From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 12:12:07 2013
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2013 19:09:44 +0000 (UTC)
From: modtiger@comcast.net
To: Tiger e-mail list <tigers@autox.team.net>
  (Mac)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: new Tiger write up
Thread-Index: LOAQvuaBBIKsVyTYeTwDpyhUakBQNQ==
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Subject: [Tigers] new Tiger write up
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Check out the new article on TIGERS at yahoo autos 

http://autos.yahoo.com/news/sunbeam-tiger-carroll-other-shelby-174843445.html 

Tom Hall 
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 14:23:23 2013
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From: "65 Sunbeam Tiger" <65sunbeamtiger@comcast.net>
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2013 13:20:19 -0800
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Subject: [Tigers] Heater bezel silkscreen ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

A while back there was a seller on EBay that had re-silkscreened an overlay
for the heater control bezel ( Cold Warm Hot   Off Car Screen) - was that
anyone of this list, or do you recall who it was?  I'm putting the dash back
together in my long term moonstone B947 car, and could use one.  Thanks.

 

Doug Babcock

Beaverton, OR

Sr. TAC Inspector

3 Tigers and 2 Alpines
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 15:37:16 2013
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 09:34:55 +1100
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: Tom Hall <modtiger@comcast.net>
Cc: Tiger e-mail list <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] new Tiger write up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

What a pity they didnt do much research.. perhaps Wikipedia?

*"Sunbeam made a splash in the US in 1959 when it introduced the Alpine, a
sporty little ride with a 2.3-liter inline-4*"
They have confused the "mark" alpines with the "series" cars.

*"The biggest challenge in building the Tiger was fitting a large American
engine in a tiny UK-designed body. To accomplish this, the design team used
rack-and-pinion steering and a number of other modifications considered
exotic at the time*"
Um... err exotic?

There are also a few misleading statements regarding the spec...


On 2 December 2013 06:09, <modtiger@comcast.net> wrote:

> Check out the new article on TIGERS at yahoo autos
>
>
> http://autos.yahoo.com/news/sunbeam-tiger-carroll-other-shelby-174843445.html
>
> Tom Hall
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 15:58:34 2013
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2013 14:53:27 -0800 (PST)
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] new Tiger write up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

We've been complaining about the wiki entry, and this new fiction from Yahoo(apparently from A Yahoo) makes the wiki stuff almost seem like the Bible by comparison. While I think of it, Michael, look on the Facebook 'Sunbeam Tiger' page, specifically at the photos of the Ken Miles prototype pre-restoration. Heck, this goes for modtiger, as well. Recognize anyone in the two photos?

rb




On Sunday, December 1, 2013 5:34 PM, michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com> wrote:
 
What a pity they didnt do much research.. perhaps Wikipedia?

*"Sunbeam made a splash in the US in 1959 when it introduced the Alpine, a
sporty little ride with a 2.3-liter inline-4*"
They have confused the "mark" alpines with the "series" cars.

*"The biggest challenge in building the Tiger was fitting a large American
engine in a tiny UK-designed body. To accomplish this, the design team used
rack-and-pinion steering and a number of other modifications considered
exotic at the time*"
Um... err exotic?

There are also a few misleading statements regarding the spec...


On 2 December 2013 06:09, <modtiger@comcast.net> wrote:

> Check out the new article on TIGERS at yahoo autos
>
>
> http://autos.yahoo.com/news/sunbeam-tiger-carroll-other-shelby-174843445.html
>
> Tom Hall
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/snakebit289@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 16:46:47 2013
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From: "jim" <jim@island.net>
To: "'65 Sunbeam Tiger'" <65sunbeamtiger@comcast.net>, "'Tiger E-Mail
	List'" <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <000001ceeedb$23d51a20$6b7f4e60$@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2013 15:44:05 -0800
Content-Language: en-us
Thread-Index: Ac7u2pGdyqTT/0rVQ/Wgc3sl3kIIBwAFGgug
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Heater bezel silkscreen ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Doug


Try Paul Breuhan...


http://www.breuhan.com/Sunbeam.html        paul@breuhan.com








Jim
B382000446





-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of 65 Sunbeam Tiger
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2013 1:20 PM
To: Tiger E-Mail List
Subject: [Tigers] Heater bezel silkscreen ?

A while back there was a seller on EBay that had re-silkscreened an overlay
for the heater control bezel ( Cold Warm Hot   Off Car Screen) - was that
anyone of this list, or do you recall who it was?  I'm putting the dash back
together in my long term moonstone B947 car, and could use one.  Thanks.

 

Doug Babcock

Beaverton, OR

Sr. TAC Inspector

3 Tigers and 2 Alpines
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 22:17:07 2013
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 21:14:28 -0800
To: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I was just watching an episode with my son.  It was about max overhearing a
plot to kill rocket scientists, but then lost his memory because of some
pills.  The best part is that it featured the car for much of the episode.  I
know that the history is that an Alpine was used when the machine gun popped
out of the bonnet.  I'm sure it was used for lots of other scenes scenes. But
in the driving scenes on this episode, it was definitely a Tiger (with dual
exhausts).  They really tossed the car around too.

But interestingly with all the scenes where they were sitting in the car or
standing next to it, it had a S1-S2 windscreen on the car (with no glass).
But it still had the S3-SV/Tiger quarter windows.  I had no idea they could be
swapped that way.  The back edge of the frame clearly curved, while the
quarter window forward edge was straight.

Just some interesting tid bits.
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 22:22:59 2013
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References: <F3796D37-66A9-4E81-9C47-72D0CACCE76B@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 16:20:36 +1100
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jay that's very odd regarding the early screen and 1/4 windows.. they would
not fit without modificaitn as the screens sit at different angles... as
for the driving scenes.. don't be sure it wasn't an alpine.. I was watching
one a while back and noticed that there was carb smoke coming out the left
rear pipe.. nothing from the right... i suspect alpine as in the aerial
shot you could see an alpine trans shifter.

As a side note in some episodes the car has non peaked chrome rims.. LAT 70
wheels and in some crash scenes they used a S3 Alpine.


On 3 December 2013 16:14, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

> I was just watching an episode with my son.  It was about max overhearing a
> plot to kill rocket scientists, but then lost his memory because of some
> pills.  The best part is that it featured the car for much of the episode.
>  I
> know that the history is that an Alpine was used when the machine gun
> popped
> out of the bonnet.  I'm sure it was used for lots of other scenes scenes.
> But
> in the driving scenes on this episode, it was definitely a Tiger (with dual
> exhausts).  They really tossed the car around too.
>
> But interestingly with all the scenes where they were sitting in the car or
> standing next to it, it had a S1-S2 windscreen on the car (with no glass).
> But it still had the S3-SV/Tiger quarter windows.  I had no idea they
> could be
> swapped that way.  The back edge of the frame clearly curved, while the
> quarter window forward edge was straight.
>
> Just some interesting tid bits.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 22:34:42 2013
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	Mon, 02 Dec 2013 21:31:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 21:31:29 -0800
References: <F3796D37-66A9-4E81-9C47-72D0CACCE76B@gmail.com>
	<CAET8snVpNS6bVTaHuvTSu1FtOfopx+RkqWYtWsPsgTxWGt842g@mail.gmail.com>
To: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I could have sworn exhaust was coming out of both pipes.  But, I can't swear
to that - and sadly we deleted the episode.  But, I can swear to the S1-S2
windshield frame (without glass).  Completely odd.

The shots when they were looking over their shoulders, at the dash and over
the bonnet, were a bit odd.  The dash was black, the clock was covered with a
round flat black disk.  There was a factory radio.  But the shifter was not a
TIger or Alpine shifter that I've ever seen.





On Dec 2, 2013, at 9:20 PM, michael king wrote:

> Jay that's very odd regarding the early screen and 1/4 windows.. they would
not fit without modificaitn as the screens sit at different angles... as for
the driving scenes.. don't be sure it wasn't an alpine.. I was watching one a
while back and noticed that there was carb smoke coming out the left rear
pipe.. nothing from the right... i suspect alpine as in the aerial shot you
could see an alpine trans shifter.
>
> As a side note in some episodes the car has non peaked chrome rims.. LAT 70
wheels and in some crash scenes they used a S3 Alpine.
>
>
> On 3 December 2013 16:14, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:
> I was just watching an episode with my son.  It was about max overhearing a
> plot to kill rocket scientists, but then lost his memory because of some
> pills.  The best part is that it featured the car for much of the episode.
I
> know that the history is that an Alpine was used when the machine gun
popped
> out of the bonnet.  I'm sure it was used for lots of other scenes scenes.
But
> in the driving scenes on this episode, it was definitely a Tiger (with dual
> exhausts).  They really tossed the car around too.
>
> But interestingly with all the scenes where they were sitting in the car or
> standing next to it, it had a S1-S2 windscreen on the car (with no glass).
> But it still had the S3-SV/Tiger quarter windows.  I had no idea they could
be
> swapped that way.  The back edge of the frame clearly curved, while the
> quarter window forward edge was straight.
>
> Just some interesting tid bits.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 07:39:23 2013
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References: <F3796D37-66A9-4E81-9C47-72D0CACCE76B@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 08:35:41 -0600
From: Cullen McCann <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

After all of the discussion about the Get Smart Tiger over the years, I
have lost track of what was said about its location. Where is that Tiger
now? Do we know what production unit it is/was?

Cullen


On Mon, Dec 2, 2013 at 11:14 PM, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

> I was just watching an episode with my son.  It was about max overhearing a
> plot to kill rocket scientists, but then lost his memory because of some
> pills.  The best part is that it featured the car for much of the episode.
>  I
> know that the history is that an Alpine was used when the machine gun
> popped
> out of the bonnet.  I'm sure it was used for lots of other scenes scenes.
> But
> in the driving scenes on this episode, it was definitely a Tiger (with dual
> exhausts).  They really tossed the car around too.
>
> But interestingly with all the scenes where they were sitting in the car or
> standing next to it, it had a S1-S2 windscreen on the car (with no glass).
> But it still had the S3-SV/Tiger quarter windows.  I had no idea they
> could be
> swapped that way.  The back edge of the frame clearly curved, while the
> quarter window forward edge was straight.
>
> Just some interesting tid bits.
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cmccann1972@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 08:32:20 2013
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 15:29:54 +0000 (UTC)
From: stubrennan@comcast.net
To: Cullen McCann <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
References: <F3796D37-66A9-4E81-9C47-72D0CACCE76B@gmail.com>
	<CAFwr-MX6tZ=Nf=YpBVYhLkwmS8QpAo8-D_EJaqmZRhA4aWkrdg@mail.gmail.com>
Thread-Topic: Maxwell Smart Tiger
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Cc: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

IIRC, one story says that Don Adams ended up with a Tiger from the show, drove it a few years, but one of his kids totaled it. 

Stu 

After all of the discussion about the Get Smart Tiger over the years, I
have lost track of what was said about its location. Where is that Tiger
now? Do we know what production unit it is/was?

Cullen
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User-Agent: Microsoft-MacOutlook/14.3.9.131030
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2013 11:12:04 -0500
From: Don Antilla <fast427@sbcglobal.net>
To: Cullen McCann <cmccann1972@gmail.com>, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger
References: <F3796D37-66A9-4E81-9C47-72D0CACCE76B@gmail.com>
	<CAFwr-MX6tZ=Nf=YpBVYhLkwmS8QpAo8-D_EJaqmZRhA4aWkrdg@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Tiger enthusiasts: I participated in a BMW-sponsored 1400 mile motorcycle
Charity Run in California in 2009. The trip started out in Long Beach,
went up to Yosemite, Death Valley, Morro Bay etc.,  and finally wound its
way back to the LA area.
The event culminated in a big parade and a gathering near Grauman's
Theater and included many Hollywood movie cars;  this Tiger was one of the
cars.
I have a few more photos if you want them.

Don A


On 12/3/13 9:35 AM, "Cullen McCann" <cmccann1972@gmail.com> wrote:

>After all of the discussion about the Get Smart Tiger over the years, I
>have lost track of what was said about its location. Where is that Tiger
>now? Do we know what production unit it is/was?
>
>Cullen
>
>
>On Mon, Dec 2, 2013 at 11:14 PM, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>> I was just watching an episode with my son.  It was about max
>>overhearing a
>> plot to kill rocket scientists, but then lost his memory because of some
>> pills.  The best part is that it featured the car for much of the
>>episode.
>>  I
>> know that the history is that an Alpine was used when the machine gun
>> popped
>> out of the bonnet.  I'm sure it was used for lots of other scenes
>>scenes.
>> But
>> in the driving scenes on this episode, it was definitely a Tiger (with
>>dual
>> exhausts).  They really tossed the car around too.
>>
>> But interestingly with all the scenes where they were sitting in the
>>car or
>> standing next to it, it had a S1-S2 windscreen on the car (with no
>>glass).
>> But it still had the S3-SV/Tiger quarter windows.  I had no idea they
>> could be
>> swapped that way.  The back edge of the frame clearly curved, while the
>> quarter window forward edge was straight.
>>
>> Just some interesting tid bits.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cmccann1972@gmail.com
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers@autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427@sbcglobal.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Tiger gun.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Get Smart Cockpit.jpg]
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 09:43:58 2013
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2013 08:41:27 -0800
From: "Norman C. Miller" <rootes1@earthlink.net>
To: stubrennan@comcast.net, cmccann1972@gmail.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The "Get Smart" Tiger (listef in Ian Garrad's West Coast company cars listing) has never been claimed by anyone



Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: stubrennan@comcast.net 
Date: 12/03/2013  7:29 AM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: Cullen McCann <cmccann1972@gmail.com> 
Cc: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger 
 
IIRC, one story says that Don Adams ended up with a Tiger from the show, drove it a few years, but one of his kids totaled it. 

Stu 

After all of the discussion about the Get Smart Tiger over the years, I
have lost track of what was said about its location. Where is that Tiger
now? Do we know what production unit it is/was?

Cullen
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 16:40:29 2013
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 15:37:59 -0800
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger Episode
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

For what it is worth, I just did a search on line and found that the
episode I just saw that started this is:


"Where-What-How-Who Am I?"  Season 2, Episode 23



Which is on YouTube!  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph8_IdLwETM
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References: <CAAjp1z71bwadjHbCW8WJjxdjanrruoF5U00crmfPg8CAP+mPtg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 10:40:53 +1100
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger Episode
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The car that crashes is a SII Alpine.. also what with the maybe 16"?wheel
painted red rolling away from the accident!.. maybe that was the cause not
the gunfire!


On 4 December 2013 10:37, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

> For what it is worth, I just did a search on line and found that the
> episode I just saw that started this is:
>
>
> "Where-What-How-Who Am I?"  Season 2, Episode 23
>
>
>
> Which is on YouTube!  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph8_IdLwETM
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 16:43:33 2013
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 15:41:05 -0800
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: "Tiger's Den" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger Episode
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

And I now take back that the gun is identical.  It is not.  Also, the one
in the show did not have "SUNBEAM" across the front.


On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 3:37 PM, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

> For what it is worth, I just did a search on line and found that the
> episode I just saw that started this is:
>
>
> "Where-What-How-Who Am I?"  Season 2, Episode 23
>
>
>
> Which is on YouTube!  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph8_IdLwETM
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 16:53:38 2013
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 15:51:11 -0800
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger Episode
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Also the car in use in the driving scenes does not have GT door caps.

But I change my view on the shifter.  Now that I see it on my computer, it
is clearly a SV full synchro shifter.  Interestingly in the show at 22:23,
they show the dash and the radio area has two round gauges.  But at 22:31,
they show it again and it seems to have a radar screen type thing.

I did not see a wheel roll by or a SII though.


On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 3:40 PM, michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>wrote:

> The car that crashes is a SII Alpine.. also what with the maybe 16"?wheel
> painted red rolling away from the accident!.. maybe that was the cause not
> the gunfire!
>
>
> On 4 December 2013 10:37, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> For what it is worth, I just did a search on line and found that the
>> episode I just saw that started this is:
>>
>>
>> "Where-What-How-Who Am I?"  Season 2, Episode 23
>>
>>
>>
>> Which is on YouTube!  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph8_IdLwETM
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 16:57:45 2013
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	<CAAjp1z5VCJXhuxm6OZk6MFRoZTRzZL9WPwBCRaZ94jmfAcUFPw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 10:55:17 +1100
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger Episode
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The "tiger" is actually a SV Alpine ST, no nose lettering, plastic wheel
and vinyl soft top coverings


On 4 December 2013 10:51, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:

> Also the car in use in the driving scenes does not have GT door caps.
>
> But I change my view on the shifter.  Now that I see it on my computer, it
> is clearly a SV full synchro shifter.  Interestingly in the show at 22:23,
> they show the dash and the radio area has two round gauges.  But at 22:31,
> they show it again and it seems to have a radar screen type thing.
>
> I did not see a wheel roll by or a SII though.
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 3:40 PM, michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> The car that crashes is a SII Alpine.. also what with the maybe 16"?wheel
>> painted red rolling away from the accident!.. maybe that was the cause not
>> the gunfire!
>>
>>
>> On 4 December 2013 10:37, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> For what it is worth, I just did a search on line and found that the
>>> episode I just saw that started this is:
>>>
>>>
>>> "Where-What-How-Who Am I?"  Season 2, Episode 23
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Which is on YouTube!  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph8_IdLwETM
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Regards
>>
>> Michael King
>>
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 16:00:14 -0800
From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
To: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Maxwell Smart Tiger Episode
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Found the crash scene at 3:36.  I went too fast.  Yep agree on all counts.
Pointy fins, wrong large wheel.  And, I question if the hood is even a
Sunbeam hood.  It looks too wide and flat, even in its crunched condition.


On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 3:55 PM, michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>wrote:

> The "tiger" is actually a SV Alpine ST, no nose lettering, plastic wheel
> and vinyl soft top coverings
>
>
> On 4 December 2013 10:51, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Also the car in use in the driving scenes does not have GT door caps.
>>
>> But I change my view on the shifter.  Now that I see it on my computer,
>> it is clearly a SV full synchro shifter.  Interestingly in the show at
>> 22:23, they show the dash and the radio area has two round gauges.  But at
>> 22:31, they show it again and it seems to have a radar screen type thing.
>>
>> I did not see a wheel roll by or a SII though.
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 3:40 PM, michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> The car that crashes is a SII Alpine.. also what with the maybe
>>> 16"?wheel painted red rolling away from the accident!.. maybe that was the
>>> cause not the gunfire!
>>>
>>>
>>> On 4 December 2013 10:37, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> For what it is worth, I just did a search on line and found that the
>>>> episode I just saw that started this is:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Where-What-How-Who Am I?"  Season 2, Episode 23
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Which is on YouTube!  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph8_IdLwETM
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Regards
>>>
>>> Michael King
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 20:34:11 2013
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From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 19:50:23 -0600
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Tigers] Bell housing question
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Guys:

 

I'm contemplating putting a 260 back in my Tiger rather than the 289 that's
in the car right now.  Here's the rub, though.  The 260 I have is clearly a
5-bolt block, which I'm guessing all 260s were, but the 289 in the car is a
6-bolt block.  Obviously, I'm going to have to change the bell housing over
to a 5-bolt unit.  Now, if I do that, will my transmission bolt up to it or
not?  Can I use my 289 flywheel on the 260?  Also, are clutch sizes
different between the two engines?  By the way, the 260 came out of an
automatic '64 Fairlane, if it makes any difference.

 

I'm all ears, guys.I've never had to mess with something like this before.

 

Thanks,

Andy Walker

Edmond, OK

B382001600LRXFE

TAC #740
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 08:40:26 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Andy Walker'" <awtiger@cox.net>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 10:08:54 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7y7Zi9QjPcqwoBQCGXnO7yqoL8sAAbEXcg
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bell housing question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Andy
	According to the Parts List both the 260 and 289 engine uses the
same starter ring gear part number but it lists a different part numbers for
the flywheel

	This seems to indicate that you can use the flywheel and clutch
parts but as with any engine change you need to go through the parts you
have to make sure they are compatible with each other.

You will need a 5 bolt bellhousing cover plate and pilot bearing.

I would think the transmission should bolt right up but again that depends
on the parts you have.

I would recommend going through the casting numbers on the 64 engine just so
you know what you have.

My guess is that the 260 block is a C4OE -6015E casting.
Yes, all 260 blocks are 5 bolt.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andy Walker
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 8:50 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Bell housing question


Guys:



I'm contemplating putting a 260 back in my Tiger rather than the 289 that's
in the car right now.  Here's the rub, though.  The 260 I have is clearly a
5-bolt block, which I'm guessing all 260s were, but the 289 in the car is a
6-bolt block.  Obviously, I'm going to have to change the bell housing over
to a 5-bolt unit.  Now, if I do that, will my transmission bolt up to it or
not?  Can I use my 289 flywheel on the 260?  Also, are clutch sizes
different between the two engines?  By the way, the 260 came out of an
automatic '64 Fairlane, if it makes any difference.



I'm all ears, guys.I've never had to mess with something like this before.



Thanks,

Andy Walker

Edmond, OK

B382001600LRXFE

TAC #740
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 10:10:34 2013
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2013 08:23:45 -0800
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: LSR <land-speed@autox.team.net>,  "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] While I am between parts and weather...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been dangerously thinking again.  run for the hills, now, before 
it is too late!

Well, ok, I am building a dyno set up for my own personal fun and use on 
motors I put together.  I have been looking at  electronic throttle 
controllers but admittedly, I am pretty ignorant on the technology.  I 
now use a long Morse cable to twiddle the throttle but I'd like 
something that might be more amenable to using software for control.  
So, the question.  I am guessing that most are fairly simple in concept, 
that a pedal moves a pot of some sort which has a module which controls 
voltage level into a servo motor control output which rotates the 
throttle shaft.  At least, that's how I would tackle it. I think that 
because I would want to use this on more than one kind of throttle set 
up that the servo portion should be, at least, removable and be capable 
of having some sort of lever attached with a link to a regular throttle 
shaft.  That would permit use on multiple kinds of throttles with only 
some kind of attaching bracketry.   So the basic question is: what's out 
there for selection at the pick a part places? What should I be looking 
for for something to play with?  Any partiucular brand that works better 
than others?  I think that I would need to get the gas pedal assy with 
any electronic pieces,  harness and cabling, and a servo motor/throttle 
body set up all from the same donor.  I am guessing that the simplest of 
systems would be best, something without control inputs being required 
from the car/truck main brain box in order to function.

