it a little. Let me see what he recalls.

Cullen


Sent from my iPhone.

On Aug 15, 2013, at 2:45 PM, "michael@michaelshortt.com"
<michaelsavga@gmail.com> wrote:

> Jay Leno has one attached to a Transaxle in the back seat of a Ford 
> Festevia(sp), it was called a Shogun. Very Limited Production, looks a 
> bit like a Renault R5.
>
> Michael Shortt
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 09:47:32 2013
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From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
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Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 10:47:21 -0500
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Subject: [Tigers] Mecum Monterrey auction
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Guys:

My father-in-law called last night to tell me that a Tiger had gone across
the block at the Mecum Monterrey Auction on the Velocity Network and had
sold for $62K.  Unfortunately, I missed it.  Does anyone know anything about
that?  

Thanks,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740
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From: "Thomas Prager" <tcprager@hotmail.com>
To: "tigers_United_forum" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 11:08:38 -0500
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Subject: [Tigers] pictures of Mecum Tiger that sold for $62k
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http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail.cfm?LOT_ID=CA0813-161237&entryRow=73
8<http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail.cfm?LOT_ID=CA0813-161237&entryRow=
738>
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From: Cullen McCann <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 13:21:04 -0500
To: Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net>
Cc: "<tigers@autox.team.net>" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Andy. Yes Greg and I have talked many times about the shogun project.
I've also spoken to Rick Titus about it last time he was over here at my
place. As you know Greg and Rick are tight friends.  The way I was told, Greg
was on the design team for the project. I'm just planning to ask Greg about
anything related to the SHO motor that might provide support to Mayf's race
car concept.

Cullen


Sent from my iPad

On Aug 17, 2013, at 10:43 AM, "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net> wrote:

> Cullen, et al:
>
> The Shogun was a project that Rick Titus, son of former automotive
> journalist and Shelby team Trans-Am driver Jerry Titus, was heavily
involved
> in.  From what I remember, Rick got together with a group of investors and
> was going to build these cars for the retail market.  They were indeed Ford
> Festivas on steroids; Taurus SHO engines and transaxles mounted in the rear
> of a heavily modified Festiva.  What I can't remember is who dreamed up the
> conversion; I can't remember if it was Rick or someone else.  At any rate,
> the cars really went like stink but, for whatever reason, the project just
> never got off the ground.  I do remember Rick coming to the Mid-America
> Shelby Meet back then really excited about the project.  Greg will be able
> to tell you what happened to it from that point.
>
> Andy Walker
> Edmond, OK
> B382001600LRXFE
> TAC #740
>
>
> Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Cullen1972
> Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 9:18 AM
> To: michael@michaelshortt.com
> Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
>
> I believe there are three of those shoguns total, and one of the guys
> responsible for the prototype is a buddy of mine, lives around the corner
> for me here in Yukon ok. Local shelby enthusiast as well. I might be able
to
> pick his brain about it a little. Let me see what he recalls.
>
> Cullen
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone.
>
> On Aug 15, 2013, at 2:45 PM, "michael@michaelshortt.com"
> <michaelsavga@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Jay Leno has one attached to a Transaxle in the back seat of a Ford
>> Festevia(sp), it was called a Shogun. Very Limited Production, looks a
>> bit like a Renault R5.
>>
>> Michael Shortt
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 12:35:29 2013
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Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 14:34:57 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: denis mercier <denismercier@telvic.net>
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Need help
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Dennis, is it possible the door is hung a bit low? I have maybe a 1/8 -
1/4" gap between the top of the wing window and the top frame rail on mine.
This may or may not be "normal"...

Tom
'67 Mark 2.


On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 11:38 AM, denis mercier <denismercier@telvic.net>wrote:

> Hi guys.
> I'm installing new soft top on my Tiger. There is excessive gap at bottom
> of
> door window to soft top frame. The hinge is not bent above the rivet. Is
> there
> is a spacer
> between the hinge and soft top frame to close the gap ?
> If someone has a photo of that i'l appreciate.
> Thanks !
> Denis.
> B382000926LRXFE
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 18:41:40 2013
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Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 17:41:05 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
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To: tigers@autox.team.net
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	<26805228D183EF4E9C6F4499BB55B05147D000E3@CINMBCNA10.e2k.ad.ge.com>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok, guys, I started the thread here regards the use of the SHO motor in 
the Sunbeam race car. What does the Shogun car configuration have to do 
with that? If ya wanna chat about shoguns then please start a new thread 
so I can stop looking at irrelevant messages?

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed

On 8/17/2013 11:21 AM, Cullen McCann wrote:
> Thanks Andy. Yes Greg and I have talked many times about the shogun project.
> I've also spoken to Rick Titus about it last time he was over here at my
> place. As you know Greg and Rick are tight friends.  The way I was told, Greg
> was on the design team for the project. I'm just planning to ask Greg about
> anything related to the SHO motor that might provide support to Mayf's race
> car concept.
>
> Cullen
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 17, 2013, at 10:43 AM, "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net> wrote:
>
>> Cullen, et al:
>>
>> The Shogun was a project that Rick Titus, son of former automotive
>> journalist and Shelby team Trans-Am driver Jerry Titus, was heavily
> involved
>> in.  From what I remember, Rick got together with a group of investors and
>> was going to build these cars for the retail market.  They were indeed Ford
>> Festivas on steroids; Taurus SHO engines and transaxles mounted in the rear
>> of a heavily modified Festiva.  What I can't remember is who dreamed up the
>> conversion; I can't remember if it was Rick or someone else.  At any rate,
>> the cars really went like stink but, for whatever reason, the project just
>> never got off the ground.  I do remember Rick coming to the Mid-America
>> Shelby Meet back then really excited about the project.  Greg will be able
>> to tell you what happened to it from that point.
>>
>> Andy Walker
>> Edmond, OK
>> B382001600LRXFE
>> TAC #740
>>
>>
>> Original Message-----
>> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Cullen1972
>> Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 9:18 AM
>> To: michael@michaelshortt.com
>> Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
>>
>> I believe there are three of those shoguns total, and one of the guys
>> responsible for the prototype is a buddy of mine, lives around the corner
>> for me here in Yukon ok. Local shelby enthusiast as well. I might be able
> to
>> pick his brain about it a little. Let me see what he recalls.
>>
>> Cullen
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone.
>>
>> On Aug 15, 2013, at 2:45 PM, "michael@michaelshortt.com"
>> <michaelsavga@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Jay Leno has one attached to a Transaxle in the back seat of a Ford
>>> Festevia(sp), it was called a Shogun. Very Limited Production, looks a
>>> bit like a Renault R5.
>>>
>>> Michael Shortt
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf@mayfco.com
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 18:54:28 2013
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From: Cullen1972 <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 19:47:08 -0500
To: "drmayf@mayfco.com" <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Mayf, the shogun car uses a high performance modified SHO engine from the
Taurus. That's how this discussion got started. I'm discussing this for the
sole purpose of trying to help with your project. Ill let you know if I find
out anything useful about sho motors.

Cullen

Sent from my iPhone.

On Aug 17, 2013, at 7:41 PM, Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com> wrote:

> Ok, guys, I started the thread here regards the use of the SHO motor in the
Sunbeam race car. What does the Shogun car configuration have to do with that?
If ya wanna chat about shoguns then please start a new thread so I can stop
looking at irrelevant messages?
>
> mayf
>
> ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
>
> On 8/17/2013 11:21 AM, Cullen McCann wrote:
>> Thanks Andy. Yes Greg and I have talked many times about the shogun
project.
>> I've also spoken to Rick Titus about it last time he was over here at my
>> place. As you know Greg and Rick are tight friends.  The way I was told,
Greg
>> was on the design team for the project. I'm just planning to ask Greg
about
>> anything related to the SHO motor that might provide support to Mayf's
race
>> car concept.
>>
>> Cullen
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Aug 17, 2013, at 10:43 AM, "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Cullen, et al:
>>>
>>> The Shogun was a project that Rick Titus, son of former automotive
>>> journalist and Shelby team Trans-Am driver Jerry Titus, was heavily
>> involved
>>> in.  From what I remember, Rick got together with a group of investors
and
>>> was going to build these cars for the retail market.  They were indeed
Ford
>>> Festivas on steroids; Taurus SHO engines and transaxles mounted in the
rear
>>> of a heavily modified Festiva.  What I can't remember is who dreamed up
the
>>> conversion; I can't remember if it was Rick or someone else.  At any
rate,
>>> the cars really went like stink but, for whatever reason, the project
just
>>> never got off the ground.  I do remember Rick coming to the Mid-America
>>> Shelby Meet back then really excited about the project.  Greg will be
able
>>> to tell you what happened to it from that point.
>>>
>>> Andy Walker
>>> Edmond, OK
>>> B382001600LRXFE
>>> TAC #740
>>>
>>>
>>> Original Message-----
>>> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
>>> On Behalf Of Cullen1972
>>> Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 9:18 AM
>>> To: michael@michaelshortt.com
>>> Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2014 Worlds Fastest Sunbeam Motor Candidate
>>>
>>> I believe there are three of those shoguns total, and one of the guys
>>> responsible for the prototype is a buddy of mine, lives around the corner
>>> for me here in Yukon ok. Local shelby enthusiast as well. I might be able
>> to
>>> pick his brain about it a little. Let me see what he recalls.
>>>
>>> Cullen
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone.
>>>
>>> On Aug 15, 2013, at 2:45 PM, "michael@michaelshortt.com"
>>> <michaelsavga@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Jay Leno has one attached to a Transaxle in the back seat of a Ford
>>>> Festevia(sp), it was called a Shogun. Very Limited Production, looks a
>>>> bit like a Renault R5.
>>>>
>>>> Michael Shortt
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf@mayfco.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 05:50:43 2013
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	<CAPSnpwmA5XXkqGD2Jo2upzvmAP-sW_v11aL3Mt1VCBp94QpVkw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 07:46:47 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: Ross Hulse <commodoreblues@gmail.com>
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] [Bulk] Re:  Need help
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ross, In my case the passenger side triangle window is too low below the
top frame. I don't see a way to adjust it up; the front channel is part of
the window, and can be adjusted in or out.  As to the actual window there's
probably a stop. One of the experts can tell us where, and how to adjust it.

