From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 17 20:57:33 2012
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:57:13 -0500
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Subject: [TR] TR4A - Advance Created Noise
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All,

I need some help and advice for an issue that has resurfaced after installing
a freshly rebuilt dizzy.

When the mechanical advance kicks in (I disconnected the vacuum advance)
around 2200 rpm, I hear a very noticeable buzzing/rattling noise.
This not only happens when advanced "up" (low to high RPM), but also when
stepping "down" (high to low RPM).
However, the engine suffers no performance loss, and there appear to be no
other symptoms.

This was happening straight away after I got the car on the road last
September, with a brand new pertronix dizzy.
When the rotor from it broke, I sent it back to Pertronix, and dropped in my
original Lucas 25D, and the sound went away.
I had the Lucas rebuilt, put it back in, and the sound is back.

Certainly this can't be normal, so something must be amiss.
Any suggestions?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 12:35:19 2012
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 14:28:52 -0400
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Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
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Just started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom
and see who comes up with the winning diagnosis.

Thought it was a broken spring in the master cylinder and it's not.

Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor before engaging. Rear brakes are
adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on the brake handle to get the car
to hold firm.

opened up the master cylinder and the spring is intact and I dont see any
scoring on the bore. Since it's out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
it really needs it.

What else could it be?

Thanks

Chris

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 12:54:04 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
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Chris, there is a lot of lost motion in the linkage. The clevis pins can wear as well as the holes they go thru on the pedal box as well as the Master Cylinder itself. By the time that lost motion gets to your foot on the pedal it can be significant. Some folks have welded up the holes and re-drilled them. So check the pins for wear.
JVV
---- Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote: 
> Just started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom
> and see who comes up with the winning diagnosis.
> 
> Thought it was a broken spring in the master cylinder and it's not.
> 
> Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor before engaging. Rear brakes are
> adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on the brake handle to get the car
> to hold firm.
> 
> opened up the master cylinder and the spring is intact and I dont see any
> scoring on the bore. Since it's out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
> it really needs it.
> 
> What else could it be?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Chris
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 13:11:29 2012
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From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
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Subject: [TR] Classic Car Prices
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     Is it just me or have classic car prices peaked again? It seems like 2 or 3 
years ago I posted something to the list about how some Morgans had become 
available for under $10,000 and some Lotus Elan +2 driver's were dipping under 
$10K again. Now looking at bringatrailer.com or the Hemmings E-newletter I am 
shocked and dismayed by the asking prices of barn finds and restoration 
projects. Italian cars seem to be especially hyped. Morris Minor Travelers 
(little woody wagons) seem to be heading towards $20K for good ones. Porsche 
356's are ridiculous as are earlier 911's. Even old VW bugs seem to be going up. 
Maybe it is just inflation.
     I recently looked at a series 2 Jaguar E-type coupe for $10K. It had been 
rear-ended and poorly repaired (the whole shell was tweaked) and I passed.
     It seems to me that a TR3 or MGB is still the most bang for the buck out 
there.
     FWIW - miscellaneous ramblings from my desk at work.

     Bill in Tehachapi

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From: John Young <jeyoung_2@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
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In addition to lost motion in the linkage, check the end play in the
crankshaft. (thrust washers).
The clutch has to push the crank forward to the
limit before it can begin to realease the clutch.
Easy measurement to make
with a dial gauge on a magnetic holder.

John Young NASS# 528
Indiana
'78
Spitfire
'66 Spitfire
'59 TR3A (being repaired after 37 yrs ownership)

From:
Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 2:28 PM
Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle

Just
started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom
and see
who comes up with the winning diagnosis.

Thought it was a broken spring in
the master cylinder and it's not.

Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor
before engaging. Rear brakes are
adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on
the brake handle to get the car
to hold firm.

opened up the master cylinder
and the spring is intact and I dont see any
scoring on the bore. Since it's
out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
it really needs it.

What else
could it be?

Thanks

Chris

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 14:10:25 2012
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:02:13 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
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I forgot to ask. Does it pump up or is it half pedal all of the time? Half pedal standing still or while driving? A loose wheel bearing can cause pad knockback on the front disc's requiring a lot of pedal before contacting the rotor. Would happen while driving not always standing still since you'd have applied the brakes to stop your motion.
JVV
---- John Young <jeyoung_2@yahoo.com> wrote: 
> In addition to lost motion in the linkage, check the end play in the
> crankshaft. (thrust washers).
> The clutch has to push the crank forward to the
> limit before it can begin to realease the clutch.
> Easy measurement to make
> with a dial gauge on a magnetic holder.
> 
> John Young NASS# 528
> Indiana
> '78
> Spitfire
> '66 Spitfire
> '59 TR3A (being repaired after 37 yrs ownership)
> 
> From:
> Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
> To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 2:28 PM
> Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
> 
> Just
> started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom
> and see
> who comes up with the winning diagnosis.
> 
> Thought it was a broken spring in
> the master cylinder and it's not.
> 
> Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor
> before engaging. Rear brakes are
> adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on
> the brake handle to get the car
> to hold firm.
> 
> opened up the master cylinder
> and the spring is intact and I dont see any
> scoring on the bore. Since it's
> out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
> it really needs it.
> 
> What else
> could it be?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Chris

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 14:11:30 2012
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From: "Joseph Laurito" <trglory@verizon.net>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Classic Car Prices
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Triumphs had a bump about 20 years ago when every old rust bucket was going
on a container ship bound for Belgium. Since then, prices have been flat.
This is a very good thing if you want to buy one .... not so good when you
want to sell. Stand your ground now and your great-grandchildren can smile
when the price passes $100K. Of course, by then that will buy you a tank of
gas.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 3:12 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Classic Car Prices

     Is it just me or have classic car prices peaked again? It seems like 2
or 3 years ago I posted something to the list about how some Morgans had
become available for under $10,000 and some Lotus Elan +2 driver's were
dipping under $10K again. Now looking at bringatrailer.com or the Hemmings
E-newletter I am shocked and dismayed by the asking prices of barn finds and
restoration projects. Italian cars seem to be especially hyped. Morris Minor
Travelers (little woody wagons) seem to be heading towards $20K for good
ones. Porsche 356's are ridiculous as are earlier 911's. Even old VW bugs
seem to be going up. 
Maybe it is just inflation.
     I recently looked at a series 2 Jaguar E-type coupe for $10K. It had
been rear-ended and poorly repaired (the whole shell was tweaked) and I
passed.
     It seems to me that a TR3 or MGB is still the most bang for the buck
out there.
     FWIW - miscellaneous ramblings from my desk at work.

     Bill in Tehachapi

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 14:26:10 2012
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:17:22 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Classic Car Prices
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By then there won't be any gas.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com


On 4/18/2012 4:11 PM, Joseph Laurito wrote:
> Triumphs had a bump about 20 years ago when every old rust bucket was going
> on a container ship bound for Belgium. Since then, prices have been flat.
> This is a very good thing if you want to buy one .... not so good when you
> want to sell. Stand your ground now and your great-grandchildren can smile
> when the price passes $100K. Of course, by then that will buy you a tank of
> gas.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 3:12 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] Classic Car Prices
>
>       Is it just me or have classic car prices peaked again? It seems like 2
> or 3 years ago I posted something to the list about how some Morgans had
> become available for under $10,000 and some Lotus Elan +2 driver's were
> dipping under $10K again. Now looking at bringatrailer.com or the Hemmings
> E-newletter I am shocked and dismayed by the asking prices of barn finds and
> restoration projects. Italian cars seem to be especially hyped. Morris Minor
> Travelers (little woody wagons) seem to be heading towards $20K for good
> ones. Porsche 356's are ridiculous as are earlier 911's. Even old VW bugs
> seem to be going up.
> Maybe it is just inflation.
>       I recently looked at a series 2 Jaguar E-type coupe for $10K. It had
> been rear-ended and poorly repaired (the whole shell was tweaked) and I
> passed.
>       It seems to me that a TR3 or MGB is still the most bang for the buck
> out there.
>       FWIW - miscellaneous ramblings from my desk at work.
>
>       Bill in Tehachapi
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Subject: Re: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
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I would re-bleed the brakes just to eliminate that possibility but since you
have the M/C off you will be doing this next.

Check the adjustment on the rod from the M/C to be sure you are getting all
the travel you need from the pedal.  After you have re-built the M/C and
bled the system, maybe lengthen it out just a little and see if it helps.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 1:29 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle

Just started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom and
see who comes up with the winning diagnosis.

Thought it was a broken spring in the master cylinder and it's not.

Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor before engaging. Rear brakes are
adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on the brake handle to get the car
to hold firm.

opened up the master cylinder and the spring is intact and I dont see any
scoring on the bore. Since it's out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
it really needs it.

What else could it be?

Thanks

Chris

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 18 23:29:47 2012
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Subject: [TR] TR-6 Hardtop to give away
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I have a Snugtop TR-6 top to give away. No place to store it. I'm not into
shipping it so you'll have to be local enough to Pasadena to pick it up
yourself. It's in decent shape. Email me at drewssix@gmail.com. Thanks, Drew

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 03:11:30 2012
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From: David Ljung Madison <team.net@daveola.com>
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Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 02:05:39 -0700
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Subject: [TR] TR3A is finally back home
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After over two years at various body shops waiting to get repaired 
(after separate, multiple hit-and-run accidents), my TR3A is finally home!

The body looks beautiful, and will hopefully stay that way (though 
the last body/paint job seemed to make it a target, yeesh), but after
sitting for so long and after being pulled apart, the poor thing
has a number of issues:

1) A rod is knocking in the lower end and the engine will need overhaul
   replacement soon. :(
2) Front end is in bad shape (as it was before the body work) - much 
   needs replacing.
3) Some leaks in the cooling system to fix
4) Needs a tuneup

Oh well.

Anyone have suggestions for engine overhaul and/or replacement?

Not to mention that I need to start looking into the rack and pinion
conversion.

Unfortunately I have so little time for such projects right now, but
at least she's home and running!


Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
--------- It's not whether you win or lose.  It's whether you win ---------

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From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
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sorry guys.
i spaced out during the discussions on who will be at the mitty and what the party arangemnts are!!!! 
beer/girls/gambling...?
is there an autox meet?
Frank 

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Subject: Re: [TR] the Mitty
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ill be flying southwest airlines in an easterly direction from California.
ill find you all.
Frank
 

________________________________
 From: "ptegler@verizon.net" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: yellowtr3@yahoo.com 
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] the Mitty
  

..stop by the GRM booth. In the VIP parking area you'll see a couple of us (with Spitfires) there
my FIS6, Mike Paserchia's all oroginal one owner '79 Spit from up above NYC (the one recently written up in Hemmings)
and Paul Geithner's beautiful BRG Spit (among others) 
all of us are coming down from the upper mid-atlantic region
Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com

Apr 19, 2012 12:58:08 PM, yellowtr3@yahoo.com wrote:

sorry guys.
>i spaced out during the discussions on who will be at the mitty and what the party arangemnts are!!!! 
>beer/girls/gambling...?
>is there an autox meet?
>Frank 

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List,
I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post that there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash sometimes but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I only have LED's in the rear.
Thanks,
JVV

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Subject: [TR] FRANK FISHER at the MITTY
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 Frank,

Come to the TRIUMPH PADDOCK. I will have something for you. I didnt know you
were coming.



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4@cs.com

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I'm drawing a blank, too, but Jim Thompson is the guy's name.

Just look for an electronic flasher at the parts store.

Dave

In a message dated 4/19/2012 1:04:19 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jerryvv@roadrunner.com writes: 
> List,
> I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the 
> LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher 
> to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post 
> that there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash 
> sometimes but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I only have 
> LED's in the rear.

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From: Doug <dougfr2@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 15:07:14 -0400
To: "<jerryvv@roadrunner.com>" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
Cc: "triumphs: autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] LED lights
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I have been getting my LED lighting for my TR6 from www.litezupp.com.  Look
them up.  They have quality light bulbs for both 1156 and 1157 based bulbs.
Also, they will work with you on any issues will the appropriate electronic
flasher.

Doug Fraser
Ocala, FL
1969 TR6


On Apr 19, 2012, at 2:00 PM, <jerryvv@roadrunner.com> wrote:

> List,
> I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the
LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher to
use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post that
there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash sometimes
but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I only have LED's
in the rear.
> Thanks,
> JVV
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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List, 
 
Thanks to all who responded. I have the number and one is on it's way to me via 
NAPA 
 
For reference it's a EL-13L-1 
 
JVV

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 14:40:07 2012
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From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>, "'triumphs: autox.team.net'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Try http://www.litezupp.com/ 

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jerryvv@roadrunner.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:01 PM
To: triumphs: autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] LED lights

List,
I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the
LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher
to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post that
there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash sometimes
but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I only have
LED's in the rear.
Thanks,
JVV

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 17:04:28 2012
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Guy,
Someone else reported a similar noise, which turned out to be part-throttle
detonation caused by too much spark advance for the engine/fuel combination.

I'd try backing off the initial timing by about 10 degrees or so (by turning
the dizzy, not with the vernier), and see what effect that has.  The engine
won't run very well, but just keep it running with your toe and it won't
hurt anything.  If the noise disappears, then the issue is detonation.

-- Randall 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 18:55:58 2012
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www.litezupp.com

jim and chris

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:06 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] LED lights

I'm drawing a blank, too, but Jim Thompson is the guy's name.

Just look for an electronic flasher at the parts store.

Dave

In a message dated 4/19/2012 1:04:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
jerryvv@roadrunner.com writes:
> List,
> I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the
> LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher
> to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post
> that there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash
> sometimes but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I
> only have
> LED's in the rear. 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 19:48:37 2012
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You may want to ask about the little flasher harness, too.  It makes the inside indicator work properly.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <Dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] LED lights
Date: Thu, Apr 19, 2012 19:45


www.litezupp.com

jim and chris

-----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:06 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] LED lights

I'm drawing a blank, too, but Jim Thompson is the guy's name.

Just look for an electronic flasher at the parts store.

Dave

In a message dated 4/19/2012 1:04:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
jerryvv@roadrunner.com writes:
> List,
> I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the
> LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher
> to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post
> that there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash
> sometimes but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I
> only have
> LED's in the rear. 
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Subject: Re: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
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Update. Cleaned the master cylinder. It was, for lack of a better term,
gunky. Gelatinous gobs in the works. Nothing rigid but gunk.