While I have no plans for utilization of a system like this on the 
Sunbeam LSR car, it seems that these would be almost made to order for 
the special construction class cars and maybe even some of the door cars 
as well.  Would there be issues with using something to return the 
throttle to closed blade position if something breaks or goes south or 
does a servo used in an application like this do that automatically?

Listening for thoughts and ideas for my dyno application... like I said 
would be nice it it was a simple pot type control voltage  to a module 
that converts to a drive output for the servo. I have software that can 
generate an automatic input for a dyno ramp up and down  pretty easily...

hanging around  in the cold, in the wind, without the next parts for the 
Tiger refurb, waiting on football...

larry

-- 
______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 10:47:11 2013
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References: <52A34B91.9010907@mayfco.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 12:22:18 -0500
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michael@michaelshortt.com>
To: "<drmayf@mayfco.com>" <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Cc: land-speed@autox.team.net, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] While I am between parts and weather...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have no idea to be honest,  my first inclination would have been to use a
throttle controller from a boat with a control panel desk mount versus a
foot pedal.
Having said that, most new cars are throttle by wire, perhaps you could
repurpose one from a salvage yard, if not in whole then in pieces.
Thirdly, you might explore those used in R/C cars, planes, essentially a
radio controller servo that pushes a plunger attached to the throttle,
shouldn't take much to ramp that up and possibly have the advantage of
wireless control via a standard commercially available R/C controller.

Michael Shortt
On Dec 7, 2013 12:12 PM, "Larry Mayfield" <drmayf@mayfco.com> wrote:

> I have been dangerously thinking again.  run for the hills, now, before it
> is too late!
>
> Well, ok, I am building a dyno set up for my own personal fun and use on
> motors I put together.  I have been looking at  electronic throttle
> controllers but admittedly, I am pretty ignorant on the technology.  I now
> use a long Morse cable to twiddle the throttle but I'd like something that
> might be more amenable to using software for control.  So, the question.  I
> am guessing that most are fairly simple in concept, that a pedal moves a
> pot of some sort which has a module which controls voltage level into a
> servo motor control output which rotates the throttle shaft.  At least,
> that's how I would tackle it. I think that because I would want to use this
> on more than one kind of throttle set up that the servo portion should be,
> at least, removable and be capable of having some sort of lever attached
> with a link to a regular throttle shaft.  That would permit use on multiple
> kinds of throttles with only some kind of attaching bracketry.   So the
> basic question is: what's out there for selection at the pick a part
> places? What should I be looking for for something to play with?  Any
> partiucular brand that works better than others?  I think that I would need
> to get the gas pedal assy with any electronic pieces,  harness and cabling,
> and a servo motor/throttle body set up all from the same donor.  I am
> guessing that the simplest of systems would be best, something without
> control inputs being required from the car/truck main brain box in order to
> function.
>
> While I have no plans for utilization of a system like this on the Sunbeam
> LSR car, it seems that these would be almost made to order for the special
> construction class cars and maybe even some of the door cars as well.
>  Would there be issues with using something to return the throttle to
> closed blade position if something breaks or goes south or does a servo
> used in an application like this do that automatically?
>
> Listening for thoughts and ideas for my dyno application... like I said
> would be nice it it was a simple pot type control voltage  to a module that
> converts to a drive output for the servo. I have software that can generate
> an automatic input for a dyno ramp up and down  pretty easily...
>
> hanging around  in the cold, in the wind, without the next parts for the
> Tiger refurb, waiting on football...
>
> larry
>
> --
> ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@
> michaelshortt.com
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	<459E3CA8CA174A70A0A2DB1D65E19BD5@ronpc1>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 12:23:16 -0500
From: Jeffery Randall <jefferyrandall@gmail.com>
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bell housing question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

You'll need to check the crankshaft to see that it's drilled for use with a
pilot bushing . Aside from that everything should bolt right together.
  Jeff


On Sat, Dec 7, 2013 at 10:08 AM, Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Andy
>         According to the Parts List both the 260 and 289 engine uses the
> same starter ring gear part number but it lists a different part numbers
> for
> the flywheel
>
>         This seems to indicate that you can use the flywheel and clutch
> parts but as with any engine change you need to go through the parts you
> have to make sure they are compatible with each other.
>
> You will need a 5 bolt bellhousing cover plate and pilot bearing.
>
> I would think the transmission should bolt right up but again that depends
> on the parts you have.
>
> I would recommend going through the casting numbers on the 64 engine just
> so
> you know what you have.
>
> My guess is that the 260 block is a C4OE -6015E casting.
> Yes, all 260 blocks are 5 bolt.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Andy Walker
> Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 8:50 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Bell housing question
>
>
> Guys:
>
>
>
> I'm contemplating putting a 260 back in my Tiger rather than the 289 that's
> in the car right now.  Here's the rub, though.  The 260 I have is clearly a
> 5-bolt block, which I'm guessing all 260s were, but the 289 in the car is a
> 6-bolt block.  Obviously, I'm going to have to change the bell housing over
> to a 5-bolt unit.  Now, if I do that, will my transmission bolt up to it or
> not?  Can I use my 289 flywheel on the 260?  Also, are clutch sizes
> different between the two engines?  By the way, the 260 came out of an
> automatic '64 Fairlane, if it makes any difference.
>
>
>
> I'm all ears, guys.I've never had to mess with something like this before.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Andy Walker
>
> Edmond, OK
>
> B382001600LRXFE
>
> TAC #740
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6896 - Release Date: 12/06/13
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 11:30:12 2013
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 17:32:37 +0000 (UTC)
From: genepadgett@comcast.net
To: Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net>
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bell housing question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

One of the issues is the trans that you have. Is it a narrow eared box like the original trans, or is it a wide eared box that has two sets of mounting hole patterns? If it does not have the narrow box hole pattern, it will not bolt up to the original 260 bell housing. At least without modification (appropriate mounting holes drilled). 


Also, the later trans bell housings for a 6 bolt block have a slightly larger hole for the trans input shaft bearing retainer to go with the trans that were used. So if you use an original 5 bolt bell housing, you probably will have to change the bearing retainer housing on the trans, or machine out the hole in the bell housing. 


Most people have gone the other way, converting from a 260 to a 289. There were some excellent articles on all that was involved in the CAT Tiger Tales newsletters in the not too distant past. All the info would apply to going the other way, of course. I recommend geting ahold of those issues if you can. 


Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net> 
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, December 6, 2013 7:50:23 PM 
Subject: [Tigers] Bell housing question 

Guys: 



I'm contemplating putting a 260 back in my Tiger rather than the 289 that's 
in the car right now. Here's the rub, though. The 260 I have is clearly a 
5-bolt block, which I'm guessing all 260s were, but the 289 in the car is a 
6-bolt block. Obviously, I'm going to have to change the bell housing over 
to a 5-bolt unit. Now, if I do that, will my transmission bolt up to it or 
not? Can I use my 289 flywheel on the 260? Also, are clutch sizes 
different between the two engines? By the way, the 260 came out of an 
automatic '64 Fairlane, if it makes any difference. 



I'm all ears, guys.I've never had to mess with something like this before. 



Thanks, 

Andy Walker 

Edmond, OK 

B382001600LRXFE 

TAC #740 
_______________________________________________ 

tigers@autox.team.net 

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 11:41:52 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Jeffery Randall'" <jefferyrandall@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 12:42:50 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7zcQTvEq41hMvYTmqjy/9VsE2nywAAYQwg
	engine=2.50.10432:5.11.72,1.0.14,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-12-07_02:2013-12-06,2013-12-07,1970-01-01
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bell housing question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff
    I believe all crankshafts are machined for a pilot bearing; this makes
it very easy for the production line to assemble to either configuration.

You are also correct that it should be checked just in case a previous owner
messed things up or swapped in non stock, unknown parts.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffery Randall [mailto:jefferyrandall@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 12:23 PM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com
Cc: Andy Walker; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bell housing question


You'll need to check the crankshaft to see that it's drilled for use with a
pilot bushing . Aside from that everything should bolt right together.
  Jeff


On Sat, Dec 7, 2013 at 10:08 AM, Ron Fraser <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:


Andy
        According to the Parts List both the 260 and 289 engine uses the
same starter ring gear part number but it lists a different part numbers for
the flywheel

        This seems to indicate that you can use the flywheel and clutch
parts but as with any engine change you need to go through the parts you
have to make sure they are compatible with each other.

You will need a 5 bolt bellhousing cover plate and pilot bearing.

I would think the transmission should bolt right up but again that depends
on the parts you have.

I would recommend going through the casting numbers on the 64 engine just so
you know what you have.

My guess is that the 260 block is a C4OE -6015E casting.
Yes, all 260 blocks are 5 bolt.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andy Walker
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 8:50 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Bell housing question


Guys:



I'm contemplating putting a 260 back in my Tiger rather than the 289 that's
in the car right now.  Here's the rub, though.  The 260 I have is clearly a
5-bolt block, which I'm guessing all 260s were, but the 289 in the car is a
6-bolt block.  Obviously, I'm going to have to change the bell housing over
to a 5-bolt unit.  Now, if I do that, will my transmission bolt up to it or
not?  Can I use my 289 flywheel on the 260?  Also, are clutch sizes
different between the two engines?  By the way, the 260 came out of an
automatic '64 Fairlane, if it makes any difference.



I'm all ears, guys.I've never had to mess with something like this before.



Thanks,

Andy Walker

Edmond, OK

B382001600LRXFE

TAC #740
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 12:42:44 2013
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2013 14:06:17 -0500
From: Tod Brown <todbrown@roadrunner.com>
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To: tigers@autox.team.net, "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Andy:

Not that it probably matters in your situation but there are 
bell-housings around that will bolt up to both the 5-bolt and 6-bolt 
blocks (they have two sets of mounting holes). They show up occasionally 
on eBay. Many years ago, my original bell housing fractured where the 
clutch arm enters, so I replaced my bell housing with one with the dual 
pattern, anticipating that I might, somewhere down the road, want to use 
a later block. That never happened, but it's still in there.

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
TAC 864
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From: "Bates,Robert E Jr" <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Tiger passenger footrest
Thread-Index: Ac7zfzZX8QQa7r9nRVOu9pxRSacY7A==
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 19:06:37 +0000
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Subject: [Tigers] Tiger passenger footrest
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Hi Guys:  I'm finishing the restoration on my '66 Tiger and I need to find a
passenger footrest.  Anyone have an extra for sale?  Or know of a source?



My car did not have a footrest when I got it, so I don't even have a pattern.
So even a photo would help.



Any help appreciated.  Thanks.



Bob Bates
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Subject: [Tigers] ScotchBrite
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,
 
What color ScotchBrite will NOT scratch glass, guys ?
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
TAC  0763
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 14:59:06 2013
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From: "jim" <jim@island.net>
To: "'Tod Brown'" <todbrown@roadrunner.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>,
	"'Andy Walker'" <awtiger@cox.net>
References: <52A371A9.4040107@roadrunner.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 12:07:25 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7zg/P8TCMICxPYTqypM9XafpaOjQAA4+Lw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I thought the dual pattern bell housings referred to the trans end where
there are both wide and narrow bolt patterns for the early/late toploader...


A friend of mine has one...and it will only fit a 6 bolt block


Jim
B382000446

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tod Brown
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 11:06 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net; Andy Walker
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap

Andy:

Not that it probably matters in your situation but there are bell-housings
around that will bolt up to both the 5-bolt and 6-bolt blocks (they have two
sets of mounting holes). They show up occasionally on eBay. Many years ago,
my original bell housing fractured where the clutch arm enters, so I
replaced my bell housing with one with the dual pattern, anticipating that I
might, somewhere down the road, want to use a later block. That never
happened, but it's still in there.

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
TAC 864
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6895 - Release Date: 12/05/13
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 15:09:00 2013
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References: <E2B8BB0B3C751543B0F5A21086ACDF7B42F132AE@AHC-MB04.ad.ufl.edu>
From: Cullen1972 <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 14:15:48 -0600
To: "Bates,Robert E Jr" <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger passenger footrest
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Is that the same part as a "False floor"? Also are they the same on the
Alpines? If so,  I have an extra I think.

Cullen
LROFE
TAC 840

Sent from my iPhone.

> On Dec 7, 2013, at 1:06 PM, "Bates,Robert E Jr" <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
wrote:
>
> Hi Guys:  I'm finishing the restoration on my '66 Tiger and I need to find
a
> passenger footrest.  Anyone have an extra for sale?  Or know of a source?
>
>
>
> My car did not have a footrest when I got it, so I don't even have a
pattern.
> So even a photo would help.
>
>
>
> Any help appreciated.  Thanks.
>
>
>
> Bob Bates
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 16:04:56 2013
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References: <7514c.6f5700cd.3fd4cf8a@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 15:45:05 -0500
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michael@michaelshortt.com>
To: Rollright@aol.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] ScotchBrite
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Try the kind designed to clean ceramic / glass cooktops. Sold in grocery
stores.

Michael Shortt
On Dec 7, 2013 3:34 PM, <Rollright@aol.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> What color ScotchBrite will NOT scratch glass, guys ?
>
>
> Jim  Armstrong
> Mk 1A
> 382002083
> LRXFE
> TAC  0763
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 16:10:14 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 16:12:44 -0500 (EST)
To: genepadgett@comcast.net, awtiger@cox.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1386450764;
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Bell housing question
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, another consideration, for sure.
 
To Andy, why do you want to go to a replacement 260? 
 
 
In a message dated 12/7/2013 10:29:06 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
genepadgett@comcast.net writes:

One of  the issues is the trans that you have. Is it a narrow eared box 
like the  original trans, or is it a wide eared box that has two sets of 
mounting hole  patterns? If it does not have the narrow box hole pattern, it will 
not bolt up  to the original 260 bell housing. At least without modification 
(appropriate  mounting holes drilled). 


Also, the later trans bell housings for a  6 bolt block have a slightly 
larger hole for the trans input shaft bearing  retainer to go with the trans 
that were used. So if you use an original 5 bolt  bell housing, you probably 
will have to change the bearing retainer housing on  the trans, or machine 
out the hole in the bell housing. 


Most  people have gone the other way, converting from a 260 to a 289. There 
were  some excellent articles on all that was involved in the CAT Tiger 
Tales  newsletters in the not too distant past. All the info would apply to 
going the  other way, of course. I recommend geting ahold of those issues if 
you can.  


Gene 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Walker"  <awtiger@cox.net> 
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday,  December 6, 2013 7:50:23 PM 
Subject: [Tigers] Bell housing question  

Guys: 



I'm contemplating putting a 260 back in my Tiger  rather than the 289 
that's 
in the car right now. Here's the rub, though.  The 260 I have is clearly a 
5-bolt block, which I'm guessing all 260s  were, but the 289 in the car is 
a 
6-bolt block. Obviously, I'm going to  have to change the bell housing over 
to a 5-bolt unit. Now, if I do that,  will my transmission bolt up to it or 
not? Can I use my 289 flywheel on  the 260? Also, are clutch sizes 
different between the two engines? By the  way, the 260 came out of an 
automatic '64 Fairlane, if it makes any  difference. 



I'm all ears, guys.I've never had to mess with  something like this before. 



Thanks, 

Andy Walker  

Edmond, OK 

B382001600LRXFE 

TAC #740  
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 17:02:46 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <52A371A9.4040107@roadrunner.com>
	<00ca01cef387$f322ed10$d968c730$@net>
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2013 14:05:12 -0800
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

There is this scattershield on Ebay. It is obviously a narrow/wide trans 
pattern. On the engine side it has a boatload of bolt holes.  Maybe someone 
can identify if it is both 5/6 bolt pattern. Which brings me to ask, where 
is the "extra" bolt hole anyway?  - Tom

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-LAKEWOOD-289-302-351-BLOW-PROOF-BELL-HOUSING-3-4-SPEED-MANUAL-TRANS-/390714498729?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af8661ea9&vxp=mtr


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jim" <jim@island.net>
To: "'Tod Brown'" <todbrown@roadrunner.com>; <tigers@autox.team.net>; "'Andy 
Walker'" <awtiger@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap


>I thought the dual pattern bell housings referred to the trans end where
> there are both wide and narrow bolt patterns for the early/late 
> toploader...
>
>
> A friend of mine has one...and it will only fit a 6 bolt block
>
>
> Jim
> B382000446
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 15:11:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Terry Packer <packertl3@yahoo.com>
To: "Rollright@aol.com" <Rollright@aol.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] ScotchBrite
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim

Here's a re-post of a message from 2012. I'm not aware of anyone
responding with additional Scotch pad colors. 


"The pads of different
colors are of different hardness. Green will most definitely scratch 
glass.
Generally, white will not scratch glass and can be safely used on shower
walls, etc. There are also at least a maroon and a grey 
generally found at
auto supply stores which are suitable for working out scratches in stainless
steel which has a visible "grain".

I have used white successfully on a glass
shower wall and the gray and maroon worked wonders to restore a stainless
kitchen exhaust hood someone had previously marred by applying an abrasive
cleaner in a circular motion. However, gray and maroon will scratch or cloud
stainless with only a plain smooth finish.


Terry Packer
9470018
________________________________
 From: "Rollright@aol.com"
<Rollright@aol.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, December 7,
2013 11:22 AM
Subject: [Tigers] ScotchBrite
 

Hello,

What color ScotchBrite
will NOT scratch glass, guys ?


Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
TAC 
0763
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 18:07:51 2013
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From: "jim" <jim@island.net>
To: "'Thomas Witt'" <atwittsend@verizon.net>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <52A371A9.4040107@roadrunner.com>
	<00ca01cef387$f322ed10$d968c730$@net>
	<E4BEC8A74B7F4620B969EA2F844B750A@optiplex3301>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 16:09:49 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7zqUJwvxXVjtDGRrS3lr+LaW/9NAAAFbLA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

It's more than just an 'extra' hole...

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/classic-tech/84248d1259105
111-289-5-bolt-bell-housing-block.jpg


Jim



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Witt
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 2:05 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap

There is this scattershield on Ebay. It is obviously a narrow/wide trans
pattern. On the engine side it has a boatload of bolt holes.  Maybe someone
can identify if it is both 5/6 bolt pattern. Which brings me to ask, where
is the "extra" bolt hole anyway?  - Tom

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-LAKEWOOD-289-302-351-BLOW-PROOF-BELL-HOUSING-3-
4-SPEED-MANUAL-TRANS-/390714498729?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&ha
sh=item5af8661ea9&vxp=mtr


----- Original Message -----
From: "jim" <jim@island.net>
To: "'Tod Brown'" <todbrown@roadrunner.com>; <tigers@autox.team.net>; "'Andy
Walker'" <awtiger@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap


>I thought the dual pattern bell housings referred to the trans end 
>where  there are both wide and narrow bolt patterns for the early/late  
>toploader...
>
>
> A friend of mine has one...and it will only fit a 6 bolt block
>
>
> Jim
> B382000446
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 19:11:55 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Cullen1972'" <cmccann1972@gmail.com>, "'Bates,Robert E Jr'"
	<RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 20:12:11 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7zmIrTQMxDioGlQp2dubBJXrX4NAAF/9kg
	engine=2.50.10432:5.11.72,1.0.14,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-12-07_03:2013-12-06,2013-12-07,1970-01-01
	signatures=0
	spamscore=0 suspectscore=2 phishscore=0 adultscore=0 bulkscore=0
	classifier=spam adjust=0 reason=mlx scancount=1
	engine=7.0.1-1305240000 definitions=main-1312070238
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger passenger footrest
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Robert and Cullen

	I don't believe the Alpine footrest is the same as the Tiger but it
might be possible to make an Alpine part into the Tiger footrest.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Cullen1972
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 3:16 PM
To: Bates,Robert E Jr
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger passenger footrest


Is that the same part as a "False floor"? Also are they the same on the
Alpines? If so,  I have an extra I think.

Cullen
LROFE
TAC 840

Sent from my iPhone.

> On Dec 7, 2013, at 1:06 PM, "Bates,Robert E Jr" 
> <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
wrote:
>
> Hi Guys:  I'm finishing the restoration on my '66 Tiger and I need to 
> find
a
> passenger footrest.  Anyone have an extra for sale?  Or know of a 
> source?
>
>
>
> My car did not have a footrest when I got it, so I don't even have a
pattern.
> So even a photo would help.
>
>
>
> Any help appreciated.  Thanks.
>
>
>
> Bob Bates
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6896 - Release Date: 12/06/13
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 20:21:24 2013
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From: "jim" <jim@island.net>
To: "'Thomas Witt'" <atwittsend@verizon.net>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <52A371A9.4040107@roadrunner.com>
	<00ca01cef387$f322ed10$d968c730$@net>
	<E4BEC8A74B7F4620B969EA2F844B750A@optiplex3301>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 17:18:35 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7zqUJwvxXVjtDGRrS3lr+LaW/9NAAB6WfA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I forgot to mention... 

The Lakewood bell housing in the e-Bay ad is the same one that is in my
car... It will only fit a 6 bolt block. The rear is drilled for both narrow
and wide pattern trans but the center hole takes the slightly larger
diameter bearing retainer that comes on the wide ratio ( later ). That
retainer is available and is a bolt on to the earlier trans...
A couple of issues with the Lakewood... If you ever  install one, I highly
recommend that you dial the trans hole for center and either get the offset
dowels or the weld-on bushing kit to correct it as it will most likely be
off center to the crank !!
The other issue in a Tiger is that the Lakewood is not the same shape as the
stock one which is more or less like a half sphere. The rear top corners of
the Lakewood will contact the Tiger tunnel ! I fixed this the first time
back in '75 by 'stretching' the tunnel some with a hammer  :(  The Tiger I
have now also has a the same Lakewood and it was modified back in '82 by Rik
Edwards at the Mustang ranch ( no... not THAT one ) . He cut those two
corners off the bell and then welded a flat plate on each side to make the
clearance !