Tom
'67 Mark 2


On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 8:06 PM, Ross Hulse <commodoreblues@gmail.com>wrote:

> Tom,
>
> I gather you mean the part of the window at the rear of the glass closest
> to the convertible top (sorry bonnet for the inane).  I have the same
> problem with my restoration.  I have disassembled the car for a rotisserie
> restoration.  I believe will have to disassemble the doors and play with
> the positioning the window channels adjusting the windows in the lifters
> and finally adjusting the windscreen to the new window positions.
> The part of the bonnet frame that  is away from the window can be bent to
> close the gap as well the frame will have to come off the bonnet hinges
> (the funny L shaped gadget) for this to be accomplished.
>
> I will let you know how I fair.
>
> Any other hints out there?  These cars are not exactly precision made.
>
> Commodore Blues
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 11:34 AM, Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Dennis, is it possible the door is hung a bit low? I have maybe a 1/8 -
>> 1/4" gap between the top of the wing window and the top frame rail on
>> mine.
>> This may or may not be "normal"...
>>
>> Tom
>> '67 Mark 2.
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 11:38 AM, denis mercier <denismercier@telvic.net
>> >wrote:
>>
>> > Hi guys.
>> > I'm installing new soft top on my Tiger. There is excessive gap at
>> bottom
>> > of
>> > door window to soft top frame. The hinge is not bent above the rivet. Is
>> > there
>> > is a spacer
>> > between the hinge and soft top frame to close the gap ?
>> > If someone has a photo of that i'l appreciate.
>> > Thanks !
>> > Denis.
>> > B382000926LRXFE
>> > _______________________________________________
>> >
>> > tigers@autox.team.net
>> >
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/ross_hulse@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 08:57:56 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>, Ross Hulse <commodoreblues@gmail.com>
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] [Bulk] Re:  Need help
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Are you sure that all rubber seals are installed? I'm not zeroed in on the exact problem but the seals take up lot's of the gaps that you mentioned. Good LUCK! !!!
Sent from Huawei Mobile

Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com> wrote:

>Ross, In my case the passenger side triangle window is too low below the
>top frame. I don't see a way to adjust it up; the front channel is part of
>the window, and can be adjusted in or out.  As to the actual window there's
>probably a stop. One of the experts can tell us where, and how to adjust it.
>
>Tom
>'67 Mark 2
>
>
>On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 8:06 PM, Ross Hulse <commodoreblues@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Tom,
>>
>> I gather you mean the part of the window at the rear of the glass closest
>> to the convertible top (sorry bonnet for the inane).  I have the same
>> problem with my restoration.  I have disassembled the car for a rotisserie
>> restoration.  I believe will have to disassemble the doors and play with
>> the positioning the window channels adjusting the windows in the lifters
>> and finally adjusting the windscreen to the new window positions.
>> The part of the bonnet frame that  is away from the window can be bent to
>> close the gap as well the frame will have to come off the bonnet hinges
>> (the funny L shaped gadget) for this to be accomplished.
>>
>> I will let you know how I fair.
>>
>> Any other hints out there?  These cars are not exactly precision made.
>>
>> Commodore Blues
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 11:34 AM, Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> Dennis, is it possible the door is hung a bit low? I have maybe a 1/8 -
>>> 1/4" gap between the top of the wing window and the top frame rail on
>>> mine.
>>> This may or may not be "normal"...
>>>
>>> Tom
>>> '67 Mark 2.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 11:38 AM, denis mercier <denismercier@telvic.net
>>> >wrote:
>>>
>>> > Hi guys.
>>> > I'm installing new soft top on my Tiger. There is excessive gap at
>>> bottom
>>> > of
>>> > door window to soft top frame. The hinge is not bent above the rivet. Is
>>> > there
>>> > is a spacer
>>> > between the hinge and soft top frame to close the gap ?
>>> > If someone has a photo of that i'l appreciate.
>>> > Thanks !
>>> > Denis.
>>> > B382000926LRXFE
>>> > _______________________________________________
>>> >
>>> > tigers@autox.team.net
>>> >
>>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> > Unsubscribe:
>>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/ross_hulse@sbcglobal.net
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 04:48:01 2013
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From: "denis mercier" <denismercier@telvic.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 06:47:17 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Gear set
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi guys !
Yesterday it was a beautiful day her in Quebec and i used my Tiger for the
first time this summer to make a ride. Each time i use my Tiger i would like
to have an overdrive.
Is it possible to use a top loader transmission gear ratio like first 2.90
second 1.93 third 1.36 top.85 When i'l restored my Tiger i'l put a wide ratio
gear set on it
and differential is standard 2.88
Thanks!
Denis
B382000926LRXFE
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 07:14:27 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'denis mercier'" <denismercier@telvic.net>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 09:12:37 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6cyYtQZCzdhkAWTRK+CMuGM5MuZwAEddMg
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gear set
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Denis
	Ford made an RUG toploader overdrive transmission back in 1977 for
the Granada and others.  Not sure how long that transmission was produced.
	I don't know if it will fit the Tiger.  I have seen articles where
the overdrive transmission parts were installed into an early toploader
transmission but this could be a very big job to accomplish.  I don't know.

	I'm not sure you would like the gears in the RUG transmission
either; it seems to me there was a very large gap between each gear.

	Maybe someone on the List has investigated the RUG transmission in
more detail.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of denis mercier
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 6:47 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Gear set


Hi guys !
Yesterday it was a beautiful day her in Quebec and i used my Tiger for the
first time this summer to make a ride. Each time i use my Tiger i would like
to have an overdrive. Is it possible to use a top loader transmission gear
ratio like first 2.90 second 1.93 third 1.36 top.85 When i'l restored my
Tiger i'l put a wide ratio gear set on it and differential is standard 2.88
Thanks! Denis B382000926LRXFE
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
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From: "Lynn" <cars@wt-inc.com>
To: "'Tom Parker'" <tkparker1941@gmail.com>, "'Ross Hulse'"
	<commodoreblues@gmail.com>
References: <2B01110B70174DE38AF1C459AF4D77CC@D7F0WHF1>
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	to false
Cc: 'LIST TIGER' <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] [Bulk] Re:  Need help
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ross,

I have the same issue.  The problem does not lie in your door or top but
rather the front window frame.  As it was explained to me, and it makes
sense when I look at it, when the cars are disassembled for restoration the
rubber that holds the windshield frame to the body has basically become like
glue.  The person doing the disassembly typically grabs the top of the
window frame and rolls it toward the front of the car and to brake the grip
and bends the frame making it taller in the middle.  Sometimes they forget
about the two bolts that hold the frame on each end and this makes it worse.
The best way to fix it is to take the windshield out and try to restore the
frame to the original dimensions.  Be advised that this will cause the top
to "move forward" so hopefully you have not mounted the screws in the rear.
If so, hopefully you have room to remount them.

I hope this makes sense.  This was explained to me from Dale A.

Lynn

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Parker
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 5:47 AM
To: Ross Hulse
Cc: LIST TIGER
Subject: Re: [Tigers] [Bulk] Re: Need help

Ross, In my case the passenger side triangle window is too low below the top
frame. I don't see a way to adjust it up; the front channel is part of the
window, and can be adjusted in or out.  As to the actual window there's
probably a stop. One of the experts can tell us where, and how to adjust it.

Tom
'67 Mark 2


On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 8:06 PM, Ross Hulse <commodoreblues@gmail.com>wrote:

> Tom,
>
> I gather you mean the part of the window at the rear of the glass 
> closest to the convertible top (sorry bonnet for the inane).  I have 
> the same problem with my restoration.  I have disassembled the car for 
> a rotisserie restoration.  I believe will have to disassemble the 
> doors and play with the positioning the window channels adjusting the 
> windows in the lifters and finally adjusting the windscreen to the new
window positions.
> The part of the bonnet frame that  is away from the window can be bent 
> to close the gap as well the frame will have to come off the bonnet 
> hinges (the funny L shaped gadget) for this to be accomplished.
>
> I will let you know how I fair.
>
> Any other hints out there?  These cars are not exactly precision made.
>
> Commodore Blues
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 11:34 AM, Tom Parker
<tkparker1941@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Dennis, is it possible the door is hung a bit low? I have maybe a 1/8 
>> - 1/4" gap between the top of the wing window and the top frame rail 
>> on mine.
>> This may or may not be "normal"...
>>
>> Tom
>> '67 Mark 2.
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 11:38 AM, denis mercier 
>> <denismercier@telvic.net
>> >wrote:
>>
>> > Hi guys.
>> > I'm installing new soft top on my Tiger. There is excessive gap at
>> bottom
>> > of
>> > door window to soft top frame. The hinge is not bent above the 
>> > rivet. Is there is a spacer between the hinge and soft top frame to 
>> > close the gap ?
>> > If someone has a photo of that i'l appreciate.
>> > Thanks !
>> > Denis.
>> > B382000926LRXFE
>> > _______________________________________________
>> >
>> > tigers@autox.team.net
>> >
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/ross_hulse@sbcglobal.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 10:51:31 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <ECE9E4A929834371A46672ECCDF24D06@D7F0WHF1>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 09:50:36 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gear set
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Denis,
  As Ron stated there is a 4 speed overdrive that was used in the 1970's 
Granada and I believe some of the Ford Mustang/Capri and trucks. This link 
will tell you much you need to know about them. 
http://www.5speeds.com/toploader.html. Take note of the 
differences/limitations.  An issue with this transmission is the large gap 
between 2nd and 3rd gear.