Front brake pads are in need of replacement. One is quite close to being
gone.

It looks like time for a wholesale brake refurb.  Been wanting to put those
Morgan rear brake cylinders in anyway ...
On Apr 18, 2012 6:11 PM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> I would re-bleed the brakes just to eliminate that possibility but since
> you
> have the M/C off you will be doing this next.
>
> Check the adjustment on the rod from the M/C to be sure you are getting all
> the travel you need from the pedal.  After you have re-built the M/C and
> bled the system, maybe lengthen it out just a little and see if it helps.
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
> next 11 steps?"
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 1:29 PM
> To: list Triumph
> Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
>
> Just started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom
> and
> see who comes up with the winning diagnosis.
>
> Thought it was a broken spring in the master cylinder and it's not.
>
> Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor before engaging. Rear brakes are
> adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on the brake handle to get the car
> to hold firm.
>
> opened up the master cylinder and the spring is intact and I dont see any
> scoring on the bore. Since it's out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
> it really needs it.
>
> What else could it be?
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 19 20:19:51 2012
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That gunk is your rubber seals!  Time for a rebuild!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
Date: Thu, Apr 19, 2012 20:56


Update. Cleaned the master cylinder. It was, for lack of a better term,
gunky. Gelatinous gobs in the works. Nothing rigid but gunk.

Front brake pads are in need of replacement. One is quite close to being
gone.

It looks like time for a wholesale brake refurb.  Been wanting to put those
Morgan rear brake cylinders in anyway ...
On Apr 18, 2012 6:11 PM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> I would re-bleed the brakes just to eliminate that possibility but since
> you
> have the M/C off you will be doing this next.
>
> Check the adjustment on the rod from the M/C to be sure you are getting all
> the travel you need from the pedal.  After you have re-built the M/C and
> bled the system, maybe lengthen it out just a little and see if it helps.
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
> next 11 steps?"
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 1:29 PM
> To: list Triumph
> Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
>
> Just started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom
> and
> see who comes up with the winning diagnosis.
>
> Thought it was a broken spring in the master cylinder and it's not.
>
> Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor before engaging. Rear brakes are
> adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on the brake handle to get the car
> to hold firm.
>
> opened up the master cylinder and the spring is intact and I dont see any
> scoring on the bore. Since it's out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
> it really needs it.
>
> What else could it be?
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 19:36:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
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I'm slowly working my way through installing wiring harness (tr-3) and have
received great help already from the list.  I have one concern left, and
that's when I finish and want to connect the battery and test the system.  I'm
afraid one little mistake I might have made could burn up the new harness or
even a small part of it.
Is there a safe way to test portions of it first or
does one just turn on the power and wait for possible smoke?  I've basically
been very careful about transferring the new wires to the old guages/switches
on the dash section and also using the old harness as a model to connect the
new wires to control box/fuse box and other parts; along with diligent
reviewing of a wiring diagram every step of the way.
I'm fairly confident
things will work out ok at the time of switching on but just wondered if
others who've "been there" have any advice on using the electrical system for
the first time.

thanks

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Gary Nafziger'" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] more harness
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Instead of the battery, hook up a 2amp charger to the system.  This will
give you enough power to check the smaller lights and other items.  Of
course you can't start it and the horns will just burp.

Another safety valve is to put in low amperage fuses 5 or 10 amp to start
with while you check things out.  Again, you might blow a fuse with your
headlights, but it should be let everything else run and still blow before
you cook the wires. 

Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 9:37 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] more harness

I'm slowly working my way through installing wiring harness (tr-3) and have
received great help already from the list.  I have one concern left, and
that's when I finish and want to connect the battery and test the system.
I'm afraid one little mistake I might have made could burn up the new
harness or even a small part of it.
Is there a safe way to test portions of it first or does one just turn on
the power and wait for possible smoke?  I've basically been very careful
about transferring the new wires to the old guages/switches on the dash
section and also using the old harness as a model to connect the new wires
to control box/fuse box and other parts; along with diligent reviewing of a
wiring diagram every step of the way.
I'm fairly confident
things will work out ok at the time of switching on but just wondered if
others who've "been there" have any advice on using the electrical system
for the first time.

thanks

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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In a message dated 4/19/2012 7:45:45 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dave@ranteer.com writes: 
> www.litezupp.com
> 
That's it.  I've bought mine from Jim directly while at a gathering such as 
VTR.  I guess they picked a catchy name so that we would all remember it.  
Didn't work on me but it worked for the rest of you guys.  Guess I'll go 
back to my rockin' chair.

Dave

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Subject: Re: [TR] more harness
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The trick I used when I checked out the TR3 is I connected each circuit to 
the battery via a spare headlamp.  If it is a short to ground the bulb will 
shine with full brightness.  If it is working properly the bulb will glow a 
little, a fair amount or not at all depending on the load.  

Leave out the fuses and connect the lead from the bulb to the load side of 
the fuse block and start testing away.  If you get a full bright headlamp 
start disconnecting lights or other loads.  But you can check your brake and 
tail lights just fine.  Also the other lights on the car.  For best results 
check one circuit at a time.

If you have a volt meter (which I highly recommend if you are going to work 
on any electrical system) you can check the voltage on the circuit.  If it 
is anything greater than a volt you won't burn up the harness when connect 
it up with the fuse.

Wiper motor: when I checked my wiper motor it moved briefly and stalled and 
the headlamp went bright.  But the fact that the motor moved at all told me 
it was OK but a voltmeter reading would have confirmed this if there was 
any doubt.

Dave

In a message dated 4/19/2012 9:36:52 PM Central Daylight Time, 
nafzigerg@yahoo.com writes: 
> I'm slowly working my way through installing wiring harness (tr-3) and 
> have
> received great help already from the list.  I have one concern left, and
> that's when I finish and want to connect the battery and test the system.  
> I'm
> afraid one little mistake I might have made could burn up the new harness 
> or
> even a small part of it.
> Is there a safe way to test portions of it first or
> does one just turn on the power and wait for possible smoke?  I've 
> basically
> been very careful about transferring the new wires to the old 
> guages/switches
> on the dash section and also using the old harness as a model to connect 
> the
> new wires to control box/fuse box and other parts; along with diligent
> reviewing of a wiring diagram every step of the way.
> I'm fairly confident
> things will work out ok at the time of switching on but just wondered if
> others who've "been there" have any advice on using the electrical system 
> for
> the first time.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 20 09:50:35 2012
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Subject: [TR] TR2/3 SU Carbs
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Hello List:
Need some of the collective wisdom of the List on this one. I have H4 SU 
carbs on my '2 and struggling with the common problems: leaking from the 
jet bodies, float levels, excessive richness, stiff choke actuation, 
etc. I installed kits in the winter & checked the throttle shafts and 
they were surprisingly a good fit.
I am contemplating having the carbs 'professionally' rebuilt to correct 
some of these issues and forking out the 4-5 hundred for the job. But 
before I commit, I am wondering if these early SU's can really be 
'fixed'. Given the design of the exposed jet SU can they really be made 
to be leak free? Even after a professional rebuild, will these carbs be 
good running and relatively leak free?
Just getting tired of the constant smell of gas in the shop and 
struggling with the carbs.
Thanks for any insight and advice on this one.
Angelo Graham

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From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] LED lights
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Lights and Flasher will work properly if you replace only the rear lamps.
The load from the regular bulbs at the front (which to me were not as
necessary) is sufficient to activate the flasher/indicator.


Highly recommend them.  I still haven't completely installed my 3rd brake lamp
but when I do I'll post some photos similar to the backup light before and
after Litezupps....
http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/?action
=view$t=LiteZuppBeforeAfter.jpg

Carl



On 04/19/12, spook01@comcast.net wrote:

You may want to ask about the little flasher harness, too. It makes the inside
indicator work properly.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <Dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] LED lights
Date: Thu, Apr 19, 2012 19:45


www.litezupp.com

jim and chris

-----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:06 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] LED lights

I'm drawing a blank, too, but Jim Thompson is the guy's name.

Just look for an electronic flasher at the parts store.

Dave

In a message dated 4/19/2012 1:04:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
jerryvv@roadrunner.com writes:
> List,
> I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the
> LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher
> to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post
> that there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash
> sometimes but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I
> only have
> LED's in the rear.
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 20 10:23:54 2012
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From: Robert Hendricks <rbhendricks@me.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 10:23:36 -0600
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Subject: [TR] need door handle
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Hello all. Im new to this mailing list. I hope this is an appropriate request. 

After a two year frame off complete restoration - the tub is at the paint shop and I discover that a piece in one of my doors is broken.  I am looking for the left exterior door handle with mechanism for a 1972 Triumph Spitfire.  A little plastic gizmo inside the mechanism is broken.  I am hoping to purchase a used handle so I can retrieve the broken piece from it.

Thanks

Bob

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The inner indicator light did not work for me on the TR4 in spite of my replacing ONLY the rear lamps with LED's (and replacing the Lucas flasher with the recommend electronic flasher).
Litezupp recommended their wiring harness addition.
Once installed, the problem was solved; so you may need the harness even if you retain the old front incandescent bulbs.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <spook01@comcast.net>, <dave@ranteer.com>, <Dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] LED lights
Date: Fri, Apr 20, 2012 11:04


Lights and Flasher will work properly if you replace only the rear lamps.   The load from the regular bulbs at the front (which to me were not as necessary) is sufficient to activate the flasher/indicator.
 

Highly recommend them.  I still haven't completely installed my 3rd brake lamp but when I do I'll post some photos similar to the backup light before and after Litezupps....  http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/?action=viewo?=t=LiteZuppBeforeAfter.jpg 
 
Carl
 


On 04/19/12, spook01@comcast.net wrote:

You may want to ask about the little flasher harness, too. It makes the inside indicator work properly.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <Dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] LED lights
Date: Thu, Apr 19, 2012 19:45


www.litezupp.com

jim and chris

-----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:06 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] LED lights

I'm drawing a blank, too, but Jim Thompson is the guy's name.

Just look for an electronic flasher at the parts store.

Dave

In a message dated 4/19/2012 1:04:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
jerryvv@roadrunner.com writes:
> List,
> I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the
> LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher
> to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post
> that there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash
> sometimes but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I
> only have
> LED's in the rear. 
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Bob,

Welcome to the list, odd parts, advice and sources are what we do best.
Wish I could help but I don't have Spit.

All the best,
Bill



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Hendricks
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 11:24 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] need door handle

Hello all. Im new to this mailing list. I hope this is an appropriate
request. 

After a two year frame off complete restoration - the tub is at the paint
shop and I discover that a piece in one of my doors is broken.  I am looking
for the left exterior door handle with mechanism for a 1972 Triumph
Spitfire.  A little plastic gizmo inside the mechanism is broken.  I am
hoping to purchase a used handle so I can retrieve the broken piece from it.

Thanks

Bob

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 20 11:44:23 2012
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:34:52 -0500
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Subject: [TR] TR4A - Is this noise detonation (link provided to listen)
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All,

In order to help you help me, I made a recording of the engine with a quality
microphone and posted to YouTube (link below).
In addition to the normal tappet and valve noise we should hear in the engine,
I have this mysterious "rattle" that seems to correspond to the advance
kicking on or off.
Randall suggested it might be detonation, but I have no idea what the hell
detonation sounds like.
Could you please watch/listen to the video and discern what the noise is?
(Detonation, other)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rf2qpLHv9IM


The following comments are related to the video:

After start-up, the rattle is spotty when idling
When I move to fast idle, it greatly diminishes
When I give it real throttle, the rattle is super loud and present
When I come down it diminishes, but suddenly spikes (second 32), which I
believe is when the advance cuts out





Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

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From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [TR] Standard-Triumph faults on TV
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Hi, Everyone
 
There's a new TV programme hitting the UK airwaves called
"Celebrity Antiques Roadshow." I've watched a few of them, because the
'celebrities' are driving around different parts of the UK in a variety of old
Brit hardware. So far, we've had a Mk 1 2 litre Vitesse (seems to be in almost
every show) a Healey 3000, MG Midget (with Federal bumpers and a Spitfire lump
(so it's sadly not an MG) a Jowett Javelin convertible and another I forget.
The celebrities last night were Honor Blackman and Brit Eklund. Honor is
'wearing' very well for her 70+ years and Brit must surely have had a few nips
and tucks in the right places?
Perhaps typically, much of the series shooting
was done last year and they seemingly had EVERY day raining. I think the
Vitesse drivers have been warned about the excellent wet weather handling of
the Mk 1 2 litre as it wasn't swung sprung or rotoflexed - and it's being
driven far two slowly on the twisting wet roads. Maybe the car is still on its
original cross-plies? The rev counter needs an overhaul as well. Surging
needle between 2000 and 5000.
Anyway, last night was laugh time when Brit
Eklund got stuck in the passenger seat and couldn't get out. Lots of useless
pushing and pulling on the defective door handle by the embarrassed driver and
eventually she had to emerge in fairly unladylike fashion (in a trouser
suit) by climbing over the lowered soft top. I'm amazed she didn't fall out
earlier because the door striker plate had almost fallen off!
You just can't
beat indifferent British workmanship and design lasting in perpetuity for
enjoyment 45 years down the track.
 
Jonmac

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> Lights and Flasher will work properly if you replace only the rear
> lamps.
> The load from the regular bulbs at the front (which to me were not as
> necessary) is sufficient to activate the flasher/indicator.

True for some flashers, not all of them.

-- Randall 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 20 13:22:18 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Is this noise detonation
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Guy,


That doesn't sound like detonation to me...it sounds more like timing chain
slap, or maybe a shot waterpump or even loose fan blades.  I understand
you've replaced the timing chain and tensioner, so I dunno.  That's just
what it sounds like to me.

Randall Z



Message: 8
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:34:52 -0500
From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Is this noise detonation (link provided to
       listen)
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All,

In order to help you help me, I made a recording of the engine with a
quality
microphone and posted to YouTube (link below).
In addition to the normal tappet and valve noise we should hear in the
engine,
I have this mysterious "rattle" that seems to correspond to the advance
kicking on or off.
Randall suggested it might be detonation, but I have no idea what the hell
detonation sounds like.
Could you please watch/listen to the video and discern what the noise is?
(Detonation, other)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rf2qpLHv9IM


The following comments are related to the video:

After start-up, the rattle is spotty when idling
When I move to fast idle, it greatly diminishes
When I give it real throttle, the rattle is super loud and present
When I come down it diminishes, but suddenly spikes (second 32), which I
believe is when the advance cuts out





Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 20 13:38:05 2012
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> Given the design of the exposed jet SU can they really be made
> to be leak free?