Jim




-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Witt
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 2:05 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap

There is this scattershield on Ebay. It is obviously a narrow/wide trans
pattern. On the engine side it has a boatload of bolt holes.  Maybe someone
can identify if it is both 5/6 bolt pattern. Which brings me to ask, where
is the "extra" bolt hole anyway?  - Tom

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-LAKEWOOD-289-302-351-BLOW-PROOF-BELL-HOUSING-3-
4-SPEED-MANUAL-TRANS-/390714498729?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&ha
sh=item5af8661ea9&vxp=mtr


----- Original Message -----
From: "jim" <jim@island.net>
To: "'Tod Brown'" <todbrown@roadrunner.com>; <tigers@autox.team.net>; "'Andy
Walker'" <awtiger@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap


>I thought the dual pattern bell housings referred to the trans end 
>where  there are both wide and narrow bolt patterns for the early/late  
>toploader...
>
>
> A friend of mine has one...and it will only fit a 6 bolt block
>
>
> Jim
> B382000446
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 22:18:03 2013
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From: "Peter Sziklai" <peter@tcltd.pro>
To: <michael@michaelshortt.com>, <Rollright@aol.com>
References: <7514c.6f5700cd.3fd4cf8a@aol.com>
	<CAEWtxWrM0YA3D7qjbLwKUPAmTLN8dfJpj-jmCqcxxmQpvm7qOQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 20:09:16 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7zoGJPCXa8zIT+QQyPpaEt9djtlAAKiIag
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] ScotchBrite
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

We do cars for a living (collision repair) and we use scotch brite only for
things we want to scratch, like primer and paint surfaces we will be
refinishing
On glass and chrome, which we want to clean without scratching we use fine
steel wool. I expect that on show chrome you would not want to use steel
wool, but for our purposes it has never caused a problem. Scotch brite is
intended to scuff the surface and we don't use it on glass.

\\---Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of michael@michaelshortt.com
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 12:45 PM
To: Rollright@aol.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] ScotchBrite

Try the kind designed to clean ceramic / glass cooktops. Sold in grocery
stores.

Michael Shortt
On Dec 7, 2013 3:34 PM, <Rollright@aol.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> What color ScotchBrite will NOT scratch glass, guys ?
>
>
> Jim  Armstrong
> Mk 1A
> 382002083
> LRXFE
> TAC  0763
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 23:58:51 -0500
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list may
have the expertise to help with.  I have an alternator that the internal
regulator has failed on.  Replacing the whole alternator is not such an
easy choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no reason to believe the
regulator would not fail again.

The regulator used inside has 4 wires.  One to the live wire, one to the
charge light and two to the diode bridge.  I happen to have a four wire
Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a replacement but I don't
really know how it should be wired up.  The link below shows a pic of the
Lucas regulator and more of the old regulator and the wiring in the
alternator.

Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I could
use the replacement?

Many thanks indeed.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
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	2013 05:19:48 -0800 (PST)
From: "Dave Munroe" <dave@munroe.ca>
To: <rfraser@bluefrog.com>, "'Bates,Robert E Jr'"
  <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
References: <A0326D42F90E4503BC26F48117D36738@ronpc1>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:19:42 -0400
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger passenger footrest
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Robert:

The Alpine trans tunnel is narrower than the Tiger tunnel, so the Alpine 
false floor is wider to fill the space.

There is a shop in New England that claims the original Tiger FF was made by 
cutting down the Alpine FF. From looking at mine, I believe that could be 
true. They make Tiger false floors the same way and frequently sell them on 
eBay. They also re-build brake vacuum units, a-arms, body panels, etc.

I have no interest other than as a satisfied customer.

Here is one of their eBay listings:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunbeam-Alpine-Tiger-others-License-Plate-Bracket-/281155909288?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417632b6a8&vxp=mtr

Contact Randy Willett at this shop. He also makes the small brackets that 
hold the FF to the floor.

Here is a FF for sale from another seller on eBay. I am not familiar with 
this seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNBEAM-TIGER-PASSENGER-SIDE-FALSE-FLOOR-PANEL/131057972986?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D3252511213259577981%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D131057972986%26

Good luck with your resto!

Dave




From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
"'Bates,Robert E Jr'" <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>

Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger passenger footrest


Robert and Cullen:

 I don't believe the Alpine footrest is the same as the Tiger but it
 might be possible to make an Alpine part into the Tiger footrest.

 Ron Fraser

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Sent from my iPhone.

 On Dec 7, 2013, at 1:06 PM, "Bates,Robert E Jr"
RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
 wrote:

 Guys:  I'm finishing the restoration on my '66 Tiger and I need to
 find a passenger footrest.  Anyone have an extra for sale?  Or know of a
 source?

 My car did not have a footrest when I got it, so I don't even have a
pattern. So even a photo would help.

Any help appreciated.  Thanks.



 Bob Bates
_______________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of False Floor4.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of FF Firewall sideEM.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of False Floor BRKTS2.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of FF small brackets installedem.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Flor finished passsideem.jpg]
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 07:36:03 2013
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From: "Bates,Robert E Jr" <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
To: Dave Munroe <dave@munroe.ca>
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Tiger passenger footrest
Thread-Index: Ac7zfzZX8QQa7r9nRVOu9pxRSacY7AAM9CAAAApZ4IAAGWiBAP//tbDG
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 13:56:39 +0000
References: <A0326D42F90E4503BC26F48117D36738@ronpc1>,
	<47BCC907AD984AB3B25341A0CDE5CE1D@DavePC>
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Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger passenger footrest
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave:  Thanks for the great pictures.  They will be very helpful as I install
carpet and finish the car.

I'll contact Randy.

Bob

________________________________________
From: Dave Munroe [dave@munroe.ca]
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 8:19 AM
To: rfraser@bluefrog.com; Bates,Robert E Jr
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger passenger footrest

Robert:

The Alpine trans tunnel is narrower than the Tiger tunnel, so the Alpine
false floor is wider to fill the space.

There is a shop in New England that claims the original Tiger FF was made by
cutting down the Alpine FF. From looking at mine, I believe that could be
true. They make Tiger false floors the same way and frequently sell them on
eBay. They also re-build brake vacuum units, a-arms, body panels, etc.

I have no interest other than as a satisfied customer.

Here is one of their eBay listings:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunbeam-Alpine-Tiger-others-License-Plate-Bracket-/28
1155909288?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417632b6a8&vxp=mtr

Contact Randy Willett at this shop. He also makes the small brackets that
hold the FF to the floor.

Here is a FF for sale from another seller on eBay. I am not familiar with
this seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNBEAM-TIGER-PASSENGER-SIDE-FALSE-FLOOR-PANEL/131057
972986?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26a
o%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D3252511213259577981%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26r
k%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D131057972986%26

Good luck with your resto!

Dave




From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
"'Bates,Robert E Jr'" <RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>

Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger passenger footrest


Robert and Cullen:

 I don't believe the Alpine footrest is the same as the Tiger but it
 might be possible to make an Alpine part into the Tiger footrest.

 Ron Fraser

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
 Sent from my iPhone.

 On Dec 7, 2013, at 1:06 PM, "Bates,Robert E Jr"
RBATES@dental.ufl.edu>
 wrote:

 Guys:  I'm finishing the restoration on my '66 Tiger and I need to
 find a passenger footrest.  Anyone have an extra for sale?  Or know of a
 source?

 My car did not have a footrest when I got it, so I don't even have a
pattern. So even a photo would help.

Any help appreciated.  Thanks.



 Bob Bates
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 09:21:25 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 10:34:07 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7z1aAa+mk+TtIyQGyA7JroTHnv3AAU7WQg
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Owain
	I would suggest you try to find someone who can rebuild that
alternator.  I have done that with several and it generally costs less than
$100.  Maybe there is a better fix for that internal regulator that comes
with a rebuild.

Sometimes you can find kits to rebuild alternators that have all the parts
you need.

	I'm not the electrical guy but I believe that regulator has to have
similar amperage capacity as the alternator output otherwise they will burn
each other out.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Owain Lloyd
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 11:59 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Regulators


While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list may have
the expertise to help with.  I have an alternator that the internal
regulator has failed on.  Replacing the whole alternator is not such an easy
choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no reason to believe the
regulator would not fail again.

The regulator used inside has 4 wires.  One to the live wire, one to the
charge light and two to the diode bridge.  I happen to have a four wire
Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a replacement but I don't
really know how it should be wired up.  The link below shows a pic of the
Lucas regulator and more of the old regulator and the wiring in the
alternator.

Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I could
use the replacement?

Many thanks indeed.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
_______________________________________________

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Unsubscribe:
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 11:59:33 2013
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From: "Jim McLaughlin" <jimmc13@socket.net>
To: <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <CANE47iT-4TvSuejQ67gd=LjT8zfX+99fZDU_3vnP9X1BvFo2rQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 10:45:04 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac7z1aMVmAEhgTk7S+SnP32FUsBigAAXvsag
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Owain,

I am not sure how electronically handy you are, however most alternators
with internal regulators can be rebuilt either entirely or partially.  Auto
Parts house should be able to advise on the availability of complete kits or
just the regulator.  Next you can decide, based upon failure rates or
vehicle miles how much of a rebuild you can or should perform.  
I have rebuilt many alternators from Ford to Toyota, it can be done.  Absent
this you can find the local person in your area that still rebuilds or
rewinds electric motors and ask him to see if he would do it.
Before any of this check on the potential life after rebuild that you should
expect.  If you intend to keep the vehicle, you will be ahead by knowing
exactly what you did to the alternator to make it good again.  Also look in
the internet for tips on rebuilding your type of alternator, you will find
others that have come before you and succeeded.
Finally, $1000 is quite pricey for an alternator.  Used parts recyclers
usually can provide a low mileage take off for about half the price,
normally with a warranty.

Jim McLaughlin
B382000175

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Owain Lloyd
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 10:59 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Regulators

While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list may
have the expertise to help with.  I have an alternator that the internal
regulator has failed on.  Replacing the whole alternator is not such an
easy choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no reason to believe the
regulator would not fail again.

The regulator used inside has 4 wires.  One to the live wire, one to the
charge light and two to the diode bridge.  I happen to have a four wire
Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a replacement but I don't
really know how it should be wired up.  The link below shows a pic of the
Lucas regulator and more of the old regulator and the wiring in the
alternator.

Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I could
use the replacement?

Many thanks indeed.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 12:02:53 2013
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From: Steve Halbrook <sjhcobra1@cs.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 11:56:18 -0500
To: "rfraser@bluefrog.com" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1386521779;
	bh=0VSKbjzKcM/bkNWHqM5SN3WGQbPwInBCR2ihzVSdq+A=;
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Owain:

I don't know where you are located but in Brandon Florida there is a shop that
rebuilds generators, alternators and water pumps .  I have done business with
them for 15 years with no issues.

Steve Halbrook

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 8, 2013, at 10:34 AM, " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:
>
> Owain
>    I would suggest you try to find someone who can rebuild that
> alternator.  I have done that with several and it generally costs less than
> $100.  Maybe there is a better fix for that internal regulator that comes
> with a rebuild.
>
> Sometimes you can find kits to rebuild alternators that have all the parts
> you need.
>
>    I'm not the electrical guy but I believe that regulator has to have
> similar amperage capacity as the alternator output otherwise they will burn
> each other out.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Owain Lloyd
> Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 11:59 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Regulators
>
>
> While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list may
have
> the expertise to help with.  I have an alternator that the internal
> regulator has failed on.  Replacing the whole alternator is not such an
easy
> choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no reason to believe the
> regulator would not fail again.
>
> The regulator used inside has 4 wires.  One to the live wire, one to the
> charge light and two to the diode bridge.  I happen to have a four wire
> Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a replacement but I don't
> really know how it should be wired up.  The link below shows a pic of the
> Lucas regulator and more of the old regulator and the wiring in the
> alternator.
>
> Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I could
> use the replacement?
>
> Many thanks indeed.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 12:33:59 -0500
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: Steve Halbrook <sjhcobra1@cs.com>
Cc: "<tigers@autox.team.net>" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys,

Thanks for your responses.   I should probably elaborate with all the
details.

The alternator is specially built by a company in England as a modern
alternator that looks like a generator.  It was bought from SC Parts in the
UK who claim they have never heard of one failing and were not much help.
 However, I think most people must just potter around at 3500rpm in an
XK120 and therefore it never fails.  I ran mine at up to 6500rpm and
'cruised' at over 4000rpm, 14 hours a day for 4 days in the C-type.   I
think that abuse is probably more than they usually experience and I've
therefore concluded that the regulator (at least in that location) isn't up
to the job i'm expecting to do.

I started by taking it to an alternator/generator/starter repair shop that
is coincidentally just down the road from my own shop.  They told me the
regulator had failed but were unable to proceed further as they didn't know
the type of regulator.  They seem to be unable to do anything 'custom'.

I will contact Don's recommendation in CT and enquire if they can help.
 Ideally, I'd like to move the regulator outside the unit where I can help
it keep cool better.

Thanks,

Owain.


On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 11:56 AM, Steve Halbrook <sjhcobra1@cs.com> wrote:

> Owain:
>
> I don't know where you are located but in Brandon Florida there is a shop
> that rebuilds generators, alternators and water pumps .  I have done
> business with them for 15 years with no issues.
>
> Steve Halbrook
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Dec 8, 2013, at 10:34 AM, " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:
> >
> > Owain
> >    I would suggest you try to find someone who can rebuild that
> > alternator.  I have done that with several and it generally costs less
> than
> > $100.  Maybe there is a better fix for that internal regulator that comes
> > with a rebuild.
> >
> > Sometimes you can find kits to rebuild alternators that have all the
> parts
> > you need.
> >
> >    I'm not the electrical guy but I believe that regulator has to have
> > similar amperage capacity as the alternator output otherwise they will
> burn
> > each other out.
> >
> > Ron Fraser
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Owain Lloyd
> > Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 11:59 PM
> > To: tigers@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Tigers] Regulators
> >
> >
> > While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list may
> have
> > the expertise to help with.  I have an alternator that the internal
> > regulator has failed on.  Replacing the whole alternator is not such an
> easy
> > choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no reason to believe the
> > regulator would not fail again.
> >
> > The regulator used inside has 4 wires.  One to the live wire, one to the
> > charge light and two to the diode bridge.  I happen to have a four wire
> > Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a replacement but I don't
> > really know how it should be wired up.  The link below shows a pic of the
> > Lucas regulator and more of the old regulator and the wiring in the
> > alternator.
> >
> > Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I
> could
> > use the replacement?
> >
> > Many thanks indeed.
> >
> > https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sjhcobra1@cs.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 12:59:29 2013
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2013 10:35:30 -0700
From: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>
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To: tigers@autox.team.net
References: <CANE47iT-4TvSuejQ67gd=LjT8zfX+99fZDU_3vnP9X1BvFo2rQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Owain,
I found your regulator here:
http://www.autoleader.cn/proshow.asp?id=903
It says
Black D-
Yellow D+
White B+
Case DF
Red B+
Replaces Lucas UCB101 UCB101X UCB107 37582

This article
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator-repair.shtml
has a decent diagram of the original Lucas alternator/regulator wiring 
as well as instructions on the last page that reference the color codes 
on the new regulator.

It appears that your custom alternator is basically built inside a 
stock-looking generator case, right?
The failed regulator you have is a Denso type like this one:
http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoin220.aspx
except that the part where the circular connection is has been cut off 
and hand-wired out. The F connection would go to one of the brush 
terminals, and you'd have to check to see how the 'stator' terminal was 
wired to your custom installation.

The regulator isn't really involved in the high current aspects of the 
alternator but even so, it can run warm, which is why the original Denso 
part had heat sink fins on it and it was mounted so those fins are in 
the external air flow. If you're rebuilding this, I would try to get it 
so that your regulator was mounted to a heat sink with external fins or 
at least to something that has a good thermal connection to the external 
case. Otherwise the regulator will likely overheat and fail early.

This page shows how the circular Denso connector should be wired to the 
car's electrical system.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/34.html

Hope this all helps... I don't have a complete wire-for-wire replacement 
guide for you but this, and the actual alternator on your bench, might 
be enough to get it going again.

Cheers,
Theo

On 12/7/2013 9:58 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
> While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list may
> have the expertise to help with.  I have an alternator that the internal
> regulator has failed on.  Replacing the whole alternator is not such an
> easy choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no reason to believe the
> regulator would not fail again.
>
> The regulator used inside has 4 wires.  One to the live wire, one to the
> charge light and two to the diode bridge.  I happen to have a four wire
> Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a replacement but I don't
> really know how it should be wired up.  The link below shows a pic of the
> Lucas regulator and more of the old regulator and the wiring in the
> alternator.
>
> Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I could
> use the replacement?
>
> Many thanks indeed.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit@shaw.ca
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 13:00:38 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>, "'Steve Halbrook'" <sjhcobra1@cs.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 12:53:42 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac70O64CJ268wb4XQR2cYLw0hdmajgAAKaGw
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Owain
    The Mid 60's style Ford Alternator now has a separate external
electronic voltage regulator that mounts on the outside of the alternator
case.  Not sure if that helps you any with your problem but it might.  Those
voltage regulators are available at NPD and others.

PowerGen is the name of the company here in the States that makes that type
of Alternator/ Generator look alike - maybe they can help.

You might also want to think about a somewhat larger alternator pulley to
slow down your alternator speed.  The 289 HiPo used a 4.3" diameter
alternator pulley.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: Owain Lloyd [mailto:owain.lloyd@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 12:34 PM
To: Steve Halbrook
Cc: rfraser@bluefrog.com; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators


Hi Guys,

Thanks for your responses.   I should probably elaborate with all the
details.

The alternator is specially built by a company in England as a modern
alternator that looks like a generator.  It was bought from SC Parts in the
UK who claim they have never heard of one failing and were not much help.
However, I think most people must just potter around at 3500rpm in an XK120
and therefore it never fails.  I ran mine at up to 6500rpm and 'cruised' at
over 4000rpm, 14 hours a day for 4 days in the C-type.   I think that abuse
is probably more than they usually experience and I've therefore concluded
that the regulator (at least in that location) isn't up to the job i'm
expecting to do.

I started by taking it to an alternator/generator/starter repair shop that
is coincidentally just down the road from my own shop.  They told me the
regulator had failed but were unable to proceed further as they didn't know
the type of regulator.  They seem to be unable to do anything 'custom'.

I will contact Don's recommendation in CT and enquire if they can help.
Ideally, I'd like to move the regulator outside the unit where I can help it
keep cool better.

Thanks,

Owain.


On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 11:56 AM, Steve Halbrook <sjhcobra1@cs.com> wrote:


Owain:

I don't know where you are located but in Brandon Florida there is a shop
that rebuilds generators, alternators and water pumps .  I have done
business with them for 15 years with no issues.

Steve Halbrook

Sent from my iPhone


> On Dec 8, 2013, at 10:34 AM, " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com> wrote:
>
> Owain
>    I would suggest you try to find someone who can rebuild that
> alternator.  I have done that with several and it generally costs less
than
> $100.  Maybe there is a better fix for that internal regulator that comes
> with a rebuild.
>
> Sometimes you can find kits to rebuild alternators that have all the parts
> you need.
>
>    I'm not the electrical guy but I believe that regulator has to have
> similar amperage capacity as the alternator output otherwise they will
burn
> each other out.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Owain Lloyd
> Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 11:59 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Regulators
>
>
> While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list may
have
> the expertise to help with.  I have an alternator that the internal
> regulator has failed on.  Replacing the whole alternator is not such an
easy
> choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no reason to believe the
> regulator would not fail again.
>
> The regulator used inside has 4 wires.  One to the live wire, one to the
> charge light and two to the diode bridge.  I happen to have a four wire
> Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a replacement but I don't
> really know how it should be wired up.  The link below shows a pic of the
> Lucas regulator and more of the old regulator and the wiring in the
> alternator.
>
> Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I
could
> use the replacement?
>
> Many thanks indeed.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser@bluefrog.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sjhcobra1@cs.com
>
>



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From: "Will Seay" <wseay@embarqmail.com>
To: "'jim'" <jim@island.net>, "'Thomas Witt'" <atwittsend@verizon.net>,
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <52A371A9.4040107@roadrunner.com>
	<00ca01cef387$f322ed10$d968c730$@net>
	<E4BEC8A74B7F4620B969EA2F844B750A@optiplex3301>
	<00e201cef3a9$cfcf6060$6f6e2120$@net>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 13:39:20 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

And while we're on the subject, because your clutch slave cylinder has to match
to the new bolt pattern, plan on getting a new clutch slave cylinder mounting
bracket.  These tend to be pretty hard to find.  I bought a repro of one some
years ago.  It was on eBay.  Haven't seen any original or repro on eBay
recently.

Will Seay_____________
wseay@embarqmail.com
"I think not therefore I am not" (anon)


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jim
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 7:10 PM
To: 'Thomas Witt'; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap

It's more than just an 'extra' hole...

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/classic-tech/84248d1259105
111-289-5-bolt-bell-housing-block.jpg


Jim



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Witt
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 2:05 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap

There is this scattershield on Ebay. It is obviously a narrow/wide trans
pattern. On the engine side it has a boatload of bolt holes.  Maybe someone can
identify if it is both 5/6 bolt pattern. Which brings me to ask, where is the
"extra" bolt hole anyway?  - Tom

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-LAKEWOOD-289-302-351-BLOW-PROOF-BELL-HOUSING-3-
4-SPEED-MANUAL-TRANS-/390714498729?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&ha
sh=item5af8661ea9&vxp=mtr


----- Original Message -----
From: "jim" <jim@island.net>
To: "'Tod Brown'" <todbrown@roadrunner.com>; <tigers@autox.team.net>; "'Andy
Walker'" <awtiger@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Swap


>I thought the dual pattern bell housings referred to the trans end 
>where  there are both wide and narrow bolt patterns for the early/late 
>toploader...
>
>
> A friend of mine has one...and it will only fit a 6 bolt block
>
>
> Jim
> B382000446
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	<52A4CDE0.5020505@shaw.ca>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 15:01:50 -0500
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Theo!  Fantastic!  Many thanks.  How did you find that denso part?