What I have always found interesting is what is listed as "Jeep ratio #3". 
While not an overdrive, it is a somewhat "wide-er" ratio toploader - but 
still having even ratio spacing. Using taller tires with the 3.01 first gear 
could effectively make the 1:1 fourth gear equivalent to perhaps a .85 or so 
overdrive while coming close to the equivalent 2.78 of the wide ratio 
standard toploader.

Just remember changing tire diameter is also equal to changing transmission 
or rear end ratios. All THREE need to be considered a package factored 
around the intended use of the car and its torque curve.

Tom


> Hi guys !
> Yesterday it was a beautiful day her in Quebec and i used my Tiger for the
> first time this summer to make a ride. Each time i use my Tiger i would 
> like
> to have an overdrive.
> Is it possible to use a top loader transmission gear ratio like first 2.90
> second 1.93 third 1.36 top.85 When i'l restored my Tiger i'l put a wide 
> ratio
> gear set on it
> and differential is standard 2.88
> Thanks!
> Denis
> B382000926LRXFE
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From: "denis mercier" <denismercier@telvic.net>
To: <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
References: <C05CB317024A40A7834A178B7FC03D7F@ronpc1>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 15:34:23 -0400
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger
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MessageHi Ron.
I made a modification on the hinge who move the soft top down and up. I
slightly heat and bent the face who come in contact with the soft top frame
and everything fit well. Also i thing i can adjust the side window back to
close the gap from side window to soft top post rubber seal.
For the transmission gear ratio i thing the best deal is to fit a 5 speed, but
it's expensive. It's cost effective for peoples who use there cars often.
Denis.

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Ron Fraser
  To: 'denis mercier'
  Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 2:31 PM
  Subject: RE: Tiger


  Denis

      Not sure how much I can help here.   I have the hardtop on and I don't
remember how well the soft top fit.

  It appears that when you took the bolt out that the pivot arm moved forward.
Is that correct?

  If so then the soft top fabric is restricting the pivot and the vertical
gray part from getting to its correct forward position.

  You would need to loosen all the screws along the back that hold the soft
top fabric to free the pivot arm or maybe just the vertical fabric.

  You might be able to remove all the fabric up the vertical post and
accomplish the same - not sure.
  Maybe just the vertical fabric can be adjusted to let the pivot move all the
way forward.

  I would also check for any broken welds up by the bows.

  I measured around .39 inches from the back edge of the glass to the front
edge of the chrome finisher on my Tiger Mk IA.

  Ron


    -----Original Message-----
    From: denis mercier [mailto:denismercier@telvic.net]
    Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 6:58 PM
    To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
    Cc: Dave Munroe
    Subject: Fw: Tiger


    When i unscreew the bolt look the space at botom of support. I'l heat with
torch to bent slightly the face of support and the soft top frame is at the
right place.
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: Denis Mercier
    To: denismercier@telvic.net
    Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 6:38 PM
    Subject: Tiger
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From: "Bates,Robert E Jr" <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: weather strip
Thread-Index: Ac6dGguaADKdoh8uSPWMy1H8Zr4tvA==
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 20:25:40 +0000
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Subject: [Tigers] weather strip
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Hello - I am reassembling my 1966 Tiger after a full restoration, and am a
little confused about the weather strip that is between the windshield drip
molding and the door vent window.  Is it just glued to the drip molding?  How
is it orientated?  I'm sure it will be obvious once I'm done, but confusing
now.



Pictures of the installed weather strip would be appreciated.  Please send to
edu>



Thanks.  Bob
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 20:39:42 -0400
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: "Bates,Robert E Jr" <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] weather strip
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Robert,

The rubber weather strip on my car is screwed to the drip molding from the
outside, and the drip molding is riveted to the windshield frame. I
probably have the old pictures on a cd somewhere, but they're not with me
in Florida; I remember it was somewhat confusing to figure out which were
rivet holes and which were screw holes; I think the rubber seals determined
which were which.

Tom
'67 Mark 2


On Mon, Aug 19, 2013 at 4:25 PM, Bates,Robert E Jr <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>wrote:

> Hello - I am reassembling my 1966 Tiger after a full restoration, and am a
> little confused about the weather strip that is between the windshield drip
> molding and the door vent window.  Is it just glued to the drip molding?
>  How
> is it orientated?  I'm sure it will be obvious once I'm done, but confusing
> now.
>
>
>
> Pictures of the installed weather strip would be appreciated.  Please send
> to
> rbates@dental.ufl.
> edu>
>
>
>
> Thanks.  Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 17:52:39 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>, "Bates,
	Robert E Jr" <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] weather strip
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

At least on the one I bought from SS years ago, it matched the original
with the metal strip inside the rubber having holes in it for the screw to
go through.  However, the rubber itself did not have a hole.  So, you had
to puncture a hole to get the screw through - matching where you holes on
your frame were, and make the hole just enough to get the screw head
through.  The hole would then close over the screw head.


On Mon, Aug 19, 2013 at 5:39 PM, Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com> wrote:

> Robert,
>
> The rubber weather strip on my car is screwed to the drip molding from the
> outside, and the drip molding is riveted to the windshield frame. I
> probably have the old pictures on a cd somewhere, but they're not with me
> in Florida; I remember it was somewhat confusing to figure out which were
> rivet holes and which were screw holes; I think the rubber seals determined
> which were which.
>
> Tom
> '67 Mark 2
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 19, 2013 at 4:25 PM, Bates,Robert E Jr <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu
> >wrote:
>
> > Hello - I am reassembling my 1966 Tiger after a full restoration, and am
> a
> > little confused about the weather strip that is between the windshield
> drip
> > molding and the door vent window.  Is it just glued to the drip molding?
> >  How
> > is it orientated?  I'm sure it will be obvious once I'm done, but
> confusing
> > now.
> >
> >
> >
> > Pictures of the installed weather strip would be appreciated.  Please
> send
> > to
> > rbates@dental.ufl.
> > edu>
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks.  Bob
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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	Aug 2013 18:14:37 +0000
From: "Sigma Engineering" <sigmaengr@carolina.rr.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <3EDC3FD6F38444759FED057D523005A3@sbrennanPC>
	<BD9864D7F088457F97C98A775C9FBC4E@D32K5JC1>
	<520941F9.3060300@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 14:14:50 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] LED Brake Lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

LED brake update....
I purchase my bulbs & electronic flasher from superbrightleds.com
The bulbs installed simple enough.  The old lucas FL5 flasher would not 
cycle, but i had bought the electronic flasher anyway since the lucas unit 
was acting up at times.  The new electronic flasher fit the socket , but the 
terminals were in a different orientation from the Lucas unit.  A quick swap 
of the spade lugs in the 3-prong socket & everything worked as expected.   I 
think the total cost was under $35 & that even included a brake light for my 
'76 BMW R90/6 plus a spare.  I feel much better about my upcoming road trip 
in a couple of weeks.

chris

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alex Haugland" <ahauglan@gmail.com>
To: "Sigma Engineering" <sigmaengr@carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] LED Brake Lights


> The easiest is to buy LED bulb replacements coloured to match the lens 
> (e.g. red for the brake lamp).  With white LEDs the brake lamps illuminate 
> with more of a pinkish glow.  With a separate turn lamp bulb there is no 
> need to mess with the turn signal flasher or any of the issues inherent in 
> the combined brake lamp/turn signal systems if all you want is brighter 
> brake lamps.  If you choose to replace the rear turn lamp bulbs, you will 
> also need to replace the original thermal flasher unit with an electronic 
> version rated for use with LEDs.  I've used the Tridon EP34 to replace 
> Lucas 3 prong flashers when installing LEDs with no problems.
>
> I've bought LED bulbs from ledlight.com and superbrightleds.com. Both 
> carry a range of choices for 1156/1157 style bulbs as well as instrument 
> lamp bulbs etc.
>
> --Alex Haugland
>
> On 8/11/2013 1:57 PM, Sigma Engineering wrote:
>> Hi group,
>> What is the easiest/best/cheapest way to change over to LED brake lights?
>> Thanks in Advance,
>> Chris
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/ahauglan@gmail.com
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Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 19:47:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] CSX 4103 continuation Cobra
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

A friend is looking at the above car. I'm not a big advocate of the
continuation Cobras over other top quality replicas, but interested to hear
other opinions on how they stack up from an investment perspective and from a
buy it for the fun of driving it.

Of course we all know a Tiger is a better
option, but he's not interested in that path.  ;)

Stephen Waybright
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From: Alex Haugland <ahauglan@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 21:21:18 -0700
To: tiger list <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Correct/most original soft top material for an early Mark
 1 Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello!  I'm actively restoring a pretty original early mark 1 Tiger
(B9470334LRXFE) and want to bring it back to as close to original condition as
is reasonable for a car I intend to actually drive.  As the car is in need of
a complete repainting, I'm planning the teardown and gathering the pieces that
need to be replaced for when I start putting it back together.  To that end,
the top on the car is a replacement in pinpoint vinyl which has some tears and
other issues leading it to needing to be replaced.

To that end, I've seen different sites listing conflicting or at least unclear
information as to what material is closest to the original.  I'm not sure if
it should be a pinpoint vinyl or a crushed grain vinyl.  The Everflex at least
has the grey interior, but I don't know if its texture is at all correct and
would appreciate whatever guidance all of you can give.  Thank you very much!

--Alex Haugland
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 04:38:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Stephen,
Just from memory, the 4000 series sounds like the fatter coil sprung
version of the recent version of the Shelby Cobra. This is strictly my
opinion, but if your friend is keen on this model Cobra, and the price is
within his limit and he's not buying add-ons that he's going to discard in
order to equip his new car to his own liking, I would favor the Shelby version
over cars like Superperformance or Factory Five, particularly if one of his
concerns is resale value.