I believe so, yes.  However, they do require attention from time to time to
keep them that way.  My experience (with H6 that are basically identical in
the float and jet area) is that the original type seals only last about a
year before they start to leak.

Whether a "professional" rebuild will achieve that, I do not know.  I've
helped a local TR3B owner fix his carbs after they were professionally
rebuilt; the jets were not centered properly and the locking nuts had been
left loose.  My opinion, if you want it done right, do it yourself.

> leaking from the jet bodies,

Moss motors sells "improved" jet seals, which have worked very well for me.
It is also important IMO to polish the surface of the jet where the seal
rides.  This both reduces wear and improves the choke action.  I have also
seen replacement jets where the jet itself would leak!

> float levels

Use the standard type float valves (not Grose Jets), adjust them by the
book, check that the float doesn't have fuel inside and that the fuel
pressure is not too high.  If you are getting overflows, replace all the
soft lines and consider adding a (non-original) filter just before the carb
inlet to catch any crud that makes it past the screen and sediment bowl in
the pump.

> excessive richness

If this is at idle, it may be an indication that the jets and/or needles are
worn (from being run with the centering not quite right).  This is a
somewhat dangerous situation, as leaning out the idle will cause the cruise
mixture to also be lean; which can lead to overheating and even severe
engine damage.  (Which I once heard described as a "cloud of engine parts
chasing me down the highway.")

> stiff choke actuation,

As above, polish the surface of the jets until they shine.  Toothpaste and
your fingers will work fine (of course you have to clean out all traces of
toothpaste afterwards).  I also advocate replacing the springs both inside
the jets and the choke return springs.  They frequently get tweaked by
either old age, or previous owners trying to improve things.  Check that the
cable itself works freely and is the proper type (stranded center, not
solid).  Hook the linkage up following the photo in Practical Hints (or the
diagram in "More BS on TRs").  Don't worry that the pivots are
loosey-goosey, they are supposed to be that way.

-- Randall

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> The trick I used when I checked out the TR3 is I connected each circuit
> to the battery via a spare headlamp.

I even save old headlight bulbs for this sort of thing.

> Leave out the fuses

But first start with the headlamp between the battery connector and the
battery.  There is a lot of the TR3 harness that is not protected by fuses
(including the entire headlight circuit).

-- Randall 

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For my TR3 I used an electronic flasher.  On my 911 I put a resister in line
with the lights (there is no electronic flasher that would fit it.

John.


On  20 Apr, 2012, at 3:07 PM, Randall wrote:

>> Lights and Flasher will work properly if you replace only the rear
>> lamps.
>> The load from the regular bulbs at the front (which to me were not as
>> necessary) is sufficient to activate the flasher/indicator.
>
> True for some flashers, not all of them.
>
> -- Randall
>
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John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
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Subject: [TR] Rostyle Wheel Covers
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List,
 
Does anyone know of a source for very nice rostyle wheel covers?  I'm  
looking for a set of four for a customer with a TR250 that we're doing a "little 
 bit better than" daily driver restoration.  They don't need to be concours 
 but relatively dent free with decent paint and stainless would be great!   
(I wish I kept my rostyle covers from my 1969 TR6 38 years ago when I sold 
the  car....to me (back then) they were just "wheel covers":)
 
Thanks,
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U

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From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Rostyle Wheel Covers
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Chip
 
You couldn't have come to a better place. I've got no less than 13 of
the damned things - all in immaculate condition. I'd be more than happy to
make a set available but unfortunately you'll have to reduce your wheel size
to 14 inch as these came off a Triumph Big Six

Cheers, Jonmac
>________________________________
> From: "Chip19474@aol.com"
<Chip19474@aol.com>
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
>Sent: Friday, 20 April
2012, 22:37
>Subject: [TR] Rostyle Wheel Covers
>  
>List,
>
>Does anyone know
of a source for very nice rostyle wheel covers?  I'm  
>looking for a set of
four for a customer with a TR250 that we're doing a "little 
>bit better than"
daily driver restoration.  They don't need to be concours 
>but relatively
dent free with decent paint and stainless would be great!  
>(I wish I kept my
rostyle covers from my 1969 TR6 38 years ago when I sold 
>the  car....to me
(back then) they were just "wheel covers":)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chip Krout
>Delaware
Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
>Skippack,  PA
>1976 TR6 CF57822U
>
>**
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From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi@roadrunner.com>
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Subject: [TR] Complete TR4 engine, gearbox, and separate O/D gearbox FS
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I hope I'm not stepping out of bounds by posting this to this forum, but I'm
looking to sell some TR4 components. I have a COMPLETE (carbs, generator,
EVERYTHING) TR4 engine and attached gearbox. Since this is out of a '63 TR4,
I'm thinking it's 3 syncro unit. The second bit is an O/D gearbox out of a
TR4, although the year is unknown. It looks like the solenoid is missing,
and the solenoid mounting plate is broken where the solenoid mounts - both
of these pieces are readily available from Moss. Last pieces is an
aftermarket hardtop needing some TLC but in decent shape.

Obviously I can't easily ship these, but if you're in the Pac West, we could
make arrangements to meet somewhere (I'm in Coeur d' Alene, ID). I'm happy
to send pics or answer questions if you're interested. Send an email to
Binduni@gmail.com and let's start a discussion.

I'm looking to get $750 for the engine/gearbox package, and $550 for the O/D
gearbox (given it needs a couple of pieces to be complete). Hardtop can go
for $100.

Brian

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 21 09:09:06 2012
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Subject: [TR] Engine rattle
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I had a noise similar to that on the tr3. Turned out the fan was loose do to
disintegrated rubber washers. The holes were worn oblong and it was rattling
like crazy.

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A engine rattles
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Guy,
Could have something to do with distributor slotted drive shaft.. or problem
with advance weights . Or like someone said, fan mounts.. You might isolate
the source of rattle better with a 'hearing tube' (length of small diameter
tube or garden hose) to hone in on origin of noise while motor running
(amazingly helpful). Or one of those engine stethescopes (with a metal rod
attachment) to touch against different areas on running motor (carefully!) to
hone in on exact location. Could be something as simple as deteriorated engine
torque buffer arm rubber (mine was reduced to a rattly steel washer left on
the bolt).
Good luck,
Carl

'63 TR4 since '74


In order to help you help me, I made a recording of the engine with a
quality
microphone and posted to YouTube (link below).
In addition to the normal tappet and valve noise we should hear in the
engine,
I have this mysterious "rattle" that seems to correspond to the advance
kicking on or off.
Randall suggested it might be detonation, but I have no idea what the hell
detonation sounds like.
Could you please watch/listen to the video and discern what the noise is?
(Detonation, other)

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From: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
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I bought new carpet for my TR3A when Moss had its last sale.  Now that I have
some time, I pulled the OLD (my guess original) stuff out.  (Actually not bad
for 50+ year old carpet.)

It Moss kit came without any instructions (e.g., how to install the snaps),
but I can phone them tomorrow & ask that they fax or email them to me
(assuming they exist).

My question is what would the list suggest to hold the vertical pieces (e.g.,
the sides of the footwell) in place?   Glue (what kind), velcro,  screws,
snaps, ...???

Any sage advice and/or tips will be appreciated.

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

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From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts@charter.net>
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	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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I don't know about TR3,  but the TR6 footwell carpet was glued to a fiber 
type board and then screw to the wall.

How was the one you took out attached?

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Wise" <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
To: "car discussion Sports Triumph" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 10:09 AM
Subject: [TR] carpet installation question


>I bought new carpet for my TR3A when Moss had its last sale.  Now that I 
>have
> some time, I pulled the OLD (my guess original) stuff out.  (Actually not 
> bad
> for 50+ year old carpet.)
>
> It Moss kit came without any instructions (e.g., how to install the 
> snaps),
> but I can phone them tomorrow & ask that they fax or email them to me
> (assuming they exist).
>
> My question is what would the list suggest to hold the vertical pieces 
> (e.g.,
> the sides of the footwell) in place?   Glue (what kind), velcro,  screws,
> snaps, ...???
>
> Any sage advice and/or tips will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Ormond Beach, FL
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts@charter.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 08:52:17 2012
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From: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
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To: Al Salvatore <tr6parts@charter.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] carpet installation question
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My TR3A had rubber floor mats from the seats forward on both sides, they were
held up with 2 spring clips on each side.  The small carpet piece covering the
fire wall over the tunnel was glued in place with some 50 year old glue.  All
I can say is it is now brown. :-)

John


On  22 Apr, 2012, at 10:35 AM, Al Salvatore wrote:

> I don't know about TR3,  but the TR6 footwell carpet was glued to a fiber
type board and then screw to the wall.
>
> How was the one you took out attached?
>
> Al
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Wise" <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
> To: "car discussion Sports Triumph" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 10:09 AM
> Subject: [TR] carpet installation question
>
>
>> I bought new carpet for my TR3A when Moss had its last sale.  Now that I
have
>> some time, I pulled the OLD (my guess original) stuff out.  (Actually not
bad
>> for 50+ year old carpet.)
>>
>> It Moss kit came without any instructions (e.g., how to install the
snaps),
>> but I can phone them tomorrow & ask that they fax or email them to me
>> (assuming they exist).
>>
>> My question is what would the list suggest to hold the vertical pieces
(e.g.,
>> the sides of the footwell) in place?   Glue (what kind), velcro,  screws,
>> snaps, ...???
>>
>> Any sage advice and/or tips will be appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> John
>>
>> John A. Wise
>> Ormond Beach, FL
>>
>> 1960 Triumph TR3A
>> Commission No: TS80422L
>> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
>> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>>
>> 1977 Porsche 911S
>> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts@charter.net
>
>

John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 09:08:04 2012
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You guys may remember I bought an addco sway bar for the front of a early (ct3xx) TR4.
It did not fit.
Basically, the problem is that the bar's side arms are too short to allow the bar to be mounted high enough on the front bumper supports to allow the bar to be level, and allow the links to be vertical.
I was contacted by Addco, and told that if I would send info they would make a bar that works.
I was happy to help and sent photos and measurements to the individual who contacted me.
Unfortunately, since then, silence.
These bars do not fit the early cars correctly, and use of the bar as supplied stress the bumper supports due to the incorrect design.  Just a word to the wise, especially if you are buying off eBay.
Further updates if I hear anything.
Ray 


Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 09:08:50 2012
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From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] carpet installation question
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John,
On all of the TR-3s I've seen, all had the carpet glued directly to to 
metal, no backing boards or screws were used.
I used spray contact cement to hold the carpet onto the metal.  Need the 
heavy duty stuff like 3M high strength 90.  You can also brush normal 
contact cement on both sides.  The brush on stuff comes in a water base 
formula which is much less fumes issue, but I've found that it doesn't hold 
quite as well.  Also make sure everything is clean.  The glue will not 
adhere to dirt or dust.  If you have fresh paint on the metal surface it is 
best to let it cure completely before glueing the carpet in place.  The 
solvents in the glue will lift fresh paint.
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Wise" <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
To: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts@charter.net>
Cc: "car discussion Sports Triumph" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] carpet installation question


> My TR3A had rubber floor mats from the seats forward on both sides, they 
> were
> held up with 2 spring clips on each side.  The small carpet piece covering 
> the
> fire wall over the tunnel was glued in place with some 50 year old glue. 
> All
> I can say is it is now brown. :-)
>
> John

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From: Larry Brouder <lbrouder@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [TR] GT6+ Body Removal
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I have completed stripping the body and it's time for it to go on the
rotisserie. All body bolts are out, shocks are disconnected. Is it recommended
to just jack it up and lift it off? Any stress points to be concerned about?
Also, tag shows a paint code for royal blue, but body has a ton of high-gloss
exterior white (wheel wells inside, under side vents, etc.). Did they use a
high-gloss white to prime (which seems unlikely) or does this car have an
incorrect tag? The white is in places none of the many repaints would have
touched.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 10:42:51 2012
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
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There are no obvious holes so I was going to glue - but Velcro may be a good
alternative so that they can be removed if ever necessary.  I am thinking
that the hook side could be put on the metal and be positioned so that it
mates with the carpet that is rolled over around the sides...  

Thanks for the suggestion.

Carl



1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO 
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
getting closer.  2012 is the year!

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> I was happy to help and sent photos and measurements to the 
> individual who contacted me.
> Unfortunately, since then, silence.

When I had a similar incident with them, many years ago, it took about 3
weeks for the modified parts to show up on my doorstep.  No word from them
before or after, but the parts fit and I was happy.

> Basically, the problem is that the bar's side arms are too 
> short to allow the bar to be mounted high enough on the front 
> bumper supports to allow the bar to be level, and allow the 
> links to be vertical.

So, how far off is it?  10-15 degrees isn't going to hurt anything, IMO.
Mine was slightly off-level, with the car at normal ride height; and still
worked quite well.

After all, it doesn't stay level anyway.  The angles change every time you
hit a bump.

-- Randall  

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I like Carl's suggestion of Velcro though I have recently use a similar
product that I think is a major improvement on the velcro concept:

http://www.3m.com/product/information/Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener.html

Looks a bit like Velcro but really (audibly) snaps into place and makes a
very strong & firm connection.  Can even hold quite a bit of weight.  I
found some at Ace in 3" lengths though not all Ace's have them.

Geo

On Sun, Apr 22, 2012 at 9:32 AM, Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:

> There are no obvious holes so I was going to glue - but Velcro may be a
> good
> alternative so that they can be removed if ever necessary...

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 16:03:03 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] GT6+ Body Removal
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My bet is that someone had two GT6's and one valid title, if the car is
ex-US. Maybe this happens in the UK too, but you guys keep the same plates
for the life of the car, right? 

 

Do you have a Heritage certificate for the car?  Is the body number correct
for that commission number?

 

I once went to look at a TR250 for sale, and it had a Commission number that
began with CT. At some point someone had a TR250 with no title and a TR4
parts car, I suppose.