The alternator case looks original but is actually 1/4" thick machined
alloy. If I can mount the denso unit in contact with the inside of the case
it should be a good heatsink.  With a larger pulley and a shield over the
alternator to keep the exhaust heat off like the etypes have, I might just
get away with it.

Thanks again

Owain
 On Dec 8, 2013 2:52 PM, "Theo Smit" <tsmit@shaw.ca> wrote:

> Hi Owain,
> I sent this to the list but it seems to be delayed for some reason...
>
>
> I found your regulator here:
> http://www.autoleader.cn/proshow.asp?id=903
> It says
> Black D-
> Yellow D+
> White B+
> Case DF
> Red B+
> Replaces Lucas UCB101 UCB101X UCB107 37582
>
> This article
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator-repair.shtml
> has a decent diagram of the original Lucas alternator/regulator wiring as
> well as instructions on the last page that reference the color codes on the
> new regulator.
>
> It appears that your custom alternator is basically built inside a
> stock-looking generator case, right?
> The failed regulator you have is a Denso type like this one:
> http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoin220.aspx
> except that the part where the circular connection is has been cut off and
> hand-wired out. The F connection would go to one of the brush terminals,
> and you'd have to check to see how the 'stator' terminal was wired to your
> custom installation.
>
> The regulator isn't really involved in the high current aspects of the
> alternator but even so, it can run warm, which is why the original Denso
> part had heat sink fins on it and it was mounted so those fins are in the
> external air flow. If you're rebuilding this, I would try to get it so that
> your regulator was mounted to a heat sink with external fins or at least to
> something that has a good thermal connection to the external case.
> Otherwise the regulator will likely overheat and fail early.
>
> This page shows how the circular Denso connector should be wired to the
> car's electrical system.
> http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/34.html
>
> Hope this all helps... I don't have a complete wire-for-wire replacement
> guide for you but this, and the actual alternator on your bench, might be
> enough to get it going again.
>
> Cheers,
> Theo
>
> On 12/7/2013 9:58 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
>> While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list may
>> have the expertise to help with.  I have an alternator that the internal
>> regulator has failed on.  Replacing the whole alternator is not such an
>> easy choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no reason to believe
>> the
>> regulator would not fail again.
>>
>> The regulator used inside has 4 wires.  One to the live wire, one to the
>> charge light and two to the diode bridge.  I happen to have a four wire
>> Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a replacement but I don't
>> really know how it should be wired up.  The link below shows a pic of the
>> Lucas regulator and more of the old regulator and the wiring in the
>> alternator.
>>
>> Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I
>> could
>> use the replacement?
>>
>> Many thanks indeed.
>>
>> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit@shaw.ca
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 15:51:33 2013
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From: "Bill Rogers" <milward@roadrunner.com>
To: "Tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 13:26:34 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Powergen Alternator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Owain, Powergen in the US does a 90 amp alternator in a generator case for our
Fords P/N 82101. Summit racing has them for $370.
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 16:17:42 2013
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2013 15:18:32 -0700
From: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: owain.lloyd@gmail.com
References: <CANE47iT-4TvSuejQ67gd=LjT8zfX+99fZDU_3vnP9X1BvFo2rQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<52A4CDE0.5020505@shaw.ca>
	<CANE47iRXgUdFjjjXPB3xnQQwGvX1X37EnuCOavj8OjLK1YvnpQ@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Owain,
I Googled 'integrated alternator regulator' and then did an image 
search, looking for parts where the heat sink and mounting hole patterns 
were similar. I then realized that your part had been modified to remove 
the OEM external connector.

If you can get a very close fit between your regulator and the external 
case, and use heat sink compound to further improve the heat transfer, 
as well as the pulley and shield mods, you should be in good shape.

Theo

On 12/8/2013 1:01 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
> Theo!  Fantastic!  Many thanks.  How did you find that denso part?
>
> The alternator case looks original but is actually 1/4" thick machined 
> alloy. If I can mount the denso unit in contact with the inside of the 
> case it should be a good heatsink.  With a larger pulley and a shield 
> over the alternator to keep the exhaust heat off like the etypes have, 
> I might just get away with it.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Owain
>
> On Dec 8, 2013 2:52 PM, "Theo Smit" <tsmit@shaw.ca 
>
>     Hi Owain,
>     I sent this to the list but it seems to be delayed for some reason...
>
>
>     I found your regulator here:
>     http://www.autoleader.cn/proshow.asp?id=903
>     It says
>     Black D-
>     Yellow D+
>     White B+
>     Case DF
>     Red B+
>     Replaces Lucas UCB101 UCB101X UCB107 37582
>
>     This article
>     http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator-repair.shtml
>     has a decent diagram of the original Lucas alternator/regulator
>     wiring as well as instructions on the last page that reference the
>     color codes on the new regulator.
>
>     It appears that your custom alternator is basically built inside a
>     stock-looking generator case, right?
>     The failed regulator you have is a Denso type like this one:
>     http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoin220.aspx
>     except that the part where the circular connection is has been cut
>     off and hand-wired out. The F connection would go to one of the
>     brush terminals, and you'd have to check to see how the 'stator'
>     terminal was wired to your custom installation.
>
>     The regulator isn't really involved in the high current aspects of
>     the alternator but even so, it can run warm, which is why the
>     original Denso part had heat sink fins on it and it was mounted so
>     those fins are in the external air flow. If you're rebuilding
>     this, I would try to get it so that your regulator was mounted to
>     a heat sink with external fins or at least to something that has a
>     good thermal connection to the external case. Otherwise the
>     regulator will likely overheat and fail early.
>
>     This page shows how the circular Denso connector should be wired
>     to the car's electrical system.
>     http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/34.html
>
>     Hope this all helps... I don't have a complete wire-for-wire
>     replacement guide for you but this, and the actual alternator on
>     your bench, might be enough to get it going again.
>
>     Cheers,
>     Theo
>
>     On 12/7/2013 9:58 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
>         While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the
>         list may
>         have the expertise to help with.  I have an alternator that
>         the internal
>         regulator has failed on.  Replacing the whole alternator is
>         not such an
>         easy choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no reason
>         to believe the
>         regulator would not fail again.
>
>         The regulator used inside has 4 wires.  One to the live wire,
>         one to the
>         charge light and two to the diode bridge.  I happen to have a
>         four wire
>         Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a replacement
>         but I don't
>         really know how it should be wired up.  The link below shows a
>         pic of the
>         Lucas regulator and more of the old regulator and the wiring
>         in the
>         alternator.
>
>         Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if
>         possible) I could
>         use the replacement?
>
>         Many thanks indeed.
>
>         https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
>         _______________________________________________
>
>
>         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>         Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>         Unsubscribe:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit@shaw.ca
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 19:35:32 2013
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	<E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E1554402871A4124@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 20:07:07 -0500
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: Jere Teepen <jteepen@usatoday.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

This one will have to be made on a lathe.  No taper though so should be
easy.
On Dec 8, 2013 8:01 PM, "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com> wrote:

> Reproduction Hi-po alternator pulleys are available from most of the
> Mustang parts houses.  Not sure about the pulley/shaft diameter
> compatibility though...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Owain Lloyd
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 12:02 PM
> To: Theo Smit; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
>
> Theo!  Fantastic!  Many thanks.  How did you find that denso part?
>
> The alternator case looks original but is actually 1/4" thick machined
> alloy. If I can mount the denso unit in contact with the inside of the case
> it should be a good heatsink.  With a larger pulley and a shield over the
> alternator to keep the exhaust heat off like the etypes have, I might just
> get away with it.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Owain
>  On Dec 8, 2013 2:52 PM, "Theo Smit" <tsmit@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> > Hi Owain,
> > I sent this to the list but it seems to be delayed for some reason...
> >
> >
> > I found your regulator here:
> > http://www.autoleader.cn/proshow.asp?id=903
> > It says
> > Black D-
> > Yellow D+
> > White B+
> > Case DF
> > Red B+
> > Replaces Lucas UCB101 UCB101X UCB107 37582
> >
> > This article
> > http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator-repair.shtml
> > has a decent diagram of the original Lucas alternator/regulator wiring
> > as well as instructions on the last page that reference the color
> > codes on the new regulator.
> >
> > It appears that your custom alternator is basically built inside a
> > stock-looking generator case, right?
> > The failed regulator you have is a Denso type like this one:
> > http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoin220.aspx
> > except that the part where the circular connection is has been cut off
> > and hand-wired out. The F connection would go to one of the brush
> > terminals, and you'd have to check to see how the 'stator' terminal
> > was wired to your custom installation.
> >
> > The regulator isn't really involved in the high current aspects of the
> > alternator but even so, it can run warm, which is why the original
> > Denso part had heat sink fins on it and it was mounted so those fins
> > are in the external air flow. If you're rebuilding this, I would try
> > to get it so that your regulator was mounted to a heat sink with
> > external fins or at least to something that has a good thermal
> connection to the external case.
> > Otherwise the regulator will likely overheat and fail early.
> >
> > This page shows how the circular Denso connector should be wired to
> > the car's electrical system.
> > http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/34.html
> >
> > Hope this all helps... I don't have a complete wire-for-wire
> > replacement guide for you but this, and the actual alternator on your
> > bench, might be enough to get it going again.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Theo
> >
> > On 12/7/2013 9:58 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
> >
> >> While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list
> >> may have the expertise to help with.  I have an alternator that the
> >> internal regulator has failed on.  Replacing the whole alternator is
> >> not such an easy choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no
> >> reason to believe the regulator would not fail again.
> >>
> >> The regulator used inside has 4 wires.  One to the live wire, one to
> >> the charge light and two to the diode bridge.  I happen to have a
> >> four wire Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a
> >> replacement but I don't really know how it should be wired up.  The
> >> link below shows a pic of the Lucas regulator and more of the old
> >> regulator and the wiring in the alternator.
> >>
> >> Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I
> >> could use the replacement?
> >>
> >> Many thanks indeed.
> >>
> >> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
_______________________________________________

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	<52A4CDE0.5020505@shaw.ca>
	<CANE47iRXgUdFjjjXPB3xnQQwGvX1X37EnuCOavj8OjLK1YvnpQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<52A4F038.8030303@shaw.ca>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 20:09:04 -0500
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

That's great information in those links.  Very helpful.
On Dec 8, 2013 5:18 PM, "Theo Smit" <tsmit@shaw.ca> wrote:

>  Hi Owain,
> I Googled 'integrated alternator regulator' and then did an image search,
> looking for parts where the heat sink and mounting hole patterns were
> similar. I then realized that your part had been modified to remove the OEM
> external connector.
>
> If you can get a very close fit between your regulator and the external
> case, and use heat sink compound to further improve the heat transfer, as
> well as the pulley and shield mods, you should be in good shape.
>
> Theo
>
> On 12/8/2013 1:01 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
> Theo!  Fantastic!  Many thanks.  How did you find that denso part?
>
> The alternator case looks original but is actually 1/4" thick machined
> alloy. If I can mount the denso unit in contact with the inside of the case
> it should be a good heatsink.  With a larger pulley and a shield over the
> alternator to keep the exhaust heat off like the etypes have, I might just
> get away with it.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Owain
>  On Dec 8, 2013 2:52 PM, "Theo Smit" <tsmit@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
>> Hi Owain,
>> I sent this to the list but it seems to be delayed for some reason...
>>
>>
>> I found your regulator here:
>> http://www.autoleader.cn/proshow.asp?id=903
>> It says
>> Black D-
>> Yellow D+
>> White B+
>> Case DF
>> Red B+
>> Replaces Lucas UCB101 UCB101X UCB107 37582
>>
>> This article
>> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator-repair.shtml
>> has a decent diagram of the original Lucas alternator/regulator wiring as
>> well as instructions on the last page that reference the color codes on the
>> new regulator.
>>
>> It appears that your custom alternator is basically built inside a
>> stock-looking generator case, right?
>> The failed regulator you have is a Denso type like this one:
>> http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoin220.aspx
>> except that the part where the circular connection is has been cut off
>> and hand-wired out. The F connection would go to one of the brush
>> terminals, and you'd have to check to see how the 'stator' terminal was
>> wired to your custom installation.
>>
>> The regulator isn't really involved in the high current aspects of the
>> alternator but even so, it can run warm, which is why the original Denso
>> part had heat sink fins on it and it was mounted so those fins are in the
>> external air flow. If you're rebuilding this, I would try to get it so that
>> your regulator was mounted to a heat sink with external fins or at least to
>> something that has a good thermal connection to the external case.
>> Otherwise the regulator will likely overheat and fail early.
>>
>> This page shows how the circular Denso connector should be wired to the
>> car's electrical system.
>> http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/34.html
>>
>> Hope this all helps... I don't have a complete wire-for-wire replacement
>> guide for you but this, and the actual alternator on your bench, might be
>> enough to get it going again.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Theo
>>
>> On 12/7/2013 9:58 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>>
>>> While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list may
>>> have the expertise to help with.  I have an alternator that the internal
>>> regulator has failed on.  Replacing the whole alternator is not such an
>>> easy choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no reason to believe
>>> the
>>> regulator would not fail again.
>>>
>>> The regulator used inside has 4 wires.  One to the live wire, one to the
>>> charge light and two to the diode bridge.  I happen to have a four wire
>>> Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a replacement but I don't
>>> really know how it should be wired up.  The link below shows a pic of the
>>> Lucas regulator and more of the old regulator and the wiring in the
>>> alternator.
>>>
>>> Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I
>>> could
>>> use the replacement?
>>>
>>> Many thanks indeed.
>>>
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit@shaw.ca
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2013 19:02:51 -0800
From: Tom Hall <modtiger@comcast.net>
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To: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>,  Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
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Cc: Tiger e-mail List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/8/2013 5:07 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
> This one will have to be made on a lathe.  No taper though so should be
> easy.
> On Dec 8, 2013 8:01 PM, "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com> wrote:

Owain,

The design standard for Ford alternator, generator, and power steering 
(hint) shafts was 0.625 or 5/8" in the 60's - 70's period. That leaves 
the lathe work on the pulley to matching  offsets for alignment.  I ran 
a 4" power steering pulley on my alternator for about 30 years in those 
days, and never threw a belt.  If you can identify the common 
connections on the alternator, you should also be able to bring them 
outside the case and run a totally external regulator.  That 
alternator/regulator match and selection however, is definitely more in 
Theo's territory.


-- 
Tom Hall
ModTiger Engineering LLC
www.tigerengineering.net
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 22:38:09 -0500
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: Tom Hall <modtiger@comcast.net>
Cc: Tiger e-mail List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Tom.  I'll take a look at those pulleys.

After reading some of Theo's links, it looks like is a 'three wire' regular
that the alternator manufacturer has taken the sense wire from the output
leaving two external terminals.  I intend to add one more terminal to take
a sense wire from the 'dash'.   I hope with the regulator screwed to some
copper or aluminum with heatsink compound and this in turn attached to the
1/4" aluminum casing, it should be kept much cooler and still work inside.
 I'll add a heat shield from the exhaust and that will hopefully be enough
to keep it sufficiently cool.


On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 10:02 PM, Tom Hall <modtiger@comcast.net> wrote:

> On 12/8/2013 5:07 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
>> This one will have to be made on a lathe.  No taper though so should be
>> easy.
>> On Dec 8, 2013 8:01 PM, "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com> wrote:
>>
>
> Owain,
>
> The design standard for Ford alternator, generator, and power steering
> (hint) shafts was 0.625 or 5/8" in the 60's - 70's period. That leaves the
> lathe work on the pulley to matching  offsets for alignment.  I ran a 4"
> power steering pulley on my alternator for about 30 years in those days,
> and never threw a belt.  If you can identify the common connections on the
> alternator, you should also be able to bring them outside the case and run
> a totally external regulator.  That alternator/regulator match and
> selection however, is definitely more in Theo's territory.
>
>
> --
> Tom Hall
> ModTiger Engineering LLC
> www.tigerengineering.net
_______________________________________________

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To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] test
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test
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From: "Teepen, Jere" <jteepen@usatoday.com>
To: "owain.lloyd@gmail.com" <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>, Theo Smit
	<tsmit@shaw.ca>, "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 20:01:34 -0500
Thread-Topic: [Tigers] Regulators
Thread-Index: Ac70W4Y5yLXEJ82XTFCPNWqA7Z99aQAHNxsw
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Reproduction Hi-po alternator pulleys are available from most of the Mustang
parts houses.  Not sure about the pulley/shaft diameter compatibility
though...

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Owain Lloyd
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 12:02 PM
To: Theo Smit; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Regulators

Theo!  Fantastic!  Many thanks.  How did you find that denso part?

The alternator case looks original but is actually 1/4" thick machined alloy.
If I can mount the denso unit in contact with the inside of the case it should
be a good heatsink.  With a larger pulley and a shield over the alternator to
keep the exhaust heat off like the etypes have, I might just get away with
it.

Thanks again

Owain
 On Dec 8, 2013 2:52 PM, "Theo Smit" <tsmit@shaw.ca> wrote:

> Hi Owain,
> I sent this to the list but it seems to be delayed for some reason...
>
>
> I found your regulator here:
> http://www.autoleader.cn/proshow.asp?id=903
> It says
> Black D-
> Yellow D+
> White B+
> Case DF
> Red B+
> Replaces Lucas UCB101 UCB101X UCB107 37582
>
> This article
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator-repair.shtml
> has a decent diagram of the original Lucas alternator/regulator wiring
> as well as instructions on the last page that reference the color
> codes on the new regulator.
>
> It appears that your custom alternator is basically built inside a
> stock-looking generator case, right?
> The failed regulator you have is a Denso type like this one:
> http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoin220.aspx
> except that the part where the circular connection is has been cut off
> and hand-wired out. The F connection would go to one of the brush
> terminals, and you'd have to check to see how the 'stator' terminal
> was wired to your custom installation.
>
> The regulator isn't really involved in the high current aspects of the
> alternator but even so, it can run warm, which is why the original
> Denso part had heat sink fins on it and it was mounted so those fins
> are in the external air flow. If you're rebuilding this, I would try
> to get it so that your regulator was mounted to a heat sink with
> external fins or at least to something that has a good thermal connection to
the external case.
> Otherwise the regulator will likely overheat and fail early.
>
> This page shows how the circular Denso connector should be wired to
> the car's electrical system.
> http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/34.html
>
> Hope this all helps... I don't have a complete wire-for-wire
> replacement guide for you but this, and the actual alternator on your
> bench, might be enough to get it going again.
>
> Cheers,
> Theo
>
> On 12/7/2013 9:58 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:
>
>> While not strictly tiger related, i have a problem I think the list
>> may have the expertise to help with.  I have an alternator that the
>> internal regulator has failed on.  Replacing the whole alternator is
>> not such an easy choice as its $1000 (don't ask!) and there is no
>> reason to believe the regulator would not fail again.
>>
>> The regulator used inside has 4 wires.  One to the live wire, one to
>> the charge light and two to the diode bridge.  I happen to have a
>> four wire Lucas regulator here that I'm hoping to use as a
>> replacement but I don't really know how it should be wired up.  The
>> link below shows a pic of the Lucas regulator and more of the old
>> regulator and the wiring in the alternator.
>>
>> Can anyone explain how it had been wired, and how the (if possible) I
>> could use the replacement?
>>
>> Many thanks indeed.
>>
>> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/v1qrr6i0rnld4og/FgJpXtP1Qb
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 08:10:35 2013
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2013 06:36:49 -0800
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Refurb Questions - Shifter chrome ring and rubber boot
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Any of our dedicated Sunbeam suppliers have the chrome ring and the 
rubber boot for the shift lever? Rather get those form one of our own 
than NPD or elsewhere.

larry

-- 
______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 10:18:11 2013
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From: "Lynn" <cars@wt-inc.com>
To: "'Terry Packer'" <packertl3@yahoo.com>, <Rollright@aol.com>,
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <7514c.6f5700cd.3fd4cf8a@aol.com>
	<1386457889.34030.YahooMailNeo@web141106.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 08:35:05 -0700
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	references
	<Rollright@aol.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] ScotchBrite
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I just finished restoring a 1929 visible gas pump with the original glass
cylinder.  The bottom of the cylinder had some rust and other deposits on
it.  I used grey scotchbrite, lightly, and it worked well.  I did not see
any scratches when done.  I also worked in a little water to lubricate.

Good luck

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Terry Packer
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 4:11 PM
To: Rollright@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] ScotchBrite

Jim

Here's a re-post of a message from 2012. I'm not aware of anyone responding
with additional Scotch pad colors. 


"The pads of different
colors are of different hardness. Green will most definitely scratch glass.
Generally, white will not scratch glass and can be safely used on shower
walls, etc. There are also at least a maroon and a grey generally found at
auto supply stores which are suitable for working out scratches in stainless
steel which has a visible "grain".

I have used white successfully on a glass shower wall and the gray and
maroon worked wonders to restore a stainless kitchen exhaust hood someone
had previously marred by applying an abrasive cleaner in a circular motion.
However, gray and maroon will scratch or cloud stainless with only a plain
smooth finish.


Terry Packer
9470018
________________________________
 From: "Rollright@aol.com"
<Rollright@aol.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, December 7,
2013 11:22 AM
Subject: [Tigers] ScotchBrite
 

Hello,

What color ScotchBrite
will NOT scratch glass, guys ?


Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
TAC 
0763
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 10:25:27 2013
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 11:46:11 -0500
From: Mark Rense <mark44124@gmail.com>
To: "drmayf@mayfco.com" <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Refurb Questions - Shifter chrome ring and rubber boot
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought my last one from Rick, should still be in catalog.