Also, I  would check to see how close a new 4000
today from Shelby price-wise would compare to the cost of  the used one that
your friend is thinking about. Also, again just my opinion, but I would check
into the leaf sprung, scrawnier version, based on the original Cobra MK II
289. They're rarer as replicars, and probably more enjoyable as a occasional
street-driven car, like a bigger Tiger.

Just as an aside, Hemmings reported
yesterday that what amounts to a barn-find Cobra MK I (one of the first 260
models with skinnier wires and no side fender vents) sold at auction(the
Pebble Beach / Quail Lodge event) for $ 2.07 million including premium, so far
the record for leaf-sprung Cobra's.

Rande Bellman
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 07:55:50 2013
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References: <1377085097.13403.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 08:55:38 -0500
From: Cullen McCann <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
To: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

For what I know about them, I agree with Rande. I would expect that the
continuation series cars to hold the value the best of all the non-original
(period) cobras simply because they have the correct Shelby American
branding on them, and Shel "endorsed" them...where he did not for all other
replicas. He did get behind superformance though...even on a business
level, so they should hold their value very well both due to that and the
quality.  I believe the 4000 series SA cars are VERY similar to the
superformance setup...and i was under the impression that some
collaboration between superformance and shelby was at the heart of those
two lines...but I havent dug in to it. I believe is the series 8000 that is
the 289 version car. That would be cool. My Cobra replica is not as
advanced of a car as the superformance or Shelby American Cont' car...its
built more like a street rod, but it does drive very well and similar to
the authentic original cobras I have driven on a couple of rare occasions.
Its a 90" wheel base reasonably accurate external representation of the
original SC bodied big block car.

I would personally not lump superformance and factory 5 in the same
category. nothing wrong with factory five, but the superformace car is
incredibly high quality and very well made...by FAR exceeding the standards
of workmenship of all other replicas, (except Kirkham) and exceeding the
quality of the originals in my opinion, with the possible exception of the
alloy coach work which is just a lost art altogether. The kirkhams arent
event a close discussion. They arent really even meant to replicate...they
are so nice, so fancy and so well built with precision design and
tolerance, they are in a class of their own. And kirkhams often demand
outrageous premiums...EVEN for a while, a few years ago, close to the
originals simply due to their incredible quality. These days however the
originals are untouchable for most of us as we know.

my two cents.
Cullen
Alpine 260 (TAC 840)



On Wed, Aug 21, 2013 at 6:38 AM, snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Stephen,
> Just from memory, the 4000 series sounds like the fatter coil sprung
> version of the recent version of the Shelby Cobra. This is strictly my
> opinion, but if your friend is keen on this model Cobra, and the price is
> within his limit and he's not buying add-ons that he's going to discard in
> order to equip his new car to his own liking, I would favor the Shelby
> version
> over cars like Superperformance or Factory Five, particularly if one of his
> concerns is resale value.
>
> Also, I  would check to see how close a new 4000
> today from Shelby price-wise would compare to the cost of  the used one
> that
> your friend is thinking about. Also, again just my opinion, but I would
> check
> into the leaf sprung, scrawnier version, based on the original Cobra MK II
> 289. They're rarer as replicars, and probably more enjoyable as a
> occasional
> street-driven car, like a bigger Tiger.
>
> Just as an aside, Hemmings reported
> yesterday that what amounts to a barn-find Cobra MK I (one of the first 260
> models with skinnier wires and no side fender vents) sold at auction(the
> Pebble Beach / Quail Lodge event) for $ 2.07 million including premium, so
> far
> the record for leaf-sprung Cobra's.
>
> Rande Bellman
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cmccann1972@gmail.com
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 11:08:20 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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http://autos.aol.com/article/vintage-car-auction-will-sell-off-low-mileage-g
ems/?m=false
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From: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <1377085097.13403.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 12:40:25 -0300
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys:

I'm just back from a week of realtively spirited "Touring" (about 1200 
miles), and the engine grew progressively more noisy until it was clear the 
exhaust manifold bolts were loosening.

Once home in the garage I was able to get the engine room stripped down to 
see what was going on. On the drivers side, the rear-most bolt had left the 
car (of course, the most difficult to access!) and the rest were very loose 
on both sides of the engine.

My car's engine is a 331 stroker making about 320 hp, and is fitted with 
period headers (identified by this List as from JC Whitney), and these 
header to cylinder head bolts have had to be tightened at least once every 
driving season.

I know on race cars this is an ongoing problem and that bolt locks are 
usually fitted to prevent this fault. But the headers I have leave little 
room for these mechanical locks. Does anyone else have this problem, and is 
there a reasonable solution that doesn't require engine removal to effect?

Perhaps a new set of headers? One of the many Loctite formulas that take 
high heat?

Help!

dave
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 10:18:26 2013
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
Thread-Index: AQHOnmN2T6ddpXKsbE2gvTNWLR8/epmgIIyA//+0UgA=
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 16:10:20 +0000
References: <1377085097.13403.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<0408B37D1C46441AB6C850A4B75E856E@DavePC>
Accept-Language: en-US
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Can you drill the bolt heads for lock wire?
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Munroe
> Sent: August 21, 2013 9:40 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
>
> Hi Guys:
>
> I know on race cars this is an ongoing problem and that bolt locks are
> usually fitted to prevent this fault. But the headers I have leave
> little room for these mechanical locks. Does anyone else have this
> problem, and is there a reasonable solution that doesn't require engine
> removal to effect?
>
> Perhaps a new set of headers? One of the many Loctite formulas that
> take high heat?
>
> Help!
>
> dave


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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 10:20:42 2013
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From: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
To: Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
Thread-Index: AQHOnoWjrCRwc0JzCUOaapntWe+mI5mf1BgA
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 16:12:54 +0000
References: <1377085097.13403.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<0408B37D1C46441AB6C850A4B75E856E@DavePC>
Accept-Language: en-US
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave, Header bolts are hard to keep tight on some applications, these locks
are small enough they should fit. Otherwise you can always drill the bolt
heads
and safety wire them, something not easily done in a Tiger!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/stg-8913/overview/make/ford

Also consider the Percy's gaskets, they work.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-65014/overview/make/ford


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dave Munroe
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 11:40 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra continuation

Hi Guys:

I'm just back from a week of realtively spirited "Touring" (about 1200 miles),
and the engine grew progressively more noisy until it was clear the exhaust
manifold bolts were loosening.

Once home in the garage I was able to get the engine room stripped down to see
what was going on. On the drivers side, the rear-most bolt had left the car
(of course, the most difficult to access!) and the rest were very loose on
both sides of the engine.


My car's engine is a 331 stroker making about 320 hp, and is fitted with
period headers (identified by this List as from JC Whitney), and these header
to cylinder head bolts have had to be tightened at least once every driving
season.

I know on race cars this is an ongoing problem and that bolt locks are usually
fitted to prevent this fault. But the headers I have leave little room for
these mechanical locks. Does anyone else have this problem, and is there a
reasonable solution that doesn't require engine removal to effect?

Perhaps a new set of headers? One of the many Loctite formulas that take high
heat?

Help!

dave
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mark.rense@ge.com
_______________________________________________

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	<0408B37D1C46441AB6C850A4B75E856E@DavePC>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 09:14:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: james ellis <hunber@bellsouth.net>
To: Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

In the V6 Alpine world this is over come in a different way than anyone would
ever guess... the V6 is a metric beast and we simply use SAE header bolts that
are as close to the metric bolt as possible ... they almost fit but not quite
and they never back out.. 
 
 

________________________________
 From: Dave
Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, August 21,
2013 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
  

Hi Guys:

I'm just
back from a week of realtively spirited "Touring" (about 1200 miles), and the
engine grew progressively more noisy until it was clear the exhaust manifold
bolts were loosening.

Once home in the garage I was able to get the engine
room stripped down to see what was going on. On the drivers side, the
rear-most bolt had left the car (of course, the most difficult to access!) and
the rest were very loose on both sides of the engine.

My car's engine is a
331 stroker making about 320 hp, and is fitted with period headers (identified
by this List as from JC Whitney), and these header to cylinder head bolts have
had to be tightened at least once every driving season.

I know on race cars
this is an ongoing problem and that bolt locks are usually fitted to prevent
this fault. But the headers I have leave little room for these mechanical
locks. Does anyone else have this problem, and is there a reasonable solution
that doesn't require engine removal to effect?

Perhaps a new set of headers?
One of the many Loctite formulas that take high heat?

Help!

dave
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/hunber@bellsouth.net
_______________________________________________

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References: <7630E6DD-0FAB-4EBB-BB2C-0C3D4F2A7483@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 09:20:17 -0700
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: Alex Haugland <ahauglan@gmail.com>
Cc: tiger list <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Correct/most original soft top material for an early
 Mark 1 Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

It depends on which year.

That said, I was at Sunbeam Specialties probably 20 years ago now, if not
more, when Rick was working with a new top supplier trying to get their
product to fit right, and help them change their pattern to work better.
So, keep in mind that material is only a small fraction of the product.
The fit is also critical.

Personally, I would just go to Rick or Curt and get what they have that is
closest - and avoid VB on this stuff like the plague.  That way you'll have
generally the best that is out there, even if it is not exact.  You might
even consider talking to them and asking what they have now, and what
issues they have with them, and what might come in the future.