 

Good Luck, Tom

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 19:43:28 2012
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Wonder if it just the pin that holds the planet gear shaft in place.
On the MGB I worked on the other day that was just a basic 3/16"
roll pin.

mjb.

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Thanks Tom,
B 
It's a U.S. car (my email is confusing-I'm in the U.S.), with
the window surround and side tag showing KC57392. The paint # shows as 56
(Royal Blue) and interior color code is 27. Is a Heritage Certificate
equivalent toB  Carfax and/or UK specific?
B 
Thanks,
LB
________________________________
From: Tomislav Marincic
<tomislav.marincic@earthlink.net>
To: lbrouder@yahoo.co.uk 
Cc:
triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, 22 April 2012, 17:59
Subject: RE: GT6+
Body Removal


My bet is that someone had two GT6bs and one valid title, if
the car is ex-US. Maybe this happens in the UK too, but you guys keep the same
plates for the life of the car, right? 
B 
Do you have a Heritage certificate
for the car?B  Is the body number correct for that commission number?
B 
I
once went to look at a TR250 for sale, and it had a Commission number that
began with CT. At some point someone had a TR250 with no title and a TR4 parts
car, I suppose.
B 
Good Luck, Tom

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RE:" . Is a Heritage Certificate equivalent to  Carfax and/or UK specific?"

 

Larry,

 

Not exactly. A Heritage Certificate is a copy of the factory records that
Triumph had for your car, including original color, engine/body numbers,
date built, date "despatched", destination distributor, and sometimes key
codes. 

 

For example, my TR6 left the factory with a white top ("hood") and Damson
paint. It was built on 20 June 1970, but not shipped until 11 November, so
it featured authentic English corrosion right on the showroom floor. You can
see the actual certificate at www.triumphowners.com/735.

 

Get yours here:

http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/archive-services/

 

Cheers, Tom

CC55483L

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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 13:39:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kevin T <trkev@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [TR] Engine Rattle (third try..)
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My experience of a similar rattle was caused by the
waterpump pulley cracking
near the boss, allowing
the pulley to intermittently contact the pump
housing. 
It took some locating, until the fanbelt was removed....

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Tom Maricic wrote:
For example, my TR6 left the factory with a white top
("hood") and Damson
paint. It was built on 20 June 1970, but not shipped until
11 November, so
it featured authentic English corrosion right on the showroom
floor. 
 
Tom, for accuracy's sake, I've got an aerial picture of the very
much 'open air' showroom at RAF Honeybourne where all the cars were stored
prior to shipment :) It's only about five miles from where I live now,
periodically flooded then and still floods now - so that was where the rust
started. Used to go there from time to time on Saturday mornings in the
1960's to earn some overtime looking for cars that had somehow got 'lost' or
robbed of bits. I've also written an article for the UK clubs about that place
- with pix - if anyone knows a club newsletter editor looking for empty pages
to fill. No charge for the material supply, just a copyright acknowledgement,
so email me off-list if there's any interest out there?
 
Jonmac

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Absolutely,

Our club (BACLV - British Auto Club of Las Vegas) newsletter (The Spanner)
would love to have it and would provide proper acknowledgement.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

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Wow - in less than 10 minutes, four people have replied with a 'yes, please.'
Delighted to help gents and thanks for such a rapid response. Certainly faster
than a Lucas starter in firing up a reluctant Herald :) 
There's only one
little thing. 
I've got a busy week away from home from tomorrow onwards, it's
an early start and bedtime in the UK is now-now. What I plan to do is to send
off the material in one hit over the coming weekend if that's OK with
everyone? It'll help me if those of you who may yet reply can use the subject
heading I've used in this post? Makes things easier when trolling through the
In-box.

Cheers all, John


http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 23 20:08:06 2012
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Subject: [TR] TR4 and TR4A for sale
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Listed in the Albuquerque paper as TR4 Parting out.  I went to see them today.
The TR4 (CT26776) has been outdoors for a long time and it would be a labor of
love to it bring back from its current sad state.  The bonnet and boot may be
useful; I doubt any of the fenders could be salvaged.  Usual rot in the sills.
The owner told me that the engine had been rebuilt when he bought the car, but
he only had the previous ownerbs word on that.  The best parts may be the
switch plinth, which actually looked usable, and the capping around the
cockpit, which was also decent.

The TR4A (CTC59578) has been stored indoors, and other than a ratty black
paint job, looked to be in decent shape, but not ready to be driven away.  I
didnbt find rust in the usual places.

No overdrive in either.  I didnbt ask him about titles.  The owner was at
least 5 beers past any rational discussion.  I got the impression that he just
wanted them gone and would likely take an offer for one or preferably both.

The owner has no internet access.  Ibd be happy to facilitate a deal and
will give you his name and phone number if you are interested.  He just asked
that I not post his number but I can reply with it to interested parties.  My
only interest is seeing at least one car go to a better home than the junkman.
Ibd buy the TR4A but have no place to store it.

Cliff

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 John wrote:


>Certainly faster
>than a Lucas starter in firing up a reluctant Herald :)



 Hello; someone called? :)


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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That makes sense-mine must have spent an extra week or two on the lot during
monsoon. My TR6 was perfect and dry, but the GT6 is in line for a lot of new
metal. Thanks, gents.

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Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
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Got a few hindered miles on the re-built transmission now, all went real
good in the beginning just a little stiff but I guess that was to be
expected.  
 
But now, I cannot downshift into 2nd gear which is a real problem when
slowing down for a corner as I can't go on to first and third it too tall.
Up shifting from a standing start works most of the time but any small
mis-step and 2nd gear is denied me.
 
During the re-build everything looked real good and all we did was replace
the syncros and found one detent spring & ball missing.
 
Suggestions?
 
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
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> During the re-build everything looked real good and all we did was
> replace
> the syncros and found one detent spring & ball missing.

So all the interlock bits (two balls and a pin) are in place?

Did you measure the force to move the shift rings on the hubs?

Any chance you got some of the bad synchro rings that were making the rounds
a few years ago?

What are you using for lube?  Might be worth trying some MT-90 if you aren't
already, as it seems to really improve shift action.

-- Randall 

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Conceive of Lucas phones.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Andrew S. Mace" <zoboherald@aol.com>
To: <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] RAF Honeybourne - the open air showroom!!!
Date: Mon, Apr 23, 2012 21:47


 John wrote:


>Certainly faster
>than a Lucas starter in firing up a reluctant Herald :)



 Hello; someone called? :)


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

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What are the symptoms of the bad synchro rings?


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 12:05 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block

> During the re-build everything looked real good and all we did was
> replace the syncros and found one detent spring & ball missing.

So all the interlock bits (two balls and a pin) are in place?

Did you measure the force to move the shift rings on the hubs?

Any chance you got some of the bad synchro rings that were making the rounds a
few years ago?

What are you using for lube?  Might be worth trying some MT-90 if you aren't
already, as it seems to really improve shift action.

-- Randall

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> What are the symptoms of the bad synchro rings?

Just generally poor synchro action, AFAIK.  I was fortunate enough to avoid
the experience myself. 

-- Randall  

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I'm still trying to chase down the "tapping" noise in my rebuilt TR4 trans
with OD in my TR3 and am pulling my hair out trying to find the source.

It only occurs under load, and is directly related to engine rpm, showing up
at between 2500 and 4500 RPM

I think we have it narrowed to the OD unit, which was not rebuilt, but nobody
seems to have had any experience with an OD making this particular noise.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

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From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 16:52:33 -0500
To: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
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Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
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Syncro rings are just a few months old from TRF.  Did not measure the shift
ring pressure.  I am using Sta-Lube GL4 85-90, which is what I have used for
the past three years.

I am wondering if a fork may have slipped on the rod, we did replace the
O-rings.

The only prior complaint was some grinding downshifting to 3rd at speed.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Apr 24, 2012, at 3:43 PM, Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net> wrote:

> What are the symptoms of the bad synchro rings?
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 12:05 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
>
>> During the re-build everything looked real good and all we did was
>> replace the syncros and found one detent spring & ball missing.
>
> So all the interlock bits (two balls and a pin) are in place?
>
> Did you measure the force to move the shift rings on the hubs?
>
> Any chance you got some of the bad synchro rings that were making the rounds
a
> few years ago?
>
> What are you using for lube?  Might be worth trying some MT-90 if you
aren't
> already, as it seems to really improve shift action.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
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Here's a thought. Have you checked for the noise with the inspection cover
removed? It is the half moon shaped cover at the bottom of the bell
housing. If it is installed the wrong way around, there can be a light
interference with the bolts used to mount the ring gear onto the flywheel.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN

> I'm still trying to chase down the "tapping" noise in my rebuilt TR4 trans
> with OD in my TR3 and am pulling my hair out trying to find the source.
>
> It only occurs under load, and is directly related to engine rpm, showing
> up
> at between 2500 and 4500 RPM
>
> I think we have it narrowed to the OD unit, which was not rebuilt, but
> nobody
> seems to have had any experience with an OD making this particular noise.
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Subject: [TR] Pics from my inaugural TR2 Trip
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Please excuse the gratuitous tr2 pics.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/x06qrfs3ic8tnv2/ZQAnvSYW1U/2012%20Gathering

https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=59aaa6c6fbc78f4f&resid=59AAA6C6FBC78F4F%21350&parid=59AAA6C6FBC78F4F%21211&authkey=%21ABhTW4HFI5g0vuo

all in all it was a very good show and quite fun. We ran hotter than I'd
like on the way home, but I think there is a 195 degree Tstat in it.... so
it might not have been that big a deal.

The car did ok in the autocross - the one hard run I made did not count as
we had a timer malfunction - but I was quite happy with the run.

Still much to do - but the car is already fun!!!

Take care,

Chris

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I just put a new master cylinder and at the same time put the morgan rear
brake cylinders on the car.  I saw in this thread the use of a stick and
the seat to be the "pusher".  I had a piece of 1/4 cabinet grade plywood
2.5 inches wide and used that between the brake pedal and the steering
wheel to bleed the brakes - it accepts a good bend without breaking.  I
have a good hard pedal without an ill word to my better half!!!

Love this list!

On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 11:12 PM, Andrew S. Mace <zoboherald@aol.com> wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Jim Muller <jimmuller@rcn.com>
>
>
> I know I'm late to this conversation but I'll toss in my experience
> anyway.  I've always bled my clutch in situ, not on the bench.  In
> fact, it would be difficult to install a GT6 or Spitfire SC with the
> line attached.
>
> ==AM==
> Funny you should mention that, Jim, 'cause I did exactly that once, many
> years
> ago. I was trying to
> track down a clutch problem with an early Spitfire 4 and thought it might
> be
> related to the hydraulics.
> At the time, I had a Herald that had recently been sidelined (after contact
> with a Plymouth that ran a
> red light). I pulled the clutch master and slave out of the Herald, still
> connected to each other, and
> tried it in the Spitfire. Being basically the same architecture, it fit
> perfectly and wasn't that hard to do.
> Unfortunately, it wasn't the problem, but.... :)
>
> --Andy Mace
>
>
> triumphs@autox.team.net
>
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Hi,

I am trying to adjust the dual HS4s on my 80 Spitfire.  I adjusted the 
carbs to the recommended starting point to try to get a fresh run at 
adjusting them.

Turned the jets down 12 flats (2 turns) and then turned the throttle 
screw down 1 1/2 turns after it just came into contact with the lever.   
I noticed that the  throttle screws were not in contact with the lever 
when I started.

When I started the car it was running about 2600 rpm.  When I got it 
back down to close to 1,000 rpm, it looks like the throttle screws were 
no longer touching the levers.  Choke seems to be off, the fast idle 
screws are not touching. I rebuilt the carbs about 4 years ago.

I did not take them off, but it looks like the butterfly is closing well.

Any suggestions on what to look at, before I take the carbs off to 
inspect the butterfly more closely?

I have adjusted the valves, and timing.

Thanks,
Roger Elliott

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Roger,
Run the mixture nuts back up 1 turn(six flats). Check the linkage to be sure
it is not hanging up somewhere, then check the butterflys.

Manually reach down and be sure the jets are pulled up all the way, these
can become sticky with long periods of sitting.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 8:44 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] SU Carbs

Hi,

I am trying to adjust the dual HS4s on my 80 Spitfire.  I adjusted the carbs
to the recommended starting point to try to get a fresh run at adjusting
them.

Turned the jets down 12 flats (2 turns) and then turned the throttle 
screw down 1 1/2 turns after it just came into contact with the lever.   
I noticed that the  throttle screws were not in contact with the lever when
I started.

When I started the car it was running about 2600 rpm.  When I got it back
down to close to 1,000 rpm, it looks like the throttle screws were no longer
touching the levers.  Choke seems to be off, the fast idle screws are not
touching. I rebuilt the carbs about 4 years ago.

I did not take them off, but it looks like the butterfly is closing well.

Any suggestions on what to look at, before I take the carbs off to inspect
the butterfly more closely?

I have adjusted the valves, and timing.

Thanks,
Roger Elliott

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
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First, I apologize for bringing up a topic that has been discussed many times.
But, the alternator in my '72 TR6 needs replacement for obvious reasons. The
output is not enough at idle and the wires (I have a 5-wire connection) and it
needs replacement.  Dan Master's excellent book explains several different
wiring options in detail. He recommends to use the GM alternator. Others
recommend to use a remanufactured '78 Ford Fiesta Bosch alternator w/55A which
gives almost a bolt-on replacement. And I can use Dan's wiring schematics for
the electrical hookup. My main problem is locating the Fiesta alternator. Does
anyone have a specific source for this Bosch alternator with fan and pulley? I
spent hours trying to locate one that is remanufactured, carrying some sort of
warranty. But, I have not yet found suppliers, like AutoZone, Summit, NAPA nor
Pep Boys. I don't want to search at junk yards. Does anyone have any
recommendations?

Thanking in advance,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6

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Oddly enough, my usual sources don't list it any more.  Maybe the rebuilders
quit doing them for some reason?

However, I believe this is a Delco equivalent:
http://tinyurl.com/6rt5dkm
(As noted, you may have to move over the pulley from your Lucas)

But since you are going to have to modify your 5-wire hookup anyway, going
with a more common alternator might be the best idea.  That way you'll get a
bolted main connection (I don't trust those quick connects at high currents,
seen too many of them get hot and fail), and replacements available at any
corner FLAPS.