On Monday, December 9, 2013, Larry Mayfield wrote:

> Any of our dedicated Sunbeam suppliers have the chrome ring and the rubber
> boot for the shift lever? Rather get those form one of our own than NPD or
> elsewhere.
>
> larry
>
> --
> ______________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit speed
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mark44124@
> gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 10:41:52 2013
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 12:19:39 -0500 (EST)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] ScotchBrite
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Greener-Clean-Non-Scratch-2-Pack/dp/B002B
DUPOK
 
 
In a message dated 12/9/2013 9:15:57 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
cars@wt-inc.com writes:

scotchbrite
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 16:55:33 2013
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From: "Mountjoy" <dsmtjoy@cox.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <zVhk1m01y0NyJgq01VhmXq>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 13:27:37 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] 5-bolt 289 block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi all,

I need a correct 5-bolt bell, 289 block for the Le Mans Coupe. The previous
block broke and is basically a boat anchor.  I'd prefer a bare block with
standard bore & main caps but would consider a complete motor. I would
consider an .020" over bore.  The blocks I'm looking for would have the
casting numbers of:

260 blocks:

C3OE-B

C4OE-B

C4OE-E



289 blocks:

C3AE-N

C4OE-C

C4OE-F



I found one locally in SoCal but it's .060 over now and needs the bores
cleaned up.  I found a standard bore in Colorado but the shipping charges of
~$500. would kill me. Anyone near the SoCal area have any leads ?



Thanks !  I really appreciate your help



Darrell
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 18:21:39 2013
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 19:04:45 -0500 (EST)
To: dsmtjoy@cox.net, tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1386633885;
	bh=0mz6pR62pqlEzR48dc71uF1l6sDShcPeLPiA7YZGV9w=;
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] 5-bolt 289 block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I did a search here (http://car-part.com/index.htm) for 5  bolt 289 
hydraulic lifters engine came up with 1 in Tracy, Ca. Lots of  other searches 
available. HTH 
 
 
In a message dated 12/9/2013 3:53:36 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
dsmtjoy@cox.net writes:

Hi  all,

I need a correct 5-bolt bell, 289 block for the Le Mans Coupe. The  previous
block broke and is basically a boat anchor.  I'd prefer a  bare block with
standard bore & main caps but would consider a complete  motor. I would
consider an .020" over bore.  The blocks I'm looking  for would have the
casting numbers of:

260  blocks:

C3OE-B

C4OE-B

C4OE-E



289  blocks:

C3AE-N

C4OE-C

C4OE-F



I found one  locally in SoCal but it's .060 over now and needs the bores
cleaned  up.  I found a standard bore in Colorado but the shipping charges  
of
~$500. would kill me. Anyone near the SoCal area have any leads  ?



Thanks !  I really appreciate your  help



Darrell
_______________________________________________

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From: "Mountjoy" <dsmtjoy@cox.net>
To: <AAAGLASSS@aol.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <zc4k1m00V4KTlFx01c4l2g>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 17:41:47 -0800
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 5-bolt 289 block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm going through the resources.  Thanks for this referral !

Darrell

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
  To: dsmtjoy@cox.net ; tigers@autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 4:04 PM
  Subject: Re: [Tigers] 5-bolt 289 block


  I did a search here (http://car-part.com/index.htm) for 5 bolt 289 hydraulic
lifters engine came up with 1 in Tracy, Ca. Lots of other searches available.
HTH

  In a message dated 12/9/2013 3:53:36 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
dsmtjoy@cox.net writes:
    Hi all,

    I need a correct 5-bolt bell, 289 block for the Le Mans Coupe. The
previous
    block broke and is basically a boat anchor.  I'd prefer a bare block with
    standard bore & main caps but would consider a complete motor. I would
    consider an .020" over bore.  The blocks I'm looking for would have the
    casting numbers of:

    260 blocks:

    C3OE-B

    C4OE-B

    C4OE-E



    289 blocks:

    C3AE-N

    C4OE-C

    C4OE-F



    I found one locally in SoCal but it's .060 over now and needs the bores
    cleaned up.  I found a standard bore in Colorado but the shipping charges
of
    ~$500. would kill me. Anyone near the SoCal area have any leads ?



    Thanks !  I really appreciate your help



    Darrell
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 15:16:42 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 13:42:17 -0800
From: Drmayf <drmayf@mayfco.com>
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To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Top Loader Speedo drive gear tooth count...
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Any one know what the inside the trans tail shaft case, on the output 
shaft, what the drive gear which turns the driven speedo gear is?

larry
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 16:52:13 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 15:30:17 -0800
From: Tom Hall <modtiger@comcast.net>
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Cc: Tiger e-mail List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Top Loader Speedo drive gear tooth count...
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/12/2013 1:42 PM, Drmayf wrote:
> Any one know what the inside the trans tail shaft case, on the output 
> shaft, what the drive gear which turns the driven speedo gear is?
>
> larry
Yes, it's a 6 tooth count gear, but it's not the same as the later 6 
tooth gears used on T5's.

-- 
Tom Hall
ModTiger Engineering LLC
www.tigerengineering.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 17:02:24 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 15:52:43 -0800
From: Drmayf <drmayf@mayfco.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Tom Hall <modtiger@comcast.net>
References: <52AA2DB9.3050209@mayfco.com> <52AA4709.6070700@comcast.net>
Cc: Tiger e-mail List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Top Loader Speedo drive gear tooth count...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks, Tom. Data is for me to be able to figure the effects of both 
gear ratio and tire size changes to get as close as I can.  Good reason 
for one of them there ol' gps speedometers, eh?

By the way, what's different between T5 and Top Loader drive gears? 
Heck, I guess it can only be ID, OD or thickness...

Thanks, again!

larry
On 12/12/2013 3:30 PM, Tom Hall wrote:
> On 12/12/2013 1:42 PM, Drmayf wrote:
>> Any one know what the inside the trans tail shaft case, on the output 
>> shaft, what the drive gear which turns the driven speedo gear is?
>>
>> larry
> Yes, it's a 6 tooth count gear, but it's not the same as the later 6 
> tooth gears used on T5's.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 08:46:58 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 07:14:59 -0800
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Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Article
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I just received this via the LA Shelby club:

http://autos.yahoo.com/news/sunbeam-tiger-carroll-other-shelby-174843445.
html

Some factual errors, but they did spell Sunbeam Tiger right....

DW

____________________________________________________________
Do THIS before eating carbs &#40;every time&#41;
1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52ab2497cf84724970891st04vuc
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 16:12:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Nyberg <nyberg.roger@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 407
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

LOOKS LIKE EVERY OTHER WEEKEND!





On Saturday, December 14, 2013 1:29 PM,
"tigers-request@autox.team.net" <tigers-request@autox.team.net> wrote:
 
-----
Forwarded Message -----

Send Tigers mailing list submissions to
   
tigers@autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web,
visit
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
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Today's Topics:

   1. PowerBlock TV  ????
(Drmayf)
For the last couple of weeks, I have been unable to find Powerblock
TV 
on Spike channel. Did they go belly up or what?

larry

-- 
  
drmayf
_____________________________
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam. Period.
204.913 mph mile
average
210.779 mph exit top speed
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Hello,
 
I need some help in understanding....
 
Last night, Friday night, a  lot of parts, including a taillight lens,  an 
ammeter, a doorstop, some conv. top frame chrome rods, a  fuse block and  
cover, and so on. went for $ 305.00 US
 
What was in that assembly of parts that drove the price up so very high? I  
am vexed !
 
Help me understand what was the unobtanium here.
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
TAC  0763
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 18:00:45 2013
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From: Rollright@aol.com
Full-name: Rollright
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 19:49:50 -0500 (EST)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Tigers] very expensive ebay listing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Jay et al,
I should have put the listing number on the note I just sent,  the one 
where a rather innocent kit of parts went for $ 305
Listing number is  item number   181278460903 
So what drove it over the moon, do you  think?




Jim Armstrong
Mk 1A  
382002083
LRXFE
TAC 0763
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 17:10:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com>
To: "Rollright@aol.com" <Rollright@aol.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] very expensive ebay listing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I didn't see anything special. Maybe if the mirror is a genuine Talbot and in
great shape. I certainly have a better mix in what little remains of my spare
parts inventory parts, so maybe I should have an eBay blowout auction.
Stephen Waybright


________________________________
 From:
"Rollright@aol.com" <Rollright@aol.com>
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Saturday, December 14, 2013 6:49 PM
Subject: [Tigers] very expensive ebay
listing
 

Jay et al,
I should have put the listing number on the note I just
sent,  the one 
where a rather innocent kit of parts went for $ 305
Listing
number is  item number   181278460903 
So what drove it over the moon, do you 
think?




Jim Armstrong
Mk 1A  
382002083
LRXFE
TAC 0763
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/gswaybright@yahoo.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 19:41:23 2013
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 10:29:41 +0800
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com>
Cc: "Rollright@aol.com" <Rollright@aol.com>,
	"tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] very expensive ebay listing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

While the pricve is a littel on the high side the flase floor mounting
brackets can go for decent $ by themselves, the rear sheilds if nice also
can ell for good money.. i looked at the mirror... not a real talbot one..
you can see the screw head on the point sticking out.. talbost are matches
ot the shape of the mirror body.

I'd say its a good price for the stuf... but if you needed a few of those
harerder to find bits. i dont see it as to insane.. a good set of original
rear sheilds is worth alomst that often


On 15 December 2013 09:10, Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I didn't see anything special. Maybe if the mirror is a genuine Talbot and
> in
> great shape. I certainly have a better mix in what little remains of my
> spare
> parts inventory parts, so maybe I should have an eBay blowout auction.
> Stephen Waybright
>
>
> ________________________________
>  From:
> "Rollright@aol.com" <Rollright@aol.com>
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Sent:
> Saturday, December 14, 2013 6:49 PM
> Subject: [Tigers] very expensive ebay
> listing
>
>
> Jay et al,
> I should have put the listing number on the note I just
> sent,  the one
> where a rather innocent kit of parts went for $ 305
> Listing
> number is  item number   181278460903
> So what drove it over the moon, do you
> think?
>
>
>
>
> Jim Armstrong
> Mk 1A
> 382002083
> LRXFE
> TAC 0763
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/gswaybright@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 10:31:18 2013
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 407
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For anyone interested Veloucity c
 
Send  Tigers mailing list submissions to
tigers@autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide  Web, visit
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
or, via email, send a message  with subject or body 'help' to
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than "Re: Contents of  Tigers digest..."


Today's Topics:

1. PowerBlock  TV  ????  (Drmayf)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message:  1
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 15:36:39 -0800
From: Drmayf  <drmayf@mayfco.com>
To: Land-speed@autox.team.net, Tiger e-mail  List
<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers]  PowerBlock TV  ????

For the last couple of weeks, I have  been unable to find Powerblock TV 
on Spike channel. Did they go belly up  or what?

larry

-- 

drmayf
_____________________________
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam.  Period.
204.913 mph mile average
210.779 mph exit top  speed


------------------------------

_______________________________________________
Tigers  mailing  list
Tigers@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers


End  of Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue  407
**************************************
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Subject: [Tigers] car show on the tube
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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The Velocity channel has a lot of different car related shows on the tube.  
Just in case your interested.
 
 Beau
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From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 20:45:31 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac760ZFf8NEKCFh4SSePP2+1zH6KqA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey, guys:

 

If I remember correctly, some time back there was a discussion about
stock-sized aluminum radiators being available.  Did I dream that or was
that for real?  I'm considering replacing the radiator in my Mk1A but I want
to keep the stock size unit in it so I can run the stock fan shroud without
any modifications.  Is this possible?  Can someone point me toward the place
where I could get one of these jewels?

 

Thanks a million,

Andy Walker

Edmond, OK

B382001600LRXFE

TAC #740
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 20:14:51 2013
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References: <000001cefad2$0e038170$2a0a8450$@cox.net>
From: Jeff Hefner <jhef101@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 22:11:13 -0500
To: Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net>
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1387249873;
	bh=r6FbPuF72coRjQkgiZ6i38MJDI8Fn4hcdB3ExJMK1IA=;
	h=From:To:Subject:Message-Id:Date:Mime-Version:Content-Type;
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d290552afc0d157cb
Cc: "<tigers@autox.team.net>" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Ron Davis makes a perfect fit, the stock shroud fits.

rondavisradiators.com


Jeff Hefner
B9470028

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 16, 2013, at 9:45 PM, "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net> wrote:

> Hey, guys:
>
>
>
> If I remember correctly, some time back there was a discussion about
> stock-sized aluminum radiators being available.  Did I dream that or was
> that for real?  I'm considering replacing the radiator in my Mk1A but I
want
> to keep the stock size unit in it so I can run the stock fan shroud without
> any modifications.  Is this possible?  Can someone point me toward the
place
> where I could get one of these jewels?
>
>
>
> Thanks a million,
>
> Andy Walker
>
> Edmond, OK
>
> B382001600LRXFE
>
> TAC #740
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jhef101@aol.com
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


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References: <000001cefad2$0e038170$2a0a8450$@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 19:24:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>
To: Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Griffin Radiators made one a while back. I have one in my Tiger, it seems to
fit well. I don't have the shroud on it so can't comment about that part of
the fitment.

Sandy
 

________________________________
 From: Andy Walker
<awtiger@cox.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013
6:45 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators
  

Hey, guys:



If I remember
correctly, some time back there was a discussion about
stock-sized aluminum
radiators being available.  Did I dream that or was
that for real?  I'm
considering replacing the radiator in my Mk1A but I want
to keep the stock
size unit in it so I can run the stock fan shroud without
any modifications. 
Is this possible?  Can someone point me toward the place
where I could get one
of these jewels?



Thanks a million,

Andy Walker

Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE

TAC #740
_______________________________________________
tigers@autox.team.net

Archive:
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz@pacbell.net
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 21:13:28 2013
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References: <000001cefad2$0e038170$2a0a8450$@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 23:07:19 -0500
From: Alexander Washick <alw6464@gmail.com>
To: Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Dale A in Ca.http://www.dalesresto.com has his own he designed  ( 2 -  1
1/2 tubes I believe) and has it made overseas. He used to sell the Griffin
as he was a dealer but they said he buy enough and shut him off. Told me
his much better then their's and it bolts right with standard mounts and
shroud ( about 3/4 " thicker). My Tiger in Florida is a mildly modified 302
with air conditioning and is a daily driver. I installed one 5 years ago
with a 16" cooling fan and run around and sit in traffic with no problems
at all. Put the hardtop on in May thru Oct. and I am one cool dude with no
cooling issues at all. I love it!!  Al


On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net> wrote:

> Hey, guys:
>
>
>
> If I remember correctly, some time back there was a discussion about
> stock-sized aluminum radiators being available.  Did I dream that or was
> that for real?  I'm considering replacing the radiator in my Mk1A but I
> want
> to keep the stock size unit in it so I can run the stock fan shroud without
> any modifications.  Is this possible?  Can someone point me toward the
> place
> where I could get one of these jewels?
>
>
>
> Thanks a million,
>
> Andy Walker
>
> Edmond, OK
>
> B382001600LRXFE
>
> TAC #740
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/alw6464@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


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From: "Mark Rense" <mark44124@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <000001cefad2$0e038170$2a0a8450$@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2013 11:46:48 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac760ZFf8NEKCFh4SSePP2+1zH6KqAAcseAg
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Andy,
I had a Griffin in one of my cars for many years using the stock mounts and
stock shroud without issue. The aluminum core is about a 1/2" thicker than
stock but slightly thinner than a modern 3-row core which is what is in the
car now. In any case I had no issues with water pump shaft clearance on my
car.

I had to replace the Griffin when coming back from the Pittsburgh Gran Prix
on I-80 a couple years ago the harmonic balancer came apart, embedding
pieces into the core. I considered myself lucky that the radiator and timing
cover were the only casualties. The balancer was new when the 289 was
rebuilt in 2004, I have since upgraded to SFI-Approved balancers on all my
street cars.

Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andy Walker
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 9:46 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators

Hey, guys:

If I remember correctly, some time back there was a discussion about
stock-sized aluminum radiators being available.  Did I dream that or was
that for real?  I'm considering replacing the radiator in my Mk1A but I want
to keep the stock size unit in it so I can run the stock fan shroud without
any modifications.  Is this possible?  Can someone point me toward the place
where I could get one of these jewels?

 

Thanks a million,

Andy Walker

Edmond, OK

B382001600LRXFE

TAC #740
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mharc@autox.team.net


From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 17 16:12:08 2013
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From: Brent Edinger <banana111@msn.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2013 12:27:58 -0800
References: <mailman.1.1387306801.5431.tigers@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[799D21E0:01CEFB66]
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 409
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

-
>
I put a fluidyne in my car from Dale A last summer.  It's about 3/4" thicker
than the
stock one. With the stock shroud I found the fan was all the way inside the
shroud
and had bad airflow at idle. So I made a new shroud that compensates for the
extra thickness
so the fan stick out the back of the shroud about 3/4". Some guys I hear run
them with
no shroud but I think  you get better controlled airflow with it.

     Brent


> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 20:45:31 -0600
> From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
> To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators
> Message-ID: <000001cefad2$0e038170$2a0a8450$@cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hey, guys:
>
>
>
> If I remember correctly, some time back there was a discussion about
> stock-sized aluminum radiators being available.  Did I dream that or was
> that for real?  I'm considering replacing the radiator in my Mk1A but I
want
> to keep the stock size unit in it so I can run the stock fan shroud without
> any modifications.  Is this possible?  Can someone point me toward the
place
> where I could get one of these jewels?
>
>
>
> Thanks a million,
>
> Andy Walker
>
> Edmond, OK
>
> B382001600LRXFE
>
> TAC #740
>
>
> ------------------------------
****************************
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 17 16:17:24 2013
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2013 17:11:55 -0500
From: <awtiger@cox.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: Re:  Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Guys:

Thanks for all the responses on the radiator.  Gene Padgett sent me one that he wanted passed along to the group and, since his reply-to-all function isn't working on his computer, he asked me if I would do it for him.  So, here you go...

Andy

> Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2013 21:07:22 +0000 (UTC)
> From: genepadgett@comcast.net
> To: Andy Walker <awtiger@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators
> 
> Andy, for some reason, my reply to all function is not working. It does not like the tigers liss address in the cc space. I would like to share the info I sent you with everyone on the list. Would you please try to pass it along? Thanks, Gene 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: genepadgett@comcast.net 
> To: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net> 
> Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 3:54:53 PM 
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Andy, 
> 
> 
> I bought a Griffin a couple of years ago. I only got around to installing it a few months ago and have not yet driven the car with it installed. However I did have some issues. 
> 
> 
> Apparently Griffin has a couple of designs for the Tiger that they can use. Somehow we must have agreed to use the "racing" version based on specs received from someone. I am thinking it may have been someone they referred to as "Tiger Tom" but am not sure. 
> 
> 
> Anyway, when I finally got around to installing it, I found it had no drain plug. Also, the side mounting flanges were welded flush with the front of the radiator. When I called them about these issues they said they explained the whole racing version thing, which matched the number on my box. They offered to install a drain plug for me free if I sent it back but I did not want to incur the shipping charges. As for the forward positioned mounting flanges, I just made some 1/4 inch spacers to take up the gap between the flanges and the body work. Since everything is aluminum, I did not want to just tighten the mounting bolts down hard and still have a gap at that mounting flange ear. 
> 
> 
> The person I talked to two years ago and again this year was a guy named "Benji". 
> 
> 
> As for the radiator otherwise, I looks exactly like the stock one, even down to the elbow connection for the top overflow hose connection. It comes in bare aluminum, but I painted it with Eastwood's special purpose high temp gloss radiator paint. Looks great, very stock and as others have said, the shroud fits nicely. 
> 
> 
> Gene 
> ----- Original Message -----
> n the stock fan shroud without 
> any modifications. Is this possible? Can someone point me toward the place 
> where I could get one of these jewels? 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a million, 
> 
> Andy Walker 
> 
> Edmond, OK 
> 
> B382001600LRXFE 
> 
> TAC #740 
> _______________________________________________ 
> 
> tigers@autox.team.net 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett@comcast.net 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 07:33:59 2013
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From: "robert jaarsma" <64venezia@gmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 09:25:26 -0500
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Subject: [Tigers] steering wheel restoration
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Nowadays who is recommended for the restoration of my steering wheel?

I had it wrapped in a cover for years, but I like to hold on to the wood
again.

It is not that bad, but needs tlc. Thanks, Robert
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 13:36:22 2013
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From: "H. B. Elam" <harryb@elams.org>
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 15:15:48 -0500
To: "64venezia@gmail.com" <64venezia@gmail.com>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Robert,
  I have been pleased with the work Ken Corbin and Chris Reed did for me.
Try creedo@ix.netcom.com. Or (303)364-5787. Or P.O. Box 31495, Aurora
Colorado, 80041

Harry Elam
B382000471
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 15:36:34 2013
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 17:05:06 -0500 (EST)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Tigers] Engine for sale
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Came across this in Tampa Bay area of Florida.   I know nothing about it.
Just passing it on.  Mark
FORD RACE MOTOR5.0L (302 cubic inches), 512 roller  cam, GT40 alum. heads
158cc, 10.5:1 compression ratio, balanced, double roller  timing chain. Runs
high 12bs in quarter mile. Hear it run. $1,500  OBO.               Call
386-427-3975
May get picture here.
http://www.cruisenewsonline.com/ClassifiedPics/FordRaceMotor232.html
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 16:49:21 2013
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From: "Mountjoy" <dsmtjoy@cox.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <37e91n01X0NyJgq017eAHm>
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 14:30:19 -0800
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 410
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Dear Tiger friends,



I wanted to update you on my search for a 5-bolt, 289 block for our Sunbeam 
Lister Tiger.  I can't believe the terriffic and plentiful responses I've 
gotten from this community.  I am truly humbled.



Thanks to all your input I have found a "correct" block.  The casting number 
and date code are correct for what would have been installed by Bernard 
Unett after the Le Mans race in late '64.  The block I found is .030 over, 
will clean up with just a honing and should be good for many events.