Sadly, the demand and thus suppliers for this stuff drops every year.  I
was just talking to a Porsche 356 restorer - a car that can go for many
$100,000s and where you'd think the suppliers would be readily available
with high quality parts for people willing to spend that kind of money on
the cars.  He said that since so many of the cars have been restored by
now, the demand for parts has dropped off, and so too the suppliers.  Sure,
there will continue to be restorations, and cars that are driven will need
further maintenance and restoration - but that later group of cars is by
far the minority.  The moral of this story?  We all need to drive these
cars into the ground so that they will need restoration and suppliers will
stay in business!



On Tue, Aug 20, 2013 at 9:21 PM, Alex Haugland <ahauglan@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello!  I'm actively restoring a pretty original early mark 1 Tiger
> (B9470334LRXFE) and want to bring it back to as close to original
> condition as
> is reasonable for a car I intend to actually drive.  As the car is in need
> of
> a complete repainting, I'm planning the teardown and gathering the pieces
> that
> need to be replaced for when I start putting it back together.  To that
> end,
> the top on the car is a replacement in pinpoint vinyl which has some tears
> and
> other issues leading it to needing to be replaced.
>
> To that end, I've seen different sites listing conflicting or at least
> unclear
> information as to what material is closest to the original.  I'm not sure
> if
> it should be a pinpoint vinyl or a crushed grain vinyl.  The Everflex at
> least
> has the grey interior, but I don't know if its texture is at all correct
> and
> would appreciate whatever guidance all of you can give.  Thank you very
> much!
>
> --Alex Haugland
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmail.com
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 09:31:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: james ellis <hunber@bellsouth.net>
To: james ellis <hunber@bellsouth.net>, Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>,
	"tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

couple other things... the V6 kit headers are very well mad with a beefy
flange at the head and they have a slightly raise ring around the port on the
head side, the interference fit as V6 Joe calls it works but these are iron
heads I would never try it on alloy heads would sure strip them out... and you
must be very careful to start them straight.. UMMV junk headers are just that
and if they are not flat at the flange well they will never seal for long...
________________________________
 From: james ellis <hunber@bellsouth.net>
To:
Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>; "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra
continuation
  

In the V6 Alpine world this is over come in a different way
than anyone would
ever guess... the V6 is a metric beast and we simply use SAE
header bolts that
are as close to the metric bolt as possible ... they almost
fit but not quite
and they never back out..
________________________________
From: Dave
Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>
To:
tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, August 21,
2013 11:40 AM
Subject: Re:
[Tigers] Cobra continuation
  

Hi Guys:

I'm just
back from a week of
realtively spirited "Touring" (about 1200 miles), and the
engine grew
progressively more noisy until it was clear the exhaust manifold
bolts were
loosening.

Once home in the garage I was able to get the engine
room stripped
down to see what was going on. On the drivers side, the
rear-most bolt had
left the car (of course, the most difficult to access!) and
the rest were very
loose on both sides of the engine.

My car's engine is a
331 stroker making
about 320 hp, and is fitted with period headers (identified
by this List as
from JC Whitney), and these header to cylinder head bolts have
had to be
tightened at least once every driving season.

I know on race cars
this is an
ongoing problem and that bolt locks are usually fitted to prevent
this fault.
But the headers I have leave little room for these mechanical
locks. Does
anyone else have this problem, and is there a reasonable solution
that doesn't
require engine removal to effect?

Perhaps a new set of headers?
One of the
many Loctite formulas that take high heat?

Help!

dave
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net
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From: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>
To: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <1377085097.13403.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
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	<7495733F0DF7644CBABA4EA216EF4E151A22F00E@OLAWPA-EXMB06.ad.garmin.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 14:03:51 -0300
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Header bolts locking strategies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

 In a word Theo, Yes. Must have had brain "lock". Shoulda thought of that 
myself! Thanks for the boot.

My headers require that six of these bolts (three on each side) have very 
small heads to clear the pipes. Currently I have standard bolts in these 
locations that have the heads reduced to take the open end of a 7/16" 
wrench. This is not a satisfactory solution as you cannot get sufficient 
torque on them to keep them tight. Lock wire might fix this. The rest of the 
bolts are ARP socket head manifold bolts. The walls of the socket end of 
these bolts are too thin to reduce enough to fit by grinding. What I need 
are socket head bolts that have a reduced head diameter with the next size 
down Allen key. A strange bolt for sure, but I have not been successful in 
finding such an animal on the WWW. Any ideas?

Also, is it a bad idea to keep driving the car with a leak at the 
cyl.head/manifold joint? Any danger of damaging the head or header surfaces?

Thanks for your help!

Dave


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:10 PM



Can you drill the bolt heads for lock wire?
Theo



>
> Hi Guys:
>
> I know on race cars this is an ongoing problem and that bolt locks are
> usually fitted to prevent this fault. But the headers I have leave
> little room for these mechanical locks. Does anyone else have this
> problem, and is there a reasonable solution that doesn't require engine
> removal to effect?
>
> Perhaps a new set of headers? One of the many Loctite formulas that
> take high heat?
>
> Help!
>
> dave
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 10:09:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: james ellis <hunber@bellsouth.net>
To: Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>, "Smit, Theo"
	<Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Header bolts locking strategies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

could burn a valve especially if you are running lean
________________________________
 From: Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>
To:
"Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>; tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Header bolts locking
strategies
  

In a word Theo, Yes. Must have had brain "lock". Shoulda
thought of that myself! Thanks for the boot.

My headers require that six of
these bolts (three on each side) have very small heads to clear the pipes.
Currently I have standard bolts in these locations that have the heads reduced
to take the open end of a 7/16" wrench. This is not a satisfactory solution as
you cannot get sufficient torque on them to keep them tight. Lock wire might
fix this. The rest of the bolts are ARP socket head manifold bolts. The walls
of the socket end of these bolts are too thin to reduce enough to fit by
grinding. What I need are socket head bolts that have a reduced head diameter
with the next size down Allen key. A strange bolt for sure, but I have not
been successful in finding such an animal on the WWW. Any ideas?

Also, is it
a bad idea to keep driving the car with a leak at the cyl.head/manifold joint?
Any danger of damaging the head or header surfaces?

Thanks for your help!
Dave


----- Original Message ----- From: "Smit, Theo"
<Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>;
<tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:10 PM



Can you
drill the bolt heads for lock wire?
Theo



> 
> Hi Guys:
> 
> I know on race
cars this is an ongoing problem and that bolt locks are
> usually fitted to
prevent this fault. But the headers I have leave
> little room for these
mechanical locks. Does anyone else have this
> problem, and is there a
reasonable solution that doesn't require engine
> removal to effect?
> 
>
Perhaps a new set of headers? One of the many Loctite formulas that
> take
high heat?
> 
> Help!
> 
> dave
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 11:19:53 2013
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From: Larry Paulick <lpaulick1@verizon.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 13:15:13 -0400
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To: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

These work, as  I have used them on my Tiger since 2000.

Larry


On Aug 21, 2013, at 12:12 PM, Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light) wrote:

> Dave, Header bolts are hard to keep tight on some applications, these locks
> are small enough they should fit. Otherwise you can always drill the bolt
> heads
> and safety wire them, something not easily done in a Tiger!
>
> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/stg-8913/overview/make/ford
>
> Also consider the Percy's gaskets, they work.
> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-65014/overview/make/ford
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On
> Behalf Of Dave Munroe
> Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 11:40 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
>
> Hi Guys:
>
> I'm just back from a week of realtively spirited "Touring" (about 1200
miles),
> and the engine grew progressively more noisy until it was clear the exhaust
> manifold bolts were loosening.
>
> Once home in the garage I was able to get the engine room stripped down to
see
> what was going on. On the drivers side, the rear-most bolt had left the car
> (of course, the most difficult to access!) and the rest were very loose on
> both sides of the engine.
>
>
> My car's engine is a 331 stroker making about 320 hp, and is fitted with
> period headers (identified by this List as from JC Whitney), and these
header
> to cylinder head bolts have had to be tightened at least once every driving
> season.
>
> I know on race cars this is an ongoing problem and that bolt locks are
usually
> fitted to prevent this fault. But the headers I have leave little room for
> these mechanical locks. Does anyone else have this problem, and is there a
> reasonable solution that doesn't require engine removal to effect?
>
> Perhaps a new set of headers? One of the many Loctite formulas that take
high
> heat?
>
> Help!
>
> dave
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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>
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From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Header bolts locking strategies
Thread-Index: AQHOnpBtNJOKwm1Vs0ikOBJ1ft4+wpmf5BhQ
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 17:19:11 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Header bolts locking strategies
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Hi Dave,

I use the header bolts that have 7/16 hex head with built in flange like
these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-915a/overview/

but they have these, too:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-84541/overview/make/ford
that have 3/8" heads.

Even though they're grade 8, you *should* be able to drill them for lock wire,
with a proper fixture in a drill press and high quality drill bits. I have
Wilwood rotors and drilled the rotor to hat bolts (socket cap screws) for lock
wire.

Theo



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From: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>
To: "Larry Paulick" <lpaulick1@verizon.net>
References: <1377085097.13403.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 15:01:37 -0300
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Cobra continuation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Larry:

Good to know. - I'm going to try them. I can put them on the 10 bolts that 
have no pipe interference, and lock-wire the other six. Those Percy's Head 
Gaskets sound good too. I don't need to keep digging down into the header 
area all the time to keep the headers sealed!

Appreciate the input!

Dave



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Paulick" <lpaulick1@verizon.net>
To: "Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)" <mark.rense@ge.com>
Cc: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 2:15 PM

These work, as  I have used them on my Tiger since 2000.

Larry


On Aug 21, 2013, at 12:12 PM, Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light) wrote:

> Dave, Header bolts are hard to keep tight on some applications, these 
> locks
> are small enough they should fit. Otherwise you can always drill the bolt
> heads
> and safety wire them, something not easily done in a Tiger!
>
> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/stg-8913/overview/make/ford
>
> Also consider the Percy's gaskets, they work.
> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-65014/overview/make/ford
_______________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 15:18:31 -0400
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
To: Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Header bolts locking strategies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I would safety wire them for sure. Lock washer at minimum. Threadlocker for
sure.