-- Randall  

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From: ADRIAN DIX-DYER <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
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Maybe spread your search to UK and Europe. Fiestas using the alternator
unit you require were sold by the millions over here.
Recon units sell for about the equivalent of $120ish. Ebay UK list lots and
lots of them. Shipping may be expensive.

Adrian TR4A CT64306 O (Ex Tennessee)
Wales UK

On 25 April 2012 08:25, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> Oddly enough, my usual sources don't list it any more.  Maybe the
> rebuilders
> quit doing them for some reason?
>
> However, I believe this is a Delco equivalent:
> http://tinyurl.com/6rt5dkm
> (As noted, you may have to move over the pulley from your Lucas)
>
> But since you are going to have to modify your 5-wire hookup anyway, going
> with a more common alternator might be the best idea.  That way you'll get
> a
> bolted main connection (I don't trust those quick connects at high
> currents,
> seen too many of them get hot and fail), and replacements available at any
> corner FLAPS.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 05:38:46 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] SU Carbs
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Roger,

I just spent last week adjusting my carbs; exploring the relationships between
timing, idle and mixture.
I have HS6's, but those are similar to the HS4s.

I basically had the same issue as you with the throttle screws barely touching
the plates, and the engine idling higher than it ought.
So I got the mixture set, which had a small impact on the idle, but not much,
with it still idling around 1000 rpm.
So, I retarded the timing a bit to tame the idle, but not too much to cause a
loss of power, overheating, etc.

I learned that you can retard the timing too much, and the car just will not
respond to throttle under load.
The exhaust gasses can also get very hot (because they are not burning up all
the way in the cylinder) and overheat the exhaust system.

The point is to find the correct tuning balance between timing, idle and
mixture.



On Apr 24, 2012, at 8:43 PM, Roger Elliott wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I am trying to adjust the dual HS4s on my 80 Spitfire.  I adjusted the carbs
to the recommended starting point to try to get a fresh run at adjusting
them.
>
> Turned the jets down 12 flats (2 turns) and then turned the throttle screw
down 1 1/2 turns after it just came into contact with the lever.   I noticed
that the  throttle screws were not in contact with the lever when I started.
>
> When I started the car it was running about 2600 rpm.  When I got it back
down to close to 1,000 rpm, it looks like the throttle screws were no longer
touching the levers.  Choke seems to be off, the fast idle screws are not
touching. I rebuilt the carbs about 4 years ago.
>
> I did not take them off, but it looks like the butterfly is closing well.
>
> Any suggestions on what to look at, before I take the carbs off to inspect
the butterfly more closely?
>
> I have adjusted the valves, and timing.
>
> Thanks,
> Roger Elliott
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts@charter.net>
To: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, "'Jeff Nathanson'"
	<jeffn@msystech.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
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The Delco unit looks exactly like the Bosche unit.

Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Jeff Nathanson'" <jeffn@msystech.com>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 3:25 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion


> Oddly enough, my usual sources don't list it any more.  Maybe the 
> rebuilders
> quit doing them for some reason?
>
> However, I believe this is a Delco equivalent:
> http://tinyurl.com/6rt5dkm
> (As noted, you may have to move over the pulley from your Lucas)
>
> But since you are going to have to modify your 5-wire hookup anyway, going
> with a more common alternator might be the best idea.  That way you'll get 
> a
> bolted main connection (I don't trust those quick connects at high 
> currents,
> seen too many of them get hot and fail), and replacements available at any
> corner FLAPS.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 06:11:02 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
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Jeff,

You might want to drop Triumph Rescue a email. Matt also specializes in 
wiring and they used to have the TR6 alternator project on their website.

http://www.triumphrescue.com/

I couldnt find the TR6 alternator project on their website, but an email 
might get you the information you need.

Bob

  On 04/25/2012 01:22 AM, Jeff Nathanson wrote:
> First, I apologize for bringing up a topic that has been discussed many times.
> But, the alternator in my '72 TR6 needs replacement for obvious reasons. The
> output is not enough at idle and the wires (I have a 5-wire connection) and it
> needs replacement.  Dan Master's excellent book explains several different
> wiring options in detail. He recommends to use the GM alternator. Others
> recommend to use a remanufactured '78 Ford Fiesta Bosch alternator w/55A which
> gives almost a bolt-on replacement. And I can use Dan's wiring schematics for
> the electrical hookup. My main problem is locating the Fiesta alternator. Does
> anyone have a specific source for this Bosch alternator with fan and pulley? I
> spent hours trying to locate one that is remanufactured, carrying some sort of
> warranty. But, I have not yet found suppliers, like AutoZone, Summit, NAPA nor
> Pep Boys. I don't want to search at junk yards. Does anyone have any
> recommendations?
>
> Thanking in advance,
> Jeff N.
> '72 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 15:48:00 2012
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Subject: [TR] TR6 Idle adjustment fix
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The idle on my 6 has been a bit high (10-12k) since installing Joe  
Alexander's velocity stacks (the engine likes more air at Denver's  
altitude) but when I tried to cut the idle back I realized the spring  
on the idle screws (ZS 175s) had become compressed and I couldn't let  
the screw out enough to lower the idle speed without losing the  
tension that holds it in place.

So I removed the screw and spring and stretched the spring just a bit  
(from 0.376 to 0.418 in.) and was able to get the idle to come closer  
to the 850-900 range once I could let the screw out and could still  
keep enough tension so it wouldn't rattle loose.

You'd think changing idle speed would be a simple thing but you learn  
something new everyday with these cars.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi@comcast.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 21:05:51 2012
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From: "Tom Note" <tom628@verizon.net>
To: "Jeff Nathanson" <jeffn@msystech.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
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Jeff: The Bosch alternator should be available thru Rock Auto Parts. 
(rockauto.com).
It's Bosch P/N 13107, 55A, and was available on the fiestas that had A/C. 
Price was IIRC under $60.
Usually, it will come with the pulley, but sometimes their stock does not 
have one, but it's available thru. Jegs,e.g.

Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Nathanson" <jeffn@msystech.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 1:22 AM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion


> First, I apologize for bringing up a topic that has been discussed many 
> times.
> But, the alternator in my '72 TR6 needs replacement for obvious reasons. 
> The
> output is not enough at idle and the wires (I have a 5-wire connection) 
> and it
> needs replacement.  Dan Master's excellent book explains several different
> wiring options in detail. He recommends to use the GM alternator. Others
> recommend to use a remanufactured '78 Ford Fiesta Bosch alternator w/55A 
> which
> gives almost a bolt-on replacement. And I can use Dan's wiring schematics 
> for
> the electrical hookup. My main problem is locating the Fiesta alternator. 
> Does
> anyone have a specific source for this Bosch alternator with fan and 
> pulley? I
> spent hours trying to locate one that is remanufactured, carrying some 
> sort of
> warranty. But, I have not yet found suppliers, like AutoZone, Summit, NAPA 
> nor
> Pep Boys. I don't want to search at junk yards. Does anyone have any
> recommendations?
>
> Thanking in advance,
> Jeff N.
> '72 TR6
>
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> Jeff: The Bosch alternator should be available thru Rock Auto Parts. 
> (rockauto.com).

That was the first place I looked.  They used to list it, now they don't.

-- Randall  

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<snip>
Others recommend to use a remanufactured '78 Ford Fiesta Bosch alternator
w/55A which
gives almost a bolt-on replacement. And I can use Dan's wiring schematics for
the electrical hookup. My main problem is locating the Fiesta alternator.
Does
anyone have a specific source for this Bosch alternator with fan and pulley?
I
spent hours trying to locate one that is remanufactured, carrying some sort
of
warranty. But, I have not yet found suppliers, like AutoZone, Summit, NAPA
nor
Pep Boys. I don't want to search at junk yards. Does anyone have any
recommendations?

Thanking in advance,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6

I have one under my workbench still in the box I'd sell you.  It wouldn't fit
my GT6 because of clearance problems with the bonnet strut.  FWIW I got it
from Rock Auto PN #13107.  I was saving it for my 72 TR6 when the factory
Delco gives it up.

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Idle adjustment fix
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Not for an F1 car.

In a message dated 4/25/2012 10:16:29 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mark@bradakis.com writes: 
> Bud Rolofson wrote:
> >The idle on my 6 has been a bit high (10-12k) 
> 
> Yep, 10 - 12,000 rpm is a bit high for an idle.
> 
> mjb.

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On I-75  just above Gainesville, Florida headed to Road Atlanta. Three TR6's not far behind.  Looks like beautiful weather. 
Tom
73 Stag this trip 

Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 10:00:06 -0400
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Subject: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
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The majority of the enameled globes on the original hubcaps for my TR3B had
the Triumph script in a diagonal line across the emblem, not the arched
script most commonly seen in enameled and painted globes.

Here's an image of some of the globes from my car:
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sfZDwS2/0/L/i-sfZDwS2-L.jpg

Standard-Triumph were nothing if not resourceful.  This style of globe had
to be used in a number of applications.  Is it just my limited experience,
or is this not at all common on sidescreen TRs?  Is it more common on some
other S-T model?

Thanks in advance,

Don
Saint Louis

1962 TR3B TSF202L -- Running now, after 28 years of moldering away and 31
years of ownership!
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ntgCXFK/0/L/i-ntgCXFK-L.jpg

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 10:35:16 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Idle adjustment fix
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Yeah, F1 is now limited by regulation to 18,000 rpm at full throttle, or
the cars would easily be around 22,000 rpm by now.  A 12000 "idle" isn't
impossible at all.
http://www.formula1.com/inside_f1/rules_and_regulations/technical_regulations/8699/fia.html

The *sound* of 24 Formula 1 cars at full throttle on the start of a tight
course like the Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix is beyond imagination.  The
other end of the spectrum from a wet liner TR four.  I can't wait until the
end of May and my annual visit to the Principality!

Don

On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 8:39 AM, <Dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

> Not for an F1 car.
>
> In a message dated 4/25/2012 10:16:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
> mark@bradakis.com writes:
> > Bud Rolofson wrote:
> > >The idle on my 6 has been a bit high (10-12k)
> >
> > Yep, 10 - 12,000 rpm is a bit high for an idle.
> >
> > mjb.
>
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From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
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me too
i-15 to the airport!
Frank


________________________________
From:
"tfansher@comcast.net" <tfansher@comcast.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 6:11 AM
Subject: [TR] Off to the Mitty

On
I-75  just above Gainesville, Florida headed to Road Atlanta. Three TR6's not
far behind.  Looks like beautiful weather. 
Tom
73 Stag this trip 

Sent from
my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

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Funny - I was talking with a friend about this the other day.  He asked me
to check the emblems on my TR2 as he had heard there were some center caps
without the underline under Triumph and thought it was only used on the
early TR2's....  Alas and alack - mine had the underline...

Now I'm interested in hearing what the collective wisdom of the list has to
say!

On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 10:00 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:

> The majority of the enameled globes on the original hubcaps for my TR3B had
> the Triumph script in a diagonal line across the emblem, not the arched
> script most commonly seen in enameled and painted globes.
>
> Here's an image of some of the globes from my car:
> http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sfZDwS2/0/L/i-sfZDwS2-L.jpg
>
> Standard-Triumph were nothing if not resourceful.  This style of globe had
> to be used in a number of applications.  Is it just my limited experience,
> or is this not at all common on sidescreen TRs?  Is it more common on some
> other S-T model?

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From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 12:18:03 -0500
To: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
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This sounds like a Jonmac question.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Apr 26, 2012, at 11:35 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:

> Funny - I was talking with a friend about this the other day.  He asked me
> to check the emblems on my TR2 as he had heard there were some center caps
> without the underline under Triumph and thought it was only used on the
> early TR2's....  Alas and alack - mine had the underline...
>
> Now I'm interested in hearing what the collective wisdom of the list has to
> say!
>
> On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 10:00 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
>> The majority of the enameled globes on the original hubcaps for my TR3B
had
>> the Triumph script in a diagonal line across the emblem, not the arched
>> script most commonly seen in enameled and painted globes.
>>
>> Here's an image of some of the globes from my car:
>> http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sfZDwS2/0/L/i-sfZDwS2-L.jpg
>>
>> Standard-Triumph were nothing if not resourceful.  This style of globe had
>> to be used in a number of applications.  Is it just my limited experience,
>> or is this not at all common on sidescreen TRs?  Is it more common on some
>> other S-T model?
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 17:53:53 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
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I have never purchased anything from this company, but it looks like 
they have the alternator in question in stock.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Quality-Built/Alternator/MPA13107.html?apwcid=froogle&apw13107alqu

Roger Elliott

On 04/25/2012 11:32 PM, Sam Clark wrote:
> <snip>
> Others recommend to use a remanufactured '78 Ford Fiesta Bosch alternator
> w/55A which
> gives almost a bolt-on replacement. And I can use Dan's wiring schematics for
> the electrical hookup. My main problem is locating the Fiesta alternator.
> Does
> anyone have a specific source for this Bosch alternator with fan and pulley?
> I
> spent hours trying to locate one that is remanufactured, carrying some sort
> of
> warranty. But, I have not yet found suppliers, like AutoZone, Summit, NAPA
> nor
> Pep Boys. I don't want to search at junk yards. Does anyone have any
> recommendations?
>
> Thanking in advance,
> Jeff N.
> '72 TR6
>
> I have one under my workbench still in the box I'd sell you.  It wouldn't fit
> my GT6 because of clearance problems with the bonnet strut.  FWIW I got it
> from Rock Auto PN #13107.  I was saving it for my 72 TR6 when the factory
> Delco gives it up.
>
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Subject: [TR] upper steering column support
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Listers,
I seem to have misplaced the upper steering column support for my
tr-3.  I've noticed there were several changes to the support and I'm finding
none available at least from TRF.  Couldn't find any on the diagrams in Moss
either.  I'm wondering if anyone has one for sale.  If not it should be fairly
simple to fabricate something.

thanks

gary n.

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 "Bud Rolofson wrote:
 The idle on my 6 has been a bit high (10-12k)" 
 
" Yep, 10 - 12,000 rpm is a bit high for an idle.
 
 mjb."

Must have a really big cam.

Greg Lemon

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Subject: Re: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
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> Funny - I was talking with a friend about this the other  day.  He asked 
me
> to check the emblems on my TR2 as he had heard  there were some center 
caps
> without the underline under Triumph and  thought it was only used on the
> early TR2's....  Alas and alack -  mine had the underline...
 