Although the block from the race car was .040 over when I put it together 
eleven years ago, the damage it sustained did not make it feasible to extend 
the bore.  Although re-sleeving was an option it was one I did not want to 
do.



The next scheduled event for the car is SUNI.  Hope to see many of you 
there.



Again, thank you for all your support and assistance.



Merry Christmas,

Darrell
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References: <0E02D3B2-68E9-4077-A20C-0981CE65E19C@elams.org>
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 15:03:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Tony Lang <achd73@yahoo.com>
To: "H. B. Elam" <harryb@elams.org>, "64venezia@gmail.com"
	<64venezia@gmail.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have seen Kens work and it is top of the line. He makes look alike steering
wheels and restores originals. IF I was looking for someone to restore one of
mine, Ken is who I would turn to. just my opinion.
Tony
 
Tony Lang (TtT)
On Wednesday, December 18, 2013 2:33 PM, H. B. Elam <harryb@elams.org> wrote:
Robert,
  I have been pleased with the work Ken Corbin and Chris Reed did for
me.
Try creedo@ix.netcom.com. Or (303)364-5787. Or P.O. Box 31495, Aurora
Colorado, 80041

Harry Elam
B382000471
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 18:14:49 2013
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 23:46:15 +0000 (UTC)
From: George Re <mgman71@comcast.net>
To: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>
References: <000001cefad2$0e038170$2a0a8450$@cox.net>
	<1387250689.40318.YahooMailNeo@web185304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
  (Mac)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Aluminum radiators
Thread-Index: pTDUCwXOyUZxeUHBVdjQFbp6/sDPnQ==
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a Griffin on my Tiger and the shroud fits on with no problems. 

George 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Sandy Ganz" <sganz@pacbell.net> 
To: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>, tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 10:24:49 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators 

Griffin Radiators made one a while back. I have one in my Tiger, it seems to 
fit well. I don't have the shroud on it so can't comment about that part of 
the fitment. 

Sandy 


________________________________ 
From: Andy Walker 
<awtiger@cox.net> 
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 
6:45 PM 
Subject: [Tigers] Aluminum radiators 


Hey, guys: 



If I remember 
correctly, some time back there was a discussion about 
stock-sized aluminum 
radiators being available. Did I dream that or was 
that for real? I'm 
considering replacing the radiator in my Mk1A but I want 
to keep the stock 
size unit in it so I can run the stock fan shroud without 
any modifications. 
Is this possible? Can someone point me toward the place 
where I could get one 
of these jewels? 



Thanks a million, 

Andy Walker 

Edmond, OK 
B382001600LRXFE 

TAC #740 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 23:12:51 2013
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References: <000301cefbfd$00729510$0157bf30$@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 21:28:24 -0500
From: Jeffery Randall <jefferyrandall@gmail.com>
To: robert jaarsma <64venezia@gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] steering wheel restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I used Ken Corbin in Colorado, he did a nice job on the wood and also can
redo the hub if needed. I was also happy with the price.
   Jeff


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 9:25 AM, robert jaarsma <64venezia@gmail.com> wrote:

> Nowadays who is recommended for the restoration of my steering wheel?
>
> I had it wrapped in a cover for years, but I like to hold on to the wood
> again.
>
> It is not that bad, but needs tlc. Thanks, Robert
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 13:50:35 2013
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From: "Jeff Feit" <jeff@feitmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 10:04:26 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac78ywfVvRvsQKsuSPqcpqyuW0O+rQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Tigers] eBay grab bag
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Long shot, but here it goes. I recently bought a small collection of Tiger
parts on eBay. The only reason I bought it was to get the bracket and outlet
fitting from the heater valve. To be honest, I'm pretty sure that most of
the other parts weren't for a Tiger. Anyway, there was another bidder and I
was wondering if that happened to be anyone here? Wanted to see if the part
you needed was other than the water valve.

 

Jeff Feit.Kennett Square, PA.B9471573
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From: "robert jaarsma" <64venezia@gmail.com>
To: <sganz@pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:56:29 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac78/MnolhzmOXDvT5u+2CzLR0IM5Q==
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers] Aluminum radiators
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Sandy, 

I have probably the same Griffin radiator as George has, with the shroud
mounted with NO problem. Doug Jennings of Tiger Auto in Dayton Ohio, sold
(or still sells?) these. 

Robert

 

PS. Thanks for the many steering wheel responses.
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 15:11:29 2013
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 19:55:55 +0000
From: Jeff Howarth <jeff@v8tiger.demon.co.uk>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.0; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: tigers@autox.team.net, alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] How do you get a Sunbeam in an elevator......
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Guys,

I thought you might like ot see the ingenious exploits of a Sunbean 
restorer in Malaysia

Dharma has done several cars, but this one is different.

Built to go in a bar on the third floor, so how do you get it there if 
it doesnt fit in the lift and you don't own a Sikorsky Sky 
Crane..............
https://www.facebook.com/krishnanautocraftservices#!/photo.php?fbid=578890185510143&set=a.333237933408704.75715.102760763123090&type=1&theater

Look up Krishnan  Autocraft on facebook if the link fails to work

If anyone is going to Kuala Lumpur, its got to be worth a visit  and a 
beer there !
(No, I havent been)


Pretty good result from where he started.


Jeff
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 18:39:41 2013
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From: "Mountjoy" <dsmtjoy@cox.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 17:14:18 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] paint
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

All,

In going through the LM Tiger one of the things I wanted to do is repaint 
the Koni shocks.  They function well but look a little tattered from years 
of service.  I went to different forums trying to find the paint code. 
People tried different approached from color matching old shocks to using 
paint some of the Shelby & Mustang vendors supply, to finding "close enough" 
at the local paint store.  I contacted Koni NA in Kentucky and got this 
great response from one of their ITT people, Mason O'Hara.

Since many of us run Koni Shocks and want our Tigers to look as good as they 
can be, I thought Mr. O'Hara's response noteworthy.

Darrell,

"...We do not sell the paint either, but I can tell you what it is. The 
paint is simply PlastiKote T-31 Bright Orange found over the counter..."

    Mason O'Hara
    Technical Sales Representative
    KONI North America
    1961A International Way
    Hebron, Ky. 41048
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 07:02:10 -0800 (PST)
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Cc: "alpines@autox.team.net" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Rootes non-Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

One of the daily featured classified ads in todays Hemmings blog is a 

1961 Humber Super Snipe Series 3
for $14,000 negotiable in Stony Brook, Connecticut, if anyone is looking for a Rootes car with a little more seating area. I don't follow Humber sedans much, but this one looks very comfy, as if Rootes built a Jaguar sedan.

Rande Bellman
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 20 08:49:08 2013
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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 15:23:35 +0000
From: Jeff Howarth <jeff@v8tiger.demon.co.uk>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.0; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: "Wiencek, Thomas" <wiencek@anl.gov>,  "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>, "alpines@autox.team.net" <alpines@autox.team.net>
References: <52B34F4B.7090007@v8tiger.demon.co.uk>
	<3E2BF07BB4AA954FA586E3742832D5E8450F7C6E@BUTKUS.anl.gov>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] [Alpines] How do you get a Sunbeam in an elevator......
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Thomas,

yes it does seem a shame, but the rebuild was commissioned by a bar 
owner to have the car sit in his bar on the third floor.

Maybe he should have asked for a mini !

Interesting job though.

Not sure I would want to drive it up the highway.


Jeff

On 20/12/2013 15:03, Wiencek, Thomas wrote:
> All that work then they cut in half???????
>
> Does anyone know where the rims are from?
>
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=591601830905645&set=a.571039489628546.1073741835.102760763123090&type=3&theater
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: alpines-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:alpines-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Howarth
> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 1:56 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net; alpines@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Alpines] How do you get a Sunbeam in an elevator......
>
> Guys,
>
> I thought you might like ot see the ingenious exploits of a Sunbean restorer in Malaysia
>
> Dharma has done several cars, but this one is different.
>
> Built to go in a bar on the third floor, so how do you get it there if it doesnt fit in the lift and you don't own a Sikorsky Sky Crane..............
> https://www.facebook.com/krishnanautocraftservices#!/photo.php?fbid=578890185510143&set=a.333237933408704.75715.102760763123090&type=1&theater
>
> Look up Krishnan  Autocraft on facebook if the link fails to work
>
> If anyone is going to Kuala Lumpur, its got to be worth a visit  and a beer there !
> (No, I havent been)
>
>
> Pretty good result from where he started.
>
>
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________
> Alpines@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $17.25
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/alpines/wiencek@anl.gov
>
>
> .
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 20 13:05:22 2013
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From: Rollright@aol.com
Full-name: Rollright
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 14:50:50 -0500 (EST)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1387569050;
	bh=waXfn2ut0OF/kt2DLFY9JSHdXmVW2jBqqnAT84seLec=;
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Subject: [Tigers] Humber
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That Humber:
 
http://www
.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/humber/super_snipe/1617404.html
 
What an absolutely beautiful car. !!!
 
My only complaint (?) is they didn't pull the engine and shoot the  engine 
compartment. Small thing, tho
 
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
TAC  0763
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 11:30:13 2013
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From: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>
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Subject: [Tigers] Happy Holidays!
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http://members.shaw.ca/tsmit/tiger_xmas/IMG_1649.JPG

Cheers all! Have a safe and happy holiday and best wishes for 2014.

Theo
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 14:05:26 2013
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 13:04:02 -0800
From: drmayf <drmayf@mayfco.com>
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To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Happy Holidays!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Theo,

love the wheels!   Are those studded snow tires?   Or do you use 
chains?  Me, I prefer the off road deep lugged pattern tires for snow, 
33 inches tall, but every one to their own preferences, lol....  top 
down,,, way cool, literally....!


larry

-- 
drmayf
_____________________________
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam. Period.
204.913 mph mile average
210.779 mph exit top speed



On 12/22/2013 10:28 AM, Theo Smit wrote:
> http://members.shaw.ca/tsmit/tiger_xmas/IMG_1649.JPG
>
> Cheers all! Have a safe and happy holiday and best wishes for 2014.
>
> Theo
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 21:33:50 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Winblad <garywinblad@comcast.net>
To: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Happy Holidays!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Wow, that's nice Theo..  the car and the photo..  and the cheers!!
The same to all from California,
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 18:28:51 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Happy Holidays!

http://members.shaw.ca/tsmit/tiger_xmas/IMG_1649.JPG

Cheers all! Have a safe and happy holiday and best wishes for 2014.

Theo
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; auth=pass (LOGIN) smtp.auth=awtiger@cox.net
From: "Andy Walker" <awtiger@cox.net>
To: "'Gary Winblad'" <garywinblad@comcast.net>, "'Theo Smit'" <tsmit@shaw.ca>
References: <52B72F63.5050104@shaw.ca> <4lZs1n00d0NyJgq01lZtMB>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 18:37:26 -0600
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Happy Holidays!
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Same to you and yours, Theo...and to everyone on the list!!!!

Andy Walker
Edmond, OK


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Gary Winblad
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2013 3:34 PM
To: Theo Smit
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Happy Holidays!

Wow, that's nice Theo..  the car and the photo..  and the cheers!!
The same to all from California,
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Theo Smit <tsmit@shaw.ca>
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 18:28:51 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Happy Holidays!

http://members.shaw.ca/tsmit/tiger_xmas/IMG_1649.JPG

Cheers all! Have a safe and happy holiday and best wishes for 2014.

Theo
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Subject: [Tigers] Happy Holidays
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Have a great Christmas and a Happy New Year to all !!!!
Sunbeam owners.
Curt & Patti Meinel
Classic Sunbeam Inc.
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 09:49:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Steering Wheels for 1966 MK 1A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

In the absence of a stock tiger steering wheel or the resources to buy and
restore a original wheel, what are good wood alternatives that might allow you
to use the tiger horn trim ring while keeping the stock diameter, which I
think is 15", but not sure.  I have a monolite (rubber type feel) with adapter
but would like to move to a look a like and trim ring - any suggestions would
be appreciated.
 
Regards
Joel Martin
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 18:25:30 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 09:24:12 +0800
From: michael king <michael.s.king@gmail.com>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
Cc: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Steering Wheels for 1966 MK 1A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Joel,

I really cant think of an aftermarket rim that woud look good with the
stock tiger horn ring.. Do you want the feel of a wood rim, or the stock
look? MightI i suggest getting a stock alpine platic rim and have one of
the caompanies that does the plastic wheel restos give it that fake wood
finish?


On 25 December 2013 01:49, Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com> wrote:

> In the absence of a stock tiger steering wheel or the resources to buy and
> restore a original wheel, what are good wood alternatives that might allow
> you
> to use the tiger horn trim ring while keeping the stock diameter, which I
> think is 15", but not sure.  I have a monolite (rubber type feel) with
> adapter
> but would like to move to a look a like and trim ring - any suggestions
> would
> be appreciated.
>
> Regards
> Joel Martin
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king@gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 19:51:57 2013
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 21:50:37 -0500
From: Tod Brown <todbrown@roadrunner.com>
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To: Tigers@autox.team.net, Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel:

If you want to keep the horn ring from the Tiger, about the only options 
you have are a Tiger wheel, which is wood, of course and, as you noted, 
expensive, or an Alpine wheel. The Alpine wheel is identical to the 
Tiger wheel but is made of plastic and is much more readily available 
and, hence, cheaper. There are other wood wheels that can be fitted to 
the Tiger such as Moto-Lita or Nardi but are pretty expensive and would 
not look very good with the horn ring. There are other options to allow 
for the use of the horns with such wheels but, again, it's more money. I 
notice there is a hub and horn button for a Moto-Lita wheel on eBay 
right now for $277.00. The cost of the wheel is additional, of course, 
so you can see where this is going pretty quickly. Several years ago, I 
was able to find a leather Moto-Lita wheel on eBay and a mounting hub at 
reasonable prices. In addition I found a replacement turn signal switch 
with an extra position (used to flash the high beams, I believe, in the 
original application) that I use to activate the horns by pulling the 
stalk toward me. The Lucas number is in the CAT notes, IIRC. My original 
wooden wheel and horn ring are carefully stored and, no, they are not 
for sale. Hope this helps.

Merry Christmas to All,

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
TAC#864
Original Owner
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 09:23:26 2013
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From: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Full-name: AAAGLASSS
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 11:22:06 -0500 (EST)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Steering Wheels
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I was thinking about a new steering wheel/adaptor a  while back and found 
_bryan@jones6299.freeserve.co.uk_ (mailto:bryan@jones6299.freeserve.co.uk)    
was very helpful. I haven't bought one yet but the prices weren't bad. Be 
vary  weary of some e-bay ads as some will buy direct from the Manufacturers 
and jack  up the price. Just like the Traction Masters that appear on e-bay. 
Also e-bay  fees are getting ridiculous as they get 10% of the selling 
price and also charge  you 10% of the shipping charges. My next step will be 
contacting Moto-Lita  direct  http://www.moto-lita.co.uk/ and see  what they 
have to say about pricing/shipping. Also when looking for anything  use  
https://www.google.com/   .      HTH
 
 
 
 
 
 a message dated 12/24/2013 6:50:56 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
todbrown@roadrunner.com writes:
 
Joel:

If you want to keep the horn ring from the Tiger,  about the only options 
you have are a Tiger wheel, which is wood, of  course and, as you noted, 
expensive, or an Alpine wheel. The Alpine wheel  is identical to the 
Tiger wheel but is made of plastic and is much more  readily available 
and, hence, cheaper. There are other wood wheels that  can be fitted to 
the Tiger such as Moto-Lita or Nardi but are pretty  expensive and would 
not look very good with the horn ring. There are other  options to allow 
for the use of the horns with such wheels but, again,  it's more money. I 
notice there is a hub and horn button for a Moto-Lita  wheel on eBay 
right now for $277.00. The cost of the wheel is additional,  of course, 
so you can see where this is going pretty quickly. Several  years ago, I 
was able to find a leather Moto-Lita wheel on eBay and a  mounting hub at 
reasonable prices. In addition I found a replacement turn  signal switch 
with an extra position (used to flash the high beams, I  believe, in the 
original application) that I use to activate the horns by  pulling the 
stalk toward me. The Lucas number is in the CAT notes, IIRC.  My original 
wooden wheel and horn ring are carefully stored and, no, they  are not 
for sale. Hope this helps.

Merry Christmas to  All,

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
TAC#864
Original  Owner
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 10:43:32 2013
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References: <4d4f3.4f596c30.3fec602e@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 12:42:13 -0500
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941@gmail.com>
To: AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

For a MotoLita lookalike, try Finish Line in Hollywood, FL
www.finishlineaccessories.com Item MK3-9. It fit my Motolita Tiger hub
perfectly. It has a slight (1 1/4//" dish). I don't know what the prices
are now, when I bought mine the MotoLita wheel was listed at $270, the
FinishLine Wheel at $135.

Tom
'67 Mark 2


On Wed, Dec 25, 2013 at 11:22 AM, <AAAGLASSS@aol.com> wrote:

> I was thinking about a new steering wheel/adaptor a  while back and found
> _bryan@jones6299.freeserve.co.uk_ (mailto:bryan@jones6299.freeserve.co.uk)
> was very helpful. I haven't bought one yet but the prices weren't bad. Be
> vary  weary of some e-bay ads as some will buy direct from the
> Manufacturers
> and jack  up the price. Just like the Traction Masters that appear on
> e-bay.
> Also e-bay  fees are getting ridiculous as they get 10% of the selling
> price and also charge  you 10% of the shipping charges. My next step will
> be
> contacting Moto-Lita  direct  http://www.moto-lita.co.uk/ and see  what
> they
> have to say about pricing/shipping. Also when looking for anything  use
> https://www.google.com/   .      HTH
>
>
>
>
>
>  a message dated 12/24/2013 6:50:56 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> todbrown@roadrunner.com writes:
>
> Joel:
>
> If you want to keep the horn ring from the Tiger,  about the only options
> you have are a Tiger wheel, which is wood, of  course and, as you noted,
> expensive, or an Alpine wheel. The Alpine wheel  is identical to the
> Tiger wheel but is made of plastic and is much more  readily available
> and, hence, cheaper. There are other wood wheels that  can be fitted to
> the Tiger such as Moto-Lita or Nardi but are pretty  expensive and would
> not look very good with the horn ring. There are other  options to allow
> for the use of the horns with such wheels but, again,  it's more money. I
> notice there is a hub and horn button for a Moto-Lita  wheel on eBay
> right now for $277.00. The cost of the wheel is additional,  of course,
> so you can see where this is going pretty quickly. Several  years ago, I
> was able to find a leather Moto-Lita wheel on eBay and a  mounting hub at
> reasonable prices. In addition I found a replacement turn  signal switch
> with an extra position (used to flash the high beams, I  believe, in the
> original application) that I use to activate the horns by  pulling the
> stalk toward me. The Lucas number is in the CAT notes, IIRC.  My original
> wooden wheel and horn ring are carefully stored and, no, they  are not
> for sale. Hope this helps.
>
> Merry Christmas to  All,
>
> Tod
> B382002384LRXFE
> TAC#864
> Original  Owner
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 12:46:49 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 12:28:27 -0700
From: Jeff Eakin <jeff.eakin@comcast.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Tiger Steering Wheels
Thread-Index: Ac8Bp3wVuqg05G2aEeOlVBCa3VkKHw==
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Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

For those wanting a remanufactured Tiger Steering wheel that looks EXACTLY
as a new one I suggest you contact Ken Corbin, in Aurora, CO. (303) 364-5787
He has been making these for years. Or if you want I can email a few photos.
jeff.eakin@comcast.net. I have had them on both my Tigers for years and love
them. He starts with an old original steering wheel in need of repair. He
applies new wood and a lot of TLC. In addition they come with a brand new
totally original looking epoxy hub.
   ~ ~ ~ 
Jeff Eakin
Pres. Colorado Assn. of Tiger Owners (C.A.T.O)
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 12:56:14 2013
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From: Arden Bedell <sixtysixtiger@hotmail.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 11:34:58 -0800
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	FILETIME=[6873B260:01CF01A8]
Subject: [Tigers] 260ci engine for sale
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In case anyone is interested, this ad is for a standard bore 260 for a
Tiger. No affiliation.

 

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/4248953228.html
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 14:40:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Will Seay <wseay@embarqmail.com>
To: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
	(Win)/7.2.2_GA_2852)
Cc: Tiger List Serve <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Steering Wheels for 1966 MK 1A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Joel,
You might want to get yourself an Alpine (plastic) steering wheel and put an 
aftermarket cover on it.  I have seen a number of these covers and many are 
very nice.  I remember that before I had my car restored that I had a cover 
on the wheel and, frankly, I liked the feel of the covered wheel better than 
the feel of the (restored) wooden wheel.

-Will 382001570


----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
To: "Tiger List Serve" <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 12:49:06 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Steering Wheels for 1966 MK 1A

In the absence of a stock tiger steering wheel or the resources to buy and
restore a original wheel, what are good wood alternatives that might allow you
to use the tiger horn trim ring while keeping the stock diameter, which I
think is 15", but not sure.  I have a monolite (rubber type feel) with adapter
but would like to move to a look a like and trim ring - any suggestions would
be appreciated.
 
Regards
Joel Martin
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 13:03:39 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 19:52:39 +0000 (UTC)
From: genepadgett@comcast.net
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Steering Wheels
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I would like to add a testimonial regarding Brian Jones. I bought a Motolita wheel and adapter hub from him several years ago but still have not gotten around to installing it yet. He is an absolute prince of a fellow. He went out of his way to be helpful throughout the purchase process, including expediting the shipping. I highly recommend him to you. 


If you decide to get a Motolita wheel, getting a dished one is definitely better than a flat faced one. I got the one with the single elongated slot in each spoke. Were I to make the purchase again, I would seriously consider getting the leather covered rim rather than the wood covered one. The wood version is beautiful, but is really not much thicker than the stock wheel, if at all. From a general driving perspective, I think a thicker wheel would be more enjoyable. 