Driving with them loose could destroy your engine, next time stop and fix
it, you were lucky.

Michael
On Aug 21, 2013 1:07 PM, "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca> wrote:

> In a word Theo, Yes. Must have had brain "lock". Shoulda thought of that
> myself! Thanks for the boot.
>
> My headers require that six of these bolts (three on each side) have very
> small heads to clear the pipes. Currently I have standard bolts in these
> locations that have the heads reduced to take the open end of a 7/16"
> wrench. This is not a satisfactory solution as you cannot get sufficient
> torque on them to keep them tight. Lock wire might fix this. The rest of
> the bolts are ARP socket head manifold bolts. The walls of the socket end
> of these bolts are too thin to reduce enough to fit by grinding. What I
> need are socket head bolts that have a reduced head diameter with the next
> size down Allen key. A strange bolt for sure, but I have not been
> successful in finding such an animal on the WWW. Any ideas?
>
> Also, is it a bad idea to keep driving the car with a leak at the
> cyl.head/manifold joint? Any danger of damaging the head or header surfaces?
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
> To: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:10 PM
>
>
>
> Can you drill the bolt heads for lock wire?
> Theo
>
>
>
>
>> Hi Guys:
>>
>> I know on race cars this is an ongoing problem and that bolt locks are
>> usually fitted to prevent this fault. But the headers I have leave
>> little room for these mechanical locks. Does anyone else have this
>> problem, and is there a reasonable solution that doesn't require engine
>> removal to effect?
>>
>> Perhaps a new set of headers? One of the many Loctite formulas that
>> take high heat?
>>
>> Help!
>>
>> dave
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/tigers/michael@**
> michaelshortt.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 14:12:51 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Dave Munroe'" <dave@munroe.ca>, "'Smit, Theo'"
	<Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 16:03:46 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6ekf89h34eCxwLRe2zk+x+4hI1wgAFvgog
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-08-21_08:2013-08-21,2013-08-21,1970-01-01
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Header bolts locking strategies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave
	The original Ford exhaust manifolds used C2OZ-9A447-A locking tabs.
My guess is they will not work on most headers but the concept is still a
good one.  They are available at the Mustang shops and could possibly be
modified to work on some headers.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Munroe
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:04 PM
To: Smit, Theo; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Header bolts locking strategies


 In a word Theo, Yes. Must have had brain "lock". Shoulda thought of that
myself! Thanks for the boot.

My headers require that six of these bolts (three on each side) have very
small heads to clear the pipes. Currently I have standard bolts in these
locations that have the heads reduced to take the open end of a 7/16"
wrench. This is not a satisfactory solution as you cannot get sufficient
torque on them to keep them tight. Lock wire might fix this. The rest of the

bolts are ARP socket head manifold bolts. The walls of the socket end of
these bolts are too thin to reduce enough to fit by grinding. What I need
are socket head bolts that have a reduced head diameter with the next size
down Allen key. A strange bolt for sure, but I have not been successful in
finding such an animal on the WWW. Any ideas?

Also, is it a bad idea to keep driving the car with a leak at the
cyl.head/manifold joint? Any danger of damaging the head or header surfaces?

Thanks for your help!

Dave


----- Original Message -----
From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
To: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 1:10 PM



Can you drill the bolt heads for lock wire?
Theo



>
> Hi Guys:
>
> I know on race cars this is an ongoing problem and that bolt locks are
> usually fitted to prevent this fault. But the headers I have leave
> little room for these mechanical locks. Does anyone else have this
> problem, and is there a reasonable solution that doesn't require
> engine removal to effect?
>
> Perhaps a new set of headers? One of the many Loctite formulas that
> take high heat?
>
> Help!
>
> dave
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 18:51:06 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Alex Haugland'" <ahauglan@gmail.com>, "'tiger list'"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 20:38:00 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6eJX7hHTzcM/GrRPOLcVozKy12dQAqX8qA
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Correct/most original soft top material for an early
 Mark 1 Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Alex
	I looked in the Parts List but not enough detail is listed.  I can
only go by what is listed in the Sunbeam Specialties catalog; Crush-Grain
type Everflex British Vinyl is also available in a variety of colors in the
leatherette finish used on the early Tigers.   That still means little to me
so I think you should talk to Rick at SS to see if he has better or more
complete information.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alex Haugland
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 12:21 AM
To: tiger list
Subject: [Tigers] Correct/most original soft top material for an early Mark
1 Tiger


Hello!  I'm actively restoring a pretty original early mark 1 Tiger
(B9470334LRXFE) and want to bring it back to as close to original condition
as is reasonable for a car I intend to actually drive.  As the car is in
need of a complete repainting, I'm planning the teardown and gathering the
pieces that need to be replaced for when I start putting it back together.
To that end, the top on the car is a replacement in pinpoint vinyl which has
some tears and other issues leading it to needing to be replaced.

To that end, I've seen different sites listing conflicting or at least
unclear information as to what material is closest to the original.  I'm not
sure if it should be a pinpoint vinyl or a crushed grain vinyl.  The
Everflex at least has the grey interior, but I don't know if its texture is
at all correct and would appreciate whatever guidance all of you can give.
Thank you very much!

--Alex Haugland
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 19:22:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger article
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

It's a month away from the second annual Boston Cup concours, and Boston Common magazine this month includes a story this month about a few of the entrants, chief among them Emily Rooney and her late father Andy Rooney's recently restored B3820. She sent me the following link:
http://bostoncommon-magazine.com/living/articles/boston-cup-enthusiasts-talk-dream-cars


By the way, first email from new Mac, old one retired last week after ten years.

Rande Bellman
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 11:16:15 -0400 (EDT)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Tigers] Hood scoops
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Looking for a metal hood scoop that will fit over the stock Tiger  air 
cleaner.  There are plenty of plastic and fiberglass models, but having  a hard 
time finding one in metal. Any ideas?
Thanks, Mark L
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References: <5377c.21691d71.3f47853f@aol.com>
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michaelsavga@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 11:27:51 -0400
To: CoolVT@aol.com
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood scoops
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Local trade school with metal working program or any serious bike builders
near you who craft their own tanks and fenders?

I'd ask who might own an English Wheel, that's your man.

You might also check out scoops for other cars from the past, find a junk
hood for one of those and cut it out.

You could also consider a raised hood cowl design, turn it around backwards
and cut it to suit your application.
search on eBay under "Metal Hood Scoop", several come up.

Michael Shortt


On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 11:16 AM, <CoolVT@aol.com> wrote:

> Looking for a metal hood scoop that will fit over the stock Tiger  air
> cleaner.  There are plenty of plastic and fiberglass models, but having  a
> hard
> time finding one in metal. Any ideas?
> Thanks, Mark L
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
>
>
>


-- 







Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael@michaelshortt.com
912-232-9390


This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
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that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
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have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you
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Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 12:38:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Ford=5CTiger_Starters_=E2=80=93_Lesson_Learned?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

B B B B 
B 
Ford made 2 starters for the 260\289, an automatic version and a
manual version.
B 
The Ford starter for the Tiger flywheel uses the automatic
version.B  Other 260/289 flywheels used the manual version.B  See the attached
link for the differences.B  I had another link to the Ford starter pictures
but cannot seem to find it.
B 
http://www.bcbroncos.com/ford%20starters.pdf
B 
You can use our original Ford starter with SS headers but removal would
require removing the passenger side header. Not an option in my book.
B 
World
Power Starter (WPS) makes a nice Hi-Torque starter that is smaller than
original that does not require removing the one header to get it out and is
priced around $70.B  
B 
Part number 3241N fits thenon Tiger flywheel used on
Mustangs etc with manual transmissions if you swapped in a 289 non Tiger\Ford
motor with the corresponding flywheel.
B 
Part number 3268N fits the stock
Tiger flywheel used on Tigers 260\289 with manual transmissions. This is
considered the bautomaticb starter that was used on Tigers due to the
flywheel. B This starter can also be used on the Tigerbs with a swapped in
289 and flywheel from a Mustang or similar but requires a B<b to 3/8b
spacer between the starter and the bell housing due to the longer snout.
B 
I
am sure there are other specifications to take into account but this fits my
understanding and thought I would pass it along.
B 
Regards
Joel Martin
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Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 18:15:14 -0500
From: "A. C." <v8tracker@gmail.com>
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To: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
References: <1377138147.26172.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger article
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Nice car.........and legs.

A. C. Tynes



On 8/21/2013 9:22 PM, snakebit289 wrote:

> It's a month away from the second annual Boston Cup concours, and Boston Common magazine this month includes a story this month about a few of the entrants, chief among them Emily Rooney and her late father Andy Rooney's recently restored B3820. She sent me the following link:
> http://bostoncommon-magazine.com/living/articles/boston-cup-enthusiasts-talk-dream-cars
>
>
> By the way, first email from new Mac, old one retired last week after ten years.
>
> Rande Bellman
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 22 17:53:17 2013
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Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 23:48:25 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: "A. C." <v8tracker@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger article
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Uh, yeah..   like WOW...   oh yeah, the car is nice too...
Gary

    ----- Original Message -----  From: A. C. <v8tracker@gmail.com>  To:
snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>, tigers@autox.team.net  Sent: Thu, 22 Aug
2013 23:15:14 -0000 (UTC)  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger article    Nice
car.........and legs.    A. C. Tynes        On 8/21/2013 9:22 PM, snakebit289
wrote:    > It's a month away from the second annual Boston Cup concours, and
Boston Common magazine this month includes a story this month about a few of
the entrants, chief among them Emily Rooney and her late father Andy Rooney's
recently restored B3820. She sent me the following link:  >
http://bostoncommon-magazine.com/living/articles/boston-cup-enthusiasts-talk-
dream-cars  >  >  > By the way, first email from new Mac, old one retired last
week after ten years.  >  > Rande Bellman  >
_______________________________________________  >  > tigers@autox.team.net  >
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html  > Archive:
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 22 18:44:44 2013
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References: <5377c.21691d71.3f47853f@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 10:44:33 +1000
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: "CoolVT@aol.com" <CoolVT@aol.com>
Cc: Tiger Talk List Tiger <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood scoops
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark,

when you say fit over the stock tiger air cleaner.. i'm a little
confused... Is the stock cleaner touching the bonnet? If so it will touch
the extremities before it touches the center of the bonnet where the hoods
go... if you needed one to clear the "width" of the cleaner.. that would be
a VERY WIDE scoop.

is this a thing for looks.. or to solve a clearance issue?