Chris & Bill: 
All four of the nave plates on ole TS981 have the underline under Triumph  
and I was assured that these "World" badges were original.  According to  
Piggott there were two types of these badges, the early version was of the  
vitreous enamelled type but at TS13046 the more common painted type took over  
but in both cases the underline was there.  Coincidently TS13046 was also  
when the braking type was changed from Lockheed to Girling and their discs 
in  front.  
 
I have absolutely no clue what "vitreous enamelled" is but those are  
Piggott's words.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana 

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Subject: Re: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
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> I have absolutely no clue what "vitreous enamelled" is but those are  
> Piggott's words.

More commonly known as cloisonne (with an accent above the 'e'), I believe.
Vitreous refers to the fact it is cured by 'firing' (heating to high
temperature), and enamel is, of course, the pigment.  A pretty effect, but
unfortunately rather fragile to be on a hub cap.

-- Randall  

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 00:14:03 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
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TSF202L, built April 12, 2012, had three hubcaps with the straight
diagonal, non-underlined emblems when I got it in 1981, and one with the
arched, underlined Triumph script.  It had been in a front end accident at
some point, so I can't say it came with the one oddball emblem.

The emblems are different in almost every respect.  The land masses are
much smaller on the straight Triumph emblems and show all of Australia and
British Isles are shown only as a slightly bigger spot on the chrome.  The
blue of the ocean on the straight Triumph emblems is a much lighter color
enamel, and there are nine lines of latitude and nine lines of longitude.
 The underlined, arched emblems have five lines of latitude, seven lines of
longitude, and a outsized enameled representation of the UK.

Don

PS:  Vitreous means glassy, from the Latin *vitrei*, for glass*.*  Similar
etymology to experiments run *in vitro*, meaning in glass vessels.

On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 11:07 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I have absolutely no clue what "vitreous enamelled" is but those are
> > Piggott's words.
>
> More commonly known as cloisonne (with an accent above the 'e'), I believe.
> Vitreous refers to the fact it is cured by 'firing' (heating to high
> temperature), and enamel is, of course, the pigment.  A pretty effect, but
> unfortunately rather fragile to be on a hub cap.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Arrive 12:30am after 13hours in the tr3. Boy, my butt is sore.

Ken Gano

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 26, 2012, at 9:11 AM, "tfansher@comcast.net" <tfansher@comcast.net>
wrote:

> On I-75  just above Gainesville, Florida headed to Road Atlanta. Three TR6's
not far behind.  Looks like beautiful weather.
> Tom
> 73 Stag this trip
>
> Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!
>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
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http://db.tt/Umzz6Mgl

This is a link to a pic of two of my spare hub cap centers just to provide
some additional visual reference.  One is vitreous and the other I believe
is painted. Both have scripts dissimilar to the one don posted.
On Apr 27, 2012 12:24 AM, "Don Hiscock" <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:

> TSF202L, built April 12, 2012, had three hubcaps with the straight
> diagonal, non-underlined emblems when I got it in 1981, and one with the
> arched, underlined Triumph script.  It had been in a front end accident at
> some point, so I can't say it came with the one oddball emblem.
>
> The emblems are different in almost every respect.  The land masses are
> much smaller on the straight Triumph emblems and show all of Australia and
> British Isles are shown only as a slightly bigger spot on the chrome.  The
> blue of the ocean on the straight Triumph emblems is a much lighter color
> enamel, and there are nine lines of latitude and nine lines of longitude.
>  The underlined, arched emblems have five lines of latitude, seven lines of
> longitude, and a outsized enameled representation of the UK.
>
> Don
>
> PS:  Vitreous means glassy, from the Latin *vitrei*, for glass*.*  Similar
> etymology to experiments run *in vitro*, meaning in glass vessels.
>
> On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 11:07 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
> > > I have absolutely no clue what "vitreous enamelled" is but those are
> > > Piggott's words.
> >
> > More commonly known as cloisonne (with an accent above the 'e'), I
> believe.
> > Vitreous refers to the fact it is cured by 'firing' (heating to high
> > temperature), and enamel is, of course, the pigment.  A pretty effect,
> but
> > unfortunately rather fragile to be on a hub cap.
> >
> > -- Randall
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 18:40:34 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
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Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
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Oh, gawd, where did my memory go?
 
Let's put it this way. The factory parts
operation sold Triumph World emblems as accessories, though whether any made
it stateside is anyone's guess. When my GT6 Mk 2 (GT6+) was new, the rattling
Rostyle type wheelcovers drove me mad. No matter whazt you did in wedging bits
of rubber pipe between the cover and wheelrim, they soon fell out and the
rattles returned. Within 3 months of having the car, I bought four Herald hub
caps and four World emblems. The emblem perfectly fitted the centre circle so
I drilled a small hole and bolted them through. No more rattles - and I think
the car looked way better! All that said, the emblems themselves were plated
zinc with the blue and red painted in the right place for land and sea. Also,
the TRIUMPH word was underlined and top end located on the roundel. Best I can
do , Gents.
 
Jonmac


http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk
>________________________________
> From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
>To: Chris
Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> 
>Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net> 
>Sent:
Thursday, 26 April 2012, 18:18
>Subject: Re: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap
globe styles?
>  
>This sounds like a Jonmac question.
>
>Sent from mobile
Bill
>
>On Apr 26, 2012, at 11:35 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Funny - I was talking with a friend about this the other day.  He asked
me
>> to check the emblems on my TR2 as he had heard there were some center
caps
>> without the underline under Triumph and thought it was only used on
the
>> early TR2's....  Alas and alack - mine had the underline...
>>
>> Now
I'm interested in hearing what the collective wisdom of the list has to
>>
say!
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 10:00 AM, Don Hiscock
<don.hiscock@gmail.com>
>wrote:
>>
>>> The majority of the enameled globes on
the original hubcaps for my TR3B
>had
>>> the Triumph script in a diagonal
line across the emblem, not the arched
>>> script most commonly seen in
enameled and painted globes.
>>>
>>> Here's an image of some of the globes
from my car:
>>> http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sfZDwS2/0/L/i-sfZDwS2-L.jpg
>>>
>>> Standard-Triumph were nothing if not resourceful.  This style of globe
had
>>> to be used in a number of applications.  Is it just my limited
experience,
>>> or is this not at all common on sidescreen TRs?  Is it more
common on some
>>> other S-T model?
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 13:59:40 2012
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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 15:55:23 -0400
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Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
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There are a number of vendors on eBay stating they have Bosch Alternators
for TR6.
I have not purchased from any of them.
This is one of them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-TR6-TR8-TR250-SPITFIRE-Alternator-Bosch-75-A
mp-/280838708587?hash=item41634a9d6b&item=280838708587&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_P
arts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Bob
> Does
> anyone have a specific source for this Bosch alternator with fan and
pulley?
> I
> spent hours trying to locate one that is remanufactured, carrying some 
> sort of warranty. But, I have not yet found suppliers, like AutoZone, 
> Summit, NAPA nor Pep Boys. I don't want to search at junk yards. Does 
> anyone have any recommendations?

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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 07:26:32 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
http://db.tt/Umzz6Mgl
This is a link to a pic of two of my spare hub cap
centers just to provide
some additional visual reference.  One is vitreous and
the other I believe
is painted. Both have scripts dissimilar to the one don
posted.
------------------------------------    
Hi List!
I think Chris S. is
off to the mitty, so he will most likely not reply right away. But in his
picture, the one on the left looks like the TR3 enamel & the one on the right
looks like the Lat. & Lon. lines are raised. Which I was told that is the
correct one for the TR4A cars. I was also told that the TR4A emblem was made
out of plastic (Which explains why it is painted & NOT baked enamel.)  
 
Thus, I believe that the plastic is in another category in itself, & this
thread started out as TR2 -> TR3 enamel badges of when the change came about?
Lou M. or anyone else, wish to to give more input or correction?
-Cosmo
Kramer

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Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 18:27:32 -0500
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Subject: [TR] TR3 upper Ball Joint
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I see there is quite a difference in the ball joint price between TRF and
Moss, is there is quality difference?  Or, is there another supplier that
has a superior ball joint unit for my car.  This is one place I don't mind
spending a couple of extra bucks for top quality.
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 20:43:16 2012
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I'm thinking about removing the plug from the TR4 engine block and replaice with a breather pipe.  Question is if I connect a hose from the pipe to a catch tank, will the pipe be as effective? 

Paul 
61 TR4

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 06:47:04 2012
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Subject: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine
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It looks like I need to rebuild my TR3A engine (rod knocking).

It'd be nice to rebuild it right and get rid of at least the majority 
of oil leaking.  Perhaps that's a pipe dream.  Regardless, rebuilding
the engine is a bit beyond my time/abilities, so time to dump some more
money into the Triumph.

Suggestions of shops/places to either get or rebuild a TR3/TR3A engine?

Anyone have any experience with Performance Research Industries?  Looks
like they're on the expensive side, but they make a powerful engine.


Dave

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 07:05:13 2012
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Dave - Where are you located?
Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Ljung Madison
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 8:27 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine

It looks like I need to rebuild my TR3A engine (rod knocking).

It'd be nice to rebuild it right and get rid of at least the majority of oil
leaking.  Perhaps that's a pipe dream.  Regardless, rebuilding the engine is
a bit beyond my time/abilities, so time to dump some more money into the
Triumph.

Suggestions of shops/places to either get or rebuild a TR3/TR3A engine?

Anyone have any experience with Performance Research Industries?  Looks like
they're on the expensive side, but they make a powerful engine.


Dave

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 07:15:51 2012
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> Dave - Where are you located?

Good point: San Francisco

Dave

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Area code 415. My guess is that you are in driving distance of Santa 
Cruz, CA.  I highly recommend Greg Solow's Engine Room in Santa Cruz.  
They have a LOT of experience with the TR four cylinder engine from pure 
stock to full race builds in TRs & Morgans.

They rebuilt my TR3's engine for me years ago, summer before last did a 
rack and pinion conversion for me and just last summer put in a new 
limited slip diff for me.  They know what they are doing.

On 4/28/12 5:26 AM, David Ljung Madison wrote:
> Suggestions of shops/places to either get or rebuild a TR3/TR3A engine?
>
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> Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
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The pipe would be effective as long as there is free air flow at the end.
Ques: Why not just go with the TR3 pipe set up?
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
pbrandsema@triad.rr.com
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 9:44 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank

I'm thinking about removing the plug from the TR4 engine block and replaice
with a breather pipe.  Question is if I connect a hose from the pipe to a
catch tank, will the pipe be as effective? 

Paul
61 TR4

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 13:22:37 2012
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While working on one problem I accidently caused another, as anyone who
tried to get to the forums, the mailman admin page, the donate link or
whatever during the last 12 hours or so would know.

The server is now responding, though the problems I was working on
are still unresolved.

I'd rather be at The Mitty!

mjb.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 14:13:37 2012
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From: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
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Thread-Topic: TR Overdrive in reverse.
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Subject: [TR] TR Overdrive in reverse.
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I believe that one of my electic OD switches failed "not safe", and I backed
my car out of the garage in reverse with the OD engaged.  It is my
understanding from the guys on the healey web that this is "very bad".

I am now suffering some "binding/lurching" when in first or reverse, and have
been pushing the car around in fear of doing any damage.

It would appear that the unit is coming out again, but exactly what does
driving an OD in reverse do that is so bad?


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 17:20:16 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine
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TeriAnn writes:
> I highly recommend Greg Solow's Engine Room in Santa Cruz.
> 
> They rebuilt my TR3's engine for me years ago,..

I read about that on your "restoration horror story" :)
I'll have to give them a call, didn't realize that all happened
near the Bay Area.

> ..did a rack and pinion conversion for me

Interesting - that's high on my list as well, I was thinking about doing 
it myself, but time is in limited supply right now.  How long did the
rebuild take and how long did the R&P take?


Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
------------ Okay Scotty, very funny..  Now beam down my clothes ----------

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 17:49:39 2012
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Subject: [TR] slipping out of third
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I have a 71 TR6 non-overdrive transmission. When I am in third, decelerating
down hill, on occasion, it will slip out of gear. Not pop out, but
occasionally slide out - it feels like I just stepped on the clutch.  No other
problems with transmission.  Goes through all gears fine - up and down.  No
noise, no grinding.  Only the occasional slide out of third.
Diagnosis?

Peter Arakelian

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Subject: Re: [TR] slipping out of third
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Sounds like your detent springs are done.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Arakelian
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 4:46 PM
To: Listers
Subject: [TR] slipping out of third

I have a 71 TR6 non-overdrive transmission. When I am in third, decelerating
down hill, on occasion, it will slip out of gear. Not pop out, but
occasionally slide out - it feels like I just stepped on the clutch.  No other
problems with transmission.  Goes through all gears fine - up and down.  No
noise, no grinding.  Only the occasional slide out of third.
Diagnosis?

Peter Arakelian

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 19:14:29 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR Overdrive in reverse.
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> It would appear that the unit is coming out again, but 
> exactly what does
> driving an OD in reverse do that is so bad?

There is a one-way roller clutch (aka sprag clutch) in the tail housing that
prevents the output shaft from turning any slower than the input (to the
overdrive).  However, when you try to back up with the OD engaged, the OD
clutch and gears force the sprag clutch to turn backwards.  

I've only seen photos of the resulting damage, but it looked pretty bad.
The outer race of the sprag clutch had broken, taking the tail housing with
it.

However, unless it felt like you were backing over a curb, or you felt a big
lurch, most likely the OD didn't have enough pressure built to force the
clutch backwards.

Before you pull the gearbox & OD, I'd check that there isn't something else
going on.

-- Randall  

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From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
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Subject: [TR] TR Sighting - Tehachapi Willow Springs
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     So today after doing maintenance along the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) with 
the Boy Scouts I was driving down Tehachapi Willow Springs road and encountered 
the glorious sight of about 9 TR's all driving in a row. They were in numeric 
order with the 3's in front and the 6's in back. You guys looked great and I 
wanted to join you but was wearing a Boy Scout assistant scoutmaster uniform and 
was driving a Honda...
     Were any of the drivers listers? Who were you guys? Where had you guys 
been? Tehachapi for lunch (a good spot) maybe? Buttonwillow isn't until next 
week, so it wasn't that.
     I wish that I had taken a photo you guys looked so good.
     If anyone reading this was there, let me know who you were. I might even 
have to join your club. My club is dominated by retirees driving new Jaguars.