Perhaps Brian has already explained it, but aware that there are two types of adapter hubs. One allows you to keep the telescoping feature of the stock wheel, the other does not. I think there is a bit of a trick involved in getting the telescoping version installed, something I have not yet attempted. And it may not be adjustable "on the fly" like the stock one can be. Again, I do not recall the specifics. Maybe someone on the List here can clarify the installation procedure . 


At this point, I plan to just lace a nice black leather cover over the stock wheel I have to see how I like that. But if you decided on a Motolita wheel, I think you will be very happy with dealing with Brian. And as I recall, his price was the same or better than the factory, and service was first class. 


Gene 
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 13:04:04 2013
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I would like to add a testimonial regarding Brian Jones. I bought a Motolita wheel and adapter hub from him several years ago but still have not gotten around to installing it yet. He is an absolute prince of a fellow. He went out of his way to be helpful throughout the purchase process, including expediting the shipping. I highly recommend him to you. 


If you decide to get a Motolita wheel, getting a dished one is definitely better than a flat faced one. I got the one with the single elongated slot in each spoke. Were I to make the purchase again, I would seriously consider getting the leather covered rim rather than the wood covered one. The wood version is beautiful, but is really not much thicker than the stock wheel, if at all. From a general driving perspective, I think a thicker wheel would be more enjoyable. 

Perhaps Brian has already explained it, but aware that there are two types of adapter hubs. One allows you to keep the telescoping feature of the stock wheel, the other does not. I think there is a bit of a trick involved in getting the telescoping version installed, something I have not yet attempted. And it may not be adjustable "on the fly" like the stock one can be. Again, I do not recall the specifics. Maybe someone on the List here can clarify the installation procedure . 


At this point, I plan to just lace a nice black leather cover over the stock wheel I have to see how I like that. But if you decided on a Motolita wheel, I think you will be very happy with dealing with Brian. And as I recall, his price was the same or better than the factory, and service was first class. 


Gene 
_____________________ 

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 18:33:20 2013
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From: "Curt Bowland" <cbowland@msn.com>
To: "tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 19:31:45 -0600
Seal-Send-Time: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 19:31:45 -0600
	FILETIME=[927C3A80:01CF036C]
Subject: [Tigers] Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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One of the considerations I have not heard addressed regarding the use of a
wood or wood rimed steering wheel.

One of the concerns in Vintage Racing circles is that of wood rim steering
wheels. The concern revolve around the potential of wood splinters entering
the driver while under impact.

I doubt many of you will concern yourself with an issue like this but
awareness never hurts.

I also happen to really like the feel of my leather wrapped wheel!

Just my .02

Regards, and Happy New Year

Curt in Chicago
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From: Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 07:27:13 -0800
To: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Here is an interesting idea.  When this guy rebuilt the Tiger, he made a
battery box behind the passenger seat.  I wonder how the battery does with the
heat of the exhaust below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281232832701
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 20:03:51 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 22:00:09 -0500 (EST)
To: cbowland@msn.com, tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Agree on all points. Add in the cumbersome 15" diameter and thin section  
and I couldn't wait to replace the oem wheel...which is nicely boxed and  
sitting on the shelf at the garage mahal ;-)
 
I did see an interesting wheel today on a car built by Dale, which had a  
14" diameter wood rim, with a custom fabricated horn ring, which was  
visually very close to the stock set up. 
 
 
In a message dated 12/27/2013 5:32:19 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
cbowland@msn.com writes:

One of  the considerations I have not heard addressed regarding the use of a
wood  or wood rimed steering wheel.

One of the concerns in Vintage Racing  circles is that of wood rim steering
wheels. The concern revolve around the  potential of wood splinters entering
the driver while under  impact.

I doubt many of you will concern yourself with an issue like  this but
awareness never hurts.

I also happen to really like the  feel of my leather wrapped wheel!

Just my .02

Regards, and Happy  New Year

Curt in  Chicago
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From: "Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980@gmail.com>
To: "'Jay Laifman'" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>, "'Tiger List'"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <C5FE2B29-6E97-4AA6-9B72-EE1974C91696@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 21:15:29 -0600
Thread-Index: AQL4WQlH2DXDmFyzlneBJEfWe8Rks5gWQ6Qw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Didn't the Alpine have the battery in that location?  And didn't the Alpine
have the spare tire in that position?  Have the experts really looked at
these photos?


Thanks,
Joe Brown
Arlington, TX
B382000217



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2013 9:27 AM
To: Tiger List
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger for sale

Here is an interesting idea.  When this guy rebuilt the Tiger, he made a
battery box behind the passenger seat.  I wonder how the battery does with
the heat of the exhaust below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281232832701
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 20:20:40 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <C5FE2B29-6E97-4AA6-9B72-EE1974C91696@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 19:19:16 -0800
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

>>>Here is an interesting idea.<<<
Jay,
  Are you being facetious??? The reason I ask is because the presence of a 
battery box is a question mark for a non-authentic Tiger.  It is hard to 
tell what is under the trunk mat, but there again the spare tire location 
causes me to ponder.  Then there is the "through the frame holes were 
bypassed." And, I'm struggling to tell if the  frame has been reinforced 
with all new suspension" means the bypass holes aren't there (anymore)??? 
Odd that they would reinforced be on a "rust free" Tiger.  Just saying....

Tom


> Here is an interesting idea.  When this guy rebuilt the Tiger, he made a
> battery box behind the passenger seat.  I wonder how the battery does with 
> the
> heat of the exhaust below.
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281232832701
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 21:35:17 2013
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Sensitivity: Normal
To: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>, tigers-bounces@autox.team.net,
	tigers@autox.team.net
From: jay.laifman@gmail.com
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 04:32:11 +0000
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

All,

Yes, I know full well that is an Alpine box. I should have put a smilie on my post!  That was always a pet peeve of my dad's.  

I'd point out that while I do believe someone with a Mk 1 Tiger could decide to move their fuel pump, and then build a battery box where the Alpine had it, if someone did that, there is no way that it would look aged and original like it does in that picture - painted faded red.

I also thought it was funny how the seller seemed to suggest it being a novel idea.

And, yes, I could also see that if someone did move the battery out of the trunk, it would make sense to prop up the spare tire like an Alpine. It really makes for more room.

As to the heat on the battery, in most cars I've seen, the battery is forward of the engine.  So air flow from even the fan will keep heat moving away from the radiator.  But to have the heat of the pipe going straight up to the battery seems more extreme.  But the honorable Dr. makes a good point. On the other hand, we do know that heat there causes fuel pump problems.

I can see the larger fender supports.  I figure if there was a Tiger used for creating this car, they'd cut out the transmission cover and weld it in - bringing the spark plug hole with. So do those look like original rivets?  :-)

------Original Message------
From: Thomas Witt
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger for sale
Sent: Dec 27, 2013 7:19 PM

>>>Here is an interesting idea.<<<
Jay,
  Are you being facetious??? The reason I ask is because the presence of a 
battery box is a question mark for a non-authentic Tiger.  It is hard to 
tell what is under the trunk mat, but there again the spare tire location 
causes me to ponder.  Then there is the "through the frame holes were 
bypassed." And, I'm struggling to tell if the  frame has been reinforced 
with all new suspension" means the bypass holes aren't there (anymore)??? 
Odd that they would reinforced be on a "rust free" Tiger.  Just saying....

Tom


> Here is an interesting idea.  When this guy rebuilt the Tiger, he made a
> battery box behind the passenger seat.  I wonder how the battery does with 
> the
> heat of the exhaust below.
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281232832701
_______________________________________________

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Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 07:30:05 2013
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References: <COL131-DS64045ED7E7BD1158BF598DBCC0@phx.gbl>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 09:28:30 -0500
From: Chip Broadbooks <chip.broadbooks@gmail.com>
To: Curt Bowland <cbowland@msn.com>
Cc: tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I am going to be much more worried about the car than splinters. If I hit
hard enough that the steering wheel comes apart, chances are, I am not
walking away.
Then Dad will meet me outside the Pearly Gates to whip my ass for what I
have done to his car....
On Dec 27, 2013 8:32 PM, "Curt Bowland" <cbowland@msn.com> wrote:

> One of the considerations I have not heard addressed regarding the use of a
> wood or wood rimed steering wheel.
>
> One of the concerns in Vintage Racing circles is that of wood rim steering
> wheels. The concern revolve around the potential of wood splinters entering
> the driver while under impact.
>
> I doubt many of you will concern yourself with an issue like this but
> awareness never hurts.
>
> I also happen to really like the feel of my leather wrapped wheel!
>
> Just my .02
>
> Regards, and Happy New Year
>
> Curt in Chicago
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/chip.broadbooks@gmail.com
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 13:49:21 -0500 (EST)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1388256561;
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Subject: [Tigers] Headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm needing to order new headlights for my car. I've noticed many are  
running Lucas PL700 tripod type non-sealed beams, these days. How is the quality 
 on the reproductions readily available? Is buying used originals a better 
idea?  "Back in the day" would the PL700 or P700 have been more commonly 
seen on the  Tiger?
 
Other options? I'm thinking a more modern Hella (or equivalent) halogen  
might function better?
 
TIA
Mike
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 12:00:07 2013
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To: MWood24020@aol.com,tigers-bounces@autox.team.net,tigers@autox.team.net
From: jay.laifman@gmail.com
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 18:58:33 +0000
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

What is the difference between PL and P? 

I bought some years ago. I love then. But I never felt they fit or matched the Sunbeam look. 


Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: MWood24020@aol.com
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Headlights

I'm needing to order new headlights for my car. I've noticed many are  
running Lucas PL700 tripod type non-sealed beams, these days. How is the quality 
 on the reproductions readily available? Is buying used originals a better 
idea?  "Back in the day" would the PL700 or P700 have been more commonly 
seen on the  Tiger?
 
Other options? I'm thinking a more modern Hella (or equivalent) halogen  
might function better?
 
TIA
Mike
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 13:00:19 2013
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From: Tod Brown <todbrown@roadrunner.com>
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To: tigers@autox.team.net, MWood24020@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

PL700's were never original equipment on the Tiger although some may 
have fitted them back in the day. The problem was they were not, IIRC, 
sealed beams, which were the only legal headlamps in the US back in the 
60's.

Apparently, you can now get reproduction PL700's which use halogen bulbs 
and are now legal under more modern regulations. Rather than trying to 
find a pair of original PL700's, which would be quite expensive, the 
repros would seem the way to go - cheaper and better lighting if you 
like the look.

Cheers,

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
TAC 864
Original Owner
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From: "Mark Rense" <mark44124@gmail.com>
To: <MWood24020@aol.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <ba129.24219df0.3ff07731@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 16:12:13 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac8D/ZZIsJbUbnyiQxWQF1XQ3rVDggAEOJQg
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike,
Consider these GE Nighthawk Sport H6024NHS 7" sealed beams, they put out
twice the light on low beam over the old incandescents and are only 35 watts
per lamp. They are low enough of a draw you can use them as DRL (daylight
running lamps) for additional visibility even running the generator. The
high beams are 65 watts and throw quite a nice pattern.

On sale now at Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/GE-H6024NHS-Nighthawk-Automotive-Headlight/dp/B0017ODW
1C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388263695&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+H6024NHS

Be forewarned, the classic sealed beam will completely disappear in a couple
years, if ANYONE needs headlights you better buy some now and stash them
away.

Be very wary of buying old non-sealed lamp shells such as the P700 or
Hella/Cibie types, as the reflective coating inside decays rapidly and you
wind up loosing much of the light output. This is a fundamental problem with
this type of forward lighting, which is why the DOT outlawed them back in
the '50's. A sealed beam always gives you a fresh reflector with every new
lamp.

Bugz - 32 years in the Automotive/Halogen lighting industry


-----Original Message-----
From: MWood24020@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 1:49 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Headlights

Other options? I'm thinking a more modern Hella (or equivalent) halogen  
might function better?
 
TIA
Mike
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 15:03:01 2013
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From: CoolVT@aol.com
Full-name: CoolVT
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 17:01:38 -0500 (EST)
To: mark44124@gmail.com, MWood24020@aol.com, tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1388268098;
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Bugz,
Nice to know that.  I have a stash of halogens that I picked up at a  great 
price.  I should be set for the life of the car or the life of the  
owner...whichever comes first:-)
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 12/28/2013 4:14:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
mark44124@gmail.com writes:

Mike,
Consider these GE Nighthawk Sport H6024NHS 7" sealed  beams, they put out
twice the light on low beam over the old incandescents  and are only 35 
watts
per lamp. They are low enough of a draw you can use  them as DRL (daylight
running lamps) for additional visibility even running  the generator. The
high beams are 65 watts and throw quite a nice  pattern.

On sale now at  Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/GE-H6024NHS-Nighthawk-Automotive-Headlight/dp/B0017ODW
1C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388263695&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+H6024NHS

Be  forewarned, the classic sealed beam will completely disappear in a  
couple
years, if ANYONE needs headlights you better buy some now and stash  them
away.

Be very wary of buying old non-sealed lamp shells such as  the P700 or
Hella/Cibie types, as the reflective coating inside decays  rapidly and you
wind up loosing much of the light output. This is a  fundamental problem 
with
this type of forward lighting, which is why the  DOT outlawed them back in
the '50's. A sealed beam always gives you a fresh  reflector with every new
lamp.

Bugz - 32 years in the  Automotive/Halogen lighting industry


-----Original  Message-----
From: MWood24020@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013  1:49 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers]  Headlights

Other options? I'm thinking a more modern Hella (or  equivalent) halogen  
might function  better?

TIA
Mike
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 15:17:41 2013
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	<8D0DF3C8EB2D4DF492CA03095BD555C9@delld630>
From: Allan Ballard <aballard@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 17:16:17 -0500
To: Mark Rense <mark44124@gmail.com>
Cc: "<tigers@autox.team.net>" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

My Tiger is running Marchal Amplilux.

They came with the car.

They provide decent  illumination and have options but I'd prefer illumination
as good as the SUV.

What is the optimum for our Sunbeams.

Allan Ballard
Mk1a
Series IV Alpine
Series 1 Alpine


Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 28, 2013, at 4:12 PM, "Mark Rense" <mark44124@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Mike,
> Consider these GE Nighthawk Sport H6024NHS 7" sealed beams, they put out
> twice the light on low beam over the old incandescents and are only 35
watts
> per lamp. They are low enough of a draw you can use them as DRL (daylight
> running lamps) for additional visibility even running the generator. The
> high beams are 65 watts and throw quite a nice pattern.
>
> On sale now at Amazon:
>
>
http://www.amazon.com/GE-H6024NHS-Nighthawk-Automotive-Headlight/dp/B0017ODW
> 1C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388263695&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+H6024NHS
>
> Be forewarned, the classic sealed beam will completely disappear in a
couple
> years, if ANYONE needs headlights you better buy some now and stash them
> away.
>
> Be very wary of buying old non-sealed lamp shells such as the P700 or
> Hella/Cibie types, as the reflective coating inside decays rapidly and you
> wind up loosing much of the light output. This is a fundamental problem
with
> this type of forward lighting, which is why the DOT outlawed them back in
> the '50's. A sealed beam always gives you a fresh reflector with every new
> lamp.
>
> Bugz - 32 years in the Automotive/Halogen lighting industry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MWood24020@aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 1:49 PM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Headlights
>
> Other options? I'm thinking a more modern Hella (or equivalent) halogen
> might function better?
>
> TIA
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aballard@ix.netcom.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 15:33:11 2013
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References: <ba129.24219df0.3ff07731@aol.com>
	<8D0DF3C8EB2D4DF492CA03095BD555C9@delld630>
	<F2BAA133-AC57-46F9-B5DD-D6F01DA6C53A@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 17:31:50 -0500
From: Owain Lloyd <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
To: Allan Ballard <aballard@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Personally, I hate driving at night so I use ultra bright xenon H4 bulbs to
make sure I can see. I got them in a period yellow/white colour rather than
the more usual blueish tint, but they provide stacks of light and only draw
55W.  Short of full on HIDs, they were the best I found.

Real period lights bring me to a complete standstill in the rain at night.

It's a pretty subjective topic to touch on :)
On Dec 28, 2013 10:16 PM, "Allan Ballard" <aballard@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

> My Tiger is running Marchal Amplilux.
>
> They came with the car.
>
> They provide decent  illumination and have options but I'd prefer
> illumination
> as good as the SUV.
>
> What is the optimum for our Sunbeams.
>
> Allan Ballard
> Mk1a
> Series IV Alpine
> Series 1 Alpine
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Dec 28, 2013, at 4:12 PM, "Mark Rense" <mark44124@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> > Consider these GE Nighthawk Sport H6024NHS 7" sealed beams, they put out
> > twice the light on low beam over the old incandescents and are only 35
> watts
> > per lamp. They are low enough of a draw you can use them as DRL (daylight
> > running lamps) for additional visibility even running the generator. The
> > high beams are 65 watts and throw quite a nice pattern.
> >
> > On sale now at Amazon:
> >
> >
>
> http://www.amazon.com/GE-H6024NHS-Nighthawk-Automotive-Headlight/dp/B0017ODW
> > 1C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388263695&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+H6024NHS
> >
> > Be forewarned, the classic sealed beam will completely disappear in a
> couple
> > years, if ANYONE needs headlights you better buy some now and stash them
> > away.
> >
> > Be very wary of buying old non-sealed lamp shells such as the P700 or
> > Hella/Cibie types, as the reflective coating inside decays rapidly and
> you
> > wind up loosing much of the light output. This is a fundamental problem
> with
> > this type of forward lighting, which is why the DOT outlawed them back in
> > the '50's. A sealed beam always gives you a fresh reflector with every
> new
> > lamp.
> >
> > Bugz - 32 years in the Automotive/Halogen lighting industry
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: MWood24020@aol.com
> > Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 1:49 PM
> > To: tigers@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Tigers] Headlights
> >
> > Other options? I'm thinking a more modern Hella (or equivalent) halogen
> > might function better?
> >
> > TIA
> > Mike
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aballard@ix.netcom.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd@gmail.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 16:24:49 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <20131228043517.35A1B403EA@autox.team.net>
	<42F6E19B-8115-486B-99E0-5CE6C81F62F2@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 15:23:16 -0800
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hummm..., I just looked shortly after this email arrived and the car is 
still there (56 bids - $34,100) 3:20PM, Saturday Dec, 28th).  I checked the 
Registry and it shows up as having been noted in August,1984 in Southfield, 
MI.  There is no TAC as the ebay ad stated.  While there may be explanations 
for the questionable aspects, it seems wise to make notice of them.  And, if 
someone in the know can verify the car then all the better for the buyers 
piece of mind.

> Whoops, eBay ad has been removed. Either he sold the car, or possibly the 
> owner is on this list and has been keeping up with all this scrutiny?
>
> Cullen
> TAC 840
>
> Sent from my iPhone.
>
>> On Dec 27, 2013, at 10:32 PM, jay.laifman@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> All,
>>
>> Yes, I know full well that is an Alpine box. I should have put a smilie 
>> on my post!  That was always a pet peeve of my dad's.
>>
>> I'd point out that while I do believe someone with a Mk 1 Tiger could 
>> decide to move their fuel pump, and then build a battery box where the 
>> Alpine had it, if someone did that, there is no way that it would look 
>> aged and original like it does in that picture - painted faded red.
>>
>> I also thought it was funny how the seller seemed to suggest it being a 
>> novel idea.
>>
>> And, yes, I could also see that if someone did move the battery out of 
>> the trunk, it would make sense to prop up the spare tire like an Alpine. 
>> It really makes for more room.
>>
>> As to the heat on the battery, in most cars I've seen, the battery is 
>> forward of the engine.  So air flow from even the fan will keep heat 
>> moving away from the radiator.  But to have the heat of the pipe going 
>> straight up to the battery seems more extreme.  But the honorable Dr. 
>> makes a good point. On the other hand, we do know that heat there causes 
>> fuel pump problems.
>>
>> I can see the larger fender supports.  I figure if there was a Tiger used 
>> for creating this car, they'd cut out the transmission cover and weld it 
>> in - bringing the spark plug hole with. So do those look like original 
>> rivets?  :-)
>>
>> ------Original Message------
>> From: Thomas Witt
>> Sender: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
>> To: tigers@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger for sale
>> Sent: Dec 27, 2013 7:19 PM
>>
>>>>> Here is an interesting idea.<<<
>> Jay,
>>  Are you being facetious??? The reason I ask is because the presence of a
>> battery box is a question mark for a non-authentic Tiger.  It is hard to
>> tell what is under the trunk mat, but there again the spare tire location
>> causes me to ponder.  Then there is the "through the frame holes were
>> bypassed." And, I'm struggling to tell if the  frame has been reinforced
>> with all new suspension" means the bypass holes aren't there (anymore)???
>> Odd that they would reinforced be on a "rust free" Tiger.  Just 
>> saying....
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>
>>> Here is an interesting idea.  When this guy rebuilt the Tiger, he made a
>>> battery box behind the passenger seat.  I wonder how the battery does 
>>> with
>>> the
>>> heat of the exhaust below.
>>>
>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281232832701
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 17:49:17 2013
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 16:47:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Roger Nyberg <nyberg.roger@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] EBAY TIGER
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

With all the afore mentioned inconsistencies it would appear that rear end collision damage was repaired with a Series V Alpine rear clip. That being said wouldn't this car be eligible for a TAC authentation certificate and/or sticker?
ROGER
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 18:30:20 2013
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	<AA57296098DD43DBB12DA8453B8D0702@optiplex3301>
From: Cullen1972 <cmccann1972@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 19:28:54 -0600
To: Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net>
Cc: "<tigers@autox.team.net>" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, your right Tom, I have no idea why I saw that. I confused myself.

Sent from my iPhone.