On 23 August 2013 01:16, <CoolVT@aol.com> wrote:

> Looking for a metal hood scoop that will fit over the stock Tiger  air
> cleaner.  There are plenty of plastic and fiberglass models, but having  a
> hard
> time finding one in metal. Any ideas?
> Thanks, Mark L
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 22 18:54:26 2013
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 20:51:36 -0400 (EDT)
To: michael.s.king@gmail.com
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1377219096;
	bh=Ua10gWjYJolfsHmKaLpxDXqrTV7PawbFLPSy/yudLw0=;
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood scoops
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

It's a clearance issue.  The air cleaner is about 16" wide so  I need a 
scoop at least that wide.
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 8/22/2013 8:44:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
michael.s.king@gmail.com writes:

 
Mark,

when you say fit over the stock tiger air cleaner.. i'm a  little 
confused... Is the stock cleaner touching the bonnet? If so it will  touch the 
extremities before it touches the center of the bonnet where the  hoods go... if 
you needed one to clear the "width" of the cleaner.. that would  be a VERY 
WIDE scoop. 


is this a thing for looks.. or to solve a  clearance issue?



On 23 August 2013 01:16, <_CoolVT@aol.com_ (mailto:CoolVT@aol.com) > wrote:

Looking  for a metal hood scoop that will fit over the stock Tiger  air
cleaner.  There are plenty of plastic and fiberglass  models, but having  a 
hard
time finding one in metal. Any  ideas?
Thanks, Mark  L
_______________________________________________

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Michael King 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 22 19:02:59 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 21:02:51 -0400 (EDT)
To: CoolVT@aol.com, michael.s.king@gmail.com
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1377219771;
	bh=MR6RHIJZIAX+ERt5pfcydufSQP35urnEPAsWMdpKOnE=;
	h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type;
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood scoops
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I can't imagine an ots (off the shelf) scoop that wouldn't look really  
awkward. It might make sense to talk to someone like a Steve Alcala about doing 
 some type of "power bulge", such as MG used to fit the six cylinder in the 
 MGC?
 
 
In a message dated 8/22/2013 5:54:44 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
CoolVT@aol.com writes:

It's a  clearance issue.  The air cleaner is about 16" wide so  I need a  
scoop at least that wide.
Mark


In a message dated 8/22/2013  8:44:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
michael.s.king@gmail.com  writes:


Mark,

when you say fit over the stock tiger air  cleaner.. i'm a  little 
confused... Is the stock cleaner touching the  bonnet? If so it will  touch 
the 
extremities before it touches the  center of the bonnet where the  hoods 
go... if 
you needed one to  clear the "width" of the cleaner.. that would  be a VERY 
WIDE scoop.  


is this a thing for looks.. or to solve a  clearance  issue?



On 23 August 2013 01:16, <_CoolVT@aol.com_  (mailto:CoolVT@aol.com) > wrote:

Looking  for a metal hood  scoop that will fit over the stock Tiger  air
cleaner.  There are  plenty of plastic and fiberglass  models, but having  
a  
hard
time finding one in metal. Any  ideas?
Thanks, Mark   L
_______________________________________________

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Michael King  
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 22 21:14:36 2013
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References: <c934e.73470789.3f480c18@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 13:13:32 +1000
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: "CoolVT@aol.com" <CoolVT@aol.com>
Cc: Tiger Talk List Tiger <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hood scoops
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

In New Zealand mal has rebuilt his tiger and added a large "buldge" in the
rear of the bonnet.. might be worth a look, he got it off a donor bonnet:

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r64/kiwimal/ST/e1dee0d3.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r64/kiwimal/ST/a818686d.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r64/kiwimal/ST/142bfeb2.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r64/kiwimal/ST/252fc582.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r64/kiwimal/ST/47787d67.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r64/kiwimal/ST/254d7c9b.jpg




On 23 August 2013 10:51, <CoolVT@aol.com> wrote:

> **
> *It's a clearance issue.  The air cleaner is about 16" wide so I need a
> scoop at least that wide.*
> *Mark*
>
>  In a message dated 8/22/2013 8:44:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> michael.s.king@gmail.com writes:
>
>  Mark,
>
> when you say fit over the stock tiger air cleaner.. i'm a little
> confused... Is the stock cleaner touching the bonnet? If so it will touch
> the extremities before it touches the center of the bonnet where the hoods
> go... if you needed one to clear the "width" of the cleaner.. that would be
> a VERY WIDE scoop.
>
> is this a thing for looks.. or to solve a clearance issue?
>
>
> On 23 August 2013 01:16, <CoolVT@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Looking for a metal hood scoop that will fit over the stock Tiger  air
>> cleaner.  There are plenty of plastic and fiberglass models, but having
>>  a hard
>> time finding one in metal. Any ideas?
>> Thanks, Mark L
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King
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Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 07:50:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Terry Packer <packertl3@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Madison, Wisconsin?
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Just wondered if there are any Tiger owners located in the Madison area? Will be here for a few more days and would enjoy a brief get-together.

Terry Packer
9470018
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From: "Bates,Robert E Jr" <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: weather strip
Thread-Index: Ac6gGYAqrseI14wHQJm0NW5dq6PqEQ==
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 15:57:42 +0000
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Thanks to all who responded about my weather strip question.  With your help I
now have it figured out.



Bob
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 06:12:50 2013
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From: "denis mercier" <denismercier@telvic.net>
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Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 08:07:08 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger 5 speed
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Hi All.
I spoke yesterday with Dan Williams from Top Loader Transmissions and he told
me is working on top loader 5speed with the original case.
Denis.
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Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 08:46:58 -0500
From: TtT <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: denis mercier <denismercier@telvic.net>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger 5 speed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

a 5 speed in a stock case ---that would be in demand. I wonder what one will cost? Be great to own a bullet proof 5 speed in stock form.
Sent from Huawei Mobile

denis mercier <denismercier@telvic.net> wrote:

>Hi All.
>I spoke yesterday with Dan Williams from Top Loader Transmissions and he told
>me is working on top loader 5speed with the original case.
>Denis.
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73@yahoo.com
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From: "jimmc13" <jimmc13@hughes.net>
To: "'denis mercier'" <denismercier@telvic.net>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <B6CD60094BCD49B68AC1018CAF4F8CF8@D7F0WHF1>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 08:58:19 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6gw0jBWu3WTuveQG29z4Gs4iPTrAADkSMA
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger 5 speed
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Denis,
This could be very good news.  My trans is an HEH-E and I am having an
ongoing debate about wide versus close ratio while the drive train is out.
Jim 
B382000175 

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of denis mercier
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 7:07 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger 5 speed

Hi All.
I spoke yesterday with Dan Williams from Top Loader Transmissions and he
told
me is working on top loader 5speed with the original case.
Denis.
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 10:52:43 2013
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From: "denis mercier" <denismercier@telvic.net>
To: "jimmc13" <jimmc13@hughes.net>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 12:52:16 -0400
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger 5 speed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Jim.
One month after i finished the restauration and used my Tiger i changed the 
close ratio for wide ratio gear set, it's realy more pleasant to drive.
But a transmission with overdrive would be better..........
Denis.
B382000926LRXFE
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jimmc13" <jimmc13@hughes.net>
To: "'denis mercier'" <denismercier@telvic.net>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Tiger 5 speed


> Denis,
> This could be very good news.  My trans is an HEH-E and I am having an
> ongoing debate about wide versus close ratio while the drive train is out.
> Jim
> B382000175
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of denis mercier
> Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 7:07 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger 5 speed
>
> Hi All.
> I spoke yesterday with Dan Williams from Top Loader Transmissions and he
> told
> me is working on top loader 5speed with the original case.
> Denis.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jimmc13@hughes.net
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References: <B6CD60094BCD49B68AC1018CAF4F8CF8@D7F0WHF1>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 17:34:09 -0400
From: Chip Broadbooks <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
To: denis mercier <denismercier@telvic.net>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger 5 speed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Dan rebuilt mine with his "racing" package. I am very pleased with it. I
want to say I am running at 75mph @ 3000rpms in 4th.

When I spoke to him on the phone, he said, "Bring it over and we will take
a look at it." What I didn't realize was "we" was he and I. Super nice guy.
On Aug 24, 2013 8:12 AM, "denis mercier" <denismercier@telvic.net> wrote:

> Hi All.
> I spoke yesterday with Dan Williams from Top Loader Transmissions and he
> told
> me is working on top loader 5speed with the original case.
> Denis.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 08:17:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: "michael.s.king@gmail.com" <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger hood scoop pix
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Michael,
I know I'm late to the party here, but the modified hood that you sent pictures of this week is probably the nicest modified Tiger one that I've seen, with the LAT hood coming in second. I know the manhours to produce those modifications must have been excessive, but I bet the popularity would be high if the seller could keep the cost affordable somehow.