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 19:47:23 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR Sighting - Tehachapi Willow Springs
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Hi Bill,

What I imagine you saw was the "Poppy Run" involving members from two
Triumph Clubs: Triumph Register of Southern California (TRSC), and Southern
California Triumph Owners Association (SCTOA).  I wasn't able to make it
today, but those that went left from Valencia, traveled to Tehachapi via
back roads for lunch, and back.  The mission was to see the poppies, but I
understand that due the lack of timely rainfall this year poppies are in
short supply.  
You can see a few pictures of the run on Facebook; just search "TRSC" (no
quotes).
Below are links to each club's website.  Either club would be happy if you
joined, I'm sure.  Both are great clubs. 

http://www.trsc1977.com/

http://web.mac.com/sctoa/SCTOA/Welcome.html

Regards, Dennis




> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
> Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 6:21 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] TR Sighting - Tehachapi Willow Springs
> 
>      So today after doing maintenance along the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail)
with
> the Boy Scouts I was driving down Tehachapi Willow Springs road and
> encountered
> the glorious sight of about 9 TR's all driving in a row. They were in
numeric
> order with the 3's in front and the 6's in back. You guys looked great and
I
> wanted to join you but was wearing a Boy Scout assistant scoutmaster
> uniform and
> was driving a Honda...
>      Were any of the drivers listers? Who were you guys? Where had you
guys
> been? Tehachapi for lunch (a good spot) maybe? Buttonwillow isn't until
next
> week, so it wasn't that.
>      I wish that I had taken a photo you guys looked so good.
>      If anyone reading this was there, let me know who you were. I might
even
> have to join your club. My club is dominated by retirees driving new
Jaguars.
> 
>      Bill Brewer
>      Tehachapi, CA
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 20:12:29 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR Sighting - Tehachapi Willow Springs
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Hi Bill,

You missed the rest of the group: 8 more TRs and a Jensen Healey.

I was kind of surprised you didn't join us for the run, guess you were busy
with the Scouts.  We started near the Valencia country club and took back
roads all the way to the Apple Shed for lunch.  Not as many poppies as I had
hoped, but it was still a very nice run.  Lots of sunshine and pretty
country (although it did get chilly enough for a jacket coming through the
pass).

After lunch we broke up; I drove on up to look at the Tehachapi loop, then
took the freeways back down to Angeles Crest highway and drove over those
mountains as well.

Unfortunately my OD crapped out; I'm guessing it has a broken wire inside
the solenoid since it first started buzzing, then worked for a bit, then
stopped altogether.

Anyone have any suggestions for how to change an A-type solenoid without
removing the trans tunnel?

-- Randall  

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 22:39:35 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine
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On 4/28/12 4:13 PM, David Ljung Madison wrote:
>
> TeriAnn writes:
>> I highly recommend Greg Solow's Engine Room in Santa Cruz.
>>
>> They rebuilt my TR3's engine for me years ago,..
> I read about that on your "restoration horror story" :)
> I'll have to give them a call, didn't realize that all happened
> near the Bay Area.
I was living in Aptos on the Monterey bay area.  The body shop that did 
such a lousy job is in Santa Clara near the airport. The drive train 
work was farmed out to The Engine Room in Santa Cruz.  I was not about 
to rebuild an engine outside in the dirt.

I have since moved to Flagstaff, home of the 2012 Triumphest next 
September.  I have no excuse to miss this one.
>
>> ..did a rack and pinion conversion for me
> Interesting - that's high on my list as well, I was thinking about doing
> it myself, but time is in limited supply right now.  How long did the
> rebuild take and how long did the R&P take?

Check with the Engine Room to get an idea of how long the engine rebuild 
will take.  A lot depends upon what you have done. For instance it took 
a while to have my crank nitrided and the engine has a lot of 
interesting things in it and done to it.  I'm sure a straight stock 
rebuild would go a lot quicker.

Also the R&P was their first conversion.  If you use the Moss conversion 
like I did it would likely go quicker the second time around.  But I had 
other work done at the same time so it took longer.  new valves, new cam 
& lifters because the new oil formulation didn't protect it (I now focus 
on high ZDDP oils), new timing chain, gears and front housing as well.

If you leave the car with them they could do the rack & pinion 
conversion the same time they do the engine & not take any extra time.

Take care,

TeriAnn

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From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
To: "pbrandsema@triad.rr.com" <pbrandsema@triad.rr.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
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Paul wrote:
Subject: TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
Date: Fri, 27 Apr
2012 
From: <pbrandsema@triad.rr.com>

I'm thinking about removing the plug
from the TR4 engine block and replace with a breather pipe.  Question is if I
connect a hose from the pipe to a catch tank, will the pipe be as effective?
-Paul 
------------------------- +++++++++++ -------------
Hi Paul!
You are
really talking about changing the breathing system. So to answer this question
more in detail, I would need to know more on how your breathing system is set
up now. The TR4 made changes to this system two or three different times in
that model.
 
Well, as I remember the TR4 stock engine set up, the air enters
in through the Oil Filler Cap & possibly out of the Valve Cover (VC). Now
depending on the year of the car, when it was made (check the Vin #), to what
changes TRIUMPH made on the breathing system. 
1- I have seen VC's plugged &
the TR3 breathing pipe. But I doubt that's what you have in your set up
because you have mentioned about removing the plug to install a breathing tube
to go into an ?Oil Tank? (I would like more info. on where you were putting
this tank, how, & what ways you were planning on doing this.)
2- A tube out of
the VC & into the center of each air filter.
3- A tube out of the VC & into
the 'Gulp Valve' & then into the Intake Manifold (like that of the TR4A's
system).
 
As it was stated by Bill in his reply, you should have some venting
system coming out of the tank so the 'Blow-by Gasses' (BBG) have a way to
escape to reduce back pressure.
 
In one of Kas's books, Joe A. tried having
the 'BBG' go into the Exhaust System Which I tried, but had problems with the
tube melting because of the heat. I'm still working on this project (to work
out the details future).
 
What exactly is your purpose of installing this
tank?
Please reply or phone me (716-438-3769) after 19:00 & I'd be more that
willing to talk to you on what I've done so far & how that I may be of
service. I really don't want to type all the details because of using up the
lists limited space with pictures & not having this E-mail go through.
-Cosmo
Kramer

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 06:07:58 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] slipping out of third
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Peter,

I have roughly 2500 miles on a freshly rebuilt gearbox and have the same
issue.
If I am in third, and keep my foot off the pedal, allowing the car to
decelerate, in often comes out of gear.
You are not alone, and I don't think this is rare, or really a problem.

I will follow this thread with great interest.


On Apr 28, 2012, at 6:46 PM, Peter Arakelian wrote:

> I have a 71 TR6 non-overdrive transmission. When I am in third,
decelerating
> down hill, on occasion, it will slip out of gear. Not pop out, but
> occasionally slide out - it feels like I just stepped on the clutch.  No
other
> problems with transmission.  Goes through all gears fine - up and down.  No
> noise, no grinding.  Only the occasional slide out of third.
> Diagnosis?
>
> Peter Arakelian
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 07:40:33 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] slipping out of third
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I don't think you can say "or really a problem". These cars have their
quirks, but slipping out of gear is not one of them.  

I had my TR250 gearbox rebuilt by Racetorations in the UK and when 
I drove the car for the first time last month, it slipped out of gear.
Racetorations is flying one of their guys out to Michigan to pull the
gearbox and fix the problem.

Andrew Uprichard


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 8:08 AM
To: Peter Arakelian
Cc: Listers
Subject: Re: [TR] slipping out of third

Peter,

I have roughly 2500 miles on a freshly rebuilt gearbox and have the same
issue.
If I am in third, and keep my foot off the pedal, allowing the car to
decelerate, in often comes out of gear.
You are not alone, and I don't think this is rare, or really a problem.

I will follow this thread with great interest.


On Apr 28, 2012, at 6:46 PM, Peter Arakelian wrote:

> I have a 71 TR6 non-overdrive transmission. When I am in third,
decelerating
> down hill, on occasion, it will slip out of gear. Not pop out, but
> occasionally slide out - it feels like I just stepped on the clutch.  No
other
> problems with transmission.  Goes through all gears fine - up and down.
No
> noise, no grinding.  Only the occasional slide out of third.
> Diagnosis?
>
> Peter Arakelian
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Subject: Re: [TR] slipping out of third
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> If I am in third, and keep my foot off the pedal, allowing the car to
> decelerate, in often comes out of gear.

It's been a few years back, but a friend of mine had the same problem.
After returning the box to the rebuilder twice, she took it to Herman van
den Akker, who after much investigation discovered that the dog teeth didn't
match the sleeves.  Installing parts that match solved the problem.

http://trf.zeni.net/TR6bluebook/index.php?page=85

Might not be your problem (Guy or Peter), but I would definitely check
(right after checking the detent force).

Unfortunately, the only way I know to check is to tear the gearbox down
again.  Even with the gears in your hands, you have to look close to see the
differences.

Randall

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Subject: [TR] Subject:  slipping out of third
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I have had similar problems with a few Tr4 transmissions in the past.  It is often an indication that the shifter detent springs are too soft.  

You can add shims (I used small washers) to bring the pressure back up.  I use a fish scale on the shift rods to check the tension.  It can be done with the trans in the car but you will need to remove the trans tunnel.  

There is a factory service notice about this for Tr4 as they changed the detent pin type to increase the resistence.  A Tr6 should have been built with the upgraded parts unless someone in the murky past has changed to a TR4 shifter or trans in your car.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 09:46:08 2012
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Subject: [TR] Bonderize?
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Camshaft came back from the machine shop.  But the lobes weren't polished.  They have this black stuff all over them and it looks fairly gritty.  The book I'm using says "if the camshaft has been reground, degrease thoroughly, bonderize, and soak in graphite."

What the heck is bonderize?  And shouldn't the machine shop have polizhed the lobes?  ...Or is it polished, but just being protected by something I have to take off somehow?

No telling, not knowing!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

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Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Balancing
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I am removing my eight blade fan and returning to the original four blade
metal one. The metal one had been sitting in the bin for 10 years, so I
bought the fan mounting kit and discovered the balancing piece. How is it
used? How do I know if I need it? 

 

I couldn't find anything in the two manuals I have, except to have them say
to replace it the way it came off (that's real helpful).

 

Johnnie

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Subject: [TR] TR3A Front Cam Bearing
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About this front bearing for the cam, I normally replace all bearings in a rebuild, but this doesn't actually look like a bearing at all.  No babbit, for one, or at least what I grew up calling the material that faces the moving part.  

...Or do the other three bearings in the block control the spin, and the front bearing just the back and forth drift?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

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The front cam bearing takes more side force than the other 3, as it also
takes the force from the chain turning the cam.  Check it for wear.  If not
too badly worn, you can reuse it.  But it's replaceable because it does
wear. 

-- Randall  

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 10:03:15 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fan Balancing
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> I am removing my eight blade fan and returning to the 
> original four blade
> metal one. The metal one had been sitting in the bin for 10 
> years, so I
> bought the fan mounting kit and discovered the balancing 
> piece. How is it
> used? How do I know if I need it? 

You'll need a balancing jig, to balance the fan/hub/pulley assembly.  HF
sells one for balancing motorcycle tires (but the one I got had a stiff
bearing that had to be replaced).

Instructions are in the TR3 workshop manual, page C9.
http://tinyurl.com/83x4e45

After all that, mine seemed to be adequately balanced without any weights.
But it still didn't cool enough in prolonged stop-and-go traffic, so I
eventually installed an electric fan instead.

-- Randall  

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 10:04:56 2012
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> Camshaft came back from the machine shop.  But the lobes 
> weren't polished.  They have this black stuff all over them 
> and it looks fairly gritty.

I'd ask the machine shop what it is.  Chances are that it's graphite or
similar; but why take a chance?

-- Randall  

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 11:05:41 2012
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
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Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test
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I need to test the heater core before I install it.   Any do's don'ts?   Is
there any issue with hooking up a hose to both sides and let water flow
through?  I would think that it shouldn't be 'closed' at the other end
because I believe the pressure would be too high.

Thanks
Carl


1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year..

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 11:21:38 2012
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You can also try Dave at British Motorsports in Campbell
http://www.britishmotorsportsinc.com/ or Vern at Vern's Autoclinic in
Fremont 
http://www.vernsautoclinic.com/ Vern doesn't specialize in British cars, but
has a lot of experience.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 6:38 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine

Area code 415. My guess is that you are in driving distance of Santa Cruz,
CA.  I highly recommend Greg Solow's Engine Room in Santa Cruz.  
They have a LOT of experience with the TR four cylinder engine from pure
stock to full race builds in TRs & Morgans.

They rebuilt my TR3's engine for me years ago, summer before last did a rack
and pinion conversion for me and just last summer put in a new limited slip
diff for me.  They know what they are doing.

On 4/28/12 5:26 AM, David Ljung Madison wrote:
> Suggestions of shops/places to either get or rebuild a TR3/TR3A engine?
>
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/
415.341.5555
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---- 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test
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Yes, pressure from your garden hose would be too much, probably around
40-50psi.  Just running water through it would not hurt it, but may not find
a small leak either.  

You could fill it an let it stand overnight and see if there is any seepage,
or take it to a local radiator shop and let them test it at a low pressure,
remember you cap is only a 4psi rating.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 11:56 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test

I need to test the heater core before I install it.   Any do's don'ts?   Is
there any issue with hooking up a hose to both sides and let water flow
through?  I would think that it shouldn't be 'closed' at the other end
because I believe the pressure would be too high.

Thanks
Carl


1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year..

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 13:30:46 2012
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test
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Thanks Bill - you confirmed my concerns.... Will find a rad shop tomorrow.
C

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year..



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech@flash.net
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 3:26 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test

Yes, pressure from your garden hose would be too much, probably around
40-50psi.  Just running water through it would not hurt it, but may not find
a small leak either.  