> On Dec 28, 2013, at 5:23 PM, "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Hummm..., I just looked shortly after this email arrived and the car is
still there (56 bids - $34,100) 3:20PM, Saturday Dec, 28th).  I checked the
Registry and it shows up as having been noted in August,1984 in Southfield,
MI.  There is no TAC as the ebay ad stated.  While there may be explanations
for the questionable aspects, it seems wise to make notice of them.  And, if
someone in the know can verify the car then all the better for the buyers
piece of mind.
>
>> Whoops, eBay ad has been removed. Either he sold the car, or possibly the
owner is on this list and has been keeping up with all this scrutiny?
>>
>> Cullen
>> TAC 840
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone.
>>
>>> On Dec 27, 2013, at 10:32 PM, jay.laifman@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>> All,
>>>
>>> Yes, I know full well that is an Alpine box. I should have put a smilie on
my post!  That was always a pet peeve of my dad's.
>>>
>>> I'd point out that while I do believe someone with a Mk 1 Tiger could
decide to move their fuel pump, and then build a battery box where the Alpine
had it, if someone did that, there is no way that it would look aged and
original like it does in that picture - painted faded red.
>>>
>>> I also thought it was funny how the seller seemed to suggest it being a
novel idea.
>>>
>>> And, yes, I could also see that if someone did move the battery out of the
trunk, it would make sense to prop up the spare tire like an Alpine. It really
makes for more room.
>>>
>>> As to the heat on the battery, in most cars I've seen, the battery is
forward of the engine.  So air flow from even the fan will keep heat moving
away from the radiator.  But to have the heat of the pipe going straight up to
the battery seems more extreme.  But the honorable Dr. makes a good point. On
the other hand, we do know that heat there causes fuel pump problems.
>>>
>>> I can see the larger fender supports.  I figure if there was a Tiger used
for creating this car, they'd cut out the transmission cover and weld it in -
bringing the spark plug hole with. So do those look like original rivets?
:-)
>>>
>>> ------Original Message------
>>> From: Thomas Witt
>>> Sender: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
>>> To: tigers@autox.team.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger for sale
>>> Sent: Dec 27, 2013 7:19 PM
>>>
>>>>>> Here is an interesting idea.<<<
>>> Jay,
>>> Are you being facetious??? The reason I ask is because the presence of a
>>> battery box is a question mark for a non-authentic Tiger.  It is hard to
>>> tell what is under the trunk mat, but there again the spare tire location
>>> causes me to ponder.  Then there is the "through the frame holes were
>>> bypassed." And, I'm struggling to tell if the  frame has been reinforced
>>> with all new suspension" means the bypass holes aren't there (anymore)???
>>> Odd that they would reinforced be on a "rust free" Tiger.  Just
saying....
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>>
>>>> Here is an interesting idea.  When this guy rebuilt the Tiger, he made a
>>>> battery box behind the passenger seat.  I wonder how the battery does
with
>>>> the
>>>> heat of the exhaust below.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281232832701
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cmccann1972@gmail.com
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 17:56:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Stephen Waybright <gswaybright@yahoo.com>
To: Roger Nyberg <nyberg.roger@yahoo.com>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] EBAY TIGER
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Due to the battery box and absence of exhaust cut outs in the X frame, I'm
guessing it's more likely an entire Alpine tub and rear clip, with only a
Tiger front clip.

 
Stephen Waybright



________________________________
From: Roger Nyberg <nyberg.roger@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net"
<tigers@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 6:47 PM
Subject:
[Tigers] EBAY TIGER
 

With all the afore mentioned inconsistencies it would
appear that rear end collision damage was repaired with a Series V Alpine rear
clip. That being said wouldn't this car be eligible for a TAC authentation
certificate and/or sticker?
ROGER
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 20:26:40 2013
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From: "Peter Sziklai" <peter@tcltd.pro>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 19:25:03 -0800
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Subject: [Tigers] New to Site  Activity
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello to all;

 

I live in Vancouver BC and own and operate a mid size collision repair
facility. While we no longer do much at all with specialty cars I do have
some background and know my way around the sublet scene locally and farther
afield. I have one friend who has asked no three times in the past 6 years
to find another older car for him and the last one was delivered a few weeks
ago. As you can guess it is a Tiger, as why else would I be here.
Specifically it is a very nice driver grade MK II, which was bought in
America ( from a simple posting on this site) and imported to Canada at the
beginning of December. We drove the car the last 30 miles and it does work
well.

 

I will be starting a round of upgrades in the next few weeks and from what I
have seen of this site there are a lot of friendly and helpful people. I
will try not to ask lazy questions, but as many of you have already been
there it does not make a lot of sense for me to start from scratch with each
project.

 

Best regards and Happy New Year to everyone.

 

Peter
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 10:08:28 2013
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 09:07:58 -0800
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
Organization: Mayfield Motorsport
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Le Mans Alpine....
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I was admiring a frontal photo of the Le Mans Alpine the other day, 
especially the head light treatment. Pretty swoopy. Has anyone used that 
concept on a newer car such as out Tigers?  Or even later Alpines?  It 
looks like a good aero mod for me to make to the LSR car in the future.  
Free HP!  Where or who might I contact to get a cardboard template of 
the outline of the basic shape of the cut out in the fender?  Any 
information to help me shape the look of the mod and where to cut metal 
would be good. Of course, I would not use a light there but simply a 
metal piece that is that shape, welded into place.

Help? Comments?

larry

oh, and all ya'll have a great and safe New Years Day!


-- 
______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 11:25:50 2013
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From: Rollright@aol.com
Full-name: Rollright
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 13:24:11 -0500 (EST)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1388341452;
	bh=UtB4Efsoo9BfnMdAnmRNP+/emQ4HCQFvAFjcudSd10k=;
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Subject: [Tigers] Tonneau doesn't quite fit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,
 
Over the years, the tonneau that I have has shrunk a bit. 
Using it jeopardizes the male fasteners on the body and actually just
won't quite fit.  Worst spot is the pair on either side of the zipper  under
the windshield.
 
Are there any techniques anyone knows to "stretch" it just a bit?
It seems so wasteful (and expensive) to buy a new one...
 
Happy New Year to all,
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
TAC  0763
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 14:18:51 2013
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From: "Stu Brennan" <stubrennan@comcast.net>
To: <Rollright@aol.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <d09d9.7ebc46e3.3ff1c2cb@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 16:14:20 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tonneau doesn't quite fit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

My tonneau is original, at least it was with the car when I got it in '77. 
The technique I use is quite simple, but it takes a bit of time.

Attach the tonneau at the front, then wait a bit.  How long?  For me, its 
until the first really warm sunny day in the spring.  Then I can stretch it 
enough to get the rear snaps in.

Most times I use it, though, I don't attach it at the front.  The door ones 
do enough of a job to hold it in place.

Stu

-----Original Message----- 
From: Rollright@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 1:24 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tonneau doesn't quite fit

Hello,

Over the years, the tonneau that I have has shrunk a bit.
Using it jeopardizes the male fasteners on the body and actually just
won't quite fit.  Worst spot is the pair on either side of the zipper  under
the windshield.

Are there any techniques anyone knows to "stretch" it just a bit?
It seems so wasteful (and expensive) to buy a new one...

Happy New Year to all,

Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A
382002083
LRXFE
TAC  0763
_______________________________________________

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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 15:34:43 2013
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From: "George" <gleibert185@comcast.net>
To: "'Stu Brennan'" <stubrennan@comcast.net>, <Rollright@aol.com>,
	<tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <d09d9.7ebc46e3.3ff1c2cb@aol.com>
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 17:33:02 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tonneau doesn't quite fit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Gently pulling while playing a warm hair dryer across the material should
let it stretch enough to be able to snap the fasteners.  Don't get the hair
dryer too close to the material but after warming it up, it will stretch.

George 

382000283LRXFE

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Stu Brennan
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 4:14 PM
To: Rollright@aol.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tonneau doesn't quite fit

My tonneau is original, at least it was with the car when I got it in '77. 
The technique I use is quite simple, but it takes a bit of time.

Attach the tonneau at the front, then wait a bit.  How long?  For me, its
until the first really warm sunny day in the spring.  Then I can stretch it
enough to get the rear snaps in.

Most times I use it, though, I don't attach it at the front.  The door ones
do enough of a job to hold it in place.

Stu

-----Original Message-----
From: Rollright@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 1:24 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tonneau doesn't quite fit

Hello,

Over the years, the tonneau that I have has shrunk a bit.
Using it jeopardizes the male fasteners on the body and actually just won't
quite fit.  Worst spot is the pair on either side of the zipper  under the
windshield.

Are there any techniques anyone knows to "stretch" it just a bit?
It seems so wasteful (and expensive) to buy a new one...

Happy New Year to all,

Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A
382002083
LRXFE
TAC  0763
_______________________________________________

tigers@autox.team.net

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/stubrennan@comcast.net
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 15:50:22 2013
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 18:48:41 -0400
From: Chris Thompson <chris@cthompson.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Rollright@aol.com, tigers@autox.team.net
References: <d09d9.7ebc46e3.3ff1c2cb@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tonneau doesn't quite fit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

What you need to do is get the fabric to "relax" a bit.  I've read you 
can do this by soaking it in a solution of water and a little bit of 
baby shampoo or fabric softener.  And then steam will work, too - if you 
don't have a steamer (what - you don't have a steamer?) then your 
favorite iron would probably do....

Chris
B382000331

On 12/29/2013 2:24 PM, Rollright@aol.com wrote:
> Hello,
>   
> Over the years, the tonneau that I have has shrunk a bit.
> Using it jeopardizes the male fasteners on the body and actually just
> won't quite fit.  Worst spot is the pair on either side of the zipper  under
> the windshield.
>   
> Are there any techniques anyone knows to "stretch" it just a bit?
> It seems so wasteful (and expensive) to buy a new one...
>   
> Happy New Year to all,
>   
> Jim  Armstrong
> Mk 1A
> 382002083
> LRXFE
> TAC  0763
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/chris@cthompson.net
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 18:40:28 -0800
From: Alex Haugland <ahauglan@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Original Underbody finish?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello! I'm currently taking my Tiger apart to be stripped back to bare 
metal and repainted in the original colour.  As I'm looking at bringing 
the car back to as original a condition as possible I'm curious as to 
how the underside of the Tiger was originally finished.  My car 
currently has an old rubberized undercoating that has become brittle and 
is starting to flake off, so it will be stripped off as well.  Was this 
the original finish of the underside or was it painted body colour, 
black, or some other colour?  The engine and gearbox will be coming out 
tomorrow along with the exhaust, fuel lines, brake lines, and suspension 
and the car will be ready to go to the paint shop.

--Alex Haugland
Eugene, Oregon
B9470334LRXFE
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 20:29:53 2013
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References: <d09d9.7ebc46e3.3ff1c2cb@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 22:28:13 -0500
From: "michael@michaelshortt.com" <michael@michaelshortt.com>
To: Rollright@aol.com
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tonneau doesn't quite fit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

I made a tight fitting cover on a TR6 fit by soaking it in hot water (
washing machine ) towel drying it off quickly and fitting it to the car and
letting to dry on there.

Michael Shortt
On Dec 29, 2013 10:23 PM, <Rollright@aol.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Over the years, the tonneau that I have has shrunk a bit.
> Using it jeopardizes the male fasteners on the body and actually just
> won't quite fit.  Worst spot is the pair on either side of the zipper
>  under
> the windshield.
>
> Are there any techniques anyone knows to "stretch" it just a bit?
> It seems so wasteful (and expensive) to buy a new one...
>
> Happy New Year to all,
>
> Jim  Armstrong
> Mk 1A
> 382002083
> LRXFE
> TAC  0763
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael@michaelshortt.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 09:09:12 2013
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From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
To: "'Alex Haugland'" <ahauglan@gmail.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 11:00:12 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac8FCZnJSBvNJr3lQxOtK7/DS5l2wAAbf7Yg
	engine=2.50.10432:5.11.87,1.0.14,0.0.0000
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original Underbody finish?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Alex
	I'm not the expert on the underside but I believe as you peel the
undercoat off you will find body color paint then red oxide primer.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alex Haugland
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 9:40 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Original Underbody finish?


Hello! I'm currently taking my Tiger apart to be stripped back to bare 
metal and repainted in the original colour.  As I'm looking at bringing 
the car back to as original a condition as possible I'm curious as to 
how the underside of the Tiger was originally finished.  My car 
currently has an old rubberized undercoating that has become brittle and 
is starting to flake off, so it will be stripped off as well.  Was this 
the original finish of the underside or was it painted body colour, 
black, or some other colour?  The engine and gearbox will be coming out 
tomorrow along with the exhaust, fuel lines, brake lines, and suspension 
and the car will be ready to go to the paint shop.

--Alex Haugland
Eugene, Oregon
B9470334LRXFE
_______________________________________________

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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6956 - Release Date: 12/28/13
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 09:49:03 2013
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From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <0948E39D1BCE46788EC6F688F3ADB6D2@ronpc1>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 08:47:01 -0800
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original Underbody finish?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Alex,
 As best I recall Ron is correct. "Been there, done that" nearly 14 years 
ago.  Though I might add that I had considerable rust.  Some surface rust, 
some more than surface.  I prepped for POR-15 which requires removal to bare 
metal.  My recollection about the red oxide primer and body color paint is 
that I wondered if I was doing the right thing by removing it.  But, as I 
stated there was considerable rust so ... .  I don't doubt that the 
application of primer and was rather spotty given the areas of rust and the 
chore of removing paint and primer.

Anyway, it won't take much to scrape off some undercoat and see the layers 
beneath - just in case my memory is as failing as my wife indicates it is. 
:-)

Tom


> Alex
> I'm not the expert on the underside but I believe as you peel the
> undercoat off you will find body color paint then red oxide primer.
>
> Ron Fraser
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 13:17:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Derek Daily <dtdaily@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Original Undercoating
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Quite a bit of discussion and findings here...
http://www.catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?t=1033&highlight=undercoat


In
my case, the car has red oxide, with undercoating, then some body color
overspray inside fenders.  Which seems most typical for the Tigers, while the
Alpines and some Tigers may differ.
 
Derek Daily 
dtdaily@yahoo.com
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 15:23:33 2013
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From: Rollright@aol.com
Full-name: Rollright
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 17:18:25 -0500 (EST)
To: tigers@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tonneau fitment tips
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Hello,
 
Thanks to all that responded to my query about stretching the  tonneau.
 
Many good ideas: mostly warm day, steam, hot water and  patience
 
Happy New Year!
 
Jim Armstrong
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	Mon, 30 Dec 2013 17:37:47 -0600 (CST)
From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend@verizon.net>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <1388278038.17794.YahooMailNeo@web122503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<1388282216.43209.YahooMailNeo@web121904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 15:37:50 -0800
Subject: Re: [Tigers] EBAY TIGER
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

The auction was suppose to end today (not sure what time).  However, when I 
went to look (3:30 PM pacific time) the car wasn't showing up. I checked the 
auction section (Ebay Motors, Cars & Trucks, Sunbeam Tiger).  I also checked 
"sold Items," and "Completed Items" and it wasn't showing there either. 
Anyone know anything??? 
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 18:53:12 -0500
From: Jim D'Amelio <jimdamelio@cox.net>
To: Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net>, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] EBAY TIGER
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

It sold for 36,100.11 to someone with 52 feedbacks. I can't get it to show up in the STOA TAC database. Why is the JAL tag riveted on? It's a pretty car, but too many items point to it being an Algar. Even if it is TAC'ed, I wouldn't spent that kind of money and have to keep explaining all those Alpine bits.



Sent from Samsung tablet

-------- Original message --------
>From Thomas Witt <atwittsend@verizon.net> 
Date: 12/30/2013  6:37 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To tigers@autox.team.net 
Subject Re: [Tigers] EBAY TIGER 
 
The auction was suppose to end today (not sure what time).B  However, when I 
went to look (3:30 PM pacific time) the car wasn't showing up. I checked the 
auction section (Ebay Motors, Cars & Trucks, Sunbeam Tiger).B  I also checked 
"sold Items," and "Completed Items" and it wasn't showing there either. 
Anyone know anything??? 
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 04:06:49 -0800 (PST)
From: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
To: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] eBay Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

A lot of comment has followed the coverage of the latest eBay Tiger, but it doesn't seem as though anyone commenting from our list has actually seen the car. All we know from the photos is that this car has been modified in ways that cast doubt on whether it's a genuine Tiger, to some folks. As pricing these days goes for Tigers, $36K seems to be at the bottom of the range, and if this car really is a Tiger, at the least the new owner bought it right. At the worst, the new owner knew it was an Alger and reasoned that they didn't care-it was close enough and affordable enough.

As for it being TAC'd, it would be nice to learn what a TAC team thought of the car, but that won't happen until the new owner asks a local team to look at it for certification purposes. TAC isn't going to start that process on its own.

Rande Bellman
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 10:47:40 2013
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From: MWood24020@aol.com
Full-name: MWood24020
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 12:45:23 -0500 (EST)
To: mark44124@gmail.com, tigers@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: Re: [Tigers] Headlights
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Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the detailed response. 
 
I really like the "period correct" look of the PL700, but it seems possible 
 to pick up performance with a more modern design. I've also heard that QC 
on the  reproductions can be somewhat hit/miss?
 
Mike
 
 
In a message dated 12/28/2013 1:12:15 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
mark44124@gmail.com writes:

Mike,
Consider these GE Nighthawk Sport H6024NHS 7" sealed  beams, they put out
twice the light on low beam over the old incandescents  and are only 35 
watts
per lamp. They are low enough of a draw you can use  them as DRL (daylight
running lamps) for additional visibility even running  the generator. The
high beams are 65 watts and throw quite a nice  pattern.

On sale now at  Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/GE-H6024NHS-Nighthawk-Automotive-Headlight/dp/B0017ODW
1C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388263695&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+H6024NHS

Be  forewarned, the classic sealed beam will completely disappear in a  
couple
years, if ANYONE needs headlights you better buy some now and stash  them
away.

Be very wary of buying old non-sealed lamp shells such as  the P700 or
Hella/Cibie types, as the reflective coating inside decays  rapidly and you
wind up loosing much of the light output. This is a  fundamental problem 
with
this type of forward lighting, which is why the  DOT outlawed them back in
the '50's. A sealed beam always gives you a fresh  reflector with every new
lamp.

Bugz - 32 years in the  Automotive/Halogen lighting industry


-----Original  Message-----
From: MWood24020@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013  1:49 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers]  Headlights

Other options? I'm thinking a more modern Hella (or  equivalent) halogen  
might function  better?

TIA
Mike
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 12:57:21 -0500
From: Jeffery Randall <jefferyrandall@gmail.com>
To: snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com>
Cc: "tigers@autox.team.net" <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] eBay Tiger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

AMEN !


On Tue, Dec 31, 2013 at 7:06 AM, snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com> wrote:

> A lot of comment has followed the coverage of the latest eBay Tiger, but
> it doesn't seem as though anyone commenting from our list has actually seen
> the car. All we know from the photos is that this car has been modified in
> ways that cast doubt on whether it's a genuine Tiger, to some folks. As
> pricing these days goes for Tigers, $36K seems to be at the bottom of the
> range, and if this car really is a Tiger, at the least the new owner bought
> it right. At the worst, the new owner knew it was an Alger and reasoned
> that they didn't care-it was close enough and affordable enough.
>
> As for it being TAC'd, it would be nice to learn what a TAC team thought
> of the car, but that won't happen until the new owner asks a local team to
> look at it for certification purposes. TAC isn't going to start that
> process on its own.
>
> Rande Bellman
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall@gmail.com
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From: "H. B. Elam" <harryb@elams.org>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 16:12:28 -0500
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Demister hoses
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

After having received them years ago from SS, I tried to install the driver
side hose today while under the dash on another project. Found that the hose
size is identical to both the windshield vent and the 90 degree rubber at the
box, about 1 3/8". So I wondered how they connect. Consulting my Rootes master
parts list I found that S1 & S2 Alpines had sleeves at these connections,
while S3 and later have a different part numbers for the hoses but no sleeves.
Could it be possible that my car was build with old parts or is there some
other way to connect these.
Any thoughts appreciated.

Harry Elam
B382000471
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 18:39:33 2013
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From: "Wally Menke" <walmenke@bigpond.net.au>
To: <owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
References: <ba129.24219df0.3ff07731@aol.com>
	<8D0DF3C8EB2D4DF492CA03095BD555C9@delld630>
	<F2BAA133-AC57-46F9-B5DD-D6F01DA6C53A@ix.netcom.com>
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Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 11:14:21 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac8EHKDGX53Jb92/SaeKEjGgFJPBAgCZyK+A
Content-Language: en-au
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Owain

My first car in 1973 was a 1960 VW Beatle with 6V electrics. If you want to
know about bad head lights at night and in the rain, this is as challenging
as it gets.


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Owain Lloyd
Sent: Sunday, 29 December 2013 9:32 AM
To: Allan Ballard
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Headlights

Personally, I hate driving at night so I use ultra bright xenon H4 bulbs to
make sure I can see. I got them in a period yellow/white colour rather than
the more usual blueish tint, but they provide stacks of light and only draw
55W.  Short of full on HIDs, they were the best I found.

Real period lights bring me to a complete standstill in the rain at night.

It's a pretty subjective topic to touch on :) On Dec 28, 2013 10:16 PM,
"Allan Ballard" <aballard@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
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From tigers-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 22:38:57 2013
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Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2014 00:27:01 -0500
To: "Wally Menke" <walmenke@bigpond.net.au>,<owain.lloyd@gmail.com>
From: Marc James Small <marcsmall@comcast.net>
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Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Headlights
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At 07:14 PM 12/31/2013, Wally Menke wrote:
 >Hi Owain
 >
 >My first car in 1973 was a 1960 VW Beatle with 6V electrics. If you want to
 >know about bad head lights at night and in the rain, this is as challenging
 >as it gets.

I had a number of 6v VW's over the years, the
first in 1970.  I would replace the 6v generator
with a 12v and then install a relay between the
generator output and the fuse box.  Worked fine
for me!  Of course, you had to replace all of
lightbulbs and the windshield wiper motor, but otherwise it worked just fine.

I learned to drive on a 6v 1960 VW ragtop in San
Francisco and driving a car with 6v headlamps
through a peasoup fog taught me a lot about defensive driving!

Marc


msmall@aya.yale.edu
Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!
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