Rande Bellman
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 13:45:59 2013
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From: "Jerry Mo Christopherson" <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>
To: "Tiger Autox" <TIGERS@AUTOX.TEAM.NET>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 14:43:21 -0500
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Subject: [Tigers] YouTube video
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OK, Tiger/Alpinedom, I need some help.  I have finished a 1hr. video on how
I overhauled the Girling Servo unit.  I'm going to upload to YouTube, but I
would like help in selecting the categories where to put the video.  Of
course "Autos" would be the first category, but after that what would be the
best, to get it easily to all that might be interested or wanted to see it.

 

Jerry Christopherson

9473187

TAC insp. #58
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 26 15:30:34 2013
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From: Rollright@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 17:30:03 -0400 (EDT)
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d33ca521bc8db6433
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 294
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Simply putt;
 
Girling servo rebuild
 
 
Jim Armstrong
 
 
In a message dated 8/26/2013 2:05:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tigers-request@autox.team.net writes:

Send  Tigers mailing list submissions to
tigers@autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide  Web, visit
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
or, via email, send a message  with subject or body 'help' to
tigers-request@autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the  list at
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When replying,  please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of  Tigers digest..."


Today's Topics:

1. YouTube  video (Jerry Mo  Christopherson)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message:  1
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 14:43:21 -0500
From: "Jerry Mo Christopherson"  <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>
To: "Tiger Autox"  <TIGERS@AUTOX.TEAM.NET>
Subject: [Tigers] YouTube  video

OK, Tiger/Alpinedom, I need some  help.  I have finished a 1hr. video on how
I overhauled the Girling  Servo unit.  I'm going to upload to YouTube, but I
would like help in  selecting the categories where to put the video.  Of
course "Autos"  would be the first category, but after that what would be 
the
best, to get  it easily to all that might be interested or wanted to see  
it.



Jerry Christopherson

9473187

TAC insp.  #58


------------------------------

_______________________________________________
Tigers  mailing  list
Tigers@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers


End  of Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue  294
**************************************
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 26 18:59:57 2013
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From: "Eric Gibeaut" <sunbeams@sc.rr.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 20:59:44 -0400
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Subject: [Tigers] TE/AE United Registration has been extended
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Rootes Group Enthusiasts,

We've had a great response to this year's United XXXII in St. Michaels, Md.
As of today, we have over 130 people and 60+ cars attending. This is a
reminder that if you plan to join us for this year's event, get those
registrations in. We've been able to extend the early registration rates at
the hotel until September 9th or until the block of rooms is sold out. We'll
also honor the early United registration rates until September 9th. Because
of overwhelming interest in the Chesapeake Cruise, we are now sold out. You
can register online at:

http://www.rootesamerica.org
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 10:42:34 2013
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From: "Jerry Mo Christopherson" <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>
To: "Tiger Autox" <TIGERS@AUTOX.TEAM.NET>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 11:41:15 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6kDWmF2aQANf8PSXe65cvFkEb4sg==
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Subject: [Tigers] The Girling Overhaul
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Finally got this uploaded to YouTube (20 hours).  I tried to keep it as
short as I could and get the information across (still an hour long, sorry).
Something I somehow edited out was that I did, in fact, use the new foam
rubber under the leather seal.  I'm sure other things will come to light
after a few of you see the video; but if you will leave a comment, I will
try to answer.

 

Jerry Christopherson

9473187

TAX insp. #58

 

 

http://youtu.be/quRJ4_sqMYU
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 11:43:05 2013
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 17:42:40 +0000
From: "Clyde McLaughlin" <clydemclaughlin@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>,<tigers-request@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 295
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Would like a call today, going on 8 days trying to get contact, Ty Clyde
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

------Original Message------
From: <tigers-request@autox.team.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 12:00:02 PM GMT-0600
Subject: Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 295

Send Tigers mailing list submissions to
	tigers@autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	tigers-request@autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
	tigers-owner@autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Tigers digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 294 (Rollright@aol.com)
   2. TE/AE United Registration has been extended (Eric Gibeaut)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 17:30:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rollright@aol.com
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 294

Simply putt;

Girling servo rebuild


Jim Armstrong


In a message dated 8/26/2013 2:05:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
tigers-request@autox.team.net writes:

Send  Tigers mailing list submissions to
tigers@autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide  Web, visit
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Today's Topics:

1. YouTube  video (Jerry Mo  Christopherson)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message:  1
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 14:43:21 -0500
From: "Jerry Mo Christopherson"  <JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>
To: "Tiger Autox"  <TIGERS@AUTOX.TEAM.NET>
Subject: [Tigers] YouTube  video

OK, Tiger/Alpinedom, I need some  help.  I have finished a 1hr. video on how
I overhauled the Girling  Servo unit.  I'm going to upload to YouTube, but I
would like help in  selecting the categories where to put the video.  Of
course "Autos"  would be the first category, but after that what would be
the
best, to get  it easily to all that might be interested or wanted to see
it.



Jerry Christopherson

9473187

TAC insp.  #58


------------------------------

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End  of Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue  294
**************************************


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 20:59:44 -0400
From: "Eric Gibeaut" <sunbeams@sc.rr.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] TE/AE United Registration has been extended

Rootes Group Enthusiasts,

We've had a great response to this year's United XXXII in St. Michaels, Md.
As of today, we have over 130 people and 60+ cars attending. This is a
reminder that if you plan to join us for this year's event, get those
registrations in. We've been able to extend the early registration rates at
the hotel until September 9th or until the block of rooms is sold out. We'll
also honor the early United registration rates until September 9th. Because
of overwhelming interest in the Chesapeake Cruise, we are now sold out. You
can register online at:

http://www.rootesamerica.org


------------------------------

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers


End of Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 295
**************************************
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 14:20:51 2013
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Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 13:20:36 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
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To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-08-28_09:2013-08-28,2013-08-28,1970-01-01
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Subject: [Tigers] Bonneville...or Bust!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, the car is about as good as it is going to get. It starts, runs, 
makes lots of noise, far more than teh turbo motor, and nothign seems to 
be leaking. Maybe a slow leak in the tires, but that's what air 
compressors are for isn't it? maybe a a loose schrader valve... I 
tightened it so I'll check to  see if it leaked more.

We are headed up on the  5th. We are supposed to be able to get on the  
salt that afternoon. Will then go check in and if time go back and do 
some pit set up. Always have to put down a tarp under the car, so we put 
one down that is about half an acre in size... and then put up the 10  x 
20 ft shade canopy.  car will stay in the trailer until the 6th and if 
inspection is going on we will get in line for that. Entry fee is $$$$$ 
bucks now.  Drivers meeting is the 7th at 8 am at registration 
trailer.   Then a drive down the salt to check for smoothness and ruts 
and the runs start.

Any and all Sunbeams are welcome in the pits with us. You may or may not 
have to get a car pass to get into the pit though. We will always have 
someting cold to drink: water, sodas, maybe a beer or two.  Might want 
to bring a chair though. I will have some and a table but seats can 
sometimes be short around my pit.

See you all there!!! Hope we don't disappoint!

mayf

-- 
______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 07:55:03 2013
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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 06:54:48 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
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To: tigers@autox.team.net
References: <521E5B94.1020301@mayfco.com>
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bonneville...or Bust!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Theo mentioned checking the daily run list for results..great 
idea...here is the link to the main  WOS home organization page.  In 
large letters is teh link to results and photos about the middle of the 
page...

http://www.saltflats.com

Lots of other information on that page as well.  Give it a look...

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed

On 8/28/2013 1:20 PM, Larry Mayfield wrote:
> Well, the car is about as good as it is going to get. It starts, runs, 
> makes lots of noise, far more than teh turbo motor, and nothign seems 
> to be leaking. Maybe a slow leak in the tires, but that's what air 
> compressors are for isn't it? maybe a a loose schrader valve... I 
> tightened it so I'll check to  see if it leaked more.
>
> We are headed up on the  5th. We are supposed to be able to get on 
> the  salt that afternoon. Will then go check in and if time go back 
> and do some pit set up. Always have to put down a tarp under the car, 
> so we put one down that is about half an acre in size... and then put 
> up the 10  x 20 ft shade canopy.  car will stay in the trailer until 
> the 6th and if inspection is going on we will get in line for that. 
> Entry fee is $$$$$ bucks now.  Drivers meeting is the 7th at 8 am at 
> registration trailer.   Then a drive down the salt to check for 
> smoothness and ruts and the runs start.
>
> Any and all Sunbeams are welcome in the pits with us. You may or may 
> not have to get a car pass to get into the pit though. We will always 
> have someting cold to drink: water, sodas, maybe a beer or two.  Might 
> want to bring a chair though. I will have some and a table but seats 
> can sometimes be short around my pit.
>
> See you all there!!! Hope we don't disappoint!
>
> mayf
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 31 11:58:39 2013
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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 10:58:22 -0700
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
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To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Tigers] Bonneville
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The Host organization for World of Speed just announced that the salt is 
excellent with no standing water anywhere except at the end of the 
road.  So I am doing the final loading and will head out next Thursday 
morning around 4 am.   We always gop up I-15 to US 93 junction and go 
through Ash Meadows, Hiko, Lund, Ely and then US93A to Wendover. When we 
get there we will go straight to the salt to park the trailer until 
Friday morning. The set up the pit and go to tech and do the $$$$ entry 
thing....

I will be on CB channel 27 on the way up if anyone want to chat...

mayf

-- 
______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed
_______________________________________________

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	UTC
From: <j.sweeney8733@sbcglobal.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 11:54:19 -0700
Subject: Re: [Tigers] The Girling Overhaul
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the effort it took to film your brake booster overhaul. It was very
informative, as I am considering whether or not to rebuild my booster. The
link I have for your Youtube video is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quRJ4_sqMYU

John Sweeney
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