You could fill it an let it stand overnight and see if there is any seepage,
or take it to a local radiator shop and let them test it at a low pressure,
remember you cap is only a 4psi rating.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 11:56 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test

I need to test the heater core before I install it.   Any do's don'ts?   Is
there any issue with hooking up a hose to both sides and let water flow
through?  I would think that it shouldn't be 'closed' at the other end
because I believe the pressure would be too high.

Thanks
Carl


1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year..

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 14:14:43 2012
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Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 15:13:08 -0500
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
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Subject: [TR] Spitfire Turn Signals
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Hi,

I am hoping someone can help me with a puzzle I am having about the turn 
signals not working.   I struggle to diagnose electrical problems.

The turn signals on both sides of my 80 Spitfire stopped working.  The 
hazard flashers also stopped working.   All of my fuses are okay and 
things on the same fuse as the turn signals work.

Knowing that the turnsignal and hazard flashers both run through the 
hazard switch,  I pulled the hazard switch several times  and got it so 
that the hazard flasher would work part of the time - the turn signals 
still never worked.

I got the hazard switch and cleaned each contact.  Now the hazard 
flashers work reliably.  Turn signals still don't.

There appear to be two power wires going to the hazard switch.  Purple 
had power all of the time and green when ignition is on.  If I jump 
between the purple and green, the turn signals work. With the jumper 
removed they still don't work.

It looks like the powered green wire comes from the voltage stabilizer.  
There is continuity between the voltage stabilizer and the green wire in 
the hazard switch.

So, I am at a loss.

The turn signals works when the purple and green wire are jumped.  So, I 
have ruled out the switch and the relay.

The fuse is fine.

The lights all light up appropriately when using either the hazard 
flasher or jumped turn signals. So lights and grounds seem to be okay.

There is continuity between the voltage regulator and the green wire at 
the hazard switch.   Though when I check for voltage at the green wire, 
there isn't any.   I expected voltage, but not sure how there can't be 
since there is continuity with the voltage stabilizer and there is power 
to the stabilizer.


Any suggestions on what the problem is?   (besides my lack of electronic 
knowledge :))

Thanks,
Roger Elliott
1980 Spitfire

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From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [TR] overdrive in reverse
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If it's some consolation I also was in a position with my tr-6.  I'd loaned it
out to a high school kid for prom.  (I KNEW I should have unplugged the wiring
for the overdrive)  Any way he parked it in front of my garage and left.  I
got in and found it was still in overdrive.  I COULD NOT get it out of gear or
overdrive.  Pushed the clutch in and no difference.  nothing worked.  I
finally gritted my teeth and backed up about 5-6 feet just enough to get
turned and going forward.  The backing up was excruciating because it did buck
and bind something awful.
I got turned around and drove forward and clicked it
out of overdrive and unplugged it and never used it for a year.  I never even
tested it!  Then a year later I plugged it in............tested it and it
worked!  Have been using it ever since.  very very grateful for actually
having dodged a bullet, which doesn't happen often!

sooo you might not be as
bad off as you think.

gary n.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 29 15:50:13 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire Turn Signals
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On 4/29/2012 4:13 PM, Roger Elliott wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am hoping someone can help me with a puzzle I am having about the 
> turn signals not working.   I struggle to diagnose electrical problems.

All right, let's go!

Have you studied this?  
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/wiring/78diagram.jpg

The purple wire is hot all the time.  This provides current to operate 
the flashers independent of the ignition switch.  (So they'll work while 
you walk to the gas station).

The green wire is hot with the ignition on - and all the current goes 
through the ignition switch.  The voltage stabiliser is merely a stop on 
the way - the current for the turn signal does not pass through it.

I've never taken one apart, but I /assume/ that the emergency flasher 
switch connects the two sides together, and energises the flasher (via 
the purple wire) so they blink.  When not flashing, it allows the 
current from the green wire to pass through to the flasher, then on to 
the turn signal switch and the lamps.


If I understand you correctly, you have power att eh green wire when the 
ignition is on.  You should also then have power on the light green/gray 
wire going to the flasher.  If not, the problem is probably internal to 
your flasher switch.  You can get some contact cleaner and spray it 
inside while operating the switch repeatedly - you may have to remove it 
to do this.


Most of the problems I've seen with these switches (and dimmer 
rheostats) is due to the fact that they are almost never used, and 
develop a good coating of schmutz, which prevents them form making good 
contact.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
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Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire Turn Signals
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The power for the turn signals also powers other items as you noted.  
Including the gauges which are powered by the voltage stabilizer.  Triumph liked 
to daisy chain loads on a common circuit so the power would be fed to one 
device and then on to another and another, etc.  Just what the sequence is 
something to be determined through examination, but the things on that fused 
circuit include the heater, wipers, reverse lights, brake lights and gauges.  
If all these things work then the next place to look is the flasher.

There are two flashers on your car (all cars with the emergency flashers)  
The turn signals and the emergency flashers each use its own flasher so the 
fact that the EME flashers work doesn't absolve the turn signal flasher.

I don't know where that flasher is on a Spitfire but look for a flasher 
with a green wire (as opposed to the purple wire).

Good luck.

Dave

In a message dated 4/29/2012 3:14:58 PM Central Daylight Time, 
elliottr@rmi.net writes: 
> I am hoping someone can help me with a puzzle I am having about the turn 
> signals not working.   I struggle to diagnose electrical problems.
> 
> The turn signals on both sides of my 80 Spitfire stopped working.  The 
> hazard flashers also stopped working.   All of my fuses are okay and 
> things on the same fuse as the turn signals work.
> 
> Knowing that the turnsignal and hazard flashers both run through the 
> hazard switch,  I pulled the hazard switch several times  and got it so 
> that the hazard flasher would work part of the time - the turn signals 
> still never worked.
> 
> I got the hazard switch and cleaned each contact.  Now the hazard 
> flashers work reliably.  Turn signals still don't.
> 
> There appear to be two power wires going to the hazard switch.  Purple 
> had power all of the time and green when ignition is on.  If I jump 
> between the purple and green, the turn signals work. With the jumper 
> removed they still don't work.
> 
> It looks like the powered green wire comes from the voltage stabilizer.  
> There is continuity between the voltage stabilizer and the green wire in 
> the hazard switch.
> 
> So, I am at a loss.
> 
> The turn signals works when the purple and green wire are jumped.  So, I 
> have ruled out the switch and the relay.
> 
> The fuse is fine.
> 
> The lights all light up appropriately when using either the hazard 
> flasher or jumped turn signals. So lights and grounds seem to be okay.
> 
> There is continuity between the voltage regulator and the green wire at 
> the hazard switch.   Though when I check for voltage at the green wire, 
> there isn't any.   I expected voltage, but not sure how there can't be 
> since there is continuity with the voltage stabilizer and there is power 
> to the stabilizer.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on what the problem is?   (besides my lack of electronic 
> knowledge :))

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Subject: Re: [TR] Bonderize?
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 To "Bonderize" is simply to coat something in (usually) a phosphate solution
for rust protection. Maybe that coating is why the cam lobes don't look to be
polished?



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: terryrs <terryrs@comcast.net>

What the heck is bonderize?

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Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire Turn Signals
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> There is continuity between the voltage regulator and the 
> green wire at 
> the hazard switch.   Though when I check for voltage at the 
> green wire, 
> there isn't any. 

Checking for continuity is always a tricky business, especially with other
things connected to the circuit.  The "continuity" you see may be through
those devices and ground; or may be too high resistance to operate the load.
(For example, many continuity testers will show 10 ohms or so as a
connection; but 10 ohms is much too high to power turn signals.)

If there is no voltage on the green wire with the ignition on, then the
problem is somewhere between where you are checking and the battery.  Since
presumably the gauges powered by the voltage stabilizer do work, the problem
must be between that point and the stabilizer.  Could be a broken wire, but
my money is on the tab on the VS being broken, corroded, or simply not
connected properly.  (It is sometimes easy to slide the blade between the
terminal and the plastic covering, which can sometimes make a connection
that will show continuity but not pass enough power to actually run
anything.)

-- Randall  

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From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
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I installed the TR3 style breather pipe in the crankcase of my 65 TR4 and I
like to think the reduced pressure lessened the leakage through the rear
oil seal. However I don't much like adding those noxious fumes to my
already nasty exhaust and eventually would like to run the pipe to a catch
filer of some kind.
JohnH

On Sat, Apr 28, 2

On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 9:21 AM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> The pipe would be effective as long as there is free air flow at the end.
> Ques: Why not just go with the TR3 pipe set up?
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> pbrandsema@triad.rr.com
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 9:44 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
>
> I'm thinking about removing the plug from the TR4 engine block and replaice
> with a breather pipe.  Question is if I connect a hose from the pipe to a
> catch tank, will the pipe be as effective?
>
> Paul
> 61 TR4
>
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Greetings.  I hope someone out there can help.  My '72 GT6 ZS 150 carbs won't
achieve full throttle.  When you push on the pedal the butterflies open just
past half way.  I can't figure out how to adjust the linkage to get them to
open more.  These throttles are operated by a center cable pull arrangement.
I have adjusted the cable to take out all of the play but they still won't
open fully.  I have looked at the accelerator pedal and don't see a way to
adjust it.  The manual is useless in this regard.  Any help would be
appreciated.
BTW, the South Central VTR Regional was this past weekend and we had a great
event.  Sorry if you couldn't make it.
TIA

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Subject: Re: [TR] Bonderize?
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Without actually viewing it, I believe the finish your seeing is referred
to as Parkerized
Every camshaft that I have ever had new or reground has had this done to
it.  It looks and feels like very fine (1000 grit) sandpaper
You do not remove it, just clean and install with camshaft lube -

(Excerpt taken from the Wikipedia site)
Parkerizing, bonderizing, phosphating, or phosphatizing is a method of
protecting a steel surface from corrosion and increasing its resistance to
wear through the application of an electrochemical phosphate conversion
coating. Parkerizing is usually considered to be an improved zinc or
manganese phosphating process, and not to be an improved iron phosphating
process, although some use the term parkerizing as a generic term for
applying phosphating (or phosphatizing) coatings that does include the iron
phosphating process.

Original Message:
-----------------

Camshaft came back from the machine shop.  But the lobes weren't polished.
They have this black stuff all over them and it looks fairly gritty.  The
book I'm using says "if the camshaft has been reground, degrease
thoroughly, bonderize, and soak in graphite."

What the heck is bonderize?  And shouldn't the machine shop have polizhed
the lobes?  ...Or is it polished, but just being protected by something I
have to take off somehow?


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Sam,

 

Is there a control lever (carb linkage is connected to this) on the petal
shaft as it is on the TR6?  If it is the same arrangement, that would keep
the butterflies from opening all the way.

 

Art Graves

1976 Triumph TR6

Tulsa, OK

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You could connect the garden hose with a pressure gauge on it and 
restrict the outlet with say another valve or pinching the hose off so 
that you do not flow many gallons of water. By slowly opening the  inlet 
on the  garden hose, you can adjust the pressure to whatever the 
radiator cap is operating at plus a little bit more. This should give 
you an idea if any water starts to show up on the core that you have a 
problem.
If you have an air compressor and an air regulator, cap off one end  and 
charge it up with air while submersing the core and you will see bubbles 
in the water if it is leaking.

Larry T

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Working at a repair shop again, one with a decided interest in British cars.
I'm trying to keep track of the commission numbers of all the cars I work on
at Bailey's [ http://baileysautomotive.com ]  For example, the Austin Healey
3000 I worked on is HBJ829679.  I haven't written down the number for the
MG Midget 1500 I started pulling the motor out of today.  Most likely I
won't remember many by heart, there will be a database on one of my
computers involved, no doubt.

But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor problem with the
brake light.  That number I can probably remember:

http://bradakis.com/Images/tr.jpg


mjb.

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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net, pbrandsema@triad.rr.com
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
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If you run it to a catch tank, the catch tank needs to be vented to 
allow the gases to escape still.  Seems obvious, but...  Also, if you 
do any spirited driving you don't want the catch tank on the same 
side of the engine as the breather - when you go quickly around right 
hand turns, oil can run out the pipe into the catch tank.  I suppose 
if you put enough bends in the pipe that wouldn't occur.  We seem to 
put the catch tank where the battery normally goes, but that assumes 
you've relocated the battery to the passenger floorboard or 
trunk.  You want the hose going into the top of the catch tank.

Here's a couple of examples:
uncle jack's super clean installation:
http://www.tonydrews.com/catch_tank_002.jpg
My much grungier installation:
http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2009_0329EngineInstallation0025.JPG
http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2009_0329EngineInstallation0001.JPG

Tony

At 10:00 PM 4/29/2012, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>I installed the TR3 style breather pipe in the crankcase of my 65 TR4 and I
>like to think the reduced pressure lessened the leakage through the rear
>oil seal. However I don't much like adding those noxious fumes to my
>already nasty exhaust and eventually would like to run the pipe to a catch
>filer of some kind.
>JohnH
>
>On Sat, Apr 28, 2
>
>On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 9:21 AM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:
>
> > The pipe would be effective as long as there is free air flow at the end.
> > Ques: Why not just go with the TR3 pipe set up?
> > Bill
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> > pbrandsema@triad.rr.com
> > Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 9:44 PM
> > To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
> >
> > I'm thinking about removing the plug from the TR4 engine block and replaice
> > with a breather pipe.  Question is if I connect a hose from the pipe to a
> > catch tank, will the pipe be as effective?
> >
> > Paul
> > 61 TR4
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
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To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>, "'Triumphs'"
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Subject: Re: [TR] Commission numbers
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Mark,
Connection is not working, I am betting it was TS-1.  Is it perfect as the
pictures make it out to be?
Very cool indeed,
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 9:31 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers

Working at a repair shop again, one with a decided interest in British cars.
I'm trying to keep track of the commission numbers of all the cars I work on
at Bailey's [ http://baileysautomotive.com ]  For example, the Austin Healey
3000 I worked on is HBJ829679.  I haven't written down the number for the MG
Midget 1500 I started pulling the motor out of today.  Most likely I won't
remember many by heart, there will be a database on one of my computers
involved, no doubt.

But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor problem with the
brake light.  That number I can probably remember:

http://bradakis.com/Images/tr.jpg


mjb.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 30 23:19:41 2012
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> But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor 
> problem with the
> brake light.  That number I can probably remember:
> 
> http://bradakis.com/Images/tr.jpg

Gee, that's a pretty car!

Tnx for the pix, MJB.

-- Randall  

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